#hardware-archived

1 messages ยท Page 12 of 1

static horizon
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Whoops. Can't beat the price I meant

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(autocorrect)

zealous dune
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cause they're awesome

static horizon
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Good to know. I may grab a few.

bright seal
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why are they rectangular? >.<

zealous dune
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do you have round switches?

static horizon
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I guess these don't work as dimmer switches? Is there an equivalent for a dimmer?

zealous dune
bright seal
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ewww, are rectangles standard in US for light switches?

zealous dune
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depends

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you have rectangles in EU as well

bright seal
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they look so "wrong" after whole life spent with squares

winged knoll
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Technically the squares are also rectangles ๐Ÿ˜›

bright seal
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argh!

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MY WHOLE LIFE HAS BEEN A LIE!

zealous dune
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i though they had oval switches or something

gloomy elbow
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Technically UK switches are rectangles, they're just in a square faceplate

zealous dune
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but you have rectangles in EU all over the place especially when you join two or three switches

bright seal
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hah, I was thinking bout single segment being square

zealous dune
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but then you have modular switches

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where a segment is true rectangle

bright seal
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ya, a frame with bunch of square holes

zealous dune
bright seal
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I have never saw most of those abominations in my entire life

zealous dune
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there's no real true standard, just stuff that's popular

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modular switches are actually amazing since you can line up like 6 of them taking up less space than 3 normal ones

bright seal
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unnatural! ๐Ÿ˜„

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would probably be a tad problematic when repurposing junction box made in pair with frames with borders

zealous dune
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nothing some impact drilling, masonry and paintwork can't fix

pure rivet
zealous dune
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sooo, most people in here ๐Ÿ˜„

pure rivet
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I hope it supports yaml configuration /j

entities:
  - entity: hall_light_switch
  - port: ethernet
unique lantern
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I don't have those specifically, but I have a few of their smart plugs and they work great.

bright seal
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those Tasmota thingies runs on normal WiFi?

unique lantern
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Yup

terse condor
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I got a Sonoff ZBmini-l in one of my light switches, but the damn thing keeps becoming unavailable after a few days. Is that a known issue? It's tied to a Home Assistant Yellow and all other Zigbee devices seem happy

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It'd be less of a problem if getting to it didn't require unscrewing the whole light switch faceplate and assembly

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The logbook just shows "XYZ Zha Event was fired" followed by "XYZ identify became unavailable", "XYZ Start-up behavior became unavailable" etc

hoary lynx
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hi! i have a nsPanel and I gave up on making it work with Ha devices.
the thermostat feature can't turn on my AC, and the rgb feature can't talk to my shelly rgb2, everytime i google anything. i get the nspanelPro or the espHome flashing guide.
It does control the sonoff switchman m5 thats 6 feet away. which is nice. i guess.

does anybody know if there is any documentation on making this stupid thing useful?
basically its best festure is the cloud Gif it shows when its cloudy.

zealous dune
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You flash it with Tasmota or esphome

hoary lynx
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lol. roger.

the nspanel instructions even says it can control rgb devices -from- Ha
was that made up?
:sad_panda:
shame on sonoff

zealous dune
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The HA control with nspanel requires their weird add-on and whatnot

unique lantern
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Does anybody have recommendations for smart blinds or roller shades, ideally Zigbee, other than IKEA? I bought 2 of the TREDANSEN yesterday and 1 was dead on arrival. I found out that at least here in the US, IKEA no longer offers any sort of warranty for these (used to have a 5 year warranty) which makes me wary of doing an exchange on the dead one and keeping them. Preferably looking for something in the same ballpark price wise, ~$170 though I'd be willing to spend more if there's something with a reasonable warranty

zealous dune
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Thirdreality has US based blinds

unique lantern
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I did come across those and I like that they use AA batteries rather than some of the other Chinese brands that have non-replaceable lithium ion batteries. My main concern with any of them though is that they, like IKEA, generally have no warranty

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I'd hate to drop over $300 on blinds only to have them crap out 6 months later with no recourse

drifting grove
zealous dune
keen flame
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Anyone looking for good wifi speakers, Ikea's SYMFONISK are on sale right now. ๐Ÿ™‚

terse condor
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Oh hey @keen flame, long time no see

keen flame
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Hey buddy ๐Ÿ™‚ I haven't been doing too much due to lack of tech availability

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But I found a guy who comes down to Mexico once a month and will bring some stuff in his bag so I'm back on the scene!

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First on my list are those nice speakers. ๐Ÿ™‚ Two pack for $200, that's what a single Sonos speaker costs here.

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@terse condor Got any other hardware ideas, things that I should pick up that're good to have?

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So far it's just the speakers, a Withings sleep monitor, and an Aeotec Z-stick 5+

teal pendant
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Hi guys, can someone help me connecting a second SHELLY EM to my system?
I'm using native integration; the first SHELLY is in local, in the same lan of HA, and works fine, the second is remote in another building, connected to shelly cloud.
Is MQTT the only way to get data from the remote SHELLY EM or can I connect from the integration? ( the integration ask me "host: ?" but I don't know what I have to answer with this remote device )

weary gulch
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Has anyone come across an american (thermistor input, GFCI, resistive load) floor heating controller that works with ESPHome?

terse condor
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One thing I found quite useful was an Emporia Vue 2 for energy monitoring. Both absolute use as well as per device use (or rather, per circuit). Can be flashed with ESPhome to run local only, if you are okay with soldering ๐Ÿ˜„

keen flame
terse condor
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Yeah probably doesn't hurt to have at hand. That's what makes HASS so great imho, that it can integrate all of that stuff under one umbrella

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Main reason I went Zigbee was because I bought a home assistant yellow box and it comes with a built-in Zigbee radio

keen flame
keen flame
frozen tundra
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Should I use a 128 M.2 SATA or a 256 M.2 SATA ? To run HA core with some add-ons?

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Broker , node red, zigbee2mqtt not and my P1 energy monitor

weary gulch
glossy prism
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32GB is the recommended minimum storage

gloomy elbow
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I personally always pick more storage space if I can. You rarely regret having space for data, but you always regret not being able to save something you need

frozen tundra
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Im currently running HA in docker. Now I'm building a standalone system for HA core is there a easy way to copy settings or is it better to start fresh over ?

glossy prism
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You can copy everything in /config (including hidden files) over to the new system

frozen tundra
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Do you know a how-to ?

glossy prism
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Oh actually if you're running a new enough version of HA and have the backup integration set up, it should be as simple as making a backup within HA and restoring it on the new host

frozen tundra
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I'll try that thanks ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป

tacit burrow
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If you're building a standalone system, why not use HAOS? So much easier.

zealous dune
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Allegedly....

craggy helm
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Any recommendations on UL/ETL listed smart plugs?

fading python
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anyone got some experience with cy7c65213a usb-uart chip on home assistant os? its in a ir-read-write unit i want to use to read out a meter. its starting to look like it wont work, but debugging is a bit messy. readouts on a windows laptop are fine, but getting x7f values on home assistant os using the same python script (even run directly from the os terminal)

pastel trout
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Also they are Zigbee, and already have a matter version on the way.

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I am just waiting for the Matter version to be released before I order another 20 blinds, that will be hardwired into my 240v system (Without battery)

zealous dune
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how's the warranty on those ๐Ÿ˜„

finite quail
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hey all.... does anyone know a tutorial for beginners in how to install rassphy on a ESP32 Autiokit. Itยดs my first time playing with an ESP32 at all.

drifting grove
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whats an acceptable threshold for a rpi cpu idle temp?

gentle fossil
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depends on the pi

unique lantern
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My HAOS pi4 runs at about 40ยฐC with a heatsink and 3.3V fan on it

ashen turtle
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hello all, please tell me how to add an external flash memory or ssd disk to the system?

unique lantern
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On HAOS?

ashen turtle
unique lantern
ashen turtle
unique lantern
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HAOS is pretty much designed to be an appliance, so doing something more complicated than just relocating the data disk I think would require switching to another install method

ashen turtle
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thank you so much, I figured it out

pine oasis
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i am missing firmware files for my ethernet chips to work

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running haos on X86 platform

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is there a way to integrate the fw files into /lib/firmware?

coral solstice
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Can anyone recommend a good/decent indoor AQI sensor that isn't too pricey? Either zwave or zigbee would work as I use both in the house.

keen flame
glossy pollen
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New to Home Assistant (HA). Just install V 2022.12.8. I have an Odroid N2+ and KKSB_N2_case with fan. How do I configure the fan to run? I see no mention in any Odroid documents and none in HA. Thank you in advance for your help.

terse condor
keen flame
terse condor
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Oh, apparently they just moved altogether now

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FWIW, to flash it, I had to run the flashing tool like this from the ESPHome binary folder. It just failed otherwise:
esptool --before default_reset --after hard_reset --baud 460800 --chip esp32 write_flash -z --flash_size detect 0x10000 firmware.bin 0x1000 bootloader.bin 0x8000 partitions.bin 0xd000 ota_data_initial.bin

unique lantern
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You don't even necessarily have to solder it if you can find a way to hold a header against the through-holes

terse condor
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Unless you are gifted with more hands and arms than the normal person, that might be quite tough

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But yeah, the most annoying part is that the vias are filled with solder by default. But you don't even need to remove that, just melt it and jam a jumper cable in there

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(Or clean it up and solder a header on it, either works. But since ESPhome does OTA updates, chances are you won't have to touch it again)

unique lantern
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Could always use a helping hands station to hold the header on there I suppose. If you soldered 20 years ago though, you could probably handle attaching headers

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Just gotta check that you don't create any bridges before powering it on

terse condor
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Yeah, it's really simple and there is plenty of space around the area to not fry anything by accident. Helping hands could work, the big problem I think is maintaining good contact for the 30 or so seconds it takes to flash

unique lantern
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I was just watching a video of somebody flashing one and it looks fairly straightforward even for me, and I've only had a little bit of experience soldering. I'll probably end up picking one up because I've been looking for a power monitoring solution and the Shelly EM crossed my radar, but it's pretty expensive for only monitoring 1 circuit

terse condor
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Open your fuse box up first and make sure you got space for it

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That was the first problem I ran into

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And I was too much of a chicken to route the 120v cable out of there and void my home insurance ๐Ÿ˜‚

unique lantern
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Yeah I still have to open up the panel and see what kind of space there is, but it looks like a solid solution otherwise

terse condor
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Yeah, I'm quite happy with it. Especially since it can be made to run locally

unique lantern
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I feel like a Shelly EM in a giant metal box would have trouble connecting to wifi, vs. the external antenna on the Vue

half sentinel
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odroid n2+ with sd to emmc, 128gb emmc orange looking linux one is what i want right? any other recommendations?

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Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 as addon?

keen flame
terse condor
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After leaving us to rot up here

drifting grove
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Hi, I need to power my SSD with some external power source, but I don't have a powered usb hub available. Is it possible to feed power to a usb hub via one of the usb ports (connected to a phone charger for example), connect the SSD to the hub, and the hub to HA - and get the SSD to draw power from the external source?

