#general-chat
1 messages · Page 101 of 1
Hehe, yeah.
But I wouldn't put that on AI. Lots of people get them mixed up.
"Computer chips are made of silicon."
"Whaaa? The same thing they use for [REDACTED]???"
Lol
On a far less likely topic to invoke the mods, I have found a very dangerous site for me. It sells shiny things.
Ok, they're game tokens, but $6 could get me a stack of 30 metal cubes.
in pink
Silicone cookware would have been a far more wholesome object to come up with :P
To be fair, and at risk of crossing the line set by our mods, I would expect an LLM would be more likely to return a text on silicone's cookware-related applications than the... medical-grade anatomically-correct ones
Also, I just realized that, ironically enough, I typo'd silicone as silicon in my initial message. Please do not try anything adventurous with any silicon-based object 😆
Sometimes I wonder how people got into the positions they're in. We're having a bit of a spat at work with the good people in Nasdaq's web team who think it's totally normal and valid to send out emails with links that include raw unescaped spaces in them.
you know, I wanted to do a diy keyboard with a screen down the keys, but I never quite figured out an inexpensive way to have the keys with no parallax from the display. then I discovered that there are tv stones, but pricing varies and so its their quality, then there's the synthetic option called image conduits, which are really expensive and on top of that the only manufacturer that I've found schott, is not co-operative
that's why people end up doing business with china, cause homegrown business do not want to do business with you
and it's all about licensing and menial forms
schott is cooperative if you have millions of dollars in work for them
😛
but yeah, in the last 10 years especially chinese "front ends" to factories are super responsive to single parts, samples, small orders.
the us/japanese companies are changing to respond though. you used to get the "fu" price, or just no response. now i have companies like thk, lenze, etc more than happy to talk options.
ah also that, but I don't wanna talk! justt get my design and throw me a live quote, like jlc does
diverting a little bit argument, someone had luck with nat trasversal/avoidance on wireguard?
my isp router apparently does not let configure NATs, tailscale works fine, but I cannot use it at work, as it keeps an interface up even when not used. On the wireguard's docs it mentions keeping a value into "Persistent Keepalive" to enable it, but it does nothing, it does not work
@idle lion re the NINA-FW HTTP/HTTPS failures you are seeing: does it only fail for you on HTTPS? I was not sure based on the issue. If you more or less duplicate the failing test on, say, an ESP32, S2, or S3, does it work fine? I noticed you said it failed on the python server, but not nginx.
hm nvm netbird is just like tailscale, but with the ability to bring down the network interface
(Just FYI, running arbitrary software on work computers is a good way to get fired or, even worse, get in trouble for getting the company in legal trouble by violating non-commercial use licensing clauses)
I know, but gots loots of free time, and it just annoys me doing nothing or pretending to work
although there are better workarounds for said blocks/annoyances, they're also annoying
like on vms/safeboxes antiviruses/control systems cannot really touch anything
Looks like tailscale's free plan is "for personal use only". I do not know how litigious tailscale are, but chances are your company may find out about your extracurricular activities by way of their legal department receiving a cease and desist notice, perhaps with a request to pay "owed" license fees or get sued
This kind of thing happens more often than you think
in reality though they can see what you do,
cause I had the bad idea to tell the management to pretty much use an rmm, or a corpo word for a rat system to deal with pcs
we're a msp, it ended up being implemented in our pcs, but I have no access into it
next time I'll keep my mouth shut
Malware Bytes noticed a lot of connections from my place of work once, and sent an email to probably our legal team saying to knock it off.
If they only sent a C&D, that makes them one of the more lenient companies, all things considered
They may have also considered who we are. We're not government, but still the kind of name that they'd see and think "let's give them a little slack."
Working in healthcare or education?
That would be telling
That's fair ^^
It doesn’t fit?
shiny
? What happens if you move the pins from F into G or H instead? (And the pins in A to B or C)
(you don't want them to fit on one side of the board, you need the gap in the middle to separate the pins)
It fails for me with HTTP sending requests across a local network to python -m http.server So it is not only HTTPS/SSL it fails without also for me. But indeed both NGINX and Apache2 hosting the pages allow it to succeed
When it does fail with http.server most the time on the server side it thinks it was a successful 200 response as well.
ohh
I will add that in addition to straddling the gap ("Mind the gap!"), don't forget you can add wires under the board. Some people will complain about how the boards are sometimes so wide it only leaves one columns on each side, but you can wire underneath (you might need to pull the board off to get access then put it back down when you are done) and also you can bring out wires further down the breadboard where you have more open area.
🤩 are you putting a clearcoat or something on it to keep the finish?
is there more to this conversation somewhere? search is failing me, but I do a fair amount of HTTP wrangling
is that "set"!? 😍
It's a game with the same mechanics as Set. We ended up changing the name, and the shapes that are used on the cards so as not to run afoul of copyright or trademark. The finished project is documented here: https://learn.adafruit.com/match3-game-on-metro-rp2350
There is further discussion about it on the issue here: https://github.com/adafruit/nina-fw/issues/71
this guide might help too:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-sparkle-motion-mini/wled-config
titanium doesnt need a finish. it will stay shiny forever.
What do you do when you don't have the parts to make what you want and ypu can find what you need anywhere and you just have this overwhelming feeling of dread and you just don't know what to do
can -> can't? You start investigating design alternatives
plan b, c,
design for the parts that are available
Really, Tasker? Really?
It works though. I can now turn my Wiz lights on and off by...
Scanning an old Charlie Ticket.
It's handy, and prevents the ticket from becoming e-waste! What more to ask!
I only wish that I could do it with the phone locked, but that's probably a security thing I don't want to mess with.
Also sending to 192.168.1.255 for broadcast doesn't seem to work. Fortunately I only have two bulbs, and figured out how to pass local variables around Tasker. So minimal code duplication.
Just, woe upon me if the IP ever changes.
Set a DHCP reservation in your router so the IP doesn't change or you could set the IP statically on the device that's outside of your DHCP scope, too. Both are valid 🙂
IIRC you can also get lightbulbs that directly communicate with a remote control. Perhaps that option could be worth looking into to alleviate some of the jenga-ness of it all?
Oh honestly if I do anything further with this it'll be to setup automated light control with more advanced triggers than either Google or Wiz offers. The scanning NFC tags was just to be silly.
And yeah, I could probably set the DHCP reservations. Depends on how far I want to actually go with this.
Can also just disable DHCP lease expiration so your IPs never change on any devices. Usually fine for home users 🙂
Hello everyone! I'm new here and to all of this in general. I've mostly been brute-forcing my way through my project with ChatGPT and Gemini. 😅 Here is what I made and why I made it: https://www.instructables.com/Proximity-Switch/ Any feedback you could give about how to improve the project, improve the tutorial, use less hallucinating AI, maybe build an interface for the json code, be one of the cool kids, etc would be so much appreciated. Let me know if this is not the correct thread!
I have made a version with a time of flight sensor but haven't updated the tutorial with the json code yet. I have added mouse clicks and scrolling to the code but not to the tutorial because there are quite enough things that can go wrong already without adding more variables. My target audience is families, therapists, and educators who don't have the means to purchase several hundred dollars worth of equipment but need a way for their person/people to access technology.
Monitor giving me an error on a code.py on matrix portal running a crypto ticker. It says "under minimum refresh rate" for the function display.refresh()
Where auto-refresh was disabled
Lots of people join to get help with projects and then don’t check back after they finish in many cases
Hey!
Hello fellow newbies! What is everyone working on?
Wanna start on a new project. Thinking of building a kart
I succeeded in porting the library over
Backed up this project in like 3 places lol took me several days to get it
Surprised it compiled and then even more surprised it actually worked
Not sure the right channel for this?
A few years ago, there was a [post](#adafruit-blog-feed message) where Limor was showing off the STEMMA Friend as a UART Friend ... including mention of using PIO to enable automatic baud rate detection. Is this PIO UART with auto-baud detection available somewhere? If not, anyone know the details? (e.g., used two PIO + 4 State machines to do foo, bar, baz, and nippy)
I will inquire about this. I can't find the code.
Last thing I want to get to work is that Tetris clock. I can get it to boot up and connect to Wi-Fi but as soon as it gets and it sort of draw function. It crashes and reboots. But it still seem my IP and time on the serial
Wow that was word salad
Talk to text 🤣. I still see my IP address and my current time on the serial output, the draw function comes next and that's when it crashes
Ooo that sounds cool!
Iconic! Love that scene.
Is there a name to describe a circuit that is placed on top of a completely different circuit? Like a modchip or similar
Daughterboard is a common term used for that.
Hello! I am having an issue with my Airlift Wifi Featherwing Co-Processor where it throws "TimeoutError: ESP32 not responding" in serial console right after sucessfully connecting to any network. Would a firmware re-flash of the Airlift help with this or should I be looking elsewhere for problems? I am using the example code from adafruit for the Airlift, and is connected to a Feather M4 Express. I can't seem to find similar examples of this issue with the airlift where it can initially connect to a network and then crash immediately after. Any suggestions appreciated.
@sudden raven Arduino or CircuitPython? Is the behavior repeatable... connects to an AP fine, but then nothing, or does the behavior vary over attempts? It may help to show a photo of the hardware (with enough detail to see soldering and connections), and the code. What version of Airlift (NINA) firmware is on the FeatherWing?
my first guess for "ESP32 not responding" is (typically) a wiring issue
I'm trying to port a custom bytecode interpreter and it's slowly driving me insane
why is c++ so hard 😢
It is running CircuitPython, the behavior does sometimes vary over attempts (failing earlier) but most of the time it is able to get past inital connection, but can never complete the example code. I am not sure what version the Airlift Featherwing is running
I assume the stacking headers on the doubler board are soldered similarly? The solder joints are a bit heavy and not fully flowed in all cases, there could be a flaky connection on one of the SPI or related pins.
esp.firmware_version will give the NINA version
(assuming esp = adafruit_esp32spi.ESP_SPIcontrol(spi, ...)
it's worth a try to reflash the NINA firmware especially if it's an older version (like an original v1.2.2), though I suspect that's not the main issue
1.7.4
Interestingly enough it got farther than before this time, getting past the stage of pinging google on the test code
And a different stop error, "TimeoutError: Timed out waiting for SPI char"
that one may be a bit broader as far as causes go, it's been a while since I use Airlift
you may want to try to reflow the 6 pins used for ESP32SPI ...a tad more heat and/or dwell time to get a nice connection
Ok, ill pay special attention to those during reflow and report back, thanks!
