#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 9 of 1
For context my Ikea devices connected the same way never seem to stop sending statuses. But they are all hardwired though.
The first question is great for Homey support. The second one is maybe
Yeah I guess the important question is "do aqara devices perform better with a conbee stick"
No
So this is a common problem?
It's not common but it's been known to happen
I have no such issues with my Aqara end devices on a CC2652 coordinator
For me it keeps happening over and over again. Ever couple of months.
i have the sonoff zigbee dongle in use, works like a charm
See the pins in #zigbee-archived - Xiaomi devices can be fussy about the router
Yeah I've red the pinned posts and done what it says but they Keep fallinh of the network. Was wondering if it might be homey that is the issue and if was better going with another solution.
Possibly, many of us use Zigbee2MQTT or ZHA and have no issues
Hi hi, if I have a 5V 20A AC->DC PSU do I need a 20A fuse?
Or can it be lower due to some of the conversion from AC to DC?
Depends on which side you want to put that fuse
Output side you'll need a 20A fuse and input side either a ~1A fuse on 115V or ~0.5A on 230V. I'm not an electrician so take it with a pinch of salt and some electrician can correct me where I'm wrong
Awesome, it was the input side
https://kno.wled.ge/basics/getting-started/ there's a basic fuse/wiring guide here
I think I'm all set for the output side. I think for the PSU a 1A fuse should do the trick
.5A seems a little hard to get
what is that new mmwave presence sensor? wifi?
What are you referring to?
You know, the new mmwave sensor
Which one dammit, there are so many new ones
the new one
Ah not capital The, now I know...
Anyone know if I can use this radio as a thread router? https://itead.cc/product/sonoff-zigbee-3-0-usb-dongle-plus/
uhh so has anyone had a lamp kill their smart bulbs before? i have a 4 bulb lamp and it seems like 2 of the bulb sockets literally kill any smart bulb attached to them after a day or two lol
Maybe it’s just waiting to catch fire lol
Dirty power or something wrong with the hardware.. I wouldn’t keep trying lol
oh yeah ofc .. i just realized it was my lamp and not the bulbs :p not going to use it much more
lol its pretty crazy though ive been going nuts debugging bulbs
turns out its a lamp..
Yea
Been there lol
We’re so used to not blaming hardware these days..
I’m ready to blame it early on or try and swap for another part device etc to rule out hardware before I start chasing ghosts in software
hmm thats interesting youre totally right lol
i actually had a ryzen CPU 1-2 years ago that was a similar nightmare
months of software debugging to prove it was a hardware issue
Fun
Hey Folks,
Location: USA.
I'm just starting down the Home Automation route, and was wondering: has anyone used these 20a smart plugs with Home Assistant? It says they're Google/Alexa capable. I was hoping they might be directly integrate-able, without requiring either, since I'm trying to avoid both of those. All I really want to do is click a space heater, and a heat lamp, on&off so my wife stops turning her home office into a sauna, and to cut down on the power spend for heating a chicken coop (respectively). I'm probably just going to buy one, and see how setting it up goes, but thought I would try and ask, first. I can find almost 0 information on these smart plugs, which isn't encouraging...
Almost every circuit in the house is 20 amp, and spending $70/outlet to save money on electricity will take a very long time to math out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P3KN1XS/ref=ewc_pr_img_1
They are Smart Life compatible (which is part of the Tuya integration).
For the most part, those work pretty well with Home Assistant. (
I do say most part because my Merkury Door/Window Sensors (which are also Tuya) do not work at all.
Tbh I would avoid cloud-based stuff though
Most people would. I've migrated most of my Tuya stuff to localtuya.
But my door/window sensors do not work with localtuya.
It throws an exception error when I try. 😐
Zigbee or zwave would be a better choice for battery-powered sensors
If you believe the amazon reviews, everyone says it burns out at 1200watts, so if you plan on running 20amps through it, I would potentially investigate further
Hi there, has anyone had any success getting an Alexa Echo Dot to work as a bluetooth speak with home assistant. I'm running the container on a pi 3 B+ with the bluetooth integration setup
I just can't get the pi to pair with the alexa ...
Has anyone got any recommendations for some lights to make a sunrise light for my bedroom?
Above my bed I have built-in cabinets which have a small lip hanging down that I could stick an LED strip to (pointing at the wall), or I have a deep headboard I could fit something like a Hue Play Bar (or pair of) onto pointing upwards and out at a ~45° angle. Finally I can stick something straight onto the underside of the cabinets pointing down at my face which may be the most effective way to wake me up, but could also cause crankiness. I'd like RGBCCT for full transition into a "wake the hell up" 😄
So far I've looked at:
- Hue Play Bars: still in the running.
- Twinkly Flex: Looked perfect until I found out that it doesn't support transitions in HA.
- Hue gradient strip: 💸
- Some kind of other LED RGB strip: I would prefer not to see individual LEDs if possible.
I prefer Zigbee to wifi, but I'll take whatever works.
if you have the dineros just go with Hue
HA doesn't support bluetooth speakers directly.
Ohhh
I was hoping to save some money 😛
Ok, maybe an audio cable then?
other options is buying FCOB CCT LED strips and pairing them to a LED controller of your choice
FCOB so you don't see individual pixels
Is there a guide somewhere to the difference between COB and FCOB?
I think I have COB in my kitchen, but I'm not 100% sure
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/GL-C-008P.html is a good controller, but any of their (Zigbee 3.0) range should be solid
F is for "flexible" COB
I remembered you and atx saying Gelopto Tinkerer, thanks for the link to the specific one!
Bingo, I have FCOB in my kitchen already and like those!
cannot not like 640 LEDs per meter 😄
If it's indirect you can get away with less, but once it's directly visible...
It also solved my "my kitchen is always freezing" problem 😄
Yeah, the way my bedroom furniture works means I can stick it so I'll only see the side.
and with FCOB you can even get away with installing them without diffusers
|____
|| | #cupboard
|---| #overhang
|
||(°)--< #sleeping human
|————————— #bed
|_________ #floor
The LED strip on my bedhead is about 10 to 15 cm from the wall and that it's only 30 LED/m isn't very obvious until it's very dim
ASCII diagrams ftw 🤓
i still need to buy some of those RGBCT FCOB strips to see how well they work
Couldnt I use MPD to play sound on the raspi host?
I have this heat-valve from lidl: https://ibb.co/FbJX7J1
I found that the detail-page to set the values for the valve are a bit complicated to understand & set.
How can I figure out, who had developed this gui - to ask/support them to optimize it.
And have the speaker setup there?
That's a topic for #zigbee-archived - you're using Zigbee2MQTT, but the idea is that you use something like Home Assistant to manage it, Z2M's UI isn't intended for "normal" use
ok. thanks. I'll ask there.
I only found a way to programm the vallve (for the week) in that ui.
Z2M's UI is generic, for everything, but if you can do it in their UI you can do it over MQTT
#automations-archived and perhaps the new weekly schedule helper are your friend to do it in HA
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/368308_2010.html is pretty complete about how to control it over MQTT
What you mean with MQTT? Is that another plugin?
I'm a newbe and are glad that I got the stuff up and running with Z2MQTT, but I'm willing to learn.
Can you suggest some more information how you would do it via MQTT?
If in doubt, check Z2M's docs for the device - they're usually pretty complete
Yep" I still read it.
So what I did untill now, I open Z2MQTT, go to the valve > details and there I do the setting
Did you look at controlling the device through HA?
Z2M's UI is more of an admin interface, not one for "normal" use
If you're using it regularly then you're doing all of this very wrong
You can easily make a schedule with this #integrations-archived: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/schedule/
And then add a simple #automations-archived to turn the heating on and off: https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/automation/editor/
Then give it a day or two and get fancier 😉
I didn't see the difference on this.
For me (as newbe) the whole thing is HA.
I assume it like that: I have the nice dashboard to see and change states of a device per Room. Means I can turn on/off bulbs with a tap on a icon, or see what currently the heating-point of the valve is.
To setup the weekly schedules for the valve I go to Z2mqtt.
I've also played a bit with automation & scenes (if time > 22.00 and TV goes off, run the scene "goToBed")
ah ok. I don't use it regulary, but only to adjust the setup of the valves
Zigbee2MQTT is other software, and is just one of many ways of getting Zigbee into HA
If you installed an add-on, that's other software and not part of HA itself
Ahh, I see (and love it) Nice. Never noticed that this exist
I know this has been asked before, but I've not seen a good answer (apologies if I missed it, I'll be grateful for a URL pointing me to it!)
I'm very happy with my Coway Air Mighty purifier's performance. I'm not happy with how it's not easily integrated, and it seems to me that all the Air Purifiers I've looked at use a cloud integration 😕
Are there comparable H14 or better air purifiers with good local controls?
The only 100% local one I know of is the Ikea STARKVIND - not sure what level it is though
I am so tempted to get one of those, I'm just not 100% sure it's a good idea for me
have you found a solution? i have 2 philips motion, one sends events, the other dont. reconnecting doesnt help. install zha and adding devices should be enough to get events, right?
The Starkvind is "only" a H12 equivalent, apparently they are not exceptional in results. (I'm using a smart plug on the Coway, but ... it plays an annoying chime whenever it's turned on, and it forgets the LED/ionizer settings over the power cycle.)
I'm no expert, but do you really need H14? A lot of the results I found out there in the past suggests that there's a lot more to it than just the number on the filter
Yes, for my needs I do want that 🙂
If it helps, I had a fan that beeped when it turned on, and when it turned off (even with sleep mode
). I opened it open and desoldered the buzzer and it works perfectly but silently now.
