#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 42 of 1
oh, cool additional parameters
Agreed they can, but I feel like generally they are expensive because they do shutoff too not just monitoring
seems you're destined for a diy solution
Man, Im not trying to be a pain. All I want to know is if some no whole home sensors exist and if you have any links to some and your being a real prick about it
no
Doesn’t it seem really small for 24-30v? But who knows
size kinda doesnt matter a whole lot
its supposed to switch 3800w ac, it probably will do 300w dc aswell
Not exactly what you're looking for but depending on your meter type you could just monitor the entire house water usage.
I'm really new to HA but I'd bet you could probably see when a toilet is flushed. If you have multiple bathrooms it probably complicates things unless they're the same toilet model
if that is a level of detail youd even need to make smart decisions you can just add aditional meters wherever they fit inbetween
they are like 30 bucks and another <50 for an off the shelf digital reader
I just bought a Aeotec Gen 2 home energy monitor for $25
I'm pretty excited to get it setup.
I have that now but it would be nice to know when a specific sink/toilet, etc.. is pulling water both for automations and leak detection
Any idea what the difference between the S31 and S40 are? They both come in a "Lite ZB", so they're both Zigbee. They're both 120v, 15A. I downloaded the PDFs for both direct from Sonoff and can't see any difference...
(other than that CloudFree doesn't offer the S40 preflashed...)
I'm impressed, CloudFree's prices are really good and their shipping is very reasonable. They must be located near me - regular ground UPS is cheaper and has a shorter delivery time than 3-day UPS!
heh... they're in the southern part of my state!
No idea, maybe ask them. I like they donate a portion to open source projects too.
Iirc S40 uses a different chipset and can't be flashed.
the Zigbee versions probably aren't particularly different aside from aesthetics.
Hi all, looking for some advice
My motorized driveway gate uses a 433MHz remote. It's a ATA-PTX5-v2 , and there's a 6-pin receiver board connected to the gate logic board.
Looks like this one: https://www.reidsremotes.com.au/home/1389-ata-fhrx2-v1-triocode-32-bit-2-channel-6-pin-on-board-receiver-62850-9325964001247.html
Is there any hardware that can allow home assistant to connect to this?
Can someone recommend any zigbee extender/repeaters
I recommend you use something useful instead like a socket, light, whatever
Thanks. Sorry for being lazy and not searching myself...
My HA keeps loosing connection at random times. I'm not sure how to narrow the source of the reason?
how is it connected
Wired into a TP lin Deco router
is it loosing connection as being unpingable or issues with accessing dashboard?
unpingable I get "connection lost restarting HA"
first thing is to check ha logs
@bitter zenith I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
(My first message included the code and it made it into a file because it was too long.)
You could check out the Apollo Automation MSR-1. It is the smallest ESPHome mmWave CO2 Multisensor. It tracks distance and has many gates that you can fine tune. See the attached pictures and below for the chart card code. Let me know if you have any questions!
thx, looks nice. but delivery costs and tax will be exordinary 😄
Free international shipping if you spend at least $150.
hehe, yeah and our customs will be happy 😄 +20% tax + customs
atm, its okay, sometimes the fp2 get stuck.... but i hope for an update (lol)
but for US users, this seems pretty cool....with that features,....for sure
We have had very positive feedback and loved working with the community on this project.
Have you looked into this -> https://www.tindie.com/products/gadgetgarage/aiosense/ I believe it is made in Germany.
whats with the pir sensors still being used?
We do not use PIR in the MSR-1 because it made the sensor too bulky. The PIR is quicker at sensing motion. The mmWave is more sensitive and can detect you even when still.
Exactly, this is what we found as well. We have had very positive results with the LD2410 and PIR seemed unnecessary.
what would i be looking for in my logs?
issues related to networking, you can also look at supervisor logs
Would this be the place to ask about ESPhome and UART configuration?
No
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
Their Discord would be the best place
Looking at some wifi lights with Zigbee. Looking at some MiBoxer FUT106ZR devices. Has anyone got these working through Zigbee2Mqtt?
its either wifi or zigbee, can't do both usually
if its not in the zigbee2mqtt.io list its not working with it
I have a MiBoxer LM052 controller that is not on the supported list, but I powered it up. Zigbee2MOTT fround it and reported as a TS0505B controller and a status of reported. So I was sort of hoping the same thing might happen with the FUT106ZR blubs. The FUT106ZR are listed as Zigbee but they have their own custom radio control to their controllers, so the description mentions wifi.
that was the luck of the draw with the LM052, the same might happen with this one considerin its also Tuya branded
OK, Thanks for the help.
Anyone here got a smart lock for their home in the EU (Netherlands for me) recently? I'm looking for one with ideally fingerprint, pin (6 or more digits), and traditional key support, 100% local only. Could live with one of fingerprint or pin, but definitely need traditional key support. I would like to be able to enroll fingerprint or pin for guests and be able to disable it arbitrarily at a later date. I don't mind having to modify the front door to install the lock. Appreciate any help!
Any one have a accurate way of bed detection? I don't see anything off the shelf that's reasonably affordable.
The new Yale has fingerprint. Not sure if in EU yet. Looks nice, can have a physical key. Works local with ble or zwave and wifi, and matter eventually
I was really convinced by the Yale assure lock 2, but can't find it available anywhere in EU and def not with Dutch SKG certification etc.
Hmm. Have you tried contacting them?
@glossy sage they ship in the US a town over from me. I was testing the new fingerprint lock before it came out. I do really like it. I mean if you reallyyy liked it, and want me to ask their head product manager I can. Also if you see an advertisement on Facebook, the people who respond are great
I would love to learn of any news on a EU release planned!
How does setting multiple pins and invalidating pins work with it?
Honestly the ble is great, and matter is coming, and zwave 7
I mean I guess you could steal them from the warehouse a town over from me.
Funny they overnighted to me, I'm like can I go get it
Overnight went a few states over, then back to me
I'm trying to get free zwave 700 too. Lol
Mind emailing general support first, and if you don't get, or don't like the answer, I'll bother the development head. Gives me an excuse up ask for more stuff
I just use esphome ble proxy
@undone schooner you can.
Ble only.
Directly to HA and local
Yup
I suggest making sure you have connected to August (not Yale) cloud once
It makes the set up seem less to get the Bluetooth key info
But yea works great. I left the other integration there and just disabled
Reminds me
I need to take the wifi out of my fingerprint one
Zwave does let you manage keys
But I disabled that honestly
Sent the email. Assuming their response is that they don't sell it in the EU now and don't plan to, any ideas about other good options?
All my locks are Yale. I don't mind their app
Compatiblity
They have international products for sure
Give me a shout with the answer either way.
If you don't have any esphome proxies they are pretty easy
10 coordinators
Or proxies
He has ble proxies
Or you can buy an Olimex Poe too.
Can't do both
Tbh I am worried that no certs in EU or the Netherlands might be an issue for the home insurance. LOQED seems to have SKG3 in the NL for instance.
I'm still confused why you have 10
Lol
Shit, yea. That's a good reason
Afiak they don't do both and / or would cause issues
I have 1 of those, I did order 6 of the non poe proxy
Didn't feel like making a case. The m5 atom light is great if you are OK with wifi
Only 7.50
That's why I ordered the tubez non poe
Or use poe++
For proxies
It's wired
Just not poe
Yea. I have a few spots where it's actually easier.
Yea, I have some spots where I lucky I got 1 cat6a
So. Lol.
Unifi. They have a mini router that will output from poe++ to poe, so I could do that
The USW-Flex really is a pretty decent product, there are very few 5 port switches out there that'll do 1-in-4-out PoE (plenty of 1-in-2-out)
Is that the one that takes input of poe ++?
Almost got it
Yea. I don't need it....
Yep. Just make sure you're buying the USW-Flex and not the USW-Flex-Mini (that one has no PoE output)
I have a few flex minis that are older
But yea that's the name. I am looking for an excuse to buy one. Lol
It can actually do 802.3at out - clearly the hardware was capable all along, but was a year or two after release they enabled it in the firmware
My buddy got 5gb fiber. Nothing he has is over 1gb...
Just gotta watch 25G switches, depending on exactly how the ASIC inside is built.
You often find the 25 and 100G switches have the same chip, which means the port speeds are locked in blocks of 4; ports 2-4 have to be the same speed as port 1. 6-8 same as 5, etc.
Not the case for everything - and possibly less likely on these smaller, lower-end things - but surprisingly common.
Australians: is there a consensus on the best choice for a wifi light bulb? (Or ZigBee). My old Yeelight finally bit the dust.
I only need shades of white
Hue? And they make a decent zigbee router too. Bit spendy
Yeh bit spendy I think
Amazon sale in couple days
Running out of data for backups and storage on a 4 bay QNAP NAS.
Have a server rack with 4 NUC as well for Proxmox and HA which can also be data hungry.
What's the next logical step other than upgrading local storage on every NUC or upgrading the storage on the QNAP NAS?
Depends, do you want local or cloud backups?
Local only 🙂
Then upgrade the NAS
The only other option would be a second NAS, which is likely to cost more (and require more power)
That's a really good point
I don't know why but I've got "SAN" stuck in my head. There's a lot more complexity in that and waaaaay more power consumption
Just thought moving away from "4 bay" to something more would give me more flexibility
Depends on your needs though... sometimes you need more than a toy NAS can provide 😛
You could replace the current NAS with an 8 bay one
Why didn't I think of that?
Or now that the convo is moving in that direction, could build one with an old PC
You've also got https://www.terra-master.com/uk/products/smallmedium-businesses-nas.html where you can use their OS, or run Debian/whatever
That looks like a reasonable next step and a lot less complex than a full on DC solution 👀
@glossy sage I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
Got a response to the email
*Unfortunately, this lock is only available in the United States\Canada region. Since it is only compatible with the Yale Access app and for replacements. Since we do not ship outside our region."
Lifx. Available at Bunnings.