IT WORKS! Thanks so much!
For the opposite reason of why Zig is easy. That is, C++ has decades of language features bolted onto each other, whereas Zig intentionally leaves features out of the language when they aren't sufficiently helpful.
I was thinking more along the lines of manual memory management is painful
I get why of course
but it's still miserable
I combined the two libraries and they work in unison without conflict. You just need 2 separate variables for the panel res. I forked it
Geometrical functions are handled by protomatter and then the actual display is driven by DMA
The buttons also still work and I removed the automatic gif increment change so it's just with buttons now
I was going to delete the extra variables but then I was looking at it just now and thinking wait. I need those 🤣
I get issues with "combine" gifs though. It doesn't interpret the layers right and it moves stuff around. You need to use "replace"
Ah ha, I knew I bought one of Adafruit's bi directional level shifters at some point. Now I can try connecting to my little LED controller over serial without potentially blowing up the USB to TTL cable since that does 3.3v signalling, but my board runs at 5v.
Well, I can try once I figure out a good way to source 3.3v since neither end supplies that.
Probably just stick a random Trinket M0 on the breadboard and steal its regulator output.
The highest programming voltage record I've ever seen on an OTP microcontroller just got broken
Cmsemicon SC8P series PIC MCU requires a 20V VPP to program
Also, each MCU costs 1.5 cents
also, Cmsemicon's IDE is kinda trash
There's no English and Chinese is gibberish when the system locale is set to anything that's not China
I am experimenting with SC8P052, which is a PIC14 OTP microcontroller
One cool thing about this MCU is that PWM generators get their own timer. Instead of having to use one of the system timer
heyyaa does anyone have a esp 32 c3 aliexpress link that doesn't have the antenna issue, thanks
Don't do AliExpress if you're looking for a very specific feature
Images are often not true to what they actually ship to you
yeah that's exactly why I'm asking lol, but ty someone else sent me a link 🙂
At least the programmer looks fire
Also, wow, USB-B cable in a recent device
What do you mean, the 3D renders aren't true to life? 😉
I was fighting with the programmer for the past hour or so
Then I figured out that if I remove the adapter board and let the programmer connect directly to the MCU it will "flash" just fine
"flash" in quotation because it's not flash inside, it's one time programmable e-fuses and I am literally blowing them with 20V programming voltage
Hey guys, I went into this discord server blindly, what's this server about?
burn!
How much code space does it have?
A bunch of geeks making cool stuff
Depends
The 1.5 cents one have 1k*14bits
Blinky working

What code language are you using?
It can be programmed in C or assembly
Though I guess with only 1kword code space, only raw asm would make sense
Also, seriously, 14 bit word size?
Although it supports C89, the manufacturer suggests to use C only as a means of manipulating control registers
Is it a full custom architecture, or is it based on a PIC or something?
It's always PIC, isn't it? :P
Yeah, always PIC
Kudo to Microchip for developing such a powerful and die-size efficient architecture
New asian microcontroller
Except Padauk
The original EEVBlog 3 cents microcontroller
But that's also PIC-inspired
Is C++ a good first language? Or should I switch to something else?
Disclaimer: I am Chinese
For MCU just do Arduino
Its a perfectly fine first language
Or just grab a PIC14 dev board with real Microchip PIC chip and learn assembly
I heard assembly is hard
If you do not know any programming at all, it would be best to start with a higher level language :)
PIC14 is very easy
x86 should be sacrificed to a volcano to atone for humanity's sins
I'm planning to start on learning ESP32 then learn Arduino afterwards
You can program ESP32 with Arduino!
x86 mood: Your computer wakes up thinking it is an 8086 from 1978
Ah so anything the Arduino can do esp 32 can aswell? But with WiFi and Bluetooth?
16 bits moment
Idk what those mean, I'm still a barebone beginner 😭
Segmented code moment @_@
What would you like to achieve?
I want to program stuff and make them work in terms of electronics (I'm still in SHS, so I don't know many terms but I'm learning)
I guess you would like to do some basic projects, you know, blink an LED, react to a switch being pressed, etc? Or do you have a more concrete goal in mind?
blink LEDs
If you just want to do LED blinking and such
And you have absolutely no experience. You should start with CircuitPython
Grab an ESP32S3 Feather or an RP2040 Feather
A breadboard and a bunch of LED and buttons
Yeah, like those stuff, I don't have a kit yet (though I'm considering of buying one) rn I'm trying to make very simple codes in C++ (like a unit converter for example)
That's all you'll need
Adafruit is the home of CircuitPython and Feather boards
It's an extremely beginner friendly programming language
You don't even need an IDE
I second this advice
What are those?
CircuitPython is Adafruit's programming language
Feather boards are beginner friendly dev boards made by Adafruit that's designed to run CircuitPython while also have decent Arduino support
https://learn.adafruit.com/welcome-to-circuitpython/what-is-circuitpython and https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather
Yeah, circuitpython is a simple programming language to interact with MCUs
Are those ESP32 MCUs?
There are ESP32 feathers
On the second link, some models contain a MCU from the ESP32 family. Not all.
What are feathers? I'm sorry for asking so much, I'm just very new at these stuff
read those links
jkjk
Added a note to myself to add a 104 capacitor between VCC and GND when flashing
Normally are the adafruit parts on amazon legit?
Or are they cheap chinese fakes? ;p
They are not fake unless they have adafruit logo
Also, I just tested the low power capability of this micro
Very impressive
Sleep mode around 700nA at 3V
And unable to measure at all with a multimeter
I have a curious question. How do you measure extremely low current without a specialized device?
Adafruit has a microcontroller board family called "Feather". They all have (essentially) the same pinout, but with different features. This one, for example, has an ESP32 controller on board. And you can program it in Circuit Python or Arduino.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5900
I guess you could use a sense resistor?
The best places to get Adafruit products locally in your region are listed here: https://www.adafruit.com/distributors
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : Hacker Spaces/Distributors Map - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireless Young Engineers 3D printing NeoPixels Kits & Projects Robotics & CNC Ac...
sense resistor?
a resistor that I measure the voltage between it's two legs?
How can I measure the voltage difference if the resistor is small and the current is low?
I am asking this because while the MCU only draws 700nA while sleeping, it still needs to drive LEDs and such when it's awake and those needs current. Which is why a large resistor is a no no.
this is why measuring small currents tends to need specialized devices. they usually have an amplifier to help measure small voltages on their sense resistors (and different value resistors for different ranges)
if you’re on a tight budget, you could manually switch sense resistors, but there’s some risk of bad behavior or damage if you’re not careful enough
DMM in voltage mode and a sense resistor will do better than an analog meter for small currents, though 700nA will be tricky
Yeah, I barely tested that 700nA with a digital meter
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5048 this works fairly well, and is relatively inexpensive for what it does

Thank you! I will take a look
My other way of measuring MCU's sleep current is to just put it on a 3V coin cell battery
if the batter still contains enough power after a week for it to operate normally I will say it's a win
In fact I am doing that right now with my new Cmsemicon chip
Though distributors in other EU countries might have better stock of specific products.
Yeah, that's the problem, but it was the only thing I could think of to do it without specialized tools -- Keep in mind I'm not an engineer though
I've heard good enough stuff about the power profiler kit ii mentioned above, so much so that I have been considering getting one
btw this thing is getting rare in China nowadays
I've seen them at local markets. Perhaps I should get one as decoration before they completely disappear :)
Everybody is using DMMs from KeySight, Fluke, etc
Go for it
When I see "fluke", I can't help but think of the liver fluke haha
They make great stuff, but the name is a bit cursed :P
I used a KeySight DMM at my friends place and I freaking love it
For me myself I just use that analogue meter
Yeah, that is one of their good points
It does require two batteries 1.5V and 9V for resistance
I guess you can also easily visualize variations in current draw because of the physical needle movement
Oh yeah, that's super useful
I remember reading some blog reporting that Shenzhen electronics repair stores use needle ammeters to infer how far in the boot process a phone reaches by the "dance" of the needle
No idea whether that is true or not though!
Oh that is very cool then :D
Although more and more repair shops digitised those things
How?
Just looking at the display on the power supply
Ah. That would make sense, but I feel it's less intuitive
They also started to use thermal cameras to find unusual hotspots

It seems thermal cameras have gotten quite down in price lately
The aliexpress going price appears to be ~EUR80 for a basic one?
Because a lot of Chinese manufacturers are making them
I guess in China it is a lot more common to have your stuff repaired?
Where I live, there is only a single repair shop that does microsoldering/board-level repair
And I did not even know it existed until a coworker mentioned it
Yeah, ideology difference
You probably won't believe it but I got a cheap one for 40EUR ;p
But it's resolution was absolutely horrible
I’ve seen those modules with horrible res, is there anything nearing 640x480 for frugal hobbyist prices
hahahahaha, nope!
Update on “get the latest marlin and run my ender 3 into the ground”
Ignore LCD damage, a brake pad got dropped >>
Hi all! Been like 10 years since I last soldered. Are these joints looking okay?
I just got a toy bytecode interpreter running on a pico (reading code files from an SD card)
Now to optimize it and add some fun builtin functions...
I hate bash scripting.
I also hate trying to learn any of it because the top results from google kind of tend to omit some of the finer details.
Like how to actually format a conditional for an if statement.
But now I can toggle my smart lights by clicking a file on my computer.
They look "OK". What I am noticing, especially on the top side where the resistors sit, it that it looks like you are mainly heating up the pads and not the pads AND component lead at the same time. You need to push your iron into the junction of the wire and pad so both are getting direct heat. Otherwise you get solder flowing down through the plated thru holes but if you look closely at the resistor lead, the soilder is not nicely "wetting" onto some of those leads. It sort of forms a hard to see ring around the lead which means it isn't wetting onto the lead properly.