Hah, yes, I've considered just disconnecting the beeper too! But that also does funny things to the warranty 🙂
Well, it's entirely possible that somehow yours slipped through QC without the beeper. Just saying 😉
What would be the "automation"-event-trigger for the "#integration" I've added?
I would assume "helper", but that didn't appear in the list.
Anyone know of a good flat zigbee RGBW ~bulb? A15 E26
State triggers work on almost all entities
Is there an LED strip that plugs into a E26 socket?
I guess you could just get one of those plug sockets then plug it in that way
Anything "flat" is unlikely to use any standard bulb fitting
the fan takes a15 bulbs I thought eh I'm sure a19's will fit in there but nope too fat 😦
I remembered seeing a Philips that was an a19 but flat but not rgb
That's probably just two led strips back to back in that shape
@winged knoll I use "state" now, set "entity" to "heating basement" (where I've chosed the plan at which times it should be "ON" (e.g Mo-Fri 7am - 10pm).
On "attribute" I only have next event
And below there is "from" and "to" as selector.
I'm not sure what input the integration creates? Is it only 0 and 1 ?
You really want to ask about #automations-archived in the #automations-archived channel
You can check the current state in
-> States
show your state developer tools
ok, I switch over to #automations-archived
hey, just wondered if anyone had any recommendations for me:
I am currently doing a full renovation and rewire on my property, and was considering running all of the lighting circuits back to a central point, and controlling/dimming them from there.
is there any "din rail dimmer" solutions? my searches so far are fruitless
As in, all of them together?
I would suggest doing it in the ceiling of each room, rather than elsewhere
Usually if you have multiple lights, one of them is the main one which controls the others, that's the one you'd add that to.
But it really depends on what kind of lights you're looking at
centrally controlled lights usually are done with a system different than your typical home stuff
thanks, will look at this
yea, i know, like control4 etc?
I'd say: figure out what kind of lights you want, and then we can help figure out the dimming
you have a central control unit and lights are DC voltage
the control unit has PWM controllers
If it's just regular lights and you're in the US, I've heard good things about the Lutron Casetas.
If you want RGB with rainbow chasing discos, you'll need something different
I know there are RS485 16 channel pwm controllers with Ethernet running on ESP32
im in the uk. I just figured since it was a full rewire, in a house im never going to move out of, Id try and get it all right
problem is finding someone to do it 😄
my electrician got a seizure when i mentioned low voltage lighting
didn't compute for him
so my initial plan was to bring all rooms back to a central point, and control each room with a relay
but obv i would prefer a dimmer
wasn't initially thinking of going low voltage
then get a din mount relay solution (buy/build)
i don't think the space is there yet
the commercial alternative seems to be like a row of shellys in din mounts
its in the industrial sphere
but seems a waste, + I would sooner hardwire ethernet if poss
There is, but it's not going to be HA compatible
it's off the shelf(y)
Personally I prefer to have CCT bulbs, which means different needs—but also, the ability to switch between warm and cool whites
I mean if I could get something taht was modbus or whatever I can do the inbetween bit
I was looking at dmx for a bit haha
what a bunch of wled controllers per room? 😛
what CCT bulbs are you using?
@zealous dune your site has been a godsend by the way!
not sure extracting all of your money for smart home toys classifies as godsend but thanks 😉
mine was questioning my decision harshly, now we have two
although it doesnt really need to be smart
I have the Hue CCT bulbs in my ceilings, but the IKEA ones in lamps and like both
and they are wifi?
the hue ones?
also concerend about 60-80 smart bulbs on wifi :S
Hue are Zigbee
ah
#zigbee-archived is nice, 100% local protocol 🙂
I have done some testing with zigbee tbf
I didn't realise hue was zigbee
🤔
I guess I can still bring all wires back to a central buzzbar, then I have the option down the line to replace it with something smarter
run cat6 from there to each room too
zigbee vs wifi for lightstrips (for fun). After playing with esp32 pressence detection, I found the m5atom lite, and m5 has some lights(sk6812), and was looking at something simple but deployable (was trying to figure out power also).
#zigbee-archived for me. It'll expand your mesh nicely
I've got some hue strips, and hue-hub, which work fine, I was eyeing the crazy wled (i think) animations,etc
Wled is superior for rgb yep
was looking at - https://shop.m5stack.com/products/sk6812-rgb-led-flex-strip + https://shop.m5stack.com/products/atom-lite-esp32-development-kit?variant=32259605200986 , but suspect I would need additional power for the led strip?
Don’t buy those lol
the lights or the esp32?
Buy sk6812 or whatever you want from Ali express and esp32 wroom32
Not all esp32 are equal and don’t all work with wled
If you want a better variant buy like a quinled esp32 in a d1 mini form factor
https://quinled.info/quinled-esp32/ something like that
The btf lighting shop on Ali express is a pretty good place for strips / pixels
https://shop.allnetchina.cn/products/quinled-esp32-ae you can buy ‘hats’ with a mic and other things built in or add your own if you prefer a more diy approach
anyone make any cases for these things?
Yea
i don't have a 3d printer 🙂
There’s a few options to print. You can download the files and have someone else print them
Treatstock is a site I have my printers on.. lots of shops there who can print whatever you want. You just send a file
Local makerspaces have printers too
Mine just charges a bit for filament iirc
You can also just buy a project box and drill holes in it
I was hoping to throw money at a solution that doesn't require time 🙂
Ok
i see the benefit of the quinled external antenna, but i see that breaking/falling apart in any place I would put it "loose"
what's the "average" shipping time on china orders? 4 weeks?
Depends on the destination and shipping method
hmm
Does some of you have a good idea to monitor multiple temperaturs at the floorheating distributor. I need some kind of hardware with 4 temperatur input. Preferably a unit I can buy as a prewired pcs of hardware.
Some linke NTC or thermocouples or similar input
Ok so this is probably gonna devide people into camps but I am gonna ask anyways.
I recently found out that things like KNX and Homematic exist.
Now my question is:
If money is no object and the only things you are concerned with are comfort and designing your smart-home/home in a way that makes it easy to modernize it over time (changing to different standards, switching out cables without having to open all the walls, etc) would you go for wired hardware like KNX or would you use wireless hardware like wifi, zigbee, thread or would you combine the two?
Wired has many advantages over wireless. Where you're able to pre-plan and pre-wire, I'd go wired if money was no object
Hello i have been looking for ir blaster and i am out of luck with esp based ones as either they out of stock or just eol
My thinking was that if I use something like KNX I can still use home-assistant as my controller which allows me to keep it open-source and local and I retain the ability to use other gear if I so choose. Dont know how well that works in practice though - does anyone use KNX stuff and can tell me how they like it?
Tried all the links from template blakkader
Anyone have any recommendation for ir blaster with esp module? Or ir blaster with zigbee but not battery based
anyone here run home assistant on an orange pi 3 LTS?
If so, did u use a sd card or ssd to boot from?
and how reliable is it?
Also am I able to run Home Assistant OS/Supervised on it?
HA will run on nearly anything. Whether it's any good depends on how much you're demanding from it. Cameras and Media stuff tend to be quite demanding, but basic monitoring etc isn't.
But looks like Orange pi only has 2GB of ram? That'll be your biggest limitation
https://shop.m5stack.com/products/ir-unit ? (no personal experience)
realistically whats max capacity for 2gb or ram?
or if u can give an example of a generic 4gb ram layout would appreciate it
SOrry I don't understand the question.
Realistically, nobody can tell you that because utilization depends on what you’re doing. I’d say start with 2gb if you want, and upgrade to 4 when things get slow or stop working.
If you’re really worried about capacity, you can buy an old dell desktop for $100 or so on Amazon & use that. It’ll be much faster than a pi.
True, what makes it worse is I got rid of an old laptop I had
I'm looking for a low voltage smart relay to turn on/off a 12v power supply that I can use with my Hue Bridge, until I get me HAYellow. Any recommendation would be appreciated.
what do i need to use WLED and what light strip do you guys recommend
or do i wait for matter
and if so whats the eta on strip lights compadable with matter
No need to wait for matter. For WLED you need an ESP32 based controller, light strip and a power supply
wled works well on esp8266 too, but less pixels/strips
Oooh, I have a serious case of the wants: https://www.philips-hue.com/en-gb/p/hue-white-and-colour-ambiance-festavia-string-light-250-leds/8719514465558
140 GBP!?!?!?!?!?
I said I want, not "I buy" 😛
But they are addressable. I have Twinkly lights already
you shouldn't even want them with the price
you can get a 100m of WS2811s for the price
maybe even more
I like Hue stuff, the colours are very good. I know they're overpriced, but these are also HomeKit compatible which a lot of folks I talk to and work with want
meanwhile I have these in the mail https://aliexpi.com/xGTL to pair with a WLED controller
Page not available 😉
ah you're in one of those countries
I have a RGBCCT COB strip and the Gledopto Zigbee Pro controller coming soon anyway I hope. So that'll be my morning wakeup light
Turns out you can't find addressable RGBCCT COB strips... yet
you can find addressable RGB FCOB strips if that helps
but the addressability is only in 3cm segments
I know, but I wanted RGBCCT
So I went with "CCT is going to be better for waking me up than a rainbow"
i dont think there even are regular addressable rgbcct strip
you can get one rgb one and one WWA one
i do have a RGBW neon tube one
Yeah, I was thinking if I like how this looks and it works I may get an addressable one and run it right underneath. If my measurements are accurate I'll have just enough space to run two COB next to each other
Does anyone know a smart heater that can be easily controlled with home assistant?