Hello, I bought tuya zigbee thermostat head for heating, and I mounted 2/3 with 1/2 valve. But in my livingroom, I have 3/4 valve.
Anybody knows where can I buy adapter for CALEFFI valve 3/4 for this, or to buy another brand and model for 3/4 valve? thanks
Pretty sure I've made this point before ... but ... you have to tell people where in the world you are
Hi, I have got my device to connect to my Zigbee USB stick on a VM on my linux PC. For running this 24/7, I am thinking of building a new "server" which will host HA but also Plex server and have 2*8 TB in raid. I think my options are
- Buy a NAS with virtualization, e.g., Synology DS224+ and run HA in a VM.
- Get a RPi 5, two 8 TB disks and build a chassi of lego or 3d-print it.
- Buy a NUC, and like step 2 find some way of hiding the hard drives.
Which route would you go?
Uh it works with August. Do you have anything Yale or August?
None of those
Keep plex separate. Build a new plex machine
Wdym? The issue is that they don't sell it because of this, whether the reason is valid or not 😛
I mean do they sell any locks in your country, August or Yale
Hue Hubs are nice if you want the Entertainment API or are planning to use Gradients and do any HDMI stuff with Play, a TV backsplash, but they’re otherwise a little limiting. Slows down tons around 35-40 devices and I think hard limit is 62. Have really been happy with CC2652P coordinators and MQTT here — have 220 of the Hue bulbs and MQTTs a nice way to address them (even if across >1 coordinator).
I’d say hardware and software are different choices to make. I used to run a single NAS with 60xLFF shelf but nowadays tend to use a couple 2U 24x20TB LFF instead. TrueNAS has been great. Saves a lot of time versus doing everything myself.
Hi, I wanted to ask for some advice- I'm looking to get a smart radiator valve that works over Zigbee. I was looking at the Sonoff ones, as they sell them locally and also they're relatively cheap, but I can't find any feedback about getting them to work with HA... Any advice?
Looking to buy the dual edge coral TPU (e-key) whenever its back in stock, they preface with a warning
* Although the M.2 Specification (section 5.1.2) declares E-key sockets provide two instances of PCIe x1, most manufacturers provide only one. To use both Edge TPUs, be sure your socket connects both instances to the host.
If my motherboard's e-key says M.2 PCI Express module up to Gen3 x2 (16 Gb/s) I'm good right?
Hi I wanted to ask for some advice I m
Yes. Was not suggesting hue hub. I also use z2m
https://yalehome.nl/smart-locks/ they sell the "linus" lock here it seems
Ontdek het gemak van Yale smart locks. Beheer toegang op afstand en open je deur via je smartphone of code. Met een slim slot heb je geen sleutels meer nodig.
ah,
Those seem to be "August" which Yale bought. So their response about "Yale access" makes sense
I mean unless they will not work/fit over there. I'll ship to you, lol
I expect I might need to sideload the app, deal with a lot of other random things, and also first I need to read through my insurance to see if there is any certification requirements. I don't think that's the best idea unfortunately :/
Probably sticking to something available here is best for me
aww, sorry, yea. There is a zigbee company, are they based over there? Dana I think
Danish, the website says (not Dutch but close ;P). Both the Danalock v3 and Danapad v3 seem to be available here! Can you help me understand (if you have any idea) how different features of it work?
What can be operated over zigbee? What can be operated via app+smartphone? Can it be used local-only or does it need to phone home for functionality?
There is an exclusively bluetooth version, a bluetooth+zigbee, and a bluetooth+zwave it seems
Yea, they have lots of options
Zwave has better support in general for managing keys for users
But I don't know them well enough
$1/bulb and
Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Receptacle, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, Tamper-Resistant, 1 Z-Wave Outlet & 1 Always On Outlet, Hub Required, Almond, Smart Outlet, Lamps, Small Appliances, 14297 https://a.co/d/07Z5OJa
Life is automatic with the GE-branded Z-Wave Plus In-Wall Smart Tamper-Resistant Outlet. When paired with a compatible hub, the smart outlet controls and schedules plug-in devices through ON/OFF commands and programmed settings. Wirelessly operate lamps, fans, small appliances and more for effort...
I'm sorry
Wait, we should be talking about switches anyway, not outlets.
I'm assuming you have a good number of lights on a switch, as opposed to lamps plugged into an outlet.
@willow stratus
yeah, but most downlights are Surface Socket (downlights that plug into a type 1 plug), no doubt you could import something, but if ANYTHING happens, you have no insurance
Mostly for him, instead of spending thousands on bulbs.
money isn't the issue; the HAP Nanoleaf bulbs were already ~$20 a bulb, so it's going to be expensive regardless
wow, you don't wire up lights directly? Interesting
we do, just most dont
If there's a switch that operates that downplug
You can still make the switch smart and not necessarily the outlet, maybe.
you could, but by the time you have invested in converting that switch and wiring it up, in most cases you're not really saving any funds
and if you ever wanna go back, you gotta get a sparkie to do it (also meant to do it regardless, but you can get away with it)
Yeah, I suppose you're not likely to have many downlights on the same switch that way.
Are all your outlets GFCI? That's kind of nice.
only in wet or hazardous areas
Our (US) breakers protect the walls, they don't do shit for the outside of the outlet.
EU does that better afaik.
but we have physcial switches on the outlet, so stuff, most of the time, isnt just using power passively into the device/appliance
Alright, I've never seen anything like that before.
Let me just go burn some coal about it.
make sure its clean coal
Oh yeah, only the most pristine coal.
I want to go full solar and EV, but I don't have $120k lying around quite yet.
I'm also worried about spending $50-60k on solar and then the tech improving or the price dropping within 3 years. But at least for now the US government is paying 30% of the solar cost.
you'll probably get that regardless. solar panel densities will likely improve, as well battery backup solutions (I'd like to see less reliance on lithium for batteries and more into other solutions like zinc-bromine. ie: https://redflow.com/zbm3-battery)
@drifting grove not sure if you've come across these before as an alternate power plug: https://www.athom.tech/products
~$20AU a plug (prices are in USD...).
holy shit, that actual isnt too bad
Shipping from Sydney to New Zealand is much slower than shipping from China,We suggest New Zealand buyers choose shipping from China .
🤣
yeeeeah, haha
They're not wrong
I have a bunch, and they work well
Oh, as an aside, I'm running Unraid on my server that might advertise itself as [server name].local. I wonder if that's doing something weird with mDNS.
I am also, and I think that is by design.
Kinda weird that we've chosen all the same tech. Except. You know. Your outlets are upside down.
lets not get into nit-picking our direction of things. not everyone can get things in freedom units.
https://forums.unraid.net/topic/128405-how-does-towerlocal-work/?do=findComment&comment=1169738 - seems to sum it up nicely.
I used to access my old router at dlink.local - I thought nothing of it because I figured my router just handled it and intercepted the url. I've recently started using unraid and the url tower.local just worked out of the box with no input from me. How does this happen? Is it possible to set my ...
anyone know a good underfloor heating controller that works with home assistant. Needs to also have a physical controller. Atm i have a ProWarm ProTouch Touchscreen (non-wifi)
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Putting some esp controlled led strips outside. I've got a waterproof box for the esp parts, but should the power supply brick be in that type of enclosure too? It's under cover so should get direct weather but still could get some.
is it a waterproof brick?
Doubtful
But not sure I can get the end of the brick connector inside of the box without cutting and reconnecting the wires. Unless there any suggestions on an outdoor housing for this type of thing?
Get a weatherproof box for it too - they usually come with suitable cable ports
Hey there, what do you think is it AC or DC? Cause it doesnt do anything with 24v dc…
I meant 24V dc psu..
24V AC would be something
It is a solenoid… so it could be i think. Hope not…
Thats what you get for buying „quality aqara“
My cheap sensors pop open on their own. Ha.
the aqara stuff is sleek looking though
My cheap sensors pop open on their own. Ha.
So do my cheap TuYa door/window sensors
I don't even change batteries in mine
I'm moving that route, still haven't found a temp sensor I like
(esp temp sensor)
IIRC Im using bme280's atm
I am looking to add home assistant to a new bathroom shower. Something like the Koehler DTV but DIY.
The DTV system with body shower, rain shower etc is over $6,000.
I want to buy just the shower heads from them. Rest of it I want to design my own system.
Maybe a touchscreen to control the system and maybe view YouTube etc on it.
Hey, I got a Athom ESPHome controller connected to my HomeAssistant, but i do not have anything to select an effect, like i see it on the internet. What did I do wrong?
Probably you're looking at outdated guides/videos
The #integrations-archived channel can help you though
thank you
we can't get the sonoff zigbee stick to connect under ubuntu it is recognised but we only get connection error /dev/ttyACM1 - SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle
Do you have user permissions to access it?
Are you sure the path the stick is under is the one you posted?
If the process that's trying to access the stick is running as a user other than root, make sure that user is added to the "dialout" group or whatever Ubuntu uses for serial access.
how to check it
How are you even running HA on Ubuntu?
Are there any recommendations for SSR or power relay boards for home assistant? I'm stumbling across multiple Kincony IoT products that are advertised for use with home assistant... Being reluctant, wanted to seek suggestions / opinions about Kincony products
Why reluctant?
we are trying things out here, yes HA works on a ubuntu server, sorry for the restraint my english is not so good
@zealous dune: I'm not seeing many forums using or recommending it... Hence...
In my research so far, haven't come across major issues reported either... Hence...
The confusion
Interesting...
Lucky for you there are no alternatives to those kinds of boards so you don't really have a choice
And it's not a piece of kit an average smart home enthusiast buys
I'm trying to close a requirement in haste, as a stop-gap arrangement... My actual plan is to design a prototype & once tested, send it for manufacturing...
Thus, looking for a modular, out of the box board / pieces I can put together
@zealous dune: something close to this, is my end goal, but I feel it'll be a lot of time n effort right now... Me working a full time job, plus managing my house renovation
Yes a lot of both
I have a couple of Kincony boards and see nothing alarming in them
Model numbers pls?
