#general-chat
1 messages · Page 98 of 1
There wasnt any irony, English isnt my first language I was trying to be as a gentlest way I know of to point out without asking an LLm to copy-edit me to says that saying the real questions would be more more helpful for you. Im sorry if it sounded offensive
The updated version of that tutorial using an RP2040 Propmaker Feather is a lot simpler AND cheaper.
You'd need to source the speaker elsewhere, but it's about $30-ish all total instead of almost $60.
It was mostly the ;) emoji that did it for me -- No worries, English isn't my first language either
Or switch to one of the other "8 ohm" speakers Adafruit sells that's small enough to fit.
could also use a board to run micro .net and runs nuget packages that roll dice and works on micro .net frameworks and that avoid all the other electronics but imho that isn't real electronics cuz it does what other devices can do and Id rather personally use electronics to do stuff that other hobbies cant
I'm sorry but I can't find the attached details on this page for d20 could you highlight them?
would 🙂 have been better here ? I didnt know how to convey that I had good intentions when I said my message and 😉 seemed to be the right way to says like, eye wink Im on your side...
Also @violet parcel do not ever think of using an LLM to copy-edit you. At least as far as I am concerned, I'd rather read "broken" human-generated English than "perfect" LLM output
I honestly do not know. I am far from an expert on emoji-based communication!
I know but I dont speak english well isn't it better than getting banned because I accidently said something offensive or that I didnt mean ? It it offends an llm safeguards surely it said it wrong...
You're sounding like a ChatGPT bot if you can't find the list of components on that page considering it takes up over 3/4ths of the page length.
First one it's a pack
I do not have the authority to ban you. And, as far as I'm concerned, any server that bans people before cross-checking intent is not worth being in
it's not that
Do not let the LLM salesfolks sell you your own insecurities back to you
Again I don't need this full "Adafruit RP2040 Prop-Maker Feather with I2S Audio Amplifier"
I just was trying to be nicer, but you can think that I am AI. I don't care
@sullen portal not sure what your point is roflmao. I mean copilot can 🤣
how much does it cost? @violet parcel
does what cost ? copilot ? came with windows
I aint paying for AI with cringe ethical takes and restrictions lol designed to protect their makers and convinced that anything it says is the holy truth. We have words for peoples who acts like that irl: arrogant annoying dunning-krueger person
of course not
d20
talking
I mean how much does it cost in total with all details
you could calculate yourself ?? why are you outsourcing that to random peoples on discord ? does this seems like a volunteer org to you ?
that sounded rude when you asks that btw
this is one board. You can't get only part of it. (Ignore the photo, photo shows the board togther with additional components.)
you could click the links and adds up... there is a list of parts in the webpage, what is the problem here exactly ?
Are you not seeing the webpage or something ?
so...
- propmaker feather, $20
- speaker, out of stock on adafruit, but easily available eslewhere, maybe $4
- battery, $7
- switch, $1
total: $32
plus the cost of 3d printing filament and misc items such as small screws and magnets
Id suggest pcb printing the feather to lower the cost even more since the schematic is open-source but so far I have no idea if you are trying to optimize for costs or simplicity or already have parts etc
cuz I still dont know what the X problem is that led to the X=>Y question
that's not realsitic.
pcb manufacturing plus cost of parts will already be close to $20 - shipping from China will take another $20 (ignoring US tariffs set to start on May 2). and this is assuming you can do the assembly yourself - which requires solder paste, reflow oven, stencil and VERY high level of experience with reflow soldering.
If you want to order it assembled, your price will be much higher
but in #hw-design the other day they said it costs like 10$ for a single pcb ?! 😦
bare pcb cost $2.
but then you need to add all components
Also me working with a metal knife on a live wire to change the connector: lol @ me being powered by 7.2V 2A...
at some moment I replaced the connector on a 10-cell NiMH pack capable of 20A; do that, I needed to cut the wires with the flush cutters.
Cutting both wires at once.
That was... memorable
but I wouldn't suggest repeating that at home
yeah the LLMs freakouts and treat this the same as cutting a 80000kv power line .... which is very entertaining to me watching them freak out but 2A and 7.2V isnt dangerous at all wont even get a tingle I mean even a 9V battery at full amps only tingle the tongue...
I dont tend to open my chest cage when I work on electronics lol
and there is a built-in 1m ohm resistance on my body according to my multimeters so yeah...
2A in finger doesnt mean 10mA in the heart the body internal resistance is going to lower that a lot and 7.2V just dont push fast enough... but whatever seems like science comprehension isnt a thing anymore in 2025 ... it's 2A 7.2V so relax... that's like saaying I coul;d die if I brush on my arduino 800mA 5V when it's on... come on...
went fine just a little spark when it cut throught the wires lol it happens (it's NiMH not lipo) but it's ok I learned my electronics from electroboom
Now atleast I know they are charged, wasnt sure they came with charge from the factory 🤣
7.2 v electrically is not dangerous to humans.
but shorting a powerful battery can lead to fire or explosion.
For example, a good 2s LiPo battery pack, even though it is only 7.4 v, can produce tens of amps, so shorting it can be very dangerous.
not really your oevreacting over low voltage/low amp which is misinformation/fake news just like the LLMs and Im sick of it because it's the plague of modern times
there no risks to human at low voltage and low amps
I can manage my own safety dont need condescending advice from peoples whod bully me irl anyway
so keep your own advice for yourself... so dont butt in my own security because Ill assume malicious intentions
I dont trust others with my safety - doing that is a good plan to die early like when they tell you to shelter in place during an incident in school or take the high-traffic stairs with others during fires
Let's all cool the conversation down. If you feel like reacting, think twice. Thanks.
So you were cutting and cauterization in one step. Can't blame you for trying to be efficient.😆
I forget who was helping me with emulator code. I'll try FCEUltra first. Been using that for longer that I can remember and it's also in C++
what are the actual bottlenecks for application development?
When you try to develop too many applications?
Every program attempts to expand until it can read mail. Those programs which cannot so expand are replaced by ones which can.
~ Zawinski's Law of Software Envelopment
I tell ya, I really enjoy being able to repair my own appliances. Just order some parts, they come in and I replace them in under an hour
I had to fix my not too old oven last year. The oven was not heating up. Found one of the main contact pins for the relay driving the heaters was poorly soldered and eventually was no longer making contact. So didn't need to even order parts. I cleaned it up the burnt-ness then properly resoldered the joint.