What kind of heater? What country are you in?
With that integration, any smart plug/switch and a temperature sensor can be a smart heater
What I'm looking for would be a heater which can be controlled using the amount of power so that I can control it with a pid controller. I have heaters with a smartplug at the moment but the only thing they can do is on and off. It would be great if I could change the power of the heater in order to get a constant consumption with the use of a pid controller in node red. Havent found anything though so i guess this does not exist
That seems unlikely. Why are you aiming to control the amount of power rather than the temperature in the space?
boy do I have good news for you https://millnorway.com/wifi-panel-heaters-generation-three/
Damn even with local Api support nice
I need to add a Cisco router in my home assistant.
For which I have host, username and password.
But when I am changing the confirmation.yaml file and restarting the HA. It is not showing anything. Please help.
Changes I am doing in my configuration.yaml file are:-
device_tracker:
- platform: cisco_ios
host: 192.xxx.xx.xx
username: cisco
password: xxxxxx
new_device_defaults:
track_new_devices: true
Did you run the configuration check?
Also, local IP addresses shouldn't be sensitive information, so there's no need to hide those.
But most importantly, where did this come from?
new_device_defaults:
track_new_devices: true
That's nowhere in the documentation
Yeah yes I ran it...it is fine
It's not noted on the cisco ios page: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/cisco_ios/
Yeah, but that's how platform config options are shown... only in the "parent"
Yes, it's confusing
If you're troubleshooting, I wouldn't start with adding extra options not listed on that page personally 🙂
Well... that and running the command line check and not trusting the stupid UI
- HAOS
ha core check - Container uses
dockercommands - Core requires you to activate the venv first
I tried doing it with cisco-ios first
But it didn't work...so I decided to use the Netgear integration details.
Making shit up is a sure way of ensuring things don't work
Any solution??
Remove the lines that I told you about it
Use the service call (Developer tools > Services > Check Configuration) to make sure the file is valid
device_tracker:
- platform: cisco_ios
host: ROUTER_IP_ADDRESS
username: YOUR_ADMIN_USERNAME
password: YOUR_ADMIN_PASSWORD
Follow the fine manual?
Add that, do #hardware-archived message
Already tried it...😩
@native bough When using Discord's Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Use Shift + click on the Reply option, or click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).
So... do the next step
Then once you've done that, restart HA and check the log file
See the pins in #integrations-archived - where this really belongs
I was wondering if a Shelly 1 pro (dinrail variant) can also measure negative values. So for example if i connect solar panels to it
Can anyone suggest a reasonably priced ambient light/illumination sensor that I can use in HA? I guess compatible with Zigbee deConz or maybe BLE though an esp32? I'm in EU if that matters
I have https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/GZCGQ01LM.html and it works really well
Thanks. One question I have about these -- if you use them to turn lights on/off when it's dark/bright, how do you deal with the light shining on the sensor and making it go into some loop?
Don't put the sensor directly under the light?
I have (most of) mine mounted horizontally on a wall, in a suitable location to pick up the light level in the room, and they're not controlling lighting that's going to exceed my "turn on the lights" threshold
hey guys, I spoke to a couple of you the other day, about a full rewire on my house.
I am now considering using something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/GEYUEYA-Home-Downlights-Spotlights-2700K-6500K/dp/B08D61BDHC/ref=sr_1_51?crid=36A1M8ZEMZZ9Y&keywords=zigbee+lights&qid=1668530641&sprefix=zigbee+lights%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-51
can you see any issues with a house full of these? (~50-60 of)
Do they have a local integration with HA?
Is your WiFi going to handle 50 to 60 bulbs?
Can your eyes handle the shitty light quality?
If you're redoing everything do yourself a favor and get high CRI for main lighting, preferably 90+
I hadn't twigged that they carefully avoid specifying the CRI
They must've forgotten...
err they are szigbee
Our lights have a CRI that's at least in double digits
Color rendering index
ah
You want at least 80, but higher is good
And nothing there says Zigbee
WiFi Bluetooth Mesh
Makes stuff look natural when no natural lighting and not like in a night club
Then later on it just says
Connection methods: BLUETOOTH 4.2
That means they re not even WiFi
They use wifi interchangeably with wireless meaning any protocol without wires
You should pick a brand that has an actual website
I really feel like I should be running back to a central place and handling it there tbh, but struggling to find a solution. Ideally, Id have them daisychained like a pixel strip of leds, but in a gu10 ish format
personally if you're going for smart lights, I'd buy fittings that'll take a standard bulb and then you can buy a smart bulb version
Much easier to swap a bulb than a whole fitting
I have been looking at DMX too
I'd just install led strips if redoing
but was put off by the fact that it doesnt send state
wife says its gotta be spot light style
Cause she doesn't know better, I have one of those too
GU10 smart bulbs in a GU10 fitting
Spot lights are for... Wait for it... Spot lighting
They don't fill the space with lights well
Works great in museums tho
haha
so how are you using led strips?
I would be game for led strips, If I can sell it to her
I'd disagree, we use GU10 downlights for a lot of the lighting here - get ones with a broader spread and they work brilliantly
I don't, I have ceiling lights since I didn't redo the installation
😅
I use led strips in my workshop
other issue is some of the ceilings have oak beams etc, so gu10 would be easier
You'd need to select them carefully then, test one out first
really I want 3 wires on the back, and control them myself
its a nightmare
CRI is my friend then
That's not happening with retrofit solutions that are based on L and N
Only some version of LED lights with dimming drivers
yea i know, but there doesnt seem to be any alternative
There is but you won't find them in the home section, they're used by professionals for clubs, restaurants and in industrial settings
ok...
https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-gu10-rgbcw i put a couple of these in a bathroom and i'm happy with their color. they're rgbw-cct and able to be flashed with wled/tasmota/etc
i dont like the idea of 60 wifi bulbs in a house tho
I got a couple of those, but yea i didnt fancy that much wifi
I don't see an issue there
the upside to these is with wled you can control via dmx or e1.31 or w/e
buy some fancy controller if you so please
I was thinking maybe I could get something like that and pop them open and drive them myself
but not ideal
why?
just the work of modifying 60+ bulbs
why modify them in the first place?
That's... Almost pointless
Led bulbs are just circular led strips
Technically you can link them together to a single PWM controller... But damn that's a lot of work and undoing
buy a strip of sk6812 and some silicone diffusers and a controller and show the wife what led strips can look like. or analog if you want high cri
Buy cheap normal gu10's and replace the PCBs with your own custom ones with LEDs and connectors to a singular LED controller
I got some sk6812 and am using the reflected light rather than diffuser, its great. (on a different project)
when you say normal gu10s, you mean like just normal white ones, and swap them with something like sk6812?
Yep
I actually have that planned for someday to replace the two I have in the kitchen exhaust
yes. I see
I guess I was thinking of doing that, but buying a led rgbcct gu10 and just removing the board and making it addressable
but tbf I never taken one apart, no idea what the inside looks like
It's not a pleasant task, they're usually filled with some putty like mass of varying degrees of hardness
The cheap normal ones are lighter so might not be that problematic
Or.. you know... Get some good downlights
Innr has some spot ones but not sure if it's RGB or only W
this is the other option. just get standard decent downlights, and then attach them dimmers
Innr do CCT bulbs, I've been looking at them, though I've been happy with the Tradfri GU10
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Round-Recessed-Ceiling-Lamp-6500K/dp/B017Z5OKS0/ref=asc_df_B017Z5OKS0/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=231945702707&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16228416965117142936&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007121&hvtargid=pla-466401915484&psc=1 << would be good If I could buy these empty 🙂
6500k? maybe at a gynecology office lmao
I mean If I could buy that as an empty case
right, cheers guys. will pick this up tomorrow
determained to get this sorted soon ahah
not exactly an HA issue... but I have a Pi 3 that I use a kiosk for an HA dashboard... recently Chrome started throwing an Error 4 no matter what I do... it simply won't load the HA dashboard. Anyone seen that?
Hey 👋! I use it. It's fine, like it does what it is supposed to to. It's not really open source though - you always need ETS (on Windows) to configure devices.
Can't say anything about reliability compared to zwave or such as I don't have any of those devices.
I have so little faith in Amazon reviews, I hadn't even looked at them. Hm. Them burning out at 1200 watts is pretty believable. Crap. That means I'm back to the drawing board for this.
@clever summit error 4? javascript/console error, or http?
10amps may means you may want to look at other solutions?
cant find any lights with ESP32 what ones would you recomend
i think @cold moon has a faq for wled... 🙂
ooh ok thanks
i think you want sk6812 lights + controller + power
but I haven't put together anything at this time
ok thanks!
Just join their discord
Hello, I’ve been looking at both Sonoff and Shelly relays to replace my MyQ remote on my lift-master garage-door opener. I’m not sure either will work for me. I’d rather not use a separate power supply, but I’m thinking I may need one regardless of what I want.
I’m looking for a relay to go inline with my regular button, would trigger on the button press, but also be able to activate via HA.
Also, I can’t remember if Tasmota is compatible with Shelly relays or if I dreamt it?
I would also need some way to know if the Garage door is open or closed at any given time. Dunno what I could use for that.
MyQ uses a wireless tilt sensor that sticks to the garage door via self-adhering velcro.
hey new to home assistant and looking for a physical remote to control devices
is rf the best protocol for buttons ?
