#general-chat
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but you have to pass data with specific timing, or else buffer it up. I don't think you can do this in real time
You could build your own Macropad, starting with this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/5157
For folks who want ready-to-go keeb action, we've got the lovely Adafruit Macropad with a 3x4 grid of MX+NeoPixel key switches - but for those who like to forge their own path, we now ...
i could but i really like what i have! :>
what audio are you trying to play? Is it just canned things?
i have a modem talking over UART with 8 bit PCM audio data
instead of sending the audio, you could send a command to sometihng else to play some audio that it has stored
its not canned unfortunately
you mean modem tones?
sorry i should clarify. its not modem tones, its live audio data
so you can think of it like i have PCM audio coming in over UART and i want to bring it to an i2s DAC but i only have an i2c peripheral :>
say more about what the audio is that you want to generate on the MacroPad
so this is where i thought the attiny might come in
okay. so im not generating it on the macropad , the modem is giving me the audio data live
right now i just play it on the builtin speaker with audiopwmio. but i wanted something better
I would just use another microcontroller board to receive the modem data and play it, and send control signals to it from the MacroPad. You could send them over I2C or use the STEMMA pins to send UART control signals.
in other words, offload the playing work to another board
do you think the ATtiny can do it? like the ATtiny1616 breakouts Adafruit sells
i looked for "audio" on the datasheet and found nothing so i dont think it has the i2s peripheral
no, it's not fast enough to do I2S. Use, say, an RP2040. It's cheap enough
or SAMD21 or 51 or Espressif
where is the PCM audio coming from?
i have a KB2040, could i power that from the stemma qt only?
and just connect the two stemma qt ports together
yes, but if you plug in the KB2040 to USB, you'll have the two 3.3V supplies fighting with each and you may damage something
that sounds scary and frightening
anyway, consider offloading all that instead of everything on one board
if you tie two board together, you must tie the grounds together, but don't tie the power supplies together unless one is going to power the other exclusively
but both of them can be powered fully over the red wire on the stemma qt port?
no current problems or anything
(or i guess only one board is actually powered by the stemma qt vcc)
The red wire is connected to the 3.3v supply on the MacroPad, so if the other board is not driving NeoPixels or something, it is probably going to be OK.
you could also use a USB splitter and plug USB into both boards
if so, cut the red wire on the STEMMA cable so you won't have the two 3.3V supplies connected to each other
i just want to make sure it won't overload the 3.3v regulator on the macropad
but i will just try it. you're right its probably fine
Are the guides at https://learn.adafruit.com/ open source? I don't see their markdown at https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_Learning_System_Guides or any other repo. I was hoping to submit some minor corrections
The code is in that repo, but the text is not. But you can submit corrections using the "Feedback? Corrections?" link in the left sidebar.
On the huzzah32, does the JST connector both charge the lipo battery when plugged into microUSB, and draw from the battery when its not plugged into microUSB?
The Feather Huzzah32, yes, that's right: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah32-esp32-feather/power-management
This is true of all Feathers.
thanks :D
Is there a way to calculate how many mA battery i need to power components for a given time?
If you mean mAh, then yes, if you know how much current the circuit pulls. (While you can calculate this for individual components, how they are arranged has a major effect on power drawn. For example, two identical resistors in series will draw half the current of one, but in parallel will draw double the current of one.)
Anyhow, if you can figure out the current your circuit draws (or average current for something like a microcontroller board), you can work out how long it will last on a battery that provides the same voltage as the supply used for your measurement, quite easily. mAh is a measure of how many milliamps you can draw and have the battery last an hour. In theory, my 20,000mAh USB battery should be able to provide 20 amps for 1 hour. Of course, it's peak current is actually 2 amps, so it can't actually do that. What that actually means it that it should be able provide 2 amps for 10 hours. So that 20,000mAh means that it can provide any milliamps * hours = 20,000, where milliamps can't be higher than 2,000 (2 amps). If you know how many milliamps your circuit draws, you would solve for hours like this hours = 20,000 / milliamps. That said, the batteries inside my 20,000 mAh USB battery are actually 3.7v, not 5v, and there's a converter to make it 5v. Odds are that 20,000mAh is referencing the 3.7v batteries, not the 5v output, which means I have to do some scaling math. 3.7/5 * 20,000 = 14,000. If my math is right (and I think it is), that 20,000 mAh battery can only provide 14,000mAh (a little less, due to conversion losses) at 5v. So instead, I would do hours = 14,000 / milliamps to get a fairly close estimate of how long my circuit will last.
I hope this helps. If it doesn't, it's probably time to find a basic electronics tutorial that covers Ohm's law and the fundamental equations of electricity. It really easy once you understand the relationship between current, voltage, resistance, power, and energy.
...
If you are using standard sizes of non-rechargable batteries, finding mAh capacity can be very difficult. Some brands post datasheets online, while others seem to just keep it secret. Rechargables almost always have mAh.
Note that voltage adds in series, while capacity adds in parallel. If you don't understand what this means, you shouldn't be connecting multiple batteries together to make them last longer. Instead learn basic electronics math and how basic circuits work, and then come back to this. Otherwise, you may accidentally destroy your circuit!
Oh, to calculate mAh needed for your circuit, just use milliamps * hours = mAh, where milliamps are the current you've measured that your circuit uses, hours is how long you want it to last (this can be a decimal value, if you don't want a whole number of hours), and the mAh solution will be the battery you want. Again, this only applies so long as the measured mA is at the same voltage as the battery. So if you measure the current when it is plugged into 5v USB, but the battery you want to use is a 3.7v lithium ion, the math won't work out. If you can, measure the current used connected to a 3.7v lithium ion battery you already have, and the use the equation, and that should give you the right minimum mAh value for a 3.7v lithium ion battery for the time you want it to last.
I hope that wasn't too confusing...
so
i have a 3.7v 350 mAh battery
an esp32 board that draws 200mA
and an oled display that draws ~35mA
Ok, so first add the esp32 and display together to get 235mA. The battery capacity is 350mAh, so 350mAh / 235mA = 1.49h. So it should run on that battery for around an hour and a half.
Note that this is a rough estimate. It will depend heavily on actual usage. If this is merely the maximum rated values, you'll probably get more than 1.5 hours for most applications. If it's an average rating, and you use the ESP32 wifi a lot, it will likely last less time (wifi uses kind of a lot of power).
It's common, with microcontrollers like the ESP32, to program it so that the wifi module stays off except when it really needs to be on. So if your use case allows it, you can initialize the wifi module, connect to the network, do whatever transmissions you need, then disconnect and power down wifi until the next transmission is necessary. (This is super common when using an ESP32 as a remote sensor. You'd create a buffer to hold sensor samples, and then only power up wifi and transmit when the buffer gets full.) This can extend the battery life quite significantly. Additionally, if the display can maintain the last frame sent to it (if I recall, OLEDs tend to prefer infrequent refreshes), you can put the ESP32 into a low power mode with a timer interrupt to bring it back up periodically. (Again, this is common for sensor applications, where you might want 1 sample a second, but it only takes a few milliseconds to capture and record each one.) So long as it doesn't have too much processing to do, this is another excellent way to reduce power usage and extend battery life. Tricks like this depend on your specific application, but if you can avoid having it pulling its full rated current for a significant portion of the time, the difference can be quite large.
Good morning y'all!
I'm helping a SWE friend of mine learn more about embedded design and hardware. I'm curious if there's anything better than the "arduino starter kits" available and with more structure around it.
Thank you!
If you want it to be Arduino, https://learn.adafruit.com/experimenters-guide-for-metro. Are you looking for a parts kit too?
we have a ton of education material in https://learn.adafruit.com and various starter kits. The "Circuit Playground" boards have a lot of devices on board.
doesn't have to be an arduino and I think a parts kit would be beneficial to cover any needs. I remember picking up a microbit back in the day as one of my first embedded devboards. Circuit playgound seems very well supported curriculum wise. thx!
If you're looking for curriculum, check out Professor Gallaugher's course on YouTube. He starts off with a CircuitPlayground Bluefruit and transitions to a Pico: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJJ76R_ry5T3X72OIDkMOXQIdmcvSkue
Circuit Playground "Classic" is only Arduino and code.org; don't get that by mistake. Circuit Playground Express is Arduino, CircuitPython, and MakeCode. Circuit Playground Bluefruit adds Bluetooth BLE.
See https://gallaugher.com for other materials, including PDF "lecture" notes.
will do thx! what's the difference between the skus?
"if I recall, OLEDs tend to prefer infrequent refreshes" - You are thinking of ePaper displays. OLEDs you can refresh as much as you want. The caution with them is they can suffer from burn in and dimming over time with use so you don't want to display something static 24/7 and if you can turn it off for large periods you won't "burn it out" so to speak. On the other hand, those little 128x64 models are cheap as chips, so who cares. Put them on a connector and if they start to go bad in a year or two, chuck it and get another.
Oh right, OLEDs are the opposite. You don't want to keep the same image for too long. Thanks for the correction!
Im planning on having a button "wake" the oled/esp32 to read an rtc module, then display it
Only happening when the button is being pressed
Then it should last a lot longer, since it won't be drawing much power most of the time.
How long do those lithium 3v coin cells last?
Don't know. Non-rechargables can be super hard to find data on, and they tend to differ by brand. You might be able to find an average or typical capacity with a web search, but if you know what brand you want to use, see if you can find a data sheet for the specific battery size from that brand. They don't always list capacity, but sometimes they do.
For rechargeable coin cells, the manufacturer probably has some public information somewhere on it, but again, it's going to be brand specific for the exact value.
Thank youu
check the current rating too. some coin cells are designed for low current draws. A CR2032 might have trouble supplying 235mA, for instance
I think that is for "GitHub Student" purchases. I am not sure if you need a special coupon or not. You could try putting it in your cart. You can ask support@adafruit.com what the designation means.
it's available from Digi-Key (and prob Mouser too), if you can't order from us: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/4333/11201431
perfect thx!
Desk of Ladyada โ uBlox Drivers, Struct Wizardry & L5 GPS โ The Future is Overhead!
https://youtu.be/692cmaCb-K0
OpenClaw wrote our 475-page uBlox GNSS library overnight. Opus suggested packed structs over byte parsing... smart. Also found new L1+L5 GPS modules on DigiKey: ~2x accuracy for $2-3 more. No RTK needed.
OpenClaw wrote our 475-page uBlox GNSS library overnight. Opus suggested packed structs over byte parsing... smart. Also found new L1+L5 GPS modules on DigiKey: ~2x accuracy for $2-3 more. No RTK needed.
can I hook a barometer to a BNO055
or is there a MEMS thatโs 10DOF while doing all the math still
Are the 8x8 matrix backpacks (product 1048) able to be used with common anode matrixes? The ones Adafruit sells seem to be common cathode, so I'm wondering if this is something that can be coded around to work, or if there's something in backpack wiring that would make it a no-go.
The HT16K33 chip used on the backpacks is designed for common cathode. See for example https://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?t=107944. There are some other chips that can do common anode. You can search for that. Or just get different matrices.
Thanks for the reply and the forum link. I guess my impulse Akihabara purchases will go unused a bit longer. ๐
I haven't been to Akihabara in more than 40 years but I know what you mean ๐
Great to see the Desk is back and y'all doing great. ๐ Digging out I imagine. โ๏ธ
I've had great success with the NEO-F10 L1 L5
One question though... Do you have any concerns with the recent purchase of uBlox to private equity firm Advent?
With linked companies like biometrics company IDEMIA, tracking comany NielsenIQ, and Maxar Intelligence I'm not sure how comfortable I am them adding precise positioning. I know that not how GPS/GNSS works but still... thoughts?
Hello there! @night crescent
Iโm a software engineer, while I lack hardware design experience, I do have some experience with microcontrollers.
If I wanted to build a custom board starting from ESP modules and sensors, where should I begin to design a single integrated PCB?
Are there services that help with the design phase as well, not only manufacturing? I know PCBWay, but it seems you need to already have the hardware design.
Thanks for help
not sure what you want. Do you want to say: "I want a board with ESP32-S3 module, with I2C connections to an LIS3DH accelerometer and an SHT41 temperature humdity sensor", and have somethign design something for you?
PLease don't ping @adafruit.
our designs are all open source. You can copy one and modify it. They are done in EagleCAD but you can import them into kicad
Ah ok, sorry, I didnโt think I was doing wrong. I mean more in general: suppose I have an idea, I connect some sensors with jumper wires and an ESP, and I build a circuit. How do I turn that into a board? Even if Iโm willing to pay for a service, are there tutorials to get started, or is it technically prohibitive for someone who isnโt in the field?
it's not technically prohibitive at all. Some PCB services have free design tools, and kicad is an open-source free design tool. Can you read and understand schematic diagrams?