I'm not sure if I should go with all in one? Or the standalone relay modules as sent short while ago
I don't know, the ones with 4 and 8 relays
Okay.. 👍🏻
Never sure where to ask my questions but I’m building a home and the HVAC guy is asking me how the Honeywell T-10s integrate with HA. Specifically he’s asking does HA get wired to the heating and cooling units or do they get wired to the thermostat. Since I’ve never had a smart home and I am still waiting on my HA yellow pre order I’m not sure what to tell him. Could I get advice here?
Typically it doesn't get wired to anything, but rather HA controls the thermostat over whatever wireless protocol the thermostat supports.
If you haven't confirmed how your thermostat integrates with HA, I wouldn't automatically assume it is even possible. Research your specific device.
From what it looks like that integrates with some honeywell "app", which might not even integrate with HA. (but I don't really know)
I think the Zwave Honeywell T6 is a popular one for local control.
Looks like the T10s do HomeKit, which might work well & autodetects in HA. But to answer your HVAC guy's questions, the thermostat is what gets wired to the heating/cooling units. HA then integrates with the thermostat using its internet connection, z-wave, zigbee, or whatever
In my mind I thought this had to be the answer but wasn’t sure.
the only time you'd have HA semi-directly wired to it is if you were building your own thermostat with temperature sensors to detect, relays to connect the wires as appropriate, and some integration in HA to do the thermostat part (generic_thermostat or otherwise). But that's an advanced usage and probably not recommended anyway, haha
Thanks. I ordered Yellow almost a year ago. Was certain I’d have it by now. But that’s a topic for a different channel. Anyway, thank you
Yeah I'd say so. I think the common term for that is "dry contact".
You'll see that term mentioned with a lot of relays.
Are you going to have 4 independent relays to control all 4 features?
I'd assume yes.
Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but I'm putting together a NodeMCU controlled LED strip for outside use. The strip is 12v so I've got a 12v 5 amp power supply. The connectors on the strip itself are (I'm guessing) 20 gauge wire? Is it safe to run 20gauge wire from the PSU to the strip? I've seen online that 5 amps should really be lower gauge, but even if I wired 16 gauge from the PSU to the LED strip, the wires on the strip connector is still the higher gauge. Is this something I should be concerned about?
#diy-archived is probably the better place to ask
If I need to run 12VDC 20A through a 20 foot cable how do I choose my wire? Is there a calculator to help me decide the gauge and/or other properties? If i find I need 14 Gauge wire does it matter if it is 14 Gauge "speaker" wire or "Power" wire?
Finally, any recommendations for good wire and...
Is it possible to only use the thread radio in the SkyConnect? I like my current zigbee coordinator and Zigbee to MQTT setup.
install thread firmware
because it sucks 😄
Thanks for the help. Reading through that thread I think it is probably to early to even think about Thread
Guess a 2nd power input to the strip will fix that?
They all have a topic to help you 😉
but 2nd input should be enough, up to 75% it is nice and even
I was using a ZEN15 zwave plug to monitor my gas dryer's start/stop. We recently got a really nice electric dryer for free from my brother in law and no longer use 120v outlet - any ideas for a 240v smart plug that will integrate for cycle status monitoring?
I've looked for a few things but only saw in-line monitoring option on zwave, would need to splice it between the breaker and the outlet
under the oracle virtual box the zigbee usb stick is not recognised anyone an idea
Guys what video doorbell would you suggest for my mom's apartment? I'm in USA, budget is somewhere around $50, and wifi
is there an HA requirement?
Nah she doesn't have HA
@gloomy spoke ?
Does she have HomeKit or any other smart platform?
Nope just wifi
Is this one any good?
https://a.co/d/dRM2u3I
Make your home a smart home with Arlo's wired ring doorbell with camera. See a person from head to toe or a package on the ground with 180-degree view. Get a clearer picture with detailed HD with HDR video ensuring you can see even in low light or bright conditions. Connects directly to Wi-Fi wit...
yay or nay for HAOS?
Yay
Tho the N100 based on may be more fun when you want to do virtualization and run plex
If all they want is a video doorbell without any smart home requirements, Arlo would be decent but has a cloud sub required for recording
Not bad of a deal
Do you know of any similar that don't require some bullshit like that?
Istfg there are no non-greedy companies anymore
Ummm I have a Reolink one that can record to a SDCARD and doesn’t have a cloud fee required
This one?
https://a.co/d/0tSe9e1
2023 New Release - Reolink Video Doorbell Camera (WiFi Version) This wired WiFi doorbell camera has 5MP resolution.Together with 180° diagonal, it will be much easier to catch more surrounding details. Supporting both 5GHz and 2.4GHz WiFi, you can choose the ideal one. For the installation, you c...
Yeah that’s the one I have!
I use the Ethernet port instead of WiFi but it works well
How is it powered?
Ik it's wired but what if you don't have existing doorbell wires?
They (Amazon) does sell little outlet to doorbell transformers that plug into your wall
If you wanna get hella fancy I believe they have a POE version of that doorbell too
hi all i am lookint to get some smart stuff for the house , morespecifically reducing energy costs
i want a smart radiator thermostat that 1) does not need the internet ! 2) works with HA
theres a sale on amazon UK at the moment and im wondering what are some great deals to get , ive found these two on sale and was wondering if anyone with experience could guide me on these ? thank you (btw i dont have any experience with HA but im looking to get it onto my server , mainly worried about reducing energy costs so if there is some eco system with temp sensors etc im quite interested)
It will be about 6 radiators in 4 rooms, if theres other better options please feel free to let me know ! and any additional accessories i need like thermostats for rooms etc. budget needs to be resonable as i need to think will it ever pay back itself after the investment im doing
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Radiator-Thermostat-installation-KE100/dp/B0BKQWGSMC/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aqara-Thermostat-Thermostatic-Geofencing-Compatible/dp/B0B6DTSGSJ/
itll be about 6 radiators in 4 rooms, if theres other better options please feel free to let me know ! and any additional accessories i need like thermostats for rooms etc. budget needs to be resonable as i need to think will it ever pay back itself after the investment im doing
Yeah I saw that but my mom doesn't have poe
What input voltage does the reolink need? Seems like they don't think that's important enough info to put on the Amazon page -_-
On their main website it says “12-24VAC 50/60hz, DC 24V”
Ah ok cool thanks
if u want a good doorbell with no cloud nonsense go ubiquiti (but has a high cost of entry )
i use dahua for doorbell. it works perfectly with home assistant and symfonisk (for the sound). also i use it in frigate for recording
Yeah I think if I told my mother/grandmother that they needed a cloudkey (at minimum) + the doorbell they'd tell me to pound sand and buy a nest 😅
I use the N100 one with HAOS, runs great, had to put another thermal pad on the nvme, bluetooth does not get recognised in HAOS
im sure you guys get this all the time. have any recommendations for an individual LED addressable LEDW strip at 12v and a wifi controller that matches?
preferably something at 60. and i can get for cheap from aliexpress
i was looking at sk6812 but i had some issues finding a controller to match
why? it uses the same controller as ws2812
any controller with esp32, quinled being the best
how many led's?
about 2 meters at 60 per m
nothing for that cheap, you can make your own with an esp32 and some components
arg i was hoping not to. im fine with wiring and coding esp32s but i want to stay away from mains voltage
good because there is no mains voltage, its 12v
ha ohh yeah i forgot the power supply manages that
long day at work
..
too bad i was hoping to find something like this
just wanted something plug and play for a change. especially for the kitchen
get the athom wled controller
Athom's controllers are decent ime. This one will work with the strip you're looking at.
https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-2812b-led-strip-controller
thanks guys
Hi all, not sure if putting this here or in automations would be the best place. I’m looking to put a TV outside as summer approaches here. Thinking of building a cabinet of sorts that either lowers from the ceiling (to protect the tv in winter / when not in use ) has anyone done this ? If not from the ceiling a wall mount with doors that would open on command ?
Where would I start hardware wise. Happy to wire solder and build need a starting point
Sounds kinda #diy-archived to me
https://www.iconnect-group.com/Fold-down-ceiling-lift-systems/ << These things definitely exist
TV LIFT ICONNECT PROJECTOR liFT ICONNECT
Undoubtedly horribly expensive
just sharing my experience with the Aqara door contact sensor, while testing on my desk it worked correctly with the magnet on both sides of the sensor, but as soon as I mounted it on the door, it stopped working, after some more tests on the door I came to the conclusion that when mounted on a metal door, it will only work correctly with the magnet on a certain side of it, so test before you stick it in place
Metal is known to cause problems with contact sensors, and anything using RF (Zigbee, Z-Wave, Thread, etc)
well, it didn't seem to bother a fibaro zwave contact sensor
I had to change that one since I move to HA and went all zigbee, replaced with this Aqara one, which works great, but only with this little issue
Different frequency may have helped, though I've got some Aqara sensors on my metal garage door and they've been fine - with a router only a few meters in line of sight though
I'd definitely expect 2.4G vs 900M to make a difference
It's kinda amazing what you can get away with at low frequencies
do you guys know of any way to extend the zigbee network by ethernet? I have a network setup in one place and I would like to extend a few hundred meters. I do have a fiber that goes to that second location
you can't "extend" it, you can create a new zigbee network where that coordinator connects via Ethernet
meaning a new coordinator in the 2nd location. would both be controllable by one HA instance?
