#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 34 of 1
I'm always happy to support open source, and move away from corporate stuff. Pretty much dropped Microsoft from all my devices this year
Moved my key vaults to Bit warden, and paying them monthly for hosting to support them
Until Linux gaming is more than just a collection of steps to ‘kind of be like ms’ I’ll still be using windows for gaming and general desktop stuff
Steam is pretty good for Linux gaming
The only windows app keeping me back is Fusion 360, only because I struggle so much to design in FreeCAD
Once I stop having so much building costs I hope to be able to send some funds towards Home assistant as a thank you for such a awesome product. Even if I've not been actively using it for 3 years
They don’t accept donations lol
You can subscribe to various GitHub repo owners like zwave js etc
They do have the subscription though which funds home assistant development
Sounds good, I will get them something when I have a bit more solvency. Glad to hear it's possible
I wish more companies worked that way. Free for basic home use, but able to pay when you can, while also being open source to see what's going on and help make it better
Or the business model that TrueNAS or PROXMOX use. Where it's free for home users in a lab setup. But enterprise support is available for business use
Again, asking for help to troubleshoot the crashes of my Raspi/HA. Power supply is 5,1V/2,5A. The Raspi is idling most of the time, HA is up-to-date. Both main chips are equipped with aluminum heat sink.
Raspi/HA is crashing every 3-4 days.... 😲
The #installation-archived channel is the best place to get help with broken installs too
hello party people
I run HAOS in Proxmox running on 4 x Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6260U CPU
Works well, but I don't have all that much addons and stuff
At least 4 GB, more is handy
And no, because what's "good" depends on your budget and requirements, and where you live
i dont like buying small and having to upgrade later. so i'm thinking i7 8gb+ seems ideal
i would install this on my NAS, but i keep my nas on a seperate subnet from my IoT devices
so i want something deticated to that subnet
used lenovo m910q or similar mini pcs on ebay are pretty popular these days
https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/06/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide.html people either do this or install haos native usually
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385670237223 link i've shared previously for an $80 one
lenovo m910q looks awesome
it do
make sure to ugprade the bios using their windows tool since it comes with windows pre-installed. otherwise you gotta go cli with rufus
then wipe windows and install w/e
we dont do hubs yo
oh
for zigbee you buy a coordinator, for zwave a controller
for thread/matter.. just ignore those for now 😛
Part of the point of HA is to move away from manufacturer locked crap
sure
and then it sounds like matter is coming up
and how do zigbee things get controlled?
I have about 100 Zigbee devices in HA, and not a hub in sight
whats the diff between a zigbee hub and coordinator? is a hub locked to manuafcature?
they're a bit pricier but are nice because you can centrally locate them well
got some links for poe zigbee corrdinators?
tube's is popular: https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p2-based-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/
i thought zigbee was "mesh" and i would not need too many devices if they mesh
otherwise there are linked ones on https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
not devices, but coordinators
wired devices mesh except for a few random devices that dont like sengled bulbs
there's only one coordinator
One coordinator
Many routers
routers (mains powered devices) repeat the signal (unless they are one of the few that dont)
popular zigbee routers are light bulbs (hue, ikea), light switches (inovelli, aqara), or smart plugs (third reality, innr)
no
but also yes?
do you want a mesh?
if devices are close they can talk directly to coordinator
if not, they need a next hop router or multiple to get back to coordinator
No routers, no mesh
No routers, you get a maximum range of about 6 to 8 meters from the coordinator
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/743144302334443622/1007083298767507507/unknown.png this is what mine looks like
green are end devices (not routers) using routers to get back to coordinator
this is all done for you, you just buy the shit
you dont configure routes or anything like that
@past saffron I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
that's all possible
The WiFi stuff though may not work with HA
but yuck on alexa and yuck on wifi cloud switches
i agree, this is why they are on a special subnet 😄
A lot of "works with Alexa" tends to be cloud centric crap that won't play with HA
zwave was mature 10 years ago
it's been mature a long time lol
however in the state we currently use it at here it's way better
well, maybe the protocol, but getting devices and other things work all connect and work with apps and stuff, i dont think so
well that's where home assistant comes in
Z-Wave stuff all works together fine.
zwave isnt magically gonna work with homekit
how does HA allow me to control devices when outsdie the home?
https://github.com/zwave-js/node-zwave-js/issues/5471 not sure if you've read through this tinkerer
simple port forwarding?
Yes
tldr companies are putting out shit firmware for zwave devices being super chatty fucking up the mesh
Or the cloud service you can pay for
Thankfully my Z-Wave mesh is now dead
or free mitm service like cloudflare
basically we're in the same boat as zigbee- just buy specific hardware from specific manufacturers that dont-suck
zooz, inovelli, aeotec
altho you will laugh at this..
Yeah, no Tuya, no older Osram, and no Sonoff 😛
this is the routes that a device is usinghttps://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1111193771820974112/1136341259431190698/image.png https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1111193771820974112/1136341259221479484/image.png
ok, so my first goal is to simply be able to get smart plugs to turn on/off based on temp readings from two sensors
instead of a direct connection from 1 back to the star
al calzone said controller routing was a black box basically
i have two third reality temp sensors, zigbee
That's all easy, if you get both into HA
i also have the third reality zigbee hub, and you are telling me that is trash now, so it's gone
yep
after updating the bios*
then I'll get a zigbee coordinator
and somehow connect that to the lenovo m910q
and then i can start some magic
right?
what is that? some protocol?
you'll run it as an "addon" in home assistant OS
so the coordinattor is not wired to the lenovo m910q
addons are docker containers that "add" additional functionality
that's a benefit of a PoE coordinator
otherwise usb coordinators are directly connected
or using something like socat to enable connectivity over lan (advanced and not suggested unless required)
Well, the coordinator probably won't, handle it at the switch if it doesn't
ya the PoE coordinator is just gonna be like a tiny microcontroller
nothing wrong with a usb coordinator if your home assistant install is gonna be centrally located
or if you just dont want PoE
it's a big house, so i dont think one will cover it, if mesh does not work
you'll just want to use a usb extender to move the coordinator away from likely interference
no, but the more centrally located the coordinator the better
less hops = faster and just generally better
USB 3.0 can cause your Zigbee devices to fully stop functioning. In this video we show this by moving a Zigbee device and Zigbee adapter next to USB 3.0 port and cable.
The demo is done with a Home Assistant SkyConnect and IKEA Tradfri remote but this affects all Zigbee sticks and devices.
To avoid interference, use a shielded USB 2.0 extensio...
i see
30 second video showing interference^
The mesh will work, even if you're in a McMansion 😛
if your server is already pretty central then the usb stick will be fine
well, i've got APs and a ton of wireless shit, i know for a fact that there is plently of interference in my house
i've got 433mhz stuff with my broadlink device
weather station radios
GMRS base station
lol
the issue is specifically interference close to the actual coordinator
i see
of course 2.4ghz interference will hinder everything if it's overlapping but ultimately we need to limit interference right where the coordinator starts
like that^
well, i can mix USB + PoE, yea?
for example, could I get a USB coorinator now, to make things simple, then when I expand, get some PoE ones to add to the mix
as a reminder, you only have one coordinator
and the mains powered devices you will be buying are repeaters
ok gotcha
but yes you could technically get PoE repeaters if you were so inclined
so USB seems the way to go if I only get one, as the "Central" location in the house is where the lenovo m910q would be at anyways
sure
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
that's what i'm currently using but i have a tube's PoE one arriving today lol
Don't buy the Sonoff P though... any other recommended one is fine
i've had good luck with mine :/
only a handful of people have had that nvram corruption issue
More have had issues where it locks up under load
i see
ok cool
i'm going to start fresh moving over today i think
cuz i need to change my network key, pan id, and ext pan id
i think i just have to literally do one at a time 😦
Nah, you can do it all in one
I've done it before, it's not that bad IMO
i was thinking about deleting one device at a time (i have 90% hue bulbs) and then joining so i can copy/paste the names
so, if i cant use WIFI devices (the cloud ones, and that's ok, i dont like shit phoning home) - what are some good BRANDS to get?
third reality? there supported pointined me to HA since Alexa sucks 😄
but the issue is if i start close to the coordinator and move outwards eventually my old mesh wont be able to talk to the bulbs further away with no more routers inbetween
Third Reality, Innr, Hue, Linkind, Xiaomi (with caution), Develco, Gledopto, and more
depends, hue is gold standard for zigbee but you pay a premium for it. thirdreality smart plugs specifically are popular. different brands are more popular in different countries too
Really depends on what you want to buy
ye
how about light switches?