There are tons of YouTube and web tutorials
The more sophisticated PCB design tools are pretty complicated; it's a learning curve, akin to learning Photoshop, etc.in terms of level of difficulty
there are newer AI-based design tools, but it's early days on those. I have no idea how well they do.
https://fritzing.org/ is the simplest - doesn't use regular schematics
besides https://www.kicad.org/, also https://easyeda.com/
Of interest for PCB making: https://pcbshopper.com/
#help-with-hw-design is the best channel for this kind fo thing
thank you for all the answers ๐ !
hi im new! wondering - are Ask the Engineer streams still a thing?
i found those interesting and to be honest i would also go on a shopping spree with the 10% discount code they provided there too
@rare ravine They are. There was a break for the holidays and they are ramping back up with episodes this week.
@rare ravine also - some of the other live streams have discount codes too, like 3D Hangouts and JP's Workshop
thank you!
So I've followed along with some of the LLM + PCB adventures you folks have gone on and posted about
in my own experimentation I'm oddly finding COPILOT to be better than Gemini!?!?
GPT 5.2 superior to both
Grok better than Gemini but worse than GPT 5.2
I'm sure this will all change in a couple of months but wildly different than what I was expecting
which model are you using with Copilot?
these models are currently available in Copilot (with costs)
Claude Sonnet 4.6 (default) 1x
Claude Sonnet 4.5 1x
Claude Haiku 4.5 0.33x
Claude Opus 4.6 3x
Claude Opus 4.6 (fast mode) (Preview) (requires enablement) 30x
Claude Opus 4.5 3x
Claude Sonnet 4 1x
Gemini 3 Pro (Preview) 1x
GPT-5.3-Codex โ 1x
GPT-5.2-Codex 1x
GPT-5.2 1x
GPT-5.1-Codex-Max 1x
GPT-5.1-Codex 1x
GPT-5.1 1x
GPT-5.1-Codex-Mini (Preview) 0.33x
GPT-5 mini 0x
GPT-4.1 0x
I'm using the free one tbh through their chat, I think it defaults to 4.1
It looks like 4o-era output
I do expect Gemini to be clearly the best in the end but it has made some silly mistakes so far like telling me to route input pins to gnd
The few anecdotal comparisons I've read have not been very complimentary about Gemini. People seem to prefer Claude or Codex.
claude is king. dont use anything else for coding imo
I see a few more than that, same vscode / GH-copilot entitlement (mainly aware of gemini 3.1 pro)
oh that was copilot CLI, my bad, need to try that again now that it's the Generally Available release. Yeah GH Pro for free (OSS), about 10-16$ worth, but I ran out yesterday ๐
I got my list from the copilot CLI app. I have a free plan that I think is like Pro, based on working on OSS.
can i hook a barometer to the BNO055?
not directly
Tryna get this repo to 5k stars so we can apply for a grant, please drop a star if it's something you are interested in. ๐
This is the spiritual successor to Winamp Visualizers (MilkDrop), updated to run on modern systems, to tap into the 10,000+ community presets that many of you remember fondly from Winamp days.
https://github.com/projectM-visualizer/projectm
maybe I can calculate height using only accelerometer
Try Claude Code through the command line and VS Code plug-in, itโs a completely different level compared to Github Copilot.
Spin up multiple agents, sub-agents, work with editable memory.md, etc.
This is real infrastructure, not an โAI Chatโ.. but more expensive.
Start in planning mode to detail the tasks, architecute and approach. Spin up an agent contextualized as a senior architect to challenge you and the plan, to poke holes, and refine it until itโs bullet proof and clear. Then spin up a team of agents, do regular code reviews, test simulations. have multiple projects in parallell in terminal windows and VS Code-projects. Constantly feed back to and improve memory.md with mistakes, improvement in processes, QA-routines.
this is odd
Yeah. Whatโs causing that?
Tab-separated values
Though I couldnโt tell you why X is jumping between 2 and 300. Maybe sensor failure or a loose connection? You could fix the spacing by zero-padding the value for consistent width
@AirHead why does it need to be directly attached to the BNO055? vs. just adding a baro as yet another I2C sensor/device
Would this sensor be fine for monitoring temp/humidity in a terrarium with a fogger/mister?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5064
Or do I need to upgrade to this:
The SHT30-Dย sensor has an excellent ยฑ2% relative humidity and ยฑ0.5ยฐC accuracy for most uses. Unlike earlier SHT sensors, this sensor has aย trueย I2C ...
what is the highest relative humidity level you are expecting? i think those are both generally limited to <80%
80 would be max
the PID 5064 one should be fine. at least as a starting point.
I bought a Circuit Playground Express a few years ago and only in the past 24 hours did I start tinkering around with it. It's a cool little microcontroller!
You likely want one that has a heater built in such as the SHT41. Per the datasheet...
"Possible Heater Use Cases
There will be dedicated Sensirion application notes elaborating on various use cases of the heater. In general,
the applications of the on-package heater range around:
- Removal of condensed / spray water on the sensor surface. Although condensed water is not a
reliability / quality problem to the sensor, it will however make the sensor non-responsive to RH
changes in the air as long as there is liquid water on the surface. - Creep-free operation in high humid environments. Periodic heating pulses allow for creep-free
high-humidity measurements for extended times."
Gmorning.
Is there a JP's product pick today?
No, he posted on the Adafruit blog
What's anyone building tonight?
Well I have to debug my NVMe drive randomly powering down and then the OS not being able to tell it to wake up...
But also puttering with a direct chat Discord-ish thing (we will end up having thousands of these, maybe I should be making a Discord clone aggregator instead)
and speculating about how to polish 3d prints with a rotary tool, since it didn't go the way I had hoped exactly
Sounds like a nice full evening!
Better clone that drive while you can,
how were you planning on polishing your 3d prints? What's the material?
so the main issue is with some PLA prints with supports that leave really nasty rough parts on the surface
the little sanding cylinders that came with the tool are probably only 60 grit, and it doesn't really seem to remove the roughness before basically boring through the outer layer entirely
I had a little more luck actually using a cutting disc to sort of shave/melt the excess support debris flat, but its not ideal
(also on PLA silks, it ruins the silk effect)
I suppose I could try the PETG/PLA support trick but I don't like the waste from the material swaps and I don't have toolhead swap capability
You have outter layers set to 3 at least right?
yeah
My printers MB bricked right as I was finishing calibrating it (was rebuilding an old printer)... I'm on the anycubix Kobra X list, but it won't be here for a bout a month... Then.... MULTIMATERIAL BABY!!! Can't wait.. Gotta get a spool of PVA. You just have it use pla right up to the end and have it tip, where it contacts with the pva (haven't tried it yet
you don't have a finer grit for your sander?
just what came with the tool for now
you mean do hand-sanding of the print?
or you mean actually modify the sanding cylinder?
What's your grinder look like?
its just a Workpro rotary tool
a dremel thing
little 1cm diameter sanding cylinder
What other abrasives do you have? It's pla, right?
yeah its PLA; I have heads that look like they're more for polishing metal or stone
the pepto bismol pink ones
I also have sanding discs, but I'm sanding a curved surface
I mean, you can put a small nail in it and make all kinds of bits if you need, or the core of the drum. You could even take a sink scrub, and twist it around the mandril and make something different to test.
that would be soft to boot, for the curve.
Just thinking out loud for ya.
like copper wool?
no, like scotch brite?
ah
the plastic wool
Even a piece of t-shirt is abrasive.
wrapped around it into a buff ball sort of piece.
I do have these felt buffing wheels but I figured it just wouldn't remove any plastic
maybe if I had like a polish paste or something?
it'll heat and smooth a bit. If you screwed 1 already grinding through you have a test piece.
heh, fair
so that's surprising to me, the buffing wheel actually does help a bit
and even just the buffing wheel can clearly overwork the PLA if I drag against the direction, so its definitely heating
I think at the lowest speed it doesn't melt no matter what I do, but at the second speed I have to be careful to not press too hard or go against the rotation
Hope it helped!
I'll try when I reprint that one I sanded through (a maraca)
Gmornin
Just spent 4 hours debugging an issue... which turned out to be an unfixed firmware bug in my budget siglent scope.
Turns out the 1202x-e's "i2c decoder" doesn't decode i2c addresses properly. It correctly ONLY parses the first 7 bits of the transaction for an address, but it's parsed as an 8-bit number with the MSB as the first bit
soooooo every address gets multiplied by 2
For example, here Iโm doing two attempts to talk to a (fake) device at address 0x01, shown as all 0s until the 7th clock pulse
Hallo guys, i got problem with my esp32 c3 super mini.
After soldering pins, my USB Type C doesn't work and got notification Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed). Before soldering, it's still work. Any suggestion?
I have done to make sure, no one short circuit.
There are two ways to interpret the address byte, and Siglent may be using "8-bit" addressing: https://www.totalphase.com/support/articles/200349176-7-bit-8-bit-and-10-bit-i2c-slave-addressing/
take some clear pictures of the top and bottom of the board and also say what you have connected it to
yeah, redaction of shame time. I thought the r/w bit was an immutable part of the spec
Even more shamefully, there's actually a setting buried in my scope to change the addressing mode, BUT TO BE FAIR it's not called out in any tutorials + is not obvious
and it should have used the better choice as a default
hello
before soldering the esp to the oled, i use breadboard to connection esp and oled, it working when i connect to the pc, i can compile the program.
But, when i don't want to use breadboard, i directly connect esp to oled using wire and soldering them.
after soldered, when i connect esp to pc again, the port got problem and can't read the port
The soldering is very hard to evaluate because of the glue or whatever. Check for continuity, and check for shorts. Maybe take it apart and try again. And double check that the wiring is correct
i have done to unsolder esp with oled sir, and try connect to pc first. but i got notification like this
๐ค The Otto Remix Challenge is LIVE!
Design 3D printable Otto mods, expansions, or characters and join the contest on Printables.
๐ Awesome Prizes
Join here:
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I've got a pc issue question. Anyone got time to talk to me for a few minutes about it?
Just go ahead and ask your question, so that people who might help can see what it is.
So I have the predecessor to the hp Omen. I know it's old. That's not the point.
A while back I did a routine power cycle. Power down wait power on. And it would not power back on. I'm about 90% sure it is a psu issue. As the indicator light on the psu comes on when plugged but no power is reaching the board I was wondering if I could get some thoughts on the issue before I either spend 60+ dollars on a "new" psu or 100+ pitting it in the sho\p
To specify it is not an Omen. it predates the Omen by about a year
two simple possibilities:
- Try replacing the motherboard battery, probably a CR2023 coin cell.
- try shorting the power switch pins, in case the pushbutton has gone bad.
I have seen 1 on various computers, not just HPs, in the past.
i tried the cmos battery. no difference. i cannot reach the power pins. as my hands are massive and the case is not that big. i can clkearly see the pins i just cant access them
even with needle nose pliers or something?
hold on ill show you
why do you think no power is reaching the board? have you measured the power pins at the power connector?
I have had a couple of motherboards fail over the years with similar symptoms
and also power supplies
The indicator lights on the board do not light up.
The fans do not cycle.
Nothing at all happens.
And looking at it now I might be able to reach the pins with a screwdriver
i don't know about HP but Dell tends to use non-standard power supplies and connectors, so you have to get an equivalent replacement. You might be able to find a used one on eBay or the equivalent for not much.
i found one on alliexpress the exact model for like 40 dollars this morning. so its a bit cheaper than i was expecting. but the problem that i face is my hands are huge and there is not a lot of space inside the case so i dont know if ill be able reach the connectors to plug/unplug them. so i may end up having to put it in the shop anyway
what is the part/model number? Are you in the US?
i appreaciate your help
good luck! too bad it isn't the easy stuff
it could be worse. i mean for a 13 year old pc shes done really good. i knew eventualy something big would go out
Using latex for analog circuits lab reports is just... awful
probably something I'll miss least about college
aw, I like LaTeX
was a favorite software discovery in college for me, like 'you don't have to know what a professional paper is supposed to look like layout-wise in order to make a thing that looks professional!'
Oh yeah, overall it's amazing to learn how to typeset somewhat-professionally and it's really levelled up my document game
That said...
Next step is translating all of this into the report, and I am so tired of entering equations at this point
Actually, gonna ask my TA if I can just say "X algebraically decomposes into Y, do it yourself if you wanna prove it"
Man, this has been the first semester where I really feel like an engineering major-- albeit an early one
last semester was just stats and a couple geneds, this semester is all
Questa My Beloathed
Looks like you are having a gate time.
yummy number
"No thoughts head empty"
She's a good girl though
And actually very smart when she wants to be
Oh I just noticed we have #pet-photos
Oops
hey which channel should i ask this - "I want to learn pcb design total beginner any resources/advice/suggestions welcome"
Maybe #help-with-hw-design ?