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Raspberry/HAOS
^
SSD in -> H -<
Power in -> U --^
B

Like so, lol

gentle fossil
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what in the fresh bananas

drifting grove
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Seriously though, can you provide power to an ssd this way?

tacit burrow
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Try it. Worst case / not enough power

sage sigil
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Has anyone had any luck with adding in HD anywhere kit. Found a few posts online but not had any luck - im getting the below error: Invalid config for [sensor.rest]: must contain at least one of resource, resource_template.. Got OrderedDict([('platform', 'rest'), ('sensors', OrderedDict([('unique_id', 'hdanywherepower'), ('name', 'hdanywhere power'), ('resource', 'http://192.168.0.34/api/data/0/ '), ('value_template', 'โ€œ{{ value_json.data.power }}โ€')]))]). (See ?, line ?).

warped steeple
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I am deabating regarding what to get for RF interface, looking online there are few options:

  • sonoff bridge with a hack
  • ESP rflink32
  • Arduino rflink
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I feel like esp rflink32 might be the smallest and cheaper option to go for

merry fulcrum
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Hello. Did anyone buy from athom.tech site to EU? Do they include VAT in their price? They seem to offer better prices compared to their Aliexpress store.

tired forge
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Is there anyone who has experience with the Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus ZBDongle-E . I read on the zigbee2mqtt site it is experimental... Is it working (stable) for anyone?

winged knoll
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And the answer is it's experimental you're going to run into random issues

tired forge
gusty sequoia
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This is possibly silly, but does anyone know of a small device that could serve as a smart plug, but for USB? That is, I'd like to stick this between a USB power source and something powered off of it to allow me to force a reboot. Using a regular AC smart plug isn't an option in this case.

unique lantern
dry tartan
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I'm looking for an ESP8266 / ESP32 for usage with a battery/deep sleep. Can someone recommend a model that has really low power consumption? I intend to wake it using GPIO

gusty sequoia
drifting grove
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Hi All

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I have question: Kaisai heat pump and remote module, so my modbus rs is used by this module and i want to

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"sniffing" data from slave ( HP) any idea ?

gloomy elbow
glossy prism
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Passmark of at least 1000 seems to be the unofficial recommendation

gloomy elbow
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Theoretically a Pi 3b is fine. Personally I'd not consider that enough

glossy prism
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I used a 3B+ for a little over a year. It was fine, but reloading automations took like 10 seconds ๐Ÿคฃ

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HA restarts were 60+ seconds

gloomy elbow
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Yes, when you restart HA and worry that it's not coming back you know your hardware is underpowered ๐Ÿ˜›

gentle fossil
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I dream of the pi5 in these > 300 seconds

unique lantern
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Yeah the 3B+ is mostly fine, but reboots are painfully slow

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Made a huge difference going to the pi4

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Plus once you have various addons running, that 1GB of RAM is too tight

gloomy elbow
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I'll go with "probably not going to work well enough"

unique lantern
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If it's a machine you already have, there's no harm in giving it a try. Worst that happens is it's slow

night zenith
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Hey guys, I'm planning on purchasing the Philips Hue Play Smart Light Bars. But do I need the Philips Hue Bridge if I already have Zigbee2MQTT running via a sonoff zigbee 3.0 dongle?

glossy prism
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Nope

drifting hazel
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Hey guys, Iโ€™m new to posting a question. I have converted my HA to an old laptop (x486). Itโ€™s much better than my pi3b.

I want to monitor my laptop battery through HA and send a notification to my phone.

I have found several files in Linux that give me charging status, and another that gives the battery voltage. I am not a Linux guy, I donโ€™t know if I need to GET or PUSH or something else.

I want to do this cause the laptop adaptor plug shook out and the laptop went down.

I can provide more details if needed. I did a โ€œplatform โ€œ that shows cpu usage and memory usage but it donโ€™t do the battery/charging. Any help would be awesome.

gloomy elbow
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What install are you running?

tacit burrow
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To repeat Rosemary's question @drifting hazel which install are you running? HAOS? Debian? Other?

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Are you running it natively, or via virtualisation?

drowsy oriole
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Getting ready to install switches in my new house. Going to be over 30ish. I like the Lutron Caseta Claro, but they are pretty steep in price. I see so many recommendations for them. My automation will be mostly light based. My wifi should be really good with Omada and 3 WAPs.

What about Zooz?

fringe crater
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You don't want dimmers?

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I really like zooz personally, but I would kill for that physical dimmer slider on the Lutron. Hold-to-dim is such a miserable UI and my family will never stop complaining about it ๐Ÿ˜ญ

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Wifi should be irrelevant for both Lutron and Zooz, they both use other radios.

drowsy oriole
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I think most of my dimming will be done via automation. We have a baby coming (due tomorrow). I need to create automations for night activities, but I don't think I'll require much dimming done by physically dimming the room.

fringe crater
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Ok but I thought the Claro is on/off only, it doesn't list dimming in the details.

drowsy oriole
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@fringe crater If I get the Claros up and running, I won't be able to dim them via HA automation?

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I'm a total newbie. I was under the impression that most switches could dim dumb lights.

fringe crater
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No, you need a dimmer switch.

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You want the Lutron Diva. The Claro is on-off only.

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Dimmers are more expensive circuitry-wise, and many loads are non dimmable, so not every switch has the capability.

drowsy oriole
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Well that's even more expensive, then. Do you think the Zooz dimmers are pretty reliable?

fringe crater
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I use them and am happy with them, and many people I know say the same. Rarely ever hear a bad word about zooz. Features/$ can't be beat.

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But make sure you get the dimmer ones, zooz again have dimming and non-dimming version.

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They are a little picky about the brand of LED bulbs they will work with though, so just read the specs closely before purchasing.

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And you'll have to plan out how you will wire up your 3-ways.

drowsy oriole
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The Claros have a "brightness" attribute. Could you not set that to 50% for dimming?

fringe crater
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Where do you see that? Link?

drowsy oriole
fringe crater
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Yeah but that doesn't mention claro specifically.

drowsy oriole
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Damn, you are right. Is there any way to see all of the attributes for a specific piece of hardware?

If I can't dim them, I'm definitely going with Zooz.

gloomy spoke
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That's just a matter of researching the devices

boreal oar
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im mostly zooz for dimmers and on/off switches. I think they're one of the best options available

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very price competitive too

ionic gorge
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Yo everyone, does anyone recall any small zigbee/ble proximity sensor with range up to 10cm? (no more than that). I need to wake wall mounted tablets by waving hand close to the sensor.

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unfortunately tablet doesn't have such sensor

upbeat yoke
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Gu10 - are there any gu10 bulb which does from warm white to cool white and dimmable, colors are bonus. I don't need any technology either as I will put all 16 in chandelier, so I will have 1 dimmer controlling them.

light osprey
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US mount but probably EU or UK versions there

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Look for hand wave switch or proximity sensor switch

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@ionic gorge, and nice name.

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โ‚ฌ 1,52 20%OFF | 5A DC 3.7V-24V Hand Sweep Sensor Switch Kitchen Under Cabinet Wardrobe LED Lights Accessories Hand Wave Control Switch for Strip
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGT27Xp another one but for DIY

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Not sure how to integrate with a tablet

mortal spire
mortal spire
drifting hazel
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Rosemary and lyricnz, sorry for not replying, I was wrapped up in Christmas Stuff, and only saw your replies now.

I am running hassio on a Lenova Thinkpad.

I am a newbie with Linuxโ€ฆbut I did find some interesting values at /config/sys/class/power_supply/ BAT1 /status and voltage_nowโ€ฆ..that would work great.

Like I said before, I just donโ€™t know how to make a Entities out of that information.

Thanks in advance for any help you offer.

upbeat yoke
drowsy oriole
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@mortal spire Does the Plus 1 UL work for dimming? It actually might be a better idea for me since I've got quite a few fans too. Just use Leviton rocker/dimmer where needed with a Shelly relay behind. They integrate into HA well? I'm a total newbie who is still in the design phase. Thanks for answering my question.

ionic gorge
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@light osprey thanks, but meh. It's too big

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I'll check the DIY one

mortal spire
mortal spire
upbeat yoke
mortal spire
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The warmglow ones are brand new over here. ( Basically live next to Philips) So i think it will be a matter of time they will hit the US and evolve into a wide K range. I like that their are making dumb lights that can change temperature.

rigid gyro
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hello guys, I have an old electronic door lock thats running on 12v, do you know of any smart switches that run on 12v? If it can be mounted on a DIN that would be even better

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the closest ive come is shelly, using it to turn on/off the feed to the 12v transformer. but i would prefer a 12v switch so the transformer could be active at all time, and have a small preferance for Zigbee, No idea why ๐Ÿ™‚

gloomy spoke
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What exactly are you planning to use the switch to control?

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Turning the transformer on and off is essentially equivalent to controlling the 12v supply to the lock via a relay, but I doubt that's really what you want

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Do you really want to turn power on and off to the lock?

rigid gyro
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I would want to basically use it as a switch to open the door. So I would like to have power on it but be able to turn on the switch and unlock it.

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I can achieve it by turning on the supply and feed it a open signal at the same time. But like I say I would prefer do the switching on 12v level than 230v

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The lock is old so it functions with a key without any supply. It's an old security door lock in the house I bought, but the old security system was removed. It was all hardwired

gloomy spoke
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So you just want a relay that can switch 12v? That's pretty common

rigid gyro
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DIN mounted too ?

gloomy spoke
rigid gyro
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Isn't that one 230v ? Handles up too 16A or can I feed it 12v and it gives 12v out?

gloomy spoke
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It appears to be a relay, but there's a part number for research

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You power relays, and they switch a load for you

rigid gyro
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Ok thanks for your trouble ๐Ÿ™‚

drifting grove
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Hey there, is it okay to ask for homematic Hardware help here? I need a help for selection of hardware to buy as replacement for the access point

winged knoll
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You can certainly ask

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There's not a lot of HomeMatic users in HA though, so you may not get a lot of responses

drifting grove
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Hmpf. But it is worth a try ๐Ÿ˜‰

I got an HMIP-HAP (Hoemmatic IP Access Point) and I'd like to replace it with a CCU as I read, that I would get more information of my devices, more options and better integration in HA.
I already read about the modules for raspi with raspmatic. But all those modules are for raspi 3 and are CCU2 like. I got a Raspi4 and would like to have a "CCU3". But all the modules officially are not compatible to Raspi4. So I wondered if the USB Stick is a good alternative to use of on my lenovo think centre as it has more power also.
But as I am new to this topic I am completely insecure about that.

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So can you suggest me if USB + rhinkcentere is a good choice (directly installing raspmatic on arch) or can I use one of those modules in raspi4 oder is the HAP enough for HomeAssistant anyway?

drifting grove
winged knoll
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No

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I can make some educated guesses though

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Number one is that HA is used by people all over the world, and Homematic ... isn't

drifting grove
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๐Ÿ˜‚

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But support is actively developed, right?

winged knoll
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What support?

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Support for Homematic in HA?