Country?
US
Surprise 😛
for usa i'd only buy inovelli blues but they're literally $50 each and backordered
if you only want smart switches not smart bulbs then i'd go zwave instead
zwave has a better light switch selection. zigbee has a better everything else selection and usually cheaper
you can also run both meshes but mixing zigbee light bulbs and zwave switches means your switches dont do anything if hass is down
so usually people do either or, or dont mix them like that, or do knowing the downsides
I run both
Hass means home assistant
ok, but i was under the impression if HA is down... nothign work?
If you use a smart switch with a dumb bulb it’s still gonna kill power to it or turn on
If you use a smart switch with a smart bulb and home assistant is controlling the bulb after seeing a button press on a switch, it won’t work if hass is down
That’s what I just said
Why would HA be down? 🤔
I would start by trying to mitigate the chances of that happening first. I haven't had more than a few minutes of downtime during updates for years
It’s very stable yep
i dont want smart bulbs
we have crazy lighting here with fixtures that have like 10 bulbs on them
Be a lot cooler if you did
it would be crazy expensive
Yea
i would need like 100 smart bulbs
Zwave Smart dimmers are probably your best option then
Or inovelli blues if you have money
🤣
Sure... in a couple of years, once it matures
Matter is still very much in its infancy. Nowhere near mature, stable, and fully featured.
Hell, there's already issues with people doing their own extensions since the official spec is so limited
Hi, i'm trying to check which zigbee plugs to buy.
i see 2 models :
- NOUS A1Z (small, 16A, power consumption)
- Aqara Smart plug SP-EUC01 (a little bigger, 10A only, power consumption, but with a t° sensor included....)
The temperature sensor is useless for room temperature
Any mains powered device with an internal sensor is just telling you the temperature of the device itself, which will be hotter than the room
ha ok thx.. like the Hue motion sensor ?
i found a tester saying that Nous A1Z is less powerfull in communication ? is it real and boring or not ?
(i would Nous, because supported at lower temp, and want to put one in the garage
I'd also recommend looking at Innr
The SP120 does power monitoring, the SP220 doesn't, but has power on behavour options
In general though, #zigbee-archived can better advise you on Zigbee hardware... at least if you remember to mention the country you're in
Hi guys. Im having some problems with this gsm module here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087Z6F953/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sometimes when i use it in HA then it seems like its loosing connection
2023-08-04 19:36:21.392 ERROR (bellows.thread_0) [bellows.uart] Lost serial connection: SerialException('device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)')
2023-08-04 19:36:21.394 ERROR (MainThread) [bellows.ezsp] NCP entered failed state. Requesting APP controller restart
2023-08-04 19:36:21.397 WARNING (MainThread) [bellows.thread] Attempted to use a closed event loop
2023-08-04 19:36:24.395 ERROR (MainThread) [homeassistant.components.sms] Error fetching Device signal state data: Error communicating with device: ERR_DEVICEWRITEERROR
2023-08-04 19:36:24.482 ERROR (MainThread) [homeassistant.components.sms] Error fetching Device network state data: Error communicating with device: ERR_DEVICEWRITEERROR
Can someone translate this to what happenig
what is it plugged into?
my Intel I5 nuc there is runnin HASS Generic x86-64, its only running Home assistant directly
nope
wait do you mean the homekit controller integration https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit_controller/ for local control?
or ecobee's built in homekit support?
then no apple device needed
using the link i shared above
uses homekit over wifi with hass creating a "bridge" that mimics native apple homekit
that is what i have and use
the different ecobee versions dont matter as far as this goes tho
unless there's not support for some new features on the new ecobee versions with homekit-controller idk
i wouldnt waste your money on their room sensors tho. buy zigbee or zwave ones and use hass to control it
I ended up going with one of the known supported Honeywell thermostats. Integration works great!
yea
ANyone ?
You probably would be better askng in #integrations-archived - but Error communicating with device suggests a hardware related issue
Had a chance to check the edit time yet?
Hi all, can anyone tell me which is pin one on the jumpers please?
I am speaking about the HA Yellow bdw (forgot to highlight that piece of info)
There's a #yellow-archived channel
Do you mean the GPIO pins? If so, have a look at the #yellow-archived channel. I have posted the GPIO layout there.
Has anyone ever had any issues with smart plugs seemingly causing a minor surge spike when on a powerboard with other devices? Every time I turn my lamp off (plugged into the same power board as my computer), my speakers pop and my desktop monitor turns off temporarily.
sounds like a grounding issue
hmm, the plugs are tuya-cut and had functionality for energy monitoring (which I don't need so didn't bother configuring in esphome)-- could that cause an issue?
anyone here is using a Tasmota smart power plug?
I'm having issues getting it to connect to my router. I followed the guide on connecting my mobile phone to the device and select a 2.4Ghz band SSID name and put its password. I then get an error saying it failed to connect "check your password".
I know the password to be correct, yet I try it again and it works the 2nd time, but then it keeps dropping connection from the router. It appears there for about 6 seconds and it's gone, then it's back on again in my router's list of connected devices and then it's off again.
It's not able to maintain connection to the router. The device is 2 meters from the router.
Hi all, currently have HA installed in docker on a Pi4B 4GB. I have a intel Nuc with a pentium N3700 processor and SSD doing nothing (it used to run plex embedded before they shelved it)... would HA run better on the NUC or stay where it is on the Pi4b?
NUC : https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/87740/intel-nuc-kit-nuc5ppyh.html
Intel® NUC Kit NUC5PPYH quick reference guide including specifications, features, pricing, compatibility, design documentation, ordering codes, spec codes and more.
Define what you mean with "better"? Is it unstable, or do you mean as in better performance?
just better performance... it currently isnt 'unstable'... just wondering if the NUC would be a bit 'snappier' then the Pi??
on CPU compare alone the NUC has a better passmark... it also has intel quicksync for the HD video and can decode/encode 4k.... but its like 6 year older hardware...
Yeah, from this it would seem you will gain some
Let's not forget you won't be using an SD card in the NUC also
I would give it a go if someone else don't see something I don't
that was my thought process... currently the Pi4B had scrypted in anothe rcontainer and z-wace.js in another... i have a Razberry 7 Pro hat on it... so would just dedicate that pi to being a zwave hub and then move the scrypted and HA containers into the NUC
i have the pi running an SSD on USB3... its been stable and is pretty quick
🥲
the NUC has an SSD in it... ive just installed ubuntu... now just the learning curve of transferring my install from one to the other...
Well if you had haos it would just be a backup/restore
Yes
with haos... could i still run scrypted on the NUC also?
UPDATE MAY 2023: I’ve been working with the Scrypted developer and they’ve implemented my project as the official Scrypted HA addon! As a result I will not be maintaining this addon any further and you will need to add the Scrypted repository for the new one - see here for more details: Installation: Home Assistant OS · koush/scrypted Wiki · Gi...
If there's an addon
Hehe, you bought more internet
is that the server?? or just an addon to access the server in HA?
something to access the 'server' would be an integration
this is an addon
😉
thanks... (obviously im pretty much a noob) i fumbled my current install together from following guides... it works fine... but the NUC should pack a little more punch
As there is a smart assistant voice/text to speach (piper?), as a replacement to things like Alexa. that I only became aware of yesterday. Where would be the best place to look into the development, and possible hardware requirements (any chance an old echo dot could be converted to the system?)
they told you in #frontend-archived that that is an #installation-archived problem 😉
Haha, many channels can't send pictures, and I can't find where to ask....
well you don't have to send a picture in the channel you can't send a picture you could send a link to the pic you already posted
😉
I'm not familiar with discord. Thank you for your help.
Please use imgur or other image sharing web sites, and share the link here.
