#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 20 of 1
@civic token I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
that's some of it. I'm googling various things now but would appreciate any input from anyone who knows anything about this. Intel NUC. Frustrated.
Hi everyone does the Sonoff ZB mini - L work with non dimmable loads?
@civic token did you look at the NUC bios settings at all?
Yes. Updated the bios as well. No USB or power related settings seem relevant. I turned on (paraphrasing) "power to USB while in s4/s5" just in case, as that was the most relevant.
these are plugged directly into the nuc, so any hub is internal, correct?
what else do you have plugged in, is the cp210x an ESP32 device you have plugged in, and is that causing an issue?
which nuc? you could potentially track down the block diagram and at least isolate ports to see which hub is causing the issues.
Yes. Any hubs are internal. Cp210x could be either the HUSBZB-1 Zwave/ZigBee stick (as some googling indicates that that's the type of driver used) or my Wyze Sense (as some googling indicates that that's the driver for the kind of thing that flashes it with custom firmware). I've unplugged the Wyze Sense entirely just to see if the error still happens overnight. If yes , then I'll remove the Zwave/ZigBee stick. I'm going to try slowly narrow it down to a specific device, or the USB/NUC itself.
4th gen NUC. Good thinking on a block diagram; I'll try moving both things to one internal hub or the other to see if that does anything.
Is it plugged into a USB 3 port? Can you try a 2 Port? Can you try if it happens when you use a powered USB hub or if only one device is plugged in?
Also check the other logs
Run journalctl -o short-full -k then journalctl -x --since '2023-03-10 06:45:00' --until '2023-03-10 06:50:00' or whatever the time was from the output.
I'm no expert with journalctl so there's likely to be more needed flags but this might get you started.
I looked for pretty much each line from your dmesg but there's nothing specific to be found. Everything can have multiple reasons. From drivers to defective hardware.
because this locks are not compatible with german doors 🙂
Ahh yes, I’m in the US, I know there are much less options for euro locks.
I'm working my way through different USB configs. Had ONLY the HUSBZB-1 plugged in yesterday and it died (lights went off) after less than an hour. Plugged in a dell mouse into the same slot instead and left it on overnight, no USB issues so far. I'll give it a full 24 hours, then will plug the Wyze Sense into the same spot, and give that 24 hours. If It seems like an HUSBZB-1 issue, I'll try a few different ports (including ones that are on other internal USB hubs). If that still breaks, I guess I'll buy a Zooz 700 series and a sonoff p whatever to get zwave and zigbee back. I'll run the journal command later; Working today, thus the semi-passive troubleshooting approach.
I really appreciate your help, btw, thank you.
Hello, I am currently using an zigbee and homematic stick as well as a coral usb stick. To make my raspberry pi agony case work I had to use i2c configuration. I used that addon. Now the zigbee, als well as the Homematic stick and coral stick won’t be recognized anymore. Is there a solution to fix this?
is there tasmota or mqtt compattible smart plugs with a ethernet port since are wifi is not stable so wifi is really not a option
Probably best to fix that WiFi then
there is no budget to fix it
we would have to replace all the switches at the place to solve it and the place i volunteer at has no money to fix the wifi issue
so we have to find ethernet smart plugs
You might have to build those, I've never seen one
You can get esp32s with ethernet and throw an optioelectric relay on it
Just need something to step down the line voltage to power the esp
But you'd be better off just getting #zigbee-archived plugs and letting them build a very robust mesh network instead
If you pick the right channel it won't even interfere with wifi either
Usually WiFi interferes with Zigbee, not the other way around
True, but you can still go for channel 25 and avoid it
I'm trying to picture the hot mess of having ethernet corded smart switches lol
At that point you could just run a smart switch on an extension cord to where it got good signal lol
If I was starting over today with smart home I think it would be like 80%+ zigbee gear
I can't connect to my aquara motion sensor, I connect to it once but after that it freezes
oops i should probably give you my config?
Are you using ZHA, Zigbee2MQTT, deCONZ, or the Aqara hub?
Well... you should be in the right channel, which this isn't 😉
Then you want to be over in #zigbee-archived
There's a channel for #yellow-archived if you have questions about it.
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
If you have problems with the Blue or your installation see #installation-archived.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://www.codepile.net/ or https://paste.debian.net/ to share code or logs
okay thanks
so idk what’s going on with my HA, but I’m currently running Scrypted, Pterodactly with wings and servers off. and 11 addons.
my cpu is over 150 degrees Fahrenheit which is not normal. I have 0 idea how to fix this.
Cpu is a Intel Core i7 5500U.
your cpu fan isn't running
or your heatsink isn't properly attached to your CPU. but that's not a terrible temperature if your system is under load. Is it?
150F is 65C
if Scrypted is doing any transcoding or object detection (???) it might eb using lots of CPU. Is that on the same box?
probably be closer to the ~45c-50c on idle, but as lyricnz says, any workload is going to spike rapidly
Wow, went to look at my HA box, and it's maxing out one core at the moment. SOmething very broken.
supervisor has gone crazy
my HA vm is running <3% cpu of the 2 cores i gave it
Yeah, I did the latest HA update, and restarted supervisor, and it seems to be fine now. Mine runs about 2.4% normally
my CPU is at 42C (107F)
150F/65C isn't even at "high" warning for sensors there
root@pve2:~# sensors
coretemp-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
Package id 0: +42.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 0: +41.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 1: +41.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 2: +40.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 3: +40.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
oh that's the host
🤦 just spent a minute trying to figure out how to check cpu temp from the haos vm....
root@prox:~# sensors
coretemp-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
Package id 0: +49.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 0: +45.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 1: +46.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 2: +45.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
Core 3: +45.0°C (high = +84.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)
ambient is 24c (~75f)
these are both i5-6500 systems if i remember lyric's
usually under heavy workload it’s under 100F can tell u that. Scrypted is on the same machine, only have 1 motion detection for one camera and the rest which is ring everything is default and motion settings is off because of the battery issue. So I doubt it’s that.
Well it’s been over 100 on idle.. not during workload.
I’m worried that my cpu is going to die under this temperature.
My usage runs about 12% which is normal considering the things I’m running. but the temperature isn’t making sense.
hmm I’m currently not home but when I do I’ll see if it is running. Since it’s over 100 degrees, that fan should be blaring.
hey guys, i'm looking for something to control my split system air con that be controlled through HA and by using the normal dumb remote
i know sensibo can do it, but i was hoping for a local option - broadlink is close, but it doesn't sync when the air con is controlled through the dumb remote, which is something we'd like to have
is there maybe some kind of IR sensor i could put near the AC and whenever the dumb remote sends it a signal it updates HA, and i can use that in combination with the broadlink ones? or is there a better combined option
what is your mini split model, specifically indoor units
alot of them allow you to put a usb stick in them to add wifi functionality
it's a MHI 7kw system - the only issue is that i'm in a place that doesn't let me work on my own electrical stuff, so can't do anything that would touch wiring
wait sorry, you said a usb - i haven't heard of using that, but that would be much easier!
sorry, it's been a long day 😛
on my unit adding wifi and smart functionality requires you to open up the indoor unit where you clean your filters and its just there behind a cover
awesome, that would be easy enough
i had a look at the manufacturer's website and found a wifi adaptor that they make that's compatible, but it's more expensive than a sensibo
oh hang on, that's for a different model of air con - my one isn't compatible with the wifi adaptor they sell 😦
might have to stick to the sensibo/broadlink options then
just a sanity check, you understand that all those references to cpu temps are in Celsius, right, so 100F is only 38c, which is pretty normal. my idle temp is 45c (113f). this is "cool" for a cpu, 60c is an under load, 80c is prolonged load with mediocre cooling (or bad cooling under load).
Any modern CPU will shutdown automatically at 90-100c. "Over 100" will fry most of them effectively
well uh- I wasn’t introduced to Celsius so when home assistant showed me farenheit I was like nice. I’m trying to slowly understand Celsius with this, but when HA told me it was over 100f that’s when I was getting worried. because I build PC’s and normally anything over 100F isn’t good.
i'll keep it in mind, but it would only work for one - the other air con we have is a different brand and they don't offer anything wifi related, so not sure if anything like that would work, but i'll keep it in mind
100f is perfectly fine
my desktop is a ryzen 9-5900, it's idle around 40c, playing games is around 60-64c
Okay good. stressing out for nothing lol
100f is "cold" depending on your ambient temps
ah I see. when I do get home, I am actually swapping out the hardware for a little nas Server im building. so literally am stressing for nothing.
do you think it’d be better to run everything on separate vms? so Scrypted on one vm, home assistant in another, and so on and so forth?
no idea, the VM's are to allow you ease of management/upgrade/swap/etc. I'm running VM's because I wanted to run some other tools on the same box and I knew HA wasn't going to use all the power. I'm also quite familiar with proxmox, etc, so it wasn't "work". If you are doing this to learn, try it all and expect it to fail, and be happy when it doesn't, or learn how to fix it when it does for hobby or education.
Right- I’m mainly doing this for management because of homeassistants outside unsupported docker thingy, and mainly for the hardware change.
having everything in one os has been a struggle so I think in my case it’d be better.
Does anyone have idea on how switchbot bot can handle humid (shower/toilet) atmosphere? Currently i have 1 room that is not automated and landlord doesn't allow to modify any electical stuff directly and i'd love to automate shower lights (yes i could diy IPxx box and 3d print arm etc. But i guess my GF wants it to look somewhat aesthetic 😂). Obviously the bot wouldn't be under direct waterspray but more or less water steam due hot showers in the room
Hello, does anyone here know if there's something like the Shelly Plug S but for USB ports? I have a few Shelly Plug S for automating lights and I really like them for not depending on any external cloud service. Now I'd like something similar for controlling a USB powered LED strip that sits on the back of my Sony TV (like a ghetto ambilight 😄). What I want to accomplish is to have the LED strip light up when I turn on the TV. The TV always outputs power on the port even when idle so at the moment I have to turn it on/off by hand.
Not that I'd recommend them post ESP8266 but the Gosund SP112 have switchable USB ports
I'd probably just look for something like a wled controller. Then you can do dimming, etc.
is it just a dumb strip of white leds with no control?
