#hardware-archived
1 messages Ā· Page 54 of 1
I would cross check how it looks like without a vm to exclude the passthrough being faulty
Alternatively you probably have tried restarting haos already
That can help to figure out new hardware in some cases
Will check on the same Nuc with dedicated HA (without proxmox), more details tomorrow š
Anyone have any suggestions for home audio distribution - Right now I have 3 chromecasts with a breakoutbox > rca > onkyo receiver > main amplified zone + zone 2 amplified + zone 3 > amplifier ................ but the receiver crapped out. Receiver to do this seems overkill. I appreciate any discussions for distributing rca source audio or amplified copper to the speakers that can be switched with HA
wow, seems that my old laptop does not have UEFI boot mode...https://www.manualslib.com/manual/232516/Acer-Aspire-3750.html?page=44#manual
Ok, tested the Google Coral Usb stick again on the same Intel Nuc, powered usb3 hub. Homeassitant dedicated (no proxmox or whatever):
In advanced ssh (Homeassitant addon) i see the usb-device again: bus4, dev3.
But still not visible in Homeassitant->hardware->all hardware:
The Coral worked a few updates ago, no issues. So, something is changed and the Coral isnāt recognized anymore by Homeassistant.. Bug..
More people has the same problem:
After removing frigate full access and installing the default frigate: it works.
But still a HA-bug: the coral is not recognized 100%..
Can anyone confirm if a Honeywell ST55 Smart Thermostat can be paired with HA? I see mixed and old responses in the various forums, but the site doesn't have it listed as compatible.
If you were intending to run HAOS on it you're not out of luck, there are other ways to run it (VM, VM in Proxmox) or you can go with a Docker install.
good point, I gave up tbh. I doubt it has virtualization though?
I want HAOS so I can use addons
I guess I can try installing ubuntu and see if I can get virtualbox
You should probably try something kvm like instead
Virtualization should be a fairly standard feature for over two decades. You may need to enable it in your bios tho
the BIOS has like close to no options, smallest BIOS (in terms of options) I have seen
nothing about virtualization for sure
In that case you may just try out your luck
It'll complain if it's unavailable
You probably could also read out the capabilities list, might be easier before investing the time
i am using haos and a coral (m.2 e-key) and the coral is working for me. i would open an issue on github for haos if it's not a frigate issue
I got virtualbox installed and its starting up HAOS, I was thinking about virtualzation accellaration like VT-x and so on, it does not have that. But I guess virtualbox does not need it, but I do remember Hyper-V needed it
The aeotec z-wave stick 5 does not seem to be found. Trying to debug if it's drivers or to old USB or something š
Not found in Ubuntu
yea, very strange, plugging it into whatever usb slot, nothing happens. checking with usbview, not listed
any one here have exp w/ the gc9a01 lcd?
on my bread board it works w/ short wires
but when I attempt to use a 1 meter cable it doesnt seem to. the backlight lights up
but nothing else
Anyone have success wiping a Vera Plus or an ISY944 and installing HA on it? I have one of each actually and they both already have z-wave antennas so I was thinking it would be nice to reuse the hardware with software that works way nicer https://support.getvera.com/hc/article_attachments/360032997013/896478 https://www.universal-devices.com/finalbye994/ the ISY box especially, is end of support, but it has an ethernet port and a zwave antenna. could I use it somehow with an HA server running in the cloud, and provide access to my home's zwave and insteon networks using the isy hardware as a relay?
Came across this, not exactly main use as HA, but could be. But how viable is it to power something like this while traveling, like using a powerbank. How long could it last? Using 9v 3a adapter, so potentially a bit of power. https://shop.zimaboard.com/products/zimaboard-single-board-server
ZimaBoard is a low-cost single-board server designed for makers and geeks. Zimaboard has both the expandability of an x86 SBC and the appropriate power of a microserver. With ZimaBoard, you can setup a 4 Terabyte personal cloud in 5 minutes, configure a secure VPN to protect your digital footprint, tune your network with OpenWrt and pfSense, bui...
None of those would fit the minimum requirement
It's just math about capacity and power draw
I don't have one around to measure actual wattage, but the web says it does somewhere between 2.5 and 13w, so if we assume not a lot is going on 5w seems like a good number I suppose. On an average 25000mah/~100wh battery that may last less than 20 hours
Yea nice, good enough for a long car trip for sure š
But I have no idea what to do with the z-wave stick, aeotec one. Nothing is happening when plugging it into any usb port on my laptop with Ubuntu
Not showing as a device with commands to list them
If I factory reset it, will it wipe any z-wave network stuff if I restore from backup?
Like, is any network stuff stored on the stick, or all in HA?
#zwave-archived can help with that
Are you trying to have a HA server that you physically carry around near your body at all times? I road trip often. When I'm sitting in the car for more than 5 minutes, all of my devices are powered from the car. I've got two good USBC adapters that each give me a 100w and a 30w port. plus two USBA ports from the car itself w/ android auto. So I can keep a laptop fully operational and a few phones, and top up my mobile power bricks that I might bring on a hike. I've thought about getting a Pi to have an always-on car computer acting as a wifi router/proxy but haven't had the time to iron it out
Was more thinking about providing Plex or something for kids show on their pads
hmm interesting... thumbdrives on the ipads would get broken off, and their internal storage isn't enough for a library. bandwidth too much to stream them... yeah, taking a nas with you with its own wifi might solve that. I am fortunate to have unlimited data so I stream everything from my server in colo but that does fall apart when we're on the open road and data rates go to shit
It might be neat to set up a mirror of some of my server to a car pc that lives in my car's trunk, sync's when its parked at home. with a couple relatively cheap sata ssds one could get 8tb at low power. I've got >100tb allocated at the colo but i suppose not all of that i need to back up, but most of the bulk is movies though and that's what you're wanting mobile right? Getting that capacity lower power or more compact than sata ssd is gonna get slow (uSD card) or expensive (nvme)
Have you considered giving your children books? Or perhaps, (watch out, craxy idea ahead) talking with them during the car ride or encouraging them to look out the windows? I've been pleasently surprised at the scenery before when I looked up from my laptop in yellowstone for instance.
Crazy idea yea 𤣠that will come with age, right now a bit hard to keep conversations and to keep occupied for hours without pads
Thinking about replacing my RasPi 2B HA machine with something else and was thinking about trying out RISC-V
Kinda curious if it would run reasonably well
I figured it out, the cable was too long
all good now
anyone around with a Shelly Floodsensor?. I am seeing some unexpected behavior on the flood binary (wont trigger....)
and the shelly itself shows Flood!:
Not sure if i recall jorg having one of those
I don't have those sensors but have you tried updating the firmware and performing a factory reset?
yes, I did update to latest, but connection is very flakey. Sole remedy seems to be to reconnect from within Unifi network , rather than via the 'visit' link i HA device panel
Very weird
seems the update didnt stick, I can click Update still... hope it will succeed now, because this has to be a 100% reliable connection in my cellar...
that worked, and the device is much more responsive.
however, the binary does Not trigger on Flood at all (the Shelly interface itself is also a bit slow, and the Flood! is displayed some time after it starts beeping, in 50% of the detections...). Ha never shows 'on' though, which is a bummer
battery also went down from 100% to 60% in the last hour... believe this needs to be returned.
Hi guys, I have a ZigBee lamp from IKEA (jetstrƶm). I am now facing the problem what to do with the wall switch. It was a dimmer before so totally useless now. There is a switch from Busch Jaeger with zigbee green power (friends of hue) but there is a lot ongoing on GitHub about this and I don't understand if it's supported.
Any idea on how to replace the wall switch?
Anyone recognise the problem of having to reconnect tradfri motion sensors after changing the battery.
A new firmware upgrade "could" fix this.
How do make sure I dont have to reconnect everytime or how do I push this firmware update
If you use zha, it should Update it ota
ooh, those look pretty cool!
I'll have to look into those.
Im using zigbee2mqtt
I just got my box3 and installed the voice assistant via https://esphome.io/projects/index.html but it won't connect to the wifi. The projects webpage didn't let me configure one like it does on empty esphome projects, and I conntected to the fallback ap but 192.168.4.1 doesn't load
the webpage does let me see logs, and I saw this line when connecting to the fallback ap with my phone: esp_netif_lwip: DHCP server assigned IP to a station, IP is: 192.168.4.2. Unfortunately trying .2 didn't connect either
oh I see, that's the ip of my phone on the fallback ap
I'm not sure how sending commands in the console on the projects page works. Nothing seems to happen
based off this recommendation I did try other connections, to no avail: https://www.home-assistant.io/voice_control/troubleshooting_the_s3_box/#the-wi-fi-dialog-never-shows-after-the-installation
Found this guide which mentioned plugging the usb into the monitor instead of the dock. Did that, same result https://www.home-assistant.io/voice_control/s3_box_voice_assistant/
I notice when connecting the console shows this:
question, my instance has outgrown my 3b+ node red just keeps crashing, would I be better off buying an orangepi3B 8gb for £47ish or a 5070 thin client J5005 8gb for £57
ideally neither
well folks, back from tripping over an ESP32-POE and i think, if i could... id like to use several of these devices rather than the original idea of using 1 with a multiplexer to monitor a bunch of reed switches.