Also, we have a #zigbee-archived channel 😉
You'd need to run another Zigbee stack, such as Zigbee2MQTT (or a second instance of it) to run two meshes
thank you
anyone with some advice on this? thanks
Zigbee stuff tends to have a better battery life than WiFi stuff, so Aqara over TP-Link
in any case Aqara over TPlink
You'd also need to build your mesh for Zigbee though, so buy some Zigbee routers if you don't already have some
thanks, to make the system actually energy efficient, i guess i need to get temp sensors and put them in all rooms ?
so need to get a zigbee usb to plug into my unraid server, and then have to get another one to mesh it ?
also is there other alternatives to the aqrva, seems great but for £40 a pop bit pricy
Cheap, or good, pick one 😉
No, that one isn't
#zigbee-archived can guide you
For Zigbee routers buy Innr plugs, they're awesome
Also research if you could profit from a ethernet/PoE coordinator. They are not that cheap though.
i checked poe zigbee things
they are so dam expensive
would have been ideal ive got poe switch and cables could have put that in the middle of the house
You're going to spend way more on the rest of your smart home, £80 for a good coordinator is peanuts
You don't necessarily have to power them via ethernet
£200 for radiators . £80 is a substantial % of 200
why do i need smart plugs ?
To form the mesh
Point to point range between two Zigbee devices is maybe 6 to 8 meters
eh... u cant just use one usb cable connected to the server?
No
do u run radiator vavles yourself, does it actually save significant money ?
hmm i dont really have any empty rooms
We have the advantage of zoned heating - upstairs and downstairs - plus whether certain rooms need heat or not is known well in advance (eg the guest room)
Manually adjusting a couple of radiator valves a few times a year is no big deal
i guess thats true, will have to think about that as houses in the uk are trypically very small and usually all of the rooms are in use
https://notenoughtech.com/home-automation/is-sonoff-trv/ has some good reviews and details on their experiences
If some of our rooms were more intermittently used, or we only had a single zone, then smart valves would be a no-brainer
I'll probably still go down that route at some point, just because, but I'm not expecting any meaningful savings
thanks will take a look
really interesting stuff with all this smart home stuff but just need to determine if its all worth it in the end. if i had a big house would havegone for this in a heart beat
You'll probably save more with smart lighting, though the savings there are lower if you've moved over to LEDs
(I know my parents still have quite a few CFLs still)
all the hosue is leds and its become a habit to turn of lights when not in use
but in uk gas prices are crazyyy high thats why i was looking into heating espeically with winter around the corner
Just turn the temperature down 1C 😛
We did that a few years back, the house doesn't feel much colder but it made a big difference to the bills
kind of in the limits of how low we can put it down before it starts to become uncomftable
Just put a jumper on then 
Agreed though, I'm banned from turning it down futher as the wife would turn into an ice cube
The main value of smart valves is in being able to shut off heat in rooms you're not using
yup i think i might get like two for downstairs because when we all upstairs in rooms no point heating all of downstairs followed by a a single zigbee usb thing as my server is downstairs
And at least then you can measure the impact
Just keep in mind that you may still need at least one Zigbee router
yeah as i wanna use with HA on the server gotta have some sort of usb zigbee router i assume
If you're in an older house with brick walls the direct range drops off fast
Well, see the links above on how Zigbee works
You need a coordinator and routers
Modern build here and I get 8 to 10 meters through the plasterboard walls, down to 6 in some spots, and about one meter through the block wall
I actually have two devices either side of the wall at an angle and despite being less than a meter apart they can't see each other
if there were some sort of mains outlets i would have gone for wifi thermostats case my hosue is brick walls and it was an absolute mission to get ethernet upstairs
glad thats done finally got some stable internet
Any great deals this week on sensors/deadbolts that work with thread/matter? Closing on home next week and starting fresh. Hoping to use matter/thread/wifi for absolutely everything. Got tired of intermittent zwave issues in last home.
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Oh, and stay the hell away from Matter and Thread 😛
you don't really want Thread right now
(see all the dev feedback in #matter-archived and #thread-archived to get a picture of how fucked it all is)
Zigbee FTW
or in the next 12 months probably 😄
The devs commented a while back that it'd likely take 2 to 3 years for Matter and Thread to be as stable and mature as Zigbee and Z-Wave already are
just to be sure, anyone using TP-Link Tapo P110 intelligent power socket? Is it fully supported in HA?
ok, it's supported. thanks @winged knoll
Which means it will likely take 5-6 years from now for me to even consider implementing it
Sounds about right to me
Anybody got some experience with using a shelly 2pm as a shutter control?
Hello #hardware-archived
I've been looking up for a strange trouble
Red is green and green is red, I don't know why !!
I'm not sure if I'm in the right place, I try
Thanks y'all !!
What on earth are you talking about?
RGB LED most likely
Agreed, but it's always nice to actually have the whole question
Pffft, wrong platform man
If I wanted only half the question I'd be at work 😛
I'm preparing to route some shielded USB cabling through my walls so that my transmitters (Skyconnect, Zooz 800 Series Z-Wave, Startek Bluetooth Adapter) can be placed in the center of my house and far away from my HAOS server in the basement.
I have some really long powered and unpowered USB 3 cabling already. I was planning on using that, but I am seeing some concerns about interference. Should I order a long USB 2 extension instead?
You need active cables for that
I have some long active cables. Thats what I meant by powered. Sorry for the confusion.
They are either 50 or 100ft cables. I should only need 25-35 ft.
how do i need to create my usb drive to be visible in HA to put backups on it ?
I just received a pair of Sonoff S31 outlets pre-flashed to Tasmota. I've plugged one in and I don't see how to get HA to see it.
- I've got the Tasmota and MQTT integrations added to my HA installation.
- I've got the mosquitto docker running on my server and the MQTT integration will send & receive a test message per the docs.
Where do I go from here? Is there a guide that I haven't found to getting a new Tasmota device recognized by HA?
The Tasmota docs say "Tasmota devices’ MQTT setting configured to communicate with the MQTT broker." How do I communicate with the device to set it's MQTT settings?
Ah! I found that it's like a Shelly - it creates its own WiFi hotspot that I have to connect to.
Thanks for being my rubber duck...
Ahhh... Once I've got it on my WiFi and have filled out enough of the config to give it a name, it just magically appears as a device under the Tasmota integration. Very nice!
Hi everyone,
Where can I buy drivers for LED lamps (220v) with CCT and dimming?
ZigBee, Israel.
Thanks!
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
HA controlled theater system soooon
I recently got a Synology, would it make sense to / would it be simple to migrate my Raspberry Pi installation of HA to a docker container on the Synology?
Do you run HAOS at the moment? Which pi? Which synology?
I've been neglecting the whole backing up and upating thing.... I'm currently running core-2022.4.1 on a Pi 4, and my Synology is a DS920+
It should certainly be faster and, depending on your current storage, more reliable: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/4297vs3667/BCM2711-vs-Intel-Celeron-J4125
Migrating should be a simple copy & paste and perhaps modifying permissions. You could also run HAOS in a VM if you so desire and import your backup
anyone know a good underfloor heating controller that works with home assistant. Needs to also have a physical controller. Atm i have a ProWarm ProTouch Touchscreen (non-wifi)
Question regarding monoprice whole house audio amplifiers (like this one: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10761). Hopefully someone will have the answer but the unit I linked comes with a wall mounted control (six of them) that are connected by cat 5 wire back to the actual amp. There are six of these wall mounted controls for a six zone amp. My question is this: Are the wall mounted controls related to a zone? If true, that would mean that whatever room the control is mounted in is bound to remain in the same zone for life. Am I correct? I see from others that the monoprice works well with HA and that a computer can connect to it and perform functions that appear to be equivalent to the wall mounted control. I dont know that I want to mount the wall controls because 1) I don't want to lock a room in a given zone as I'd like to be able to adjust down the road and 2)if I can perform the same function(s) with HA, then I don't need them. Thoughts?
Just got my order from cloudfree.shop. Good prices, quick shipping. Looks a lot like grey-market imports. The Aqara boxes are labeled completely in Chinese and the instruction books don't have any English in them at all. The humidity sensor I've installed seems to work just fine, though...
In the US, what kind of devices and stuff can I get, not too expensive, cap about $30-$50, WiFi or BLE or SmartThings or Google assistant support, that could help me continue growing my home
I’ve recently been cobbling stuff weve had and inherited from my grandparents and putting it together into home assistant, I’m interested in mare
Are there Tasmota LED strips where I can also change the brightness? I know there are the LED modules but I can't find any. (Amazon.de Germany)
Tasmota smart light switch flush-mounted Nous L13T - esp8266 smart home switch with timer, WiFi switch, radio switch LED light relay 230 V - MQTT Home Assistant ioBroker Google Home Alexa 2.4GH https://amzn.eu/d/8xz3FMk
But I think I can't change the brightness
- U're right, forgot to tell it was for Led... Ouhhhhhhh, what a shame !!!!
- If it's not here, you may help me by, at least, telling me WHERE I can find help
Do you remember the purpose of IRC and stuff ?
Ciao bambino
You ask for help so be happy that anyone is even replying because you aren't paying anyone so you aren't entitled to receiving any help.
If you weren't aware it was a joke from @zealous dune as people always ask half questions.
If you're so smart it wouldn't take lots of brain power to either swap cables or pins in the config
You're going to have to provide more details for someone to help you. Like what device, what firmware it's running, whether the device has worked properly in the past, stuff like that. No one here is getting paid to ask probing questions and draw that information out of you. This is a community support platform and no one here is a mind reader. You've got to at least halfway try to help us help you.
Is this here a good RGB controller for HA? Seems like I can do RGBW and brightness controls etc
https://www.tasmota.shop/gb/lights/32-tasmota-high-power-rgbw-light-strip-controller.html
LED strip controller with WiFi interface and TASMOTA software allows you to control individual R G B W, max. 16A, power 5-12VDC.
all LED controllers can change brightness
that reply was not for you, you weren't even there during the conversation but thanks for the rant
all RGB+ controllers running Tasmota can also do RGB only, you just remove other channels from the configuration
My reply also wasn't towards you but towards Zale
as was mine but ok
discord is hard sometimes
My point was that we all should be friendly towards each other as we are all here helping each other for free.
yes and i had nothing against that point at all so i don't know why this conversation is still going
🫶
Do they also monitor power consumption?
no
Are smartplugs supporting power monitoring or is there some module I can connect to see the power draw?
smartplugs that support power monitoring do and there are power monitoring only devices such as SPM01
How accurate are those?
define accurate
If something draws 10W does it show +-1W or is it +-1W at 100W?
they're accurate to the decimals
Good 👍 thanks
pretty open ended question and frankly you're shooting yourself in the foot only looking at wifi/ble/cloud...
what kinda stuff do you recommend
Ig as long as it works
it depends
usually zigbee and zwave are the best route
or wifi, depends on the specific device
personally it would be cool if it had support with Google assistant so I could control it via my g home too
Not sure if the hardware channel is the right place to ask, but can anyone recommend a door chime? Currently on my 3rd Aeotec Siren 6, they keep dying. Has to be a completely local connection, no accounts or cloud.