There are colored LEDs and a remote for turning it on/off and select color.
if it was mine I'd cut all that out and replace it with wled, if you want to automate
Hello. Has someone examples for Eltako EnOcean Devices?
https://cloudfree.shop/product/sinilink-usb-switch-flashed-with-tasmota/ might work for you
I have HA running in a VM that can migrate between physical machines and in each physical machine I have a skyconnect usb device. I see the device in /dev/ttyUSB0 and I've setup ZHA using that path, but when I migrate the machine I get a connection error and instead of using the /dev/ttyUSB0 path, it is using the /dev/serial/by-id path which differs between machines and I'm not sure how to resolve this
FileNotFoundError: [Errno 2] No such file or directory: '/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Nabu_Casa_SkyConnect_v1.0_e041c8eadc8cec1187496ce883c5466d-if00-port0'
in normal circumstances it makes sense to use the by-id path, but in this case I need to use the /dev/ttyUSB0 path and even though I am inputting this in manually, it shows "Error setting up entry /dev/ttyUSB0 for zha" because it is actually trying to use the by-id path
I don't know where this is stored and if I can just change that
Why are you migrating HA between various machines?
in the event a host goes down or I need to take it down for maintenance
It feels like the problem you need to solve is "HA should stay on one machine and not hop around between them" rather than "the VM doesn't use the non-specific device path for a USB device"
that's not the problem I need to solve
Well the longest "unexplained" downtime I've had with my HA in the last 3 years was 45 minutes a while ago when I accidentally unplugged the machine whilst rearranging cables.
If you're concerned about problems on the machine, give HA a dedicated machine with a UPS backup.
if there is truly no way around this then I may have to do that
but this setup should work
alright so I was able to reconfigure ZHA to use /dev/ttyUSB0 by updating .storage/core.config_entries, now after migration the new coordinator does connect but I'm unable to control devices through it so there seems to be more involved
sounds like the IDing is software so moving to a different USB stick should be transparent assuming HA can connect to it, which it now can
Im running home assistant os on a raspberry pi 4 and i keep getting low voltage and RPI Power status keeped getting detected. Im using the original power supply that came with the pi 4
I am surching for a four scene switch buton fully compatible with ha. i was about to buy the one on the video https://youtu.be/B-AKnFAVzsY but it seem's not to work well.... Any good product? Thank you.
I have a simple setup to start with, buying a smart plug to control a sound machine for my kids' room, and then being able to say to my iphone "hey siri turn <on|off> the sound machine". I have Home Assistant set up on a Pi and am a tech person but trying to understand how to get this to work is an overwhelming amount of information and I can't find any simple "buy this, buy this, do this" kind of thing. No budget, I'd rather things work, and be expandable, and beyond Siri and my phone I don't care about HomeKit. Any suggestions for a smart plug and whatever else?
Go with #zigbee-archived
Pick from ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT depending on whether you want it part of HA (ZHA) or separate (Zigbee2MQTT)
Then pick a Zigbee stick (coordinator) they support
Next you need to pick a supported Zigbee plug - your choices depend on the country you're in, but Innr are generally a good choice
For Siri you'll need to set up https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit/
does anyone uses a smartplug to power on the pc? (cable connected from power supply of Tower PC to smartplug) I set the BIOS Settings to; if power, the power up ... yeah in the last months I had like 2 weird instant shutdowns. Today I wanted to change stuff behind my desk and turns out:
Ah cannot send pictures
Smart Plug melted
Please use imgur or other image sharing web sites, and share the link here.
Image posting is blocked in most channels to discourage people from sharing text as images. Sharing text as images assumes that everybody sees the world as you do, which isn't the case. Some people are colour blind, or have visual impairment that means they can't make sense of an image of text.
and one hole in my distributer
What smart plug was it?
shelly smart plug s
Get a PoE zigbee coordinator.
And I just set up z-wave js ui on an old rpi 3b. So both my zigbee and zwave networks are decoupled from home assistant machine/requiring USB on it.
Then I migrated home assistant from a pi4 to a VM, and all my zigbee and zwave stuff still just worked.
thats my plan right now 😄
what do u use as hypervisor?
I use ubuntu 22.04 as kvm host
I'm using proxmox right now
So... Whatever OS it's based on, dunno
debian I think?
Really easy script here to set up HaOS VM
https://tteck.github.io/Proxmox/
proxmox was tooo overhead for me as single 😄
I'm running HaOS in a VM on this box... Frigate (with portainer management for docker) in an LXC container, nginx proxy manager and unifi controller in LXC containers
Working pretty well.
I like that idea
what integration(s) are you using in HA to talk to your remote coordinator ?
you have this device plugged into an rpi or where does the rpi sit?
This device is just plugged into the network. Power and network over the one cable, that's all
rpi is just for zwave.
gotcha
I like the idea of using one of my rpis, that way I can use the same sky connect usb which supports zigbee and thread
Yeah. Not sure how ZHA would communicate with a remote server like that but I'm sure it can be done.
yeah might have to use zigbee2mqtt
looks like that tubeszb device is just using a serial to ethernet bridge so that should be simple enough
Yeah I probably could have just used my pi for both
yup this seems to work
still a single point of failure, but thread/matter will fix that eventually
I recently bought some SONOFF ZBMINI ZigBee Smart Switch's. I for the life of me can't fit them into my single gang deep electrical boxes. I can likely make it work if I cut the wires shorter, but dang it's tight. Have others experienced this? I have a triple gang box that I was going to put three ZBMINI in, there's just no way to make three of them fit.
Sorry I think #the-water-cooler might be better for this.
Anyone here with Z-Stick 7 from Aeotec@
That thing has a ridiculously low range for its ridiculously low size...
Wondering if it's just me or the thing is a waste
I hope you have it on a USB extension cable and ideally on a usb2 port?
Hola. I purchased the Aqara FP1 last August for presence detection and it's worked 99% flawlessly. I think I'm ready to pick up a second one, but I was wondering if anybody could recommend an alternative? Is there something better at this point in time? Not sure if I'm ready to build my own with ESP. unless that's the no brainier move. Thanks guys.
If you are running wires why not run a proper presence/motion sensor like Paradox sensors for example? They can exclude animals and so on.
Tie them into a cheap board from Paradox and off you go.
Yes I'm not opposed, I just simply do not know what's out there. I'm ignorant to the hardware available. If someone could shed some knowledge.
Used to run all kinds of motion/contact sensors, wireless, USB you name it.
At the end put in wired sensors in the whole house, every door, room, window.
Wasn't cheap or easy but now I'm 100% sure if there is a motion or something is open.
No worries about batteries, no worries about people jamming signals.
Btw, Xiaomi have great motion sensors in their Mijia line:
Still, the more motion there is the more frequent the battery drains.
Are there energy meters that can be built into wall sockets, like the shelly switches, etc? So instead of using a plug? And if so, what should I be looking for, as I'm having trouble getting the right words to Google 😄
power monitoring relay module
For the wall boxes? Those I only find as Din rail units
power monitoring in-wall module then
$hw
I installed HA on Ubuntu 22.04 on an old AMD / PC with 12GB RAM and 1TB SSD. Is there a good reason to use a VM or Docker?
Looking for recommendations for an air quality sensor. Particularly that includes carbon dioxide levels
Hi everyone. I wanted to ask if the Shelly 1 addon with esphome is capable of reading custom input instead of the temperature probes.
You want to ask the folks in the ESPHome Discord, or #diy-archived here
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
I am tired of fighting with Withings and their API, are there any sensible off the shelf alternatives that work well with HA for a bed occupancy sensor?
the best i've seen is diy with esphome or zigbee and various pressure sensors
mark watt has a decent video on some options
thanks @cold moon, have been loosely trying to avoid the #diy-archived route for this out of being lazy but I suppose there's nothing stopping me from building my own at this point 🙂
the diy route is pretty decent for this tho
im not aware of any non-diy chair/bed sensors just off the shelf
annoyed that I spent $100 on the withings bed sensor and the api shit for it is garbage on the withings end
fails silently and the portal won't tell you where it's choking, etc
better to just stick to esphome or zigbee like shown in the video imo
and then it decides to start working after I give up on it after the last week of it breaking and ask in here, typical
With an esp32 and a couple “security mats” off Amazon you can diy a bed sensor without much effort.
Im putting a Fire Tablet on my wall to display a control panel. I'd like to set it to charge the tablet when it is low on power, so as to save the battery some. What I'd like to do is add an in wall USB charging port that can be controlled, and not require a cloud account. Most of what I see on Amazon requires conenction to a foreign country to operate, and I;d like this to work without internet (i'm rural and internet is secondary). Anyone have any ideas? I'm currently Zwave, but I could add a zigbee radio if that's my option.
Or am I going overkill. I see these outlets with intellichip, which says it turns off USB power when the device is charged... maybe better to leave it at that instead of turning off hte outlet? I just have no experience with USB outlets that are supposed to turn themselves off
u run only HA on this hardware?
I do this with a zigbee outlet
@jovial verge do you have a link to which one?
Just an ikea outlet with a conbee usb stick lol
I'd ask in #zigbee-archived tho, they can recommend newer, sleeker models
And if you don't want cloud, get you some zigbee lol
OK, going to order a zigbee dongle now 🙂 zwave was good for no cloud, but limited options
I have both, zwave tends to be a little pricier
zigbee is really where the biggest selection/variety/value is these days
can someone recommend a USB UART programmer to me that is a) not full of gotchas like drivers that don't work (fake FTDIs, fake PL2303s) and is b) relatively flexible? like jumpers for voltage, no weird missing pins, that kind of thing?
Is there an 'ideal' place to mount temperature sensors (Aqara) in a room? I'm guessing not in direct sunlight and not directly under AC?
Depends on the room, surroundings, purpose, etc
well, you say mounting as if permanently installing, just place them and move around to check which describes the best temp. place multiple if needed and average it out in HA
Hi! Can someone help me get out of a frustrating rut? I'm trying to migrate my HA running on a Rpi4 to an SSD. I am flashing Home Assistant OS 9.5 on the SSD, plugging it in and getting nothing. First it looks like it's doing something - SSD LED indicates it's working and the green LED on the Raspberry seems to show it's working.
Then it goes in a sort of a loop - Ethernet LEDs go out, Rpi green LED flashes, SSD LED flashes 15 times and it repeats. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Lv4K3JrAq7at15K8
Then, after some time, all the LEDs stay on and just the Rpi green LED flashes periodically in the bursts of three blinks. https://photos.app.goo.gl/78geTLUahU2e8hDk8
I'm using an ADATA SU750 256GB SSD and a UGREEN 2.5″ SATA to USB-C 3.1 “Protect What You Love” Case confirmed to be bootable with Rpi4 here: https://jamesachambers.com/raspberry-pi-4-usb-boot-config-guide-for-ssd-flash-drives/
The weirdest thing is that I managed to get it working yesterday. I first booted HASS from an SD card and saw the setup screen. Unplugged the cable, switched over to an SSD and booted from the SSD. It booted nicely and I was welcomed with the HASS setup screen. Today in the morning - the SSD doesn't work again. I also tried re-imaging the SSD to no success...
What's more, I can't seem to get the Rpi to show up in the router's list of devices any more. For a while I could see it with the hostname "homeassistant", but now it isn't shown any more
I tried changing the power supply and now it gets assigned an IP, but the connection is still refused through the browser http://ip:8123
Found this: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/installing-home-assistant-on-a-rpi-4b-with-ssd-boot/230948, trying to update the EEPROM firmware. Weird though, as it was working at some point
Hello
I have many Somfy motors (rs100 io 10) and I want to controll them from Home Assistant and Google Home.