Wall-mounted android tablet.
Most devices won’t respond to normal RF.
no its just 1 room but 5 devices and i would rather just a physical remote
can i get a rf receiver for home assistent?
Possibly. Never heard of anything like that.
ok
Then again, I’m kind of new here also.
it is, and to answer your question about sensing the door state, you could use a wired reed switch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSrm6h7r-KE skip to 6:20 for a wiring guide
I thought a reed switch used an electro-magnet to open or close an SPST switch?
this is the one i used: https://www.amazon.com/SM-226L-3Q-Seco-Larm-Overhead-Magnetic-Applications/dp/B005H3GCW0
Ok. Great! I didn’t think about wiring the original button in parallel with the shelly. I figured the original button would go into the switch input. This is genius!
@severe flume Unless you use a custom remote, it’d be difficult to set and remember which button does what.
Back in the days of Windows XP Media Center Edition, there used to be “MCE remotes” - infra-red remotes and USB receivers. They are designed for that purpose, and the layout of the buttons reflects that.
stickers
Point being, unless you want to paint the remotes, and use a sharpie, etc. it would be difficult.
Yes, or stickers.
The other issue would be getting HA to recognize your USB receiver, and know what to do with it.
i was looking into numpads but they are the wrong shape
Might I ask what types of devices you want to control?
a ac, light, 2 window shades and a sleepme dock pro (water cooled matress pad) and a bedjet (bed fan)
Hmmm. Not sure about the window shades, but the rest could be controlled with relays or smart switches. Home assistant has phone & tablet apps, so you could just use your phone as the remote.
ye but i would like to have a dedicated remote
they are all smart
and connect to home assitent
Ahhh. Ok. Not sure what to say then. Perhaps you could build one with an ESP32, but that would require quite a bit of work.
i thought so but looks waaay to complitaed for multiple buttons
Check back in a few hours and see if anyone else sees this thread.
Do you have a zigbee and or zwave mesh?
You can use any kind of remote or button with multiple buttons and button presses for anything you want
Someone like @cold moon …
I use a couple hue remotes and then a blueprint to do all kinds of cool shit
Cancel that order
There is no good zigbee and zwave combo device
HUSBZB-1 not good?
Correct nortek is shit
It was good like 3 years ago
Buy a sonoff p dongle for zigbee and a zooz or aeotec 700 series for zwave
harmony remote to home assistant?
ok thanks
Buy usb extension cables as well
ok will do
Zigbee and zwave sticks are prone to interference from usb ports of pi or computer or whatever is running hass
Also good to route them outside a rack or other metal enclosures
Harmony were discontinued a year ago iirc
so wont work
USB 3.0 has a 5Gbps signaling rate. The USB 3.0 specification requires USB 3.0 data to be scrambled and it requires spread-spectrum. The noise from USB 3.0 data spectrum can be high (in the 2.4-2.5GHz range). This noise can radiate from the USB 3.0 connector on a device (such as a PC or Router), the USB 3.0 connector on the peripheral device or the USB 3.0 [port]. If the antenna of a wireless device operating in this band is placed close to any of the USB 3.0 radiation channels, it can pick up the broadband noise. The broadband noise emitted from a USB 3.0 device can affect the SNR (signal-to-noise ratio) and limit the sensitivity of any wireless receiver whose antenna is physically located close to the USB 3.0 device. This may result in a drop in throughput on the wireless link.
anyways, that's not working
According to the home assistant web page, 4.9% of the HA users are using harmony remote plugin:
The Logitech Harmony Hub integration was introduced in Home Assistant 0.34, and it's used by 4.9% of the active installations. Its IoT class is Local Push.
still works even tho discontinued?
no clue, i see a hub in some of the pictures
aha ok thanks will look into it
My point is you’d literally be investing in discontinued hardware and possibly used only options
Which only makes them cheaper, but its a gamble as to how long they’ll remain useful.
Not necessarily
They have a cult following for people that like them
You can look at sales trends on eBay after the discontinue announcement
Ahh. Don’t they need a server to phone-home that could be taken down at some point?
I remember buying a NetGear stora, and 2 Seagate GoFlex home NAS models. They were super cheap!
if you are willing to go with "multiple" remotes, finding zigbee buttons with 3-4-5 buttons is straight forward.
this says it has bluetooth is there any possibilty it would work?
3 months later…
I found this also - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Connection-G20S-PRO-BT/dp/B0B1MCDJ37 🙂
no personal experience though
i understand wanting physical remote, I picked up these for control of media in the house - https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Ikea_E1810.html
will order this will see how it goes thanks
I've never used it, so start with low expectations
this hasdoable press?
ye understand
Those ikea remotes eat batteries like crazy in my experience
I picked up some of the 4 button ikea (2xAA) also, the 5button is 2032 based.
anything better?
I think its better with z2m than the ikea hub though
Only have a really old gen though so i suppose they could have changed a lot
The magic cube could be fun
the firmware update eats the battery if you aren't close to a location you want to be
Hue remotes are pretty good tho
Hue remotes are more expensive but i love them,
The rotary one is really nice, heavy and full of functions
which is one is that?
The webpage at https://image.coolblue.be/max/500x500/products/1778098 might be temporarily down or it may have moved permanently to a new web address.
ERR_ADDRESS_INVALID
do i have to update?
oh nice
can i hold a buttun and then the rotate will do something else?
it updates once, just make sure it's paired near where it'll be, and/or leave it next to a zigbee router for the first couple hours to do the firmware update easily
Yes
oh not a big deal
which rotary hue dial?
I have one of these - https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Lutron_Z3-1BRL.html - but didn't know what other rotary hue switches there are. I use this for actual dimming/on/off lights.
I had one of these, just didn't work well - https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Ikea_E1744.html
ok
whoops, coolblue.be is being blocked by adguard
🤣
to answer my own questions "Philips Hue Tap Dial" is the unit in question
and lastly - https://github.com/dionifreitas/playr-remote
make sure to at least report back the results
whats the advantage of this over just regular keyboard?
will do
looks like they interfaced it to a ble remote of some sort.
oh it looks like he is using to control a bluetooth device? i dont need that thanks
Anyone else had problems with his skyconnect order? I ordered on 5.10. thought its a preorder. In State of open home i heard first batch had been send. So i rechecked my mail and saw there was a tracking link but i never get anything and the tracking link also did not work. I also did not get an answer from the seller. I am happy to support Home Assistant with my money but the seller is here a problem for me. Main reason is lack of communication from them.
I want to control my fireplace which uses an RF remote via Home Assistant. Considering Bond or Broadlink. Anyone have any experience?
Not what you want, but I have the rfxcom gadget and that works well in my 100 m2 apartment for various legacy RF devices
just curious, will someone walking past my home be able to control my Philips hue light either via BLE or zigbee?
Zigbee, no
Bluetooth.... no idea. Some Bluetooth stuff is encrypted and authenticated, but an awful lot isn't
how does it prevent it from happening?
any idea about philips hue?
@thin latch When using Discord's Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Use Shift + click on the Reply option, or click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).
With encryption and authentication and all that good stuff that takes effort
As for Hue, I don't know, I've never bought any BLE kit to go sniffing traffic for
See all the recent chatter though on people discovering their neighbours BLE devices and being able to interact with them
🤔
I wonder if it disables the BLE part if it get paired to a zigbee stick
waiting for my first zigbee stick
Hmmm, seems like it only listens for Bluetooth within 30 minutes of a physical power cycle
go outside try 🙂
sitting at my desk scanning for bluetooth I "see" a "hue light 1", "ihomet something" 3-4 apple decides (none in my house), couple microsoft devices (unsure), and a samsung device (work phone i assume). Using wifiman (ubiquiti) on my phone. I live in a house, not a condo, apartment.
now scanning for PAIRING availabl devices from my phone, I don't see anything.
though I have found neighbors BT speakers, and a TV before.
What’s the best way to have a simple stand fan that you can control the speed of? I was kind of thinking a WiFi triple relay (ESPHome or so) and just wire it to the buttons.
A Xiaomi fan
Hi, anyone happen to know what level of reliability I should expect from Tradfri Zigbee bulbs mounted in sconces like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JBBKZLS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ACSOVW5LP5G75&psc=1
Not entirely sure on the rest of the environment, other than that it's for an office building and the hub should be within ~30 feet.
hello, I downloaded govee integration and entered api but now devices discovered (I can see them in my moblie app) any ideas?
FYI @jagged crypt my lenovo acting as firewall/router has been rock-solid since I changed to a rtl usb-nic instead of the other one (ax88179)
TP-Link UE300 10/100/1000 LAN (ethernet mode) [Realtek RTL8153]
The other driver may be getting work; there are a few threads on this eg https://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php?id=278526
Awesome, @tacit burrow i also ordered a dummy displayport, read that if the boxes don't detect a video card they shut down the GPU, so meshcommander can't display console, since there actually isn't one. Will report back on power changes with gpu poweredup. 🙂
I got meshcomander console working by just changing the linux/boot console mode
I think. Sec
my experience with hardware driver issues, spend the extra $5 on the good chipset 🙂
the display dummy port was $8 usd, there are ways to change the grub config also
or just plug it into a monitor
My box sits on a little shelf at the top of my WC, along with a switch, and my starlink router. A bit hard to get too (need a ladder) and no space for monitor
ordered a dummy. AU$7.99 free shipping, from local seller. No waiting for .cn to save a couple bucks.
