hardware-archived

[fringe moon]

[tall knot]

anyone ?

[empty mason]

I am looking to buy a NUC to run hass os on. What gen do you use if have NUC and what gen would you recommend?

[fringe moon]

Any i3 / i5 from 4xxx and upwards will be good

[civic kraken]

the later pentium models are relatively fast too

[fringe moon]

Yas

J4xxx is great

[civic kraken]

Unless you have one on your laptop like I do 😭

[fringe moon]

Lulz

[pallid brook]

Are there any good local zigbee or Wi-Fi outlets that I can use for my tablet mount?

[bright jacinth]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

Command '~what' was invoked by: Tinkerer

[drifting grove]

Hi. I am looking for an outdoor wall-mountable motion detector to be placed on a 230V AC cable that is able to switch a lamp mounted above it and is also able to work as a HA sensor to switch further things (my driveway lights). I'm in germany. I should mention i already posted this in the HA forum to no success. Any ideas for this?

[plush magnet]

https://www.belkin.com/us/p/p-wdc010/

Anyone seen this? Love my dozen wemo switches. Wonder if this has local API?

[proven girder]

If you got a wifi or zigbee sensor and a smart bulb in the lamp then it can be smart controllable through HA itself and not having to use mains voltage

Battery ones last a while

[ruby bone]

I bought the Nortek Zigbee/Zwave compatible USB for my RP4 . Do I need either of those to run my Amazon devices, lg washer dryer, iRobot, Samsung TV, ADT system, car?

Or could I get away with using just home assistant with Lovelace? I’m so new

[worn meadow]

I am trying to find an in wall outlet with energy monitoring. US, wifi/zigbee preferred. I found this one but can't find any details if it will integrate with home assistant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWGHFX4/ any advise?

[quick wigeon]

Those devices sound like they are probably wifi. Zigbee/zwave is a different radio technology.

[final stag]

I've decided it's time to take HA to the next level. For about 4 years I've been running on a Pi 3 and integrating with a hue hub for lights and smartthinga for sensors. I want to get rid of the ST and Hue hubs. What's the current best hardware to go for? Both to run HA and for a ZigBee radio?

[hollow lance]

Pi 4 🙃

[bright jacinth]

Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.

Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.

Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.

Command '.pickyourstick' was invoked by: Tinkerer

[winged knoll]

In general for Zigbee see the #zigbee-archived channel and the pinned messages there

Instead of a Pi buy just about any 64 bit capable system from the last decade. Bonus points for an old laptop since it comes with an UPS built in

[final stag]

I'll have to see what sticks I can get in the UK and then pick.

I do have an old Celeron 64bit HP Gen8 microserver in the loft...

[fringe moon]

That will be great

[harsh forge]

I am planning to add more smart plugs in my home . I already have tuya /smart life based Wi-Fi smart plugs but I want to move away as they integrate via cloud polling . I am in for zigbee compatible smart plug. Only condition is it should be from reputable company and work in India 220 V sockets

And yes it should have energy monitoring

[winged knoll]

Electrolama sells a CC2652 based stick

[timber gulch]

Ugh I need help I just got a pi and put home assistant on to the micro Ed card and now when I turn on my pi it says home assistant at the top but it has a command line and I’m stuck

[winged knoll]

Sounds like you wanted the #330990055533576204 channel for help with your installation method

[final stag]

Only thing is, it's a bit of a bugger to install an OS on it as you have to use their boot utility to get the disk controller to show the drives.

[harsh forge]

Will work as it mentions in description compatible with tuya and smart life app

[winged knoll]

Tuya

[fringe moon]

You mean enter intelligent provisioning and configure the raid of the drives? Then boot a usb stick with the preferred os? @final stag

[final stag]

Yeah, it's been in the loft for about 4 years so I can't remember the specifics, but I put an SSD into the DVD drive as a boot drive and getting it to recognise that was a pain I seem to remember.

[fringe moon]

That should just use the onboard SATA controller that is part of the Intel chipset

Not the smart array controller

[full frost]

Friend of mine asks if its reccomended to run home assistant on pi4?

wont that be too slow?

[zealous dune]

not if you run only HA and use an SSD

[winged knoll]

To be fair I ran HA on a Pi3 for a couple of years and other than storage it wasn't too slow

[fringe moon]

It is a less desirable option

It will work fine for most

[winged knoll]

Pi4+SSD is IMO a fairly solid base platform - not awesome, but not terrible

Unlike the Pi3 and below

[zealous dune]

but if you mean to treat it as the main server... nope

[full frost]

it will just be for getting all home appliances under one roof

pref including camera's, but i've already said that this costs too much resources

[fringe moon]

Then buy any laptop or minicomputer from the last 10 years

Mostly

[zealous dune]

and then the cameras get mentioned... as always

[fringe moon]

Just add more pi's!

[zealous dune]

kubernetes pi cluster

[winged knoll]

Pi4 + Coral USB stick + Frigate should be ok. Not awesome, but ok

You're about 2000000% better off with a PC at that point though

[full frost]

nah dont mention the cams, ive already told him thats not doable

yeah

ive reccomended a nuc

[fringe moon]

And a pi + SSD will be just as expensive as something used and 10x better

[zealous dune]

good

[slate cipher]

what about a SFF Dell or HP?

[full frost]

i myself run a headless server

with a fractal node case

little monster

[copper cairn]

Hello, I hope this is the correct area to ask this: I'm looking for a smart power plug to monitor instant power draw. I want to use the instant power for automation in HA. Can you give me some options that have this parameter? Brands I can source easily are D-link, Hama, TP-link, Tellur, Tenda. I'm Located in Eastern Europe (Romania). I don't have a protocol preference but I would like it to be able to function standalone, without additional equipment.

[bright jacinth]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

Command '~what' was invoked by: Tinkerer

[winged knoll]

Your choices do depend significantly on where in the world you are

[final stag]

Just a quick aside. I try to make sure my wife can manage HA too and she is happy with the what was Hassio, with the supervisor and everything manageable from HA. If I install HA on a PC instead of a Pi, I assume I can still get this experience without needing to mess around with docker etc?

[bright jacinth]

Hass.io was the old name for the appliance like install option, that uses Docker. It was renamed in January 2020 and is now called Home Assistant OS (see #330990055533576204).

Command '~hassio' was invoked by: Tinkerer

[winged knoll]

TL/DR: Yes

[slate cipher]

are the coral usb sticks beneficial on a windows server at all?

[fringe moon]

Is anything beneficial on windows?

[slate cipher]

well funny you mention that, I am thinking of changing my MB to one that has a NIC supported by linux

mine isn't...

[fringe moon]

I find that hard to believe

[winged knoll]

Even Realtek is "supported" by Linux

[fringe moon]

Hey, they finally do work good enough these days

Heck, they even work in bsd

Reliable

[copper cairn]

I am located in Eastern Europe (edited my post), I don't have a smart protocol preference

[full frost]

@copper cairn i myself use a tp-link 110 (i believe) it gives me various parameters that i can use.

[fringe moon]

Tplink work... Ok, unless you update it

Then they block local control

[winged knoll]

I'd go with Zigbee, and Innr in particular

[copper cairn]

Thank you, it was an option I considered as I saw it has integration. So it shows instant power draw? Any issues like atxbyea described below?

[copper cairn]

Does zigbee require additional gateway? I'm not familiar with Innr, I can't really find anything in my area

[fringe moon]

Yes, it requires a coordinator

But it does meshing

Which is very handy

[winged knoll]

And is 100% local, so you don't have to worry about cloud services going down or firmware updates locking you out of it

[copper cairn]

I think i have somewhere an old gateway for the zigbee water sensor which i don't use after I moved :p . I will have to check, but If my memory serves me right that was Xiaomi

[fringe moon]

Don't

[bright jacinth]

Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.

Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.

Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.

Command '.pickyourstick' was invoked by: atxbyea

[full frost]

what @fringe moon says is true, they've recently shut down local support i believe. I just havent given that one a firmware upgrade so i encounter no issues.

[fringe moon]

I just Block mine from the internet

[full frost]

I run HA for half a year or so now, and while i've enjoyed quite some support from here my general rule is: if you like to learn than HA has a way out of any problem.

for instance what @fringe moon says, theres lot's of ways to go about

[zealous dune]

and then there's this https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9uwqPm

[full frost]

Wonderful grammar in those reviews 😃

[fringe moon]

Such auto translate wow

[full frost]

But having a Dutch flag would imply that they're native right?

😛

[fringe moon]

They might write it in language X and it gets translated to language y based on your client settings

Perhaps they wrote it in English and it gets auto translated to Dutch for you

Even if the user themselves are Dutch

[worn compass]

I am using a bench of Aqara temperature sensors, with a raspberry Pi4 + raspbee2 +deCONZ . For some of them I am at the limit of the range, and would like to extend the network at lowest cost. I have seen ikea Tradfri range extender should do the job, unfortunately it is of stock at any places I could reasonably think of buying, for now more that 2 months 😦 Is there any alternative ?

[zealous dune]

https://zigbee.blakadder.com/routers

[fringe moon]

Bulbs are always great

[worn compass]

I've seen that philips hue shoud work. But they all have a color rendering index=80. I only use bulbs with CRI >90

[final stag]

Okay, I've purchased a zigbee stick. Now I just need to decide on if I want to ressurect this Gen 8 microserver, or get something a bit more compact!!

[winged knoll]

Hopefully not a CC2531 stick, or a ZBbridge, or a ConBee 😄

[worn compass]

And I guess bulbs only work if they are powered, I mean my home still has the old-fashioned button to turn on and off the light, and mixing this with zigbee-controlled light will not work smoothly

[winged knoll]

Correct

Make the switches smart instead

[fringe moon]

Eh

Or just stop using buttons

[hollow lance]

lol windows

god dammit

i was scrolled up again

[zealous dune]

still relevant

[slate cipher]

Yep, except the "support" does not cover the RTL8125BG drivers. There is probably a work around but too much for me tbh, Win Server was the easier option

[winged knoll]

Oh, Realtek has always been a shit show. Their network drivers are the stuff of legend, for all the wrong reasons.

[slate cipher]

ah fair enough...

is the HAOS limited to 32GB in a VM Image? and when running in a container, is there a limit on size?

[final stag]

Mini PC with a Xeon Bronze 3104 processor, 8GB RAM and a 128GB SSD should be more than enough for HA right?

[slate cipher]

It runs on a Pi, so yeah....

[final stag]

Yeah but I'm replacing a Pi as it's chugging along

[slate cipher]

anything would be better 😄

[final stag]

Now that I have 8 motion sensors, 5 open shut sensors, 4 temp sensors and 20 lights, all automated, I should probably get something beefier than a Pi 3 before I do anything more!

[fringe moon]

Oh, 2.5g bullshit @slate cipher 🤢 should be supported though

[fringe moon]

https://tenor.com/view/rookie-numbers-wolf-of-wallstreet-mark-hanna-matthew-mcconaughey-gif-17120857

[slate cipher]

yeah, i spent two weeks pulling my hair out trying to get it working, using usb wifi dongles, trying to transfer the driver with a usb stick, but without being able to have the ethernet connected, i couldn't get drivers for anything else hahaha. fmd

[empty silo]

I’ve been trying to connect Aqara Blind Driver and I found that its status isn’t updated automatically. For now the only solution is to update status every few seconds or after you open/close them. Unfortunately, my wife is often using on device buttons, so update after open/close (from HA) is something that just not work for me and updating status every few seconds is draining battery… Have someone maybe found a better solution?

[proven girder]

On this note, how does the shelly stuff work? Like how does it know the switch is on/ off without killing itself

[tepid heart]

Wut?

[proven girder]

As in the shelly can tell when the basic dumb switch is toggled. How does it do that

[zealous dune]

electricity

[winged knoll]

If you wire the switch to the inputs of the Shelly then either there's a connection, or there's not

[proven girder]

So does it go switch controlled device -> shelly and then shelly -> switch?