I've read that Somfy have a dedicated hardware device, but I don't know if you recommand this or another solution ?
And if I have to go with Somfy hardware : What is the difference for this case between :
- Tahoma : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Somfy-1870600-Centralise-Compatible-io-Homecontrol/dp/B091F7W41P/ref=d_pd_vtp_sccl_2_1/262-6446685-6376736?pd_rd_w=hckX0&content-id=amzn1.sym.2204c855-5dd7-4df3-b470-8459f4c43f4a&pf_rd_p=2204c855-5dd7-4df3-b470-8459f4c43f4a&pf_rd_r=XJFMJSWTCT1GZ61ACW2Y&pd_rd_wg=Uz88k&pd_rd_r=937da2e6-b794-443b-b34c-d5bc73ff92b8&pd_rd_i=B091F7W41P&psc=1
- Connectivity kit : https://www.amazon.co.uk/somfy-1870755-Somfy-Connectivity-Kit/dp/B094YLCZFR?th=1
Thank's in advance 🙏
wondering if anyone has 4 in" ceiling RGB LED lights hooked up and smartified -- that you actually like. I got these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Smart-CCT-Selectable-Ultra-Slim-Integrated-LED-Recessed-Light-Kit-Powered-by-Hubspace-50291/313556956 -- issue is they're not super well supported by HA (yet). Curious if there's something better out there. Thanks!
issue is, it's only supported by a HACS plugin, which reverse-engineered the cloud-based API. The cloud-based API is slow to react, and being proprietary, there's risk it'll just stop working one random tuesday.
https://templates.blakadder.com/light.html is the most complete list that I'm aware of for Tasmota (and by extension, ESPhome) supported devices. Scroll down to the "downlight" section and see if anything matches your needs.
Is there a "I don't care about the budget, I just want it to work reliably" brand or shop to buy from?
Well, the shop will depend on where in the world you are 😛
Brand depends on what you want
I'm in the US and want a zigbee hub, some wall plugs, some lightbulb plugs, and for it to work with my home assistant on a Pi.
Then you don't want a Zigbee hub
You want to see the pins in #zigbee-archived
Bulbs... depends on your budget, Hue are kinda the gold standard, but Innr are really good
Plugs, probably Innr
Unfortunately I have looked at pins in some of the channels and I'm still not clear on things. I thought zigbee was the way to go. 😆
No budget
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Got myself a micro HDMI cable. Definitely a boot loop: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jTFcGV9BBgaiWW4t9
Even after following instructions on how to update EEPROM.. 😖
Does anyone here boot HassOS off of an SSD on a raspberry pi? Did you have to jump through any hoops?
I need a recommendation, I currently have hassio running on a RPI 4 with 1GB RAM and it is struggling, sometimes is unresponsive or even inaccessible after a full day of running, I think the 1GB RAM is the problem, I'm thinking to upgrade the hardware and I'm thinking of different options like a better RPI, or an Intel NUC or some rack server that is more future proof and can run multiple containers at the same time without problems, what do you suggest ?
NUC/MiniPC is probably the best option, but there are lots of choices.
I'm thinking that if I want a better rpi, it is hard to find and want something more future proof that I can add more containers eventually
the most appealing option for me would be to look into rack servers SH but not sure what is good and what not, so many options there as well
miniPCs are pretty powerful these days
could get (or 3d print) something like this https://www.amazon.com/Rack-Mount-Intel-MiniPC-Model/dp/B0886JMZW8
what options are there besides NUC ?
lots. just search amazon for minipc
other people here can probably make specific recommendations
I like the idea, 3d printer is also here ready for work 😛
the used lenovo ones are pretty popular
You should be able to find something with terms like USFF, SFF, Mini PC, Thin Client.
Aliexpress has nice Mini PCs with multiple network ports if that's of interest to you. Just search for pfsense, firewall, Mini PC to find them
that's helpful ,thanks
just got one of these poe -> micro-usb + network things, seems to work great for my pi 3B that I'm using for my z-wave controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/
How long does it take for a 1.08gb tar file to get installed ?
depends on hardware and internet connection?
@smoky pike Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
?
Hello everyone
I am currently renovating a small bathroom, and I want to install electric floor heating.
I've been looking for a thermostat with a floor temperature senor that works locally with Home Assistant.
I'm located in Denmark, so a lot of the DIY solutions seen from the USA is not an option due to the rules. Anyone that got any experience or recommendations.
Feature requests for such a device.
- Work locally (Zigbee(2Mqtt) or Wifi)
- In floor temperature sensor
- Needs to be able to adjust without using a phone (the wife factor).
I don want to give a long list of things, I would rather see what you guys might come up with - my own search did no turn up much other than the "devismart" thermostat, which only seems to work via cloud.
Looking forward to your input
Thanks
/JD
which one is better for deepstake + double take facial recognition? I got spare jetson nano 2G laying around but I'm also thinking to about Coral. Is there a big difference in performance?
My apartment has a HeatIt thermostat connected to about a 3kW electric floor mat (I think it's a Scandi firm actually). It's a Zwave one, but I see they do Wifi ones now too. One thing to pay attention to is the impedance of the temperature sensor that goes in the floor. Mine was for an old thermostat and its impedance is outside of the range of the HeatIt, so it cannot read the temperature correctly.
Thanks for the tip, did a quick search. Tons of people using the Z-wave one. But the WiFi seems to be a closed API
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/heatit-product-line/264338/10
😦 unfortunately
A long time ago I ended up going the Zwave route exactly because for heating-related products (TRVs etc) the market seemed to be much better. The Zwave supports for HeatItis very good.
I got a skyconnect to replace by conbee 2, and it keeps reverting my sensors to "Unavailable" >
I get this in the logbook: LUMI lumi.sensor_magnet.aq2 Zha Event was fired 3:13:05 PM - 19 hours ago
Purpble monkey dishwasher.
I've been keeping an eye out for a decent smart deadbolt compatible with home assistant that uses zigbee or wifi.. Preferably zigbee for battery consumption... Any suggestions? (probably not the right place to ask and if not just tell me to bugger off :P)
Yes, I've seen https://zigbee.blakadder.com/locks.html for the record... Most of them I can't seem to purchase
Purpble monkey dishwasher.
Seems like someone's "unhackable" password
Thinking of migrating my setup from a Pi to something more powerful. I have my setup on an external hdd plugged into the Pi (so I have more storage for the sibling plex server). Is there an easy way to migrate an existing setup, especially if I plan to keep running home assistant from the hdd?
Hi all ! I'm not sure where to ask, but I'll soon move to a new place and will do a lot of renovation work and want to make a clean setup.
I'd like to have at least a HomeAssistant + media sever to stream 4k movies on my network. I currently have a RaspberryPi 4 to host a few tools but I'm not sure if it'll be enough for what I want to achieve. Should I considerer something a bit more powerful ? Is there something as power-efficient as the Rpi on the market ?
Thanks !
If you want a media server, a Pi4 isn't it
However, a second hand laptop with a busted screen will often be low power, and higher performance
Or just about any small form factor PC from the last decade (newer is generally more power efficient)
Alright thanks !
I guess the Pi is the only small server with arm arch, right ?
There's lots of small ARM SBCs
None of them are likely to make awesome media servers though
And what would you think about intel NUCs from 2018+ ?
Should be fine
You want a CPUMark of over 900, at least 2 cores, and at least 2 GB of RAM
Alright tyvm !
There's lots of sff options, servethehome has good article
I have the lenovo and it's fairly power efficient for a "real pc". <30W
Hello everyone! I think I may have an interesting challenge that I tried to solve myself but is over my ability...
I ordered and installed 2 sonoff p plus dongles, then setup ha and zigbee2mqtt using each and mostly all worked from the start. I did several reboots and power off and never had issues.....
Until I installed latest ha update, then after reboot I think the usb ports mapping changes and all goes kaput.
Just managed to recover all functionality and went to se how to do usb static mapping.
But.... both coordinators have the exact same name so I do not know how to do it.
And I am using ha OS.
Can someone please help me?
You're supposed to use /dev/serial/by-id/ paths when possible. Sometimes you might need some udev rules
Yes but how you do serial by id if the names are exact the same? udev rules I also tried but I think I ssh to ha os and with the lsusb-t or other I do not get the needed usb devices info.
FYI, resolved. It was a power issue: https://discordapp.com/channels/330944238910963714/944337294389805056/1085892958148112494
Here is the info:
ttyUSB0
/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Silicon_Labs_Sonoff_Zigbee_3.0_USB_Dongle_Plus_0001-if00-port0
ttyUSB1
/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Silicon_Labs_Sonoff_Zigbee_3.0_USB_Dongle_Plus_0001-if00-port0
Is there an ESPHome discord channel?
Want to know if I'd be able to put ESPHome on this (assuming I can figure out how, never flashed something): https://www.magnumheating.com/product/remote-control/
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
hey there,
I am planning my smarthome. Fairly familiar with esphome and HA. I have two running setup. I am located at europe, and I am doing everything from barebone. My motto is no cloud or battery or wifi. It is an apartmant building and air is really dense here. But enough background
I would like to have some nicely integrated buttons around the house. I will have dashboards too but dashboard needs more attention, to interact, buttons are just muscle memory.
So I am thinking about these:
https://elektrikstore.hu/Schneider-Electric-MTN617425-Merten-KNX-4-es-nyomo
(sorry for the hungarian sight)
this is suppose to be a knx capable button. What do you think how can I integrate this to HA? Do I need an additional ethernet knx gateway?
Is there an alternative? Thank you! 🙂
Well, I screwed up again. Purchased some nordlux bulbs that were advertised to work with google, then when they got here they're just bluetooth. Apparently some users have had success getting them paired in Tuya rather than they Nordlux app, but not me. So now they look really nice, but they're gonna stay dumb unless someone has found a way to integrate them into HA :/
maybe esphome bluetooth proxy? 🙂
Hmmm I shall invoke the power of google
I have some ESP32's in my component drawers, so I'll try that next week. Thanks Tadam
Is there any list io supported devices?
No
There are many incomplete lists, most of which are abandoned, but there's no way to assemble such a thing and keep it even close to current
As a rule of thumb, most Zigbee and Z-Wave devices will work. Anything with an integration should work, and stuff that mentions Alexa/Google is anybody's guess
You'll need more than just a knx ip interface to be able to use these. If you consider going all in on knx that's fine I guess. If it's only for the buttons, I guess it's not worth it (money- and time-wise)
You can also check/dev/serial/by-path/ but that's a bit less robust in case you switch ports or something.
