#hardware-archived
1 messages Ā· Page 61 of 1
afaik the sensors that are better at sensing multiple people or where in the room you are, are worse at static presence detection?
Cameras are fine if you don't keep recordings and keep them all local
That's quite possible with HA and other software
Unfortunatelly this will confuse things as there is a new rule from APRIL 30th that does not allow any kind of device that records video or audio inside rental apartments
Well, that rules out most sound sensors too š
Otherwise, mmWave and/or beam break sensors either side of a door to estimate occupancy
Imagine this has to be in one Plaque
to be placed inside the living room
not in multiple places inside the house
Then one mmWave sensor and guess
ok
ld2450 can detect multiple people i think, but it's not as good at detecting people that are standing still
some people use a combination of ld2450 and ld2410 to get the benefits of both
cheap on aliexpress, but also used in the screek one and the everything presence lite i think
What about Sound level sensors, what you would recommend it has to be able to get noise data and then we will create a logic to identify different scenarios like parties
@copper hill you know what multiple people means? Also does it neglect moving objects like fans and other?
You can probably #diy-archived a sound sensor solution
And no, mmWave can't tell fans from people from pets
fans could be problematic but since the ld2450 can tell you appropximately where it's detecting presence, maybe it's possible to exclude it
but it can only track a limited amount of people (..or objects)
What's your actual goal here? Why do you want all this?
Like?
Like parties
So, most mmWave sensors top out at a handful of people/objects, you won't be able to tell the difference between 4 (say) and 40
For a single device then a sound level sensor is your only realistic option, at least if they don't have a silent disco
Can you elaborate more on the sound sensors as they are more important on the project, I understand from information that I have received from you and the internet that if i try to do the number of people recording
what are the different technologies and given the scenario presented which would you recommend?
I'm not aware of any commercial solutions for what you want. You're almost certainly going to have to build your own from ESPs and some sensors
#diy-archived could help you, if you have the skills and patience to build them
House Assistant can facilitate any hardware device if implemented? I mean am i restricted to the hardware that I can use on my plaque?
Home*
Maybe
HA doesn't support everything, it can't
If you #diy-archived with ESPHome then it'll work. If you buy a #zigbee-archived or #zwave-archived or even #thread-archived device it should work. Anything else WiFi is a roll of the dice
Research before buying
@sudden kettle Also, if you're renting the house, you're going to really want to watch out for wire tapping laws, if it records in any way you may run afoul if you're not part of the conversation in some locales, some locales require 2 party consent regardless, and many don't allow for it at all if you're not actually in the conversation yourself
anyone use OpenSpinkler and HA? or an alternative?
hi,
i try to setup a conbee III. Steps i have already done:
- updated to latest firmware version of my conbee III stick successfully: https://deconz.dresden-elektronik.de/deconz-firmware/deCONZ_ConBeeIII_0x26510900.bin.GCF
- updated my Home Assistant Core to the latest version: 2024.5.4
- I'm using the Supervised installation method.
After setting up "Zigbee Home Automation" i see Conbee III with: Failed setup, will retry. If i hover over the message i see: Failed to deliver packet: <TXStatus.APS_NO_ACK: 167>
Any ideas how to proceed?
The #zigbee-archived channel can help there
Do make sure you put the stick on a USB extension cable (see the pinned messages in #zigbee-archived)
(though hopefully you meant HAOS, and not Supervised)
Thank you i will post there
Hey all, Has anyone worked on the HIHI Phone 2 (HIHI-40HK-TAB) before? I have recently got a few of these and was wondering if anyone has gotten around there weird phone app and contacts? I have started using these as a dashboard but would like the phone to work around the the 5 devices i have and maybe externally?
There are also pins on the bottom and looking through the diagnostics app on it, they are for power, ethernet and GPIO. It seems to have a "handheld on cradle" sensor that would be nice to pull into HA.
It would be a plus to use them for calling but i did just get them for dashboards and at £16 per unit im happy with that.
Im also facing an issue with the 2 notifications in the pictures that cannot be dissabled. Any help with that would be great!
Are the mmWave sensors accurate enough to tell where someone is walking in a room? (and are the Home Assistant integrations capable?)
I'd like to use one on the wall of our bathroom to see if the person entering is going to the closet, the toilet, the shower, or a sink.
wouldnt that simply be a zoned detection
Depends on the sensor. Some of them have zones that you can setup while others just use energy gates. AFAIK, only 3 mmWave sensors support zones, the ETO sensor, The Apollo MTR-1 and the Aqara FP2. There might be others, but I don't know of any.
Cool, so you configure the "zones" in the sensor itself, then react to it in HA?
Correct. The ones I have, the Apollo MTR-1 and the FP2, you define the zones and then there are sensors that tell you when someone is in that zone.
Sweet! Thanks!
Youāre welcome 
im not sure where to look, but im looking to hook up a 4-20ma pressure tranmitter to Home Assistant. my thought was to use esphome, but im really not sure what im doing. I was going to convert the 4-20ma to 0-3.3V if need be to use a esp-32. Any ideas?
Signs are not looking good: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/611098/4-20ma-current-loop-and-esp32
The ADC has appallingly-bad characteristics (linearity, stability, noise, tolerance) and is only worthwhile because of the price (which is zero). You should research this before going any further down this path.
Good news is it looks like an external I2C 4-20mA input isn't expensive: https://shop.m5stack.com/products/ain4-20ma-unit
Description AIN4-20mA Unit is a highly capable single-channel 4~20mA current analog measurement unit. Powered by the STM32G030F6 main control chip, it communicates seamlessly with the M5 host through i2c, ensuring efficient and reliable data transmission. This unit offers flexibility in wiring options, allowing users t
So i would use that and connect that to an esp32?
i bought a 4-20mA to 3.3V adapter. So really i just need to figure out how to program an esp32 with esphome and incorporate it with home assistant. I fairley new and learning all this. I feel like this might be above my level
Are there any good outdoor light sensors? (Preferably zigbee)I feel like I could do the math on light levels <--> power output but that feels a bit too hacky to me
https://www.eyezon.com/uno-m1.html - anyone tried this? Looks like a good replacement for a wired security system if you still want monitoring and local HA API
EyezOn
Seems to be based on a DSC system, and the monitoring with LTE is dirt cheap @ 12.50/month
just check yeelink.light.lamp1 no longer bypass the lan control due to manufacture updates ?
The assertion of that post is the analogue to digital converter in the ESP is garbage and you won't get reliable readings.
Turning current into voltage with a resistor voltage divider is a time-honoured method, but if you can't get a good measure of the voltage, ain't gonna help.
Curiously what are you measuring the pressure of? Air? (atmospheric pressure, or other)? Water?
Does anyone here use a PA system sort of thing? Like to talk from one room to another?
Does anyone here have the Homewizard WiFi watermeter in the UK? Interested to know how it performs on battery mode, anyone's experiences and also how it handles being in a watermeter chamber in the UK - my perspective is that it doesn't look exactly weatherproofed, but I might just be being cynical
From not being in the UK I cannot really make a statement on the later. While battery operation works as advertised, both the update interval and the 35l per minute max measurement amount is not really enough for if you try to meter a house (think flushing the toilet while watering the garden)
Since then I just run it off USB C power which gives near realtime updates into ha including current flow measurements
Does anybody have any recommendation for a window AC unit that supports local control either through its own integration or a peripheral? (US-based)
(Weāre finally in the market to replace one of our ancient little units⦠due to it dying of old age, haha)
After a string of good luck with cheap Zigbee generic / 'Tuya' sensors from AliExpress, I think I finally got a dud - this temp sensor seems to report 32F for long stretches in between (seemingly pretty accurate) readings (see image). What would y'all do - try to write something to ignore the 32s and take a recent average of readings above that, or toss it and wait weeks for more to arrive from China?
Toss it and buy something not Tuya or Sonoff
But theyr'e so cheap, and they work well (excpet when they don't, haha)
Buy cheap, buy twice
Buy Tuya, buy thrice
ā¢ļø
I'm in the early stages of my HA journey and seem to be learning age-old lessons frequently
(Looks at device list full of dozens of Tuya sensors, shudders)
Eventually youāll come to hate them and start replacing them bit by bit. Happens to a lot of people.
I bought one Tuya device, knowing it was likely to be bad. It hasn't disappointed
Or maybe one day in magical fantasy land, Tuya will require certification and testing of their devices.