So the shelly can see the switch going on/ off and toggling?

[zealous dune]

something like that

the wifi chip registers the switch togglies and tells the relays what to do

[proven girder]

Ahh cool. Sounds useful

Can you have it not toggle the relay and just pass through to HA that the switch was toggled?

[zealous dune]

sure if the firmware supports that

[proven girder]

Nice

[winged knoll]

https://www.vesternet.com/pages/apnt-137-standard-2-way-lighting-circuit-using-fibaro-dimmer-2 is an example with a different brand

[slate cipher]

Yes via the detached switch mode

[final stag]

Moving to a bigger place this year. Mission: Automate Everything

[worn compass]

Well, will do when I have a new house. Not sure this is a cheap solution, though. Now I wonder if the aqara smart plug could help repeating the signe . And also, would it memorize a given programmation ?

[winged knoll]

would it memorize a given programmation
"it"?

Most smart plugs/bulbs aren't "smart" in that way

[worn compass]

I mean the aqara smart plug: https://www.amazon.de/Aqara-Steckdose-Smart-kompatibel-Sp-euc01/dp/B087M8LF63.

[winged knoll]

Then no, like most smart plugs it's not smart just controllable

[sleek parrot]

Guys, what would be less power hungry CPU for home server Pentium G6400 or Intel Core i3-10105? Is there any sites with power consumptiuon tests?

[winged knoll]

Well, the answer is it depends

A CPU with a higher max power draw may idle lower

Intel publish specs, Google can find them

You can then use things like benchmarks to work out what that means in terms of "benchmark unit per watt"

[fringe moon]

A full system with 10105 appears to draw 35w at idle

Not sure how much lower you want to go

[gentle fossil]

the 10105 tdp is at 65W

a pi uses 6W max

[hollow mulch]

I am thinking about setting up a home assistant dashboard. Do I need to have home assistant on every device running

such like im thinking for making a dashboard for family with just a calendar, menu and notes. But then having another one for controlling devices

[gentle fossil]

home assistant is primarily a server and works headless

you can point whatever client you want at it to display a dashboard, as long as it has a browser it will work

[hollow mulch]

So I could add home assistant onto an old PC that I have sitting around and then just log into the home assistant account

Im guessing on one account I can set up multiple "dashboards". correct

Sorry I am very very new at this. Ive been thinking of doing some thing like this for a while

[gentle fossil]

the possibilities are endless, just go ahead and install/try it

[hollow mulch]

Okay. Thank you. I will install to old laptop

is there a requirement for like old ipads.

I still have a v2 ipad, would it run on that

[fringe moon]

Tdp sure, but that is maximum theoretical load

[gentle fossil]

with a maximum theoretical load of 65W you can go way higher than 35W including drive and memory etc

and we are talking intel. when intel says 65w is theoretical max it will be 65 at high load fixed

[fringe moon]

[gentle fossil]

my i7-6700 has a tdp of 65 - it uses 50 minimum at all times

[hollow mulch]

@gentle fossil Thank for your help and advice

[civic kraken]

Hasn't intel had more than little trouble lately with the TDP values?

[drifting grove]

hello, I have home with a lot of wires on single (actually two) place. There are window sensors, doors, lights, etc... I like wires 🙂 What is the best approach to get things into home assistant? Using google I have found many approach like ESPHome, which I like, but none of my research has found nice project for wired devices.. My original idea is using a bunch of rpi pico connected using usb (serial line) to home assistant HW (whatever I finally choose). Any hints what to look for?

[winged knoll]

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/konnected/ is used by many

[drifting grove]

is there anything with more common hw supported? It seems to me that it supports primary hw from "Konnected Alarm Panel or a ESP8266 development board". I need to connect around 40 binary inputs and around 20 1-wire devices (temperature/humidity mainly). For the future monitoring of power consumption will be nice also.

[winged knoll]

I'd be surprised if ESPHome and Tasmota didn't support wired sensors

[fringe moon]

20 devices should be easy with the right board

I know @smoky tapir makes a few cool ones

I bought a 64 input one from him

[drifting grove]

problem is not wired sensors. I see as problem that sensors have to be connected to wireless device (ESP for example)

[fringe moon]

Yes, that board uses an esp

That sends all sensor data from the wired devices wirelessly to ha

If all wires converge at one place that is

If not you need one esp per end location

[drifting grove]

I have two locations (upstairs and downstairs) and I want to connect all things by wires. I have also a few ethernet cables between locations.

for tsting I have used raspbery pico for connecting a few things. It works nice. I would now to know how to get data to home assistant. I am totally new to ha. I have just spent about 10 hours reading...

this integration seems like a step forward for me https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/pcal9535a/

[fringe moon]

Esphome can do it easily

With expander boards

[winged knoll]

There's also a non-zero chance that the integration you found will be removed in the near future

https://github.com/home-assistant/architecture/blob/master/adr/0019-GPIO.md

[drifting grove]

can you point me in esphome to xpander boards? I see on main pag (https://esphome.io/) only wireless devices in supported devices.

[drifting grove]

thanks for warning

[fringe moon]

https://esphome.io/components/mcp230xx.html

But you are better off buying a finished board

I think @smoky tapir does 16/20/32/64 input ones

Like this one

https://github.com/logichousepcb/ESPHome-20-port-RJ45-GPIO

[drifting grove]

I believe that this will add more inputs to esp board itself making possible to rad more binary sensors and send them over wifi to homassistant. I am in search for completely wired solution here.

[fringe moon]

It supports wired Ethernet if you have the right esp

[drifting grove]

ps, can you send links to fire? Is it an company, or person on discord?

hmmm, I will have a look for esp with ethernet. Thanks

[fringe moon]

Mentioned user makes a board with wired Ethernet built in

Just slot in the esp

[drifting grove]

is there any chance to find some ha experienced electrician nearby (Europe/Slovakia)? If yes, where/how to find one? 🙂

[fringe moon]

I've not seen any Slovakian people here

Only Croatian and polish

[drifting grove]

hmmm, czech seems are doing also som hw... https://github.com/pilotak/eth-io

Another source of information on wired setup can be found also here: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/esphome-ethernet-connectivity-feature-request/110390/26 (just for future references, if discord have archive indexed...)

[next solstice]

any recs for a replacement to the inovelli 4-1 sensor? I liked it for motion/temp/humid, zwave and made in the US/EU -- and price point. next closest that I can find is the Aeotec 3-1 or 6-1 but they're almost double the price. thanks! (according to inovelli customer support their 4-1 sensor is discontinued)

[next solstice]

i see Zooz has one, but cant find any info about that company

[sudden moth]

Anyone have a problem starting Oracle VirtualBox? That's what I've been running home assistant on but it doesn't seem to want to start up and was giving me an error of a drive that doesn't exist.

[whole vault]

Also currently looking at sensors. Aeotec was supposed to start taking over the manufacturing/were supposed to start manufacturing the Aeotec Multipurpose Sensor (identical to the Smart things sensor, vibration/temp/accelerometer etc)…Not sure what happened…

[next solstice]

what is the "smart things sensor" ?

[whole vault]

If I am only going to be using HA “for one room” a 4GB raspberry pi should serve me just fine, right?

[next solstice]

yes.

[whole vault]

A sensor made by smart things… hold on…

[sudden moth]

The Smart Things sensors were manufactured by Samsung until about a year ago. Aeotec took over as their manufacturing partner and "rebranded" it. I cannot find any "Samsung" sensors anymore. The Aeotec hub is identical to the Samsung Smartthings hub, which is why I say they were rebranded.

Samsung still supports it under the smartthings accounts.

That's my understanding anyway.

[whole vault]

Well would you look at that… Aeotec puleed through😂 My bad.

Here is a link to the Aeotec sensor: https://aeotec.com/smartthings/zigbee-multipurpose-sensor.html#buy

[sudden moth]

There ya go... the Samsung branded "smartthings" sensor is identical to that one.

[whole vault]

From what I have heard it’s a solid sensor. It’s more expensive then the inovelli though…

[sudden moth]

The batteries die rather quickly. I have a handful of them and have replaced the batteries at least 3 times in the last year.

[whole vault]

(Credit to Smart Home Solver on YT. I first saw the sensor in one of his videos.)

[sudden moth]

They're Zigbee as well but the Aeotec Hub accommodates Z-Wave and Zigbee devices.

[whole vault]

Other than that, I’m not really sure about other All-in-one type sensors…

[sudden moth]

Aeotec's Multisensor 6 is solid, It takes 2xCR123A batteries and they last a while, I haven't replaced those in a year and a half and I'm still getting a ton of charge on them (I can't tell you how much right now my home assistant is dead). It also has an input for USB power. However, you cannot use USB and battery at the same time.

[whole vault]

I know this is a very open question, but what are some recommendations for a very good, budget/value for money Z-wave device? I’m as of now primarily going to get Zigbee devices but since I already have the Z-wave stick, I’d love to give a good z-wave device a go…

[sudden moth]

What types of devices are you looking for?

There are a ton of sensors, switches, light controls, etc.. out there.

[whole vault]

No real need for Temp/Humidity sensor, since I believe that the cable for my RM4 Pro will cover that. Most smart light switches won’t work in my country either, so need to recommend those😂

Some bulb’s, perhaps?

[sudden moth]

Are you running 220 or 110? You said most switches won't work in your country so I'm assuming 220/240v

[whole vault]

I live in South Africa… let me check…

[sudden moth]

Looks like you're using 230v at 50hz

[whole vault]

Yup

[ruby bone]

Mainly the devices I use are Amazon speakers,doorbell,arlo, spotlight etc, Samsung smart tv, lg washer dryer, Samsung smart fridge, ADT security system, I robot, schlage smart door lock.

I bought the nortek security control usb for RPI4

I don’t know which of these would apply to either zigbee or z-wave, I also know that they are mainly Wi-Fi enabled devices, but there’s an advantage of using either zigbee or zwave - and could I use both at once ?

[whole vault]

Thats what I got as well

[whole vault]

I believe you can, yes…

[ruby bone]

I’m just curious if it would solely connect through zigbee/zwave rather than Wi-Fi. Idk man total noob here that just got a rpi4 bunch of accessories and ambition lol

[sudden moth]

Does your wiring have a neutral wire? I can only assume it does.

[ruby bone]

Is there any add-one or integrations anybody would recommend with HASSIO, Zigbee, Z-Wave and LoveLace as the UI

[sudden moth]

Lotion, that's all personal preference. I have my door locks, switches, and lights all on my lovelace dashboard as well as the local weather.

[ruby bone]

Gotcha - and you use Zigbee/zwave or Wi-Fi most likely so I probably won’t run into any problems just have to do the setup configuration and UI tweak everything

[sudden moth]

@whole vault, for the light switches, I would look into the Shelly devices. They make them for 110-240v circuits. I have the Shelly 1 and it has Dry Contacts (meaning I can have the relay activated by the line voltage but it does not have line voltage on the relay unless I connect it there). I am going to have it act as a remote for the fireplace here.

Lotion, I am trying to move away from zigbee because I don't have a Zigbee hub for home assistant on the RPI3

[ruby bone]

Gotcha, so I wouldn’t have any problems given I ended up getting the RPI4 and nortek USB for my client that I’m working for

I’m curious about the voice command like “hey Alexa” when integrating everything.. probably just need to do some more research to if I program it in the native Alexa app or can tweak and program it on HA etc

[sudden moth]

You shouldn't have any issues with it... There are Z-Wave and Zigbee hubs that you can integrate to the RPI, however, instead of connecting dongles, you could have them connect both with the Aeotec Hub as it does both zigbee and zwave. You will have to configure that connection in the home assistant config.

I haven't done that because I don't have a need for the zigbee stuff right now. I simply don't have enough devices to justify connecting the hub to Home Assistant.

Home Assistant has a separate cloud service that is $5/mo to link Alexa and HA.

I don't KNOW if it is HA, I believe it is a 3rd party that does it.