BUT, had a quick question if anyone happens to know: Could I (without adding additional resistors) monitor several reed switches AND a motion sensor (or two) with a single ESP32? (call it, 4 reed switches and 2 motion sensors per device... doable?)
a used mini pc would be a better "upgrade" vs a thin client and should be available for a similar cost
of the 2.. the 5070
nah they're double
idk eu pricing
so far I've been happy with my yellow. It is a bit slow updating esphome devices though.
Reed switches yes certainly, motion sensor we'd have to know the specific comm. protocol to say. I assume yes, but don't want to guarantee it.
oh, thats fair... motion is simple for me: PIR
as a simple switch
or... not exactly a simple switch
oh hmm, this could be better if the ram is upgradable https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285725344503
I was just trying to put the ewaste that is thinclients to some use
yes James, that would be perfect. i used one of those for a while. still have a bunch deployed under hard use for like, 10 years now
what is that, Sycamore Recycling?
i think you guys in the uk are getting resells we sold like 3 years ago,...
OH, if that 5070 has the second RJ45 connector, it would make a fantastic sub-gig gateway running PfSense (or, running on a gig-lan as a router)
without the second, you could run it as a router/DHCP server/DNS resolver....
oh, ill be SO relieved to scale down from RPi Zero Ws doing this to something a little more the right tool for the job.
so, i assume, with a little esphome-fu, theres no reason i couldnt monitor each switch hooked from GPIO to switch to ground, right? And then monitor a gpio for input from the PIR sensor. Do i have that right? or right-ish? or am i way off and missing something in the middle thats essential?
Hi. Looking for door sensors that don't look like ass. Prefer zigbee but I'm not opposed to bthome or the like, just that I'd need to setup a proxy.
Cheaper the better but also not wanting big ugly things. Was looking at probably just one of the tuya zigbee on Ali express. I don't use tuya zigbee so don't know if they're the same rep as tuya cloud
the Tuya Zigbee 3.0 ones are fine for me (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804592931453.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.16631802raPYMB&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
other folks like the aqara ones
Looking at the ecobee I hate cloud stuff but looks like I can run it via homekit locally. Need to run a heat pump and gas furnace, I've only found the t6 pro honeywell and the ecobee can do aux heat.
I run a T9 via HomeKit Controller. Youād have to block its internet access to make it local only though.
I left mine online for weather information
yeah, I mainly want it to work locally.
Are you talking about the Sensi thermostat?
I donāt see or know of a Honeywell ST55 stat.
that was the other one I was looking at. we went to a slimline condensor on the side yard because we widened the property to allow parking there. Right now it's just setup as a condensor but I think I will replace the coil in the fall and let it do dual fuel.
How do you guys deal with smart lights? Since they can turn themselves on/off as well as change bulb colors, do you just hardwire it and disable the old light switch or are there some "smart switches" that do not cut off electricity to the smart bulb and only tell the bulb to turn itself off?
if improv is failing then you won't get the option to add to wifi. you can manually add the device yaml to the ESPHome dashboard and upload it this way, with your wifi credentials. I created a thread earlier for a post you made in #voice-assistants-archived if you need to go through the process I am happy to help. please reply in the thread https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1211158327027961896
Plenty of people likely just leave the switching as is. They commonly turn on at the last setting / some full brightness default when power is restored.
Alternatively there are smart switches as well as diy switch relays which can act as input only without actual switching power
While the second option is more elegant it's may not necessarily be easy to install depending on your region as well as the downsides of manually having to turn off power in Software to safely replace a bulb
Well, in order to safely replace bulbs, I just power off the mains rather than relying on the switch
So that's not an issue
I searched and found something called decoupled mode. Which should do what you described. But it seems to be quite expensive and not guaranteed to work reliably.
Do ZigBee devices have issues to re-create the network mesh after a power outage?
Or does it usually recover fine as if nothing had happened
Not quite sure, this seems to be not too expensive of a feature on the diy relays
For mesh recovery it depends on the device that tries to connect to an unavailable node
Certain battery powered ones might not switch over that easily but something like a hue lamp tends to not be bothered by this
hey folks, I'm from Canada but live in Spain and we are having our apartment renovated. The electrical system is a bit weird to me here, so generally they don't have neutral wires running to the light switches, which limits which smart switches I can use. Since we are doing a reno I am going to ask the electrician to put a neutral in each light switch. I guess my question is, does I only need a single neutral line run to the switch? Like...generally in canada you'd have a neutral going into the switch, then back out to the light. But since the switches here don't use neutral, i'm wondering if a single strand of neutral is enough? like neutral in, but not going back to the light
idunno if that makes sense
i think i can answer my own question by looking at some of these zigbee smart switch module/boxes, which have a spot for L-in/L-out/N/S-1
hmm but some have N-in and N-out
damnit, now im hungry for In N Out (West Coast US burger chain)
is there a way to dynamically change the upate_interval of an esphome device?
I have a hallway with a couple of toggle switches (each of them can manually switch on/off the light). i mounted a switchbot to one of those switch, so i can do that from homeassistant - everything works, but of course there's no feedback, whether the light is on or off now.
I mounted an esphome with an light sensor, now i can reliably see whether it's light or dark (where the sensor is mounted, it only gets light from the lights, so it works fine).
No i'm adding scripts to my template light to switch the toggle switch - i'd like to boost the update_interval to 100ms or every second, when i expect it to change, and leave it on ~60s otherwise...
why not use a reed switch?
there a three switches, and each one can be flipped up or down. When any of them is toggled, the light toggles.
So i'd need to put a reed switch on every switch, which i don't want...
ah
it get's complicated by that, as i might need to toggle the switch the switchbot is mounted on two times to switch the light, but i'm sure i can manage that. almost working already
honestly, when i came across that situation in my house, i eliminated it...
and i did... in several places for some weird reason. (the previous owner was a fan of needlessly WAY overcomplicating something for the sake of doing stupid shit)
not a super great idea, BUT... you could, in theory, flash tasmota to a smart bulb and set it up then lock it from resetting itself... then home assistant can tell you if the light is on or off just by existing or not
call it schrodingers light?
you might be able to accomplish the same via ESPHome but i do not know ESPHome as well as i know tasmota and do not know how to accomplish it there
yeah, that might work as well. i got my solution (with light sensor) working
(In fact, it's rather easy: i defined a template light, with a
value_template: "{{ states('sensor.flurehome_bh1750_illuminance') | int > 100 }}"
- that way, when the light sensor receives >100 lux, the light is deemed to be on.
plus two scripts on the template light to turn it on/off by toggling the switchbot...)
it's a rental flat, i won't be able to make too big of modifications
you could probably make a script in the esphome config to do a manual update every 60s , set the device to update every 100ms but use the switch action to call a component.suspend so it doesnt update with the interval. then when the switch is on it triggers component.resume and uses the 100ms update and starts the update interval. not sure if it would work but it does in my head. have a look at the docs here alternatively ask the guys in https://discord.com/channels/429907082951524364/429907082955718657
That doc link looks like what I'm searching for; thanks. The discord link is unavailable for me
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
smart light would be your best bet then... 0 intrusion
with you saying "flat" im assuming youre not in the US...
If im wrong, PM me your address, ill mail you a spare bulb youre welcome to keep
Thanks, but you're right - i'm from Germany.
This did the trick. My ESPHome has now 2 services and can switch update_frequency with them. Thank you!
I bought a SkyConnect (zigbee) and Aeotec 700 for Zwave. Problem - they are both Silicon Labs CP210x UART Bridge (10c4:ea60) - so I can't pass both through to HA. Is there a workaround for this?
Why not? What are you using to virtualize? Or what else do you mean with passthrough?
I'm virtualizing HA on unraid. HA sees them as one device
I read that I could plug them into a USB controller and plug that into the host PC... but can't find that refernce again
Try ls -l /dev/serial/by-id and ls -l /dev/serial/by-path. You can also create udev rules to differentiate them.
I see what you are getting at, I was hping they would have different IDs or paths but it seems like the OS only recognizes one of them
I'd check lsusb -vt but HAOS' version of it is š©
lol, thank you for the ideas. I don't want to have to hack to much to get this to work... mostly because in a year I will forget what I did. Going to stick to my critical zwave devices for now, will see what the future holds for matter/thread
short on USB ports anyways
USB hubs are cheap š
I had one but it went missing. Honestly would rather run HA on bare metal pi or something, I think that would solve the issue right?
I really don't think this has anything to do with virtualization.
maybe the usb port you used isnt hotswap and you arent even seeing the second stick
It could be an unraid issue. No port mapping options
I am trying to troubleshoot an issue with two of my USB devices having the same hardware IDs and It will not like my Home Assistant VM start. I have checked out the this Forum and found someone with a similar issue with the error message "operation failed: mutliple USB devices for 1a86:55d4, Use ...
