help-with-3dprinting

[shy kelp]

I checked right now the output of d10 and d45
when trying to heat up, d45 seems to be unresponsive, while D10 does get up to 12v
I tried to switch the heating element cables to D10, but nothing it gets in error anyway

"heating failed e1
printer halted
please reset "

[tender sparrow]

Have you tried simply downloading and installing the latest non-bugfix marlin?

[shy kelp]

No, I didn't, I'll try then

[balmy pulsar]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5mJus0-5e0

well thats neat

haha

[shy kelp]

nothing same issue as before
though this time around you can see the temp going up down to 30 and 29, on d40
if I try to switch the heating element to d10, even though the output it's like 12.8V, there aren't changes to the temperature
and then it goes in protection

I used the 2.1

I also tried to change from the firmware to use d10 (before it was d45), but it still goes in protection

[empty sedge]

@shy kelp holding your hand on a cold nozzle for a minute should be enough to see a temperature rise a degree or two

I have no idea how you measured the sensor with a meter and got 83 ohms. Usually it’s a 100k NTC thermistor which should have about that resistance at room temperature. You should be measuring it when disconnected from the control board

The heater outputs are switched on the negative side, so if you check the voltage from the positive terminal to ground you will always see 12 or 24V depending on what power supply the printer runs

[shy kelp]

with a meter I got around 83 ohms
inside the house is like 28/29C
when connected to the board/printer it does report 29C
heating the heating block with an hot air gun, did decrease the ohms, and increase when I stopped heating up
also the printer did report the temperature increasing and decreasing when I did stop heating up

so I can assume that the thermistor is correctly working?

but then what's wrong with it? maybe the heating element then? I have no idea

[balmy pulsar]

loose wire, bad connection?

needs more pizza?

[empty sedge]

You can disconnect the heater and measure the resistance across it also. 40W at 12v would be 3.6ohm

[tender sparrow]

More specifically pepperoni pizza from little caesars

[balmy pulsar]

i was gonna go with this.. mostly cause the printer will at most eat 1 slice and then i can have the rest...

[tender sparrow]

That will work too

I just have more luck with the pepperoni pizza

[low oxide]

Anyone have any tricks when printing with matte PLA? I'm liking how the sides of my model are turning out, but the bottom layer is coming out pretty shiny... I was hoping I could get that layer to be matte as well. I'm using an Ender 3 with the original plastic printing bed.

[balmy pulsar]

the bottom will always take the texture of the bed

[arctic dragon]

Textured PEI sheet?

[empty sedge]

Or blue tape

[low oxide]

ok thanks for the suggestions!

[gloomy anchor]

anyone have a neptune 2s?

mine is stuck on the y axis

[stoic echo]

I have a question about print-in-place spring buttons and similar. I found an article on Hack-A-Day about these neat print-in-place buttons that Marc Schömann designed. I am working on an enclosure for one of the Adafruit displays (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1933) and I am trying to find some good keycaps I can use to actuate the little buttons on the breakout PCB that comes with that display. Any tips on buttons you like?

[blissful marlin]

Any ideas how I could automate a spring loaded mechanism?

similar to what would be in a nerf gun

Instead of pulling the spring up by hand I want it to be automated with a motor - just not sure how the mechanism would look like

[arctic dragon]

I'm imagining something with ridges like https://www.instructables.com/Semi-Automatic-Rubber-Band-Gun/ but on a moving chain of some sort...

If the chain itself is pulled with some mechanical wizardry with every trigger pull, you might not even need a motor...

Problem is, how would the front rubber bands affect the one that's ready to fire...

[outer narwhal]

i've actually seen variations that use a rotating wheel with angled external spokes

[blissful marlin]

basically I need this spring to automatically go back to the compressed state

I am guessing this is my best option:

[tall osprey]

@blissful marlin a common method for nerf gun sorts of affairs is the rack+pinion as you showed, but you drop a couple teeth off the pinion so it can slip forward- but this is usually part of the pusher mechanism which pushes into a set a flywheels. I believe this is how the nerf stampede works for example

and in fact here is a 3d model of the gear

though this one is modified for use in a flywheel conversion modification to use the plunger as a pusher

[shy kelp]

I get nothing
so can I guess that's gone?