Yeah one of the cool things about HA is that basically anything you can connect with HA, you can expose to Big G via the Google Assistant integration or Nabu Casa subscription if you want to, even if it doesn't say "works with Google" or whatever on the box.
Athom is a decent choice for premade stuff, I have one of those controllers (running wled not tasmota but it's the same hardware) and it's pretty good.
was actually going to ask for pre-built ledstrips, and if athom pre-builts were good intros, sounds like yes
They are and the ESP32 voice reactive is actually excellent value
the led strip itself is irrelevant usually, you just buy the controller and whatever addressable led strip you want (ws2812b, sk6812, etc)
you'll probably end up with a better led strip from btf lighting than you will from a packaged strip + controller from athom
Not exactly whatever since it depends on the controller supporting strip voltage
And pinout
wled vs tasmota, etc are all esp32 reflashable i assume also?
controller + psu + led strip? i assume
I think I tossed a bunch of PSU's from shucked external HDD units, but probably not enough power
Athom's are at least, the athom controller I got from Amazon came with the Homekit firmware and I reflashed it to wled OTA. They're esp8266 with 2mb of flash though, just fyi so you know what firmware to use.
Its also recommended you upload the .gz version of the bin file due to the size restrictions when you do OTA updates
they have multiple models not just the 2mb version
that's common for the bulbs tho
Oh speaking of the bulbs I was going to ask you about those. I just ordered one and I noticed they warn you about how there's nothing in the open source firmware to stop you from burning them out, and most of the bad reviews seem to be people who have done that. Are those people just idiots or is there something I should know to avoid that?
I haven’t done that
I asked aircoookie a few years ago and he said it’s probably possible but just don’t put all three sliders at full
Which bulbs? I only have the gu10
if they're RGBWW and you set all to max you'll roast them for sure
Rather than dedicated hardwaare, I just use an MP3 of a doorbell (located on the HA server), played through my Sonos speakers.
Works with Google Home (and undoubtedly a lot of other things) too, although colleague of mine said Alexa devices are a no-go without HTTPS and a trusted SSL cert on the server.
target:
device_id:
- a8c03fee8be878f1b1e8fbfc302d7868
data:
media_content_type: music
media_content_id: http://10.2.20.17:8123/local/doorbell-1.mp3```
Ok so it is just those people being dumb and not reading.
I'm actually playing with a device i built for that right now, based on a Pi; unfortunately I bought a buggy speaker HAT and it pops every time audio is played so it's kinda annoying
I guess another option could be any old-timey 24VAC doorbell chime and a smart relay to activate it.
My lazy solution was in large part because our house had no doorbell at all, going with camera doorbell only wired to power + speakers I already had to play the chime seemed easier than running more cable.
I ordered the 15W E27 bulb to replace the 15W Cree bulb that's in my living room lamp because, being Tuya, it gives me grief periodically. It's a shame you can't reflash Tuya stuff anymore because other than that it's a nice bulb.
I’ve heard those are super bright but also physically large
I saw that, I assume it's probably about the same size as the one I've got given the similar style and specs.
When you get into higher wattages with smart bulbs they start to get pretty big and heavy. The 12W Gledopto Zigbee bulb I have in my front porch light is about the same size.
Presuming you mean this one? https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/15w-color-bulb-for-esphome
Says 80×80×145mm, although to be fair it's not remotely clear if that's the size of the bulb, or the packaging 🙂
Pre configed IOs plug and playPre flashed before assemblingBuild in ESP8285 chip with 2M flash For Yaml, please visit:https://github.com/athom-tech/athom-configs/blob/main/athom-rgbct-light.yaml Color: RGB+Warm+Cold White Color Temperature: 3000-6000K Brightness: 1400 lumens Voltage: 110V~250V Power: 15W Base: E27 Material: Aluminium+Plastic W...
And the equivalent 1600lm Hue bulb says 72×210mm, but again, could be the size of the box. Definitely in the ballpark though
Oh no, definitely the box. 67×130 for the Hue. But still getting up there.
Yeah I'm not worried about it, it's a floor lamp where the main lamp faces upward, I think that specific style is called "torchiere", so there's plenty of room for a large bulb and no concerns about ventilation.
Heh, yeah I have a couple of up-firing lamps in the lounge, actually ended up putting a LIFX "Night Vision" BR30 in one of them. Bulb was cheap, fits the lamp quite well because of the long neck, and I quite like the extra IR light at night for the security camera
Although that said, more light just highlights the mischief the cats get up to in the middle of the night :\
I just put 4 of these in my bedroom; it's absurd that they're only about $21 USD for 4 of them https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805647999654.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Lol, apparently my "first time customer" price would be 93 cents each.
Does anyone use the mono price 6 channel amp?
Has anyone ever heard of a smart wall socket that is only 2-prong? I am looking for one that doesn't have/need a ground pin.
^US style
Better?
Naturally, it would need to have local control.
Also, on another topic, I think I flashed the wrong OTA firmware onto both of my Shelly Plus 1 units. I can't figure out how to connect wires to the io pins. Everything I've tried is either too flimsy, or too thick.
What are some good speakers that I can connect to Home Assistant / Google Home?
I like the design of Ikea's line but I know they're Sonos-powered and I don't know if that'll affect compatibility due to the Google and Sonos lawsuit.
I've also heard decent things about the Google Nest Audio and I feel like it'll fit the feel with my other Google Home devices.
What do you use/recommend?
I already broke the plastic housing around the first unit.
Check out the web cast from today called "year of the voice, part 4". It has some examples near the end of the video.
It's on youtube.
I'll look it up, thanks
do you have a link? I look up that title and only get stuff about the tv show, The Voice
I should point out, that "good speakers" is subjective. It depends on your use case/requirements.
We’re building an open voice assistant that does not share your data. Join us for our fourth progress update. You don't want to miss this one.More about Year...
I dont care for super high quality but somewhat loud/room filling for any aparment
Thanks
I mean, I assume you want it for voice control, not playing music.
Buy a three and cut it off?
I have a Google Nest Mini and Lenovo Smart Clock + I'm getting a Pixel Tablet soon so I don't need voice control on it.
A plus yes but not strictly required
And it will be for playing music
Maybe, but would it still work.
Kinda curious why you need one without ground
If it's for playing music, then it probably doesn't need ha compatibility.
Several 2-pronged LED lamps hanging in the house, connected to 2-pronged extension cords.
Can't plug 3-pronged plug into 2-pronged outlets, unless you modify the device as mentioned earlier.
I want to be able to use Google home to play music on it from YT music
A cheater plug, AC ground lifter or three-prong/two-prong adapter is an adapter that allows a NEMA 5-15P grounding-type plug (three prongs) to connect to a NEMA 1-15R non-grounding receptacle (two slots).: 112 They are needed to allow appliances with 3-wire power cords to plug into legacy ungrounded (two slot) receptacles found in older buildin...
High key shouldn't use those
Unless you know how to properly use that grounding tab shown
Yes true.
These might work, as long as the WiFi plug doesn't require the ground to be active.
afaik nothing "requires" the ground, it's not a part of the circuit. it's only there for your safety
If a device converts AC to DC, there is a chance that it uses the ground plug
I had a device stop working because the ground plug fell off
Perhaps. You're probably correct. I don't want to assume so however.
Also, those devices can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. The original intention was for those to be used on outlets where the center screw has a dedicated ground. The Ground pin is wired to the metal loop on the other end.
If you use one on, say, a metal toaster, and the live wire comes loose inside, it won't be your breakfast that becomes toast.....
I've been able to use one of those cheater plugs with a Zooz Z-Wave plug (ZEN15). Damned old wiring we haven't been able to update yet
In terms of the "will it still work" aspect those work, anyway
1600lm vs 800lm HUE bulb - catching up messages
I might look into using some Sonoff NSpanels for their relays.
I have one already, but I'm not using the relays.
regarding ground, I lived in the USA, in multiple houses with 2 prong only plugs (no ground), and and used multiple AC-DC adapters that only have two prongs them (laptop PSU for example). The ground is for safety. I've also traveled to EU countries and used plugs that didn't have grounds (but weren't supposed to have many amps through them). The UK doesn't count, cuz "health and safety".
Dang, that is a long boi
sadly that 1600 stopped responding to hue messages, and every attempt to re-pair it seems to fail, yet the on/off function still works, so it's now just a $25 1600 lumen dumb bulb
I have a hue dimmer, can't repair/reset it
Is there such a thing as a smart fluorescent bulb? I have a fluorescent tube above my sink I'd like to smarten. It's in a fixture and everything so I can't easily swap it out (renter)
Best bet I can think of is a smart switch in the wall (which I also like to avoid as a renter), but wondering if there's any other alternatives.
I just bought a new Construction house, the house is all pre-wired for security but no hardware installed. Would it better to go with Konnected for a base or something else? And I have no idea where to start what sensors and things to buy for the actual system.
I'm in Canada, zwave preferred. Willing to spend on quality.
maybe - https://us.switch-bot.com/products/switchbot-bot - it's been mentioned here, but no personal use on my part
Hello guys i am looking for a smart light bulb that has warm and cold light control and i want it to only run locally. It can be on wifi zigbee or z wave does not matter to me. It also should remember the last state so the lights in my house dont all turn on after a power outage. Any recommendations? Thanks
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Do you know how to use Shelly Pro 4PM and Shelly Pro 3 inputs? Can I just connect 230V ouput from device I want to use to control the relay(s)?
