hardware-archived

[brittle breach]

If I get a router that supports VLANs, can I then connect my existing mesh network to one port and another mesh network to another port...and allow the devices on the two mesh networks to talk to each other?

Or would they not be able to communicate with each other?

Sorry. I'm a networking noob.

[golden thorn]

That's one of the ways I said you can simulate that. Both ports can have different adresses for example and you can route however you want. Not as flexible of course and you have different networks,

With a proper AP you can give each SSID a different tag and can still roam.

[brittle breach]

Once you have a vlans, how do you control what devices from VLAN 1 can talk to VLAN2?

Based on their MAC addresses?

[golden thorn]

You can make rules based on ip/network in the router.

[brittle breach]

If I use IP then each device need a static IP not DHCP IP right

[golden thorn]

You can make DHCP reservations but this is getting too off-topic.

[brittle breach]

Instead of VLAN, I can use router and an AP on each port...

And then I can still make the same rules for what devices can talk to what on each AP?

[golden thorn]

Yes but then you can't roam between the APs or mesh. You might also run into channel conflicts.

[brittle breach]

I just want to make sure of the possibility before I buy networking equipment.

Oh I got it.

So I really need VLAN yes?

[golden thorn]

How about this. Build yourself the router first and test. If it doesn't work how you want you can still buy the AP and switch.

[brittle breach]

@Impact Currently I have a mesh network (a main and then two satellites). That's the only way that I can have wireless connectivity throughout the house and an external garage.

Just having a router won't allow me to have coverage everywhere. I don't want to run any ethernet cables throughout the house.

You Omada APs need hardwires between them to create a mesh?

[golden thorn]

The router I'm suggesting will only route. No wireless. Just a PC with some ethernet ports.
They can also mesh. Haven't tried though.

[brittle breach]

I guess if I realy want to run ethernet everywhere...I can do it from the ceiling... And then connect the Omada's. But that's more work than I want to deal with. 😦

What's the risk of not having VLANs...and just have all my PCs, TV, etc. and iOT devices on the same network?

[golden thorn]

Depends. Lots of people do this.

[brittle breach]

You mean without setting up VLANs?

I guess I just have to make sure I buy secure IOT devices?

[lofty nacelle]

Hi there!
Does anybody know of a WiFi-based 16A smart switch available in India that can be installed behind an existing dumb switch and works locally or through cloud with home assistant (preferably without HACS)?

[hidden mason]

probably something tasmota based with a relay

[karmic lodge]

Take a look at shelly's stuff (shelly.cloud) - they have some tiny units which can be fitted inside a switch wall box. There's an integration for their stock firmware, or if you're feeling more adventurous you can reflash them with ESPHome

16A is... quite a lot of current though

Shelly Plus 1PM is what I've usually used to "make a dumb switch smart". It does depend on your having a neutral wire in place though, which often isn't the case for light switches (not sure what the wiring standards are in India). There are versions (if I recall correctly) which don't need a neutral (they power themselves by leaking a small amount of current through your device), but honestly I've never trusted these enough to use them.

[drifting grove]

Hi anyone can help me ?

[short portal]

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a wireless video doorbell, with good, local, homeassistant integration?

[karmic lodge]

i have a unifi doorbell from ubiquiti, which is at least local (well, it uses a central control), but the video encap it uses isn't directly usable with HA; the RTSP encapsulation it exposes has about a 15-second delay.

[slim lagoon]

Reolink Wireless doorbell. I have one. Fantastic device, imho.

[short portal]

I heard this recommended

but couldn't find a wireless one on amazon UK, got a link?

[short portal]

Even their website here only lists the wired one?

[drifting jetty]

I have the Wifi Reolink doorbell too, I love it.

Finally replaced my Nest Hello that I had over 3 years. The Reolink is a breath of fresh air.

[glacial oracle]

Have you installed the chipset drivers

[short portal]

It needs wired power though right? There's no battery version?

[drifting jetty]

Yes it does. I'm using the existing doorbell wiring to power mines.

[short portal]

damn that's a shame

I can't realistically wire one in here I don't think

[lofty nacelle]

I was hoping to get something that is easily available and serviceable here instead of importing.

[karmic lodge]

I have no experience with the local Indian market, I'm afraid. Amazon.in do seem to have a few Shelly products available.

[lofty nacelle]

price for imported prices are crazy high there

[karmic lodge]

Next idea would be to build something based on esphome

or tasmota

but both will have a significantly higher learning curve

[lofty nacelle]

I am not much of a DIYer... was hoping for an existing product but oh well

[karmic lodge]

I assume something is available locally, but I don't know what it might be.

[lofty nacelle]

Thanks for the help!

[short portal]

I feel like a wireless, battery powered, video doorbell with good HA support might just not exist

Currently have a nest wireless doorbell working, but to get it working I had to build a house of cards and do some really silly automations

Looks like Reolink is doing one in Q2 this year though!

@slim lagoon Do you have some method of using 2 way audio via home assistant, or do you just switch to the reolink app for that?

[tepid oracle]

I need help choosing something that can act as an alarm clock and also a speaker to play ambient noise to help me sleep
just an ordinary speaker won't do though, needs to have buttons to snooze dismiss. probably touch screen so I can configure

i thought maybe about getting a Google nest hub but the ratings seem to be a bit mixed
other options I thought was getting a tablet but with that I'm concerned about the speakers. I'll have it on my dresser in my bedroom, so it will need to be loud enough and not sound too cheap
any recommendations? I would like to keep under,$150

[thin spear]

Hello everyone, today my futro s740 arrived and it has only 8gb ssd instead of 32gb (got a partial refund).
Now I was wondering if this is enough?
Or which variant is better?:
Install ha on that 8gb m2 ssd and use a second ssd with usb 3.0 cable (no Extertal power necessary, currently running HA on my pi with it)

Or buy 128m2 sata ssd with dram cashe for 28€?

Currently my ssd in usb 3 case has 256gb

M2 ssd with 128gb apparently gets hot and my Fujitsu has no cooling Fans. I also thought about sata m2 adapter but they are so expensive that I can buy m2 ssd instead (I don't order chinese vendors like temu ali etc so that's not an option for me)

[golden thorn]

Not for HAOS. Isn't that SSD almost as expensive as the whole machine?

[thin spear]

No machine average 60,70€

[thin spear]

But nonetheless expensive investment when setting in relation

Also thought about adapter so I can use nvme ssd from my Laptop

[glacial oracle]

it getting hot should be no issue if it stays within its rated limits

alternatively, add a fan

[slim lagoon]

I just use the Reolink app for it. I know there is supposed to be a way to do it in HA, but I haven’t set it up yet.

[golden thorn]

Personally I'd send it back and buy something you can put a PCIe M.2 in. My second choice would be the mSATA SSD. I would not recommend using the 8G. There's no point.

[thin spear]

Do you have cheap recommendation with very low Power draw and Silent (=no fan)

[karmic lodge]

https://www.gmktec.com/products/nucbox-3-mini-pc-windows-11-home-os

[golden thorn]

Aliexpress has fan less Mini PCs but you're against them so not really. Buying them on amazon is probably not cost effective. (U)SFFs like what you have are fine too, I'd just pick something more recent. mSATA has limited options and is slower and more expensive. I don't have any specific model to recommend. I simply check on eBay for stuff in my price range when I need something. I don't think it's useful to go for specific models in most cases. Don't get me wrong what you have is okay for HA but if you can get something better why not.

[thin spear]

I am a poor Student that's why I got the futro for 45€ ^^

Now I am annoyed to pay extra for ssd and most importantly to wait for it

[golden thorn]

mSATA just pains me because pretty much nothing else uses it. If you buy another more modern device later you can't really use it with it for example.

[thin spear]

I Plan to use the futro until it dies. Would be huge improvement over my pi 4 with 2gb ram. Only using it for HA and all the fancy stuff in it

[golden thorn]

In that case go for it. If you have enough RAM you could even virtualize HAOS.

[past knoll]

Not even close to 1.8A apparently.

[thin spear]

I thought about it because actually ha is overencombured and offload some stuff would be good

[golden thorn]

There's a few benefits: #hardware-archived message

[thin spear]

Is it too much negative impact when I use it like that and no m2 ssd at all? Would that be noticeable in ha. Or virtualization setup?

[golden thorn]

Like what. With a USB SSD?

[thin spear]

Black pi is HA and ha is on ssd which is the Black thing behind

[thin spear]

Yes usb ssd

Usb 3.0

[golden thorn]

You're bandwidth limited, of course, but it's fine, I guess. I'm not sure how much it affects 4K.

[thin spear]

Why would I need 4k with home assistant?

I have no Media Server and stuff like that

On ha I have some sound and I use motioneye with not so high resolution camera

[golden thorn]

Sorry I'm too vague. What I meant is IOPS and small file transfers. Latency is probably higher and the IOPS lower. 4K is a common metric for SSD benchmarks.

[golden thorn]

I might test this a bit tomorrow when I have some spare time.

[thin spear]

I mean I don't need the best stuff. I just want reliable to work for what I have. Motioneye is very ressource heavy for my little pi and I have feeling stuff is slow. But I suspect ram limitation for it, my pi has 2gb

That's a bit the context from my perspective regarding my home assistant journey 🙂
I hope for improvement with piper and voice assistant but I think I might need gpu to have noticeable improvement. I am still learning everything and love it 🙂

[thin spear]

That would be so awesome! ❤️ I would really appreciate it

[golden thorn]

I'll let you know. Gotta go for now.

[glacial oracle]

does any of you guys use one of those larger ecoflow batteries to change and discharge to the grid? does this work like that or is it more complicated? and more importantly can it be controlled from within ha

[past knoll]

I have a zigbee dimmer that is not passing through the full current in 2 wire mode, but is in 3 current mode. Is this expected behaviour please?

[fresh crest]

Hey team, can someone explain is there a way to reduce the cooldown on the detected sensor for a Tuya Powered ZigBee PIR Motion Sensor - it triggers almost instantly when I move through it but takes a full min to reset back to undetected.

[golden thorn]

Here. I hope it helps: https://imgur.com/a/UUYSmCE

[tepid drift]

Please recommend a doorbell that fits this criteria:

• Can have >=2 remote chimes (noisemakers)

• WiFi or Zwave

• Easy installation (battery or uses the existing doorbell power)

• Video is optional but would be nice. Intercom would also be fine.

• Of course HA integration would be nice but I see lots of drama around HA+doorbells so will accept non-HA

Reolink looked good until I noticed they don't sell additional remote chimes so I assume they don't support more than the one. If they did support more than one then I guess I'd need to buy two kits?

Doorbird is an interesting option and I don't mind the price but its too much complexity for what we need.

[slim lagoon]

That’s a #zigbee-archived question, but no. Most Tuya PIR sensors don’t have a configurable cooldown.

[slim lagoon]

I have a Reolink WiFi doorbell. Yes, very odd they don’t sell more chimes, but I use HA and HomeKit to get around that as the performance on the doorbell is really good.

[thin spear]

Hi mate! Thank you very much!! Seems that buying an m2 sata ssd Was the right call 🙂

Thank you for your effort! Very much appreciated!

[short portal]

Can anyone recommend an extremely simple battery powered motion sensor?

Ideally entirely local

[slim lagoon]

Define “extremely simple”?

[short portal]

I just want a single entity in HA I can query

I may well be asking the wrong questions :) still very new to HA

[slim lagoon]

That’s any motion sensor. They all define a binary_sensor for detection.

[short portal]

Yeah, I guess I just meant that it doesn't need any additional functions

[slim lagoon]

Ah, any PIR motion would work then. Zigbee, zwave, WiFi, they all work pretty much the same way. The difference is cost and what networks you have.