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You can also check the issues to see how often they get closed and fixed, vs closed as abandoned

drifting grove
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3days ago. 1 open issue. Looks good ๐Ÿ˜„

solar goblet
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what is needed for a solution with raspmatic? I only need a raspberrypi 3 or can i install it on a debian server where HA is running on it?

drifting grove
solar goblet
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thx

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can i pm you ISeeWaynes?

drifting grove
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Sure, but I think that it won't help you as I found that by accident๐Ÿ˜‚

terse pebble
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Has anyone integrated an Oral-B IO Series 10 successfully yet?

glossy prism
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P is good for either ZHA or zigbee2mqtt. E is a good choice for ZHA but not a great choice for z2m because it only has experimental support in z2m

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Smh my head

thin flame
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So I've gotten 2 Nedis SmartLife Air Quality Sensors...
https://nedis.com/en-us/product/home-living/climate/thermometers/550768043/smartlife-air-quality-monitor-wi-fi-humidity-temperature-volatile-organic-compounds-voc-android-ios-white
They're probably just some rebranded generic tuya thing from china.
Temperature and humidity seems to work fine on it, but i have no idea if it's showing humidity in relative or absolute humidity (how do i find out)
co2, voc and formaldehyde are all static pretty much with co2 at 368 ppm and both the others at 0/0.01 ppm, not sure how useful these sensors actually are.
From reading some of these sensors don't have an actual co2 sensor in them, but is just infering co2 from the voc sensor?

errant minnow
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What's the best LED ribbon/tape/whatever it's called that integrates well into HA?

gloomy elbow
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Are you looking for an (F)COB LED strip? Something that looks like a continuous string of lights?

errant minnow
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Well my wife got me a sign that has the LED strip on the back to give a backlit effect. I can't seem to paste an image in here to illustrate. However, the strips on the back are in several pieces, all soldered together.

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I hope that helps?

unique lantern
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What's your end goal?

errant minnow
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The exact same visual effect, but I can choose the colors and control it via HA.

gloomy elbow
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I'd look at the controller and see if you can replace it.

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It's highly likely you can.

unique lantern
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Those look like off the shelf single color 12V cuttable LED strips

errant minnow
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I have to confess my LED-ignorance here, but are you saying that by swapping the controller that the additional colors might already be available? Because I would have thought they were just single color...

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And I'm not really seeing a "controller" unless I'm looking at the wrong thing?

unique lantern
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There's only 2 conductors and no controller on there that I can see, it's just a 12V power supply going straight into the strip

errant minnow
#

That's what I thought but again - LED ignorant. ๐Ÿ™‚

unique lantern
#

If you want to change colors and such, you'd want to find RGB cuttable LED strips (basically any brand), find an RGB LED controller with the type of control you're looking for (WiFi, Zigbee, Zwave, etc) and replace all the strips. For that specific item, the minimum cut length would be important. You'll see LED strip tapes that will be cuttable every 4 inches, etc. The shorter the length the better for the best coverage of the circle

gloomy elbow
#

It looked like it was doing red and orange from the images, so I assumed it was RGB

errant minnow
#

I have WiFi, Zigbee, and Z-Wave. Are any of those better than any other for what I'm looking to do?

#

I'd prefer to stick to Zigbee or Z-Wave if possible, but I couldn't tell you why if you asked.

unique lantern
#

Some things to think about, RGB lights tend to come in pure RGB, RGBW, RGBCW, and a few other types. You'll first need to pick what you're looking for in terms of colors. Pure RGB can only do red/green/blue and attempting to make white light will usually look a little weird. The ones with W in them have varying numbers of white LEDs, e.g. a RGBCW light will typically have red, green, blue, warm white, and cool white LEDs so you can mix them to get a specific color temperature. The strips and controller you get would need to match your expectations there

errant minnow
#

I don't think I'm too worried about white, but I don't have an issue with future-proofing it. Can you recommend a particular brand to dig into so I can start seeing what my options are? For both the LEDs and the controller?

unique lantern
#

superbrightleds.com has good quality LED tape lights that I have been using for a few years now. They're just single color white LEDs though so so I don't have recommendations on an RGB controller

errant minnow
#

And not all of them can be cut, right? I need to verify that specifically with whatever I choose?

unique lantern
errant minnow
#

Boy it doesn't get much more straightforward than that.

unique lantern
#

You will need to do some soldering though since the tapes are usually not very bendable side-to-side and as you showed in the pic they cut and soldered in a bunch of spots to get some of those turns

errant minnow
#

Yeah, ironically enough I have some REALLY decent soldering equipment but am not great at using it as I've never really needed to. Time to learn, I suppose. ๐Ÿ™‚

gloomy elbow
#

You can also get extension wires/clips for most LED strips which are cheap and easy to come by (e.g. Amazon). That may save you some soldering ๐Ÿ™‚

unique lantern
#

ah yeah I forgot about those, good point

errant minnow
#

Hey, anything that facilitates my laziness is alright in my book! ๐Ÿ™‚

#

Is there a downside to using them? Less durable or something?

gloomy elbow
#

Not really? If you over extend the strip you may need more power, but you'd have to be adding a lot of length for that to happen

unique lantern
#

Most bulk LED tape will give a max length you can extend to. If you go too far, the voltage drop across the strip will result in the LEDs farther from the power supply being considerably dimmer than the ones closer to it

#

For the size of what you're doing though, I don't think that's really a concern

tacit depot
#

hey, I've got a Lidl (Silvercrest) zigbee gateway, it connects to Tuya app. Can I use it for any Zigbee device?

#

I want to get some cheap smart led strip and I was wondering what should I look for... A lot of pretty unknown and seemingly propietary devices when looking for low prices

#

(I do have tuya already connected to my Home Assistant btw)

zealous dune
#

Not with the original firmware

#

But some non tuya devices will work with the Zigbee gateway

thin flame
#

I've had a Hue Hub and 2 other hubs before... And none of them would take everything. That stick does.

#

Like the hue hub refused to pair my cheapo ikea switches, the other hubs even failed at some of the bulbs, or just dropped connection to stuff randomly

#

So I spent the little bit of money on the stick and never looked back, it's "just worked" for about half a year now.

zealous dune
#

You can hack the Lidl gateway to work universally too

thin egret
#

You can even build an Amblight for you TV using this setup

#

It is also very well integrated into HA

strange garden
#

Does anyone have a 1-wire thermometer connected to their raspberry pi, running HAOS? i am using the integration from hacs, but cannot enable 1-wire due to write-only filesystem

drifting grove
#

Hi all,
Intel NUC Celeron N3350 Dual-core 1.10 GHz, 4 GB RAM, 64 GB eMMC should be more than enough to run HAOS with setup of 10-12 Shelly devices, one thermostat, and one air condition integration?
When installed, that setup will be permanent and it would not be changed or updated anymore.

zealous dune
#

Yes

lofty socket
#

Can anyone recommend motion sensors that work outdoors? I'm considering getting some cheap ZigBee ones and trying to waterproof them

thin flame
#

Any IP rated outdoor one paired with a shelly 1 or similar on the switch pin

#

Like regular dumb sensor, then connect it to shelly

past ivy
#

Hey, im searching a good zigbee coordinator. Ive already tried the conbee but the wlan inferrence is just to bad. I wasnt able to get anything working. (Not even with Like 1m of distance between coordinator and moes curtain Switch).

Im from DE and ive read that a USB based one is better. I want to use zigbee2mqtt.

#

Since the curtain Switch didnt worked i returned it. (Thought it might be a faulty device). I have no zigbee device but I plan to get some sonoff zigbee Mini switches. To hopefully get more/better range soon'ish

dry escarp
#

I am currently using the sonoff usb 3.0 zigbee dongle and have had no problem with zigbee2mqtt, but I don't know if the inferrence issue would be solved by getting it

past ivy
#

The conbee was claimed to be far worse than any USB based one

#

Is there a newer version of the sonoff one?

#

And im using a raspberrypi 3+ with eveything in docker Mode
(Since I wanted to Run my piHole there as Well)

dry escarp
past ivy
#

Yeah. Zigbee2mqtt suggest the CC2652

#

I will Just order the Same and will Test it! Thanks!

gloomy elbow
#

I have the Sonoff Plus as mentioned in the pinned posts, it works exceptionally well with Zigbee2MQTT

lofty socket
#

The sonoff 3.0 usb dongle works well

ruby harbor
#

I am trying to figure out what I would need to set up a cheap camera. I am guessing a ESP32 based camera would be best? Is there a premade case for a ESP32 camera?

lofty socket
#

Although I'm also using a conbee 2 with no issues

ruby harbor
#

Do these cameras actually have a video feed or is it a series of images?

#

I was thinking of getting a PoE switch to power the cameras. Then use a Pi4 connecting to a hard drive to store the footage or should I use a SSD card on the Pi4 instead?

ruby harbor
#

Can I connect a camera directly up to a UEXT connector without needing another board?

gloomy elbow
agile olive
#

I have a ESP Muse luxe bluetooth speaker. I have this question for a long time. I can't get HM to detected the speaker and the audio. I wanted to try it with Rhasspy. Is this even possible

#

?

jagged crypt
chilly zodiac
#

Anyone have a suggestion for under cabinet lighting that I'd end up having to splice directly into the romex? Anything else would involve way too much tearing apart walls.

gloomy elbow
#

I got some USB powered COB lights and connected them to Sonoff USB switches.

chilly zodiac
#

Well, I'm thinking something that's meant to be mains powered and can be directly connected rather than having to have some sort of transformer inline

gloomy elbow
#

Well you can get mains powered LED strips easily enough

#

Go for something with a #zigbee-archived controller (or replace the controller with say a Gledopto one), and voilร .

chilly zodiac
#

Well, Zigbee is what I'm going for. I was just thinking there might be some recommendations.

gloomy elbow
#

Gledopto controllers for sure.

#

Hue lights are always good quality, but pricy

chilly zodiac
#

Well, dont those usually involve an external power supply?

gloomy elbow
#

Well they're mains powered, which is plugged into the wall

gloomy spoke
#

USB is backward compatible. It won't be a problem

glossy prism
#

Where do you see that it's USB 3.0? There would be no point for it to have USB 3.0 since it doesn't even get close to a fraction of the limits of USB 2.0

gloomy spoke
#

Those are broken devices. Perhaps you're talking about the Aeotec Zwave controller?

glossy prism
#

also, fear not: i confirmed that my Sonoff 3.0 Dongle Plus-P is USB 2.0

Bus 001 Device 006: ID 10c4:ea60 Silicon Labs CP210x UART Bridge
...
bcdUSB               2.00
drifting grove
#

Is it worth getting a managed switch, aggregating two ports from my router into the switch, and plugging my server into that? Or will that not give me better performance than connecting directly to the router?

#

Would it only matter if the server had multiple ports on the network card and supported aggregation?

glossy prism
#

what are you trying to do?

drifting grove
#

I was just wondering if [Two Aggr. Ports on Router -> Two Aggr. Ports on Managed Switch -> Single Port on Server] would produce any better speed/performance for local network stuff than [Single Port on Router -> Single Port on Server]

#

Because the clients connected to the switch would be sharing the aggregated connection, no? Or is it just overkill without a client that supports aggregation?

unique lantern
#

Unless you're maxing out your gigabit port, it won't really do anything except make things more complicated

drifting grove
#

Got it, thanks

drifting hazel
#

FYI: I found an integration for Linux battery percentage

#
  • platform: linux_battery
#

Seems to work good, I will setup some phone notifications on โ€œsensor.batteryโ€

young vector
#

Does anyone have any ideas to connect my old Bose 5.1 system to my LG TV so I can control the volume through the Shield TV? The Shield remote can control the volume of the TV, depending on what is connected to the TV. The LG TV is a normal "smart" TV with Bluetooth or Wifi. My Bose system has only infrared and I think radio, as input.

#

Ideally, it should also be able to Chromecast and Airplay, so that I can operate the system independently of the TV or Shield.

terse pebble
#

Maybe a Broadlink RMx to control the IR device and some automation magic? But the Shield propably controls the TV via HDMI ARC. ๐Ÿค”

#

An old Chromecast Audio might add audio cast capability to the Bose system, if it has an optical input or a 3.5 mm audio jack.