Otherwise you have to find unique things about both devices and create rules in /etc/udev/. Just search for udev serial but I wouldn't call it trivial.
May I ask why you have two sticks connected to HAOS?
First thank you for your time and help so far! I have 2 to run zha and z2m due to lack of support on aha for my heater thermostat and tvrs, these in z2m work perfect.
And yes the only difference I can find is on the serial by path and is here I have some doubts on how to do but I will do an effort.
Can I get a suggestion for a single device I can purchase that could run HA for me?
I wanted to purchase home assistant yellow but I saw that it doesn’t come with the raspberry pi so I backed down, I’m looking for something similar that requires a single purchase and could run my HA, preferably with POE and could utilize my SkyConnect
Any suggestions?
See the history of this channel - any small form factor PC, almost any second hand PC from the last decade, etc
I'm gonna get a Raspberry pi 3 is it useable home assistant with ssd or to slow? :/
It's an ok starter platform, not awesome, and the limited RAM is likely to be an issue
It's very easy to get the OOM killer ruining your day
also with limited addons?
swap still to slow on ssd I assume, I run in docker atm and it uses 1.1gb ram atm
Well, the problem is that the Pi3 is USB 2.0....
Honestly, a second hand PC from the last decade will be a better choice
Bonus points for an old laptop with a busted screen 😛
tnx, probally gonna go for a RP 4 with 4gb then
hehe yeah I have one but had some problems with power to the zigbee adapter and no option to turn of screen
What does docker stats --no-stream say?
Make sure to use a powered USB hub if you're going to add an SSD
homeassistant 2.51% 510.7MiB / 15.5GiB 3.22% 0B / 0B 662MB / 8.48GB 65
cloudflared 1.15% 31.36MiB / 15.5GiB 0.20% 0B / 0B 10.9MB / 692kB 10
mosquitto 0.12% 1.984MiB / 15.5GiB 0.01% 364MB / 210MB 2.95MB / 2.24MB 1
zigbee2mqtt 0.01% 74.04MiB / 15.5GiB 0.47% 209MB / 47.4MB 129MB / 70.7MB 12
These numbers don't really match a PI
not on a PI atm
I see. I must've misread something
I'm gonna get a RP 3 and RP4 4gband maybe wanted to use it with HA and maybe RP4 with something else, but seems I need to do other way around 🙂
Why the attachment to PIs?
Wants a crappy experience?
overpriced crappy experience
Any recommendations for outdoors waterproof motion detectors?
Cameras that don't use polling could work too
gonna get 2 in a rack i'm gonna buy, low wattage and it can run HA os
they also use cm4 in yellow can't c be that bad
That's not unique to a PI though
its not bad, its poor performance for the price
true, but thinkcentre etc, people wan't way to much money for those with old hardware
what does that mean?
people wants to much money for old thinkcentre hardware like 300$
I just got one for just over $100
it's hard for me to imagine why someone would want a Pi compared to one of those
they even come with a Windows license, should you need such a thing
lol:
Probably because before a world of 🍑 🫧 starting buying up all the Pi's out of greed.. it was cheaper to spend $35 on a Pi 🤷♂️
Thin clients could probably be had for less at the time as well
🤣 Nope. Also the demand of a refurbished danky computer is not as high as a Pi is...
Just look at the one in the link shared above.. Doesn't even have onboard WiFi..
the thing is that you couldn't ever really get a useful Pi for $35
if you just want a board for a DIY project, sure, and that's why PiZero boards are popular
if you want a mini computer, get a mini computer
The 8GB Pi4 tries to straddle a line, and it's on the wrong side
$55 is a lot less than a mini PC. I think it's a perfectly fine board for a lot of things.
of course, it's impossible to get for that price these days
I don't want/need my server to have WiFi so it wouldn't score anything in my personal cost to benefit ratio.
A Pi also needs a power supply, a storage medium and possibly other stuff like a case so it's not just 35$.
who doesn't have a usb plug and microsd card lying around? 😂
Who runs a "server" on a "Mini PC" 🤣
Right, I can probably toss a mini PC across the room and hit at least 5 of each..
both have their uses. servers are miniPCs are fine
HA on a Pi was fine for me until I outgrew it but it's a great starting point
and easy
I run a ton of stuff on my Thinkcentre m92p. I recently upgraded the SSD because I ran out of local space
I'm running stuff on an AIO PC right now because it's just what I happened to have around. Will definitely get an upgrade at some point in the future.
But for my storage needs (mostly Frigate) it all goes to my NAS
Can you elaborate a little bit? What additional hardware do I need? What other knx devices avaible? 🙂
Power supply, license for ETS (software to change device settings) and most of all special cabling.
You can't use these buttons to just turn eg. a light - you'd need switch actuators, dimmers etc.
There is a plethora of different knx devices. Like ~400 manufacturers.
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone knew of a local way to convert an ir signal to a WiFi one?
As an example, I want all my smart stuff to be usable manually, but want a way to control ir devices (air con, speakers etc) - I know broadlink can do it, but using the broadlink doesn't read changes coming from the manual dumb remote, so things can desync using it
I was hoping I could get some small ir sensor that could sit near by air con and whenever it got a signal from the dumb remote, it'd update HA? Or something like that?
You could set up a simple esphome device with a IR receiver and read it that way. But I heard that with aircon it's a bit more complicated, because the temperature settings are stored in the remote and there is 2-way communication between the internal AC unit and the remote. You are probably better off hacking some esphome device directly in the AC unit -- there are some possibilities for some brands/
I'll have to check it out, but I've never done any esp home stuff before so don't know if I'll do anything to the ac itself, but maybe I can make a sensor
I know about sthe special cabling. psu is not an issue neither.
But I need a software licence too? I was not aware of that. Where can I get more info about this topic?
I would like to use this as an input to HA. So the relay board would be smth else. Cause it would be nice to have more input on a switch then 2
Knx start
anyone know much about the google coral devices? i am trying to figure out which suits me best, i have pci and m2 slots free in my server, but just don't know which one I should be using (for using with frigate)
Whichever one you can get right now.
Currently m.2 in stock.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Coral/G650-04686-01?qs=XeJtXLiO41RGZJDf5bMhyQ%3D%3D
I just got the USB version. Working great was plug n play
The USB version is in stock in. Or rather it said that same thing it says now when I ordered a week ago and I got mine yesterday
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Coral/G950-06809-01?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu3sxpa5v1qrv9%252Bz890pMquX2qAISzny6s%3D
i would prefer something more modern with vpro/amt for a server though. it would run circles around pi and have no problem with memory amount/storage capacity/bandwidth 🙂 i think current sweet spot is at m720q/m920q/m920x/p330tiny. m720q or m920q with G4900T celeron (no ram/disk) could be around 110~120$ here from a 2nd hand/'refurbished' hardware store and complete barebones are sold around 70-80$ 🙂
Do there exist shields to block wireless communication in specific directions?
I have some ESPresense stations, but sometimes my devices get picked up to be in the wrong room. I think if I could block waves from going in a certain direction this could be much more accurate. These waves only travel in a straight line, no?
Sorry, maybe this is more of a question for DIY?
Check out a faraday cage
But signals bounce around so it’ll be hard to entirely block a certain direction
I thought it was mostly straight line of sight with BT/WiFi signals. Didn't think there was much or any bouncing
Then there’s certainly materials that the signal can’t pass through so you should be able to achieve what you want
But as I understand it, signals can either pass through a material, be absorbed by a material, or bounce off a material
Ok, really dumb question that I just cannot find the answer to. How do I safely turn off a dedicated computer running HASSOS?
Ah thanks. I didn't see the button up there. Trying to clean up my "network closet". The quotes are because it's a shelf in my basement, but either way, I need to unplug the power and didn't want to just yank it out.
Thanks!
I'm looking at Quad Core Z3775 1.46 GHz with 2gb ram, 64 eMMC and 500gb hdd, is that good enough for HA? I'm just worried about that low amount of ram, since I can be add-on hog...
Got a link to the device? If the memory is not expandable I wouldn't buy it. Not a fan of emmc either
https://www.asus.com/me-en/Commercial-Laptops/ASUS_Transformer_Book_T100TA/specifications/ it can support up to 4gb
do you want/need the screen?
Not really, gonna be there in a corner
It's gonna be like my HA VM now... "Set it and forget it", I just need something with lower power usage than my main PC idling at 90W
buy one of the SFF units that lyricnz and I keep talking about 🙂
search ebay for "lenovo tiny i5-6500", should be able to find something with 8gig rams, 256 ssd, and 15 watt idle power usage. Ensure that you are getting a power supply/cable with them. Wireless on many, but not all.
This looks like a better deal than i got - https://www.ebay.com/itm/334382772638
(if you are in the USA)
that's a nvme ssd (new supposedly) + 16gigs ram + i5-6500t for $140 (displayport and vga video)
That site is never available for me
Ah went to the Australian one and searched by part number and got it 🙂
Hi everyone 👋 !
Could someone confirm if Ledvance Smart+ Indoor Zigbee EU plugs (I found info about bulbs only) work with Home Assistant? I don't have any smart home installation at this point, but I got four of them and got interested in the Home Assistant project (rather than something proprietary). I'd like to clarify this before buying all the equipment.
If I understand correctly, these used to be OSRAM and they use Tuya internally. On their website https://www.ledvance.com/consumer/smart/faq/faq-for-smart-zigbee-products they list quite a lot of partners (e.g. Alexa, Osram Lightify, Smarttings), but nothing about Home Assistant.
Hey all, I was wondering if there is a way to setup a cec satellite device, rather than connecting the home assistant server directly. I have a nuc running HA but it isn't anywhere near the TV I want to control, so I was hoping I could throw a pi behind the TV and still use cec somehow
Not sure if this is more of an integrations question or hardware
Hi everyone 👋
I have a few options for running Home Assistant and was wondering which is the best. Over the years I have picked up a few different devices so wanted to know the best and use a second system for redundancy as its quite critical as its for my Hydroponic system. I have:
- Raspberry Pi 3B+
- RPI 4 4mb
- Unraid Server (i5-8400 with 64GB RAM) with HA VM (can dedicate up to 2 cores and 16gb ram if needed) located in my garage server Rack so no Zigbee etc.
Server is the most reliable and powerful (been up for 5+ months now) but lacks bluetooth and Zigbee. etc.
I use the RPI3 B+ with NOIR V3 Camera and OpenCV for providing a NOIR feed but I could also use that as a zigbee/bluetooth and hub also as it has to be located with in the area monitored.
As I want a second HA instance for redundancy I was going to use the Remote Home-Assistant Component: https://github.com/custom-components/remote_homeassistant and was possibly thinking of using the RPI 4 (instead of the RPI 3) and the Unraid server with it as I can then share the Zigbee and Bluetooth from the RPI 4 to the Unraid server and then 'hopefully' also having OpenCV with NOIR V3 Camera running on the RPI4 and then do away with the 3 B+?