[short portal]

Are they all generally quite performant?

[slim lagoon]

No. Cheaper ones like Tuya usually suck, have long timeouts/cooldowns, and are generally problematic. Slightly more expensive ones (Sonoff, Aqara, etc) are better. Then, you have expensive ones like Hue that are REALLY good.

[short portal]

I assume the hue one needs the cloud though right?

[slim lagoon]

Nope. If you have Zigbee setup, it’s completely local.

[short portal]

oh cool ok

[slim lagoon]

In my house, I primarily use Aqara P1s and Hue. My Hue ones are my faves. Long battery life, quick cooldowns and they aren’t bad looking.

[short portal]

Do you have hue lights working locally with zigbee too?

[slim lagoon]

The P1s are also good, but Aqara has some quirks that need to be taken into account. Tuya and Sonoff I would avoid unless you want headaches. The Sonoff ones are marginally better than the Tuya ones though. Some people have really good results with them and some don’t.

Yup. I have 5 or 6 hue lights on my mesh.

[short portal]

Do you lose much managing them locally vs with a hue bridge/app?

[slim lagoon]

Nope. The only thing you lose are things like the labs and the dynamic scenes (candlelight, etc).

But none of my Hue lights supported that anyway. lol

[short portal]

This is really dumb, but we got hue festavia lights last christmas, and we have them around an upstairs balcony. They're super nice and I'd sort of hate to lose the dynamic scenes on those. Everything else I don't use scenes on anyway

[slim lagoon]

You might be able to recreate that with some scripts in HA. But yeah, that would kinda suck. Typically, unless I can get 100% control with HA, I don’t buy it. Except for very, very rare occasions (like my rice cooker).

[short portal]

yeah that's where I'd love to end up too

[slim lagoon]

Just takes time. 😊 took me a LONG time to get my house where I want it. lol

[short portal]

must be so satisfying once youre there though

[slim lagoon]

Hahaha what makes you think that I’m “there”? I still have tons of projects I want to do still.

[short portal]

ok fair, probably none of us are ever finished

[slim lagoon]

EXACTLY

[short portal]

I've got plans for most things... Reolink battery doorbell to replace nest doorbell being the next one...

but I have no idea how I'm going to get my air con controls local, they're some crappy chinese brand with tuya support that the air con company installed

And then there's a ring intercom that opens my apartment lobby door, I think it's the only product of its type that exists, so I'm SOL on that too

[vague tartan]

Any suggestions for a simple pre made IR blaster and reciever (learn and blast). Just going to use it to control an IR fan, and sensibo doesnt support it

[slim lagoon]

BroadLink RM4 mini or pro would be my go to. Cheap, easy to configure and local only.

[vague tartan]

wow just 8usd on aliexpress, thats not bad

[buoyant osprey]

https://www.amazon.ca/Beelink-i5-1235U-Computer-Supports-Extended/dp/B0BK3DY6D2?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

Debatting getting this to take HA out of my proxmox host to a dedicated machine.
(I added a 3090 thursday for my ML VM and since then my usb 2.0 ports are no longer working, meaning HA does not have zigbee control anymore.)
(I want to avoid a repeat by giving HA/Frigate a dedicated machine)

Is it overkill for four 2/4k streams through frigate with a Coral TPU?
HA has about 100 automations, Node-red and maybe 20 intiegrations and 15 addons running
I went tiwh the i7 for the quicksync or the 8 streams ( 4 main, 4 subs ) since i need to restranscode to rotate 6 of those streams.

[golden thorn]

Sounds like your IOMMU groups are messed up. Better fix that instead.

[buoyant osprey]

I have no idea how 😦 I've been on google since thursday night

I am at the point of backing up everything and reinstalleing proxmox

2tb ofbackups being done atm

I tried passing a PCI device ( 00:00:00:00 ) to a VM and since then my USB 2 ports are kaput

I since removed the passio passthrough with no luck

[golden thorn]

Did you cold boot the node?

[buoyant osprey]

Cold boot the node?

I rebooted the entire host if that's the question. Many times

[golden thorn]

I can give you some commmands to trouble shoot later when I'm at a PC again.

[buoyant osprey]

That would be dope!

Higly appreciated

[swift beacon]

Hey y'all, I've got a Shelly Uni I use to monitor voltage of a battery. I have a second battery I wanted to monitor so I purchased a Shelly Uni Plus to do so. I've got it added to Home Assistant but it doesnt look like it has an ADC voltage sensor. Surely the upgraded version of the device doesn't have less features, right? Does anyone use the Plus for this same use case and have any insight?

[swift beacon]

Nevermind, I got it figured out rather quickly. Whereas in the Uni the ADC Volt sensor comes enabled by default, in the plus one has to create a new "Peripheral" in the management interface of the device itself. Then that can be passed to HA.

[golden thorn]

Proxmox passthrougb debugging

[signal fog]

Hello! I'm trying to automate a Lutron Grafik Eye system, which uses 40khz moduled IR for control. Would a Bond Bridge be capable of that? I can't find anything good online about it

Broakdlink does not work, as it only operates at 38Khz IR

I'm also looking at Harmony Hub

[sudden moss]

Hello, anyone can recommend me some link of Amazon to buy some of this to test: sensor motion, sensor temperature, sensor of humidity and sensor of carbon monoxide!

[cold moon]

usa?

wifi/zigbee/zwave?

price?

favorite color?

https://shop.apolloautomation.cloud/products/air-1?variant=47743956091187 this is great for an air sensor does CO and CO2 with an upgrade

[sudden moss]

I prefer Amazon US, and always WiFi!

[cold moon]

always wifi?

[sudden moss]

I will start testing with WiFi first, never work with Zigbee or Zwave actually. Sorry that I mean with 'always WiFi' (that I prefer this rn haha).

[cold moon]

motion temp humidity are all bad for wifi man

[sudden moss]

Oh, so will be better Zigbee or Zwave?

[cold moon]

for motion, temp/humidity (these two are together often) you want zigbee

zwave some devices are okay for motion or temp/humidity but imo zigbee has the best devices for them

like aqara (new gen) or hue

[sudden moss]

I will take the risk buying a zigbee and configure it. To handle this zigbee device will need something more?

[cold moon]

you need a zigbee coordinator

what do you run home assistant on? just a pi or server or?

[sudden moss]

I will run HA here... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5XCH2WS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

[sudden moss]

Is this right?: https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-temperatura-automatización-termómetro-inalámbrico/dp/B07D37FKGY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_es_US=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=G531CK0MY0EM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.pWKCykGsM-lmq8Wk1NvXPoRSANOb8n9VreP8ONCGmnw5fUXgMOLQaoD_soSHoGTP5lfGxhE_Sk34slYk82xUM5L1Rb5EQB3yaWZ4MCJY6pUru5eSveTHy4aY29U9vuIKynspFUwl6ImvG8v-xWrngbXIQGvAWzLCCOsjOhKek2OxUiT-9eKxtwqDSNCQoNXIBAs2NGo9bDTOMOQGq1hmLgX9cs3XGksVtA-ABV0jVSsdYfLPPWv1StRAoAvSE4w5fYq5OGTbCiNuXSefH6R2MjtvyVq4BYB9gbjK12oo_w0.suDKIB4u_siDLc9xYOa7-zOyskOVeykHm9YqP5n3PXc&dib_tag=se&keywords=aqara+temp+humidity&qid=1715551465&sprefix=aqara+temp+humidi%2Caps%2C374&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

[cold moon]

yes those are okay

[sudden moss]

I'm doing all the buys on Amazon because I have GCs without use. My order will arrive at 25/04, so I prefer to buy all things to test.

[cold moon]

btw can you share link like https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-temperatura-automatización-termómetro-inalámbrico/dp/B07D37FKGY (nothing on the end no tracking)?

see where i copy/pasted? no /ref=sr_1_1 blah blah

[sudden moss]

I already buy some lights and other stuff... now it's 'sensors' time haha!

Treatlife for 'sensor of human presence', Aqara for 'humidity / temp sensor'

[slim lagoon]

I would avoid the Treatlife ones. They are just rebranded Tuya.

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-Configurable-Detection-Automations-Compatible/dp/B09QKVMMTB for motion P1

tuya bad treatlife bad

or

[sudden moss]

Just sensor of carbon monoxide

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-570977-Motion-Sensor/dp/B09KNQ5KTB/ hue motion

pick one^ they will both also give you temperature

[cold moon]

no idea

[sudden moss]

You think Hue it's the better?

It's zigbee this too?

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Detector-Carbon-Monoxide-Generation/dp/B08FFB233Y for this zwave is good

[slim lagoon]

Hue PIR motion sensors are awesome (and yes, they’re zigbee)

[sudden moss]

To handle zigbee devices... I imagine need to buy a zigbee controller?

[slim lagoon]

Yup

[sudden moss]

Can you recommend me any that works well?

So my experience-user will be better from beginning 🙂

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Signal-Sensor-Required-Separately/dp/B0C7HVF4SJ

[slim lagoon]

The ones @cold moon posted are all good.

[cold moon]

this is best for smoke alarms if you have wired interconnect^

https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor

read more here^

[sudden moss]

If I buy something like that, will need to buy a zwave controller too?

No problem, but just to know 😉

[cold moon]

yep

[sudden moss]

Do you have links for zigbee / zwave controllers?

[cold moon]

basically you sometimes need to buy products based on what they do

[sudden moss]

I agree

[cold moon]

and work around what protocol they use

[cold moon]

which home assistant install do you have?

[sudden moss]

That's why I prefer to buy the best, and just adapt my hardware / controllers to the specific devices!

[cold moon]

docker container in a server? pi?

toaster?

[sudden moss]

I don't receive nothing yet

I buy this...

[cold moon]

you bought no home assistant hardware?

[sudden moss]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5XCH2WS

[cold moon]

❤️

great

n95 not n100 tho?

[sudden moss]

Sorry about link, I don't see that ref thing!

[cold moon]

i was just asking for short link no tracking, it looks fine thx for removing

[sudden moss]

I just re-buy because I use pfSense on one like this. Are awesome 😛

[cold moon]

n100 are great newer gen

better igpu i think

anyways ok so

[sudden moss]

It's ok?

Thanks god!

[cold moon]

with zigbee you need coordinator and zwave controller

is your home assistant install (beelink) centrally located in the house?

if yes, you can use usb devices for this. if not, maybe network devices will be better

[sudden moss]

I prefer network!

[cold moon]

ok great me too

it's expensive and no amazon tho

[sudden moss]

Fuck, really, no Amazon?

[cold moon]

https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p7-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/ i use this

https://tubeszb.com/product/z-wave-poe-kit/ he makes this too but you buy the zwave part separate

so you can buy that part from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Module-ZAC93-Assistant-Raspberry/dp/B0BW4SRCXL

so you need all three links^ for zigbee+zwave networked with both being PoE (put them wherever centrally located in house)

@marsh lichen is the current recommendation to actually use efr32 with z2m now or still cc2652p7? i'm conflicted

[sudden moss]

It's any chance to sell this via Amazon? @marsh lichen

[cold moon]

i think there's too much risk from returns

and just amazon cucking him

[marsh lichen]

No Amazon… I’d not survive.

[sudden moss]

Can I pay you with Amazon GCs?

[cold moon]

lol

[marsh lichen]

For z2m still recommend cc2652.

[sudden moss]

Or any other way?

I'm not from US...

[marsh lichen]

I take PayPal

[sudden moss]

Will send you a DM tomorrow, so we can see how we do the deal!

@marsh lichen

Hey bro... thanks for your help! @cold moon

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/spZn.gif

[sudden moss]

Yep!

