#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 128 of 1
and im looking at the 16a ones not the 10a onesw
ce certification is as meaningless as zigbee certification
if its a cheap chinese device divide A by 2 to be safe
whe you have worked with these, what are some of the internals that you have seen?
question too broad
lets say a sonoff mini vs a QS-WIFI-S05 or a athom
switch module
these look just like an athom and say 16a
the difference is in the relay rating
then you have the variable thickness of the mains traces as well as heating concerns depending on the hardware design
if you'er controlling lights you should be fine
if its something with a motor... ymmv 🔥
all lights
but wanted to see if anyone knew if they had tasmota support dont want anything going out of the house
oh ok
😦
anything else i can do?
what chips do they usually have?
im gonna order 1 and take it apart i guess and confirm quality and what they come with
other chips
if you're planning on a large enough order go to alibaba and have them made to your spec
lol it was more of a budget thing i wanted to spend around $60 US so 10 of these tuyas vs 5 sonoff etc
there's always the tuya integration, seems to be popular these days
any links to videos or posts?
of the tuya integration?
yup
i don't use it
the only stuff ive seen is with tuya going to clud
cloud,
wanted to make sure all traffic is internal
localtuya
ok np i really appreciate you help!!
Hi!
I'm having issues binding two aqara wireless remote switches. I was able to bind one but due to an issue I have to rebind evetything after deleting a file.
Do you know how to reset the devices and bind it again? I have removed the battery for a few minutes and tried the bind process again (hold two buttons at the same time for about 10 seconds). No luck binding those. Any ideas about what can i do?
Hi folks!
I'm trying to run tuya-convert on an existing tasmota device.
I'm not sure why, but the tasmota is not connecting to wifi.
I can reset it with power cycling
Each time it successfully broadcasts. It says it has 8.5.0 installed.
I am wondering, can I upgrade the tasmota from the initial config screen?
(Once I enter wifi credentials, it seems to connect to the WiFi according to my Unifi dashboard, but then it disappears and the config screen is never accessible)
what exactly are you trying to achieve here?
bought 10 of the linkind light switches from the link on https://templates.blakadder.com/linkind_WS240010008.html looks like they are now shipping a different model, the WS240010108. There is no relay, its now a dimmer with an additional Holtek microcontroller besides the ESP32
There's both a dimmer and a switch, so it looks like you bought the dimmer
yeah, would help if the blakadder page was updated to point here: https://www.digiblur.com/p/linkind-esp32-smart-switch-how-to-flash.html which has an updated firmware for the dimmer
I just picked up a Sonoff S31 ZB smart plug and added it via ZHA. It's already serving as a repeater, and the response time is great. Is it worth selling my lot of TP-Link Kasa smart plugs (WiFi... plus Kasa keeps trying to disable local control with their software updates) and buying a bunch more of these?
Recommendations? looking for a temperature and humidity sensor. Can be zwave or zigbee compatible
I have a bunch of Aqara temp/hum sensors and they're great.
Ordered from AliExpress.
hi yall; trying to convert over from just smartthings/webcore over to home assist. Running into an issue with "LeakSmart Pro Automatic Water Shut-Off Valve" as I can't seem to send it a command to actually shut the value off, just observe whether it's off or on... struggling to find a working integration on the interwebs - can someone help/point in the right direction?
I'm using the aqara ones. They're working okay. I haven't had them long enough to comment on battery life but it seems like they're dropping much quicker than expected.
Would like to pick the collective brain here on home audio. My house has a bunch (15 pairs) of in-wall/in-ceiling speakers and each pair has an old control knob from the 1990s. Very similar to this: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sonance-60w-outdoor-volume-control-in-wall-rotary-each-gray/5683613.p?skuId=5683613
I know the right way to go would be rip it out and put in a nice zoned amp, but realistically, to the best of my research that gets super pricey quickly.
I'm guessing there's no simple way to automate those knobs to effectively achieve zones by cutting volume where I don't want it but I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas.
what are some lights i can use inside of a drawer (battery powered) that turn on when the drawer opens?
A single esp01 or 8266 with a single LED get you far
Does anyone know any individually addressable light strips with IOT class >= local polling?
anything with wled on it
thanks!
DIY DIY
Hello all !
Any differences between the old and new version of TRIDFRY LED Spots and switch ?
I’m thinking about integration with ZigBee2MQTT and availabled features for these both kit bulbblack_square_button:
1️⃣ https://www.ikea.com/fr/fr/p/tradfri-kit-de-reglage-a-distance-spectre-blanc-20495910/ (204.959.10)
2️⃣ https://www.ikea.com/fr/fr/p/tradfri-kit-de-reglage-a-distance-spectre-blanc-00406547/ (004.065.47)
Thanks
Hello. I have a wireless aqara double wall switch. and i cant get it to show up on home assistant. i long pressed, and multiple quick pressed. but it just doesnt show up. am i doing something wrong>
That sounds like #zigbee-archived
Thanks, wasnt sure witch topic to post in
Hello, can someone recommend a rgb bulb that works in Canada, preferably without a additional hub. I used to have yeelights in Europe but they dont support 120v.
Anyone using an Intel NUC for the HA install? If so which one are you using and did you install HAS OS or something else?
Lots of folks have, everything from Celeron (64 bit) upwards has been mentioned, and folks have gone with HAOS or a Linux distro of their choice and Container
Not sure if anyone else saw the update, but the Honeywell T9 thermostat just gained homekit support, and it's works beautifully in HA now. Not only does the thermostat work, but all the individual room sensors work for temperature, humidity AND motion!
Hi everyone, not sure if this is the right place to ask so please guide me if not. I am in the market to upgrade to smart thermostats. Looking for HA compatibility as a key criteria. Also something simple to use, no fancy display required. I plan on handling all of the automation through HA. Are the Google Nest $99 versions any good? I read that Google is no longer allowing dev accounts???
So I tried restarting my Home Assistant app (as I was having trouble logging in) and now all I get is a Error 404: Not Found. Did the restart break my Home Assistant Blue?
unlikely. try #330990055533576204 for help
Anyone able to point me in the right direction for something to control 12v dc led lights. Preferably with dimming capabilities. It is for my rv so the ability to still use the wall switch would be a huge plus. I see tons of 120v ac stuff but can't seem to find anything for 12v DC.
I think most LED controllers are 12v.
Yeah, I'm just not sure what all will work with HA and still allow the wall switch to operate as normal. There is a company that makes an rv specific module but 1. It is over $100 per module (only controls 1 light and 1 slide or jack per module) 2. Has no HA integration.
@gentle crescent posted a code wall, it is moved here --> https://hastebin.com/otucuxepoy
oops, new here. Send code as a separate post it seems.
Anyone had issues with Thermostats showing the decimal place in the wrong spot. My new one is showing 2.1C instead of 21C
I have this one also which shows the correct temp.
anyone got any experience with TRVs and could they recommend one ?
Hi!
I'm having issues binding two aqara wireless remote switches. I was able to bind one but due to an issue I have to rebind evetything after deleting a file.
Do you know how to reset the devices and bind it again? I have removed the battery for a few minutes and tried the bind process again (hold two buttons at the same time for about 10 seconds). No luck binding those. Any ideas about what can i do?
Sounds like #zigbee-archived
Hi all, I’m having a bit of trouble getting my head around an issue after installing version 2021.10.3. The slimme lezer logs (through ESPHome) is constantly sending exactly the same set of information. Also, I’ve noticed that te log is at debug, whereas the yaml claims info.
Especially the Energy Consumed Tariff 1/2 seem to be static, whereas the Power Consumed Phase 1′ looks to change slightly.
(sorry if I'm "crossposting" via Marcels slimmelezer site)
Would you guys have any tips on where to look?
If the device is sending the information then it's not an HA side problem
Oh yeah, the hint is to refer to the ESPhome discord channel 😉
Does anybody know if it’s possible to split a sonos surround system with the snapshot? I want to only play audio through my beam and not the surround speakers as part of a script
Anyone know if Heatit Z-Dim will work fine even if controller is offline?
Nice stuff they have there. I might be able to use so me of this. This might actually fix one of my pet peeves with this RV, the main cabin light switch is in the control panel behind a door and is not accessible with the livingroom slide in. I wanted a way to cut the main lights on without having to open that door or slide the slide. Looks like I can use a shelly button with some other shelly products. Benefit of tying into HA is a plus!
Anyone have any idea of a way to attach a low power device (ZigBee, z-wave, Bluetooth) to my outdoor trashcan and monitor exactly how far away it is? Basically I want to set up an automation that if it's within 10 feet of my house on trash night, notify me to take it out. Is that even possible?
Hi, I have Home Assistant running on on old Raspberry Pi. I want to move to my newly purchased Home Assistant Blue. I think I want to bring the integrations up one at a time (so that I don't replicate some of the mistakes I made in the initial setup) but want to be able to switch back and forth between both if possible. Eventually even have the old environment as a "test" machine. Can I run two instances of Home Assistant in the same house on two different CPUs?
Hi guys, I'm using a phone as a HA panel. Do you know a way to unlock that phone using an external fingerprint sensor so I'm the only person who can acces it? Or that it's locked when my own phone is not connected to the wifi.
Hi everyone! There are so many conflicting opinions on best smart front door locks (and/or handles) that look sleek but are still reliable and functional. What do you all recommend?
Only prerequisite for me is that it has a stable HomeAssistant integration.
I’m in the US btw
if its for external just make sure they do not use the magnetic switch method, as I can open them with some really strong magnets
I recently got a google device access account for $5
Has anyone tried the drayton wiser devices? Looks like they've released a wet underfloor controller as well
Yes I've seen a few that support tasmota
could you link them or send a model number?
which standard are you looking for?
UK
thanks! your site has everything lol
i'm still waiting for a smart kitchen sink
Put a smart switch on your garbage disposal and solenoids on the feeder lines to your mixer tap
🤷♂️
we don't do garbage disposals...
that would be easy to make, add a solenoid valve with an esp32.
its weird tossing garbage down the sink, here it ends up in floods
They were en vogue here in the 90’s
its easy to make but that's not the issue... its easier to buy one
that's indulgent
@gentle fossil Just a followup! the kit maker sent me a new fan and it's quiet as it was before. So it was just a bad fan. It's a $6 kit fan, so.... probably just low quality...
I came across a device that says tuya convert may not work on new firmware. Is there a way to know if i can flash this device before I buy it?
only if it says serial flash or its already flashed
thanks
Could someone give me the low down on motion sensors? Primarily looking to use them for controlling lights at first at least. I know one of the main problems there is that if you're too still you won't be detected. I've read up on things like room assistant but they seem too complicated for what I'm looking for. In any case, that's where I'm at. Does anyone have any recommendations for motion sensors along these lines?