Just wanted to know what you guys think is best?
Unraid > Pi4 > Pi3
Yep thought so. Should I just keep the Pi3 running NOIR/NDVI or have that running on the RPI4 also? Seems silly using two pi's

There is no "best"... anything
I want something that can integrate some ring cameras, alarm, lighting
Smart outlets
It's always about tradeoffs
A few Esp32 devices
Well, none of that matters to what you run HA on
Is that possible with Ha
If you see it in https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations you can integrate it with HA
Cool
If you don't see it, you may still be able to
So uh
Devices to host
I have a PC I can host on it
But idk about leaving it on 24/7
That's up to you, but you want something at the level of a Pi4 or better
And if it's a Pi4 you really want to use an SSD (on a powered USB hub)
I ran HA on an old i5 laptop for a long time, about 10W peak draw and way more capable than a Pi
Now I run it on a AMD mini-PC
I see
Depends on how much you want to spend, and what you want to do
Also, which country you're in
I'm not in the USA...
Most of the world isn't
Find something with Gbit LAN and either an NVMe (better) or SSD (ok)
4 GB or more of RAM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0899N2L6T/ for instance
Jeeze that’s expensive
You can also check ebay for somewhat recent (U)SFF or even tower machines. Can sometimes be had for less than 50. This is regional, of course.
I have a bunch of different (Tower and SFF) 4th gen intel PCs and they all use about 16-20W~ with a SSD. I probably wouldn't go older than intel's 3th or 4th gen
Newer models are more power efficident, of course, and vPro or similar can also be useful. Sometimes old CPUs don't have AES either. You just have to see what's important to you.
Just pick up an old PC from eBay and either whack something like Unraid on it and then you can have multiple dockers (in basic terms they are mini operating systems) that you can restart etc without shutting off the server. I have HA running in a Virtual machine and then have things like Wyze Docker Bridge, Plex, Radarr etc all running on it.
Unless you want raid function, I think proxmox is great host for mini pcs
Any old pc or laptop you have lying around is probably way better than a pi. Even old laptop with busted screen. Call it a built-in ups
Proxmox or xcp-ng for hypervisor
I'd like to use an old pc I have to use exclusively for HAOS. I have installed ubuntu but have run into problems installing HA as the BIOS can't be selected to UEFI. The PC is Windows 7 era and the latest BIOS I can find is 2010, so maybe too old for UEFI?
My long-term solution is a YELLOW on order since Feb '23 but indications are for a few months wait. Currently running HA on a VM on a laptop which isn't ideal (needs to be running 24/7). So I'd like to use the old pc but don't want to spend £££.
I'm happy to swap to a slightly newer (used) mainboard if that brings UEFI capability but despite researching can't find out whether a particular mainboard has UEFI. I'll keep looking but am I on the right track here please?
if you are a little techie, since you already have ubuntu, you could go the docker install way. This way the entire OS is free for other things as well. https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/generic-x86-64#install-home-assistant-container
Hi All, On the Motion Blinds Intergration page, it suggests many possible bridges to use:
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/motion_blinds/
CM-20 Motion Blinds bridge
CMD-01 Motion Blinds mini-bridge
DD7002B Connector bridge
D1554 Connector mini-bridge
DD7002B Brel-Home box
D1554 Brel Home USB plug
Does anyone have good experience with these? Or Bad etc?
My blinds work with the standard CM-11 remotes already and motors etc are from Coulisse.
Thanks. I'll have a look at the 'docker install' way, but I'm a VERY little-techie! I was hoping to stay away from too much 'coding' stuff and stick to HAOS, but if there's good (simple/step-by-step/can't go wrong) guidance I'll spend the time, and learn. It certainly looks like my old socket-775 PC/mainboard does not support UEFI so unless I commit to another board/CPU combo to upgrade, the Docker way may be best. Again, thanks for the prompt feedback!
Hi guys,
Is there a way how I could make my oven and the stove in the kitchen smart in such a sense that I can remotely see if it's on or off? Just for safety reasons, nothing fancy. (I do know that it's not as easy as a smart plug and I need an electrician)
I thought maybe some device I could install with the fuses?
I use the Shelly 3EM for similar use cases
But it depends heavily on the region. There might be better devices for NA.
Yes, if it's electric and on its own circuit, something that uses CT clamps at the breaker box could work. There's a few options, IoTawatt or an Emporia Vue (potentially flashed with ESPhome) are things I see mentioned a lot but it can depend on your needs and location, etc
(I'm located in Germany, if you perchance know the regulations 🫣)
Mkay, I thought about shelly too
I'll look into the other two as well! Thanks!
i bought Shelly smart switch and can I just connect wires in series that are using same thing and not parallel using splitter (1 in, 3 out)
I'm located in Germany too. Shelly works very well then.
I have mine installed for 3 years now.
I've read that I'd need a "Schütz" (contactor) if I want to disable the shelly 3em, eg if the stove is on while we're on holidays. Do you have that, too?
The Shelly is just connected to the 3 phases and has the clamps around the wires going to the devices i want to measure
I didn't connect the relay
Why do you want to disable the shelly?
hey everyone! I have a gocontrol gd00z-8-gc that I installed a few months ago. I had some issues with my zwave2mtqq container so I reset everything and added the device back. When adding it back, it was recognized as a gd00z-7, but with the correct company (nortek). It was showing up correctly before. any ideas on getting it to show up correctly? this happening to anyone else?
In case we left the house and the oven/stove were still turned on 🤷🏼♀️
I had my SkyConnect stick up and working fine for a while but yesterday it just stopped responding. The device shows up but it times out trying to communicate. I removed all Zigbee components and started over but I get: Logger: bellows.ezsp.protocol
Source: runner.py:179
First occurred: 15:14:56 (1 occurrences)
Last logged: 15:14:56
Unknown application frame 0x2B88 received: b'16b2' (b'412188882b16b2'). This is a bug!
Hello, Which soil moisture sensors do you have for outdoor use?
Getting tired of ZHA with my Aqara roller, how is the skyconnect on Zigbee2mqtt, stable?
Oh i thought you only want to see if it is on. Then yes, the shelly cannot switch such a load on its own.
What's wrong with it? I just hooked up a Moes AM43 to ZHA and it seems fine. From what I've seen they're the same hardware
can't tell position and sometimes it just don't wanna do anything
Hmm I haven't seen that yet. I think z2m on skyconnect is still not stable.
Anyone tried one of these tuya wall panels with a dial?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0LFtUe
Could be cool for a guest room to only surface some devices to it, so the guests can control just “their” stuff
Hello everyone, I need help setting up issues on github. I bought a PIR presence sensor model TS0202, unfortunately the device is not supported. I was advised to assume the mentioned problem. But I really don't know how to go about it. I'm stuck on the data base entry field. Where to get it? This is the log from z2m? Sensor added in zigbee2mqtt, also tried by EDGE version.
link to device.
I've got one of the Martin Jerry single pole WiFi switches (https://templates.blakadder.com/martin-jerry-MJ-S01.html). Is this a switch I could put on a switch that controls a minisplit HVAC system? I believe it's a higher voltage than standard switches. The switch says it's rated for 240v from what I can tell, but wasn't sure if anyone has any experience replacing a switch that is not standard voltage.
The amazon listing says 100V – 240V AC
So it should be safe to use in this situation?
I would get a second opinion but probably. 15A should be enough as well
HVAC is a pretty serious motor load, I would do more research before deciding that a generic 15A switch is sufficient. There is a lot more to just consider than just "is 'amps' < 15".
Hence the recommendation of getting a second opinion and should instead of is 🙂
What else should be considered?
is anyone aware of a wifi connected sleep tracker? I'd be curious as to trying to alter automations based on missing or extra sleep, or changing alarms based on the stage of sleep
Anyone know of a sulfur detector?
Could it be used in a bathroom for controlling the fan?
Ideally it would be a humidity & sulfur detector
The MQ-136 is a hydrogen sulphide sensor. You would need an additional humidity sensor. It can't do that.
This is DIY (e.g. ESPHome).
Has anyone used this in a bathroom?
I'm not sure this is the best place for my question but here goes: I have a heat pump and furnace. The installers used a Honeywell T10. I got ahold of a T6 Zwave one. Has the same back plate so I just plugged it in. It seems to work and setup was ok but I'm stuck with an "outdoor temperature sensor error". Anyone have any idea if the T6 just isn't compatible or maybe I need to modify something?
The T10 is set to "internet" for external temp sensor. I thought it was wired the whole time.
Hi, I would like to kindly ask someone for help I do have homeassistant installed on odroid-n2 essentialy HA Blue with 128GB MMC from storage tab it seems I have really more than 90GB free but unfortunately I can execute any addon even ssh one as it's complaining no free space left. I removed majority of backups, my DB has ~300MB. Any way how to expand that internal docker storage to rest of that MMC?
The #installation-archived channel can help you there
Hi all, I have a Bond Bridge I'm using for my ceiling fans and I also have an electric fireplace that is controllable by the bridge. However, the fireplace is IR and requires a very specific angle to receive the signal which would require me to mount the Bond Bridge in an unreasonable location.
Are there any RF to IR repeaters that I could use (i.e. send an RF signal from the Bond Bridge and it blasts an IR signal to the fireplace)? Or are there small, smart and, non-wifi IR blasters?
Where do yall think is best to buy your smart home appliances? I was thinking Amazon, but not sure
amazon is usually not the best place but it highly depends on the products
led strips and a lot of zigbee stuff are much cheaper on aliexpress for identical items
zwave stuff is often cheaper on the manufacturers website such as zooz
etc etc
I found zooz to be the cheapest at thesmartesthouse.com website which I think is just a front end for zooz.
it is
buddy is wanting to HA his house during his remodel, I just sent him there. 🙂
still need to find something to run HA on that isn't an old PC.
ouch.
i smelled smoke around midnight and ran outside trying to see if it was my house and saw his going up and called 911 and all that
fun fun
neighbor a few doors up lost his garage a couple years back. RC car lithium battery
we're putting a bunch of low voltage everywhere for led strips
what are you using to power/control them?
i'm still figuring out if we can put a controller in a central location
most likely quinled dig quad or his new dig octa setup
but if we can put the controllers/psus in a central location we can put a ups there
and then he has emergency power in each room even with no power
big selling point for him on it
problem is he wants rgbw-cct such as sk6812 (5v) only)
I just want undercabinet lighting that is fa st.
so i'm not sure we can really get away with running that long of wires without voltage drop on data and amp constraints over distance
fast?
right now it's a zigbee outlet and a 12v power supply. so the power supply has a delay before the lights come on
i made a disco kitchen
you can walk in, motion sensor triggers immediately and you're halfway across the kitchen before the under cabinet lights turn on.
mine are all the same
actually i think my led strips turn on a bit before the zigbee bulbs
so my thought was have an LED controller instead of a power supply and trigger the controller.
yeah
don't really need rgb.
i prefer wled which is wifi on an esp32 but if you want zigbee then get the gledopto pro ones
I can do anything.
basically the only ones i've seen suggested without issues
that wants rgb.
i think they make an analog strip version
frankly i'd use wled myself even if you arent using rgbw
what strips are you using or will you use
5v? 12v? 24v? warm white only? warm/cool?
haha, yeah, dr zzzzs
not drzzs
he just resells them. quindor is the guy who actually designs them
i looked at the gledopto pro again. i dont see why it cant be used for just white
just because it has rgb outputs as well doesnt mean you need to use them
I was thinking about trying that.