Oh yeah, I actually have a few but didn't think about it. Thanks! Decent option
Hellohello! I need something like the hue wall switch modules to be able to turn my dumb wall switches into smart ones. I don't need the relay functionality and i'm looking for something reasonably cheap (10 eur each?) available in europe. I don't have a neutral wire in my boxes and even though they should be standard size seem to be a little tight. I've tried some cheap tuya switches but wasn't able to wire them up (forgot i didn't have a neutral wire and was going to bypass the relay) and i recently ordered the new sonoff s-mate 2 extremes which were functionally what i needed but seem a bit bulky and i'm not sure what protocol they use so can't get it to talk to home assistant.
And while we're on it anyone have any suggestions for a decent energy meter? My meter doesn't have a P1 port but does have a blinking LED that could be used potentially
Sonoff has the mini2 in both ZigBee and wifi which do not require a neutral wire
It's probably the closest you get in small size and price, even tho I don't know about the durability
For metering larger networks or appliances, clamp style one like the shelly em3 seem like a good buy
There's a channel for #yellow-archived if you have questions about it.
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
If you have problems with the Blue or your installation see #installation-archived.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://www.codepile.net/ or https://paste.debian.net/ to share code or logs
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
thank you.
not hardware, but why is there a .11 build for HA before november?
ok, just wondering, since for the couple years of tinkering, the releases have been YYYYY.MM.patch
And they still are
Great Scott!
🙂
Does anyone know if the new Lutron pico paddle switches are supported in home assistant? I just purchased two of them and they show in HA but they don’t have any visible controls and I couldn’t find a blueprint for them.
Could you recommend something better maybe?
Define "better"
Is it possible to use a Hue Dimmer Switch without a Hue bridge? Will it integrate directly with HA without the bridge?
I picked up one pretty cheaply but when I go to add it, I select Philips -> Hue and it asks for a host name to manually configure a Hue Bridge
If you don't have a Hue bridge you add it through Zigbee.
You need either a hue bridge or a zigbee coordinator.
thanks, I was expecting to be able to added it using zigbee (I have a coordinator). It doesn't show up when searching for zigbee devices. I'll swap the battery for a new one
I don't know if it will just "show up", I expect you have to do some secret button press to pair it.
Thanks, it just showed up after I pressed some buttons randomly!
That works too 😂
Finding conflicting evidence on Google when searching, I'm considering moving from haos in a VM on my pve8 to hass supervised in a debian lxc on my pve8 still. Reading mostly issues passing hardware, but I already arranged for ZigBee and Bluetooth to be over the network so no hardware needs to be passed... Any insightful advice why I shouldn't attempt it ?
Doing this to lower demand on resources and regain management of my OS without loosing add-on support as mqtt, z2m and nodeRed are for me needed and best tied to home assistant. Liking the integrated upgrade of these including backups...
How are you lowering demand on resources with supervisor?
You might want to read this: https://github.com/home-assistant/architecture/blob/master/adr/0014-home-assistant-supervised.md
I doubt resource usage would be measurably lower with supervisor+docker vs haos
Im hoping this is a general hardware channel and not specific to home assistant like a rpi or whatnot :p but basically...... I was looking into installing Shelly 2pm for my light swiitches and replacing my current switch with a reset/retractive one so that there is no confusion about the state of the switch when I toggle it using HA
Not only do I not have a neutral wire (I dont think) - which ill figure something out for that, even if i have to destroy all my walls, i have another problem with my current 4-way switch setup
How daheck do I connect that XD its all open switches im guessing (the reset ones), I could use 3 shellies but I dont want that many wifi devices for 1 light lol
and if i connect all switches together to 1 shelly then idk if thats even legal lol
lutron casetta (no neutral) and/or swap to smart lights, and tape over the switches? 🙂
Hi all. I have a small 8 inch tablet in a clean mount on my wall. Because of expansion of the dashboards I would like a larger screen in a clean mount with a high resolution. Any ideas what would be a good combination? Needs te be clean and wires can go in the wall.
A 10 inch
I don’t know anything about these but such devices often appear work by generating an event you have to trigger on.
Hmm dont think thats gonna work. I need 220V versions, diva lutron dimmer is def hot 🤤 but yeh sadly cant use that + I want to do this in all the rooms, i cant just tape over the switches, how will my family turn on the lights lol
Im going to install the neutral wire someday, its just a question of installing shellies in a 4-way configuration, thats all 😅
haha ok, i think my question should have been, are there any good combinations of tablets with housings to put on the wall? More than 10 inch is also an option.
Hello ! I have a thermostat that controls 3 relays that control 3 floor heating zones.
I want to switch to a connected thermostat, with Netatmo in mind.
My question is do I need 3 thermostat for this?
Or is it possible to replace only the main one that will control all 3 zones equally ?
I can share pictures of the current installation
U said it's decent, for me decent is above ok and below good...
Oh. I mean like I said I have one and it works great, I haven't had any problems with it. It's a LED controller and it does what I want it to. I guess as far as prebuilt, preflashed hardware goes the quinled controllers might be a step up from athom which is a step up from some of the more sus Chinese brands, but I don't have any personal experience with those.
There are giant touchscreen kiosks with android built in that I’ve seen used before. You can 3d print a case or reuse a picture frame etc.
Hello! I just got a RPi and installed HA and some addons like Terminal and so on.
I get the basics in using HA but I need help getting started with my Tellstick. I googled for two days but just dont get it. I installed the Addon, and the service is running. I added the tellstick: host: core-tellstick in the configuration.yaml and configured a switch checking the house-number in Telldus Live! app
But how do I check if the Tellstick receives any information. The Tellstick is connected via network cable and via USB in the RPi. How is it supposed to be connected? I just connected both to try it. And how does HA finds it just by using tellstick: host: core-tellstick and a port?
This might be stupid questions but I just need help getting started, and the hardware part is not explained anywhere form Tellsticks perspective.
Thanks!
So I bought a Moes smart light (zigbee), it is now no longer switching on. How do I know whether the light has bust (it was working previously) or whether it is switched to permenantly off in home assistant?
you install motion sensors to trigger lights on/off, you install smart soft switches either on top of the existing switches or next to. ignoring the existing switches. I've been doing that for a number of years in a rental, and just continued it in my new (to me) house I just bought. Adding neutral to all your switches may be cost/time prohibitive, but maybe your house has easy access to run the wires (mine in the US, does not, built in 1980).
Is Tuya stuff as much of a pain in the ass as it seems like? I'm looking at a few smart bulbs for a particular use case and they use Tuya.
Does anything happen at the wall switch?
I bought two tuya bulbs and one won't switch on. The other is pretty good though. Ultra configurable but also ultra complicated to get everything working as I have envisaged!
I switch the light on and off with the lamp switch and nothing happens. It was strange, it was previously on but not responding to HA commands, when I switched it on and off at the plug it just didn't switch back on again
It probably wouldn't hurt to try to reset the bulb via the switch, but it sort of sounds toast. I guess you don't know the default behavior for that bulb after power loss?
I have two bulbs, the other when I switch the power on and off switches back on...looking for the reset button now
There isn't going to be a button
Unless tuya bulbs are VERY different than other smart bulbs..
typically there is a particular reset pattern to flicking the light switch/power source for it
oh, by the switch you mean on the electrical lamp switch
yes, actually toggling the power supply 🙂
Tuya Zigbee can be decent. Tuya WiFi is generally best avoided unless you hate your future self.
Ah, I wasn't aware there was tuya zigbee as well. -.- Thanks.
Smart BR40 bulbs are very slim pickings, it seems.
I've had PAR38 bulbs recommended to me instead in here but they're more of a spotlight bulb than a BR40.
There's a lot of stuff that's Tuya under the hood, but branded something else
Moes for example
CR Smart home is another
thanks for the help but yup...I think it is toast!
Would still suggest trying to do a full reset just in case but if it is then I suggest a viiking funeral
Hey, what would be the best way to not have any smart home hardware not connect to chinese servers. are there any brands that are only local, i am looking for light bulbs specificly
full reset, you mean by cycling the on and off on the power supply, yup I've done that (it says 5 cycles in the manual, a bit vague but I've been pressing on and off lots of times at different delays and durations)
Zigbee bulbs are always local.
Any WiFi bulbs that come preloaded with wled, esphome, or tasmota will be fully local.
It is always a struggle for me to trigger a smart bulb's reset, but yes, that sounds right. Would expect some brief light if it wasn't toast at least before the firmware finishes firing up if it is returning to an off state.
toast!
Zigbee is the way
reason #3 or so why I switched to smart switches
you mean no more smart bulbs?
Do you know specifc brands that would work in zigbee.
I am in canada
Xiaomi, Linkind, Tradfri, Gledopto, and Innr are all good
So are Frient/Develco, and Hue
#zigbee-archived can help you make sensible choices
I will look at that then thanks!
Yes. I went down the smart bulb path at first because I didn't have neutral wires at my switch outlets but since i just wanted on/off. Colors still require neutral wires but these days you can get switches without neutral
also smart switches are cheaper/easier if you have issues with keeping a zigbee mesh stable in a high RF interference environment
in terms of the smart switches, what do you when you have a free standing lamp? Just use a zigbee plug?
I would either do a plug or a bulb in that case but I don't really use lamps personally
ok, yeah, I guess I can't dim with a plug so a bulb would be best. I like the freestanding lamps personally but that's just aesthetics in my home
If replacing the outlet itself is an option, you may want to look at that rather than adding a big wall wart, but yeah you're not gonna be dimming with a plug or outlet
so is reason 3 one of your six regrets? Out of interest what are the other 5?!
Hi,
I'm looking for recommended LED Zigbee drivers - CCT and dimming support.
For 220v, 50Hz, 7-15W spotlight.
Budget $10-$100 per unit.
Is there a website of all valid Zigbee drivers?
Thanks!