[ruby bone]

Right, I’ve been kind of guessing and researching my way through this, I didn’t know if I actually needed the hub but I bought it a couple days ago. It gives the client future connectivity options so I’m sure wether or not I needed it, it benefits them .

Last question , I’ve heard DuckDNS brought up quite often, is this something you Use personally?

[whole vault]

Thanks for the recommendations, @sudden moth. I appreciate it. I actually don’t have a neutral wire and it makes things difficult. I will take a look at the shelly range of device’s. Thanks!

[whole vault]

I am also not really sure what’s up with duck DNS. What is it? Why do I need/want it?

[sudden moth]

Lotion, It's not NEEDED if you have a Zigbee and Zwave dongle but it might make things easier... give it a shot.

[whole vault]

Cool. I’m going to role with that…

😂

[ruby bone]

IDK but I’ve heard it brought up in multiple YouTube videos - I’ll check it out and see if I’m going to implement it

[sudden moth]

DuckDNS is a Dynamic DNS entry for your home network. You set it up on your home router to log into DuckDNS and it will update a hostname to point to your dynamic IP address a couple times a week. That way you will never have to worry about your IP address changing if you need to access your system remotely.

I have not used it, although I do have a different service, because I have a VPN to my home network. I login through my routers VPN and I can access everything on my network.

Actually, I guess the other service I use is doing the same thing... I tell the VPN connection on my phone to access that particular hostname and it points to my home network. So yes, I guess I am using it, just not DuckDNS' service.

[whole vault]

Thanks allot for the help HoleDozer! I’ll see if I need DuckDNS once I am at the point of setting up the entire system.

[sudden moth]

NP, if you need anything else, let me know.

I'm not a HA pro by any means as I've just started setting it up myself but I think I might take it a different route this time and setup the DuckDNS (or try to).

[glossy prism]

There's nothing special about duckDNS in particular; it's just another dynamic DNS service

[sudden moth]

I didn't think so but wasn't sure if it was a service particularly for HA. I've never tried to set it up or look into it.

[pine apex]

are there any recommendations for cameras to use with Home Assistant. I've finally ditched my indoor Nest cameras and would like to get local only cameras that place nicely with Home Assistant that can record to local storage

[gloomy spoke]

Probably in #cameras-archived

[pine apex]

...

fair enough haha

[alpine canyon]

Hi all, there is anyone who knows you can create routines in one shelly i3 device for loratap devices (by HA) ?

[wanton burrow]

Hi. I've bought tuya water leak sensor and as I opened it, sadly I found out, that there is no esp8266 inside, rather cb3s:( now I can't install tasmota. Is there any way to implement this sensor to HA to work locally, not going to the cloud.

[winged knoll]

There's a couple of local Tuya #integrations-archived

[hollow crater]

I have problems adding my plugwise stretch device

it is discovered (iit seems) but entering my ID it will not accept it

[pearl urchin]

I am considering buying a 24" touchscreeen and slapping a RaspberryPi on it, to get a nice big lovelace for the kitchen.
I havent used RaspberryPi's before, which would would be a good one for this project?

[winged knoll]

Anything USB C powered is better than anything older

[pearl urchin]

which os should i slap on it?

[fringe moon]

Linux is Linux mostly

If you don't know any, any is good, rpios is fine

But don't expect responsiveness with SD cards

[final stag]

What motion, open/close and temp sensors (that are ZigBee) are recommended at the moment? I have Xaomi ones from a few years ago that have been very solid, but they can be a pain to get hold of.

[fringe moon]

Aqara

Lots of them on AliExpress

Never had an issue getting them

[boreal oar]

Anyone use cat6 for low voltage wiring? I'm thinking of using it to send the relay signal from an Athom esphome garage opener to my garage door. Seems common enough to use cat6, but wondering what the best practice is, like which wire, i assume don't use both wires of the same twisted pair

[fringe moon]

Would be fine enough

[boreal oar]

you think use one wire from one color's twist pair for -, and another wire from a diff colour's twisted pair for + ?

[fringe moon]

Sure

Guess we are talking either 5v continuous or instantaneous?

Remember PoE is 48v continuous and 15-45w

Over two wires

In the same pair

[jovial pulsar]

Hue beats out anything else I've tried in everything but size and cost.

[boreal oar]

I believe it's 5v, yeah, and wouldn't be continuous

didn't know POE was same pair, maybe i'll do that then

[fringe moon]

Originally it was the brown pair

Newer ones use the brown and blue

Since blue was traditionally pots

And ISDN does 100+ v

[winged knoll]

I remember the fun of connecting ISDN to not ISDN and watching the magic smoke

[fringe moon]

I used to lick the wires to figure out which were live

[jovial pulsar]

Huh. I had no idea despite plenty of opportunities to find out the hard way.

[modern ginkgo]

Is there a recommended hub for zigbee devices?

[zealous dune]

#zigbee-archived pinned messages

[winged knoll]

Hub ==

[modern ginkgo]

Whats the general recomended setup then?

[winged knoll]

See the #zigbee-archived pinned messages?

Top two there

[modern ginkgo]

Sorry, for home assistant in general

[winged knoll]

For Zigbee in Home Assistant?

[modern ginkgo]

I just set up a home assistant docker in my unraid server, was looking to add a bunch of zigbee lights

[winged knoll]

This whole Discord is about Home Assistant, so ... still the top two pinned messages there

[modern ginkgo]

Gotcha, so instead of a hub, I would run the zigbee2mqtt docker on my server and use a usb adapter?

[winged knoll]

Or ZHA, but IMO Z2M is a good choice

You can also get network connected coordinators - Tube does some brilliant ones - if you've got a good wired coverage

[modern ginkgo]

Zigbee wireless or regular wifi?

[winged knoll]

Wired network, WiFi + Zigbee ==

[modern ginkgo]

Wired, miss read that lol

I can add ethernet anywhere I need

[winged knoll]

Tube even does some PoE ones

So, you can stick the coordinator nice and central, with your HA setup anywhere

[modern ginkgo]

Okay, so the docker communicates remotely to that

[winged knoll]

Yeah

[modern ginkgo]

That seems like a good option

[winged knoll]

https://www.tubeszb.com/shop/coordinators/2

[modern ginkgo]

Do those go back in stock?

[winged knoll]

Regularly, and you can find the seller in #zigbee-archived

[fringe moon]

I'm waiting for mine

[modern ginkgo]

Any major difference between that and a usb model?

[winged knoll]

No functionally speaking, no

The difference is that you can stick it anywhere you've got wired networking

[modern ginkgo]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165178757770

That looks similar too

Also out of stock lol

What does everyone in the world use zigbee now?

[winged knoll]

Yeah, most of these are made by hobby sellers

Couple that with a chip shortage...

[modern ginkgo]

Thats fair

Well I found approximately one zigbee wafer led

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Juno-Connected-Wafer-Integrated-LED-6-in-75-Watt-Equivalent-Matte-White-Round-Dimmable-Canless-Recessed-Downlight/5000183151

Completely by accident too, thought it was wifi at first

So I'm trying to figure out what hardware I need to control them via home assistant

[winged knoll]

If you're using Zigbee2MQTT they have a list of known working hardware

[modern ginkgo]

Wait so if it's not on there its not supported?

[winged knoll]

Correct

You can add support yourself though

[modern ginkgo]

I see that, doesn't look too bad

Right now I have them connected to my google hub, is there any way to add them to home assistant

[winged knoll]

No

Google (and Amazon) want you to use them as the hub, not other things

[modern ginkgo]

That makes sense, I really just want home assistant for better routines

[winged knoll]

Oh, what a rabbit hole you're falling into...

[modern ginkgo]

Absolutely lol

All started with wanting stupid color temp changing lights

Swapping all my overhead lighting to wafers, and like I said theres one option for zigbee

[winged knoll]

So, if you get ones that support colour temperature, you get to use https://github.com/basnijholt/adaptive-lighting

[modern ginkgo]

Oh thats exactly what I want

Amazing, thank you

[winged knoll]

Don't worry, there's a few thousand more shiny toys you'll find

[modern ginkgo]

Yeah, I've always wanted to do sensors

Might see if theres anything I can do with heating too

Well I added HACS so thats a start

This is control overload, I'll revisit once I've eaten lol

[finite juniper]

Replacing my Wyze sense v1 contact sensors as I lost a few due to known low battery issue. Would you guys prefer RF 433MHz or Zigbee? I have both sonoff RF and Zigbee bridge, I just feel RF would give more range but I also want to think about future proofing my setup. Found a RF sensor which sends both open and close codes but doesn’t report battery status. Any suggestion or thoughts?

[modern ginkgo]

Wow, even supports lg thinq

[whole vault]

Good evening everyone. Who here uses the Temp/Humidity sensor cable for the Broadlink RM4 Pro? I just want to know if the sensors are actually accurate.

[hollow lance]

i don't, but i do think it's dumb that they don't include those sensors in the actual unit itself

really dumb.

[hollow lance]

as much as i detest zigbee as a communication standard, i'd probably prefer it to 433mhz

do you have the sonoff wifi to zigbee bridge? i hear those things are dodgy.

[gentle fossil]

no way 433 gets the same range as zigbee, I recently saw a video where a guy paired a motion sensor a mile away from the coordinator

[gloomy spoke]

that's pretty crazy

I would expect that to require a dedicated long-range AP for Wifi in the same band

[gentle fossil]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Sdppe1_-jA

he has some very advanced setup, but hey it works 😄

[finite juniper]

yup, it’s sonoff wifi to Zigbee, I don’t have that many Zigbee devices so it suits my need.

[finite juniper]

Btw what’s your reason to prefer Zigbee over 433?

[whole vault]

I know. The cable (sold separately) costs around $10 on Amazon. I guess what I am trying to get at, is if there is any other Temp/Humidity sensor for $10? (That can do a better job than the RM4 Pro cable) I don’t really need EXTREME accuracy, but I also don’t want the sensor to be completely useless. Could it be that with most separate/dedicated sensors, the Zigbee/WiFi/Z-wave receivers etc. are what make them more expensive than the cable? That is the only real explanation I can think of…

[peak talon]

for starters - It's a mesh network and not 1-1 like 433

[finite juniper]

Sure I understand that and I have both z-wave and Zigbee setup at home. The question I asked is specific to contact sensors, since those are battery operated, it is not going to act as a repeater thus not contributing to mesh. Wouldn’t RF be a better option in that case as it’s gonna cost you less and doesn’t bog down 2.4 ghz frequency? The one thing that RF doesn’t do is keep alive polls as it’s pretty much a dumb device which responds to actions.

[peak talon]

The battery operation of the Zigbee should be similar to RF as most of the time they should be sleeping. The problem with RF is that 3 fold - you would need to have a dedicated receiver (agreed that it could list to multiple transmitters) which adds up to the "hub" 2 is the interfrence of RF is much higher. You might not require too much security on door sensor but RF are easier to break

so IMHO, it might not make sense to buy a new RF device, if you have existing setup already - by all means continue

[finite juniper]

Thanks, I agree with all your statements. I have RF bridge too, so either route works for me but wanted to make the best decision. If Zigbee has a clear advantage over RF for this particular use case I want to go with Zigbee, if not I will stick to RF to save cost. Thanks again for taking time to respond. I appreciate it.

[peak talon]

my pleasure. the rein of new technologies will continue to evolve so new products are there always - some good some bad. Get ready for the "Thread" to become mainstream - luckily those devices / co-ord which are on latest chip could just be flashed to thread firmware

[hollow lance]

The few 433mhz devices I’ve attempted to control have been problematic. While zigbee can be a fickle mistress, it’s generally fairly reliable.

[fringe moon]

433 is horrid for anything but sensors

And even then ZigBee is a huge upgrade

[zealous dune]

433 is akin to using smoke signals

[fringe moon]

Smoke signals you might see

If the weather is good

[modern ginkgo]

How do we feel about sonoff zigbee devices? Considering picking up a few to start along with the cheap usb coordinator

[fringe moon]

Eeeh from me

[zealous dune]

We feel cold and distant

[modern ginkgo]

If I purchase a cheap usb coordinator and set up a zigbee system, if I change it out for one of the nicer ones is there a lot of work to do?