Hey everyone! ๐
I'm Kritish, a 3rd year Electrical Engineering student from India ๐ฎ๐ณ
I just wanted to say a huge thank you to the Adafruit team for featuring my open-source project '100 Days, 100 IoT Projects' in the Python on Microcontrollers Newsletter! ๐๐
It's been incredibly motivating to be recognized by such an amazing global community. I'm currently on Day 64 of my 100-day challenge, building real-world IoT projects daily using MicroPython, ESP32, and Raspberry Pi Pico.
๐ GitHub: https://github.com/kritishmohapatra/100_Days_100_IoT_Projects
Thank you Adafruit for inspiring makers around the world! โก
Desk of Ladyada - Cranking through a huge backlog! ๐งโก
https://youtu.be/Ox4vutcj0BQ
Zooming through a massive pile of new boards and libraries, plus hunting for an ICS-43434 I2S mic replacement - watch to see what we find!
OMG, we're zooming through the backlog... new protos ordered (STC31+SHT41, MT6835) and boards/libraries shipped (Terminal Block BFF, TMAG5273, VCNL4030, MAX44009, TMF8806). Still in progress: RV-8803, WF100DPZ, ADS7128, TMF882x, and VL53L5x, then we're back to Feather designs, home sensors, and Raspi accessories.
Is there any way to get a little bit of assistance with an order? I emailed support on Wednesday, and pinged again on Friday, and still haven't heard back. :\
we cannot help you with order stuff. If you are emailing support@adafruit.com, that is the right place. What are you asking about?
Order isn't going through due to an issue with my address, apparently. But I can't figure out what documentation they need in order to go ahead with it.
I don't know if this is relevant to you, but there are some things that cannot be transported legally by air in the U.S., most notably lithium ion batteries that aren't in an end product. This means that Adafruit can't ship those batteries to you, if there is no ground or water mail route. If you live in Alaska or Hawaii, they can't ship you lithium ion batteries.
The USPS used to have a ground route to Alaska, but they don't anymore, so even "USPS Ground" shipping goes through air to Alaska. Hawaii never had a ground route, and to my knowledge there are no longer any boat shipping routes used by any of the major (residential) shipping companies anymore (either to Alaska or Hawaii), except for exporting to other countries entirely (and even then, it seems to be hit and miss). So, if you are in part of the U.S. where full ground shipping isn't available, or if you are in a country that the major U.S. shipping companies only ship to by air, Adafruit can't send you lithium ion batteries at all.
If your problem is not related to this, then ignore it. This is the only thing I know about when it comes to Adafruit shipping, so I can't help beyond this. If the issue is soemthing else, hopefully you'll get a response from support on that soon.
Much appreciated! (And bonus points for introducing me to a new piece of trivia: no ground mail to Alaska. TIL.) Alas, this is not the issue I'm facing. My [US-based, military-associated] PO box is not being accepted, because it's apparently a "freight forwarder". This despite the fact that I've completed multiple orders with Adafruit already under a different address, so I'm clearly not trying to pull a scam. I've offered to do anything they want: send payment by check and wait for it to clear, hop on a Zoom call, offer my firstborn as a hostage... and it's just radio silence from the other end. :(
(I am not representing the Support department here.)
https://www.adafruit.com/shipping
We do not ship to hotels or mail forwarders. We may not be able to ship to PO Boxes depending on location or if there are known issues with the location. Not all shipping options are available to all locations. If shipping / billing names do not match or the payment method is outside the USA we may cancel the order ...
We ship free to U.S. Military APO/FPO addresses via USPS Priority mail. So no tracking, but, also, free. Make sure to enter city as APO or FPO and for state choose AA, AE or AP from the dropdown menu. And to make things really precise enter your full name, grade, and PSC or unit number.
I can't use APO/FPO (and it wouldn't help if I did), so it's being sent to my PO box. Billing/shipping names and all that match up, and the payment method is a perfectly normal US credit card (not prepaid or anything like that). I think what's tripping me up is the "if there are known issues with the location". Like, cool, let us say that there are. But from Adafruit's perspective, what's the risk? If the risk is that the order doesn't get delivered or gets stolen after delivery and that Adafruit would have to refund itโfine, give me the choice to pay in un-disputable funds (e.g. check or money order) and to sign in triplicate that I own all risk for the delivery going awry. If that's not the risk, then what is it? I can address it if I know what it is, but the silence is deafening right now.
Disclaimer: I don't represent Adafruit at all, so this is just me thinking in their shoes.
Assuming that customers with a "[US-based, military-associated] PO box" are rarely ever encountered, they might want to err on the side of caution, rather than taking on the responsibility of accurately differentiating between those addresses and other freight forwarder addresses.
If the above assumption is correct, then one option would be to order from an Adafruit distributor that's larger than Adafruit themselves. Hopefully those distributors would've already encountered customers in similar circumstances. DigiKey is one potential example: https://www.adafruit.com/buyfromdigikey
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : -
A "PO box" is an official USPS box at a post office. A "box" at a private mailbox location would not necessarily qualify. An official PO box associated with a freight forwarder would also not qualify. There are fraud reasons for rejecting these; we aren't doing this just to annoy you. I think Supermath101's advice is well taken in this case.
Right, I made that clear in the email. I'm using it as colloquial shorthand for an offsite managed parcel receptacle; the industry term is "PMB", short for "private mailbox". I'm aware of where I fall within the letter of the rules. My hope was that a reasonable person could take a look at the entirety of the facts and provide a route forward. Indeed, the error message that appears on the website suggests that such exceptions are possible; it says to contact support if an exception should be made. In the end, it appears that such exceptions are flatly never grantedโwhich is fine, that's a business decision that can be madeโbut based on two separate email threads with support, are also never followed up on after the first reply, which is a kind of crappy customer experience. Anyway, I needn't belabor the point any longer. Thank you to everyone who tried to assist in this channel. I've now elected to source the items I needed elsewhere.
Been working on a browser CAD project called WebCad. Itโs currently completely free and includes an AI generation tool, plus features like FEA, thermal analysis, CFD, and an assembly browser. Mostly just trying to see whether having modeling and early analysis in one browser workflow is actually useful, so Iโd be curious what people here think.
Professional parametric CAD in your browser. Create, edit, and export 3D models with B-Rep STEP support.
digikey is down
Hi, folks -- this is my first post on this server, so please tune me up if am posting this in the wrong place. I saw this on the blog today: https://blog.adafruit.com/2026/03/11/finding-a-low-cost-ported-pressure-sensor-the-wf100dpz/ Does this mean Adafruit will be making and selling this board? I am curious which kPa sensors will be offered? Thanks!
Yes, see here for a little demo of the development: https://www.youtube.com/live/Ox4vutcj0BQ?si=nG4EGQViJJeJ7BfS&t=585
OMG, we're zooming through the backlog... new protos ordered (STC31+SHT41, MT6835) and boards/libraries shipped (Terminal Block BFF, TMAG5273, VCNL4030, MAX4...
Is there any remote chance possible of sourcing a x0xb0x?
this seems a bit ooff topic, but is anyone using wireviz often? need to get help and there isnt a real community for the thing specifically, but this discord came up in a google search about it.
Does it matter which side you solder the header pins on a feather wing doubler. The screenshots on the store page show both sides being used for header pins. Am confused.
One side has some markings while the other side is without markings.
solder so that the screen printing is on top. As per this picture: https://learn.adafruit.com/featherwing-proto-and-doubler#featherwing-doubler-2301176
take a picture of what you did
I was looking at starting today and was going over the screenshots here. https://www.adafruit.com/product/2890 which shows both directions.
Print facing up makes the most sense to me. Thank you for the clarification.
I think all the "assembled" pictures show silkscreen up. There is one photo that shows you the back of an unsoldered board, but it's not labeled as "back".
So, in several previous years, I wrote up short articles for Pi day. They reveal some fascinating things about pi that really don't get any attention but deserve some. In case anyone is interested:
https://techniumadeptus.blogspot.com/2024/12/tau-vs-pi.html
https://techniumadeptus.blogspot.com/2024/12/pi-day-2016.html
https://techniumadeptus.blogspot.com/2024/12/pi-day-2018.html
This is part of a series republished from another blog.ย I wrote this in February 2016.ย The others were originally published on Pi Day of 2...
I recently wroteย an article ย on the subject of whether we should use ฯ (pi) or ฯ (tau) in circle related math.ย As a refresher, ฯ is the ra...
This is the third installment in my series of articles on ฯ.ย The earlier articles can be foundย here ย andย here .ย Due to lack of time, I a...
There's always that one piece of information you need, but isn't listed.
Looking for a power supply for the MHP50 hotplate on Adafruit, but none of the docs say if the barrel jack is center positive.
Perhaps I should just go with the USB C option.
Excuse me what do you guys recommend for something like this? https://www.instagram.com/p/DVJbxGED2xS/?hl=en
Making a foam helmet. I put some LEDs between some layers of poly foam and then covered that with craft foam. Then used a wood burner to carve into the craft foam to reveal the light inside. #crafts #cosplay #glowup
13488
Or this?
One second.
Over 100 hours of work and the power of delusion ๐ Materials in description โฌ๏ธ
1 inch PVC pipe
1 inch wooden dowel
10mm EVA foam
Contact cement
Dremel
Foam clay
Adafruit Powerboost 1000c
Adafruit ProTrinket 5V
4400 mAh lipo battery
22 gauge wire
Heat shrink tubing
3 pin slide switch
4 pin button switch
3 pin JST connectors
WS2812B LED st...
4510
@valid glen for the helm you could try a flexible filament laid into a channel and capped with a filigree. https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=noodles
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : Search Results -
Woah, those look sick! Thatโs the sorta part that makes me wanna design something just for an excuse to use them
Okay and the good thing is that they're cheap.
BTW where are the filigrees?
That is something you would have to craft yourself I think.
But you said capped with a filligree
I did. You asked for a recommendation.
You might want something custom. There is no standard template or product for that.
No I'm just confused on what you meant.
I thought it was some sort of wire cap.
ah no, I was thinking of a decorative covering that matches whatever design you have so it makes the lights hidden.
OH!
Well I've got that in my cart along with a weatherproof strip on sale I'm just going to make it slow and steady buying.
Funny thing, I'm basically designing a board for this exact purpose right now.
Well, I ordered the parts yesterday.
Is contacting support the best way to request a new product on the store?
or is the forums better?
I don't work for Adafruit, but the contact us has a category just for product suggestions: https://www.adafruit.com/contact_us
Thank you!
Wanted, a circuit or chipset able to handle radar as range detection and not a PIR function
Assalamualaikum everyone, I had made a bot on Poe platform, anyone can try my bot and can send their feedback....
https://poe.com/SahihOpen
๐ก Welcome! All-in-one AI: Smart AI for your devotional Islamic faith, authentic Islamic guidance, motivation, verified knowledge, and professional geopolitical perspectiveโadapted to any learning level.
I wonโt just give you answers โ Iโll ask questions, challenge your thinking, and guide you like a real-life tutor using real-world e...
Man, did something happen with WS8212 LEDs? 5mm clear through hole ones are suddenly significantly harder to find.
fwiw: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1938
(diffused, not clear)
Yeah, but I want the clear ones, that's the thing.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806040849067.html $8.60 shipped for 50-pieces?
I found that too. Data pins appear to be reversed, which isn't a big problem for my purpose.
Just weird that they've disappeared from Amazon and lcsc. Though lcsc had squat ones, and rectangular.
i was really confused which server i was in, for a second
Hey everyone!
Weโve been working on a portable antenna measurement system that tries to solve a problem many of us probably ran into: measuring radiation patterns without access to an anechoic chamber.
Instead of a chamber, weโre using a โdigital anechoicโ approach (time gating to remove reflections), combined with a fully portable setup (battery-powered + SDR-based + 3D printable structure).
The idea is to make antenna pattern measurements as accessible as NanoVNA made S-parameters.
Weโre preparing to launch it on Crowd Supply soon, but Iโd really love to get feedback from this community first
Does this sound useful for your projects? Anything youโd want to see in a system like this? https://www.crowdsupply.com/antenom-antenna-technologies/nanofarfield
#crowd-supply is probably the best place for it, and looks like your team already has it posted there ๐
HD-wf2 (ESP32-s3) based any one tried installing circuit phyton .
I knew how small the MHP50 was going to be, but it's still baffling to actually hold it.
Power supply came in. MHP50 certainly seems to work. I don't have any of my boards or components yet to do any soldering, but I can feel the heat coming off it.