I've also always been curious about the issue of being still causing the motion detector to not identify you. Couldn't you just turn up the motion detection sensitivity? Or is it more of a hardware limitation where they don't have that fine grained sensitivity?
Well, motion sensors detect motion
You can buy some really sensitive ones, but they cover small areas
I mean unless I'm sleeping I'm moving something
I'm blinking, moving my fingers to type, etc
Blinking is too small a motion
Yes well that's what I'm saying, that would be a hardware limitation, no?
Even moving your fingers may not be enough, unless you have a very carefully positioned high sensitivity sensor
detects small head movements at a distance of 0.5 m, but does not detect to blinking eyes or body movement when breathing calmly
0.5m
That's not much coverage
You're going to be better off building logic to determine if you're still in the room
Yes I know, but I think motion sensors can be a big chunk of that
Sure, but they don't have to detect your fingers
I saw motion in the room, and not outside the room, so the human is in the room until I detect motion outside the room
Yes I understand they don't. That would be the other chunks that like you said I'd have to use some other logic
That's actually a pretty good idea
There's a load of other data points you can use, but it's mostly about not thinking how do I make the motion sensor detect tiny motion and thinking about solving the problem
Maybe you want to use Hass workstation service to allow HA to see the laptop is unlocked, for instance
No no I know, that was more of a side question about how sensitivity works. It seems like you kinda answered it to the general rule that the larger the area the less sensitivity it can have
Yeah exactly, I didn't mean to imply I wasn't going to try to work around the shortcomings. I just wanted to get more of an idea on how motion sensors work
There's also going to be issues with power usage (and so battery life) - the more sensitive you need it to be, the more power that needs, and the shorter the battery life
There are some good articles out there on how they work
https://learn.adafruit.com/pir-passive-infrared-proximity-motion-sensor/how-pirs-work is one of the more general ones
It breaks down the details, which is rather handy
I have rooms with a single dimension no greater than 17ft (~5m) and probably an overall average of 10-12ft (3.5m)
So, break out the logic... can you tell whether somebody is entering or exiting the room, and go from there
Also what's the name for like linear sensors? Like something you could put in a doorway that would detect if someone passed by it?
Hey Tinkerer, wondering if you had any experience or suggestions for a thermostat that works with HA?
Look at the #integrations-archived list and then go from there?
beam sensors I think
Thanks!
Hey folks. Anyone know of any digital photo frames that could remotely grab photos from my local web server (as opposed to a device that requires the use of Google Photos, or some random company cloud).
I don't want to use a tablet, but I'm not opposed to something like a Nest Hub or Echo Show if they offer some way to serve photos from a personal server.
If it matters, this would be for someone in their 70s who isn't terrible with tech, but definitely doesn't want to hassle around with it
Anyone have any idea of a way to attach a low power device (ZigBee, z-wave, Bluetooth) to my outdoor trashcan and monitor exactly how far away it is? Basically I want to set up an automation that if it's within 10 feet of my house on trash night, notify me to take it out. Is that even possible?
whos got the best zwave door sensor for $20 or less that doesnt ship 12 weeks from china?
Anyone have any good recommendations on whole-home energy monitoring that is cloudless and integrates with HA? I'd like to put something in by breaker box that can measure per-circuit.
I'm also interested in this
I tried a few different models, but these have been reliable for me for over a year with pretty decent battery life: https://www.banggood.com/5pcs-SONOFF-SNZB-03-ZB-Motion-Sensor-Handy-Smart-Device-Detect-Motion-Trigger-Alarm-Work-with-SONOFF-ZBBridge-Via-eWeLink-APP-p-1741815.html?akmClientCountry=America&
Pair with a wireless bridge and it was pretty straightforward: https://www.banggood.com/SONOFF-ZBBridge-Smart-Bridge-Zigbee3_0-APP-Wireless-Remote-Controller-Smart-Home-Bridge-Works-With-Alexa-Google-Home-p-1674754.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search
Also I had rolled my own PIR and Microwave motion sensors on a Pi & ESP8266, and have tried out Room Assistant with short-lived success, but these have been more reliable for me.
I would read the RSSI from the raw events of any Zigbee sensor and determine if it is reliable indicator of curb/not-curb based on the last-seen time. Though if no event triggers a packet, this value would most certainly be pretty stale.
Thanks @drowsy kite ! Will check them out
Hi, any recommends for Wifi switch with NO neutral wire?
Are any of you using home assistant to turn on/off your gas logs? I have been looking for a battery operated transmitter / receiver remote set that works with the rmpro and have came up short. All info appreciated. Thanks.
why not zigbee
It's for a friend who's not using HA... He doesn't want to get another Hub just for that..
Is this the place to ask about wiring for a house?
Hi, we are wiring our house from zero, want to make it future proof, so compatible with smart home hardware to be added in a few years.
What are the basics of wiring for light switches, lights, outlets, etc? How do smart lights/relays/etc work? Is there a good starter guide to help with wiring if we now want it to work with simple lightswitch->light method but later would add smart stuff?
The details change around the world, but run neutral to everything
After that it comes down to what you want, being able to decouple lights from switches might be useful, if you want smart bulbs
A smart bulb needs to be powered all the time right? How would it work if I still would like to use the old switches? Are there also stuff I put behind switches that send a signal to HA which controls the light, or can the AC power still be used somehow to control the light?
Yes, and it wouldn't work
You can put a module behind switches to make the switches smart. Some support decoupling the lights, some don't
IMO smart dimmers are better than smart lights, but YMMV
Smart dimmer means I only put new hardware to the switch?
@vast haven Please use imgur or other image sharing web sites, and share the link here.
Image posting is blocked in most channels to discourage people from sharing text as images.
Hello everyone, fast question , I would like to upgrade my xiaomi aquaria connected using HomeKit with a new one.
I know that to connect it to home assistant can be tricky. Which version is the best supported or which one can be easily hacked to get more compatibility? I was looking at this : Xiaomi Aqara Hub Gateway M1S. Any suggestions?
I’m already using conbee 2 with deconz but I would like to still use xiaomi home app as well for few sensors
Hello Everyone, I am looking for heating thermostats to control the individual radiators.
Does anyone here have a recommendation for me? Preferably I would be able to integrate it directly (Zigbee) without having to have another hub.
(Im from Germany)
you're looking for a Radiator Valve?
these ones are popular https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Eurotronic_SPZB0001.html
Hey, thanks. I have an Conbee2 Adapter dir zigbee.
Does I get all information drin the device and can configure it🤔
Traditional wiring and 3 possible smart versions I see.
I guess the best would be to leave the traditional wires between switches and bulbs, then later make the switches smart as you say, or both if I want more functionality like colors and brightness
#zigbee-archived can help you
Are any of you using home assistant to turn on/off your gas logs? I have been looking for a battery operated transmitter / receiver remote set that works with the rmpro and have came up short. All info appreciated. Thanks.
I currently have a transmitter / receiver switch that came with the fireplace. It does not work with boradlink pro. I am looking to replicate with something in 433 or ir space.
My current device is on 350Mhz
I bought on that sait it ran in 315Mhz space but I could not record the code with broadlink.
on = one
I have found this because all I need to do is close a switch ith very low amperage and voltage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZQMQDZ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=psdcmw_573765011_t1_B08F7FFQ14&th=1 but I was curious if anyone else in here has operaded gas logs via home assistant.
Can anybody recommend a CCT dimmer controller that would work with home assistant nicely?
I read that shelly rgb2 developers are working on that feature 2 years ago but could not find any updates.
I've been happy with my Gledopto controller
I've read about them. Do you connect them with ZigBee/their WiFi box/esphome? I'm considering getting the Gledopto honestly but not sure how well I could integrate it using ZigBee only.
When you buy something like a DHT22 or other sensors, does it matter if you buy the cheapest one you can get on Ali Express vs. one 10x more expensive on a EU/US site? Are there differences in terms of quality and if so, how do you pick a good price/quality point?
if i want to buy an esp32 chip, should i prefer the wrover or the wroom?
any thoughts on 3g shutdown? been looking to grab a USB modem sim card for backup notifications and concerned about the pending 3g shutdown in US
suppose 4g huawei is only ~$10 more than 3g
couple month lead time on a lot of the modems though 😦
do you need PSRAM or no?
I don't even know what I can use it for
so far i have only worked with finished boards
if you don't know you don't need a wrover board but either is fine
can you give me a few examples of what the PSRAM can be used for
its just more memory
gonna give the Huawei E3372h-320 a try, will report how it goes once it arrives...soon™️
Has anyone got experience with the MoesHouse HY368 Zigbee Thermostats draining really fast. (Like 1-5 Days?) And maybe a possible solution?
Zigbee
I use it with Zigbee2MQTT
so are you saying just strap any ol motion or door sensor to the can, stick it by the curb and see if it can still be seen?
That's what I would do. It doesn't look like these are exposed as attributes, but you can read them from the file system and set it up as a sensor. --> https://community.home-assistant.io/t/how-to-detected-when-zigbee-entity-is-offline-or-timeouted/274806
Otherwise, one Add'l option is using a cheap ESP8266 w/ ESPhome and a solar charge circuit, connect it to Wifi and have it emit the RSSI on an interval to determine the same thing without having to worry about something needing to trigger the Zigbee sensor....
hey all, just got a fibaro z-wave flood sensor, but it's not detecting any triggers for it when I try to add it to an automation, any ideas?
ok never mind, had to restart HA...like always 😛
any chance you'd have some documentation on the second option? it seems more purpose built than the first option
Any recommendations on a zigbee based smoke detector?
This guy is great for all things ESP, and has a video specifically on this topic - though be warned it'll take some work to do - but if you haven't rolled your own diy sensors already, it will pull you down the rabbit hole of projects 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37kGva3NW8w&ab_channel=AndreasSpiess
Personally I would use this board + an 18650 (you can find cheaper elsewhere) + a 5V solar panel connected to the 5V rail which should feed the charge circuit for the battery. https://www.amazon.com/Makerfocus-Motherboard-Integrated-ESP8266-Compatible/dp/B075H8X7H2/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=wemos+battery+shield&qid=1636691587&sr=8-18
As for the firmware, you should be able to pull in a basic config from ESPhome which will include RSSI (Signal), and add a DeepSleep Component. Hope this sets you in the right direction, but feel free to DM me if you think I could be of any more help
hello, do you know if it is possible to use the somfy rts usb key compatible with the enki box under home assistant? the key being inexpensive, it would be interesting to integrate it, this allows you to switch from the Somfy cloud
Hey guys, gals, and other peeps: Who can share some good advice/experiences on robotic overlords?