My vm definition XML is a little different but I think I see the problem, will hack on it when I get a chance
depending on your mobo, you can split up and passthru usb ports from your mobo and give those to the VM instead
In case anyone is interested in decompiling to potentially make a wireless method of installing custom firmware here's the firmware dump for the Vont SLB04 - RCWV1 (Otherwise known as the Vont Smart Bulb Color Pro ) (It is known to have an ESP32c3 Mini)
Looking at accessories to the rpi5, I came across this. How is this not a scam? Insane sizes and prices on external SSDs
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eyw3gE1
It is in fact a scam
It's pretty simple. Otherwise, you can pass the entire USB controller, but then it's not available to the host anymore.
Hi guys, I would like to use a remote in my car to control a few things. As simple as it sounds, I can't figure out what to use. Anything phone-related is out, as I need something independent to leave always in the car, give to guests, wife,.... Zigbee doesn't seem to work, as when I leave the house for a couple of days, the remote can't reconnect easily. RF seems too unsafe. Are there better options?
Hey team, a few years back I'd done a small amount of home automation stuff; shelly switches, smart bulbs, alexa
Since then I've moved house and looking to build out a bigger more integrations, lights, switches, AC, climate, ...
So i'm looking for any general advise for what protocols/ecosystems to look out for
Specifically, Matter and HA Voice are new topics since I was last in this space
On the Matter front, it doesn't look like I should specifically look for Matter devices right? if I find some on Zigbee thats fine, and another few on WiFi that's also fine since it's HA that connects them all anyway, is that right?
Hello community !
please read my topic. maybe someone can help me )
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/immergas-boiler/695724
Hello community ! My goal is to control my boiler with HA i hope professionals in this this forum will help me to achieve this. Boiler model : Immergas EOLO STAR 24 3 E As i researched i found that this boiler has a remote controller option (CRD), also i found that it connects to boiler over 2 wires, that mean that it uses power and some prot...
Anyone have any recommendations for vibration sensors?
US based
Budget should be reasonable, probably $100/per or less (at that price point Iād expect it to be magic)
Zigbee or Z-Wave only. Either one will do.
Only feature I care about is vibration sensing. If it can do other stuff, thatās cool too.
I know Aqara has one, but looking at possible alternatives.
I bought a rpi5, and a HatDrive Top by Pineberry, I'm missing two parts from the HatDrive, the ssd spacer and the gpio header. The spacer I can figure out, but which header goes there exactly? The seller hasn't responded for like a month
You could try the Zooz Tilt/Vibration Sensor. I don't have one, but I do own a lot of their switches and plugs and they have been flawless.
yeah i'm sure a zooz one is a decent option but i have heard the aqara ones work fine
Perhaps the wrong place to ask (I've not looked at this discord as thoroughly as I should); I've tinkered with HA for a few years now I have a pieces across seemingly every brand and ecosystem for one purpose or another... does anyone have a recommendation for a brand that offers a power strip with not just smart outlets but also smart usb ports? the only ones Ive found are pretty off brand; which is fine I just dont wanna miss a better option.
Is this still the best place to discuss cameras?
I swear it was called #frigate last time I was here, has there been some changes?
No, #cameras-archived is the best place to discuss cameras
There's never been a #frigate
Are there any troubleshooting steps to check if an ESP32 bluetooth proxy is working correctly and in active mode?
#bluetooth-archived would know
has anyone here work with raspberry pi zero w for live streaming??
Likely significantly lacks compute to encode and send video at reasonable framerates
This sounds a lot like a #diy-archived question tho
Anyone running a smart (not shart) shower from Home Assistant? Currently looking at Kohler and Moen
Anyone know of any cheaper alternatives to the Coral TPU?
Depends on what you'll be using it for, but mostly no
Frigate and Double-Take with facial and object detection on mid end hardware
Oh shame, guess I'll have to hunt for one when the price settles : (
They are $25 or $35 from reputable sites (Amazon isnāt a reputable site)
the USB one is more like 80 by now
Boards are down about £25 to £35 here, and sticks about £65 to £80
We're just talking about this in #installation-archived
I havenāt kept up I thought there were just resellers scalping
I want to use an ESP32 as a bluetooth proxy. I flashed it successfully using the ESPHome site and then continued following their setup 'wizard' to connect it to HA. I now see the device (and two entities). All good. However, when I go into the ESPHome interface in HA, it shows as discovered, with the option to 'ADOPT'. Can I safely ignore that (since it seems to be already integrated into HA)? Or did I screw something up? Should I 'adopt' it via ESPHome in HA?
I'd maybe try restarting the addon and see if that goes away.
I think I saw something like that once when I changed the name during setup, and it still thought the old name of the device was like an unintegrated separate esp. Don't recall exactly.
Oh interesting. Thanks will try that. Cheers!
I think itās mdns related
Like if your yaml has the same name/hostname it wonāt need to adopt it
Anyone ever have a smart lock that struggled to unlock but everything else was good?
Just got a brand new weiser zwave 5 lever lock for my garage door. It locks completely fine, and is in my HA, but struggles and gets stuck when trying to unlock, even with the door opened and no pressure on the latch. I reinstalled it twice and tried fresh batteries, both lithiums and alkalines (separately). Even took it apart and put it back together.
Any ideas before I call their customer service tomorrow?
if you have installed via the web installer, the device will be configured to automatically adopt into the ESPHome dashboard. Although the device is in HA in the integration and working, if you wanted to edit the device config, or view logs etc then you can adopt the device into the dashboard and it will give you that functionality. The HA Add-on (Dashboard) is completely independent and not required for devices to work it is a platform to allow you to easily create custom firmware and to manage those configs. (hope that made sense ) š
That made perfect sense and is exactly the distinction I needed to understand. Thank you SO much! Have a great night (or day)!
your're welcome š
Hello everybody! I am new to the whole smart home thing and i want to automate heating in my appartment. I want to use some off the shelf TRVs and create automations that turn the TRVs on and off as well as my boiler. What are the parameters i can read from a TRV in order to do this? ideally i would like to read the valve position (e.g. 0-100%) but i am not sure if there are TRVs on the market that provide that info. The plan was to turn ne boiler on, as a TRV valve opens above a threshold and shut it down if it goes below a threashold. I can not to buy a bunch of them and test them as my budget is limited... Any hints on a TRV that would work with my plan?
Sounds overly complicated
Why not track the temperature in the room(s) and use that to determine if you need heat or not?
hmm... okay, then i would need external temperature sensors in all my rooms. also the setpoint for a thermostat will always be higher than the room temperature, some thermostats compensate for this, others dont
the main thing i want to do is shut down my boiler once all the thermostats are off. I maybe could do that if all thermostats have lower set points than actual temperature.
The TRVs are also temperature sensors (if not great ones)
i can try different approaches, i just want a thermostat that does not limit me in any way and if i need a senor value (like valve position) and i cannot get that from the thermostat, i will be sad š
Very few/none report that
is there some database on which device can report what?
No
I need to replace a couple of sensors that detect the luminescence. I use this so lights donāt go on when itās brilliant sunshine. What devices are you using to detect luminescence? I prefer it would be Zigbee , rather than Zwave
Most use lux sensors built into a pir sensor like the hue or aqara ones
I was looking at the one from Aqara but the note said the luminescence was not exposed in HomeKit. I donāt mess around with HomeKit but I thought that if it wasnāt in HomeKit, maybe it wouldnāt be in HA also.
Donāt assume that
Integrate your Aqara RTCGQ14LM via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
always look at the product page in z2m (even if you use zha)
if it's not exposed in zha but is in z2m that just means z2m currently has support for it and zha will need a quirk. ask the nerds in #zigbee-archived if you run into that down the road
also you can pretty much ignore anything on the box that says something works with homekit, alexa, or google home
that's assuming you use their bullshit proprietary bridges with those things built in, not cool kid shit like home assistant
sorry, Iām completely ignorant and coming from homeseer for 30 years. Absolutely love HA for sure. Second week and still doing wonderfully. what is ZHA and Z2M?
it's an either or, you pick one
OK I got it. Iām using ZHA right now and itās working great.
i.e. you have ikea bulbs, hue bulbs, aqara door sensors, and all three of them can be added to one mesh
i try not to link zha vs z2m cuz it's all outdated/wrong/bad advice
Oh I didnāt realize that! Thanks; deleting that message.
i'll look at the link to confirm it's something i wouldnt share
Ease of Setup and Use
ZHA is generally considered easier to set up, especially for beginners. It has a wizard that guides you through configuration. Zigbee2mqtt can be more complex to set up because you require a separate MQTT broker.
fair but doesnt really matter, you follow a guide
Compatibility and Support
ZHA supports more devices out of the box than Zigbee2mqtt. However, Zigbee2mqtt has a community-driven database that adds support for many other devices.
Zigbee2mqtt is more frequently updated to add new device support. But ZHA is directly integrated into Home Assistant so can receive updates along with it.
wrong, wrong, wrong
both z2m and zha support all the things. whether or not they have support baked in or need a quirk / need specific things "added" is another story.
z2m is not more frequently updated nor would it matter if it was
Reliability and Stability
Zigbee2mqtt is highly stable and many users report rock solid performance. The separation from Home Assistant helps isolate issues.
