#hardware-archived
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I'm happy with the brightness of the white light
the color is just a lil dim
plus $50 a bulb is a little bit steep for me
Yes it's just a difference for the white
yeah the white is fine honestly
There generally aren't colored bulbs that have more brightness than 1000ish lm
Not to mention that the perception of brightness and color is fairly non linear
I decided against trying the lifx bc I really want the zigbee functioinality
not me I'm built different
I have 24 bit true color eyeballs. I pay a monthly license to adobe for them

We don't accept people cheaping out. Adobe... you have to go full Pantone to join the club
Your bulbs will need to be replaced every three weeks so that they stay color accurate
tfw I get a kidney transplant and it trips adobe anti-piracy causing me to go colorblind
TIL and how disappointing
i already was anti hue-rgbw-bulbs-cuz-they're-fucking-overpriced but now i'm 100% against them
I mean it's clearly labeled on the package and likely caused by thermal limitations
The alternative is those rgb floodlights
which rgb floodlights?
a 1600lumen bulb is a 1600lumen bulb to most people regardless of what it says in little letters on the box
The inability of people being able to read brought us colored icons on car dashboards which we then managed to ignore
idk what any of this says
(jk)
Amazon lists a couple rated for 40+w but I have no details on wether they are good or bad
you talking about outdoor floodlights to wash a house?
honestly I'm ok with the hues
I think adding strips and the extra bulb will make it up to par
You can mount them indoors 
https://wallyslights.com/products/30w-flood these are ws2811
I just need another lamp
Keep in mind that even for those the brightness gets measured on white
i wasnt suggesting it for you just the room really
No it was more of a "does more light" option
fwiw the hue outdoor floodlight i just got puts off a lot of brightness
great light but mounting kit is made by monkeys
that it does
chat my bulbs are a little dim can we get the sun in my room rq
when can I get this in RGBW
Tuya commonly does the class m with your house
Spontaneous helium fusion?
I'm wanting to migrate to Matter for alot of my sensors, but I have proclivity to want to use Thread instead of WiFi.. but all of the danged smart switches I can fine are WiFi???!!!.. what's going on here, the benefit of an always powered device is the mesh network improvement in the Thread network.. Anyone got any thoughts or ideas or better.. products?
#thread-archived can probably guide you better, at least if you tell them your country
Gracias..
probably alo helps to describe what you are looking to do. Thread/Matter for me recenty doesn't get me anything other than latency and less features, but I'm just looking at lights.
^^ Mostly I'm trying to get on board with where I think the trend is going to continue to go for compatibility and availability in the future. This crosses over with my work so I'm alway wanting to prove the viability of thread / matter for a production environment.
with what services?
I'm not 100% seeing any extra value with matter/thread, since effectively HA is doing that interoperability job
the trend is actually more like "wow turns out matter and thread are bullshit and we have everything we need with zigbee/zwave/wifi/bt and home assistant"
matter+thread does offer some useful advantages over zigbee, in the form of better cross-vendor support/standardization and having the option of multiple connections between the mesh network and your lan instead of a single coordinator. but the device ecosystem isn't there yet to the point where it could completely replace zigbee.
^industryplant
Matter + Thread will eventally reach parity with Zigbee, but they're not there yet
them relying so heavily on being able to jump across vlans doesnt help
Personally the joy of HA is that you can buy what works today today, and worry about tomorrow tomorrow
lots of people are buying unifi or other things and clicking buttons to make an IoT network then not understanding why things dont work as expected
mumbles mdns
Well, that's just another case of people making the mistake of running stuff they don't understand at all
don't get me started on "vlans". They are not different layer 3 networks.....
yo dawg i poked 30 holes in my network and use an mdns reflector service but we secure af. we toit
i set up vlans, and have everything routed between them (that's called routing), and then i stopped IOT from routing, and now i can't see the devices.
if you don't know what layer3 is, you shouldn't be blindly following youtube videos, or running things like "curl https:random-github | sudo bash"
<end-rant>
I understand the lofty goal of matter+thread, interoperability is the key I saw. So IP based tools need to have a standardized API, but may have a subset of their features available through this interoperable api. While the 2.4ghz mesh network requires new hardware, and some coordinator still, and as far as I can tell isn't getting much market support quite yet.
As a follow-up, I wouldn't suggest "future proof" buying, because it's like day-trading. If you are buying lights, buy something that works now. What else are you trying to automate, thermostat, garage door, security cams, window shades, sprinkler systems, etc?
subjective man
there's zero reason to buy a wifi 6 AP from unifi when their wifi 7 APs are out (even if you dont own any wifi 7 clients)
yeah, I understand that, but that's not how the thread/matter devices are last check
i wouldn't say you are buying unifi for "home automation" though either
so maybe I needed to ammend my statement about "future proof" buying. It's usually a fools errand with technology, but not always.
Does anyone know of a small formfactor zigbee lightbulb with an E27 socket? I've found these small lightbulbs but I can't find any that are zigbee controlled. I don't need RGB, just white and zigbee connectivity ideally.
What country?
Denmark, but I can order internationally if needed. But I guess it has to be 220v, that's relevant of course.
may be a link to a picture would help. zigbee e27 is the default in europe.... I wonder what could be a small form factor.
For reference, the IKEA smart bulbs have a diameter of 60mm and length of 110-120mm. The small formfactor I found has a diameter of 45mm and a length of only 77mm.
So same E27 socket, just a smaller bulb part on it.
I did find one that was WiFi/Tuya based. But not a zigbee one.
I might order one of those, just to see if I can integrate it, although I've read mixed things about Tuya. Some going as far as having an Android emulator running to bridge into HA.
idk if hue makes 220v stuff but they're the gold standard for zigbee in usa for 110
if you buy tuya it will be chinese junk of varying degrees
I don't see any hue bulbs that match my requirements though.
sm0l
Yeah, it is a bit odd that this lamp fixture has an E27 base, but not room for traditional E27 sizes.
I might just return it and get a larger one.
Was just ideal for the room. 😅
I have a couple of slightly problematic lamps like that. Fortunately they fit the small size of LIFX bulb
This is what it looks like with the normal IKEA bulb
I'm now wondering if I could actually replace the socket with an E14, but it becomes more work.
Anyone has suggestion for options for 40V AC-capable relay? Ideally with anything that I can integrate into Home Assistant (like zigbee, HomeKit etc).The use case is I installed a PDLC smart film on my window. The smart film is controlled by a 110V in 40V out AC power supply. The power supply has two ports over 40V AC which if shorted the smart film switches state. From my search, I should be looking for a "dry contact smart relay", but I'm not exactly sure
nothing in logbook about them getting turned on?
if I get these aqara lights (https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-Requires-Million-Gradient-Supports/dp/B0C5XKHCWM), will I need some additional hardware or just the right integration(s) to get them up and running in HA?
Zigbee 3.0
You need a Zigbee coordinator. Those strips are awesome. I have 4 of them.
You need #zigbee-archived
recommendation for a zigbee coordinator?
Damn... there's a 15% off coupon too. MUST RESIST
hoping for amazon/fast delivery so I Can get them set up for my daughter by the end of the week
The #zigbee-archived channel can help, but SMLight or Tube
Thanks for the info, I will look again at the Shelly ones!
Anytime! 🙂
Is there a way of getting my Pi4 and HASS to control my blinds without requiring a soldering iron? I have a Tahoma gateway but find their service unreliable. Is there a USB > 433 mhz radio I can just plug in? Soldering stuff not my forte!
Hi guys, any idea how to make this dumb switch smart?
Its a lamp with two switches
One near the door one at the other end
If it matters im in the Netherlands
Well you either put a smart switch in there or a relay that allows you to control two outputs from two switches
Buy the strip with the diffuser built in
If you don't require RGB, just get a regular bulb, and use a plug-in controller, or wired. Your bulb will burn out far sooner than the controller...
I asked the manufacturer of my HDMI switch for the IR codes for the remote and they sent me this picture... I have no idea how to translate this into working codes. Anyone have any ideas?
What format do you want the codes in? If Using ESPHome they take NEC codes directly. https://esphome.io/components/remote_transmitter.html#remote-transmitter-transmit-nec-action If using Home Assistant, which integration?
Don't most ir blasters have a read mode?
Yes they do. But it is always better to convert the code rather than relying on a copy of the raw IR data if you can.
BroadLink rm4
The temp sensors in my MRCOOL are just HORRIBLE! I am looking for something small that I can kind of hide or not be noticable just to measure the temp more accurately. I don't neen a softball sized puck that gives me 100 diff readings, I just need something very small/simple. Any suggestions?
What are you looking to do? Most HVAC systems have a bit of a delayed action because you don't want to short-cycle your compressor.
Well in my daughter's room the MRCOOL says it's 70 degrees, it's prob 65
In my Son's room he has it set to 62 (the lowest it will go) and I'm not sure it's even 70 in there.
Filters are all clean and everything.
I think two of the 9 in the house are CLOSE
I want to set some schedules and use ACTUAL temps
Check coil outside and inside to see if they are clean, dust can cover the outside coil and really impact performance.
Id you do this, make sure that you don't flip on and off more than once every 5 minutes.