I'm in dire need of a robovac and am hoping to score a good deal this month. I've been looking through dozens of models for hours and reading up on HA integrations/workarounds but I can't really decide on a brand/type because of information overload and contradicting reviews.
For me it's an absolute must to be able to use it completely offline, app controllable and HA integration. I do see there's some custom firmware for some of the Xiaomi's, but also a way to use some without cloud and without flashing.
On the other hand there's also... many others haha.
Technical requirements: Must have a charge station and be able to return on its own. At least 2hrs runtime before recharge, virtual zone management and the laser guided navigation - aka the smartypants ones. Mopping is nice but optional.
Feature wise i'm leaning towards an Abir X8, but can't find anything with that one in relation to HA/integrations. So many are Xiaomi based, this one looks similar to me...
Depending on features I'm willing to spend EUR 300~500, rather less than more.
Who has been through this and came out the other end relatively unscathed? 😉
The roborocks has everything you are looking for (not sure on the navigation) but cloud based. It seems to be the go to vacuum around here. Pretty sure you can flash it but I kept the standard firmware on mine.
The S4 uses LiDAR so presumably every model after does also.
Yeah I've seen a lot on the roborocks indeed.
They're a tad more expensive, but that's no biggie if they last for some years.
I’ve had mine for going on 2 years now I think. No issues. I have room automations setup. The only issue is sometimes it is to smart and sees closets when the door is closed (under the small gap at the bottom). and maps out the area. These things are few and far between and the app actually saves backup maps so you can always revert if you pay attention.
Oh, I'd imagine you could 'lock' the mapping feature
like, you're done, no need to keep adding to it
I haven’t found a way but I guess I should look into that. Really not a big deal. The S4 struggles with high shag rugs like the ones in bathrooms but no problem with area rugs say like in the family room over wood floors
The map allows you to make virtual walls and no-go zones so I just block out problem areas.
And rooms that are highly problematic, I setup actionable notifications so it doesn’t clean the room unless I manually tell it too.
Yeah, that'd work.
I think the s5 was a better option overall but I didn’t need mopping so I didn’t get it. Wish I would have because I think the ability to do rugs was better. I haven’t looked at their models in quite some time though.
Yeah I'm comparing for a bit right now
their own 'help me choose' guide steers me towards either an S5 or S6 MaxV depending on whether i choose medium or high budget.
S5 Max is about tree fiddy, S6 MaxV 490.
And then the million dollar question is: Will they go on a better sale in two weeks!?
Pretty sure I got mine during a Black Friday sale. I wonder if with all the supply chain issues, Black Friday will even happen?
In the USA, dubious. IIRC there's still a lot of merchandise trapped on container barges waiting to be unloaded, but my info might be outdated.
here in the EU I'm not seeing any availability issues so far.
The s7 looks a tad bit expensive but you have definitely peaked my interest. My robot vacuum is one of my favorite toys in the automation spectrum. I was blown away on how accurately it mapped our home and how much crap it picks up. Bonus points for going under 95% of the furniture in our house where the regular push vacuum never goes.
Love telling the wife when she gets and exclaims, what did you do today, well baby, I vacuumed the entire house.
Yeah, I'm spending a lot of time vacuuming and I've got a lot of space on the ground floor without high obstacles.
It should be perfect as long as I open all the doors. ^^
Does anyone have any device recommendations for controlling a fan that has dimmable up & down lights as well as 3 speed control?
depending on whether you prefer the wet wiping over simple vacuuming, the G10 could be interesting as well
note that the s6maxv cannot be flashed (it can, but you need to take apart the whole thing)
you only get the clean map with cloud
and extracting the token is a pain
you can also only use the mi home app to use the token
I'm not against taking things apart, but I've already got so many projects waiting to be finished. :3
and mi home app has no support for the camera
And from what I can see, the cleaning performance shouldn't differ that much.
only the roborock app supports the camera and the token of the roborock app is of no use
yup, switches to tuya protocol when in use with the roborock app, and is closed then
Ah.
I haven't looked into the new Tuya protocol specs, not sure if LocalTuya is still a thing either.
it's not possible with the s6maxv at least, will never be unless mi decides otherwise
anyone knows of a device that takes 4 switch inputs I can wire to wall switches to integrate into HA that uses ethernet? The only one I have found so far is the new Shelly Pro 4 PM which is a bit overkill considering I won't actually be using any of the relays
I would also be fine with 4 separate devices
as long as they have ethernet
Since you said wall switches - the inputs are either 0V~ or 230V~? Or are the cables looped (from the spot you'd install the thing -> switch -> back to the install spot) so you can run low voltage?
low voltage would be preferred actually but it doesn't matter
So you could in theory wire it like this?
Sensor device with ethernet ------ Wall Switch
| |
--------------------------------
yes
I've had good success using an ESP32 for that, running a few meters of wire to the doorbell and back (Total maybe 8m), running on 3.3V, since there's no load, the voltage can still be detected
I did think about using an esp32 but I was looking for something a bit more rugged if you know what I mean, I'd be worried about the dupont cables getting unplugged
So I'd get a NodeMCU ESP32 https://esphome.io/devices/nodemcu_esp32.html with an ethernet shield https://esphome.io/components/ethernet.html
As long as you don't move it around too much, should be fine. Mine is dangling around and no unplugs yet. The connectors are good enough, you just need a Female-Male Jumper Cable. Connect to F Side to the pin and the M side to your wall switches. I'd recommend using WAGO clips for this, they hold on super tightly, even a shitty jumper cable won't slip out
unfortunately this is for a mobile setup so it would move a lot
I could solder to the esp pins but idk, it still sounds sketchy to work on as well
sth. like this might be the solution https://czh-labs.com/products/screw-terminal-block-breakout-module-board-for-esp8266-devkitc
You can make your own as well with a bit of soldering https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmz9BzPFAGA
that looks good, thank you
I've found the ESP32 to be a lot more reliable for this stuff, so you might want to use this (I use it with ESPHome)
yeah I'm pretty sure the shelly pro 4pm is esp32 based
It's a lot more stable when you start using the 3V3 or 5V pins, at least for me. You can probably buy sth. like this for the ESP32 as well, haven't looked too much
Take a look at https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-pinout-reference-gpios/ before you start wiring though, I wish I'd have found that site earlier, I was using Pin 12 and that prevented the thing from booting
For the config in ESPHome, I'm using inverted INPUT_PULLUP binary_sensors, don't know if that's the best way to do things though
appreciate all the help!
Anyone know if aqara door sensors are good at $7.50 a piece? Looking for the cheapest reliable door sensor for doors and windows
Haven't had any issues with mine
Do you know if it’s worth picking 10 up for 7.50ish each? Or is this their normal price
You in the US @stark sun ?
Yeah
If so I have an even better deal for you: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-10-XFINITY-Security-Visonic-XHS2-TY-MCT-350-SMA-ZigBee-Door-Window-Sensor-/203254885008
I have a bunch of them. They work fine. They aren't as fast to respond to open/close as some other sensors (like the linkind ones), but they're not slow by any means
Are the large?
Hey, trying my best to get a DHT22 working like documented here https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/dht/#setup
edited the YAML but dont know how to do the sudo apt install am i missing something?
Bigger than the aqara ones I think
I'm not sure if this counts. Does anyone have experience with Home Assistant installed on TrueNAS?
Where on earth are you finding them for 7.50 and please send me the link.
I'm assuming you're using Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi then - You installed Homeassistant OS on the SD card, is that correct?
Ugh now I kinda regret paying 40€ for each window sensor 😩
After lots of tries, I can’t send the link somehow. It links to another product
Just on Aliexpress, 10 for 75.81
Any recommendations for quick and simple mqtt wifi thermometers?
Or something that has an integration, doesn't have to be mqtt i guess, but does need to be wifi. I dont have any zigby hardware
Anyone have any experience with Sonoff wifi plug with energy monitoring? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YDC6D4D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_T81K0GKBMAJFAM8NWR6J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@spare drum yep, I use them with Tasmota...but what's your question
I guess I didn't really have a question, just looking to see if people had success work them. At $7 a pop it's a great price for an energy monitoring plug
would this work to flash that https://www.adafruit.com/product/954
Has anyone had problems getting a Yeelight bulb to connect? I had it connected, but had to reset the bulb, and I had to re-connect it to HA. Now I can’t get it to connect with auto-discover or by manually entering the IP
I take it no one has tried Home Assistant installed on TrueNAS instead of raspberry pi?
For a basic HA setup is a raspberry pi 4 2gb good enough or would splashing out to a 4gb be better
HA should use somewhere around half a gig of ram for a "basic setup"
hi, I've spent couple of hours googling now and I think I am more lost than I was before started so thought I'll ask it here. I am trying to purchase some hardware to start my home automation project. I don't have a budget. but I would like to buy things that are needed, rather than order many things just to realize later they don't work together. I have a NUC that I could use for hass and I want to build my own sensors with microcontrollers. Atm I am stuck trying to draw a diagram how my hw layout would look. I expect NUC being HASS, and then can't decide whether echo or smartthing or sonoff bridge. also anything else that's needed? not sure what are the best practices at the end of 2021 since most advices I find is from 2018-2019. I'm located in the Netherlands btw
depends how many addons you want to use, but generally more ram is better
Yeah i might just go extra then, thanks @flint plaza @civic kraken!
If you’re building microcontroller sensors then couldn’t you use something like an ESP32 or similar based wifi device and save on a bridge?
well I want to play with many things. not only esps. market is full if interesting zigbee stuff... I want somehow an infrastructure where I could blend my own things together with available shiny stuff. voice control also something that I want to explore, which then echo comes to mind
I guess for voice control depends on what infrastructure you already have, like if you have iphones then a homepod might be more useful, etc (since HA can integrate into Homekit). Unsure how easily zigbee is to make your own sensors for, I just have played around with the ESP32s and they’re incredibly simple to set up for your own sensors
I'm almost full android/linux user, but I think I just need to take a step back and find a sense making diagram how all the hw plug in to serve this whole home automation. cause now I see that i had a different idea what was responsible for what. thx for the input
Wonder if anyone else has this problem, After updating to the 2021.11.x of HA, every random amount of hours (always less than 24) i just cant reach HA anymore. I have to power cycle the Pi to get it reachable again. I can ping the IP address no problems. Running a Pi 3b+ with a 64 GB A2 microsd card with Plenty of space , left (only used 9.7gb) Got 2021.11.3 with HA Os 6.6. got a Gigabit LAN hard wired, so its not WiFi based.
Any ideas as to what the problem might be?
