hardware-archived

[tawny viper]

I thought RAID was a backup?

😛

[cold moon]

https://giphy.com/gifs/nounish-dao-nouns-goldypix-f8lDluiWJ7yQTtdS3L

[gentle fossil]

raid1 is at least a full backup for single disk failure. not considering replication to other locations etc of course

[winged knoll]

Redundancy != backup

[cold moon]

right but to most people, data that would be gone but isnt because it's on another drive = backup in some sense of the word

even if it is bastardizing the word backup to get to that conclusion lol

[trim crescent]

people told me I was crazy to use a raid6 with 4 disks. just use raid5 mate111!!!!.. moved the disks after 3 years of 24/7 operation. 2 disks died, data was intact.. people stared at me and told me... "uhhhh." not that i did not have a backup of most of the data... but... aeh... my rationale was that i wasn't home often during the time of the inception of that thing... so having a 2 disks as backup until i can get and qualify replacements(a week long burnin) was a good idea... saved my ass.

[cold moon]

us unraid nerds get real weird with it with no raid or striping

just good ole dedicated parity disks

[trim crescent]

and then there is the brand of people who use usb enclosures without ever considering SMART :P

[cold moon]

i get a lot of linux isos to fit in this with the ability for any two disks to fail tho

[trim crescent]

been there done that, woke to sudden read errors on the backup disks one day... since then i check that explicitly and thouroughly because hey enclosures can fake data

[cold moon]

enclosures?

[trim crescent]

"external hard disks"

[cold moon]

"gross"

[trim crescent]

hey they used to be way damn cheaper than internal disks for some time.

(while having the worst crap in them after opening and putting them internally)

[cold moon]

are you talking about shucking?

it's still viable.. every one of my disks are shucked wd easystores

https://shucks.top/

[trim crescent]

ye

back then 5TB for 150€ a pop, was on my way to an interview when nagios finally told me my disk was crapping out or rather the whole server... bought 4 of them in the next store.

[cold moon]

https://giphy.com/gifs/peacocktv-will-ferrell-kicking-and-screaming-phil-weston-JSqa30dQmyobgeX10t

TFW when my open source responsive behind the tv lighting is 3x cheaper and 3x better than your paid fancy in a box shit

[winged sonnet]

Lol

Let me set it up and let's see how bad it really is

[cold moon]

Post a pic of the led strip

I want to see how far apart the leds are

[drifting ember]

not if it's RAID0

[wooden fossil]

Nice. I got a govee m1 that I need to cut up and run around my entertainment center. Gotta decide if I want the lights to shine down or towards the back, and drill some holes to run the wires.

[winged sonnet]

Privacy lid for camera

[cold moon]

Yea not good

60/meter or higher is best for this too

[winged sonnet]

Yeah I don't think it's the most dense LED strip out there

[cold moon]

It is not

[winged sonnet]

Yeah definitely you have more lights there

They are like an inch apart or something

[wooden fossil]

How would you run them for my entertainment center?

[cold moon]

The best way?

[wooden fossil]

Yeah

[drifting ember]

ahhh the glorious smell of fresh brewed coffee

it smells like victory

[cold moon]

right so first the issue with anto's solution is three fold

[winged sonnet]

I'll see tonight how it performs. In the future I'll be adding more nanoleaf shapes to the upper wall above there

[wooden fossil]

I'm planning to cut mine up for the various sections of the entertainment center so doing it the right way is preferable lol. First time messing with led strips though

[cold moon]

first, they are reacting to a camera stream instead of hdmi capture or just sent over network (android hyperion grabber) - the end result of this (and the biggest issue with this setup) is that it is more "blending" the colors together that a low quality camera hanging above the tv sees

[wooden fossil]

Will probably solder on wires with some jst connectors to make it easy to connect everything

[cold moon]

second, they are using a low density led strip which means the spacing is so far apart that the leds themselves are not close enough to accurately display the differences in color as they change on the screen

third was going to be underpowered but i think they might use like 12 or 24v so less voltage drop

the best way is to use hyperion or the hyperHDR fork (adds HDR support or SDR tone mapping) along with an android nvidia shield tv running android hyperion grabber which sends data to hyperion/hyderHDR, and rgb (ws2812b) or rgbw (sk6812) 5v led strips with multiple power injection points (or at least start and end) depending on pixel density - oh and at 60/meter, or if you have the $ and run the extra power, 144/meter

it's still not perfect but it's pretty good

certain colors really pop or work better than others.. i havent really dived deep into it

[wooden fossil]

Pretty cool

[winged sonnet]

Those Govee's are also pretty good. There was some recent review between the three major ones and I think the govees had the best saturation and the nanoleaf had the best whites I forgot what the other one was

I'll see if I can find that YouTube review

[patent river]

While you're looking for reviews of the strips, worth adding a review of diffuser channels to your playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKOWeuV1FWE
Makes a pretty big difference to the appearance, if the strip is visible at all

[cold moon]

no diffuser for behind tv man

you want the lumens to bounce off the wall behind the tv

all the lumens

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNDikt7VfRw these are really sweet

[patent river]

Eh, depends a lot on what colour your walls are painted, and how close your TV is to the wall

[cold moon]

hard disagree

very, very hard disagree

[glacial oracle]

edge lit? The poor peoples led grid

Always a bit eh installing them with their limited lifetime

[cold moon]

poor? check the price on those

$80 for 4 feet or $113 for 8 feet

[glacial oracle]

If that includes legs it sounds fair

probably pay significantly more for an led grid tho, especially in energy

[cold moon]

no but you gotta admit a room full of those as baseboards would be pretty cool

i mean the leds would probably cost more than the furniture in the room but.. that's not relevant

[glacial oracle]

No reason in lying they do look nice

[rich venture]

raid is never a backup

[drifting ember]

I'm aware, but RAID0 least of all

[rich venture]

raid 0 is double the risk, double the reward

[wild atlas]

Raid 0 is best raid, I use raid 0 across all my micro SD to USB adapters to max out my speeds

[drifting ember]

I know folk who think shadow copy is a backup lol

[rich venture]

proper backup should follow 321

[drifting ember]

I'm aware

[rich venture]

3 copies of the data
across 2 diffrent media
with 1 being off site

i personally have duplicati with target on the 2nd drive and every day at night critical data gets backuped to cloud storage

[agile olive]

What is the difference between these two mini pcs?

https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B0B7WCTXMT/ref=nav_youraccount_switchacct?keywords=beelink%2Bn100&refinements=p_72%3A831280031%2Cp_36%3A-18000&rnid=9733333031&sr=8-1&th=1

https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B0C4GF81M9/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=n100%2Bmini%2Bpc&sr=8-8&th=1

I think the TRIGKEY has a SSD PCLe M.2 and the Beelink is other type of SSD

maybe the brand is important here?

the Beelink is 144€. The Trigkey is 131€

[iron fable]

ah crap - should've posted in Zigbee thread - migrating questions there!

[rich venture]

beelink is more known
they probably came from same factory

[agile olive]

so basically they are exactly the same. What about the SSD? Any difference at all or it's just the description?

[rich venture]

they both have pcie x1 ssd which is either a error or extremly sus

for longetivity reasons i would probably replace it with a known brand one

[agile olive]

ok, 100% the same then

thanks

[abstract bobcat]

I got some Shelly 1s installed today and I've had trouble configuring them. I set them to detached mode, but they still turn off power to the lights they're connected to. Additionally the input still says on in the dashboard, and the output doesn't change unless I click it. Clicking the output on or off produces an audible click but no other effect. In HA the switch mirrors the on/off value of the output button in the dashboard, and can control it. The binary sensor just stays on "detected"

The desired result is I can flip the switch on and off without effecting the light bulbs, and then I can use an automation in HA to turn the bulbs off directly

[glacial oracle]

At that point why not just eliminate the switch

[agile olive]

hi guys, sorry to bother you again with this one. About the Mini PCs, and in particular the one I'm looking at (the Beelink Mini-S12 Pro with N100 CPU, 16Gb RAM and 500GB SSD), it's not only for HA, of course so, should I be looking at something that could replace my router? if so, it should be something with 2 ethenert ports right?

[drifting ember]

do not put all your eggs in one basket

[agile olive]

what do you recommend? If I buy this one, I can't use it as router replacement right?

[drifting ember]

personally, I would leave the the routing to something else

[zealous dune]

its a bit silly putting two crucial systems on a single machine

[agile olive]

ok

[zealous dune]

but you can do it if you really want to

[agile olive]

it's possible even having only one port right?

anyway, I think i will get the beelink and don't use it now for router replacement

if it's better to have something else just for that what should I get?

[zealous dune]

i use actual router hardware with openwrt

[agile olive]

ok

[abstract bobcat]

The bulbs are smart and we don't always have our phone out

I'd specifically gotten the shellys because of detached mode. Everyone online seems to indicate it just works

[zealous dune]

it does

[glacial oracle]

The pro model of the s12 beelink has two 2.5gbit ports

[glacial oracle]

I probably do understand it wrong. If detached would disable the switch it would be no use if wired up correctly?

At least that's the case on their plugs

[abstract bobcat]

The idea is that in HA I'd have a switch for the output and a binary sensor for the input. I could use the binary sensor to change the lights via an automation. But right now when I flip the switch it turns the bulbs off from power, meaning I can't turn them on unless I flip the switch again. This is specifically an issue because some of my smart bulbs are zigbee routers and shouldn't be turned off ever.

And fwiw, since toggling the output switch from HA also doesn't seem to toggle whether the bulbs get power, I couldn't even go the route of remotely turning the bulbs on via the switch

[glacial oracle]

Ah I understand

[agile olive]

I was thinking about the S12 Pro. The one you are talking about is the Beelink EQ12 Business Mini PC?

this one - https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B0C6G5TT1N/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=beelink%2Bn100%2B16&sr=8-4&th=1

[cold moon]

https://giphy.com/gifs/wJD3qiNjSeHS0dP28T

^ @agile olive by the time he finds a mini pc he likes

[agile olive]

that is not true

[cold moon]

oh you're suggesting one for someone else?

[agile olive]

I was going to buy the S12 Pro but there's no units available

I'm finding an alternative to buy quickly so that I don't get that old 🙂

alternative: wait for stock

[cold moon]

the night is young

[agile olive]

If I'm checking alternatives, why not with two gbit port

[agile olive]

it is 🙂

this EQ12 has DDR5@4800MHz, don't know if makes any difference in the real world...

[cold moon]

damn

[agile olive]

60€ more expensive (144 to 204)

[cold moon]

you're getting into why-buy-a-mini-pc-instead-of-building-a-whitebox-nas territory

[zealous dune]

this morphed into server grade discussions

[agile olive]

guilty!

[glacial oracle]

Oh yes I mean the eq12, always confuse their naming

[agile olive]

it all started because of an alternative to the Pi. of course a mini pc only for HA is overkill, sorry for that

[zealous dune]

i vaguely remember telling you a mini pc is good if you don't plan on running a home lab

which you clearly are

[agile olive]

i'm not

144€ for the S12 it's a good deal

and I can do much more than have only HA

[zealous dune]

yes, same as yesterday

you can but if you plan on running a smart home media storage router server... no

[agile olive]

why not?

it seems great for that

[zealous dune]

yes, but not for all of that at once

[agile olive]

ok. I will wait for the S12 to be back in stock. There is the N95 but I want the N100

[abstract bobcat]

oh, I realized I mispoke before. It's the shelly plus 1. This is the wiring diagram - I'm wondering if it's possible the electricians wired them wrong?

if that's the case, it'd be an annoying problem to fix - my SO does not want me messing around with the wires myself.

I'm not sure if that would explain the behavior I'm seeing though - relay is fully powered, regardless of the switch, switch toggles power to the bulbs despite being in detached mode, and digitally toggling the output has no effect on the bulbs but produces an audible click

[zealous dune]

It's very possible since 99.9% of electricians have no clue how to wire smart devices properly

[glacial oracle]

If looking at the wires isn't already messing with them, it should be fairly easy to spot

[abstract bobcat]

Alright, got permission to do that. A lot of the wires are pretty far back in there but I didn't want to yank too hard, but already I'm very suspicious of the fact 3 of the connections don't have wires:

[terse pebble]

Looks wrong

[glacial oracle]

Yes the lamp would go between O and I

as shown by the picture on it :^)

[abstract bobcat]

Yeah, that's annoying. I'll contact the electricians about it, see if they might fix their mistake

[glacial oracle]

How many of those did they put in?