Inside could can be clogged with mold even if the filter is clean
And your son's room could be facing the sun, etc. When it gets really hot here, my ac just can't keep up during the day
And to answer your question, there are some tuya sensors that are cheap, if you get the right ones you can flash with openbk
If you have 9 units, that could get pricey fast
Broadlink uses base64 encoding. You can convert your NEC codes to Base64 See: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/pl03cj/comment/hc8n0dj/
Then you use those commands like this: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/broadlink/#sending-a-sequence-of-base64-codes
If that all seems too much you might just be better off leaning the codes as clearchirs suggested.
Thank you!!
Automations would only run a couple times a day.
Ie, @9am Son is gone, increase temp
@5pm, Son is off work, lower temp
@midnight, sleep time, set to Silent.
The other indoor units are running great, it's just his. I may check the connection to see if it's leaking or something. The first 13 months we had the units his room was empty and it was off. He moved back home a few months ago, so it's only been running a few months. I cleaned all the filters in the house right before he moved in.
Had a similar issue with the sun in our last place. My office would hit 85F with the A?C blasting nonstop. We actually have a huge tree that shade all the upper rooms, and houses on the sides so when it gets under the tree it's hitting the houses. Good thoughts though! I wouldn't have thought about that.
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I was looking at the ZBmini from sonoff but this switch doesn't have neutral in it any other ideas?
They have ones with neutral wiring if I recall correctly
An alternative could be Shelly
No sorry I mean my wall switch doesn't have neutral
That is generally problematic for smart switches
It has one live wire in, two live wires out for the parallel switch
Hm
The ZBmini with neutral has a good diagram but requires neutral let me check if I can find it
This
Same wiring except no N
You think I can use the zbminil2? That one requires no neutral
I'm not aware of smart switches or relays that do two switched outputs without neutral
Alright thank you for your input 😎
If you have the space inside the wall you may simply put two of those in there but it looks kinda like a tight fit
Also keep in mind that they have a minimum load requirement
I honestly don't think it will fit
It doesn't work on mine, either. 😦
Has anyone been able to take a Bose sound bar and replace the Alexa or Google service with something that goes directly to home assistant?
Almost certainly not, but #voice-assistants-archived would know if it's possible
can you connect the ikea light strips with home assistant
Yes
with philips hue bridge?
bridge
Probably not, but if Hue supports them then yes
Most people ditch the bridge and go direct
#zigbee-archived can tell you all about that freedom
than i need to install zigbee on my homeassitant
Yes
👍
Currently have a small mini PC for my home assistant. Wondering if there are advantages/ disadvantage of running HA on my unraid server. Vs dedicated hardware
if you lose your server you probably dont want it to take down your smart home too
That was my thinking. Just wanted to make sure thanks for the reply
i do this for smart home, homelab/server, networking, cameras, hvac
systems that dont rely on others to do their job
That's a great design idea. I'm just starting so I'm casually observing how everyone is integrating everything together
well i still integrate them all together i just dont want them to depend on each other for basic functionality if there's an issue with say the smart home or server
marcel was just remarking about how unraid is unsuitable to the ipv6 networking matter uses so if that's ever in your roadmap... just know!
that's just another reason not to use matter 😛
FWIW I went ahead and tried and the Flipper Zero USB-UART bridge worked beautifully to flash the NSpanel.
Someone explain to me why the homeowners didn't label the fuse box in the house that runs the Doorball. Making it very difficult to figure out how to power off the Ring one so I can replace it. 😂
I was wondering about that. Seems like the voltage should be low enough right? Will only minorly shock me.
I tried looking up videos of people replacing Ring doorbells and I don't think they mentioned turning off the power. But my attention span was too short to watch a 9 minute video
I’m not suggesting it tbh
You should just kill the power and do it real fast even if you gotta flip every breaker
That's the plan when the wife finishes cooking
Doorbell installed! Although I'll probably have to make adjustments with how it's attached to the wall, because it's vinyl which means it's not clean.
noice
Wonder if it's worth buying an SD card to toss in it.
You lick the contacts to check if there is power. ⚡️
Works every time. 🤪
does anyone else use ConBee II with a rpi5? i am unsure whether I should try this again (last time I had checked a few months ago, it was not working)
does anyone else use ConBee II with a
Anyone have any hardware recommendations for automatic light switch pushing? I got a light switch and Id like to automatically turn on or off, something like the fingerbot but then also should be able to stick to the button to make sure I can flip it the other way
Prefer something cheap since I need to buy a few
Just wondering, is it posible to install HA onto a firestick? 😅
Surely a topic for #installation-archived if you mean HA itself 😉
There's a channel for #yellow-archived if you have questions about it.
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
If you have problems with the Blue or your installation see #installation-archived.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://www.codepile.net/ or https://paste.debian.net/ to share code or logs
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Nope, I mean hardware wise, will it support it?
Has anyone done it?
Was thinking as it is plugged in anyways, maybe it can take the load off of the Pi when it is in standby mode or work as redundancy. 🤷♂️
It's a question about whether you can install HA there... that's 100% clearly a question for the #installation-archived channel
If you can then it'll be covered in the official install docs
If nothing there matches then clearly it's not supported, or not possible
But it is also a hardware question as I am wondering if the firestick Max would even be able to handle it.
Dude
You know that when you're arguing with a mod you've already lost?
I'd wish you luck, but I don't think any amount of luck is going to help you given you don't want to listen

Who’s arguing?
I just asked a question relating to hardware; I’m not trying to install it to ask it within install channel.
You asked a question and refused to listen to the answer. This is not the place for your question.
Hardware: Will this sensor detect when i'm in a room, or just motion
Installation: Can i install home assistant onto this old computer?
The firestick isn’t considered to be hardware..? 🤨
When asking if a device is compatible or can handle HA that isn’t hardware..? 🤦♂️
Quote from the #installation-archived channel topic:
Discussion about how to install Home Assistant
And an honest recommendation: you should take a break, before pouring more oil into the fire. In the end you will burn yourself.
I was just wondering about it, but never mind forget that I asked. 🙄
#cameras-archived ||not that you'll listen||
I have a very aggressive sleep pattern (moving all throughout the bed), so I don't think a typical pressure sensor under the mat would do it for detecting when I'm in bed. Are there any other reliable ways?
And i also sleep in a king size bed, so that would be a issue given that i move throughout it
I was thinking some sort of weight sensor under the bed, but i'm afraid it would break
mmwave sensor, pir sensor under the bed towards where you are putting your feet when leaving the bed, phone charging status
There are weight sensors, you could put under the bed posts, but that's DIY.
A mmwave sensor might be an out of the box solution to register bed occupation
I'm using one of these soldered to an Aqara door sensor for creating a "foot button" under a mat when entering a storage space. Could also be placed at the side of your bed I suppose 🤷
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004966862393.html
I don't mind DIY
But my bed doesn't have any legs or anything
All sides directly touch the floor
There is no space under it
Phone charging is also a good idea
Could create a tasker task for that, since HA app updates every 15m
I think i'm gonna build on the idea of PIR under the bed
Worst case i drill a hole through the bed frame
Is there any way to get a PIR to detect in a line radar-like config?
So it would only see me when i'm standing
But imagine the horse is a PIR sensor. I.e. block its vision to the sides
Three of these 600mm sensors across your bed? https://community.home-assistant.io/t/fsr-the-best-bed-occupancy-sensor/365795
King beds are 1800mm wide according to the first result I found.
Good explanation😅
Could work
Will be my last try since they're on the expensive-ish side
PIR probably won't work for this. mmWave passes through objects, PIR does not.
I don't need it to pass through objects
I'll put it on a wall at around 160cm up
*i'm ~180
If you want it to work It will probably have to be on the floor under your bed. I had no luck with a 5GHz or 24Ghz uwave sensor mounted on the ceiling above my bed.
If anyone is wondering about the reliability of the ThirdReality water leak sensors... I recently had a flood in my basement and found my sensor literally floating around in the water for hours. I thought for sure the thing was dead. A few days later, after letting it dry out, it's STILL working. I'm impressed.
But did it notify you about the leak though
Floating around for hours sounds like a no notification
Leak sensors activate by the electrical loop being closed (by water which is leading current). So I'm sure it did.
Yup. It did. The nice thing is that it has an auidible alarm on it too. But I didn't get down there in time to do anything about the water.
Is anybody using the honeywell sensors with their HA setup?
Which sensors, and what's the actual question?
I bought a honeywell T9 smart thermostat and sensor. I guess my question is does the T9 sensor play nice with HA through either the Resideo/Honeywell integration or if I know I ultimately want everything added to HA someday, am I better off buying different sensors to put in each bedroom?
Reolink Wifi doorbell camera is what I have. Works very well.
does it work when isolated from the internet?
Yup
awesome
Hi all! Was wondering if someone had some advice. Figured this was the best place to ask since it's technically hardware related.
So wanted to build a HA powered sprinkler controller. I have all the components such as an ESP32 (for running ESPHome) board with a screw terminal breakout board, relays, and a AC/DC converter.
The question is... when you have all of these various components, what do you use to mount these boards neatly so they stay put?
like a back board or base plate or something
This is basically what I want to mount neatly so I can run the wires neatly between them:
#diy-archived but you probably want to look for "standoffs" that attach to the corners of each board. you can attach those to a project box or something
ah, I didn't see the diy channel. I'll poke around there too maybe other people have pictures or something that they've done.
a good number of people print custom enclosures on 3d printers too
yeah, standoffs for sure. That was another thought too. At least maybe to print a backing board / mount with stand offs. My son has a Bambu so we're good to go there.
because I wanted to place inside of one of those weather proof boxes. I know those have a mounting board with holes but I didn't know if they lined up with the holes in the PCB's
they probably won't
but you can definitely use standoffs and drill new holes into that if needed. I've done that
anyway: #diy-archived
buy a premade board imo
does anyone has the ikea rgb led smart strips?
how is the quality compared to philips hue led strips
I do not have them, but I can promise you the answer is "worse"
i don't want to sell a kidney to buy the philips hue strips
30 euro for 4m ikea and 140 euro for 4 m philips hue
go to #zigbee-archived and ask for recommended zigbee light strips-- they will have some options.