Your install method channel can help there
if you were to do a mass deployment of connected power outlets - is there a specific manufacturer you would deploy?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Is this a good zigbee dimmer? Or are there any other suggestions? Should be with no neutral for Sweden https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Sunricher_SR-ZG9040A-S.html
I asked here yesterday, I hope it’s the correct place. Any advice on simple thermometers that work on WiFi, either via Mqtt or an integration? I current have some (4x) sonoff th switches, but they are bulky and not very present to look at. I want to put a few more thermometers around the house so I can track the temperatures in specific rooms.
Are you planning on using USB to power them?
Install the SSH addon if you didn't already
When there's a downtime, go to hostname:4357 e.g. hassio:4357 and look if there's a simple webpage with the Home Assistant observer output
If not, try opening a SSH session to your box, since you said pinging still works.
Also, try inspecting /config/home-assistant.log
As said before, I'd also avoid using any bridges if possible. If you want to use Zigbee, get a reccomended USB stick (should be the ConBee II or later).
As for other devices, well, personally I only buy stuff that works without any type of cloud, in fact the whole IoT subnet is firewalled, so nothing can access the internet except Home Assistant. Might be a bit overkill, however keep in mind that with local control comes local power, so there's no way a cleaning lady unplugs the server in china and now your lights stop working. There's templates.blakadder.com which is a great resource, keep in mind you might need a tiny bit of soldering for some devices on there.
Other than that, as said before, ESPHome.io and Tasmota are superb, since you can DIY a lot of stuff and take control over nice shiny IoT products if you can flash them.
Also, there's https://valetudo.cloud/ which integrates nicely with Home Assistant without sending your floofplan to 24 different servers and only working if they respond.
If you need inspiration, take a scroll through https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/ to uncover what's available. Speaking of covers - you can automate those too. All in all, take a look at the categories on the left on that site 🙂
Do you mean outlets or plugs? In any case, Gosund and Sonoff have both been working great for me. You could go a step further and use the shelly stuff you can use inside the wall or in the fuse box as well.
I changed my smart bulb tradfri. Now its broken with a crack its also a lot hotter then my yeelight is this something that you guys also have?
A fire extinguisher
very insightful, thanks a lot!
the reason I wanted zigbee is I wanted to build/buy a i.e. temp/humidity sensors that would have a long lasting battery. that made me think that I will need a bridge. related question - can I access commercial temp/hum sensor data through home assistant restful api?(given they are connected to it?)
Those bulbs have a white plastic bulb, right? So a crack shouldn't be too bad
Or is it one of the glass ones?
Well that of course depends, you could scroll through the sensor integrations if you already know what you're looking for
I was so pissed about changing batteries, I went with EnOcean, most devices following the standard are energy harvesting, e.g. a remote uses the energy from you pressing the button to send the wireless signal
Same for temperature / humid. sensors, they have a small solar panel that charges a capacitor and they can run without direct sunlight
Or window sensors, the energy of the sensor depressing is enough to send the signal
Only downside: They are really expensive.
Be aware that the EnOcean integration in Home Assistant is fairly simplistic, there's no secure mode, not teach-ins. Works for all the stuff I've got though (buttons / remotes, window sensors)
not sure if I would have enough light to charge indoor sensor, the reason I need that is cause I installed TaDo sensors on my radiators and I'd like to create some automations that control TaDo based on temp data. some rooms don't even have windows. also then I'd like to use that data with prometheus/grafana
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tado/ should do the trick, it's cloud based though (but I guess all their stuff is)
yeah saw tado, it's cloud based. I thought I could use HA with my sensors and just tell tado change temp values based on some logic that I wrote myself. so for that I would need those low power temp sensors plugged to HA
https://hass-apps.readthedocs.io/en/stable/apps/schedy/ is how a lot of people do that
The Hive thermostat however is Zigbee based, so you can connect it directly (instead of their cloud service)
You can also use a Generic Thermostat which lets you create your own thermostat inside HA, fully customizable: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/generic_thermostat/
Does that still work? No commits since 16 months
whew, ok I have a lot to read on now. I think I also need to install HA first and start adding things to get better understanding how things work there 😅 thanks guys for comments, real useful
Well, nowadays the onboarding process should present you all the devices it found on the network, so that's a good point to start as well 😄
It's not like software needs to keep getting updates for it to work...
Back when Home Assistant introduced a version number for custom integrations a lot of them broke, same now with the icon change, most of the frontend stuff needs updates just to keep working. If they change how AppDaemon interacts with Home Assistant, this might be a bit problematic as well
Don't get me wrong - I like that there's so much development going on there, however as the automations get more advanced I find that most of what I want can be done with HA or NodeRed
Remember where you are, Tinkerer. Half of the reason to update Home Assistant is because google force pushed something to your toaster which made it stop working with the old version... It's a reasonable assumption around here.
I suppose I'm more of the if somebody recommended it I'll give it a try - rather than assuming they don't know what they're talking about
Then we have a different view there too. For the record: Never just try anything I suggest without researching it first.
Trust but verify
On a different note - is there something I can do to increase the performance of sonos speakers? snapshotting, grouping etc. takes about 6-8sec before my doorbell sound gets played
I currently have 2 wired in the LAN, the rest using SonosNet or however they call their wifi protocol - is "pure" wifi to all of them maybe faster?
Hey guys. Do u have recommendations for Wifi Plugs with power measuring feature?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Gosund SP112 work great for me, they don't measure really low loads <10W or <5W but they have 2 USB outputs which can be switched as well
I think they're a clone of the Blitzwolf SHP5
Do I have to flash them?
Arrgghh stupid Discord
I flashed mine, yes, tuya-convert worked on them back then, maybe they've changed to the new FW though
Where do you live? You could get stuff from cloudfree.shop (US) or mylocalbytes (UK), their plugs seem to work pretty well too
EU (Austria)
Ah ja servus
Well, nevermind the 112 changed to a different chip 😦
If you don't mind spending a bit more, I'd get the Shelly Plug S
Servus xD
They seem to be the same:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0872PFLJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_13K3FM9B9RE1ZZTP0B8P
Good find! Search through the reviews, Tasmota seems to work there, even tuya-convert 🙂
Not for that 🙂 Good luck with them 😄 Let's hope they won't do a switcheroo on you and use another chip
I dont mind how I power the thermometer, whether usb or battery.
this is another approach that avoids the snapshot dance: https://github.com/jjlawren/sonos_cloud
Wow, that sounds lovely! Is an internet connection required for continuous use or only for initial setup? The readme makes it sound like it's using a cloud api for its operation
it uses a cloud API. unfortunately that's the only way that specific feature is exposed 🤷
Damn, that's a bummer. I regret buying those things more and more.. Good job with your project though! 🙂
you'd still use the built-in sonos integration for everything else besides TTS/alerts
which is all still local
Yeah, true that, I just don't like punching holes in my firewall
you shouldn't need to if they're working fine today and you use any external music sources
Yeah, they have no internet access though 😄 So that'd be tricky
Again - thanks for your recommendation tough. I might fiddle around with WiFi again, or just move to a different solution, snapcast would be nice, even though I'd need to set up new speakers for that.
i'm guessing your restrictive network may be causing slowness. i have mine in an isolated vlan and it took a bit of work to make them discover/work properly
Hm, it's been working fine for a few weeks/months now, just a second of delay after each step adds up
check your logs for warnings on the sonos integration. it'll tell you if it can't make the (push-based) subscription callbacks
and are you on the latest HA release?
A few versions ago I had similar issues, now the log has no sonos entries and it's working fine
it only writes it out once
I've restarted a few hours ago, but there are no entries
The communication between the HA host and the speakers is working fine firewall-wise
I guess snapshot-pause-join-wait for join-setvol-play from http source just takes time, and more than I'd like
unfortunately the cloud API would be a much cleaner experience... but it's cloud-dependent
True, until it isn't because they screw up their server config or decide my speakers need to be recycled or I need to pay or they accidentally get bricked..
Just not for me and my paranoia, I guess the IKEA offering was too good to be true
In the long term I'll need to look for an alternative
yeah, i'd argue that's pretty paranoid
I don't think they'll remote anyones speakers, but they have done a good amount of bait n' switch in the past, so.. yeah. Don't like that their servers have more control over a product that I bought than I do
I guess a "solution" might be to send a 24/7 stream to the speakers where notification sounds can be mixed in
Ugh, that'd still leave snapshots and grouping though
Is there a better way to check if they've finished grouping? Currently I'm using a wait for the sonos_group attribute to reach a certain length
Maybe Sonos2MQTT might be faster with the "notify" command since that's an all-in-one package
that's probably the best method right now. i think there might be a faster way to update groups from event callbacks but haven't had time to explore yet
Hi guys
I have a problem
I am using 2 light bulbs
And my gf keeps lurning the switch off
Tell her to stop
The smart switch will still kill the power
Which doesn't help, it's almost always smart switch or smart bulbs, not both
I am not using the switches
I am only powering the switch
And the switch neutral goes to the lights
Which doesnt work
Tried putting a 2uF bypass condenser
But now my lights are flickering
Any ideeas on what i can try?
Unless you decouple the button from the relay 
- Remove the smart bulbs
- Use only the smart switches
- get a switch that supports decoupling the button from the relay, or if it's a WiFi switch, flash it with custom firmware (if possible) like tasmota which allows for decoupling
Tasmota lets you very easily link a smart switch and smart bulb if they're both flashed with Tasmota. The switch essentially just acts as a remote for the bulb
It's also so fast you'd think it's hardwired
Managed to get AM2302 working but it's not polling new Values any idea?
Hey
Please don't just say hello, post your question too.
What could be my issue, when I'm constantly getting MAC_NO_ACK callback results from my Danfoss Ally?
Whether it be setting a new target temperature or sending external sensor temperature to it
Sounds like a question for the #integrations-archived channel
Has there been a recommended recently-proven-to-be-working outdoor plug solution people have been sharing? All the changes around Tuya are making my head spin as to what will work and what won't.
Should add: US plug type.
Anybody have a recommendation for a thermometer that uses wifi with an out of the box integration? Trying to do tech support remotely so avoiding a ZigBee/Zwave dongle or flashing hardware is preferred. Best we've found so far looks like a Shelly H&T but at $44ish for a unit and power supply it's not the most scalable option I've ever seen.
Do you just want a thermometer? I've found the Netatmo stuff is very plug and play, it's pricy for sure, but it's standalone and easy to set up.
<hi guys
is there any smart usb zigbee switch? the equivalent to the sonoff usb but zigbee. ZHA compatible please. thanks in advanced
Anyone know of a good pool alarm that can integrate (OOB or with little work) with Home Assistant?
I wonder if s31 can operate lower than the official 0 degrees C
Good day everyone! I have a tuya smart socket and it's starting to do weird things while displaying power consumption data.
