#hardware-archived
1 messages Β· Page 118 of 1
In 2018?
Welcome to Australia π
I hadn't seen 10M until 3 years ago
Oh nah Australia loves copper. Half of our current fibre network is spread across now-defunct copper lines that government bought back from the ISPs when they got rid of them.
Don't question the logic, I'm sure it will come eventually.
We just have to wait a bit longer.
Isps don't even fix existing copper lines anymore, tell you to order fiber
Correct, so the government figured they'll get em cheap and build half the fibre backbone on them.
Don't think too hard, this is why we have a government.
DSL is still pretty common across large parts of the UK
Hell, some places you don't even get that
A lot of Aus is now being switched to 5G or satellite as they finally cut all the DSL lines.
I'd hate having satellite.
5G aint so bad but I'd die on satellite internet.
We had a lot of radio broadband in the late 90s, that died quickly
Sattelite broadband we have never had
But since fiber rolled out in 2004....
I gotta say though, out of every type of internet, Starlink can go F itself the most.
Just because of the impact to space
They won't have to look for a McDonalds hotspot everywhere they go
That was very handy in New York
Connected to one Starbucks and one McDonald
Wifi throughout the city
Hope you wore a condom
Is this the channel where I can ask about D1 Minis and ESPHome or is that more integrations/add-ons? I have a few issues I haven't been able to resolve and I'm not sure if they're hardware or software related.
Thanks
anybody have Feit motion sensors integrated?
Yeah, folks were asking about those the other day, a search should find details - likely in the #zigbee-archived channel
Ooooh, not sure about those
I know they do Zigbee ones, which is what folks were asking about
Oh well, good luck 
Costco's got a 3-pack for $40
Anyone know of a semi-cheap speaker that works with home assistant? I am just wanting one for my bedroom that works with my HA.
I was thinking of the sonos one from Ikea but I feel like that may be a bit overkill for a small bedroom lol
It is loud
I use it in my office
I keep the volume below 10%
But it can be adjusted easily
And sound is good, but no mic
Look at the symfonisk range from Ikea, cheaper than Sonos and sounds just as good
Iβm interested in trying out Esphome more. Iβve heard of people having 10-20+ in their homes but wondering, how do you power them all and not end up with ever plug in the house being used?
You do run out. You can get extension cables with usb ports though which can be real nice
Hi all β I have a Sonoff T1 UK Touch 3-Gang Switch that I want to use ONLY for its touch buttons/controls, not its actual relays. I successfully connected it with Home Assistant, created a flow in Node RED βit works great! Is it possible to deactivate the actual relay on the switch with a custom template yet keep the buttons working? Thanks!
does it have Tasmota on it?
Yes, it's all done
can i change its properties through SwitchMode, without actually turning the relays on and off?
I used SetOption114 1 but it seems that the Sonoff switch continues to operate as before. No new MQTT messages were sent other than those related to Power On/Off.
Wich raspberrypi's are supported?
Pi3 and better
It's possible to run it on Pi2/One/Zero, but it's not supported, and you'd be daft to do so
Last time somebody tried a zero I think the initial install and startup took over 24 hours...
I can't imagine it on anything less than a 3
To be fair, not a Pi is a better choice than any Pi
I have mine in a VM on my ESXi server, which is a Dell r610 with dual E5645 Xeons, and the performance is just comfortable.
I'm on an old i5 laptop, and it performs just fine there π
I would imagine it would be fairly slow on any Pi
It's not terrible on a Pi3 TBH - it's mostly things that do I/O that are laggy
I was never CPU or RAM limited when I ran there
took 2,5 hours for the landing page, haos on pi1 which is 50mhz less than zero i believe
actually 300mhz less than the zero π
That's better than I expected
Hello
Does anyone have recommendations for UPS? I am using an Intel NUC as hardware to run my gateways. Thank you in advance π
I tend to pick up used APC units and replace the batteries with ones from Batteries & Bulbs. Seems to be cheap and effective, but YMMV.
My cyberpower have been solid
And were insanely cheap
And with Norwegian five year warranty if I have any issue within those years I'll get it replaced
Can you provide link?
I need to order something today or tomorrow. Any chance you're also running a NUC?
I run multiple rack servers and switches on one
And a raspberry pi and a switch on the other
A 2200va and a 1400va respectively
$140 and $70 respectively
From a Norwegian vendor, so probably no use for you with links
I also run CyberPower UPSes in my server racks, but they're way overkill for a NUC
hmmm. so I ordered a Sonoff zigbee hub. now I'm wondering if that was a mistake.
Zigbee + WiFi == 
do the Zigbee USB dongles have decent range? my servers are in a shed at the back of the property
welcome to the *2mqtt world and sbc computers
Point to point range for Zigbee (and Z-Wave) tends to be in the 8 to 10 meter range - depending on what's in the way
The key there is point to point since both are mesh networks
Of course, putting your coordinators outside the house would be ... not a good choice
Eh, at the cost of bottlenecking things...
I'd wait for https://www.tubeszb.com/product/cc2652_coordinator/1 or https://www.tubeszb.com/product/cc2652_poe_coordinator/15 to come back in stock π
Sounds like #330990055533576204 / #add-ons-archived
Does anyone know if jasco in wall switches can be wired with neutral only, or no load? I have an empty slot in a gang box and want to use the in wall switch to control other smart lamps
Does anyone have these light switches? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000298926256.html?aff_platform=link-c-tool&cpt=1579460387259&sk=_sPA71V&aff_trace_key=1ea588879adf4a71b69472fcc8469bea-1579460387259-01187-_sPA71V&terminal_id=5ab3b3bf703c438dac102dcfef054d7e
Can you turn off the LED?
Or does anyone know if you can use these types of light switches with the Sonoff MiniR2?
https://www.thespruce.com/thmb/BUwP79DQL5rJfQ_Ddz7oqqQ5h3Y=/2004x1127/smart/filters:no_upscale()/200526811-001-56a5a63e5f9b58b7d0ddd35e.jpg
I have an outlet outside, underneath a porch...
Would a regular Smart Plug work? Or do I need an outdoor one?
Depends, do you like to live dangerously?
Nest giving me an E195 error. No power to R. (There is. There's also a common wire). Thinking of swapping, what is a good alternative?
Is the ecobee integration with home assistant good?
anyone running Insteon gear with HA?
Yes, it works well. You can also use the HomeKit controller integration for local control
I don't likely need most of the features of a Nest. I program it myself etc. Is there another popular option that is cheaper and allows local control like that? Or is Ecobee my best bet in terms of support
I wish it wasn't black. Gonna stick out on our light colored wall
atxbyea... what kind of issues can you face if the outlet is under a porch?
I mean, if it is extremely unlikely to get wet... what other reason is there to go specifically with an outdoor plug?
hi, just ordered a zwave USB dongle. will I be able to link my zwave switches to HA and also keep my smartthings linked to the same switches?
You may be able to as a secondary controller, but itβs not advisable. Better to move the devices over
are the Wifi RGB led strips work with HA.. anyone recommend a model that works?
You can buy any strips you want
and then buy a LED Strip controller that works with HA
as long as the prongs are compatible
I see Govee has support
ine moment
one *
I bought that, and it worked
Works with HA without issue really
I wish I had gone the zigbee route though, since I'm purchasing everything Zigbee from here on out
which usb dongle are you using, i just purchased a zwave only usb device
but i dont recommend it
I'd ask around for other recommendations....
the ConBee II is VERY sensitive to interference and requires the use of USB Extension cable, and careful placement,
so Govee lists specific model that works, but amazon doesn't list the model number. Guess I'll just try anything that says wifi/alexa
If youβre in the US, Philips Wiz is supported through a custom integration and they work well (I have over 60 Wiz lights, with a couple being strips).
Yup.
putting too much stuff on WIFI, will diminish the bandwidth for other devices
regardless of how little those other devices are actually using
Depends on what kind of equipment you have.
the interface looks nice
Router and APs. Consumer equipment will choke. However, prosumer and enterprise equipment can handle hundreds of devices easily.
I have both unifi and tp-link Omada. I have ~140 devices on my network right now.
I've been wanting to upgrade to a Tri-band router,...
Because I want the 2nd 5ghz band, so that I can use that band exclusively for PCVR Streaming to Oculus Quest
Yeah, you can probably handle around 50-60 devices with dd-wrt.
Thatβs standard for any light. π
6 Lightbulbs, 1 Desktop PC, 2 Rasberry Pis (1 acting as a NAS, the other HA), 1 Android Box acting as a DVR running TinyCam Pro, 2 FireSticks, 1 Amazon Ring, 1 LED wifi Light strip, 2 smart phones, 1 tablet, 2 laptops, Thermostat, 4 Wyzecams,
Can you send me a pic of the lovelace for this item
Hello, I want to install HA on a motorhome, I want the supervised installation, and also to be able to access the device with teamviewer for maintenance. What is the best device/installation for this use?
I have a android TVBox with termux, but I cannot install supervised there...
teamviewer for maintenance ? that sounds horrible
just use ssh, it is a linux based system
also, #330990055533576204 has specific installation rules, and if you can't follow them use #449717345808547842
Yes I know, but if the device is over the internet without fixed IP how do you SSH?....
yep, but I do not want to use that for this use right now π
but that is a you problem
π
Well
- HAOS won't be supported on termux
- Supervised might work, but is a horrible choice for ANYONE
- Managing a web based application and textfiles over teamviewer is horrible
- Use SSH tunnels if you need to reach the remote webui
- Use SSH key authentication
- Use Dynamic DNS
- Use #449717345808547842
this is the only sensible advice I can give
That will work
modern nucs can even use less power than a raspberry pi
and still have overhead
it's a lot more expensive that I was expecting...
buy used
any suggestion for NUC?