I don't like how you can't see the actual temperature while it's cooling down, but it does have the status light, so I guess that's good enough.
the lack of static variable types in python is killing me
I want to modify this to a prescious metals API, but not sure where I even downloaded this ๐
It was a lot more basic when I got it and then I added some tweaks to colors and fonts
Refresh rate is worse with 64 height panels. I might rebuild the pico setup with 64x32 panels
I get the scrolling lines plus the tearing between parallel lines
Puzzmo
Unless the raspberry pi 5 library has been updated
I haven't plugged this thing in in like a year
I think it did get updated
Python package to drive HUB75 rgb matrices on pi5. Contribute to adafruit/Adafruit_Blinka_Raspberry_Pi5_Piomatter development by creating an account on GitHub.
is there a kicad module/library for adafruit components? x
no but I've had good luck importing the eagle files into kicad
ooo sounds good. I have ZERO experience with Wiring diagrams but im trying to create one for my project and I have no clue what im doing lmao
Thank you for this tip!
i can get the EAGLE schematics imported but i dont know how to use them as modules for a wiring diagram
are you just wanting a wiring diagram for general documentation?
or are you actually trying to make a PCB?
maybe fritzing is what you're after?
Once again, I forget just how tiny some of the things I'll be working with are.
Spend hours staring at the board design on my screen, and then I get the components in hand.
Oh boy are these boost chips small.
Hotplate was absolutely the right decision.
Hey everyone, Iโm an electrical engineer specializing in PCB design (schematic + layout), and Iโve been working with clients on Fiverr since last year.
Iโm looking to expand beyond Fiverr and was wondering if anyone has advice on where to find more opportunities or connect with people who need PCB/electronics work.
If you're looking to make the transition to selling PCBs you've designed, Tindie might be an option.
Thanks, I appreciate that!
Iโm actually more focused on helping people with custom PCB design rather than selling pre-made boards.
Do you have any recommendations on where I could connect with people who need custom PCB work?
@balmy flume oshpark.com might be an avenue for your services.
Thank you.
cadcrowd is similar to fiverr but more tech-focused; might be worth a try
And upwork might also be a place to look. It's more like fiverr than cadcrowd but I'm pretty sure there are PCB design gigs there too.
Anyone know where I can quickly get some adafruit jst connectors in NYC? Microcenter doesn't have it in stock.
do you really need specificaly adafruit?
because if not, i bet you can get some amazon same day stuff
You can get same-day delivery in NYC from Adafruit for something like $30 if you order soon. As an example, I put a breakout board in my cart, I entered an address in Queens and it showed up as a shipping option.
Or you could get overnight in NYC or overnight from Digi-Key.
Sadly priority can cost money
CODER WARNING - BEWARE PYTHON litellm v1.82.8 - COMPROMISED
CODER WARNING โย if you're doing any sort of work in Machine Learning LLMs with Python, and you have used the Python litellm library, version 1.82.8 has been COMPROMISED. It will grab all Personal Identifying Credentials off your project and send it to a remote server!!
See โ
https://x.com/karpathy/status/2036487306585268612?s=20
- and -
https://www.theregister.com/2026/03/24/trivy_compromise_litellm/
Software horror: litellm PyPI supply chain attack.
Simple `pip install litellm` was enough to exfiltrate SSH keys, AWS/GCP/Azure creds, Kubernetes configs, git credentials, env vars (all your API keys), shell history, crypto wallets, SSL private keys, CI/CD secrets, database
There's two Micro Center locations within NYC, and a total of five locations throughout the New York metro area.
Tried to Amazon prime it overnight but it still coming tomorrow
So was hoping there was a quicker way to get it without the 30 dollars
which cables are you looking for specifically?
I see STEMMA/QT 4-pin JST-SH cables in stock both in Brooklyn and Flushing Micro Center
some are Pimoroni and some are Adafruit. Both are fine.
Those were it
did you find what you needed at Micro Center?
Iโll check it out soon
Yeah I got it thanks!
Random thought, I only find an answer I'm looking for when I go to document my error.
I think that happens to us all. ๐
Gonna try to touch up electronics/soldering again after spending $$ on trynna do personal project and all of dem basically failingโฆ I got this DIY dice that comes w instructions 
Uhhโฆ
Mouser too:
Great post,
I was P. Eng. In Alberta, CAN. & at Queen's Uni. Kingston CAN, I was given a far simpler story: the iron ring was symbolic of all engineers rings coming off a single iron tube; it signified continuity, bond & strength. Simples.
Ockham's Razor: "among competing explanations, the simplest is most likely true."
Iron Ring โ Every Engineer In Canada Wears A Ring Because Someone Screwed Up The Math โThe Ritual of the Calling of an Engineerโ ยซ Adafruit Industries โ Makers, hackers, artists, designers and engineers! https://share.google/oeyTbVjKLGCyUuOE1
At least for Digikey, it looks like it's extending to their PCB manufacturing too. Typical turnaround for their DKRed service is 5-10 days.
Tomorrow will be 14 days for my recent order.
The actual components shipped pretty quick though.
So, I saw this Blog Post, and was wondering when it might be available?
no predictable schedule. just a nominal soon.
Yay, my boards shipped. Next week will involve hotplate soldering.
I am currently building my own turboencabulator does anyone know where i can get the spurving bearings for the panametric fan
Manufacturing of those components was outlawed decades ago.
You'll have to build them yourself if you can't find any on eBay.
I don't get it, how did you bend/curve the pcb?
probably with transtensional langtry device
just curious
Is this ESP-PSRAM64๏ผ
It's sanded but from the 6 that's barely visible on the chip it looks like where the numbers would go on an ESP-PSRAM64
Curious to know why ESP asked them to sand out the logo
The contents of the "Generic Datasheet" link seem to suggest yes.
Or more likely, it's a ESP-PSRAM64H clone.
๐คท
Does Adafruit ship to Canada?
I moved to Canada half a year ago for PhD
I am now suffering from severe Adafruit withdrawal symptoms
I am not sure, buy why not use one of their distributors?
Less price mark-up?
If the prices are the same then I want ladyada to have more of my money
https://www.adafruit.com/shipping says that they do ship to Canada.

I think I am gonna wait for the GigaChad release
Then I am gonna order them along with FruitJam
If the shipping happens to be cheaper from a distributor, you could add Adafruit-branded accessories onto the same order.
Digi-Key would certainly be a fine distributor to ship to Canada, and they have a lot of experience doing so.
they're practically on the Canadian border they're so far north in Minnesota
Ya'll have a great community here. I'm so happy I finally caved and dove into microcontrollers after neglecting it for over a decade. Mad props.
Agreed, Jesse. I too had neglected them for decades. Having lots of fun and enjoying/appreciating the community.
I recently found in a neglected drawer the Parallax Basic Stamp 2 MCU (ca 1995) and realized I had not done very much with it. We've come a LONG way since then.
Kind of the same thing for me. Back then (20+ years ago?) I was dabbling in Atmel's AVR line of 8-bits and using a BASIC compiled called BASCOM-AVR. Then kind of dropped it. Some 5 or so years back I had some projects in mind for around the house. I thought maybe Raspberry Pis would fit the bill but I found them to be too much "computer" and not enough microcontroller for what I wanted. I didn't want to have to mess with linux and PIP this and that just to get to a point where I could start to think about getting to my project. So like before, I put away the Pi Zero. Then a couple years ago, I revisited it and and because I wanted something easy to learn like BASCOM-AVR was back in the day, I ran across CircuitPython and ESP32-S2/S3 board from Adafruit. EXACTLY what I had been looking for. All the simplicity and ease of a basic MCU like the AVR chips or the Basic Stamp but with built in WiFi to (I didn't know the term then) IoT my projects which is what I had originally envisioned with the Pi Zero. But without the hassle of compilers and operating systems. Been a fun ride ever since that I have stuck with because I am actually creating useful things.
Hey, how long would it be to have part shipped to around middle Ohio area?
Thanks
from Adafruit NYC? Your choice on UPS or other shipping method, so could be overnight. Order before 11am Eastern time for probable shipment today
There are multiple Micro Centers in Ohio. Maybe one near you has the part you want, if you want it now. But they don't have a huge assortment
looking to "hire" anyone experienced with tinyusb and rp2350
one time off gig
Yh..
Just spent 3.5 hours trying to figure out why my filter sims differed from my professor's provided matlab code
Like, my simulated filters were getting a gain of 10 when his were 1, so I was going insane trying to figure out if there's some fundamental limit keeping responses (at least for passive designs) at unity gain
...turns out I just can't read
Oh how many times I've missed important documentation...
Classic RTFM.
Read The Flippin Manual
Can someone tell me what topic I should be asking in for this? I have a pyportal and need the output of 3v from the I2C connector and the language on the adafruit website is a little vague for what jumper I should be disconnecting
Cut the jumper between "5" and "V" (#1 below), and solder the jumper between "3" and "V" (#2 below:
oh i did the same thing :>
Thank you
Do you have to solder a connection from v to 3 or is it already supplying 3v after the connection is cut
you do have to solder the 3 and v
no, you have to bridge that connection. Look carefully at the picture and your board. There is a thin trace between 5 and V you have to cut. You replace that connection with the V-to-3 connection.
could you say what is confusing about the text here? https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-pyportal/pinouts#i2c-connector-3020489
Thank you Dan wasn't sure if there was a connection under the surface.
... The I2C connector defaults to 5V. There is a jumper you can cut or solder to change it between 5V and 3V. To change it to 3V, cut the trace between the middle pad and the 5V pad, and solder together the middle pad and the 3V pad.
also in the box:
If using the I2C connector, you must change the jumper on the pads labeled "5V3" to the left of the connector. Cut the trace between "5" and "V" and bridge the "3" and "V" pads. See the pictures and text below. The SAMD51 does not like it if there are even light pullups to 5V and may hang on boot otherwise!
In combination with the picture the surface mount pads aren't highlighted so I wasn't sure what the jumper actually was. An arrow or something saying the jumper is on the surface mount pads would be helpful
I think if that was there the instructions would make sense.
I agree with that. The pads are grayed out, but the connector is not. I'll see about touching up the picture
perhaps what I posted above is good enough!
Which channel do I ask for esp-idf
maybe #help-with-projects . Our experience with ESP-IDF is its use inside CircuitPython.
since circuitpython has a m5stick plus 2 build
Can I ask how you all keep circuitpython alive while its on battery mode
once I disconnect my battery my c++ sketch shutdowns
According to docs, maybe the program must set the hold pin (G4) to high to keep the device powered on battery. Are you doing that?
I already did
rtc_gpio_init(KALIVE_PIN);
rtc_gpio_set_level(KALIVE_PIN, 1);
rtc_gpio_set_direction(KALIVE_PIN, RTC_GPIO_MODE_OUTPUT_ONLY);
esp_sleep_enable_timer_wakeup(5000000);
esp_sleep_pd_config(ESP_PD_DOMAIN_RTC_PERIPH, ESP_PD_OPTION_ON);
esp_sleep_pd_config(ESP_PD_DOMAIN_VDDSDIO, ESP_PD_OPTION_ON);
esp_sleep_pd_config(ESP_PD_DOMAIN_RC_FAST, ESP_PD_OPTION_ON);
//esp_sleep_pd_config(RTC_SLEEP_PD_DIG, ESP_PD_OPTION_ON);
//esp_sleep_pd_config(RTC_SLEEP_PD_RTC_PERIPH , ESP_PD_OPTION_ON);
//esp_sleep_pd_config(RTC_SLEEP_PD_VDDSDIO, ESP_PD_OPTION_ON);
rtc_gpio_pulldown_dis(KALIVE_PIN);
rtc_gpio_pullup_en(KALIVE_PIN);
rtc_gpio_set_drive_capability(KALIVE_PIN, GPIO_DRIVE_CAP_3);
rtc_gpio_hold_en(KALIVE_PIN);
// 2. Power Management (The Secret Sauce for 24h battery)
esp_pm_config_esp32_t pm_config = {
.max_freq_mhz = 80,
.min_freq_mhz = 40,
.light_sleep_enable = true
};
ESP_ERROR_CHECK(esp_pm_configure(&pm_config));
Hmm, I guess ask in #help-with-projects then?
Update
Code was correct
Battery dead
Can't even run circuitpython without usb connected
I hope batteries aren't expensive
Just a heads up to any adafruit staff or higher-ups but this has said "coming soon" on the adafruit store for about three years or so and it doesn't seem like that was intentional lol https://www.adafruit.com/product/5654
Coming soon! Sign up to be notified when these are in stock and shippingNikola Tesla famously said, โIf you want to find the secrets of the universe, think in terms of energy, ...