I want to buy a better one and if possible to integrate it with HA. Any recommendations?
I'm located in Spain, don't mind wifi or zigbee, budget around 20-30€. The only feature that I want is power meter. This is for tracking a pc power consumption.
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
from the time tuya convert went bust, I have been using mostly sonoffs https://sonoff.tech/product/diy-smart-switch/powr2/ You can load this with esphome. You can pair this with a shortest cable extension (M-F) and you have your power monitoring socket. It is not elegant looking, but does the job very well
Thanks for your comment. I was looking for something in the form of a socket if possible
yeah the problem is that except those tuya ones, i could not find any with PM. Hence, this was the best contraption. Just to be clear, I am taking about this kind of extension, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32908961161.html you cut the wires in middle and attach to Sonoff POW R2
Yes, I understood what you ment 👍
I think i might do that, but it will destroy the cable management 😋
I just got these for a ceiling fan. Was difficult to find an E12 60W equivalent RGBW bulb. When I installed they did a bit of flickering and sometimes 1 would be slow to change color with the group. Just in Smart Life app so far. Haven't integrated into HA yet. Could they be because they were on a dumb Dimmer switch even though it was at max brightness? I just wanted to test them out befor I replace the dumb dimmer with a smart dimming switch and rewire everything. It's my only fixture in the house that uses e12 so didn't have another place to test.
Smart Light Bulbs with White Light 2700k-6000k - 6W LED Candalabra Bulb E12 Base - 60W Equivalent - WiFi Multicolor Light Bulb - B11 RGB Color Changing Bulb, Works with Google Assistant, 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YC9TG4L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_19YBD2FVPD8CWR0KXVQB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
An old dimmer usually causes a voltage drop which LED bulbs can't really handle, so yeah, that's possible
Just a few hours ago I ripped an old dimmer out of a circuit because of its age it failed and caused a power outage in half my home
Anyway, bypassing the dimmer might be a testing option if you think you have a bit of electrical experience
It was a new dimmer bought and installed in 2017
Yeah next step is to open the switch up and test again. Just thought I'd ask.
I've rewired most of my house but now smarting all the lighting.
Then it's probably doing PWM, which LED bulbs can handle, but since smart bulbs have the smart circuitry in front of that that can cause power issues (restarts) which might be visible as a flicker
OK appreciate the feedback. Just wanted to check to make sure my next test was the right direction. Not "that definitely shouldn't happen"
Get a WAGO clip or an alligator wire (if there are no kids running around) and short the L and L1 terminal (I'm not too familiar with US wiring), so that you bypass the dimmer
Or ask a friend if you can use their light fixture 😄
Haha who has friends that you see in person these days?
Yeah I'll just wire nut the line and the load together
Oh right, you guys have wire nuts
If you don't then what the heck do you have?
We have WAGO-KLEMMEN and SCHUTZKONTAKTSTECKER which the VERBAND DEUTSCHER ELEKTRIKER certified
Good ol' german engineering
Yeah, Wago here too... wire nuts would cause the safety standards folks a heart attack
wago is the truth
(or, for the really old installs, screw based versions of the Wago)
First time I saw wirenuts I immediately knew it was an American invention
You just know when you see them and of course they come in a huge plastic jar with like 5000 in there
so you can replace them often
Are any Sonoff options good to use outdoors?
for a while 🤣
Ha.
So buy new ones every holiday season and hope they make it to January.
depends on which option you're referring to
Just looking for an outdoor US-type plug that is known to be working as of recently.
wyze outdoor plug
Actually used your site to find these: https://templates.blakadder.com/etekcity_ES015-TB.html
But can't seem to get them to work.
Flashing issues?
Yeah.
Can't establish a connection to the chip?
Correct.
Did you solder the needed connectors onto the chip?
Or pressing the wires on / using a jig?
Pressed on.
I like the look of these. Are people flashing them or using the Wyze API HACS integration?
Using Digiblur's method?
Got it. Thank you.
If you happen to have a 3D printer or someone who has one, you can print a jig (or maybe get one off ebay) if you plan on flashing more
Otherwise, soldering is the best option, when you're pressing the wires on you basically need a 2nd person, even though you can start with 3v3, GND and GPIO0 pulled to GND, remove GPIO0 and then add TX/RX (remember to swap)
However I've had limited success with that
pressing wires with a non-jig has a high failure rate
Managed to get AM2302 working but it's not polling new Values any idea?
Does anyone have any recommendations for path lights (for indoor stairs) that integrates well with HA?
Using ESPHome?
Nah directly connecting to GPIO
Finally I recieved sonoff zigbee cordinator after 2 months from ordering
Yes, currently just looking for a thermometer; I'm trying to automate running a space heater to prevent pipes from freezing. Never heard of Netatmo before, looks like they've got some interesting products. Thanks for the tip!
I'd say Netatmo is technically overkill, but also, the air quality sensors in it could be really handy with a space heater involved!
is the neutral version prefered for xiaomi aqara single switch module t1?
If you have a neutral wire, definitely. I don't have a neutral wire, so it was not 😉
Anyone else have Aeotec zw005 sensors? Trying to configure mine and running into some issues for triggering lights.
Hello. Maybe someone knows about a PCIe card (PCIe to E-key) that supports (Google Coral M.2 Accelerator with Dual Edge TPU) and where to buy? Preferably in the EU. Thanks
Hey, I currently have a philips hue bridge and some lamps and switches. I want to expand my home assistant with even more bulbs, sensors etc but I do not want to limit myself to only philips hue.
So, my question: If I want to buy Aqara door sensor, what do I need to buy in addition to this?
Bonus question: I don't really understand the difference between Conbee ii, Zigbee2mqtt, deConz, ZHA etc.... Can anyone explain it like I am five?
you get better answers in #zigbee-archived
I've connected a smart plug for my PC and one for my laptop, both including a lot of transformers (charger, standing desk, LED PSU,..) and now the second one has a stuck relay as well as the first one, even though the max load of 16A isn't reached (shouldn't even be 8A), however I'm assuming the rush-in of the inductive load has welded the relay - is there any solution to this? Not like fixing the broken ones, but are there relays/plugs that can handle this?
chinese rating / 2 = actual max rating
If it's a relay based "old" smart plug the rating may very well be for purely resistive loads.
A solid state one may work better.
i never got solid state relays to work, they always let power drip through in some weird fashion for me
Even then, this should only draw like 200W but seems like they can't handle the peak when switching
Sorry if this is asked before, but is the xiaomi yeelight smart dual control supported or is only the aqara version supported with home assistant
both are with different integrations/custom components
morning. I have a moses 3-way dimmer that I would like to change the type to a light. It seems to have registered or imported as a switch and I cant access the dimming properties...
i imported it with tuya
i have other dimmer switches that imported as lights and they work great
what can i do to change the type?
I am looking for a smart plug with pwm. It needs to be able to handle 13A, does someone know of such a device?
Pulse Width Modulation?
They probably meant Power Monitoring even though PWM is sth. different
I have two models of TP Link that work for this, and both seem to be working with Home Assistant. KP115 and HS110
I need to be able to set the appliance (which is a heating element) to 10% with pulse width modulation
That sounds like specialised hardware to me, I'm not sure you'll readily find something on the consumer market
I have the log files, and other than a under voltage problem nothing else seams to be an issue. The under voltage thing happened several time now, but the device keep running, so i am convinced it is something else.
Well, undervoltage can cause issues like that, so I'd make sure to get a good PSU
it is weird cos i have has the same PSU for over a year with no problems
Does it have a USB-A output? If so, change the cable
I will give that a try
If you don't have something to measure power with - plug the cable into a phone and see if it complains about slow charging - also check the estimated charge time, the one with the shortest time should be a good cable. However, I've also paid a lot for certain cables and they're still bad, so it all comes down to testing
Or get a PSU from the Raspberry Pi foundation, that completely eliminates all of the problem, not too expensive either
Same for the power supply, should be capable of deliverying 2A+, even more for the RPi 4
I am using a Samsung Charger,, so it give 5V 2.4A, it is also plugged into a wall and the Pi is attached to a board, on the wall, so there is no motion or bumping of the cable, so this under voltage thing literally just started to happen. I am not sure if maybe the update is more power hungry and this is why i am getting the problem
Yeah, possible
cell phone chargers are usually a poor choice of power supply
big yellow box at the top: https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/raspberrypi
I did think about setting it on my PC that is my media center, but i dont know how to do that as i have it already set up on the pi
HA can be moved to any other system
And any other installation method
Just copy the config folder
Including hidden folders
And all my setting and setups will work?
Yes
Addons might need a reinstall - don't know if you can move a downloaded backup across architectures
Moving HA from one system to another is literally 2 minutes with #449717345808547842 for example
With #330990055533576204 the timeframe I have no idea about since I don't want to touch that with a five foot pole
Do I need to run it in a VM or can HA run on a stand alone setup?
Depends on your installation method
Seems like you can move snapshots/backups across architectures
If you want one-click snapshots and addon management, you'd use a VM with Home Assistant OS, if you have external tools to take care of that (simple enough), you'd use docker / docker-compose
I'm running the OS on a NUC atm
So lets put it this way, I have a PC that is in my lounge, it has windows 10 on it ant i has Plex server and netflix app with some other software, so it is essensually just my Media machine. I was thinking of setting the HA on on that, as it it is on 23.58 hours of the day with a 2 min reboot at 3am
Well, if it's windows, first of all, I feel sorry, secondly I wouldn't try to get docker running there and use a VM with Home Assistant OS
Or a slim VM with docker in there, depends on what you want
Well the fact i am using Windows will tell you I have no clue what i am doing, I have spent a long time setting up HA and getting Google to play nice with it etc, so the thought of moving it gives me cold sweats 🙂
No, I'm just surprised you're using Win10 as a server 😄
The official guide is good, should work for you: https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/windows#install-home-assistant-operating-system
Well not so much as using windows 10 as a server, It was more for the kids to use it for netflix and a bit of homework in the lounge, then it got more HHD and became the machine to hold Plex
Personally, I'd set it up as an Ubuntu Server or Proxmox (potentially with ZFS for your HDDs, but you'd need to learn managing that first) and run Windows as a VM, then Home Assistant in docker or as a VM too
Then again, if you're familiar with Windows and are not interested in that, you'd just get frustrated 😄 So the VM install on Windows would be the way to go.