[abstract bobcat]

3

[upper yoke]

hi . whats the best curtain opener that integrates with home assistant rn?

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[upper yoke]

im looking to cover two windows at $150 usd each max. i have a zigbee adapter. i was looking at aqara 3 but i read it is Bluetooth and ive had mixed results with bt stuff on my pi4 has instance, im using a flower sensor and i dunno if i can have another bt device at the same time

[gentle fossil]

you can have multiple bt devices connected

however the pi4s BT might not be the best suitable for that job as its chipset/driver is flimsy

and also the signal isn't really satisfying on these wifi/bt combo chipsets on sbcs without dedicated antenna

what people do is flash esp32's with esphome and use that as bluetooth receiver/sender (bluetooth proxy)

that will cost you around 5$ per proxy

and also around 30 bucks for the bt cover bots from switchbot or your mentioned aqara one

[timid moth]

Hi all. Looking for a smart thermostat system in EU (NL), preferably based on Zigbee or otherwise fully local WiFi. I'd also like to explore adding meters to my radiators. Still new to this type of hardware, so please let me know if there are any further specifications required. Thanks!

[chilly moth]

Hi there! Anyone who knows a reliable hygrometer for outside use for HA(maybe zigbee for low power??). Maybe a link to amazon???

[winged knoll]

Which country's Amazon?

[chilly moth]

nl

or de

[thorny mantle]

I recently purchased a Mailbox Guard (https://github.com/PricelessToolkit/MailBoxGuard) which is a device placed in your mailbox and uses LoRa to signal a receiver that connects to HA. The creator provides an MQTT implementation but since I don't use that on my HA server I wrote gateway firmware that uses the API (HARestAPI). My example has been merged into the main repo (https://github.com/PricelessToolkit/MailBoxGuard/blob/main/Code/Arduino/LoRa_Gateway/LoRa_Gateway_HARestAPI/LoRa_Gateway_HARestAPI.ino).

Right now I have the following in configuration.yaml

input_boolean:
  mailbox_guard_motion:
    name: Mailbox Guard Motion
    icon: mdi:mail
  mailbox_guard_low_battery:
    name: Mailbox Guard Low Battery
    icon: mdi:battery

And I just added the default cards for these to the dashboard (see attached image)

I want to create a custom card for the dashboard to show mail count [int], RSSI [int] with signal strength [excellent, good, fair, weak], SNR [int], battery level [int] with low battery warning [good, low]. There needs to be two buttons; one to reset the mail count back to zero and one to reset the battery warning when the battery has been replaced. Any advice, help, example is appreciated.

[winged knoll]

You probably want to post about that on the forum, where it won't vanish from view so quickly

There's a section for sharing projects

[thorny mantle]

Okay thanks I'll make a post there

[outer knot]

@thorny mantle I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:

[winged knoll]

More a topic for #integrations-archived - but no, you can't

[static horizon]

Not sure if this belongs here, but I've got a security system in my house (I never hooked it up, was here when we moved in) that has RS-232 to an old legrand home automation system. What should I look for or what do I need to do to see if I can connect this to HA and maybe utilize the motion sensors / door sensors?

[cold moon]

https://konnected.io/pages/home-assistant this probably

[static horizon]

I'll check it out. I think someone else mentioned this too but that was before I figured out this board had RS-232 so wasn't sure if that changed anything

[winged knoll]

Konnected would re-purpose the sensors, replacing the current "brains"

[cold moon]

https://konnected.io/products/konnected-alarm-panel-wired-alarm-system-conversion-kit

[outer knot]

You can disable link preview in Discord by adding < before and > after the URL, like this: <http://home-assistant.io/>

[wary bane]

Hi all. I'm new around here so apologies if there is an answer within reach already. Do we have a good list of compatible hardware that the community recommends? I'm looking for cloudless plug switches for the UK.

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[winged knoll]

No, for a number of reasons

[cold moon]

if zigbee in uk, innr i think?

[winged knoll]

Yup, those are good

There's a bunch around the house here forming the backbone of my mesh

[cold moon]

there are outdated lists but in general it's best to just ask here

reddit or the forums are hit or miss, if you ask here you get up-to-date advice

[winged knoll]

For Zigbee then Innr are great, Hive and Salus are also good

[cold moon]

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/ if you're using zigbee this has pretty decent info

[wary bane]

Is it sensible to buy into an ecosystem like ZigBee and going from there over trying to find WiFi devices?

[winged knoll]

Zigbee is a lot better choice than WiFi crap

[cold moon]

there are a few situations where the wifi equivalent makes sense but usually zigbee or zwave are a better solution

like if you wanted to sync rgb led strips to music, using wled flashed to esp32s is a better solution than the zigbee or zwave led controllers

[winged knoll]

You can do https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/tasmota-uk-plug-v2 should you desperately want WiFi for some strange reason

[cold moon]

if you want to use smart light bulbs then zigbee is by far the best solution right now

and with those smart light bulbs (except sengled), they'll all repeat signal across the mesh for other end devices like door sensors or motion sensors

[winged knoll]

Zigbee also has an amazing range of sensors you can use

Door/window, light level, leak, temperature, motion, etc etc

[cold moon]

https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/uk-v2-plug-for-esphome tbh i'd be okay with these too

the esphome integration is nice with hass

i like the idea of power monitoring not being on a zigbee or zwave mesh myself

but moreso zwave lol

[patent river]

Also obscure ones like the combination NH3/H2S "someone wrecked the toilet" sensor, which seem to be available from a few brands

But hey, maybe you want to make an automatic bathroom fan?

[wild atlas]

There's also the fun of custom esphome based sensors, they'll end up as Wi-Fi but can do whatever you need them to

But that's going be a bit more in the weeds than just a one off sensor that you can find on zigbee or zwave

[vital turtle]

Any tips on how to smartify a 3-way light switch (non-dimmable) with no neutral? Inovellis are impossible to find.

[gloomy spoke]

Not really impossible. In stock

[vital turtle]

Not from my location

[gloomy spoke]

Then you'll need to say what that is

the moon

[winged knoll]

You mean ... you don't know where everybody lives?

[vital turtle]

Canada. Are Inovellis my only option here.

[vital turtle]

Where are the Inovellis in stock?

[gloomy spoke]

In their store

[vital turtle]

The Blue Series don't work in a 3-way

[gloomy spoke]

https://community.inovelli.com/t/non-neutral-3-way-wiring-help-blue-dimmer-w-aux/12382, bit I have neutrals everywhere and have no direct experience with your configuration

[narrow moat]

Has anyone done a good / bad / ugly comparison of smart locks? Is there a crowd favorite? I want to get one for my front door and want to be as informed as possible - I'm in the USA..

[hexed galleon]

Schlage smart lock Is good

[wild atlas]

I have a kwickset zwave lock and like it, it has an occasional hiccup but other than that it's pretty solid

[devout parrot]

Kwikset seems to be the way to go. I have the Kwikset Convert Zigbee model, works great and I got to keep my Schlage deadbolt and keys since it just retrofits the interior part.
If you want one with a keypad, go with Zwave so you can manage codes with FutureTense/keymaster. The Kwikset Zigbee locks technically have the capacity to be managed by keymaster, it's just not implemented. Yet. Hopefully some day.

[potent crane]

What's the best way to identify what is causing my homeassistant service to utilize high CPU?

[tacit burrow]

Check your logs? Probably some integration is in busy loop. Does restarting js help?

[potent crane]

I've disabled all integrations and automations and restart doesn't help. One thing that did help (because I'm getting this more often lately) is to remove my .log files from the SSD

So there seems to be some loop related to logging?

[outer knot]

Profiler

Profile Home Assistant.

Quality scale

:house: Internal

IoT Class

Unknown

Integration type

integration

Documentation

View the documentation

Source

View the source on GitHub

Issues

View known issues

[winged knoll]

That can help

[strong violet]

Does anyone know of a PTZ motor but without a camera? I basically just want a sturdy pan/tilt mechanism controlled via onvif to attach a hose to. From there add Frigate/ facial recognition of certain people and the rest writes itself. But it seems all these PTZ systems are all in one with camera included which isn’t what I need.

Something like this. But not military spec and controlled by IP/ONVIF

https://tonboimaging.com/defense/products/pan-tilt/

[haughty patrol]

Hi All. Im using a pi4 running 64bit HA OS. I have a external USB 3 m.2 NVME ssd as the storage. Does anyone know how I can tell if the drive is "syncing" at usb3 speeds and not usb2 speeds ?

[outer knot]

@haughty patrol Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.

If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.

[haughty patrol]

yes i realised i posted on the wrong channel

[winged knoll]

Then delete your other post 😉

[haughty patrol]

done.

thanks

tinkie do u know how i can do this

[terse pebble]

"tinkie"

Most low tech option would be to look at the Pi4 USB port itself.

Black = USB2 speed
Blue = likely USB3 speed

You could also do a dd to a file. If I remember correctly there is a write speed estimation in its output.

[haughty patrol]

yea using the blue port but im wondering if its actually picking it up as usb3 as some cables are 3 and some are 2 and it must have some mechanism to detect it. the usb3 cables have additional pins on the port. so id like to know if its syncing at 3 or falling back to 2 irrespective of the cable im using. Ive also had to create a Y connector on the cable by taking the power cables out of the USB cable and injecting 5v into it for additional power from a buck board. So i want to have a way to compare speeds if I try a normal cable to see if it falls down to USB 2

dd doesnt give me mbps on this installation for some reason.

dd just reports xxx messages in and xxx messages out. Using the same command that gives mbps on other distributions.

[terse pebble]

Are you running dd in the terminal add-on or on the host OS?

[haughty patrol]

terminal addon

[terse pebble]

That's the "problem"

[haughty patrol]

https://ibb.co/kJMP6FW

i thought it was the same thing no?

please explain the difference

[terse pebble]

The add-on gives access to the shared directories and some terminal functionality. It looks like the base system, but it isn't

[haughty patrol]

ok

[thorn wadi]

Hi, does anyone have any afordable ideas for multi-room (5 rooms) speaker amplifier that could work with HA?

[zealous dune]

Just amplifier without speakers? Affordable means different things to different people, why not set a budget limit instead?

[winged knoll]

Symfonisk is a re-brand of Sonos and may meet your definition of affordable mult-room speakers (not an amp though)

[golden thorn]

Try lsusb -t (look for *M or lsusb -v (look for bcdUSB) to check the theoretical speeds.
BusyBox's dd doesn't seem to provide that information and has no progress=status argument either. You could prefix it with time and calculate yourself.
I'd recommend a bigger file though and dd isn't necessarily the fastest so it's not as accurate. I suggest you run apk add fio and test with that.
The most basic (not necessarily best) would probably be something like this fio --rw=write --name=test --size=10000M but see here for more:

• https://fio.readthedocs.io/
• https://www.google.com/search?q=fio+test+ssd

[thorn wadi]

The thing is i have speakers already built in and all the wires wired to a central location so i guess just amp would work. About the budget i really have no idea what would an amp like that cost 😅 so i guess disregard the affordable and think of it as a good price performans ratio 😁

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[winged knoll]

That'll help us help you

[static horizon]

So looks like Konnected is actually open source and you can flash it on a NodeMCU? I've got a spare board not being used for anything so figured I'd give this a try.
But aside from flashing, the docs don't seem to detail wiring instructions for the NodeMCU board itself. Anyone know of any resources for a DIY konnected board?

[devout parrot]

Probably just need to do your best to reverse engineer it based on their documentation. It's pretty detailed and they're not trying to hide or obscure anything so if you've got at least a hobbyist level of understanding of electronics and circuit boards and whatnot you can probably do it.
You could also try contacting them to see if they'll just give you a proper schematic.

[sudden galleon]

which home energy monitor u guys use to track power? I want something Zigbee or Wifi, and was looking at Emporia Gen 2 Vue.
Whats your recommendation? (I plan to get solar)

[winged knoll]

#energy-archived can probably better answer that, if you tell them what country you're in

[blazing void]

Has anyone used a zbmini L2 or similar behind one of the switches in a 4 way light circuit? Can find nothing online.