Image posting is blocked in most channels to discourage people from sharing text as images. Sharing text as images assumes that everybody sees the world as you do, which isn't the case. Some people are colour blind, or have visual impairment that means they can't make sense of an image of text.
https://www.flipkart.com/intel-boxnuc7cjysamn-windows-11-intel-celeron-4505-4-gb-ddr4-64-emmc-mini-pc/p/itm099cb2686d35f or raspberry pi 4gb…..which one is better? For home assistant os
Ok thanks
celeron is the rpi of NUC's
So both are same?
no I'm saying that a celeron in a NUC is slow
but still probably faster than an rpi
but if you're buying a NUC you'd be happier with an i3 or better
considering buying one with no OS to bring the cost down a little
Ok
An N100 is a good choice and it's latest gen
On eBay it doesn’t seem to matter- if there’s an ssd in it, it’s already got windows preloaded
oh I don't do fleabay
@drifting ember ive moved to HAOS and restored my backup, installed scrypted addon and done the backrestore for it too... but fomr some reason the cameras arent loading in homekit... would i need to re-add them all to homekit again?
im not sure on that
could be worth checking in #add-ons-archived
oh wait sorry
homekit is an #integrations-archived issue
whoops
does anyone have router suggestion for wifi mesh network for smart sensors? I think my ISP router is going "potato" by being overloaded with so many stuff I configured on it for home assistant
Hi, I wanted to ask because I currently own Android, but I'll be switching to iOS in half a year. I have no experience with home assistant. If I now buy a device that is not homekit certified and I would like to control it via the home assistant application, for example from an iPhone, will I not have any complications?
Only if the device can be integrated in HA without complications
HomeKit is for using the native apple ‘home’ app which is pretty barebones compared to home assistant. Ideally, you buy things, put them in home assistant, then share to HomeKit via home assistant if you want Siri control / devices in the home app
Nothing needs to support HomeKit to be used on home assistant iOS app
Has anyone here flashed a Sonoff iFan04 with tasmota or ESPHome without connecting it to the eWeLink server first? The tutorials all say you have to link it to the app to upgrade the firmware, or it won't work. However, those tutorials are many years old and I'm wondering if I already have an appropriate firmware level since I just acquired these devices in the past month.
Thank you very much for the answer. This is what i was looking for. I still wanted to ask what is meant by the connection with Siri in the previous message? Do I understand correctly that I first add the device to Home Assistant and then I can insert it into the homekit application even if it is not homekit certified?
Yes
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit/ explained here
Where are those tutorials?
There's three at the bottom of this page:
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Sonoff-DIY/#compatible-devices
Documentation (Wiki) for Tasmota
Tutorials for ifan04?
Sorry, it's still early here and I haven't finished my coffee, I figured it was relevant across Sonoff devices.
Is it possible to flash the iFan04 OTA at all?
No
I followed https://www.home-assistant.io/voice_control/thirteen-usd-voice-remote/ and it mostly seems fine (I can control the light, HA registers when the button is pressed). But if I press the button (blue light goes on) no matter how much I shout in the mic, there is no blue light flashing. The voice pipeline is set explicitly. I am wondering if the problem might be a broken mic. The ESPHome log shows: [E][voice_assistant:231]: Error: speech-timeout - Timed out waiting for speech. Ideas anyone?
But it is possible via USB/TTL, correct?
I had already installed the controller in the canopy as I was installing the ceiling fan assuming it would be OTA, so now I'll have to pull it out. I guess I should have RTFM'd.
Yeah you've got to flash Sonoff devices via USB serial the first time.
Thanks for confirming.
Done and done, I love that they make it so easy to just add header pins to that device.
anyone here is using a Tasmota smart power plug?
I'm having issues getting it to connect to my router. I followed the guide on connecting my mobile phone to the device and select a 2.4Ghz band SSID name and put its password. I then get an error saying it failed to connect "check your password".
I know the password to be correct, yet I try it again and it works the 2nd time, but then it keeps dropping connection from the router. It appears there for about 6 seconds and it's gone, then it's back on again in my router's list of connected devices and then it's off again.
It's not able to maintain connection to the router. The device is 2 meters from the router.
i use esphome flashed instead but they're probably very similar
Ready to use custom firmware for ESP8266 devices (including Sonoff)
Docs:
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/
They have their own Discord server or you can ask in #diy-archived
I'd recommend joining their Discord, but otherwise try in #diy-archived
is that ./message message:tasmota ?
ye
nvm. After reinstalling and changing the network it’s working.
so i am in the hunt for a smart switch and can do both lights and fan. Both need to dim. Everything in my home is lutron but i can't find one if they make it...
Any ideas?
Dim a fan?
well contol fan speed
That’s very different
Both fan and controller have to support multiple speeds and have a dedicated traveler wire
If this was available to you, you likely would already know this
Why not a lutron fan switch, and just put a Pico on the wall and buy a bigger gang plate?
cant do that since this is on my covered patio and siding is up and has Azek around it. Currently a 4 Gang box
1 x mono price audio key pad - Pool Zone
1x mono price audio key pad - covered paitio zone
1x dual light / fan swith (not smart)
1x light switch (not smart)
I think some Z-wave things exist
for example Inovelli has a 2 in 1 that they dont sell anymore. I've seen them go for 200-300 on ebay
Any suggestions for a cloud free outlet that is fine outdoors? I've got a covered porch with some lights but have gone through 2 tuya-type outlets already (not sure if due to weather or a power surge). The outlet box is covered but none of the others inside the house have died.
And your country is ... ?
Sorry, US
How about having a smart relay inside the house in a junction box that leads outside
im pretty sure that's against most electrical code
Switched outlets are legal here 😛
non-GFCI outlets outdoors, that legal?
the point I was getting at was "call an electrician friend"
Yeah, well, lots of folks here don't care about safe or legal
Nothing wrong wth burning your house down
touche
there is for me, I cancelled my fire insurance
and if I wanna get it back, Imma stick to the code 😉
How are Shelly modules legal then? They are installed in junction boxes and switch loads
I was refering to the 'junction box that leads outside'
Correction: I ment a junction box before the outdoor outlet that houses the wire that leads to outside
yes I assumed that's what you meant originally
in my country that entire circuit would have to be GFCI protected because 'outside'
Very very new to home automation. What should I look for in a smart lock?
And any recommendations in general? I see schlage encode/encode + suggested alot, and aqara?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Your country matters a lot
Doesn't seem to have any radio?
Sometimes there are replacement units you can buy
With a compatible smart thermostat. Idk how your system is set up or what kind of hardware it would support, you might want to consult your preferred HVAC technician.
I recently purchased a Broadlink RM4 Mini and I have a couple questions:
- I read somewhere that you should NOT connect it to the iOS app, is that true?
- Is there a guide for using remote codes from here: https://files.remotecentral.com/library/3-1/panasonic/television/power_control/index.html
I don't think this matters, I had and I don't think it was detrimental. The app sucks though and you'll find it loses its configuration anyway.
I have not seen a guide to using those codes, I used remote.learn_command pretty successfully.
Thanks for getting back, I was able to figure a few things out.
- This is solved by 'unlocking' the RM4 in the iOS app
- Unfortunately, I was trying to use discrete power on / power off and my remote did not have those buttons. I was able to work around it by using my Harmony Remote (programmed to control my TV) which somehow knew the discrete Power On / Power Off!
@frank kayak I saw you posted in #general-archived late last year about successfully flashing a BK7231T with OpenBKT, where were the best instructions posted?
Oh yeah, I guess you have to have the app installed to be able to unlock it.
@iron geyser There's a list of known codes here:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/share-your-broadlink-ir-rf-codes/295055
Oh! Fantastic, thank you
You're welcome, it's not an extensive list unfortunately, but I've added mine in an attempt to help flesh it out.
Smart Thermostats range from $80 (Wyze) to several hundred dollars depending on what features you need or want (habit learning, energy monitoring, etc. That is the easiest way.