I dnt need much power/processing
wont run many automations
power consumption is critical on this situation
a pi will work
I don't like the use of SD's for that...
I have a RPI4 on desk...
what is the best install method for rpi4 with ssd?
That's down to your skills, and how much you want it to integrate with the car/van/whatever
HAOS on a VM is always an option, but if you want something that can react to dropping power levels then maybe Debian+Container is a better choice
There should be a stack of forums (and likely a few Discords) that specialise in automotive PC use
π
I've certainly seen, in the past, builds that closely monitor the health of the battery and will auto-shutdown to avoid draining it beyond a certain level
Hello folks. Hopefully someone will find a few mins to help me out. I'm in the process of buying a flat that is currently being built where the walls are still "open" and it is possible to adjust the cables & stuff. I'm a software developer and thought I'd give some of the new, cool, smart bulbs & stuff a go, however, I'm super conscious about my privacy (go figure, being a SE...) and so stumbled upon ZigBee and Home Assistant, where this is taken seriously. Anyway, TLDR of what I want to confirm right now as it's a pressing matter IRL.
Please confirm/correct my statements below, to make sure I understand how things work, hardware (electricity, cables) wise at this moment:
(1) I want switches that will be possible to be controlled locally, ie. rotating the hardware switch, and remotely, ie. through code (app, homeassistant on pi, w/e you call it, code in essence). With this I want to control the ON/OFF state and the dimness (in case of ON state, obviously) of a given circuit. That is, if I want to have 5 ceiling lights in a room and I press the harder switch, the (local) relay will be connected and the lights will turn on/off. This circuit has the same cable setup as a regular circuit with no smart switch, except the smart switch is connected a bit differently. Is this correct?
(2) Assuming the server goes down, that acts as the intermediary between the smart device(s) and the input signals (timed, remotely through app, whatever) - the hardware switches (ie. literally the button on the wall) will still turn on/off/dim the circuit. That is, if the server goes down - can I still turn on the lights by pressing the switch?
(3) Lastly I want to have a few smart bulbs, which will be in the central lamps, as well as some smart LED strips. These devices need continuous electricity and so they will not be connected to any switch-circuit, but rather have their own circuit that provides electricity 24/7. Is this correct?
The reason why I do not want to go fully "smart" is because of (2) where - in case something goes wrong with the server; I want to be able to function till it gets fixed - not revert to lightning up cables till I fix things π
Also please bear with me - my understanding of electricity is very basic, I'm not a hardware guy, but I understand the basic principle that you need a closed circuit in order for the electricity to flow and for things to function π
- switches only power on/off, dimmers can dim. wiring is identical to a classic switch but 3 way switching is more complicated with smart switches
- yes and no π
Here I talk about something like this: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Actuator-Compatible-Zigbee-Gateway-Channel/dp/B08KTH5RNY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
- they need power to be smart but it doesn have to be switchless, having no switch reduces chances of powering them off but might not be up to code
well that's a dimmer not a switch
yes, this part I understand. Basically if I know in advance "this light will be, always, smart", then I want to give it power permanently so there is no poitnless switch somewhere on the wall that can power it off by a mistake - ie. the advantage of having control over the cabling process while the walls are still opened right now
its like a computer
right, sure, but from my understanding the dimmer can control "itself" (it's local circuit) without external software. Taht is, if you plug that into the wall and turn the knob, it will dim the lights without anything external, right?
but then you can give it an input externally to dim too
dimmer does the dimming, the smarts is there only to report and receive commands
ye, exactly
its two separate modules inside that device
the zigbee part reads the state and sends commands to the IC
basically if the server dies at 4am and I wake up to go to the bathroom, I can click the dimmer, it will turn on the lights, go back to sleep, and see something is wrong with the server when I wake up and get to fix it
if you use the rotary button you control the IC
not wake up, click the switch, lights don't go up, and nothing works...
correct in majority of cases
(ie. I will see something is wrong when my smart lights don't turn on)
but if you use smart bulbs and smart switches together you're mostly depending on the smarts part
now, (4) - the dimmer, or in essence any hardware sensor/input device, is sending signals through zigbee protocol and this signal can be intercepted and acted upon by the server (eg rasberry pi) - so that I can program "when I turn on switch 10, turn on 3 smart bulbs at the same time" - where switch 10 is the dimmer for a specific circuit. So basically I click the switch on the dimmer, it will turn on its own circuit with the relay, and send signal to the rasberry which in turn will turn on the other 3 (smart) bulbs in the room, correct?
not server, coordinator. basically yes
semantics, sorry - yes of course, the software running on the server will listen to the signals and act upon it
If you make the wall switches/dimmers smart, then they will always work as expected and you can automate things
but again, just to reiterate and confirm (sorry), in case the server is down, the local circuit will still turn on (eg the 5 ceiling lights), but simply the 3 smart bulbs will not, right?
with zigbee you can bind smart bulbs with smart dimmers and not need the server part
its a tiny bit of redundancy
that's interesting - so the "I just turned on" signal/event will be broadcasted through the network, and the devices (light bulbs) are re-programmed to listen to it and turn themselves on even if the server died?
i've mostly moved to smart bulbs because i luv CCT and adaptive lighting
now that's cool π
There's also modules that sit between a dumb switch and your lights so that you can more easily handle multi-way switches
can you give an example? not sure I understand
but you also have the remote wall switches for "multiwaying"
There's a range of Zigbee, Z-Wave, and WiFi options
well, I'm in the state of walls being opened and I can do w/e I want, but I ahve to decide quickly
I'm a bit paranoid so I don't want to go "full smart" where everything is powered 24/7, probably
oh just run cat5 everywhere for future use π
and what I wrote in the points above, 1-4, is what makes the most sense to me
if i was redoing everything i'd run 12v lighting everywhere to reduce energy waste on converting everywhere from 220 to 12
so you mean to run POE everywhere? π
pretty much
again, I'm not very hardware friendly, I just know the basics I have to know
most modern lighting works on 5-24V anyway
and every smart switch has internal PSU to convert AC to DC
everything is still in retrofit stage so the smart switches and smart lights are designed to work on AC and convert to DC
right, I get the idea, but I'm pretty sure no one (wiring/electricity wise) local has any idea what the hell I'm asking them to do π
I had to spend about 1h yesterday going over things with an electrician in his 40s to get him understand that, yes, I want 24/7 electricity going into certain lights...
when i told my electrician i only want one switch for my hall light and that i will handle the multiway differently he just could not comprehend
oh, don't forget to run neutrals everywhere
I want to start my HA adventure. Ive mainly got lights, switches, motion sensor and heating smart product. But im looking at security measures and cameras. I need to choose a system to run HA on, should i get a pi4 and can that handle 3 camera streams(idk if over wifi or other yet)?
Nucs and the blue are hard to get
I found a guy that sell a pi4 8gb with 120 gb ssd and housing all connected and ha instaled for 175 euro. how does that hold up?
why?
We would probably look at a security company we know to install those anyway
because wifi sucks
oh yeah, the standard over here is to run the, what do you call it - black thick cable with 3-cables inside it, everywhere
and take only what the device needs
ie. neutral will be eveywhere
what would be better
just double check with the electrician π mine ran the 3 wires but did not connect the neutral
wired
yeah that's kinda why I also wrote the (1)-(4) points out to confirm I understand how things work so I can go over it with them then, in detail
you camera usuall needs to support rtsp to be in HA, there are ofcourse other way depending on the hardware
hardwired means having ethernet connection, they would still be IP camera's not your classic security camera
ah yea fair
i just fixed my network issues so all wired and wireless are on the same network now
so its time to build ha
but mainly need hardware to put ha on
and needs to be stable enough for cameras views
then get a real computer
just run ha from a nuc?
nuc, older laptop, server hardware... name it what you want but make sure there's processing power and memory to handle your needs
people think it can handle a lot then you realise its IO is not good enough
suprisingly much, but when you hit the ceiling it becomes a paper weight
no scalability
Let's kubernetes the F out of rasberries. An art display of rasberries mounted to the wall? π
you need to adjust your needs then
yea i know
its a low struggle
either spend a lot to future proof
or just buy a 170 euro pi setup and try ha atleast xD
170 β¬ !?!?
dahell is in that pi
that's enough money to buy used server hardware
170 euros for a rPi is insane.
is it gold plated?
Ha! That was going to be my question.
ah "No hassle"... that does cost a lot
Just no. Get a used laptop or something for the same price with the added benefit of having a battery backup built into it.
that was my reaction when I saw "Home Assistant Blue" selling for 295 eur basically
"no hassle" is expensive man
definitely
anyway, so, hardware wise, other than the "smart stuff", what do I actaully need other than the rasberry that's sitting in my drawer - I assume there is some sort of hardware module that acts as a ZigBee antena and can communicate with the smart devices?
yea i know its more on t he expensive side
thats why im struggling to choose hardware
Seriously... go to any computer shop (online or brick and mortar) and get yourself a used laptop or desktop built in the last 10 years. Laptops are better only because you don't need to have a UPS externally. But any hardware made in the past 10 years should run HA easily with room for growth.
i tried running it on a windows vm on old pc but that failed, imma try it on the same machine with linux aswell
but that just makes a lot of noise and uses space
If you have Zigbee devices (or want to get Zigbee devices), you'll want a good coordinator (basically, a router for Zigbee networks). There's some pins in #zigbee-archived that will help get you started.