I guess my screen-mode fix didn't work. I certainly can't see anything now.
mine arrives to tomorrow to validate
Anyone have any good uses for motion sensors that detect occupancy a single time and are then "clear" until motion stops for the entirety of the rearm period (2 minutes)? Bought a few assuming I could use them for light control, but since they report as clear until people stop moving again, doesn't work so well 🙄
my hue lights (via hue hub, not HA automation) I just set the lights to trigger for 20 minutes or 10 minutes after a motion sensor. That timer keeps resetting after the clear period and pushing the timeout. It means worst case the lights are on for 20 or 10 minutes if I run through a room and then leave, but in reality it covers 80-90% of usage. Get fancy and trigger all lights off when you aren't detected in the house anymore.
Is that bad? How does that compare to a Raspberry Pi? I have one of Synology's older DiskStation models currently that doesn't support Docker. 😕
Hi i am using a RPi4 for my HASS - Can i easily control my PWM fan without adding some random python scripts? Currently it is always running but i want to enable it only over 60°C
I have a question regarding homematic integration. Somebody here with some experience? https://community.home-assistant.io/t/integrate-hmip-falmot-c12-homeatic-into-home-assistant/490315
#integrations-archived would be the channel to ask about integrations in
Your forum post is about #add-ons-archived though
Bonus points, the add-on you linked to clearly states that it's deprecated 
Hi, I've a trouble with the update of the Shelly H&T, https://community.home-assistant.io/t/shelly-h-t-update/490019
Hello! I'm new, I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of the best locally controlled non-chinese devices that can intergrate with HA and don't compromise security/privacy.
#zigbee-archived devices are always local, and where they're made is irrelevant
Personally I rather like my Xiaomi devices - cheap, reliable, don't look ugly
what devices? bulbs, energy monitors, buttons, fans, etc?
Zigbee is absolutely amazing
Speaking of though, is there a affordable way to continuously measure chlorine in water and have the results in home assistant?
all of the above. complete smart home. Its a future project, so I'm also looking into Matter
good luck on your project, as a first goal I would recommend you downsize your goal to what you plan on installing and paying for in your smart home.
I know you said not chinese, but Sonoff makes some nice Zigbee devices
I'm planning on building my house from the ground up in a few years, building it around completely self-reliant smart home tech, and future-proofing in many different ways.
"in a few years" means come back in a few years, things will evolve and change
definitely they will, just getting a rough idea.
fwiw the best future proofing you can do in your house is to run some bigger pipes through your walls to run whatever cables you need in the future
Size them larger than what you think you need. ie don't think you only need ethernet
thats definitely the plan
I despise using anything wireless that can be wired. for example at work they have battery operated window blinds 🤦♂️
Yeah that's dumb af. I'm also a huge fan of keeping things wired when possible
I shouldn't need to replace batteries in a device that is fixed in place in a building full of power
That being said, my house was built in the 80s and sometimes batteries are the better choice than ripping open a ton of drywall 🙃
same with internet/inter-device connecting. I don't want a bunch of devices on my wifi even if they dont need a ton of bandwidth
At least I don't live in Europe with their darn brick buildings 😛
Yeaaahh... I mean, wifi is okay to a degree. Not a fan of IoT stuff in general, so I don't have a lot of that. But a bunch of things are okay with just wifi
Anything that's in place though can have ethernet (but again, opening drywall after the fact isn't so fun. Hence my recommendation to leave yourself a lot of room to run cables behind the walls)
And like, the best future proofing you can do is realizing that your house will (hopefully) be around for a while and tech changes. What's state of the art at the time of building might not be anymore 20 years down the line, so if you leave yourself enough space to expand without doing big reno projects is super valuable
Another big recommendation is to not have a stroke when doing the wiring in your house. Mine has some absolute batshit insane wiring from years of adding more and more stuff to it
Looking at you, breaker that controls the outlets in two rooms and the lights in two others
yeah, I plan on putting a ton of planning and future-proofing into my house. I want everything done right, and I want smart home sensors like mmWave built right in so there's no need for super obvious eye-sore sensors in the room.
Hallo, habe HA auf einen Intel NUC installiert als VM, wenn ich nun ein Backup von meinem laufenden System von einen raspi3 einspiele kommt nach Abschluß die anmeldeseite wo ich Benutzername und Passwort eingeben muß, wenn ich dies mache kommt immer falscher Benutzername oder Passwort, wo liegt hier der Fehler?
anyone got a (LAN controlled) solution for people turning your smart bulbs off with physical switches? Thought about replacing the switch panels with ESPHome/Tasmota buttons or something and then make them control the lights with automations, but cant find any hardware and dont want to get soldering iron out - anyone know of an out of the box solution that doesn't involve cutting my 3 year olds fingers off?
any smart switch flashed with tasmota/esphome with the relay bypassed either in software or by wiring the load as always hot
Any of the zigbee (maybe other) units that latch onto throw switches? I use a lutron unit, turns a on/off throw switch to a dimmer, and prevents me from physically dropping power. May not be 3-year old proof depending on the shape of your switches. https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Lutron_Z3-1BRL.html
How to setup remote_rpi_gpio on a raspberry with HASSOS?
That'd be a topic for #integrations-archived
what do you guys use for bulbs?
my Zigbee Sengleds are a bit tempermental, they dont make the zwave plus bulbs i have anymore. and I haven't tried wifi bulbs but would imagine they take a bit longer to come online?
I use regular bulbs and then zigbee switches
The Sonoff zbmini-l is great because it doesn't need a neutral wire
I'm looking for a wi-fi peep hole camera that supports rtsp at a decent frame rate. I figured if it supports USB power, I can just run it off of a power bank attached to the back of the door. Any recommendations/suggestions?
Not sure if @gentle fossil is still around here, but I searched and saw a 2021 reference to an AliExpress camera. I couldn't find a post with the details.
Any suggestions for a currently available in the US zigbee keypad to use with alarmo? Seen only a couple at ridiculous pricing on eBay. Doesn't seem like anything has come out to replace the old discontinued ones.
Not familiar with Alarmo, but maybe the Xfinity keypad? Here's one listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234672425874
so i have a supper old spare system
but its 32 bit
is there no possibility i can run the Generic x86-64 Home Assistant Operating System?
I think the -64 gives it away, buddy 🙂
Prerequisites
This guide assumes that you have a dedicated generic x86 PC (typically an Intel or AMD-based system) available to exclusively run Home Assistant Operating System. The system must be 64-bit capable and able to boot using UEFI. Pretty much all systems produced in the last 10 years support the UEFI boot mode.
Though some people report some kind of success - https://community.home-assistant.io/t/hass-hassos-on-an-old-32-bit-laptop/400235/4
But seriously, spent $100 and get an old 64bit one from your local gumtree/tradingpost/craigslist/ebay
whats up with the sas
No sass. Being friendly!
Philips hue, mostly white & white-ambience, plus some full color ones. If you want to try a wifi bulb, the KAUF bulbs are on amazon and inexpensive.
+1 for the kauf bulbs, only downside is that they are rather large.
really hope he makes the more common size (forget exactly what it is) at some point
I there a consensus about what the best smart lock for a front door is?
I want something local-first ideally, but was looking at the Yale locks
Got a Yale lock, an August and a kwikset. Yale is way superior to the others. Battery lasts forever, super silent, operates local
Is it an Assure one?
Do you have to do stuff through the Yale cloud or can you cut it loose?
I'm thinking of buying an Amcrest Ad410, as recommended here... Would it work fine in Europe?
I only see it a available from US
I have modbus tcp USR-DR301 and controller HMI Volcano EC 0-10V (ISM-01-25299). Can it be set somehow to be controlled via homeassistant ?
i think schlage makes the best looking smart door locks
and i havent had any problems with mine
Whenever I lookup smart locks I eventually see a sub-2min video of lockpickinglawyer pwning the lock with very little effort.
hard to justify like $300CAD after seeing that.
haha i mean that guy can pick anything so dont think of it too much
a locksmith can break in to any lock
with the exception of some crazy expensive safes
i forgot my smart lock even has a keyhole haha
yeah fair play.
Alarmo is security, locks just slow people down lol.
then again any asshole with a sweep jammer can disable my alarm system as well
The game of security is to make your house less attractive than the others nearby
As long as you achieve that, you're winning
I work in it consulting. I call it "bike lock theory". same idea tho
that ofc falls down if you're being targeted, but if you're a crime of opportunity it's a less attractive opportunity.
If you're being targeted, that's a very different risk model
At that point DIY and off the shelf really shouldn't be involved
which reminds me... my ST setup had a rule where while armed, vibrations on the door sensor would turn the lights on->Red for 10s. I need to recreate that in HA
(unless you happen to be an expert in the field)
at that point you need a moat with gators
ED209
hahah perfect
I grabbed a bunch of cheapo zigbee door sensors the other day. going to connect some to the outer doors and use those for some kinda warning action when the system is armed..... provided that the batts can survive -20 to -30c. we'll see.
not sure if this is the right channel to ask in but....does anyone have advice on a cheap way to build/buy/convert a physical thermostat that is not wired directly to any heating/cooling system but would just allow me to send commands to HA to control a climate entity in HA?