That's really helpful, thank you!
the mitch altman comic is good on how to solder https://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf
also something i learnt recently is that 63/37 solder is better than 60/40 due to the ratio being closer to an eutectic alloy, so the solder doesn't have a "mushy" state between liquid and solid
@raw jasper
Music playback on the 1.5 cents microcontroller
Let me see my resource usage
Program size 148 words out of 1k words
RAM usage 21 bytes out of 64 bytes
... I just spent hours trying to optimize my code and it turns out I just had a random delay call in one of my functions 😭
Also... I read the price wrong
1.5 cents is the one with flash memory
The OTP microcontroller I am using costs 0.9 cents each
ooh nice! How are you storing the audio data?
music card
burned into the actual OTP chip
Behaviour matches the ICE
Music card = uncompressed 8khz sample rate PCM, or do you have something "fancier" going on?
(Also, which song are you playing?)
6khz
just a random Chinese TikTok song
Now complete the cycle and upload it to tiktok!
:D
Yilu Shenghua
from left to right: MCU, music card, H bridge
That H bridge is a motor driver chip
What for?
Driving the speaker
Now I think about it, it's really like Tiger Electronics HitClips
But modular
I found out about that toy as an adult via the internet. I am still unsure about the point, considering no-name portable CD players had gotten inexpensive enough by that time
btw that music card also contains metadata and track data
On compatible players you can select which track to play
On this one it just reads all the track data and play them in a loop
Seriously though, I think it should be possible to make Web Videos (youtube, tiktok, etc) out of this kind of thing -- Showcase random micros & their devtools, plus an abridged summary of the effort to getting the music card program ported on them. People who do not understand any of this will still get to listen to a bitcrushed tiktok song in the end ;P
I can already see the clickbait title for this one: "I burned this song permanently using ⚡ 20 Volts⚡"
I mean, you could try.. You do have experience being a stream host after all
I could certainly see myself watching that kind of thing
And nobody covers the Asian/Chinese micro ecosystem
Probably due to the fear to Microchip
You know, 8 out of 10 Chinese cheapo micros are PIC
Then 1 ARM and 1 8051
Well maybe 3 ARMs nowadays
No 6502? 😔
No 6502
There are Taiwanese 6502s
Nyquest NY8LP series
But no Chinese 6502 as I am aware
I would still like to play with the SunPlus chips that were in the Wii clones of old that had an almost-NOAC/famiclone video IP onboard
nowadays SunPlus just make things like automobile infotainment and DVD players
There's another company called GeneralPlus that's still producing voice chips with interesting CPU core
It's also the company that's in charge of Disney's starwars lightsaber and robot toys
designed a board in KiCAD to host the playback IC
Now let's see if JLCPCB is willing to manufacture for me... It's so tiny
Any knock-offs of https://www.raspberrypi.com/news/what-is-pio/ yet?
I think WCH have something similar to PIO
More like inspired by rather than a direct copycat, but I know https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgG9z5RAmRw is a similar thing.
This presentation gives a preview of a peripheral new to the ESP32-P4: the Bitscrambler. The Bitscrambler is a programmable device integrated into the DMA stream that is able to do very fast bit operations, in order to make existing peripherals more capable.
They call it PIOC
WCH is an IC design company that designs chips based on self-developed professional interface IP and microprocessor IP. Its main products include USB/Bluetooth/Ethernet interface chips and connected/interconnected/wireless MCUs, which focus on connectivity, networking and control.
Hmmmmmm
They are using suspicious words like "RISC" and "words"
This is probably just a PIC core embedded in the RISC-V MCU
PIC, always PIC 
That reminds me of the RISC-V core that's embedded inside of an ARM Cortex-M33 MCU for a similar purpose: https://docs.nordicsemi.com/bundle/ps_nrf54L15/page/vpr.html
Also ESP32-S3
RISC-V core in XTensa
I just don't understand our obsession with PIC cores
I know it's small and compact and super easy to learn
well I guess that's the reason
Let's hope Microchip won't see those parts
They are probably still selling PIC10F200 for 1 dollar each...
Which micon will you be using for the Official TikTok Song Music Card PCB[TM]?
I guess it's kind of like how the IBM's PC ossified itself as the industry standard for personal computing..
But Microchip never licensed their PIC cores
That's just the MCU as a modular breakout
To be fair, intel would not have licensed their design to AMD either were it not for the US gov's second source requirements at the time
Yeah, I was wondering which MCU it was
the 0.9 cents mcu
OK! To be fair, you have ported this code to at least 50 MCUs by now
half of them might be PICs, but still :P
Let me count
AVR:
Microchip ATMEGA328P (the OG, hence the MEGA name)
8051:
Nuvoton MS51FB9AE
ARM:
ST STM32F103
ST STM32F030
HDSC HC32F460
HDSC HC32L160
PUYA PY32F030
PUYA PY32F003
Raspberry Pi RP2040
PIC:
Cmsemicon SC8P052
It's the first time on PIC!

It basically became my standarised development evaluation program
if I can code a MEGAHits player in less than an hour, then the platform has a great SDK
That video mentions using PIO to generate HD video. I wonder if anyone's actually done that with an RP2040.
I can think of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhhLoVBpg48 , but that was not a rp2040, and it was not in HD
2nd place in the Wild compo at Revision 2025. Yay!
A detailed writeup is available here: https://www.linusakesson.net/scene/kaleidoscopico/index.php
Kudos to the Revision recording crew for helping me capture the video!
Not Full HD, only HD, but https://github.com/Wren6991/PicoDVI
This is pretty ot
But something like a really small lock that can hold closed zips?
even something that's like electromagnetic that can be activated through nfc
(I doubt that it would be enough to power up the magnet, but maybe if small enough... I doubt)
I have the bothersome problem of people putting hands in my portfolio
can't tell if its some work partners as there are no cameras or someone at home
but I'm sick of it, this won't solve the root cause, but at least makes their life harder
or maybe I should opt for one of those ink traps
I mean you could just use a lock
If there’s not two zips you could loop one section of the lock through something else, or make a hole for that
too big, the tiniest one do like open with your hands
I mean as more of a deterrent, from the message it looks like they’re just looking inside, poking around, not stealing anything
If there’s a barrier which requires effort to overcome it might be enough to deter them
Unless it already does require effort in which case yeah it wouldn’t change much
Sounds like this board actually makes use of the PIO functionality to generate video. https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-rp2040-dvi/overview
Yo anyone had issues with no clean flux causing rust? It appears to be off gassing also
I'm wondering the best way to clean this?
It's literally forming on all my equipment?
I’ve been doing this but with a normal Pico (RP2040) running the PicoDVI library, it works pretty well
The Pico 2 acts as the CPU, and the Pico emulates a ST7789 SPI display so it can just receive normal display commands (like displayio stuff) - but rather than sending it to an embedded TFT display it sends it all to the HDMI port
yeah unfortunately a lot of no-clean flux is still corrosive as silly as it sounds. (brand name stuff is generally better)
high % IPA is usually my go to for flux cleaning. you can technically get flux cleaning chemicals, but IPA + and old tooth brush (or those conductive plastic brushes you can get) work wonders.
@lapis anchor It legit got all over my tools
Even stuff that wasn't near my soldering tools
That's what is kinda concerning to me
and you're sure it's the flux? what brand, out of curiosity?
This no clean liquid soldering flux is an tool for electrical soldering and aluminum soldering projects. The 50ml dropper bottle allows for precise application, ensuring optimal flux coverage on your workpiece. Designed to promote strong solder joints and prevent oxidation during the soldering pr...
I used it like one time
I am lowkey kinda rattled
It literally caused rust on components across my table
huh, that seems... odd. was this an overnight occurence? sure you don't have high humidity in your room? (basements are notorious for high humidity for example)
you use any other cleaning stuff when you were done? I've never had that issue but to be fair I've always stuck with MG Chemcials personally
I mean it's possible the flux cleaned whatever oil/etc was on your tools protecting them 🤷♂️
Nope I used nothing else
But I don't think the tools had oils on them?
I'll send a few more pictures
I mean even finger oils can help protect against rust.. it's basically oxygen + water == rust.
hmm, I'd be more inclined to think it's a moisture issue then personally. I'd kind of expect it to be more noticible more quickly if it was related to the flux. (just speculation, not actually sure)
Maybe. The big thing is the VOC count was reading high
The flux should've evaporated by now
can always do a controlled test - put a few drops of flux in a small plastic box and put a tool in there for a few days and see what happens?
That's interesting
how long ago did you use the flux? lol? and is the room fairly well ventilated? could be other chemicals causing the VOC too
Like what other chemicals?
insert long list here
🤷♂️ lol what other stuff do you have in the lab? anything offgassing in a bottle?
(maybe the flux?)
yeah your ventilation sounds extremely poor, or you have a bad sensor/something else going on

You think that might be it?
still though, your VOC shouldn't be THAT high with a small bottle of flux sitting there
That VOC is a raw value
It goes through Sensiron's algorithm
It's like a moderate VOC
I was reading 650ppm of CO2 the first time I measured now reading like 900ppm
yeah I'm going with ventilation/something else. but easy way to verify... vent the room out (fans/whatever) - put the flux in container of sorts (not sure what is susceptible to flux, might be fine with a ziploc bag? glass jar/container would work too)
I mean it feels like poor ventilation from what you're telling me
It is a basement
even if it was offgassing from a needle... if you had SOME ventilation, that shouldn't be an issue
With all closed windows
I might toss the flux because i got new better flux anyways
worth checking if you have a local chemical recycling/disposal place, probably better than tossing it in the garbage 🙂
Waste Management takes old chemcials for free here
I took your advice and put it in a zip lock and just threw it into a drawer
You're probably right tho
The elevated VOCs was probably from the flux
That's exactly the type of thing it detects
I just didn't expect it to be able to detect it like that
This is exactly why I made this project to understand chemical exposures lol
FYI, if your CO2 sensor is not regularly exposed to air containing a baseline CO2 concentration (consult sensor datasheet for what said baseline level would be), its calibration is eventually gonna drift off
Also, non-ventilated basement... Hopefully you have checked that you are not accumulating radon....
radon mitigation systems (at least, in my area) don't vent basement air, they vent from under the concrete slab, so it wouldn't help with gases produced in the basement itself
The consideration was that regular ventilation would reduce the potential concentration of radon in the room.. It would most probably not be a substitute for proper radon mitigation!
could be, depending on the prevalence of radon in the area. I learned (the hard way) that testing radon with open windows gives different results from closed windows, and couldn't get the home seller to pay for a mitigation system at that point
I am not an expert on the matter, and, if radon is a thing in one's area, they should be consulting an expert, not reading what a rando on the internet (like me :P) has to say!