#

The most low tech solution might be an audio cable from your TV to the Bose system. And keep changing volume on the TV. ๐Ÿค”

young vector
#

i got the TV hooktup over Toslink

#

but the Bose doesn't react to the TV

#

Broadlink RMx you said... let's see

#

i think this is a overkill

#

i got ifrared transceivers, Raspis Zeros or ESP32

#

and a lot other stuff...

#

or i hook up my old Logitech Harmony, that i bought years ago

#

but Logitech took the Support off, i read....

terse pebble
#

Does the Harmony app still work? There is still an HA integration for it, but it needs some settings in the app if I remember correctly.

young vector
slow lark
#

Maybe they are considering making a new line of remotes? Idk

worldly cliff
#

Probably a bit of a niche question. I just moved away from home and want to listen to AM/FM radio from home, but not all stations broadcast online. My parents still live there, so I could (in theory) have a device that I tune to a given station remotely that rebroadcasts the station its tuned to as a media source. Any suggestions?

winged knoll
#

RTL-SDR is a nice hardware dongle for doing many things, including allowing you to "listen" to radio broadcasts

worldly cliff
#

Is there existing software that would send the audio to a given IP?

winged knoll
#

Loads of it, though usually you "listen" to a stream, you don't push

#

I used Icecast and related software when I did it ages ago

worldly cliff
#

Thanks, I'll start reading into these

gloomy elbow
#

Well you'd still have to manually open all the doors, but depending on the weight of your doors and the strength of the springs that's definitely doable.

half sentinel
#

got my odroid n2+ on order, not sure on usb zigbee. Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus v2 or conbee. conbee i here is old.

winged knoll
#

Depends on what you're planning on using ZHA or Zigbee2MQTTT

half sentinel
#

good question. pros n cons?

winged knoll
#

If that's the E version of the Sonoff dongle then use ZHA

#

If that's the P version use either

outer knotBOT
#

There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:

zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended (though the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset), but there are other options including the CC2652 based sticks. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented.

Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively. As of 1.15 has a native UI, and it also uses MQTT for control and configuration. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the recommended option being the [CC2652 based sticks](#zigbee-archived message). If you want to use an EmberZNet stick see this issue. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and adding unsupported devices is also documented.

deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are supported. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).

onyx aspen
#

anyone have a recommendation for a lightweight linux distro to turn a raspberry pi into an HA kiosk?

i have a pi zero and a touchscreen that i wanna tape the pi behind but the pi obviously lacks a lot of power and i feel raspbian may be too heavy

half sentinel
#

leaning towards mqtt

winged knoll
half sentinel
#

cheers. gonna be a fun learning experience i take it

winged knoll
#

Not really, only if you buy the wrong stick

half sentinel
#

ah good.

waxen sparrow
# drifting grove So can you suggest me if USB + rhinkcentere is a good choice (directly installin...

I'm using an RPI4 with HA and the Raspberrymatic Add-On with the HMIP RF-USB Stick. Originally came from IKEA Tradfri and HA AP and wanted "one" system.

It works pretty solid, but all the Homematic Stuff works more like an island inside the Raspberrymatic at the moment. But I'm able to trigger events via Automations and other stuff. My biggest Problem right now is to use the Aqara Temp Sensors to work together with my HMIP TRV's.

unique lantern
raw cosmos
#

Has anyone installed a smart wall switch in a 2-way wiring scenario? (Like a light for stairs) got some questions

fringe crater
ruby harbor
gloomy elbow
#

flips hair
I am brilliant.
blush
Though I take it this is some kind of smart lighting?

drifting grove
#

Seeing some things that suggest I'd be better off with just about anything other than my conbee II. What coordinator is everyone using for zigbee/mqtt?

dry escarp
#

The sonoff zigbee dongle

gloomy elbow
#

Sonoff Plus dongle

#

(E only has experimental support with Zigbee2MQTT)

drifting grove
#

Cool. I have a $25 Amazon card from the holiday that I'll use for it.

quartz shuttle
#

Hey all, currently using GE/Jasco Z-wave dimmers at the house but wondering if there is a wired relay option? I am searching for something like a Shelly or Sonoff but that I could run low voltage (Cat 5/6) to for triggering. Does such a thing exist? Also should add that I am in the US, otherwise I would happily use something like Shelly Pro or Loxone

fringe crater
#

I'm curious if something like that could meet electrical codes. I didn't think they allow for line voltage and low voltage wiring to mix in a box.

quartz shuttle
outer notch
#

What's the going recommendation for combined motion + light sensors? I'm based in the US and currently only have a Philips Hue hub, but open to new protocols ofc.

gloomy elbow
#

While most motion sensors do have light levels built in, I would get separate light sensors as the built in ones usually only update when motion is detected

#

But for both I recommend Aqara ๐Ÿ™‚

marsh hamlet
#

need help with some hardware ideas. my moms house is fully wired for a security system, ALL doors and windows, including interior doors. there are no sensors, just the wires, all ran to a central panel. i have HA running in her home, and am looking for sensors that will work (recessed for doors) and some type of device that will let HA know which ones are open/closed

neon mica
#

I'm trying to find a wired Fire alarm / smoke detector to replace one of our exisiting ones. Thing is, I want to be able to remotely hush it when I'm hooking or something. Does this legally exist?

jagged crypt
jagged crypt
analog narwhal
bright seal
#

Is there some clever trick to turning "traveler" light switches into smart?

zealous dune
#

in-wall relay modules

bright seal
#

blah, I hoped that wouldn't be the answer ๐Ÿ˜„

zealous dune
#

multiple smart switches, one connected to the power output the others communicate with the main switch

bright seal
#

'cos that would pretty much require that on/off from different ends of corridor to be done via events in HA

zealous dune
#

why?

bright seal
#

uhm

#

I have wiring with that two common live lines, and no neutral

zealous dune
#

that limits you severely to in-wall modules

#

not sure what events in HA have to do with those

bright seal
#

I am not aware which module can do that four-state on/off with such limited wiring

zealous dune
#

this wiring?

image.png
bright seal
#

so ye old dumb switches and just in-wall smartie after them?

zealous dune
#

yup, if you have access to the junction box you can even pick something that uses neutral wire

bright seal
#

I played with those grey brick thingies before

zealous dune
#

this new one is miles ahead if you need to control low amperage devices like lights

bright seal
#

oh? how does it differ from those grey tuya bricks?

zealous dune
#

it just works

unique lantern
fair ridge
#

Hey, I have installed an USB bluetooth device and it seems to work well. If I check the diagnostic information, I see that my atc xiamoi ble thermometers are detected. But how I can add they to the HA instance to use them?

unique lantern
#

Did you flash them with the custom firmware?

fair ridge
#

yes, with atc

unique lantern
#

If their advertisement type is set to BTHome, they should just show up in auto discovery

fair ridge
#

hm, I don't know. Seems nothing to be in auto discovery, how can I check if is set to bthome?

#

If I try to add bthome, it says nothing dicovered

unique lantern
#

The BTHome advertisement setting is on the ATC itself, via the Telink flasher page

static horizon
#

Got myself a set of the CloudFree motion switches. They're working fine, but it looks like the motion trigger is backwards. When no one is in the room, it's detected but then when someone walks in, it's flips to no motion. Is there a way to reverse this?

fair ridge
unique lantern
#

I use mine through an ESP32 running ESPHome to listen for advertisements and when I configured it, they were detected almost instantly. I'm not sure if there's additional configuration needed for the USB bluetooth device to get that detecting the BLE advertisements

static horizon
#

Or any other suggestions that are pre-flashed?

fair ridge
unique lantern
#

You can have multiple ESP32s to get better coverage. I have 2 currently setup as BLE proxies to cover both floors

fair ridge
#

yeah, but it is near to my HA host, to I thought a bluetooth usb dongle would be easier

fair ridge
#

I just found out, that there are more than one atc firmeware

unique lantern
#

The pvvx one is the recommended one for BTHome integration

drifting hazel
#

I used the Leviton WIFI Digital Smart Dimmer in two locations in my kitchen (3 way). I recently remodeled the kitchen and was concerned with someday reselling to house with DYI items in the wall.

I used the wired version because I had the 14/3 wire between the locations, BUT leviton make a slick remote switch thatโ€™s identical looking and runs off of two coin cell batteries.

fair ridge
warm pond
#

Is there something to replace the intercom at personal level (to make it smart), without having to change anything on the general one used by the other neighbors?

marsh hamlet
#

any hardware for wired sensors for doors/windows and a control panel that can be managed through HA?

winged knoll
drifting grove
pure thistle
#

Does someone know how to add a Google Nest Hub to HA? I've installed Catt, however using 'catt scan' it doesn't find my Google Nest Hub. I also tried Google Cast Addon and hard typed the IP and device ID, however it doesn't work either.
I do have 2 TP-Link Deco wifi routers, 1 in living room and another upstairs. The Google Nest Hub is connected to the living room router, might that be the reason why it isn't discovered? And how can I fix this?

#

Man, I wasted some time today, 2.5 hours trying to get Enphase integrated and 1.5 hour to get Google Nest Hub integrated. None worked so far XD

#

Could it be that having my HA device on cable and other devices on Wifi, HA not being able to discover them automatically?

unique lantern
#

Wired/wireless shouldn't be an issue unless you're doing something like putting the wireless stuff on a separate VLAN

pure thistle
#

It's weird, I can ping the device when connected to wifi, but turning off wifi and ping over wired I can't.

#

Network I have is like this: ISP Router -> TP-Link Deco living room - meshed with - TP-Link Deco upstairs.
HA is connected wired to the ISP Router. All Devices are connected to the TP-Link Deco living room / upstairs

#

I guess the ISP router network can't ping to the TP-Link Deco network

#

Aah, Deco routers are on Wifi Router mode instead of AP Mode

glossy prism
#

Yep, sounds like a double NAT situation

pure thistle
#

Yes now I can ping the Google Nest Hub

gloomy elbow
#

Yes, but you can also use something like Zigbee binding to make sure that you have buttons.

#

Ideally though you'll resolve the problem of HA going down so that you don't have that problem ๐Ÿ˜‰

frosty field
#

Has anyone ever heard of a door lock (โ€œdead boltโ€) that has local control, or can be flashed with custom firmware to detach them from โ€œcloudโ€ control?

#

Preferably Bluetooth.

unique lantern
#

The ones with ZigBee or Zwave are locally controlled

frosty field
#

I guess that makes sense. Never having used ZigBee or Zwave before, what specific brands/models are like this?

#

I seem to recall kwikset having models with add-on boards?

unique lantern
#

That's going to depend on where you are, budget, etc. Yale in the US has ZigBee locks for example

frosty field
#

Hmm. Iโ€™m familiar with Yale. My current August Pro locks are now owned by Yale, I believe.

#

Come to think of it, they have Zwave or zigbee, but not exclusively.

#

They still have to be setup with a smartphone via bluetooth.

#

Looks like they have Zwave, but not zigbee.

#

Ok. Good night.

lilac nova
#

oh nspanel lovelace ui update ๐Ÿ˜„ nice 1

north fossil
#

anyone around who is familiar with zigbee and door sensors? possibly tuya ones?

winged knoll
north fossil
#

ty

torn dust
#

what should I be looking for when shopping for items?