What do you mean by premade board? Like one with the ESP32 and Relays? I did look at that but I didn't like what was available and since I only have 3 valves to control, the 8 relay models were just overkill.
Yea like the lily go 4 relay boards
LILYGO® TTGO T-Relay ESP32 Wireless Module DC 5V 4 Groups Relay Development Board 4MB Flash WiFi Bluetooth Remote Switch Control Specifications MCU ESP32 FLASH 4MB PS RAM 8MB Bus Interfaces UART, SPI, I2C, CAN, 12S, SDIO Wireless Wi-Fi 802.11 b/g/n Bluetooth BLE V4.2 Onboard Functions 4 Groups of relays Optocoupler Iso
Kinda cute
I did see that one, but I think you need some other interface in order to slash the ESP32. I'm going to see if I can design something and have my kid print it out. If it's too much of a pain, then I'll go with the Lily 4 channel board. There's another board that has where a built in AC/DC converter but I don't like that it's not fused. Also, it converts from 120/220 VAC to 5VDC. If I'm using a 24VAC transformer (because that's what the sprinkler vales require) then that's more cables needed.
I might just be overthinking it all
I'm gonna go browse around in diy
two 16G ddr5 sticks of ram dropped into my lap. Any cheapish sbc that will take one or two that you know of/
you know there is an open source irrigation controller right?
(damn kind of expensive compared to an esp32 board...)
It's an automation. So, you would put it in your automations. You just have to replace the entities with your entities 🙂
Yeah, I was looking at open sprinkler and there's one on Tindie as well. They're pretty pricey and I thought this would be a fun project
I'd probably take a peek through pcb way's list of pcbs and see if there's anything there
The one on Tindie is like 130 bucks and controls up to 9 valves (I think). It looks pretty well made though.
I thought PCBWay was where you send your designs in and they make it for you? They have already built ones? Like "off the shelf"?
they now have a library of pcb designs and a certain percent can go back to the author
it's like if you could go to thingiverse, pick a design, check out, and the print arrives at your house
interesting! I didn't know that
it's pretty new, Ithink I have only seen it in the past year, but it has grown a bit
the code will be put in #automations-archived so you can see it
i want to install an EV charger but it's surprisingly difficult to find ones that support HA, and are local. there's a few that have APIs to access their cloud services, but i want something that's not internet connected. anyone got any recommendations? i've seen OpenEVSE, but i'd like something visually attractive since it's going on the outside of my house and the lead times are several weeks at the moment
This may not be the right place, but I'm seeing Woot selling Fire tablets dirt cheap (ad lockscreen supported), like $15 cheap for the 2019 model. Anyone know how useful they would be for a touch panel HA wall system since it's basically just showing a web page all the time? Like, how easily can the screen just be set to 'always on' to prevent the lockscreen (ad for the sale https://computers.woot.com/offers/amazon-fire-7-tablet-2019-release-9?ref=w_cnt_wp_0_1)
What smart wall sockets would you recommend that provide power usage data as well? Located in EU, no protocol preference.
@jolly barn Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Has someone suceeded to use esp32 -C6 ?
#diy-archived can answer that if you explain what "use" means
ok thx. ( use = compile + boot , then may be, wifi6) 🙂
Looking into Sonoff M5 series but these are wifi based and I don't really understand why people seem to prefer zigbee.
People prefer Zigbee because it's 100% local, no phoning home, no ability of manufacturers to take your access away
I think everyone knows this already, but don't buy Tuya.
I thought I'd get some cheap wifi switches with local control by using localtuya...
...but the localtuya devices don't only go offline when there is no internet(making the supposed local control inexistent), but also randomly. To the point where I find the official Tuya cloud integration to have better device uptime than the supposed local one. This might be only on my devices, but I have some plugs and switches from different vendors and they all randomly go unavailable, only to become available again when turned on from Alexa/tuya app/tuya cloud integration
I've found that with even 'quality' wifi devices (cough Cync cough) when it comes to uptime for the online connection
It's not the wifi itself
It's their shitty protocol
Im just gonna DIY as much as i can. ESPHome never failed me
@slim lagoon theres a way to integrate a ir controller with localtuya?
Possibly. What model remote is it?
Hi 👋 I posted this https://discordapp.com/channels/330944238910963714/672220541343760384/1265985363118264361 and I would like to have some insights, please
That might work. I know local Tuya does have support for a few remotes. If it doesn't, you might be stuck using the official Tuya integration.
When you say "heater", you're talking about something like a TRV?
When I added as a device it gives me the chance to add it as a binary sensor, climate,cover,fan,light,number,select,sensor and switch which one should i use?
I meant the full electric heater ... not only the Thermostatic radiator valve (i just googled what is was :))
If it's not giving you the option for a remote, then it's not supported. You'll need to see if you can do it through the Tuya integration.
I'm guessing you're in Spain, correct? The link wouldn't open here, so not sure what you're looking for exactly. Can you give me a couple more details? Pretty sure we can find something.
Yes, I am in Spain.
Here is the direct link from the manufacturer https://hjm.es/wifi-controlled-radiator-optima/?lang=en
I hope you can access to it now.
Yup! So, it looks like that uses the same API platform that Haverland uses. It looks like that might actually be able to be used in HA.
how were you able to spot the API platform they use?
Looking on the forums, there are posts back from 2019 about Haverland/HJM. https://community.home-assistant.io/t/haverland-radiators-smart-box-integration/133596
Recently purchased a couple of Haverland radiators and the Smart Box controller: https://21stcenturyheating.co.uk/product/haverland-ultrad-smartbox/ These seem to be popular in the UK and Spain. I was wondering if anyone is working on a custom component for this or has a suggestion on how this works and how it could be integrated?
awesome, thanks! 🙏
Is there a list of recommended hardware for home assistant. I'm in the US, looking for switches and outlets. $20-50 range
No
There are dozens of abandoned attempts
If you're looking for #zigbee-archived or #zwave-archived devices then those channels can likely help better than this one
zooz zwave or inovelli zigbee switches are your best bet for usa. outlets inovelli are working on some but they're months out i think
Hi all, what's the recommended hardware for a HAOS based-system these days? Over the years my current Raspberry Pi 4 gig has slowly been struggling. Swap levels are around 80% consistently memory usage is around 75% or more, cpu is ok at around 16%.
I like the small form factor of Raspberry Pi so then the next logical thing would be a Raspberry Pi 5 with 8 gigs or a yellow with cm5, is that even possible now?
Just get yourself a decent mini-pc (like an n100). Blows rPi performance out of the water.
Or should I forget Raspberry Pi all together
For what you would pay for a rPi5, you can get a decent mini-pc for just a little bit extra and end up with lots of room to grow. Throw proxmox-ve on it and you're set.
I see, let me have a look at this . So how does migration to one of these mini PCswork can I just restore from a backup?
Yup. Take a backup, store it somewhere, install proxmox and then HAOS in a VM and then restore from your backup.
Just curious why use proxmox? Can I just have the whole thing dedicated to HAOS?
You could, but with proxmox and VMs, you can use it for other things as well, should you choose to.
How does this sound Intel NUC 12 Pro Mini PC, 12th Gen Intel Core i5-1240P (12C (4P+8E) /16T, Up to 4.4 GHz) 32GB DDR4 RAM & 512GB Business Office PC, 8K Dual Display HDMI 2.0*2, USB 3.2*4, Thunderbolt 4*2,WiFi 6,BT5.2
Looks solid to me. How's the price on it?
$520 CAD
Eh, not bad... you can go cheaper though. but that thing seems beefy.
did you connect this to an aqara hub for homekit or fif you go another route?
For what? Just haos? Proxmox with lots of things?
unless you need the compute for something this is likely a poor value choice as it yields no real storage capabilities
I'll likely just do HAOS at first.
Pretty overpowered and hence wasteful for that.
Even if you only run HAOS virtualization comes with lots of benefits: #hardware-archived message
And here's why I wouldn't run HAOS bare-metal without those benefits:
N100 would be plenty then
Great. Nothing wrong with too much power, maybe a little more future proof.
wasted energy, wasted money
Hello, would this be a good place to make sure if my current hoobs Pi board will support HA? Or should I go to the Installation channel?
I'd be curious to know how much the Raspberry Pi 4 consumes at 20 to 100% cpu, vs idle nuc 12 i5.
its not even of the same magnitude
mostly because there is next to no hardware on the board of the pi
for the n100 it's like 10-22w iirc there is quite a bit of info posted online about them
that sounds about right
the pi very much wont go above 10ish without catching fire or crashing
the nuc on the other hand probably does whatever up until a hundred ish w
Isn’t pi5 15W?
i dont know, havent bothered buying one
Wondering where I might read up on Thread & Matter and form a view on future proofing new devices since I'm already somewhat down the path of Z-wave and Zigbee; both of which I'm fairly happy with in terms of stability & integration. However, many slick new devices I'd like to test seem geared towards Matter/Thread, so is it silly to try to maintain all Z-wave & Zigbee?