[fringe moon]

Maybe

And the frustration will kill the enjoyment

[modern ginkgo]

Like do you need to repair all the devices?

[fringe moon]

Usually not

Just buy a proper coordinator to begin with

[modern ginkgo]

I'm only adding like 10 devices right now at most

[modern ginkgo]

I plan on it, everything is out of stock

https://www.tubeszb.com/product/cc2652_poe_coordinator/21?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=2

I want one of these by the sounds of it

[fringe moon]

If you have Poe and a good location it is a great choice

[modern ginkgo]

I'm kinda rebuilding my house so anything goes

Sort of thinking I was going to use an access panel in the wall and just shove it in there

[fringe moon]

Hopefully not a metal access panel

[modern ginkgo]

lol

No just a plastic thing that clips into a square drywall hole

But I just started this yesterday so who knows

[sudden moth]

Does anyone know if there is a way to remove the entire Z-Wave network (all devices/nodes) at once?

[stuck nest]

I've got a bedroom light switch that I want to replace with a smart button (not a switch). The idea would be that the power would always be "hot" to the ceiling fan/light, and I can have smart bulbs to control lights, and no one can "accidentally" shut off the ceiling fan. I want the button to control the lights via HomeAssistant.

button would need to be Zigbee compatible and fit inside a standard lightswitch recepticle. Ideally, it can be "hard lined" and tap into the main house power (not battery powered), since the power's right there.

Any suggestions? Is there a better solution I'm overlooking?

[sudden moth]

@stuck nest, have you looked at the Shelly devices? They're pretty small and I just installed one behind a switch last night. You can make the switch always hot but the controller would do everything behind the scenes. They are WiFi, not Zigbee but you could set up a scene that toggled the light with the button.

[stuck nest]

I have not - I've seen "Shelly devices" mentioned frequently, but never knew what they were. Is there a primer somewhere that I can read up on them and see if it would do the trick?

[sudden moth]

shelly.cloud

https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-1-smart-home-automation-relay/

They can be locally controlled with HA and do not have to be connected to the cloud.

[stuck nest]

Thanks a bunch! I'll read up on this afternoon

[sudden moth]

They also have a ton of other switches for various things... This is your basic switch, they have one for power monitoring, they have a dual switch, all that good stuff.

If you want to be able to remotely control 2 devices, you might be better off with the Shelly 2.5 here: https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-25-smart-home-automation-relay/

That one allows you to have, basically, 2 controlled switches in the same controller. I should also mention the Shelly 1 has what is called "Dry Contacts" meaning you will need to connect hot in 2 places on it.

If you need help, or are confused, with the wiring, let me know and I'll see if I can help you out.

[timber sonnet]

can anyone recommend wifi camera? prefer 5ghz

[sudden moth]

Try looking in #cameras-archived

I cannot recommend anything, I don't use WiFi cameras, all of mine are POE

[fringe moon]

[lunar pelican]

hey guys i’m looking for a device for an alarm panel that could integrate total connect and my alarm panel with home assistant via zigbee communication. i don’t have an alarm yet but definitely thinking about getting one as i work at an alarm company but i would want to integrate it with my home assistant instance

so i found the Honeywell VAM i’m wondering if you could use that to integrate the alarm with home assistant and be able to get all the zones and other info from the panel

[remote adder]

This is a stretch. I have a Feit Camera Doorbell that is working through Tuya I cannot access the motion sensor in HA, anyone thought of a work around? I am trying to get our front light to come on when the sensor is triggered, currently it is setup in Tuya but would prefer to keep it all in HA.

[karmic cargo]

I'm looking for some suggested reading on occupancy sensors. I could go either WiFi or ZigBee, but I'm looking to determine whether I want motion sensors or IR sensors or a combination of them both. I don't really want to have to wave my hands around if I'm sitting still at my desk too long, so, IMHO, IR would be better for that, but I don't know if there are down sides I'm not aware of. Anyone have suggestions on reading material? Of course, specific product recs are always welcome, too. 😉

[fringe moon]

Aqara

[karmic cargo]

I'd prefer battery powered, so I guess that means ZigBee.

[karmic cargo]

that at me?

How tunable is it so the dog isn't setting it off when we're not home?

[fringe moon]

If you angle it right

It shouldn't

But I've never tried since I have no pets

[sudden moth]

@karmic cargo, I have the Aeon Labs (Aeotec) Multisensor 6 and one of the parameters in the HA configuration is the "PIR Sensitivity" so the sensitivity for that one is adjustable.

It is a Z-Wave device, however.

But it does take 2 CR123 batteries that last a very long time... this one has had nearly a full charge for over a year but I was using it as a temperature sensor in my attic.

[karmic cargo]

I suppose lights randomly turning on because the dog's wandering around the house would make it appear that we're home, but we're not exactly in a high-crime neighborhood, so I'm not terribly worried 'bout that.

I suppose I could prevent the sensors from activating lights when we're not home or in "bed" mode or something like that...

I've got an Aqara on the way, I'll play and see how it works.

[karmic cargo]

Ima stick with just 2 protocols for now. I get lost enough as it is...

[sudden moth]

I can understand that, that's why I'm sticking with Z-Wave, but some of my devices aren

aren't Z-Wave so I need to go Zigbee

[sinful tree]

has anyone used these type of sensors?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003712994248.html (wifi version)

how easily do they integrate into Home Assistant?

[pale citrus]

x-post from zigbee channel - #zigbee-archived message
Any help with setting up zigbee2mqtt coordinator is appreciated

[sudden moth]

I have not used that one @sinful tree

[winged smelt]

Hi!
I am new to home automation (but have been dreaming the reason to do this). The reason I am here is to improve thermal regulation in our house as we are going from furnace to central heating with pellets. I would like to do it right before we are installing while we are planning things.

What type of solution are you using for your radiators and room temperature sensor?
What is your experience with accuracy, bugs, thermal regulation?
How often do you change batteries in wi-fi units vs Zigbee units?

I reside in EU / Latvia and currently am looking for reliable controllable thermostatic radiator valves (not wi-fi do not want to bog down my wi-fi). Maybe zigbee. Would prefer to see other options if available.
Is there a cabled option? How is that called? Is there a standart? Can not find anything on it.
Want to weigh my options before choosing the side.

As you can see I have been saving my breath 🙂

[sudden moth]

I purchased an ECOBEE thermostat, not sure if you can get those in EU, I would imagine you can. You can buy extra sensors to put in various rooms and it will average out the temperature of the ECOBEE thermostat. I have multiple sensors in the house because the builders did a HORRIBLE job properly insulating the house. There are other options you could look at if you are going to be using a forced air with that pellet heater (it looks like you are) such as getting vent campers that are controlled by HA.

Here is an example, of one... https://www.amazon.com/Suncourt-ZO212-Normally-Adjustable-Damper/dp/B078PQXF68/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Motorized+Damper&qid=1641613378&sr=8-5

Unfortunately I do not have this option for my house because of how the builders ran lines and tied everything in.

[winged smelt]

That draft thing could be useful in windy days to block overdraft in chimney.
Have you changed batteries already for your thermostats?

[sudden moth]

I just bought the Thermostat, prior to that I had a Nest with room sensors and they were about a year between battery changes.

[sonic raptor]

Hello! Not sure if it's this is the place for my question, but i will try.

I have a hallway with 3 deviator switches. All of them control the same light.

Is it possible to change only ONE of those switches with a smart one (WIFI or zigbee) so i can control it with HA (for example i have a motion sensor and when someone enters the hallway the lights to turn on), but also i want to be able to control them with the other two normal switches. I'm located in the EU (not sure if it matters)

[quaint verge]

Hi,
Looking for a smart dimmer that will work with with tasmota/tasmota flashed zigbee hub. I'm in the UK but do have neutral in the box im needing to upgrade. The switch needs to control 2 lights but 1 needs to be a dimmer (happy if both dimmable) I've used aqua d1 for none dimmable before connected to sonoff basic but need the dinner function.
Any thoughts/recommendations, happy for wired or battery but want it zigbee not wifi so not reliant on Internet only internal network. I don't want a smart bulb with always on switch, have to think about the wife factor

[little ginkgo]

Hi hi. Anyone know what is this thermostat?

https://imgur.com/a/Mppcypt

Tag me

[oak thicket]

Hey, can anyone recommend a good pressure(weight) sensor. I wanna put it under my bed to detect if someone lays in there.
If possible zigbee (wifi is okay aswell)
living in germany, eu

[fringe moon]

Diy

Lots of guides on the internet

Using esp and pressure plate sensors

[oak thicket]

so nothing commercial

tyty

wanted to get started with esp anyway

thats where i come from anyway (pcb, etc)

[remote adder]

Anyone here have a pet feeder that works well with HA?

A camera unit would be a nice to have but not required

[sudden moth]

@oak thicket you can look for something like this, but as atxbyea said it would take a little bit of DIY... https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Security-SK630-Pressure-Triggered/dp/B00GUNX7WY/ref=rvi_30/137-4814604-3730914?pd_rd_w=siyXm&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=ZF993Q847PSQSBXZRR06&pd_rd_r=56f3eccb-4242-4bc1-a0a0-7b418ac37135&pd_rd_wg=XqyXg&pd_rd_i=B00GUNX7WY&psc=1

[oak thicket]

should this work ?

https://www.amazon.de/Drucksensor-Hochgenauer-Dünnschicht-Kraftsensor-intelligente/dp/B07WJ9LDPR/ref=sr_1_21?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=F926HRB9MM84&keywords=kapazitärer+drucksensor&qid=1641656570&sprefix=kapazitärer+drucksensor%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-21

[sudden moth]

@sonic raptor, you should look into a Shelly switch, they are 110-220v smart switch (WiFi) and do not require a neutral. They're sold on Amazon and the Shelly website. You can read about them here... https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-1-smart-home-automation-relay/

Where on your bed did you want to put it? Under the sheets or under the mattress?

[oak thicket]

under the mattress

but it should be measureable with only 20g

[sudden moth]

That might work

I've never used a pressure sensor so I cannot guarantee results.

[sudden moth]

Checl out the Shelly Dimmer, I've found this: https://templates.blakadder.com/shelly_Dimmer_2.html and you can read about the Shelly dimmer here: https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-dimmer-2-smart-home-light-controller/

[oak thicket]

its 13 bucks guess i will try it out

[edgy fog]

@little ginkgo looks like this one: https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/sterownik-programator-auraton-2005-i7579437462.html

[sudden moth]

nice find @edgy fog, I had no idea where to start for that one.

[edgy fog]

Google Lens to the rescue.

[sudden moth]

I should also mention the Shelly switches are WiFi but do not require the cloud. I have a couple of them on my Home Assistant and HA manages them all, not connected to the cloud at all.

[drifting grove]

hey all. Can't seem to find the location where NTP is for my raspi4 with HA on it. Comunity forums seems out of date with the location. For some reason, my HA time is off by -4h

my current time is 17:51 but here is what my pi is showing
[core-ssh etc]$ date
Mon Dec 13 02:02:42 CET 2021

[winged knoll]

#330990055533576204 is likely the best place to get help with that

[drifting grove]

ok. Hardware is mostliekly what it means...."Hardware" issues 😉 Thanks

[winged knoll]

The channel topics are useful

[sour dove]

Hello , newbie question. If I wanted to connect 2 sonoff zigbee door connectors to HA installed on a pi4 do I need the sonoff bridge too.

[winged knoll]

No, you just need a #zigbee-archived coordinator and integration

The pinned messages there should get you going

[sour dove]

Thanks

[odd shore]

Not sure if this is the best place to ask for help, but I just can't figure out why I am having this issue.
I moved my Raspberry Pi running HA upstairs, where I have it plugged into a network switch.
Once I did that, I can no longer access it.
Can anyone give me some guidance?