There's 30$ Zigbee TRVs and wall thermostats available. You tend to get what you pay for, of course
@zinc steeple I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
I'd suggest a (U)SFF or Mini PC where you're more flexible and can even virtualize HAOS if you so please. Most likely faster and cheaper as well
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385670237223 link i've shared previously for an $80 mini pc "m910q" there are many variants on ebay for reasonable prices with 8gb ram or higher and 128gb ssd/nvme or bigger
impact has suggested in the past to try not to get a T series CPU, so if you can find one without that, it would be preferrable (for power consumption iirc)
@zinc steeple tagging since the bot absorbed your message
https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/06/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide.html this is a popular option to run haos or hass container alongside other things but haos works well installed directly as well
Oh wow, that is cheaper and looks like it has better stuff overall 🤔 That's a great suggestion from both of you. I will have to look more into that and do more comparisons. Do you recommend doing haos or hass? Is there a big benefit for one over the other?
hass is short for home assistant
you meant haos or container
it depends, i generally suggest haos unless you literally just prefer "total control" and like docker compose
otherwise haos has everything you need and you can migrate later if you so choose
yes, sorry
basically people go the proxmox route if they want to virtualize haos or use home assistant docker container install, and also want to do other homelab stuff
it's not necessary if you JUST want to use home assistant
That does sound like a good option
At the prices of that mini pc you linked to, it seems easy enough to just have one dedicated to Home Assistant and I could always get another one for other home lab stuff if I want
TLDR: I wouldn't really worry, you can skip this.
T models have a limited clock speed (and TDP) so they are slower but use less power at max (sustained?) utilization. Idle/low utilization is mostly the same.
Less power can make the difference between passively cooled or not. You just have to weight what's important.
They have their place but if you don't care much I'd chose the unrestricted one, the price is usually similar.
See here for an example: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Core-i5-6500T-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6500/2627vs2599.
It's not that much and doesn't seem to scale linearly.
The benefit of proxmox is also easy troubleshooting (basically a build in monitor and keyboard), snapshots to test and then potentially revert things you otherwise would be too afraid to try. The ability to backup a whole machine and run other VMs/Containers and so on
Yeah, I think I'd rather have unrestricted..
You make a good point about the ease of backups with VM's/containters 🤔
I am appreciating the advice/considerations
It seems like I became a bit too biased from a older, lower end model. The difference for the 6500T isn't that bad
Backup and restore is already built into haos
Proxmox adds very little additional overhead it’s just more to initially learn
If you’re comfortable with that then it’s basically a better option even if you just follow that guide above and never use most proxmox features
I don't use HAOS in production but if I were I'd utilize both backup mechanisms. Both have their uses
the ability to roll back is really nice though.
"I update to the latest release. it doesn't work right for something. I roll back to a snapshot I took just before updating, in seconds. I then wait for the bug to get fixed"
Hey Folks,
I'm searching for a replacement for my old desktop Proxmox Host and came across this mini pc. I'm constsntly searching local computer stores etc but haven't yet found a suitable one. I would like to have a similar performance as the r5 and 16gb of ram which I know I probably would be able to find from used / refurbished thinclients locally. It also has 2 network ports and bluetooth. I honestly think it's kinda perfect... 15-25W TDP for the cpu.. What else do I want more? Do you think it's worth the price though?
that 512gb rom is kind of useless I guess
I have no idea about the ryzen cpus but you might want to check and get one with integrated gpu
oh those have graphics output so that should be no problem
Well, if I want to use it as a NAS, it's kinda perfect. Why would I need dedicated graphics? Not planning to use it as a media streaming service
you can utilize a gpu with way more than just streaming
if you really want to make a nas and have freedom to upgrade I reckon a proper desktop pc / server ?
anyway you can probably find these for 100 bucks less without the windows license somewhere
that would be perfect actually... Haven't thought of that, thanks!
If you don't need to make it a NAS, the used SFF boxes for $80-150 are kickass.
Where are you? What is "locally"? SHS posts links to ebay all the time.
Hi. Building a new house. Ordered sky connect and Intel nuc.
Now looking for these 3 ZigBee devices from Europe market (preferably zha):
- Wall mounted thermostats for floor heating thermoregulators and few for bathroom floor heating (higher amperage)
- Normal wall switches (in-wall mounted)
- Dimerable wall switches (in-wall mounted)
Any recommendations please?
You should define if you want your wall switches to go in-wall (below a classic switch plate) or "stick on remotes". For the latter I like the Ikea ones, for in wall ones I have no experience, because I use Wifi based Shelly in that role.
But if you want to stick a switch somewhere with tape, I think the square Ikea ones are nice&cheap.
Good point. I want in-wall ones, as I wan't to have a manual controll fallback in case of smart system crash or something like that
Then you probably want to have a normal Light switch and put something inside it to control the lights. I quite like the Schneider electric switches (Unica) — they are modular and you can pick and choose 1 vs 2 gang, momentary vs toggle etc.
Just make sure you install deep boxes in the wall so that the Zigbee relays fit in there
But if I turn off light via switch, then that something inside will loose AC power and would be uncontrollable via automation
But how else do you want a fall back in case of crash? You need to have a physical connection if you want to be able to use the system if HA is offline
I don’t think these do anything without the Zigbee coordinator — if HA is off they are powered but cannot communicate
In principle it is possible to associate Zwave devices to communicate directly without the coordinator, so you can have zwave bulbs be turned on be a zwave switch if HA is down, but not with Zigbee
I have similar in my current home. If HA is off they are working fine. They are just click switches
But then they power the bulbs off physically?
Or do you mean they toggle Zigbee bulbs without switching power
“The wall switch needs to be connected to the wire. The most important function is to remotely and intelligently control the power of the connected circuit. To transform the ordinary electric light into a smart light, the wall switch is required; the wireless switch is a controller that can control wall switches and other devices via the app but cannot directly control non-smart lights independently”
I don't need neither "smart light bulb" or remote wall switch. I need in-wall switch preferably clicker (not sensorical), which could be operate from normal world without HA, or could also be toggled from HA.
Those work fine as dumb switches too
The physical switch part doesn't kill power, it toggles the relay, whether HA is up or down.
If you want a "traditional" clicky switch you'll need one of those and a smart "module" to fit between the switch and the light
Something like https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/DLKZMK12LM.html
That’s what I meant: you can either have dumb bulbs with a relay inside the switch (the Aqara wall switch works) or you can have smart bulbs but then the switch is just a remote and does t operate the light circuit
I have the Schneider dumb switches with Fibaro relays behind those which I want to be able to control from HA, but they all look the same in the house
The disadvantage is that you can’t have bulbs which eg adapt colour temperature during the diurnal cycle
I wish Philips still did https://www.lighting.philips.co.uk/consumer/choose-a-bulb/warmglow, or that somebody else picked that up
Probably the right future solution is to have two lines going to each light - one for power and one for control from the switch, a bit like extractor fans are set up. But I doubt there will be a market for this for anyone to do bulbs like this
The WarmGlow stuff works really well, and works with dumb dimmers too, but it was so damn niche - you had to know it existed since they never really pushed it
I wish I had known about this
What about wall mounted thermostats some with lower amperage (for floor heating control) and a few for bathroom floor heating. Any recommendations in EU? Just found out "Bosch Smart Home Room Thermostat II" a bit pricey and I don't understand if they are suitable for bathroom floor heating
The only one I know about is this one:: https://www.z-wave.com/shop-z-wave-smart-home-products/heatit-z-trm3
Looks nice, pitty, that's it's not zigbee
#zigbee-archived has pinned lists of known working hardware
Is the Coral (USB) TPU support by HA OS?
Well, HAOS can't use it, but add-ons can
ah got. so, set the hardware path in Frigate for example.
Yes
lovely... cheers
If you are not planning to use it with the HA Yellow. There are some issues.
good to know. are these documented? I have HA OS installed on a HP EilteDesktop
No, they aren't. But it only effects the Yellow. Your HP should be fine.
i'm looking for a water level sensor that can be mounted outdoors and can withstand freezing temperatures.. it's for measuring the water level in a dam.. the top layer of the water freezes, so we need something that can handle that
You're going to want some kind of industrial grade stuff for that.
no, i got it working now
the trick was to turn this logic around.. when you define vlans you basically tell from where you want to "extract" the vlan tag.. so that had to be done on the lan0.. then i removed wlan0 from bridge0, and actually removed bridge0 altogether.. and placed management on lan0.. then i created a new bridge with lan0.x (where x is tag) and wlan0.. et voila - it worked!
Vlan water sensors?
vlan? or do you mean wlan?
What you just replied with and the question you asked are wildly different
protocol is not important.. i was more looking for something DIY.. but DYI would probably mean wifi.. and esphome
haha!
sorry! i was in the completely wrong channel 😄
but what about a heated pipe that the sensor can be mounted in.. and then some probe sensors inside that pipe?
that would ensure that the water is not frozen inside that tube
pressure sensor? so it's sitting at the bottom?
https://thepihut.com/products/gravity-industrial-stainless-steel-submersible-pressure-level-sensor-0-5m or similar?