Also found a bug in the code. 😆
I remember a question in some customer support forum:
"My computer stopped working, I opened the back cover and found this dead spider inside. SHoudl I get a new spider to replace him?"
May or may not fix your spider-related issues
Unless inside ur brain
A couple of months ago I was having a difficult time getting the QT Py CH552 working on my computer. I mentioned that I wanted to make an assembly programming tutorial series for it, if I could get it to work. I recently completed it, and I've published it on Substack as free content. (If you have any difficulties with the link, please let me know. I'm pretty new to Substack, and while I think I've got the settings right, it's possible I've messed something up.)
Anyhow, here is the table of contents with links to all of the individual posts.
https://techniumadeptus.substack.com/p/ch552-assembly-table-of-contents
(You don't have to subscribe to view any of the tutorials or this table of contents.)
hello folks. im wondering if anyone has used this project box before? https://www.adafruit.com/product/903
trying to figure out which batteries i could use in this enclosure
It depends on what other electronics you plan to fit in there.
You can check out some of the projects using it to get a better idea of the size https://learn.adafruit.com/products/903/guides
OMG I didn't know you could get all the guides for a project like that!!!!
Yep, they are linked at the bottom of every product page 🙂
Well, that link has been invisible to me until now...
It happens
I'm guessing I noticed it like 5 years ago and then forgot about it.
Spending this much on one book nearly broke me
I used such boxes before; they are nice.
I even made a small PCB that fits tightly inside, with mounting holes matching the supports in the box
wow, books are so cheap now.
Are you an immortal from before the invention of the printing press? :P
Gutenberg ruined the whole book experience for me. Print shops with all that new-fangled moveable type. Bah! Give me a good old-fashioned scriptorium any day.
The lack of liner notes by random monks really ruins the whole experience, doesn't it? :P
Nothing important gets written on that newfangled "papyrus" stuff anyway. It's so flimsy and fragile, let alone flammable! If you want people to really pay attention to your words, grab a stylus and start warming up your kiln for some clay...
Upgrade to Sumeria Excel Special BC edition now!
To be honest, at this point, I have been seriously considering throwing Windows XP and an era-appropriate version of office on some used thinkpad and using entirely it offline just for writing
No distractions, no "AI", no privacy hazards
Ladyada and PT also discussed your request on Ask an Engineer https://www.youtube.com/live/fVrmZe67Xcs?feature=shared&t=1896
ASK an ENGINEER - featuring TARIFF TALK! 4/9/25Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com-----------------------------------------LIVE CHAT IS ...
Anyone have any experience with DigiKey's PCB service? The prices don't look too bad if you don't mind the "DK Red" limitations (e.g. you can get boards in any color as long as it's red 😄 ).
I haven’t used it but it’s pretty decent, comparable to Oshpark as they use the same PCB manufacturer
Desk of Ladyada - Tariff Talk! ASK AWAY! 📦🌎💸
We're doing the show tonight or Tues, so much is going on. Lots more questions came in too! Post yours before we go live...
This week was not a big week for engineering because we're neck-deep in tariff management! We had a video on Wednesday about the first round of tariffs announced—they have since been ratcheted up to 20% + 125% = 145% minimum on products from China and Hong Kong. "Retaliatory" tariffs on products from other countries have been paused, but there's still a 10% global tariff.
Then on Friday, it looks like some HTS codes (https://www.whitehouse.gov/presidential-actions/2025/04/clarification-of-exceptions-under-executive-order-14257-of-april-2-2025-as-amended/) were "exempted" temporarily (https://www.cbp.gov/). Let's take a look at the CBP (link) and the exempt tariff codes (https://hts.usitc.gov/) and see how they might apply to the kinds of stuff we use to do our electronics engineering.
The Great Search - How to Source Tariffed & Non-Tariffed Items on DigiKey
https://www.digikey.com/short/2nb7nzb3
Since this is the topic of the day, we'll be looking at how to purchase an item from DigiKey with tariffs in mind. DigiKey is a free trade zone, which means that if you're not in the USA, you will not have to pay additional tariffs on goods that are re-exported. However, for USA destinations, the new tariffs can add a significant cost if the component has its last manufacturing step in China.
Let's use the example of a simple I2C-controlled temperature sensor to see how our sourcing decisions may be impacted by tariffs.
MEMORANDUM FOR THE SECRETARY OF STATE THE SECRETARY OF THE TREASURY THE SECRETARY OF COMMERCE THE SECRETARY OF HOMELAND SECURITY THE UNITED STATES TRADE
@viscid folio last I checked like 1 day ago they said they will exempt the electronics component industry from tariff's (your lobby power), just to be sure, you might want to not make any orders and just sell what you have for awhile, I would advise against overpaying for something and the price goes right back down, unless you just LIKE sending the company paycheck to taxes 😦
All I want for Christmas is a Circuitpython API library for polar coordinates for the Adafruit 1.28" 240x240 Round TFT LCD Display
It's a single sin/cos pair to calculate though? Like what are you doing with/in polar coordinates instead of x/y?
I could see how it would be beneficial if you were making dial faces. But probably just a matter of doing the calculations yourself and translating to Cartesian coordinates
That was kinda my thought, like if it's only a few fixed angles you could store them in a list you calculate at startup, etc. And worst case a pre-calculated table of 1024 entries would be more precision than the perimeter of the display since that's only ~750 pixels circumference on the 240x240.
there's also tons of fast approximations out there
Does anyone have advice for specing awg for lots of neopixels?
Its hard to weed through all the information each of it giving slightly different figures
I find that designing for worst case scenarios and full brightness always gives me these crazy high amps
I wouldn’t power more than like 2m of strips with one power supply, max brightness of the densest strips will draw nearly 4A at 5V. So 20W. (75 LEDs, 55mA a piece).
So like 40W minimum for 2m of strips
That’s quite a bit of power
Most custom controllers don’t exceed more than 50-60% brightness but it’s better to plan around max brightness due to surge current when you power on the strip
agreed!
I guess Im just struggling with all the different conflicting sources on specing awg because they all seem to be so loose!
You're gonna also want to have multiple separate power injections for that much.
A few capacitors can reduce the inrush from the power supply, and wires don’t always need to be specified for a short spike of current.
And there's no real conflicting sources as long as you actually find technical specs and not random 'LLM hallucation websites' made purely for SEO.
Like there's no real changes over the months/years for https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html checking with archive.org at https://web.archive.org/web/changes/https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html
Most current ratings have to do with heat generation in wires so you’re usually focused on continuous current limits.