Hi. Is it possible to add gsm camera for my home assistant?
#zigbee-archived has a pinned message to help you
It’s not in my WiFi
#cameras-archived can help if you tell them more
if it's publically accessible, it should be easy to set up in HA, but yeah, #cameras-archived
Whether things like this are any good or not is another matter, but ZigBee dimmer in "smart plug" form factor is definitely a thing
https://jungoconnect.com/en/product/smart-dimmer-plug/
I'm very wary about those things, I have had two different brands fail on me in dramatic fashion, and not in cases where I'm pulling anywhere near 15 amps
Also if you have the kind of lamps that need big "filament" bulbs to not look stupid, there aren't a lot of choices of smart bulbs in the form factor
Plenty of small ones, but if you need the giant (like 6" diameter) kind, less options (not none)
That hue "g125" really does seem like the best bet for that situation
I don't like the look of the plugs! (but thank you for the link). Luckily my bulbs are well hidden under lampshades so they don't need to look pretty!
Yeah, all but one of mine are too
Also we've got the kind of hanging lights that if you don't need dimming, you can use one of these ridiculous things to get much more light
I don't know what Phillips were thinking, but sorta glad they were thinking it
beautiful!
It's 24W/2250lm too, so pretty much two normal light bulbs in one, but much more diffuse
how far does one suggest wifi, zigbee, and zwave "antennas" need to be apart from each other? i ask because i have a unifi AP in my ceiling and i want to get my zigbee and zwave antennas in the same vicinity and out of my basement
nice!
I haven't had much of an issue with them close together (with zigbee and z-wave at least) but there is something to the whole usb 3.0 ports putting out some interference it seems like, so I would use an extension cable if the host devices were supplied with them
I have both my zigbee and zwave devices zap strapped to either side of my server rack currently (19 inches apart) but I have had them within about an inch previously without issue
wifi might be another story
much louder than zigbee or zwave
3 ft should suffice
im thinking about putting the pc somewhere more central in my house because im still having issues with zigbee
Z-Wave is 900MHz so it's not likely to care about your access point even a little bit
USB 3.0 can cause your Zigbee devices to fully stop functioning. In this video we show this by moving a Zigbee device and Zigbee adapter next to USB 3.0 port and cable.
The demo is done with a Home Assistant SkyConnect and IKEA Tradfri remote but this affects all Zigbee sticks and devices.
To avoid interference, use a shielded USB 2.0 extensio...
that would allow me to put it in the kitchen
keep in mind that mesh topology means that you don't need the coordinator devices to be in the center of your home
no reason to not have the coordinators tucked away in your basement server rack as long as you have good stable repeaters to the rest of your home
yeah im aware but i gotta test it because of the interference on all the channels when i download the zigbee diagnostics
i just wanna try it and see if theres a better location thats less noisy than my basement homelab
i so want to believe that but i gotta try it myself
yeah the overall noise floor of where the coordinators live is a pretty valid concern
for example i got six bulbs outside in front of my house, and 2, randomly 2, will disconnect and miss commands
but the 4 that stay connected are fine
but they are LEGIT all a few feet from each other
it makes no damn sense
but the wife is like "shit aint workin bruh" and i cant figure it out
not sengled fyi
some zigbee devices don't act as repeaters and that could be a factor
yeah, but within 10 feet theres a router for sure, i got mains plugs everywhere
adding a device somewhere that does act as a repeater between the coordinators and that location may help
Adding a better router may help too
Some devices are good routers, some are really shit
not the most helpful vis there but two devices sure look like they've fallen off
"enable physics" is such a great caption for a checkbox
yeah
it was just meant to show that i have routers
i assume all the outliers are NOT routers
yeah tinkerer and a few others check my diagnostics the other day
i learned a bunch and about to take what i learned and run some anecdotal testing
like positioning the coordinators in different parts of the house and see what kind of readings i get now that i know how to read the diagnostics
my first move would probably be to place a device known to be good at routing near those lights and allow time for the network to reform around it
(and then never turn off power to it)
how does one initiate that? a reform or rebuild
there are ways in some coordinators to trigger it but generally it should do it smoothly
i tried to do the the whole "start with routers and build away from antennas" malarky but with this many devices it wasnt tenable
mesh connections forming to the strongest connection, etc
so i got a new PC for this in the mail today, gonna go work on that, then i got another ZBDongle-P from sonoff to do a firmware update on as per @winged knoll
One way is to power down the coordinator for about 30 minutes
yeah that i have heard of
then im gonna do a restore to the new PC and newly updated zigbee dongle
then im gonna light some candles and chant from fucking voodoo
Because you were too busy giggling like a child at "wiz" to take them seriously?
might've been too focused on trying to get zigbee or z-wave bulbs rather than wifi
but these are probably good enough even if they're not hue
hue being more or less the 'apple' in the smart bulb space
are they that much better than sylvania for example?
depends which sylvania bulbs you mean
they already ditched an entire smartbulb ecosystem once
zigbee ones
usually find them on sale too
the br30 ones, i know ur looking for br40 tho
philips has done the same, unsure what the situation is exactly with divesting hue but both are still going
Connect your SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Full Color 65W BR30 LED light bulb directly to your compatible ZigBee smart hub and bring your smart home lighting experience to the next level. Personalize your living space with over 16 million available colors to fit your mood. With adjustable white color te...
they don't do a BR40 bulb as far as I know
and the philips wiz site doesn't even show BR40 anymore, wonder if they are discontinued
$19.97 sounds like a clearance price
that extra 1.25 inches matter 😉
Things that end in 7 frequently are
I'm a little worried about them being able to hit wifi at all what with being in metal enclosures
not like zigbee or z-wave would be much better
arguably 900mhz better but
I've got lifx bulbs in metal lamps. They just have ESP8266 micros inside, work fine inside metal lamps
I always forget about lifx still being around, now there's the apple of smart bulbs
I bought them originally because everyone else was only making RGB bulbs, and I just wanted the warm/cool white
(this is 6 or so years ago, obviously not the case anymore)
Also just getting any smart bulbs at all with B22 bases back in the day wasn't exactly easy
Anyone have recommendations for a decent basic UPS? I don't need anything super fancy or high capacity, just something to keep my server online in the event of power flashes or until the whole house backup kicks in.
What OS is your server running?
while this might seem like a silly question given your ask, nearly every modern UPS has a USB port on it
in general I would say 'whatever is on sale, as long as the capacity is high enough, and it is APC, CyberPower, or any other reputable brand'
IMO APC's windows software is dogshit, though, and I would steer you to cyberpower on a windows box
but if it's some flavor of linux then anything is fine as you'd be running NUT or apcupsd
Debian
assuming that you're in the US, this is wirecutter's current pick - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARA51C/
A mini-tower UPS with line interactive topology, the CyberPower AVR Series CP900AVR provides battery backup (using simulated sine wave output) and surge protection for desktop computers, workstations, networking devices, and home entertainment systems. The CP900AVR uses Automatic Voltage Regulati...
I have a similar model and am quite happy with it
If you wanted to go really budget then maybe something like the amazonbasics 400va? if it's just a matter of until switchover then it might suffice as long as you're not going over 225w
on some units it is fairly easy to replace the batteries as well, so if you have an old UPS kicking around or one you can get for free/cheap, that's an option
At the moment, I'm testing the Pi 5 to get a generic Home Assistant instance on it, and it's interesting to say the least
anyone able to assist with an ESPHOME momentary switch question
I have wired a momentary switch to 3.3v and GPIO15
it basically sends two states to Home Assistant...OFF is pressed, on if not pressed
ideally want this to toggle a state
all the examples point to equally confused people 🙂
I have an Atmotube Pro air quality monitor with bluetooth. I can connect to it with my Mac and iPhone, so I know it's working, but I can't figure out how to connect it to Home Assistant. HAOS is running on a dedicated Chuwi mini-PC, and bluetooth is enabled, and so is passive scanning. I think there's supposed to be a text file that contains found bluetooth devices, but I can't locate it. Any ideas?
The Atmotube is unpaired
is there an ESPHOME discord channel?
the one of the website points to an expired link
Oh you already got served in general
Maybe the Atmotube is an unsupported device. I found instructions for adding a new device since the API is well documented, but I don't understand how adding a new .md file will allow a bluetooth connection. https://custom-components.github.io/ble_monitor/documentation#adding-a-new-device
Passively monitors BLE messages from Xiaomi Mijia BLE MiBeacon, Qingping, ATC, Xiaomi Scale, Kegtron and Thermoplus sensors.
I also have an Atmotube, let me know if you have any luck in setting it up
Do you guys use Nvidia shields? If so, do you login with your personal Google account? That seems a little scary, but all the posts online are a little old about that...
What's the scary part?
How much access it has to my personal stuff even tho it's a TV without a password
Same could be said for every Android device, that's why you have the option to use a different account
That was kinda my question
Is there a way to secure it with a personal account or do people just make a shield one
It's an Android device, the security is the same as any other Android phone. If you don't want personal data going to the Googs don't give it personal data
Should I upgrade my IKEA hub to the new one?
thinking of a robot vacuum - anybody use these with HA? the integration seems pretty nice https://us.roborock.com/products/roborock-q7-max-plus
I haven't tried but I think some of the (at least older) models you can flash an open source firmware that integrates
I ordered it so I’ll give it a shot - there is an integration for it
Anybody have recommendations for a battery or mains small LED light? I'm trying to make an "LED alarm" when it lights up at alarm time then you press a button to deactivate
How well do IKEA motion sensors work?
Hi Yall. I have one of these from when Telstra in Australia used to offer smart home products but have since shut down the service. I beleive all these devices were zigbee based and it's possible to use the devices under zigbee, but not sure if theres a way to flash / ressurect this hub as a zigbee coordinator?
open it up and find out
I thought maybe the part attached to plug is just power and the other part is a zigbee coordinator board? not sure
Not showing the good parts
Sorry? What should I show?
https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Sercomm_SZ-ESW01-AU.html this is one of the plugs that used to be sold with it
Winbond chips can't be easily repurposed so you're mainly out of luck
In the sense that I won't be able to change the firmware?