I will say that it's great to get temperature reporting every few seconds with a precision of 0.01C
Very handy
My WiFi ones are behaving well⦠but Zigbee. Nope. Been there, done that.
I'll search, too, but if anyone has a rock-solid temperature / humidity sensor they recommend, feel free to share.
- In the US
- Budget: under $30, ideally under $20, since I'd like to eventually have more than a few
- No "must have" protocol, though I suppose I prefer Zigbee over anything else
- No necessary features other than must be battery-powered, and temperature and humidity sensing with a reasonable polling rate ...
My preference is Aqara t/h sensors. Fairly cheap, stable, but occasionally one or two of them will have weird battery reporting issues.
For the battery life you can simply ignore the reporting and change them once they drop off the network. Or regularly once a year, even tho they somewhat last longer than that
Just confirming that you're referring to these? And, if so, that the 'not support third party hubs' does NOT mean that you can't add them to home assistant with a Zigbee controller? https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-WSDCGQ11LM-Temperature-Humidity-Sensor/dp/B07D37FKGY/
NOTES: This device requires the Aqara Smart Home Hub to Work. We don't guarantee that our devices can be used with other third party brand hubs. Requires a secured 2. 4 gigahertz Wi-Fi network connection. One Aqara Hub can connect up to 32 Aqara devices.Note: AqaraDirect sells all official US ver...
We do refer tho those
You can simply ignore that, usually that just means that custom features do not work, which there are kinda none on a temp reader
Yeah, that's what I do now (along with availability in Z2M). I've only had one drop off and that was because I dropped 4 routers at the same time lol 
Cool, and can also probably ignore the "Requires a secured 2.4 gigahertz Wi-Fi network" in the description? (SMH)?
Yes because that relates to the hub or some cloud service
I think, it most definitely has nothing to do with the ZigBee talking sensor
Oh I see - sorry for all the questions. Thanks! Last one (for now, hopefully) - anyone have experience ordering these off of AliExpress (where they are like $7 vs $20 on Amazon)? My sense is that for some products, you get the same thing, just skip the premium for fast delivery / Amazon tax / etc, and for others, they're not the same product?
Yes that should work for aquara aswell
Thank you all; all your help is very much appreciated.
I am looking for a long term solution for a VPN for Chromecast/smart TV. From what I have heard they try their best to prevent them on device.
So my idea is a in router VPN, for just the one Chromecast device.
Any ideas for this? I want to be able to control it with home assistant, so even my partner can say turn on the VPN.
I am a I'm ciziten living abroad craving for some British TV.
Not sure if HW is the right category, but assuming some custom built router will be required.
Something running OpnSense or pfSense would be the easiest
I tried googling it, but all I found was accessing HA though a VPN.
OpenWRT may be an option too, but I've not looked at that for years
Well, put the HA part aside
HA isn't relevant to your search here
Start by finding routers that have a VPN client - then narrow down that by checking they have a RESTful or SSH API
As long as they support one of those HA can contol it
Ah ok, so with opensense or pfsense setting up the HA part should be easy?
I'll check if my current flashed router supports those functions.
I made a multiroom audio system with RasPi 3A (audio jack) and snapcast/mopidy + some speakers as clients. I love the software but this way of doing the hardware causes a lot of dangling cables. Is there anything ready to buy that's a little more specialized / pretter / better home acceptance factor, but still able to run snapcast/mopidy (so linux based I guess)?
Building/printing a case for the whole stuff crossed my mind but is not really an option due to lack of time for another hobby right now.
I'm not sure if this is the right channel. But did anyone ever use shelly wifi button?
I'm using those exact ones to monitor the humidity of my showers and trigger the exhaust fan. They work really well in ZHA.
Awesome. Thanks! Getting one next day shipped to test it, and will probably buy more from Alibaba if they work well for me. I appreciate you sharing!
Looking for some help on how to solve a small issue, trying to update my Athom PS1 and getting an error: ERROR Error binary size: Error: ESP does not have enough space to store OTA file. Please try flashing a minimal firmware (remove everything except ota).
Is my only option serial flash?
#diy-archived can better help there
I bought a couple of broken 1940s and earlier radios on marketplace for <$50 each, gutted them, and put my audio system inside the gutted case with just a power cord coming out.
Add motor to cellular window blinds
hey everyone. im trying to get my voice assistant to work with a USB speaker. anyone done this before?
nm i got it to work
Heya folks. Am I in the UK, and I'm trying to figure out how to connect a Sonoff zbminil2 behind a 2-way switch on the end that closes the loop. Due to shitty construction, I can't open the switch that comes from the live, and I can't figure out where I would put what here. Any ideas or anyone who has had to do the same?
I am using espHome. I currently have 3 devices that I actively keep up to date but soon will be adding a lot more. Is it possible to use a VM to compile the images for the devices? It takes a long time on my Pi CM4.
The experts in #diy-archived would know more
You donāt have to run the esphome dashboard inside haos but the better option is simply migrating off a pi4 to a mini pc for your entire haos install
Does anyone have any reolink panning/rotating cameras? Does HA let you control the camera pan/rotate?
Reolink cameras arenāt suggested here except for their doorbell. Jump to #cameras-archived for specifics
shot them a message
Hey yall, looking for HA compatible bulb suggestions, A19, 1000 lumen or more LED bulbs either color temp adjustable or bright white, that arent hard to integrate. I have HA OS running in a proxmox vm. I have zibgee and zwave working, along with BT. I tried several brands, singled wifi were nigh on impossible. The current bulbs I have, flicker all the time.
Buy once cry once and get hue bulbs and pair them to your zigbee mesh
Just donāt kill power to them as they act as routers on your zigbee mesh
Cry because of the price?
Yes
Hue are kinda the gold standard
Innr are a close second
Gledopto aren't that far behind
Is innr the company that hue employees split off from or is that third reality
Ikea's whites are ok, but their colour bulbs are meh
well going cheap got me this mess and a Wirelessradio thermostat, so I am over being cheap LOL
Itās not about cost
Itās about the protocol used, the brand, the actual product itself
Sengled bulbs are widely considered not great, especially in terms of colors and flickering. Plus their zigbee bulbs donāt route which goes against the zigbee protocol
ick
Transitions with hue bulbs are so nice
30 seconds just perfectly dims without you even being able to detect it in a one second window with your eyes
Youāll want to pair the hue bulbs with a zigbee light switch such as inovelli blue which are $50 each
So more crying
Iām a fan of smart bulbs + smart switch combo for full control
hmm what about just intgrating a toggle action with another smart device?
If you donāt need color you can do dimmer smart switches
Problem is two fold
cause I am in an apartmet
Sucks
You can tape the lights up
Or get some adapters that screw in over the old light switch
are the hue generally ok in enclosed fixtures?
And have a zigbee battery powered switch over it
Depends on the enclosure - any LED bulb needs airflow
Yeah I have several single button zigbee buttons with no use could mount them on the switch plate
Cooking bulbs shortens their lifespan
These work fine and thereās adapters to go over light switches
Itās not ideal but youāre in an apt
yeah they already will be mad about the T6 thermostat but oh well
Iāve had one hue bulb die out of 40 and it wasnāt the ones baking in Texas summers..
Thats pretty good, I have has several non smart cree led bulbs go bad so thats good to know
Thanks yall!
Hey I just got ESP32-S3-BOX-3, I installed the voice assistant from this site: https://esphome.io/projects/index.html?type=voice , it succesfully installed, but now the device has a frowning face and No Wi-Fi, with QR code there that leads to https://www.home-assistant.io/voice_control/troubleshooting_the_s3_box/#error-unable-to-connect-to-wi-fi . I still have no idea what to do there, the 1. 2. point is weird. I have nowhere to select the wifi.. it just goes straight to "No Wi-Fi" on the display. I also don't see a new device even when I keep it connected to USB and going to ESPHome dashboard. Even after reseting the device. What do?
Is there like, no way to set the wifi ssid and password like in the normal ESPHome code?
what type of hardware do you need for recognizing when someone clap?
My personal blog website
the only way is with ESPhome?
no other devices?
why would you think this?
idk, you sent me an ESPhome device
so i just asked if theres other types or only with ESPhome
i sent you a link showing you how someone made a device using a sensor
you can then google that sensor lol
Detecting a clap would work somewhat different in code but the hardware will mostly be the same
no one actually sells an actually ready up device?