[empty sedge]

Yeah, or your wire is broken somewhere

[balmy pulsar]

i thought you said it was a new hot end? (new heater new temp sensor)

[molten arch]

If my printer's hot end is rubbing on the print sometimes making a scrapping noise, could I be over-extruding a bit? Or maybe my Z axis slipped a little? I'm pretty sure its overextrusion since I did round up a few decimals when calibrating it

currently, the print sounds fine, but on flat parts it scraps

heres a picture

[tall osprey]

those layers look pretty nasty, does look like overextrusion. Noise however is probably a leveling problem if I had to guess

[balmy pulsar]

mine has done that. it is not necessarily nozzle over extrusion. in one instance my hot end was angled (got bumped somehow) and that was pushing up material on one side

if there is noise in traverse moves, you can raise the height it moves up in those moves.

but you still have the underlying issue

[molten arch]

oh yeah that makes sense
i printed a new fan mount and the nozzle isn't the most secured lol, that could be it

[tall osprey]

if your nozzle is loose that will lend itself to all sorts of problems yes

printers need to be relatively rigid in construction

[uneven pilot]

I think this is the correct place for this. I am printing a 3D lighthouse and I am trying to find a single white LED light with an on/off switch and a battery holder for this project to light the beacon. I am not sure where to even start since I know very little about electronics. Any help is much appreciated.

[balmy pulsar]

probably better for general topic, but are you more or less talking a dumb device (light, switch battery, no electronic computery stuff?

[arctic dragon]

How bright of a light are we thinking here? https://www.adafruit.com/product/754 perhaps? It's a pack of 25, so if one isn't bright enough maybe use a bunch?
It'll draw max 20mA continuous with a forward voltage of 3.0V.

https://learn.adafruit.com/lets-put-leds-in-things/basic-recipe might be a good place to start, if you're new to LEDs and electronics in general.

[balmy pulsar]

or do you want a cree, so it can be a REAL lighthouse?

[marsh wing]

Hey, I'm working on a CO2 sensor project and need to work out an enclosure for it, but have zero experience with 3D printing and would be using services that print+ship to you. Does it seem feasible to take existing an existing case design and modify it this way?

[uneven pilot]

Yes, simple is great. I don't even know the terms to use for what I what.

That is bright enough. I'll read the info a LED. Maybe where I should start, Thanks.

[uneven pilot]

Don't know what cree is but this is a model lighthouse so I need small.

[winged helm]

Cree is a type of LED, very bright

[uneven pilot]

Depends on how complicated. There a enclosures out there that can be adapted. You also need to consider the filament type.

[winged helm]

For switches you can use just a simple SPST switch

[balmy pulsar]

cree is what you might find in those mini fhashlights

[uneven pilot]

That may be too bright for a model. But it does sound interesting.

[balmy pulsar]

regular leds are too be seen, cree's are to see with

thats the dif, haha

[uneven pilot]

Regular will fit the bill.

[balmy pulsar]

yeah

regular is more idiot proof too

[uneven pilot]

Is there such a thing as a unit, with LED, switch and battery together?

[balmy pulsar]

in terms bot both circuit and mechanically attching

a flashlight

[uneven pilot]

That's me for sure.

[balmy pulsar]

actually

that might be your best bet get a $5 cheapo pen light

dismantle it

use the led and reflector battery and switch

(some are glued together so gotta watch for that)

[uneven pilot]

Great idea. I might be able to handle that.

[balmy pulsar]

a mini mag would be overkill (thats a cree). but one of the little keychain pocket ones are kinda just right

some might even have usb charging these days

[marsh wing]

I both know what filament is and also don't get what "consider[ing]" it would mean in this context heh

[strange ledge]

One would assume they mean the filament material.

[marsh wing]

yes

but what do I need to "consider" here?

[balmy pulsar]

i suspect you need more learning before starting. have you modelled anything before in cad?

[arctic dragon]

Different materials have different mechanical and thermal properties. Usually, the consideration is what types of stresses this enclosure would undergo, whether that's physical or environmental. For the enclosure of a simple sensor system, typically PLA or ABS (two of the most common 3D-printed plastics) would be more than sufficient, but extra "considerations" should be made if this is going to sit outdoors or in an area with higher temperature or moisture levels.

[uneven pilot]

It will depend on what you are going to do with it. As @arctic dragon stated, different filaments have different properties.

[marsh wing]

Ah no, it's going to be used inside

[balmy pulsar]

PLA will be fine, at the very least for testing and fitting. if you find it is too weak, soft, whatever, then you can leanr to use some of the other materials which can be more fussy

[arctic dragon]

In case you missed the context, he's ordering from a print service, so there's not really any learning involved in terms of printing intricacies.

[balmy pulsar]

doh

forgot that

yeah, SLS nylon, done haha

😛

[marsh wing]

What app(s) would people recommend for taking an existing design and modifying it?

[balmy pulsar]

what cad software have you used before?

[willow sedge]

What file type is the existing design?

Also, how complex of a modification?

[marsh wing]

STLs, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5369146 / https://learn.adafruit.com/wordle-personal-esp32-s2-web-server/build-the-server-case
Not sure how to answer that. I basically want to make space for the CO2 sensor and a battery.