Hey, did you ever figure this out? I've started with a zbmini L2, but no clue how it should be wired behind the switch

[warm helm]

Hey did you ever figure this out I ve

[random ridge]

Guys how hard would it be to "smartify" my UPS power strip so if it detects power loss it sends a command to my PC to shutdown gracefully?

[drifting ember]

you mean, like plugging in the USB cable that comes with that unit and using NUT addon to pull the sensors in?

then using an automation to shut down the PC?

[glossy prism]

Or apcupsd which has native shutdown functionality

[drifting ember]

well I didn't think the apcupsd addon was still maintained, but yes that's an even better choice if it is

[elfin robin]

Anybody used the aqara fp2 much yet? Have all the features opened up to HA?

[patent river]

Just apparently hope you have the one which has a "normal" USB-B and not the one that has an RJ45 (of, knowing APC, some nonsensical pinout)
Both of these images showed up in a search for "BE750G" (which appears to be the part number for that thing)

[strong violet]

So anyway, getting back to my problem.

As an alternative to an ONVIF pan/tilt solution, it seems these two devices conjunction would do the trick. Don't know the pricing on the pan/tilt tho.

I've never used an RS-485 device before, but I'm assuming it will show up on my network and be configurable in home-assistant using modbus?

https://natss.com.au/product/vpt-501-hz-b-ral7035/

https://www.iot-store.com.au/products/serial-rs485-wifi-ethernet-modbus-mqtt

[drifting ember]

the cable comes with it tho

[tacit burrow]

Are you going to ask a question, then ignore the replies?

[random ridge]

No? It hasn't been very long and I'm not constantly on discord

[random ridge]

Oh awesome there's already a home assistant addon for it? Sounds like connecting it should be ez pz then lol, thanks

[rich venture]

what is the distance between your home assistant server and that camera as you could use much cheaper usb to rs485 modbus and a cable

for modbus rtu (rs485) to modbus tcp bridge you could look at this wiki page that is for solar inverter but its aplicable to your situation
https://github.com/wlcrs/huawei_solar/wiki/Connecting-to-the-inverter#serial-connection-to-a-modbus-rtu-to-tcp-bridge

they are much more reasonably priced than the one you linked

[strong violet]

Thanks, yeah I had seen some cheaper options like that, but there's no possibility connecting it via USB or directly with any sort of cable to the Home-Assistant which runs on a Raspberry Pi. I would need some form of IP connectivity to the RS-485 controller I believe. The controller could be powered by POE, but not connected directly to the Pi. However, the pan-tilt mechanism will no doubt need its own power anyway.

[rich venture]

i think you misunerstood, the ones in the wiki i linked would need to be near that pan/tilt mechanism, they would be hardwired into pan tilt rs485 modbus, and they convert it into a modbus tcp which can be accessed by any device on your network which in your case would be raspberry pi

[prisma oracle]

This damn smart meter kicks me out every 2 minutes so I need to re-enter the Pin. No way to disable that.

No problem, just put an LED to the GPIO, wrote a python service for pyscript and now it send a signal every 90s to keep alive 😇

[strong violet]

Oh I see, yeah that would work. However I've just called about the pan/tilt mechanism. Discontinued, but was apparently a few thousand dollars so that's out. I may just go with a cheap PTZ camera, and strap a hose to it. But would need to be a sturdy PTZ that's all

[rich venture]

what are you trying to do?

and how much of a range of motion would you need

[strong violet]

Probably 180 degrees horizontal, and really no more than 90 degrees vertical. This is to connect a hose, which connects to a smart tap, which is triggered when certain objects/faces are detected via Frigate. Then just need to map the detection zones in frigate to pan/tilt positions for the hose, and the hose turns on and tracks the object/face

So a PTZ with programmable preset positions will work well. Then just need to setup home-assistant to map the camera zones from Frigate to the corresponding PTZ preset position which points the hose at that zone, and update PTZ position as Frigate publishes the object detection zone to MQTT

[rich venture]

if you have a 3d printer you could probably recreate this
https://youtu.be/ztrsc_MPFWQ
and drive it with cheap geared dc motors

for feedback put a accelerometer/gyro module on the head so you can calculate movement and create closed loop

[strong violet]

True. If I do that tho I might as well get something like this. But then it requires an entire control board and a lot of more technical work to get the presets sorted out: https://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/849-Pan-and-Tilt-Kit-with-Standard-Servos

And probably needs to be more sturdy

[rich venture]

not really
servo has feedback already built in and you just put pwm signal on the inputs coresponding to the wanted angle
esp32 or esp8266 would only need to

subscribe to mqtt topic axis 1 and axis 2
servo1.write(axis1); servo2.write(axis2)

[strong violet]

Ah ok. mmmm. Yeah so home-assistant would basically contain the logic to set the axis positions for the desired zone I'm aiming at. But what other hardware is needed to send the inputs, and connect it to the network?

[rich venture]

you would just need esp32 or esp8266, servo gets connected to +5v ,gnd and signal to digital pin
for software you could write your own or use esphome with servo component

but ill warn you that rc servos are not that powerfull unless they are high end metal gear ones

[strong violet]

Yeah I think that's likely to be my main problem

Hence why the one above apparently cost a few thousand dollars

[solar gorge]

Hey so we recently purchased and installed 5 Senville mini split units around our house. We were looking for a way to integrate them into home assistant however from what I have been able to gather the Alexa dongle that comes with them is basically useless for home assistant. I found this github (https://github.com/dudanov/iot-uni-dongle) and it seems like the best option but I wanted to check and make sure that is would be the best thing to get our mini splits connected to home assistant. I am perfectly fine with soldering the ESP-12F and USB but I am ordering from JLCPCB and wanted to check here before I submit the order to JLCPCB

[elfin robin]

Anybody familiar with adding aqara fp2 to HA?
I have got it setup in the aqara app, but it doesn't show up as a homekit device in ha... Any advice? (i dont have apple home app or anything (all Android).

Do I need to remove it from the aqara home app?

[balmy halo]

For HA Touchscreen Kiosks around your house, what do you use to power a larger monitor? I was trying to use a pi3b, but that was hanging frequently in testing with Armbian and Chromium at boot, so I am working my way through setting up a **RockPro64 **(as I do not have an extra pi4 available; preferred) with Armbian and a similar setup running Chromium at boot with the HA IP..... just fighting with the SPI/flashing so it boots from either USB3 or the pcie m.2 nvme drive... HomeAssistant is running on Proxmox and I have smaller tablets connecting just fine....

[zealous dune]

All you need is the Homekit integration in HA

[elfin robin]

Yeah... I have that, it just wasn't seeing the sensor. I had to remove from aqara home and re-add. Then added to HA. (worked the second time). 🤘

[wild atlas]

I used a fire tablet to run my wallpanel instance, works pretty well though the screen is pretty small if that matters to you. If I were to do it again, I'd use a normal android tablet and not Amazon Android, flexing the fire tablet to do things logically was annoying

https://lab.rapternet.us/?p=1694 has my writeup

[nimble pecan]

Is it possible to sniff one of these meters. Guessing not since it probably has some encryption involved. https://www.itron.com/na/solutions/product-catalog/centron

[fringe crater]

There's many itrons and one C1SR on this list, so maybe?
https://github.com/bemasher/rtlamr/blob/master/meters.csv

[drifting ember]

anyone know of any smart locks that aren't deadbolts? I need to get 3 smart 'knobs', US style locks, zigbee/zwave/wifi doesn't matter. just needs to be able to change pins/unlock from HA

[unkempt matrix]

Any FOSS alts to Alexa or google I can integrate with HA?

[winged knoll]

See #voice-assistants-archived

[barren shadow]

I find that "reverse engineer" is the key phrase to include in my googling, and the iTron stuff definitely looks like people have been successful. https://github.com/bemasher/rtlamr

[tawny viper]

Yale assure lock lever

Im a yale fanvoy, I swear they make the only non ugly locks

https://shopyalehome.com/products/yale-assure-lever-touchscreen-with-z-wave-plus?variant=39341913309316

[drifting ember]

I could have sworn I looked at all the Yale's

thanks I will go look now

[tawny viper]

https://shopyalehome.com/collections/lever-lock

[drifting ember]

aaaand now I remember why I didn't see that one, it's $230 LOL

a little out of my budget as I have to get 3 and there's no way I'm getting approval for $700 for 3 locks

but I thank you nonetheless

[upper yoke]

so all the best curtain openers are bluetooth? no zigbee ones?

[random ridge]

What smart light switches would you guys recommend?
Like something similar to this
https://a.co/d/av076cY

[drifting ember]

assuming US location?

[wild atlas]

Looking specifically for Wi-Fi switches?

Or will zwave and zigbee work too?

[drifting ember]

was getting to that but realized they werent at keyboard

[random ridge]

hey sorry im back, just getting ready for work

[random ridge]

yeah wifi i dont have zwave or zigbee yet

I found this and if I understand it correctly you just install this behind the existing lightswitch to smartify it right?
https://www.amazon.com/Shelly-Wireless-Temperature-Measurement-Notification/dp/B0BWNFNXQ5

[wild atlas]

https://cloudfree.shop/product-category/smart-switches/

Shellys are good too

[random ridge]

was i right about how they work?

[fringe crater]

Yes

[random ridge]

perfect, then I dont need to find a smart switch that looks similar to my dumb switches

thanks

[fringe crater]

The one nice thing about smart switches is they will support multitaps and dimming, which you won't get with a shelly.

[random ridge]

whats multitaps?

[fringe crater]

like you can trigger a different action if you press the button 1x-5x times.

e.g. triple click up turns on something other than the primary light it's attached to

[random ridge]

oh that'd be cool

[fringe crater]

it just sends the event to HA and you can do whatever you want with it from there

[random ridge]

if i replace the whole switch i need 2-gang and i dont see any 2-gangs on cloudfree

[fringe crater]

usually you just put two 1-gangs next to each other I would think, that's what it's kind of designed for.

its modular, you don't often see double wide switches.

[drifting ember]

unless it's a sonoff style then it takes up a whole gang on it's own

[random ridge]

that seems like it'd look weird having 2 1-gangs next to each other

[drifting ember]

usually you only see the double gang plate

[fringe crater]

you can't really tell, it's hidden by the faceplate

[drifting ember]

not the individual switches

[random ridge]

oh I use the existing faceplate over the 2 cloudfree switches?

[drifting ember]

should work

I know the zooz and others fit behind them

just not my sonoff touches for example

[fringe crater]

they're almost all "decora" style

[random ridge]

how fast is cloudfree shipping to the US?

[fringe crater]

I'd think hard if you might ever want any of the low power networks before you buy a bunch of wifi switches. Wall switches are a great opportunity to build out your mesh for either zigbee or zwave.

wifi switches may work, but you're then missing out on the opportunity to use them as repeaters.

I'm a big Zooz fan myself, though I know zigbee inovellis are popular too.

[random ridge]

ok sounds like i have more research to do, but i need to go to work for now. thanks for the help!

[drifting ember]

I bought all wifi switches and I'm kinda regretting is as well

but thankfully they were like $13 each so not really a great loss

but I think I will replace them with zigbee

[golden thorn]

Not looking into zigbee sooner is one of my big regrets

[wild atlas]

i did zwave switches, and wifi smart plugs

kinda wish i had more hard wired zigbee to have a better mesh, though i don't have much on it either way

[kind wind]

Hey all. I spoke to the HVAC guy today about thermostats in our new home. He’s pitching Honeywell t-10s. Anyone have experience with those? Or know if they play well with home assistant?

[devout parrot]

Looks like they integrate pretty well under the Homekit controller integration

[half crow]

I have a question in regards to zwave and zigbee (I'm an absolute noob with no equipment and an HA unit still unboxed) I'm planning on using my HA for an alarm system, and when I think about the security aspect, I picture an issue in a power outage with having a non functioning zone if I'm using zigbee through a light switch router. I plan on my HA being in a rack with battery backup, but if the communication path requires hard wired routers in it's path, my understanding of zigbee is that if the sensor was paired in a certain path through equipment, it won't find another path but just not have signal

[tawny viper]

Do you want professional monitoring when you say alarm. I'm not sure ha is a great primary alarm system, well it depends on what you are looking to monitor

[tawny viper]

Not going both sooner was my biggest regret. Zooz has some great switches cheap when on sale. Limiting myself.

[hot tangle]

does anyone know of any kind of smoke detectors that integrate with HA and have a bypass/mute mode on them? zwave/zigbee preferably.