Always good advice
Hopefully you have managed to install a mitigation system have a mitigation system installed now..
No, I consulted an expert who did the installation 🙂
agreed, grammatical nuance is important ^^
Sorry, I was typing between things and was not careful with my phrasing
is there any fpga ecosystem like what you get with esp32
It looks like Adafruit no longer stocks any FPGA containing products: https://www.adafruit.com/category/69
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : FPGA - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireless Young Engineers 3D printing NeoPixels Kits & Projects Robotics & CNC Accessories Cosplay/Costumin...
I was just teasing, and emphasizing your point!
what happened?
Anyone know what the shaft inside threading is for this?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3802
Sup chat
I think it's m2.5
Thanks! I'm going to see if I can take it to Lowe's today and check it on their size tester. I'll start with that!
Well, thread carefully.
Their tester only went down to M4. They had M3 screws, but those were too big. I found an M2.5 screw in an old IC heatsink I have that almost fit, but the threading isn't right. Visually I can't see much difference, but at that size it's hard to tell by eye. (Also, it's hard to see inside the tiny hole to begin with.) My guess right now is that it is probably M2.5 fine thread. Measuring the hole with my calipers as accurately as possible (which may not be very accurate due to tapering to allow screws to enter and engage more easily), it appears to be too large for 2 gauge imperial screws, and I checked it against a 4-40 screw at Lowe's, the screw size was too large.
I'm hesitant to just guess and buy M2.5 fine thread screws online (given that I'm on a tight budget right now), but it seems like the only option, unless someone from Adafruit or with more experience with the motor actually knows what it takes.
Well
I blew a MCU
accidently put 53V into a 5V MCU (the 0.9 cents MCU)
magic smoke was out
i once did that with a 328p, fed it 20V thinking it was 5V, but it worked for a while until it started behaing erratically and slowly stopped working. only noticed it when i went to pick it up and it was boiling hot lol
the magic smoke is part of the learning experince
i've burned out a few sensors wiring them backwards or with too much voltage
I wonder how many potential magic smoke situations have been avoided due to the widespread use of https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-adafruit-stemma-qt/what-is-stemma-qt
...and then there is I who managed to kill a 328p by merely touching it (while being ever so sliiiiiightly statically charged :P)
Finally got my hands on a QTpy and some BFF's. The dilemmas of stacking them are real. Sorting out which ones get which headers and such is taking some time to figure out.
I just want to stemma qt everything.
Only if everyone followed StemmaQT
I designed the music card that's being used on my bit crushed music player so that if it's connected backwards, it won't die
(but that 53V incident still killed it)
Not everyone, but there are many boards from other companies that are mostly compatible (details on compatibility: https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-adafruit-stemma-qt/stemma-qt-comparison#cross-compatibility-3199278).
Such as https://shop.pimoroni.com/en-us/collections/qwst-and-spce?special=Pimoroni Originals and https://www.sparkfun.com/development-boards/microcontrollers.html?sf_global_qwiic_connector=8262&sf_original_product=1 / https://www.sparkfun.com/sensors.html?sf_global_qwiic_connector=8262
Qw/ST and SP/CE? Many of our boards feature special connectors for easy and reliable connections, eliminating the need for loose jumper leads and pin headers. The main advantage of using Qw/ST and SP/CE boards is that you can wire your entire project without soldering, making it easy to disassemble projects and reuse c
SparkFun Electronics is an online retail store that sells the bits and pieces to make your electronics projects possible.
SparkFun Electronics is an online retail store that sells the bits and pieces to make your electronics projects possible.
forgot about pimoroni
was gonna buy some stuff from them but forgor 3 days later
If you have a local Micro Center, they have a limited selection of Pimoroni products available for in-store pickup. They're great for last-minute purchases like that.
oh i aint got any microcenter near me, i would have to spend like 2 days driving to the states or take a flight
actually i dont think theres anywhere in my city that does pi stuff, we have a memoryexpress and your average component shop for resistors and whatnot but nothing for SBCs, we do have robotics in the northern part of the city tho 
what is your guys opinion on chips without any markings on them
bad
to me it sucks
especially when I have multiple of them from different vendors performing different duties soldered onto identical DIP-8 adapter boards
Indicates potentially less-than-officially obtained chips
Better than wire-bonded ASIC + epoxy blob though
most of my MCU and speech synthesizer chips have no marking on them from the manufacturer
So designers don't have to sand them afterwards
I thought they laser-etched them off though
nah, when i asked them why there's no marking on the top they said "it costs double to laser mark the chip twice"
to their credit they still put lot number on the back of the package
TIL random PIC clone manufacturers have better customer support than 99% of companies
It does!
It's so easy to connect with an FAE and they will be very happy to answer your questions live
come on Microchip!
Yesterday I reported an issue with Cmsemicon's IDE, they gave me an updated build with the issue fixed in less than an hour
All we need to do is convince microchip to get on WeChat :P
Oh yeah
Texas Instruments is on WeChat though
And they do a lot of cool stuff in China
like sponsoring competitions
Is CMsemicon's website literally mcu.com.cn?
yeah
I think Texas Instruments is one of the coolest chip maker
They make cool things and do cool stuff
They even own a fab in China
i like ti, i find their docs easy to read for the most part and they did the funni of making 1 computer (ti-99) then no more after it didnt do so hot 
Oh wow their website also comes in English
If it's primarily for looks, wouldn't a flat heatsink with a thermal pad serve that purpose just as well?
engineers sand them off to prevent reverse engineering
and chip makers don't laser marks to cut cost
They also do 8051 and ARM
So not marking chips is a win win
Oh, when you said "designers", I thought you were referring to the people that design enclosures of products.
Marie Kondo noises this chip does not spark joy
if i had small bins of ICs and chips they would probably get mixed quick
organization isnt my thing so at most they're getting organized by what they do
Also, off topic, picked this action figure up today
theres someone in my city selling miku crane game figures and once a month i'm tempted to buy one since the seller lives like 2 blocks away
If you're an engineer in China developing consumer electronics
An IC bin will be your biggest enemy
Speaking of preventing reverse engineering, are there any products on the market that self-destruct when any tampering is detected, for that purpose specifically? The only products I'm aware of that do this are HSMs and the Nintendo Switch 2.
You can do it from the software
Now augment it with your music card (flashed with vocaloid songs) and build cyborg miku-nendroid!
point of sale card machines
if that counts as a product
POS systems.
Also, I swear I've seen people tear down the switch 2 and then have it boot up normally.. Nintendo reserves the right to brick your console if you mess with the software or install a modchip or whatever, but they had that right at least since the DS
Not possible for OTP chips though, because to modify their ROM data you need high voltage circuit, which are not present on the chip themselves due to cost cutting
Case in point: Wii sports box reading "unauthorized technical modifications [...] may render this game unplayable"
i cant think of any specific software in recent memory, there was that cool hockey puck looking mini pc tho that if you tried to physically tamper with it, it would wipe the entire thing https://youtu.be/sZKtHvbAk98
ORWL is a tamper-proof PC that will erase all your data if someone touches it the wrong way! Now that's cyber-security!
Try Tunnelbear for free, no credit card required, at https://www.tunnelbear.com/LTT
Check out the EK-Modular Liquid Cooling Phoenix lineup at http://geni.us/Q87Aq4E
Buy ORWL on Amazon http://geni.us/Vr5mxC1
Buy ORWL: https:/...
Couldn't they keep a microcontroller in sleep mode for the lifespan of the product, with a coin cell battery for backup power? All they would need is to burn a bootloader that has an equivalent of UART Boot (as described in chapter 5.8 of the RP2350 datasheet) into the OTP memory, then connect an external flash chip during the initial boot at the factory.
The coin cell would probably be more expensive than the micro
Exactly
You're thinking like a (Chinese) engineer now
that you can buy, I dunno.
you can somewhat do it with linux gadgets and using the ram as storage
I can't complain with those speeds.
Do we think this is fixable or just order a new one?
looks fixable, idk if just a iron and some flux would work but if you happen to have some wire wick you could probably clean the pins/pads up with that then solder the header back on to the pads
If it sparks at all you probably don’t want to keep it either…
what makes quantum imu accurate when normal dead reckoning isn't
hey, can I use a few Adafruit RP2040 CAN Bus Feather with MCP2515 CAN Controller to build a can network? the price is very attractive, but I have trouble to assess how it compares to arduino mkr can shield. It seems like Adafruit's version has more features, but it's also based on different chip. My question is, can I use that can feather for the same applications as arduino mkr can shield?
they have the same can controller, so it should be good, right?
for starters I want to build a simple project with two devices communicate through can bus, and then I want to slowly extend it with sensors and more devices into a small network.
The MKR CAN Shield is based on the MCP2515 CAN controller and the TJA1049 CAN transceiver
https://docs.arduino.cc/hardware/mkr-can-shield/
That's the same chip used for CAN by Adafruit for RP2040 and other microcontrollers that don't have built-in CAN. So the CAN functionality should be the same. MKR [Zero] is a 48MHz SAMD21/M0+ with 256KB Flash, 32KB RAM. The RP2040 is a [dual-core] 133MHz M0+ with varying amounts of SPI flash depending on the board, and 264 KB RAM.
Another option is to use a microcontroller that has CAN built in (like the ESP32-S3, they call it TWAI), then just add transceivers to each node.