[marsh wing]

I haven't

[balmy pulsar]

ok, thats where i thought this was going

STLs are a bit hard to edit cleanly. usually youll want to model solid. theres a number of free/cheap apps for this. but youll have a little bit of a learning curve

[marsh wing]

Ugh, learning. Can't we just do this Matrix-style and the info just gets downloaded into my head?

[balmy pulsar]

nope

sorry

best i can offer is youtube tutorials

haha

[tall osprey]

For simple models like that it's often best to just restart from scratch it a step isn't available

You can of course modify the stl but doing anything but binary add-remove operations is kind of tricky particularly if you're not familiar with it like meeee (in that I am unfamiliar with it)

[balmy pulsar]

as for software, fusion is what i used. other people have different preferences. most of them will get something simple like this done easily enough

[marsh wing]

Have been low-key wondering if this is a project anyone else might be interested in helping me with, as it seems like it'd be a useful thing for a bunch of folks and would possibly help sell a few boards + sensors.

[tall osprey]

Cad modeling is likely a lot easier than you think it is

Particularly for a box like this

[marsh wing]

I just realised, would some experience with SketchUp count for this?

(I was using it for interior design stuff)

[balmy pulsar]

anything helps, but sketchup is kinda nothing like cad

[shy kelp]

just try a bunch, and then pick the one that you do like the most

it's mostly a matter of preference

[uneven pilot]

You may want to look at https://www.tinkercad.com/ It is simple and free. You can start from scratch or upload the .stl

[amber hearth]

Hello, I have a question about gcode, when executing lines of gcode how do I know the code line is done? the 3d printer sends a message? I am trying to make a pendant to control my printer

[uneven pilot]

No sure if this answers the question but gcode is read line-by-line. If you have a way to read the code (octoprint for instance) you should be able to see where it stops. Also I believe the G04 command pauses the print.

[amber hearth]

I understand that gcode is sent line by line but what indicates that the line is done? The pendant is sending gcode to a marlin board but if I send a line that moves the machine really slow, how the marlin board tells me that the movement was executed?

I found gcode instructions that sends me the position but these instructions only tell me the position of the last read gcode and the machine is still moving, so I can't get the real actual position

[balmy pulsar]

short answer is it doesnt

there is no confirmation i dont think

(and no mechanical confirmation either unless you have encoders)

[empty sedge]

marlin buffers 16 gcode lines or more. It tells octoprint that it received each line correctly (the checksum matched) but octoprint doesn't know when the line gets executed

you can turn off the buffering in marlin, but you don't want that for printing because it means stopping after each move

people already have figured out what gcode to use to synchronize stopping with a camera. Look for a timelapse plugin that does a retract and moves the axes to a fixed position on each layer

[cunning hound]

There are some gcode commands that send something back when they get executed. You can tell when they execute. Most don't for performance reasons. If you must know, it can be as simple as inserting a command with a visible side effect periodically.

M118 is one example. If I were wanting to use this myself, I'd check if another is better suited for my purpose, but 118 is sorta the generic one

[balmy pulsar]

if the control supports some IO you could trigger something, but i dont know what printers support, not much i assume.

[cunning hound]

118 is the generic io command. Works by default in klipper. Has to be enabled in klipper

Erm. By default in marlin

[balmy pulsar]

yeah just looked it up. "serial print"

[marsh wing]

Any recommendations for 3D printing companies in the US and UK?

[balmy pulsar]

ive only used shapeways

[marsh wing]

Oh great, I can get it made in platinum

[balmy pulsar]

ha

[marsh wing]

Does the STP on here include all the separate pieces, or would getting it printed via a service result in a solid block? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5369146/files

[balmy pulsar]

depeneds on the service, usually 1 file = 1 object

[half dew]

25mm nozzle, .04 layer height. fdm - standard keycap feels injection molded after 30 seconds of sanding. didn't think that was doable with fdm... i might need to get some transparent filament and print a full set

[balmy pulsar]

25mm nozzle?

are you printing life sized planets?

😛

[half dew]

.25 😉

[balmy pulsar]

0.04 layer height is pretty fine. ive done 0.3mm nozzle with "adaptive" layers (i think 0.08mm min height) and you get some realykl nice surfaces, but the nozzle clogged on me

a lot

[half dew]

i've been printing all weekend with mine and its been good. the mosquito hotend helps i'm sure

I mainly put it on to show my brother the best he could probably expect out of fdm for minis.... which ended up being way better than i though at the cost of time

[half dew]

I should try adaptive layers - the only surface i care about is the top so it would probably speed things up a lot

[balmy pulsar]

yeah, adaptive i found pretty useful

[gloomy anchor]

upgrades:

• better hotend
• bltouch sensors
• z axis vibration holder
• webcam

[half dew]

ender 5? (that matches my list of upgrades pretty closely)

[gloomy anchor]

neptune 2s

[gloomy anchor]

what kind of 3d printers do they use in aerospace and other industries? for the real tough stuff

laser fused and better version of FDM?