Some ZHA users have experienced stability issues and found devices to become unavailable. But recent updates have improved reliability greatly.
wrong, wrong wrong
both are stable if you buy the right coordinator, use the right devices, pick the right channel, minimize interference, blah blah
Flexibility and Customization
Zigbee2mqtt offers more flexibility for power users. You can finely configure options and integrate it with other systems using MQTT.
ZHA provides integration out of the box with Home Assistant, however advanced customizations may be more difficult compared to Zigbee2mqtt.
this was written by ai and doesnt even make sense
Resource Usage
Zigbee2mqtt requires running an additional service so uses a bit more resources like memory and CPU. But itās relatively lightweight.
ZHA runs natively on Home Assistant so it has lower resource demands, however large Zigbee networks can still slow down the system.
also wrong wrong wrong
lol
this was another mistake, its only a Rx (reciver it doesnt transmitt)
iāve been really happy with Zigbee everywhere. over the last two weeks I have replaced 28 Insteon devices. also replaced another 8 Zwave devices. The Zigbee devices just plugged in and worked immediately and have continued to work.
cool
zha has some "quality of life" improvements such as it auto scans and chooses the best channel for you with the least interference
with all that being said, i much prefer z2m
i may have wasted a ton of time trying to make my home assistant speak with the 433mhz suff around the house, but atlest i found out i can check my tires pressure on the winter stored tires and the ones on the car, which means i can register when the car arrives at home:
@tawny viper has made a new integration using mqtt and might be worth looking into
thanks, still working on. trying to get the old add-on team to stop maintaining two projects....
plans to improve it more and more, but the current person works for drupal
so not the most reasonable lol
yea, i found an rtl stick, I'll add it to the crap i'm sending you
integration is good though, wont discover tire sensors by default, Have a nice config file, (which you can use with any https://github.com/catduckgnaf/rtl_433_ha)
has anybody got a 3-D printer file for adapting the Sonoff NSPanel to a two gang switch box. The older NSPanel with 2 buttons portrait (verticle) Im going to make one from scratch as I want to put probably 10 or so around. US Version=
you'll have much better luck searching on printables, thingiverse, etc or the hass forums
Iām gonna look again on all of those, but didnāt find one that would work. Lots of European versions and lots of pro versions.
The amount of time I spent looking, I couldāve probably finished designing it
running out of memory trying to install the addon, dont know why.
well i say that but this might be it
Because it builds some C code and you apparently don't have enough memory for that. How much memory do you have?
2gb
increased it to 4gb and it still has the exact same error
but it doesnt run out of memory
Morning All, Just looking for a bit of advice if anyone could help out please? - Currently running on a Nuc with a Intel Celeron N2830 @ 2.16GHz - and 4GB RAM (ProxMox) - Wondering if would benefit from upgrading to a Pi 5 ?
Even a Pi4 would be faster than that Celeron
You could rather invest the money into a different sff pc
While old, the performance difference between both the current and a pi would be fairly minor besides the pi lacking most accelerator capabilities
Tbf its more I do have a Pi 5 in my draw and was juggling between using that or investing in a new Nuc .... last time I used a Pi i popped a Sd card in and you can imagine how fast that ended up corrupting.
Pi5 + SSD should be a step up, if you already have that
I just dont have the SSD yet ... But I do want to look at incorperating frigate in as well so im on boundary of investing in a NUC if you think the Pi5 would struggle ?
Yeah, for Frigate buy a decent SFF PC
Any particular ones known to work well
Check up the channel history, plus the history of #installation-archived - this gets covered pretty much every other day
Usually suggesting HP or Dell, but others too
Roger, will look at Dell since usually my go to for NUC
i see HP/HPE, i reee
either lenovo m910q or similar on ebay used or buy a brand new n100 based mini pc like the beelink ones
Does anyone have a recommendation for decent/good smart fans (table fan), which are not dyson? I do not want to sell a kidney to buy one š
hmmm. Thanks. Let me look into
@cold moon can you try simply installing it? does it work for you.
@deep coral what hardware?
yea,
most updated version of HA on a virtual machine running it.
I just tested again in my test VM, installed fine. not sure why its not compiling.
should take this to #add-ons-archived and if you want make an issue on github.
well i it was the last straw for me, i gave up on HA xD i spendt to much time on this, Athom Homey Pro instead. this was tiney compared to the others but i just cant anymore...
sorry
not your fault
you are not only one frustrated with rtl_433, hence why I am trying to make it better, š
it was mostly the nortech stick that i used 200 hours figuring outs fault
just to find out that the US and EU version was different
all because telldus stoped working
there realy needs to be a "HA shop" with everything flashed with the correct firmware
to be fair i was warned multiple times on video guides that its heavy on the programing, i just cant do it anymore when i saw the sonof needed something to flash the firmware and this issue came up at the same time i gave up.
Ok so you bought a really old shitty stick for zigbee and zwave, are using ancient tech like RF 433, and your takeaway is that itās home assistantās fault?
If youāre willing to put in the time and learn and ask questions before buying you canāt beat home assistant
i bought what was "recommended" by the most popular youtube videos on HA. when i didnt have 500 hours of trying to learn HA
To be fair, that the stick is bad for Zigbee and Z-Wave isn't obvious, and many people out there recommend utter shite
I'd treat any youtube recommendation with caution until verified - plenty of popular people wouldn't know their ass from their elbow
well yeah... except even using the correct wording "transiver" gets you the wrong things... because sellers just put it in the description even though some things are laterally only recivers.
and most the stuff i can buy in my country are bought on Ebay or not at all
has anyone got one of these sort of things? seem really inexpensive and have potential - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006335587633.html no idea if it would be usable by esphome (i'm going to assume not)
It might depending on what touch screen controller they put in there.
Any recommendation for Smoke Detectors?
- Budget: not a static budget, I want good smoke detectors.
- Country: Netherlands
- Protocols: I have Zigbee, Z-Wave and Wifi. No preferation, whichever suits the best for Smoke detectors
- Wishes: I'd rather have them in battery (including battery monitoring in HA, but I think that's pretty common)
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor pair with your favorite dumb smoke co detectors
SAFE ALERTS PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Ā Beta ReleaseĀ Ā Ā This device may not be fully integrated with your hub at the time of purchase. You may need to update the firmware of the device after the purchase. QuickĀ reports to your hubĀ forĀ low-voltage trigger signals, including interconnected hard wired smoke and CO detectors by al
Thank you, but to be honest: I really need new Smoke Detectors as well, since these are way too old. Might as well go with new detectors on one of the earlier named protocols, right?
I thin you misunderstood. My current (dumb) detectors need to be replaced. Not being made smart
And the new ones, I'd like them to be smart
My current detectors are probably 20 years old
I know
Well this is the best route
I didn't want to spend the money on "smart" detectors, particularly because of the expiration date and high failure rates in general.
Otherwise you have to buy all smart smoke detectors instead of just one sensor
Besides the fact that i "recently" bought the house, but well
But whatever lol
Kidde sells a relay designed to connect a strobe or buzzer for blind/deaf; connected that to a Shelly. Keeps the whole life/safety part UL rated.
What I linked is the new model
Replaces the diy thing
Nvm misread
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-kidde-diy-smart-smoke-alarm-kit thought you meant this
SIMPLE ALERTS We put together this simple solution forĀ smart monitoring of your existing smoke alarms to make your life easier and safer. Just connect the 3 pigtail wires to the last smoke alarm in series, add the Zooz relay to your Z-Wave hub, and receive status notifications in the app whenever any of your smoke alar
Yeah, that's the relay model I used.
Appeal of that route is it eliminates any concern that the modifications can alter/impact the effect of the smoke alarms from a liability and insurance standpoint.
Yeah; but it requires connecting a non-certified piece of equipment to life/safety equipment.
Battery only i would only buy these zcombo units
No, it doesnāt
I like the concept, it's just the what-ifs that kill it for me.
Of course it attaches to romex in the wall - the third wire is the transmit between each of the interconnected alarms.
iirc, that interconnect is low voltage as well. It's conceivable that some defective/misconfigured/whatever hardware could cause an issue with that. Would prefer to keep everything designed to keep me alive UL and brand certified to work all the time.
Actually if you look up UL they self certify and make up the rules
What I linked is ETL certified aka passed all UI certification but done by third party
Almost sounds better 
And again, youāre overthinking this and anyone else that stumbles upon this: youāre fine.
@tawdry basin the zcombo battery first alert is what Iād suggest if you absolutely need battery only devices
Thank you, will look into it. Appreciate it!
check your local fire code to make sure non-interconnected smokes are code tho
You do you. Have fun with insurance if there's an issue - which they're probably won't be.
I have a Zen55 connected, works fine, test monthly
I think code here in Canada requires a hardwire interconnect now for new construction.
I believe Canada and us are pretty much on par with new build but not positive
Probably needs a French sticker here.
non-interconnected smokes are great for augmenting your current interconnected smokes tho
Ya I only have two interconnect, bottom and top of stairs in Texas 1980 build
At some point Iāll go in the attic and run a bunch of romex
Is code to have one in each bedroom now? 2001 build, and we have 1 in each hallway + kitchen and basement.
The first alert ones I just bought have a very detailed map and things to decide before placement
In every bedroom, outside every bedroom in open space, stairs, etc etc etc
Then thereās limits like if thereās a big open area outside bedroom you might need more than one
Just start using them as a ceiling covering instead of paint.