#

previous purchases just had it in the description somewhere so it was safe :)

unique lantern
#

Those look like they have a speaker and just beep at you

torn dust
#

yeah

#

there's some isp pins im hoping to abuse

unique lantern
civic kraken
#

The same is sold under some other brand names as well for around the same price

torn dust
#

i stumbled upon these moments ago but im looking at approx 10-15 sensors if the girlfriend has her way

#

5 money each is like upper limit haha

#

maybe she just has to accept beeping is all she gets for low budget

civic kraken
#

If you're handy you can probably hijack the beep and use it to trigger a DIY solution

torn dust
#

oh yeah ive not thought of that actually

#

just solder it to something that'll register the signal and expose it to HA

civic kraken
#

Yeah something like that. You won't get the numbers but you still get the warning

torn dust
#

aww no preview

glossy prism
#

|| the mods don't like fun ||

winged knoll
#

Image link expansion is shared with general link expansion, which easily kills channels... sadly

civic kraken
#

fighting the urge to post a mods are asleep gif

#

But Tinkerer never sleeps

winged knoll
#

If I sleep the voices take over... and nobody wants that to happen ||again||

ruby harbor
#

I am thinking about using the ESP32 PoE board with the motion sensor they sale with it. I assume I need some home assist OS to actually read the feed or can I get these to send of a message when they see motion? I have to put this project together quickly all help is appreciated.

civic kraken
#

There are many ways to communicate with HA with a ESP32 board. MQTT, ESPHome etc. Which board are you planning to use and more importantly what firmware is on it?

ruby harbor
#

I was wondering if I need a central board to receive this data or can I have it send off a message from that board.

fiery anchor
#

Hi, guys! I have a question. I have Tuya Temperature & Humidity Sensor WSD500A. Integrated it in HA, works very good, but I want to see sensor's battery level. I add card but it doesn't show battery percentage, only shows word high, middle, low. Is there any chance to change it to percentages? Thanks!

winged knoll
sleek gate
#

Didn't saw it, ty! ๐Ÿ™‚

static horizon
#

We recently moved into a new house and found out that the previous owners seemed to have a legrand Intuity automation system installed. From what I can tell, it's a couple of door sensors, motion sensors, and light switches. It looks like the system has been discontinued, but curious if any of the hardware can be repurposed for use with my HA setup. anyone have any ideas or know what I should look for to see if I can reuse any of this? It also has 2 bridges: an RFLC and a Z-Wave bridge that are both hardwired back to the panel. Doubt these can be used outside of the legrand system but figured I'd mention it anyway.

fringe crater
#

I see some of their stuff advertising "Patented 900MHz communication protocol", sounds like it might be difficult to repurpose with anything else.

static horizon
#

So as far as door sensors or motion sensors, since I've got power to these already, any recommendations for door sensors? Preferably ones that can communicate locally without the cloud?

covert tartan
#

Has anyone rooted a Xiaomi robot vac x10+? I'm kinda tempted

unique lantern
#

If you're intending to put Valetudo on it, that model doesn't seem to be supported

#

I recently bought the Dreame L10 Pro and it's very easy to root as long as you have a UART adapter or some other way to get a serial console on it

drifting grove
#

Hi everyone, I'm new to this so please help a newbie out ๐Ÿ˜„ I'm using Google Home for a while now but found all the good things from Home Assitant. So i did some research to learn about it. Bought a HP Thin Client T520. This is very good for performance but doesn't have WIFI or BLUETOOTH. Is it enough if I attach my T520 to the wifi network through WLAN? (I have a mesh wifi network where I can connect something to with WLAN) Will Home Assistant OS detect Wifi devices when I do it this way? Thanks in advance!
PS: I read HA community, FAQ, documentation and didn't really find an answer...

winged knoll
#

Well, yes, but no, but mostly yes

#

Assuming you've not done some strange VLAN or network segmentation stuff then anything on your WiFi will be accessible to HA connected to a wired network

#

Wired network >>> WiFi anyway

#

Of course, the real question is whether HA has support for those "WiFi devices"...

gloomy elbow
#

Bluetooth has supported/recommended dongles in the docs.

outer knotBOT
drifting grove
drifting grove
winged knoll
#

Just because Google Home supports it doesn't mean HA does

gloomy elbow
#

And Tuya is special (sadly not the good kind)

winged knoll
#

That's ... polite

gloomy elbow
#

Indeed, I added clarification.

winged knoll
#

Tuya's WiFi stuff does mostly work, at least when Tuya's cloud service isn't being shit, or they forgot to support your device, or ...

#

Their Zigbee stuff is even more variable

drifting grove
#

Yes I know but I will search for the good stuff while buying new stuff now.

winged knoll
#

Plus Google for the rest

drifting grove
winged knoll
frozen tundra
#

Okay got my mini pc setup HA core installed. What now ? Currently I'm running my HA in docker on my Nas now I'm switching to a separate system. Can I just copy and past put of my HA on docker to the new system ?

winged knoll
#

Well, copy the config folder over, yes

frozen tundra
#

I can just copy the whole thing over to the new system ?

winged knoll
#

Yes, if you get the whole thing

frozen tundra
#

Even if it's a docker version and now a HA core ?

winged knoll
#

How often do you want me to say yes?

#

HA's config is HA's config, doesn't matter at all how you run HA, the config is the same damn thing

frozen tundra
#

Just want to make sure ๐Ÿคฃ before I'm knee deep in ๐Ÿคฃ

winged knoll
#

Well, given that most people go to Container from Core, I'm sure you'll find a way of making this harder than you needed

frozen tundra
#

I guess so ๐Ÿคฃ need to free up my Nas so that can focus on other things then running HA ๐Ÿคช

winged knoll
#

You can almost certainly still run Docker on that new host

frozen tundra
#

Yeah it's a mini pc celeron so it should be able to ๐Ÿค”

winged knoll
#

You can run Docker on a Pi Zero, if you really want to, so ... yeah

frozen tundra
#

Thought running core was adviced

winged knoll
#

I've no idea where you got that idea from

#

Maybe stop looking in the big bucket marked bad choices?

frozen tundra
#

Your always so blunt Tinkerer ๐Ÿคฃ

gloomy spoke
#

Droppin' Truth Bombs

winged knoll
#

Well, some people don't seem to notice anything less than unsubtle...

#

And some people manage to miss everything as they're so focussed on whatever is in their head

frozen tundra
#

Thought it would be a good idee to run HA core on a stand alone system so I don't need to be looking how to get all the add-ons running in HA

gloomy elbow
frozen tundra
#

Yeah that I know but I don't need to set them up anymore ๐Ÿคฃ

#

Aldo it was a fun process getting it al to work on my Nas

drifting grove
#

My sonoff zigbee plus arrived. I remember having to use the hue bridge to connect my hue bulbs to my conbee II. Will I need to do that again?

#

Looks like hue thief might be my answer

covert tartan
drifting grove
#

I recently added an Intel Ax210 to my Fujitsu s740. The Bluetooth functionality works without any problems, the WiFi-feature does not. If I install other Linux distros WiFi and Bluetooth works flawlessly. Any ideas what to do?

tacit burrow
#

Probably driver. Whatโ€™s an ax210?

#

Googled. Which kernel/operating system are you running?

full hedge
#

Not sure if this is the proper channel but... I stood up HAOS on a Proxmox VM but the USB hardware is not being detected for ZwaveJS configuration. I made sure to add it as shown below. Everything else restored just fine, but Zwave JS won't start.
https://imgur.com/a/GcVepZj

outer knotBOT
drifting grove
#

lyricnz#6247 sorry the intel AX210 is a WiFi Ax and Bluetooth 5.2 module for the M2 socket. I use the generic X86/64 Homeassistant image. Don't know what kernel it uses.

pallid lotus
#

anybody ever use smart light switches such as the no neutral version of the aqara? I'm considering one but always felt a bit "ehh" as I know some folks had various smart switches burn out. Gives me pause as to whether they're put through the same safety hurdles as traditional light switches.

golden oyster
pallid lotus
#

I see an ETL logo (I think) on the product page.

#

I was mostly focused on UL as that was the only one I recall seeing before. I suppose ETL is safety related as well?

golden oyster
#

ETL is another lab that basically does the same testing as UL. The big difference is UL both creates the standards and does the tests. ETL just uses the standards created by UL. In the US, both are recognized by OSHA as valid safety testing labs

#

One thing to know is seeing CE on a device means absolutely nothing valuable for safety

pallid lotus
#

I just see FCC ID, I C, ETL

#

I wish I could find more about this switch and its standing with ETL. It seems missing from manuals, FAQs, etc. Just this little logo on the product page so far and that's it.

golden oyster
pallid lotus
#

Aqara has enough of a foot print in the market that I'm inclined to blindly trust them a bit more than some of the others I've seen available.

#

but ya know, if I'm putting this crap in my walls I want a bit more than totally blind trust, lol.

golden oyster
#

Inovelli made one too but theyโ€™re impossible to find these days

pallid lotus
#

heh, I see ETL listed on the amazon listings as well. I was totally focused on UL alone as that was the only one I was aware of.

#

I might give one of these a shot. Thanks for the info.

golden oyster
#

UL is just more widely known. If you by stuff at any brick and mortar store in the US you probably have a ton of ETL certified electronics and just never noticed

drifting grove
#

I'm looking for a big e-ink screen (to fit in a picture frame) that can be used with an ESP32. Any pointers to good sellers etc?

zealous dune
#

what is big in your world?

drifting grove
#

Ideally 50x70 or 70x100cm, 30x40cm would work as well

hardy rampart
#

Hi, i have a heat pump connected to home assistant so i can control the temperature and fan speed etc. is it possible to get a physical smart thermostat like the nest smart thermostat to use with the heatpump?

gloomy elbow
#

What country are you in and what wiring does the existing thermostat have?

zealous dune
hardy rampart
gloomy elbow
#

If you don't already have a thermostat you'll need to hook into whatever you're currently using to control it.

#

My parents' heat pump in France has a wireless thermostat that works over RF

hardy rampart
#

tahts probably what we have aswell, it can be controlled over wifi and a rf remote

gloomy elbow
#

If it can be controlled over wifi, did you look at what integrations might be available?

hardy rampart
#

it is connected to HA, but the question is if i can connect it to a smart thermostat like the ecobee or nest thermostat

gloomy elbow
#

That really depends. Personally I'd get some #zigbee-archived buttons or an ESP with a small display and some buttons to be a "thermostat". But without being the plumber/electrician who installed your system I cannot say for certain what you can add to it.

warped steeple
#

anybodt had any luck to create a ESP rf sending command to lightwave rf?

winged knoll
warped steeple
#

thanks

static horizon
#

Dumb question. I can't seem to find my FTDI board. Can I flash a device with tasmodo with an ESP board?

winged knoll
#

You also wanted the folks in #diy-archived - or the Tasmota Discord

outer knotBOT
hidden plover
#

Is there a list of hardware that works perfectly and ootb with HA?

winged knoll
#

There are many such lists

Most are outdated, all are incomplete

reef hornet
#

I have a TI LAUNCHXL-CC1352P-2 and LAUNCHXL-CC26X2R1 I'm not using if anyone wants one as a zigbee gateway. I switched over to ZWave. Send me a DM. I'm in Canada but willing to ship to USA or Europe. (Found a msg from Thanasis suggesting this was the best place to share.)

drifting grove
#

Hello, somebody here for help by starting over ssd with a pi3b ?