[gloomy anchor]

yea looks like mostly SLS. I dont see much resin

[tall osprey]

resin is common in dental industry

there's a couple other applications of it but SLS nylon is the big one

[balmy pulsar]

SLS usually makes the most functional parts.

SLA is common for casting patterns right now

cause they can print it with a weird hollow structure than melts inward and doesnt ham the mould

[cunning hound]

I wouldn't be surprised if cheap FDM printers were used some in aerospace for like super early proof of concept work.

just because it's faster and cheaper than the big boy technologies

[balmy pulsar]

not faster by any stretch, and not cheaper at that scale. Airbus help develop SLS

FDM does get used for PEEK and ULTEM plastics though for tooling

FDM can make much bigger rough parts too

[cunning hound]

faster maybe true, but isn't sls powder mega expensive? and you can't endlessly reuse the unsintered bits because they have a limited number of times they can be raised to the chamber temp. what am I missing that doesn't make sls inherently way more expensive?

[marsh wing]

Just getting started with Tinkercad and am trying to edit an existing case design from Adafruit. Am I right to assume that STL files (what I imported it from) don't break out the different elements of one physical components, and it's all just one big shape? As in, if I want to fill in a hole, I can't just remove the hole, I need to make a thing to fill it in?

[arctic dragon]

SLS is generally more commonly used for parts with special material requirements that make it extremely difficult for an FDM printer. One of the most common applications I've seen is printing molding tools with an SLS machine, as FDM printers aren't capable of printing parts in that temperature range.

[cunning hound]

Yeah, I'm saying I wouldn't be surprised if FDM is used in some cases, obviously the ones where it can be. For the cases where FDM can be used, I would imagine it would be much cheaper than SLS.

[arctic dragon]

As an engineer at a 3D printer manufacturer, we actually do print parts in an FDM printer, but we use a Fortus from Stratasys to be able to print consistently in decent volumes.

[cunning hound]

The case where FDM cannot be used isn't really relevant here.

[marsh wing]

As in, if I want to fill in the holes in the back, I need to make new little components to fit into them, rather than being able to 'delete' them? Wondering what the best way to use existing designs is.

[arctic dragon]

The problem with hobbyist machines, up until VERY recently, is the amount of tuning needed to get high-quality parts. When you're on salary and expected to deliver a product, the industrial printers offer a much more consistent experience, and comes with a service agreement to boot.

[cunning hound]

STL files are only a single shape by definition. If Adafruit provides other formats (I'm not sure if they do) it might have parametric info.

[arctic dragon]

My guess would be to just overlap it with another solid body, then group them together. They should export as one body when you save as an STL afterwards?

[marsh wing]

Hmm, looks like I can get the original one as a Fusion360 file, is F360 likely to be a lot more complex than Tinkercad for me?

[cunning hound]

I wouldn't switch programs just for this (though fusion 360 is nice).

I thought step would save enough info for what you want, but after reading I'm not sure it would. The idea you originally had to just shove anotehr body in there might be the easiest way

[arctic dragon]

If you're not terribly invested in tinkercad and want to switch, F360 is a pretty solid piece of software. It has its downsides, but it's far more capable than Tinkercad, and admittedly a significant amount more complex.

[marsh wing]

I mean TC does seem 100x friendlier for a total n00b, and F360 is such a weird supposedly desktop app on a Mac

[arctic dragon]

Certainly not ideal for Mac, IIRC.

[marsh wing]

I'm so confused as to how it's even running, the actual app bundle launches something else which seems to be a strange mashup of things

[cunning hound]

it does that on windows, too. I have the logical app on my start bar, but it creatse a new icon when I launch it

[shy kelp]

I don't know for some reason the bltouch probe stays out, and when I do try homing, the z motors move

but if I try to move them manually on move axis they work fine

[empty sedge]

Sounds like you haven’t successfully homed

[shy kelp]

I fixed the problem with the probe, it was about cables being switched, now the problem is that it fails homing, the probe does move like this (video), but z's steppers won't go down

[marsh wing]

Anyone got much experience with Fusion 360? I'm trying to modify an existing enclosure design from Adafruit to make it bigger and it's not exactly clear how to do that

[cunning hound]

press pull can work wonders

scale or offset face may also work

[balmy pulsar]

press pull is a start, and then you start cutting it up and filling in

press pull is the hotkey Q btw

cause P would have made sense, and this is adesk...

[marsh wing]

Yeah, that works for making it taller, but can't work out how to use it to expand the x/y dimensions while keeping the walls of it intact.