[sudden moth]

how long was it plugged in before you tried accessing it?

When I put my HA on a RPI it took about 10 minutes to boot and load everything. I moved it to an Oracle VirtualBox machine.

[gloomy spoke]

or it got a different IP address

[winged knoll]

Do you even know it booted? Is the red power LED solid and did the green activity LED flicker during startup?

[odd shore]

It's been overnight

[sudden moth]

you should be able to access it by going to homeassistant.local:8123 regardless if it changed IP address

[odd shore]

Yes

It's solid and blinked green

[sudden moth]

ok, so you're booted and have NIC activity, is it a managed switch or unmanaged?

[odd shore]

unmanaged

[sudden moth]

Are you able to separate VLANs on it?

I would suggest getting a K&B and plugin a monitor.

[gloomy spoke]

or, you could look into your router/DHCP settings and see if you're using the right address...

[sudden moth]

^^^^ or that too

Getting a Keyboard, Mouse, and monitor would allow you to see if there are errors on the device

When you moved it, did you remove any USB devices? If so, did you plug them back into the same ports? (This shouldn't make a difference but weird things have happened).

[white phoenix]

Hi all. Looking for hardware recommendations for lightweight HA instance to run inside a shipping container for basic security system (frigate person detection, just one camera), temperature/humidity collection with esphome/8266 and contact door sensor (probably just a wire sensor running on an 8266). Outward facing connection needs to be through either a wifi connection or cellular - would stay with Tailscale as this is working excellent with current home setup. Also have a boat that is stored on the hard for part of the year (on the other side of the country) and would also use this same system there. Flexible power options, either 12v or 110v. Possible to integrate base os/router/sim into one device or do I need a router with sim card separate?

[winged knoll]

Person detection and Frigate means a Coral stick/board

[sudden moth]

Kevin, that's a tall order... 😄 inside a shipping container? will it move through the country or stay put?

[winged knoll]

I'd worry more about the Frigate requirements than HA's requiremetns

Practically speaking, you could probably get by with a Pi4 booting from SSD, a Coral Stick, and an external cellular modem/router

However, if you can get reliable power, a mini PC/laptop based setup may be more reliable

https://docs.frigate.video/hardware#server

[sudden moth]

I think an RPI is going to be slow for what you're trying to do. I would suggest looking at a mini PC with a better processor and more ram installed.

[fringe moon]

Anything will be better than a pi

Mostly

[boreal oar]

anyone have experience with ESP8285 devices? I've held down the reset switch for 5+ seconds and LED is blinking, but I'm not seeing a wifi AP pop up on my phone

[fringe moon]

Did you flash it with anything?

If not it won't show anything

[white phoenix]

on a bare lot

[boreal oar]

it's supposed to be pre-flashed with esphome

[fringe moon]

Supposed isn't very good

Connecting to the serial port will show if it is

[boreal oar]

well the product states clearly it comes pre-flashed with esphome

[fringe moon]

[boreal oar]

is it common that products that state they have esphome firmware don't actually have it?

because i'd never double check my zwave device via serial or something like that

[fringe moon]

WiFi != Zwave /ZigBee

[boreal oar]

okay

[white phoenix]

anybody been able to source a coral?

[fringe moon]

I have two

[boreal oar]

my point is why would your first thought be that maybe the device doesn't have esphome?

[fringe moon]

Because people forget

I've never ordered preflashed though, i just spend a few minutes flashing

[boreal oar]

okay well I don't have a way to connect it to serial, and i'd rather not break open its casing

[sour dove]

Could you elaborate on the required coordinator and intervention please. What I’ve seen would I need the usb3 dongle

[bright jacinth]

@sour dove Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.

Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.

Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.

Command '.pickyourstick' was invoked by: atxbyea

[little ginkgo]

Thanks

[pliant folio]

Hi! I wonder if someone could recommend a case for RPi 4 + RaspBee 2.

[cold mica]

I'm having all sorts of problems getting this to work can you please tell me how you obtained the local keys?

[brittle creek]

Sure, gimme about 30 and I can help

[sudden moth]

@sonic raptor, I apologize, I mistyped earlier, the Shelly devices to require a neutral to setup the devices. I will continue to see if I can find a solution for you.

[cold mica]

Hi all, I'm trying to use Local Tuya to integrate some test devices but I am not able to work out what the API or Key is so far I've tried HACS however there is no installer instead it points you back to github. I then tried installing bluestack to run "Smart Life" and installing bstweaker but the data does not populate even after I add the device and can test it through Smart Life emulator. Now I am looking at trying the Tuya developer but I have NFI where to start with this seems they are trying to sell me something

[brittle creek]

did you set up an account on iot.tuya.com?

[storm oyster]

Anyone ever used esp32 for auto irrigation?

[sonic raptor]

Sorry for the late reply! I talked with shelly and about this and they inform me that this won't work

[hollow lance]

No, but I'm using an esp8266-based Sonoff 4CH Pro R3 for my irrigation

[fringe moon]

I used an esp32 last year

Need to get my 64 channel esp8266 running

[azure zodiac]

Does anyone knows if the TP-Link USB Bluetooth Adapter (UB400) works well on the Odroid N2+ with HA OS?

[winged knoll]

#330990055533576204 would be the place to get an answer to that

[storm oyster]

Can you show me how its done?

[rocky spruce]

With Shelly 1PM what additional hardware is needed to pair it with a motor? I see reference to a small circuit but where to get them

I am trying to wire one into my espresso machine and it has a rotary pump / motor

[gray yacht]

Anyone know if it's possible to just reset the wifi on a tasmota device? I've got one and will give it to someone else, but I don't want to reset the device and lose the button config. Just have it fall back to initial wifi ap mode.

(device is Sonoff Mini r2)

[sudden moth]

@rocky spruce, the "O" terminal should be used to connect to the line side of your device. It is capable of switching 16A and should power your motor. Other than that, I'm not 100% sure what you're trying to do, you didn't give a lot of information.

[rocky spruce]

Just use it for remote on/off and power monitor. I already have it wired and it works fine. But I wasn’t clear if the language about adding additional circuitry in line with motors is an issue that would damage the Shelly pcb over time or what the impact is

I guess there is some in rush or transient current possibly as the pump motor starts. The espresso machine has its own controller and maybe that already has similar functionality anyway

I just asked in case it blew when I powered it on for the first time but at least after an hour and some use it seems fine as is

I also have a couple DIY audio amps that I wouldn’t mind adding Shelly to for power monitoring and over current purposes, but those have a lot of capacitors and maybe the issue of transient current as they turn on is more extreme

[sudden moth]

So the thing about the Shelly devices is that they are, essentially, switches. When you turn the Shelly 1PM off, it's like you're unplugging the espresso machine. Ultimately, you would want to turn the device off from the menu, but I don't believe unplugging it will hurt it.

[rocky spruce]

The power monitoring and safety shutoff seems to work well though. My espresso machine is switchable from 15 to 20a by either an internal switch or a program mode on the front panel. I thought I had it in 15A mode but the Shelly showed quickly that it was in 20a mode

I will just leave it on actually. It has its own low voltage switch that fires a relay to pass AC to all components

[sudden moth]

I don't drink coffee so I've never owned an espresso machine, I have a basic knowledge of electronics but in my years of experience I've never had an electronic blow up from unplugging it from or plugging it into the wall. I disconnect my monitors every night (remote power to turn them off/on) and they haven't had any issues yet.

[rocky spruce]

Sorry to hear, good espresso is good 🙂

And thanks

[sudden moth]

NP

[boreal oar]

can anyone recommend a zigbee or zwave light switch that's rated to handle controlling a receptacle (North America)

[quick girder]

Hello, I am new to Home Assistant.
Does anybody know if the HA image for ORDOID N2 supports the Bush-Jaeger USB to KNX interface 6123 USB out of the box? Or would I need to run a second setup with knxd to create an IP gateway for HA?

[winged knoll]

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/knx/ doesn't list that option

[quick girder]

The page says
"The integration requires a local KNX/IP interface or router. Through this, it will establish a connection between Home Assistant and your KNX bus."
But I cannot find any listed "local KNX interface" that is supported. Maybe a lack of my english understanding. I thought a KNX interface connected via USB is "local".

[karmic cargo]

I just got an Aqara Motion Sensor. What's the difference between the device_class: motion entry and the device_class: occupancy entry?

How would I use one or the other (or both?) when deciding on whether to turn lights on or off?

[winged knoll]

Well, it depends on which integration you're using, really

It's the integration that controls that, not the sensor

If you're using ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT then #zigbee-archived can help you. If you're using the Xiaomi hub then #integrations-archived can help

[karmic cargo]

OK, guess I'll head over to zigbee. thanks.

[rain burrow]

What motion sensor are folks recommending these days? Still don’t have time to do a fully custom one so need something that works out of the box with zwave, zigbee, or MQTT

[winged knoll]

For price, the Aqara one mentioned is hard to beat

[quick girder]

OK. Looks like #integrations-archived is the right place for my question, not #hardware-archived.

[gloomy sequoia]

any recommendations for ZigBee rgbw (or ct) bulbs that are also routers? I have a handful of sengled bulbs that I like a lot but they're not routers 🤬

US if it matters

[fringe moon]

IKEA

[gloomy sequoia]

hmm, they don't ship to my zip code 😑

[fringe moon]

You don't have an ikea in your area?

[gloomy sequoia]

think the closest one is ~2hr away

don't get over that way too often but maybe will plan a trip at some point

i've only got two more tuya bulbs to replace, and one of them i think has finally given up the ghost

so looking to grab two of something

would just grab 2pk of sengleds from amazon again but i'm thinking if i get two router bulbs then i can use them elsewhere and use my existing sengleds in those two spots

[hollow lance]

Irrigation

[fringe moon]

Didn't think any sengled were routers

[gloomy sequoia]

afaict that's right

what I meant is if I can get two that are, then I'll use them in place of two of my sengleds, and then use those in the two places I have tuya bulbs still

[pearl glade]

Wanted to get a raspberry pi for a home assistant hub but they’re sold out everywhere. What are some other recommendations?

[gentle fossil]

odroid n2+ or similar

[sudden moth]

@boreal oar, sorry for late reply... just about any zigbee or z-wave light switch will work as they just allow power to flow, I use the Leviton Z-Wave light switches, personally. They are more expensive but I know the leviton brand is known for making electrical circuits. I try not to go with a brand I've never heard of until I read reviews on them or test them for myself. I heard good things about the GE devices as well. You could always go a cheaper route and use a WiFi Shelly switch to accomplish the same thing but won't have the light switch to make the outlet work. Additionally, Leviton, TP-Link, and a few others make outlets that are controllable, which may be an option. I hope this answered your question.

[sudden moth]

You could get Oracle Virtualbox and run it on a spare computer (an older laptop perhaps?). That's what I do. Much faster than a RPI.

[gentle fossil]

also a lot more power hungry than a pi

[pearl glade]

If I understand correctly then this could be an old windows laptop running Home Assistant OS on virtual box

[sudden moth]

Abspolutely

Absolutely*

It doesn't have to be anything super powerful, just enough to get it running. Plug in your Zigbee/Z-Wave receiver to the USB, make sure the USB is routed to the virtual machine, and start building your network.

[pearl glade]

I’ve heard SD cards on a pi are considerably less reliable too. I’d like to set up something for the long run

[gentle fossil]

depends on your usage. sd cards can be reliable if you don‘t constantly write to them. they are not made for this (there even are cards suited to 24/7 surveillance)
any storage medium will wear off with time

[sudden moth]

I don't know about unreliable or less reliable, I just decided to do this after the RPI took >2 hours before being available and lagging every time I tried to do anything with it.

[gentle fossil]

plus a lot of pi users undervolt their pi with improper psus, which will in turn make the likelihood of the sd card to fail really high

[sudden moth]

I can't drop a picture here for you to see how to capture the USB device... but it's very easy to do.