For multiple decades there has been the clapper
yeah i see that, but ahah i doesnt look really good HAHAH
It doesn't for rather obvious limitations
Most of which you would also experience with any newer tech
why no one makes them? no one really buys them?
Compared to voice assistants or simple remotes that's just not convenient
It doesn't work properly enough
a clap simply isnt easy to differenciate from other noises
you have to sing the whole song
https://github.com/ChuckMash/WLED/tree/Smack_That_Usermod/usermods/smack_that you can pay someone to make you one
Control WS2812B and many more types of digital RGB LEDs with an ESP8266 or ESP32 over WiFi! - ChuckMash/WLED
smack that uuuu
errmm so
After reading back since my last message. It seems like there is a mix and match mostly for zigbee because of easy compatiblity than wifi. Is that correct?
Technically, yeah... there's a bunch of different options depending on what you want and where you are in the world. I think you said power monitoring?
Yes. I did. I'd like to monitor my Home lab consumption. I'm starting to change my mind and stop getting wifi and get zigbee instead i'm over it
Eh, the ThirdReality plugs are good and available on Amazon (US only though, I think).
Innr do power monitoring plugs everywhere
(well, maybe not Aus, nobody seems to like making stuff for them)
Yup. True.
Hue's the pure gold standard, Innr's like 9 kt gold standard
It really depends on your budget. Hue: $$$$, Innr: $$$ (I think last time I checked). 3rdR: $.
Yeah, spend the money on the stuff that really matters, and go cheap-n-good-enough for everything else
Routers matter
Door/window sensors you can go cheap-ish on
Don't buy Tuya
Don't buy Sonoff
I have a question about the eve water guard https://www.amazon.com/Eve-Water-Guard-Notifications-Bluetooth/dp/B09TB72Z5N, because I might want to buy it.
If it's added to home assistant, does it have a switch to turn off the alarm sound? Because I don't want to scare the neighbors with that loud soundš
That's more a question for another channel
There's a channel for #yellow-archived if you have questions about it.
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
If you have problems with the Blue or your installation see #installation-archived.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://www.codepile.net/ or https://paste.debian.net/ to share code or logs
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Depending on the integration it uses you want either #integrations-archived or #bluetooth-archived
Oh, it supports #thread-archived
So you probably want that or #matter-archived
Well... thread is part of matter
It says on the site it doesn't support matter
Not sure you can do thread and not do matter, but they'll know over in #thread-archived
Hey I had a quick question about a speaker/alarm for my house when a door is opened after a certain time. I have the zwave sensors, just need a good way to alert the house.
oh boy do i have the link for you
https://smarthomescene.com/guides/alarmo-make-your-own-alarm-system-in-home-assistant/ really easy to follow guide using alarmo in home assistant and w/e sensors you want
works amazingly
So do I just need to get a zwave speaker or something and itll play out of it through alarmo?
oh
sorry i guess i misunderstood
you just want a zwave siren? get the aoetec one
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Speaker-Wall-Mounted-Security-Intruder/dp/B07P8ZRWQM check if there is a newer model 7
Add unmissable indoor alarms to your Z-Wave system with the Aeotec Z-Wave Siren 6. This Z-Wave Plus plug-in siren emits audio and visual alerts when triggered by connected Z-Wave devices. Choose from fifteen different alarm tones to designate individual triggered sensors or devices. Each alert to...
or even 8 idk
Oh okay awesome! Thank you
After looking at alarmo
Could I just have our phones/tablets be the "speakers"?
That's cheaper and prefered.
alarmo - various zwave and zigbee sensors (including on my gate and doors) - ring v2 keypad (zwave connected not ring cloud bullshit)
i then pass alarmo to homekit (siri) so when the alarm goes off all my phones/tablets go off
plus the ring alarm v2 keypad goes off
plus w/e you setup in hass automations or alarmo
you could go a step further or 10 and do things like make lights flash red and blue
one guy has a custom script playing like "welcome to the jungle" on all the speakers in teh house
You read my mind sir lol
@wild swift remind me what is your "come and take it" song when alarm is triggered?
you can also do neat things like trigger on a sensor (such as a frigate camera detecting a person in a specific zone such as driveway after midnight)
This is awesome. Thank you for the link and saving me $80 lol
i get half right
if you are buying the siren and i would buy the ring keypad v2 as well. it's actually crazy how well everything just works together
i have home assistant arm the alarm when i leave the house and disarm when i get back
if i disarm the alarm via siri it's instantly shown on the keypad as disarmed and announces it
it's just fucking great
I have a Schlage keypad Im really liking. This will be for my sliding gladd door in the back.
that is a zwave device or a cloud device?
schlage are notoriously bad with zwave firmware and are not suggested :x
https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Alarm-Keypad/dp/B07ZB2DFMB this is what i have and suggest if you pair it with alarmo and join it to a zwave mesh
Its a zwave device. I never knew that. I even got the recommendation from here lol
Found a new one of these in clearance today so got it dirty cheap. Is there any way to integrate it into home assistant? I attached the manual for it
chances are low
Apparently it uses tuya wifi and the smart living app.
LocalTuya4lyfe
well the cool kids dont use tuya
they dont buy or support random chyna shit :x
something something make firmware great again
Some of us didn't get a choice with what chip is in their aircon š
I'm kind of curious, why is this not blown open? Why can't it just be hacked or reverse engineered so don't need any tuya nonsense
it used to be
they started using new chipsets that couldnt be flashed over
cuz they want user data
cuz evil
So there's no way to fake the tuya side locally?
there is
google the thing he said above
local tuya i guess
i think there's some initial chyna app fuckery to get a token
my bad, localtuya is the pain in the bum, tuya local is the one that works
but yes, you need to make a dev account and stuff to get the details for it
Oh I thought that was still tuya provided by the actual tuya people. Let me review it
tuya people lol
Hahaha you know what I mean
tuya is a mainland chinese "company" that anyone can go to and say "i have money make me this DaDdY"
and then they add it to their chinese wifi/zigbee/bt hub so it works with anything smart life
Is it correct that motion sensors should keep checking for updates and the log for that sensor would update? I have a zibee motion sensor that doesn't consistently update. I can force an automation to run and I will see it update in the log.
does the state go to unavailable? what sensor
it depends on the sensor, but most only update on state change
or sometimes will send an update every (e.g.) 10 minutes otherwise to let you know they're still alive
The state will go unavailable . I was just under the impression it would keep checking
then you might have an interference issue or a lack of a mesh
are you using a usb based coordinator?
I'm having an issue with an automation and I'm trying to pind down if it's the automation or the sensor
I'm using a skyconnect
is it on a usb extension cable? https://youtu.be/tHqZhNcFEvA this 30second clip shows what can happen
USB 3.0 can cause your Zigbee devices to fully stop functioning. In this video we show this by moving a Zigbee device and Zigbee adapter next to USB 3.0 port and cable.
The demo is done with a Home Assistant SkyConnect and IKEA Tradfri remote but this affects all Zigbee sticks and devices.
To avoid interference, use a shielded USB 2.0 extensio...
how many mains repeater devices do you have and how far away is the sensor
i.e. light bulbs, plugs, switches
Right now 1 and it's about 20 feet away through a wall
that's probably a problem
I'm going to be added more soon
zigbee is a mesh protocol
one sensor way far away that is battery powered isnt going to net you a lot of success
the solution is literally throw money at the problem
I've got about 20 Sengled bubls on order
noononon
It's powered
https://support.sengled.com/hc/en-us/articles/115010871308-Do-any-Sengled-Zigbee-devices-act-as-Zigbee-repeaters here's them explaining why they break zigbee spec
also they are generally considered a bad device
colors bad, transitions bad, lifetime of bulb low, just bad
Well right now I have Govee and they're worse for home automation
so it's that or hue
you buy hue bulbs
which is 4x the cost
and you add them to your mesh
and you never power them off
profit
rgbw bulbs from hue are rough at $50+ each
the white/white+color temp arent terribly expensive
I need 12 candelabra lights
yikes
$45 a pop
and they must be rgbw?
you'll regret going sengled
i've helped so many people and most do
however the wife loves the scenes
These are like front door, hallway lights
She has like mist green and other colors
They don't really change
idk man the best thing i can say is buy once cry once
next i'm gonna tell you to buy $50 light switches to pair them with
killing power to mains repeater devices breaks routes for other devices
We never turn off switches
so the only real way to setup smart bulbs with rgbw is to also have smart switches in smart bulb mode
Everything is controlled through Alexa or motion sensors
well you can tape them off or put covers over or just not touch sure
The issue is I have IR sensors right now and I'm trying to switch to mm sensors
but i also use switches as overrides
i.e. double tap = 30% brightness in all rooms
another popular thing is people use the led bar on the light switch above to act as a status light for door locks or alarm systems whether armed/disarmed
motion sensors but not zigbee?
sadcat
I can't drop $1k to start this going
it is what it is
I'd love to get all aqara, and hue stuff
buying low quality random chinese stuff and throwing it on your mesh will lead to trouble
it's a double edged sword
I have to show qol improvements
then I can slowly ramp up
i get it
that's the whole reason you want to do it right the first time
not "deal with it" til you can afford better by sacrificing quality for quantity
that doesnt mean you have to start with $1000 worth of hardware
it means compromise until you can afford to do otherwise
yeah it would be nice if there were other quality bulbs other than hue though
you can try ikea they are like hue lite
i'd expect them to die sooner / slightly worse in every way
like doesnt support a thing or three in firmware you wish it did 6 months from now
about?