Apologies if this isn't a good place for my question (maybe each hardware channel has insight I should get directly from each)
the best thing to do is not to think about matter and thread too much atm
its fairly new and a lot of things will and need to change in the coming years
the protocol itself does matter fairly little, buy some good devices for today and enjoy them instead
that confirms what I was thinking about 6-12mo ago. Nice to know its still early days.
All that being said, If I don't want ot ignore everything, i.e. I want to try out something from Switchbot or another cool company, is there any way to gauge if their devices are compatible with a generic hub even though they make their own?
Ok. It's expected the nuc will consume more. Some testing indicates it's all over the place from 4 to 100w
difficult to say, there is a lot of stuff around that wont necessarily play nicely together
Thread and matter are ok, I mean if you can get the alternative get those. I find thread devices faster than zigbee ones, but I only have 11 thread devices
Thread-based motion is almost instant
there is a major output power difference between wifi and zigbee/zwave standards which may be troublesome in noisy environments
besides that the difference should be unnoticable
But it is noticeable at least in my experience
it shouldnt be
may be some bad connection / high noise on that channel which makes communication unreliable
This is part of it but in theory thread is faster it always has lower latency than the other protocols.
there would have to be an improvement to justify yet another standard 
Especially for larger systems
The argument for the rpi5 imho is that it's basically maintenance free, will probably run for a decade or more with no issues if you keep your dirty hands off the gpio pins...
maintenance free
How would a NUC be different?
There's a lot more in them to go wrong imho.
and I don't think anyone expects 10 years of service from a beelink nuc
maybe an actual intel nuc you might get over 5 reliably
A fan perhaps but they probably live longer than the pi's SD Card.
People buy used almost 10 year old (U)SFF machines all the time and they work fine "forever".
Hey has anyone tried using the LD2412 sensor before?
I hate to open my mouth because I've will die tomorrow, but I buy Samsung sd cards only from known sellers, and I haven't had a failure yet
I just know that it happens quite a lot: https://www.google.com/search?q=raspberry+sd+card+corrupt
I haven't owned a pi in forever [and the one I had was promptly sold because it annoyed me too much](#installation-archived message) so I didn't encounter any SD Card failures either.
just the 2410
I just saw this very fitting post as well: https://old.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/1ecexx0/should_ha_realistically_start_telling_people_as/
Trying to have a presence sensor (ld2410c) working as i would like but, i have to many "false detections"... surprinsigly, it started this morning at arround 5am while i was sleeping ...
I didn't realize that ha thrashed the sd so bad, it's to bad you can't run two sd cards in a pi, one for the os another for the logging
You can add USB sticks and other media
But the best solution is to not use an SD card in the first place
Or to not use a pi
sd for os usb for logging\ or just use a m.2 ssd hat
Nevermind you can flash ESPhome to almost anything these days
Still though, if you aren't comfortable with soldering don't touch tuya
Yeah I have one of these on my desk, didn't realize at the time that rpi had become so gauche
do you guys have any tips for lighting a room with strips
Should I try to run everything off one controller?
Probably no as currents and power supplies aren't limited
I see. How much strip can I get away with on one controller
IG I should read the datasheet lol
Pretty much that yea, it depends quite a lot on the voltage
Usually 10ish m are reasonably possible
probably go with a higher voltage to keep the amps low
Would need to check what the strips support
well I haven't bought anything yet
still planning
is it possible to mount a diffuser channel in a way that wont make me lose my deposit when I move out
also is there a controller that people recommend?
If you do power injection on the strips you can probably get away with one controller. But I tend to agree with horstexplorer.
idk if I'm even gonna have more than 10 meters of strip tbqh
Are you thinking wled? They have a whole page of board recs.
What’s your longest continuous strip?
idk yet
just planning
probably gonna do the perimeter of the ceiling
let me math out an approximation
It's all just about removing it afterwards. You will need to put them onto something that isn't the paint of the wall either wax
You need power injection.
how I do dat
Your local hardware store may have such diffusion channel holder things
The landlord is gonna paint tho so like
lol
They may not hold on rough wall surfaces nicely
That’s true
I'll just screw em in
I don't think you will end up with something you just flick and it be removed without any visible remains to fix kinda solution either way
landlord said I can make holes as long as I fill em in
could you recommend a controller?
Look at the wled rec page.
damn, ceiling alone gonna b like 16 M
Long data line config: https://kno.wled.ge/advanced/longdata/
Basic wiring: https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/
Compatible hardware: https://kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/
Power injection: https://kno.wled.ge/advanced/wiring/#power-injection
Seriously though, their site is SUPER detailed. https://kno.wled.ge/
They have a discord too: https://discord.com/invite/QAh7wJHrRM
and it fully integrates to HA
any thoughts on these strips https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804777123366.html
I would order from BTF lighting on amazon or aliexpress.
I think I should probably get individually addressible
But you first need to decide if you're doing 5v or 12v.
Then you just go to the WLED site and look at compatible strip types for 5v or 12v.
With a room that size you could get away with controlling 5 or less pixels per IC.
I didn't even know that was a thing
what's the search term for that
like "group addressible" or smth?
Seriously, start with the links I gave you. The strips themselves should be the last choice you make.
gotcha
Eh? They’re my first choice alongside controller
Then wire length and math at the end
he literally hasn't picked a voltage requirement
Yea he needs to learn stuff and things
Those ws2814 24v are prob the easy answer
Plus a dig quad or maybe just uno
looking at the materials you sent it seems like I should pick the voltage based on the strips not the other way around
am I missing something?
There are like a dozen types of strips per voltage type
just looks like certain strips have different behavior depending on the voltage
like different group size
I'd like addressibility, rgbw (or rgbcct if feasible)
idk I think that's it lol
gonna have some accessory lighting on my desk and stuff
but nothing as long as the ceiling
but the desk and stuff is going to be controlled seperately right?
yeah unless it's trivial to jump them together
it would be better not to. You could share a PSU if it's sized correctly
sure
I'd get this board:
https://quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-quad/
then look at this page for (12v) strips that work with it
I went with 5v, an oversized PSU from meanwell, ws2812b led strips (144 pix/m) from btf, and a basic esp32 board. I wired power in parallel to the board and strips GROUPED THE GROUNDS. Data is direct from board to strips.
sweet
but ask about that in the WLED discord before you buy anything.
do they make longer rolls of the 144p/m leds? I only see 1m strips
it's preassembled, can handle 5-24v output, has the line level shifter built in, has fuses built in.
I can solder
you're gonna have to learn to solder champ.
then you're good
are there cheaper diy boards?
also is the high density strip worth the extra expense?
they look a hell of a lot better, less hot spots (if any)
yep.
just wondering if it's worth for a big area
this is honestly a lot more complicated than I was expecting lmao
What makes one LED Diffuser channel better than another? Color, thickness, depth, and mounting solutions are ALL important and in my testing there were two CLEAR winners.
Best LED Density (60 LEDs/m): https://amzn.to/3Ze2P3U
Best Overall Diffuser (Shallow Aluminum + Tented Diffuser): https://amzn.to/3C7p2VP
Most "Spotless" Diffuser (Deep Alumin...
this is a whole-ass engineering project
I researched for 2 months before I bought anything.
this is why the density matters
I was gonna order and do everything up when I move but
I'll prolly wait
trying to design my ideal living space lol
I've lived at my current apartment for a long time so
I'm using this as an opportunity to make things the way I want
what do you think about 24v
the link you sent suggests them for very long length projects
shrug
seems like they have even higher densities
I'd recommend actually living in the space before buying shit for it honestly.
I'm making a list
lol
can someone tel their opinion about govee smart led
^^ and is there a way i can use my philips hue switches to control my govee ligths
I mean...isn't the point of home assistant to link everything in one hub?
yes
Then you can use anything to control anything
So with just home assistant i can control my govee lights with any zigbee/wifi switch including diming function?
I mean
Isn't a switch just on and off?
No idea what specific switch you're talking about
these new switches from hue
I have seen people using them to control other stuf than ligths
Then yes
Home assistant can read every value of every device
And do anything with it
Don’t use the hue hub though. Get a zigbee coordinator and connect the bulbs/whatever that way. #zigbee-archived for more about that
I deleted my hue hub, in favor of a zigbee coordinator. But that breaks "hey google, turn on the master lights" and I never got around to figuring out how to fix it.
So bad for WAF (wife acceptance factor)
I'm looking to upgrade from my current server. I currently run an optiplex with 16gb ddr3 and an i5-4590. What would be your recommendations? I need something fairly quiet (i.e. could be placed in an office) and possibility have at least 64gb of ram. Maximum $500. Not sure where to begin. I'd rather have server hardware than consumer
Why would you upgrade? What is it your current server is not doing, or is doing badly?
Is there quiet server hardware?
That's not server hardware. At least not how I would categorize it.
Yes, hence my question to OP about why s/he wants to upgrade from whatever they have
You don't need a "server" to run HA. It'll run on any old junker
I need to run some stuff for my personal business. Nothing too crazy, mostly document storage, some wiki, invoice handling etc + what I currently host (HA, Plex, Adguard, NAS, containers)
An optiplex 4590 is fine for proxmox/ha/other homelab things.