[balmy pulsar]

screenshot?

press pull can fail if the geo is wonky and sometimes you cant "see" the issue

[balmy pulsar]

ah

make a plane to split it in half

them move to the length you want

pull the cut surface back to the other one and compbine

[marsh wing]

can you see my messages? they keep disappearing on my side

[balmy pulsar]

censorbot will delete things sometimes that dont make sense

[marsh wing]

Trying to work out what I was saying that it didn't like

ah, I said a super mild swear beginning with "d"

[balmy pulsar]

it does substrings, so could literally be anything

[marsh wing]

Darn*, just realised that the supports are too narrow to fit the battery in between

[balmy pulsar]

same thing, split it, widen it, then pull back together

[marsh wing]

I meant in terms of how it can't physically fit as a real world item this way

If I widen the supports then they won't match up to the holes on the Feather

[balmy pulsar]

ooooh

[marsh wing]

Hmm, I guess in theory maybe it can be supported via supports that stick out from the sides, though that's about 100x more complex than anything I can do in terms of 3D modelling

[balmy pulsar]

practice the modelling, cause when you print you can make some way more efficient shapes and just a hollow box

[marsh wing]

I also don't have a 3D printer of my own, gotta use a print service

[balmy pulsar]

same thing, printing is basically freeform, so if you want a round pocket for the battery then the feather mounted above it with screws, you can do it

[marsh wing]

Yeah I mean it's possible to do it, I'm just saying this is way over my skill level

[balmy pulsar]

up you skill level is what im saying

🙂

lots of good tutorials

[marsh wing]

Ugh, learning 😉

[oak heart]

am I missing something, or has my slicer generated a floating support interface?

The little L shape there doesn't look like it's touching anything that's touching the build plate.

[balmy pulsar]

new feature called air supports

ive had cura do that to me a few times.

[empty sedge]

It looks like it thinks it's part of that lower support bit that it didn't continue

[oak heart]

Well, I just ✨ Learned Something ✨. I added an internal sphere negative volume to make the model hollow, figuring it'd save time and filament over gyroid infill. It did neither.

Yes void: 48.14g over 7h26m
No void: 47.01g over 7h5m

[marsh wing]

See, this is what I was saying, earlier, ugh, learning 😉

[toxic kite]

the void likely had at least 3 layers of walls to it

how dense was the infill?

[shy kelp]

fixed it was again the cables
I'm so dumb 🤦‍♂️

[oak heart]

It does have walls, yes, and infill is 10%

[balmy pulsar]

the inside void walls are more filament than the full infill was. nice. the same goes for time, some things you think will reduce time just make it go up.

[shy kelp]

I thought that I finally fixed all the problems, but now other problems did start
it fails homing, or more specifically it fails homing the y axis(bed), it moves it, then it stops before touching the endstop and says printer halted.kill() called!
the endstop works fine...

now it works, idk I have done nothing

[sharp rapids]

how easy is it to build a 3d print for a school project

[neon aspen]

It can range from Ezpz to extremely difficult. A box for a pcb, Ezpz. A 6 dof robotic arm, much harder.

[oak heart]

Do you figure the belt could be skipping?

[shy kelp]

the belt seems fine... but now it works...

also idk there is a bug (I think?) with tmc drivers and the extruder, which make the extruder stop working
from the GitHub pages seems to be related to linear advance option, disabling it won't solve
but if I do switch the driver from a tmc to any allegro or drv, the extruder works fine...

[shy kelp]

I think that I might found a clue of the failed homing
basically it doesn't recognize the whole travelling space, if I do move the bed or extruder or the thing in the z, all the way out and then press home it won't recognize the extra space and stops failing
if it starts from the endstop, then it won't fail homing, but it won't also go all the way out, so it stops before recognizing the extra space

[outer narwhal]

did it ever work? if so, what has changed since then? it kind of sounds like the software is expecting an incorrect number of steps per rotation

[shy kelp]

it did, but to time to time, the motor polarity was reversing, so I tried newer version, in new version it doesn't look like happening anymore

but now the home offset seems to be off, I guess trying to reset it by doing, g28, m211 s0, then placing x and y to their endstop, m428, then m500, won't fix it

[shy kelp]

anyway probably you're right
I managed to save the new offset,
and at 210 x travel it stops somewhat in the half and not in the final end

[outer narwhal]

you haven't physically changed the stepper motor?

[shy kelp]

no I didn't

I might accidentally have with the y, z and e motors, but with the X axis yes, I did not

but the other motors are the same I think? gonna post some photos

[outer narwhal]

oh, if they're supposedly identical motors, maybe try exchanging some of them to see if the problem follows the motor?

[shy kelp]

I just checked up, and no, I didn't switch the motors

I'm sorry for the confusion

[outer narwhal]

no, i mean maybe try physically swapping motors from one axis to another to see if that changes the behavior?