A lot of sites don't break it out into the separate solid-core versus various levels of stranded, that's probably the best chart I know of.
so peep this
Plus, there are deratings for how many wires are bundled together, how high the ambient temperature can get, etc.
Yeah, but the traces on the LED strand likely can't support 8 amps so you're gonna have multiple injection points, so say you inject power at 4 points? That's 4 * 2 amps, not 8 amps.
then mcmaster says 14 can do 33 amps
But yes, 14 awg is a SUPER conservitive "lots of safety margin" option. Even super-flexible fine-stranded wire would support the peak likely amp draw.
this is for a short run of a couple feet to a set of 4 strips each requiring 1.9 amps
How many pixels are you running, and how bright do you need? 8A sounds like a very worst case, but I don’t think I ever asked how you got that number.
Sorry, I started the conversation in regards to neopixels and then moved to dicuss some plane white 12v leds
That’s fine, that changes surprisingly little relative to this conversation haha
maybe my question should be how do I carry 8 amps
At 300VAC, the current ratings on the website I linked are at 1000V so it ends up a bit lower..
I use 18AWG for my boards that have 50 RGB LEDs on them, 100uF cap does wonders
If you have to carry a lot of power across a significant distance, sometimes it’s better to run the power through the cables at a higher voltage, then use a switching converter to step the voltage down with high efficiency.
thats valuabel advice thank you
But also are you powering the full 8 amps of neopixels in one long strip, or can you break the power up to inject it at like... both ends + the middle at least?
Even just 'both ends' would be 4 amps on each power feed instead of 8 amps.
Usually the pigtails off brick supplies with barrel adapters are long enough and rated for the load on them
Also if you’re running 4 separate strips at 2A each, you can run separate wires for each, rated for a little over 2A; instead of a single wire for a full 8A.
Which is what I'd recommend too.
and 2 is more like 20 awg
which is way more normal
cool
Its an assmebly thing, I prefer having fewer connecion points to the power suply
because someone else is making the final assembly
It seems like the answer to my question is, carry less amps
and stop trying to figure out optimal awg
Yeah, for larger assemblies I’d recommend a bus bar for power distribution, but that’s basically the gist of it.
love a bus bar
The more current you try to run through a single wire, the higher your losses. If you can afford the extra runs, it’s often for the best.
I did this build of a gaint jbl speaker with 8 strips of 60 neopixels
If you’re bundling up the wires together, there’s some derating for that too so I’d probably say 4 runs of 18AWG is probably a safe bet?
Heard
thank you hem
managing power and wires is a whole journey
I have 8 of these 4 strip configurations
What's the difference between https://www.adafruit.com/product/5615 and a bus bar?
Bus bar typically has more metal so it’s usually rated for significantly higher currents.
so Im powering them in sets of two with 200w power supplies
At that point likely want a tiny bus-bar assembly at the power supply end that breaks all the individual power leads to run the many smaller wires up to the assemblies.
so I guess, between the bus bar and the power supply. thats a wire that will carry 8 amps
but the distance is so short I should be able to get away with like 16?
That might depend on the power supply, whats the raw connection to the power supply? Like are we talking a barrel jack or does it have terminals or a hard-wired pigtail?
If you actually expect an output of 8A, I’d recommend 12 or 14 at least. If your 8A has a significant safety margin, I don’t think 16 will be a major issue.
I expect 8
theyre white leds at 12v
I was thinking 12 but everyone looked at me like I was crazy
sorry for the confusion, I should have not confused the conersation with theroretical neopixel question
Again, it’s all technically thermal, so if it’s not in open air I’d derate for that.
open air chasis wiring
And don’t worry, it’s general chat, usually is common for multiple discussions to happen in parallel.
14awg solid core would be my suggestion for the short power supply <-> bus bar run, since flexibility isn't really an issue there either as it'd be a fixed install point.
let me draw a little diagram
Oh, if you can use solid core 16 is more than fine. Problem is you need a better set of tools to get a good crimp on a solid wire.
For most wiring I generally assume 7-24 core unless told otherwise haha
I am the 'absurdly cautious' side of electrical wiring rating I admit. XD
Im there with you wolfy
this thing Im thinking about now will be installed very publicly and Im on the more inexperienced side of things so my caution is running crazy and the awg's I want are getting low!
Truthfully, I dont think I can use a bus because I need it all to snap together so someone with no experience can assemble it
Oh the thought was the power supply + bus bar would basically be a "fixed unit" with only the feads from there off to the individual runs would be separate. All in one enclosure very short runs, etc.
There's lots of connectors that can handle 2A@12V for example so it could be literally plug-and-play past the bus bar.
this is ideal from an assembly view because it fits with the logic of how the piece is constructed and will be assembled
I understand it now to be unideal from the perspective of power distrobution
I will continue to churn and consider all the amazing advice I have recieved here tonight
but theroretically, if I was going to have the connection between the plug and and the power suply carry 8 amps
I would want to go with something like 14 gauge at 7 to 24 cores?
Bigger is better, up to what’s convenient for you. But yes, probably 14 minimum.
I can get 14 bought if I can justify it, but its tough when the mcmastercar page says 14 can carry 33A
I work in scenic where people are pretty fast and loose with this stuff
a lot of it is, well, we got away with 18 in the past for leds so...
and then its like according to mcmaster 22 can carry 10 A
All of these ampacities are going to be different for different codes. I’m used to a very conservative one, so my advice certainly errs on caution.
respect to that hem
It’s also worth noting this data sheet snippet is an AC rating, so it’s not going to be directly relevant in a DC application.
Interesting!!!
Though if my memory serves me right, they should be comparable if no frequency is mentioned…?
Ok now I’m about to open a couple cans of worms myself, aren’t I…
according to my reading unless skin effec comes into play
can of worms is the correct phrase.... lost hours on this lol
Im just like why is mcmastercars rating so different from the engineering toolbox
I think the answer lies in coninuous amp vs peak amp
That would make a lot of sense.
curious deffeniton
I mean... 14/2 solid core wire is only about $2USD/foot at home improvement stores, it's not a hard to get think in small sizes at least.
ampacity for building wiring is an allowable maximum temperature for fire safety reasons
you might want heavier wiring than required by building codes, if you’re concerned about voltage drop
Or there's like 25-foot 14/2 low-voltage direct-burial rated stuff for only $16 or so when I check.
Which is more likely what your project would want is that sort of wire TBH.
I'd like to buy a vowel...
I wonder if Scrabble tile values could be useful for stocking requirements. eg. stocking 100/Scrabble Value for each.