[cold moon]

hahaha

[sudden moss]

🔥

[cold moon]

ya man

so i will say

you are gonna need some repeater devices for zigbee mesh

same with zwave but you can do zwave long range which is beta but can go very far (a mile or more in perfect conditions)

so dont put the sensors too far away from your zigbee coordinator

or add some mains powered devices

they will automatically become "repeaters" and route devices for you (like battery powered devices)

light bulbs, light switches, smart plugs are all common zigbee or wave repeaters except some exceptions

[tepid drift]

Reolink seems viable for me. You can buy additional kits and just use the chimes. Some people have had luck buying 3rd party chimes. I have two chimes paired now!

[tepid oracle]

Any LED bulb recommendations that are 1500 lumen with adjustable temperature and brightness? I wanna get it to change temperature as the day progresses

[brittle breach]

I bought a couple of smart wifi bulbs from a big box store. I'm using it in a lamp. I've basically come to the realization that smart bulbs are not ideal for a device that you would want to manually turn on/off. If I have it programmed on a schedule or reacting to some sensor, then trying to control it manually basically means either 'enabling' the program or 'disabling' the program. Because it's useless to manually turn on/off because it will conflict with what you are trying to do with your automation.

Smart bulbs are ideal in situations where the bulb is always powered on...and you use automation to turn it on/off.

Am I missing something regarding smart bulbs?

[cyan lichen]

any chance you could get by with a pair of bulbs instead of a single bulb? all the decent bulbs with tunable whites that i know of top out around 1100 lumen.

[brittle breach]

Like a smart bulb would be perfect for a porch light that is always has power going to it... and then we would use automation to turn it on/off based on sunrise, sunset, etc.

@here Anybody have an idea when SkyConnect will support Thread?

[tepid oracle]

i dont think so. ive just got 4 1000 lumen bulbs for a room and its kinda dim since its a pretty large room

ive tried looking for 1500 but it seems like most smart bulbs are 1000

[cyan lichen]

i guess you're stuck with some specific light fixtures or lamps, you can't change them out or add more?

[tepid oracle]

its overhead ceiling fan with 4 sockets

[cyan lichen]

your best solution might be to supplement the overhead light with table or floor lamps :/

(or to look into some alternate ideas, like adding some led strips instead of bulbs - strips can get a lot brighter than something in the bulb form factor)

[cyan lichen]

skyconnect already supports thread; you need to flash different firmware onto it. https://skyconnect.home-assistant.io/procedures/enable-thread/

note that although there is a multiprotocol firmware for skyconnect that can do zigbee and thread simultaneously, it's not recommended. if you've got more questions, ask in #thread-archived

[brittle breach]

@cyan lichen Thanks. Didn't see that channel...

[cyan lichen]

@brittle breach and yeah, wouldn't recommend smart bulbs in a lamp which you want to control manually via a built-in switch that disconnects power to the bulb. If you're ok with leaving the lamp permanently "on" and using a remote - which you could leave nearby or even attach to the lamp - to control the bulb, then it's easier to integrate with other stuff.

[brittle breach]

@cyan lichen Oh...ok...a remote would be an interesting workaround.

[slim lagoon]

#bluetooth-archived can probably help better.

[winter hearth]

Ohh i didn't see. Thank you and sorry :)

[slim lagoon]

No worries! 🙂

[neat cloud]

Can anyone advise how to install HA on Raspikey please? I can write the image file to it and vaidate it but it won't boot from it and launch into HA. Thanks. https://thepihut.com/products/raspikey-plug-and-play-emmc-module-for-raspberry-pi

[golden thorn]

What does it display during boot? Which pi do you have? How and what did you flash?

[slate plover]

hello everyone. Is there any online store options to buy some hardware sensors ?
What devices are suggested to get started for basic controls ? Like lights , music ?

[slim lagoon]

That's a very open ended question. We'd need some more details on what you have already (if anything) and what protocols you have available to you (WiFi, Zigbee, Z-Wave, RF, etc).

[slate plover]

i have hardware running HAOS connected with ethernet on the local LAN and can see other devices on the same LAN.
so now i'm thinking going to light controls for start. So for this i guess i need usb hardware for zigbee and z-wave ? (This is where i am)
maybe i can use some motion sensors as well to automate the lights , for example switch on / off according motion sensor.

[slim lagoon]

Personally, I'd go with Zigbee (and you can get more details from the pins in the #zigbee-archived channel). But, for starting off, you'll want some smart bulbs (or maybe smart switches if you don't care about doing colors and such). Motion sensors are awesome (along with presence sensors, but those are more advanced to start off with). Aqara and Hue both make really good motion sensors (imho).

[slate plover]

thank you my friend. Do you ever retrofit a house with smart switch for lights ? in my country there is no neutral on the light circuits, so there is no proper source of power. is there a workaround for this ?

[native pilot]

There are smart switches that don't require neutrals

From lutron and leviton (probably others too that I'm unaware of)

[slim lagoon]

Yeah, I have neutrals in some gangboxes and some don't have neutrals at all. There are solutions for this. 🙂

[slim lagoon]

Aqara, Shelly, Sonoff, etc all have neutral/non-neutral switches/relays.

[slate plover]

good. thanks for the tips. i have some work to do 🙂

[slim lagoon]

Anytime! Good luck AND... don't buy anything without asking questions. Chances are that someone here has used whatever devices you are looking it and can offer advice.

[slate plover]

yes, i'm sure about that,.. that's why i'm asking.

[slim lagoon]

lol duh... yeah, that was a redundant statement on my part, wasn't it?

[slate plover]

always welcome.
Does anyone here working as a main job to integrate home system automation with HA ?

[cyan lichen]

Note that no-neutral switches usually work in a similar way to a dimmer - they turn "off" by dimming to below the point where the bulb produces light. Make sure to only use them to control things that are safe to run off a dimmer.

[slim lagoon]

Although, the Aqara no-neutral switches are actually true relays.

[slim lagoon]

I'm sure there are. I don't know of any though.

[winged knoll]

And none I know are ones I'd recommend

[cold moon]

that's the dream. i met a guy who builds custom homes and wanted to partner with him but turns out those guys want to keep all the profits to themselves haha

[native pilot]

There's nothing in the software agreement preventing that?

[slim lagoon]

Not really... you can't legally sell or rebrand HA, but you can sell services "around" it.

[native pilot]

ah got it, that's interesting.

It does seem like there is a market for it, somewhere between the amazon/googles and cresteon solutions for non-technical people.

[gloomy spoke]

I don't think that's true

[native pilot]

which part

[gloomy spoke]

either part

the "can't legally sell or rebrand HA" part

you can obviously sell anything that interacts with it

[slim lagoon]

I thought the Apache 2.0 license prevents reselling of it.

[gloomy spoke]

it comes up from time to time here

[native pilot]

right but you can't sell HA itself I think is what he's saying

[slim lagoon]

IANAL though

[native pilot]

service contracts + hardware fine

[gloomy spoke]

what does it mean to "sell HA"?

provide it on a device?

[slim lagoon]

In my mind, if I buy a rPi3, install HA on it... that's "selling HA". Is it not?

[native pilot]

I would say no

Charging a license fee for the software that is free-- that's no good

[gloomy spoke]

even if you buy a Pi with HA pre-installed, no problem with that

[cyan lichen]

most open source licenses, including apache 2.0, are designed explicitly to allow selling the software; they just place restrictions on the format which it can be distributed in, and the rights given to the people who receive the software.

[slim lagoon]

Hmmmm, that's what I thought the Apache license prevented.

[gloomy spoke]

you need to have the source available

[slim lagoon]

This is what I thought it meant here:

   names, trademarks, service marks, or product names of the Licensor,
   except as required for reasonable and customary use in describing the
   origin of the Work and reproducing the content of the NOTICE file.```

[cyan lichen]

and yeah, there might be some non-copyright things that would cause problems with selling home assistant software, like trademarks.

[slim lagoon]

Yeah, that's pretty much what I thought... but IANAL (by any means lol)

[gloomy spoke]

Accepting Warranty or Additional Liability. While redistributing the Work or Derivative Works thereof, You may choose to offer, and charge a fee for, acceptance of support, warranty, indemnity, or other liability obligations and/or rights consistent with this License. However, in accepting such obligations, You may act only on Your own behalf and on Your sole responsibility, not on behalf of any other Contributor, and only if You agree to indemnify, defend, and hold each Contributor harmless for any liability incurred by, or claims asserted against, such Contributor by reason of your accepting any such warranty or additional liability.

[slim lagoon]

Well yup, I'm wrong.

[cyan lichen]

anyways, this is interesting - someone has pulled apart and analyzed one of those no-neutral smart switches that uses a relay - https://youtu.be/VNYcD7MEp4A?t=811 - turns out it does use a triac (like a dimmer), but the triac is only used while the switch is on, and it's used to briefly switch the bulb off while the switch is on so the switch has a chance to grab some power.

[gloomy spoke]

perhaps it's nitpicking, but you're not charging for the software, but the packaging, distribution, support, updates, etc., etc.

[slim lagoon]

Yeah, no that makes much more sense now.

[native pilot]

Well, it still doesn't change the fact you can charge a service fee around installing/setting up/hardware

[slim lagoon]

lol true true

[native pilot]

as long as you don't try to charge for the license itself

[gloomy spoke]

for the most part, pretty much anything you do that allows a user to access the software could be considered "value added" by you and potentially subject to a fee

here's the URL, here's my venmo...

[slim lagoon]

Hmmmm, yeah, I agree with that. I can see where "selling" the software would be "value added" in that sense. Maybe I just don't agree with it? I don't know.

[native pilot]

I'm ok not having this conversation if it helps avoid Enshittification of the software

[slim lagoon]

That's my thought for sure.

[thin spear]

Hey guys whats your opinion about 8gb ssd for home assistant OS

[slim lagoon]

You want 32gb minimum.

[thin spear]

Ok then 128

[slim lagoon]

That would be better 🙂

Especially if you are going to do cameras/snapshots/backups, etc.

[winged knoll]

The docs are pretty clear about the 32 GB minimum, though only in the Pi docs as they don't consider that anybody else would run a system that tiny

[thin spear]

I saw it in the docs but a reputable youtuber (Andreas Spiess) used 8gb ssd and said it is fine. So I got confused and wanted to ask opinions here. I apologize for asking stupid question 😦

[winged knoll]

Fine... is relative

Maybe it was fine for them, but ... it's still a really bad idea

[thin spear]

Yeah I think so too. My thought process was to reuse old stuff instead of New 128gb m2 ssd (second ssd connecting to home assistant thin client)

[thin spear]

Honestly, I thought so too already.

[slim lagoon]

Youtube should force a disclaimer on all HA videos...

[thin spear]

FYI: I just rewatched it and he said: "an 8gb is okay for the usual stuff". Would be interesting to know what "usual stuff" is 😄

Anyways, Thanks for your opinion I will just keep the 128gb ssd and call it a day 🙂

[slim lagoon]

2 integrations, 1 addon and 10 automations... that's all you get. lol

[fresh crest]

Ah I first posted integrations and realised my mistake, didn't even think of that haha. Thanks for the answer though mate!

[neat cloud]

Hi Impact, I can write the HA image for rpi 4 using Raspberry Imager on my mac with the HA image. Plug the Raspikey into a rpi4 which has an updated bootloader telling the rpi to boot from SSD/M.2/USB and nothing. Watching the display output seems to cycle drives looking from something to boot from.

[south carbon]

Hey all, what to get..... skyconnect or sonoff (efr32mg21)? want to support zigbee + matter directly in HA.

[tall birch]

Hey I'm just getting started looking into getting HA set up, I have a pi 5 spare so going to use that. The main thing I want to do is monitor temperature/humidity in different rooms at this stage.