Iād look it up and plan it out
Ok, stupid question here: what does interconnect mean with Smoke Detectors?
When I was replacing mine, I was surprised to hear other folks balking at the high prices of Nest until I realized how many they were buying. I have one upstairs and one downstairs in my house built in the 80s
Why didnāt you ask when I suggested them lol
when one goes off, they ALL go off
I have 10 in a 5br house
That sounds loud.
And need to put a couple more in
I bought the fancy battery ones that yell out the location of the alarm
Because I was still focussed on getting the right hardware in my house. My bad
It shouts out āalert alert fire in master bedroomā
ya my daughters prefer the ones that talk
I wonder if the room-identifying ones also work with a wired interconnect. Probably too dumb.
Yea they have them but they donāt share data iirc
Theyād all go off but I assume each would say their own area
they just say "emergency emergency smoke detected" or "<same thing> CO detected"
Has anyone else had issues with Inovelli fan switches lately? Mine go unavailable sometimes, but they usually come back after a restart. They refuse to come back as of a couple days ago
Presumably you mean Inovelli Blue Zigbee switches? I haven't, but there have been several firmware updates recently, including today to v1.07
I suggest posting in #zigbee-archived or #zwave-archived depending on what device you're talking about
interference goes brrr
Yeah, exactly. I was hoping the firmware today would fix them but it hasn't
The odd thing is I have Blue Zigbee light switches right next to them that are flawless
But yeah I'll move it to the other channel
the entire mesh is good just not the fan switches?
Yep
like you have 20+ devices all working fine not just a handful?
All 3 fan switches specifically are the only ones
41 devices connected via Z2M
@echo coral had issues with his inovelli blue switches recently but ended up being interference related and he wiped it away and chose a better channel. it would sure suck if it ended up being inovelli fw related lol
err maybe it was issues (after) adding the fan switches not the blue switches
anyways ya share logs w/e in #zigbee-archived
Can anyone recommend a simple thermometer with display that works well with HA?
Background: we just installed heat pumps, and we no longer use our Nest thermostats which told us the temp in the room. Now we control the 3 mini-split wall units with handheld remotes that just tell the wall unit what the desired temp is but have no feedback about current temp. I can build something with ESP32 stuff if I need to, but want to consider buying something if it is reasonably priced as I already have 2 other ESP32 projects for my new HA and the heatpumps.
https://cloudfree.shop/product/ductless-hvac-wi-fi-module/ you might be able to use this or similar and make those ductless mini splits smart
Alternative is an IR transmitter to mimic the remote
The Mitsubishi units I have do not have a USB port. The two projects I'm building now are:
https://github.com/daniloc/ThermTerm (which does display the current temp)
and
https://github.com/dzungpv/mitsubishi2MQTT
Thereās a specific Mitsubishi one to buy
Pro tip: add extra info before people try to help
This might do it https://cloudfree.shop/product/xiaomi-mijia-bluetooth-temperature-and-humidity-sensor/
@tacit burrow set up his Mitsubishi one
These are cheap and work fine I have 4 of them
You may need a Bluetooth Roxy for those
Mine is cloud based with no apparent local api. So sucketh
when you were buying it a dude came in here and schooled us
and you were buying a thing
and he said make sure you buy X and not Y
you bought Y huh?
Iād like to try a replacement dongle some day
too lazy to search and find it
Iād already ordered one, and needed ānowā more than ārightā. Still future project
points to lyricnz and says class dont do what he did
Does anyone here live in an apartment/flat? Have you managed to get some sort of smart intercom? The original one is broken + I hate having a literal phone on a wall - I'd rather have a flat panel with speaker/microphone and some buttons. But if it's possible for it to have ZigBee/z-wave or literally anything that could enable me to notify HA about the ring bell being pressed, I'd definitely go the smart route.
(it's a 4 wire 4+n intercom)
This is the closest thing I had found. Note that I don't need to modify an existing device. I'd rather just replace it for something new and smart (if it exists)
https://community.smartthings.com/t/integrating-pacific-3404-4-wire-door-intercom-system/174721
Well there is this thing from Ring I once read about. No experience:
Is there a good wifi or zigbee light switch (Z2M) with this form factor? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-dimmable-Incandescent-Single-Pole-AYCL-153P-WH/dp/B006UTQCA2/ref=sr_1_9
The Ariadni LED+ dimmer provides optimal dimming performance of LED bulbs. This dimmer works with up to 150-Watt of dimmable LED/CFL or 600-Watt of incandescent/halogen, allowing you to control multiple bulb types on the same circuit. It is designed to control a broad range of dimmable LED and CF...
FYI everything in the URL from ? onwards can be removed
I literally just got that as a YouTube recommendation š¤£
Anyways, even though this is the closest, I have 2 issues with it.
- it's from Ring, which I believed turned their backs on the local home automation community as well as had a recent data breach, didn't they?
- it doesn't replace the old intercom which is broken and every time I walk by, the phone drops and hits the wall (the small flap that is supposed to hold the phone in place is broken)
But functionally, the ring thing does everything I'd need from it.
Yeah I got half excited a year ago and then more or less came to the same realisations as you. My intercom still works so itās not made it up the priority smartification ranking. Yet.
Well since mine doesn't, I'd like to not make a stupid purchase.
I mean. It does work electronically. But not physically. Having your wall all beaten up by this stupid thing that falls more often than you use it gets annoying quickly
Is it Kumo Cloud?
@runic tinsel Found this:
https://youtu.be/-lQ_mbuilic
šThree lucky subscribers will get ESPBell for free!š
Hey there, no more missed doorbell rings while working with headphones! Meet ESPBell-Max and ESPBell-Lite Smart intercom and doorbell IoT modules. These devices seamlessly integrate with Home Assistant and ESPHome, providing interactive notifications š that keep you updated about visitors. And...
So I'd have to buy a new 4+n intercom anyways. And stick this in instead of the ring one. At least it's local
To add on to the smoke detector conversation, I'd like to replace my interconnected dumb smoke detectors (some of them are combo fire/CO) with smart ones, rather than just adding a zwave device to dumb detectors. MASSIVE bonus points if you know of a unit that allows you to pre-emptively mute it (we have one WAY too near our stove and it goes off annoyingly often).
no idea? it's gives me temp/fan controls, temp history etc, that's all I need for now.
Does anybody know if the Tuya Thermometer and Hygrometer sensor TH05 WiFi version works locally or if it needs cloud connection?
Happy to change the firmware, if there is one for the wifi version.
Whatās the word on SwitchBot? I have a hub mini and three little temperature / humidity dongle things⦠I was able to set up the cloud integration, but it looks like nothingās there. āNo devices or entitiesā. My HA server doesnāt have native Bluetooth, but I have a dongle⦠just not sure how to use it.
Is it a dongle on the approved known good working adapters list on the Bluetooth integration page?
Havenāt checked that yet.
But the device did register in the Bluetooth integration page
What are some good thermostats that have great integration with Home Assistant?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
The Netherlands, no budget, Zigbee or WiFi.
I also have a modulating central heating boiler.
TADO works great and can even be setup locally with the homekit controller
Hi, i'am trying to add an espdevice with the espresence installer: https://espresense.com/firmware
But i add my ip and credentiales but it doesnt work, the output is it can show the page, anyone facing something similar?:
that's a hostname not an IP, try an actual IP š
Sorry, i attach the image with another of my tries, here is where i tried with ip but the output was the same error:
sorry i've never used espresence i just wanted to make sure that it wasnt mDNS related. good luck
#diy-archived can probably better help with flashing
Looks like it's already flashed
All I've seen is doesn't work and that it gives some error, but no details for anyone to help
Perhaps their discord will be useful: https://discord.gg/mrYNQPcQ
i'm not getting any error message, it just doesn't connect when i use home asistant credentials:
solved!
Was thinking about picking up a Google Nest mini gen 2, would there be any security risk for buying one second hand?
hey there, i am looking to buy the yellow version for Argentina 220v power adapter compatible. Does anyone know if this is compatible? Or is there any other provider i can find one? https://cloudfree.shop/product/home-assistant-yellow/
Customizable Home Assistant Hub (some assembly required) Built-in Zigbee and Thread Raspberry Pi CM4 Required Additional storage can be added with an NVMe SSD You must provide your own Raspberry Pi Compute Module 4 and install Home Assistant on it. This allows you to pick the compute module with the memory and eMMC storage to fit your needs.
Interesting that they don't mention it
Id order it and replace the psu if it doesn't work, however for 12V2A they may likely use something fairly universal
Not sure if i am asking in the right channel but i'm looking for a led strip to use with Z2M, so i need one with a zigbee controller but i want it to specifically support the transition functionality, how do i begin to look for this? transition is the soft on/off instead of from 0% to 50% instantly.
anyone else running HA on a mac m2? on virual machine via UTM
I'm looking for a IR blaster i can put in some of my rooms. I prefer its ceiling mount. Do anyone have some recommendations?