[shy kelp]

they stay active for more or less the same time

[outer narwhal]

as in you swapped motors between two axes and the problem stayed with the axis and not the motor?

[shy kelp]

yeah the problem stayed, so I can assume that's something wrong with the software?

[outer narwhal]

could be the software, could be wiring or driver circuit. if the problem only appeared after a software update, that kind of suggests that it's software-related

[outer narwhal]

did you also mention that the motor was unexpectedly spontaneously reversing direction sometimes, before the software update?

[shy kelp]

yes
I'm sorry I meant, that part of the motor polarity was reversing to time to time
so the motors for some time did work fine, for some other time it was jagging

[shy kelp]

if it helps here's the zip...

I've tried older version, and the issue is still present...idk

[outer narwhal]

yeah, maybe it's the hardware, then. can you swap the motor wiring harnesses at all?

[shy kelp]

I don't get what do you mean

[shy kelp]

ok so if I call m92 on pronterface and edit the values from them by doubling them so 160, 160, 800, 200, it looks like it is fixing it, but I can't keep my pc plugged in while printing, unless I can call them at the start gcode? idk

anyway if I try to put those values in the firmware, it won't save them!
so if I call m92 without values, it will printout the old values which are 80, 80, 400, 96.2, even if in the firmware they are doubled!

[shy kelp]

m92, doubling the values and then m500
fixed it, more or less

[broken orbit]

I have an Ender 3 printer, and I'm trying to change the tubing. I tried to get it out, and it snapped off right by the feeder. Can I unscrew the fitting to get it out? I'm replacing the whole mechanism with this upgrade kit on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Capricorn-Upgraded-Pneumatic-Bed-level/dp/B081DN6RM2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2KIT3FMMR4JJX&keywords=ender+3+upgrade+kit&qid=1658178812&sprefix=ender+3+upgr%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-6

I don't see why not, but I don't know

[arctic dragon]

Yeah, the tube only goes as far as the fitting, so replacing the fitting makes the most sense.

[broken orbit]

OK, makes sense. Thanks!

[tall osprey]

As a small warning Capricorn's advertised heat rating for the tube is false
It degrades at regular ptfe temperatures

[broken orbit]

I only use PLA tho

so far

I don't print much

I mostly use my printer as an engraver for acrylic

[tall osprey]

Just a header upper

The way they advertise them is as drop in "now you can print abs" which is pretty uncool

[broken orbit]

Yes, thanks a lot

True. I don't print ABS, because I've found it's so brittle

[tall osprey]

🤔

But pla is like, several times more brittle

[broken orbit]

Hm. Maybe I printed it too hot

I don't know. Also it costs more

[tall osprey]

And abs is well regarded for it's impact strength etc

[broken orbit]

I'd have to try it again

when I tried it, it was a long time ago

[tall osprey]

Well, not without an all-metal hotend ideally

[broken orbit]

Yeah. I did upgrade to one

[tall osprey]

Ah good

[broken orbit]

Yeah

Thanks!

[tall osprey]

Iirc cnckitchen has a good video on the common filament types

[balmy pulsar]

more like 40 videos 😛

he has a really good standardised test

[shy kelp]

too close or too distant?
I can't tell, because this should be after bed leveling so points should be the same
but it looks like they aren't

yay I'm sorry for being annoying

[cunning hound]

The corner with the brand name looks too close to me. You can tell because the filament is either thin or non-existant (it can't fit out of the nozzle). The circle next to that corner looks decent. The other three corners look too far away. You can tell because they have filament (unlike the first corner), but the filament isn't squashed onto the bed at all, it looks like it was dropped from a height.

You either didn't level it properly, or it's not keeping level at all if it's that far off immediately.

[vestal thicket]

The very bottom picture on the right is my favorite way to double check how close the filament is with examples: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer

[cunning hound]

I've never liked that one. I can see the bed through the filament in their "just right" (or I THINK I can, might be a trick of the filament)

[empty sedge]

When you're pretty close to level, you shouldn't see gaps from the top. Peel up the print and look at the bottom. You should be able to see the edges of the lines on the bottom, but they should all touch, and also shouldn't buckle underneath each other. Usually the buckling shows as the lines alternating between thick and thin as the infill alternates direction. the infill lines should all be the same width.

On a printer like that I'd first home Z, and do an eyeball leveling by looking at how close the nozzle is from the glass and adjusting until barely touching (or you barely press down on bed to get it to stop touching the nozzle). Then do a calibration print like that and try again.