Does anyone have recommendations for good hygrometers that'll nicely integrate with HA? I need them to transmit via wifi (so I can place them throughout the house) and I'd prefer to avoid any external cloud services. Based in NZ and budget is fairly flexible.

[shell solstice]

hey guys i have just installed a new smart switch, but the problem is that when i turn the power back on, the light that is connected to the switch starts blinking without stopping

my answer to this is because theres another normal switch connected to the same light that causes the problem, but i am not sure what i need to fix this

anyone has an idea?

[jaunty ivy]

do you have a smart bulb installed in that light?

[shell solstice]

no

normal one

[jaunty ivy]

are you 100% sure

[shell solstice]

yep

[jaunty ivy]

is your other switch cutting power to the first one?

[shell solstice]

its a square led not smart

[shell solstice]

i think so yes

[jaunty ivy]

usually blinking means "i am not paired" / pairing mode

[jaunty ivy]

you need to look up how to wire a remote switch properly

[shell solstice]

no no if its blinking with the smart switch i have which is a tp link it does it on the switch not on the light

[shell solstice]

the other two switch worked perfectly

the problem is that with this switch is that theres another one upstairs but normal switch

they are conflicting but idk what and how to fix

[jaunty ivy]

you need to look up how to wire a remote switch properly.

it seems that you have wired them in series

[shell solstice]

series?

[jaunty ivy]

power line --> switch 1 --> switch 2 --> light

this is not how it should be done

[shell solstice]

?

i am confused

wdym sorry

[jaunty ivy]

you want two switches to control the same light, right?

[shell solstice]

well sort of yes, but just one needs to be smart

[jaunty ivy]

what you have done is wire both switches in line with eachother. if you turn off the dumb switch, the smart switch loses power.

this means it goes back into pairing mode.

this is not the correct way to wire two switches together.

you need to read the manual for your smart switch - it should tell you how to correctly wire it for use with a remote / 2-way switch setup.

[shell solstice]

i

ok?

[shell solstice]

could you explain me briefly what "way" means?

[jaunty ivy]

2-way means two switches controlling one light

[shell solstice]

so one way = one switch?

so 3 way is 3 switch?

[jaunty ivy]

Yes

[shell solstice]

ok ty

[jaunty ivy]

There is a special way to do it

Instead of cutting power to the smart switch it should have a separate connection for a secondary switch

That's what you use

[shell solstice]

so like, both switch needs to be seperate and both need to be the main ones?

so no sub switches?

[jaunty ivy]

You need to read the manual for your switch.

It will tell you exactly how to do it.

With wiring diagrams

[shell solstice]

ok

is 2 gang the same as 2 way?

[jaunty ivy]

Never guess with mains - you need to follow the manual or you could seriously hurt yourself or your hardware

[jaunty ivy]

No

2 gang is 2 switches side by side

[shell solstice]

AH

damn

ok let me see if i can find any manual for this

[jaunty ivy]

2 gang

[gloomy spoke]

there's no way this ends well...

[jaunty ivy]

You should probably get professional help with this.

[shell solstice]

yep yep!

[shell solstice]

why?

[jaunty ivy]

Mains is the last thing you want to do without knowledge 👍👍

[gloomy spoke]

how much eletrical shock is good for you? I feel like the news hasn't really given us a good answer to that...

[shell solstice]

mains in like the main switch?

[jaunty ivy]

Mains is wall power

[shell solstice]

oh i always turn it off before doing stuff

👍

i dont want to be ded

[golden thorn]

Well the raspikey is not USB. It should act like a SD card as far as I understand.

[barren geyser]

Are there any of the smart lock integrations that are fully local AND support setting lock codes?

[pliant forum]

Keymaster on HACS works well

[proper sedge]

hey folks, looking to sort the underfloor heating system in a new build, and currently on the hunt for thermo electric actuators that play nice with zigbee, I'm failing to find anything, but if anyone's knocked across something that works please let me know

ideally the actuators wouldn't be battery powered, but I may have to give up on that dream

[winged knoll]

#zigbee-archived can probably better answer that, at least if you mention the country and budget

[near chasm]

Hi, anyone ever experienced a similar situation to mine where when lights are set up on Local Tuya, it all works just fine when on a VLAN with net access.

Once put on a VLAN on the same network it's suddenly very sensitive to range

Same devices, same network hardware, same distances, and same local keys

[proper sedge]

strictly speaking I guess ZigBee isn't a hard requirement, more of a preference, but thanks for the pointer!

budget is fortunately not an issue, but this would be in UK

[barren geyser]

I saw keymaster and it seems to specify z-wave locks, but I wasn't finding info on which z-wave locks played nice vs. only reported status.
Doesn't seem like anyone has put together a matrix of which locks support which functionalities.

[pliant forum]

Most zwave locks should work if they can set codes in ZWave JS UI

I have a $30 “KeyWe” smart keypad deadbolt and it works well with that.

[barren geyser]

Ok, but to see if one can set the codes in the UI, do I have to buy it and try it? Or are you saying the if the lock supports z-wave it will absolutely support setting codes via z-wave?
I'm asking because some of the threads I've found on the Yale Bluetooth and WiFI locks seem to indicate that status reports via Bluetooth but codes can only be set via the cloud wifi API. Trying to sort out the details before I spend $200+, if possible.

[pliant forum]

WiFi/Bluetooth locks you likely won’t be able to set codes locally. Look up the Z-Wave parameters for the lock you want and it’ll show if it allows you to set codes via Z-Wave. Most zwave locks will allow you to because they have no other communication method besides Z-Wave most of the time.

Kwikset 916 for example.

Make sure you get a lock with S2 if you go Z-Wave

[narrow bone]

Here, for non-smart switches, a 3-way switch would refer to the first two switches controlling one light, and a 4-way switch would be used for three or more switches controlling one light. For any given set of switches controlling a light, the first (closest to power source) and last (closest to light) switch would be three way, and if you have more than two switches, all of the ones between the first and last would be 4-way switches.

[narrow bone]

Electrical shock is only one way to be dead from it. Fire is just as bad.

[jaunty ivy]

Is there any good option for a local control air purifier apart from ikea?

The ikea one actually seems quite nice (fully zigbee, etc) but the only thing I don't like about it is the size/shape - the air is blown out the sides instead of the top, meaning no "donut effect"

[cold moon]

https://apolloautomation.com/products/air-1?variant=47743956091187

fully local using esphome

[rose musk]

So I have a Yamaha AV receiver for my cinema and Home assistant setup locally

When I run my script/automation whether from a webhook or android shortcut it is near on INSTANT, like absolutely less than half a second (don't know how I could measure) but it's inperceivable as a delay.

My question is,

A) Is that because it's all locally hosted?
B) Is there smart bulbs that can also be that quick & reliable? I have some GY wifi bulbs right now and they're absolutely awful.
I've also tried zigbee bridge & bulbs and they are hit/miss with reliability. Any suggestions?

[jaunty ivy]

this is an air quality sensor.

[cold moon]

Oh you said purifier ok

Buy a good hepa one not any high quality smart ones that I know of

[gloomy spoke]

The gourd level is off the charts!

[cold moon]

Live love laugh okay

[sinful rover]

Anyone have any recommendations for devices I can put around my house to interact with hass assist (voice) ... ideally PoE but will accept mains/usb powered wifi.

[winged knoll]

#voice-assistants-archived can probably better answer that

[jaunty ivy]

I'm looking for door/window sensors. Aqara hardware seems to be nice, but apparently the zigbee implementation sucks?

[winged knoll]

Their E1/T1/P1 ranges don't suck

The original range is ok too, as long as you follow the advice pinned in #zigbee-archived

Half my mesh is original Aqara

[jaunty ivy]

ok, cool

[jaunty ivy]

Is it worth having multiple pm sensors in a smallish apartment?

co2 per room definitely seems to be a good idea, but not sure about pm

[glacial oracle]

yes

similar to how co2 can differ per room, the particle amounts may also vary vastly

[jaunty ivy]

ill put together a couple sniffers then

3 sniffers are cheaper than any single off the shelf unit, jeez

[slim lagoon]

lol what's a "sniffer"?

[jaunty ivy]

https://github.com/kylemanna/sniffer

[glacial oracle]

https://static.wikia.nocookie.net/minecraft_gamepedia/images/e/ec/Sniffer_sniffsniff.gif/revision/latest?cb=20230723003116

[slim lagoon]

Ahhhh... Ok! Neat!

[jaunty ivy]

no co2, but thats the "easy" part

[slim lagoon]

I just got some of the Apollo sensors... Same basic concept, but I didn't have to do the work to put them together.

[jaunty ivy]

yeah those look really nice

just cant justify the cost

[slim lagoon]

They function REALLY well. Better than I thought they would tbh.

[jaunty ivy]

three of these is less than one of those

[slim lagoon]

Yup. I get it.

[jaunty ivy]

wish they would make a less fancy one

they are using a really really fancy sensor

[glacial oracle]

well less fancy usually means less reliable or accurate

[jaunty ivy]

no, the exact opposite

[cold moon]

If you made the air-1 yourself you wouldn’t save much money

Maybe $25

[slim lagoon]

Yeah, but it shows... I got their MSR-1/MTR-1 too for presence. WAY more accurate than any of the other presense sensors I have.

[glacial oracle]

yea those just cost

[jaunty ivy]

they are using a new fancy sensor that measures like 10 things instead of the tried/true x003s

airgradient, etc all use x003s

[cold moon]

https://github.com/home-assistant/core/pull/112867 one of you should help get this pushed through

[jaunty ivy]

its a cool sensor but id rather have tried/tested than have the extra data which is not really useful for me.

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/17t362y/beta_testers_needed_for_new_air_quality_sensor/k8uhczf/?context=3

You can see the two talking about it here, actually

[glacial oracle]

its a bit more complicated than just putting plenty of sensing units in a box
it doing what it needs to do in a verified installation component is pretty good

it probably would be a lot less expensive if they would move some large volumes of it

[cold moon]

Look up the sen55 they use on it and esp32c3 and whatever else. It’s prob $50 in parts or more depending on sourcing

[jaunty ivy]

anyways, wish there was a good off the shelf sensor that did pm, co2, temp, and humidity. No bells and whistles

[slim lagoon]

That's the dream... not going to happen anytime soon, but we can still wish. 🤷‍♂️

[jaunty ivy]

i just cant justify $150 cad per sensor when i can build three that do the smaller set of functionality that i want for the cost of one

air1 gives a ton of other interesting data which would be very useful in a shop but i dont need it so cant justify the cost to myself

[glacial oracle]

the SCD-30 is probably a second best buy if you can source a pm sensor from another source

[cold moon]

I’d buy the sen55 and diy with that cuz it’s only like $5 more than other similar sensors that don’t include as many features

[jaunty ivy]

scd30 is waaay overkill haha

[slim lagoon]

tbf, I really only care about pm2 and co2. Temp and humidity I have covered with my Aqara sensors. But the air-1 was kinda a no brainer for me as I wanted something small that I could keep tucked away and not have to build myself (because I'm lazy now lol).

[glacial oracle]

there was another sensor combo out there

[jaunty ivy]

yeh, looks like a great product from a great company

[glacial oracle]

i forgot but they had you to manually calibrate it outdoors

like as if that would make any sense

[slim lagoon]

That was the other reason... I really appreciate what Apollo is trying to do.

[cold moon]

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sensirion-ag/SEN55-SDN-T/16342756 $32 from digikey

i think that's the same model not 100%

[glacial oracle]

so all we need to do is order 440 of them?