1 point - A, E, I, O, U, L, N, S, T, R.
2 points - D, G.
3 points - B, C, M, P.
4 points - F, H, V, W, Y.
5 points - K.
8 points - J, X.
10 points - Q, Z.
Current inventory lines up pretty close
I'm shopping for a new programming font. I've been using Adobe Source Code Pro, but thinking that there might be something better out there. I do mostly for C/C++ coding with a dash of Python. Any recommendations?
Cascadia Code has been my recent addiction since it uses advanced font rendering to do some nice merging/combining effects for common code formatting constructs in python/C while staying a monospace font globally.
I've used Menlo and Lucida, these days I've been using Source Code Pro
This has actually burned me in the past, so I now avoid these kinds of fonts
(I'm talking about interpreting -> as an actual arrow glyph etc)
I see the possible problem with Cascadia combining glyphs, but on first glance it's a bit more readable, to my eyes anyway. Thanks all for the recommendations!
"Cascadia Mono" is identical just without the combining glyphs enabled.
yesterday i flopped an electronics test
half of the problems were about something i still truggle with to this day
the resistor color codes 💔
I hate 'rote memorization' based tests, when we've literally spent the last 20 years being able to carry entire libraries in our pocket.
to be fair the test had some formulas (which were handy) and part of a resistor color table so it was mostly my fault forgetting how the value of the resistors were calculated
The Great Search - How to Source Tariffed & Non-Tariffed Items on DigiKey 📦🌎💸
https://youtu.be/I-eD6FSM0bU
Since this is the topic of the day, we'll be looking at how to purchase an item from DigiKey with tariffs in mind. DigiKey is a free trade zone, which means that if you're not in the USA, you will not have to pay additional tariffs on goods that are re-exported. However, for USA destinations, the new tariffs can add a significant cost if the com...
These freaking tariffs ruined my month
Yeah but to WolfWings point, color codes are great if you are testing to be a technician. For a developer, engineer, etc. the test should be about calculating the correct values of resistors needed. And these days, through hole resistors are a throwback especially with the easy to use tool and the cheap online board houses that can give you 5 PCBs for $5 coupled with a hotplate and some low heat solder paste, ANYONE can get a simple board up and running with SMT parts. There are no color codes on surface mount resistors.
I've never soldered a surface mount anything in my life D:
My equipment is a blunt tip non-adjustable soldering iron with the roll of flux-core solder that it came with
I need to get a better soldering iron, preferably one with a point, and some flux paste. Maybe a hot plate one day, though all my components are through hole so that's not urgent
Oh and I have a helping hands station
I started SMD by getting a cheap hot air rework station and a syringe of low temp solder paste
The description of https://www.adafruit.com/product/136 says it includes an Adafruit Parts Pal and a half-size solderless breadboard. Does that mean it includes two breadboards?
The Parts Pal seems to be a new addition "As of April 14, 2025", maybe because the old soldering vice was more expensive ... so it looks like yea, there are 2 breadboards now.
might take a crack at building a mini CPU
you guys think i could use shift registers as CPU registers?
Have you looked at this YouTube series? https://eater.net/8bit
yeah i've been watching his videos to build a CPU in a logic sim
not actually looked at the parts list
He sells kits to make your own, on his website.
yeah ik, i was just gonna buy the pieces individually because i have a bunch of random components everywhere that i was gonna use
as messy as this is, it works pretty well so i mean i could build something similar
on a board
I noticed that they only included one in the main picture. After reporting a website error via their contact us page, they updated the wording.
Hello!
I am extremely noob on LED and stuff, so Im sorry in advance.
I came here because I am in despair and google doesn't have a solution for this. I am currently doing a cosplay and the LEDs will be on my wig.
I bought these - https://www.amazon.es/dp/B0D91TQ3D7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Then, I also bought these - https://www.amazon.es/dp/B0C714G846?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 to make them light on during a convention.
All they do is show white. I cant control them. They dont turn on and off. They are simply... White.
Someone recommended me this discord server; can anyone explain/help me, please? I spent too much on materials. I can always ask for a refund on everything, but I would rather fix this.
I dont know any programing, but I am willing to learn. I only have one month to finish this.
MeRGBW-Home - Tira de luces LED de neón, 3 m/9,9 pies, control por aplicación, sincronización de música, diseño flexible para dormitorio, sala de estar, juegos, cocina, interior y decoración de fiestas
This is how they are - https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fhelp-me-fix-my-led-doing-it-for-a-cosplay-1st-one-worked-v0-5z6chof998ve1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D1500%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dd8b7f7b5fb101d74faadd3eaba8a27fa1bfbc844 instead of the RGB. They worked before.
With the products in the Adafruit guide I linked on Reddit (https://learn.adafruit.com/master-sword-rp2040), you cannot connect it to your smartphone to control it directly. You can attach a button and code it in a way that'll switch between different lighting patterns. I believe Adafruit makes other products that might be able to be controlled via your smartphone.
Hello again ahah, thank you. I am trying to find a place that sells them here in Europe
But before that, I wanna know if I can at least save this leds for my room
I spend 40 euros on them, kinda useless if they are trash now
Its more of a "how can i fix them" issue now
According to what I see, I put a 1,5V battery and they require 5V
Is there anyway to fix them?
Adafruit has retailers in Europe: https://www.adafruit.com/distributors#Europe
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : Hacker Spaces/Distributors Map - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireless Young Engineers 3D printing NeoPixels Kits & Projects Robotics & CNC Access...
Don't buy this sort of stuff on amazon, they're all drop shipping stuff anyway, get em out from AliExpress, way cheaper and you have a 3 month return time
You fed 12V into a 5V device, so very likely it damaged the controller with the buttons on it, but the LEDs likely have a separate voltage regulator so the LEDs didn't get damaged which is why they can still light up. But no longer get any signals to change colors now.
I'm using simple terms in case you're using a google translate or similar, these aren't technically precise terms.
Oh! So basically the small "computer" died. Gotcha, thank you! Is there anyway I can fix it or should I ask for a refund?
They said I can ask for a refund, amazon will side with me somehow
According to my math, I fed 1,5v no? Because I use 8 batteries in this to try light them up
8 * 1.5V
Oooh, thank you!
It's why it advertises it as a 12V adapter.
Gotcha. So, in theory, I need a 5v with batteries to light this up?
And it will work fine?
Yeah a normal USB battery bank (like for recharging a phone from) is the safest bet since it expects USB already.