I would need 2 of them as it's a galley kitchen.
I don't feel like pulling wire.
I could just power that from the existing power supply and remove the outlet/power switch.
assuming enough amps
it's one of those sonoff S31's
i meant the psu
i bought the wifi sonoff s31 (6 of them) and flashed them all to esphome
pretty happy with them. put 5 on 3d printers and one on my washing machine
12v 5A
right now I'm just turning the power supply on and off with the sonoff.
the diguno's need a case
ya i 3d print them
I still need to assemble my prusa
lol
so the kitchen is a vault ceiling, and the stuff just sits on top of the cabinet. I ran outlets up the wall from the existing outlet.
hmm. btf makes a zigbee dimmer 5v-24v input
Considering replacing some of the DIN rail switches in the house with smart ones. I have very little electrical knowledge so of course won't be doing the install myself. Is shelly still the go-to?
Can someone suggest widely recommended remote zigbee buttons? Looking at the Aqara mini switch. But maybe there's some other nice ones with some extra features that are also widely recommended?
@cinder sentinel i use AUBESS Tuya ZigBee 4 button device. Work perfectly. https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004231326966.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.34871c24HDf1Ud&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol . Sonoof devices works fine too, and they are small. https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004231326966.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.34871c24HDf1Ud&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol
Is getting a 4 gang a no-brainer?
for having multiple actions available I mean. Plus it's same price lol
I'm sorry but I don't fully understand. What you are asking? If I misunderstood something then I apologize. I don't know English very well.
I mean, do you use the one with 4 buttons, or just with 1?
Both. 4 button - 12 actions, 1 button - 3 actions. A lot of fun with this with 4 buttons. Works great, and it's relativle cheap.
Which Sonoff ZigBee dongle should I get E or P? planning for a future use and getting rid of my hue & smartthings hubs
P if you want to use zigbee2mqtt, either if you want to use ZHA
What's the advantages of zigbee2mqtt?
#zigbee-archived can tell you all about both, but it's decoupled from HA and has a list of supported hardware, where ZHA is part of HA and things are assumed to work (but there's no easy way to know)
my take on it, z2m was stable and "useful" a lot longer ago, and supported a wider range of items. If you are using things that ZHA supports, ZHA has matured and works fine. So long time users have always used z2m, and it works, and there is no reason to move (but there was a reason to stay previously). For newer users, ZHA requires less integration.
So no reason to go for P if you are starting new?
If you're going to use Z2M then you want the P
Whether you go with Z2M or ZHA is entirely a personal choice
Oh, OK
yah, i have a sonoff-e on the basis that i starter more recently and it was the same chipset as the HA branded stick. Also at $30 USD for either, my thought was i could get the P if the E was a pain without much financial burden.
in either case slap it on a usb extension cord
Any Zigbee socket recommendations?
are you asking for outlets?
most people use smart plugs - there's not a huge amount of options for outlets but i think there are a few for EU
granted they're all chinese brands so personally i wouldnt use them
that looks like a plug - quite a few options but you have to be weary of the quoted amp rating
just cuz they say they can handle 15a doesnt mean they really can
so for stuff like heaters they arent a great option
I won't be running high loads. Just 1-2W decorative lights.
those lights cant be controlled with a controller?
ah
ya more than one way to skin the cat for sure
like if the air purifiers have a remote with ir you could control that way with an ir bridge / transceiver
but to answer your question there are quite a few decent options for zigbee smart plugs
hue is gold standard but they're expensive and do not have power monitoring
the sonoff s31 zigbee ones are pretty popular
i think they have eu variants
you can find ones that work with z2m there then google "[model] home assistant" and see what people say
good rule of thumb is figure out what works well with home assistant then buy it instead of figuring out how to make what you already have work
eventually you'll find brands that "just work" and have good integrations with home assistant
Hi im in usa and looking for decent cheap light bulbs
Just white but I need a few dozen so they need to be inexpensive
I have a hue bridge if that helps
white as in color temp changing or no?
like from warm white to cool white
hue is the gold standard but they're expensive even for just the white/ambiance (color temp changing) so i guess your best bet is with ikea tradfri bulbs using zigbee2mqtt or zha
Eh it doesn’t really matter if the temp changes
I mean something more control is nice I jsut figure it’s more expensive
All color bulbs would be awesome
i have all hue bulbs (some with color temp change) and then for rgb(w) i use led strips
looks like you can get ikea rgbw for $22 https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/tradfri-led-bulb-e26-800-lumen-smart-wireless-dimmable-color-and-white-spectrum-globe-40439169/ depending on bulb size lumen etc
still expensive
well you can technically buy their bridge but no you want to use zigbee using zha or z2m
hue bulbs can be moved off their shitty bridge too
all my hue bulbs are controlled with zigbee2mqtt and home assistant
hue bridge is in a drawer eventually to be used as a hockey puck
A 4 pack of 800W warm white hue is $50
you basically figure out if you want to use ZHA or Z2M then you pick a zigbee coordinator (such as a usb stick) then you pair the bulbs and motion sensors etc to the usb stick
Hmm what use is the hue change for white?
be careful buying them off amazon they often sell old versions instead of newest
Is that practical
i'd buy directly from hue especially when buying a lot of them
I setup a home assistant thing but realized I don’t have much to control haha
a home assistant thing?
All my outdoor lighting can be controlled
Haha
I’d like to have a little tablet display or Eink display for controlling lights
Nice, is it just run with Esp32?
it's a $75 fire tablet that i removed all the amazon bullshit from and then 3d printed a case for it
Lol and didn't pay for fully kiosk browser
Nice
send me $8 i'll do it
I have an old nexus tablet I can use maybe
depends how old it is but probably
For the record, you can get regular android tablets for not much over a hundred and you don't need to jump thru amazon BS to put it into kisok mode
It’s a nexus 7 tablet
fully kiosk browser is used whether they're android or fire tablets
From like 2014
or purpose made kiosk screen things
They've just locked down newer fire tablets to where they are not recommended, the amount of crud you need to block to prevent themveslves from updating
then it's probably to old and slow to quickly load a ui but you can play with it and confirm
mine is the 2022 model idk what has changed in like 8 months
i dont even use it that much i just jumped on it for $75 black friday to play with it
Prob too old yeah
i still havent mounted it cuz i gotta go in crawl space in attic to run the PoE cable to power it
and i dont wanna
Problem is im moving out of this place soon and I don’t want to install anything too crazy
then dont lol
Yeah I won’t
But I want something fun to play with
I don’t even have a smart thermostat in this place
i'm in texas we just turn the ac on in may and leave it on til september
Do you dry to a crisp there
no i stay moist
Ewwww okay lol
Hi, I'm having issues connecting to HA via iOS app on an old iPhone 6, same settings on Xs are working fine, is it limited by the iOS version?
#ios_and_mac-archived can help you better
Can you suggest a hardware to run HA OS only? Im using 4Gb RPI 4B with SD card. I want something more stable. Thank you!
I live in EU / HU
You could add a powered USB hub and an SSD, but just about any mini-PC will be better
There's a long history of recommendations in this channel
Used Lenovo ones like the m910q are popular
Idk how available used mini pcs are in the eu but in the USA on eBay they’re pretty cheap
You can also get new lower powered models on Amazon etc
Hello all, when a Haos is installed directly in a x64 system, how can we change the behaviour of the power on button?
bios maybe
I'd like to have a backup SD Card with a "relatively recent" version of my complete operational system on it as a standby for a potential failed primary SD Card. I haven't tried it yet, but will the Balena Clone Drive option do this on Windows? I want a card that I can just plug in upon failure of the primary, boot, copy the latest backup from my Windows machine across the network (SAMBA), and restore it and be up and running (with ZWave, Zigbee, and all as they were). Anybody have any experience with that?
frankly that sounds crazy compared to just removing a microsd card from the equation completely
the zwave/zigbee dongles if setup with disk/by-id method will work after a restore 100%
I'm actually trying to hold out for a Yellow to replace my Pi4 once available configured that way. Not sure I want to go through the pain of converting my Pi atm. Also, don't understand that second sentence. What is the disk/by-id method?
When you configure your dongle, is by the "by-id" is like an unique ID
I just move from a VM to a x64 installation
Switch the ZigBee dongle (skyconnect) and restored the backup
After 30min my HA was up and running
Just need to restart once HA after the restore because of a little bug in the add-ons, they started but it said they were stopped 😅
Well I need to check it, because my instance stopped, and I found nothing in the logs and I was doing some stuff near my new HAOS host, so maybe I touched the power button, but I can't find in the logs if the reason was that
yellow is basically a pi4... there's no good reason to buy one frankly
So, I have a Aeotec Z-Stick 5+ that was set up initially in 2020, and has been working since. I added a dconz ConbeeII Zigbee about a year ago. Don't remember how they were "configured". Is this something new? And can they be changed?
they can be changed let me find a link
are you using zha or z2m
and zwavejs or zjs-ui
Except that is comes preconfigured with SSD, Thread/Zibgee built-in, and upgradeable. I'm assuming, perhaps erroneously, that I can boot, copy a backukp, and restore to it, and be back up and running as if it were my Pi.
zha zjs-ui
that doesnt negate what i said
they're underpowered for haos (pi4 and other similar sbcs)
that's what my zwave js ui is setup as using the by-id method
idk how to change it for zha but same principle
it replaces /dev/tty0 etc
I have nearly 900 entities (mostly zwave), 14 dashboard pages, almost all lights in my home zwave (in-wall), water main, heat, alarm, LOTs of sensors and automations, and my Pi stats show average CPU 3.7% and 25% RAM usage consistently. It is also sufficiently responsive.
basically without using the by-id method linux/buildroot (what haos is made with) can and will change the usb numbers based on idk i'd have to google it and then they dont boot cuz the addons cant find the usb sticks
well i moved from a pi4 with ssd booting to a used laptop with some actual compute power and my webuis load faster, addons start faster, backups complete faster, all sorts of things
and it's not anecdotal, it's just the truth about pis and other sbcs being underpowered
whether or not you've noticed an issue is irrelevant lol
My zwve is set up as /dev/ttyACM0
yeah that's the wrong way
How did you determine the unique id?
settings -> system -> hardware -> all hardware -> scroll down til you find ttcacm0 and look below it
your zigbee dongle will be there too if you want to copy it then figure out how to change in zha
I'm seeing /dev/serial/by-id/usb-0658_0200-if00 for the zwave
Can you just change it in the zwj-ui?