[slim lagoon]

https://tenor.com/Hxfz.gif

[cold moon]

tbh i didnt even look at the cost going down for that amount

that's actually a good price break and probably allows apollo to get by on smaller margins

no idea where they source their shit from tho

[glacial oracle]

Manufacturer Standard Lead Time
10 Weeks

[slim lagoon]

10 weeks?!

[cold moon]

digikey gonna key digiley

[glacial oracle]

we gotta be quick

they only have another 2000 in stock

[jaunty ivy]

https://esphome.io/components/sensor/sen5x.html

seems like if you dont care about having the display / nice pcb / case, you can just slap the sen55 and an esp in a box and call it a day

[glacial oracle]

pretty much yes

[cold moon]

that's what i was saying above

[jaunty ivy]

yep

[cold moon]

https://www.printables.com/model/319282-sensirion-sen5xsps50-d1-mini-case

here's a 3d printable case

[jaunty ivy]

nice

[cold moon]

https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=tag:sen55

https://www.printables.com/model/689966-air-quality-sensor-sen5x-mh-z19-ssd1327 this one looks good imo

[jaunty ivy]

oh man love the epaper one

[glacial oracle]

interesting

anyone got some details about the mmwave apollo sensors

[jaunty ivy]

those also look so nice

[slim lagoon]

What details do you want?

[cold moon]

what about them?

[jaunty ivy]

ive spent the last half hour drooling at their stuff

[slim lagoon]

lol welcome to home automation?

[cold moon]

i have an msr-1, msr-2, and mtr-1

[glacial oracle]

wether or not they work nicely or if there is something to watch out for

[cold moon]

but i only have the msr-1 in use the other two i just got and need to configure

[glacial oracle]

30 bucks looks like a steal

[slim lagoon]

I've been meaning to order the MSR-2 next.

They work FANTASTIC

[cold moon]

the only downside is it's wifi

(i'm trying to minimize my current amount of wifi devices)

[slim lagoon]

The MTR-1 can't be tuned though (at least not that I've seen). The MSR-1/2 can be tuned properly.

[cold moon]

it can they just released a guide

Sorry for the delay! We have been working on wiki articles for the MTR-1. Let us know what you think about these zone configuration guides. It looks like you can now leave comments at the bottom of our wiki articles!

HLKRadarTool App: https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/mtr-1-ImK/page/zone-configuration-using-hlkradartool-app
Local Home Assistant (Still having issues with zones saving after restart): https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/mtr-1-ImK/page/zone-configuration-using-home-assistant

[glacial oracle]

do they cover a common™️ sized room or is there a need for multiple ones per room

[slim lagoon]

lol @cold moon and I'm going the opposite direction... I keep adding wifi devices.

[cold moon]

i either need more mimo in my life or less wifi devices

[slim lagoon]

Yeah, I know about the zone tuning. But I want to see gate tuning within the zones too.

[slim lagoon]

What's "common"? lol

[slim lagoon]

I have issues

[cold moon]

eww

[glacial oracle]

20m² or something

[cold moon]

i have 4 APs and it's still not enough

[slim lagoon]

Hey, at least most of them are on my 107 subnet.

[cold moon]

really depends on placement

i started splitting mine out and gave up and simplified it

[slim lagoon]

I only have 3 APs... for 1200 sq ft... 🤣

[cold moon]

i have trusted + unifi gear on one subnet/vlan and then cams/iot/3dprinters on their own

[slim lagoon]

Same pretty much

[glacial oracle]

i think you got a subnet on your device right there

[slim lagoon]

@glacial oracle so, none of my rooms are that big, but the MTR-1 and MSR-1 covers my entire room. But it depends on placement like other mmWave sensors. I will say though that the chips they went with are performing really well compared to my FP2s.

[glacial oracle]

hmm i suppose sticking one on a window facing the entire room without much blocking it should work somewhat acceptable then

[slim lagoon]

I would think so, yeah. Plus, they are so damn TINY...

My only complaint on that though is because it's so small and the board gets pretty warm, you have to tinker a lot with the temp to dial it in right and not get too affected by the board heat.

[glacial oracle]

wonder if sticking a heat sink on it would help

[slim lagoon]

Probably... but you'd have to print a new case for it. I don't think there's enough room to actually put anything on the board itself.

[cold moon]

really?

[slim lagoon]

100%... I have a serious love/hate relationship with my FP2s.

[cold moon]

mtr-1 and msr-1 perform better than fp2

i expected them to be the same

[slim lagoon]

The idea is fantastic... the execution... meh, not so much. Still major ghosting issues... can't do anything related to tuning the radar energy so things like ceiling fans will cause false positives.

Nah, I expected the Apollo kit to be better than the FP2s. I wasn't surprised at all.

BUT, I will say that if Apollo can ever figure out how to get the zone mapping to be as configurable as the FP2 is, they will make millions.

[cold moon]

ya i think that will be a tall order but idk

[slim lagoon]

Oh for sure... But, that's the dream at least. I still need the FP2s for some of my automations, but if I ever find something to replace them 100%, they're gone.

[cold moon]

like what? (automations)

[slim lagoon]

Like more than 3 zones or being able to define zones that are side by side to each other. So, in my kitchen, I have 5 zones in a kinda weird layout. Each zone controls various lights and automations (standing at the stove, turn on a couple of lights. Standing at the kitchen sink, turn on those lights but turn off the stove lights, etc).

[thorny holly]

Does the Jabra 410 work out of the box with raspberry pi?

I was reading that the 410 only works with softphones so I want to make sure

[high cobalt]

Hello, I’m using some ikea rgb light bulbs, and having the issue of when turning the bulb on with a certain color, it turns on with the previous for a second then changes to the desired color.

For example it’s off and I want to turn it on as red, it turns on as white for a second then change to red. Is there a way to fix this?

There is a setting in Z2M in the exposes that says “ Execute if off:
Controls whether color and color temperature can be set while light is off”

But it only works when changing the color from Z2M but not the HA service

[glacial oracle]

dont cross post your question

[slim lagoon]

Looks like it: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/jabra-speak-410-usb-speaker-working-as-expected/162591

[thorny holly]

That same thing was happening to me and I believe it's a function of the bulb as it only happens with certain devices.

[glacial oracle]

didnt you also already get an answer on that

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/view/too-much-overwhelmed-sigh-a-lot-stress-gif-5987920037539735892

[glacial oracle]

yes he did already get an answer on that
<#the-water-cooler message>

why ask it again, the result wont change

[high cobalt]

But it works and I can change the color even when it’s off, but only from Z2M

[thorny holly]

He probably didn't understand the answer

[thorny holly]

So you're saying when you change bulb from off->on outside of home assistant this doesn't happen, but when changing the state from home assistant it does happen?

[slim lagoon]

It's probably how the light.turn_on service in HA is working with MQTT. Or how Z2M is interpreting the MQTT set and doing it in a quick stage as opposed to direct cluster control in Z2M itself. Maybe...

[thorny holly]

This is what I figured out was happening with my sengled bulbs:

1. Bulb is set to color red
2. I tell home assistant to set the bulb state to "off" and bulb turns on
3. I tell home assistant to set the bulb state to "on", the bulb initially turns on to it's default state (white) then remembers that color state was also there, so it applies that

[high cobalt]

Yes if it was set to white then i turn it off, then I call the HA service to turn it on as red, it turns on as white then changes to red

[thorny holly]

Do you have a way to control these bulbs from outside HA? Are they zigbee? Do you have a hub?

It looks like the issue isn't home assistant -- but the actions the bulb takes internally when it's "on" state is changed

[glacial oracle]

that is pretty common depending on the hardware

[high cobalt]

But if I control it directly from Z2M,

I can set the color to red even when it’s off, then turn it on and it will be red

[thorny holly]

Gotcha -- that's what I was asking. So this isn't a direct hardware issue

[high cobalt]

Yeah, is it probably something that could be improved ?

[cyan lichen]

FWIW, I've got some ikea rgb bulbs that i'm using with ZHA, and it doesn't have this problem - seems like the way ZHA handles the home assistant light.turn_on call lets it set the color before turning the bulb on :/

[thorny holly]

If that's the case -- there may be an issue with the Mqtt being sent by HA, it's most likely sending extra commands it doesn't need to

And/or sending them in the wrong order

[high cobalt]

I think it’s sending the command in the wrong order. I.e turn on, then set color

[thorny holly]

Not sure what channel you would ask about troubleshooting Mqtt though

[high cobalt]

I could give it a try

[cyan lichen]

z2m and zha are different enough that 'giving it a try' is unlikely to be easy :(

[high cobalt]

So just to be clear, the problem is with HA talking with Z2M, and not Z2M talking to the bulb?

[high cobalt]

From what I know is that you can run them simultaneously

[cyan lichen]

yes, if you have separate zigbee networks running using separate radios

[high cobalt]

Ooh 0_o

[cyan lichen]

it looks like HA should be sending Z2M a single MQTT message with one command that includes the state, brightness, and color all at the same time, as long as the light is turn on with a single call to light.turn_on which includes the color.

(but that's very much a "should", and i'm not familiar with how to check the actual messages)

[high cobalt]

As you can see, it even looks like it was red at first, then white then back to red

[cyan lichen]

oh, right, i've got the ZHA "Enable enhanced light color/temperature transition from an off-state" option enabled. If i disable that, then I get the same effect as you're seeing.

i'm... not actually sure what that option does, tbh.

[high cobalt]

Is this in the ikea bulb ZHA settings? Or a general ZHA setting

[cyan lichen]

that's a global zha setting.

interesting, that triggers this code: https://github.com/home-assistant/core/blob/dev/homeassistant/components/zha/light.py#L236-L246. Which means that zigpy thinks that my bulb doesn't support "execute if off" (to change the color without turning the bulb on).

so it's running a workaround that turns the bulb on at min brightness, then sets the color, then sets the bulb to desired brightness.

well, that's interesting. i tried running a zigbee MoveToHueAndSaturation command manually on my bulb, and the bulb does process color changes when off, as long as the options mask and options override are set properly.

I should pop over to #zigbee-archived :)

[cold moon]

yes sounds like a feature request is needed and all the suggestions saying it's hardware specific have been wrong

[cyan lichen]

a tricky thing i noticed while poking into this - (some of) my ikea bulbs report that they implement revision 1 of the color control cluster, but the support for color changes with "execute if off" was added in cluster revision 2.

one of my newer ikea bulbs does report cluster revision 2 :)

[cold moon]

i was told only certain bulbs do it (like hue but not ikea, sengled, etc)

[cyan lichen]

works on all my ikea bulbs.

[winter plaza]

Hello all, totally new here!

I installed a Shelly 1 gen3 Mini behind this light switch because I wanted to keep my LIFX bulb connected to power but have the light off when switch is in OFF position.

I now realize I need to use HA as a hub in order to do that? So here I am.
Should I just use the windows 10 PC in my garage that I usually have on 24/7 as the server for now?

[tepid heart]

Sure you can do that but just until you can get something that does not use Windows OS.

[winter plaza]

so it'll work on windows OS but it's not really ideal?

i can use windows OS for now to get it to do what i want and learn how HA works in the meantime and then when I get a dedicated device i can just transition over pretty easily?

[tepid heart]

Yes. Very easy to transfer your full config. The biggest issue with windows is that it will restart on you for updates.

Try Running HAOS in a VM on the windows PC or if you are familiar with Docker a Container install in a VM on whatever Linux OS you like.

https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/windows/ see #installation-archived if you need help with that.

[winter plaza]

I'm not familiar with docker whatsoever so I guess I should try running HAOS?

Will look into #installation-archived thank you!

Is there a general consensus on what I should buy to use as a dedicated server?

[cold moon]

A mini pc like the beelink n100 based ones

[knotty fern]

I am changing my thermostat, and as long as I am changing, would like to use one that works with HA. I am an HA novice. What one is recommended for my heat pump setup? TYIA

[sinful rover]

What country are you in?