HA
ask questions man lots of people around to help
Right now I'm trying to figure out why my automation isn't running the first step
@cinder jasper definitely research......This is the way
well
your automation doesnt matter if the motion sensor goes unavailable cuz the coordinator cant reach it man
What kind of automation?
that's what our whole chat has been about lol
It was until I changed the sensor from occupied to motion
share the automation yaml
@cinder jasper I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
wait that's my old one
@cinder jasper I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
@cinder jasper I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
share the link it gives you
before going through the logic of the code can you explain your end goal
or rather expectation of the logic of the automation?
someone walks in the kitchen those lights turn on, when no motion is detected they turn off
okay
well first let's start with using entities instead of devices
trigger:
- type: motion
platform: device
device_id: 8b33c82d8eb4750360d15ad690e8bab5
entity_id: 036187f0c685e1492f785646218794a0
domain: binary_sensor
id: Kitchen On
``` this turns into
```yaml
platform: state
entity_id:
- binary_sensor.kitchen_motion
to: "on"
id: Detected
alias: Kitchen motion detected
way easier to read, but also it allows you to replace any sensor or light or whatever and just rename it the same as the old one. with devices it uses that specific device_id that is unique to every device, a "UUID"
Is on the attribute?
huh?
I was in the editor
only options are unavailable and unkown
that's because of our convo above
you can edit the yaml and type it in
it wont auto fill cuz those arent available cuz.. the device isnt available to home assistant.. cuz you need a zigbee mesh š
I just did a simple test of if occupied turn on light and it worked
cool
or maybe just that specific communication succeeded
So should HA recognize that status
@cinder jasper it's easier to do one step at a time. That's how I learned the hard way for setting up scripts
and REVIEW LOGS!!! Logbook is your best friend to take advantage of devices
I might hit you up though. BEcause I'm gonna buy prensence muwave
I don't see an aqara mm wave sensor for zigbee only wifi
aqara has a fp1 that is old for zigbee
if you want mmwave buy a msr-2 or mtr-1 from apollo automation
wifi not zigbee and plug in only but they're making good products
The issue we have is that the sensors I have now won't detect people if they're not moving a lot
so I read mm wave solves that
or I would have gotten the P1
you want both depending on scenario
if you want to track a person walking into kitchen you use pir aka motion sensor
if you want to track a person sitting on a couch, or even multiple, you use a mmwave sensor
or ultrasonic but that's oldschool
but mains powered mmwave react pretty fast now
so dual dedicated PIR + mmwave arent really necessary per room in most scenarios
That's what lead me to a tuya mm sensor
I was ignoring the hues bulbs I currently have
so I have more devices in the mesh
This is what I was looking at v
APP Remote Control:It detect micro/macro motions enables you to detect human presence within a configured distance.and get alerts in real time via app. Adapter are not included,User can wire with power source directly.Working voltage:AC80-220V Specifications: Product name:Human presence sensor Wi...
I got basically the same thing in a different package
the tuya mmwave zigbee sensor sends 3x packets a second shitting on any mesh it's a part of
Precise human movement detection - This Zigbee Radar Sensor uses millimeter wave technology to detect even small changes in movement for maximum accuracy. Perfect for knowing when someone enters or exits a room Tuya smart life App Control - Easily control your human motion detector from the Tuya ...
I got 3 of those
and that's directly from the zha maintainer
Everything after the last / can go.
if it's the same sensor inside then you have a problem
yea we arent big on tracking links bb
still could use a lil trim lmao
Sorry, my bad, everything after L66J/.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7C6L66J anything after that first / when there is no more random digits
thx
but yeah
honestly it's very product dependent if you can just buy from amazon
for a lot of stuff you can... but also for a lot of stuff you cant lmao
like aliexpress?
or specific vendor sites
Yeah at least with amazon you can send it back easy if it sucks
oh
rather than fight with vendors
Do It All Ā Ā PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Z-Wave Plus DimmerĀ (up toĀ 75 W LEDs and 250 W incandescent) and On/Off Relay in one The first Z-Wave double wall switch! Here are some ideas for how to use it in your smart home. Direct replacement for fan / light combo switches or other double switches in your home NEW 800 chip:Ā Ā more r
like this is $25 and they are selling the 800 series new version on their website
or you can spend $39 and buy the 700 last gen series on amazon (prob their old stock)
I don't have any zwave
ya just one bulb between it would be enough
well
I may have screwed up
I have a hue bridge and the skyconnect
So that would be 2 meshes?
I assume fun means pairing each one individually to the skyconnect
specifically starting with closest to the skyconnect, yepperz!
but first
can you post your skyconnect debug log dump? it will show what your channel utilization is
basically here's what happened: you had hue, you added skyconnect, it did a zigbee energy scan where it saw the hue bridge, your wifi APs, your neighbors, etc, then it decided on what channel to use
now you are unplugging the hue bridge, which means you will be removing interference on some zigbee channel
that's in ZHA?
so i'd like to confirm you arent currently on a zigbee channel which has high interference
zha is zigbee home automation, it's what is built into home assistant and what you most likely setup when you plugged in your skyconnect
i dont use or suggest it, but it works well for those who use it
for HA?
yeah
I think it's not supposed tos how up because since it's a device you would use ZHA and it'll pick up your skyconnect. That's ate least according to my research
you might want to move to #zigbee-archived and ask the people there who use zha
i didnt push you there cuz we kept going back to hardware lol
I was just trying to find the log you wanted
You can download integration diagnostics by going to Settings -> Integrations -> then clicking the three dots next to ZHA -> download diagnostics.
ok I've got the json
@cold moon what's your motion presence sensor?
I know. but what do you have?
i use hue PIR/motion sensors plus one aqara p1 zigbee 3.0 motion sensor
for presense i have two fp1 (dont buy these, old)
i have one msr-1, one msr-2, one mtr-1
I just came off the website. I dno't see the Hue sensor ones?
hue are pir
what website
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Motion-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B01KJYSOGI/ I have these they wook good for initial detection
they however don't work well for occupation at all
yep
you really have to move around
So even eating at the table the lights will turn off
that is what the msr-2 and mtr-1 are for https://apolloautomation.com/products/msr-2 this can track one person and ignore things like a cat or fan at different lengths (i have one on my stairs it works flawlessly)
Description We are excited to introduce the Apollo MSR-2 sensor, a updated version of our popular MSR-1, developed with your feedback. The MSR-2 builds on the foundation of the MSR-1, incorporating several incremental upgrades to enhance performance and usability. Whatās New? ⢠Compact Design: The MSR-2 comes in a smal
it is paired with a hue PIR sensor
so whichever triggers first starts but i will be removing the PIR cuz the msr-2 is just as fast
not zigbee but fully local with esphome over wifi
if you go mtr-1 instead you can track up to three people and denote zones to track
Disclaimer: Currently having issues saving the zones after restarting the device when using this met...
i havent played with my mtr-1 yet to be honest
I'm gonna take up on that that is SOOOO SMALL!!
it is lol
you can get their custom adapter and a usb c power supply and it sits on the wall taking up no space
let me get a pic
they have their own discord server and are really friendly. I cant recommend them enough
ultimately they are using open source firmware and off the shelf components but they're building custom PCBs, keeping it fully local, and providing free updates for life. plus they just seem like good people
energy_scan": {
"11": 95.12234809209261,
"12": 95.69133648577223,
"13": 95.69133648577223,
"14": 92.0598007161209,
"15": 95.12234809209261,
"16": 78.25348754651363,
"17": 95.12234809209261,
"18": 84.164247274957,
"19": 46.26944564832987,
"20": 97.39286236923465,
"21": 96.19660508390695,
"22": 97.39286236923465,
"23": 97.39286236923465,
"24": 97.97769123383605,
"25": 73.50699819621309,
"26": 87.33047519856483
Was that what you were wanting earlier
damn bro
we're gonna file that under shit's fucked
the lower the number the less interference on the band out of 100%
and you only want to care about 15/20/15
so 95% on 15, 97% on 20, and 73% on 25 makes it an easy decision (this is still pretty bad dude)
can you check what zigbee channel your hue bridge is using?