That sense and the sense of accessing the firmware
Yeah originally had to use the telstra smart home app and connect to it via wifi
Can still connect to it via wifi but not sure if theres any way to interface with it without the proprietry app
every discussion about motion sensors (traditional ones) usually is HUE >> anything else on here
I use a conbee ii dongle for my ZigBee receiver. But I also have a Xiaomi ZigBee hub. Is it possible I can set up the hub so that it can help "boost" the ZigBee signal?
My setup is conbee ii, and zigbee2mqtt
No. Usually those hubs are locked down
Thanks @proven girder would something like Thread help in this scenario? Using that protocol the device would have to accept and forward the packets to the next hop?
Or is that wishful thinking on my part?
I have HA OS running on a raspberry pi. I have a usb webcam connected which is connected through usb. I’m using ffmpeg to display the camera feed in the overview. The webcam has a separate audio cable. When I plug it into the audio jack of the raspberry pi there is no audio. Should this work? Are there extra steps I need to take? Thanks!
The audio jack is usually for a pair of headphones isn't it?
Yes you are right, silly me.
Are there any IR heating panels that work well with home assistant?
Hi, I recently connected a bunch of IKEA Tradfri GU10 bulbs to HAOS through Z2MQTT. I noticed that it seems to discover the bulbs as "sensors", rather than "lights". As a result, I'm unable to setup automations and stuff which require interacting with the bulbs as a "light" device (eg. Brightness, color temp, etc).
Anyone has any idea/ suggestions please?
Well it's not exactly an "open source firmware" per se - I presume you're talking about Valetudo. It's more of an addition to the stock firmware, which blocks all cloud comms, and redirects them to localhost - Valetudo then hijacks those requests and acts like the cloud API would, just locally.
Technically you could even offload the Valetudo API by running it on your HA host (e.g. in Docker), and during the root process, specifying the HA instance IP as the target for those redirects, instead of localhost. But generally it's much better to run it on the vacuum itself.
So just to clarify: Valetudo IS open source, but it isn't a firmware. It's "just" an extra software layer on the stock firmware that blocks cloud and replaces it with local control.
The one I'm thinking of has its own path finding algorithm and afaik was fully OSS. Maybe it died at some point. I'll have to look around some more
Hmm maybe it was Valetudo 🤔🤷
Anyone else with a looong driveway using a Macross/Hosmart sensor + rtl_433? Curious about effective range; I'm seeing about 300' maximum (400' or so with the receiver that comes with). Advertises 2600' but of course that isn't through trees.
That's interesting, since Valetudo specifically set out to be a sort of "local cloud guardian" and never intended to reimplement e.g. path finding or LIDAR/vSLAM mapping 😄
But if there's an OSS firmware replacement for the AVA client on these vacuums, I'd certainly be interested
There was/is a project to build a full generic open source firmware for robot vacuums, but idk what the status of that is.
I’m looking at setting up my camper as its own Home Assistant instance, it doesn’t have an HVAC, and I’m wondering if there’s any good options for a tiny AC cooling unit that is already HA enabled or if I should just use one with analog controls and a remote plug? Thoughts?
Hello all, I have an issue with a shelly 1 pm (api 1), it connects to wifi with good signal and after some time reset by itself
any ideas?
is there a way to disable a BT device in HAOS? I have been getting drops of some BT sensors in my fridge an freezer so I assumed I needed more range and got a long range BT adapter. i assume I need to disable the onboard chip to make it use the long range one
can anyone help me with a restore?
both zwave and zha are not restoring
both say "failed setup will retry"
when i try to ADD HUB for zwave, it ultimately fails
and I havent done anything with zha yet because im scared to press anything
do i hit MIGRATE RADIO?
i went back to old system and thankfully its all working but backup/restore did not work at all
SK6812 is supose to be 12v or does it come in both 12 and 5?
nm ic they are just 5v
Looking for recommendations:
-
Good bulbs that work with HA - no price restrictions
-
Good bulbs that work with HA - if under a budget
Hue / Innr
on sk6812 RGBW. how many meters have you guys gotten away with. before you noticed color issues due to voltage drop?
you can just inject power along the way
run led and proper wire paralel to it
every meter or so inject power
yep im aware
so your thinking 1 meter?
I think it depends on how many LEDs per meter
And how bright you want it to be, higher brightness makes the voltage drop much more visible
If budget is important, I can recommend tradfri bulbs from IKEA
In my kitchen I have a GLEDOPTO ledstrip from Aliexpress, I must say their LED drivers are really good and also compatible with HUE.
i guess i was just wondering what the best light bulbs were that were also the cheapest
Best for sure, Philips Hue
But they are expensive
Good price quality ratio for bulbs; IKEA Tradfri
Customizable LED strip: GLEDOPTO from aliexpress
I have 4 meters in my kitchen but you need to think about your use case, the options you want, the type of LED driver, the type of led strip, etc etc
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004555740742.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32858603964.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32990834544.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000417108777.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001890887248.html
I have used all this for my current setup, I took a RGB+CCT controller with a led strip which has whites separated from the colors and shows as two different lamps.
For UX/better wife approval factor I use Hue and then add it to my HA so my wife can control the lamps through the HUE app.
It also works syncs natively with my TV with Ambilight + Hue
Unfortunately TP vision (Philips TV maker) and Signify (Philips Hue Manufacturer) don't like to work together anymore so new TV's don't have this feature anymore: https://www.whathifi.com/news/new-philips-ambilight-tvs-wont-work-with-philips-hue
go get a LG
Lets you fetch the framebuffer and make the same opensource with hyper-hdr or hyperion (i prefer hyperhdr because it properly talks to multi segment lights)
Do you have any source / guide so I can read about it?
Thanks a lot, very interesting, I didn't know about this.
hyperHDR and whatever led strips you want is the way
sk6812 + 144/meter is ideal if you have $ to throw away
ws2812b @ 60/meter is fine tho
That's really cool
Hi,
What do you think of Gledopto Zigbee LED drivers? I wonder if they are good quality, easy to work with, etc
For example: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/GL-C-007S.html thanks!
Integrate your Gledopto GL-C-007S via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Does anyone have a suggestion for an outdoor plug? Ideally one that doesn't require you to open a proprietary app to get it connected to HA?
For the price they are great ! They work with a barrel jack power supply and are hue compatible
Hi all, I´m looking for a 868 MHz RF controller to integrate in HA. Does anyone know anything similar?
Anyone make mmwave sensors in Canada and sell them?
anyone has a n100 running homeassistant? trying to understand power consumption
I like the Zooz ones a lot, if z-wave is on the menu for you.
What's confusing you in regards of power consumption
not confusing. just wondering how much it consumes. my i5 4th gen is taking between 27-30w
but real consumption not TDP shenanigans :p
that is 1/4 of what mine is using
it has more stuff in there but not that much more
n100 is even cheaper now. i am thinking on setting the gtx750 i have in storage on this computer and give it to my daughter buying a n100 for homelab purposes (i dont do much homelab wise nowadays, mostly HAOS)
Mind you mine is running the HA Assist stack with wakeword and more than 20 addons
no clue what that is. mine was running zigbee and node-red only i think
either way it seems that long run the n100 might pay itself
can you use an RGBCW with white turned on and yellow light from the RGB to make warm white?
aka if someone has tried that before
i use that exactly
i leveled the RGB to look like a warm white
done that on my 3d printer.
hmm i was wondering about that because i wasn't sure if i should get CW or WW for my kitchen
but i figured if CW with yellow could look just as good then i thought that might be the better plan
Technically yes but you're probably not that good at color mixing
people say get natural white or warm white sk6812 if that's what you're referring to
Tasmota has that feature though
yeah. so you would go with WW over trying to color correct?
you talking about analog white strips?
RGBWW or RGBCW
If you want the color temperature range pick strips that do CT
Everything else is not it
I've made progress. I created a custom integration that runs without errors, but nothing appears in the integrations UI. Still working on it.
anyone awake in here?
anyone have a recommendation for an aliexpress controller that works with a 5 pin. RGBCCT like the one in the screenshot above:
You should be able to find the Athom LS5P on there.
Hi all, got a small question/wish for some presence detection. My girlfriend and I use android (samsung) devices. I want something like a bluetooth tracker that when we have it with us, it will send the location (through phone). When we leave it somewhere and go away, it will stay at that spot till we get it. I'm not really sure where I have to start for this. I have tried the iBeacon trackers, but I guess that's only for Apple? I have tried the chipolo one, but couldn't get it to work. Is there anyone that can direct me in the right direction? 🙂 Thanks a lot.
Check your app store for the ha companion app
and hope it works with the iBeacon integration
as far as I read it they want gps locations, not bluetooth distance measurements 😛
we read it differently then
fight!
Anyone who can recommend a nice store in Western Europe where I can order a raspberry pi 5 combo with a skyconnect?
Hi,
What is your opinion about Sunricher's LED Zigbee controllers?
https://www.sunricher.com/zigbee-series/cc-zigbee-led-drivers.html?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.28673e5fElzI9Z
https://sunricher.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-811954196/Zigbee_LED_Controller.html?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.28673e5fElzI9Z
They appear to be Zigbee certified, but also do some Tuya.
So I wonder if there is anything I'm missing.
Please advise,
Thanks!
no, you figured it out. they're oem manufacturers for many brands
Thank Blakadder!
Should I assume that their certified Zigbee drivers are true drivers and won't have any trick up their sleeves like Tuya does? That require the registaration on their cloud, etc.
Tuya does
So why people here scared me about Tuya, that I need to subscribe to their cloud, that their products are locked to Tuya only?
¯_(ツ)_/¯
pfff
the issue with tuya is variance in quality and their "special" handling of the zigbee protocol
Does anyone one have any experience or advice (like recommended or avoid) for a smart siren that I can trigger via home assistant? Ideally powered with battery backup