[knotty fern]

USA

[sinful rover]

I’m in the uk so am looking at hive as my only real option but I know hive pulled out of the us market.

If it was widely available/supported in the uk I’d have gone with the Honeywell T9 instead as I’ve seen some good reviews for it.

Moes and Shelly have ones that have good reviews too from my research but neither have much installation support in the uk.

[thorny holly]

Posting in here instead of the specific channels bc I want to weight both:

I've read a lot of zigbee vs zwave opinions but a lot of them are old, is the general consensus still:
Zigbee for nonessential devices (lights, switches, etc)
Z-Wave for essential devices (locks, door sensors, etc)

Or should I just pick one and stick with it?

[glacial oracle]

There is no downside of picking both besides the cost involved for the coordinators

Not all device types are available for each of those protocols, or at least not in a variety that would be nice

[winged knoll]

You just have to have enough cash to build out both meshes

[thorny holly]

Is there a considerable downside to picking one or the other?

Right now I have a zigbee stick for lights and light switches. I'm wondering if I should get/make a zigbee lock, or if zwave is a better option for security-related devices

[winged knoll]

Z-Wave costs more, but all works together - if you can buy the devices you want in your region
Zigbee is cheaper, but needs more care to ensure it all works

Unless you can afford to build out both meshes then focus on just one

[thorny holly]

Wdym zigbee needs "more care"

[winged knoll]

See the pins in #zigbee-archived

Not all devices play nicely with other brands

Osram's Zigbee 1.2 stuff for instance, or some Tuya, or some Sonoff

And the original Xiaomi (Zigbee 1.2 stuff) can be fussy about the routers they work with

[thorny holly]

Ah gotcha, the standard isn't as standard as zwave is what you mean?

[winged knoll]

Well, more that Z-Wave has testing and certification, so people follow the standard

Zigbee doesn't, so people often don't

Zigbee 3.0 stuff though is usually (mostly) well behaved - except for Tuya (and maybe Sonoff)

[thorny holly]

Now does that mean that zwave devices are more secure than zigbee in any capacity, or is it just a function of one breaking less than the other?

[outer knot]

@thorny holly When using Discord's Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Use Shift + click on the Reply option, or click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.

You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).

[winged knoll]

No, Zigbee has security too

And Zigbee mandates it, where Z-Wave doesn't

(a feature of the fact that Zigbee has more bandwidth)

My Zigbee mesh is over 100 devices strong and doesn't break

My Z-Wave mesh was smaller and not so stable

[thorny holly]

Gotcha, so it's just a question of reliability

[winged knoll]

And both are largely the same, as long as you follow the guidance

Z-Wave JS (the "new" Z-Wave for HA) is a lot better than the old Z-Wave integration that I used

I don't see many people reporting stability problems any more, and most of those come down to people ignoring the guidance

[knotty fern]

Thank you. I'll check them out!

[thorny holly]

Does anyone here know of a smart deadbolt that has key faces on both sides? Like this:

Preferably something's that's zigbee/zwave

[tender aurora]

do you require that on both sides?

because you have the danalock locks that only is mounted on the inside

[thorny holly]

Yes I need a key on both sides for my deadbolt

It's a layer of physical security I need unfortunately based on how the door I'm trying to control is set up. It has some glass panels that are big enough to stick an arm through if broken out to mess with the lock.

[glacial oracle]

replacing the door may increase the security more than replacing the lock ^^
I am not sure if such solution would be practical, usually the indoor side of the lock is where the the motor parts are located to operate the bolt

[tired abyss]

Hi!
Is there anyone UK based that has experience with, and could recommend, a decent entry level energy consumption clamp that integrates well with HA and has minimal faffing to get set up?
I've played around with energy monitoring sockets and I'm loving it. Now I'd like to get up and running with full power monitoring for all outgoing mains, or eventually get clamps per loop so I can monitor more fine grain.

Thanks in advance!

[glacial oracle]

shelly has a pretty solid offering of those

there is anoter one that gets recommended for having plenty more measurement probes per unit but i dont remember the brand of that one. if you search in this channel it should come up

[static marsh]

Hi, I’m new to Home Assistant. Is there a way to integrate a Nest Guard? We all know, Goggle bought Nest a while ago, just to decide to get rid of it a few years later. The Nest Camera’s I can still use in the Nest App, and with an Nest Link device I’m able to continue using my Door Lock, however Nest Guard became useless since it’s not supported anymore. Any advice you can recommend? Also, are you guys recommend Home Assistants Green (SKU 113110024) for $99.-? 🤔

[cold moon]

personally i'd suggest not touching anything nest and buying a mini pc instead of a green due to its performance vs cost

[winged knoll]

Nest would be a topic for #integrations-archived

[lyric mortar]

I may not be telling you anything you don't already know, but double-sided deadbolts of the sort you are asking about are frowned upon (at best) in many locales and may even be illegal / against code in many areas. Not being able to easily open an exit door in an emergency like a fire is super unsafe and not something I would ever consider for my home.

[cold moon]

ya fire code would not approve

[torn igloo]

Anyone know any deep blank light switch covers for dimmers (uk)?

[drifting grove]

Can anyone help me buy a PC in the North America?

[winged knoll]

You've got to explain more 😉

What does "help me buy" mean?

You want somebody to buy one and send it to you?

You want somebody to advise you on specs?

[slim lagoon]

Reminds me of those “will someone buy this game for me? I can’t afford it.” lol

[winged knoll]

Maybe... that's why I'm warming up ||my banhammer||

[terse pebble]

TinkerThor

[glacial oracle]

[winged knoll]

https://tenor.com/view/really-chillin-calm-blank-stare-gif-18282258

[glacial oracle]

Could any of you guys recommend a ha compatible ac coupled battery system?

[terse pebble]

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/397426163649216512/1197946849630371900/EMH.gif

[terse pebble]

I guess you don't mean a UPS, right?

[glacial oracle]

Yes, more like storage for solar but both feeding of and supplying ac

It doesn't really need to provide ups functionality

[high cobalt]

I submitted a feature request, it's my first time so is it good ?

https://github.com/Koenkk/zigbee2mqtt/issues/22653#issue-2298246511

[glacial oracle]

Seems about right to me

[cold moon]

that was for the other guy

he already talked to the zha devs in #zigbee-archived

[pliant forum]

soon maybe. https://www.theverge.com/2024/5/15/24157154/google-home-api-matter-smart-home-chromecast-google-tv

I’d honestly change out all the Nest stuff though 😛

[glacial oracle]

With open they surely mean they can access your data easily

[thorny holly]

Can y'all recommend a "featureless" smart deadbolt that uses either zigbee or zwave

[slim lagoon]

Featureless? Like no codes or keypad or anything like that?

[thorny holly]

I don't want any keypads, biometric auth, etc. just a standard key lock on one side and thumb latch on the other with a relay inside to open/close the lock

[thorny holly]

Exactly

[slim lagoon]

TBH, I've never heard of a device like that. You might be able to do something with like an August or Switchbot Lock Pro and just put a standard deadbolt on the door instead.

[thorny holly]

I saw the level bolt but that's Wi-Fi only 😦

[slim lagoon]

Yeah, the level bolt is ok-ish. I've heard people have issues with them. But in terms of Zigbee or Z-Wave... I've not heard of any like you want.

[static marsh]

Thanks for the info. So it’s true, you guys are really on top of this 🫵🏻🤗

[modest void]

I'm getting into espresence, the m5stamp seems like the best for size/price.

What's the best way to power it?

I feel like we need an option that plugs into a wall socket and just has a male USB C sticking out at a right angle either up or down. Even if it was female, I can get a male to male adapter. But barring that, what's my closest option?

[thorny holly]

I actually found this by kwikset: https://www.kwikset.com/products/detail/kwikset-convert-smart-lock-conversion-kit-with-z-wave-technology

It's supported by zigbee2mqtt and works with the existing external lock face (exactly what I want). Do y'all see any red flags?

(Posted in here because it's both zigbee and z-wave, asking more about the lock itself than the protocol)

[pliant forum]

I had one of these a while ago, ended up trashing it becuase of poor build quality. The locking part would just keep turning instead of engaging the deadbolt occasionally.. preventing us from unlocking/locking the door. It's almost like it'd get mis-aligned somehow

[thorny holly]

What deadbolt internals were you using? Kwikset or a different brand?

[pliant forum]

Schlage

It has adapters for various brands

upside of those is that they're super cheap on ebay

[thorny holly]

When you say the lock part would keep turning -- do you mean just the electronic part?

Or would the physical latch/keyhole get stuck too?

[pliant forum]

No no, the actual part you turn to lock/unlock the door on the interior side

I also had issues with the lock reporting the wrong state

[thorny holly]

Whoa! Thanks for letting me know! Thats a huge price difference vs retail

[pliant forum]

Keep in mind you don't want the Amazon Key/Kevo version

you can always buy a zigbee/zwave module seperate though with the key version

[thorny holly]

Yep i saw on their website that they had this lock in zwave/zigbee so I assumed it had a replaceable module of some sort

$100 from a retailer is a bit too much for an unsure device, but $50 on ebay I'm willing to experiment

[pliant forum]

Yeah. I replaced it with a $30 zwave keypad deadbolt I also found on ebay sealed 🤣

Works great in ZWave JS UI

[thorny holly]

The only reason I'm looking at this lock specifically is because my agreement with my housemates is no external keypad/biometrics/etc

They don't like the look of it, so we agreed to find something that has a normal key lock face on the external side with no keypad/biometric/etc

[pliant forum]

man

I didn't realize how cheap these have gotten haha

[thorny holly]

Is this the one that just fits over the existing latch?

I heard there were issues with these

[pliant forum]

I'm not sure, never really looked into August stuff for the reason you stated

[outer knot]

@crude flax I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:

[winged knoll]

That'd be a topic for the #zigbee-archived channel (do please read the channel topics)

[crude flax]

oh sorry... of course it's zigbee

[tough frost]

I've tried staying away from wifi products and done most of my installation with ZigBee, but lately I've been adding on more and more wifi.

How should I be managing my network to maintain throughout on my important connections (tv, PC, phones etc) and hamstring the iot stuff which should not require much bandwidth?

Access point for iot? Separate router? I run an archer 1600

[glacial oracle]

You mostly want a dedicated access point for it

Or at least being able to restrict the network to unly uses a subset of available transmission slot things

It being on its own vlan and all those funky things is more optional and doesn't really affect performance

[winged knoll]

VLANs can however mess up connectivity with HA

[tough frost]

So a dedicated access point that has a configurable bandwidth allocation?

[glacial oracle]

If it's dedicated then it doesn't need to be configurable, but if you reuse your main ones you want to restrict it to some 1x1 mimo or something for that network

Pure bandwidth limits don't do a whole lot, those devices just talk often but don't send a whole lot of data

[silk locust]

Hello I'm trying to get the presence one sensor from Lewis to do zones. I've updated to the beta firmware, enable the configuration and added the distance for the zones. Sadly I get no info on targets or distance for each target or just a way to say "zone 1 occupancy". Did I do something wrong ?

[winged knoll]

Have you tried asking on the EP server?

[copper hill]

isn't that unsupported with the older sensor

[karmic cargo]

Maybe this is the right place... I've got a graph of battery power for my various battery powered sensors. The batteries all seem to be recharging. This is, in my experience, not to be expected...

Anyone else ever seen anything like this and/or have any suggestions as to how/why? Or is it that the reported battery charge level is like the weather forecast: a random guess, at best.

I've never opened any of these devices to replace batteries since I purchased them.
Just for giggles, here's a more detailed view of one of them.