[gentle fossil]

there is no "best"

and I have no idea why but yeah, motorized things tend to utilize bluetooth

[gentle fossil]

I have a „TS0205“, they come from different brands in various sizes.
You can set the alarm tones and also you get a switch for the siren,
Zigbee

No idea if they are actually good or precise, my smoke test was detected alright

[gentle fossil]

this is the one i have: https://www.sumring.com/product-details/tuya-zigbee-smoke-detector-fire-alarm-detector-smart-smoke-sensor
really tiny

[sour blaze]

Do Zwave sticks perform fine when plugged into USB 2.0 or do they need USB 3.0 port? I have Aeotec Stick 7

[winged knoll]

#zwave-archived could better answer that

[glacial oracle]

id strongly doubt they push enough data though for this to make a noticable difference
tho on some boards they may or may not actually stick to the power draw limits

[winged knoll]

But yes, they work in USB 1.0 ports too

[sour blaze]

Thank you!

I've been running it on USB 2.0 and just wanted to double check

[patent river]

Spec sheet for that Aeotec 7 says 50mA, hopefully that shouldn't cause any issues even on low-powered SBCs

[glacial oracle]

i think the usb spec would say 500mA, but unless they extremely cheaped out you get a lot more than that

no that totally should work, even on a pi with a compatible power supply

[noble pilot]

I have schlage encode and encode plus. Encode is wifi there seems to be a HomeAssistant plugin that you can use to automate it and get it into HomeKit. Encode plus is Apple HomeKit compliant if you have an apple hub (atv or pod).

[drifting ember]

well schlage now have integration built into HA as of today MEKetone

for the wifi stuff

[vapid flume]

anyone know what size ferrules to use with shelly...

guess it depends on the AUG of the initial wire

[zealous dune]

That's how ferrules should be used.

[edgy roost]

Is the orange pi cm4 module compatible with HA yellow? http://www.orangepi.org/html/hardWare/computerAndMicrocontrollers/details/Orange-Pi-CM4-1.html

Same connectors on it

[zealous dune]

same pinouts?

[edgy roost]

Says compatible with all cm4 boards

[zealous dune]

so do other cm4 compatible boards that turned out not to be

[edgy roost]

Yeah I wouldn't bet money on it but hard to beat the 8gb version fir under €60 and the dodgy availability of the cm4 boards in general

[zealous dune]

its not that hard, all it has to do is not have all the features expected from a CM4

[terse pebble]

Most likely not, as the hardware is not tested for that and the OS is tailor made for the Yellow hardware. And for Orange Pi there is no such OS with the necessary device tree - even if it would be electronically compatible.
You would be on you own - hardware and software wise

On top of that - not a single report about something else than a CM4 working with the Yellow base board yet.

[edgy roost]

Yeah I can see the os being a problem not mention it uses different chips than the cm4 etc

[signal barn]

Does anyone have any experience getting dy-sq100b water leak sensors working with rtl_433? I'm struggling to figure these things out and so far haven't had much luck. I've found some info on using them with the sonoff rf bridge, but I really don't want to add yet another piece of hardware to my system.

[keen light]

I am planning on swapping my 64GB samsung Micro-SD card to a ""WD Purple 128GB card""

What would be the best way to do this?
-using a linux system to make a 1:1 copy from Micro_SD_A to Micro_SD_B.
-clean install, and revert trough a backup/snapshot

Based on its specs, this card would be a great solution for Home-assistant as even the 64GB version can handle at least 16TBW.

[winged knoll]

Option #1 would be simplest

[jagged crypt]

thoughts on the Sonof Window/Door sensor? Looking to put something simple on the garage door, front door. My sonoff temp zigbee stuff works without fail, but was wondering about their simple magnet sensors.

[winged knoll]

#zigbee-archived could tell you about them

[hexed galleon]

I have a meter which Is not compatible with flume

Also It Is outside my home far away from an electical plug

Any idsa to track home water usshr

Usage

[zealous dune]

Large solar panel, battery and a camera

[subtle meadow]

has anyone used one of these tuya wifi or zigbee breakers in teh US?

I need to find a way to disrupt split phase power into my solar inverters. All these breakers seem to be for 220 single phase, I assume they would work with split phase but I want to be sure.

I'm open to alternatives too. Just trying to find a way to cut off the AC input because sometimes teh device uses AC power when I want it to rely on battery

[tacit burrow]

@hexed galleon I'm thinking about one of those esp32 things that read the meter with a camera and ocr

[proper flicker]

Hi All,
Just joined the bandwagon about an hour ago. Has anyone ever setup a FUT089Z (miboxer remote)? I got a couple zigbee bulbs hooked up already through mqtt and can control them, but I do not know what I'm doing yet for this remote. I am just trying to start with the equipment I have already working. I read about setting up zones 101-108, but I am not sure where to start. Any help or point in the right direction would be appreciated.

[drifting ember]

is it a zigbee remote?

[proper flicker]

yes it is

[drifting ember]

then #zigbee-archived would be a great place to start

[proper flicker]

Alright, I will post there. I searched already but didn't see a whole bunch on this.

[drifting ember]

yeah I've not heard of it before, but doesn't mean the folks over there haven't

it takes some getting used to, but all the resources are here

[tawny viper]

i have it

I can help

[tacit burrow]

What's the best way to power/connect (network) to 1-2 esp32 at distance? Maybe 130m. Seems too long for POE. I see some switches have "cctv" (or long range) mode. 10mbit would be fine I think...

[proper flicker]

Just jumped in today... is there a "best" of zigbee/zwave devices list link or recommendations?

[proper flicker]

Nevermind I guess, just went nuts and bought everything on amazon to test..

[patent river]

You can buy "PoE extenders" that are essentially a two port switch, boosts the voltage and gives you another hundred metres

So long as you account for the extra current it has to draw (so after one of them you might only be able to draw 11W from 802.3af instead of 13W, and 23W instead of 25.5W from 802.3at, they work ok

Presuming we're talking about outside so needing to be weather sealed, https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09FXY9DH5

[tacit burrow]

Ok good good. Will check it out

[patent river]

They don't tend to be cheap, because it has to be a switch rather than just messing with the PoE and passing through the ethernet (since the distance limit for both is 100m)

Actually looks like the Ubiquiti one might be cheaper: https://ubiquitistore.com.au/product/uacc-lre-ubiquiti-long-range-ethernet-repeater/

[tacit burrow]

I'm thinking about how to power and receive data from 1-2 esp32 which could read my gas and water meters. We don't have any smart meters at all there...

vs inserting a user-controlled smart metering, which would definitely require plumbers/gasfitters, and would presumably be way more expensive

[patent river]

How would you interface with the meters?

Also those kinds of distances, this is 100% what LoRa is for 😉

(To give you some idea how freaking awesome 900MHz is, my LoRa gateway is mounted under my house, with a 6dBi antenna. My detached garage is the opposite side of my neighbour's house, which means the signal goes through the floor of my house, at least one interior wall, the exterior wall, the neighbour's entire house, the outside wall of the garage, and finally the floor of the garage, and I still have 3-4dBm of SNR)

Possibly some of that signal is also going through the (concrete) retaining wall and some of the lawn between us and the neighbours

[gentle fossil]

given that I've done poe of about 150m length this could totally work especially because these are <1w.
lora is way more powerful though, goes through 10 walls of concrete and a big fat steel plate like there is nothing
how do you read them? there is multiple options out there from reading blinking leds to reading full 7-segment displays automatically

[tacit burrow]

Something like https://hackaday.com/2021/02/07/an-esp-will-read-your-meter-for-you/

https://github.com/jomjol/AI-on-the-edge-device

[gentle fossil]

they just recently broke the lora distance record with 1336km

[tacit burrow]

Yeah, I've still got to provide power anyway, so figured I'd do PoE if possible. Solar+battery sounds a bit hairy (and there's no real sun near this spot, too many trees)

And would need esp32 with eth/poe, which I'm totally noob at. People talking about numbers of pins, not being enough, etc etc 🤷

[patent river]

Wow, that really is the killing-ants-with-an-atomic-bomb solution

[gentle fossil]

get 2 lora boards, another 150m of 5v cabling should not be more than 50$ max I guess, worth a try

or just go with 12v and use a step down

[final latch]

Hi guys! I apologize for asking here, but the network cable situation is driving me crazy. TLDR, I live in a house that has my office in a building next to it, so I need some cables that can run underground in a conduit pipe - there’ll be 3-5 cables in this pipe. I know I want solid CU, but do I need some sort of shielding? Or could I just run U/UTP? It’ll be a permanent solution, so I don’t wanna cheap out! Thanks ❤️

[tacit burrow]

Why so many cables?

[final latch]

And on top of that; for internal cabling, would solid CU U/UTP be the right solution?

[patent river]

It's a bad idea to use shielded cable between buildings that don't share electrical ground.

[final latch]

I’m having several outdoor setups. And for backup

[final latch]

Didn’t know that! Interesting!

[tacit burrow]

Wouldn’t you just have a switch at the far end anyway?

[final latch]

I will - but I’m wanting to have that switch be far away, whilst also having some switch needs closer. So essentially keep the in-building switching on one cable, and the out of building cable on another

[patent river]

Any difference in the ground voltage at the two ends will flow through the shielding, which is liable to cause more issues than it solves.
If you can, you should run fibre.

[final latch]

And a 3rd for backup - and 4th for what if

[tacit burrow]

I have two outdoor runs. Both just use basic cat5e in a conduit. It’s fine. They’re electrically joined anyway

[gentle fossil]

fiber?

[final latch]

I’ll also be running a single fiber - but I would prefer to stay with RJ45 for now

To reduce complexity

[gentle fossil]

what

[tacit burrow]

Distance? Speed?

[final latch]

Distance under 50m

Realistically 30

[tacit burrow]

A switch with fibre sfp+ and pre terminated cables is pretty easy

But for 30m who cares? Just run whatever you have already

[final latch]

I have a bunch of ubiquiti USW Flexes, so I’m trying to avoid relying on fiber

And then eventually upgrade

But is it U/UTP 100% then, @patent river ?

[patent river]

If you absolutely must. Shielded cable (Cat6A, or whatever) underground. Terminate both ends of the cables with keystone jacks. Connect the jacks to the building ground at one end only (you could use metal jacks on one, plastic on the other to ensure that). All patch cables inside at both ends should be regular unshielded Cat6 (not 6A).

That'll break the ground sufficiently that it shouldn't cause you any drama

[final latch]

How come it wouldn’t be 6A?

[keen light]

What I use is a Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 Plus Type E adapter.
Which works quite well, without issues

As for devices depending on your needs, you can get cheap and decent {Temp/door} sensors on aliexpress trough the 3=5.99$ sale {sensors range from 3.30-5$}

It all depends on what kind of devices/sensors you want.

[golden thorn]

The E model would be a bad choice if they want to use Z2M

[knotty fractal]

Hi everyone. This is kind of a noob hardware question. I’ve been running HAOS on an RPi with an SSD for a couple years with mostly zwave devices, a few Shelly switches, and just starting with some WLED esp32s. My network equipment is unifi. I’d like to add fault tolerance to the underlying hardware, including being able to manage it remotely. Specifically, I want a 2nd HAOS instance on alternate hardware with its own backup zwave hub to which I can remotely switch the operations. Based on other advice, I’m going to setup proxmox on a tiny pc, and will run HAOS under it. I’m reasonably technical, but I’m no sysadm and don’t want to get into separately managing core, supervisor, etc.

The pc I bought has a 1T NVME ssd and 32gb ram (but could go to 64gb). It has space for another 2.5” drive. I don’t have a NAS and don’t need tons of local storage, as I don’t do local media or want cameras for frigate, etc. however, I do want plenty of space to try different VMs for ad blockers, virtualizing 1 or 2 windows instances, influxdb, node red, and related items. This article https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/06/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide.html is very helpful, but assumes a NAS. I’d welcome advice re: whether to add another SSD, it’s size, and how to configure space for the Proxmox OS vs VM space on them. Thanks!

[glacial oracle]

Adding another two SSDs is probably smart. That way you don't unnecessarily perform writes to the host and you can run em as raid in case something somehow goes wrong

[knotty fractal]

Thx, but there is only space for 1 more internal SSD, but I guess I could run another via usb.