Got it. The problem with the battery bank is that it didnt lst longer, but might as wel refund this and with the money buy 2 or 3 for the con
Thank you so much!
But it won't fix the broken controller, so you won't be able to control the colors still most likely. That's not really fixable, so you'd need to return it most likely.
Thats what I will do. Just contacted amazon and will buy the better LED that the other person said
Unfortunately wil have to buy them again. Oh well
Good luck with your costume!
Thanks :) hope it goes well <3
… will buy the better LED that the other person said
As you likely don't need the high density of LEDs specific to the guide I previously linked, I'd recommend looking at the entirety of Adafruit's NeoPixel LED lineup. A good resource is this: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide
does anyone know how to include tft_espi on platformio without it having weird little include errors
like what does it do
and a 3 month delivery time 
With choice items somehow stuff gets delivered in 7-14 or 7-10 days
Yeah once it was something like 2-3 months, you didn't pay vat/taxes tho
The only thing is that they're a gray markets, and policies as for ethics are likely to be sus
But Murica isn't that much better either
The products found on Amazon and aliexpress are largely the same, the only difference is who’s responsible for distribution. I don’t think it’s worth fighting for one over the other.
yeah i'm tryna find all the things i need rn via choice xD
annoyingly aliexpress doesn't even have any CY54FCT574T chips
and i need 10 of them haha
well 10 of them or something similar
but i cannot find any 8 bit d-type registers on there, there are 4 bit dtype registers but they aren't shipped by choice and cost like £8 to have them shipped when they're £3 for 5 chips haha
the pain
There are also sellers who have similar shipping time although they're not "choice", search is also a pain
For leds it's fine
Anything specific, active compenents (all stm are fake), or reliability it may not be the best choice
That’s an oddly specific chip to be on the hunt for on aliexpress.
yes, i found all the other chips i need perfectly fine, just not that one chip and its annoying
haha
I could see a 74 clone being available on Ali but that’s a TI military grade register IC.
it doesn't need to be that exact chip, that's just the only one i could find. Any 8 bit 3 state register
i just can't find it
or anything like that
if i hated myself and wanted my processor to run like crap i'd use shift registers
but i don't
From a quick g query the sn74hc595n seems to be a 8bit 3 state register, but idk
that's a shift register
i need it to be parallel in / out
it's impossible to find haha
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/scls148h/scls148h.pdf work for you? Seems to be available on AliExpress.
you my friend are a life saver
i've been searching for atleast an hour
I never attempted to do anything alike, and I'm quite ignorant, but wouldn't a fpga work better for the project?
yes but that's also boring asf

Oof, glad I could help. An hour looking for ICs on AliExpress sounds miserable.
it is, most of the time i searched up registers it started showing me screw driver bits and sockets 
I'm a big fan of looking up chips on Digikey or Octopart to see what fits the bill first. Parametric search is a lifesaver.
Most, if not all, 54 and 74-series chips should be pretty common, especially if you're okay with clones.
I saw the 54xx574 and that narrowed the search pretty quickly haha
wait actually, im not sure if this will work
seems like this is working like an octal bus transceiver with extra steps
not like a register
lmme check
oops, i sent the wrong chip 
nuts, back to searching for me 
Wait, why doesn't this chip work? You're looking for a working register?
well i need this one for something else, but yes i do need an 8 bit register
i think they're d-type registers
Yes, and this does that, no?
no because it'll replace it's value per clock cycle
it doesn't have a pin for storing
You don't have to connect CLK to your system clock. You can use a digital output instead and it'll hold its value until a rising edge appears on the CLK pin.
Does that complicate the design? What type of flip flop would you prefer?
i think it would complicate it, i guess i just need a standard 3 state 8 bit register with a store, clock and enable pin
it doesn't even need to be 3 state, i'll just get some octal bus transceivers
https://eater.net/datasheets/74ls173.pdf i found a 4 bit version of what i need
i'll have a 16 bit program counter and stack pointer so i don't really want to be using 4 bit registers
Ahhhhh, I'm starting to see what you're doing.
if its "losing your mind" that you're thinking of then you got it spot on haha
Those 74-series chips generally have a standard 20-pin package so if you need something with the extra control pins you'll usually use two 4-bit registers over one 8-bit register.
what if i need a 16 bit register
do i just use 4
i wanted to avoid that because i need atleast 2, 16 bit registers
Yep.
Are you constrained to those 20-pin chip packages?
Truthfully, I don't think I've explored outside of the 74-series chips for low-level logic chips, but I can't say they don't exist.
it's all going on breadboards so as long as it'll fit in a breadboard i can use it
Hmmm. Probably best to stick to multiple chips then.
I see some very obscure 24-PDIP packages but you probably won't see them on AliExpress.
haha fair, now i just need to find some RAM chips
i wonder if there are any 256 word by 4 bit array ram chips
just had a look on there and i found a couple
thank you
If you're ordering enough parts simultaneously that happen to be available on DigiKey, the shipping cost becomes negligible/free for most destination countries.
ik but im also ordering a bunch of other stuff from aliexpress that's not on digikey otherwise i would
I mean, DigiKey sell dry erase boards of all things (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/DEF50X4/25978177). Are you sure they don't carry the items you're looking for?
most of the things i need from there are bulk buy only
now i can't find a good SRAM chip on aliexpress 
haha
fml
imma just use 12 bit addressing, 12 bit memory addressing is more than enough for an 8 bit CPU
and i found a 8192 x 8 mem chip
I believe you could get more than you need, and just not use the extra capacity.
yeah, i can get 2 x 12 bit memory chips and if i decide to i can just up my ram to 24 bit addressing or just 16 and only use x bytes or whatever
realistically though 8192 bytes of ram is more than enough for this processor but if i need to i can just up it to 16k
i didn't think that through, dw ik my thing is a stupid solution and will not work 
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Which package do you need? Your search term is way too specific if you simply need any octal tri state flip flops. For example, Digikey has 243 DIP packaged
SN74ACT574N waiting for you right now.
already got what i need now, thank you anyways
I just learned why you're supposed to use desoldering equipment and not just try to like heat it up and rip the iron out real quick 🤣
Just a quick psa, i just got the money back <3 Now onto the project again ((i am scared of doing something again))
Thank you so much for all your help <3
I lost the little ring for pwming the Adafruit Matrix hat
Howdy, this isn't "off subject" (sort of), but I decided to convert my Itsy Bitsy ESP32 to Micropython, and learn Thonny and MP, really as a newbie. Been doing CircuitPython for 2 years or so. I wanted to quit having to use https://code.circuitpython.org/ for programming, which on my computer at least is pretty unreliable, but I could get things working fine eventually.