I'm setting up my mitsubishi mini splits with either esphome or mitsubishi2mqtt so i can integrate them to homeassistant. that would allow me to read temps, change setpoints, etc from HA...but i want to retain some sort of local control in the room.
one option is to continue using the IR remote they came with, and changing the setpoint temps with that would be reflected in HA, but it's only one way, so if i change the setpoint in HA it won't change the display on the remote.
i'm a little tempted to go pick up a nest thermostat (i can get it free after local rebates), and -- i have no idea if this would work -- wire it up with a 24VDC transformer, and put some resistors on the terminals to trick it into thinking it's wired to a furnace. then use the nest integration and set up some automations to sync the values between the nest and the esphome controller
I find the window next to the door operates far easier 🙂
I've been using HA as my main thermostat for over a year and it's been great. I would start with the "one way" setup, and see how it goes. I imagine the remote will gather dust. I would not buy a Nest thermostat. I'm not sure what the current state of things is, but for a while you couldn't set up new developer access, so you couldn't get them working with HA. Plus the whole setup you described, while creative, seems like it would be a little wild with wires everywhere. You could set up a small inexpensive tablet in the room with HA on it to make changes.
anybody have experience with TP-Link Tapo security cameras and/or Blink Minis?
Does the minisplit have Homekit support? That's how I'm controlling my Ecobee thermostat with HA. It works well
I have some Sonoff plugs, they seem to keep disconnecting from Wi-Fi, any idea?
stock firmware? flashed with Tasmota?
How long do they disconnect for?
Heya, I'm currently looking for a way to monitor our electrical usage and I think going with a smart wall plug would be the best option as they are quite cheap. But I'm not sure which to choose that will work well with HA. It would be fine for me to flash new firmware to it but I'd still prefer not to have to do that for ease of installation. I'm based in Germany.
@tepid forge depends what you need. I had very good results with the tplink kasa plugs, which are wifi (not zigbee etc) so easier to get working if you don't have any of that.
I don't know if they manufacture with your wall plug configuration, might have to google
Those are currently not available for me.
if you can control plugs with your phone (via local, not cloud especially) you will probably be able to do same via HA
Oh, I found this project that seems to be very helpful in finding a plug that I can flash with my own firmware.
Ups, forgot to paste the link XD https://www.tasmota.info/hardware/
Stock firmware, disconnects for seconds every minute
Anyone know what this antenna type is? I broke it and need to order another.
It's the Sonoff ZigBee USB stick antenna.
2.4Ghz wifi antenna
Thank you. Do I need to get the same length as before? I think it says 108mm on the product spec page.
My smart light do not support xy color but home assistant shows the xy color slider, how can I remove that?
Is the aqara motion sensor p1 better than the original? Can find only the original from aliexpress, otherwise I can get the p1 from Amazon (for double the price). No way I can seem to find the e1 anywhere
I swapped out to different ESP32 boards, and the onboard antenna is "much" better. I picked up WROVER-E with camera modules (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3JD1K1T) and I've got a camera working on one unit, and the other unit reports "marked as failed". I swapped the little camera bits and it stayed with the board. Bad board? something else? Config in esphome is identical:
[I][app:029]: Running through setup()...
[E][camera.c:1113] camera_probe(): Detected camera not supported.
[E][camera.c:1379] esp_camera_init(): Camera probe failed with error 0x20004
[E][esp32_camera:024]: esp_camera_init failed: ERROR
[E][component:113]: Component esp32_camera was marked as failed.
Is it possible to use Cree Lighting Bluetooth bulb with Home Assistant through Bluetooth?
no experience with bt bulbs, sorry
It's not listed as supported on the HA website, but someone may have a HACS #integrations-archived for it
Didn’t have any luck looking for it
What kind of devices work well with HA using Bluetooth?
😐
I definitely need to get a better humidity sensor. 😐
Any ideas of which ones are the most accurate?
Which one do you have now?
Originally had my HA on a old laptop with i5/8gb ram but it got broken by my dog. As a temporary solution I have been using my old RPI model 3B+ but its just too slow. I was recommended this: https://store.minisforum.com/products/minisforum-u820-u850-mini-pc?variant=37581008470177
Which could also double as a computer connected to my TV directly to more chill watch youtube for example. However I guess that means no HA OS. Any thoughts from others? I'm in northern europe. I already have a Dell R720 server I use for heavier loads so I'm, not looking for a heavy load server, but I dont want to run HA on this because of distance and a couple of other things
You could run HAOS in a VM on that if you really felt the need
Im also using a Rpi 3 and have similar issues with quality. Mainly during upgrades do I notice speed issues. However would love to beef it up with better hardware. I'm wondering if waiting for a Rpi 4 or just getting something similar to what you posted is a good option.
Does anyone have a favorite way to run HASS. I feel like as a VM might be overly complicated so leaning towards standalone hardware like the rpi
Pretty much any PC from the last decade will be better than a Pi
I run it on an ancient i5 laptop
Makes sense. I'm looking at this right now per what David posted above https://store.minisforum.com/products/minisforum-gk41-mini-pc?pr_prod_strat=use_description&pr_rec_id=7cc005608&pr_rec_pid=5254681821345&pr_ref_pid=5254726647969&pr_seq=uniform
i'm running it on a pi4 and have no complaints really.
Pi4 on an SSD is ok, but the GK41 is about 4 times faster
guess i'm just not all that bothered with the speed on my sdcard. 🙂
SD cards also have a nice feature ... they're good at failing with little warning
Just keep a backup going on if you have pi and sd card, as stated, it might just fail. Duplicati is a nice quick solution and there are plenty of always free resources in cloud for backup
Just a quick Q - I have tcp bulbs and tapo smart switches, is there anyway to connect these to HA?
Google found me https://github.com/petretiandrea/home-assistant-tapo-p100
No idea about the TCP bulbs, that's a terrible thing to Google
I know, such an annoying name but they were cheap and alls I could afford at the time lol
Does suggest they may be Tasmota convertible though
Sadly you're likely to learn that buying cheap means buying twice
I have a lot of projects on hand, and I have a few hurdles googling i was hoping maybe someone can help me out with.
I already have a variety of Z-wave and Zigbee devices in my home with a Futurehome smarthub.
I want to transition completly to homeassistant due to local handling and wider device support, futurehome still isnt fully working properly with most of the devices. Thermostats show up 3 times etc.
I have HA in a VM on my server, and it is talking to the Futurehome hub via their API and an Add-on - but it's clunky and doesnt support all devices or commands.
What different categories of Z-wave/Zigbee adapters are there? I though i had to use USB-Adapter in my server, but.. Are there Z-wave/Zigbee "Hub"'s that you connect directly to the router, which my server/HA can access and fully access/manage as if it was a physically attatched like a USB adapter?
If I knew I would be looking at HA down the line then I would have looked into it, but I just wanted a simple light to connect to my google
oops mb
#zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived can help with Zigbee and Z-Wave
Your choices for Z-Wave depend on your country, so do tell them where in the world you are
For Zigbee you've got more flexibility
Thanks!
Hello to all... I'll raise probably a stupid question to you 🙂 I have an ARGON ONE M.2 case for my Raspberry pi 4.. It was running on a SD card... and just got an ssd... Seems the ssd doesnt fit in the case by 0,5mm.... I now onder if it is a correct one... It seems it shall be a M.2 SATA SSD... And the one I have is a Crucial P5 Plus M.2 PCIe 4.0 NVMe M.2 SSD...
Is this SSD ok or should I change it?
M.2 is the connector type or form factor. It requires a sata m.2 not a nvme m.2
Ah.. thanks a lot!! I hope I can still return it 😦 Have a great day..
My smart light do not support xy color but home assistant shows the xy color slider, how can I remove that?
Hi et all, maybe someone can give me a feedback on this one: Do ThermoPro TP359 (https://buythermopro.com/product/tp59/) temp & humidity device work with HA? Here: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/thermopro/ the 359 is included and should work. Any confirmation? Thanks for helping, /alekos
Do switchbots curtain motors work directly with HA through Bluetooth? Or would I still need the switchbot hub?
Does anyone know if there's a way to install a smart switch on this kind of wire configuration?
https://www.hometips.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/switch-diagram-end-of-circuit-3.jpg?ezimgfmt=ng:webp/ngcb101
(Please correct me if I'm not in the right channel)
Mini PC for HA
The humidity sensors I have now are on my Nest Thermostat and on my Broadlink RMPro 4 (with the humidity sensor on the cord).
Are there any US zigbee smart in wall outlet with power delivery?
Potentially silly question - If I have a Shelly 2.5, am I able to flash the Zigbee variant of Tasmota onto it? Or is the hardware for WiFi and Zigbee physically different despite both using 2.4 Ghz band?
Tasmota is for WiFi devices, not Zigbee
I see a "tasmota-zigbee.bin.gz" on the download page http://ota.tasmota.com/tasmota/release/
3rd from the bottom in the top section
I swapped out to different ESP32 boards
size of SD card? os you are using? software you using to flash?
Is there any cameras working with HA trough zigbee2mqtt?
you can not feed video via zigbee or mqtt
MQTT does support cameras, but Zigbee does not.
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/camera.mqtt/
As far as i know the zb in camera is for the camera controls, on/off, ptz, etc. It is not for streaming. Which camera you have?
you can do images over mqtt
theoretically video is possible but no point in doing that
Hello, would anyone be able to recommend a single port ethernet to wifi adaptor? To connect my ethernet only smart TV to HA. I did some research and found this Asus WL-330gE but it looks to be very old and unavailable in Australia.
No chance of running a cable? More reliable, faster, and less EMF than wifi.
What kind of smart-tv is ethernet only?
they put a lot of fast ethernet adapters on tvs cuz they hate us so it's not always better
best option is not using w/e junk is built into smart tv and use apple tv / nvidia shield / kodi etc
Yeah, I don't use the built-in smart stuff on any of my tvs. It's a mix of Amazon devices and Apple TV.