@keen hollow I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
please move to #diy-archived
and use dpaste.org to share code so we get pretty colors and no text wall ā¤ļø
I had put it on 19
dont do that
you change channel everything disconnects
also you use ZLL channels only
11/15/20/25 ONLY but 11 is right in the middle of wifi so rarely useful
so 15/20/25 ONLY
ZHA says 25 now that I put it back on auto
ya
i member
either way man
you will lose hue scenes cuz you arent using hue integration
you can remake them
but if that matters, fyi
trying to find the hue channel
20
channel": {
"status": "set",
"value": "channel_20"
},
ya
unplug the hue bridge
and run an energy scan
i think just rebooting home assistant OS maybe even just a restart will do a new scan with ZHA
it would be good to get on the lowest interference channel
energy_scan": {
"11": 92.95959997754716,
"12": 95.12234809209261,
"13": 95.12234809209261,
"14": 91.05606689948522,
"15": 96.19660508390695,
"16": 62.257682586134884,
"17": 82.35373987514762,
"18": 78.25348754651363,
"19": 62.257682586134884,
"20": 65.26028270288712,
"21": 97.97769123383605,
"22": 97.7033852118351,
"23": 95.69133648577223,
"24": 96.19660508390695,
"25": 73.50699819621309,
"26": 80.38447947821754
No hue
I should check what my wifi channels are
that's the overlap
the coneheads are zigbee the sombreros are wifi
more touchy bad
well
if, by 2.4, you mean WLAN, that explains the high numbers for 21-25
that's the worst option
11 wifi is the orange tophat to the far right above lol
easy fix
no
changing wifi channel is
you want the least interference possible for zigbee and wifi.. figure out what is best
1/6/11 wifi, 15/20/25 zigbee
round peg round hole square peg square hole
i think it's called the honeycomb pattern for wifi
ye
See you would think that
WLAN devices will adapt to whatever channel you're using, while Zigbee requires re-pairing
The problem lies in the fact that I have Comcast
and I haven't gotten my second AP yet to setup pfsense again
Yeah
Random one for the brains trust: rechargeable button batteries - are these a thing? My BLE plant sensors chew 2032s pretty quickly and would love to just chuck rechargeable batteries in them.
"ML2032"
They are 3.6V rather than 3V though, and I've read that can play havoc with some sensors
Or apparently "LIR2032"
Hey everyone. I have a Beelink N100 with 500GB SSD. I just bought an SSD Sata III with 2TB to put on the extension case they have inside and I also plan to have a usb external HDD for backups.
My question, is the internal 500GB enough for proxmox? Or should I wait to install it on the extented SSD with the 2TB? Will proxmox will be able to use the 2TB for new VMs if I install it in the 500GB SSD?
Yes 500G is enough for PVE. Yes you can add the 2TB later and use it as additional data store.
Most of my nodes have their own boot drive and another one for the VMs/CTs.
Great. That will save time. I have the beelink for a week now and I just waited for the new SSD to come. But now I can start playing with it without further waiting š
You can actually start right away and migrate the VM, or rather its disk, to another data store later.
I plan to follow this guide for installation. Is there a better one or that's fine? https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html
It's okay. I recommend setting up everything yourself rather than using the helper scripts though. It greatly hinders the learning experience in my opinion.
Also see here: #1236830688859390003 message
You mean about the actual VMs like HAOS and not the proxmox. Right?
Skip all those wget things basically.
It think you learn quite a lot it you have to research all the options you have when creating a VM and what to pick and why.
I explained how do add the HAOS image to a VM here: #installation-archived message
ok. Good to know. I have a software background, but I have never got into hardware, so all those terms are like totally new to me
Guys when building hardware to recognise noise inside an apartment specifically parties, is MEMS microphone the best technology around?
#diy-archived can help you with building stuff
@slim lagoon let me double check my understanding. Hue and innr are made by same people yes?.....
No. Not at all. Innr was started by 2 ex-Philips engineers though. But, it's its own company.
OH!
lol stop that
Sorry. I had a question but I changed my mind!!
Fine. Be that way... š
lol ah come on
Hello, I've been looking for LAN controlled smart AU plugs. Seems like the best option is to flash Tasmota onto cloud controlled smart plugs. Any suggestions for a 1st time flash with an FT232 FTDI USB adapter?
Think I'll buy Shelly (appears to be best quality) in-wall mini relays for power sockets, but some individual devices on 8xpower boards need individual control.
Also, any tips for smart LAN lights and finally LAN garage door controller (possibly also a Shelly relay, but I'm unclear how that would work)?
Best to order in 1 go, to reduce shipping costs.
Are people using Tasmota a lot here? I've never heard of it until I joined this Discord. So cool.
I don't have any stats but you get over 9000 results if you search for it here š¤·
So to integrate with Tasmota... you have to setup an integration in HA to a MQTT broker? And then you can control Tasmota devices in HA?
I've had ok results with the Meross ones - no need to do any flashing . Meross integration is in HACS (https://www.amazon.com.au/Monitor-Control-Function-Compatible-Certified/dp/B07MNL86JJ/ref=sr_1_5_pp)
I have a Meross Garage door opener sitting here that I've just not installed. (i need a slightly taller ladder)
If you want something you don't need to flash I recommend either pre-flashed tasmota ones such as ones from athom or just simply use zigbee plugs.
Zigbee is fine for on/off but not for power monitoring.
Why not?
doesn't really like that many updates.
I prefer wifi as my house has good wifi coverage as well.
(I do have zigbee devices but have found bits of my house hard to get a signal to due to various walls - whereas I can put APs on the other side of those walls and have no issues)
thanks for tip on the Athom ones though - had not seen those
I don't have any issues with multiple plugs.
Sounds like you just need more Zigbee devices that also act as repeaters to fill out the mesh
We have some challenging walls (thick brick and stone). I have tried many combinations of zigbee devices to try and fill the gaps. In the end since we have Ethernet itās easier to do it with wifi.
My day job is network engineering and ive built various kinds of networks for 30 years
Thanks, but I'm trying for the small round form factor. Looks like Wi-Fi is needed as voltage measurement would be good to see when devices like fridges are about to break. Think I'll have to learn how to flash Tasmota.
I am curious what you end up with. My use case is similar - power measurement on pool pumps, fridges etc
Could be a handy warning system with some type of phone shortcut/notification if a home device voltage shoots up, warning the fridge or whatever is on the way out.
Have you considered Z-Wave instead? Its lower frequency allows for better penetration of walls and other obstacles.
Or use the wifi I already have.
I was just giving options. Personally, I like to minimise the traffic on my wifi network & lan so I can use it for media streaming and gaming... and so that I know for sure that my smart home devices are not calling home or requiring cloud services to function.
Sure, but I've made a trade off for one less new RF network to maintain/debug/etc for a few WIFI sensors in one part of the house. I don't want to buy it just to have it not work or have another quirk.
yeah - the data is fairly noisy - I tried, for instance, to use power use to detect the washing machine been finished, but ours will stop and start (not sure why) a few times before completion so you have to wait almost 5 mins to be sure.
Hi everyone,
Iām interested in the Xiaomi Mi Flora Care Plant Sensor, and I'm wondering if anyone has experience using it outdoors. The specifications mention that it has an IP5X rating, which means it's protected against dust, but I'm unsure how well it performs in outdoor conditions, especially with exposure to rain and varying temperatures.