[gentle fossil]

my pi4 runs the same as a full fledged i7,
there is no difference speed wise if you dont care about the speed of startup being a minute

and i have over 900 entities

[sudden moth]

TBH, I would get a PI 4 to run it on, but they are sold out EVERYWHERE... so I decided to drop a virtual machine on my home server.

[pearl glade]

Maybe I’ll wait the extra month or two for them to get back in stock

[sudden moth]

The PI4 is supposed to be a lot faster than the PI3, which I have now, but I can't get my hands on one.

[pearl glade]

I’m familiar with Pi more than virtual machines

[sudden moth]

You could always get the Oracle Virtualbox and start building your network now, then get a backup and move it to the new PI when you get it.

I don't believe there is a difference between a virtual box and a PI as HA gives you the HDD image for both.

[pearl glade]

I imagine backing up that would be a relatively simple task? Then I could even dip my toes into Home Assistant without any financial investment

[gentle fossil]

if you want to go the extra mile then ditch haos and go #449717345808547842 on a linux host. way less demanding than a vm and much more flexible

[sudden moth]

They both boot, they both come up with the HA screen, and they both allow you to go to homeassistant.local:8123 when it's ready. I didn't notice a difference except the speed at which the boot is. When I started getting into the Home Assistant stuff, I was fortunate enough to already have a server to put it on, I gave it 4 virtual CPUs and 32GB Ram (very much overkill). it has been lightning quick for everything I've needed.

Backing it up is extremely simple, it's literally just a click on the backup screen.

[pearl glade]

What’s the differences between the container and the os?

[sudden moth]

I can't help with this one, I know nothing about Linux

[gentle fossil]

os runs 10 containers for the whole shebang

you only really need 1

which is homeassistant_container

[pearl glade]

Yup that went over my head haha. Virtual box or raspberry pi might be what I go for

[gentle fossil]

os is for people who dont want to invest some time to learn some docker and makes it easy to try it out

[sudden moth]

wow

[pearl glade]

If I was willing to learn what kind of benefits would I get? Less power usage, faster speeds etc.?

[gentle fossil]

less power, less performance needed, you can customize to your liking (mount your nas to the container for example and much more..) and it‘s a single folder you need to backup

[boreal oar]

Thanks. You mention just about any light switch will work, but the Zooz ones I just bought specifically say not to put them on a receptacle. It seems the reason is the load could be 15 amps on a receptacle, and the switches aren't designed for that. They have one they recommend, which is a 2 button, but it's intended for ceiling fans where there's a light/fan combo, which isn't what I need

[sudden moth]

@boreal oar, what about something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW15R-1BW-Resistant-Required-Assistant/dp/B088P5LSD4/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2FUWJLCE9FO4Y&keywords=Leviton+smart+outlet&qid=1641776288&sprefix=leviton+smart+outlet%2Caps%2C51&sr=8-5

There is a controlled outlet on it, but it's not zigbee or zwave, it's WiFi

[boreal oar]

thanks, but my trouble is that the outlet is a gfi

so trying to avoid replacing it

[sudden moth]

ahhh. gotcha

What are you trying to put through that outlet?

Will it draw more than 15 amps? That's a pretty hefty load.

If it's on a 15 amp breaker, the breaker should trip if it goes above 15 amps. I've never had a problem with a device on an outlet being connected to a smart switch.

[boreal oar]

its a light load, but the point is that since the receptacle is capable of 15a, and a typical user would feel like they could put 15a on it, and the device specifically says it can't handle that kind of load, and not to do it...

so even though i know i wouldn't put more load on it than it can handle, it'd still be unsafe

[sudden moth]

Leviton's smart switch says this specifically...

RATINGS
• Incandescent - 1800W - 120VAC, 60Hz
• LED/CFL - 5A, 600W - 120VAC, 60Hz
• Fluorescent - 15A - 120VAC, 60Hz;
8A - 277VAC, 60Hz
• Resistive - 15A - 120VAC, 60Hz
• Motor - 1/2 HP - 120VAC, 60Hz

That is for their DZ15S-1BZ switch

I just found this as well @boreal oar, it's a "Smart Outdoor Switch with GFCI and Smart Outlet" https://www.cepro.com/product/smart-outdoor-switch-with-gfci-and-smart-outlet/

Made by Legrand

[boreal oar]

yeah there you go, on the leviton, seems most switches are rated for 8a

and thanks for finding the outlet, but i really want it as a switch, because otherwise people will turn off the switch and cut power to the outlet

[sudden moth]

The legrand looks way different than they were advertising... I would look into the Leviton switches.

[boreal oar]

i will, i didn't realize the 15a resistive load there

[sudden moth]

I've never had a bad experience with Leviton products.

[sinful tree]

Hey All,
Looking at getting 2 smart plugs with energy monitoring to monitor a washing machine and dryer (separate plugs).
Details:
Location: Australia
Washing machine: LG front loader 8kg (model WD1408NPW)
Dryer: LG Front Loader 8kg (model TD-C80NPW)
Connection: prefer wifi

[sudden moth]

Is the dryer gas or electric?

[boreal oar]

is there a good integration for them, HoleDozer

i've tried to avoid wifi stuff

[sinful tree]

electric

from the "compliance plate" it looks like max draw is 2100w on both

[sudden moth]

Nicesocks, I'm using Z-Wave and integrated with HomeAssistant using the AEOTEC Z-Stick Gen 5.

[boreal oar]

oh you mean there's z-wave versions of the leviton switches?

[sudden moth]

nicesocks, absolutely, Z-Wave, WiFi, and Bluetooth

[boreal oar]

hmm so maybe it is just zooz that can't handle outlets

[sudden moth]

possibly, I've never used the zooz switches. The Leviton are more expensive (roughly $50/ea) but I've never had problems with them.

[sudden moth]

Do you own the washer/dryer already or are you going to purchase them?

[sinful tree]

own already, too new to replace

[sudden moth]

I understand that, I wasn't going to suggest replacing them 😄 What voltage are they running?

[sinful tree]

240

[sudden moth]

Both of them?

[sinful tree]

yeah, AU standard is 240 for everything

[sudden moth]

Gotcha... 2100 watts comes out to roughly 10 amps at the 240v conversion. It sounds like you're not using natural gas, is that correct?

[sinful tree]

no gas, other than after mexican

[sudden moth]

There is a "Heavy duty" switch made by AEOTEC capable of switching up to 40 amps at 220/240v (Mainly used for vehicle charging but could be used for anything really). It does power monitoring as well.

[sinful tree]

would that require replacing the existing powerpoint or is it a plug-in?

[sudden moth]

https://aeotec.com/outdoor-z-wave-switch/index.html

It's not a plugin, although you could wire up a plug and receptacle to it and plug in the washer/dryer.

[sinful tree]

looks like the Smart Switch 6 could also work (AU 260V, Max: 14A, 3640W )

[sudden moth]

I saw that one, but it says that is under "discontinued products"

[sinful tree]

still around for us backward people downunder

[sudden moth]

haha, understandable, if you can get it, give it a shot.

https://www.smarthome.com.au/aeotec-z-wave-plug-in-smart-switch-6.html?___SID=U?utm_source=Aeotec-com&utm_medium=jpg&utm_campaign=w2b

[boreal oar]

@sudden moth im going to have to look at those levitons more closely. The zooz seems to have similar ratings, but still says not to use with a receptacle:

Important: Make sure your light fixture is within the ZEN23's specifications. The maximum load ratings for the ZEN23 are 150W for LED and CFL bulbs, 960W for incandescent lighting, and 1800W (15A) for resistive loads, or 3A for ceiling or exhaust fans (motor load only, not fan and lights at the same time). The ZEN23 toggle CANNOT be used to control a receptacle.

[sudden moth]

Is the ZEN23 a dimmer?

Doesn't appear to be, looks like on/off

[upper yoke]

i got a sengled light strip today. it paired easily in HAS using zigbee. it doesn't seem to change colors or turn off/on when i issue those commands, though. any idea why? https://i.imgur.com/LpKUSXt.png only shows two entities..

[sudden moth]

Sorry Tony, I am not familiar with that device so I can't help you with that one.

[boreal oar]

Yeah just an on off, i actually have the 76, which is newer and light on documentation right now

[sudden moth]

nicesocks, what about the Aeotec nano switch? https://aeotec.com/z-wave-outlet-socket/index.html It says specifically it can control outlets and you can connect a switch to it (although it has to be their wall switch). It is a Z-Wave device and can control up to 15 amps.

[boreal oar]

yeah i've looked at those before. i'm not convinced they're that small to stuff in a box. But i'll still check out the levitons

[sudden moth]

It is also Z-Wave compatible... I have one and they are pretty small... not sure if you've use the Shelly devices but they're about the same size.

If you got the wall switch to go with it, they attach to the back side of the switch and are no bigger than a smart switch.

[boreal oar]

so in that situation you wire it in to the Switch box instead of the receptacle's box?

[sudden moth]

The only thing about it, you won't have the same switch type, their switch is a touch style switch.

Correct, you could wire it directly in the switch box

[boreal oar]

the leviton switches, are they like regular rocker switches?

the zooz ones look like rockers, but don't actually physicall switch

[sudden moth]

The Leviton switch is a paddle "decora" switch

[boreal oar]

so when you turn it on, it actually stays depressed in that position?

[sudden moth]

no, it pops back to center

but up is on and down is off like a regular switch

[boreal oar]

okay yeah that's like the zooz then

i guess they're all like that for these smart switches

[sudden moth]

yup

[boreal oar]

I"ve got an email in to zooz for further clarification. I bought 4 switches and 2 can't do what i planned

[sudden moth]

I just sent you a DM with 3 pics to show the size of the AEOTEC nano switch

it's pretty small

[willow kiln]

Anyone doing irrigation through home assistant? Wondering what hardware is being used

[gentle fossil]

i use the eve aqua valve, works fine for the few pot plants i have

[hollow lance]

A Sonoff 4CH Pro R3 running esphome

Connected to a bunch of solenoid valves

Pretty sure there’s still an open thread in this channel with two links I followed to build mine

I didn’t include the nextion display, I just commented out those sections of the config

[modern ginkgo]

That reminds me, I want to try and hook up my rainpoint to HA if possible

Looks possible with the Tuya Smart app

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/tuya-irrigation-hardware-rain-point-problems-with-integration/212069/13

Seems like the same exact interface as the stock app

And automatically pops up in HA

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tuya/

Then follow this

[modern ginkgo]

Hmm well I got far but the IoT platform doesn't list my added devices

Got it, had to change from eastern to western in the IoT page

Because thats what the default is for US

That fixed both devices showing up and the HA login

[modern ginkgo]

Anyone know of a HA electrical monitoring system? A unit like sense

[fossil verge]

I have 3 Aqara temp/humidity/pressure sensors that reflect diffferent humidity values when placed right next to each other. Right now, they read 32%, 29.4%, and 27.3%. I have removed and re-added them multiple times, but the issue persists. What's the best way to manually adjust/recalibrate those values so that they are inline? I see templates referenced for similar issues, but I'd prefer not to create additional devices in the environment if I can help it.

[placid bronze]

Hi 🙂 I'm looking for smart thermostat suggestions. My place is a bit older and doesn't have a C-wire so I'd be looking for something battery powered.

[winged knoll]

Depends on how you've integrated them really

[fossil verge]

C-wire adapters are easy to add and would allow you a lot more/better options.

[winged knoll]

If that's ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT or deCONZ see #zigbee-archived

If that's the Xiaomi hub see #integrations-archived

[fossil verge]

Yep, via deconz. Thank you! (yeah.. it's not deconz... I was thinking of my HS3 environment. This is connected directly to my Conbee II stick).

[placid bronze]

Hmm, I just rent though so I'm not even sure if I'm allowed. Plus I'm not looking for anything fancy. I'm looking to control everything via HA

I'm not familiar with electronics, but I think like literally all the functionality I need is that of like a switch, right?