Create a Backup on the Pi including everything, download it, power down the Pi, install HA via the Guide on the Windows Machine and restore the Backup
Of course, any integration or addon that requires the Raspberry Pi (e.g. stuff that uses the GPIO pins) will not work
hi anyone knows if i can reduce delay on snzb-03(sonoff movement sensor, already integrated with ZHA) from movement detected to cleared? either in program or via parts or clear state myself
Will definatley look into that, I dont use GPIO, but if i can transfer my existing Pi confg i will be happy 🙂
If the install fails, just plug the Pi back in and everything's back to normal
Agreed 🙂
Moving it to a VM on a windows machine will be fine
But why on earth do you reboot every night?
I reboot my media machine every night at 3am, it is just something i set up a long time ago, to keep the system from slowing down, or incase Microsoft do update then it will apply at 3am instead of half way thought the day or night when someone is watching plex on another device in the house.
I have a Oracle VM on my main PC, any suggestions as to what VM i should be using if im going to transfer off the Pi. On page linked above there are 4 potions
probably hyper-v if I had to guess
Hey everyone! The nest hub 2º generation is on sale for a good price where I live, and I always wanted a tablet with the home assistant dashboard for controlling my smart home. Now, is it any good? Does the lovelace cast work well and does everything render well without any hiccups on the browser? Or would I be better off with a <100€ tablet?
Hey folks, what would you power a deimos D1 mini pro with? size isn't too much an issue, just polling my zoom and activating an led if I am on a call. (Edit: Battery option is what I am looking for)
Draws 70mA in normal use, so plugging it into your PC or any charger will be fine unless you're running crazy amounts of LEDs
Well it will be across the room, wall mounted probably.
Would probably even work with a cheap charger + extension cord in that case
Wife doesn't want cords all over the place. I don't mind recharging it once a week or so
So you want a battery-based solution, didn't read that 😄
I've been running Windows desktops and Linux servers for 20+ years, I've never done that, stuff is just on 24/7 until I patch 🧐
I have a couple micro usb breakout ports
Same, it used to be a good thing to reboot your machine, but garbage cleanup is pretty solid these days
if it ain't broke....
Thinking I'll use this - https://www.amazon.com/Diymore-Lithium-Battery-Charging-Arduino/dp/B07SZKNST4
That’s a lot of keywords
yeah
couldn't get it to be a link for some reason
You can delete everything after the last /
done
Guess it'll do the trick, but I'm more of an EnOcean guy and try to get rid of all batteries, so someone else might be able to share their experiences 😄 Looks okay though
Yeah, no convenient sockets where its going
Someone using AM2303 on GPIO?
Been eyeing an HP ProDesk 400 G5 DM, Core i3-9100T, 4GB, 128GB M.2 to replace my 2014 mini PC (10 euro from work) with. That isn't too overkill if I want to run Plex, Sonarr, Studio Code Server, Frigate, Double Take (with it's related detectors), etc on the machine as well? Right? Need a quick sanity check 😛
Someone is offering one for 200 euro second hand and I'm so tempted. 😅
That sounds expensive
I paid $100 for a dual Xeon system with 48gb memory three years ago
I used one for a media center back in the day
Probably 10 years ago 🙂
It was old then
yeeeep
I was trying it on a mac mini but the hoops for docker desktop were just too much
I have a couple spares so I might put linux on it
I have three docker hosts currently, plus a VMware tanzu cluster, and a k8s playpen that I spin up with ansible nested
#homelab
🙅♀️
I see, thank you
I'm planning to start my first journey into home automation and I have a question about which of the following hardware that I own I should use for Home Assistant. I have a Raspberry pi 4 with 4gb that's only running Pi-hole at the moment. but I also have an old Intel Nuc with an 2core 2 thread 2.1 ghz Intel Celeron N2830 thats going unused right now. The Celeron could be considered ancient at this point but I don't have a good idea how it stacks up to the much more modern hardware of the Pi 4. Anybody have any a good idea which route I should go ?
x86 is a lot more powerful usually
Someone asked that exact question on the reddit actually 😄 https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/lrdkdv/raspberry_pi4_to_intel_nuc_dn2820fykceleron_n2830/
The main bottleneck on the Pi is the SD card. Personally, I'd go with the NUC
Yeah with a newer NUC it would be an obvious choice, But this was already old in 2014 when it was released i think. It's only a 7.5w CPU. That doesn't really inspire confidence.
No harm in just trying both I guess.
Again, the Pi is really limited by the SD card, so that adds many seconds every time you restart Home Assistant. Even if it's an old CPU it's probably still faster.
That does make sense, cheers.
Would your choice change if you ad an SSD to the Pi 4 ? think that's an option, would the difference still be enough to go for the NUC.
You'd then be relying on USB to safely write and read data, usually works, but the NUC has an integrated SATA port, right? That's just so much better IMO
I'd say test them both if you have the time, plug in a USB SSD and see how fast Home Assistant restarts without any config changes
If the RPi4 wins or is close enough and the USB disk works fine, then maybe use that if you have a good power supply. Also the RPi gives you GPIO pins, if that's something you need, but ESPHome / Tasmota have come a long way, so I don't know if that's too big of a factor
I have no prior experience at all with home automation, just getting my feet wet. It's only going to be some lights, motion sensors and a door sensor or 2.
Yeah, NUC would do fine for me for now I reckon.
Cheers for the input!
Also - there are like no power issues with a NUC, which is really nice in my experience 😄
NUC all the way (or an old laptop) if you can get it for a similar price
True, UPS included there 😄
that too if you live in a 3rd world country 😛
Hi where i can find help with hassos and hdd
any way to get HAS (lovelace/frontend) on a facebook portal via mods/hacks/reflashing or any other means? i have chance to get one new in box for $50.
I have a CC2530 device, which I want to act as a router. Should I chose Koenkk or ptvo firmware?
I have tried flashing it with Koenkk firmware, but it does not seem to be working at all, cannot make it join my network
Hi I’m about to buy a new router, transitioning out of a ASUS ac-3200 which I liked but has problems with 20+ devices on the 2.4 band.
Is there any particular brand of pointers I should be looking at so that I get something that can handle 30+ devices on 2.4mh band?
You should look at a distributed access point system like a couple of Ubiquiti AP lites.
I have a problem if someone wants to take a crack at it... I have quite a few esp cams going. One is connected to the external antenna and is usually up about 95% of the time. The others are using the internal antennas and they keep going on and offline. I was thinking the signal was the problem so I put a wifi extender right next to them. Now the signals are all through the roof but they still keep going offline every 20-30 min and then coming back like 10 min later.
I set static ip's for all of them too... the only thing I can think of that might be causing an issue is I have the resolution at 1024x768. Do you guys think maybe I am pushing them too hard and possibly causing them to overheat or something? It's only the esp cams though I have a bunch of other esps running various things and none of them ever go offline.
I have tried reloading the intergrations and reflashing the firmware more then a few times too.
Like I said they go on and offline so it's not like they are just dead 24/7 I just want to know why they keep clipping out like they do it's driving me crazy
What smart thermostats are recommended (zigbee/z-wave)? I was looking at Aeotec Radiator Thermostat, but have no experience with any.
Are you looking for a controller per radiator or something for the wall for the home?
Hello can i use my raspberry as HUE Bridge? there is someway to use it?
Depends on what you have installed on the Raspberry already
And what you mean by Hue Bridge I suppose
Hi, is it possible to disable the audio component (that uses pulseaudio) from HA?
I'm not using any audio at all originating from my Pi, hence I'd like to disable it as it consumes unnecessary CPU...
sounds like #330990055533576204
I'm actually running supervised on docker
then you should be a linux and docker expert so you should already know the answer 😛
I know m way around, but far of being an expert... 😆
I know PulseAudio is installed by default on Raspbian , but HA is the only client of it
and currently it is running at 14% CPU almost continuously....
and for that I have no clue on how to fix that
Well, if you're running Raspbian then you're not running a supported #330944238910963714 install
it works like a charm.... except for PulseAudio... the fact that it is containerized, abstracts the actual underlying OS... so Raspbian or Linux should be transparent
Still not supported

#330944238910963714 can help you move to a supported install
Or you can run #330990055533576204
so if I run the supervised on linux I would get some insights on possible cause ?
if you want any assistance it is mandatory to run a supported config
tbh NOONE Should be running #330944238910963714
#330944238910963714 can help you with that install method, but you will be told to run it on Debian
for what reason exactly? I think it's great to have the flexibility to add addons and have some additional flexibility an upgrade assistance of the supervisor
addons are just containers with unicorn poop that makes them magically seem to update
docker compose can do the same with minimal effort
That install method is only supported on Debian because of compatibility issues with other OSs
If you were to actually read the ADR you'd see it's purely HAOS with the OS replaced by Debian. Any software you install on the host makes you out of support
For a quick fix there are numerous threads in the forum about this issue, did none of those work for you?
Even then, running an unsupported install might cause problems in the future
s/might/will/
Hey guys, does anyone have any experience with poe modules on the raspberry pi 4? Im talking about the standalone poe modules like the Ag9700 and not the poe hats you can buy.
I have been trying to get one working for about 2 days but the poe protection keeps tripping on the poe switch
If someone could point me to a schematic on how to connect these modules that would be great, i have tried following the datasheet but for some reason it isnt working that way
Hello all, anyone in the UK found any decent smart plugs with monitoring that can be updated with the Tuya firmware? i bought a couple of these from amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Knightsbridge-1GAKW-Smart-Plug-White/dp/B088RJ2FT1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=smart+plug+monitoring&qid=1637164143&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTEpDS1hZMUVQUk9CJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDI5NzE5MzhQM1BZUFU3VzlGMSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDc4Nzc4MjZDWDBMT1pOWk5PNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=) , sadly latest firmware and cannot be updated using the tuya update method. Even sacrificed one to see if i could update the TYWE2S chips (no luck) using a bodge job soldering effort.
Hello does anyone know if its possible to use the functionality of the Waveshare "Uninterruptible Power Supply UPS HAT For Raspberry Pi, Stable 5V Power Output" with I2C?
I was thinking about getting this but was unsure if its usable
Use it with ... Home Assistant OS?
Nothing for on the wall, just for HA specific.
I will automate it, so I need no local controls
And if I do I would want them in HA
not sure if you mean me but yes I use the OS version of Home Assistant
oh sorry i forgot to turn the reply thing off
#330990055533576204 can tell you then
Thank you
https://www.szedup.com/support/driver-download/bluetooth/ep-b3536/
I have this bluetooth usb adaptor. Driver appears to be missing and they only give windows driver on their website. Adaptor works fine on windows with their driver.. any way I can make it work on raspberry pi with HAOS?