Has anyone used this sensor in their garden or on a balcony? How does it hold up in different weather conditions?
Iād expect it to be consumable on some level
hmm, I didn't notice that rating when I did things. I suspect you could fill it with hot glue to protect it from water, but that would make it a little more annoying to change the battery
we just moved the plant we have with one outdoors and I haven't moved a bluetooth endpoint close enough to it to get readings yet
I want to make sure I'm not reinventing the wheel here: I have 6 Heat Pumps with WiFi, but not bluetooth. They are all Tuya controlled, and internet reliant, with registration and a proprietary app (Smart Life.) Since I was working on integrating them with TuyaLocal, I ended up with e Dev account, and now have access to all of the hardware and protocol specs.
It's just a wifi to serial adapter. I want to switch it to a Pi Pico W. There's 12v available to power the Pi, and the controller in the unit expects 9600,8,n,1@3.3v. I want to slap a micro web server for direct control, an API port to connect it to Home Assistant, and basic bluetooth serial control. I've done a bunch of searching but haven't come up with any similar projects. Does anyone know of anything similar that's already been done, or am I starting from the ground up?
the nerds in #diy-archived do that kind of stuff or ideally the esphome discord server
most of us arent EE's by choice and sanity levels
plus i'd probably not trust the tuya documentation to be... good
i'd throw the idea of a pico W out the window as well in favor of an esp32
The engineering side isn't hard. It's fairly basic. I'm just asking around to see if anyone had heard of anything similar.
are you not familiar with esphome?
I'm gonna use an old Pi 3B+ to wiretap it, and verify the signals being sent beck and forth.
I have not. I'm gonna grab some familiarity, real quick.
it will probably change your life
given what you said above i think esphome would drastically minimize you reinventing the wheel
it's like legos for microcontrollers "infrastructure as code"
so you either build a pcb with an esp32+whatever you want on it, buy one premade (there are many many many of them), or buy an esp32 or similar, connect a sensor or relay or leds etc to pins, copy paste template code, change pin assignments, profit
shop | svenar
It doesn't look all that promising for Tuya support. I'm still digging through the categories though. They might already have the software side of it mostly done in there.
"tuya support"?
i guess i misunderstood, sounded like you were wanting to remove the tuya "smarts"
also if your shit is old enough you might be able to use tuya-convert
they stopped using chipsets that people could flash to open source fw cuz chyna
I have a bunch that spent the winter covered on the balcony and survived ok (gets to around -5 here). I am risking one exposed to light rain on an uncovered flower box and itās been fine for 2 months. Last year I had it in a plastic bag the whole season and there were no problems.
General question. Looking to move away from meross garage door opener to something fully local. Based on research and conversations on here, I'm thinking my current setup is not a good fit for ratgdo as it uses security+ and therefore wouldn't expose anything beyond control of the door (I think). So I'm thinking of going with a relay. Can the shelly work entirely local and what's the best way to accomplish it? Or I could go with a zooz. Would honestly like to use a aqara as my zigbee network is strongest but they are hard to find at the moment.
I would like to use one where I could utilize the reed sensor that came with the meross as it's already up there. I assume cutting it would not be a problem š
#zwave-archived message chat about using a zooz zen17 yesterday
So then if the relay knows and reports the door status to HA, does it push to HK in the same way that a meross garage door opener displays?
Awesome I'll take a look
@slim lagoon @cold moon My research for mmwave presence sensor doesn't make sense. It's showing that wifi is better than zigbee in terms of performance. What say you?
Lik I was looking a aqara and I see FP1 is zigbee but FP2 is wifi
Alternately, there is a Meross local integration as well that I use for some oil diffusers that I use: https://github.com/krahabb/meross_lan
I agree with that. I have some of the Apollo MSR-1s and MTR-1 and they blow my zigbee mmWave sensors out of the water.
(and they are priced REALLY well too)
Plus itās less traffic on the zigbee mesh
https://apolloautomation.com/ @potent patio
Experience the future of home automation with Apollo Automation. Our solutions, compatible with Home Assistant, are designed to cater to your unique household needs. Dive into a world of rapid prototyping, community-driven design, and seamless integrations. Elevate your smart home journey with Apollo
The Apollo sensors can spam and be more accurate
The gate energy tuning alone is worth every penny.
Although theyāre limited to save from taking up too much Wi-Fi airtime
And just as I say that, this pops up: #1126969334565179473 message
sigh Guess I'm ordering more sensors this weekend... lol
You mentioned this to me before and I think I forgot about it haha. Are you able to block your meross stuff from the internet then?
https://apolloautomation.com/discount/Memorial2024?redirect=%2Fproducts%2Fmultisensor-mk1%3Fvariant%3D47743950291251 copy pasted their link
Apollo Multisensor MSR-1 offers mmWave Radar for motion detection, LUX & UV sensing, accurate temperature & humidity, optional CO2 detection, RGB feedback, and alerts in a small package. Sleek design with customization options. Engage with our community and elevate your smart home with open-source resources.
Yup, but I haven't yet (my friggin' laundry list of stuff to do in HA is huge)
I was trying to drive traffic to their discord š lol
Dude... stop with the damn logic! It's too late in the afternoon for that. š¤£
No kidding about the list. When I think of how much I want to do still it almost seems crazy that anything works right now.
SAME... I'm on the struggle bus... the struggle is real... all the struggles belong to me. 
I recently added labels to my scripts and automations
Makes it easier to go find light switches etc and just feels more clean
Idk how Iād use labels themselves in scripts or automations tho
I have some added, but categories have been a lifesaver... and the new data tables.
Oh that's easy... So, for me, I have a label called "Fan Manager" and I have an automation for every fan in the house... if I want to override the fans for whatever reason, I just call the automation.turn_off service and pass the label in. Works like magic.
Oh shit
I actually thought they are zigbee @slim lagoon @cold moon
That replaces more complex template logic imo
The Apollo ones? Nope Wifi esp32.
Nah the only zigbee ones are fp1 and tuya (not recommended)
Well and off shoots of tuya I think
Maybe there are matter ones but Iām not a fan of that protocol yet
Another one I did was labelled some lights based upon the mode they are supposed to be on or off. So, using the ToD integration, I have 6 modes in the house. As they turn on/off, I just pass the label to the light.turn_on/off services and boom... done.
Much easier than groups imho.
Iām not picturing it
alright. Grabbing it.
The msr 1 on sale?
Aye
I think those can still use the custom pcb for a low profile mount
If so Iād get that
Ok, so I have an early morning mode where I turn on some lights for my dogs. When the binary_sensor for early morning turns on, it turns on those lights by label. Then, I have a morning mode binary_sensor. When that flips on, it turns those lights off.
So smol
Granted this is msr-2
But still feature parity to calling a lightgroup right?
Yeah, but I like just adding/removing a label versus editing the group, tbh. Especially since all my groups are still in YAML lol
Ahh ok
Helper groups it's the same LOE
Iām using zigbee groups mostly but I could label those
what zigbees do you have @slim lagoon ?
Like devices? Or coordinator?
All the zigbees
devices you said 90% lights are wifi so I'm curious of what zigbees you have
Ohhhhh... gotcha... specifics!!! I have about 101(?) devices right now... mostly motion/contact sensors, water leak sensors, switches, plugs, some lights, curtain motors...
Oh, temp/humidity sensors and air quality sensors too.
I kinda went crazy with contact and temp sensors recently. š¤·āāļø
I need to buy window sensors for every window still
Iāve been holding off cuz itās just so low priority
Mailbox is covered tho
whoa whoa whoa whoa
And doors even coat closets
mailbox???!
Plays the old AOL youāve got mail for me on the speakers lol
THAT IS GOLD!!!
Plus it dings my phone
I have a Hue outdoor motion sensor in the back of my mailbox. Works like a charm.
Nice
The only benefit with ours is we get a definite state of open or closed
Plus theyāre like $10-$15 instead of $50
Ugh, the outdoor ones worked horribly for me... plus it wouldn't fit in my mailbox.
Yeah I tried contact sensor first. I don't remember. Got knocked off a couple times I think? Anyway this has been flawless for me.
Mine got knocked off once I had to move it a bit
They donāt have to touch so you can get away with weird angles
It's definitely big! My mailbox is needlessly big lol. Have a zigbee light at the end of the driveway which works great to keep it connected.
Like this lol
lol I solved that with that double sided Gorilla tape... I'm addicted to that stuff.