Hence why I suggested getting a laptop. Low power usage and quiet. Plus, you can install linux on pretty much anything.
i found a guy selling a nuc with an older intel chip
but he told me it wouldnt hold up with a camera view
unless it was atom based, it will show camera streams fine
does it really hold up?
idk just feels weird using laptop for that in my head, but being a beginner that is
Yup. I've had a laptop running in my local setup for over 3 years now. 24x7. Granted, I did upgrade it's internals (ram, ssd, etc).
And I have it sitting on a cooling pad.
I'm running HA, Zigbee2MQTT, MotionEye, Doods, and more, on a couple of laptops that are just propped on their sides
Well, they don't need to be flat, so having them upright improves the airflow
Ahhh, ok. That's why I have the cooling pad.
The only concession I've made is that they're basically in a V between two cabinets, with the intake and exhaust lined up to avoid feedback
https://www.ebay.nl/ π
Mine is an 8 or so years old i5, it has capacity to spare
Not an Atom, 2GB+ of RAM, 100 Mb/s or better networking, not an SD card for storage
You can run HA on a Pi3 after all
Yes
how much overpay is the link/store i sent? cause it does make it easy with an fan installed
like double π
a standalone pi 4 8 gb is also 90
the ssd aint too great and is worth 25 or smth
but yea the no hassle and it being installed helps. I build pcs but never tried anything with a pi, but guess it aint much different
its mostly the same thing without much building
Clipping a Pi + SSD + Case together is easier than building a PC
yea guess so
HA runs on SSD+PI? Normally PI uses SD card, no?
True that, i dont see a lot of positive feedback on sd cards tho
depends on the amount of writings
SD cards have a short lifespan, at least the non-industrial ones do
Pi systems have been able to USB boot for years now, so you can run them from an SSD
yea so not too much overpay for the building and installing
right?
and its a good system to begin with, as far as ive read and researched
Good enough starter system if you have nothing better
But yeah, save some money and put it together yourself
makes sense
the case is also nifty, could 3d print it myself but yea
When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
they offer a full plug and play experience i guess. sadly no warranty
meh
i doubt it will be full plug and play
sound more: plug and pray and fix what doesn't work
yea fair
offer support to get it working i guess
you get warranty for the first 14 days if it arrives broken
that's just honoring eu consumer law
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
Problems with the Blue? See #330990055533576204. If your install isn't responding then see your install method channel above.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://paste.ubuntu.com/ to share code or logs
#integrations-archived would be where to ask about that
Can someone point me to a smart LED strip, ideally zigbee, that is suitable for stair steps? So say if you ahve 20 steps, you have 20 strips, and I want to control them individually
That's either 20 strips and controllers (analogue) or one WLED (digital) strip and 20 segments
analogue = every strip would have to have its own controlled (physical box?) and I guess that's a no-no for 20 strips
Analogue means that the strip is one colour/brightness/etc at a time
Digital means you can control every LED individually
So, 20 separately controlled stairs would require, for analogue, 20 separate LED strips and their controllers
20 stairs that are controlled as one wouldn't
@main garden posted a code wall, it is moved here --> https://paste.ubuntu.com/p/s7Jc795CMj/
YAML formatting matters. The second platform: dht should be - platform: dht
Anytime
anyone have recommendations for a zigbee ceiling fan controller? something like this https://www.amazon.com/Enabled-Universal-Ceiling-Premier-Control/dp/B077ZHDLY3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=thesmartcave-20&linkId=8659aced2178aeadc94c702e31107358&language=en_US
Anyone have recommendation in ir controller for mini split? I want it to be able to get the temp from the unit or have thier own sensor. I have a handful of esp32 and esp8266 on hand.. I have tried a couple ready made solutions (one recommendation from manufacturer it was aweful) tried a celio and that thing breaks if it's not connected to the cloud and I don't want that on my air conditioner
Does your broadlink support getting the current temp from the ac? I think it called idle or something of that nature
Cool I saw commands in smartir for fetching temp sensors but I also didn't think a broad link could do that since it's just actively listening. Sounds like I need to find a good write up on esp,remote ir, and temp sensors.
Nice. I needed to re-up and lcd screens anyways. Can't believe this product doesn't just exist like local API isn't alot to ask for. I legitimately think that a company could build itself on just making home automation devices that work off local.
On a recommendation from someone here, I ordered these door/windows, temp sensors, motion sensors and push buttons from the same manufacturer. They were almost too easy to add to HA. I recommend them for anyone in need of additional sensors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D37VDM3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Has anyone used these vibration sensors on a washer or dryer? https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-Vibration-Sensor-Automation-Compatible/dp/B07PJT939B
Vibration sensors aren't great indicators for newer washers or dryers (especially ones leveled properly). For most washers, a good smart outlet with power monitoring is better. If you can find one for the dryer, that would be better as well. If the washer and/or dryer are older models that do rattle around a bit, the Aqara vibration sensors are pretty good.
That's a good point. My dryer is 11ish years old and my washer is 5 or so. They are both well leveled and generally don't vibrate too much. I was curious if these sensors would be sensitive enough to pic up subtle vibrations. Sounds like an outlet w/monitoring may be the way to go. Thank you!
Worse comes to worse, you could always order one of the vibration sensors and test it out. If it works, awesome. If it doesn't, they work well as glass-break sensors as well π
That's true. My house has WAY too many windows though. lol
I only have 20, so not that bad, but it's been something in the back of mind for awhile now. I have contact sensors on them, but that really only detects open/close. In a glass break situation, they wouldn't do crap. BUT... There's nasty, pointy, slashy Holly bushes in front of all of our windows... so, if someone did want to break in through a window, it's going to hurt them on the way in. lol
Well, now you justified adding vibration sensors to all my windows... just need to get the accountant... er, the wife's approval. π
hahaha
hi....what hardware do you guys suggest for doorbell/NFC unlock that goes well with HA?
Do you use ubiquiti network gear? If so, their doorbell is great.
I'm gathering info on which way to go...ubiquiti has the doorbell and the access...but they're not integrated, unfortunately.
What do you mean? I have UniFi Protect integrated into HA. When someone rings my door bell, I get an iOS notification. I don't use their access solution though, so I can't really speak to that.
yeah I would like to have NFC door unlock too...preferably integrated with some video doorbell
How did you get this setup? I canβt find the protect integration for me to install automatic. I was originally able to get this setup through another solution named homebridge
even so, it seems to be only phone notifications. am I correct @distant dove ?
Through homebridge I get full camera audio and video in HomeKit.
Still on the NFC train, anybody have a favorite or easy NFC reader that can trigger an action? Most of the articles out there are about using your phone as the reader (put a tag somewhere, tap it, and your phone does the thing). I want to set up a thing that my phone is the tag and the reader triggers the action when certain phones tap it. (Reason - I want to trigger an action where my wifi is bad enough that it takes a while for my phone to join and Iβm impatient. Iβd rather tap my phone against the reader to trigger the action - open my garage.)
An amazon search for NFC Readers are all USB devices. Iβm going to guess Iβll need to go arduino or rPi or something but that sounds like a lot of work.
Iβm picturing something like https://www.id-enhancements.com/allegion-sm10-aptiq-smart-mini-muillion-reader/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkd7Sh4_48AIVhBx9Ch3zwwYGEAQYBSABEgJ_JPD_BwE#product-tab-pdf but less βintegrate with your legacy security systemβ and more βjust fire off a webhookβ.
Ooh, https://www.shopnfc.com/en/nfc-readers-writers/187-172-orbit-ip-ethernet-nfc-reader.html looks nice except for the 200 euro price tag.
Good timing! I just landed on the rPi pages and at $35 for a pi even if I got a standard USB nfc reader itβd still beat the pants off the things I found above.
That hat is like $14
Thanks for that link, I hadnβt found it yet and it appears to be exactly what I was imagining.
what's the most lowest power usage device i can buy for face/person recognition on a camera?
I installed HACS and a repository. I can assist with it tomorrow because Iβm about to go to bed.
You can make the notifications whatever you want. I.e. when someone rings my doorbell, I get an iOS notification and my Amazon echos announce that someone is at the door. You could also make the notifications come from HA or email.
One more thing that someone maybe can help me understand. Yesterday I mentioned that the wiring is not set in walls yet (of the flat I'm buying) and so just for my curiosity's sake, as a layman - if you have a hallway, with eg 5 dumb lights, and you have 2 smart switches/dimmers on one and and the other end:
-
When you turn on one, the other is bound to "toggle" its state? Is this done by binding (assuming the switch/dimmer supports this) or is this done through HA? Ie. you come home, you turn on the lights at the hallway -> you walk through the hallway -> you turn off the lights on the other end.
-
For my understanding's sake - how is this normally done with regular switches, not smart ones? When you press one, how does the, physical, mechanism in the other one close (relay) the circuit?
- Either
Hmm hold up, would the second switch (at the end of the hallway) be connected to the circuit at all? Wouldn't it be easier to always have 1 dimmer/switch per circuit and if you add others, just get electricity into the dimmer/swtich and when you turn it on/off/dim you send the signal to the dimmer/switch physically connected to the circuit?
If those are smart switches, generally you won't have them done with multi-way wiring (unless they're designed for that - go look at the link)
Now, whether the secondary switches can talk directly to the primary, that's a big box if "maybe"
Hence, either
But in case they cannot talk directly with each other, they can still talk through server/controller, right?