Has anyone used an A4988 stepper driver in homeassistant? does the stepper turn off if it is at its set position or are the stepper coils always powered?
nevermind, homeassistant can use the sleep pin, sorry for asking, i was searching for "enable"...
I'm trying to add my new Mistubishi Mini-Splits to HA with mitsubishi2MQTT using the CN105 cable to the control board.
Can anyone point me at directions for removing the cover and accessing the control board for a MSZ-FS06NA (or replace 06 with 09/12/15/18)? I've found the parts manual and it isn't obvious to me what holds on the various components and what I need to remove to access the control board.
https://static-pt.com/modelManual/MIT-M-MSZ-FS06-18NA-U1-OBB872-11-20-English_pm.pdf
Morning guys! I have a question to ask. I am about to install CCTV on my property. I havent chosen a maker yet. Which one would you say offers the best integration/capabilities with HASS ? Thanks!
Read about different onvif profiles. And choose what suits you the best
If the cameras support the onvif spec or you have an NVR that supports it, then it doesn't matter which one you chose. It's about feature set vs price. Oh and sensor quality.
Thanks Marty!
highly suggest you post in #cameras-archived and give specifics of what you do and do not want. the majority of people including myself will suggest frigate, especially for advanced object detection and home assistant integration. marty's recommendation has nothing to do with home assistant nor is it very useful lol
mention the specific things you want such as PTZ, 4K cameras, nightvision, substreams, etc and ask questions for what you dont know
frigate is incredible with home assistant
Havent heard this brand at all tbh
Are they sold in Europe ? The ones I get offered are either dahua or hkvision. I have unifi network setup, but their cameras are quite expensive for what they offer imho
i personally choose unifi cameras and pipe them into frigate for advanced object detection
but yes they are overpriced and you can get much better cameras for the money by not buying unifi cams
dahua is the "best" of the chinese brands and is highly recommended in #cameras-archived but there are specific models you want based on the features you need
there are also rebranded dahua that are sold cheaper on sites like ebay such as: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175796606589
frigate can take that camera and use PTZ autotracking to track an object as it moves
Unfortunatelly only after I went full Unifi and got a POE switch and UDM Pro found out that the POE switch cant power any other cameras but unifi's so I will need to buy another POE switch for the cameras only
i'm not sure that's accurate at all
802.11af is a standard that all new(ish) unifi switches use
now you wont get those cameras in your unifi conroller or protect.. but they can be powered by the switchports
This is what I read somewhere on the internet, haven tested it at all since I do not have any cameras yet š
I dont want them in the protect, just want to power them up. but will need a separate NVR I reckon ? UDMpro cant be used right ?
So I guess lan cable will be spliced so that part of it goes for the POE and the rest to an NVR
nope
your NVR or server will plug into your network and access the cameras over IP
you dont splice an ethernet cable
Gotcha š Got some reading to do š Cant find website for these Loryta cameras, basically they are same as dahua but at a lower price ?
not basically the same, they are rebadged (literally imagine scratching out the word burger king and putting mcdonalds, it's still burger king)
but again you should ask in #cameras-archived i'm regurgitating what i've learned there regarding those cameras
Will do.
about to pull the trigger on door/window sensors on Amazon, but wanted to check here first before I do. Anyone have a preference? looking for Zigbee or Matter capable. Aqara has new Matter capable door/window sensor for about 30 bucks. Seems pricey.
aqara zigbee 3.0 called aqara e1 (only on aliexpress)
only the old ones are on amazon for the same price as the new on alie
okay let me check AliExpress
it's a rainy day here in SoCal so I was "shopping" on Amazon
the non e1 dont want to migrate to new routers and otherwise work fine
yeah idk man im sure you can use search and find stuff from other stores, i just gave you a link
not necessarily the best link
oh, ok thanks. good effort though! LOL
idk if the size is identical or not, but you can use them for non-intended purposes too
the question is, if I have the HA zigbee/thread USB antenna (I forgot the name of it) it will connect directly to HA, right?
i use one on my gate in a 3d printed case and other inside my mailbox
i assume you're talking about the skyconnect which i dont use or suggest
but yes
i've seen multiple people have issues after moving to one, and issues all go away when moving back to non-efr32 based coordinator
I see!
if this isnāt the right channel, let me know. I couldnāt find a shelly discord.
I am trying to wire up a shelly dimmer but having no luck so far.
When i wire it up, the lights flicker (not the current issue i want to address). The dimmer broadcasts an AP but when i try to connect it doesnāt allow me to join (using iPhone iOS). I have reset the dimmer multiple times but i am still unable to connect to it, does the wiring have anything to do with it?
I have watched a youtube video where a shelly gets reset (not a shelly dimmer) and it makes a āclick click clickā sound to show that it has been reset. My shelly dimmer does not make that sound, is this normal or is my unit faulty?
I have included an image of my ceiling rose wiring but I did not wire it up in the ceiling only the light switch. I have seen pages where shelly devices need to be wired up in the ceiling rose. I am based in the UK
Hi guys, I know there are some devices to open and close water supply but anyone knows if there is something similar to handle these ones?
these are security valves that are mostly on bathrooms. Is there any automation device that would open and close these?
I think thatās called a ball valve but no idea on smart ones
I think there isn't one
There is this but itās for a main water line into house kinda overkill
that's a big one!
yes, that is not what I'm looking for, for sure š
the one I shared in the picture is pretty small
maybe one day š
I think due to insurance claims we might have to wait a while
Or maybe thereās some fancy pex stuff with smart manifolds to control them all
There are plenty of options for controlling hot water radiators, but those valve mechanisms work differently (push-pull rather than turn)
I mean I'd be interested to know if this sort of thing is just 100% unadulterated jank: https://botland.store/tuya-home-automation/17449-water-gas-ball-valve-actuator-zigbee-tuya-zig-wvz-5903794120501.html
Inb4 it takes a finger while pairing
@glacial oracle wifi 6e overkill network i designed and deployed last year
basically an AP per room for 6ghz and 2.4 all turned down low
plus 60ghz p2p link to the guest house and another 6e AP out there
over $5000 in hardware
actual fuck you money lol
Neat trick to have RF take corners like that
i didnt get paid enough to spend 10 hours on design.ui.com
i roughed it in
i walked into an absolute shitshow
The modern day 'magic bullet'
too lazy to find all the pics but it turned out really nice
i got a text at 7pm like 4 days after i finished.. they never let me do a proper handoff or anything it was fucking weird
so at 7pm they said "internet is not working well"
i was 2 beers deep and logged in and saw it was pinging 2 to cloudflare/google and what actually happened is they added NINETY devices to the trusted ssid not the IoT one
and basically went back and forth a bit and then just told them look, give me an email to transfer ownership cuz i'm not putting up with this for $50 a month to manage
nicely, but still
it's cuz i didnt overlap the corners i think idk.. i really just spent enough time to sketch something up to show them before buying it all
the guy also argued with me on paying extra cuz i had to deal with extra bs and spend more time cuz their stuff was fked
yet he waited multiple days to order everything then spent $400 on next day air
fuckin rich people
like the house had coax ran instead of ethernet to the IDF and it was built a year ago
haha
should have ran fiber
not just to the rooms but the homerun romex and the cat6 unshielded from outside where it goes from ONT to inside IDF was also all along the romex
and the cables were only 1ft out of the wall in the IDF so i had to buy a different rack on the fly and redesign
and use couplers that i hated to use but not my fucking problem
when electrician does ethernet wiring you get that
just issue after issue it was insane man
and then he wouldnt let me take the rest of the roll of cable home
i was pissed
it was nice ubiquiti tough cable
oh
also cuz fucking rich people
the eaves of the house and the guest house were cement board not wood
charge double, buy yourself another roll
so when i tried to screw into them, they disentegrated
i didnt have $5000 open on a credit card to buy it all and upcharge
so instead i said i want to make X and revisit if there are issues
we use it exclusivly
how do you terminate it
i dont, layer 1 installers do
but we provide all of the hardware
i've never touched cat7 or anything where i have to use those metal jackets and stuff
that shit is scary
bionic eth
we buy so much that cables have our company name stamped on them
cool
why would you be scared of it?
when you get single mode fiber core stuck in the finger
i think you can only terminate so many cables before you compress the meat in your fingers
i've never touched fiber
too cool for me
if there was some meaningful difference that i'd see at home vs cat6 at 10GbE then maybe i could justify the extra bullshit
energy efficiency i guess
instead in my opinion it's a complete waste of time
i live in a shitty old house in texas, my biggest electric bill last year was over $700
i think opening the door once would cost more than the savings of fiber in a month
ah countries where electricity is free ;D
get wifi anywhere you go setup warehouse edition
$700 is not a low number
basically one every 20feet?
about right
https://kit.co/lawrencesystems/network-gear
Connecting With Us
-------------------------------------------...
this was very eye opening to me
had no idea they deployed them that dense due to interference like metal
well, we pay nearly 3k
for a around 7.5Mwh
from that pov 700 is basically free ;D
you can see them in pic
1 ap, 2 directional antennas, one connected via dart connector another via rptnc
proprietary cisco cable that's basically ethernet?