[golden thorn]

1TB for the VMs is probably enough. It's usually a good idea to use a separate boot drive but it's not necessary.
If you go the proxmox route it probably makes most sense to have only one HAOS VM that is kept alive via proxmox's HA system and a PoE Z-wave stick.
I'm not familiar with Z-wave. Not sure if there's any LAN "coordinators". Of course you need more than one machine for a cluster.
Another choice would be to use something like keepalived and have duplicate HAOS instances but having both running is probably not gonna work.

[glacial oracle]

USB would work but then not really spanning a raid over it. Probably not the best way of doing it

[knotty fractal]

How about OS on the external drive, then use RAID 1 on the 2.5” and m.2 drives?

[signal barn]

@subtle meadow I didn't see that anyone had answered your question about a breaker for your setup. I used an industrial contactor tied to a smart relay (sonoff mini) to be able to cut power to our stove for safety reasons when we aren't using it. Just pick up one with high enough current capacity for the circuit and with a 110v coil and put it between the breaker and the load.

[glacial oracle]

It probably isn't that smart like that either due to the probably large performance differences of the two drives. Kinda could end up with it performing as good as the slower one of both

Also usb drives are notorious for high latency operations which aren't that great to run an os off.

[golden thorn]

I wouldn't raid disks that are that different

[knotty fractal]

Even if both are internal? Apparently it is possible to add 2nd m.2 NVME, but requires some soldering on the board (ie, there space but no connector). I’ve done soldering in my day, but not sure I’m up to doing so on a multilayer pcb with smt components throughout. Need to inspect it upon delivery today.

[glacial oracle]

It's effectively two different drives talking two different protocols at two different speeds

[knotty fractal]

Got it. Makes sense

[glacial oracle]

I don't think most raid setups will have an issue making it work but it's everything but optimal

If it has onboard wifi over an m2 card, those slots could be repurposed for SSDs as well if I remember correctly. But don't quote me on that

It should work without raid also for playing around. Just make some backups run to a USB storage and I'll be rather save even

[knotty fractal]

My understanding (to be verified upon receipt) is that uses an E key, which might make finding one that fits difficult.

I’m beginning to wonder if I should return this device to Amazon and find one with 2 M.2 slots. Of course more $ likely

[glacial oracle]

For mini pcs that is rather difficult as they tend to just pass through cpu capabilities

[zealous dune]

don't try to make a mini pc into a fully fledged home lab

[glacial oracle]

I know from minisforum that they have up to two additional sata ones on the larger models but really they cost like a lot more

It's probably isn't worth it

[zealous dune]

get a mini pc and run HAOS on it, otherwise get some server hardware

[glacial oracle]

This isn't really a solution to fit most

[zealous dune]

why not?

[glacial oracle]

Unless you have a reasonably large house with rather free access to electricity it's just too big, too loud and not nice for the power bill

[zealous dune]

thats when you buy an enterprise server

[glacial oracle]

The amount of mobile chips with extended Io capabilities is fairly low

[zealous dune]

server hardware = something with more than one pci, sata and memory slot

[knotty fractal]

All good points and factored into my wanting to go with a mini pc

[zealous dune]

you cant milk a mini pc for all of that without sacrificing performance and probably stability

[knotty fractal]

Performance (speed) isn’t very important. Stability is.

[glacial oracle]

People do it with the raspberry pi all the time. We surely can squeeze mobile systems a bit more

[zealous dune]

performance != speed

people also transport construction materials in hatchbacks

but you do you

[knotty fractal]

Fair enough. To clarify, important is size, temp, and stability, and availability. Not important is overall storage size, throughput, speed.

[zealous dune]

but whats the application of the machine: a simple smart home server or a home lab with multiple VMs and whatnot

cause i see RAID being mentioned as well

[tacit burrow]

My minipc has two m.2 slots I think. I replaced wifi with 2.5gbe nic

[knotty fractal]

What brand and model, please?

[glacial oracle]

Realistically whatever you run on it likely isn't as critical that you'd need to worry about most of those things if you follow through with making basic backup

[tacit burrow]

Lenovo m910q

Per smarthomesellout link

[knotty fractal]

Hmm. I’m getting the 920q, also based on his advice re Lenovo. Are you also able to run a 3rd drive in the 2.5” location?

[knotty fractal]

Yes, I will follow 3,2,1, etc.

[zealous dune]

then everything said doesn't matter since those are not mini pc's 😄

[knotty fractal]

Lol. TeenyTinyMini. 😉

[zealous dune]

its not their naming scheme but the fact it runs desktop hardware

[knotty fractal]

Thinking about this further… with solid daily full backups, are you suggesting that RAID 1 mirroring isn’t a big deal? Then, I could get an SSD for the OS and the VM on the 1T m.2 drive… and see how that handles things. I could always get a bigger one if needed.

[iron cargo]

hi o/ im quite new to HA, but have experience with home automation in general, and come from a networking background..
im trying to add a matter device - i have a nanoleaf thread bridge - and cant seem to get it to finish

the information on the forum/internet is rather.. chaotic, i guess because its a rather new tech. are there any specific prerequisites i have to have networking wise for it to work?

the device is a sonoff mini4rm, and the log of the matter integration thing says

[golden thorn]

Screenshots of text aren't liked very much here. Use a code block.

[iron cargo]

understood, unfortunately i dont have it in text anymore as that was a few hours ago (just sent it to friends as well) but will do next time

[outer knot]

To format your text as code, enter three backticks on the first line, press Shift+Enter for a new line, paste your code, press Enter again for another new line, and lastly three more backticks.
```yaml
example: here
```
Don't forget you can edit your post rather than repeatedly posting the same thing.

[tacit burrow]

I only have 1. I use nas

[golden thorn]

I don't use raid either

[knotty fractal]

So same drive for OS and VM?

[golden thorn]

For proxmox I currently use a SATA drive for boot and a NVMe for the data

[abstract bobcat]

What kind of smart switch would you recommend for someone in America with neutral wires where I need to support 3 switches going to the same light, and those lights are smart so I'd like a smart bulb mode ("detached mode" for Shelly), and prefer zigbee, but wifi can work, but I don't have zwave

Relays are also good, but I havent found any that are detached as well as 3 way

[gloomy spoke]

I like my Inovelli Blues

[abstract bobcat]

Oh, and to complicate things I prefer to keep my existing cover plates, which are toggle stylr

[fringe crater]

I'm confused why you care about "3 way" at the same time as smart bulb mode. Once you're doing smart bulb, the light is not actually switched, so why would it have to be 3 way?

Or are you going to be going in and out of smart bulb mode.

[abstract bobcat]

I want to be able to turn the smart bulbs off using either my phone or the physical switch, and some are zigbee routers so I really just want them always powered

So I can't just update one switch and have the others stay "dumb"

[zealous dune]

You can depending on the wiring and the "update"

[abstract bobcat]

Well it's the "update" that I'm concerned about. I'm not sure what the wiring is other than I have 3 switches that control the same bulbs

[hexed galleon]

Thing is that I cant cover the meter because a delegate from the water company comes once a month to write down the water usage to make the bill

[zealous dune]

Some relay modules can have such switch setups running but it all hinges on how they're wired

[valid aurora]

Hi all! The extractor fan in my bathroom is currently connected to one of these - https://amzn.eu/d/6yC83RU - in the utility closet. I'm hoping to control it with a ZigBee device so I can connect it using home assistant to a humidity sensor.

Does anybody know of a replacement ZigBee device that will perform the same purpose but control it remotely? I'm guessing I couldn't just replace it with a light switch

[stark root]

I absolutely can not get my UPS to be seen by home assistant so I can use it with NUT. I'm running HA through VirtualBox. Here's what I tried

*USB passthrough is on and Ive tried USB 2.0 and 3.0 settings
*Its been added to the USB filter and its is recognized in VirtualBox fine.
*Windows sees it as a battery until I connect in up to VirtualBox too.
*Ive tried 3 different USB on my PC that are 2.0 and 3.0.
*Ive also installed the powerpanel software and its see the UPS fine and gives me data.

All this and home assistant wont display it under the hardware page. Is there anything else I can try or should I just get a APC backup and hope the integration works fine?

[terse pebble]

Does the NUT add-on recognise the USB device. If configured correctly, it should.

[stark root]

Do I have to configure nut? When i do the add on it asks for the host and port with username and password. I thought you didn't need to configure anything

[terse pebble]

https://github.com/hassio-addons/addon-nut/blob/main/nut/DOCS.md

[raw cosmos]

How to fix a corrupted sd card?

[zealous dune]

You buy a new one and restore a backup

[raw cosmos]

The latest backup its from march :/

In the backup it contains aaaaall of the things?

[zealous dune]

All the things important to you

[raw cosmos]

Cool

Is there anything to do to revive the card? I thing i corrupted it by unplugging the power from the rpi4

[fringe crater]

what are the symptoms?
Are you trying to revive the data, or just save the hardware?

if you can get it open in a file browser you can maybe try to salvage something

[raw cosmos]

The rpi is not booting, i took off the sdcard and put it in the windows laptop, it identifies e and f drives but i cannot browse and are veeery slow

I cannot see files

[fringe crater]

I'm not sure if that's expected or not, don't remember how the card is formatted and if windows can understand it by default or not

[stark root]

omg thank so much. I didnt know I had to add it through the add on store. I was just trying to do the intergration. Its works now.

[fringe crater]

I don't know if the problem is just you have one bit flipped somewhere in the data, or the entire insides of your card is scrambled electrical goo

[raw cosmos]

Is there anything to run and fix any bad sectors?

[marble burrow]

I don't know if this is the best section but has anyone figured out how to add a hard drive or a share to home assistant .. going to Settings>System>Storage used to work about 3 months ago .. I added two shares but now you cant add a share anymore and I have never found a way to mount a drive that is installed in HA's 'box' it sees the nvme drive that runs HA and it sees the sata drive that's plugged in tho it doesn't seem to hae a way to use the sata drive. I'm trying to get frigate off the HA drive so I don't fill up my OS drive. Can anyone give me some direction? or if this is the wrong section can anyone point me to the right place ? 🙂

UserX a windows machine will not be able to read linux files ..so you need a linux machine to work with the sd card and since you cant boot the rpi you wont be able to ssh into it so .. I think you are going to have to get another sd card .. install rpi OS again and maybe be able to use that to possiblly recover or fix the first sd card or on the windows machine you can install virtualbox and a linux vm and try to use that to repair the sd card and sd cards are very unstable so the other suggestion of having backups is also a very wise decision

[glacial oracle]

not sure if you found a solution, but may i throw in the watermeter from homewizard. they fit on plenty of meters and can easily be detached and moved around

theoretically attaching a sensor to the spinning wheel and reading quantity from that would also work with an esp, but its a nice package

[patent river]

One of the threads I saw suggested some meters have a magnet you can read from the outside with a reed switch and simple pulse counter.

Possibly worth investigating, before going down the rabbit hole of vastly more complicated solutions

[glacial oracle]

yea thats what the spinning wheel is for. tho i have yet to find a reed sensor sensitive enough to react - maybe a hall one would be better for such things

[tacit burrow]

I think my gas meter might have a spot where you could do that, but the water is seriously old, like >50y, and looks super mechanical

[gloomy spoke]

https://tenor.com/view/water-wheel-mill-gif-19806697

[tacit burrow]

pretty close 🙂

[hushed panther]

I've just started playing with esp devices and finding a hard time to understand the "logic" of programming this way. Does anyone know any training or good source of information to share? I have been able to run various simple tests looking at random stuff around the internet

something dedicated to esphome stuff would be great. I've got some of those m5stack devices with lcd, wanna play out with that, see what I can build

[abstract bobcat]

So if I have a Shelly plus 1, could that work in a three way in a way that'd let me keep it on detached mode? Idk where the travelers would go

I have a neutral wire

[spare barn]

Can you draw or describe me roughly how your three way is wired atm? I can’t brain rn

[timid spear]

Can Phillips Hue lamps be controlled locally? Say my internet goes down.. I can't find any ZigBee devices locally

[glacial oracle]

Yes hue will work locally even without a internet connection

However your network still needs to properly forward stuff to the bridge

It should work similar to any other ZigBee device in that regard. Excluding horrible stuff like tuya, for those it's good luck

[knotty fractal]

I’ve seen some good stuff on YouTube like this https://youtu.be/iufph4dF3YU?si=VK3fWTcirJ2rxE7x

[zealous dune]

only 2 years old

[knotty fractal]

Fair enough, was just trying to point the OP in the right direction

[zealous dune]

epshome.io is the right direction

[abstract bobcat]

I don't know, unfortunately, and won't until the electricians are here. I'm kinda hoping for advice like "if it's wired this way then yes if it's wired this way then no"

[knotty fractal]

This one popped into my feed. https://youtu.be/1nkgTtTWnPM?si=3SM8Zm0_UwTbC8Oy

2 weeks old and 70k views. Hope it is helpful

[knotty fractal]

Hi. I just setup promox on a mini pc and restored my Rpi HAOS backup following the instructions in Derek Seaman's blog. The instructions recommended keeping the 4GB default RAM on Proxmox for the VM. however, the vm monitor is showing that 94pct of the 4gb is consistently being used, whereas on the 4gb Rpi, the system monitor consistently shows about 53pct being used. Is this difference normal? Should I investigate anything (logs look similar on both machines)? Do I need to allocate more RAM on the Proxmox version to give it more headroom? Thanks.