Well, they can "talk" to HA, and HA can talk to them, so sort of
Does someone know dimmers that can talk with each other - that are tested? Atm I'm looking at this one: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Dimming-actuator-channel-compatible-Gateway/dp/B08KTH5RNY/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=icasa%2Bdimmer&qid=1622115670&sr=8-5&th=1
I know we have https://zigbee.blakadder.com/zha.html but it's maybe someone has existing setup that is tested and can suggest some to me π
Wouldn't it make sense for icasa to manufacture/sell a dimmer with actuator and without one? but from the outside they look the same...? so that when you rotate the "fake" dimmer, it is bound to the real dimmer (one per circuit) that has the actuator inside?
Or am I completely misunderstanding the concept π€
You're not, but you're also talking about something that's not likely to sell in great volume
Right, but in my case, what should I do? Whenever I want 2+ dimmers per circuit do I connect them physically into the circuit? That's a bit of a waste of money I think, surely there is extra wiring and extra actuator that's not needed
One smart dimmer/switch per connected light
2x dimmers on a circuit won't work with standard dimmers
I mean at the end of the day it's not that bad, because that's probably the normal way to do things (wiring wise), and buying 4 extra dimmers or w/e is not a big cost, but I just find it redundant, tha's all
OK, so at point A I have one smart dimmer, at point B I also want a dimmer controlling the same circuit, how do I go about that?
like you need special 2way switches you'd need special 2way dimmers
which i don't think there are in the "smart" world
so what's the normal way to do it? surely this is a common problem... having to control the same circuit from point A and point B, where you want to have dimmers on both ends
so you can physically turn the wheel
probably central dimming unit with two controllers, i never saw or did a multiway dimmer installation
Or modules
So a central dimming unit would be something like this? https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07L5H4KJM/?tag=blakadderzigbee0a-21&th=1
from my understanding that's inside the wall, not visible at all
i can only see a momentary switch connector on those
momentary
what does this mean?
pushbutton or not a toggle switch
right
sure, but I would think it's possible to connect to this device through zigbee protocol, to control it...
yes you can use any remote
remote = controller, no? in this sense:
probably central dimming unit with two controllers, i never saw or did a multiway dimmer installation
I feel like I'm trying to shoehorn my basic understanding of these stuff into a solution, but there must be something for this...
One room, with two entrances/exits. X dumb bulbs in the room. Both entrances/exists should have dimmers, physically, on the walls so that you can turn on/off/dim the lights as you wish
not very smart π
And they should look identical, so you don't have 5 types of dimmers/switches on the walls...
why is that
the point of smart lighting is that you don't need to physically control it from everywhere
whether the actual physical hardware (dimmer wheel) is phsyically connected by the wires to the actual circuit, is not important. I'm asking how to do it so taht it feels natural
central dimmer unit and controllers
right
or smart bulbs and controllers
can you link me some controller in this context? I assume it's a physical "wheel" that has electricity wired to it (or battery) and that sends/receives signals
wheel or button remote
like the Ikea ones
maybe like this https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Elko_4523420.html
or classic Ikea https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Ikea_ICTC-G-1.html
The challenge is that for your use you need to find ones that either support Binding or you simply put HA in the middle and let it handle it - which won't be as smooth when it comes to dimming
ye but that goes in the direction of having 10 different "devices" on the walls for the same function (dimming, wheel) which is not nice (looking)
Well, depends... you may not have to attach a load
yep, and as someone who has 0 experience with this I have no idea how to even check if a device is bind-able
schneider electric does everything with a unified plate look in mind
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/Eco-Dim.07.html supports Association on the Z-Wave side, so maybe the Zigbee side supports binding - but documentation on that kind of thing is ... lacking
OK, let me put it another way. If you had an existing living room with traditional on/off switches, two switches, one on each end, how would you turn this into a dimmable living room where you can dimm it with either of the switches (dimmers) on each end?
i wouldn't π
my living room lights are on adaptive lighting
if i really need to change the brightness i tell google or whip out my phone
Other than a hallway, I've never seen a room where the lights can be dimmed from opposite ends
Personally I'd have a single dimmer, and automate it
everyone thinks its cute to have dimming/rgb/whatnot but uses it 0.5% of the time
usually its just light on/ light off
Anywhere we've got automated lighting, we do manual control almost never
At most it's on/off
unless you're quite OCD about the exact dim level
That's what tuning your Adaptive Lighting settings are for π
mine are default, no one complains or even notices
Yeah, I've set ranges for rooms
because I want some rooms to be brighter or dimmer
that's it
That's what I've done
i wish they'd merge AL in HA already
πͺ
I've also set different levels for different bulbs in the same room, so that the apparent brightness matches
oh tell me about it
ages ago i spent days on it thinking i was doing something wrong
I tried it for a week in the beginning
gave up
moved to Circadian Ligthing
never looked back
I don't expect that'll happen... https://github.com/home-assistant/core/pull/40626#issuecomment-835594561
From an architectural perspective, I'm not really sure if this should even be an integration level. In general, the functionality offered by this integration (and the Circadian Lighting / Flux integrations as well) are really useful and used by the community in all kinds of forms.
I might even dare to say, that functionality like this should be more embedded in Home Assistant Core itself.
Does look like the author of that and Circadian may get together and work on things though π€
sorry had to go afk; so you are saying to have a dim controller in the walls, and only regular (smart) on/off switches everywhere that are bound to the dimmer? or what's the setup like? I assume you have to have a dimming control unit in order to have adaptive lightning, unless you have smart bulbs everywhere
I agree - 99% use case is just turn on/off, that's why I looked for dimmers that support "on/off" functionality, but also have the physical wheel
yes yes....that's what I meant...the notifications are good. but it doesn't have 2 way talk or video, so it's not usable as a video doorbell, unless you use the ubiquiti app...but the ubiquiti app won't allow to open the door either
would you mind explaining what adaptive lightning is?
right; but as this changes colors it requires smart bulbs, right?
dumb, dimmable, lights are not enough
changing colors includes dimming
some bulbs even change colour when they dim, even without colour being controllable
philips has a few of those
yes those I saw
I was referring to adaptive lightning
I would think that requires smart bulbs (which of course can be dimmed, but more importantly change color)
I use mostly IKEA Tradfri CT bulbs
I have three RGB lights in total
and 1 smart switch
Adaptive, for dimming, will work fine with dimmers - it just can't change the temperature of the light itself
OK, so I can see the software side of things, that's not my worry, but, hardware wise:
- circuit with dumb, dimmable, lights (eg the philips ones that change warmth, let's say)
- dimming control unit that's inside the walls, and not visible (???)
- smart on/off switches where needed, not physically wired to the circuit, but bound to the dimmer (???)
You come to the room, toggle (physically) switch - and what happens?
A signal is sent somewhere and something happens, or not
If Binding is supported then the dimmer receives the on/off signal
If not, HA does, and any automation you've written runs
That makes sense. And lastly - does a dimmer have on/off state or does it only have a sense of 0-100 scale? That is, does a dimmer remember that last time it was "on", it had 70% brightness set, so the next time it receives "turn on" signal from the switch, it will turn on at 70%?
I know that through software side of things, ha, you can probably intercept the signal and do whatever you want based on it, including adaptive lightning, but I'm curious how advanced can the binding be
If the binding is only "on/off", can the dimmer receive periodic info from ha on what brightness it should be at a time? So that the lights turn on/off faster as they don't have to communicate through ha, but they also turn at a correct brightness, as the dimmer's settings are periodically set to whatever brightness ha is saying it should go at - given the sun's position etc. Or is that not a thing? This sort of binding & ha
The more I read and discuss about dimmers + dumb lights, the more tempted I'm to go smart all the way. Everything seems easier... from dimming itself (funnily enough), to turning things on/off, to wiring...
But I have this paranoia that "what if" things to wrong, ie. controller, HA, dies and will take me XYZ hours to get up and running, that I won't be able to turn on the lights at all
in that case, just burn the furniture
Depends entirely on "the dimmer" - you need to stop thinking that these things are all identical. It's like cars, or phones, or ... anything else. They all behave differently
Binding can also be levels, but again it depends on the specific devices
And that is why smart switches/dimmers is 100% better than smart lights
Honestly, it sounds like you're trying to boil the ocean/eat the elephant here. Rather than trying to solve everything right now, prepare the house for the future solution (you've already been given a load of advice on that topic, and there's even more on this on the forum). That gives you time to start small and learn as you go.
Alternatively, get in a professional/experienced local who can sit down with you and get things working the way you want
I thought you'd have smart switches and smart lights? in one solution, so that the switch will be bound to X lights that will get turned on/off, in case (or paranoia) server explodes (?)
easier said than done π¦ I live in a small town of a small country that is not very technologically friendly as most of the consumer base simply cannot afford these things (or rather, have so little disposable income that it doesn't cross their mind to spend it on these things)
Indeed. I'm just trying to wrap my head around things, so I know what to tell the electricians on how to do things. Basically there are 2 solutions that I think of right now, wiring wise:
(1) Everything is 1 circuit, everything is smart, not future proof; ie. cannot take out smart lights, replace them with dumb lights, and smart switches -> dumb switches.