Seems like a cool project too
send an email to support@adafruit.com and it will get forwarded on
Sad to have to rescale my main project but least my gps one will be able doable. I am excited to work on it, will have to obtain a soldering kit
I SURVIVED THE FOURIER EXAM :D
Next is the Z transform, and next semester has me taking active circuits + advanced digital design + advanced embedded systems! Those classes feel the most career-oriented, but MAN analog circuitry is cool. I really hope I have enough knowledge to diy somethin radar-related by the end of my degree.
Was it fast? ๐
Hi, I'm new here and I can't seem to find where to watch the Ask An Engineer. I can't see it streaming on any of the links on the website
Welcome! Ask an Engineer is currently on a break and they haven't shared when it's coming back yet
Okay, thank you
Can anyone recommend some strategies to study firmware design? I've been working on embedded systems for over 5 years. I want to learn more about how things should be designed, etc. Where can I read about this in further detail? Some documents or references would be welcomed.
Maybe elecia white's book and the embedded.fm podcast?
Their patron slack has a bunch of resources too
Cross-posting seems to be a frequent occurrence here but isnโt explicitly prohibited in the code of conduct. Maybe we could have a bot to enforce it?
Apologies if this has already been discussed
neither fast nor discrete! but it was algorithmically exact :]
Iโm a novice at all of this, however in curios about one specific thing. Would you say learning python is a prerequisite in this space? Iโm looking to get into comms/home security builds, but Iโm unsure of where to start. My only experience is with 3D modeling in blender, and recently FreeCAD(considering fusion 360)
I work a labor job but Iโm actively trying to make a shift, and advice on a starting point would be helpful.
Looks like there is a kids show on the website called Circuit Playground but it looks fairly short. Iโm definitely going to watch this series so that I can get a solid intro.
I have no experience in home security. I doubt they run Python but thatโs not to say they couldnโt. I use Python because itโs fun, and development goes fast when you donโt need to compile.
It seems a like python is used in a lot of pipelines but Iโll definitely want to incorporate it when building autonomous features like drones and motion trackers.
I think itโs going to be worth it to learn. So time to hunt for free lessons!
can I have like a public dns that's public?
I want pretty much to block/rendirect some sites. many use vpn but it can easily be turned off.
not self hosted, but something that's dirty cheap
PiHole and similar are usually what is recommended. But does that fall under "self-hosted"?
https://www.geckoandfly.com/27285/free-public-dns-servers/#google_vignette but these are not lists you can edit.
Python is not a pre-req. A lot of that kind of stuff is going to be embedded systems, which tend to use system languages like C, C++, Rust, etc.
I don't have a static ip, can't deal with ddns, as the ips are like shared between users. maybe a cheap 1โฌ vps from like ionos would work, but Idk if the hw would be enough.
a PiHole lives on your local network, on your side of the router. You choose it as your DNS server.
Is your goal to try to, say, have filter the content on your children's mobile phones when they are out of the house?
exactly, but without using a vpn, as it can be turned off, way to easily
although even a public dns can be turned off... I wonder what android for business does give, but I don't wanna pay a subscription
so this is on android phones?
Android(and iOS) phones can be set up with parental controls, to do the kind of filtering you want: https://support.google.com/android/answer/16766047?hl=en
I think there are also business-style management options for Android, so you lock down the phone like it's a company phone. iPhone has similar
yes, but not quite, I'd prefer doing it through a dns
yes, but they are all on subscription...
thanks though
how come there is no files for the https://www.adafruit.com/product/5800 ?
like the eagle cad pcb files and such like on most other products
These are xref'd here: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-qualia-esp32-s3-for-rgb666-displays/downloads
ahh, thanks!
Excuse me I'm aware that you're not on right now but I did some searching on the ada fruit website and I just saw that you guys accept checks for oders over 100 bucks?
Worth sending an email off to support@adafruit.com too, I'm sure they won't respond until Monday but their support is great ๐
that is what I was going to say; write to support@
Cheques, for online orders?
I can't say I've ever heard of that.
Okay just contacted them they said it's for schools only.
Does anyone know why discord suddenly marks a whole section of channels as having unread items when there are no new items (sometimes for months in the past)? It has happened on both an iPhone and my Mac OSX discord apps (apps not web). It just happened with my adafruit Help With and Topics Section but not the Welcome Section.
Yes. Itโs from a bot spamming every channel. A moderator goes and kicks the bot, but the channels remain โunreadโ
Does anyone have experience with Adafruit IO that could please help me with likely a simple issue?
Anyone know how to get an arducam 5P up and running on a Pico? Preferably using MicroPython or CircuitPython... I haven't really found good guides online that weren't using an Arduino.
my uni's cubesat team is doing exactly this lmao, what a coincidence
side note: z transform stuff is evil
Any tips ๐
Looking for some assistance getting started with my first Adafruit project. I have experience with C++ and I'm using the included example code in the basic arduino libraries, but I'm not getting very far. Been troubleshooting, looking up examples - trying basic examples for a single library, etc for almost a week now and getting pretty frustrated with lack of progress. Pretty sure this stuff isn't supposed to be that complicated Any help is appreciated.
you could ask more specific questions in #help-with-arduino . Say what you're doing, with which boards and libraries, etc.
There is a course on Arduino programming: https://learn.adafruit.com/experimenters-guide-for-metro
Thanks Dan. Iโll post in there later this evening.
trying to drive a 3 phase BLDC
That sound ๐
Iโ sโ โ lโ iโ kโ eโ โ tโ hโ oโ sโ eโ โ aโ nโ nโ oโ yโ iโ nโ gโ โ cโ aโ rโ sโ โ oโ nโ โ tโ hโ eโ โ rโ oโ aโ dโ โ wโ iโ tโ hโ โ lโ oโ uโ d eโ nโ gโ iโ nโ eโ โ sโ oโ uโ nโ dโ โ bโ uโ tโ โ mโ oโ vโ iโ nโ gโ โ sโ lโ oโ wโ lโ yโ
I am new to Digikey and their PCB maker wanted like $300 to make 4 25x25mm 2 layer boards. I got 3 from Oshpark for $5.60. So is there something I am missing when setting up a board order or is that the norm for Digikey?
I ordered some parts from Digikey so I was curious about their PCB maker stuff. Saw the price and was like NOPE.
You definitely missed something. I ordered boards recently from them and got 5 for about $12.
Their DKred service has quite a few restrictions on it though, including the color of the solder mask.
It does tell you what is making you ineligible for DKred though, so I'd say try again and note what it says.
will look for that thank you
The board is rather basic so I just uploaded like it asked and the offers that came back were like I mentioned I will look to see if I was out of bounds.
Oh, also boards will require that you make an account with them, and they have to verify you. Verification is supposedly mostly automatic. Certainly when I did it they just verified me after a few days.
ah ok
Just giving you a heads up in case you were really hoping to order them this instant.
it looks to me like the low-cost DKRed service is gone. There is now very little mention of DKRed on the digikey website
I ordered the parts I needed from Digikey and then used Oshpark to fab the boards. Thank you for the information. I am still learning.
i think asking DigiKey directly might get you a better answer.
Weird, I just used it a few weeks ago
Now https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/dkred (found by search engine) goes to https://www.digikey.com/en/pcb-builder/?p=dkred, and shows crazy prices. The latter page says nothing about DKRed. I don't see any top-level links to it
Disappointing.
Now I'll have to order from 3 places.
Digikey for components, OSH Park for boards, OSH Stencils for the stencil.
I text-chatted with a live agent at Digi-Key, who said that the (overpriced) "PCB Builder" service replaced "DK Red". No further info.
Bleh.
Morning Danh IIRC you guys would be able to help me out with some purchases? I'm trying to make this kind of helmet but in blue with the glow. https://www.instagram.com/p/DVJbxGED2xS/?hl=en
And here's what I have so far from the company.
TBH the nOOd I got was a wee bit small for my project.
So I will need some advice on what to get especially when it comes to the batteries and chips needed to make blue lights.
QTpy form factor either a RP2040 or an ESP32-S3. Not sure about batteries because I am not sure about how long the lights would be running. Blue does not take as much power as full bright white.
the 3867 takes 9-12v. The nood you chose is 3V. Read this about powering: https://learn.adafruit.com/noods-uberguide
for the 3v noods, you would need to use 3 in series.
The Instagram link ou gave does NOT use filaments, as you know: it scrapes away something to expose a glowy thing underneath, so no filaments needed.
What kind of fillaments are you talking about? I just feel that the noods alone wouldn't give the glow I'm looking for in my helmet that the instagram link showed.
Sorry I'm confused about this.
In the instagram video, the maker is burning away the painted foam to expose the glowing plastic underneath. There's some translucent plastic underneath that's illuminated. The glowing lines are not directly lit: they are illuminated indirectly.
quote:
For the symbols I put some LEDs under some polyethylene foam to diffuse them and then covered that with thin craft foam. Then using a wood burner I carved into the painted craft foam to reveal the lights underneath.
so it sounds like the foam is illuminated just by one or more regular blue LEDs. The foam diffuses that to be more uniform. e.g. something like this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/847
you could ask the maker more about the LEDs.
@valid glen๐
https://learn.adafruit.com/all-about-leds would be helpful
thanks
I'll look more into it and the battery packs and everything else I'll need later.
Right now I need my left eye to heal a bit first due to a superficial corneal abrrasion from a dust speck.
Tindie has been down for a while: https://www.techadjacent.io/p/tindie-outage-and-jc-devices-electronics - Hope they get things fixed soon!
@fair summit@rigid whale
Hey, update on DKred now that I got home and checked after logging into my verified account.
Looks like DKred is actually still available, but now you have to explicitly turn it on in the PCB builder.
My guess? Given that the new toggle also actively disables all unsupported options (except the stencil for some reason), they were getting too many complaints from people trying to use it, and not configuring it correctly to get the cheaper rates.
Why support said that the PCB builder replaced it? I think they were confused, or didn't know about the change.
wow, I didn't see that tiny toggle. When I text-chatted to Digi-Key, the agent said they had to talk to someone else, and gave me that erroneous info.
Yeah, I'm... not actually sure it was there when we were looking at it earlier.
Or it didn't show up when I wasn't logged in.
i wonder if my query triggered something happening there
or it was just not done or broken
Yeah, that toggle is the key. You turn that on, you get the discount rate. If I recall correctly, it used to be that, if you altered the settings in "Options & Specifications", the "DK Red" switch would silently turn off, and the prices would go up. They seem to have changed that behavior now so that you need to purposefully turn off the switch before you can alter any of those options.
Thanks. did you see this toggle a while ago? Did we just miss it a few days ago, or did they add it?
It is interesting that they seem to be de-emphasizing DK Red. There are no direct links anymore to it, and I think it used to be more visible from the top-level menus.
I think it's been around for at least a year. And, yeah, I'm pretty sure DK Red used to be a separate product but DigiKey later merged it into PCB Builder as an option. The last time I went looking for it, I just googled "dkred". The landing page (https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/dkred) still exists, but I don't see a way to navigate to it from their menus.
The landing page (https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/dkred) still exists, but I don't see a way to navigate to it from their menus.
Yup, exactly my impression also. I will ask about this. We of course have good contacts with DigiKey, though their reasons may be private.
Good Idea Danh, I just need the right battery pack and wiring to attach those tiny LEDs to for my helmet. Might actually get 3 packs of LEDS just in case because more is better than too little.
I've already got the 5 wire pack and wire cutters and all and Kamui cosplay has a great tutorial but you know I still need switches and stuff.
you will need resistors, as described in the LED guide I linked to, to limit the current to the LED's. That is the simplest way. There are also things like this: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-tps61169-constant-current-boost-converter-for-leds, but it's more complicated (the LEDs will need to be grouped into series-connected groups). For a first project, resistors are good, and simple, and you can experiment with changing them to adjust the brightness.
Like this? https://www.adafruit.com/product/6354
But what about the batteries and switches?
I need one that's not too bulky and can fit a coin sized battery or two.
how many LEDs do you think you need?
I have no idea personally. But what do you recommend based on numbers?
I would only turn on the lights for a picture a photoshoot or a walkon in a contest or judging room.
if you are trying to duplicate the instagram project, then I'd ask the maker of that project how many they used
blue LEDs need about 3.0-3.4V, at 20mA. Red LEDs need about 1.8-2.5V at 20mA. I'm just telling you this because some tutorials assume you are using the lower voltage red ones. Green are in between.
so read the guide https://learn.adafruit.com/all-about-leds, but use a higher voltage for the computations for the resistor values. The guide assumes red LEDs, but shows you the computations.
you will learn how to apply Ohm's Law.
here's another guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/lets-put-leds-in-things
and there are many non-Adafruit guides as well
But I just want a switch and battery pack recomendation.
these packs have built-in switches. I'd choose a 3-cell pack so you get adequate voltage for the blue LED's
a fresh alkaline battery is 1.6V, will gradually drop over its lifetime
coin cell https://www.adafruit.com/product/783 is smaller, batteries won't last as long. Will be 6v so needs different resistors
Good as long as I can replace the batteries it shouldn't be a problem.
you may need to experiment with the resistors because the coin cells hav limited current output
Resistors like the one I linked before?