[glacial abyss]

A few noob questions here. I have a handful of wifi smart devices lights bulbs, plugs and a Sonoff iFAN04L (which made me start down the HA route)

1. How did you decide on a zigbee implementation? Tasmota, deCONZ, etc? Or are you using multiple?
2. What brand dimmers/light switches for US? I have neutral wiring
3. Smart receptacles vs plugs? Lots of plugs for cheap but in a couple of places I'd like to replace the outlet itself.
4. Zigbee temperature sensors vs BLE sensors? Which are more reliable?

Thanks in advance.

[knotty fractal]

Might want to ask in #zigbee-archived

[glacial abyss]

Proxmox might be “reserving” the allocated RAM. Try glances to see what the OS says it’s using

[knotty fractal]

Thanks. My turn to be a noob. How do I check that please?

[glacial abyss]

I think there’s actually a glances add on in HAOS or HACS

Glances is a python task monitor

Or you could also just throw 8GB and see if proxmox says it’s using 8GB then you would know it’s reserving the RAM

[knotty fractal]

Great, I'll try those!

[glacial abyss]

I usually use ESXI haven’t migrated to proxmox yet but I don’t need to know VMware as much these days

[knotty fractal]

Btw, I use mostly zwave 🙂, or I'd help with your #zigbee-archived questions. One of the youtubers did a review of a bunch of different zigbee switch options recently. Lmk if you'd lime the link.

[knotty fractal]

I'm nearly new to the linux world

[glacial abyss]

Sure drop it in

[glacial abyss]

It’s nice in the sense there are no DLLs or registry keys. Everything is stored in txt in config files. But if those config files get messed up watchout. So have a backup

And finding said config files is not always easy but HA makes the install straight forward shouldn’t have to play under the hood too much

[knotty fractal]

Thanks. You were spot on regarding the memory. I upped it to ~9gb, and the monitor shows 77pct used. Concern resolved.

[knotty fractal]

https://youtu.be/9u_kQ9gW9Cg?si=oInzVG6LVEF2foX6

[glacial abyss]

👍 most likely database process grabbing as much RAM as it can

Thanks for the link I have seen his stuff this is good comparison of switches

[subtle meadow]

So i just discovered a dimmer switch that is an touch screen? Has anyone used these? Can they be reprogrammed because it seems like it might be tied to an app

might be better to use cheap tablets but for its price, turning a light switch into a small touch screen seems awesome

I tried searching here for "Smart Touchscreen Dimmer Switch" and foudn no mention of it

what sounds better. something 3d printed enclosure for a pi zero and touch screen , or findind a cheap android tablet

[glacial oracle]

Either solution seems like quite a lot of power consumption for what effectively is a light switch

Maybe an esp with a touch sensor area would be more sensible

[zealous dune]

why are you replying with that to me?

[knotty fractal]

Accidental swipe. Didn’t mean to ping you.

[lyric mortar]

If it’s possible to generalize, would folks say it’s common to use some sort of sensor to measure sunlight for automations eg blinds or lights? Some googling didn’t turn up a lot of great commentary or guides etc but I may not have been searching correctly

[undone wave]

I went with zigbee2mqtt as I like the idea that other systems other than HA could interact with them, never ended up needing it but at the time I used node red a lot. Over time I have tried deconz, z2mqtt and zha and found z2mqtt has the best range of device support.

[knotty fractal]

I can’t speak to common, but I use lumens to determine if bathroom sensor turns on lights or not. I have on my list to use sun.sun with elevation and azimuth plus weather for some shades.

[undone wave]

Not US so cant answer the 2nd one, smart receptacles can be pricy but better aesthetically, but smart plus are easier replace and upgrade.

[lyric mortar]

Got it, thanks! Do you have a lumens sensor you recommend by any chance?

[knotty fractal]

For bathroom I got one that includes humidity, because that senses if shower is on so lights don’t shutoff. Choice depends on if you use zwave or zigbee. I have an aotec trisensor and zooz zse11, happy with both.

[glossy prism]

I've got a light sensor on the eaves on the east and west sides of my house to determine outdoor light level

[lyric mortar]

That’s something I’m thinking about doing. Hardwired, I assume? Would you recommend a device?

[nova rampart]

Since the Pi 2 doesnt work with Matter, does the Pi 3 work?

[glacial oracle]

Why replace an unsupported device with an unrecommended one

[nova rampart]

Thats all I have right now, Pi 4's are all out of stock

[glacial oracle]

Id probably wait instead of being disappointed with it's performance

Not that the gen4 ones are significantly greater

[nova rampart]

I dont really need performance - the Pi 2 works well already for me, I just want matter to be working

I already have a Pi 3 with me so if it's 1000 times worse I can always switch back, I just want to know if matter's compatible with it

[glossy prism]

Battery powered actually. Xiaomi Zigbee light sensor: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/GZCGQ01LM.html#xiaomi-gzcgq01lm

It's worked well in temps from -25 C to 35 C

[lyric mortar]

Thanks so much for the rec. Cheers

Is there any widely popular / trusted single source of device reviews, or does one just have to google? Sometimes the range of options for, say, a humidity sensor (or whatever) on Aliexpress can be daunting to sift through. (I’m new in case that wasn’t obvious.)

[glacial abyss]

Good point, my ideal product would be a smart receptacle with USB C built in I haven’t seen any.

[nova rampart]

Are there any good smart locks that work with home assistant? Preferably something with a handle since this is for a garage

[signal comet]

I guess my question is, are there any good smart locks at all? So far I have yet to see one LPL is impressed with.

[nova rampart]

I’m not too concerned about picking (I have a garage door anyway and it would prob be easier to pick another lock) I’d just want something I can unlock with my phone

[signal comet]

fair enough

[tawny viper]

Yale makes the only ones i'd buy

plus you get doorsense, so you have a door sensor

[static horizon]

Not sure if this belongs here, but I've got this RGBW bulb that I just flashed with tasmota, but it is showing up as a switch and not a light. Any way I can make this a light to control the dim / color? https://templates.blakadder.com/gosund_WB4.html

I updated the template with the one on that page but it didn't seem to change anything

[idle pine]

So I thought for this 120/240 AC converter I could just run a 14/2 romex from a nearby outlet. Am I way off? I'm confused because there's nothing to put the ground to in the mount box.
https://mbmounts.com/blogs/all/charging

[glacial oracle]

I am not quite sure why you would need a 15A rated cable to power what effectively is a phone charger

It lacking a ground is probably as dangerous as it would be for normal wall chargers in this case

[idle pine]

The idea is more to hide the box in wall (I know there are bunch of ways to accomplish this). Somewhat limited on what wires can hidden behind walls

But a charger just plugs into a wall outlet that is 15A or whatever and the charger converts the power. This is the same idea, basically a dedicated outlet that only powers this

[glacial oracle]

It's excessive for what you intend to do

[devout parrot]

If it's rated to go inside the wall sure, you could pigtail off the wires that power your outlet and run the wires to it. What's the actual draw on that power supply though, 5A? You could get away with smaller, cheaper wire, I'd say 16ga would give you plenty of wiggle room in case something goes wrong and yes, there's no ground because USB chargers don't typically have one.

Power surges might be a concern though if the power supply doesn't have any protection built in for that.

[fringe crater]

I don't think you can pigtail thinner wires. No matter how little you claim the power supply consumes, if something shorts out internally, the wires will catch fire before the breaker trips.
14ga seems like the minimum for a circuit protected by a 15A breaker

[cold moon]

ya i'd just make a recessed outlet like he's thinking of

[tawny viper]

Poe is a great way to go if you can

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087F4QCTR this is what i use lol

i just dont use the eth for anything

[devout parrot]

Something I figured out if you're running an athom wled controller: the firmware update utility in HA will fail because you have to use the .gz version of the firmware file. So you've got to grab the correct bin from the wled GitHub, pop it in a gzip archive, and then upload that to your controller via the wled interface. Just in case anyone else runs across that issue.

[cold moon]

that shouldn't fail..

https://github.com/home-assistant/core/issues?q=is%3Aissue+is%3Aopen+label%3A"integration%3A+wled" i'd open an issue if one isn't open. what it does is check for esp01, esp02, esp8266, esp32 etc to try and grab the right file then updates it

i just updated a few controllers using esp8266 and esp32 using the wled integration in hass and it worked

it will update and write over a specific fork without caring tho

like if you were running audio reactive custom compiled then home assistant would update and the audio reactive would be gone

altho as i say that, this release specifically compiles audio support into the "stock" wled - just an example

[devout parrot]

Could be because the gzipped copy of the firmware file isn't on the wled GitHub and that's where HA gets the updates?

The athom controller doesn't like the plain .bin

[glacial oracle]

yo did hue discontinue the lightbar line?

all i can find is remaining stock of the single black ones with a power supply but no more white nor sets of two

[cold moon]

Diy light bar when

[cold moon]

https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/p/hue-white-and-color-ambiance-play-light-bar-double-pack/7820231U7 ??

lol

[glacial oracle]

i must be blind

[cold moon]

using their site isnt great it's too.. nice lol

[glacial oracle]

yea i found em below 254 sets of random bundles

well guess i can rest well then

[cold moon]

diy led strips are the way to go man

[glacial oracle]

no i hate how they do not secure properly onto stuff

they have a larger wall one but thats unreasonable priced

[cold moon]

You use aluminum channels with diffusers

[glacial oracle]

That's only half as cool

[modern oak]

Any recommendations for UK smart plugs with power monitoring built in? Preferrably WiFi (local only though) but Zigbee works too

[zealous dune]

https://www.mylocalbytes.com

[frozen agate]

Have you looked at Shelly?

[modern oak]

Quite expensive indeed for a single plug

[zealous dune]

you can always buy Tuya and cross your fingers

[winged knoll]

Salus (SP600 from memory) is a UK Zigbee plug that does monitoring

Not likely to be cheaper than those Local Bytes sell though

[glossy gyro]

Hey, Milk-V seems to have a lot of traction over PI, especially Milk-V Mars & Milk-V Meles.
how is support for that, maybe in combination with #yellow-archived ?

[glacial oracle]

Considering Shelly is only about 4x what Tuya ones costs, id not bother with it being entrapped

Id suppose support is somewhat non existent

[winged knoll]

Do you mean in terms of support by Home Assistant OS?

[modern oak]

I actually missed this response, sorry, there are actually pretty good compared to the Shelly pricing

[tawdry isle]

So i successfully connected my aqara m2 hub to homeassistant via homekit and all my sensor is now visible
The problem is that i don’t know which is which 🤓
Anyone have a good way to identify them?

[winged knoll]

What types of sensors?

[tawdry isle]

Temp.
I just took them one by one and stuffed them in the fridge and watch when the temperature lowered

[winged knoll]

Your breath would also work

[glossy gyro]

ya

[winged knoll]

https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/releases

Not seeing anything that suggests there's support

[glossy gyro]

it's probably also a 2 part question, where the #yellow-archived one is replacing PI CM module but i guess it's built specifically for CM

[winged knoll]

You realise that there's no hash-tags here, that's a channel

[glossy gyro]

i know 🙂

[winged knoll]

And no, the Yellow won't support it unless it's identical to the Pi CM module

[glossy gyro]

so, "when" the OS support RISC-V then i would need to use the SkyConnect dongle.