The advantage of a Adafruit RP2040 CAN Bus Feather or Feather M4 CAN Express is that they have the controller and transceiver on-board, so it's all in one. But if you want smaller size or flexibility, something like an ESP32-S3 + CAN transceiver may be good. CAN Bus FeatherWing or CAN Bus Pi[co]Cowbell are also possibilities to add controller+transceiver to any non-CAN Feather or Pico (perhaps like an RP2350, the newer beefed up version of the RP2040).
tl;dr: yes, you can add CAN Bus to almost any microcontroller, and they should be interoperable
Thank you! I'm deep in docs now 🙂 It looks like adafruit's CAN feather is the way for me, and I like the price, haha. I will check the other options you've recommended, but at a first glance it looks like that feather will be the most universal, and I can move from there with adding stuff and mixing in more complex solutions. I like that I can easily throw some sensor on top of it with the stemmaQT connector. Thank you!
oh, you have a can bus for qtpy, awesome, even better!
Adafruit does, I'm just a rando 😉
I'm just a rando
Not just any rando, a circuitpythonista rando.
well, you are a great-helper-rando 🙂
Video from someone who built an eight-neuron analog artificial neural net to control an RC car. It (eventually) managed to navigate around the room fairly well. He appears to be using two LEDs as an optocoupler for the synapses. Interesting choice.
I wonder how difficult it'd be to reduce this to, say a field-programmable neuron array. I don't really think you'd need optical synapses, so that might make it more practical. A chip with a few thousand neurons would definitely be interesting to play with.
The GSN SNN 4-8-24-2 is a hardware based spiking neural network that can autonomous control a remote control vehicle. There are 8 artificial neurons and 24 artificial synapses and is built on 16 full-size breadboards. Four infrared proximity sensor are used on top of the vehicle to determine how far it is away for objects and walls. The sensor d...
I want to build it now, lol. I have other stuff to build first, but this is next on the list!
I did find this paper from Georgia Tech, where it looks like it's almost entirely analog.
https://hasler.ece.gatech.edu/Published_papers/Neuron_papers/HMM_dendrite/FPNA_2006.pdf
sure
I am Juan from NYC, software engineer at Momar, Inc🙂
I’m looking to connect with business owners here to discuss a potential idea and explore opportunities for collaboration
I have good experience in integration with Travel APis, Flight API, POS, Social Media, Healthcare, Weather & Geolocation APIs.
What are HSMs?
Ah, I was guessing some sort of home medical system or cable TV decoder!
@late fulcrum : FYI, apparently unihertz is planning to release a new qwerty phone:
Discover the Unihertz Titan 2 QWERTY keyboard smartphone. The Titan 2 is the latest 5G Android 15 smartphone with a physical QWERTY keyboard for enhanced productivity. Featuring a 4.5" square screen, a 50MP camera, a rear screen for convenient selfies, and a long-lasting 5050 mAh battery. Order Titan 2 now and redefine your mobile experience!
Oho! Colour me intrigued!
Same here -- I am not going to preorder it, but if it gets released and has good reviews, I will seriously consider getting one
Also, for some reason I did not remember you used UK English 😅
As I'm unemployed at the moment, I won't be preordering much of anything, but yeah, I'll keep my eyes out to see how it goes.
I picked up a habit of UK English from a lot of the books I read as a kid
Wishing you all the best wrt dealing with the job market
gotta send it to my boss, he somehow still uses blackberry stuff
too bad it's a mediatek... but that's makes me wonder, how come all "unortodox" phones do mount mediatek stuff?
Probably chip, driver, and documentation availability and (of course) price
Back in the days of XDA, mediateks were quite disregarded as they did not provide any tooling/docs
But likely that's not the case when you're a corpo with money
Why don’t anti aircraft systems fire volleys where the missiles coordinate flight paths with each other so the aircraft is in a missile path regardless of direction, after a lock happens
What dictates which carrier you get when placing an order? Sometimes I get multiple choices while other times I am stuck with one choice.
I think sometimes it's batteries and they can only go UPS ground
ok makes total sense now
current order has a battery and last one didn't
thank you! 🙂
Is Unihertz going to provide proper software updates? I've been wanting one for a while, but heard that they're really bad about it
I have absolutely no idea, as I have never used any of their phones. In theory, if they are planning to sell to the EU in an official capacity, they must now provide updates for (IIRC?) 5 years, so.. who knows?
fair
I just dislike touch keyboards enough to frequently look up if somebody is making a phone with a physical keyboard
https://energy-efficient-products.ec.europa.eu/product-list/smartphones-and-tablets_en
availability of operating system upgrades for longer periods (at least 5 years from the date of the end of placement on the market of the last unit of a product model)
Ecodesign requirements will apply to smartphones, feature phones, cordless phones and slate tablets placed on the EU market from 20 June 2025 onwards.
https://www.reddit.com/r/unihertz/comments/1lk1e1o/titan_2_being_upgraded_to_at_least_to_android_17/
"we are not able to provide with the monthly updates on the regular basis"
At least they are honest about it
On the other hand, it's not as if most other android OEMs are any better in that regard
yeah... I wish the mobile phone landscape were better
I don't quite get the whole updates thing, as long it works I don't care
...but security! I don't know what they're actually updating in the first place
All Android apps require a certain version of Android or newer. The exact cutoff version is chosen by developers, but will often mean an old smartphone is unusable with many softwares.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUdro-6u2Zg had no idea this existed very cool, was doing a rangefinder with a diode and webcam
A plain laser diode can easily measure sub-micron vibrations from centimeters away by self-mixing interferometry! I also show how this technique can be used for range-finding.
http://sci-hub.tw/http://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1464-4258/4/6/371/pdf
help! What's a main functional difference between Adafruit RP2040 CAN Bus Feather with MCP2515 CAN Controller having CAN bus circuitry via SPI and physical CAN bus on Feather M4 CAN Express with ATSAME51? The first one has a MCP2515 CAN transceiver, the second one has a CAN bus on the chipset. Is there some advantage chosing one feather over the other? The pi based has more SPI flash and (I think) stronger processor and a stemma qt connector. The ATSAME51 based has more RAM and weaker processor.
I read the docs, but I still have a trouble to assess which would be better for my purpose of building a simple network with bunch of devices and sensors communicating through CAN. I want to start with two devices, and then extend CAN - my end goal is to recreate an industrial network at home.
I now understand why people get Arduino even though it's more expensive with limited functionality, bahahahah, they just have one thing doing certain stuff, and you don't get into weeds that maybe one day I will need that obscure function 😄
You may find in practice that having more flash and RAM is more important than differences in the processor (120 MHz M4 vs. 133 MHz (dual-core, if you can really take advantage of it) M0+).
It all depends on how complex the application is. Both processors are fine for CAN plus a few sensors. The nice thing is, you don't have to commit... you CAN mix and match per node 😉
yeah, I thought about that, nobody ever complained about more RAM, haha. That's true about mixing and matching, and I may end up doing it just for a sake of experimentation if I will encounter some limitations of one or the other in practice. So basically, in terms of CAN itself, there's not much difference between having transceiver like in case of the M0+ based, and having CAN on the chipset like in case of M4 based?
The transceiver is an independent part of the picture, as long as you have one doesn't matter if it's "integrated" on the board, or separate. Any of these CAN options will talk to each other.
oh, ok, I understand they will talk to each other, just wondered if there's some advantage having one on the chipset or one as tranceiver?
I did some very unscientific testing a while back, and I did observe more reliable far baudrates with built-in CAN than with SPI CAN, but YMMV. Personally, I like Espressif + transceiver for a high-flash/RAM option with native CAN (+wifi!). You really may want to get a couple of configs to start and see what works best for you.
yeah, I guess this is the way, just experiment and see. Thank you so much for your patience and explanations 🙂
Oh, your question is more about native vs SPI, rather than transceiver... In theory, should be no difference but maybe there's some rate difference... whether it's true for you or makes any difference for you is... 🤷
Fortunately, they are in prices which don't prohibit experimentation 🙂 Idk, sometimes I get stuck on 'I need to choose the perfect thing'. I guess I will grab one of each, and move from there. Thank you.
when I saw some reliability differences at high speed (1 MHz), I was really pushing a lot of data fast... not a typical CAN scenario (my long emoji strings on CAN Bus lol)
I agree, it may be that even if there's a difference, it won't limit me. 😄
500 kHz is pretty fast for 8-byte packets
ok, thank you so much.
ok, I ordered both, now the worst part - waiting 😄
I've been referred here by the dude who made Bottango in hopes of figuring out what might be going on with my setup as I can't get the servos to move although I set the animatronic project up as it was suggested, the servos won't move. They do work, as I've tested them individually via an arduino uno with the coding from a learning kit, just not set up with the esp32, servo driver, 12 servos (regardless that i also tested with only one or two at points), DC 5v power cord w/attachment, and m/m & m/f jumpers.
I'd probably recommend heading to #help-with-projects and post a picture of your wiring including the specs of the power supply you're using. For 12 servos, I'd highly recommend a separate power supply from the one powering the board, but you should at least be able to get something to happen with a servo.
A separate power supply outside of the one I bought exclusively for the servo driver? The only other power is through the data/power cord connected to the esp32. I'll try to do a specs pic (never made one on the computer, but printed pics of the items and made notes as to which jumper wires attach where for my own comprehending).
I'm not familiar with Bottango, so not exactly sure what you're looking at personally - but assuming your dedicated supply for the server driver has enough power to run the servos, you should be fine with that. Servos are noisy is why I generally recommend using a separate power supply for the MCU vs the servo drivers, alleviates potential issues with brownouts/bad signal readings/etc.
for specs pic I was just thinking of the power supply itself, usually the label works fine or if you have a link from where you purchased it - that would work too 🙂
but that whole saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies here, might be something like you're missing grounds between the connections, might be the wrong GPIO pin being used 🤷♂️
I posted what I could given I'm not at home and typing on my cell... now I guess I wait...
@tight tulip, I decided to bring this discussion to #general-chat, because it's slightly tangential to your original question. I see you have the Estonia flag in your Discord profile. So, have you ever shopped at websites such as DigiKey (https://www.digikey.ee/en) and/or Mouser (https://www.mouser.ee/)? Although I've only used the former domestically (both have their warehouses located in the USA), DigiKey has free delivery on most orders over €50, and claims that most orders arrive to Estonia in two to four days. Although I cannot find similar wording on Mouser's website, adding enough items to the cart produced a similar estimate for both delivery time and cost.