And this "by-id" is a requirement for your zwave/zigbee to come back up properly in the event of a rebulid/restore?
Aeotec Z-stick 5+
it's a requirement for them to come up properly after power loss in general.. you'd have to google it for specific reasons why i forget
I've had power losses before and they always come back up fine. I had to do hard shutdowns before.??
"Instead of using the physical tty port, you should use the /dev/serial/by-id/* port. This won’t change when you plug and unplug a device."
Interesting. I've even unplugged my zstick with HA running and plugged it back in. Normally do backups of the stick with HA off tho. I'll chase this down some more. Thanks for the heads up and insight.
However, it is recommended to use "by ID" mapping of the device (see Adapter settings). This kind of device path mapping is more stable, but can also be handy if you have multiple serial devices connected to your Raspberry Pi. In the example below the device location is: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Texas_Instruments_TI_CC2531_USB_CDC___0X00124B0018ED3DDF-if00
best practice even if you havent been burned yet
anyways i was excited about the yellow too but luckily they kept pushing my preorder out and after like 6 months of lies i gave up and got my money back
and then learned how they're silly compared to buying a decent mini pc / nuc / etc
also take a look at that video - it's 30 seconds long
A LOT of this stuff I set up back in early 2020, and left it alone for the most part. I don't even think "by-id" was a thing then. 😂
i believe it always has been
buying a nuc or similar for ~$200 is by far a better option and then using whatever zigbee/thread stick(s) you want
That video tho... I do have my Zigbee stick on the end of a USB extension cable and have had zero problems.
same goes for zwave
Yeah, initially did that, but have had my zstick in a USB3 port for well over a year now.
well it's the first line in what not to do in the zwave js docs
on an USB extension cord (this works wonders!)
away from other USB ports
away from metallic surfaces
and especially not in the back of a server rack
Seriously, try it! The success rate of this is surprisingly high.```
i'm sure if you looked at the driver logs you'd see occasional issues at best
Yeah, know all about it. I struggled through the transition from OZW 1.4 to ZwveJS and beyond. Tried all sorts of things, including using extension. To me, it made no difference. Logs are clean. I configure all my devices to minimize traffic.
Guess I'm lucky (so far).
Question about this... I'm in Canada, so using Canadian Pesos, but looking on a number of websites the prices seem to be more around ~300 or so for a Celeron. Is it worth it? I've NOT gotten into this yet, but I want to, so I keep scanning for decently priced hardware. I have an old surface pro 4 I don't use, some old MSI gaming laptops and even a Samsung Chrome book I got when I switched phone providers. Should I just try using one of those to fiddle and learn? This is all new to me, but one thing seems sure, getting a RaspberryPi seems near impossible atm.
I’d buy a used mini pc before a celeron personally but apparently the newer ones aren’t the worst
Oh
Gaming laptop dude
That’s perfect
Built in cooling and battery backup
Ok, good to know. Ya? I have two very solid MSI gaming laptops that sit and collect dust since I built a desktop.
Might be power hungry due to the gpu
Sad
I use a used laptop running haos myself
Highly recommend
Thought about that, but the power cost will be less than buying a NUC during this learning phase.
Mine has no battery or screen or keyboard.. lady gave it to me for free when I helped her xfer files
Ok, I'll use the older laptop as a springboard to learning. This is all new to me, but I want a project and to learn - this seems like a solid choice.
Thanks for this!
The built in power backup is nice and avoids the need for a ups for it
Which is an added bonus
Sounds good, though I do have that already. Built a Unifi setup in my home just for the sake of learning and also setup a ups with it all.
They’re cheap to buy with a broken screen but working too.. really can’t say enough good things about them
QNAP NAS, UDM Pro, 24port switch, etc. Was a fun learning experience.
Homelab and UniFi don’t really go hand in hand lol
LOL. So I've heard.
I have a udmp as well. I went full retard with all UniFi including cams
Really nice integrations with home assistant too
Setting up the 3 x APs in the house is awesome, though. Solid wifi6 coverage.
Device trackers for guests or whoever on Wi-Fi
Person etc detection events for cameras
I ran all ethernet cable throughout the house.
Oh snap. What cameras did you go with? I've been eyeballing this just recently. I'd like to get one for the front ajd one for the rear of my hoise
Their cams are overpriced and often out of stock
If you just have to have them then go for it otherwise I’d buy whatever #cameras-archived is suggesting lately instead
Look into frigate
I'll take a peek. Guess that means won't be using unifi protect, which may or may not be a bad thing.
I've cables already run and POE+ ports set aside.
wow that came super fast from Hong Kong, like 5 days from there to Australia.
Got my first thread/matter device! Eve Motion
works pretty good.
just need to get a dongle for HA that does thread, just running it in straight up homekit for now
Speaking of dongle - is there a suggested z-wave / zigbee dongle? (I have next to no devices, JUST getting into it all). As stated above, I plan to use an old gaming laptop to learn and slowly tinker.
The #zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived channels can guide you on the respective options
Aye, and I also just stumbled onto the HA website talking about that as well 🙂 Thank you, though, I keep forgetting to scroll through the available channels!
Does there exist some (oled) Display to display some data of Home assistant?
Does anyone have experience with these?
(see link below from Impact)
Will it work on SynologyNAS?
I can't visit that but here's a more proper link: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004561604739.html
Thanks. Any idea if it is any good?
No, as I said. I cant even visit that
Sorry, this item's currently unavailable in your location.
Sorry, the page you requested can not be found:(
Hmm. Why don't quotes work here?
Im searching a cheap plug that can measure wattage. On my search I found the "Tasmota Steckdose NOUS A1T"
The review say I have to calibrate it. Does this only mean voltage? Or do I also have to calibrate the ampere? I can measure voltage, but not ampere (just have a multimeter)
If that's the case, is the Shelly plug s good? Or are there better alternatives? (EU plug 230v)
Multimeters can measure amps too. I suggest buying a energy meter to calibrate and follow this: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Power-Monitoring-Calibration/
FYI, everything after the ? in the URL can be removed
Also, you can usually remove the biit before /dp/ too, turning that into
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B076ZR57L6/ref=asc_df_B076ZR57L6/
The ref is most likely not needed either. But yes, something like this
Ah okay, thanks for the info 😄
I have one that looks exactly like this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B096VFMZ96
And this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B007459MH6
The latter one is apparently very accurate but hard to read. The other one I bought without reading tests but seems accurate as well
Thanks!
Hey! I have Shelly RGBW2 in "4 white channels" mode. It's 24V, on a 1000 W power supply. When I turn on 1 channel, I get full brightness and shelly reports 41W (it is 4 meters long LED power strip 10W/m). When additionally I switch on the 2nd channel on full, it suddenly reports 30W on both channels. When I add 3rd channel, it has 24W on each. When I switch on all four, I get only 20W on every channel, 80W total, and the LED strips are less bright. What's going on? Shelly should be able to have a total output 290W and 90W on a single channel. I am barely getting to 160W in total and never exceeding 40W per channel. Is anyone else experiencing this too?
Looking for a solution to make my stair way light not trigger when the cat gose up or down stairs. I was thinking maybe using a motion sensor but put an aperture over the sensor to narrow to a beam and aim it human chest hight. Unless someone has a more eligent solution.
I need to buy a code-lock deadbolt for my house. I want to be able to manage the codes through home assistant. I don't have a preference between wifi, z-wave, zigbee. Any hardware recommendations?
kwikset zwave are popular
keymaster is a great integration that allows you to know which code was used to unlock and you can assign names/words to each code to notify that "babysitter unlocked door" or "side chick unlocked back door"
keymaster is zwave only but has beta support for zigbee2mqtt iirc - or at least it is being tested
I was just looking at keymaster it's looking nice
problem is with both zigbee and zwave you cant just buy a lock and a usb dongle etc and have them work. both meshes really need a mesh to reach to/from controller and lock etc
i.e. you'd probably need to buy two or more powered repeater devices such as light bulbs, light switches, smart plugs, etc to be able to reach the lock from wherever home assistant and the zigbee/zwave dongle lives
if you're really close with the coordinator/controller for zigbee/zwave then you can direct connect. zwave is more sensitive in this regard due to frequency and radio wave magic
tldr spend money yo
Looking for a bit of help with a hardware issue. I have two aircon units in the same room - same model/brand. I have bought two IR remotes. Problem is, both aircons respond to the same IR codes, so when I send a command from one IR remote, it turns both AC units on/off.
Is there any way to "direct" the IR signal to just one unit?
It's quite important to me to be able to turn them on/off independently of each other.
I tried positioning them creatively (even behind walls) but both units still pick up the IR signal
you can probably use some sort of shielding
idk i'd drop that question in #diy-archived and see what shows up
Ahh sorry I thought you found a working link. What if you search for Ewelink Dongle-E Usb Dongle Zigbee Gateway Zigbee 3.0 Usb on google?
or ask in the esphome discord cuz there's more nerds like that there
@cold moon thanks! in my case I'll be using a raspberry pi and it'll be about 10 feet from the lock
what dongle for z-wave would you recommend?
That's better asked in #zigbee-archived
Do you want to use this with ZHA or Z2M? It should be okay for ZHA. The P model should work well with both but the E only has experimental support in Z2M
Ahh okay thanks. I'm actually not sure I have never done anything with those protocols yet I didn't know there was something beside Z2M
I just wanted my Synology NAS to support the Zigbee protocol
But I guess it's not just as simple as that
I'd suggest you buy something CC2652 based so you can test out both ZHA and Z2M and see what works best for you and with your devices
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#recommended-zigbee-radio-adapters-and-modules
Let's continue this in #zigbee-archived if you have further questions about zigbee
zooz 700 series and a usb extender to move the zwave dongle away from the usb ports as explained here: https://zwave-js.github.io/node-zwave-js/#/troubleshooting/connectivity-issues
thank you all, super duper helpful.
I'm looking for outdoor LED lighting that is hass compatible. I'd like to have some "up lighting" so I'm thinking like LED or par cans that light upwards towards trees. I'm very DIY and do a lot of LED electronics work, I'd even prefer something like that
I guess I'm looking for two types of things: 1) a controller for generic LED strip (I was planning to make one from 8266 hardware as I've done before) and 2) something that is more like directional LED lighting (this is the part I know much less about).