This industrial stainless steel submersible pressure level sensor adopts a high-performance pressure sensing chip, with advanced circuit processing and temperature compensation technology. The submersible pressure level sensor receives different pressures at different depths of liquid, which can be converted into corre
(as long as it doesn't get buried in mud)
Would an hvac float switch not work?
With some logic to detect if it just doesn’t move assuming it froze?
Or really just add more than one sensor type
what's an hvac float switch?
Another option would be along the lines of https://wiki.seeedstudio.com/Grove-Water-Level-Sensor/
that would work perfectly for a tank of water, but this is an outdoor dam
You'd need separate ones so that you can get multiple discontinuous readings
yeah, so basically build a long "strip" of those until we have gotten the full range of water
Well, not those, but something else
Do one every X cm
When it freezes you'll likely get the top sensor showing water, plus the ones in the water, and a gap between
The pressure sensor would work too - you'd just need a longer cable 😛
but that would mean that all the circuitry would be in water as well.. that's not very ok, is it?
How deep is it?
@tender aurora When using Discord's Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Use Shift + click on the Reply option, or click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).
gotcha 🙂
Clearly you isolate the electronics from water... that's pretty obvious, no?
A suitable coating or container
Waterproofing electronics is not new... it wasn't new decades ago
yeah, but isolating every 10 cm would be kind of cumbersome. but the exact water level is maybe not so important.. it's more important to detect that the water level doesn't get too low/high
and maybe also something in between
avoiding false positives is, I suspect going to be your biggest problem 😦
yup, we're open for that
Pressure sensor and then multiple "level" sensors
i don't think we can use a pressure sensor, since this is not a tank..
Well one simple way to limit these is make sure it’s below freezing next to the pipe lol
we can't be sure that we won't get mud on the bottom
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mKXkh0i would this fit?
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! €42.28 47%OFF | Tuya Wifi Water Level Controller Sensors Home Water-level Alarm Device 35mm Guide Swimming Flows Detection Level Control System
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005264267764.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&businessType=ProductDetail&spreadType=socialShare
how does that work?
but it looks interesting
ok, so this needs to be mounted on top of the dam.. and then lowered into the water at different levels
so mounted on a pole, basically?
pressure sensor is an option. It's based on atmospheric pressure, and the weight of the water (mostly the latter)
It also has relays for internal pump automations
Working temperature: -10℃ to 50℃
that is more of an issue in some places
though if it's in water, that's less of a problem.
what is more of an issue?
the temperature. -10c isn't very low
i'd say it looks interesting, but the problem is maybe that it's a bit overdesigned.. we don't need the relay part.. but just the sensors and probing looks interesting.. and i'm also worried about the freeze.. it'll probably just freeze the top layer.. as there will be water going out of the dam also during the winter.. so there will be some rotation and movement of the water base
agreed, but we have the option of running heating cables around stuff to keep it warm enough
5-6 meters
I use a toilet float valve in my cistern, that actuates the pump when the level drops 8"
but can you flash it with tasmota?
this is one of the reasons I hate looking at things on Alix
Ships to
Bahamas
This product can't be shipped to your address.
Select another product or address.
🤦♂️
You can with some other effort
it be like that
i just talked to the people responsible for the dam, they say it's all in concrete, so it's a clean pool of water.. so i guess we can probably use this sensor, then..?
but what does this mean: Service Life: 1*10^8 Pressure Circulation (25℃) ?
how long will that last for?
Until Tuesday
no wonder people start relying on chatgpt
100.000.000 pressure circulations means nothing to me
and also.. the water will be much colder than 25 degrees C, so will that prolong or short the service life
It should be rated to handle a specific temperature range, subjecting the device to prolonged periods outside the range it's designed for will shorten its lifespan.
No.
(my sump is not as deep, but..) I just use a pump with a built-in float sensor/activator, then monitor the power usage of the pump.
yeah I have a float switch that fills the cistern from the well if the levels drop too low
cistern is usually filled by rain water but in the event of low rain, the other pump will pull from the well
How important is it to run HA on SSD instead of HDD?
I see the post that RPi 4 with 2GB of RAM should be enought, but you need to use SSD
Very important lol
depending on your psu it might not matter, hdds will need more power
You’re suggesting an OS can live on an hdd?
Why do you hate him?
there are people out there who only want to control a single crap hue bulb
it doesn't matter if you run on hdd or ssd in these cases
Gotta go fast
but what does that mean, then? it only supports below-freezing temperatures?
yeah, i used something like that for a previous project several years ago 🙂
It means, it is working between -20°C and +70°C.
It's not so much "use an SSD" it's "don't use an SD card." SD cards are prone to corruption. SSD will be better than an HDD, but the corruption bit is far less of an issue. (just make sure to use a powered usb hub to run the drive, otherwise it might brown out on the power from the pi)
anyone know how to put an esp32 into boot without the boot button?
#diy-archived would
thank you will ask there
I have an Xiaomi hub plugged into the wall but only use its RGB LED to notify about various stuff. It's WiFi and requires an integration with HA to work obviously so I want to remove it completely if I can replace it with something else. Anyone knows of a Zigbee RBG light that goes directly into a power socket I can use for notifications?
Have anyone a right way to migrate SkyConnect from ZHA. HAos is on a Proxmox VM
It means it's rated for normal operation between -20 and 70 C. Colder than -20 or hotter than 70 will cause problems with accuracy and probably reduce the service life.
More for #zigbee-archived but migrate to what?
Oh sorry. I have an conbee II (zha) and will migrate this to SkyConnect
Then #zigbee-archived can help you
I chose hardware because it is also about the proxmox server running HA. This could also be a problem
ok no problem
Well, if you passed the device through #zigbee-archived can help you
If you didn't then you need to do that
Hello everyone, I hope you are well.
I am writing because I would like to clarify some doubts about the hardware to use. We have a large house and we want to make it "smart" compatible with home assistant, adding door sensors, window sensors, smart light switches and maybe some curtain motors. We tried to see how to do it with the zigbee ecosystem, however we saw that it was a bit expensive, not all devices are compatible and the ones that are compatible are not as cheap as we thought.
I would like to ask if there is any recommended kit or setup for the zigbee ecosystem (apart from the products that can be found at zigbee.blakadder.com) or should I resign myself and opt for wifi devices that are cheaper and connect them to the Home Asssistant.
¡Thank you in advance!
zigbee is a protocol and if you buy a zigbee coordinator you can pair zigbee devices from any manufacturerer (as long as they are supported) and then control them with home assistant
you dont need to buy proprietary hubs or anything even if it says so on the box
you also have the ability to use home assistant as the "brains" and it can take a zigbee light switch and have that control a wifi curtain, or zwave, or whatever.
¡Thank you!
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended this is a good site to confirm which adapter you should get. I am partial to the cc2652p tube PoE coordinators or cc2652p usb dongles
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
as far as which devices to buy and from which manufacturers, that depends on what kind of devices specifically you are looking for
Hello I'm not sure if this is the right channel to ask this. I'm having issues setting up the keyboard remote in Home assistant OS. I'm able to succesfully pair the keyboard using bluetoothctl but it doesn't seem to register any keypresses at all is anyone familiar with this ?
Where are you trying to see the key presses?
I tried running both showkey and evtest. The last one does say operation not permitted I have a feeling that is part of the issue
also another thing is that the device only shows when doing keypresses it shows as /dev/input/event0 and dissappears a few seconds after pressing the key but I'm unable to even change any permissions on it
crazy question - is there a smart tachometer (to use on a spinning attic turbine) i could use?
i want to know if and how fast it's spinning
Which ZigBee light switches are better?
Normal dumb switch+something like z mini
Full standalone in wall ZigBee switch
And I have neutral. Should I search only for those with neutral?
If you have neutral use it. What country are you in?
What's the difference in function between a switch that uses neutral and not
Some non-neutral devices need a minimum load to be able to "fake" a neutral.
Also Zigbee and Z-Wave switches that are no-neutral tend to be end devices
Most no neutral switches also don't support "smart bulb mode", where the physical switch can be decoupled from the relay so whatever the switch controls always stays powered.