I see, I have never used them in Estonia (never knew that I could use them here), I have used Mouser before in the UK when I designed the motor control and power system for the hydrogen vehicle using supercapacitors. I am unsure about the shipping speed, but cheers, I will try to find components. Thank you so much!
FYI, from within the EU, I have also used https://www.reichelt.com for some components I could not find on mouser or digikey. They seem to offer shipping to Estonia too, so I figured I might as well forward you a link in case it helps you.
Also, do tell more about your hydrogen vehicle, it sounds super interesting
über 150.000 Artikel aus Technik & Elektronik online kaufen bei reichelt.de . Schnelle Lieferung & günstige Preise - reichelt elektronik - Technik verbindet.
Does Adafruit make an equivalent of Arduino Portenta? I think no, because I can't find anything similar on the website, but maybe I missed something?
I found equivalents of uno, mkr, nano, and giga so far 😄
Don't forget the Pro Micro equivalent: https://www.adafruit.com/product/5302
Are the memes that DigiKey is posting any good? https://www.youtube.com/@digikey/posts
Some are ok. But then as I scrolled down I see they start repeating the same joke just with different pictures. Lame!
I should make a variation of this... Need to find a template...
Ok, no more memes from me. I just had to do this though.
Interesting bugs with the Matrix portal. When using the GIF player, if you don't have enough power hooked up to your panel, the board will crash and then has to be factory reset
It ran a couple of them fine but when I did the Matrix neo spin it just crashed
That's testing with a 1 amp charge port in my car
Those USB ports on my Tower that still run when the computer is off... Those give enough
Same thing happens if you try to load new gifs while it's running. You need to flash it back to circuit python, set up your gift folder, then flash it back to the GIF player
Everything can emit light... (at least) once
That claim is very common on r/sh*ttyaskelectronics. They even have a term for it: light-emitting resistor (LER)
You mean, like this? 😆
Very off topic
But here are my two mihoyo plushes
Also, Cmsemicon WRITER8 Lite is extremely picky about the programming wiring
a 30cm cable from the programmer to the OTP will give you a 99% success rate (not high)
And a mere 15cm longer cable will bring that success rate to 0%
A breadboard that holds the SOP socket will also 0% the success rate
Which is kinda crazy
30cm ~= 1ns signal delay if we assume the propagation speed of the e-field to ~= c
I guess it is sensitive to that?
I think it might be due to the capacitance and inductance of the cable
When the signal frequency is high enough, any weird things could happen
I guess working with FPGAs and not having done PCB design etc makes me attribute all communication-related wonkyness to timing failures 😝
What kinda frequencies are we talking about?
If you had an oscilloscope, that could determine it.
I do
I have a 4 channel setup
It got a very weird programming wiring
6 wire programming
VCC GND DAT DAT2 CLK VPP
VPP can go up to 20V
Which means I can monitor 3 wires
DAT DAT2 and CLK
What a harrowing experience. Firefox updated, and apparently really didn't like my drivers. It was crashing, but not just crashing. It would go into a loop where it would repeatedly crash, and of course the crash reporter window takes focus, so there's nothing you can do.
Fortunately I'm on Linux, and got to a terminal session to fully remove it temporarily.
Then used another computer to figure out how to update my Nvidia drivers. Now everything works again.
This programming circuit will not work
Due to the use of breadboard and long cables
That's quite the sensitive writer you've got there in that case if it can't tolerate a breadboard and what looks like 6 inches or so of wire.
My question would be, what else is on the programming pins, if anything? I know with ATTiny ISP programming you need to be careful that there's nothing on those pins that could try and respond during programming.
Looks like a bare IC directly connected to the vendor's custom gizmo
Nothing
Just the chip itself
Perfect 5x7 font
Oh and i optimized the morphing clock for matrix portal m4 by changing double buffer to true. Eliminates ghosting
You know, I haven't actually used Python for any of Adafruit's boards. I did use it at work to dig through some thousand or so files to find bitlocker keys (don't worry, I'm supposed to have them) and file them off in a database.
It was...
Surprisingly easy.
Why would you be digitally storing bitlocker recovery keys in plain text? 👀
Because that's how Microsoft does it.
I thought the standard procedure was to print them off and store them somewhere safe, not keep a digital record
You get three options. Save to your Microsoft account (not really an option here), save to a file, and print.
Because this is for work the best option is actually to save them as files to one of our network shares (that only the techs have access to). This way the users don't have to keep track of them.
The only problem is that doing a file search for the identifier is surprisingly slow. So I used to do this through powershell and make a csv file of them all. That was also slow, and made the server guys cringe when I described my process.
So now they go in a proper database, and the script also checks for duplicate entries.
Thinking about it, I guess for a threat model of avoiding confidential data being read off the disk after laptop theft, this is "good enough"; if a threat actor accesses the network, the drives will be unlocked anyway
Pretty much. If they've got access to my database, or the file server, there's a bigger problem.
Of course as both my manager and I agree, I shouldn't need to be doing this anyway, and we should have proper device management that handles it.
Which we will. Eventually. Things are changing around here.
I... think if you are using active directory windows should handle this automatically??
I do not work windows admin though
So, this is based off of weak recollection
And that may be one of the things we do. Our current environment is...
Complicated. Complicated and messy for reasons I cannot go into.
I think I understand ;)
Also, I just accidentally started playing an "AI" music album
I only realized 5 minutes in once it started getting repetitive; I googled the song names, and they turned up no records
That's gonna be more and more of a thing. For better or worse.
I was not paying attention to the lyrics -- And it did not help that they are in a fourth language (Japanese, English being my second language), so I would have to actively expend effort to parse them
3 channels candle flicker controller
3 independent LED outputs for 3 candle flames
Fun fact: One of the main applications of this flicker pattern is graveside memorial candles

Its weird to me, it hates indentations and uses colons instead of curly brace
The double buffer had a note in the code that said to turn it off because it writes and erases simultaneously, but i was like. 'Lets see what happens" 🤣 and no more ghosting
I would say that it is opinionated about indentation more than anything else
(in that, it is actually syntactically significant)
However, if you follow good indentation practices -- which you should have been following anyway -- (not mixing tab/space-based indentations, indenting for every code block, and so on), you should be fine
There are legitimate grievances one can hold about python, but TBH many of them arise by trying to make something out of it that it is not
I just started with a very specific gaming tutorial like 15 years ago and it was c based
C# and with a special framework called XNA with all kinds of pre built classes for game programming
They advertise it on the Xbox marketplace on Xbox 360 and I was like huh. Why don't I try getting into that
I've also done a basic tutorial with Pico-8 which is similar but I didn't go far with making a game
C# is a pretty decent language to start with IMO
Especially if you are targeting the windows ecosystem
huh.. duckduckgo actually has an anti-bot captcha that works without JS on.
anyone ever seen ipod video click wheels from v5 or v6 of the ipod used in arduinos?
Hey, is there a way to connect a mini can network made of Adafruit RP2040 CAN Bus Feather with MCP2515 CAN Controller, and Adafruit Feather M4 CAN Express with ATSAME51, and maybe some arduino to this Industrial Grade 2-Ch CAN to Ethernet Server, 2-Ch CAN + RS485 + Ethernet Port, Supports Can to ETH and RS485, CAN Repeater? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2P9RH4K
Will I be able to connect one of the board to it's can channels? They both have that same interface for can, but I assume I'd have to add a can transceiver to the circuit and connect transceiver to that thing?
transmitter would be sufficient, I guess to connect everything to this interface
I went to the waveshare doc page for that device and was a bit baffled. What is it you're wanting to do? With a wifi- or ethernet-enabled microcontroller with CAN, you could make the leap to the IP network directly from CP code. Would need one of: native Pico W (wifi) or equivalent, or native ESP32-* (wifi), or Ethernet (WIZnet Pico hat or WIZnet Pico devkit, Ethernet FeatherWing, etc.)
(I'm actually constructing a tripler board atm with a Pico 2 W (or Pimoroni Pico Plus 2 W), CAN PiCowbell, and Ethernet hat)
so my main goal is to build an OT network at home, to further integrate it with IT network, and I know it will be hard and not perfect without an actual industrial gear (I was told straight no by someone deeply in OT, but I'm stubborn), but I want it to be as close as a real thing on the lowest budget possible. This device drew my attention because seemingly it's a perfect interface, but on the other hand, I wonder of I should just get some ethernet feather wings instead. I want to add modbus to the equation at some point as well. I'm very new to OT, I started learning/reading like a week ago because I need to learn it asap. I don't really need to program plcs or anything, I'm more hitting it from the networking angle, and there's a bunch of interfaces involved which normally don't talk to each other 😄
at some point I will probably benefit from learning basic plc programming and such, but it's not a priority right now. I focus to learn more about typical OT protocols, such can and modbus and how to make it all fly on ethernet/ip stack and further communicate with a typical tcp/ip network. I shouldn't have a problem with the last part really, because all I need is a switch and router. I know it's a lot at once, so I try to segment my steps a bit and try to figure out how to make it all work.
oh, ok, so I can just stack the ethernet feather on top of my other boards and bridge it all in code. I like it. thank you. It's probably a better solution than buying that box because I will be able to repurpose all the things later. thank you so much for all your help. I know it all is so chaotic for now 😄
your explorations sound quite interesting. you'll figure it all out with experimentation. it is nice to have some fun gizmos in "inventory", never know when you might need something 🙂
Was wondering if anyone knows of a cheapish flexible arm for microscopes that has a 4.3in display for soldering. I don't have a lot of money and I am wanting to try and learn how to soldier and try to fix hardware, more so as a hobby but maybe make a little bit of money here and there
Designed this evb in KiCAD for the 0.9 cents MCU (and it's bigger brothers)
Feedback appriciated!
Also, that fuse will be the most expensive part on this PCB
Made in USA fuse from LittelFuse
Also, I learned today that LittelFuse got quite a cool Chinese name
It got a cool name called Li Te(力特) ||where is the Fuse part?||
Also, the way power was designed was that instead of placing a chip on the ZIF socket
You connect the in circuit emulator to it
And the ICE will supply the power
Well, if you put a lot of power in, something special may happen ;>
Thinking about it, it's still feels screwed up
the most expensive part on this board is a fuse
and one fuse costs the same as 10 MCUs
and there's 1k*14 fuses in each MCU(?)