[winged knoll]

Or other Zigbee coordinator

Don't hold your breath on support though

[glossy gyro]

kinda figured 🙂
but it is getting a lot traction and Risc-V is def. interesting now where PI still has chip shortage problem or what ever they call it these days. 🙂

Is Assistant OS based on Debian?

[winged knoll]

BuildRoot based

[glossy gyro]

ah

so that's why it's a pain in the .. for me to install the "OS" or the software on my current PI where i have octoprint & pi-hole i learn something everyday

[winged knoll]

HAOS also uses docker for the add-ons

[austere dome]

Hi. I'm in the US (Northeast).

I'm want to make my existing garage door openers smart (LiftMaster/Chamberlain with purple learning button). Some of the solutions I've seen don't support the purple learning button models. $50-100 per door seems reasonable to me though I would probably pay even a little more.

Reliability is important and it seems MyQ isn't reliable.

A coworker suggested the konnected opener: https://konnected.io/products/smart-garage-door-opener

I also do have some NodeMCU development boards laying around that I could use but something in a nice case is more appealing than DIY.

Should I consider replacing my existing 13-year-old openers? The openers themselves aren't that expensive, but installation probably would be.

[gloomy spoke]

It looks like it just supports an open/close switch, which won't work directly with many openers.

DIY with an ESP8266+reed switch+genetic opener would cost less than half that

The laser sensor to detect the open door is clever, though

[wooden fossil]

Ratgdo should work

[sterile coyote]

I've an old laptop that doesn't support AVX instructions for frigate and have issues running whisper etc. I'm holding back on buying a newer system for about another year. If I was to buy the coral usb accelerator would this solve my issues?

[patent river]

Shame no-one makes anything like that for roller doors 😦 Reed switch works well enough though, I guess.
They missed a trick though, with a wider voltage input range there's a good chance you'd be able to power it from the door opener.
Mine provides a 24VDC output, that I'm using to run the (LoRa) I/O box that's smartifying it.

[gloomy spoke]

I mostly see reed and tilt sensors

I moved from a zwave thing to an ESP and haven't looked back

[patent river]

I've seen DIYers use ultrasonic too

Same way that one is doing it

[gloomy spoke]

Would position it right to get partially up

[novel jewel]

Hi does anyone know of anything that will push physical buttons and intergrate with ha, switch bots are too big. My end goal is to stick these to my standing desk controller to automate standing. Thanks in advance. Please ping me with response 🙂

The controller has an rj45 port but I wouldn’t know where to start debugging that I’ve seen a few people’s done it but not for my specific desk

[patent river]

I assume you're talking about the likes of this? https://github.com/tjhorner/upsy-desky

[grizzled heron]

Hey Folks,

I'm about to switch to a HP Elitedesk 800 gen2 but I'm a bit afraid of just having USB3 ports available for my Zigbee dongle.... Am I ok with a usb2 extension cable?

[timid scaffold]

What about the Milk-V stuff makes it more interesting than all of the ARM and x86 single board computers? Milk-V is based on RISC-V which is a different instruction set that doesn't have nearly the market penetration that ARM and x86 have. This is the first I've heard of Milk-V, so I don't know a ton about it

[zealous dune]

Why are you afraid. A USB2 extension turns it into a USB2 port

[grizzled heron]

Read about interference from active/used USB3 ports

[zealous dune]

Still not a thing to really fear

[patent river]

On a lot of PCs you get an option in the BIOS to just disable XHCI (USB3) and leave EHCI (USB2) only.
It'll (most likely) be one setting for the entire machine so you'll have no USB3 at all, but if that's a thing you're concerned about, and aren't planning on using the machine for anything else.

[glossy gyro]

I agree.
But license wise etc it's really different. So i do hope it gets traction and is "easy" to convert to.
Maybe they can use arm64 builds.

[timid scaffold]

It'd be nice to see an open ISA catch on

[jolly cobalt]

Hey guys, I am trying to buy some Zigbee light switches. Does anyone use the Aqara E1 light switches (no neutral)? I am trying to figure out if they will act as a router or not, because it's not written in the description. It's this product - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004748913027.html The No Neutral 2key

[zealous dune]

They won't

[gloomy juniper]

Hi all! As a newbie, I would like to connect different devices to HA and eventually automate my house. I need a CCTV, intrusion detection system with curtain (widows), door magnet and movement detectors. I have the blue wire (N) in all light switches and window electric curtains, garden irrigation system . Where should I start reading, which items I can buy (220v 50Hz) to make this setup. Thanks 🙏

[tacit burrow]

Break your problem down into small steps, solve each. There's no need to pick everything up front.

Pick one system, work on that, make sure it meets your needs, etc.

eg: cameras and NVR and vision-motion detection and alerting...

[tacit pilot]

Any suggested alternative to the Switchbot Blind Tilt? Nothing against it, just wanted to compare options but wasn't able to find anything else like it

[vale schooner]

Hello,

Can you tell me how to connect the Aqara hub to Home Assistant.

[tawdry isle]

I had to reset it and then connect it via homekit.

[gloomy juniper]

Can you recommend in such systems?

[tacit burrow]

I have Reolink camera and nvr which is fine. But madeinchina of course

[gloomy juniper]

I would like to get your recommendations regarding a intrusion detection system. The system need to support door magnet, window curtain and movement sensors. I would like to order such a system from a source that can ship worldwide (Amazon, AliExpress, etc).
Much appreciated!

[terse pebble]

German Shepherd dogs are not sold on Amazon and AliExpress

[terse pebble]

It depends on what you want. With Home Assistant and off the shelf smart home sensors you could do that yourself.
If you want it wired or need certain certifications, it gets more complicated.

[winged knoll]

Yeah, I use HA and Alarmo for that, supported by (mostly) Zigbee sensors

[gloomy juniper]

Where can I order those sensors? I prepared tunnels to wire those sensors to a centralized location, if you recommend I don’t mind using those tunnels only to power them up and use zigbee for communication.

[winged knoll]

Zigbee wouldn't use wires for power, and you can buy those almost anywhere (AliExpress is usually cheapest) - just don't buy Sonoff or Tuya

Generally though your country controls your options

[hard goblet]

UK here: would like a smart-ish thermostat, usable with (and ideally with Homekit/matter) - that isn't too expensive so that i could install and leave it behind as renter... Is there anything that would allow me not to buy a Nest?

[gloomy juniper]

This is great, but I’m looking for a recommendation on something specific I can buy 😅. Yesterday I asked about magnetic track light that supporting zigbee and I’ve been told that its not recommended buying from Ali.. you seems knowledgeable, please advise 🙏 I’m from Israel, I would like to control the light color and brightness, no strong opinion about the protocol, budget - up to $130 per meter of magnetic track light with lamps. Security system $1000 for a system with 10 sensors, $500 for a CCTV with 4 cameras and HD.

[patent river]

I mean you could just spend ALLLLL the money and buy Hue: https://www.philips-hue.com/en-gb/products/smart-track-lighting
People who have it seem to love it, gotta be a reason for that.

[outer knot]

@gloomy juniper Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[gloomy juniper]

I’ve updated the info. Thanks

[tacit pilot]

Any suggested alternative to the Switchbot Blind Tilt? Nothing against it, just wanted to compare options but wasn't able to find anything else like it

[tender aurora]

which esp32 module is the "recommended" one?

wroom-32?

i'm looking to use the pulse counter thingy

[winged knoll]

#diy-archived can better answer that

[winged knoll]

That's more for #integrations-archived - if you tell people what integration you're using

[gloomy juniper]

I think of buying magnetic track light from AliExpress. @winged knoll what is your opinion about that? I’ve found several models that can work with zigbee2mqtt. But maybe I should go with a model that works with triac dali v0-10 instead?

[trail flower]

Im new in HA, and looking for affordable (cheap) hardware to use as a dedicated screen to display my dashboards on.

The google nest hub is very affordable, and seems like a perfect match. Ive researched how to cast the dashboards to this device and it all seems rather doable. However, I also read quite a few issues/troubles in this whole process.

Since I have to buy hardware for this purpose anyways, would you guys advise to go the nest hub route, or steer away from it for a different kind of less restrictive tablet that can serve this purpose. If the latter, what would be a good low-end go-to tablet for the sake of showing dashboards?

[cold moon]

fire tablet running fully kiosk is a decent option

[trail flower]

Interesting. Ive considered this one, although it is double the price. Not that im against spending a bit of extra on this, but i have nothing in the amazon ecosystem at the moment, while i do have things setup in the google ecosystem. So because of those 2 points im more drawn to the nest hub.
Of course, if the experience in combinatino with HA is night and day between the two devices, the choice is easy 🙂

[cold moon]

on sale fire tablets are $75 for newest gen but a used decent android one might be even better

[zealous dune]

Tablets running modern Android are around 80$ depending on screen size

[cold moon]

https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/windows-linux-tool-fire-toolbox-v32-2.3889604/ you use this to de-amazon the fire tablet and install the google play store btw

[trail flower]

Aah intersting! Thanks for sharing. Ill dive into that a bit.

[cold moon]

yep. then you either 3d print a mount for it, make one out of wood or something, or just buy one like the MB mounts by mike ones https://mbmounts.com/

[winged knoll]

I think of buying magnetic track light

[cobalt heath]

Anyone knows if you can mount a custom wall switch on a shelly 2pm ? my wall boxes are rectangular

[terse pebble]

If you mean to connect a dumb switch to a Shelly to trigger it: yes

[cobalt heath]

Thx ! Do you have examples ? The wallbox in the stone wall is rectangular, shelly wall switches are designed for round wall boxes

[terse pebble]

If enough space is available it doesn't matter

[cobalt heath]

True but you need a means to screw the wall switch to the wall

I solved it by drilling custom holes around the wall box but that's a bit a mess

For example this is a round box: https://www.gamma.be/nl/assortiment/legrand-inbouwdoos-holle-wand-enkelvoudig-50-mm-geel/p/B449841

[terse pebble]

It should not need more screws than before. Remove switch - rewire the Switch and Shelly - reinstall switch. Or let it be done by an electrician

[cobalt heath]

this is a square one: https://www.solyd.be/nl/helia-inbouwdoos-universeel-d-65mm-z-vijzen-7651.html

I have the last one, not the round

the shelly wall switch expects a round one

[terse pebble]

If you don't tell the Shelly 2PM, it won't notice it is sitting in a square box

[cobalt heath]

True, but I am talking about the wall switch

https://www.home2link.nl/shelly-wall-switch-2.html

that one

[zealous dune]

Those have a list of compatible Shelly modules

[terse pebble]

No. You have been talking about some undefined custom wall switch with a Shelly 2PM until now

[cobalt heath]

Sorry, I will rephrase

So as said, the wires are coming into a rectangular wallbox

I know that the shelly relay fits into such a box

that's not the problem at all

I am looking for a wall switch, the thing that you push the buttons on, that can be mounted into a rectangular wallbox

the shelly wall switches are designed for round wall boxes

am I clear now ?

[zealous dune]

Is the distance between the mounting screws in square boxes around 60mm?

[cobalt heath]

Not sure, the box is around 60mm wide

[zealous dune]

Then the standard EU switches should be mountable since the round boxes are around 60mm diameter as well

[cobalt heath]

I need a pulse switch right ?

[zealous dune]

For what?

[cobalt heath]

to trigger the shelly relay

but I think I found another solution, you have custom screws that you fit inside the wallboxes

then I can screw the shelly wall switches in place

[zealous dune]

Any normal light switch will do that

[acoustic shore]

I have two Sonoff Micros installed. They are constantly dropping offline. Unlike my 40 other devices in HA. Tasmota devices all are good, as are all my devices.

I have SonoffLan installed in HA to control them. They are configured to be local.

Looking for suggestions that can make these devices reliable.

[zealous dune]

Dropping of from wifi completely or just marked unavailable by sonofflan?

[acoustic shore]

They are showing unavailable in HA and the one time I looked in eWeLink they were unavailable there. I forgot to check in my router, I will check there next time also. They do go back available instantly if I press the power button on the side of them.

[uncut ridge]

Wondering what people use for bluetooth beacons here. I want to put one on a cat outside, but I don't really see any great solutions anywhere.

[zealous dune]

I use Crepak beacons

[drifting ember]

tile around the collar

[zealous dune]

how big is your cat?