You might get more consistent results if you heat the bed up first and let it sit for 10 minutes before leveling and starting your print

Also, a thicker first layer (say 0.3mm) cares a lot less about your bed leveling so make it easy on yourself and keep the first layer at 0.3mm (or 75% of your nozzle diameter)

If you have a z offset adjustment then using paper as a shim can also be a reliable way to get the bed level. Clean off the nozzle tip, home the printer, move to Z=0.1mm or so, and move the nozzle over a leveling screw. Adjust the screw until there is only a little drag between the nozzle and the bed. I like to get it to the point where you can push the paper through and feel resistance, but it doesn't get caught and buckle. Repeat for the other screws and test the first one again. Then do your test print and only adjust the z-offset for the entire bed.

If your bed isn't "flat" you have work to do to figure out why. It could be the bed, but it could also be the rails or your rollers.

[pastel vector]

Hello boys

have any1 though of this thing?

can someone cad this? I surely cant, BUT I can print it

or is there something on the web?

I dont know what to search xD

[raven coral]

Could it be that after installing a silicone sock there was too much heat creep and it clogged the heatbreak?

Because for some reason my filament wont extrude

[empty sedge]

It’s possible but unlikely the sock is the cause. That would be one way to clog though that would be hard to fix with a cold pull

[broken orbit]

Anyone have experience engraving clear acrylic with a diode laser? Sounds like I need a backing plate

[balmy pulsar]

if im not mistaken the wavelength wont cut it / cut it well

same with fibre

[broken orbit]

That's what I'm figuring out. Well anyway BACK TO ABS..

[balmy pulsar]

yeah its annoying. a lot of new "higher end" uh, office? type lasers now come with both fibre and co2 to make them more versatile. but thats $$$$$

i want to engrave on anodised aluminium, so a fibre marking laser it best, but thats about ALL it will do. so id still need to buy a co2 if i want to cut plastics and wood

why isnt there one magic tool that makes everything?

[stuck trail]

I am learning the prusa software atm, watching a video and reading around but it there a preferred way to re map items? like in this case it makes no sense to have this model standing up as it can be printed flat, should I be manually rotating this or is there a "lay flat" utility I can't find somewhere?

it isn't a big deal, I am just looking to learn all the utilities and that seems like one that might be there

[spark junco]

there should be a button that let you select which face is on the bed

i don't use prussa, but the 4th button (from the top) on the left toolbar should do it

[stuck trail]

ohhhhh thank you, I thought it would by the name but couldn't get it to do that, turns out I had to click on the face and it would then do that

I just know me and manually doing that sounds wrong and I would give a model a bad offset by mistake

[spark junco]

yes, don't do it manually. printing orientation is a big deal in 3D printing. a good orientation can save a lot of headache and time

[stuck trail]

yeah, I had a lot of failures with my ender 3 pro, swapped off to prusa and it has been so much better tbh.... one day I might go back and try and fix up my ender but honestly this software and how easy calibration etc has been I think if I need bigger prints ill just save up and get a bigger prussa printer. currently debating on if I should go for a multi object print and checking out slicer tweaks that could improve things and shorten time

[spark junco]

Ender isn't what it used to be. lot of quality issues.
i'm happy with my small kingroon kp3s. it just worked "as is"

[stuck trail]

yeah, the problems I had with my ender made me need to mod it, it was a unit with a bad heatbed so I had to swap out that, the original board was crappy and would glitch out randomly so I installed a new board but the new board had a lot of issues compiling with marlin for it with the bl touch and I gave up on it after a few hundred dollars

it would be nice to be able to print larger prints but it just isn't worth the time, I sunk months into it and enough money to have bought a proper prusa original and I now only have the mini

any thoughts on enclosures?

I have one that I used with my ender 3 pro, but I never really addressed the exhaust part of that, like I have a exhaust fan I could use and I could scrub a filter on that but I don't know if a filter would even catch any of the things you would be concerned about

[spark junco]

it's probably fun for some people. but i just wanted to print some parts for my microscopes 😄

it paid itself on 1st print 🥰

i have other stuff to print but i'll wait after the heatwave

[stuck trail]

yeah I am sure if it was for microscopes X/ honestly insane how much money you can save printing certain equipment

[spark junco]

i needed a trinocular adapter

it was 900 euro or something 😄

[stuck trail]

is the one you printed any worse?

honestly you could by a pretty amazing printer with that much money

[spark junco]

well it's not metal but i don't care 🤷

"it works"

also printed some dust shell while i was at it

it wasn't easy, had to learn fusion 360

and you can see the adapter tube in black

[stuck trail]

I bet, I am looking at printing a 3d scan rotating platform that way I can scan in objects to help with model creation

I bet you had to work manually measuring everything out on your physical unit, probably can't be avoided no matter how you do it though

[spark junco]

i tried with an ipad pro lidar

well... it suck

this thing is useless

[balmy pulsar]

i could have told you that haha

[stuck trail]

Should I setup octopi on the prusa? I like how reliable it has been out of the box but I wish it has network printing

the mini only has network monitoring, not printing in the original setup

[half dew]

Maintaining my octopi setup was too much effort for the value to me... but if I was printing all the time I would have kept it going

[shy kelp]

at the center looks decent, on the outside huh...
super annoying

[balmy pulsar]

O_o

[shy kelp]

then I should Also understand why the print is offsetted, but at least it's printing

I guess that just doubling up e steps isn't a great fix

[cunning hound]

doubling e steps???