Anyway, I downloaded this generic ESP32 Micropython:
https://micropython.org/download/ESP32_GENERIC/
and used Adafruit ESPTool to program it. Tried for 2 days to no avail, and finally (Did I say I'm stupid?), saw that you have to set the starting address as 0x1000, NOT 0x0. Man am I dumb. I'm now a happy first time user of Thonny (which I really like) with the no-native-USB ESP32. 😀
This lines up perfectly but the M3 screws I have don't fit inside that hole. I got to go find M2 screws and nuts
Otherwise it flops around when the cord takes tension
I'm impressed with how perfectly that lines up with a 20/20 though
I think I'm going to go with wood possibly next time cuz it's a lot cheaper than these extrusion pieces. You get 10 three footers for like 75 bucks
But I already made all my projects. So maybe I'll just save some money
I thought Thonny also works with CircuitPython?
another choice is https://viper-ide.org
Hi, when the Quad Rotary Encoder Breakout (https://www.adafruit.com/product/5752) was announced (https://youtu.be/arpl-qVEmCw?t=476) there was a mention that enconders with translucent shafts would be "hopefully" available.
I've spent some time procuring these and can only find either encoders with embedded LEDs or translucent but without button.
Are there any news on this front ? Would love to hear (and would buy a bunch 🙂 )
Rotary encoders are soooo much fun! Twist em this way, then twist them that way. Unlike potentiometers, they go all the way around and often have little detents for tactile feedback. But, if ...
Ultra Tiny USB Camera with GC0307 Sensor (0:17)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5733?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=videodescrip&utm_campaign=newproducts
Right Angle Ratchet Screwdriver and 33 Piece Tool Bit Set (1:48)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5730?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=videodescrip&utm_campaign=newproducts
Thin Right Angle Rat...
Yep it sure does - I just wanted to work with Micropython for a new experience ha ha
Thanks Dan, having a look-see
lol... accidentally send a message when cleaning my keyboard
i'm getting to carried away with this, whilst i wait for my parts to come i've been designing my processor in a logic sim and i've already gotten 5 instructions working, Load Accumulator, Load B, Add, Subtract and Multiply
in fairness, all this is from logic gates exclusively
which fortunately when i actually build the rest of my processor, i do not have to do haha
this loads 8, adds 2 to it 5 times, subtracts 4 and then multiplies it by 4
quick simulation 
Ah yes, roll your own CPU like it's 1950
hits you with a verilog book
Jokes aside, I think you've fought with discrete gates enough since you've reached this point. I think it's past time you learn a HDL and embrace EDA :P
Are DigiKey branded soldering irons any good? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/digikey/DKS-SLDR2-US/20370541
haha yeah
I was gonna use discrete chips and see how far I can get with them although I might use an FPGA or something to build the ALU
Could maybe fit the entire thing in a https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pga2350, making use of the PIO subsystem.
does the pio have a PLA or something inside it?
Not really. I was thinking you could likely run an emulator on the cores, with the PIO subsystem bit-banging any precisely timed peripherals.
Eh, that's apples to oranges (software to gateware) though ;)
Also, just to confirm, you mean https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_logic_array and not the 3D printer filament material, correct?
Indeed I do.
Though in this case not to this specific (antiquated) technology, but just as a catch-all term for "some sort of programmable logic" (Please note that this is not a formal use of the term. Please do not use it in a job interview or exam) ^^
TIL gateware is a word: https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/gateware
I had a USB borescope sitting around collecting dust — I think I originally bought it to check for leaking pipes in my walls — so I built a little arm to hold it above a work surface. Here I've got it mounted on a side table and feeding my laptop to try it out and see what kind of magnification I can get. Seems to work pretty well. Looks to be about 10x.
I'll be moving it to my workbench and using a Linux machine to help with soldering work. My eyes are getting too old for fiddly little components. 😄
Nice!
yeah ik i just wanted to build it on a board itself for the flex of having done that, i just can't be bothered to implement multiplication using AND gates 
an adder is simple but for multiplication it's x * y where x and y are the bit width of the operands so 2 x 8 bit numbers would be 8*8 AND gates and 8 x 8 bit adders, there's probably a more efficient way of doing it but that's the way i came up with
What game?
If it is fulfilling to you, do it. But also, make sure you have the timing of your circuit worked out by hand :)
it's called digital logic sim, it's open source and my copy is modded so i can have 16 bit
yeah ik, realistically i could operate most of it at hundreds of megahertz because all the other components have like 120 ns access times / whatever, i think the highest was 140ns so i think the biggest bottleneck will be whatever i whip up on an FPGA haha
FWIW, there is also "logisim evolution", which is less fancy, but does not have such limitations and also lets you export to verilog
oh, good to know tysm
ty
np! ^^
Out of curiosity, what connector is being used here: https://www.adafruit.com/product/6050
I found this one which is pretty close: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/1054550101/8575767
Order today, ships today. 1054550101 – USB-C (USB TYPE-C) USB 3.2 Gen 2 (USB 3.1 Gen 2, Superspeed + (USB 3.1)) Receptacle Connector 24 Position Board Edge, Cutout; Surface Mount; Through Hole, Right Angle from Molex. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
The schematic might contain that info: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Sunken-USB-Type-C-Breakout-PCB
Ah thank you! Where did you find that repo? I didn't find it under "Technical Details"
I just searched for the product on their GitHub.
Dope. I'll be sure to do that moving forward. Thank you kind stranger!
Moving to a new cubicle at work next week so have been cleaning out years of accumulation. Ran across some rather old semiconductor Master Selection guides for Motorola (1981 & 1984), National Semiconductor (1979 pocket edition & 1990), and Texas Instruments (1983). They used to be handy when I was at companies that still had old enough products that I needed to figure out what a certain IC was, but now all these older products are long gone for work use. Perhaps they are useful to old tinkers, electronic swap meets, etc.? Should I just throw them out?
Maybe upload them to the Internet Archive?
Ummmm, scanning hundreds and hundreds of pages in a book? No thanks.
It looks like the Internet Archive can do that for you: https://archive.org/scanning
Oh wait, they already have them: https://archive.org/search?query=master+selection+guide
Just checked and found the 1983 TI one there already, so I can chuck that one. Also several Motorola ones which probably covers what mine have.
And an older N.S. one. So I guess they can be tossed.