[slim lagoon]

That's not uncommon. Battery reporting on some devices is sometimes hit or miss. There's really no "standard" for battery reporting on sensors, at least not one I have ever seen. Case in point, some of my sensors, which are fairly new, report 70% battery and have so for months. I'm fairly certain that if I pull the battery out and test it, it would be closer to 90%, but that's just what the sensor reports.

[silk locust]

Indeed it may be possible yes haven't found any direct say it doesn't. I flash using Lewis website and even specified the sensor.

[winged knoll]

I've got a bunch that have been reporting 0% battery for months now, and work fine.

Another bunch that flip between 0% and 100% all the time

[slim lagoon]

So, while I track battery stats, I don't put a lot of stock into what they report. I look more at how they are functioning (missing events, long periods of reporting missing, etc).

[silk locust]

It didn't find a link to the EP server ... I did try if you have it on hand do you mind sharing?

[karmic cargo]

So it is like the weather forecast, then. 50% chance it'll be 70% wrong. Fair enough!
I'll keep the graph because I like pretty lines, plus, it'll give me some clue as to why some automation has stopped working...

[copper hill]

dm:d

[winged knoll]

https://discord.com/invite/Bgfvy2f

[winged knoll]

I use device availability, where supported, rather than worrying about the battery level

The battery level just tells me to ensure that I've got some spare to hand

[karmic cargo]

I'll keep an eye on that. Though I've discovered that many of my devices seem to go on walks around town. At least, HA reports that they're not home... 🤷‍♂️

[silk locust]

Merci !

[broken reef]

Hi, I need a recommendation for a smart power plug with Zigbee support for the german schuko socket that supports measuring power use up to 3200 W. I want to measure the power use of my washing mashine to build a notification for when it's done and bought one from Aqara. Unfortunately the Aqara plug only allows up to 2800W of power to go through it and trips an internal fuse if the washing machine goes over it which it does quite often.

[winged knoll]

Maybe check the Innr ones, not sure what they go up to

Ikea is also worth checking from memory

[slim lagoon]

Ask in #zigbee-archived

[quasi mountain]

got it, thanks

[short portal]

I'm using home assistant green at the moment. If I install home assistant on a synology NAS, will I lose any features? The addon store?

[slim lagoon]

Synology made some changes to how USB sticks are passed through to containers. Not 100% certain, but it looks like it breaks Zigbee/Z-Wave dongles in containers. I think VMs still work properly though.

[short portal]

oh hmm, interesting

[glacial oracle]

You probably won't gain a whole lot from switching either

[short portal]

Makes sense, I was weighing up buying a NAS for some other purpose and figured... why not combine them, one less device. But maybe I should just sit the green on top of it and call it a day

[winged knoll]

That's be the easier approach, and probably more stable

[short portal]

the green has been remarkably stable so far

[slim lagoon]

Plus, if you have to reboot the NAS, HA will still be running 🙂

[golden thorn]

Buy a (U)SFF/Mini PC, virtualize HAOS and a NAS OS (or just debian) and be able to use it for both.

[rose silo]

Anyone have a rec for a IoT water valve? Either ZWave with 120v AC power or POE are fine. Want to set up some automated sprinklers.

[fringe crater]

consider just a regular dumb sprinkler valve (like the ones in every irrigated lawn), and then just control it with your own relay?
I would think that's a lot more flexible and off-the-shelf.

[rose silo]

Good idea. I'll look into that. Thanks.

[pseudo jackal]

i have a zooz zen17 that i was originally using for my garage door (it's a long story...). It was a bit of a pain to get connected, but once you do, it's seemed to work really well. only 2 relays on it though, so you might want/need more, but it also has dry contact switch options if that seems useful. and it's pretty cheap. https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen17-universal-relay/

[rose silo]

Thanks!

[unreal vault]

Having trouble googling what I’m after: I’m looking for a switch I can connect to HA to control a bathroom fan/speaker. It’s a homewerks and to turn on the fan I toggle the switch rapidly (speaker is just regular toggle) it’s a very awkward setup

Maybe I can just put in a normal switch and in HA if I want to turn on the fan, send the command to turn the switch off and on

[keen hollow]

hi yaall im new here and new to home assistant,
im building a smart dog house so i can take care of them while away
my question is does any device that says `works with alexa ~ will works on HA?
i dont want to use my voice to control, but rather a button press on the app to turn on something
also i dont have coding exp and would like to go the cheaper as possible
thank you

[thorny holly]

You can probably automate/script that

I.E. One press of a dashboard button = many presses of the device's button

[brittle breach]

I have some Feit Wifi bulbs. How does it communicate with Home Assitant? What protocol?

I can't find any info online...

The product description says The bulb connects directly to your 2. 4 GHz Wi-Fi at home and can be controlled from anywhere as long as you have access to a Wi-Fi or cellular network

[cyan lichen]

from https://community.home-assistant.io/t/feit-electric-integration/250212/7 it sounds like those are Tuya based devices and are kind of a pain to work with. You can probably use them with the LocalTuya integration, available via HACS.

[thorny holly]

What do you mean? What type of device are you trying to activate?

Most devices that work with alexa have HA integrations, but you might not want wifi-based devices for something essential like a dog house

[shell lark]

Hi all, does anyone know a smart display that fits into a European mounting frame for a switch like Gira?

[glacial oracle]

There are a couple, most will however not play nicely with HomeAssistant

Realistically they tend to be a waste of money as they are too small to display stuff properly

[shell lark]

Can you please name some. I've found nothing so far. Only things like the NSPanel or the Shelly Display, which don't fit into such frames.

[glacial oracle]

Not sure which frames you have

The Shelly one has regional model, one of which is circular that should fit

You will however need full size depth ones, the flatter ones may interfere with mostly anything

[shell lark]

But your are not able to put the frame on top of the display, right? I'm searching something like this.

[glacial oracle]

Oh that is something different

That's something that's fits into a deco plate

They are just mediocre standard ish so it very much would need to come with one

[shell lark]

sorry, yes a deco plate

[glacial oracle]

Sadly I don't know about those

[slim lagoon]

@burnt glen So, to answer your question, you can go with one sensor per room, obviously depending on the size of the room itself. Most mmWave sensors can detect up to 6m, but some can go higher.

[burnt glen]

Looking for presence detection for an open floor plan. My foyer, living room and dining room are all one space. They lead to a sunroom with just a separation wall for the kitchen. Wondering how many I would need. It was suggested to go with Apollo.

[burnt glen]

Interesting is there an option to sort of draw a virtual floor plan

[slim lagoon]

Lucidchart has a floor plan creator that is supposedly pretty good. That's the first thing I would do. Create your floor plan and try to get your room sizes correct.

[burnt glen]

Trying to separate these 5 spaces

[slim lagoon]

Ahhhh, ok that doesn't seem too large. You could probably go with one sensor per room, I think.

What might be best is to start out with 2 or 3 sensors and get them placed. Then test out how they do. Once you have those down and can identify any blindspots, then I would go with more if you need them.

Also, keep in mind that the good mmWave sensors are mains powered (USB-C). So, you'll need to take that into account when placing them. Tuya recently released a battery version that's been tested by a few people and the reviews are mixed. BUT, if you can't go with powered sensors, it might work out for you as well.

[burnt glen]

What’s the price point one one of these things

I tried these things in a few areas like turning on the basement lights, but the battery life is terrible

[slim lagoon]

lol, Tuya?

[burnt glen]

I can’t remember starts with a w

Hasn’t worked in 2 years and I’m too lazy to replace the battery

[slim lagoon]

The price points vary. The Apollo ones come in around $35-$39 US and I have 4 of them, which I love. The Everything Pro is $59 US (I think?). The Aqara FP2 is around $80 US (but are usually on sale on Amazon for around $65 US).

[burnt glen]

Not toooooo bad but up there

What model Apollo again? Thanks

[slim lagoon]

Eh, it's one of those "you get what you pay for" except for the FP2 (again, totally imho and based upon my experience).

MTR-1 if you need multi-tracking or the MSR-2 if you just want to know presence.

[burnt glen]

Thanks for you help! Got to get the kids to school

[slim lagoon]

Sounds good! Anytime!

[stone pivot]

I think it is time for me to retire my Pi 3 B+.

it served me very well for years, but for some reason it's having the hardest time power cycling, and now it doesn't want to start ZHA anymore.

[keen hollow]

Air conditioner smart controler
Lights
Dog feeder

[keen hollow]

What would you recommend qnd maybe even why

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/bRn74.gif

[stone pivot]

yeah, going for a TRIGKEY green G4 N100 NUC. Should be good enough to last me 10+ years.

[cold moon]

that looks identical to the beelink ones i think

[stone pivot]

seems like it, yeah

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/Beelink-Pro-Desktop-Computer-1000Mbps/dp/B0C89TQ1YF this goes down to $160 somewhat regularly which is the same hardware i think

[stone pivot]

I'm in EU land, so pricing is different.

https://www.amazon.fr/TRIGKEY-Ordinateur-Intel-génération-Lake-N100/dp/B0CJR3J864?th=1 seems identical yeah

[solar tide]

Hi all, not sure if the right thread but I had a quick question. Under some of the movement sensors when editing the entity you can see 'Show as' which has both 'Occupancy' and 'Presence' options. What are the differences between them please?

[winged knoll]

That's more a topic for #integrations-archived

[outer knot]

The topic of this channel is:

There's a channel for #yellow-archived if you have questions about it.

Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).

If you have problems with the Blue or your installation see #installation-archived.

If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.

Please use https://www.codepile.net/ or https://paste.debian.net/ to share code or logs

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[winged knoll]

You'll want to tell them more - what sensors?

[thorny holly]

Zigbee/zwave devices are often recommended here instead of WiFi devices for stability

(and security)

[rose zealot]

Just received my beelink. First time I will try HA. I plan to use HA, adguard and an alternative to Dropbox. I have never done that before. So any terminology might be new. Which is the preferred way to do it? With time, I might find another fun thing to install. But for now I have those 3 in mind

[golden thorn]

I recommend virtualizing: #hardware-archived message

[rose rain]

Anyone know of an integration that works with Govee H1 string lights? Seems like the Govee Local doesn't support it unfortunately

[native pilot]

I've got an FP2 and it works great for me, no issues with ghosting or anything since the recent firmware updates. How do the apollo units do around ceiling fans?

I'd love to have mmWave throughout my house (but not at 80 bucks a pop Aqara).

[slim lagoon]

Mine still ghosts way too often. Actually the Apollos are great with ceiling fans once you tune them in. At least the MSR-1/2. The MTR-1 still gets stuck on them sometimes.

[native pilot]

That's really helpful, thanks! I think I just am lucky with where I put the FP2, I think it would be a nightmare in other parts of my house but who knows. Hard to justify when you can get 2.5 of the apollos for the price

[slim lagoon]

Yeah, I had no real good places to put my FP2s. But can totally vouch for the Apollos. I'm actually going to order some more soon and replace my other mmWave sensors (except my one kitchen FP2).

[native pilot]

thanks again!

[potent patio]

Do you guys order stuff from AliExpress or do you steer away from them?

[slim lagoon]

Depends on what you're looking at and where in the world you are.

[potent patio]

Heh well hello @slim lagoon again. Right now. I'm looking at Shelly Button 1 to set up with quick button. I'm not ready to get on Zigbee yet. I been having too much fun since you made me get on HAOS it unlocked the door to rabbit hole

I got bunch of wifi stuff

[slim lagoon]

hahaha sure... blame me for your purchases... whatever. 😉

Ok, so Shelly... sure. Should be fine to purchase from AE.

[potent patio]

and do you know a module that can turn off and on the fan?

[slim lagoon]

Whhat kind of fan are we talking about?