Did anyone have luck with Coral AI USB stick and HA yellow board?🙂
Lithuania.
I also found some hybrid ZigBee switches which could work without neutral, but have a neutral port and can work with neutral. Wonder if they switch between end device and router when neutral is missing/present.
And yet another puzzle is three way switches. Ready made in wall ZigBee switches should support that but what about behind dummy switch relays? Do they support various three way switches?
Not that I have heard of
Anyone here have any experience with a Conbee II Zigbee stick that keeps dismounting from a VM, needing is to be reselected once a week or so.
Maybe you could hack a window sensor which is bawically a magnet and count the off/on switches to get revolutions. But i Dont know How many cyfles the batery would last for — Windows get opened once a day so you get a years lifetime
Not to mention that would flood your zigbee network with messages. An ESPHome DIY sensor using the pulse meter component could work. https://esphome.io/components/sensor/pulse_meter.html
i think he is taking the piss lmao
Not sure how that would attach to a fan though
I recently ordered an nRF52840 dongle to use for thread and bluetooth. However i cantr figure out how to use its bluetooth capabilities. can someone help me?
Same way. Magnet and a reed switch. Or if it is too fast for that use a photodiode and a reflector.
Ah. So I need additional hardware. I’m sure I can find a guide out there. Thanks!
I am looking for a way to monitor my dryer. on/off stuff. i have tried the Aqara vibration sensor but it is not sensitive enough even after i turn the sensitivity all the way up. is there a better way to do this? i was able to monitor my washer with a power plug but i dont think that will be an option with the higher voltage...
Realistically if you use a newer dryer, it's not that much power draw either
Unless it's industrial gear, it should be well within a reasonable rating
I had considered adding a temperature sensor to the exhaust of the dryer, since that should SPIKE when it's turned on
I know there are no heat modes, but it'll at least cover the 90% case
Mostly wasn't sure about hooking up a smart plug to 240v/20amp circuit
Well you would buy one rated for 240v/20A
thats a beast of a dryer
Doing a home power monitoring system from the breaker panel would cover it too and avoid the pitfalls of doing it inline
Shelly sells a 240/16 one (plug)
There's also hookups for a gas dryer but that's just terrifying
ah, 'murican dryers
0W
funnily enough its power monitored by a US Sonoff plug repurposed 😄
No idea what it actually peaks at, just know at what everything is rated for upstream
It should be specified either on the device or in the manual
Murcaaaa
YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE HEAT
but anyway, clamp style energy monitoring is perfect for it
Yea at 4kw that seems mandatory
Even speed queen dryers are 4kw, and those are quality units
(ge is generally the cheap stuff)
Muricans haven't discovered how convenient a heat pump dryer is
No vent, no huge power requirements
IT'S VOODOO MAGIC, BURN THE WITCH! -- probable reason why we don't have dryers like that
Hi all, anyone had with any success with any AliExpress EV chargers and HA. Any recommendations? I know there’s OpenEVSE, however with exchange rates and shipping its no cheaper that some chargers here in Australia
anyone know of any smart door locks (not deadbolts) with a handle/knob and keypad for interior doors?
I have a kwickset zwave door handle/keypad/lock, though I'm not sure what model, I have to look it up later
is it zwave or wifi?
and is it a deadbolt ? cuz all the kwikset's I've been seeing are either lever/no zwave or lever/deadbolt only
It's zwave, I have it setup through zwavejs ui, and I think it's supported by the hacs key master integration too, but I haven't tried that
I think it's a zwave deadbolt backing a keypad/handle
So a modkit over another electronic lock
It was installed by the builder though, so it's at least kinda official
lol I need 3 that aren't deadbolts for my office doors
ideally I'd need 4 but I'mma start with 3, as the other door doesn't exist yet (but will soon)
Interior door?
well these 3 are yes
Ah yeah, I missed that, mine is an exterior door lock, so not the right fit, sorry
well that's ok because I forgot to say
relax I already edited the post, smartie
hey is a intel nuc with 4GB memory and 64GB Storage enough for HomeAssistant?
likely unless you go crazy with addons
I've gone me, and 4gb is plenty, but my VM is like 17gb now
17gb storage? i guess
like a smart home with lights smart heating smart plugs led stripes eps´s sensors cameras etc
i ask for a friend
my homeassistant is using 1.7gb and i think the from my friend will have the same amount of addones or so?
with an i3-4010U
well there's one thing there that's gonna need more space, and that's cameras
that's a much better CPU than the one that's hosting the VM for my HA
yea I have already thought
you mean ssd space or memory?
That doesn’t make sense
you mean SSD Storage right?
I mean storage
for saving the camery storage right?
yes, some folks save it to a network share also
ou that is possible nice and how dies it work is the nas then mounted manualy or is there a way in home assistant?
well it depends on what cameras and how you integrate them but typically yes people mount it in HA
Any LED strip recommendations want to put some up behind a shelf, im fine DIY or set up whatever :>
I have 3 Lepro/Lampux/LightingEver (don't know what's up with the names but they are all the same thing). Fairly basic, 1 RGB and 2 RGBW, but never researched if they can/need to be flashed to work with WLED, I just use them as they are
If you don't need to bend them/make corners, I'd go with a waterproof one as they are easier to clean occasionally
i use home built strips, ws2812 led strips + an esp8266 or esp32 running WLED (everything i used is in here: https://lab.rapternet.us/?p=475 )
I was wondering if anyone had some doorbell cam suggestions?
should I use Shelly BETA version? for 3EM Pro
YOLO
Yes yolo
I installed it
Fucking Great
Gave me the opportunity to reverse CT measurements
hmm.. i have a weird problem with tradfri bulbs.. im trying to add 4 gu10 bulbs at once
and they get added.. but sometimes they detect with a configuration tab which allows you to set on level and startup behaviour.. and if that happens, then the default colours are missing the white setting
its a minor thing but its annoying
it means i cant set the group to white
so i guess i either want all of them to have the configuration tab .. or none of them 🤔
well there you go
Hi, can I use a webbrowser on a HA Pi4 on a local display? I would like to use it for a simple display and switch function. So far the display I have is useless...
Please ellaborate a little on your setup.
Are you running a HA on the same RPI? What kind of HA do you use? The HAOS or just a container?
circle is not a good footprint for anything. exept for mug 😄
missing m.2 port if I am correct, or additonal usb.
Doest have POE or even ethernet
I am not sure how does it similar 🙂
Also good for cookies
same radio, same CM4
generally, condensate pumps arent controlled by the thermostat, right? seems like mine stopped working at some point after switching to ecobee thermostat (a few weeks ago) but im not sure if thats just a coincidence or if the ecobee isnt doing something.
They are typically controlled by a float switch
that would be external though, right?
as in, external from the furnace
i dont see where a float switch would be.
that yellow wire goes into the furnace, it seems.
It could be internal
In that red container
This needs to be fixed asap dude
Yeah you need to call your HVAC guy
yeah i am doing so right now, matter of fact
i switched back to original thermostat just to be sure it wasnt ecobee missing something
it still isnt running
thermostats usually have 0 control over external pumps
and 85% of the units here don't even have pumps
The float switch would be installed in the plugged spot where the red twist thing is screwed in next to the drain pipe
But I think they’re built into those pumps too
mostly they are built into the pumps
because those pumps can live very far away from the units
is it the Diversitech CP-22 ?
wait I zoomed it
it is a CP-22 but looks like a clone
they have a float that shrivels up in it apparently
thanks everyone. maintenance got here and he does need to fix the pipe itself. the pump seems to work fine when he pulled the pvc back it triggered the pump to run.
well that's weird, but I guess entirely possible
i just am cynical. the place told me i am "responsible for any damage caused by replacing the thermostat" and even though i expected that it was completely unrelated, i expect to be blamed. make sense?
well a physical pipe issue could hardly be caused by replacing a Tstat
but I see your point
absolutely 100% but you know how companies can be
yes that's like me, save money on mechanic work by doing it myself, but not having time to do it, so still have no car
lol
at least now I know I gotta rebuild my motor
so gotta pull the engine and set it up in the dining room
😂
yup just tightened the pipe and tested the pump, all is well
no damage no mold
not caused by thermostat obv
yay
Cool
yeah that pumps only interaction would be to shut it off in case of a flood
other than its job is to pump water
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKDvrci
Will this be suitable for picking up 433mhz from devices like this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPO7neI
Sounds good, will that pick up anything on the 433mhz frequency? Like that weather station I linked?