#

I installed it, write to otp, with a normal usb stick it started, with usb ssd not. Where do i have to look ?

winged knoll
#

Does it have enough power? Did you try a powered USB hub?

drifting grove
#

Its a 2,5A original pi suppply.

winged knoll
#

Which may not be enough

#

Depends on how much power that SSD is drawing

drifting grove
#

It takes 0,2A under load

#

its not the problem.

obsidian root
#

The usb hub within the pi may be the limitation

#

Not the power input

drifting grove
#

But with usb Stick it works`?!

obsidian root
#

Are you using usb3 port ?

drifting grove
#

Its a PI3b

unique lantern
#

A USB stick doesn't use as much power as an SSD

obsidian root
#

My bad

#

There are tons of google informations about booting on hdd/ssd

#

To be honest when I did mine (pi4) i just used a usb hub 2.0 and it worked directly , avoiding hassles

drifting grove
#

I have too, but did not work.

unique lantern
#

From the docs:

Using an USB attached SSD can draw quite some power. For instance on Raspberry Pi 3 the official Raspberry Pi power supply (PSU) only provides 2.5A which can be too tight. Use a more powerful power supply if you experience issues. Alternatively use a powered USB hub. Connect the Hub to one of the USB slots of your Raspberry Pi, and connect the SSD to the Hub. In this setup the power supply of the Hub will power the attached device(s).
drifting grove
#

i just use a ycable and it started working. It seems realy the power supply the problem.

#

or the response time of ssd ?!.....will check.

drifting grove
#

i am not shure. if i connect the ssd parallel to the 5V via y cable and turn on both, it works.

#

If i just do this with a 12A 5,1V supply, and only connect to pi, ...it did not work. It seems that the usb port supply from the pi is limited by current =!

#

?!

#

is it not hard wired to supply ?

#

Means: The pi3b power supply (+ and - ) are hard connected to USB (+ and -) ?! Isnยดt it ?

#

Or does the USB Ports have their own step down/up converter ?

obsidian root
#

Usb have their own supply imo

#

Means the whole usb bus is limited to x mA while your power socket is giving you 2.5A

#

Note that all usb ports on the pi are tied together so the limit applies to all units connected

#

Hence the usual advice to have an usb hub with own power supply and to connect there all what you need including hdd/ssd

drifting grove
#

Thats it. Thank you.......

drifting grove
#

Hi. Iโ€™m new to discord, so if Iโ€™m doing something wrong, let me know ๐Ÿ˜… This week I received my SkyConnect. Plugged it into my Pi4, unplugged my CC2531 and tried to configure everything with the SkyConnect. long story short: it works, but some of my smart plugs and led strips seem to โ€˜resetโ€™ every 15 seconds? As if they were turned off and immediately on again? Sometimes it stops and seems to work fine, and then at seemingly random times and intervals starts to โ€˜flickerโ€™ every 15 seconds again. Never experienced this with the CC2531, no other hardware changes or new deceives are involved. Could this be the SkyConnects fault, or is there something else to blame? Happened both in Zigbee2MQTT and ZHA (which were not enabled simultaneously).

winged knoll
drifting grove
uncut ridge
winged knoll
uncut ridge
#

alright, too bad i cant seem to find any of the long range to buy online

#

does it matter much that they are only BT4 and not 5.1 ?

swift sand
unique lantern
#

That Tuya switch is Zigbee which is locally controlled

swift sand
gloomy elbow
#

Tuya is not a good choice generally, but there is Zigbee Tuya and WiFi Tuya

#

WiFi Tuya = run away, screaming

winged knoll
#

And even if it is supported, it may still be a roll of the dice

swift sand
#

well to be fair, i dont need the Tuya.. i just want something with similar functionality/looks. Can anyone recommend?

zealous dune
#

although i have the one you linked and find nothing wrong with it, its one of the good ones

gloomy elbow
#

I think I saw an Aqara one that looked similar

fast bane
#

What do you guys use for hardware dimmers, (phase cut style) looking to avoid using smart bulbs.

#

Can be 24v or 230v.

unique lantern
#

24v as in LEDs? or was that a typo?

fast bane
#

Yes LED strips, but preferrably din mounted

#

I would like to have everything in my switch board enclosure and prefer to use industrial electronics.

static horizon
#

Not sure if this belongs somewhere else ,but got one of the Martin Jerry 3 way switches hooked up and installed with tasmota. Used the template and guide from blakadder, but the physical switch doesn't work. It controlled the light before flashing, and HA works fine, but just the physical button doesn't anymore. Anyone run into this?

#

ah, nevermind. I must have missed something. Re-did the steps a third time and it's working now ๐Ÿคฆโ€โ™‚๏ธ

jagged crypt
#

you had to ask the question to get it to work correctly

unique lantern
torn dust
#

this may be my vaguest question yet but... how does one recognize hardware?

#

i found this module and im trying to figure out what it is

jagged crypt
#

well, once you've seen it, it tends to be recognizable

torn dust
#

the chip inside

#

tech sheet says biss0001

#

which lead to this forum post

#

there's it basically called a "HC-SR501"

#

if i google that, the images match

#

but its not listed on the farnell website, or most competitors

jagged crypt
#

isn't that a sensor that you read from the ESP chip IO?

zealous dune
#

that is the SR501

torn dust
#

is this just from experience or is this a skill i can learn

zealous dune
#

and its a bit shit

#

no skill, just knowing how components look aka experience

torn dust
#

boo

#

i decided to do this hobby like three days ago so i barely recognize anything

torn dust
zealous dune
#

AM312

#

SR501 doesn't play well with wifi radio nearby

torn dust
#

oh hey that's what the forum post said too

#

i was gonna try the capacitor hack but if am312 is cheap as well i'll skip that step

#

its 2 euro

zealous dune
#

they're all cheap

#

SR602 is also an option

torn dust
#

im just still surprised if one slaps a white housing around some 5 money components and adds marketing to it, it's suddenly a 50 money product on store shelves

zealous dune
#

its not that drastic

#

a lot of devices are cheaper to buy than to build if you count in the enclosure

torn dust
#

if "kinda shit" is alright, one can 3d print a "kinda shit" enclosure hehe

#

philips hue motion detecors are 50 money

#

not that i want any, but as comparison

zealous dune
#

because they dont use crap components, they work, they have warranty

#

if you can build a battery powered stable zigbee sensor for 5$ i'll hire you this instant

torn dust
#

those are fair points actually

zealous dune
#

we'll conquer the world

torn dust
#

warranty on my creations is in the minute range rather than years

zealous dune
#

but you are overpaying around 15% for the Hue label

#

Aqara motion sensors are 15$ and work extremely well and if you want to cheap out you can gamble with tuya and get some for 6-10$

torn dust
#

should be doable for <10 money

#

im looking to make things myself almost exclusively, learn some new skills along the way

zealous dune
#

and then you recharge the battery every two weeks and curse the sensor for being very slow to connect to wifi

#

don't you think the market would be overflowing with such projects if it were that feasible?

#

there would be diy kits like those solar robots and bugs

torn dust
#

i think the market caters to convenience, and not everyone is into making sensors i suppose

#

robots and bugs have an interaction factor that can woo some kids

#

a sensor just.. kinda sits there :p

zealous dune
torn dust
#

oh yeah ive come across those

#

kid me would've loved that

torn dust
#

many xiaomi products seem to hit the sweet spot from what i read

zealous dune
#

mostly can't got wrong with them, my house is full of xiaomi gear including routers and phones

frosty field
rich epoch
#

At the moment iโ€™m running it off an old laptop and just getting to know home assistant and working on some automations however for when i set it up properly, what should i run it off, could i get some peoples opinions please.

zealous dune
#

the old laptop

lucid dagger
#

Hey everyone, recently I learned that I should really buy switches with neutral wiring (and wire my switches as they donโ€™t have by default), especially with low power lights

#

Does this also apply to three way switches?

obsidian root
#

I believe / hope a raspberry uses much less power for that same result

winged knoll
#

A Pi4 consumes between 5 and 10 watts, a laptop may well draw around the same ... my old i5 certainly does

zealous dune
thin latch
zealous dune
#

need what?

thin latch
#

integration for that device

#

is it hard to implement?

zealous dune
#

hard is relative to your knowledge and skills

#

i don't know you therefore it is impossible to answer that

#

wild guess: yes

thin latch
#

I have no pior experience for adding new unsupported device

winged knoll
woven finch
#

whats the goto for in wall smart switches these days? Going to be doing a full basement remodel. I have zwave for the in wall switches upstairs. Not sure if id continue zwave, or go wifi

rich epoch
woven finch
# rich epoch At the moment iโ€™m running it off an old laptop and just getting to know home ass...

Im currently running my HA instance on an HP G3 800 mini
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275586474208?hash=item402a3be0e0:g:3nsAAOSw-Q9joM45&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoFIFV8hhB1IMel08860LYcal0Fi0pRh%2FaeE6AJHU5GoWGk%2FMyqc1tdNzJia3kTc9RS3wT6ZEWvEL4QpJ3dUOKUQ5K%2BTH%2BgpPbIg93XkI%2B9168v3n%2FtXlBrYn0Lw8h0Cimwf0%2FQSS8lcL0eexnCPONsUJSm4mhcRdc6UAv0pKphgi5Lu3swcYcaRAt9V9SIiKzjvIvWCgUcO9RVxUjPgP8Dg%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-Cm9o2tYQ

you have to know how to flash a hdd to make it work in x86, but the perf has been some much better than the pi 4 i used to be running it on

#

(updated the link to one that comes w/ a 128g ssd and 8g ram for $95)

#

you would also need something like this to flash it, or you can flash it w/ a USB stick if you are familiar w/ live distros (like ubuntu and a handful of others) https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2HZOT25TV733Y&keywords=sata+adapter+to+usb&qid=1672501882&sprefix=sata+adapter+to+usb%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySzVESkE4UEdHQVJaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI5NDUzMkpBVlMzOU8zNlNaUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzY2Njk5M1M5RjVFOUxFNldHVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

zealous dune
cobalt pasture
#

I have a woodstove at my home that I've worked some automations for:

  • Monitor Flue Temperature and Send Mobile Reminders to restock if it falls below set point
  • When in optimal range, turn off HVAC heating, and activate circulation fan to pull heat through the house
cobalt pasture
winged knoll
cobalt pasture
#

Thanks sorry

gilded sparrow
#

Hi all, hope this is the correct channel. Is there consensus on displaying dashboards on amazon show devices? I've seen various issues with certain versions, etc.

sleek summit
#

has anyone migrated to a different zwave usb radio before?

#

I know on a zigbee device you can just migrate the radio. Is there something similar with zwave ?

unique lantern
sleek summit
#

true stories. Thanks, didn't notice that

winged knoll
rich epoch
gilded sparrow
gilded sparrow
zealous dune
unique lantern
winged knoll
#

Depends on the Pi, and what you're doing

#

Pi on an SD card is a ticking time bomb

rich epoch
unique lantern
#

USB SSD or bust

winged knoll
#

Any Pi with less than 4 GB of RAM and the Code Server add-on is also a time bomb

gilded sparrow
winged knoll
#

I've been running HA on an i5 laptop from about 2012 for years now, it's low power, low noise, and just keeps on truckin'

ruby harbor
#

I am using a Pi 4 model B to run Home Assist. I have no other hardware planned. What should I use to provide motion sensor capability to windows?