Oh wait you mean these.
Oh man math ๐
math is your friend here
The Adafruit guides go through the math step by step. It's just subtraction and division
if you do a websearch for led resistor calculator you will get hundreds of results
buy maybe some 100 ohm, 220 ohm, 470 ohm. The higher the value the dimmer
or buy a larger assortment elsewhere
100 ohm resistors could work.
try it all out with alligator clip leads or on a breadboard before you start soldering or assembling. Experiment first to gain confidence. Follow the guides
You mean these?
buy a pack of 220 and 470 also. yes
At least they're cheap.
do you have a breadboard or alligator clip leads?
In addition would this thing be enough to attatch them too? https://www.adafruit.com/product/6354
you don't need that
What's a breadboard?
And aligator clip leads you mean like in the picture I sent then the link?
we are out of stock of a lot of stuff, sadly
those short ones are in stock
OH GDI! STOMPS ON GROUND
Hopefully I can adjust them.
they are just shorter; for experimenting they will be fine
some are in stock at Digikey. Do you have a Micro Center or other electronics store near you?
where are you? (generally speaking is OK)
but really, the short ones are fine for this, and probably neater
On Long Island.
And as for resistors I think Kamui explains it in this video too.
Learn how to make costumes: https://www.kamuicosplay.com/books
Like our videos? Support us: https://www.patreon.com/kamuicosplay
LEDs and electronics are super fun, but can be easily intimidating. So in this video I give you and easy and beginner friendly start into the colorful world of LEDs. I start at the very basics and I hope it will show ...
There is a micro center in westbury
but just keep it in mind. you can get what you want mail order from us
I guess they can help out and Kamui's tutorial even shows I can still get a small switch while using a bigger battery. I just got to get creative with the battery pack.
those battery packs I pointed to have built in switches
Sorry Danh, it's my first time and I'm frigthened.
Very frightened.
being a n00blet is scary
and having a tiny cornea abrasion doesn't help.
here is a breadboard in stock: https://www.adafruit.com/product/239
you are not going to hurt yourself, but you need to take the time to play with things before you build
fair point.
I don't know it would be hard to go since my brother is always relying on me for the dog
It's a long story plus I'm an introvert.
i can't help you with that; it is between you and your brother, but don't get taken advantage of
Oh great the closest ones are in the city ๐ซ
what town on LI?
NYC
no i mean where you live
Nassau county but that's all I'm telling you
I don't feel comfy giving out too much info since I was doxxed in 2019.
I would have to find a day of the week while my brother isn't at work because if any of us leave Freyja (my dog) at home for any amount of time she will use the carpet as a toilet even if she just went.
ok, never mind about that. shopping list:
pack of blue LEDs
packs of 100 ohm, 220 ohm, 470 ohm resistors
breadboard linked above
alligator leads linked above
choose one or more battery packs with switches linked above
do you already have soldering equipment?
Thanks. I'll save that for later. I'm still waiting for my cornea on my left eye to heal up a bit. I can at least pack my order beforehand.
And yes I bought one through Kamui's recommendation on her youtube channel.
I'll let you know when I order them and get them.
one or the other is handy for holding things when soldering
I've got that too.
do you have a multimeter?
Wait are those important?
really handy to figure out what's going on. measuring voltage across the LED, measuring current, etc. makes debugging much easier. measuring whether batteries are dead or not, etc.
would you do sewing without a ruler? no
Good investment and it comes in handy for testing batteries for something else as well.
Thanks for the rec.
I can get that later too.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/850 is in stock. also available at all hw stores
I think I can get one second hand too.
I like trying to be more eco friendly with electronics.
You know prevent them from winding up in a landfill.
i looked on long island craigslist but it was not that -- no bargains
I'm thinking more so mercari or Ebay on one hand but you know I feel any will work if it still works.
Anyway I got your shopping list and I think I'll order as soon as I have my fabric orders too, this weekend I'm going to experiment with acid dyes on raw silk and horse hair and I do mean actual hair from a horse's tail (note no horses were harmed in the acid dye experiment)
While you're good at LEDs and electronic wiring dying unusual material also takes a lot of effort especially to get the right color.
on gmail (user, not bussiness/stuff alike, free class), do I have a way to allow a spoofed mail? I don't see it in spam or anywhere, in other mail providers it appears, so it's Gmail that's blocking something
blue origin with it new glenn mission ng-3 successful launch and booster landing
do you mean an incoming spoofed? It does SPF, DKIM, and DMARC checking, but I don't know the details. Or do you mean you want to send via gmail from a non-gmail address?
yeah but it doesn't let you extract things from their antispam, mamaged to fo it in another way anyway
We got Bella a haircut
Before:
After:
Now she has a nice short coat for when it gets hot out
And it's much less messy
It is like it is a completely different dog.
I said the same thing
For next time, there's a dedicated #pet-photos channel.
My bad
I'm not a moderator, but I figured it's a good idea to be organized by channel. ๐คท
Hi, I want to start using Arduino sets. Which set should I buy first?
@autumn dawn Nano R4
Thanks
A reason to check everything .This is a brand new commercial board that failed inspection on arrival. Even if its brand new doesn't mean it works.
Hello everyone Can I build a game console project using an Arduino Nano R4 board?
It's possible to do a game console but it won't be like a retropi or emulator.
discussing in #general-tech . Please don't post a query in multiple channels
Polarized SMD components: "The cathode will be the side with the dot or other discrete marking."
Me: "Sounds good."
Polarized through hole components: "The cathode will be the side that is flat, has a marking, or has the shorter lead."
Me: "That works."
Vishay side view LEDs: "We're not putting any markings on the component."
Me: ". . ."
And no, it's not just that picture. If you read the whole document, literally the only indication of which one is the cathode is the package dimensions technical drawing.
You also wouldn't necessarily be able to tell, even if you know how LEDs are built from looking at the internal semiconductors because this is the tinted and diffused model.
(might also explain why it's discontinued)
I feel ya. Those markings are a boon for proper placement.
Tindie website is down for 3 days already. They say it is "planned system upgrade", but very clearly something went wrong.
I am seriously thinking about alternative platforms. Anyone has experience with selling electronics on Etsy? or other platforms?
(I am not a big fan of eBay, but maybe that is an option too)
Oof. People called it when the acquisition closed ... a few years back.
PyCon US 2026 is coming to Long Beach, California, May 13โ19, and this year it's practically in our backyard.
Registration is open now:
Corporate: $899 | Individual: $469 | Student: $139
This year's program has two brand-new tracks that are worth the trip on their own:
The Future of AI with Python: a full day of AI talks on Friday, May 15. LLMs, voice agents, edge inference, and what it all means for Python developers right now.
Trailblazing Python Security: the first-ever dedicated security track at PyCon US, all day Saturday, May 16. Supply chain, SBOMs, zero-trust, and more.
Both tracks are free with a full conference pass.
Register here: https://us.pycon.org/2026/accounts/dashboard/
I've sold a used condition Raspberry Pi 2 Model B on Facebook Marketplace, in person.
is there a way to skip all windows crap that appears on the first time of booting windows?
iso+auto run xml takes way too much time.
using an hid device to simulate key presses, isn't really ideal, gotta spam timeout and hope it works right
Hand soldering SMD parts. Anyone have a particular order they prefer in regards what goes down first? Smallest to largest? Largest to smallest?
Thinnest to thickest
Any particular reasons why?
It makes things a bit easierโit's hard to, say, solder in a resistor next to a big chunky inductor.
Thank you for the clarification. Much appreciated. Makes sense.
Speaking of I just used a hot air gun to salvage a bunch of SMD parts and I can't help but feel extremely cheap ๐ especially considering I'm going to have to go through and sort them all and I don't even have a microscope. I don't know I just really felt bad of throwing the circuit board into the e-waste bin when they were still components on it that I could use, even though I'm not even sure if I'll ever use them
I personally prefer through whole components but with everything being compact nowadays it's hard to find through whole components to salvage from stuff everything's SMD now which is good for all the small tech we use but for someone who wants to play around with them as a hobby it just makes it frustrating
I don't think the components I'm using for my project even have designations printed on them. Well, the resistors and capacitors at least. The diode has some text on it, but the resistors and capacitors are just tiny unlabeled black or beige bricks.
Fortunately I made a point of filling in the component names from my schematic when ordering from Digikey, so not only do I know what is in the bag, but also where it goes on my board.
there are these for breaking out a standard sized smd part https://www.adafruit.com/category/198
Mmm... Pebble Time 2
anyone know of a place i could buy a nice laser head that i could throw on my old 3D printer to convert it to a laser engraver / cutter ( yes i know it's not just that simple )
would a solder suckker get solder out of through holes
ive mmanaged to press it into one accidentally and i cant get it out
also somehow i manage to burn myself every time i use a soldering iron
Well that's a new level of frustrating... The specific-length USB cable I bought for a project is 5cm too short. So close and yet so far... Time to wait for another one to arrive from China
Yes, that is a common use for solder sucker. Depending on what you are trying to do, you can also just heat the hole and push through the component while the solder is melted.
Solder wick seems to suck for through hole stuff
Or maybe im bad
I feel like wick would be better for smd stuff
You may already be already using a recent vintage solder sucker but I was using one frok 20 years ago. I recently purchased and received the Adafruit Engineer Professional Solder Sucker https://www.adafruit.com/product/1597 and it sure is a big improvement. Now I can one handed reset the plunger. My old one's operation resembled resetting a really high strung crossbow.
I too find solder wick to be less than helpful.
Yesterday I put too much solder on one connection and just used my new solder sucker to remove all of it and then redo with more care. I also cleared a through hole of solder easily for another connection redo.
Well, it was an oled screen, and the solder sucker worked but my helping hands (evven with tape wrapped around them!) shattered some of the glass. Ugh
oh sorry!
they don't like pressure
well, that is not in display area, so maybe, if the crack doesn't spread. Certainly worth trying
Seems like a small amount of the crack is in the connector area thing
if there is a conductive path on the glass, it may hae broken. Or it may be below the glass
If that crack extends to the trace/ribbon below then you have a broken part. Looks like a SPI ribbon but split into two strips.
yikes, it's in every channel
That's how it works yeah
lmao the spam screenshot misspells "successful"
My servers that i'm admin in trick scambots by having a bot assign users a role after they do something, and restrict everyone from seeing anything but the not catcher channel and the channel that you're supposed to react in
The bots never verify themselves as real people and just spam the hidden bot catcher channel
BTW the verification thing is literally just a button that gives you a role
The bot catcher channel and lack of visible online users usually breaks the bots
Sometimes the bots will scrape the usernames of everyone and then do mass DMs... That doesn't work with the right permissions
Thanks @stuck moth โค๏ธ
We need a bot catching system like I describe, that's the first of a flood ๐
Thanks for the mod ping
I haven't seen one of those here in a while, and the ones hitting the servers I'm in are worse than usual
Discord automod has been pretty good. We used to rely on dynobot more
We have no automod, they just get caught in the bot catcher channel
We can look at switching stuff up tomorrow
Anyway, fun fact of the day:
Dolphins use ultrasonic vibrations on their skin to swim faster
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41090886/
Research on dolphins dates back nearly 90 years to the well-known Gray's Paradox, which proposed that dolphins are capable of swimming at speeds that seemingly exceed their energetic limits. Inspired by microvibrations observed on dolphin skin, longitudinal micro-ultrasonic waves (LMUWs)-a form of d โฆ
that's ducking cool
Iโm new here just wanted to say hello and I hope everyone has a great day ๐ธ
Finally this thing says something over like 35
P5 64x32 panel from adafruit. I love how light they are
Hey, I'm planning to make something similar, but with indoor and outdoor probes.
Love it
That way you don't have to ping off a server every ten minutes and it's more accurate
I was looking at the Tetris animation library which is what the Tetris clock uses, but the Tetris clock project that I found is outdated in the syntax
Plus they never made it for adafruit graphics. They made it for PX matrix
So it's basically a matter of studying that code and porting it over to adafruit graphics
The dma library had an example for a gif player, but it used spiff or SD which The matrix portal is neither of those. So I was able to take the GIF player project for protomatter and somehow protomatter was compatible with the dma library after some tinkering. I saved my work but I can't exactly remember what I did
Mostly just cutting and pasting the wiring setup but there was more to it than just that
But the dma library has brightness control and I can tie that into the buttons
Hello everybody. I was wondering if somebody happened to have the RP2040 PIO simulator made for java? Should be called rp2040pio_server.jar. Would be awesome if I could avoid installing a few SDKs for this one thing just to compile it.