Why doesn't the current box work? Add a NAS or external storage if you can't fit enough ssd/nvme in it
Yeah it is not realy server hardware but you don’t need to sel you kidney for the eletriciti bill
optiplex is (can be) sff pc, doesn't use much power either
True witch model?
Do you really need 64GB of ram for "HA, Plex, Adguard, NAS, containers"? <== which containers?
I’am thinking to buy one of these
I have several sff PCs like that for homelab. I use the lenovo thinkcentres, but basically the same thing.
Can get them for like 100-150 on fleabay with i5-6500t 16GB ram 1 TB SSD etc.
I’am now using real server equipment but they use to many power
0,8 amp for 1 server
yeah, no need for that imho; old workstations work just fine for modest homelab, unless you're kubernetes guy hahah
#dayjob
Amperage is meaningless without knowing the voltage. But that's why I asked earlier. Usually high power means loud fans.
Eu 220v
Have you tried running an aggressive power savings mode?
Most of my servers run a custom script at boot that runs powertop --auto-tune and afterwards excludes HID devices.
Things like ASPM in the BIOS/UEFI and things like that can also help.
No
It is just in the default mode, I don’t pay the power xD
You just have to move the lights or whatever into a room on the google hub.
uh? would like to fix it if possible, but don't understand. I don't really "do google" much
Don't even have any Google integrations installed, ha
also, without paying nabu casa for any $/mo
lots of 7th gen intel now too
Yeah, one of mine is a 7500t
The backup/second one is 6500t
It's just about cost vs newness. For HA plus a couple of local services, it totally doesn't matter imho
https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9219307?hl=en your hue devices probably aren’t in the “bedroom” or whatever as far as google is concerned.
It’s simple to move a Nest camera or doorbell to a different spot in your home, but you might want to give it a new location name with the app. Moving a camera to another home or country is more compl
I think my system is more fundamentally not-configured than that. I doubt there's any google-device => HA connection, because I'm too cheap to pay for nabu casa
You don’t need nabu casa
Happy to learn bro. How? happy to read a link
Cool. Next step is getting my HA externally accessible without $. What do the cool kids use? cloudflare-something or tailscale-something?
Moving with tailscale. Seems most straight forward.
Bit paranoid about exposing anything to internet. Need to lock it down to just HA, and make sure all the passwords are good.
but you said it uses too much power
I mean, I have a commercial server in my rack, when it's idle, I don't think it pulls more that 0.1 amp at 120v
the fans spin down, everything goes into power save mode
That sounds more like put to sleep than idle
roars back to life when needed
no button pushes needed
and the low intensity stuff in the background still runs
You have to buy something very new to get those kind of power figures
We've got cascade lake Xeon systems at work (late 2020 vintage) that get down to around 85W at idle
In my experience things are getting worse again though, some of our gen 4 Epyc systems can't get below 400W at idle. Lotta power doing nothing at all
Hmm, I'll have to check it again when I get it hooked up again. And my meter isn't anything fancy, just an old avocent pdu that has an amp meter on it
That is not always a option
When you are runing virtual machines
I'm thinking about putting streaming boxes on all of my tv's. Does anyone have a reccomendation? I would like to be able to integrate the tv's with home assistant.
Wondering if anyone has experience with this as I'm unable to find an answer online. I've configured this as per a youtube video. I'm using the Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 (p model).
You can't use ZHA and Z2M at the same time with the same coordinator.
Do I simply delete the integration entry of ZHA then?
Yep.
Unfortunately still experiencing a connection issue (disabled ZHA).
From what I can tell on the forums this means the path is wrong. But looking at these two images it seems the same:
Images of text are a bad idea.
It's one of the reasons it's disabled in most chanels.
Please use imgur or other image sharing web sites, and share the link here.
Image posting is blocked in most channels to discourage people from sharing text as images. Sharing text as images assumes that everybody sees the world as you do, which isn't the case. Some people are colour blind, or have visual impairment that means they can't make sense of an image of text.
To format your text as code, enter three backticks on the first line, press Enter for a new line, paste your code, press Enter again for another new line, and lastly three more backticks.
```yaml
example: here
```
Don't forget you can edit your post rather than repeatedly posting the same thing.
Please use a code share site to share code or logs, for example:
- https://dpaste.org/ (select YAML for the language, and consider picking a longer expiry)
- http://pastie.org/ (select YAML for the language)
- https://paste.debian.net/ (you guessed it, select YAML as the language)
Please don't use Pastebin, since it can randomly add spaces to the main view. Please also don't share text as images since it makes it harder for people to help you. Remember that others may have colour blindness, impaired vision, etc.
#zigbee-archived would be more fitting btw.
Oh is this part of why I see stuff on reddit about "I'm no longer a part of this community because it's ableist against vision impaired people"?
and thanks, I'll move the conversation there tomorrow morning.
(Thanks for providing the messages)
Maybe. Some people need text in a specific format or color or size or whatever. In reddit's case that was related to their API pricing/accessibility thing.
In this case here it's also not possible to copy paste the text so it's not just about being able to read it well.
The govee tv led strip you need to install that camera on top of the tv
Is this possible with a curved tv?
Question I have when setting up a new HA system. Are there any known wireless access points out that that acts as a ZigBee coordinator as well?
If there are don't buy them. Buy stuff from the recommended list. See #zigbee-archived.
Thanks! 🙂 will check it out
No but there are PoE coordinators which are a good option
Yeap. I was just thinking as I would need to get a new access point set up, and if there was a combo. But definitely looking at smlight POE. 🙂
Supposedly yes. Govee states the camera will work on pretty much any recent TV
You never want an AP/coordinator combo. Zigbee and WiFi operate in the same 2.4ghz spectrum. The interference would be insane in a device like that and the performance of both would be horrible.
This explains why they stopped it... Saw a old tplink model. Thanks for explaining!
Anytime 😊
Should I get a chromcast 4k or amazon fire stick 4k max?
neither buy an nvidia shield tv
NVIDIA SHIELD TV is the ultimate streaming media player for the modern living room. Enjoy a cinematic experience with the highest quality 4K HDR entertainment. Watch Netflix, Amazon Video, Apple TV+, Disney+ and Google Play Movies & TV in crisp 4K HDR, and YouTube, Hulu, and more in 4K. Stream fr...
that or the pro model if you want
Or an Apple TV.
I'm running a plex server with high bitrate movies so I definitely get that I need power. Is there no getting around a large price tag for this? I'm trying to do this for 3 tv's
Not really. The Apple TV has a great interface + no ads (anywhere in the software really). I’ve had a few, and the older one is 5 years old and is still super snappy.
Can’t speak to the shield
I don't have any other apple products and I'm worried about compatability. Does Apple tv play well with everything?
What’s “everything”
Samsung phone casting, home assistant camera casting, youtube casting, I guess I'm not sure what else besides casting lol
If you setup HomeKit on your HA instance you should be able to do camera alerts. YouTube’s app on Apple TV will link to your phone for control regardless of type, no on the phone casting.
Live camera alerts*
The Apple TV will act as a hub. The home kit bridge will pass your home assistant devices to the Apple TV.
The bridge is software on home assistant
the shield is the superior device
But honestly, sounds like the shield might be better for your use case
you can lookup some guides that explain it online
I just don't know if I can swing $600 for three of them
then buy one and when you realize it's the best you'll buy once cry once
lol that’s how much you’ll be spending on the Apple TVs
shield is $150 the pro model is $200
Do I not need the pro?
the apple tv is pretty locked down i am an ios / apple person and i dont consider it a good option
what are the differences?
I'm just worried about power for my high bitrate movies
The Apple TV has hdmi 2.1, faster WiFi, better interface, and better hdr support….
you should look up the differences they make very little difference to most people (shield tv vs pro model)
What is the downside to Apple TV
more onboard ram for stuff you'll never use and some usb ports
It’s not hackable
The biggest actual downside is that you don’t use other Apple stuff
Which makes the entire experience more seamless— because that’s apples whole thing
Is the shield seamless in some way?
You can cast to the shield from your Samsung
Can you not cast to apple tv?
You can with AirPlay from an Apple device.
You can’t google cast
So what's the big drawback for chromecast vs sheild?
unless something has changed recently the shield tv is always chosen over apple tv for the home theater guys due to its support for audio formats that nothing else supports (truehd 7.2 iirc?)
maybe times have changed 😛
That may be true. HE-AAC (V1), AAC (up to 320 Kbps), protected AAC (from iTunes Store), MP3 (up to 320 Kbps), MP3 VBR, Apple Lossless, FLAC, AIFF, and WAV; AC-3 (Dolby Digital 5.1), E-AC-3 (Dolby Digital Plus 7.1 surround sound), and Dolby Atmos
https://github.com/yuliskov/SmartTube also this is possible on the shield tv
Yeah
huge upsell lol
I use the highest Dolby output available, I have a very good 5.2 setup 🤷🏻
I have a question. The goal is to control Sonos for one room using a wall control.
I am fully integrated into the HA community at my home. Also, I really dislike having hubs from other vendors.
I am interested in finding either a PoE or otherwise powered switch for a single gang box. This Pico Smart Remote for Audio is ideal except that it requires a hub. Is anyone aware of other options?
https://assets.lutron.com/a/documents/3691021.pdf
Thanks!
it's not just about ad blocking it does lots of really nice customization
you'll just have to try it
are you not using zigbee or zwave meshes already?
any smart button or smart remote will work really
No, I am not using any zigbee or zwave meshes
We have 54 wired clients and 175 wireless clients throughout the home.