(2) Everything is split into circuits as if you had dumb lights/switches, except there will be smart switches/lights everywhere, meaning it will behave like 1 circuit in a sense that electricity will flow everywhere all the time, except smart lights will get turned on when requested. Future proof, as I can always throw out the smart switches/lights and turn the circuit into a dumb one. Now, whether I go with smart lights and smart switch, or dumb lights and smart dimmer/switch, that's not relevant to wiring of the specific circuit... (obviously cannot go dumb switch with smart lights and expect them to work when dumb switch is off)
Dive into the forum threads, but basically run neutral to every light switch and then you're future proof
from my understanding - yes, kind of future proof. If you go with dumb switches you cannot then separate one of the bulbs from the circuit and make it smart, and expect it to work when the dumb switch is turned off, as that's not physically possible (but it would work when the circuit is turned on)
so what I'll be probably doing is smart bulbs + remote controllers (let's not call it smart switch, as a smart switch also interacts with the electricity in a given circuit) and then bind it up (in case it's possible) & turn on/off/have dimness settings there etc. These controllers will be where the dumb switches would be, so that I can take them any time and replace them with dumb/smart switches, and smart bulbs with dumb bulbs, in case I decide so in the future...
Does anyone know of smart 12V DC current/energy meters? Zigbee, wifi, diy?
Diy with INA21x current sensor
Thanks, I'll look into that
Seems pretty great with ESPHome support too. Might end up doing that
How much current can these handle? I can't seem to find that in the specsheet or am I misunderstanding how these work? I'm looking at the INA3221 atm. I can continue in DIY if no one has a simple answer π 1.6A if I understand it correctly and if I want more I need a lower resistance shunt?
True. I have not tried messing with the 2 way talk. I just have an actionable iOS notification that opens the Protect app when clicked.
in the meantime, I found a unifi protect in HACS, which deals with a lot of camera stuff....but not 2 way audio
Yeah, that's what I have been using. I can take a look for audio passthrough, but it will take a me a couple days before I report back.
no worries....but from what I read in the readme, saw nothing like that
Well, that stinks. Would be a great feature to have. The RTSP video loads very fast, compared to the Protect app.
yeah I only saw the ptotect app....it takes like 3-4 secs to load...and the 2 way audio has ~2secs delay
Sigh. If you find something before I do, please post it. π
I am working on getting smoke detectors setup. Spoiler Alert: they are annoying and need templates created. lol https://www.firstalertstore.com/store/products/z-wave-smoke-and-carbon-monoxide-alarm-zcombo-g.htm
sure...will do
@distant dove does the video have sound? if so, it just needs 1 way audio
It does not. At least, not how I use it. Let me check.
It does!, @tidal pollen
I've always just used it for the video. lol
well that makes it easier....only 1 way audio missing
There is an audio icon in the HA entity, but no mic.
And dis anyone got some sort of integration with the unifi Access hub?
Anyone seen this before ? Aqara Smart Scene Panel Switch S1 3.95 inch Touch Screen APP Siri Voice Control Work Apple HomeKit for Smart Home
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKCISMp
yes
Since it act also a gateway
I was wondering how to integrate it into HA
I want to use HA on my tablet and phone and also uses these aqara display in my room
I use zb2mqtt for their devices, the devices will be shown in HA but not the aqara device ui
Oh thanks for the help
Let me look into the doc
I need a door lock. I don't have zigbee or z-wave (yet).
can anyone recommend a door lock that'd integrate well with HA and a USB adapter for my (docker) HA installation?
Hello! Anyone know of a connected version of this? Could be a module, switch, plug or anything else really! Basically I want to have smart, safe dimmer functionality inline at mains voltage (ie not behind a wall plate). Inline Dimmer Switch LED Cord Dimmer Trailing Egde Dimmer 220-240V 3-100W Rotary LED Dimmer (Black) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08YJ8HBNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H3ABPS6MC4ZXA9B6WG11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hello.
Which is a good display with touch for ac control which a thermostat?
I already have a universal ir blaster.
Though id add a touch screen in the wall
I see many tuya cheap touch screen thermostat but not sure if it will work with hass
So I picked up an RTL SDR USB dongle and and a little confused as to how to set it up to read local data. Most guides I've read are about rPi setups and using rtl-rpi... but I haven't been able to find anything regarding a core setup. Any links I might be able to follow? I already have Mosquitto set up and working quite well. My main priority is to make sure everything is set up and ready to be able to read data from weather sensors (Accurrite Weather Tower).
rtl-pi i believe natively supports mqtt, so you'd just push your mqtt messages to your mosquitto. but afaik rtl-pi would need to be run on a separate pi unless you're using docker or w/e
i set one up this way to read old simplisafe sensors over the air because they're encrypted.
is there anything super low cost and quiet (preferably passively cooled or single board) that can run doods well as a standalone device?
my pi4 running has chokes on it.
Get a Coral board/stick
Anyone?
the one you make yourself π
Lol
@tranquil whale posted a code wall, it is moved here --> https://paste.ubuntu.com/p/NWRhxkQqFp/
π¦
Yeah, neither we nor the bot like walls of text...
Last month I was also looking for in-wall 120V touch screens. Tuya is not an option for me as I don't want my IoT network connected to the cloud. There are few options.
The only ready-made option I could find was the "Lanbon L8 5 in 1 LCD Touch Switch." It can be flashed with tasmota. I'll let you decide on if the front end seems functional enough for you.
Then there's the Wink Relay. It's a 2-gang mini-tablet running android that will also control 2 loads. Can be setup so it's 100% offline.
The HA SwitchPlate is an option if you're willing to assemble from a kit.
Another option is to wall-mount a tablet in front of a recessed outlet. A ton of people make wall mounts, but they are a niche product.
Find supporting links here: https://paste.ubuntu.com/p/NWRhxkQqFp/
Hmmm... I felt slighted by the bot because it was a comprehensive reply. I can respect the community's wishes though
Oh, yes, absolutely, I'm in the wrong here. I don't disagree with the policy and I completely trust that the rule is there for good reason. I just had a reaction, hah
It's all good
Thanks for the response but i need thermostat which is my main goal. Display is just complimentary feature
Ah! I didn't understand that you wanted a thermostat unit with touch display controls
This server is all about Home Assistant
If it's supported by HA and supported by that integration then HA can expose it to HomeKit, within the limits listed there
@drifting grove
Tasmota is not an option for me as I don't want my IoT network connected to the cloud. There are few options.
tasmota doesn't connect to the "cloud"
I see so many display thermostat wifi based with tuya.
Most of them are for water heater and boilers.
I just need its temperature sensor and On off button to pass command to hass
your question is not accurate or maybe not well explained
I think the question answers itself
If it is not compatible that means its not compatible isnt it ?
if there was any other way around then it would be somewhat compatible
you can try the closest integrator for that device and see if you can get it to work
Thanks Tony, but not running the RTL SDR on a pi and honestly, trying to avoid it.
So Iβve got HA running on a VM on an old laptop and it will work fine for some days. Then after a while the zigbee devices wonβt work. I think it may be due to usb connectivity issues with the conbee(as sometimes I hear the disconnect and reconnect sound). Is anyone has had a similar issue how has it been rectified? Would suggest moving to a pi instead?
If you're running #330990055533576204 they may be able to help over there, since it may depend on your choice of VM software too
Awesome Iβll check that out, thanks
I'm currently using a fire10hd(2019) with kiosk browser as a wall mount. Is there any apps I can use you control the charging so that it stays within a window (40-80%)?
isn't charging something that happens at the hardware level and not the software level?
I'd be fine with a hardware fix idea as well, but I know for example, on my rooted android phone I can control the charging
but root is an issue with this tablet so just curious if any software options, and if not a hardware option will work as well. Just trying to see if anyone has done anything similar
from my understanding there is risk of fire when you have the tablet charging/connected to charger and it's at 100% all the time
battery controllers have that figured out since a long time
if it catches fire its a manufacturing fault.
and it can always catch fire, independent of charge state
you are more likely to make it catch fire by never letting it charge to 100%
hmm gotcha. Thanks! Always prefer less work!
I am using some Gosund smart plugs, set up through the Tuya app and Tuya integration. Would the Gosund smart wall outlet work just the same? I don't see a lot of mention of smart wall outlets in my Google searching.
anyone know of a dimmer switch that supports transitions. i had zwave GE ones that used to but got depreciated, i ordered some tplink kasa smart ones but they apparently arent capable in HA.
I'm Thinking of connecting the raspi 4b to a powerbank and connect the powerbank to the wall outlet. To create a failsafe when the power is cut off. Would this be a good idea and what powerbank should I use
I read allot good things about Anker but never had one
please put all of it in a fireproof case at the end
If they're not designed for that kind of use, bad things may happen
@elder rune Well I read some reviews and it looks like it connects just fine to home assistant.
Or buy a Samsung tab a7. It's pretty cheap and Samsung have build in some features like the ability to let it only charge to 85% and keep it at that level.
After setting it up and rebooting it shows 100% full when it is at 85%.
@rocky tapir Have you looked into Inovelli?
I haven't. Just had a lutron caseta in my hand at store... But did a quick Google search and HA doesn't seem to do transition with it either. Looking at WeMo maybe... Going insane trying to find a dimmer that does the only main functionality I want in it
hmm there are speed parameters with the inovelli switches so I would think it should allow for transition
I have a few but haven't tried that yet
There are speed parameters in the casa smart dimmer as well but you just can't access them in HA
I really want to do a 30-minute transition but I would settle with a 10-minute one built into the dimmer but I just don't know how to make it do that on its own by feeding a command nor do I think it's possible
On the plus side though they do react way better than the Z-Wave switches I had in there which would intermittently not work so at least I'm winning on one thing
Has any tried the aqara buttons relatively exposed outside (as a doorbell)?