proprietary sma connector basically
i dont fit in a corporate environment so i'll never touch that kind of stuff
i'm too good of a person
not every corporate enviroment is toxic
haha
i watched my dad get screwed by nortel then other companies after dot com bs then mom get screwed by IBM
then i had two full time IT jobs where i quit after 6 months because i couldnt mentally handle the amount of bullshit with being on such shitty teams
pretty much in limbo at this point
america?
yea i know
i've tried starting my own it company like doing smart home design and deployment and networking and such
but most of my clients are grandmas that need help moving to a new laptop and other dumb stuff
hard to find clients without a big client base already
9-5 job schedule that americans and people in cities have is not something that is for me
honestly i dont even care about "making it" anymore
i just want enough money to survive and afford a ski trip every few years
no time in morning, no time in afternoon
basically whole day trapped
what about 1hour traffic to work and 2 hours home š
more like 7 minutes š½
i meant like average american who drives to work also has to deal with traffic
so 9-5 is more like 7:30-7:30
that's hyperbole but actually happens
especially for places like california where they force the poor people into rich areas to work but not live
so the poors have to drive 60+ miles sometimes or take busses etc just to get work cuz the poor area doesnt need their skills
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0966692318302837 better article i think
i could drive that far and cross 2 borders
wild
3 even
i had to drive around 30miles to get to the rich guy's house for that networking gig above
he had a mclaren and a maybach in the garage and a lambo suv in guest house garage š
must be nice
would rather work on a network of that price
Tbh Iām not a big fan of touching hardware
I canāt break it if I donāt touch it
I want to set it up and walk away
yes but it was setup time
Also my dad worked for nortel and showed me plenty of cableporn installs
funniest thing is when automatic failover doesent fail over
So much that I hate making wires look nice unless i know ill never touch them again
on friday i have found out that fortigate failover doesent fail over if under a certain condition
Time for a 3 month long circle jerk with helpdesk
more like on monday we will have a meeting with integrator who set it up initially
Paid sla does its magic
I wish I was allowed to share the things I build at work on the internet š¦
Of course half of it is beautiful cabling, and the other half is "I just unboxed this $65,000 switch, lemme balance it on top of the rubbish bin for a sec to get a picture"
lol
Would it be a problem to run multiple things like HA and Pi-hole on a single Intel N100 machine?
N100 can handle a lot more than that
Go for it
Yeah I was thinking it'd be a great choice to move away from my RPi 3B
Pihole is basically using 50megs of ram and 0% cpu
You should run 2 or more instances
I have an RPi 3B running HA and a separate Zero 2W running Pi-hole
For example, I use 192.168.1.2, 192.168.1.22, 192.168.1.222
Super easy to remember just twos in fourth octet
So that HA's IP doesn't conflict with Pi-hole IP's right?
Oh what do you mean by instances? Multiple HA installations?
Sorry I'm not very familiar with Linux and all that
If one goes down you need backup dns so your shit can go to google.com
My router has a backup DNS configured if my Pi-hole is down
If you only have pihole setup and make all your dns on every client only have that one ip and it goes down then you now have no way to Nslookup
Also bad cuz clients choose whether to use primary or secondary
So your smart tv could just not use pihole and use secondary instead
Oh okay gotcha, my Pi-hole does report that every connected client is using it though (they're all green)
Also read this: #add-ons-archived message
anyone using a tank-less heater like the Panasonic DH-6SM1?
am looking for something to control it's power state without a neutral since i live somewhere where neutrals are not used in the house.
Imo it makes more sense to copy pasta vs point back to old words cuz new people to discord donāt understand and the conversation now no longer ebbs and flows it jumps back and forth days/months etc
Is there beginner friendly software like CasaOS that I can use to manage separate Docker containers? I read about CasaOS on Reddit but the reviews aren't very positive
Thatās what unraid does well
If I would do that I'd never find my posts again š
I also tend to update my posts a lot.
CasaOS is terrible in my opinion nothing but issues here for people
For some reason my brain is good at remembering specific words I said during specific Conversations
Itās my superpower
Thanks, just checked it out
Looks a bit too overkill for me though
And above my sphere of knowledge at this time š
Unraid is dead simple
Are you just wanting docker management like portainer etc?
https://github.com/louislam/dockge have you looked at this too? Iāve heard good things
I was just looking on their website!
Oh more of that guy
Is bad?
I have no experience with it, just know that account from uptime kuma which is okay I guess
So is Proxmox an option? I don't think Proxmox uses Docker though but creates VMs for every application (HA, Pi-Hole, etc)
Well letās back up a bit
Proxmox is Debian Linux with a gui and tools to make it a hypervisor (an OS that can virtualize other OSes)
Proxmox will let you create lxcs from the proxmox server itself but thatās not your only option
A popular method is a dockerhost VM where all your docker containers live
There are many many good tutorials online
My suggestion: watch a flashy YouTuber to make it look easy then a good YouTuber to learn how to do it
I.e. techno Tim followed by learn Linux (Iāll confirm in a min)
lol
Gotcha, thanks for the explanation
I think Proxmox might be the way to go for me, I found some tutorials that explain how to install HA and Pi-hole on it really easily
And they will have their own IP as well
Cool
Woah. This looks cool. Gonna give it a shot. Currently use Portainer and the UI annoys me a little bit
@cold moon yep the whole dang run
yikez
that probably means it isnt stapled to the wall either
This run in particular is going to the light junction in the attic
then pull it through with good romex
And from the light junction back to the house
but it still wont be stapled to the studs
so will still be against code
the thing is.. if they ever check that they might make you rewire the whole thing
i think it depends on the inspector
Arghhh
My dead dad and his silly plans never end to surprise me
Why hire someone without a license š
honestly it's just scary to think what else they fucked up
like i'd spend the money and just have a sparky come and tell you how bad it is
but they might report you
Yea that's been my problem for the last week
I'm pulling my hair out because of this guy
Half the lights in the room don't work
And the worst part is that they did power for the gas fireplace and tv
Which are things built into a rock wall
I can't access them except the fireplace plug
But if sh*t needs to be re run there too I'm doomed
The lights in this room all scattered to different 15 amp circuits
Yea?
Oh and I already saved the room from a near fire
everywhere there is red is on one 20amp circuit
2 rooms and 1 living room wall shared
and i think it's the same on the other side too
i dont want to confirm and be more upset
One of the dam pot lights were so cheap the conductor fell out and sparked in a insulated ceiling š
yikes
i replaced all my cans with philips hue ones connected to zigbee2mqtt
it was before i knew better
Your thinking mine is similar?
i should've just done one smart switch
no i'm just sharing how shit mine is
I feel ya on that, almost went down that road too
i'm still not 100% smartified there's a handful of switches left to replace
im 95% there
Well I'm trying to tack two different sets of lights at the same junction
So 2 way for the main lights
And 1 way for the pot lights
Technically 3way if we refer you the common and l1/l2 dumb switches
But my relays are 2 gang
I've always wondered about this
How does custom installers and after the fact projects work?
they cut drywall
I see so many custom installers just drill holes and pull lines though?
Is this hoping inspection won't notice?
I understand the reasoning behind stapling
But I'm trying to sell here, want to do my best with renovations but not add more work
Already been at it for four years
sorry man i'm not a sparky i just know stuff based on what i've seen
imo this is even more reason to just pay an electrician to do it all cuz it needs to pass inspection
and if they see simple shit you might be in for a world of hurt
and you will not catch all the simple shit cuz you dont do it for a living
i wouldnt either
for example
Isn't a basic house inspection all you need to sell though unless requested by a buyer?
As long as it's done properly (minus the stapling) wouldn't I be fine?
i had an hvac guy out and he explained that he wouldnt even touch the gas line without getting a permit, and to get a permit they have a guy from the city come out. he said based on the time of day and whether the guy got laid or not last night, you might end up having to repipe the entire house due to aleak. and he said look, it doesnt mean it's dangerous, every house has the tiniest leak unless it's brand new. but he said that ultimately a leak would show up cuz it's a fuckin old house and then they turn your gas off and cant turn it back on til it passes with zero leaks
i'm sure it's based in good reasoning
he told me a horror story about a lady that just wanted to like move her unit or something and now they've already charged her over $20,000 tearing down drywall and replacing pipe piece by piece
he was a good ole boy
yeah man you're probably fine, i'm just trying to get you to be safe and CYA
think of it this way, let's say a sparky wants to charge you $5000 and if you fail a test it'll cost $20,000
when you're selling a house $5000 is just cost of doing business in my eyes at that point
you could also probably find a local handyman to unfuck stuff and then pay an electrician to certify it's indeed unfucked
but i'd find a local handyman that knows his shit not jim-bob
In other words me and just cut the drywall š¤£
I just tried to use my scope
Couldn't follow the wire properly to see if the jacket exists
As far as I can tell it look like they left the original walls up
And placed studs then insulation for the new walls
ya man it's not rocket science you could do it
The original junction is for the garage door openers is Still in the wall ahaha
but when you're asking for help on how to wire a 3 way switch that kinda makes me think you arent the best man for the job
yea that's bad
I'm trying to see if there was a way to work around this mess by just not following color convention
But the more I look at thus the more I feel
I should just re do it , or get someone to do it
yep
Well as long as I get it checked I'm good, I recently dismantled an entire bathroom
your time is worth money, even if that means working extra or something instead of spending your time redoing the house work
I've got the ability, don't like it though šµāš«
I've been doing it for four years now
While trying to sell of 27 years of his life
Part of me feels I have a responsibility to get it done but I'm getting really sick of it
yeah
He passed down my wood working skill and stuff to me
i've heard that children often have to figure out how to get rid of a life's worth of collections
I'm also running low on time money here
ye
you can probably post on r/woodworking and see if someone wants to buy it as a lot. there's a really big community there
So every failed project or something I'm struggling to finish is making me feel quite stressed
ya i feel that
good to check a box off or two
well sometimes changing the scope of what you need to do helps. like okay maybe the "house" needs work but you can focus on selling a saw or researching electricians or something and that's still a win
break it down into digestible chunks
Fair point
Been trying that a bit with check list
Tend to forget to add or check stuff off though, ahaha
Guess I'll climb into the attic tomorrow and see if I can find the wire, they don't have it stapled by the looks of it
Ya
Itās just good karma too
What if that sparked a fire in a kids room
My Nextdoor neighbors house burned down 2 years ago
True, I'm gonna have to pull the dam light fixtures down to get to their junctions though won't I?