Huh, the nearest router to my mailbox is something like 45 feet line of sight? Something like that.
I've utilized these weird angles to put contact sensors on the locks of our two sliding glass doors. No option for a smart lock but at least I can tell if I need to go lock them.
The ONE time where Aqara devices hanging on to one route has actually helped me.
Idk. Before I put a light there it had to travel further to the nearest router, but still not THAT far. But for some reason the connection would drop occasionally. I always wondered if the mailbox being metal was interfering.
Well you start getting interference from neighbors Wi-Fi outside too
Also the light looks nice so it all worked out in the end haha
Very true. I understand zigbee a lot better now than I did then lol
Amazingly for that distance (and through a couple of brick walls), the LQI is at 208. I don't know if I want to be impressed or know that Z2M is probably lying to me.
that is interesting
This is interesting. Question not sure if it is considered intergration channel. But MQTT......it's basically for wifi right? not Z2M
Eh, this is the one channel where all the topics seem to merge (aside from #general-archived) But, no MQTT is required for Z2M to work. MQTT is a message broker.
The real reason I'm confused because Appllo sensor is wifi based.....but....where's the app so it can be absorbed into HA
That's hard to follow but so much cleaner than what I get out of z2m. I must be doing something wrong.
I always uncheck IsASibling. Gives a much cleaner map, imho.
Hmm I'll try that next time
Yea otherwise itās line city
Someone should open a feature request to change the defaults to have it unchecked
1 2 3 not it
I'm confused. does MSR-2 have temperature/humidity or just only MSR-1?
you dont really use them for temp/humidity anyways and the offsets of the sensors were too high so they switched to another sensor and lost humidity moving to msr-2
Now I see why. gotcha
That would explain why MSR-1 is on sale probably trying to clear the shelf
ya they mention it
Yup... and also yeah, as @cold moon said... the temp setting is kinda meh (due to the heat of the esp board). Humidity seems to be good though.
I feel like horizontally mounting these looks slightly better than vertical
I recently moved from a ubuntu docker HA install to a Full HA OS install - and while its been great - it broke my custom implimentation of a serial interface I custom made to control my old whole home audio controller
Wondering if anyone can either tell me the right group to post in or how to make a serial baud rate setting permenent first of all
How about this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUU_0oiAvtY
Many people these days love and like to monitor and register evertyhing in there home automation platform. However, somethimes these sensors do not always blend in nicely with the rest of the house. Therefore I came up with a way to have it hidden, and keep it functioning. This way I have the working sensor, and the misses doesn't have those 'wi...
Hi, do you know a staircase lights timer that works with zigbee in Italy? Currently I have something similar https://imgur.com/a/Ytxo81i ORNO CR-230 that doesn't work with zigbee. Thanks.
Hey, I want to put kind of an alarm to my garage door -> so I'd get notified when it's being open. I'd use a simple Zigbee/wifi contact sensor ā but I want to know when the device is not active for some reason: it could be (radio) jammed, cut off power whatev.
Question: is there a device that would reliabily call home (or get ping-ed) like every 10-30 seconds? So that I get an alarm if I don't have answer from the device for longer than 30 seconds? Zigbee or WiFi. Or nothing like that, better to #diy-archived ?
What's a staircase timer?
staircase lights timer
That's not really an explanation
Searching for it makes me think you just need a normal ZigBee switch and an automation to replace the automatic turn off feature
when a button (of multple buttons) is pressed the timer starts the time and turn on the lights, when the timer finishes it turns off the lights
I'd like something like this that I can control with the zigbee protocol
The timer and turning off can be handled by home assistant
ok but I wanted to keep it separated as if something happens to my server I can't turn on the lights
Every one of my smart switches still works when home assistant fails
buttons are normal switches not smart
You can replace one of them with a smart button instead of installing this staircase thing
you mean that I keep all the same and I only change a single button with a smart one so I can turn on lights with ha?
I haven't done it, but that's my understanding of how a smart switch works in multiple switch situations
Ok thanks
can someone help me out connecting shelly 1pm mini to light switch, which controls the light and air mode? German layout.
If I add a sonoff device through the ewelink app it will appear in the devices section of my HA or I need to do something from my side?
Youāll need to reload the integration.
Thanks again!
Are shelly Relays sold in India? If not, are there any alternatives that work locally and integrate well with home assistant? I'm looking for some stuff for dad.
AFAIK, you would need a package forwarder. Or, you could go with Sonoff relays.
Not sure if this is the correct place to post this. I had ESPresense set up and working fine until I bought a new phone (my beacon). When I plug an ESP32 into my computer and go to the ESPresense web termainal to find my phone's ID, the web terminal doesn't detect the ESP32. However, Home Assitant appears to detect it, so I think I can be confident the ESP32 isn't the issue (maybe?). Any ideas?
What are the commonly recommended smart plugs that have energy measurement and switching? Must be available with UK plug
my t-link kp105 smart plug works fine for switching so I was thinking of getting some Tapo P110
kind of a long shot but does anyone know how to install this to wood studs? no drywall yet, new build
Looks like a mill task if you want it to be inside a stud
This may not necessarily be the right one for this mounting job. The ones you screw onto stuff tend to have mounting points where the screws go into
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Switch-Electrical-Outlet-Single/dp/B07L12TF21 - looks like it's not designed for stud mounting?
Which smart switches are a better option for HA.
- Aqara
- Lutron
- Any other ?
I've heard great things about https://inovelli.com/ but I haven't been able to buy them. I have GE switches everywhere (without ANY issues) but 99% of people here would not recommend them.
Ya looks that way. Do you know of a similar one for stud mounting?
Any suggestions for any that are similar standard but that can be stud mount
where are you located?
@forest pike
If in the US, you just need this (1 switch) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-PVC-1-Gang-20-cu-in-New-Work-Electrical-Outlet-Box-B120A-UPC/205319652 or (2 switch) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-2-Gang-32-cu-in-Blue-PVC-New-Work-Electrical-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B232ACP/202065285
The Carlon Zip Box Blue 1-Gang 20 cu. in. Non-Metallic Switch and Outlet Box is designed for use with non-metallic sheathed cable in accordance with Article 314 of the National Electric Code. Great for
I'm in Canada but I need the UK style boxes which are 86 mm by 86 mm
I looked at these ones but these are American standard and the mounting holes are different.
Just look at the canadian home depot site and search for "new work electrical boxes"
I did, I mean I need wall boxes that are uk sized which are not sold here.
So I found the plastic ones and those are available here but I cannot figure out how to mount these to the studs
why do you need the uk sized boxes?
Got it sorry I misread the ask
Np np
Trying to use some devices which fits on UK sized boxes
I don't know what exactly to search for, so please forgive my ignorance. My house came with a Samsung Smarthings V3 hub which apparently can manage Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Matter devices. If I don't at all care about using Samsung's software, should I figure out how to connect a local home assistant up so it can interact with Samsung, or do y'all think it'd be better to just pick up a USB Z-Wave & USB Zigbee dongle?
why?
Why not?
I'm only asking because their power is different enough from US/CA power that you could burn your house down
Sure, let's assume I want to use a box for proper mounting
i THINK I'm going to need something like this instead
Keep in mind that metal ones need to be grounded
Those get used here. Just not as gang boxes.
Cause it doesn't have the nailing connection like the blue ones above right?
Oh no I didn't know that. Even for low voltage?
they're typically in the attic / ceiling / walls
Yes, you don't want something to accidentally short inside them and not trip the breakers
I think you're thinking of junction boxes
Gotcha okay good to know
@forest pike that's the name, yeah. it's also what the photo of the plated box above was
Is this UK sized? It doesn't look like it has the right mounting spots
it's the UK amazon
Sure but where would I mount an 86mm X 86mm device?
The metal picture above is a gang box that's used in UK for new work
interesting. looks nearly identical to our junction boxes. š
Those don't have the correct mounting points unless that are supposed to be installed vertically which doesn't make sense
My coworker is in Berlin, and their in wall electrical fixtures are pretty wild.
Yep for sure. I'm gonna check local junction boxes but I don't think they will fit
probably easiest, since it's low voltage anyway, to just wait until the drywall is up
then someone who wants to remove it later can more easily do so
so what device is worth this trouble?