Reckon itβll die in minutes/days?
Why would you think that?
I don't have buttons outside, but I do have contact and motion sensors.
Because I canβt see any mention of waterproofing and havenβt actually got one yet to gauge
Ahhhh, yeah, I see what you mean now. You would need to waterproof it somehow.
I get that itβs inappropriate, was just wondering before delivery if itβs feasible
Possibly pinched before dying π
Yeah, honestly, I'd just go with a regular doorbell camera setup.
Or maybe a #diy-archived solution.
Hi I am interested in the Eurotronic Comet wifi radiator valves. In this post https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wifi-radiator-valve-thermostat-eurotronic-comet-wifi/260038 there is talk about an API coming available. However this is nit official and therefore I think uncertian. I was thinking of buying one to try it out and see if I can reverse engineer the protocol between the android app and the device. Has anyone got experience in how such devices would work and it this is even feasable?
my Home Assistant device, which runs off a RPi4 is acting very slowly, like 4 minutes to load the dashboard slow, are there any tools which can be used to find out what the source for the slowness is, because i re-installed it 3 months ago and at the time it was running perfectly. thanks in advanced
There's been some grumblings about the 2021.6 version being slow for some people.
it's just the magnitude of the slowness which is weird, sometimes the dashboard wont even load because the browser times out
I'm on 2021.2.3, so idk if it's that
Hmmm... What install method are you on and are you using the default db (recorder: settings)?
Install method is Home Assistant OS, and idk how to check that second one
If you don't know, then we can assume your using the built-in sqlite default settings (which is typically fine). In the past 3 months, how much have you added to your dashboard? Are you seeing device slow-downs as well? Things like automations not firing or lights/switches not able to be toggled or missing events or anything like that?
Device slowdowns are what originally made me re-install it (as well as a corrupted SD card). So at that point i got a new high quality SD Card, and it worked perfectly for a while, but now its started hugely slowing down yet again
I haven't added anything new to my dashboard in that time, like at all
the slowdowns do kinda knock-onto addons like Deconz which cause the zigbee network to slow down a lot
Hmmmm... sounds to me more like a possible hardware issue more than anything else. Personally, I'd ditch the SD card and get either a quality SSD or thumb-drive (with the former being preferred). Plus, how many add-ons are you running?
But, sans the SD card issue, let's talk about your add-ons... so, Deconz for one... what else?
my enabled addons are: deConz, Mosquitto MQTT Broker, File Editor, Terminal & SSH
I also have quite a dew disabled addons but i think im right in saying that wouldnt affect perf
Yeah, I agree... that's a tiny amount (compared to what I've seen some people run lol)
yeah, but if i were to have a lot of addons i'd run it on something more beefy than an RPi
So, out of curiosity... do you have a spare rPi laying around that you can pop the SD card into and test on?
Got another 4 lying on my desk right here, but its late at night right now so i dont want to go and start messing around with the setup while my flatmates are asleep (because there's quite a lot of stuff there lol)
is there any way to see if there are specific things in HASS which could be using resources
apart from running htop or smth
You could use the profiler integration.
But, I'd check to see if it's a hardware issue as well.
okay, thank you, i'll give that a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes
If I'm using an HA on a Raspberry Pi with an SDCARD, should I still move to MariaDB for recorder or stick with SQLite
Move to MariaDB. Much more stable and less taxing on your rPi.
Ah, no. Get a good SSD or thumb-drive and ditch the SD card.
Hmmm I'm maxed out on USBs
you should exclude anything you don't care about, especially things that bounce around a lot or record things like the time or sunrise/sunset, or whatever
Things you don't really care about history-wise? Personally, I only track temperature, motion and contact sensors. Lights, switches, locks, etc... don't care. Plus, I run InfluxDB as well.
I have a 8TB HDD plugged into my USB3 and bluetooth & conbee dongles on my USB2
even better, just include what you care about
every so often I go into the History tab and look for bars with a zillion colored stripes and target that for exclusion
that's pretty much all I use the History tab for
Prime example on what not to do
Yep, thatβs the one
I should fix that really
it's actually an uptime sensor so it's supposed to be a graph π€
is there actually a difference in terms of database performance whether it's stored as text sensor or continuous data?
Does anyone know of a smart outlet that will allow me to run an automation based on how much power is running thru it?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
but there are lots of ZWave, Zigbee, wifi options to monitor power and interface with HA
What good wifi ones are there? (US)
My bad, I meant to write tuya not tasmota
I may well be in the wrong channel, please point me in the right direction if I am.. I have a bunch of Arlec brand sockets (all flashed with tasmota), some have power monitoring and some, the cheaper sort, don't. I only use the cheaper non-power monitoring ones for devices with a fixed load. e.g. a heater or a bulb that uses a constant wattage while on. I would love to be able to get Home Assistant to treat these sockets as "virtual" power monitoring sockets, if I preconfigure a known load/wattage.
If anyone has done anything like this, or has any ideas where I should start, please say π
use tuya convert and install tasmota
Do I need a hub for an Ikea dimmer switch?
Yes... ish. You need a Zigbee controller.
Oh okay, can you recommend one? Is it intuitive?
Check out the pins in #zigbee-archived. Intuitive? Mostly, yes. But, the #zigbee-archived channel has a LOT of experts that can walk you through the basic setup of either ZHA (the built-in Zigbee handler in HA) or Z2M (Zigbee2MQTT).
Anyone have experience with troubleshooting bluetooth? I'm running homeassistant OS. It doesn't seems to find any and putting debug on bluetooth_tracker doesn't yield much help tbh
(please tag me)
How did you install HAOS @sonic vale ?
If in a VM you'll need to pass the Bluetooth device through after all
Yeah, it's installed in a VM. All usb ports are currently passthroughed to the VM. The NUC itself got built in bluetooth. But I added a dongle as well
Does the Supervisor show the Bluetooth device?
How do I tell?
Look in the hardware menu?
@sonic vale When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
See #330990055533576204 if you need help with that
Yeah, on it. Things are where they used to be, so it's taking a bit longer
lay it out people, zigbee wired light switches or shelly's behind my existing switches? what would you do and why is one better than the other?
what is the difference? afaik shelly is also wired. me confused
i do both π
IMO Zigbee > WiFi, purely because it's not WiFi π
one would be replacing the entire wall plate, the other is just putting a device in behind the wall
also zigbee v wifi
and having a propper switch, not a touch thing
You can get Zigbee modules, just like the Shelly
nothing legal here I don't think
there's also wired wifi toggle switches
options are there, rest is between your nanny and you
fines start at $10,000 AUD for touching a power point without an electrical license
that's why you get a sparky
installing something that is not certified here not only comes with bigger fines, it voids your insurance
thats true
Installing a lightbulb can technically get you fined in Victoria
Found the hardware info. It looks like it find at least one of them https://pastebin.com/N2NeTZQN
@sonic vale When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
I'm not your personal support bot - you don't have to tag me in every response π
Sorry
yeah, thanks unions...
Will HA complain (in debug) about no available bluetooth devices if you configure
device_tracker:
- platform: bluetooth_tracker
Without actually have one?
I'm pretty sure, yes. I ran into errors with a real controller being unavailable through docker all the time
Why would you be running the integration without a device?
(but now room assistant is doing my Bluetooth tracking on a bunch of other devices)
Does Lutron have a dual switch in their Caseta line?
Well I'm to troubleshoot the bluetooth. It doesn't register any devices. I've tried running the service manually as well. According to the log it does scan.
I'm actually trying to troubleshoot mi flora, but those are a lot slower with updates. So assumed if i can get scanning to work. Those would as well
Anyone have thoughts about the Phillips Hue integration vs linking bulbs directly to my HUSBZB-1 combo stick? Trying to figure out any cons, I'd love to ditch the hub entirely
Should be fine so long as your Zigbee channel is 11, 15, 20, or 25. The only cons would be that you would be relying on mains-powered repeaters in your mesh (bulbs are not great repeaters).
Interesting, would it matter that my space is a 600sqft square? So there shouldn't really be a coverage issue
You might still want a repeater or two as even though it's a small space, you have to factor in walls and other things that will diminish your line-of-sight signal
Any recommendations? I haven't used one before
Basically any mains powered device can serve as a repeater with some exceptions. Even if you buy a couple of smart plugs that you never use, that'll still help out your mesh. You can check https://zigbee.blakadder.com/ for devices and ask around in #zigbee-archived as well.
Very cool, I'll check that out. Thank you!
A few cons worth mentioning:
~~ Hard to update the bulbs. ~~ Apperantly not appicable anymore
No native hue integrations, directly connect to google home, hue sync on pc, hue sync box and what not
What do you mean about native hue integrations?
Both ZHA and Z2M support OTA updates of Hue devices. As for the integrations, Iβm not sure I follow.
so I installed a usb zwave device and enabled the Zwave: in config. how do I use this thing now?
I used a different one, not sure what to put for the URL on this when you install it
also let me add that I am using Container on synology which makes it more difficult
not even sure if the zwave usb is even loaded
#zwave-archived is a better place for this
#449717345808547842 message
π€£π€’π€¦
So I have a bit of a problem with a esp8266 powered mqtt binary Sensor I built (It uses the PubSubClient library). It works perfectly fine, but after a few hours when nothing happened, it just stops working. Is there some kind of standby mode I have to disable, or what could be the problem?