On a related note, my company throws out soooooooooooo much functional stuff it makes me cry. I gave up trying to save it and just watch the stuff pile up in the electronics recycling bin. Since our whole section of the building is moving EVERYONE is clearing out their offices. Dell Docks (the USB-C ones with USB A 3.0, USB-C, HDMI, Ethernet, etc. ports), Microsoft Surface power supplies, pencils, and docks. HDMI cables, barcode scanners, CD drives, $100 of stuff (switches, connectors, contacts, etc.) ordered from Digikey and never used. Anything compents I might be able to grab for a project I do, but some things like docks and HDMI cables and the like, there is only so many you can have (and not have a use for) before you give up.
Sounds like they would be perfect for some donations to some local schools 😉 the USB-C docks are pretty universal and can be used with a lot of Android phones/tablets too. (Samsung Dex works pretty well with a monitor via HDMI on the docking stations)
Honestly cables are 'yeet and forget' but the pencils are the hidden gold in that, the Surface pencils work on almost any touch-screen Windows 10 or 11 laptop.
Including other vendors, like I'm using a Surface pencil on my Acer.
USB-C docks are pretty universal
As long as they aren't Dell.
Really? Haven't had any issues using them with Android devices, haven't tried much laptop wise to be fair
And by android I should specify Samsung just in case. Lol
Maybe it's just the older ones
Ugh USB-C docks should just be USB-C docks dag nabbit! I know they had the docks with the dedicated connector on the bottom of the laptop.. definitely could see an issue with those.
I got some used and they didn't work. After looking them up, I discovered that the docks themselves not only required a firmware update to function properly, the laptops they were intended for also needed BIOS support. Ended up getting rid of them because there was no way I was going to get my Thinkpad to run one.
Live H-bridge update. Making B and C (top right and bottom left) go to 5V outputs 12V as expected, but A and D has a brief spike of like 1V that goes to like 0.2V. Any idea what the cause could be?
Based off this diagram except my PNPs on top are S9013 (I think that's right) and the bottom 2 are S8050s, with the darlington ones on the very sides being 2N2222
That's obnoxious as all get out. Good to know!
I also have 50k pulling resistors between the base and emitter of Q1-Q4
I think it may have been one of their earliest USB-C models, and they released it before it was actually ready.
I'm so confused. I just rebuilt it from scratch and the same deal: B and C work fine, A and D give like 0.6V
First-gen USB-C docks basically weren't because they came out before the functionality needed for docks was really standardized.
Comically the Steam Deck forced sooo much improvements on USB-C docks because THEIR dock out-performed many laptop docks on the market that cost several times as much so other companies stepped up their game.
LMAO
$80 for a USB-C dock with ethernet, one HDMI, and one DisplayPort, and some USB ports as well, and it JUST WORKED and handled up to 65W of pass through charging is a heckuva nice 'you must be this good to cost more' point.
That's actually really impressive.
That's insanely impressive
A device I'm making will use USB-c 2.0 for charging and data, but given it's a smartwatch idk the need for more complex stuff
How does USB c KNOW it's plugged into a HDMI port
There's a lot of device negotiation that happens under the hood when things are first plugged in.
Gross
I don't see how it's gross. It's actually a pretty elegant design.
I never seen a dock that just works, they all give problems, with no real fix
I still don't see the appeal of them, you get less and less ports on your pc, to then waste 200+€ on a port expander?
You're really going to tell me that pluggin 2/3 cables extra is so difficult
I didn't think that they were popular untill I got an office work, which is also consulting.
Lots of hardware is pretty much over expensive new ewaste in my opinion
Sincerely, that is why the steam deck dock was so groundbreaking. Because it really did just work for all of its ports on just about any device you plugged it into.
And the main purpose of a dock is so that you can have additional monitors plugged into a laptop while only having to attach a single cable when you get to and from the office. And then you can also have a work keyboard and so forth, so you can have a very desktop-like experience win at the office but still take your computer home with you easily.
just ordered a 6502 
6502 or 65C02?
So, you bought a retro part...
Well, you could get the binary-compatible and faster 65C02, in all its CMOS-y goodness
tbf i only bought it as a replacement for the one in my NES
but i might have a lil fun with it first
nah it's from MOS
I think it's not pin-compatible
With what was used in the NES
Because nintendo went with a clone
yeah but it was so similar they got sued for it
im sure i saw the pinout somewhere
they're the same
unless i looked at the same picture twice
either way, i have a 6502, imma have to check this now haha
if it's the wrong chip i'll still keep it because who cares, it's cool and old
Also the 6502 lacks the audio processing unit the 2a03 has
So, it may crash, or you may not have sound?
The Ricoh 2A03 (and the 2A07) is the CPU in the well-known Nintendo Entertainment System. Apparently, the die is very similar indeed, as the slides in this video suggest https://www.youtube.com/wat...
im sure i have a busted com128 somewhere
if its the processor that's busted then woo hooo a replacement

if not then oopsie 
time to order the ricoh also
i need to stop buying electronics haha
and if i happen to not need the 6502 i'll just turn it into a video card for my CPU
make it do VGA and stuff haha
idk how well that would work but it would sure be fun
the 6502 does not have anything we would call "GPIO"
All it has is address and data lines to access the memory bus
...and interrupt lines
Remember that GPIO stands for General Programable Input Output. A 6502 does not have this, nor most old 8/16 bit processors.
You needed an external chip for that! :D
(For what it's worth, it also does not have any internal ROM or RAM; those were external chips too)
Yeah just look at the circuitry that made up a Apple 2+ computer, it was amazing what Wozniak did to make the apple work.
Hi all! My Braincraft HAT didn't come with headers and I'm working on this project https://learn.adafruit.com/youtube-radio/set-up-raspberry-pi do you know what size header I need to get it to fit in the case properly? Thanks!
Happy Easter everyone! Guys what do you use to tag custom things? I'm looking for an alternative to those brother thermal printers https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513d6eGrixL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
I dont want to hand write stuff, it looks so unprofessional
I mean... is it a Brother device that prints in black-and-white only in just about any form factor on the planet? It's hard to beat generally for a reason, it's trustworthy and gets the job done fairly cheaply.
You could always go old-school with one of those embossed label-makers with the analog character wheel. https://www.dymo.com/label-makers-printers/embossing-label-makers/dymo-organizer-xpress-embossing-label-maker/SAP_12965.html
I do use a brother lable maker like the one you tagged. It is cheap and nice.
Where are you guys buying parts with all the tariff stuff going on?