I guess this is the fuse these MCUs are paired with in production 😝

Are there any fuses not made in the US?
I just prefer LittelFuse. They are reliable
they got massive presence in Huaqiangbei
ads everywhere, every fuse seller sell them
Next time you go to Shenzhen, please photograph a fuse ad for us ^^
will do
All of my non-vacation reasons to go to China put me either near Shanghai or further north 🥲
I’d probably melt in shenzhen
I saw an ad for a "personal TEC fan" that one is supposed to attach to their body. It was one of those moments where I feel certain we are cooked :/
Sous-vide!
Thankfully our oceans haven’t reached that temperature yet…
Actually, the temperature for Sous-vide appears to be 55-60 dec C, and some landmasses have reached at least 50 deg C, so....
I mean in Arizona you can use a parked car to fry eggs and bake cookies.
quits job, opens wet bulb thermometer emporium
So I hear anyways.
Actually, do we know why the perceivable effects appear to have gotten exponentially worse the past few years?
Is it a case of climate systems breakdown having reached the point where their deleterious effect can be perceived by the western world, or have the factors at play gotten worse?
I've been discussing this with some friends, and there were a couple of things we observed in our locale:
- avg daytime temps haven't shifted much
- nightly lows have crept up noticeably, supported both by anecdotal stories and avg low data
- avg dew point has risen at both day and night, by nearly 10 deg F over the last 30 years
- perceived temperature is dramatically worse because it doesn't cool off at night, and humidity doesn't let up
and there are well supported theories that the increase in humidity is tied to the air's greater carrying capacity for moisture, related to increased global temps
so uh... we perceive that things are getting worse
(For the record, my country's met agency publishes monthly mean temperature deviation reports, and we have definitely crossed the 1.5degC mark, at least for the area of Europe they cover)
(Plus everything you have mentioned above)
Looked at the 10 year mean compared to the 30 year mean and annually, we’ve risen by 1°C in that range
It's ok though because crypto currencies and AI data centers are booming!
⚙️ ask an engineer live from brooklyn: deep dives, demos, and your questions answered on-air → https://youtu.be/8NE0LKyTf5Q
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com
LIVE CHAT IS HERE! http://adafru.it/discord
Subscribe to Adafruit on YouTube: http://adafru.it/subscribe
New tutorials on the Adafruit Learning System: http://learn.adafruit.com/
#adafruit #lifeisbutadrea...
So while I wait to see if anyone can help with my project, I'm wondering if any can recommend which would be better, buying a pca9685 through the Adafruit or Highletgo (since that's where I got my esp32, plus there's a servo sheild option that purportedly works with esp32s) Amazon areas. My soldering skills are roughly in the novice area...
we have a lot more documentation, and you can ask for official product support
YouTube streams are still up. Not sure if that is intended.
thanks, I've reported that internally.
Planning to sell them, or making them for practice?
practice
Out of curiosity, is the silkscreen character on the right of the board your original creation
?
Unlicensed image of a character from Genshin
I consider that as a charm of Chinese amateur PCBs
Unlicensed anime characters on board
Ah, so the various PCBs with anime/anime-inspired characters on the silkscreen that can be found on aliexpress et al are an actual offshoot of Chinese amateur PCB culture, not an attempt to market to the otaku fandom?! TIL!
yeah
It's a culture
To the point that JLCPCB started to offer colored silkscreen for the exact purpose
That's cool!
Can anyone help point me to the most recent updates on Adabox? I joined with Adabox021 but haven’t gotten anything since. Seems like future boxes were postponed due to parts availability and then the US tariff situation made things even more complicated. Is there more recent updates than the April 2025 update posted on the Adabox page? I’ve done some searching but can’t seem to find anything. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing out on anything. Thanks!
@zealous oyster thought you might be interested in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubesat_Space_Protocol | https://github.com/libcsp/libcsp ...network all the things (like CAN) 🙂 it needs linux, freeRTOS, or Zephyr though, not sure if it could be pared down for our typical microcontrollers
ohhh, thank you! I'm still waiting for my borads to come. I will read it totally. I feel like that project slowly becomes 'what weird thing I can do' insted of being a reflection of an actual industrial network, but I will learn tones anyways 😄 I already read tons on it.
and it's alive, awesome. many such projects die quickly, unfortunately
yeah, it looks like I won't be able to run it on the adafruit boards, but I may be able to do some test runs with other devices I possess, on linux, ha! Thank you so much for this, this can be a fun side thing.
If I do get the "name brand", what kind of capacitor would work/be needed/recommended to buy and solder on?
I'm still fascinated by neopixels but The idea hasn't struck me yet. Once I think of a good one, it'll just be programming until I get it
I like the ring game project they posted
I got a circuitplayground with one of my orders
Can't help but be reminded of the infinity gauntlet with that board
Or like the five Captain planet rings
I did not see the thread about a capacitor. Have you looked at our various PCA9685 guides:
https://learn.adafruit.com/16-channel-pwm-servo-driver
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-16-channel-pwm-slash-servo-shield
https://learn.adafruit.com/using-servos-with-circuitpython
etc.
there's no clear answer because it depends on the project, how many servos you use, how much current they draw and how stable you power source is.
I'm not sure I understood most of what I saw. Certainly didn't have plans on learning a new coding language (circuitpython)... I'm also not sure about the servo sheild... Most of the time, I see it hand in hand with arduino boards and only one review of one user having sucess connecting the sheild to an esp32.
you have to analyze your circuit and calculate the capacitor you need and if you need it, that's prolly why they didn't put any capacitor on the board because it depends
those boards with capacitor on them may or may not work for your case
I looked up pca9685 & capacitor, and it lead me to an archived adafruit forum thread which someone asked about using a 16V 2000UF Capacitor due to how many servos they were using. Found a 16V 2200UF Capacitor listing on Amazon. Basically, there are 8 micro 9-something servos, a 35kg servo and three 150kg servos (12 total servos) to run an animatronic head/neck.
Also found that I probably don't have enough amps to run them all (I have a 5v 2A power cord... iffy if it was 2 or 3 amps) and that it may be better to find a 5v 10A power source.
Got my 0.9 cents MCU dev board working
!!! WARNING: FLASHING LIGHTS !!!
Vibration activated blinking LED
4 buttons, 1 vibration switch, 3 LEDs, 1 h-bridge, and 6 bit data input
Do people still use the term "cent" (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cent_(currency)) in China? According to Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fen_(currency)), the term "fen" is used.
Please take the flashing lights warning seriously everyone, they really do mean it
Also, wow, talk about quick turnaround -- when did you order the PCBs?
JLCPCB
3 dollars for 5 boards with free shipping and 2 days turnaround
Heh, for that cost, I would try spinning up my own PCB too :P
(In my case, the shipping would probably be more expensive than the boards themselves)
Did you also have them do PCBA, or did you solder everything yourself?
I solder everything by myself
JLC is not the cheapest because they don't offer 94HB boards
94HB boards sometimes go for 14 USD / m²
But you only get 1 side of circuit because it's made with paper and glue
hey.. im making a project using an iphone tapic engine.
is possible to drive this motor using an mosfet?
i know the "DRV2605L" but no luck to find localy. and is not pratical to import things where i live.
Make sure you do plenty of protection
Because the inductor in the haptic engine can easily kill your mosfet if you're not careful
even on 3v?
Yes
Detailed introduction is as follows:
94HB: Plain cardboard, not fireproof (lowest grade material, die punching, no power board)
:D
Have you checked on the bottom of the Adafruit product webpage for a list of distributors that carry the item?
not pratical where i live... 40-60 days shipping and the price is 200%... if this cost 12USD i will pay 24...
and 20USD is very expesive on my currecy
Have you tried AliExpress?
(If you end up going for aliexpress, please do post the item link here before sending any vendor your money so that someone can check it and hopefully help you avoid the more obvious scams)
yes, 200% of the price and VERY LONG SHIPPING.. the tax are paid in the moment that i purchase the item..(aliexpress and others have an agrement with the goverment) but some times even with the automatic tax system the crap organization can put more tax. is not pratical.
😔
I'm curious, which country?
Brazil
90%+ tax on any imported products..
like the US right now but wayyyyyyyyy worse.
An steam deck is like 700USD
iphone 16 pro max 1800USD
and the list goes on and on.. sucks....
humm the resitor value...
the "final" idea is to use an Attiny85, i have the module with USB..
i believe it will run on 3v
I keep wondering if they will ever do another one. I signed up a while ago (over a year now I think) but they have not done one in quite a while. I am starting to think this product is just not viable for them. Big bummer.
I’m having the same thought process. Totally makes sense with the tariffs and electronics price increases recently. Unfortunate if Adafruit can’t continue the program and not lose money on it but understandable. Fingers crossed we’ll see one happen down the road but I’m not holding my breath
duable to use L9110S?
here is the CRAZY idea...
i wana make an apple like trackpad for my laptop..
So... i have presure sensors FSR402.. the tapic engine + driver + microcontroler (attiny85)
I will remove the trackpad single button.. and make the trackpad stationary..(locked)
So.. if i press HARD on the trackpad,, the microcontroller will send a signal to the trackpad button and make the tapic feedback
That's a fantastic idea!
I think I'm familiar enough with code now to try and add the RGB matrix library to FCEUltra
A fork I mean
240 Hertz is more than viewable for the game Boy one. So the performance hit shouldn't be too bad for NES and still get around 200 HZ
All assuming you use four pin addressing panels. Once you go up to the five pin they eat up performance
But 2mm pitch looks nice
Which is why I kind of want to try to build the Pico project with the 64x32 panels and see if I still have those ghosting issues
How can I learn Arduino coding
I just brought a Arduino!
First, get the Arduino IDE
The Arduino IDE will have a ton of samples you can look at and play around with. My personal first one is the blink program.