A full UniFi network with 62 UniFi devices
that's a lot of 2.4ghz
I believe that some of my home security system uses zwave, but all sensors are hardwired so I am not sure that a zwave network is available anyways. I would prefer to be all wifi or hardwired PoE
so you want a wifi or PoE smart light switch basically?
but ideally media specific keys?
https://cloudfree.shop/product/cloudfree-light-switch/ you might be able to find an esphome or tasmota wifi switch that does what you want
Yes, that's right. Wifi or PoE smart light switch that can be media specific, if possible.
I am not familiar with CloudFree. No hub is required?
cloudfree is just a website reselling stuff. what makes it "no hub required" is that it uses tasmota over wifi which is a fully local connection
OK got it. So, tasmota can be controlled by HA, right?
Fantastic
I have no idea what esphome is, but I can learn about it.
I appreciate your help
Do you know if they sell anything tasmota-related that has audio-specific controls?
esphome and tasmota both are open source projects that create open source firmware for you to flash to all sorts of devices
companies are now building "made for esphome" devices for example that are shipping ready to be integrated into home assistant by just connecting to your wifi
esphome was acquired by nabu casa parent company of home assistant so there's a closer relationship with the integrations there i suppose. i just prefer esphome myself
OK great, if they work the same, I will search for esphome
esphome integration will use websockets instead of mqtt with tasmota
but like you're still setting up the device via yaml and flashing it and then getting the same outputs "button up" "button down" etc
https://digiblur.com/wiki/devices/plugs/sonoff_s31/ for example i use these wifi plugs but they come flashed with sonoff's chinese bullshit firmware. so i reflash them with esphome firmware
That sounds a bit complicated, but I am sure I will figure it out
it's all templated you just copy/paste already made code pretty much
but you're putting yourself in this box by refusing to use zigbee or zwave
no
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/light-switches/products/zooz-700-series-z-wave-plus-scene-controller-switch-zen32 i'd personally use this for your use case
Z-WAVE SWITCH REBORN PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS On/off Z-Wave and manual control from the main button: use with 120 V lights or fans under 3 A 4 smart buttons for remote control* NEW 800 chip: more range, faster signal, SmartStart inclusion + S2 security Z-Wave Long Range ready: extend the wireless coverage up to 1 mile if you
This makes sense. I had a really bad experience years ago with it. We have a very large home (14,000 sq ft) and the distance proved challenging at the time.
or a philips hue remote if you just want a tiny remotehttps://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Installation-Free-Exclusively-562777/dp/B08W8GLPD5
This Philips Hue Dimmer switch makes it easy for anyone in the home to control Hue smart lights with a touch of a button whether or not they have the Hue app or a voice device handy. The dimmer switch adds more convenient ways to control your Hue lights whether for guests, kids, or even yourself....
that's not a home that's a castle
This one seems to required a hue bridge?
i could help you redesign it for money 😛
it requires a zigbee coordinator (or a hue bridge but not an option in my eyes)
Perhaps this would be a good idea
This is a common issue. Most things in this house are commercial-based due to its size
there's a lot of good hardware that only exists as zigbee or zwave options (especially lighting and light sizes)
I found that. I just don't know how to overcome the size of the house issue.
well
on some level breaking things into multiple meshes is fine
home assistant can handle the traffic just not a zigbee or zwave mesh
one guy i talked to recently has fucking 15 zigbee coordinators ranging from 40-140 devices on each
Interesting.
(a normal home will have 100 or less zigbee devices total)
it's the same concept as like wifi in a warehouse
ZOOZ 800 SERIES Z-WAVE LONG RANGE SCENE CONTROLLER SWITCH ZEN32 800LR
This ^ I assume that I can use this with esphome and then set the four buttons on the bottom to do things like change a song, pick a Sirius station, pause, start, volume up / down, right?
you throw 500 APs at it and keep them all tuned low to give good signal to a small area and hardwire each back
no that's zwave 900mhz (you need a zwave controller for this) esphome is wifi or ethernet
Oh, OK. I will find a wifi one that is similar
yes i've heard of people printing out material design stickers and placing them on the buttons
you can sync the color of each led to something too
for example i sync one LED to state of my front door
i have this same switch as my room's light switch so i can glance and see status of w/e
This is a great idea.
It's similar to a warehouse - the difference is material. It's all slate, brick, etc.
fancy
Yes, but annoying to do things like this.
I use two of the buttons as ‘wake’ and ‘sleep’ triggers too. When double tapped one starts a script when I’m ready for bed that arms alarm, locks doors, turns lights off, turns tv on then Plex playlist, etc. and a wake script doing similar
@cold moon I'm trying to set up my home assistant/ new nvida shield to show my doorbell camera when someone hits the doorbell. I've gotten it to sort of work but I have to hit a notification on the home page (if I'm already on the home page) any ideas?
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/nfandroidtv probably start here.
Not sure, I don't have a shield, just trying to help. I sort of assumed that you'd send a notification to the shield when activity is found on the camera.
Using the apple tv, they sorta just work as long as the camera supports hksv.
Has anyone got any recommendations for RGBW smart bulbs with both cold and warm white, local control only, G45 Edison screw?
I can get the camera to work I just have to be on the home screen to see that I have a notification then go click it to see the video. Maybe I should've just got an apple tv lol
I haven't seen anything with g45 bases @modern oak
Hue would probably be your best bet for looking. They are the cream of the crop (when used with a zigbee coordinator) and seem to have the most variety.
Can you rewire the lamp?
The recepticle is part of the structure unfortunately
I'm happy with ZigBee, I have a stick, but always avoided Hue as people say they aren't as good as some others in terms of brightness
that's true re: brightness. Less important with accent pieces.
If I don't have to use their hub and can just connect it to HA directly through the stick that might be a good option
and yes, you can
doesn't apply here anyway
G45 is just the shape of bulb, right? Is it an E14 or an E26/E27?
Because Hue's small (probably close enough to G45) is only available in E14
the candle bulb?
E14
Well candle would be easier (and have a lot more options)
But every result I see for "G45" is this shape
same
I meant E14, didn't realise that was shape not socket
Their E14 seems to be £50 a bulb and I need two, sheesh
So the "Hue Luster" is the approximately that shape bulb, but it has the issue that it's not quite omnidirectional
Philips Hue White & Color Ambiance E14 LED Leuchten 2-er Pack (470 lm), dimmbare LED Lampen für das Hue Lichtsystem mit 16 Mio. Farben, smarte Lichtsteuerung über Sprache und App : Amazon.co.uk: Lighting
These seem ideal though ouchy price
470 lumen will be very dim
That too
it's an accent light
Capture the popular look of Edison bulbs featuring a distinct glowing inner coil and transparent globe, with smart Filament bulbs. These retro-style LED smart candle bulbs are both beautiful and functional, bringing just the right shade of white light to any space. Instantly control your Filament...
If I could go brighter that would be cool
what about these
No colour
color hue makes you pay extra
What I'd like is RGB for feature and W for a good enough evening light if you will
https://www.lifx.com/products/candle-color I have one of these. @cold moon will yell at me for recommending, but it has great color, great white accuracy, and has been really reliable.
but it's wifi
Local control, no cloud?
local control via home assistant
Local control, cloud optional
Doesn't chat to cloud even when used locally?
E12
The US version is E12, UK/AU version is E14
This is the one you want, just where you'd get it I don't know
Are you in the US Pokey?
UK
then you're good with Lifx
should link you to the correct page ify ou dson't want to use the earlier link
Yea the only one which shows E14 is the Aussie one
That one shows E12 and there doesn't seem to be a UK or EU store
And the only one on Amazon UK is the B15 bayonet version
Yep
BOOOOOOO
@native pilot Ive fixed it up to the point where it works perfectly unless im in the Plex app. I can hear the video stream but the video doesnt pop up. Any ideas?
actually? lol
I just picked up a couple SONOGG ZBMINI Extreme Zigbee Smart Switches (ZMBMINIL2). I see that it says they can be used with the paddle switches. Can they be used with normal switches? I don't see why not, but I just want to be sure.
My skyconnect dongle isnt being recognized again after flashing the firmware. Fuck this garbage.
Maybe you’ll get some help if you list out exactly what you’re doing to flash it and what you are or aren’t seeing?
Hey all! I once again find myself on the search for local video doorbells.
My family and I would like to install a video doorbell in our house, mainly for notifications when somebody rings it, but we want to respect the privacy of others and ourselves and not have our data uploaded to some company without us really knowing. We have looked at some local doorbells on the internet, but have noticed that a lot of them are mains powered - we do not have access to a socket by our front door, so would need it to be battery powered.
If anyone knows of, or has had good experiences with, a specific type of doorbell like the one I am looking for, please let me know so I can take a look at it!
Thanks in advance for your help!
I also forgot to mention - one specific feature we would like is a physical chime - if someone rings the doorbell, a noise rings in the house. Unfortunately, the device we run Home Assistant on is very unstable, and so is our WiFi, so this cannot be handled through HA, it must be a feature of the device itself.
when does HASSOS benefit from more RAM? i currently have 4gb and am considering 8gb
current average is ~2 out of the 4gigs https://i.vgy.me/ea5JP0.png
https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2023/04/18/home-assistant-os-release-10#advanced-memory-management not sure you'll see much benefit with your current workload
wouldn't atleast addons/custom docker containers profit from more ram?
if they needed it they'd already be allocating it
mine uses 6gigs but frigate is using a bit of the cpu these days
upgrading from a pi to a mini pc would be nice tho
Has anyone gotten a Flair vent to work without their bridge? The bridge uses an ESP32 and it looks like the vents use an ESP8266?