[fossil verge]

Yeah, renting does limit your options. Can you take a pic of the wires available behind your current thermostat? Also, is your current system driving both heat and AC?

[placid bronze]

I actually only have heat. I think it's forced air? I remember my landlord saying something about that

Just grabbed a pic!

[fossil verge]

Yeah, you'll want to have a more clear idea of what your needs are before you get to the point of buying hardware. Some newer HVAC systems do use variable power (rather than just on/off), but that may be unlikely if your system is heat only.

[placid bronze]

https://i.imgur.com/et2w4VU.jpg

[gentle fossil]

looks like you are good with a temperature sensor and a switch?

theres only 2 cables, the temperature has to be read by the panel i believe

[placid bronze]

I actually already have temperature smart temperature sensors in my house. So if I'll be controlling it all through HA then all I need is the switch, right?

But wouldn't the switch need a power source? Like I wouldn't be able to use a Shelly 1 or Sonoff Basic, right?

[gentle fossil]

yes you only need the switch and it needs its own power source also

[fair dagger]

Lighting - anyone have a strong view on whether to consider shelly for lighting vs like caseta and/or z-wave? I have robust wifi and can put all shelly devices on a separate vlan.

[placid bronze]

Ok thank you so much! Do you have any personal recommendations for a battery powered switch? (If that's even a thing?)

[gentle fossil]

i guess you don‘t want a battery powered switch. turning it on and leaving it in the on state will drain the battery quick

you could however look up the switchbot and maybe attach it to the panel

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0335/7333/9269/files/asset_157739_image_big_3bc43a57-9719-4a50-a0fe-32f654112a6e.gif?v=1597587503

[placid bronze]

Ohh hmm and just have it turn on and off based on temperature?

[gentle fossil]

yes

[placid bronze]

That's a good idea, though the on off button on mine is sorta like on the bottom so I'm not sure how well that would work 😕

I guess I figured the battery powered switch would only need power to switch on/off

[sleek parrot]

Guys will be Intel Pentium Gold G6405 or Intel Celeron G6900 more power efficient for my HA + some docker containers home server?

[gentle fossil]

I would go with the gold, the celeron might be more futureproof with pcie 5 but you won't win races with any of them so the upgrades might hit different bottlenecks

[modern otter]

threadripper!

[karmic cargo]

This may be the right place... Does anyone know if Adaptive Lighting will work with a Shelly Dimmer (to dim all the bulbs attached to the relay), or will it only work with a smart bulb?

[fringe moon]

It will work with any light entity

[karmic cargo]

And, since the Shelly is a switch entity, that'd be a no?

[gentle fossil]

switches only know two states

[fringe moon]

It should have a light entity too I guess

I have no shelly dimmer installed atm

Have four in boxes

[karmic cargo]

I've only got a Shelly1, and it's listed as a switch only. Of course, it's not a dimmer, so there could be other entities it exposes.

[fringe moon]

That will be a switch only

Logically

[broken flower]

Hi! Usb is currently not supported. By "local" a KnxIP interface in the local network is meant.
You can use knxd - there is a forum thread and afaik an HaOS addon for this.
Soon it will also be possible to use Calimero as proxy instead.
And there is even someone working on native usb support https://github.com/XKNX/xknx/issues/581

[karmic cargo]

Well, if you decide to get one of those dimmers installed this evening, ping me with the results! 🤣

[fringe moon]

Probably in early February

[karmic cargo]

I'd still be very happy with a ping, even then, to let me know.

[fringe moon]

[quick girder]

Thank you @broken flower .
After some moere research I found a knxd plug-in in the forum. I will try out the next days.

[sleek parrot]

I am quite happy with pi but recently it crashes due to ram probably. My priority is power efficienci and I though the celeron might eat less. Anyway I already ordered pentium :)

[gentle fossil]

pi > pentium

[winged knoll]

They're still making new ones, those are quite different to the old Pentiums

Somewhere I still have one that overheated "a little" 🤔

[gentle fossil]

eh, I cannot leave my mission. snitches get stitches

[sleek parrot]

Really, why you think so?

Where are you running ha you guys?

[winged knoll]

On a spare Cray in the basement

[hollow lance]

preach!

[gloomy spoke]

I ordered a couch and it came with this supercomputer attached, so why not?

[fringe moon]

The seats are quite good on the Cray

I've sat on worse supercomputers

[winged knoll]

Also, how many computers come with waterfalls... by design anyway

[willow meteor]

Whaddup. i have 2 questions about The Yellow device. Is this were i ask?

where

[hollow lance]

#yellow-archived

Would be the place

[boreal oar]

So I continue to go down the rabbit hole on finding z-wave switches that suit my needs. I've found that Zooz, and Innovelli, seem to use the same basic hardware, which cannot handle and kind of inductive load (can't control a wall outlet or a bathroom fan etc). I've found that GE, Enbrighten, Ultra pro (all are Jasco), can handle these kinds of loads (and have a nifty line/load auto sense), but they do not have a configurable parameter of "state after power failure", which I need because we have lots of power outages and I hate waking up in the night to random lights coming on as power is restored.

So is anyone aware of a zwave light switch (N.A.), that has advanced config features and can also handle motor and outlet loads?

I'd also prefer 700 series over 500

[sudden moth]

@boreal oar, It appears the Aeotec Nano switch is going to be your best option. It specifically states on their website that it can control an outlet, it's Z-Wave, and can be set to "always off" after power being restored.

[boreal oar]

thx hole, i think even their actual rocker switches may be suitable

have you experience with them?

I think the nano device is about $70 for me, whereas a switch is more like $50-$60

[sudden moth]

I do, I have a couple of them.

Like I said, they have dry contacts so you would need to put the line into the line and the "in" port. then to your outlet, send it to the "out"

[boreal oar]

The nano is the behind the wall device, right? I'm asking if you have experience with the rocker switches "illumino"? unless that's what you're referring to regarding the dry contact?

[sudden moth]

I have no experience with the "Illumino" switch... I did see it last night but have never touched it. The Nano switch would be either behind the wall switch or behind the outlet, depending on where you mount the nano switch

[boreal oar]

yeah i think i'm going to avoid those. I like the added benefit i get from a switch that i can double tap, or triple tap, etc., plus they're costly for me

[sudden moth]

ahh.

[boreal oar]

bah, the deep dive on the aeotec says don't use with fans

but does say its okay for a 1/2 HP motor

guess I'll have to email them

[green pine]

Anybody know anything for measuring tank levels? Tank dimentions are 580mm tall, but its only 90mm thick.

[zealous dune]

ultrasonic distance sensors or level sensors depending on the material of your tank

[green pine]

Its a Poly tank

its going in a car, so needs to be a sealed tank. Lots of the ultrasonic sensors I've seen are like bare circuit boards, so I cant seal it properly

[gentle fossil]

hotglue it into a brick when you are finished

[zealous dune]

https://amzn.to/3r8Hgkz this

or get a bunch of liquid level sensors if you don't need precise measurements https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AKg9xc

[green pine]

liquid level sensors sound like it may be esaier. From what ive seen the ultrasonic sensors arn't the greatest. and I dont need rough levels, even just 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% sensors would do

[hollow lance]

oh interesting

this seems like a much less tedious way of measuring my rainwater tank level

[muted wasp]

hello everyone. i have purchased a house which has one of these flow senors installed before the departure to the irigation system.

https://cdn.kempstoncontrols.com/files/91f57dc75765d78f9990a1631a11cad1/SC440-A4-GSP.pdf

model number:
EGE ELEKTRONIK - SC440-A4-GSP FLOW SENSOR 316 S/S, 1-150CM/S H2O, 3-300CM/S OIL, THREAD G1/2, DC PNP, 4P M12 PLUG, PROBE=30MM

could someone point me in the right direction to have the date from the flow sensor integrate into HA so i can track water usage?

[pearl glade]

Does anyone have a dongle or set of dongles they really like that supports zigbee and z wave?

[bright jacinth]

Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.

Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.

Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.

Command '.pickyourstick' was invoked by: atxbyea

[winged knoll]

There's one North America dongle that does both - and both sides use an older chipset

[pearl glade]

Is an older chipset better? I saw the HUSBZB-1 high recommended but decided not too because it was an older generation

[fringe moon]

Older is seldom better

Especially in technology

[winged knoll]

It's highly recommended by those that don't know any better

[fringe moon]

11/9 people who have problems with their ZigBee network recommend this stick

[zealous dune]

Vintage is cool

[pearl glade]

Alright so it sounds like stay away from old garbage

[sharp owl]

Any recommendations for a outdoor temperature sensor capable to withstand Canadian winters?

[gentle fossil]

hue outdoor motion sensors have a temp sensor integrated, specified for -20°C, but ofc canada can get <-30°

had -30something a year ago for 2-3 nights here, no trouble so far

[sharp owl]

Hmm cool I’ll check em out . I was thinking of possible going the probe route as well and keeping batteries inside.

[fringe moon]

I use Xiaomi outdoor

In my greenhouse the temperature can reach 45 in summer

And in winter we have -30

Haven't had more than -15 so far this winter

But they work fine

[sharp owl]

Nice I might give that a shot

[fringe moon]

I have the door sensor currently running fine outdoors

And the single press button

[sudden moth]

@pearl glade, the only thing I've heard about the HUSBZB-1 from Nortek is you can't use the S2 authentication/security protocol with it. It would require a "very technical" firmware update to support the S2 security (this, of course, is if you are going to use it for Z-Wave as well as Zigbee). I don't know if they've started shipping with the newer firmware but that would be something to look into if you're trying to use it for Z-Wave as well.

[pearl glade]

I think I’m going to find a good, supported adapter for each zigbee and zwave. All of my current devices are WiFi so I may end up just picking zigbee OR zwave and purchasing switches and sensors around that.

I took your advice the other day and set this up on an unused laptop for the time being. I’m hooked and can’t wait to expand this once I close on my house

[fringe moon]

ZigBee > zwave is my opinion

More devices, cheaper

[winged knoll]

I like both, but I love the Sensative strips

[pearl glade]

Are the compatibility issues there like I’ve seen on forums or is that just people blowing smoke

It’s sounding to me like it’s not worth having both

[winged knoll]

See #zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived

But without knowing what you're referring to...

[pearl glade]

Fair enough. I had originally wanted to build a raspberry pi hub that was all things compatible but it seems more logical to find the devices I want and build my hub to that list.

[winged knoll]

Well, that's what HA is

You add a #zigbee-archived stick and now you can use Zigbee devices

Then you add a #zwave-archived stick, and so on

[sudden moth]

I have the Z-Wave stick from Aeotec already, so that's what I'm building around... I do need to get a Zigbee stick because all of my current devices aren't Z-Wave (water sensors, motion detectors, open/close sensors, etc...) so I will need to integrate both Zs in my system.

[winged knoll]

I have both, it does complicate things slightly, but that's the fun

[pearl glade]

So instead of picking products based on the standard, you pick based on other qualities. And in HA the standard won’t make much of a difference once it’s configured.

[winged knoll]

Well, you pick based on HA's ability to support it

https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2016/02/12/classifying-the-internet-of-things/#classifiers

Local > Cloud
Push > Poll

Zigbee and Z-Wave will always win over random WiFi junk

[zealous dune]

cough Tuya cough

[vocal crest]

Hi everyone. I’m considering putting my Nuc which the coordinator is attached to in my network room (to be built so can’t test now), which is in the corner of the house. It should still have routers near it but now there will be more walls separating them, is that expected to have a major impact?

[winged knoll]

Zigbee, or Z-Wave?

[vocal crest]

Zigbee

[winged knoll]

Then you want the #zigbee-archived channel

[orchid socket]

Hey, can someone help me with UDP?

[bright jacinth]

@orchid socket Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.

When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:

1. What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
2. What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
3. Is the problem uniform or erratic?
4. What's the exact error message?
5. When did it arise?
6. What exactly don't you "get"?
7. Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?