I have support for zwave and zigbee, and I guess bluetooth if I put in an esphome repeater
Probably a job for wled then
agreed that and fastled I've done before. but what about the directional lighting?
what does directional lighting mean
like spotlight stuff?
these guys sell esp lights you can flash with wled or control with xlights or whatever
err nvm you have to provide your own esp they're just ws2811
that's fine I can provide the controller
this is a great idea so they just come w/ the pigtail
I'll look into this, nice, thanks!
i'd suggest asking in the wled discord or one of the offshoot discords for better/other suggestions regarding that type of stuff
take a look at the quinled octa lineup: https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-octa/ might be a decent option for you due to multiple outputs being needed
@plain pawn in case you didnt see this before walking away^
need LoRa switch for weak signal situation.
am in europe.
what can you suggest? esp32 base would be cool but all I see is "AZDelivery ESP-32 LoRa" which has some kind of display? I don't need that certainly
cant get away with 433mhz or something?
nope
I just found
https://www.amazon.de/Breakout-Antenne-Funkmodul-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B084NWDFH1/
which seems to be what I need
question is now what is a good "coordinator" ?
Great idea, thanks!
I am running Home Assistant Operating System on Proxmox on a Dell Optiplex 3040 Micro, and have given the VM 4 CPU cores and 8 GB of memory. I have just started building my configuration back up, and am not running a lot of things. But the VM constantly has the CPU pinned and is maxing out the RAM. top on the host shows that kvm is the main culprit, so it seems to be the VM that is the culprit. What is the best starting place to chase down what is causing this issue?
Is there documentation on migrating HA from one device to another? I'm moving HA from an older raspberry pi to a newer one, and I'm not sure where to begin
If you're using HAOS on both then it's easy
Take a backup, download the backup, restore it on the new install
Then reboot the host after restore
Sounds easy enough. Only potential hiccup. I have HA running on an external HD.
Just plug that HD into the new pi running HA?
You'll still have to do the backup and restore, but sure
Do a fresh install, do the onboarding, then do https://www.home-assistant.io/common-tasks/os/#using-external-data-disk to use the new disk
Then you can restore
Gotcha gotcha. Well cool deal, hopefully no whammies and everything goes smooth. Thanks!
Oh, is that gonna wipe the disk though?
Got Plex on there with some movies and shows
😂 I know. It’s what I had on hand. Not doing anything huge with it like transcoding.
HAOS isn't designed as a general purpose OS
has anyone successfully used an Intel AX210 M.2 Wifi/BT card in a HAOS setting?
nothing seems to happen (I'm passing through the device from a proxmox ve host)
I can't even get a confirmation that it's working on the proxmox host, it's definitely seeing the wifi half but I can't find anywhere whether this is one of those devices where bluetooth is connected over USB pins on the m.2 card or if the 'main' pci express device is also used for bluetooth
well apparently the AX210 does use USB for Bluetooth, and for some insane reason M.2 USB was off in my system's bios even though M.2 "Wifi + Bluetooth" was on. Thanks HP!
How do you test a motion sensor placement? I'm not sure where the best place is, and using the adhesive on the wall feels like it wouldn't come up easy
Does anyone know how I can use the calibration of my shelly 2pm in home assistant?
You could always use a removable 3M strip
I saw someone use Blu Tack (putty)
And yes, almost every motion sensor I've had came with adhesive that ended up ripping off paint if I took it down
@midnight palm I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
well that startled me
nevermind seems to be hardware restrictions from the router, it can't route anything bigger than a /24
Does anyone know how to monitor the fan speed (either as RPM or as a %) of the official Pi POE+ Hat Fan when running HAOS?
There's probably going to be a custom component for it
@glossy raft I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
Hi! Im trying to mound external harddisks to my HaOS, but i get the following errors:
cont-init: info: running /etc/cont-init.d/92-local_mounts.sh
Local Disks mounting...
Using PUID 0 and PGID 0
Failed to create '/dev/fuse': Read-only file system
ntfs-3g-mount: fuse device is missing, try 'modprobe fuse' as root
Failed to create '/dev/fuse': Read-only file system
ntfs-3g-mount: fuse device is missing, try 'modprobe fuse' as root
[00:12:19] FATAL: Unable to mount local drives! Please check the name.
Anyone knows what to do here? I have checked the name(s) and i think its correct.
it looks like you use NTFS on your hard drive.
NTFS is an filesystem from Microsoft which is not supported by Linux i think.
I just went thru this last night and this video explains it perfectly. Hope it helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHvBzX41-Ag
haha, i am watching that one right now xD
I think the issue was you mounted it in read only instead of read write
I just put the drives in, how can i change if its read only or read write?
Start disabling extensions. My HA is 4gigs of ram and 2 cores on a i5-6500 SFF, proxmox shows 1.5% cpu utilization. You can SSH in and run TOP, and see if there is anything obvious sucking up power.
Is there also a way to make 3 external hdd's (ext4) into 1 folder? Like some sort of software raid.
In HAOS, no
Alright, thanks
You should run something like top -d1.5 inside the VM instead. docker stats and docker top might also be useful
Hello, is anyone using a "smart clock" kind of thingy which can be rooted/made such that all unnecessary stuff can be removed? I thought about lenovo smart clock 2 or nest hub 2 but those two still have all the google stuff running the background
because that's what I'd like 😄
and I'm ready to accept a "such thing does not exist atm" answer
nice gif tho, I'm going to steal it
Maybe you’d like a Nixie tube clock running wled?
I would like a nixie tube clock but at the moment I cannot afford one actually worth placing on a desk
unless that was an irony then ¯_(ツ)_/¯
I have mounted 3x 2tb for camera recordings. But when i start filling the free space, i get a error that there is not more space left for some reason. By some reason the OS space gets filled instead of the disks i have mounted. Anyone experience with this?
Are you using HAOS?
Yes, well i bought a Intel NUC with Home Assistant pre-installed. So think i am.
I have installed the addon Samba NAS to be able to mount external disks and acces them through cifs.
It says there are not repairs available
@glossy raft When using Discord's Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Use Shift + click on the Reply option, or click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).
System -> About: Home Assistant 2023.3.6 Supervisor 2023.03.2 Operating System 9.5 Frontend 20230309.1 - latest
That's not where I said to go, but at least it tells you that you're using HAOS
And so... you don't get to use multiple disks
Well. For Add-ons where i can give a cifs username, password and location. I can use the location Samba NAS provids me?
How else can i record a video feeds of camera's?
Use an NVR and don't use HAOS for it
HAOS is for home automation, not a general purpose OS
But it supports lots of things, so there must be a way...
By support you mean there are many add-ons?
You’d probably be a good candidate for unraid running haos in a VM
Yes, i used to do that. But with the current power prices i wanna try to get as many devices on the same device. I got my whole homelab running my mij NUC for now.
So i know i limit myself, but thats the challenge to find a way to get as much working with little resources.
Im just looking for people with experience to do the same stuff i wanna do. Not what is "default" supported buy HAOS.
You can't, it's not supported
Ok, thanks
Re-install your NUC with Unraid, run HAOS in a VM
I might. Thanks for the responses so far
Hey everyone, I asked my question in general but it is supposed to be in here. I am thinking of buying a tiny pc after some advice from a few people. Is there a minimum spec I need for my tiny PC? I was assuming 16GB RAM and any i3/5 or Ryzen 3/5 CPU's.
I guess a plus is a NVME SSD or just a normal SSD. Am I missing something ? storage size? 128/256 GB
Gotcha ill stay at 8 GB of RAM 16 seems extremely overkill
None of my systems have less than 16 GB
Dat sweet sweet cache
@broken grail although a raspi is a popular option for home assistant it’s far from the best. These days a lot of us use a mini pc, used laptop, nuc, vm or docker container on server, etc
what would be the best then? I was about to order a raspberry pi :/
but my question was really related to 3rd party recommended hardware, like lights, thermostat, eetc.. and if there was a supported devices list
Or a new gen celeron mini pc on Amazon or wherever
Usually spending $150-200
If you want to go cheap then you can get a thin client like a dell wyze 5070 for around $50 used on eBay
so a better option would be just to buy a home server? not really looking for cheap
There are some community made sites like blakadders but not exactly
if you can find a mini PC with like N5105 or 6005 those are great, pretty less on power to run 24x7 and quite powerful to run not just HA, bit pfsense and bunch of other things on proxmox
6500t you mean ?
For a lot of stuff first you need to figure out what protocol you want to use
Zigbee, zwave, Wi-Fi
No N6005
Celeron I guess
if you have old computer (can be really old) running at home, use that.
any recommendations on where to read about the differences on these?
i can buy something new, I was going to do raspberry pi but if thats not really able to support a full sytem i can buy something bigger
I'd rather just buy something once and not replace it wit something beefier later
i made a video on it last year https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mq28d3P-png otherwise i'd just suggest explaining what you want here and let us help
i5-6500t or better if buying used
I would suggest but the PC / miniPC install HA first and get a feel for it. then but a Sonoff Zigbee Dongle. This will set you up for zigbee
you cant go wrong with a newer nuc if you just want to throw money at it. otherwise the used lenovo m910q on ebay for $200ish are a good bet
the thing is I'm not really sure, I guess I'd want to start with media center, lights, thermostat, preferably voice controlled.
nuc?
voice control is added with home assistant
regardless of whether a device says it supports it
so I'd have to buy the smart equipment and not sure what the difference is or whats better
watching your video now
thermostat ecobee is a popular choice and it uses wifi and cloud but can also be setup to use the homekit protocol for local only control
The RPI in current times with current price is ridiculous - if you can buy from Aliexpress check on mini PCs like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004225099067.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.53.63576f03zqQ1pn&algo_pvid=a3125045-eb2d-48ed-b118-007bbf07ab54&algo_exp_id=a3125045-eb2d-48ed-b118-007bbf07ab54-26&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000030136278152"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!SGD!282.84!197.99!!!!!%40211bd7d616798716441133656d0718!12000030136278152!sea!SG!0&curPageLogUid=Yq7bwP8Oorkk
or buy the 1L PC from Dell, HP whichever is cheaper in your area rather than waiting for Aliexpress and anxiety about the quality
are you planning on installing home assistant OS or using virtualization/hypervisor OS and then running home assistant inside it?
how comfortable are you with technology and servers and such?
overkill to start with, but the rabbit hole you are getting into, it might feel less powerful year down the line 🙂 It all depends. but I run k8s and lot of pods. But yes, as above stated, you should be really comfortable with technology and linux in particular
You run k8s for home automation stuff?
yes, why not, just that HA is not cluster ready yet. so just run 1 replica
what benefit do you get from it other than restarting containers that fail?
but it is the ecosystem, like mqtt, and hundreds of other containers that come in handy for various purposes. So not just home automation
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-NUC11ATKC4-Atlas-Canyon-Celeron/dp/B0B4SL1S1X i'd buy something like this over a no name nuc knockoff for that price
not necessarily that exact model just a link
-> System Info