Hi, im trying to use the ZBT-1 with Thread & Matter, however im stuck on step 2 from this "getting started": https://connectzbt1.home-assistant.io/procedures/enable-thread/
the ZBT-1 is not showing up on hardware, does anyone know how to fix this?
nah, i love my pis 🙃
Can you recommend me a cheap usb zigbee dongle, and zigbee plugs off aliexpress?
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
Checking temperature inside a fridge. Is Govee the best or is there something better?
didnt we have an n100 with passive cooling fly around here some time ago
I am happy with my reolink
Inkbird BLE sensors
Fuck govee everything 
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Thermometer-Wireless-Bluetooth-Temperature/dp/B08S3CGZ3Q i use this model but seems i bought the wrong one as there is a temp+humidity version https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Wireless-Thermometer-Temperature-Bluetooth/dp/B08S34C5X9
Inkbird Smart thermometer, Freezer Wireless Thermometer Bluetooth Temperature Sensor, with APP for Android and IOS (Detects Temperature ONLY)
there are some, yes
Is it battery powered?
If so, how long does it last between needing to replace the batteries?
For freezer use, you want something that takes AA / AAA batteries, and you want to use Lithium (Li-FeS2) batteries (Energizer "Ultimate Lithium" or equivalent).
At -20C / -4F, that chemistry has almost negligible (<2%) drop in capacity for low power consumption devices.
CR2032 and friends button cells (Li-MnO2) lose more than half of their capacity at that temperature.
Or alternatively, find a sensor with a wired probe and figure out how to put the probe inside the freezer, and the electronics outside. Then there's no problem
the inkbird above is AAA
Yeah that looks pretty good. How does Bluetooth cope with being stuffed in a big metal box?
No, PoE or 12v. I'm not sure about battery sorry, I missed that point. I think you will struggle. Can you not run a 12v cable from the nearest socket?
Unfortunately not, we have a glass front door and ofc can't drill into that
and we have no outdoor sockets at the front
Wooden frame around the glass? Brick?
I am having a strange issue with my skyconnect dongle. I am on my second one due to the same issue, which seems to have affected this one as well.
I have flashed the firmware using the web flasher. I installed the proper drivers on my windows machine and was able to connect. I then installed custom firmware - the web flasher notified me that it was installed successfully. I was able to connect to the device multiple times after the flash occurred.
As soon as I unplug it and try to plug it back into the same device or my home assistant hardware, it stops being recognized. It doesn't show up in Home Assistant or Windows. As I mentioned, this has happened twice now. The first time I did not use the custom firmware, I only updated the existing firmware and the dongle met the same fate. I'm at a loss here and not sure what I am doing wrong.
Any suggestions?
This is a bit of a niche situation, so I'll be so glad if someone has an answer for this. I'm currently running my HA instance on a Proxmox server and have been trying to pass my GPU to my VM. However, here's where I divert from the norm; I have an NVIDIA Tesla P40 installed with NVIDIA's GRID drivers running the whole thing and it certainly doesn't play well with the default graphics drivers. I've been trying to install the Linux GRID driver onto HAOS, but it certainly doesn't play nice with the Alpine instance that it's built on. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get it up and running? My only alternative is to offload the workloads onto a separate VM and have Home Assistant connect to it.
the later option is the way to go
Are there door locks that are commonly regarded as good? Probably asking for the world, but in addition to home assistant integration, I'd like something with phone proximity detection and either finger print or a keypad, as well as no additional dongle or hub
Does anyone know if TP Link no longer supports HA?
I bought 2 TP Link Kasa switches(HS200, HS220). Both can not connect to HA integration
I didn't know a lot about this, but I suspect ha was pulling snmp from the switches, you may have to enable it in the firmware
I updated HA core from 2023.7 to 2024.7 now I could discover the switches
This is a more generic hardware question, I am planning on moving from a Raspberry Pi 4 to a dedicated mini PC. Outside of RAM capacity and ensuring it has an SSD, is there anything else I should keep in mind?
Check the CPU perfomance - the CPUMark - you want at least 2K. It also needs to support UEFI
Sweet, both options I was considering work nicely. Thanks
Sonoff makes some great fire hazzards
That looks like an old gen1 sonoff. Did you push too much power through it?
Huh... a newer one? I've got a few of them that I've been running since 2019 with no issues. Not that it's unheard of, but this surprises me.
Yea...never buying sonoff stuff that operates at 220v
Think i can recycle the esp8266 lol
Good idea. Especially their newer stuff. However, you can find their gen 1 stuff on eBay and those are super rock solid. Like, never had an issue with them ever.
I'd rather DIY...at least i know what i'm using
lol who needs firmware updates?
That's basically what the gen 1s are. ESP8266s wiith really good relays on them. This was back when Sonoff actually cared about quality.
The ESP and relay seem decent...no idea what the part that blew up is
Can't tell from the pictures, was it the transformer itself that went? Or the chip next to it?
Yeah, that's what it looks like to me. The transformer gave up the ghost.
I was just informed the newest gen of shield tv (2019) does support hdr10+ fwiw
Is there a reason to upgrade from the Chromecast with Google TV to a shield? Especially with the new rumored chromecast
Right on. Thanks for sharing!
Apparently it was a power issue
Removed the entire power supply, and i can power it with 5v
The chip that roasted looks like the switching chip of the switching power supply, it basically monitors the power coming out of the smps and adjusts the on/off time
Also looks like it toasted the transformer a bit on the way out
That's why i decided to remove anything power related from it
just wanted to reply in case others come looking with the same issue - the FP2 needs to be removed from any and all 3rd party services before it will be detected in the HK integration. I had to remove and re-add it from Google Home 3x before it worked, but it finally did. Thanks for your help!
I have some ring keypadsV2 i paired with zwave that work with my alarmo. They are constantly loosing signal all the time and are basically unusable. are there any other keypads i can pair with alarmo that are working constantly?
I purchased what I thought was an Galaxy A9+ 11" tablet, but come to find out that BestBuy made a mistake and gave me a S9 Ultra. (open box item tagged incorrectly) I'm not stupid and not going to return it. I cant find any way to cleanly mount this thing to the wall for a dashboard. if there are any MacGyver's out there or if someone can design something i can print that would be amazing.
3d printing is the way
im not that good at designing and i don't see anything already made out there. lol
Are you going to use such a beast to run a web browser on your wall?
Eh it's a few rectangles
meanwhile i'm toying with the idea of some $15 Fire tablets and just do what I can to never trigger the screensaver
https://amz.run/9Rg7 Unrelated, I've had the issue of no neutral wire on any of my switches (60 year old building) as well as issues of two switch wall plates that I want to swap out for smart wiring. If I was to get something like this (not necessarily exactly this, but a two-relay smart switch), pull the mechanical switches completely from the circuit, put a blank plate in and just stick two scene select buttons on, it would work for what I want, right?
Flush-mounted relay for switching lights and electrical devices Introducing the Pico Duo Switch - the ultimate solution for transforming your living space into a state-of-the-art & smart home. Say goodbye to outdated switches and welcome a new era of comfort, safety and control. Pico Duo Switch i...
anyone here own a hailo-8?
Hello everyone. I have a rather simple (or at least to me) question that I cannot find fully 100% answered, as on the forums mostly is SSD related. I hope I'm not in the wrong for asking here.
I have a HA Green unit and I have some spare external HDD's laying around. (1TB). Would it be technically possible to attach the HDD to the HA unit and use the storage for i.e. camera recordings? (I am looking to buy some smart cameras).
Yes, but no, but really a topic for #installation-archived
The short answer is that you can add one disk and move all data to it. You can't pick and chose, and you can only have a total of two disks - one for the OS and one for data
Thank you so much and apologize for putting it in the wrong channel.
More a question for #installation-archived really
Addressable LED strips source, anyone have a recommendation? Looking to do some cool Christmas lights, figure I will need to start looking for products now
Just strips or controllers too?
Just started down this rabbit hole, I am thinking about Christmas displays, I guess I need both? I read somewhere that strips can be cut and spliced? Any guidance would be appreciated
If you're into some tinkering, I'd look at WLED. They have a dedicated discord and a SUPER SUPER detailed website with guides, supported hardware etc.
https://discord.com/invite/QAh7wJHrRM WLED discord
https://kno.wled.ge/ WLED website
You can also read through a long discussion from around a week ago here:
#hardware-archived message
I like Govee for this, although they are WiFi for connectivity. I have some LED strips that I used inside window sills after we left Christmas lights up too long and eventually got to where we just liked having them there. We did end up taking them down but I installed Govee LED strips that can now handle not just Christmas, but national holidays, commercial holidays, and holidays that our country has culturally appropriated to give us an extra excuse to get drunk and festive. A good friend of mine also got some different addressable LEDs for the exterior of his house under the eaves as a semi-permanent lighting solution - again primarily geared towards replacing Christmas lights but have been used for all kinds of holidays and football games etc,.. I get so damn jealous because they look so good but I can't just outright copy his setup now. I have also seen a LOOOT of issues with unprotected outdoor Govee lights not dealing well with the weather despite claiming to be weather proof. However their support is generally good - but how many times do you want to replace the same lights?