#330990055533576204 could help you there, but if it's not natively supported you're out of luck
no way to install driver? that sucks
Installing a Windows driver won't help you 🤣
I know that much
I don't know about #330990055533576204 but dongles titled CSR seem to work by default with most distros
there must be linux driver, but I have no idea what bt chip is in that thing and no idea on how to find out
I have a CSR 4.0 dongle currently, plugged it in and it worked
Of course, that's Debian, not HAOS...
well shame this dongle has nice antenna ;-;
Hi, I just purchased one of these and hooked it up to a wall switch and I want it to restore to the last state it was on after I turn the power on/off. Does anyone know how to do that? It says in the manual that we remembers the state but It's not doing that in home assistant I think
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Lighting-Network-Repeater-Required/dp/B081VYNF27
Any ideas for how I might go about selling a lot of TP-Link Kasa smart plugs? Was thinking eBay, but then I thought to ask if hardware is ever sold here as well...
Hi, I'm trying to pair my new sonoff zbmini to zigbee2mqtt, but I won't get any message in the log file. I tried the steps from the documentation(https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/faq/), but no succes. does anyone have an idea on what could be wrong here?
Sounds like #zigbee-archived
thanks I'll head over to that part
I figured it out. If you go to the configuration you can set it to turn on to previous state.
Hi trying to fix ambient lights n capture card shows hdcp2.2 but when I on Google chrome only show black screen. Lights all working. Is the capture card the problem? When I off hyperion the screen come back on
Anybody know why I can only see some of my ring devices in HA? I can see them all in the ring app and in Alexa, but I only see some of them in HA.
Anyone heard anything about the Ring motion detector? I came across it as one of the most popular on Amazon, but I haven't seen it ever mentioned in reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Alarm-Motion-Detector/dp/B07ZB2QF2V
Hi all- I haven’t bought hardware in a while but need some more smart plugs for holiday lights. Does anyone know of a regularly updated list of hardware that can be flashed with Tasmota using OTA flashing?
there really isn't one--the number of devices that can actually be tuya-converted is incredibly slim these days
how do i install home assistant on Intel Nuc, i just recent get one and before i was using rasperry
Two options. (1) take the drive out of the NUC and install it in an external enclosure, connct that to a PC and flash the HA image to it. Then install it back in the NUC. Or... (2) Use a Linux live installation USB drive to boot up the NUC and burn the image to the NUC's drive without removing it. Both methods are explained in tha installation documents. https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/generic-x86-64
so in summary of the guide i guess i have to: Install HA Operating System -> Install HA Container -> Install Home Assistant Core
WAt? No.
The image has HA OS and the core all ready to go.
Install the image. Done. Boot it up.
Anyone have any suggestions on controllable HDMI switches? A matrix seems way overkill for my use case; I'm just trying to hook up a number of different old consoles to a single switch that can lead into my capture card; goal is to be able to use the stream deck plugin to be able to swap what console is being streamed at a button press.
honestly an IR setup seems like the most likely choice but I don't want to get some super overkill setup.
you've got the wrong hobby then
Does anyone else have any TP-Link HS100 plug switches?
The last weeks I’ve had an issue where a plug constantly goes unavailable for a second before reconnecting. This causes the power to toggle off and back on as home assistant sets the state to where it should be.
I’ve seen the posts about how they struggle with certain issues so I’ve tried a few things like positioning it next to the Wi-Fi access point and disabling any form of auto channel switching for testing. I’ve also assigned it a static DHCP reservation and hard-coded the IP in HA and disabled auto discovery.
During phases of unavailability the device just blinks green amber and I can see it hosting a Wi-Fi network as if it is not configured anymore.
A factory reset by holding the button for 10s has also been done.
Is my device defective or am I missing something? 🤔
A hardware defect might suck. It’s a few months over warranty.
I'm using this: https://feintech.eu/products/vsw04202-hdmi-2-0-switch-4x1-hd-audio-extractor
Controlling it via a IR Tasmota device, works great
anyone has a recommendation for a device to control the audio levels of my speakers?
I would like to place 2 speakers inside my gardenhouse, and 2 in my garden.
anyone knows how i can set all speakers on the same audio driver and use home assistant to control the audiolvls of each speaker? (or turn some off)
Anything is possible with any zigbee \ zwave controller
you can tell it to do what you want to via automations
heck, you could probably make something fun with a xiaomi cube
That's a good starting point for you, then as ATX said, you can use anything you can connect to HA to control them
I use buttons, cubes, and more
wonder if I could use neural networks to train a smart speaker to react to different fart frequencies I produce 🤔
the problem isn't controlling the volume levels of the speakers, but do you have some recommendations of hardware i could buy for this?
i mean the module that controls the speaker and can connect to HA, not the button to control the module
buy... smart speakers ?
its ment to place them outdoors, so are there any (cheap that can resist rain, snow or stormy weather?)
so, you need a smart amp connected to disposable or weatherproofed speakers then
yes
something i could connect the speaker wires too and use that to control the volume lvls
like a dimmer for a light, but for audio
no, that is not how it works
you would need a multi channel smart amp
with individually controllable outputs
you can't "dim" a speaker wire
doesn't seem like i'll find any off these for under $100
sounds right
Hi, I'm trying to move from a CC2531 dongle to a sonoff USB plus, wrote the old adaptors ieee to the sonoff, stopped z2m, swapped dongles, changed port: and started z2m again, I can control all existing devices but I can't add new devices. any ideas? don't see anything in /config/zigbee2mqtt/log when I enable joining and put a device in paring mode. any help greatly appreciated!
sounds like #zigbee-archived 🤔
my wife will never let me spend so much money for a way to control our volume..
how weatherresistant would a google nest mini be?
depends on the weather and the placement
so roughtly 5436.43
I would never place smart speakers here outdoors in winter where we have -35c
Depending on how many you want, you could just get standard garden / outdoor speakers and connect them to a Raspberry Pi with a HAT (Hifiberry comes to mind)
The Raspberry Pi could then run Snapcast
we may have -10°C, would that harm the device?
Any familiar with c by google switches?
My Hifiberry and speakers survived that last winter (while being powered)
if it is a google home device, it will not stay powered on
i wouldn't want anyone who enters my garden to just ask google to open my garage door
that is why you have voice match
Well you asked for speakers not a voice assistant 😛
voice match isn't always perfect... so this would make me sleep better if it isn't powered on
yes, but controlling the volume seems to be more expansive than just installing 1 google home mini at the place we likely sit most
Is there a Google compatible device to open your garage door that I can operate through the Home app and disable voice?
Minis are 24$ right now
i already have something in place that outlets outdoor disconnect every night, or as soon as both me and my wife leave the house, so that is not a problem
@obtuse valve saw that before, thanks for the suggestion. This'd be my first time flashing something with Tasmota, so good opportunity to learn.
lots of smart speakers without mics though @lunar oracle I love my symfonisk
I don't need more than 4% volume in my office
it would cover my whole garden with sound if I had it at 100%
i'll look into it
I bought this for that: https://templates.blakadder.com/nedis_WIFIRC10CBK.html it's based on the YTF thingy, I'd try getting my hands on one of those
The advantage: Flashing is easy (you still need a USB-TTL adapter), sacrifice a micro-usb cable (cut it in half, get alligator clips on every wire), open up the device. Then just wire (from the TTL adapter): 5V to the red USB wire, GND to the black, and green/white to TX/RX, connect that to the device. Now just pull GPIO to GND (the pad is exposed on the front) and voila, you can flash without soldering
I usually just tape dupont pins to the device pads 
That sounds harder than it actually is
Cut the USB cable, connect the leads to the USB-TTL adapter. They've connected the TX/RX to the USB data lines is what I'm trying to say, so flashing is a breeze 😄
madman
Yeah, Electroboom does too, I hope your lab explodes less often though
Very seldom
reminds me, I was supposed to fix my neighbours Yamaha DX7II power supply
and her active subwoofer
Micro USB? Shit, I was about to throw out a bunch of e waste of old cables anyways
They come with one as well, you need one with a rather flat plug
I keep all my broken ones and reuse them in ESP projects
Now I don't have to buy one to sacrifice
Never done this before either but hey, first time for everything
That's the spirit
Well the front of the device has solder pads for all GPIO you need, however this was a bit easier 😄
"I've never done this before"
Also them: solders wires on 20 super small pads
You should have seen me splicing fiber optical cables
why is this stupid RF receiver not working arrrg
RF 🤢
Yea
I'm using it to create a network of Tasmota devices all communicating with MQTT over 433MHz
jk my stupid projector screen has a remote I wanna automate
Not like I got anything else to ponder
it has no serial port ? if so you could probably control it via wifi instead
Around 5am sometime blew up nearby and half my neighborhood has no power
I work remotely
OH WELL
Does anyone have a recommendation of a sensor for fridge/freezer temperature monitoring? I'd prefer something battery powered.
Power outages are so rare here, I can remember all three that have been the last 14 years 😆
only one of them was longer than 30 minutes
The projector does, I'm using IR for that atm, which works well enough, however the projection screen with its motor doesn't, or even if it has, I don't want to run another wire over there
@gloomy elbow I'm implementing ESP32 + DS temp sensors for my fridge room (4 freezers and one fridge)
That's interesting! I have a fair few ESP32s looking for a use (accidentally bought 10 instead of 1, AliExpress + distracted = oops!). Are you following a guide anywhere?
@fringe moon aw shucks, and here I was about to ask for recommendations on generators with good integration into HA 😂
@gloomy elbow https://esphome.io/components/sensor/dallas.html
Superflat wires instead of batteries are an option too since batteries don't really like -18°C 😄 But I guess you can have an automation to remind you to change them
speaking of generators, does anyone here know about CT clamps enough to diagnose a weird reading?
I use smart sockets - with power monitoring you can learn a lot about how hard they are working, and whether they have failed
If either of mine draw too much, or not enough power over a given peroid, i get an alert about it. Either the door's been left open, the compressor has failed or the power's out
I don't really have space in that area for smart plugs, and I'm mostly curious about the data rather than actually expecting a problem.
Yes, I didn't fry my RC receiver, now why won't you dump rc_switch messages
Finally
Now should I go through the pain of setting up a serial connection to my projector to control it or just use IR..
I have an industrial E-Stop button, can anyone think of a way I could implement this as an on/off button with zigbee or zwave?
POWER RESTORED! Now I can go back to plotting to overly complicate my house.
If you're happy to #diy-archived it you can absolutely solder stuff up. Otherwise you need something that has support for contact sensors - there's a load of those, depending on where in the world you are
Guys I have a raspberry pi4, and I need longer cable for power supply, any tips?
Buy a good one?
Can i add globe electric doorbell to homeassistant ? Right now using it with smartlife app but i want to add more functionality to it like take a picture and get it off cloud
#integrations-archived is where to ask about that, but if you can flash it with Tasmota then yes
A lot of cheaper LED lamps and lights come with a remote which claims to control the device via a 2.4Ghz ISM band. Is there any hardware device I could use to control those instead of the remote controls?