It was due to wiring in the attic
Can lights just pop out watch a YouTube video so you donāt break Sheetrock
No I mean the main ceiling lights
Their big domes
Placed in the spots were the garage door openers used to be
Yea
Can't access it from the attic can I?
Not a big deal donāt make it one in your head lol
Uh idk each fixture is different
Best to inspect all the things honestly
I'll check tomorrow, I'm just scared of heights and have back issues
Even more reason to have someone else do it
That sucks
Back pain is forever
We had our vacation home collapse due to a Strom, first ceiling to collapse was about a youngsters bed
Thankfully no one was home
It was due to the main builder not using wrap on the roof
No tar either for the shingles
If you own a vacation home stop being cheap and donāt hurt your back and have an electrician fix your shit
I don't own a vacation home ahaha
It was a small cabin my parents had years back
But same point you made
Ya I hear ya
Having someone get hurt or loose their home isn't worth cheaping out, that's why when I'm doing this stuff I do my research and ask alot of questions.
So if I gotta redo the drywall then I guess I'll do that, and have someone check it before
Anyone find any nice thermostat option for geothermal systems that integrates well with HA without cloud dependency?
Been reading through old discussions on local based thermostats, but wondering about ones more inclusive of GSH option controls
How much space should I dedicate to HAOS? Currently my docker image eats up about 200MB, so is 20GB plenty? I'm worried about add-ons eating too much space, since by default docker doesn't delete old images.
Good morning Ha community, looking for help maybe someone can help me out here. I have a spare internal SSD Samsung 870 Evo 1tb and am using Sata to usb3 cable connected to my dell optiplex server.(Proxmox) Problem is on the SHELL I can see my hard drive but on the proxmox DISC option keeps loading can't find a hard drive. Any solution what to do? Is the cable issues?
I would like to use these hard drive to back up my proxmox
Please show the shell command/output and a screenshot of the node's Disks tab.
Please use imgur or other image sharing web sites, and share the link here.
Image posting is blocked in most channels to discourage people from sharing text as images. Sharing text as images assumes that everybody sees the world as you do, which isn't the case. Some people are colour blind, or have visual impairment that means they can't make sense of an image of text.
Paulman Easydim integration
Hi community, looking for help with Tuya devices
been mostly using them with openbekken but ive had some die after a while
gonna try to reflash them but its tedious to take them out of the wall/open/solder
wondering if any others have changed the chip inside to esp wich seems to be more supported
At that point you might as well just buy something else
so i have HA instaled on a minimicro pc. and i need to install bluetooth on it. how are these tplink usb bluetooth modules supported? or is there a better option? I think i have an m.2 slot available but ill have to look.
Or even better use a Bluetooth proxy
As theyāre confirmed faster than native bt due to avoiding slowness of Linux stack
oh. hmm. the only external device i have so far that might qualify for that is this esphome device. but its connected via wifi not ethernet. would it work?
https://shop.apolloautomation.cloud/products/multisensor-mk1
Apollo Multisensor MSR-1 offers mmWave Radar for motion detection, LUX & UV sensing, accurate temperature & humidity, optional CO2 detection, RGB feedback, and alerts in a small package. Sleek design with customization options. Engage with our community and elevate your smart home with open-source resources.
Yes
Itāll work but whether itās best to move it to a dedicated device idk
I know certain things should be proxies if theyāre doing other stuff but I forget the cutoff or reasoning
How much better is it if they are using Ethernet? I have 2x TPLink EAP610 wireless APs
Idk I use two $5 esp32
Over Wi-Fi
Esphome Bluetooth Proxy info from bdraco:
If you are making active connections itās recommended to deploy the proxies in pairs on opposite sides of the room since when a connection is in progress it cannot receive advertisements.
If the rooms are close enough it wonāt matter so much about having two per room since the active connection range is much shorter than the advertisement reception range
You just need a second one in advertisement range while the other one is connecting. Usually that can be anywhere in a 2500sqft house
Deploy one per every 625sqft with a minimum of 2 and you are good
K. I'll figure it out. I plan on setting more of those anyways for in home BT location room tracking.
Yea we have a 1500 SQ ft home and I plan on putting 4 or 5 of the Bluetooth trackers around the house. If I'm also using them all as proxies that should work well.
Will be for assistance on automations for room/presense detection along with motion sensors.
How would i make a standard light switch smart without replacing them? i want to have the option to use these switches without actually cutting the power to the lights (hue bulbs)
or is this the wrong channel to ask
@crimson tulip in the past I think you mentioned a good dumb bulb for a dimmer that does not flicker. Can you please tell me which brand or ones those are?
Did I?
Iām trying to think
It was bought at target š¤£
Home depo ones flicker
Eco smart or whatever, I avoid those.
#zwave-archived message maybe this is what i was thinking of?
nah wasnt that long ago
Well yes, but I did have to go and find bulbs that didnāt pulse or flicker when dimmed
basically a guy wants a good bulb for inovelli dimmer
and the only thing i like are mixing hue bulbs with smart switches not dummies
ok, but did you settle on one brand or just bought random stuff until one worked and left it?
good to avoid anything sengled right (even outside of zigbee)
My parents bought sengled wifi bulbs to work with Amazon, they work aight
fwiw the athom bulbs are all sengled flashed to wled or esphome or tasmota
So does anyone know why the ESP32 s3B device would connect to wifi by not display an IP address in the ESP Box app?
It's rejecting my pings and I can't seem to configure it for HA
I need to replace the temperature sensors in the refrigerators and freezers. I think Iām gonna use the Aqara Zigbee . But should I use an MQTT only sensor would that be better?
I donāt think those will last
I think diy esphome with probes is common but Iād search on the forums
Iāve seen it come up before
Thank you
Also Iām not sure how necessary this is
Compared to an energy monitoring plug
This is all I do
Notify if those bitches stop using power
if the compressor goes bad, it could still be drawing power. Also, if there was a Freon leak, it would still be making all of the watts, but not doing anything on the other side making it cold.
Ya and if my grandmother had wheels sheād be a bicycle 
Too many what ifs but I get it
Iām just playing
Maybe have the power sensor and a temperature sensor best of both worlds. What power sensor do you use?
I like and use sonoff s31 Wi-Fi flashed to esphome
Search here using my name and youāll see tons of info Iāve shared
Cool
I have a handful of the s40 plugs. Wonder if those can be flashed too
Nope
Heck, I always get the wrong thing
Ask first lol
Never thought about using them for monitoring power. All I was looking to do is turn something off and on.
I only had them a few days. Maybe I can send them back to Amazon and get the right ones
You can
Reason for return no energy monitoring misleading
Sonoff is a giant Chinese company theyāll survive
OK!
I have a headache from looking at templates all morning trying to understand them now Iām just sitting down and back on the hardware side ha ha
I choose drop off at local ups
Yes, thatās what I do too. I think theyāre gonna get tired of me dropping off stuff.
Keep the wizardry in #templates-archived
Haha
I wrote software for the last 40 years and I guess Iām trying to relate to what Iām used to dealing with. The problem is some people that you talk to on the various forearms. Donāt want to give you the time of the day, but just drop you a little tiny bit and hope the heck youāre gonna figure it out, which makes it even harder, donāt use the old one. I donāt use the new one and donāt mix them together well heck all I know is the new one I didnāt even know there was an old one. Yeah Iāll get it. I got working thatās all that matters for now, and that was good enough.
Hard to keep teaching an old dog a new trick. And this dog is really old.
in my experience the more of a "coder" someone is, the harder it is to onboard them in hass
cuz they want to draw correlations like "how do i do this loop or this array or blah blah blah"
instead of just being willing to learn and start from scratch
same logic companies use for not wanting to hire someone who's been doing something a long time vs training a new guy their way
Haha. I just want to do some real simple stuff but I figured it out. Not really even coding.
it's 50% people burned out explaining the same thing over and over and 50% people who need months of sensitivity training and severe consequences for being mean for no reason