Hi there, I've been trying to get Home Assistant work on my Samsung family hub. When I open the page on the Samsung browser if takes me to the inlog screen. After inlogging it will only display a blank page with the blue bar being empty on top. There's no troubleshooting I can do on the browser, as the settings are very limited. I've had no success finding a fix online. The device is running Tizen 4. Does anyone know of a way? I was planning on using the family hub as my main dashboard
Can anyone recommend any wide rocker light switch covers to make a dumb switch smart? I would prefer not to replace any of the existing switches right now, nor can I easily replace my light with a smart bulb.
I know the Lutron Aurora and the Third Reality Smart Light Switch exist, but these are made for either a toggle or an American style rocker, while were I live these types of wide rockers are more common: https://i.imgur.com/23bJlm9.jpg
As you can see, they have no screws either, but something I can cover using double sided tape should work.
with voice assistant - Am I better off going ada or perusing down Siri vs Alexa (google is out)
I have Alexa but feel that I want to strive towards a slightly less "amazon" approach in the household
Hello! Iβm having issues setting up bluetooth_le_tracker and the custom component ble_monitor on my RPi4 with HassOS (SSD boot). See errors here: https://github.com/custom-components/ble_monitor/issues/388 β¦ any idea what this could be / how I can debug further? Thanks ππ»
i want to monitor the temp of a heating element. what hardware is out there to achieve this? is there any way to target an area away from the sensor with like a laser or something similar like those temp guns?
I use a db18b20 dallas sensor in a metal enclosure to get the temp of my watercooling radiator
not sure if this is what you are looking for but the temp of the rad is pretty close to the water temp in the loop
I want to get a smart plug but the one recommended to me (aqara) requires a hub I don't have. is there something better than Conbee 2 for has on a pi4? the reviews on Amazon make it sound like it is flakey but idk if that's user error
hi guys, im running home assistant on a RPi 4 and have some problems regarding high cpu usage. After reboot the cpu sits at 5% but after about 24h it spikes up to 30%. how do i debug this?
and since its a passivly cooled rpi the temperatures rises from about 55 to 70 which conerns me.
core-2021.6.2
Would a dual core nuc suffice for home assistant + jellyfin media server and maybe some more containers? How much ram do you guys recommend?
i am looking for a solution to have a 14 inch touchscreen as a wallpanel. I could either get just that or a 14 inch display with some ir frame (which is cheaper). Anyone has experience? I am looking basically for the cheapest option, since its only a prototype
Yeah I've got a fairly old dual core nuc with 8gb that's comfortably running HA, jellyfin and like 20 other containers
U know the specific model? I was looking at the NUC7CJYH
I'm running it as a container in a vm on my NUC5i5RYK model (2cpu, 4 threads) without any troubles
I am running esxi on the nuc, and about 4 vm's, of which one is running the HA container
so the NUC7CJYH should be more than enough
Ok thanks, I'll go with 8 gb ram then probably
Hello, I'm running hassio on pi 3 with sd card and it randomly stops working. NIC lights indicates its doing something but fing network scan shows its not connected. I have a feeling the sd card is on its way out. How do I verify that? Or what do you think is the problem?
Ah nvm I take that back, all signs are pointing to a potential memory leak
Is it worth it to overclock a Pi4 running HassOS? Safe settings?
if you're trying to improve perf, I would look first to an SSD before trying to overclock
Pi4 already runs pretty hot, and HA doesn't take much CPU
hi there, not sure if this is the right channel, but hardware is sort of closest to it. So I have a Hue bridge and some hue lights. I would like to provide at least minimal functionality in case the hue bridge or the home network is down (i am running all local mode no cloud). What is nice about the Hue's is that by default if you power cycle them they will start to light up so you can sort of use them like any dumb light bulb and just flick a switch to turn them on or off. However under normal circumstances i would want this switch to keep them powered and just send a signal which just turns them off but keeps the line powered. Only when no bridge/network is available the switch should fall back to dumb behaviour. Has anyone find a neat solution for this thing?
gotcha. already have the SSD. was just curious.
Hi guys, im trying to upgrade my network and im looking into a new router
my current router is having trouble managing 60+ wifi device
i read about unifi ones but my home is not wired for cat5/6 (and running cables in wall is a no no)
Any ideas what i could potentially get?
im currently runnning an asus ac-3100
Hold out for a router that supports Wifi 6E (not 6, but 6E specifically), or move to a mesh system with multiple points to balance the load. Make sure to use a mesh system that has a supported integration though for better features. I'm using a Unifi setup and have over 200 wireless devices active. Most of them are on their own dedicated VLAN without internet access.
@golden quail thanks for your insight, im wondering how much of a performance gain ill get to switch to a mesh vs my current one right now.
i need quite alot of datarate because i stream my nvidia shield wirelessly through 5g
Most mesh setups work great on the 5GHz bands. Even doing 4K video streams, you wouldn't be able to max out the bandwidth on a mesh if set up correctly. I think a 4K stream is something like 38Gb/s at the top end. A mesh set up could easily handle closer to 170Gb/s even on the early mesh routers like the google wifi hockey pucks.
Something else you could do is use RG6 Moca converters to extend your local network without ripping up walls.
thanks sounds mesh is the way to go for my case
Currently looking at Amplify HD
ANyone have any recommendations on Outdoor ZIgbee outlet?
Preferably one with at least two outlets
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
The country matters because electrical standards vary across the world...
Options for the EU aren't a good choice for the USA, for example π
I need a recommendation for an Outdoor Zigbee Outlet, for use in the USA, with two outdoor outlets connected to it
I see someone took less than 9 hours to answer already π Mine's a DN2820FYK though, much older but a similar spec. Keep in mind though, it can't handle transcoding at all; one of the other containers I run is actually Emby alongside Jellyfin; I prefer JF but Emby has better compatibility for direct play to the Android app.
It also runs Grafana fine, but Grafana-renderer makes it chuggg
i lost my air conditioner remote, so i can't learn the commands from the original remote with my broadlink. do i have any options for sourcing the codes online and converting them somehow?
Thankfully not a problem I've had but it looks like https://community.home-assistant.io/t/http-mqtt-lirc-bridge-for-broadlink-devices-supports-pronto-hex-codes/130313 could help with conversion but I'm not sure about sourcing them in the first place.
Anyone know if the Withings Sleep Tracker mat 'in_bed' entity actually works? Mine has been unavailable since I first set it up π€
Pi4 8 gb with ssd or a nuc? Nucs are generally more expensive right?
and generally better
Any second hand PC/laptop, other than those with Atom, from the last decade will be better than a Pi
problem is that all old laptops and pcs in my house are from 2009 xD
but ill still give that laptop a try
Depending on what's in them they may still be fine
As long as it's a 64bit CPU with more than one core, and there's at least 2 GB of RAM...
I'm using a Pi 8gb for mine and it seems to be working beautifully
If you've got budget/space for a full PC you'll definitely have more room, but you can def get by with a Pi
rPi3B+ or greater (the 4 would be better).
The more the better. I would go with 4 at a minimum just to give you some room to grow.
You could also go with something like a NUC or any other x86/64 based hardware as well.
Hi guys. My message in the forum was ignored. Could you pls help me and explain why it happened? How can I refrase it here or in the forum? https://community.home-assistant.io/t/looking-for-advices-to-upgrade-an-existing-home-assitent-system/311508 It's question regarding choosing the hardware
There are many existing threads on the topic, which may not be helping you
It's also a very long post, which will discourage a lot of people
About to switch from Google WiFi to UDM. Any good tips?
Anyone aware of any programmable/home assistant friendly hot water recirculation pump? I'd like to be able to set one up to recirculate only at times we generally need hot water. (like 6-7 AM) rather than 24/7
I just use a Zwave switch to turn the dumb pump on and off as needed
Make sure that you've taken a note of all your static DHCP leases...
UDM or UDM Pro? I prefer having them split up personally, easier to integrate into my network and I get to pick where I mount the AP
I grabbed a USG, a switch and an AP instead and it ended up costing me about $200 less
UDM, no pro. Picked that over USG for performance π
Fair, it's probably much easier to set up too!
Not sure I have any. Guess time will tell π€―
is it good idea to split it? How do you think? Btw, thanks for an answer, I answered myself
Well, if you ask one question per topic, you're more likely to get an answer
Writing an essay... 
I just don't know how to be short in this case. Because we're discussing about system overall, and if you're not very familar, you can ask wrong questions
and because a lot of things connected each other
Well, I'd say most of that doesn't really "connect"
You also listed a lot of later
LCD screen to show information from HA
That's later, and doesn't "connect" to anything else there
For example, your advice to use Xiaomi devices. It's still not clear for me, can I connect them to my HA instance using HUE hub or not...
@proven harness When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
You can't, but that's why we have three #zigbee-archived options that are sane
Or you could buy a Xiaomi hub if you really liked suffering
We tried usb stick and reflash it, but it works really unstable
@proven harness When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
@proven harness stop
tagging
@proven harness me
@proven harness or I'll just
@proven harness block or BAN you
π¦
I was about to reply to your forum thread, but since you want to be obnoxious...
No, I'm not obnoxious. Why do you decided this? Also it's the first server when I seen that replay is a bad idea. I expected that it's better to use reply, because it could be some sort of mess, like it's unclear who answered to whom. because it's a lot of topics
It's unclear
Just wanted to be clear, no more...