Chyna govee really has done a number convincing people they’re the best led strips
Good morning all! I'm wondering if someone knows of a device that has similar mic/speaker quality as the google nest mini, but that can be used locally with HA voice assistant?
Well if I had $10M to glue Hue all over my house I'd probably do that, but Govee hits a nice price point, have been very reliable, they work locally (for most models) and integrate fairly well with HA. I DON'T like that they are WiFi (I segregrate into an IoT vlan and block WAN access) and the app is just ridiculous, some models don't seem to handle the weather very well at all (although my outdoor strands have been hanging around my pool directly in the elements for about a year without issue).
What would be your recommendation instead if you are gonna throw shade on Chyna Govee?
Does anyone have suggestions for a glass enclosed balcony to have automated blinds on Zigbee? I am located in the Nordics, so US resellers and the like are a hard no, and when reaching out to other installers that might have some form of automated installation, they say they only sell to companies, not individuals.
Alternatively, does anyone have an idea on how to automate this: https://www.solskydda.se/balkong-persienner/
You most definitely don't want to diy automation into shutters
I'd like to measure current/power of aircon, mounted externally-first, from there power goes to internal unit. I was looking to Tuya or Shelly wifi modules with magnetic power magnetic measurement ring. Anything else you would suggest ?
Not buying tuya ones is probably the strongest suggestion. In #energy-archived a couple other ones for multi line monitoring are commonly mentioned which you should be able to find
I love your not buying Tuya advice 🙂
I’ve just switched to an unifi dream router and my RPi 4 hosting Home Assistant isn’t connecting via LAN to my default network, neither through a switch nor when directly connected to the router. The link-LEDs are flashing Green and it’s using a tiny amount of bandwidth but it’s not showing up… can reach it through my cloudflare tunnel either. I tried my old router, and there were no problems at all. What can I do? Any ideas?
Check wether or not it gets an address assigned / it's IP is routable through your current network setup
Check that it's configured to use DHCP initially in order to get that address assigned (vs a static IP if you had previously defined one) - you may have to connect a monitor and use the GUI until you can it on the network again.
Hello everyone, I have Home Assistant (VM) installed on a hypervisor (Proxmox) and it shows HA's memory usage constantly at 3.74 GB, whereas HA itself is only reporting 0.7 GB of memory usage. Can anyone tell me why there's a difference and which one is correct?
Not sure if I understand your question 100%, but if you are asking why the OS is taking up 4g, I'm pretty sure that 4G is allocated to the VM and you can't take it back while the VM is running. Doesnt' matter if you kill everything, that's what has been allocated to the OS
The difference is between used and allocated vs free
Thanks for your replies, but my question was about the discrepancy between the memory usage reporting between the two: left side shows that the Home Assistant VM is using 3.73 GB whereas the right side (Home Assistant itself) is showing only 0.7 GB
There is no real discrepancy, it's a different metric based on different perspectives
You are looking at a view of the VM and also a view of the HA running inside the VM
Sorry I don't think I understand, how can Proxmox say the VM is running at almost 4 GB when the VM itself is saying it's only running at 0.7 GB?
Because it is
The memory management is handled on an os/kernel level
It's not just used for an application to run but also for caching and certain other buffers, hardware functions, and so on
The host does not differentiate between both as it cannot influence wether or not memory is required. For that matter any amount claimed is in use. The VM itself may distribute and utilize it in whatever way it needs
Yeah, the memory allocated to the VM is allocated at launch of the VM. You can't change it when the OS is running.
and it doesn't change. The VM has Xgb ram no matter what you are running inside it.
I understand the allocation part, just not the usage part.. does this mean that I have to increase the memory allocation for HA? Because Proxmox is saying it's at 99% usage
No.
You answered my question elsewhere, thanks for your help 👍
I checked the static IP in my old router. Does that overwrite the configuration? If not, it should still be on the default settings in HA.
If I Plug in a Monitor it only Shows a Green Screen instead of the cli :/ why?
A DHCP reservation is so a specific device gets a specific ip. If your device does not use DHCP it's not used however. How does that screen look?
Is the reservation tied to the client or is it only reserved on the router? Does my RPi know that the IP is reserved?
Please excuse my silly questions… I’m just still new to the topic of networking…
The screen is just green… nothing else.
It's tied to a MAC. As in the ethernet port.
When using DHCP the pi asks your router for an ip. The router knows the MAC of the asker and if there's a reservation it gets that reserved ip, otherwise one that's free.
Is anyone using Aqara U100 and other sensors? I would like to know if you are going the Aqara hub route or directly pairing the devices with HA.
Chyna hub bad
I've got about 10 Aqara temperature sensors, all zigbee, and they had no trouble pairing directly into HA. Smart Home Sellout is only here to hate on Chyna, but in this case I agree. If you can get by without the aqara hub I'd do so.
For those of you who have a space heater integrated. Is there one with a local integration or should I just buy one that has a remote and control it with a IR controller?
A static IP can be set on either the router, the client (computer) or both. Typically I leave the client to get an IP automatically through DHCP and only set reservations (static IPs) on my router. It makes things easier. If you have configured your pi for a static IP you'll want to change it to DHCP. You can typically check via cat /etc/dhcpcd.conf to see if you have interfaces defined with a static IP.
A green screen you'll have to troubleshoot on your own.
I already have a Switchbot Hub 2 and supposedly the IR controllers it learns can work over matter.
But I was wondering if there was a space heater that can already be integrated locally.
Some people were saying that you needed the hub to control the U100. I am not sure if thats the case.
Another question on an unrelated note, are there any devices that do Z-Wave and Zigbee/Thread in one device like the HUSBZB-1 does?
Well, it doesn't do Thread, but I mean Zwave and Zigbee mainly.
Yes but they aren’t recommended. Too many interference and reliability issues.
Are there any good internal ones? I bought this: https://z-wave.me/products/mpcie/ but I think it only works for Zwave OR Zigbee, and I wouldn't want to buy two of them.
This sounds like it'd be exactly what you want 🙂 https://github.com/justLV/onju-voice
I would think the internal ones would suffer from range issues, but i'm not sure on that. Any reason you're not considering two different sticks?
WLED controllers and generic WS28xx or SK6812 strips/pixels are what I use. You can likely chop off the Govee controller and connect a WLED controller directly to the Govee strip.. (I did exactly that with a strip)
Size really, but in doing more research, it looks like the sticks have gotten freaking tiny!! They are only like 2" dongles now. I am going to get the Zi-Stick for Zigbee and the Zooz ZST39 for Zwave.
Now, just need to migrate the devices! Hope it should be easy.
Make sure you grab some USB extension cables too. Don't wanna plug them directly into the USB ports
Oh, I haven't heard this. I never had an issue with my Nortek doing this. Is it due to interference?
Interference yeah. I've never really had an issue with it but it appears to be very common. YMMV. I've also had my sticks on an extension cable for years soooo haha
There's a video in the pins in #zigbee-archived that shows it nicely.
hey folks, what is the bare minimum hardware required to run HA? and have you tried it on a risc-v devboard?
Pi3B equivalent, and even that's gonna be underwhelming
I'd suggest a 2 GB Pi4 is the practical minimum
What is the IO requirement? Do i need a ssd or nvme for it?
No but SD Cards are not reliable so if you use a pi one is recommended. I recommend a used (U)SFF PC, a Thin Client or a Mini PC instead of a pi: #general-archived message
Only use SD cards if you're happy to face data loss and an unreliable system
mini pc then. thanks folks
Think about if you can benefit from virtualization in this case: #hardware-archived message
Hm would it make sense to go with a Lenovo m720q (8400T) instead of a hp 800 G3 (6500T) for about 50 bucks more
Not sure if there is a noise difference aswell
I have a refurbished 800-g3-7500t. Never had any glitch with it (24/7 for 2 years). Network card is rock solid, cpu and motherboard too....
I had to fight a bit with the bios, but at the and it is now "power on after power failure" ( VERY IMPORTANT TO ME) and Wake-on-lan ( tested but never used).
Nothing to really complain. Upgraded immedialely to 32Gb of ram.
Not totaly silent, but OK at 1 meter. May be i should check the thermal paste and or replace the fan. I can't tell about Lenovo and others...
Some time ago I had Eve energy power adapters with which you could read out the power consumption. Unfortunately, they broke after a short time. I saw the TRETAKT power adapters in Ikea yesterday and thought to myself, oh come on, they're zigbee-capable, that's sure to work. Today I set up the power adapter (conbee II) and realized that you can't read out any values with this power adapter. Am I doing something wrong? Will there be an update? Or have I thrown money down the drain here? I wanted to plug the power adapter between the washing machine and then be notified when the machine is finished. #TRETAKT
I would return it tomorrow: "oups, sorry, not compatible with my system..." 🙂
yeah that's probalby the best way. f%ck.
I saw right now, that INSPELNING should be able to monitor the consumption... hm... just 4 months to go...
I prefred to have devices "that just works as they should" 😉
Does anybody can recommend some good and cheap alternative?
(not gonna pay 60.- for eve energy again)
i think you're talking about zigbee green power or w/e
Ikea Tretakt was 6.90.-
which isnt really a thing for zha/z2m
Powerful yet Simple and Inexpensive Electric Power Monitor. Residential and Commercial. Open Hardware/Software.
I'm searching for a power consumption measurement device (cheep as possible).
US or EU ?