[potent patio]

got a dumb harbor breeze light fan combo. I'd like to smartify it

[slim lagoon]

Ahhhh... get yourself a Sonoff iFan-04, flash ESPHome on it and shove it up into the canopy. Call it a day.

[potent patio]

I was just looking at it!! yup! i'm gonna do that

[slim lagoon]

Just make sure you have enough room in the canopy. I had to recently replace all my ceiling fans because the canopies wouldn't fit the controller.

[potent patio]

considering how big it is. That got me concerned

[slim lagoon]

That's why I said it 🙂

I always have a reason for the things I say... ;)

[potent patio]

Indeed

[cold moon]

the worst part about this is you cant test it without powering it into mains after flashing

i flashed mine but never "confirmed" it worked cuz it doesnt come online when not mains powered

[slim lagoon]

Oh, I solved that with a grounded outlet plug wired directly to it. Was it safe? Prolly not.

[potent patio]

You mean like you had a split wall plug to splice into it?

[slim lagoon]

Yup. 🙂 It worked. 0 out of 5 stars wouldn't recommend.

[potent patio]

Interesting.........

[cold moon]

well that would be to "test it"

[slim lagoon]

Yeah.. that

[cold moon]

you flash it via ftdi adapter cuz it has no usb port

it isnt connected to mains when you flash it just usb at 5volts

[slim lagoon]

(because honestly, I'm shit when it comes to flashing ESPHome)

[cold moon]

but then after flash the wifi chip isnt powered by usb

so it doesnt broadcast an AP or connect to lan like an esphome device usually would after getting flashed

but you just flash it like that once then you OTA update it over wifi

[potent patio]

Well yea i'm not gonna bother because I'm not rewire it again lol so that's on my to do list

[thorny holly]

Does anyone here use the jabra 410?

And if so, how do you get the white LED to stop blinking?

[knotty fern]

Are there any recommendations for a zigbee/zwave thermostat that works with a heat pump?

[thorny holly]

For zigbee check zigbee2mqtt, there's a list of devices that work more or less out of the box

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/

There are a bunch of thermostats listed on there, and the services you can call from home assistant are listed under them as well

[cold moon]

Why not ecobee Wi-Fi? Theyre popular and work with most heat pumps without an adapter https://www.ecobee.com/en-us/citizen/everything-youve-ever-wanted-to-know-about-heat-pumps-but-were-afraid-to-ask/

[bitter zenith]

Like this? https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/mtr-1-ImK/page/zone-configuration-using-hlkradartool-app

[slim lagoon]

Nah... the zone configuration between the MTR-1 and the FP2 are radically different. You can set x1/x2/y1/y2 coordinates in the MTR-1, but there are only 3 zones and it only gives you X/Y in the targets. So, LOTS of complicated math to figure out where someone is in a zone. While that's fine, until it can have more than 3 zones and a less complicated way of doing triangulation, the FP2 is going to win here. There are the simplified Zone-X All/Moving/Still Target Counts though that I have been playing with a bit.

Edit: Ohhhhh, ok. I see where you're going with this... do the zone config in the HLK tool and it should push the zone info directly to the MTR-1! I'll give it a shot!

[bitter zenith]

Exactly! It is very easy to set up zones in the HLKRadarTool App.

[slim lagoon]

I'm slow today... lol... BUT! Finally got my bedroom MSR-1 tuned to ignore my ceiling fan at 100%. PROGRESS!

[bitter zenith]

Happy to hear! Just curious, did you use our wiki or did you already have prior experience?

[slim lagoon]

Both along with a question in your discord. 😊

[slim lagoon]

The wiki is fantastic. I just had to really figure out the gate energies and then basically turn off g4-8 (I only want to track the bed and when I’m physically in it). But, when I’m there, I turn the ceiling fan to 100%. So, had some interesting tuning to do to both still detection and ignore movement of air from the fan.

[bitter zenith]

Great! That is what we are hoping for! A good wiki should help limit support questions. We are open to every and all suggestions!

[slim lagoon]

True plus it helps that you guys are really receptive and answer pretty quickly. Can’t do that with Aqara devs and engineers 💪

[bitter zenith]

https://tenor.com/view/sup-girl-eyebrows-gif-25755293

[slim lagoon]

@bitter zenith ok, so I have questions about the MTR-1 and the HLK tool. Want me to pop over to your discord?

Dropped into the #mtr-1 channel.

[cold terrace]

if you have mini splits the least stupid way I've found is to emulate the remote control

because OEM wifi control units are $$$

https://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Electric-PAC-USWHS002-WF-2-Wireless-Interface/dp/B07VBZRB8T

[patent river]

You can at least wire serial directly to Mitsi units. I think it's RS-485 (might be RS-422).

The unfortunate thing too is they have about a dozen models of WiFi adapters, and some of them have local control ("EchoNet Lite", which isn't the most amazing protocol, but at least is local), but others don't

Mine came with the "MAC-588IF-E" built in: https://www.mitsubishi-electric.co.nz/heatpump/i/69960/wi-fi-interface, which does have it

Oh also there are at least three different cloud services, depending on where you live in the world. That probably changes things too

[short portal]

Are AC controllers generally universal? The AC in my home has these pretty awful Tuya enabled wifi controllers, and they don't expose their fan speed to HA

I'd love to get something better if swapping them out is easy enough

[shell solstice]

@slim lagoon this is the one i have

could be a raspberry pi 4 but not sure

looks like its a 4 by having the two 3.0 usb ports

[jade goblet]

We replaced our ecobee with a Daikin one system. They don’t have the remote sensors, so now I’m kind of winging it. I considered remote sensors and making my own thermostat logic - any recommendations? I don’t have any kind of hub

There is an integration to control the stat - just looking for remote sensors

I’ve seen aqara mentioned I think

[patent river]

The Xiaomi Bluetooth ones work quite well, but Bluetooth is a little less elegant to integrate than Zigbee (which is what those Aquara sensors use)

[jade goblet]

So Bluetooth would require a dongle on my HASS server, right?

Not sure what the range is on this stuff

[patent river]

Well realistically both require some kind of external device; both of those can be either a USB dongle, or some kind of Ethernet-connected device (generally with an ESP32 inside)

There are the specific #zigbee-archived and #bluetooth-archived channels to ask about those

[jade goblet]

Interesting. Ideally just getting the data into MQTT is what I need

[patent river]

If you're starting from zero though, those aren't your only options. You can look into Z-Wave, LoRa, or a number of other RF options

[compact gale]

Yep, that's a Raspberry Pi 4. The Pi 5 also has two USB 3 ports, but the Ethernet is located on the left side on that vs the right on the 4.

[rich shuttle]

an other option is Ecowitt - I've had good success with their temp sensors (and weather stuff) and the sensors use a lower frequency that goes a decent distance (an issue for me).

[native pilot]

Anyone using smartwings cellular shades? Anything I should know about them? We have a handful of zwave shades from graber, but one of them just died around 6 months after the 5 year motor warranty ran out so I'm looking at alternatives. Serena would be ideal but $$$$$$$$$.

[sinful rover]

This might be a silly question... but I see a lot of people talking about TuYa. TuYa has their own hub from what I can tell... is the hub needed to use TuYa zigbee devices?

[compact gale]

Nope. Depending on the particular device, you should be use it directly with ZHA or Z2M without their hub

Not all devices are supported, mind you, but a good bunch are

[sinful rover]

I'm just paranoid about buying something only to find out I have to buy their hub & install their app to configure it

[compact gale]

If you wanna be sure, it's never a bad idea to drop a link and ask if it's compatible

[cold moon]

you should've seen lots of people suggesting NOT to buy tuya anything

[compact gale]

Eh, sometimes the Tuya Zigbee stuff isn't entirely bad

A bunch of the stuff from the $.99 for 3 section of the site does the job well enough. Very much a case of "you get what you pay for" but hey, it works

[cold moon]

i dont suggest or personally put any junk on my zigbee/zwave meshes

the tuya mmwave zigbee sensor sends 3x packets a second shitting on any mesh it's a part of

there arent any products that i would point to and say "oh tuya has a good version of that" lol

and that ignores all the "companies" that pay tuya to add their shit to their wifi app

just slap a sticker on it and mark it guaranteed!

[compact gale]

I've admittedly got lower standards, given money crunches

But I've been running some PIR sensors and button/knob combos via AliExpress and they've been functioning well

One of the sensors has shit build quality, but it works

[cold moon]

compared to like aqara for something like PIR i see no reason to save $5 and buy tuya instead

[compact gale]

Checking the Aqara prices rq...

Most of the sensors I'm talking about were like $3-4 apiece, compared to $14 apiece for a comparable Aqara sensor

Again, it's a "you get what you pay for" thing in some cases, but when they're next to nothing, that can be pretty significant

[cold moon]

i get it but tuya is just a bad word man

[compact gale]

Yeah, very much a dice roll in a bunch of cases

[runic vigil]

In my experience, ZigBee Tuya is much better than Wi-Fi ZigBee. I buy almost only cheap devices as @compact gale and have no problem on a daily basis. They even perform better than some pricer options (I have bad luck with Sonoff devices for instance).

[compact gale]

Oh yeah, definitely avoid WiFi Tuya at all costs lol

[cold moon]

well the zigbee developers in #zigbee-archived actively discourage buying tuya devices too (for anyone else listening)

[compact gale]

In that case , the Tuya stuff I've got will be stuff to replace when I have the funds in the as-of-now indeterminate future

[cold moon]

they break protocol and just push out w/e they want and then the zigbee devs have to create workarounds for each of those devices

[compact gale]

Oh yeah, no doubt about that

[sinful rover]

I'm just looking at zigbee2mqtt supported home thermostats. TuYa and Hive were the only names I recognised.

If TuYa are bad, that leaves me with Hive I think (I'm in the UK)... and I've heard mixed reports about Hive

[cold moon]

dont rule out zwave or wifi for thermostat. ecobee are very popular here (wifi). technically a cloud product but can be joined directly to home assistant over wifi via homekit protocol

[sinful rover]

Ideally I want one that doesn’t require a separate hub or app or cloud account to set up.

I don’t want to add z wave for this one device. WiFi would be ok.

[sudden kettle]

Hello all, i am trying to implement a solution where I want to check for space occupancy and sound level measuring in apartments. Anyone has experience in which sensors specifically would be the most usefull to use independently on the difficulty level of integration. I want to create a plaque from scratch with the specific sensors. Please let me know your ideas

[outer knot]

@sudden kettle Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[winged knoll]

Though, create from scratch sounds like you want to build your own?

[sudden kettle]

I am located in Greece but do not limit solutions available for greece, the budget is really depends on the capabilities of the sensor but a good estimate would be for each sensor not to cost more than 25 euros, I think I have to use Wifi because other protocols have distance limitations if i am not mistaken(Please let me know), for the sound level sensor I want to be able to use logic in order to understand the different noise scenarios inside a house's living room. For the Occupancy sensors/ or any human detection sensors(Without camera, also noise sensor without recording) I want to be able to detect that there is movement inside the room and if possible to detect the number of people inside the house's living room

[winged knoll]

There's no range problems with Zigbee, Z-Wave, or Thread since those are mesh networks

Simple movement - any PIR will do, like the Xiaomi Aqara sensors

mmWave is better for detecting presence, and you've got a range of options there including https://shop.everythingsmart.io/products/everything-presence-one-kit or https://www.screek.io/1u/ or others

PIR will be cheap, mmWave will cost more

[sudden kettle]

Has any of these sensors been used to identify the number of humans in presence inside a room?

[winged knoll]

Some of the mmWave ones support tracking multiple people, so ... sort of

The only accurate way though is likely to be a camera with object detection, but you could run that locally - no cloud