Command '.ask' was invoked by: Tinkerer

[orchid socket]

Puh… i want to recieve udp packets in my node red integration in homeassistant. I want to get the ring from my doorbird-doorbell. i can see the udp broadcast from my doorbird with wireshark. But in node red nothing happens, i think i have to forward the port to the node red container in homeassistant os, but i cant find a docker compose file or anything else… how to get this working?

[winged knoll]

#node-red-archived is likely the channel you're looking for

[orchid socket]

okay, thank u

[sudden moth]

Has anyone used the HS-FLS100-G2 in their HA setup? I'm looking for an outdoor motion detector and this one seems promising.

[winged knoll]

The folks in #zwave-archived may

[brave hazel]

Hello - is this the right spot for questions about Google assistant?

[winged knoll]

Well, if you're looking for general support with Google Assistant, this isn't the Discord server for you

If you mean in Home Assistant then you wanted the #voice-assistants-archived channel

[brave hazel]

With regards to nabu casa

Ok

[winged knoll]

Then you wanted #cloud-archived

[brave hazel]

Okay, thanks...I see that now

Thanks!

[main ivy]

I have a small portable radiator that says the max current draw is 13.5 AMPS. The Sonoff S31 says it can handle 15 AMPS. Do I need to be concerned about the Watts draw of 1500?

[glossy prism]

Something drawing 13.5A @ 120V is using 1620W (assuming a power factor of 1, but we won't get into that), not 1500W. It's not ideal to run a load for extended periods that close to the relay rating, but I also wouldn't say it's unsafe. Is the circuit it's on only rated for 15A? I'd be concerned about a breaker tripping on that circuit if there are other significant loads on it

Is there a low setting on the radiator? Oftentimes space heaters will have different load levels such as 900W on low and 1500W on high

[sudden moth]

When you factor electricity you should factor by 125% of the rated load (of everything on the circuit because you SHOULD only load breakers to 80% of rated capacity) when running a circuit. I would say the max current draw of 13.5 amps is the start up initial inrush of current into the device and possibly while it's heating but they don't generally pull "max amperage" all the time. I have a portable heater and it's pulling a constant 12 amps when I have it on high but it's not an oil filled radiator. Most heaters are rated at 1500 watts or 12.5 amps on high (as Tediore has stated).

By your calculations, you're saying this device should be on a 30 (or 40) amp circuit which is overkill. At 30 amps you would need to run a 10awg wire to the outlet. Then the outlet would have to have a special connector (rated for 30 amps, generally a twist lock, and a beefy plug to plug it in) until you get up to 50 amps, which they have regular straight plugs but they are pretty big.

Here is a video I found that would be good for Marty to look at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xo_xUJvj9jQ

It goes into calculations for the wattage.

[boreal oar]

marty, that's a safe load and combo. Your heater has a plug on the end for plugging into 15amp rated sockets. Your outlet will be connected to a 15amp breaker. The sonoff expects all that and is also rated 15amp

[boreal oar]

if your heater required more than 15amp it'd have a 20amp plug on the end, or 30a or whatever

[timber sonnet]

any idea where i can get a usb coral?

[storm oyster]

Guys is there anywhere where i can check what the difference bwtween all the esp32 versions is? I am trying to understand which one i should buy to use for my project and keep finding new versions and different prices!

[winged knoll]

#diy-archived likely has that in the history somewhere, and if not somebody there can probably answer.

[tepid heart]

This is a really good one at a reasonable price: https://quinled.info/quinled-esp32-specifications/

[oak thicket]

bought two aqara temperature sensors, one is at 100% still after 1 week the other is already at 86%

any ideas why this happens ?

the one with 86% got a way better connection

in the zigbeemesh

[zealous dune]

have you measured the battery voltage between the two?

[oak thicket]

not yet

will do it when i am home

[smoky drum]

hi hope someone can help me I have an Odroid N2 + that works perfectly with Home assistant. I use this chassis https://odroid.se/collections/odroid-cases/products/kksb-odroid-n2-case-black for it it also has a button so you can turn it on and off but I do not understand how to make it work with my Home assistant, on the page I linked to there is a link to a page showing how to do if you run with desktop linux, but do not know how to do it on Home assistant, it is the same motherboard used in the Home assistant blue box

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0248/6557/0909/files/Assembly_instruction_KKSB_N2_case.pdf?v=1624898475

[winged knoll]

You'd want to ask in the #330990055533576204 channel

[jade agate]

would there be any reason a Deconz Conbee could prevent correct restart/reboot a Rpi3? 5 out of 10 times this happens, and its an almost empty config, only used for MQTT traffic, and 1! light test light connected to Z2M. Tried various usb ports, but that doesnt seem to matter (and yes, its on a usb cable extension)

[gentle fossil]

failure to boot?

connect a monitor

usb initialization happens relatively late in boot, initializing the device itself even later. at this point the OS should long be online

[jade agate]

well, I dont think it really shuts down. seems a bit like the backport power feed issue on powered usb hubs where power prevents the RPi to properly shutdown. though in this case there is no power.... so its a bit of a miracle, but rather a persistent one.

[gentle fossil]

📺 will tell you

[jade agate]

yeah, will do next time it happens, thanks!

[gentle fossil]

thats not gonna work

pi only outputs hdmi when hdmi is plugged in on boot

[jade agate]

o right, a bit of a catch 22 then.... pluggedin And powered I take it? ....

[fringe moon]

Yes

Imagine having a machine with a useable output

[gentle fossil]

just reboot it a couple times, according to your description it should pop up

[jade agate]

yep, will do. thanks

just so I can copy useful logs, which component should I set in logger for the usb devices?

[winged knoll]

The Pi is fine, it's HAOS that's the problem

[lofty umbra]

I have a question regarding a USB device that is used to monitor power in the netherlands

[winged knoll]

https://dontasktoask.com/

[gentle fossil]

really? I remember seeing no output on raspbian too for ever now if you don't have it plugged in on boot

i mean, there is tvservice to turn it on.. but haos misses that I guess

[winged knoll]

I've almost never booted a Pi with the monitor connected, it's always connected later

[gentle fossil]

it's been a while since i connected a monitor but I will check that next time 👍

[fringe moon]

I've never gotten a display on my raspbian os either, with hdmi

With composite I think I did

Always had to reboot with hdmi

[gentle fossil]

maybe full raspberry os behaves different than os lite ? which one did you use tinkerer?

I never once dared to use the full os 😄

[fringe moon]

Full os 🤢

[signal glade]

I am running full HAOS on the raspberry pi compute module 4 and the usb ports aren't working I don't know how to enable them in HAOS

[high lake]

I'm wanting to extend my zigbee mesh over a hill. I can go around the hill or over the top. The ultimate goal is to put a motion sensor inside a shipping locker to get notifications when it is opened.

Does anyone have recommendations for this? My intention was to put a Philips Hue motion sensor in the box.

[gentle fossil]

#zigbee-archived

[gentle fossil]

can you get the output of dmesg and .share it ?

[bright jacinth]

Please use a code share site to share code or logs, for example:

• https://www.codepile.net/ (select YAML as the language)
• https://paste.debian.net/ (select YAML as the language)
• https://hastebin.com/ (sometimes may not allow you to save)

Please don't use Pastebin, since it can randomly add spaces to the main view. Please also don't share text as images since it makes it harder for people to help you. Remember that others may have colour blindness, impaired vision, etc.

Command '.share' was invoked by: mstone

[gentle fossil]

preferrably in #330990055533576204

[regal light]

I am running HA OS and recently switched to Zigbee2mqtt (HA add-on) and it seems like devices are taking forever to connect after a boot of the OS (pi3). Devices connected quickly using ZHA, but now only the closest device seems to connect straight after reboot? Am i too impatient?

[winged knoll]

#zigbee-archived can likely advise you better

[regal light]

ok thanks

[signal glade]

https://www.toptal.com/developers/hastebin/etejocolor.yaml

[gentle fossil]

what board is this?

might be worth creating a forum post about it, seems like there is no serial bus detected

your options are limited to run whatever os is supported with that board and use a docker install of ha in the meantime

[rain burrow]

Any way to get my wyze motion sensors working with home assistant again? The integration appears to be dead and I’ve got 5+ working sensors that are useless at this point

[pallid brook]

What’s the difference between the lutron caseta hubs with home assistant local integration?

[raw sapphire]

The regular Lutron Caseta Hub works with the standard default integration. There is a custom integration, lutron-caseta-pro that works only with the Pro version of the hub. In my opinion, if you can get the pro version of the hub, you should in case you need a custom integration with other services (e.g., Alarm.com).

[oak thicket]

Looking for a new router/modem germany eu

My 10 year old died

[zealous dune]

it lived a long and happy life

[fringe moon]

Any minicomputer from the last 10 years

Running opnsense

With 2 NICs or more

[oak thicket]

I want it plug and play like the fritzbox

[fringe moon]

🤢

[oak thicket]

Feel ya

[pallid brook]

Got it thanks! The price is an extra $100 which I’m not sure if that all makes it worth it for the custom integration

[sonic frost]

does anyone know if there's a shelly 2.5 zigbee alternative? I only see for light switches and that would probably not work with 2 way shutter motor

[sudden moth]

What are you trying to do?

You're trying to connect shutters?

[molten gate]

Hi! I have a ton of ESPHome controlled devices with some running through node red and others not. The ESPHome firmware seems to be upgraded on a pretty regular schedule and ESPHome reports the available devices as 'upgradable'. In order to do the upgrade, each device is selected in turn and it's firmware is compiled and uploaded over the air. With some 40 or more devices, this takes a substantial amount of time. I am wondering if there is a mechanism to select multiple ESPHome devices to upgrade them in a batch mode rather than to compile and upload the firmware one at a time.

[bright jacinth]

ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.

You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.

Command '~esphome' was invoked by: Tinkerer

[winged knoll]

I'd ask them on their Discord, or over in #diy-archived

[molten gate]

Thanks, didn't know they had their own channel.

[winged knoll]

It is mentioned in the channel topic, but so few people even know they exist...

[void moth]

anybody successfully add a DS3231 to a rpi ?

Need to keep the clock functional even without internet

[winged knoll]

If you're running HAOS then you probably can't

[void moth]

Even if I add the requierement into the config file ?

[winged knoll]

Sure, if it has the required kernel modules available

[void moth]

I've read few post on this, but none of the solution seems to work on my hardware. Was hoping to find answer here.

[sonic frost]

I want to connect shutters indeed. i have a rotating switch that has 3 positions, let shutters down/ neutral/ bring shutters up. i see shelly 2.5 is up for a task, but can't find what would do same thing through ZigBee instead of wi-fi

[winged knoll]

You'd be better off asking in #330990055533576204 to find out what is supported

[umbral gorge]

I got a problem with Aquara smart Plug. I have accidentally changed min_rep_interval on my Aquara power plug to 0 and now Im unable to change it back because everytime I try to enter a new value it resets to 0 before I have a chance to change it.
I tried reseting device end deleting it from my network but Im unable to add it back, when I enter pairing mode diode blinks extremly fast and nothing happens

[winged knoll]

And ... how did you integrate that into HA?

[umbral gorge]

O right, ZigBee2MQTT

[winged knoll]

Then clearly this is the wrong channel

[bright jacinth]

The topic of this channel is:

There's a channel for #yellow-archived if you have questions about it.

Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).

If you have problems with the Blue see #330990055533576204. If your install isn't responding then see your install method channel above.

If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.

Please use https://www.codepile.net/ or https://paste.debian.net/ to share code or logs

Command '.topic' was invoked by: Tinkerer

[winged knoll]

You'd be wanting to ask about that over in the #zigbee-archived channel

[umbral gorge]

But right now I believe have problem with hardware, also I asked the same before on zigbee channel

[winged knoll]

🤔

And, are you going to get out a soldering iron to fix the hardware, or try and fix it through the software?