Does anyone know if the colored cap can be removed from these buttons https://www.adafruit.com/product/1439 so I can place a decal Under them?
if you get no answer here, ask in https://forums.adafruit.com
that is the official support channel
will do thanks
Also, the newer matrix portals I believe do not have an RTC in them. So for time you would still have to ping from Google or ada
I think the only driver that had it was like the old matrix hat for rpi. I started with the old stuff and moved to the new stuff ๐ญ
I've already got an RTC from the current time keeper I made, so that's no biggie.
when i set the angle of my servo it "jiggles" a bunch around the end angle unless i hold on it a little to slow it down and then it stops. its like it keeps trying to correct for the rotation caused by the mass of the thing its turning (a camera) but im fine with it not trying to rotate at all once it reaches the angle. can i do that? maybe in cpy i can only pwm the servo when rotating it?
Gotta pick up another USB C power supply, and a nice long cable for my time keeper project. I want to put it up near the ceiling, but just about all the power supplies I find come with short cables. Typically 1.5 or 2m. 2m might be long enough, but it'll be taut. So I'll need a supply that'll do 3A at 5V, and has a removable cable so I can stick a 10 foot one on.
Fortunately, the Anker one I got to run my hotplate fits that description.
Just gotta get a second one.
Does anyone know where I can find this one thing I remember it was a tab in the adafruit website but it had like a whole bunch of pre-made songs to choose from
ofc the LED buttons I need are sold out ๐
A Blocks / JavaScript code editor for the Adafruit Circuit Playground Express.
Anyone know when the ADA5991 comes back in stock or if there's an exact alternative
Did you see the new linux cve
everyone can be root now
This is bad right
The https://learn.adafruit.com/usb-pd-hacks guide lists the alternative products.
hey hiI randomly came across this tech fest in Bangalore called ASCENT (May 15-17), and ngl I thought itโd be mid at first, but it actually looks kinda solid. Itโs got a bit of everything: 24h hackathon, chance to build an MVP and maybe get some funding, a startup pitch event with a prize pool, plus robotics stuff like Robo Soccer and Robo Race. Thereโs also Prompt Wars thing hosted by Google and some ML, CP, and cybersecurity events. Theyโre listing sponsors like Google, TogetherFund, Eyecandy Robotics, and VorFlux AI (found this on their website btw), which lowkey makes it feel more legitโฆ but idk, could still go either way. Itโs open to both students and working professionals, and yeah.. just stumbled on it and did a quick check.
Anyone here been to stuff like this before? Is it actually worth pulling up, or does it end up being all hype no delivery?It says free registration too...
Sounds cool little far for me ๐
Wait I don't see a similar alternative
The guide mostly consists of similar enough products, that are not "drop-in" replacements. It also links to https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-husb238-usb-type-c-power-delivery-breakout, which is the guide of a non-soldered variant of it.
Good morning Danh I got everything from the shopping list that you advised me to get. and best of all I still have some other things I bought from my previous rounds of shopping with Ada fruit so I have some excess.
Just got to play the waiting game with the delivery.
great, good luck with it all!
If I need to shop for anything else I'll ask.
I have some technical questions about clocks on an Adafruit Feather M4 board... which channel here would be best to bring that up?
the hardware clocks on the microcontroller? Or something else? What language / environment are you programming in?
Hardware clocks on the microcontroller (specifically the 48MHz DFLL) - coding in C++, using adafruit samd core, often coding down to the bare registers in the chip
yep
it doesn't matter too much. we have done some work on that in arduino and in circuitpython. could ask here or in #general-tech
or in #help-with-arduino
(going there now)
Speak of the devil everything arrived today
im new
Can't keep a stable job cause I always give off the impression of being weird, autistics,
it's more of a rant maybe, but it's really, really annoying
Always wanted to do "clean" things, but I can't go on otherwise
more of rant sorry
Hej โ๏ธ
Is there a way to get the C64 emulator for the Adafruit Fruit Jam (MCUME) to mount C64 disks (.d64)? Mine could not load them in the menu.
I appreciate USPS's optimism about delivering my stuff from Adafruit...
But delivering by 9pm today is going to be quite the challenge when it's already 6:50 pm, mail delivery has already happened today, and it's currently "in transit to next facility"
This server is pretty great I need to dig in more though
i agree
i do feel like im outclassed compared to the stuff that i see others do here
and most things sent here are questions or people requesting advice
that im not yet experienced enough in to reply
I think we should uses pins to stuff in channels imho
stuff is pinned in channels
just not all of them
in #help-with-circuitpython there are some usefull pins
Eh, don't worry about that. It's more important to learn and enjoy the hobby.
I recently just built a board using a lot of SMD stuff for the first time. It's not fancy, or technologically advanced, or anything like that.
But the important things are that I've learned stuff, and I made a thing that is mine. And that makes me happy.
I'm about to dive into animation. I've done it by tutorial in c# like 15 years ago, but that was with .png source files, now I'm using 16 bit xpm arrays I think
Just finishing up K8 PI 4 cluster
Friend 3D printed the tower getting shorter cables now.
I get the general idea here but the program I'm using also declares the size (ex. 0, 0). Is my thing using XPM or something else? I think it declares them as bytes
I think inside the bracket after the frame0
I need actual suggestions
how do I make friends at almost 26 year old?
I did made one untill not long ago, but I kind of ducked up, and now they won't talk to me back (he did also, but it doesn't look like we are going to have peace, just blocked for life), and now I am alone yet again
it really hurts me as I really haven't got any in all of my life, and he also had some similar issues of mines ..
I suggest you don't try to do this by yourself. Get some support from an appropriate organization, preferably locally. As an example, https://aane.org
idk if I am autistic or what tbh.
But I know that my isolation stemmed from heavy mobbing & dysfunctional family
thanks though
and he kinda experienced the same thing having wasted like 5 years in a drug recovery center. so we were like both without a social masks, and stuck at like 14
Regardless of whether you have an official diagnosis, getting some kind of professional advice and help would be worth it. You should not have to be working on this by yourself.
I don't know what you mean by "mobbing"
bullying
former friend, of 3 months ago
I mean I ducked up some days ago because I was heavily preoccupied, and won't talk me back
I'm not going to try to give detailed psychological advice in a text chat forum. But there are support structures for this, and it's worth seeking them out.
in Italy idk
there are some facilities that are like prison camps, for not auto sufficient adults
i am suggesting outpatient, community mental health, support group organizations, not hospitalization
I will be ya friend lets hang
I am 46 is this an issue ha
A Meanwell PSU i just installed in my synth
Replacing the 20 years old made in USA one
not an issue, but I wanted "real" life people
Assuming you mean in person interactions, do you have any hobby interests. Perhaps there is a club near you with others sharing that interest. For instance I like amateur (HAM) radio and have made some lifelong friends attending ham radio club meetings. Is there a maker space nearby where you could share building electronic projects? Model trains? Maybe take a class at the local University or tech school.
Small city, before the invasion, it was almost all old people.
Hobbies for me don't really cut it out, I feel out of space. I feelt more connected to people who have experienced long term isolation or have issues
I definitely shouldn't admit it, but when I see group of people smiling and having fun... I kind of perceive it as a threat, all I think about, is how easy would be to eliminate them... I'm some kind of a monster in reality, I never thought I would actually care about someone, and that it would cause me pain to lose the contact
so maybe I'm just looking for a mirror
I wish I could have been better help. Just wanted you to know you were heard and are not alone โ at least in the cyber sphere.
I am real I am not made up of 1s and 0s
One of these days I'm going to stop being surprised that super common functions in Arduino land are neatly packaged into a convenient function.
Like, getting internet time. I thought I was going to have to learn a whole ton of stuff.
Nope. It's a single command (assuming you've got your ESP32 board connected).
Ahh, who am I kidding? I'm never going to stop being surprised by the Arduino community.
Anyone working on open source medical hardware???
there has been work on insulin monitors and pumps
but I think that is mostly with existing hw. The sw is replacing the commercial sw.
I recently interviewed 2 master's students at Cornell Tech who developed an open pressure sensor device, which is open sourced. They talked a little bit about OSHWA getting behind medical hardware, too. https://www.circuitpythonshow.com/@circuitpythonshow/episodes/the-open-pressure-sensor-device
i have an idea
Does it include drinking a lot less coffee (or whatever other stimulant you are on)? ๐
Oh please. That keyboard looks positively normal compared to some I've seen.
How did you design that?
That might be too wide for ergonomic mouse usage
ps:
you can use unshielded inductors and a couple of magnets, to make a programmable pressure thingy
Hyper7 R4: https://mechboards.co.uk/products/hyper-7-v4
Wow, that looks perfect for emacs.
Is there any text editor that the Steam Controller (2026) looks "perfect" for?
Well, if you bind one button to :wq! you'll always be able to leave vi at least.
Well, unless vi is already in insert mode.
Gah, right. Sometimes there's just no escape.
Gotta figure out how to bind one of the buttons to "short power supply to ground"
A very not good way of shutting your computer down in a way that no software can block.
There's always a way to escape.
Just prefix the button mapping sequence with an Esc key press.
I did want to get a Steam Controller, but missed out. I'll just have to keep using this instead.
I had one of those.
I picked it up explicitly to convert it to USB...
And I've yet to actually play anything with it.
Works great though, and I even split the two orange buttons apart so it can be a 3 button controller now.
Or if you send a command over serial, you can convert it to a 1 or 2 button controller.
I also considered adding an additional command to make it left handed. Rotate the directions 90 degrees clockwise so you can hold it in your right hand, and press the buttons with your right thumb.
Just for giggles.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to use delay(100) for animation instead of using millis checks
I sped it up and lowered the movement rate to 1 pixel and it's smoother but seems like a weird way to animate, I don't quite get this code but I'll look it up
Specifically the part I don't get is how that colon is calling the max move height variable
Ok lol nvm is right there. I guess none of this is animated so it makes sense
Looks a little smoother but the camera captures a little distortion now. It was 60 milliseconds. I dropped it to 30
Looks good to me, whats the problem?
I was just thinking out loud I guess
Nothing is animated and I'm looking into how to do that with like the clouds and stuff
ohhh, cool
The milliseconds works when you're just moving stuff around, but for animation frames, that's the code that Google suggested on the top
Ah, well delay pauses the program at that point so iirc if you have other stuff to do it will also be delayed by the delay() which is not always optimal
i could be wrong though so dont take this as gospel
Ok but good to know
Ai doesn't always know exactly what it's talking about when you ask it code suggestions
I could probably just use a second set of block bits that are a lighter shade of yellow and then use a milliseconds call to swap back and forth
AI is ...variably useful i would say? if we ignore the various environmental/societal stuff and look at it from a purely useful/not useful aspect then AI can be great for programming questions but also sometimes can lead you on a wild goose chase by suggesting outdated or depreciated functions and whatnot
I actually think an LLM specifically trained on known good programming/code data sets would be a very useful tool but the general ones like chatgpt contain data that may be incorrect or outdated
Yay, I got enough into the mood for programming that I got the first step in my big clock project done.
Getting the time from the internet, and using that to update the RTC, so I'm not constantly pinging the server.
Important note (once you find the variables in the tm struct) is that the time gotten from the internet has January as 0, but the RTC function expects it as 1.
I do have to shamefully admit that I spent far too long trying to debug the whole thing crashing and restarting because I forgot rtc.begin()
Still, at least I knew enough to put it into the emergency bootloader mode, instead of panicking.
I looked into this and eztime library updates only twice an hour by default. I think it could be off by a few seconds for a whole day so You could just set it to update once per day and not really have much error
To Adafruit support - is there any way to get a 400ma very small lipo shipped USPS, I have an order pending with 2 feather LoRa's and would like one battery added to it, but it causes very large increase to ~+18.58$ in shipping by using UPS.
Not support but i believe USPS has restrictions on shipping lipo by air or internationally, so you might be running into that restriction
Without the lipo, I am able to select USPS - GROUND ADVANTAGE $6.51. With it, I am forced to UPS GROUND SAVER $17.51 (no battery on the order now)
Does Adafruit support watch this channel ?