Maybe... depends entirely on what protocols they support
Some for instance are actually Zigbee
The label doesn't say and neither does the specs page. How would I find that out?
Lots of Google time?
Ripping one end apart to see what the chips are, and then Googling
I'll have a deeper look into that then. Thanks for the pointer.
hi guys, I recently bought an Amcrest AD410. I connected a transformer to it and can now use it with the app. Is there a wiring diagram on how I should wire the chime kit to a chime that isn't directly connected to the AD410?
Does anyone know of a relatively simple way of motorizing my roller blinds? (type that has the ball chain) i was considering buying an ESP board and a stepper driver, 3d printing an enclosure and going that route
Anyone help me out, can't connect my ipad to home assistant anymore, keep getting can't connect error code NSURLErrorDomain-1001 have no clue why this has started to happen
If you have the ability to flash, maybe concider: https://esphome.io/components/cover/am43.html or https://templates.blakadder.com/zemismart_YH002.html
Which
is there a device that can open my normal garage door opener like my remote does but incorporate it into a smart network
like smart garage door remote heh
having trouble finding it without replacing the whole garage door opener
Well, anything that's good for 100W PD will be overkill, but only slightly more expensive than others. Those have to be certified...
Myq is a shitshow @limber ridge
Random esphome or tasmota device wired into the opener is great
There's also Z-Wave garage door opener interfaces. I'm sure there's going to be Zigbee ones
yeah that is what im readning

do you have any you recommend?
Me... nope, but then your options will depend on where in the world you life, and I suspect we live on different continents
Hi guys, I bought an Amcrest AD410. the wiring schematic says that I should wire the chime kit that is included to the doorbell which also connects to a mechanical chime. Is it possible to connect the chime kit to a chime and the doorbell itself separately to another transformer?
dang, the esphome update just borked my ezo sensors. they're all reading 0 now..
Hello,
i have multiple BLE sensors from xiaomi and I switch from an old rasperry pi to docker on an NAS.
What BLE bluetooth dongle can I get in order to integrate temperature and humidity data into home assistant ?
Thank you from France !
Depends in part on how you run Home Assistant - which install method do you use?
heyho, quick question. should i use ssd or hd as an external storage for an media server?
Depends on your use cases. For most people an HDD is likely fast enough, and cheaper.
Well, since there is only one way to make a media server, it has to be a HDD
🤔
Most likely HDD. If you need the speed e.g. for unpacking stuff with sabnzbd (linux isos) you might need a SSD
If you can afford it then SSD is the way to go - but that's going to be not cheap
well i have a 1tb external hd
and a portable 500gb ssd
i do not need them for anything else so i am free to decide
Does your media fit on the SSD?
yes
If so, use it. Faster and quieter
Hi everyone, I was thinking of starting to measure the consumption of my heat pump. I live in Sweden so we use 3 phases. Are there any good options out there for me with either zigbee or Wi-Fi?
Shelly 3EM?
I’ll check it out, thx!
So i have tasmota flashed on my light switches. I am on version 8.1 core 2_6_1 my question is i know how to upgrade the version to the latest using OVA URL but how do i upgrade the core version since the program version above my current will not support my current core.
You don't need to; the OTA should handle it. Follow the tasmota upgrade flow
ok cool i was not sure the program version would also upgrade the core. Thanks
argon rpi case fan high pitched noise?
makes the noise and then stops
just put new thermal pads
I would like to buy a power bank to act a as UPC for my raspberryPi with HA OS it. Any recommendation on the specs? To keep the power on for several minutes (15) till the power is restored
Ups hats are great
Or upgrade to a system that doesn't commit seppuku if the power fluxes for 3 milliseconds is also an option
at least it dies an honorable death
ない
Well the UPS are rather more expensive than a powerbank, which will to the job i need
You could power your networking equipment with a proper UPS though
I'm struggling to find a Raspberry Pi in stock, are there any alternative mini PCs or am I best off buying a kit that includes one?
Any laptop or minicomputer from the last decade
Will still be an upgrade from a pi
Unless it is an atom
Basically, you're looking for anything that's:
- 64 bit
- 2 GB or more of RAM
- 32 GB or more of storage
- Wired networking
A ~5 year old laptop with a broken display is ideal
And has a non useless storage subsystem
My goal is to create a system that can send alarms to android phones if one our business's refrigerators goes over temperature. So my system I'm planning is
7 of these zigbee sensors: https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Humidity-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Compatible/dp/B08YJBMMC1
An adapter: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8/
And a PC running Home Assistant.
Is this a good plan?
I would just use esp+ds18b20 sensors, powered by wall outlets
Not sure if I'd trust battery operated for that use case
Definitely not sonoff 
Also, only battery powered ZigBee without routers.... Eeeeeh
Battery powered I believe is preferred so I don't have to route a wire inside a freezer, and it'll still work in the event of the power loss
You’re not at all concerned about the cold of the freezer affecting the battery?
Batteries tend not to like the cold
I guess I am, but I'm not sure the best solution, I'm also concerned about signal going through the metal box of the freezer
Superflat cable for a sensor wire, then an ESP8266/32 with ESPHome would be another option
And run the cable in through the door gap?
Well, just close the door on the cable, I mean.
I use some 433 MHz temp sensors that take AA batteries. Lithium batteries are good down to -40F (-40C)
Just to be clear, only lithium primary cells (non rechargeable) have the low temperature rating.
Yep! Good clarification.
i just wana find another bunch of flashable rgbw controllers damn it
This is a long shot but figured I’d try here. I’ve got two Linkind motion sensors that are zigbee. They work great during the day using the motion light blueprint to turn the lights on and then off after 15 minutes of inactivity. The problem is they stop working around 5:00 PM almost exactly. It is very odd. I rebuilt the entire HA system and updated to latest stable. I have no idea why these devices would operate fine all day and the both get stuck in the “detected” state until the next morning.
Sounds like an #automations-archived question. Trigger the automation after 5pm then have a look at the automation trace and see if there is a condition that stops it operating.
Are there any recommendations for cheap rgb bulbs with bug-free integration? I'm sick of the tuya bugs
ZigBee > WiFi
any advantages of zigbee over wifi with local control?
ZigBee is fully local
this will change in the near future
You will change!
It doesn't seem so. I think the sensors just get stuck somehow and around the same time every day. I'm going to send them back and try another sensor. Too much time trying to debug what is going on with them. If the same thing happens with another sensor then I'll know it is on the HA side. All my other devices have worked as expected so I wouldn't think it is an HA thing.
hi all, if make my own hardware how to i can integrate in home assistant ??? for example if have a pcb board with 4 relays, DHT11, DS18B20, and some others how to can make it to run in home assistant WITHOUT NORE RED ????
Not sure what node red has to do with this, but what firmware is running on the hardware?
i can make my on fiirmware for PIC micro or RPI PICO 2040
can i found some help for info protocols that need to send receive to home assistance to work my hardware fine???
Well, MQTT is one option if that firmware supports it
can i send <> receive clear byte arrays to system
???
with some protocol like a some pattern logic that system can read and execute
???
Hi all. I'm running HomeAssistant in a kubernetes cluster on raspberry and I would like to use the SwitchBot integrations. When I try to add the integration it can't scan for bluetooth devices. How can I extend the blueetoth visibility from host to the container? Thanks
Hi everyone, I just bought my first energy measurement device yesterday (Deltaco SH-P01E). When measuring one of my devices I get a steady current of 0,8 A and a voltage of 231 V but the power sensor gives me 122 W. Something seems a bit off since 0,8*231=185W. Am I thinking wrong somewhere here?
Sure, you can do whatever you want. If you have it communicate using MQTT - using standards - then HA and other software can interact with it
my thread devices already find their way to teh internetz
If you need help then the #diy-archived channel is a better place, though if you've never done this before you have a lot of learning ahead
🙂 i am good programmer like a say for PIC micro and RPI PICO 2040 but need some protocol for make my system to integrate in homeassist
i have not way to integrate mqtt direcly in bear metal device like pic micro or rpi or i have not yet info if already can 🙂
what about jason ???
in pi micro develop LOW level have not curl
The #diy-archived channel is where you're going to get more help
The RPi however can run Linux, MQTT is trivial there
And Google found me https://nostdahl.com/2019/06/24/mqtt-for-pic-microcontrollers/
did you see schematic diagram bellow 🙂
No, but then ... the #diy-archived channel is where you can get more help
Yes
ok

And that section is for things like ESPs and micro-controllers
and i have a hardware question
"dude"
There's a channel for #yellow-archived if you have questions about it.
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
If you have problems with the Blue see #330990055533576204. If your install isn't responding then see your install method channel above.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://www.codepile.net/ or https://paste.debian.net/ to share code or logs
huhu, can anyone suggest power plugs which are supported by HA out of the box? Wifi would be cool
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
You forgot to mention where in the world you are... that's "slightly" important
yes i got that message 😉
Be warned, WiFi mostly means cloud, which means if their cloud service, or your Internet connection, goes out, you can't control them
huhu, can anyone suggest power plugs for EU which are supported by HA out of the box? Wifi would be cool. I have also Bosch and Hue bridges which can be used. There is no special budget. I just wanted to see what is possible. Hint: i want to use them also when no internet connection is available
😉
I only have one wifi plug, a meross outdoor one
Zigbee FTW
works fine for me with the homekit controller
but yeah, you want zigbee
or zwave even
Z-Wave better
Zigbee cheaper
i dont not understand tech-stack right now. Philips Hue ist ZigBee and Bosch also right? could i add there any ZigBee device?
Well, you can add whatever those bridges support
Which is why most of us recommend not using bridges
ok.. Zigbee USB dongle to my HA right? 😉
Yup
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
ok but it seems that the Bosch bridge supports all zigbee devices
fingerscrossed 😉
Salus do some nice plugs that do power monitoring
monitoring is not the main goal.. first of all a just wanted to measure humidty and start/stop a device which is conncted to a power plug
so on/off is enough
I have some ledvance smart+ zigbee plugs which integrate fine with my hue bridge for on/off
Quick Question : Any UK peeps out here and any recommendation for plugs (Wifi or Zigbee), power monitoring would be nice. And if possible without cloud intergration (or reflashable with tasmota or esphome)
Moving quite soon and currently only have EU plugs :D. Want to change them to UK plugs.
Salus SP600 is Zigbee and does power monitoring - quite a nice form factor too
I like my plugs to have a local power control on them... won't buy anything that doesn't
If those had a button, they'd be damn nice
Lol ... soldering ?
where?