#

I don't have any hubs. Just the Pi board as of right now

unique lantern
#

Most wireless motion sensors are going to be Zigbee, Z-Wave, or less commonly Bluetooth Low Energy since all of those are very low power

ruby harbor
winged knoll
#

Zigbee is going to be a better choice

#

You don't need a hub for that, just a coordinator and some (Zigbee) routers

unique lantern
#

Definitely go with a coordinator stick over one of the consumer hubs; those hubs tend to be a way of vendor lock-in

ruby harbor
ruby harbor
ruby harbor
unique lantern
#

No, a wireless router isn't the same as a Zigbee router. There's 3 types of Zigbee devices: coordinators, routers, and end devices. A coordinator creates the Zigbee network (this is the role something like a Philips Hue hub would take), a router is a wired device like a smart outlet, and end devices are battery powered things. The routers act as relays for the end devices and build the mesh network

ruby harbor
#

@unique lantern A coordinator is a wireless router using whatever freqencies Zigbee uses from how I understand it. A router is really a range extender wireless router for the Zigbee network? Then there are just end devices.

unique lantern
#

Yeah, on a high level that's the basics of how it works

#

In the same way that your laptop can't talk to another laptop on your wifi without going through a router, a Zigbee wireless button can't talk to your wireless curtains without going through a router

#

So you have to have enough Zigbee routers to have good coverage so devices can either communicate with each other or ultimately back to Home Assistant through the coordinator

ruby harbor
#

Thankyou for the information

outer knotBOT
#

@ruby harbor There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:

zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended (though the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset), but there are other options including the CC2652 based sticks. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented.

Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively. As of 1.15 has a native UI, and it also uses MQTT for control and configuration. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the recommended option being the [CC2652 based sticks](#zigbee-archived message). If you want to use an EmberZNet stick see this issue. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and adding unsupported devices is also documented.

deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are supported. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).

ruby harbor
winged knoll
#

Do not buy anything based on the CC253x chips

ruby harbor
#

Thankyou everyone, system is ordered.

unique lantern
#

Now you've fallen down the rabbit hole of buying smart home gear

ruby harbor
#

A rabbit hole I needed a sufficiently large stick of dynamite to start.

unique lantern
#

Before you know it you'll have things beeping and booping radio waves all over the place

ruby harbor
#

I didn't even look what frequencies these zigbee hardware works off of

glossy prism
#

Zigbee is 2.4 GHz

blazing hawk
#

Quick question, Iโ€™m looking at cheap mini-PCโ€™s to run Home Assistant on. Whatโ€™s the minimum specs you ideally wanna exceed so you have growing room? Will pretty much anything with 4 CPU cores, 8 Gb RAM and 128 Gb SSD be plenty?

glossy prism
#

If the CPU has a passmark of at least 1000 then those specs look fine

blazing hawk
#

The reliability of Wi-Fi devices is so hit or miss. I wish I could just get everything in Zigbee/Z-Wave flavors but sadly that isnโ€™t possible. Iโ€™ve spent weeks trying to find a 1600 Lumen Zigbee smart bulb with colors and dimming but it literally does not exist outside Phillips Hue. That bulb doesnโ€™t even perform that well in testing but it costs $65. ๐Ÿคฆ๐Ÿปโ€โ™‚๏ธ So if Home Assistant can at-least fix the reliability problem Iโ€™ll be happy for now.

unique lantern
#

I try to aim for ESPHome or Tasmota stuff when it comes to wifi devices

#

But finding something specific like that might not be possible

glossy prism
#

Yeah my Tasmota devices have been very reliable

unique lantern
#

That's a fairly high amount of power for a normal size bulb. The only 1600 lumen Tasmota-compatible bulb I even see listed on blakadder.com is a single Tuya bulb from before they switched wifi modules, so it can't be converted anymore

blazing hawk
#

The issue Iโ€™m running into is finding smart bulbs that have high white brightness and color saturation. My Sengled Zigbee bulbs have been extremely reliable for two years but that just arenโ€™t bright enough. So I bought their new 100w wi-fi bulbs after testing four models side-by-side. The performance is fantastic! Best white brightness and RGB color saturation similar to Yeelight and LIFX. Unfortunately theyโ€™re extremely unreliable and constantly disconnect. Even worse, five bulbs have died in the first 3 months and Sengled disconnected their phone line and support emails. So now I have to replace 24 smart bulbs again before the rest die. ๐Ÿ˜‘

blazing hawk
#

Are most of those Home Assistant compatible?

gloomy elbow
#

Honestly I'd look at a bulb splitter and two #zigbee-archived bulbs rather than deal with that. Though it might not be as pretty.

blazing hawk
#

Thatโ€™s the test data Iโ€™ve collected together so far from various sources.

glossy prism
#

Some of those CRI values are higher than I'd expect. Where did that data come from?

blazing hawk
#

Mostly this video, theyโ€™re the only ones who gave exact data and actually tested the lumen output themselves.

unique lantern
blazing hawk
#

Itโ€™s so hard to find good data. Everybody just reads the specs off the box which is absolutely worthless. I can do that! LOL Manufacturerโ€™s never put accurate specs on products, thatโ€™s why we need 3rd party testing.

glossy prism
#

Never seems extreme, but I'm sure many manufacturers take... liberties with them

blazing hawk
obsidian root
#

Hello all ! Iโ€™ve spent some time looking around and planning to buy several products from Shelly ( the 3EM to measure 3 electircity consumptions points, and several Plus 1PM to power/measure specific devices)
Iโ€™m only thinking a bit because itโ€™s all wifi and I may need to switch to zigbee later if my number of devices increase
Do you know any good zigbee alternatives that i could look into ?

#

-> a CT sensor, preferably x3 or more (shelly is 100โ‚ฌ for 3 CT)
-> smart plugs up to 16A with power consumption tracking

gloomy elbow
#

Smart plugs depend on the country. I wouldn't try to replace the Shelly with something Zigbee. The only other similar things I know of are either Wi-Fi without being open (so no local control), or #zwave-archived

obsidian root
#

Understood ! I have 0 knowledge on zwave. I will look

unique lantern
obsidian root
#

Iโ€™m thinking to monitor power from the main cabinet but to monitor plugs locally (in-wall or smartplug) as I didnโ€™t see any benefit to centralize those ( shelly Pro 4PM with DIN rail to monitor 4 plugs cost more than 4 Shelly Plus 1PM)

#

I will look at emporia vue aswell

obsidian root
#

Oh anyway this is US only it seems

#

I mean the smart plugs are not EU variant

unique lantern
#

If you're flashing it, you don't really need to worry about their smart plugs because you can use another brand of plugs and let HA's energy dashboard show it all together for you

obsidian root
#

Thx for the intel !

fringe hinge
#

Howdee.. I'm setting up an Odroid N2+ with a 32Gb SD in there. Now, considering SD card lifetime I am considering to either use an eMMC card or an external USB SSD. Is an eMMC a good alternative to an SSD? (I like the fact it is embedded on the N2+)

zealous dune
#

yes

fringe hinge
#

good.. and would you recommend to add an emmc and then use HA's Move datadisk option to move the data form the sd card to the emmc module? Or just create an entirely new bootable image on the emmc and restore a backup and ditch the sdcard altogether?

unique lantern
#

Probably makes the most sense to just flash the eMMC and restore. The move datadisk option seems more geared towards a Pi where you can't as easily boot from USB

fringe hinge
#

cool

#

will order an emmc then tomorrow. I came to this coz I wanted to use mariaDB and they say it is more disk intensive so better switch now then.

ruby harbor
winged knoll
#

Depends on what else you're connecting to the Pi - for just the Pi and maybe a single USB stick it'll be fine. If you're hooking up an SSD too then it probably won't be

ruby harbor
#

That power supply can't supply the Pi with the max the port is able to handle?

winged knoll
#

Probably

#

Output: 5V=3A

#

Actually, maybe not...

ruby harbor
#

There warning says that some cell phone chargers will not supply the full power if they don't see the right authentication circuit but I don't know if that one will have a problem

winged knoll
#

That warning is more for the Pi3 than 4

#

The official power supply has a 5,1 V voltage, and a maximum of 3 A of current which it is able to provide.

#

So, the one you've found is ... just as good as the official power supply (mostly)

shell gorge
#

Is there a favorite USB brand? I know Cambridge Silicon Radio adapters are one of the best but is there still a difference between the different vendors? Currently have an ASUS USB-BT500 but found the following three models on Amazon:

image0.png
winged knoll
#

If you're asking about Bluetooth adapters, check the Bluetooth integration docs

shell gorge
blazing hawk
#

Are there any issues running Home Assistant off MacOS? I saw a powerful Apple mini-PC for sale by someone but didnโ€™t know if it was compatible.

winged knoll
blazing hawk
#

Thanks! MacOS supporting 3rd party software? What is this the Twilight Zone? ๐Ÿคฃ

#

Oof, the LIFX bulbs are on sale for $25 on Amazon. Best price Iโ€™ve ever seen. So tempting but I need 20.

tawny fox
#

i've got a containerized install and i'm passing my bluetooth adapter into the docker container as readonly. Is this required? and doesn't that mean that the ha can't interact with the bt device properly?

wide crest
tawny fox
#

yes, the dbus device is what is shared as readonly. i'm wondering if it should also be writable

delicate rock
#

Hey all I got the sky connect usb delivered and migrated but Iโ€™m seeing a few problems with a couple of my devices which led me to try and reconfigure the device and it fails then I thought let me check if my working devices can be reconfigured - anyone else having this issue

jovial escarp
#

Is there a way to use CM4 IO board and enable usb ports with HAOS? Can't get my zigbee stick to work in the USB ports, everything else seems ok.

To enable the USB 2.0 ports on the Compute Module 4, you need to edit the boot config file (/boot/config.txt) and add:
dtoverlay=dwc2,dr_mode=host
https://www.jeffgeerling.com/blog/2020/usb-20-ports-not-working-on-compute-module-4-check-your-overlays

gave up; unable to edit file with usb/rpiboot and the ssh 22222 addon didn't seem to work. Maybe bad idea to have eMMC CM4 and put HAOS on NVMe?

edit2:had to put nvme in usb adapter, mount first partiton and add this to config.txt

[all]
enable_uart=1
dtoverlay=miniuart-bt
[cm4]
otg_mode=1

and prepend cmdline.txt with console=ttyAMA0,115200 to get both usb ports enabled and a login shell on the pi uart to emulate the yellow while waiting.