If you look at the specs for any SDR dongle, it will tell you what range of frequencies it supports. Any of the hardware listed on that page will both support your frequency and work with the rtl_433 software that you'll use to actually interpret the signals.
You'll also want to be sure the weather station you're looking at is one that's supported by rtl_433.
Ah ok, makes sense, thanks!
Recommendations for a smart switch? I intend to use it as a master on/off for all the things when I leave and come back. I am in the US. Only have wifi set up right now.
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
TBH it sounds more like a remote you're after, not an actual switch since you're not going to be controlling power
I intend for the switch will toggle power on/off to lights, speakers, fans, and other stuff like that.
Some of the devices will be DC (this is in an RV).
Well, HA will do that, unless you're planning on wiring the switch to those
And no switch will do both AC and DC
I do want HA to handle the switching. I think you are saying I need two things: a remote and smart switches to toggle based on the remote.
Yes
Smart switches for each thing you want to control power to (or smart modules), and then a button for HA
So I will start by installing a button (DC-powered, ideally 12V) and one 12V smart switch.
Bluetooth may work for the button
I'm normally a Zigbee fan, and this may make sense here since it's generally lower power draw than WiFi
Idk he’s in an RV so mains power probably isn’t best over some 12v options
There's DC Zigbee options, just not as many as mains
so.. these are my button options and to find the 12V ones I need to look them one by one.
There's also stuff that's not a button, Zigbee and Bluetooth "buttons" may not be button entities
Yeah... I am going through the list and taking notes... so far none of them are physical buttons
Sheet1
name,ln,power src,notes
atlantic cozytouch,https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/cozytouch/,NA,this is an app. not physical button
august,https://www.home-...
but the integrations under "remotes" don't seem like what I am looking for either; I see a lot of talk about IR
Maybe there is a better place to find hardware organized by physical form factor.
Sadly no, not really
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/WXKG03LM_rev1.html is a "remote" rather than a switch, but it's a switch form factor
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/WXKG12LM.html is a button form factor, but not called that
Hi all, I am struggling to get a LD2410B sensor hooked up to my D1 mini v4 with UART. I am able to read all the data through the app via bluetooth. But the data pulling into HA through ESPHome all says unknown. And ESP local web server that it hosts all reads the states as NA / Off. I have tried a bunch of different recommended fixes here: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/ld2410-esphome-tips/477058/285, but nothing has worked. I added a couple images of what I have going on. Any advice is appreciated!
Are there any Smart Power Strips similar to function/price as the kasa HS300 but in black? It seems most of the smart strips are white or only have 3 plugs :/
Found this wifi version, don't know anything about it: https://www.amazon.com/Protector-POWSAV-Outlets-Always-Extension/dp/B0B5G6MDQ6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1CYWY8OLR2MEF&keywords=POWSAV%2B6%2BFt%2BWiFi%2BExtension%2BCord&qid=1691806624&sprefix=powsav%2B6%2Bft%2Bwifi%2Bextension%2Bcord%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-3&th=1
I looked at that one earlier, it doesn't seem to have energy monitoring 🥹
Wifi/Zigbee/Z-Wave are all okay too if you have any recs
Mine peaks at 1200W
it’s an old Maytag
Sorry, 3,000W
I use a Sense breaker install to read that
Need some advice on a dumb dehumidifier, not looking for anything too expensive but googling for one that can guarantee powering on when the power switch is turned on hasn't turned up with much. Anyone know a make/model dehumifier that powers back on when a smart plug is switched on?
I have an Xiaomi hub plugged into the wall but only use its RGB LED to notify about various stuff. It's WiFi and requires an integration with HA to work obviously so I want to remove it completely if I can replace it with something else. Anyone knows of a Zigbee RBG light that goes directly into a power socket I can use for notifications?
you could always use this style bulb in a cheap night light https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-Required-SmartThings-Control-Candelabra/dp/B08NXGGRYD
Sengled smart bulb works directly with Alexa and Google home to manage your light bulb through voice control. You’ll be able to turn on appliances across the room as your hands are busy with cooking, or shut the bedroom light off without getting up. You can easily adjust the brightness and color ...
Was hoping for something cooler 🙂
you only gave the required use, not the cool factor
any recommendations for a zigbee hardware button similar to the hue dimmer switch? (wireless, no proprietary hub)
quack: perhaps this? https://www.amazon.com/THIRDREALITY-Multi-Function-Illumination-Adjustable-Brightness/dp/B0C9LNXYLL
Is there a place to look for hardware suggestions for India?
perhaps https://templates.blakadder.com/in.html might help
Configure your smart to work with Tasmota open source firmware.
Maybe a LED controller with a small RGB strip?
The main problem with that is that dehumidifiers have refrigerant coils and compressors in them like air conditioners do, and powering them off and on by cutting power is probably going to significantly reduce the service life.
Hello
I'm setting up a smart system for my company and plan to buy multiple access control devices. I want to control them all using Home Assistant or a similar open-source solution. Can Home Assistant handle this?
Yeah, that's more in the line I was thinking. Availability looks like an issue though.
I have a Maeco 20 l model. https://www.meaco.com/products/meaco-20l-low-energy-dehumidifier-and-air-purifier
Pulls around 300 W. You can set the target humidity, although it’s Not Very accurate. I had it connected to a smart plug and a hygrometer for a while after we got flooded by rhe neighbour and it worked pretty well
Hi, does anyone have any recommendations for UK smart sockets that work seemlessly with HA? I've got one of these but it's an absolute bastard to setup and would rather find something that is more "native" https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VC1GWV9?noLL=1&askMessage=USER_PURCHASE_REQUIRED#Ask
Thanks!
The socket I've got looks a lot like this one: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/AU-A1ZBDSS.html
Integrate your Aurora Lighting AU-A1ZBDSS via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
I wonder if its just a rebrand or something?
Do RGB light bulbs that can be dimmed from a z-wave dimmer exist? I would like to control brightness from the wall/HA like normal but also control color from HA.
The dimmer being z-wave I guess is irrelevant but it's a Fibaro Dimmer 2.
Yes, Pi4 is running HAOS. I would like to display some solar power data and with a touch switch stuff on and off. Since my Pi4 has a 4,3" display, I would like to use it. Therefore I would need a browser on the HAOS. Best seamless...
Yea, they just came out with the BL706 (Thread) & BL602 (wifi) versions. So, zigbee might be low on the list to produce
Can anyone help me with 2 zooz switch problems that are causing me grief.
-
I have a zen71 switch, rated for fans upto 3a, for my bathroom exhaust fan. It is the only thing on the switch. It's a nutone .3a fan, one third. When I turn the breaker on the fan works. Turn the fan off it may go on off a few times but inevitably stops turning on. The blue light is on the switch, in HA toggling does nothing.
-
I have a zen 77? Dimmer switch for my bathroom vanity. I have 2 of these, there's 2 vanities. Right works fine. Left won't turn off, when I installed it last week it worked fine for several days, then 2 days ago it won't turn off unless I pull the little air gap tag out. I pulled all of these switches out and confirmed there's no loose wires. I assume because they worked fine for days that the wiring is not the issue but really I'm at a loss now.
I recently inherited a few Tuya zigbee led controllers -- 6-pin RGB+CCT with a female 6-pin 14(?) mm socket -- looks like this https://www.houseiq.pl/environment/cache/images/500_500_productGfx_10254.jpg.
I am trying to connect it to a LED strip. The strip just has wires hanging off the connector end and i need to put them in some male 6-pin connector. I don't mind soldering them etc, but for the life of me I cannot find what these connectors are called. All I see are clips that connect LED strips to each other, not the other way.
Could anyone point me to a link of what I need to get? Thanks!
Sounds like either you got defective hardware or wired something wrong. I'd probably just start by asking Zooz for an RMA, assuming the devices are somewhat new. Or they'll help you debug the hardware.