But to be frank, I use maybe 10 apps anyway. 90% of usage would be netflix+prime+stan+youtube.
I don't think I've touched my main tv remote in a year or two. I just use the firetv 4k remote.
it's an older sony smart tv, doesn't run android
What are you trying to do with the tv/HA?
I've found some options, but it's not worth $50 to do it
might just get a second hand old apple airport express which can do it
I don't buy from kogan, no exceptions
they're super spammy, and mostly crappy products 🙂
Yeah, any wifi AP that can act as a bridge would be fine
CEC with chromecast works so I guess I can just use that, or install libreelec on a spare pi4
brings me back to WRT54G days lol
Ha, kids. That's basically modern stuff! 🙂
I remember coax and t-connectors, and chasing down the bad cable to fix the LAN...
and installing ipx drivers to play doom
and installing linux off 30 x 5.25 floppies
im not that old -.-
i started with dos and grew up with 56k and such though so i had enough hardships
56k? Luxury! I had a 300b modem, which I built from a kit myself, with acoustic couplers (big foam cups for the phone), and you couldn't talk too loud near the modem because it caused line-noise. No error-correction/detection then! 🙂
And (many years later) setting up uucp over modem, to batch download usenet 🙂
haha yeah i was too young for all that
thats not for video though just single image and will not perform to push single frames fast enough to make it look like a video. but ye in theory it works
true but my LG has a nice API that allows Input switching via HA so it’s worth to connect it to HA for that 🙂
sadly it’s not possible to get root access atm
would be really cool
I haven’t looked into it much I have old Vizios with nvidia shields on them
is there a good place to ask about hardware? or this is it? Im interested in adding a motion sensor that is smart but could also work with home assistant, wondering whats good out there since the stuff i currently own doesnt work with HA.
Zigbee (and Z-Wave) are great choices as they're 100% local and will work with HA
does that require an adapter to plug into my pi?
Yes
WiFi based sensors are usually pretty terrible, both in terms of their ability to interface with HA but also in terms of battery life
i see. is zwave or zigbee better?
Yes, but no
Z-Wave is more expensive as it's a proper standard, but it means you know everything will work (at least if you buy Z-Wave Plus or newer). It is also however region locked so you can't just buy and import stuff without some care.
Zigbee is cheaper, lots of it is of suspect quality (Tuya, Sonoff's sensors, Osram's older stuff, etc), but it's so much cheaper, and not region locked
If you're happy to research before buying, and you're not drowning in WiFi signal, then Zigbee is a better choice IMO
See the pins in #zigbee-archived for how to tell if that's a problem
thx
Hi all, has anyone experienced a battery drain on Aqara P1 Motion Sensor? From 100% to ~75% in around one month. That means 4 months of battery life instead of 5 years. Presence led is off and cool off period is 30 seconds as described here: https://cdn.aqara.com/cdn/website/mainland/static/image/Motion-Sensor P1_pc_05.jpg
I have one set at 10 seconds and battery level is still 100% 2 months later
Great, thanks! If that's the case I need to find out what could cause this battery drain. The sensor is using the battery it came with. Could it be the ZHA integration? Or the Sonoff Zigbee ZBDongle-E?
Unlikely to be ZHA, could be the dongle, could be the router the P1 is connected to
#zigbee-archived could help more
I'm looking for camera that will work in HA and some other app. I have now Imilab camera but working only in Xiaomi app.
Search the history in #cameras-archived - this has been asked and answered many many many many many ( 🔁 ) times
Thanks
What dongle are you using?
CC2652
Someone knows a good wifi6 /6e mesh/access point? Currently own two asus xt8 and they start dropping devices when around 50 devices are connected on a single node. Saw few tplink Delco that they say support 200 devices, but on fine prints it mentions that it's not guaranteed, so I feel it's there just for the eyes
is there any zigbee 13A UK wall socket with power monitoring except the Aurora AOne?
sorry, I mean those installed on walls replacing the existing face plate
it is 13A according to the spec on the official page
The Salus and Hive plugs are 13A, no idea about sockets
Does anyone use a fitbit-like device that hooks up to HA and doesn't send data to the cloud? (I'd like to start tracking my sleep quality but I also care about privacy.)
I think writing automations around my quality of sleep for the night sounds like a really fun thing to play with. 🙂
hey all
anyone got anyu experience with adding a SONOFF inching to a garage door pcb?
I have successfully done one on my lobby door, and want to do one on the garage
but I am not a wiz at reading pcb layouts
do you have a pic?
yeah go dm so I can post it
can I dm u ?
I have found the circuit board manual as well
https://www.acsys.gr/products/autotech_control_boards/apic-2001/index
U will need to translate to english
ye go ahead
Can I ask where you got that light from? 😄
I ended up not getting it, but the specific one I was looking at was by the brand Northern Light Technology on Amazon
Darn, those don't seem to exist over here. I'm trying to find a lamp that just turns on when power is provided.
If I am trying to hook up two optocouplers to one pin on an ESP32 for PWM control on some lights, and the example circuit has one optocoupler and uses one 100ohm resistor before the optocoupler's diode, do I need to change resistor size to run the two in parallel off that pin?
You may want to try the experts in #diy-archived
Oh, thanks, wasn't sure what the appropriate room was
You mean a standard lamp 🙂
No, specifically a 10,000 LUX lamp.
that's a lot of lumen
You want https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LT5_-A0m8_U then
@gloomy elbow https://www.amazon.com/Carex-Day-Light-Classic-Bright-Therapy/dp/B00PCN4UVU reviewer reports that it doesn't have a power switch, that if it's plugged in it's on. non dimmable, wirecutter recommended if you care. But I can't remember if you are in the US.
I'm in the UK, but I shall look
I ordered a cheap one with physical buttons off Amazon as I already have a switchbot.
You can get a full spectrum light bulb and make your own if necessary.
Wowza, that one is pricy
I really want something smaller that will sit behind my keyboard if possible.
doesn't that effectively negate the purpose? Shiny high output flashlights into my face while typing doesn't seem productive or helpful for SAD
Full spectrum, 10,000 lux light is the most commonly used in treating SAD. You want to put it in your peripheral vision for several hours per day.
I used to live in Seattle and used a number of them. They help a bit.
can these not just be made diy for cheaper?
i assume you need analog led strips with a high cri number?
Oh I dunno...
Hey guys, I have an old tuya device that I need to flash.
I haven't done a tuya convert in years. What's the latest and greatest method to convert these days?
I can't help but I'm curious (still learning), convert to what?
Convert from the proprietary tuya firmware to tasmota so you can use it locally (without cloud) etc
Oh. Didn't know I could do that. 🙂 I have two tuya smart plugs that I hooked up using LocalTuya.
Hope and a prayer that it still works
Manufacturers have been making it harder with non esp chips or locking them down iirc
Yeah that's exactly why I haven't initialised the device via the manufacturers app. Afraid it might auto update
I bought this device years ago so I'm pretty sure it's flashable
well here you go. https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert all the best
Thank you, that is what I used years ago, but was wondering if there was a better way these days?
from the time they patch the software with new pskKey, there is no way around it - so no alternative than this one afaik
has anyone had any luck un-clouding a InkBird ITC-308?
hrm soldering it seems 😦 that means I have to unplug my homebrew beer fridge 😦 https://www.ozonejunkie.com/posts/itc308-wifi-tasmota/
hello! does anyone have sonoff pow r3?
Are you starting a club or have an issue?
with the price of easy flashable or pre-flashed gear, why are people fighting with Tuya stuff at all? Genuinely curious.
yeah, the hobby/tearing things apart i understand, perfectly valid
I'm more flabbergasted with people trying to use Tuya cloud integration
my flabbergasting comes from people who automatically equate wifi device to cloud
The muggles, same ones that equate Zigbee to being battery powered
Anyone have problems with an m.2 enclosure and a powered usb hub just deciding to die(connected to a pi 4)? Im away from the house so I cant get the error but this happened once like a month ago. And I ended up plugging a monitor into the pi and seeing it stuck trying to boot from usb. I ended up fixing it by moving the m.2 usb to a different port on the usb hub and restarting HASS to get it online again.. Btw the hub is plugged into the USB 3.0 port
i've had usb devices wedge on PC's before, where i've had to unplug/plug. on linux, unloading the device driver and reloading usually fixes it (probably does on windows, just don't know how). Could be similar on the pi. Since you mentioned powered, I assume it's got enough power to drive the m2 drive.
Yeah the hub is powered and seems to have plenty of power. I dn why it wouldnt since the m.2 is the only thing plugged into it.. Also, just running the normal pi hass img. So it's Linux. But I can't ssh into it either. It doesn't get that far to start the ssh server. My friend is gonna go over to my place tomm and get me back up but it's bugging me so I'm trying to do some research.
I'm trying the learn how to have a esp32 press a button on a device. Such as pressing the garage door button or pressing the button on a vehicle key fob. All the guides seem to show a 5v relay being used, but can this be accomplished without a relay? I thought it could but maybe that's a bad idea?
Just use a gpio switch and conect any button - 1 leg to respective gpio pin and other to gnd https://esphome.io/components/switch/gpio.html
You can also try using ble button as esp32 is ble enabled as well https://esphome.io/components/sensor/ble_client.html
I'll check these options out tomorrow, thanks!
What's the opinion here about https://smarthomescene.com/tag/aliexpress-reviews/ ?