My boards came! I'm so excited to start my Great CAN Project 😄
If you didn't get the official starter kit, and you don't have a book, you may want to start with this playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLT6rF_I5kknPf2qlVFlvH47qHvqvzkknd
Actually doing the math here and it would double the pixels meaning it Hertz would cut in half. So it might barely be viewable
@quartz falcon if you have question or comment you can say it. No need to ask if anyone is here (it just clutters up the channel). I'm going to delete these messages. Please see #code-of-conduct and #welcome for info about the channel on what is on topic.
ngl i didn't found anything related too it in those channel well my bad i'll go for my problem directly .
i just got my hands on adafruit feather 2040 with usb host a and i started coding it for a controller and a mouse remap but i'm having issues with the polling rate it's not even getting to 200Hz which is too low to function properly if there's anyone out with the board i would be graceful to work together with him
Are you using CircuitPython or Arduino to code it? your best bet is asking in either #help-with-circuitpython or #help-with-arduino, depending on which you are using. And include the code that you're using.
Your new message is fine, asking questions is fine, and discussing projects and electronics or programming is fine. Just no need to ask if people are around, or ask if it's okay to ask questions before doing so and similar.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/6362
could you make TDS meter with this? im not sure if they work the same way, i think TDS measure electro conductivity of the liquid
I built something cool, what is the best way to share it?
Servo 3 position Valve with optical sensor to detect wheel slots Uses Adafruits opitical sensor TCRT1000, TowerPro MG92B servo and prop maker RP2040 https://www.adafruit.com/product/5768
The Adafruit Feather series gives you lots of options for a small, portable, rechargeable microcontroller board. By picking a feather and stacking on a FeatherWing you can create advanced ...
There is a #show-and-tell channel
Where should I host the video to share?
hey, operating voltage is a circuit voltage, the same as i/o v, not the power to power the board, right?
As far as I know, discord allows video upload up to a certain size
Usually operating voltage is the supply voltage to the board (whats needed to operate). That is then stepped down with a power regulator on most boards usually 5vdc or 3.3vdc for most hobby micros. That said context is important, so if you have specifics I would share them.
I clarified sorry^
Thanks! The a wording on specs sheet threw me off a bit. I already dug dipper and confirmed that indeed, it was a circuit voltage 🙂
I was trying to determine if I need logic shifter or not, but happily I don't 😄
Why no USB power?
(Bonus points if it is a USB-B port for historical accuracy and comically gigantic port)
It's for connecting coin cell batteries
Because that's usually where those chips end up
Oh.. So, I guess the coin cell slot is on the bottom?
No, external
ic!
hello everyone, I am new here and I saw that you have a lot of different chats with different topics. I was wondering where I should ask my quesiton regarding the UART interfaces for a QT Py SAMD21?
Hi! It depends - what programming language are you using? There are channels for CircuitPython and Arduino
i am using c++, so it would be the channel called help with arduino, correct?
Yup, start there
thanks 👍
Hi everybody. New here and looking to talk and gain knowldege about sound implementation in physical product design. Great to be here!
Guess who's confused again. So I was going through my servos and noticed that my 150kg servos say "10-12.6v" on them. Yet all the tutorials I've seen mentioned a DC out power source of 5v when connecting to a pca9685 board. Can someone help make sense in that?
Also, I looked up info for the other two sizes of servos (mg90S and 35kg) and they share a similar range to each other (6v and 4.5v-6.8v respectively). How does that equate with the 5v DC out and stuff?
Constantly confused...
On our PCA9685 boards, in general, the 5V screw terminal supply goes directly to the servos. There is a separate connection for the 3.3-5v used to run the PCA9685. The PCA9685 does not control the +5v line in any way: it goes straight to the servos. The PCA9685 only sends separate logic signals to the each servo. The grounds are tied together so there is a reference level for the servo control signals.
This is a nice thing about servos: they have their own power control circuitry. This is unlike motor-drivers like H bridges, which have to handle the high current going to the motors.
But it appears to me that the control voltage for a 12v servo is still 3.3v-5v. See this datasheet, particularly the "Command Signal" voltage: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0570/1766/3541/files/SV12-S_Technical_Specification.pdf?v=1741767936
it wasn't easy for me to find this: there are a number of 12v servo pages, and they don't specify the control voltage. But I guess it's assumed to be 3.3-5v
so for your 150kg servos, you could run a separate 12v supply to those, and not use the 3pin connector wires (they may use a different plug/socket anyway
They all have the three (female) pin & wire set up. Basically, I'll have to get two of the pca9685 boards and yet another power supply?
no, you could use the same board, and not connect the _5V for the higher-voltage servos. Cut the power wire on the 3-pin and connect it to 12v separately. Or run 2 separate jumpers from the 12v servo to the pins on the PCA9685 board, and run a separate wire to a 12v terminal block of some kind.
you DO need a separate power supply
it might be easier to get two PCA9685 boards, but you want to be very careful not to get them mixed up, so you don't accidently supply 12v to your 5v servos
Can you read schematics?
If it's simple enough, yeah.
So look at the schematic here: https://learn.adafruit.com/16-channel-pwm-servo-driver/downloads. You can click on the schematic to get a larger view. Then choose a size on the right hand side. Notice the distinction between "+5V" and "VCC". All the terminals labeled "+5V" are tied together. This is exactly what I looked at to make the statement above.
Are you an actual professor, with professional colleagues or students you could get help from?
No, just a fan of Professor Samuel "Sammy" Oak from the Pokémon series (especially when he was voiced by Stewart Zagnit).
ah, I did not realize about the name
Not sure if this was already posted.
They used an adafruit board for a device in the new 'Naked Gun' movie 😬
See the comment about V+ here, for instance: https://learn.adafruit.com/16-channel-pwm-servo-driver?view=all#power-pins-2980404
If I'm using separate power cords for two separate pca9685 boards (because I only saw about daisy chaining and only one power source), how will both boards be connected to the esp32?
The I2C lines would be connected in parallel. You'd set the I2C addresses to be different on the two boards. The grounds would all be connected together, and the VCC lines would be connected together.
The V+ lines would be connected to different sources, but their grounds would be tied together
So that I understand... would that require splicing/soldering jumper wires (even if there are 3 GND spots on the esp32) especially for the VCC, SCL & SDA? And how would the GND of both power sources' be combined/tied together?
These connectors are pretty nice. You can get similar ones at a hardware store. https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=snap-action
screw terminals or something like that are good if you don't want to solder, and for high-current applications, they may be better than soldering
The above are easier to use than wire nuts or something like this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/677
run nice heavy ground wires. They have to handle as much current as the +5v and +12v lines
but the terminal blocks are good too
you don't need heavy lines for the the I2C lines : they are just signals
Let's say, for my sanity's sake as well as my comprehension skills, I go with something like the 3-to-9 wiring block connector and regular jumper wires for VCC, SDA, & SDL, and the a 5-to-1 connector (since i don't see a 2-to-1 connector on the list... or a 4-to-8 or 12), wouldn't the +/- of the individual adapters of the power sources be just connected to the same +/- ports on the pca9685 boards
connect all the grounds to, say, this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/874, which just connects everything together. You can connect the +5V from one power supply to one PCA board, and the +12V from the other to the other PCA board. Is that what you're asking
a 5-to-1 is just a 6, with one connector on the other side for physical convenience
so, say, a wire doesn't have to be bent in a U to reverse direction
https://www.homedepot.com/b/WAGO/N-5yc1vZtyk another example, but you have to buy a lot at once
there are also push-in ones on that page, if you don't need to take it apart easily
https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=wire push-in connectors
I see these are sometimes called "lever wire connectors" https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=lever wire connectors
<>
they are all designed to take a certain range of wire gauges
which may vary
I was referring to something like this... the +/- of the power source, to the +/- of the board...
Which would be something like this...
for the GND wires that is... or were you suggesting something like this?
The droid is at it again
For some reason the serial is programmed to actually print the wifi credentials so ill just change that to asterisks
This is arduino btw
When will Fruit Jam become available?
I checked it yesterday and it was out of stock
40 USD is an extremely good price
Considering Agon Light costs 50 and X16 costs 300+
Every out-of-stock product on Adafruit's website contains this text:
Please enter your details below and we will send you an email when this item is back in stock! You will only be emailed about this product!
I don't really check my email 
Also check this article for some alternative options (each has some missing features): https://learn.adafruit.com/using-dvi-video-in-circuitpython/adaafruit-hardware
I was suggesting the second, tie all the grounds together. That should be the least noisy.
Agon is cheap and you can get it directly from DigiKey. It's also fully open source. But the graphics and sound sucks.
X16 got fantastic sound and graphics and also extremely good expandability. But it's closed source and also very expensive.
The Fruit Jam is 32-bit rather than 8-bit, so are these even a fair comparison?
Agon is also 32 bits
It's really just an ESP32 RGB222 VGA dev board with a Z80 sidekick
(biased: I am X16 community's moderator)
If it switches to ESP32-P4 it's gonna blow everyone out of the water
Okay... so about the 3-to-9? Would that cover the VCC, SCL, and SDA connections between the esp32 and two pca9685s?
The 3-to-9 is just 3 1-to-3's in a single package, so yes, looks OK. then you still need the 5-way for ground.
THese are pretty useful and you might consider buying an assortment
hey, I need 18650 battery holders, one of these shields with usb ports to use with a project, but everything I find on amazon looks so cheap and so hmm, unsafe, that I don't trust them. I'm sure they all come from the same factory. Is there a legit brand which makes them in high quality?
I've added a 5-to-1 on my amazon list in case I'm able to eventually add a DFPlayer Mini to my animatronic
as well as the 3-to-9
need some fine-tuning... but as an POC... not bad

I do like those circuit boards though
One of the first Vapes I built before they actually got affordable
It looks shady AF but that's how I liked it 🤣 people were like omg that's gonna explode 🤣
And if you inserted the batteries in series instead of parallel, then you're right, it would have exploded
This one looks worse but was actually built better
Only kind of board in these is a single mosfet Just to take the current out of the switch
Back when full box mods for vaping were like $300 and you could build it for like 50
Oh and it also has a voltmeter but all that does is just display the current voltage of the batteries
Nice work! ^.^