We're talking back and fore
Reply is damned pointless there
Tagging when replying even more so
I just didn't know this
I asked you more than once to stop tagging
It was not clear, sorry
So, you're the kind of person that mentions the other person's name in every sentence?
Well, good luck... I'm done
No, I'm a person, which prefer to communicate ways which other persons prefers. People are different and you never know what other person prefers. Also it's internet and pandemic time. Everybody is angry π¦
It's unclear what one person wants and what wants another. Personally me (I speak about me!) prefer when people use reply, to not miss when they anwer me or asks me
there is no point to see me any bad way, I just didn't know how you, guys, prefer to communicate here, not more
Sorry, I was not supposed to be obnoxious, I just didn't understood what bot wants from me, just skipped this message. Because bots in the discord often send messages, and probably people mostly skip them
And I imidiatly stopped when you send message directly (not via bot) because in that time it was clear
This is another option, my water department has a rebate for manually operated pumps. I wonder if I can get a pump that will circulate every 15 minutes and then just turn it on/off via home assistant w/ a zigbee switch or outlet or something
test
I have two pumps - one that has its own timer and auto shut-off, and one that's just a dumb pump that I use with a DIY temp sensor, valve, and switch
I prefer the control that I get over choosing a quality pump, HA-friendly switch of my choosing, temp sensor of my choosing, and valve. But I've probably also gone overboard here π
Now I undertood what does it means(I've disabled notification in this message to demostrate that I understood finally). I just didn't understand what bot wants from me. Just expected that it's some sort of not useful automation, which biggest part of servers had. Please excuse me. I really not wanted to do something bad. It was unclear for me what is going on
Anyone test out the BroadLink Smart Touch Wall Light Switch, 2-Gang Single Live Wire Switch, No Neutral or Capacitor Required
Or the MOES 2nd Generation WiFi RF433 Touch Wall Single Wire Smart SwitchοΌNo Neutral Wire Needed
"test out" is what exactly?
Anyone have suggestions for a good bed presence sensor
Want to set up automations based on getting out of bed with the ability to sense if it's my gf or me
ESP32 board and some of https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AXWI8L
Does anyone know if there are wifi modules for Panasonic AC's to make them local polling/push instead the rotten cloud apis
Is there an esphome channel / discord?
If not anyone know how to covert this https://templates.blakadder.com/athom_SW112EU.html to use esphome? (i've been using tasmota till now but looking to switch, and struggling with the esphome syntax for this)
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
They even link their Discord from their own documentation
oh you mean the massive social link buttons in plain sight at the top of the page... how on earth is anyone meant to see those... :oops:
gets coat
hey folks, any recommendations for door locks that are compatible with home hub as well as home assistant?
Compatible in what way? HA has the HomeKit integration that can make pretty much any lock compatible (aside from maybe some lock specific features).
ah, well i'm completely new to home automation - i am looking to buy some hardware to automate my door lock, garage door, set up cameras etc... and i don't know where to start. There are sooo many options. I've heard that it's best to avoid blue tooth devices because of their slow reaction time and short range... so i guess wifi devices would work best?
basically the use case scenario is that I want auto unlock if i'm near the door so I don't have to physically interact with it (when i'm carrying groceries in, or just want to walk in etc). And I want it to lock when no one is home.
I have an iphone and plan on using some kind of home hub - maybe a homepod mini... but i also have an HTPC with windows i could use to set up home assistant. it's always on anyways
so the question is - what kind of hardware should i look for generally? something like with z-wave technology or zigby (?) or something like that? and is there a door lock anyone can recommend me?
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations#lock are all the supported locks, which includes the worlds of Z-Wave and Zigbee. Your options depend in part on the answers to the questions in the pinned message though.
Gonna add my 50 cents, for reducing long term costs, avoid Bluetooth locks, they are usually very limited in terms of automation. Personally I'd opt for a ZigBee or Z-Wave lock since they can be locally controlled, however in these two cases you'll need a ZigBee/Z-Wave stick, which might not be easily obtainable depending on your location; Wi-Fi works fine but they are often also slow to react unless they are locally controllable, and you have to consider whether an integration is available when going WiFi.
Tl;dr: If you can get a ZigBee/Z-Wave adapter, go for these two, if not, find something that's both WiFi and supported by HA
For garage, if you have some experiences working with electronics in terms of soldering, you can go with a sonoff SV and put esphome on it. If you don't have time to tinker with these, OpenGarage might be a viable option depending on your situation
Is this the channel I should be in to ask about troubleshooting a recurring reset of my system? RPI4 with HassOS all up to date. USB SSD. History graph in Grafana shows CPU going up to 30% then slowly climbs for about 45-60 minutes then resets. Is this most likely caused by a dying SSD? I can't see the log prior to it resetting since than gets lost with the reset.
That'd be #330990055533576204
ty
so i'll have to carry around a zigbee/z-wave stick to unlock and lock my door? Using only my cell phone is the entire point of simple home automation for me.
Tell me what you mean by locally controllable:
Wi-Fi works fine but they are often also slow to react unless they are locally controllable
All i want is to be able to walk up to my door and it unlocks it for me without any interaction... or at most, do a screen unlock.
No, with Zigbee and Z-Wave you build a mesh
No. The lock connects to Zigbee/Z-Wave and then the HA app on your phone would control locking/unlocking. With an automation you can have it lock/unlock based on your presence.
If you're wandering around with the stick you're doing it wrong
LMAO
ahhhh makes sense. Okay, so I'm in the US - it should be available on amazon, right?
Yes, but after you pick Zigbee or Z-Wave see the relevant channel for advice before buying anything
omg i absolutely LOVE the fact that we have this utlra-specific nerd channel within the community of nerds on a somewhat niche technology
Neither of which are close to niche, but ... sure π
Zigbee is far more common than many folks realise
Hell, it's even on Mars
I started doing my research by doing just a basic google search for articles on what hardware to get... i was hoping to come across a nerd-written article on what they tried, what failed, what lessons they learned and dos/don'ts etc...
but all I found were poor quality articles that didn't go in to depths of anything except to read off the list of features by the manufacturers and commenting on them.
The market seems ripe for a true, ars-technica style in-depth home automation article that doesn't just talk about the technology, but picks up 3 hardware pieces for each type, compares them and explains what the author used and why... what worked and what didn't.
that sorta thing will really help folks like me jump start on this stuff
The answer is... complicated
they have them for linux boxes and htpc software... should have them for home automation too
There's a few million possible combos, depending on where in the world you are, your budget, constraints, desires, etc
yeah, it can start with one region, pick one technology like z-wave, and then go through cameras, doors, blinds, etc
and so on
maybe i'll write one if i get time in the future, once i've built some experience with it
And then you get "little" things like, you want a door lock, but what type of door, and handle, do you have, since not all smart locks fit all doors
heck i could just chronicle my journey in to home automation
Many of us do
like blogs and stuff?
His GitHub and his blog
Yes
There's a load of Git repos out there with people's setups, and folks have blogs and more
The cookbook is a list of example automations. The cookbook also contains links to find people's GitHub copies of their installs.
Hell, some folks do regular YouTube things
People around here generally use less of the "Where do I want to go and what do I need for that" approach and more of "what do I have and what cool stuff can I make from that", I'd say...
https://blog.ceard.tech/2021/01/presence-detection-resurrection.html
okay so this reads like a documentation manual π
Or oh, that was neat, I wonder if I can do that differently
But such articles can be a good way to get the other kind on board too
i'm nerdy but am not a programmer (haven't been one in years... many.. many years lol)
That one has undergone many revisions, and will be updated again, soon π
yeah, i was thinking of writing something more for the beginner - to get them started
like a scaffold in to this wider world of fun technology
Writing a good primer is hard
Primers in the home automation space are usually difficult because it doesn't always start at the platform, especially for a project like HA.
You have to start by putting the tech in layperson's terms
maybe i'll start with my personal experience just learning about this stuff first. not a primer for others, but maybe it would help other beginners learn from my mistakes and faulty assumptions, if they can read how i made mistakes instead of undergoing it themselves
"go to the Home Assistant discord first, guys... is very helpful..."
lol
that's a valuable lesson right there
Helpful, for those that listen and want to learn
We're somewhat more snarky with those who want spoon fed
oh fuck that, i wanna be spoon fed.. who doesn't ?
i'll spoon feed others too once i learn

there's always some elitism by early adopters of technology
seen it everywhere in new things
no worries though. disruptive progressives always jump in with a fish hook and ruin it for the hipsters π
Well, there's that too, but ... this is a "diy" platform, if you don't want to learn, why are you here?
Oh, yeah, it's free
You only really unlock the potential once you move beyond being spoon fed though, until then you'd be better off using Wink
Google wink home automation
And you pay for it
eh, it's for boomers
Or those that want pointy-clicky-nothinky
i mean.. boomers? π
It's always fun when people assume how old somebody else is...
Am reading this article for the differences between them
which do you prefer and why?
Both
Zigbee is also low power, is cheaper, and is "fun" sometimes getting device working together
Z-Wave costs more, but it all works together
Oh, and Z-Wave devices are often more configurable too
I've yet to find a Zigbee motion sensor half as good as my Z-Wave ones, or find anything like https://sensative.com/sensors/strips-zwave/guard/
But, Zigbee is a fraction of the cost, and many devices are just as good as the Z-Wave versions
see, now this is good inside information based on experience... ought to be in an article!
It's on my Git π
git is tooooo technical for the beginner. no doubt i'll go through it once i run in to configuration problems though! π
but i see what you mean
Wait... what?