@fringe crater so I found this online
I recently purchased two ON|OFF Switch 800 ZEN71 | 800LR switches for my two bathrooms' exhaust fans. Each switch powers a single NuTone 695-R02 B Unit 11/120V 60Hz 1.2 Amps 70CFM 6.0 Sones fan. However, after installing both switches and toggling them on and off a few times, I noticed that the switches stopped turning on the fans. Although the ...
I think that's one of my issues
I failed , flume sensor was not compatible with my water meter
Any other idea what I can use
I’ve ordered a second hand Dell OptiPlex 3080, does anyone know if there’s anything I can check when it arrives to see how many hours its been run or anything like that?
You can get the SMART data from the drive, as a hint
Has anyone got a good watering system in place? I have HA running on Raspberry Pi4 and a ZigBee dongle attached. I'm wanting to get a Smart Water valve and a moisture sensor for my planter box (already got a regular digital timer on the sparkler system). I've been looking at the Rain Seer ZigBee controllers (Yellow) on AliExpress which look like will connect though Zigbee2MQTT, but now looking for a reliable moisture sensor which will connect easily to HA via either BT or ZigBee. I was looking at the Xiaomi Mi Flora sensors but can't seem to find whether they work with HA directly through ZigBee or BT. Anyone have a solution?
They work through BT
There's a Zigbee soil sensor from Tuya with mixed reviews, some say it's not accurate, some say it eats batteries and mine is working just fine
hey guys, quick question for people who have a sensibo - if you have it installed next to your air con, can you use your dumb air con remote to change the settings on the air remote and have the new status sync to HA?
Yes yes yes -- thank you!
Hey there,
Can you recommend me a good "nervous system" for my HA setup 😄
I am doing my own wiring, and whole electricty, so this stage I can adapt every option.
I would like to measure and toggle every 230V outlet/devie. And I would like to use momentary switches for input.
Zigbee?
Smart sockets, smart switches
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#s=socket has various 230V options
I would prefere some din rail solution. Like install them after the breaker. And use ethernet.
Then you should have said that
Tink your mind reader on the fritz again ?
I know Shelly makes some din rail stuff but it's going to be WiFi.
Oh no the pro line do use Ethernet
We are having a family room added to our house, and I want to make sure shelly is best option
thinking about a dimmer2 or wall dimmer, a Shelly Plus 2pm, and an Shelly Plus i4
I have a mix of qubino and shelly now
my wife likes the regular paddle switches as the interface
Sounds like you've already made up your mind
well the problem is
I never know what new thing might be out there
I'm fine with shelly stuff
but I'm fine with something else too
regardless what route you go, if your wife want's the paddle switches, then you're stuck with the "behind the outlet" stuff
yeah, that seems immutable
the qubinos are zwave
Hi, I am looking for some advice for a new user. At the spur of the moment I bought an IKEA Vindstyrka yesterday, which apparently is a Zigbee device. Right now, I am running Home Assistant as a VM image, but I wanted to installed it on my Synology NAS, but no luck there. So I am looking for a device that can both
- Allow Vindstyrka to connect to HA
- Run a Home Assistant server 24/7.
but the shelly improved a bit, since the 2pm can do two switches
#zigbee-archived can help wth (1), and probably allow you to keep running on the VM or NAS
many have double dimmers
Many devices such as my Denon AVR shows up automatically in HA interface, but not the Vindstyrka, so I guess I need some kind of Zigbee device
That's why we have the #zigbee-archived channel 😛
cheers!
I'll check fibaros site, I did not know they had such
lol
zooz has a double relay
okay, maybe thats a point for shelly as well
but I'm still gonna research em
all this is great info
thanks!
good afternoon, can anyone help me, my sonoff zigbee 3.0 usb dougle plus device is not recognized in the homeassistant
how do i solve this problem?
I like Shellies behind my wall switches because you can flash ESPHome to them and then you can toggle the relay as a fallback in case there is no connection with HA. In all other cases I let it send events to HA and do actions based on that
I think I need Shellies to replace my current 3 way switch in the hallway
is it good for what?
Not a good toaster
It's terrible
buck converter??
Ahhhaamm... 😁😁😁
Anyone feel like the price of the Aqara/Xiaomi sensors has been creeping up and up lately? I just want some additional illuminance sensors and they're starting to approach the price of Hue motion sensors that also provide illuminance.
I could easily make this a toaster
Inflation buddy
Hi everyone, I am moving into a new home and that has down lights. I already use Hue GU10 bulbs and wont need to replace these. I am looking to have one accent light but unfortunately, the light I want has integreated LEDS.
My plan is to add a relay to the top of the bulb to eliminate the need to add another switch. Does any one have any reccomendations if that is a good way to go and what would just work with a hue system! Thank you in advance
I just played an amazing game called "how many relays and Wagos will it take to make this device function the way I want it to"? 🙂
#cablegore
srsly
It'll look better once it's in the wall. It's POC'd at the moment with a 120V suicide cable (chopped and stripped NEMA power supply) and a bunch of random 14 gauge wires
TL;DR: LED-lit medicine cabinet with two separate lights on the top and bottom that are both controlled by one external wall switch that uses 0-10V dimming wires, but there's a separate (physical only) switch too, inside the cabinet, that is used to turn on/off the main (top) LED bar. I wanted to be able to control it all from a single Decora switch and create scenes that involved one or both lights at varying brightnesses. Never take no for an answer 🙂
Maybe, maybe not. I mean, the bottom/back light is meant to be used as a night light. So it's perfect for automations with either sundown or light sensors. But not if it's also tied to a bright AF vanity light.
Unless you physically open the cabinet and turn it off
the concept is nice, I look forward to seeing the wires cleaned up because right now it's giving me a headache
and that's only because I'm a cable snob
I promise I will follow up in a week or two once it's recessed in the wall and run with proper cables.
I just wanted to make sure I could get the use cases covered and working with these two relays without killing myself or breaking the fixture. Hooray for multimeters.
i always want to know how people manage to hide cables, i end up with either cables everywhere, or so much wall gore the WAF drops to zero
Steve I have never once had a WAF issue. my wiring is sound, and clean. However I also do not have a wife.
I installed cable trays in my attic as well, and no wife goes in the attic
is your house two stories? just curious how you run between them if you do
although for a WLED crown moulding setup in the upstairs like i kinda want to do one day, attic wiring is a good idea...... now how will it handle 120F
my house is not two stories, but typically I'd use somewhere as a riser
well you don't have to put the low voltage stuff up there if you have a closet near your molding like I do 😉
im closing in the top of the closet to run some wires thru to my actual wiring closet
crafty hiding then
0-10v sucks. My entire office has it in first floor. Also at least you are using Wago connectors and not cheap knockoffs
The only way WAF is not relevant
yeah GAF turns into IDGAF real quick these days
I currently have 3 ethernet cables running across my office, why do you ask, when I have 8 ports under the bench and 2 more to the side? because I can
actually, being 100% truthful, it's because I need to move 2 of the ports from one patch panel to the other and I don't want to even open my attic
I have a bunch of rewiring to do, but I have it all planned out... for October
I finally terminated cat6a that has been run for 3 years. Cable was in the attic. Got three U6-LR now. I need to get the unifi poe that can take poe++ and output poe, but I'll give it another three years.
by then it will be outdated
kidding
I've installed cat6A that people STILL aren't using properly 4 years later
I also hate to terminate cat7 and would prefer just to run fiber at that point anyway
It was actually cat7. Which is why I never did it for 3 years. Lolllll
There was no replacing it. It was ran with alot of work.
I debated buying a coax to ethernet adapter instead. But that was too lazy even for me
Hey, all good, all termated. Poe and 10gb on every floor.
noice.
I just do 10G on my router fiber to my switch
which is hilarious considering my internet is delivered by pigeons
My internet provider only terminates 5g as rj45
So I have an ethernet to sfp+
so bass-ackwards
On my unifi. But it's 150 a month for 5g symmetrical
lmfao
So I only can complain so much
Buying the sfp + adapter was a sacrifice I was willing to make
bro I would have taught them to run fiber
They do
I'd have just run the fiber to their box and been like "haaaaay"
But it's all weird, and propertiary
"plug this in, I love you long time"
I have fiber run from my closet to my property boundary WAITING on the day they deliver fiber to my area
I still have a couple hundred feet on the spool too 'in case'
I have a couple hundred feet of cat7 lying around
I have a Long driveway
I want to wire poe all the way to mailbox
that's called solar sir