[tall osprey]

your bed is relatively clearly not leveled

slash and or warped

[cunning hound]

my guess is warped, but I'm concerned about the debugging process if we've made drastic changes to esteps to address leveling issues

[balmy pulsar]

cupped. its glass bonded to aluminium heated plate, so it can warp.

thats why the chiron has multi point levelling

(400mm glass bed)

[noble charm]

What is the printer? You can probably put a version of Marlin on it that has mesh bed leveling to fix that

[balmy pulsar]

anycubic mega

does marlin have multi point levelling?

[noble charm]

It does on my enders

you just have to enable it in firmware

[balmy pulsar]

the chiron has it. with a sensor for auto levveling

[noble charm]

at least when you compile it

[balmy pulsar]

the mega never came with it

[noble charm]

let me see what I can find for you real quick

[balmy pulsar]

not me

ha

this aint my mess

😛

[noble charm]

ah yeah, I literally just joined the server haha

[balmy pulsar]

i do have a mega though, but it is fine for level

SD reader is acting up though

always something

[noble charm]

yeah... 3D printing is fun haha

[balmy pulsar]

well, low quality printers, cause we want them all for $199. ha

gotta cut corners somewhere

better than the reverse, $3000 for a 64gb CF card for a cnc machine.

[tall osprey]

pretty much every hobby printer on the market is marlin based fwiw

[shy kelp]

basically at 210 it stopped more or less at the center of the axis, and refused the go more even tho it had space

so I doubled esteps on x,y,z and it did solve it more or less I think?

because now prints do that thing
but before it couldn't even home so idk

[tall osprey]

what

esteps is the step count to extrude fillament

it has nothing to do with your leveling problem

[cunning hound]

yeah I thought you meant extrusion at first, too. you mean rotation distance or whatever marlin calls the equivalent (I forget).

[shy kelp]

I'm sorry
I was referring to this section
https://pastebin.com/PJbmT9C2
doubling this except for the e stepper, did fix the previous issue (more or less)
which was this
https://youtu.be/tFkZM5FUOZI

[tall osprey]

ok so that should be calculated with math

look at the size of your belt, gears, etc

and then do the math to figure out what 1 step means in terms of movement

[shy kelp]

do you have like a formula or something?
because googling I did found only stuff like this
which doesn't help because the objects do look fine?

[tall osprey]

well you need to know how many degrees your step is

which means you need to know what your motor is (probably 1.8 degree/step) and your microstepping configuration (probably 1/16th)

which means for every step you rotate the axle 1.8/16 degrees

then you look at the physical characterisitics of the parts you're using

for example on a t8 leadscrew 1 revolution = 8mm

[cunning hound]

because of how the math works in general (the two stepper configurations that exist are 1.8 and 0.9, microstepping goes in powers of two), if you were visually off by about half, doubling is probably the right answer. But as Vex said, doing the math is always going to be better than just sorta winging it. I'm more concerned with the thought process than the eventual answer (which is probably correct)

[shy kelp]

idk unless I don't find an exact formula I guess I can try by playing with values untill it works
or then if the fromula in the previous
screenshot works, I can always use it if it distorts the objects

[cunning hound]

That screenshot looks like how you'd tune the extruder motor, which is ifferent. There are a lot of tuning guides out there. Vex got the broad picture right, but klipper and marlin do things a bit different and I forget how marlin does it.

So an exact formula will depend on marlin and can be found a LOT of places

[shy kelp]

yeah you're right, I'm going to check tomorrow thanks
also I'm sorry for my language

[tall osprey]

How does klipper do it different
Like
It's steps per mm

That's pretty hardset math lol

[cunning hound]

IIRC, they are the inverse of eachother, one's steps per mm the other is distance per step?

It's been a while since I've messed with marlin though, maybe that's only on the extruder that they differ?

[tall osprey]

Oh duh that makes sense

Same math though

[cunning hound]

Yeah, but the exact formula winds up being different by like a 1/x or something simple

[balmy pulsar]

its not a formula, just basic math. how many teeth in the pulley, how many mm between each belt tooth, how many steps per turn

likewise the screws. ow many mm per turn

[cunning hound]

that is a formula. it's not a complex one, but it's still a formula.

[balmy pulsar]

ha

ok fair enough

[amber hearth]

anyone that tried out TMC5160 with NEMA23?