Sure but my goal is trying to figure out how to mount it to wooden studs... I have the ones that can be installed after drywall already
I feel like you're more focused on dismissing what I want to do rather than any actual help...
you'll have to find an import something from the UK to do what you want
and I feel like you're being really cagey about it, so there ya go
Right all the devices currently sitting beside me
Appreciate the "help"
help with electrical work isn't exactly help with home assistant hardware
i'd say that you'd do better in an electrical work discord, but I know electricians and they'd tell you to do something rude
are you embarassed about what you want to install?
That would be more useful than then conversation to be honest. If the mods have an issue with my question I'm sure they can let me know. If you have a link to an electrical work discord I'd appreciate that. There's nothing to be embarrassed of, I just mean I think what I install doesn't really matter. My main question was if there was a way to mount that boxes to wooden studs
Again I appreciate the "help"but you're killing the SNR
well, then go do something rude.
i'm actually pretty surprised at how difficult it is to get google to cough up an answer about this
Are there any zwave/thread/zigbee network hubs that are local area only?
If anyone else has any suggestions, open to hearing them. Someone else mentioned the circle on the back top left, maybe I can put some blocking behind it and just pop a nail through the plastic
You mean as an all in one? Thatās what HA is.
@slim lagoon so, your suggestion is to add zigbee, zwave, and thread transceivers to my HA host.
I'm personally against having extra layers to be honest. That just adds more points of possible failure. If you have the cash for it I'd recommend just getting the dongles. That's what I did
alright.
As to your question about that grey plastic box. I assume from the conversation I caught, you're putting LV stuff inside the box, not mains voltage?
It looks kind of like the corners of the bottom expect someone to run screws through the plastic box, but I'm not certain.
100% yes.
I was kind of hoping there was a device for those three standards that worked somewhat like the Lutron Casetta hub.
House also came with a bunch of Casetta stuff, which I admit works pretty fantastic, both with the Lutron app, and via HA.
I usually just buy the dongle when I have to buy the first device of that type.
i therefore don't have a thread specific one yet, though I think the Apple TV would handle that until I got a dongle if it came down to that
Thatās what HA is though. Itās a hub (of sorts) for various protocols. You could go with something like a Hubitat hub and bring that in through a custom integration, butā¦
having tried the nortek (?) combo stick, I'd recommend separate sticks for zwave and zigbee
Yeah, I'm running HA on Proxmox. Passing a bunch of USB devices into the VM is trivial.
Ya it will all be low voltage stuff. In UK, it looks like they use the metal ones on new work and either mount them directly to the studs or put a telescopic mount behind them. Looks like that might be my only option. I was really hoping to use plastic though
@forest pike Gotcha. Yeah, I think we have a bunch of junction boxes mounted on adapters in our attic.
I'm no in the UK though.
I actually prefer plastic boxes most of the time.
my searching leads me to believe that they no longer build new in the UK at all
but it could just be google localizing me against my will
Plastic boxes for sockets, switches and other UK electrical items, surface and flush styles.
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A look at various sizes of metal backbox, which are used for flush mounting UK sockets, switches and other accessories into the wall.
Usual depths: 16mm, 25mm, 35mm, 47mm.
Screw thread size M3.5 x 0.6
Older screw size 1960s and earlier 4BA
Knockout holes typically 20mm diameter, some may be 25 on deeper boxes.
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This is the electrician in the UK that I was referencing. I sent him a message earlier, maybe he has some tips.
hm, he calls your box a "surface mount" one
so you could use that. just fabricate an L shaped bracket that connects to the stud on the side and has a plate behind the box for it to surface mount to
it could probably be wood if you aren't tooled for metal or plastic fabrication
doesn't even have to be an L if you can have it bridge between two studs
Ya I was thinking I'll try putting blocking behind it and mount it to that rather than the vertical stud. I just don't know if there is a product like this but UK standard
It's rather uncommon to work with large empty gap walls in the European space
Like they tend to be mostly flush to the actual wall
If you don't mind the mess, spray foam can be enough for the back fixing
I thought about that but only the exterior walls are spray foamed.
Interesting!
Putting something solid in there is always the better long term solution, just be an idea for a quick and dirty fix that might work
Right on. Okay so I have a couple of options then. I'll go to the site tomorrow and try them out while I wait for the metal ones to arrive
INTERNATIONAL "RETROFIT" (OLD WORK) WALL BOX 60mm (60.3) mounting centers.
Oh I found this very interesting site as well, maybe someone might need it in the future. Good reference point
looks like the old work box is designed to be screwed into something behind it too, rather than something to the side of it
Old work usually have tabs that when screwed tighten to the back of the drywall/sheetrock/plaster
oh yeah, old work. no drywall up = new work
Alright, so I want to revisit a topic started in integrations early last weekā ceiling fan control. I ended up returning the bond bridge today, I tried each of the different work arounds we had discussed here and I still couldnāt get it working reliably. When I started thinking about buying more sensors (more than the motion sensor I already had) Iād be at over $220 investedā for something I couldnāt ensure would work 100% of the time. Dumb.
So Iām back for recommendations. I have 4 ceiling fans that all receive power via a dumb on/off wall switch but are actually controlled via an RF remote. 3 of the fans have integrated LED lights also controlled exclusively by the remote. 1 fan is rotation only. Each fan has a unique remote. I know that in-canopy modules existā but I donāt have a good sense of what to actually buy or how they work (eg, do they actually report real states back to HA? Do the remotes still work? If the remotes are used will that update the state in HA?)
Iād prefer solutions that are Z-wave if possible as itās my strongest āsmartā network (followed by WifI, I have a zigbee antenna available but I donāt have any devices on it).
Essentially unlimited budget, US based.
(Link to original discussion #integrations-archived message )
Hi how can I integrate a IR controller with localtuya?
I am looking for a humidity sensor, and air quality meter. I was thinking about the Aqara Humidity Sensor, and air gradient or airthings for air quality, are there better options?
The Apollo AIR-1 one probably
any idea how accurate the tvoc readings are?
You can look those kinds things up on the sensor datasheets
Sonoff iFan04. They are zigbee based though. Thereās also the Innovelli fan and light controller as well: https://a.co/d/9cv3IRI (but finding those might be difficult). Personally, I just replaced all my fans with DC Tuya (š) based ones for about $120/each.
Do all of those report status accurately?
Yup.
Sweet! Is tuya basically the only one that does dc?
No, most modern fans are all DC, but I wanted to just be done and not spend a ton of time with flashing the Sonoff and such (I got lazy lol)
Iāve just been seeing āac onlyā on the inovelli and Lutron caseta
BUT, pay attention to reviews⦠some of the Tuya fans beep when receiving a command (and you canāt turn it off
) and toggle the light temp through a single command.
Yeah. They are AC fans with DC brushless motors.
What size fans are you looking for?
I have the fans already but they are all around 54 inch.
Ahhhhh gotcha. Iād just go with the Sonoff ones.
Alright. Iāll look into that! I looked for a WHILE last night and it seemed like there is a ton of confusion on this topic for whatever reason. Lots of people ending up where i had (using bond and frustrated beyond belief).
Thanks code, may have more questions later but this is helpful.
Yup. Agreed. This is why I went with the Tuya fans (even though I HATE Tuya).
Iāve added tuya to my list of 4 letter words thanks to this channel
lol yeah... I make sure that any Tuya devices I buy work both with localTuya and also the way I need them to. amazon and I are really good when it comes to returns (which is a pain in the ASS when it comes to ceiling fans).
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $5.92 | Tuya ZigBee Signal Repeater Signal Amplifier USB Extender for Smart Life Tuya APP Works with ZigBee Gateway Smart Home Devices
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m092gui
has anyone tried these before?
thinking about getting this + some ikea smart plugs to act as network repeaters
Cough cough
The signal repeaters arenāt THAT bad, but they have issues with some Aqara sensors.
the one from IKEA is $20 and works as a usb power outlet
yeah these are 1/4 the price lol
I think they discontinued them though.
what sort of issues?
if i had a mix of these and ikea outlets would it be fine
Sometimes you get what you pay for ā¢ļø
oh. i searched and it came up, but I guess that one was in AU
Aqara sensors are notoriously picky when it comes to routers.
people import them from Ali and mark them up to sell on Amazon to people who don't want to wait 4 weeks
tbh i donāt have any aqara rn anyways
yeah lol
when i told my dad that he was amazed
i still would choose "add aqara" over "add tuya"
oh
why not just get a smart plug to control an appliance in that room