#

Would perhaps using the yellow image just-workโ„ข๏ธ? nope

buoyant wraith
#

Regards. Could somebody recommend a thermometer/hygrometer that is cheap and integrates well in HA?

willow timber
#

You'll need to specify how you want the sensor to communicate. wifi, zigbee, zwave, ble

#

not need, but it will narrow things down quite a bit

outer knotBOT
#

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

  • Which country you're in
  • What your budget is
  • What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
  • Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
willow timber
#

oh, neat

#

๐Ÿค–

winged knoll
#

(it's also in the pins)

buoyant wraith
#

Sorry I beg your pardon.
Location: Europe
Budget: as low as possible but no limit
Protocol: I can use Wi-Fi, zigbee or Bluetooth.
Features: Long Battery life and reliability

willow timber
buoyant wraith
#

Might you post the name?

gloomy spoke
#

Looks like

XIAOMI Mijia Bluetooth Thermometer 2 Wireless Smart Electric Digital Hygrometer Thermometer Work with Built-in Battery for Home

buoyant wraith
#

๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป

willow timber
#

LYWSD03MMC

unique lantern
#

I have the same ones and they're great. They can be flashed with custom firmware that integrates seamlessly with BTHome

willow timber
night herald
#

Hey Guys, a while back I hooked up a Sonoff Mini (wifi) to my Hoodrange Light in my kitchen, this worked great with Tasmota, Tasmota has "SwitchMode" and I was able to configure it to a "button" which worked 100% with my stock switch/button. - Today, I'm on a rampage of replacing all my Wifi dongles with Zigbee ones. I just installed the Sonoff ZBMini. it paired instantly to my zigbee2mqtt.... but without tasmota's "SwitchMode" option, i lost the ability to set it as a button instead of a switch. so now when I press my button, it will flash ON, then turn off. pressing it a 2nd time will turn it on. but if I want to turn if off, pressing the button will flash OFF, but then turn on again, pressing the button a 2nd time, will turn it off. - this will not fly with my Wife. is there a way to configure how the switch functions?

willow timber
unique lantern
#

I've had them for about 10 months and they report to have around 70% battery left still, so they'll probably last at least a couple years on a single battery

willow timber
#

my batteries all died within a couple weeks of each other after a year or so

#

using the first firmware they released

#

Order date: Jan 9, 2021 is when I ordered actually and I replaced them 2 months ago max

#

I had to update all of the firmwares anyways and the batteries are easy to replace

jagged crypt
buoyant wraith
unique lantern
#

Yes, you never need to deal with Xiaomi at all. You can just flash it, then pickup the broadcasts with something like an ESP32

velvet parcel
#

Is there a way to make my bluetooth light more user friendly going from rgb to white? Right now, I have to tun on the white channel and turn off the rgb channel to make it work

buoyant wraith
willow timber
#

no, esp32 is normally what people would use for bluetooth rather than an esp8266

unique lantern
#

Right the 8266 doesn't have bluetooth. Has to be an ESP32 or something else

willow timber
#

๐Ÿ™‚

buoyant wraith
#

Is the esp32 used as a โ€œrange extenderโ€ or necessary for the communication?

willow timber
unique lantern
#

It's not strictly necessary if you have a supported bluetooth adapter. That should work also instead of an ESP, but I don't have any experience doing it that way. ESPs are pretty cheap and you can deploy a few of them to get good coverage

buoyant wraith
#

Yeah got it

#

I get some esp32 then

willow timber
#

if you're adding esp32's, you may want to add some other things to your esp32's too while you're adding them throughout your home.

#

maybe not. ๐Ÿ™‚

buoyant wraith
#

Any suggestions?

willow timber
#

I have mmwave and pir on mine but that's a bit much for some.

unique lantern
#

When you flash the sensors, just make sure you set the advertisement type to "BTHome" and the ESP will find it. I think it defaults to the proprietary Xiaomi advertisement mode

buoyant wraith
#

Is there a go-to option for the esp boards?

willow timber
#

Maybe but I just use Amazon

zealous dune
#

There's too many variations these days

#

Depends on your use case, dimensions, firmware used

willow timber
#

Oh, I may have misunderstood the question

unique lantern
#

Like a go-to brand of ESP board?

zealous dune
#

If you want a "brand" m5stack is the only reliable one

buoyant wraith
#

No I meant more like chipset etc

#

I am completely lost on the options

unique lantern
#

The ESP32 itself is the chip, the boards vary in what other features they have

buoyant wraith
#

A assume to collect some Bluetooth any board will do?

zealous dune
#

There's not many if you plan to use esphome and bluetooth

#

Just ESP32

#

Board choice is a different matter

buoyant wraith
#

They come with ch9102 drive or cp2104 for example

zealous dune
#

That's irrelevant

#

It's just the serial to USB adapter

#

I prefer boards without it since you only use it when connected to the PC via USB

jagged crypt
unique lantern
buoyant wraith
#

Do you power them via gpio then?

zealous dune
#

Find an ESP32 board with a good voltage regulator and preferably not too big

#

You power it via pins

#

Some have battery connectors, some have barrel connectors, some have terminals and some have headers

buoyant wraith
#

Soldering/wiring and 3d printing a case is no problem for me

willow timber
#

nice, will be a fun project

jagged crypt
#

Then pick up whatever you like ๐Ÿ™‚ I had a batch with horrible wifi ability (<10 feet), so the link I posted up was my second purchase to play with.

buoyant wraith
willow timber
#

for esp8266, I get wemos d1 mini clones or esp01 and for esp32 I get the wroom clones I think

jagged crypt
buoyant wraith
zealous dune
#

Good...no.. the clones have terrible voltage regulators

jagged crypt
zealous dune
#

I'd look for something with AMS1117 or the original Lolin boards

buoyant wraith
zealous dune
#

Most likely Mouser

buoyant wraith
#

The claim 50โ‚ฌ min. order value if I remember correctly

willow timber
#

stock up. ๐Ÿ™‚

buoyant wraith
buoyant wraith
zealous dune
#

Yes

#

Most NodeMCU type boards have one

buoyant wraith
#

Yeah I found one

#

Thank you all for your help so far

blazing hawk
# jagged crypt https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/15w-color-bulb ? 1400 reported, not 1600, have n...

Thanks, Iโ€™ll take a look! At least 1200 lumens would be fine for everyday use. Thatโ€™s double the brightness of the ~600 lumens my Sengled Zigbee bulbs output. Which just isnโ€™t enough to illuminate a room. The struggle is finding a bulb which also has excellent RGB color saturation. Most look so trash they arenโ€™t even worth using. Iโ€™ve given up on finding a Zigbee/Z-Wave version. Hope my router can handle 30-50 Wi-Fi devices. ๐Ÿฅด

#

The Phillips Hue โ€œ1600โ€ is the only bulb that does all three but at $65 a copy thatโ€™s a hard pass.

zealous dune
#

There's a reason you can't find a cheaper alternative, the good LEDs are pricey

blazing hawk
#

Anyone tried cutting open and transplanting a Zigbee chip from one bulb to another? ๐Ÿคฃ

blazing hawk
#

LIFX are the best performers across all colors and whites overall. If they only had Zigbee theyโ€™d be perfect.

zealous dune
#

As I hear it lifx is a terrible smart bulb

#

And yes, I transplanted chips between quite a few devices and protocols

blazing hawk
blazing hawk
jagged crypt
zealous dune
unique lantern
#

The RGB on bulbs I have is definitely lower output as well. If you open it up, there's 10 warm white, 10 cool white, and only 5 RGB LEDs

jagged crypt
#

evaluate "need" vs "want" costs on 1600 color vs multiple 800 color bulbs ๐Ÿ™‚

zealous dune
#

A lot of bulbs list their total lumens combined between white and RGB

spiral skiff
#

AC electricity question, I have two switches wired in a two way switch circuit that are in the same box, but are on two different breakers. Can I safely use a single Shelly 1L to run them both, or will it wreak havoc connecting the two separate circuits?

#

It probably doesn't matter that they're on two-way switches, I think the same logic would apply if I connected a Shelly between two lights on different breakers.

unique lantern
#

I'm guessing by you calling it a 2-way, you're in Europe? At least here in the US, if things are on 2 different breakers they may be on different phases depending on which breakers

spiral skiff
#

Oh, no 2-way as in, two switches operate the same light

#

So breaker 2 has one light, two switches (one at the door, one in the kitchen box) and breaker 4 has another light, with two totally different switches (one at another door, second in the same box as the kitchen)

willow timber
#

are you in a country that uses 240v at the wall or 120v at the wall? I think that's jumbers concern. if you use two breakers that are next to each other you'll get 240v

spiral skiff
#

US, 120v

unique lantern
#

Yeah we call that a 3-way here, that's why I asked if you're in Europe

spiral skiff
#

Oh, I am not an electrician type, so 3way then

#

I think it'd be possible but dangerous to connect a single shelly between the circuits?

unique lantern
#

Ah okay. Yeah so what BuSheeZy said. Depending on how the thing is wired internally, if you put 2 hot wires from different phases in, you could release the magic smoke

willow timber
#

if they are on the same reference, it should be fine but I'm not a โšก person. ๐Ÿ™‚

unique lantern
#

I'm also not an electrician, but I'd imagine connecting 2 circuits into the same physical device might be a safety hazard even if they're on the same phase

spiral skiff
#

Oh, I see. Yeah this is a 2 bedroom apartment, only 6 15A breakers total.

willow timber
#

I'd go with the safer side of jumbers ๐Ÿ˜›

spiral skiff
#

And the wiring is questionable, as I have 5 green wires and 1 red wire going to the two switches in the kitchen box lol.

#

At least they're not no neutral, so I don't have to fuss with a bypass at the lights. And I have two Shelly's, so I guess I'll just use one in the kitchen box for the door and the other for the kitchen light on the single switch side by the living room.

#

Thanks!

unique lantern
#

If you're not familiar/comfortable with electrical wiring, the safer option is always gonna be to call an electrician

spiral skiff
#

True, I think I'm ok with lights, but I was even worrying a bit about the bypass.

#

I wired some barn lights when I was a teen, but that was 35 years ago ๐Ÿ˜›

#

And some logic to determine which wire is hot on the switch that only has green wires lol.

opaque patio
#

Any reccomendations on getting this to be smart

#

Nvm... Can't post photos lol

jovial escarp
opaque patio
#

It's a 15,30,60 min timer for my fans

uncut yacht
spiral skiff
#

Yeah, that's what I thought. The Shelly 1L makes it look ok, because they have 4 terminals for the two switches, so it looks like it's separate inside, but I don't want to take that chance.

uncut yacht
#

Yes, there might be separate switch terminals, but from experience they loop back into live or neutral of the "main" circuit (L+N in).
I'd avoid doing this entirely, best case scenario you'll end up with a voltage leak and if you ever needed to isolate one circuit at the breaker, you'd have to do both because they'll end up connected together.

spiral skiff
#

And connecting two 15A breakers through a device rated for 4.1A means dead device ๐Ÿ™‚

uncut yacht
#

Potentially, that'd only happen if the load (output) of the Shelly goes over what it's rated to do..

Your breakers will blow if the load on them goes over 15amp for example, but that would be a long time after the Shelly has effectively blown itself up if it's max load rating is 4.1amp.

spiral skiff
#

Yeah, I think they would only be connected if both the hallway and kitchen lights were on at the same time, but that happens at least a couple times a day.

faint thicket
#

hey folks, any recommendations/experience on wireless zigbee water valves (excluding sedna) available in EU?

uncut yacht
blazing hawk
# jagged crypt evaluate "need" vs "want" costs on 1600 color vs multiple 800 color bulbs ๐Ÿ™‚

I get what youโ€™re saying. If the technology didnโ€™t exist yet that would be one thing but it clearly does. There are many examples on the market that do one or two of the things I want but not all three. Which is why Iโ€™m confused, why has nobody made a Zigbee/Z-Wave bulb with extra bright whiteโ€™s and decent RGB colors? Yeelight, Wyze and LIFX all have fantastic performance but no Zigbee/Z-Wave. The first two barely dim so thatโ€™s annoying for night-time use but the point stands.

blazing hawk