[uncut ridge]

average size. 9-11 lbs

right now im using a pawscrout bluetooth tag which support ibeacon, but the company is discontinuing that, looking for better options

[uncut ridge]

is there something in particular that you can loop through a collar ?

[zealous dune]

yes but not exactly cat sized

what does it matter if they're discontinuing it

it will still beacon

[coral solstice]

I looked through the history on this channel, but couldn't seem to find a good recommendation for a motorized curtain for a "standard" center opening curtain with a looping pull chord on one side (I don't know what these curtains are officially called). Ideally an integration with Zigbee, but anything that works with HA without needing another hub would be great (I have ZigBee and ZWave integrations already)

[uncut ridge]

she loses them a lot and it opened my eyes to see if anything better is out there

can you tell me where you bought them from? unless it was their crepak.com website directly

[zealous dune]

aliexpress

[coral solstice]

I was looking at this: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805672682270.html which seems like it may work, though not sure about the power of the motor

[uncut ridge]

have you looked at switchbot?

[coral solstice]

those seem to only offer the "rolling on the rod" type of motors, not the standard one that can integrate with an existing curtain that has a looping chord on the side

pull on one side of the loop to open, and pull the opposite side of the same loop to close

[uncut ridge]

not to come off harsh but if your blinds / curtain system is that unique, maybe time to switch to something that is commonly supported?

[coral solstice]

maybe I'm not describing it right... did some more googling.. it's a single traverse rod with a center opening

draw curtain I believe

[zealous dune]

your motor strength is more concerned about the weight of the curtains than the system

[uncut ridge]

do you use your beacon for a cat or just something else?

[zealous dune]

else, my cat isn't a fan

i quickly got tired of hunting for it around the neighbourhood

[uncut ridge]

which one did you try for that purpose?

[zealous dune]

Scepter R23, the smallest one

[uncut ridge]

i see on their website they have this, and it looks like i could loop it through a collar

how did you attach the R23?

[zealous dune]

a seamstress wife made a pouch attached to a breakaway collar

[uncut ridge]

it looks like the R42 has a good collar attachment option

[zealous dune]

isn't that a bit huge for a cat

[uncut ridge]

the one im using now is pretty big, im about to go measure it to see . need a minute

[uncut ridge]

the one im using now is 1.47 inch diameter && .452 inch thick

so its not far off from being the same size

[zealous dune]

poor cat 😄

[uncut ridge]

i have 3 radios around the house to help locate

[somber tartan]

Hi ! I'm buying some dimable lamps, that can come with either TRIAC, PUSH or DALI. I don't have any WiFi controller yet. Which one should I buy to have the best compatibility with controllers and home assistant please ? 🙏

[rich venture]

i would get dumb lamp and a smart bulb
or dumb lamp and a smart plug with dimming

[somber tartan]

The thing is it's a "design" lamp, that comes with it's integrated bulb and dimming stuff

[uncut ridge]

did you have to do anything to configure the beacon? or just power it up and it started to broadcast? i was looking at https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804091073590.html and it says Please be aware that Orb 10 supports AOA protocol, it needs to work with Crepak Bluetooth AOA gateway Alpha G100 to gain 0.3-1m positioning precision, and it can be only configured by Crepak specific bluetooth reader, not able to be configured by phone.

im guessing i can still use it without having a crepak bluetooth reader, right?

[zealous dune]

if it doesn't say it supports ibeacon it won't work

Only Crepak Scepter line is ibeacon compatible

[uncut ridge]

well the title of it says 1.5 Years NRF 52810/Small Waterproof Battery Replaceable Wearable Bluetooth AOA Beacon/Ibeacon/Active RFID/BLE 5.0 Tag Orb 10

[zealous dune]

then buy it and if doesn't you might have a basis for a refund

[uncut ridge]

it has the same title on ali as the r23 you have actually

just wondering

[shell laurel]

anyone have any experience with the Tapo S505 or Tapo S505D?
looks like the integration isn't great: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/matter-in-wall-light-switch-and-dimmer-tp-link-tapo-s505-and-s505d/590483

[tawny viper]

I just did that, I got a gleptro controller and a remote. Replaced the one of the cord.

The dimming was all on the cord, made it easy

[gloomy juniper]

I’d like to start with HA and I don’t have access to purchasing HA yellow. Currently I can order from eBay, AliExpress, or Amazon for parts. What should I buy for a robust setup that will support a robust setup? Should I go with a Pi, laptop, other? What extension should I buy (like zigbee2mqtt) and of which manufacturer? Budget up to $500-1000. Thanks!

[zealous dune]

A miniPC

[tacit burrow]

Search back in this channel. Eg used Lenovo thinkcentre m910q

Smart home sellout pastes the link pretty often

Waaaaay better than any pi, and still like 10-15W

Should be about us$100-150

@gloomy juniper

[zealous dune]

Or, you know, buy a new one

[gloomy juniper]

I have an old laptop thinkpad w520

I7 from like 5y ago

[winged knoll]

That'll be just fine

[gloomy juniper]

🙏

What OS I should flash it with?

[winged knoll]

Depends... do you want to dedicate it all to HAOS, or run HAOS in a VM, or not run HAOS at all

[gloomy juniper]

I didn’t used it in the past 3y so I don’t care to have it dedicated for HA

[winged knoll]

Well, if it supports UEFI you could flash HAOS, or install Proxmox and run HAOS in a VM

Proxmox is the way I'd suggest, if you want HAOS

And if not then Debian + Docker

[gloomy juniper]

It does support UEFI

You suggest to go promox? I’m ok with docker. I’m working with docker as an engineer on a daily basis

[winged knoll]

Well, then Debian + Docker all the way

Proxmox is for those who want to use HAOS because they're scared of Docker 😛

[gloomy juniper]

Ha lol 😉

What about dongles? It takes like 30 days for shipping. What should I buy in advanced?

I’ll probably have zigbee devices, I’m not sure what else. But I rather other dongles as well

[winged knoll]

Well, the relevant channels can answer that, eg #zigbee-archived

That will depend on whether you want ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT, and whether you have PoE networking

[gloomy juniper]

I’ll neee zigbee2mqtt for sure

Not sure what ZHA is..

And I’ll have PoE, at least I hope I will 😅 my house will be ready in a month

[winged knoll]

Then Tube sells great network connected coordinators

[outer knot]

Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.

Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.

Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.

[jagged crypt]

Have a pile of hue zigbee bulbs + hub (into hue integration) on HA. Moved into a house with a pile of recessed lights (6" cans), and the price of hue recessed lights ($45) vs wiz-wifi lights ($10) is considerable when I'm looking at 20+ lights. I'm in a relatively unpolluted 2.4ghz area, any issues with wiz-lights with HA integration? Looks like some people complaining online with the ligths falling off the wifi network. My initial purchase for one room seems to be fine, any other opinions?

[cold moon]

wiz are generally considered shit

[jagged crypt]

networking or color rendition

[cold moon]

ms for wifi iirc

[jagged crypt]

guess i'll see how the first week goes then

hopefully the lack of conflicting 2.4 in the area will help

[cold moon]

#hardware-archived message

[jagged crypt]

getting far better than that right now with hue motion sensor -> hue hub -> ha -> light

(the referenced 500ms)

but if bulbs firmware have memory leaks or other crap, then SOL on me

recessed options are far more limited

[cold moon]

i have 7 hue recessed cans in my kitchen and i've been very happy with them

buy once cry once i guess

i wish i got the rgbw just cuz the price difference is minimal

[gloomy juniper]

Wdyt - 5y old Lenovo thinkpad x250 (i5 5200u 2.20, Samsung SSD 860 evo 250gb, 8g ram) - is it suitable for HA with all the VM and things…? Haven’t been using it for while..

Or should I go with something used from eBay for $200?

[zealous dune]

it's suitable

if "things" doesn't include face recognition on 12 4k cameras

[gloomy juniper]

Lol no. 30 lights, 4 security cameras, 14 sensors

[jagged crypt]

smarthomesellout, yea i was looking at $45 for white, and $50 for color hue, would do color. But $2000 in lighting to avoid using the light switches is a hard sell. Have the current wiz lights in my office to see how they work, but will hold off expanding collection for right now.

[cold moon]

i hear you

[idle shoal]

Has anyone used RTL_433 on a Yellow?
What SDR dongle or device did you use?
Does the Yellow have enough processing power to handle all the RF traffic and filter the desired messages?

[kind wind]

Doing research on touch pad for use with home assistant. I have found the Samsung Tab A6 lite (2022) to be meeting my desire to use a tablet that can get power and connect to the network via a cable. (PoE if unclear) Does anyone know if the follow-on Tab A7 lite of A8 has the same ability to connect to the network via a wire vice wifi? (Thanks in advance)

[gloomy juniper]

tube and Electrolama are no longer available - sold out 😦

[cold moon]

@marsh lichen any idea when new stock for PoE coordinators are coming back?

[marsh lichen]

I have devices in stock now

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/view/will-ferrell-elf-buddy-the-elf-throne-of-lies-christmas-gif-3580667

Haha jk

[marsh lichen]

non poe was out of stock, but I just added more. poe was in stock though

[gloomy juniper]

anyway, which model is preffered

[cold moon]

Ya that’s non PoE cuz of the power cable lol

Cool kids use PoE and one cable only

[gloomy juniper]

i'm not sure if I'll have PoE

my house is not ready yet, I hope it will 🙂

[cold moon]

Ok then don’t get a PoE model lol

[gloomy juniper]

do u have a model that offer both?

[cold moon]

Honestly that doesn’t make sense

[winged knoll]

You can use a PoE injector anyway

[cold moon]

You add your own network infrastructure including a PoE switch

Actually he can use a PoE splitter and get the PoE model

And just not use the splitter if he has PoE

[gentle fossil]

if you get the usb one there is poe splitters with usb easily available

[gloomy juniper]

is there a reverse splitter? I mean add the P to the E? 🙂

[gentle fossil]

#hardware-archived message

"PoE Injector"

[gloomy juniper]

lol thanks

@marsh lichen - do you ship to Israel?

thanks @gentle fossil !

[tawny viper]

he ships international

[marsh lichen]

yes

[gloomy juniper]

final question, what about other protocols such as zwave, thread, BT, Wifi, etc. Should I get additional adaptors? Is there a super adaptor that handle all of those?

[marsh lichen]

zwave has differing frequency around world so I don't get into it. thread is a mess right now so wouldn't worry about it if you have apple or google gear they likely have thread you can use too.

[gloomy juniper]

i have a mac and iphone... does it count?

so which model should I buy from your store?

[marsh lichen]

no - homepods and 4k appletvs I think do it.

for zha either cc2652 or efr32 based devices will work fine. for z2m use cc2652

[winged knoll]

There's no "one size fits all" adapte, and frankly you don't want or need one

Buy them as you need them

[gentle fossil]

the new iphone and supposedly pixel have thread

no information yet how that gets used

[gloomy juniper]

@marsh lichen

[marsh lichen]

👋

[gloomy juniper]

https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p2-based-zigbee-to-ethernet-usb-serial-coordinator-2023/
vs
https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p2-based-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/

I'll go with cc2652

which one is preffered?

[marsh lichen]

the differnce is how they are powered. one is via usb-c and the other PoE only

(the usb-c one can work over usb too)

the 2023 models are modular in design, so the zigbee module from the usb-c ethernet version could be moved to a poe capable board at a later time.

[gloomy juniper]

I guess that the usb-c is preffered, if I have PoE I'll use a splitter like suggested above

I'm not going to move it a PoE board :), If you can sell something like that i'll get it

just let me know before i place the order 🙂

[cold moon]

he already answered you lol

[gloomy juniper]

not sure he did 🙂

[marsh lichen]

no I don't sell splitters

or injectors

[zealous dune]

Start selling a PoE starter kit 😉

[tawny viper]

or an amazon affiliate link

[gloomy juniper]

or make a model that support both PoE and USB... 🙂

Anyway, I placed the order. Thanks 🙂

@marsh lichen - If I bought the wrong item, gift it to the most active superstar player in here, and I'll buy the right one

[marsh lichen]

the payment looks like it failed, likely the card company blocked the charge it happens from time to time

[gloomy juniper]

You're right

please check now

[marsh lichen]

got it, thank you

[gloomy juniper]

is this the right channel where I can ask silly questions about smart switches, light, sensors and food?

[terse pebble]

Smart switches, light and sensors yes - food not so much.

[zealous dune]

Unless it's smart food appliances