I believe the only official support channel is the forum (https://forums.adafruit.com). I'd suggest asking there
Actually scratch that, the contact form might be better https://www.adafruit.com/contact_us
I like adafruit alot, but back and forth over support form has not resolved the issue
I just want to buy a lipo https://www.adafruit.com/product/3898 ๐
I did get a reply 'we arent able to ship batteries via USPS'. idn if thats adafruit company policy, but it is possible to ship batteries USPS and even support suggested adding a sticker to allow the battery to be shipped - but that might be over UPS
I suspect it's usps policy - https://www.usps.com/ship/shipping-restrictions.htm suggests that batteries probably need to be hard shelled (like a AA) not flexible like the one you linked
Order through Digikey (seearch by "Adafruit xxxx" where xxxx is the Adafruit number). That still supports Adafruit since Digikey is a sponsor and a distributor for Adafruit and the shipping I think it is a bit less in general, AND they don't charge the ridiculous shipping markup for a battery like Adafruit does. I have asked about this TWICE on the forums. First time my question was ignored. Second time someone said they would ask about it and that was the end of it. There is no reason for Adafruit to drop the USPS Ground service when you add a Lipo and jack up the shipping price.
Lithium-ion or Lithium Polymer Batteries5, 6
Packed with equipment, but not installed in the equipment Mailable
Mailable
8 cells or 2 batteries
@terse lava thanks, I am not imagining it then ๐
Yeah i looked through myself, im no expert on mailing regulations but it does seem like theres no specific USPS reason they cannot ship them via USPS, i would assume its simply an internal policy, in which case i imagine you are out of luck
could be related to all sorts of things, just because something isnt prohibited doesnt mean it wont cause issues, specialist markings or packaging needed, perhaps insurance or whatever
i imagine there is a reason
well I found some very old rat shack USB battery packs that have plenty of juice for the feathers... just wanted to try out a lipo
Nope, you are not imagining it. I wanted to support Adafruit where I can, but they are not a charity. So first time I asked and was ignored, so F' it, I just ordered my Lipos through Amazon instead, shipped free, and swapped the wires on the connector as needed.
separately, project is to get two feather RP2040's and hook up via LoRa, downstairs one as 'call button'. Upstairs one will flash the led. To learn LoRa. Then will package one up and see how far away from home I can get. Hoping for remote LoRa to send a byte and home LoRa sends it back, incremented. Then remote LoRa makes sure it got an incremented byte.
Sounds like a fun project
I was gonna do LoRa for my clock project to get an outside probe, but since moving to one of the LED matrixes, and picking up the Matrix Portal S3, I'll just use bluetooth as that's built into the ESP32 running the whole thing.
That does mean that I have a random Feather floating around somewhere that's not gonna get used for its original purpose, but that seems to happen with me. I also have a pair of SeeSaws that I was going to learn how to do one pin programming on, and that kinda got sidelined too.
Thought I'd share!
Cart Summary
Subtotal$79.70
Shipping* $6.99 Digikey
Mouser
Shipping:
1-5 Days
UPS Ground $8.49
Subtotal:$75.34 Didnt include the ufl to sma probably
That's... Kinda weird. I only just now discovered that the Adafruit graphics library does not include an RGB to RGB565 function. Seems like an odd omission. Not a show stopper, but unexpected just the same.
Iโฆ dont rlly drink coffee (or anything similar), only when im rlly tired :/
After watching some YouTube videos, I found one that recommended https://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/ so I gave it a go and designedโฆ that thing
True, Iโll make a similarly sized cardboard rectangle to test the size
:0
That looks so cool.. but also priceyโฆ and I want to try and make my own pcb, style etc
Btw.. does anyone have a suggestion for a good microcontroller for that keyboard Iโm making (I made a few minor adjustments but its mostly the same), as it needs a lot of rows/columns..
provided image shows rows/columns, is slightly outdated but basically the same as my latest revision.
Im scared to ask for an example
-# but im asking anyway
The Space Cadet keyboard was what I was thinking of.
you can probably use any of the common convenient microcontrollers and use either shift registers or IO expanders to give yourself more IO
theres probably restrictions that you might run into with concurrent keypresses though
or just do this i guess
You know, I really really really judge the world of keyboard obsessives and retrocomputing obsessives for not making a modern day Space Cadet.
"The Space Cadet keyboard influenced our modern key layout"
Sorry, not really seeing it.
The bulk of the modern layout comes from typewriters, and everything that isn't from there is just a matter of "where else are you going to put more keys?"
Still, there's apparently the Hyper7 R4, which is a "tribute" to it.
Yours for only... $490... If you get the barebones model that doesn't include switches or keycaps.
$721 for the kit
$836 for a fully assembled one.
Woah cool
Sounds interesting, Iโll have to check it out
ouch on price
I bought way too many panels and I was going to sell clocks but I ain't messing with the Mario clock or any of that IP LOL. Nintendo is the enforcer for that
Also the adafruit boards I have come with limitations, you can't address the device once it's connected because the refresh of the screen interferes with the esp32s Wi-Fi
They sell ones without the antenna and it's like a separate thing but I'm not trying to be the clock master LOL
Visibility means they would be good for stuff like road signs and I have seen that. Speed limit signs that are made from and LED array
Good luck landing a state contract though then you got it made
Assume not a huge profit margin if you're working for the state though
I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if the deficit from importing all that stuff is offset by the efficiency of the technology
I know the LED stop bulbs are like 70 to 90% more efficient than the old ones and most cities have switched over
Can't say I'm having any problems with the wifi myself, but I'm not running a ton of pixels on it yet, and the router is in my room.
I do know it's working though because the first time I tested my update function I actually watched the time jump backwards. I suppose that if it does prove to be a problem, I'll just use the included cable to move the matrix and controller apart.
While working on it at 2am last night, I was having problems getting it to actually queue up a time sync, only to realize that it doesn't help to only try setting a value to false, if it's already false.
I wonder if I can add in my resume not so ethical projects, as I kind of got fired from my previous job for concerning behavior/skillsets
it's not like that I like to do damage, I just like to show how it could be done, but they didn't take it too lightly
they got pretty mad after noticing some several security issues
Hi i just bought rp2040 feather. I am looking for the correct .uf2 file. I am also trying to use with for ps5 controller can ideas of where i can find some examples
https://circuitpython.org/board/adafruit_feather_rp2040/ if you want to run CircuitPython. Are you wanting to use it as a wired USB controller?
@fair summit yes sir i am trying to send the controller signals from pc so it use 2040 and sends it back to ps5 . trying to remove chaiki remote play. Currently i use chiaki remote play it has lot of latency
Which controller exactly are you trying to emulate? Sony DualSense or something else?
You can make the RP2040 emulate an HID controller, if you know the report descriptors for the controller you are trying to emulate.
@Alfie are you the same person as @Grayson?
@fair summit i use sony dual sense . i also have xbox controller. Since i am on chiakiremoteplay right now both works. yes is its wierd @Alfie is my active discord and this morning when i opened it on google. I said accept @Alfie and now it shows on both. I fixed it so this will be my active discord. Grayson
it is possible to emulate the dualsense, but it requires knowing the HID report descriptors (which are available). However, I haven't found any projects that do this. Most people are interested in using a real dualsense for other purpsoes.
@danh the purpose of what i trying to achieve is i current play on ps5 with chiaki remote play and i have xbox contoller plugged on pc and i use it . I heard using rp2040 i can play without chiaki remoteplay where i rp2020 can act as brigde between pc and ps5. I am trying to read ai script from pc and send signal back to ps5
do you have a reference for " I heard using rp2040"?
@fair summit Using an RP2040 to send signals directly to a PS5 without using Chiaki or any Remote Play software is possible by configuring the board to act as a USB controller emulator. This creates a physical hardware bridge where your inputs (from a PC or another controller) are converted into standard PS5 controller signals.1. Hardware Bridge via GP2040-CEThe most effective way to do this is by using the GP2040-CE firmware. This firmware allows the RP2040 to appear as a native controller to the console.Physical Setup: Connect your input source (like a PC or a custom button layout) to the RP2040, and then plug the RP2040 into the PS5's USB port.The "8-Minute" Problem: PS5 consoles periodically check for security handshakes. If the RP2040 is alone, the console will disconnect it after 8 minutes.The Bypass: You must use a USB passthrough setup. This requires an RP2040 board with an extra USB host port (or a breakout board). You plug an officially licensed "legacy" controller or a dongle like the Mayflash Magic Boots v1.1 into this host port. The RP2040 then passes the security handshake from that device to the PS5 while sending your custom button inputs.2. Emulating a Native DualSense (DIY Passthrough)If you are comfortable with coding, you can use libraries like TinyUSB or PICO-PIO-USB to create a custom bridge.Flow: Input Source โ RP2040 (Host Mode) โ Processing โ RP2040 (Device Mode) โ PS5.The RP2040 must be programmed to mimic the USB descriptor of an official controller so the console accepts it as a HID device
There is a discord for GP2040-CE. See link here: https://gp2040-ce.info/#support People there would have more expertise on what you are trying to do.
I finally ordered a 3d printer for these projects
I'm surprised they didn't get one 10 years ago, but the plus side is they've come a long way at this point
I saw an instructable write-up on how to make a small grid that goes over the LED's which helps to disperse some of the light within the acrylic panel in front. Now I have to wait for new nozzles because it's a really fine print
Top Images when he tried it with a point 4 mm stock nozzle
Non-Frosted acrylic but achieves the effect of filling out a full square for each pixel
Battery-powered Wireless Tetris Console Pair: I wanted to experiment with a 64x64 rgb led panel. So I decided to make a portable battery-powered console, with at least one game on it. Then I realized that game must be Tetris. Then I realized I could make a pair of consoles for multi-player gameโฆ
That's the write-up, he just used buttons but I'm pretty sure you could get it to work with a basic controller
mmmm its tough to get a sense of scale on that but it doesnt look like THAT detailed a print
but a finer nozzle is useful in a lot of things so its probably worth it
hello, im looking for help with some off-brand Pro Micro nRF25840 (with nice!nano), (What software I need to actually be able to program the thing, website to go to for learning more.) Im not sure if this is the right community for it, if not I would appreciate a point in the right direction.
There is a CircuitPython build for it: https://circuitpython.org/board/nice_nano/
you could follow guides for other nRF52840 boards in https://learn.adafruit.com and they'd be similar, like the Feather nRF52840.
ok cool. I have it "sort of" set up in vscode. I can upload to it and do the usual hello world serial prints. but I hadnt the first idea about using this things bluetooth and ArduinoBLE doesnt seem to build for it. Ill check those out
do you want to use it for a keyboard specifically, or just in general?
im targeting a keyboard project.
so you know about zmk already?
kmk is in CircuitPython, not sure if it has BLE support
i have heard about ZMK and QMK but dont knoow a lot about them. I wanted to try to learn to implement the basic BLE stuff
this is wha tgot me where i am https://github.com/ICantMakeThings/Nicenano-NRF52-Supermini-PlatformIO-Support
https://learn.adafruit.com/ble-hid-keyboard-buttons-with-circuitpython is one start, keyboard-related
either Arduino or CircuitPython or MicroPython are available.
ok ill check that out
we don't use PlatformIO much
im starting to not use it much either ๐
Oh this is working swell. Even got it working through VScode with CircuitPython V2 extension
I will have to make sure of /correct some pin mappings maybe. P0_15 is LED and board.LED points to some other pin
Thank you very much
Many examples here: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_CircuitPython_BLE/tree/main/examples
Some elementary examples here: https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-nrf52840
should I get a 3d printer? Might have the opportunity for a graduation gift, but I'm not sure if it's worth it since I don't have specifics on any projects I'm planning that'd need one, it'd mostly just be printing random bits and bobs with the occasionally useful thing
If you don't have an immediate need, I'd say wait until you do. They are only getting better. I bought one about 8 years ago: someone locally was getting Amazon returns of low-end printers and vetting them as working. It was cheap. I use mine every once in a while, but it can be months between uses. Uses have been a project box, some board stands, house numbers, AirTag holders (for keychains). I don't regret getting it, but I waited until I had something I actually wanted to print.
Hmm, alright
I don't know any 3d modeling unfortunately which is another thing that I'm a bit hesitant about
I can't think of any other things I could ask for, and a printer is something I've been interested in for a while but couldn't ever justify it so I'm super torn
If you're graduating from HS are you going off to college and won't bring it with you?
If you are going to college then there is likely to be a makerspace with printers you can use without having to buy one
and even if you stay there might be a makerspace nearby or at the library or similar
aha, well congrats, and if you want one, sounds like an idea ๐
Could ask in #help-with-3dprinting about what you might want to get
other gifts might be a nice set of tools and soldering setup if you don't already have something
Its hard to go wrong with tools
I actually got a nice soldering iron for christmas!
multimeter? probably have one already
Borrowed one from my dad yeah
I own an FDM printer and I have used it a BUNCH for all sorts of different things, I often play around with projects of different types and have created project enclosures, a case for a handheld computer, a couple of art projects and the occasional purely useful object (i designed and printed brackets for a rail for my shelves to prevent my cat pulling things off the shelf)
its a thing that could be used in a ton of ways