Just asking since I was recommended here several times to avoid Tuya like the plague, but then found these reviews of some Tuya and Moes Zigbee products that are cheap and the reviews don't seem bad at all (at least the ones I've read).
There are some light switches in there that might be useful for me.
The question is always "how have they set up and configured the devices?" If you can buy something else I'd always recommend it personally
I do use a lot of Tuya but you need to be realistic and have some experience with smart home in general
when a beginner asks I also tell them to look away
got it. Will try to avoid if I can find something else. Thanks again
I built a PC with the idea of running it 24/7 for Plex/Frigate/HA but since the electricity prices went crazy I’ve been only using it sporadically when I want to use Plex.
Anyone know how I can measure the power usage and compare it to my existing thin client for HA that already runs 24/7?
Wondering how much difference there is.
a power monitoring plug?
Simples.
Try online cloud vm. Fyi oracle cloud provides a beefy 4 ocpu, 24gb ram ampere system with 200gb storage as always free. Run all your "heavy" loads there. Then at home run rpi or old mini pc which takes no more than 6/7 watts and run zigbee and mqtt. Connect both cloud and mini pc using wireguard, zerotier or tailscale .
Anyone have experience with the Atlas EZO Sensors? I have them on an isolated carrier board, but I see extreme errors directly proportional to enclosure temperature, not liquid temperature. It appears the modules use the built in ADC on the PIC18, which has poor temperature performance. I have a pressure sensor hooked to an ADS1115 in the same enclosure that doesn't see such temperature drift.
Is it possible to turn off the button on a Xiaomi Aquara Smart Plug (zigbee2mqtt) so that no one turns off the plug by accident? I would like to use it to measure my refrigerators energy consumption and it would be nice knowing no one by accident turns it off. Is it possible to set it to by on by default in case of power outage?
Only if that plug supports it
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/SP-EUC01.html seems like no?
Looks that way
Hi can I force temperature sensors to update more often ? Let’s say every 5-10mins ? I am using Sonoff dongle 3.0 m2qtt and sonoff temperature sensors
I don't suppose anyone happens to have a more up to date version of the Yamaha Extended Control API Specification (Basic) document by any chance? I've been able to find document revision 1.10, but the HiFi system REST API indicates it is at API version 2.08 and I see a v2 endpoint is available that isn't mentioned in the spec. I tried Yamaha support, but they were less than helpful pointing me to a local dealer and basically saying I'm "not authorized" to call the REST API on my own device myself 🤣 I'm pretty certain the official dealer I got the device from knows nothing about REST APIs.
Thank you for your inquiry regarding external control protocols:
Since the control protocols are only available for our authorized dealers and installers, please contact your Yamaha dealer or installer to integrate your MusicCast products.
For a price on integrating MusicCast products into your home network through the control protocols, please contact a distributor or installer of your choice.
🔫 gimme a pi 4 or else
@rustic ledge you are looking at this - https://github.com/rsc-dev/pyamaha ?
Google search for "Yamaha Extended Control API" - 2nd hit - https://community.symcon.de/uploads/short-url/vRXaJXAn6vI2DSQYMHF0aqLbdir.pdf - is v2 of the document (but not of the API)
@jagged crypt Thanks for searching for it as well! Sadly enough, that is revision 2 of the Advanced document, which deals with more a more high-level management API that doesn't allow for things like changing the volume or loading another preset.
The first link looks good though!
yeah, i figured you had gotten that for, the pyahmaha has v1 of the same document
I somehow saw that GitHub repository and didn't bother to look in the doc folder. The specification doesn't contain the changes to the API that I had hoped for, but that's mostly on me
good luck, I was dealt with automation rest on squeezebox server (but that's all software)
- service: squeezebox.call_method
data:
entity_id: media_player.office
command: playlist
parameters:
- play
- Playlist-Office
The whole Yamaha and MusicCast way of storing favorites is just so backwards that I was hoping to get around the issues by using the API myself. Sadly enough, there doesn't seem to be a way to tune in to a specific DAB channel yourself. All you can do is "next" or "previous". Sigh.
can you create a playlist that you load?
that prefills that info?
which is what I did for setting up remotes to trigger media players
DAB is a radio format. So I don't think I can do anything with playlists for that
I think I'm just going to do some network monitoring to intercept the commands the app sends to the device. There are things the app seems to be able to do that the specification doesn't mention
I worked around that by sending the stream url to the device via api, so web radio instead of DAB broadcasts but most german radio station have a web radio stream too
I guess moving away from DAB would be a solution as well
but you can save tuner presets and recall them by there preset number
page 7 in the documentation
(sorry, cat butt interfered on keyboard)
Yup, but when you store the preset via the API, you can't set its name. The app can do that in some way.
Recalling the presets works fine and it's what I'm doing right now. I was just hoping that API v2 would have some parameter for providing the name when storing 🙂
I need temperature, humidity and window/door sensors for my HA what is better Sonoff or Aqara or something 3rd?
this guy did a pretty good test of detection failure rate and battery life
maybe watch the video
tnx! gonna look
Looking for quality smoke detector that can be controlled via MQTT
any Zigbee2MQTT supported one then
i'm happy i was able to code up a double-click functionality for the Tradfri 5-button remote, need to extend it so it's not just double click on the center button.
https://epmatt.github.io/awesome-ha-blueprints/docs/blueprints/controllers/ikea_e1743/ was there not a blueprint like this for it?
the second one may be good, will look when i have a chance
i didn't find it when I looked earlier
i think my search failed on that because they have the special char - TRÅDFRI vs TRADFRI
no, I found that one, but it caused me issues
i had to tweak it for my hue remotes but i like it a lot
i have double&triple click working with tradfri 5 button with my blueprint, it's pretty straightforward once i figured out how to get it run effectively single-threaded (mode:single)
actually maybe i didn't use that one, i used the version of that one for the synfondisk dial and then gave up
that was causing me problems
Hello. Can anyone recommend a budget NAS? I am not sure what I am looking for.
Example:
Is SSD necessary or would HDD be sufficient?
Hard to determine the upper max of what is needed for storage, so is it easy to expand these later?
Is $100-$200 a good range to be looking for a starting NAS?
you need to figure out what you are trying to do before blindly buying something 🙂
Backing up my computer, picture storage, archive emails,.. that's all I can think of right now
Oh and backup my Home Assistant so it doesn't take up space on the mini computer
do you leave your primary machine on all the time? how much space do you think you need?
the synology/qnap's are all good
Main station? No. Mini computer, yes. It runs my HA.
Space is probably no more than 4 TB right now. Having the ability to expand later would be needed.
I will look at those 2
What do you think of a dock like this one?
SABRENT USB 3.1 to SATA Dual Bay Hard Drive Docking Station for 2.5 or 3.5in HDD, SSD. Hard Drive Duplicator/Cloner Function [Includes Both Type C and Type A Cables, Supports 10TB+ Drives] (DS-UTC2) https://a.co/d/cVp6YiB
if you want raw disks sticking up works great, not sure i would call that a NAS vs a temporary way to deal with a pile of HDD....
if you need storage, 4bay (or more) nas of some sort works well (raid 5 or variant). Though some value in a small 2-bay mirror nas.
if you don't want to run anything else on it, the Synology 220j isn't bad, if you want to put additional "things" on the nas, then the 220+ or similar. Pair for 14tb drives, and you are in for about 650-750 plus taxes - https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-3-5-Inch-Internal-Enterprise-ST14000NM001G/dp/B07T63FDJQ/
If you're just buying a NAS to have a NAS, think it through. You are buying storage for backups and to remove large primary storage from your desktop. If you are already backing up all your photos and apps in a "cloud" of some sort, you may not need a NAS. They come with extra work/energy and if you aren't careful will actually be worse off than using a cloud backup of some sort. They can give you a false sense of security if you aren't careful.
Agree with @jagged crypt about the NAS false sense of security. While they are fun to tinker with and all. If you don't have at least two in two deferent location then a fire, natural disaster or act of god will destroy your data.
Xiaomi Mijia Honeywell Fire Alarm Smoke Detector Sensor Bluetooth version can be integrated to HA?
ok, got it working, but wondering if I'll just keep the simple one I made, that doesn't require a helper test input entity. Right now I'm not trying to do more than play/pause, volume up/down, next/previous track. Then added "play specific playlists" with double taps. Anything complex you are doing with the remotes that you use past the day you set it up?
I'm sure i can rig up a mortal combat fatality sequence if I thought it would be useful, but .... 🙂
finally managed to get some data out of my Apricus (resol) Solar Hot water system
congrats, sometimes it the small things at the end of the day 🙂
hi! anyone know of a battery-powered outdoor camera?
with decent quality? i'm going to use it to create a timelapse
so i need to be able to program it to take a picture every xth minute
what's the battery life of that?
i need something that can be placed outdoors for a prolonged period of time
during winter (-20 C)
all winter
several months
4-5 months, at least
of course i can change the battery, but i wouldn't want to do that too often
I've got nothing. You could do it with a gopro and usb battery packs that you swap out every day or similar. But I suspect for the timeframe you are looking for, a better solution would make sense
yeah
i see these
they use a pir-sensor that consumes little power that in turn will trigger the internal stuff
how often are looking to take pictures for a timelapse?
but a camera like that that i could instead trigger every hour or similar
every hour should suffice
every hour during daytime
it's for a construction site
true enough
Is it possible to flash a Android TV Box with HA? (I have a S905W x96 Mini laying around)
it is possible but you probably won't like it. you need to install linux on it first
Why not? 😄
well, can you install linux on it?