Got it set up on my workbench using an old laptop running Linux and an even older monitor for the display.
Blessed Resurrection Sunday everyone!!! ✝️🌅🕊️🙌 Sin is paid for, death is defeated, Jesus is alive, and anyone who trusts in Him is made new.
“He is not here, for He has risen, as He said.” Matthew 28:6
Examples of discussion topics that have been known to stray outside the scope of the Adafruit Community include, but are not limited to:
- Discussions regarding religion and related topics
Am I able to share something without it involving into a discussion?
Do you mean It doesn't have this socket?
or do you mean there are no pins on your RPi?
Try a more appropriate venue for that. This server is not it.
Now I'm lost. Using an app that uses libevdev for input, but when you run it as root, libevdev is not recognized. Maybe I can recompile with SDL inputs
It had that socket in your photo but that tutorial (linked) requires an additional header, but it didn’t specify it in the parts list so I assumed it was supposed to be included with the Braincraft HAT. If that’s not the case, just wondering what size header would be needed for this tutorial? Thank you!
There is no additional header..? The socket from the hat fits on top of the raspberry pi pins -- or are the pi pins the ones missing?
No the Pi pins are there! It’s a Pi 4B+. I think in the tutorial there is an additional header stacked on top of the Pi used to create space and the HAT is plugged into that. What I’m asking is if I have to get that header separately or if it’s something included in the Braincraft HAT kit? Thank you!
Ah, I checked out the video and I see what you mean.
There are no additional headers included with the hat~~, I think it fits properly over the Pi without any spacers.~~
It looks like the spacer header is this one https://www.adafruit.com/product/2222 , the tall one https://www.adafruit.com/product/1992 is probably too big for the case.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/2222 only has 3mm pins, which may not be enough to get a good grip in the socket on the hat. Those pins are more for soldering on a board. I think https://www.adafruit.com/product/2223 is the right thing -- it is out of stock unfortunately, but it is available on Digikey.
I will ask about what was used for the project. We certainly should add that as a needed part.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4079 also would be suitable, I think, based on https://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?p=1037529
I get the confusion, even the pics on the product page show the hat with an extra header because of the fan
memory mapped GPIO ftw
all GPIO is memory-mapped if you peel off enough abstraction :P
@midnight willow @charred lintel the guide author thinks it is 4079. 2223 would work, maybe trim the pins. Both are 8.5mm body.
The 4079 riser is listed in the Parts list here: https://learn.adafruit.com/youtube-radio/overview#parts-3082095, but it was way down at the bottom. I have moved it up, and also added more detailed instructions here https://learn.adafruit.com/youtube-radio/assemble#step-3082131 to say to use the riser. Thank you for bringing this to our attention.
Printer label sheets
hey guys please develop more plugins maybe plugins for plugins with plugins andd plugins
would it be "cheating" to use a micro controller as a serial interface between the processor i'm building
because i mean i'd implement RS232 but like i don't have a serial port on my computer nor a cable for it
but if i just setup a serial interface from an ESP32 then ez pz problemo solved
not cheating - a USB-serial converter is just a specialized microcontroller
https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_Learning_System_Guides/blob/main/Adafruit_ESP32_Arduino_Demos/SerialESPPassthrough/SerialESPPassthrough.ino is a simple serial passthrough -- you'd need to fiddle with this. Note that if you use an ESP32 with a USB port you are just using the USB-serial converter chip on the board and the ESP32 is just passing serial data back and forth
sweet, i was thinking of just writing something in the espidf or arduino to literally just pass it through because i cant be bothered to buy an RS232 cable i think i've spent more than enough money on this project and i've already got atleast 15 ESP32s laying around from decomissioned projects etc, i was gonna use an ESP32 as an EEPROM writer aswell because in all my searching for chips i forgot to buy an EEPROM writer 
now i could probably put something together for the writer i think that'd be pretty simple i mean it can't be that difficult... can it? hahah
as long as they are boards with a USB-serial chip. But if they weren't, you would already have a USB-serial cable to use them 🙂
they do have USB serial chips
i bought a wifi chip aswell which im excited to see if i can get working on my processor once i finish building the main part of it out
i think that would be pretty interesting to get working on a homebrewed processor
depending on the board, the TX/RX of the USB-serial chip may be brought out to accessible pins or not. If they are available, you don't even need to write a program
oh, nice; would that be UART0?
well TX0, RX0
ESP32 Devkit v1
that's what it says on this one
block diagram would suggest that they're directly linked up
so i don't need a program?
it depends on whether the DTR and RTS need attention or not. but you could just try it. connect up the those pins to another board (and tie the grounds together to), and see if you can read/write data without doing anything else
but easy enough to use that passthrough program otherwise. Compile the passthrough with the TinyUSB option -- it works better that way
aight, thank you
i'll give it a test once i get around to adding serial
don't forget to do TX<->RX and RX<->TX when connecting the two boards
haha made that mistake before xD
@fair summit @charred lintel Thank you for looking into what riser/header I need and for updating the guide. I appreciate the help from the both of you!
More of my noobing....you can grab power from breakout pins on the pi HATs for a fan 🫨
Hello Adafruit community. I am looking for a way to control a strip of Neopixels with a minimal microcontroller. Last year I co-facilitated a youth maker camp at Explora in Albuquerque, NM. Youth built projects using Microbits and Neopixels, but we do not have the budget to send home a Microbit with their projects.
This summer, we will run the camp again. Could we flash a chip that could act as a microcontroller? We anticipate powering it with 3 AA batteries, so we would likely also need a voltage regulator. We are inspired by the Lily Twinkle board and want to make something like this for Neopixels. Thank you for any suggestions you might have.
A chip that acts like a microcontroller is usually... a microcontroller 🙂
Neopixels can be controlled by something like the lily twinkle (the attiny85 microcontroller), but the lily comes pre-programmed, and it's not the easiest to add custom code.
There are pre-programmed neopixel controllers out there, but I'm not sure that is what you want..?
What programming language are you using in the camp, and what would be the available budget for a board?
If you're using Arduino, and can get the extra hw necessary for flashing the boards, you could reprogram the lily twinkle to drive neopixels.
Powering them from 3 AA batteries should be fine.
We have been using Make Code. Howwever, we would be OK giving students choices with a pre-programmed chip that we program with Arduino.
I have to get back to you on our budget after checking with my co-facilitator.
i think knowing a budget would help. there are lots of options with various tradeoffs.
that lilytwinkle is attiny85 based, and may not be a good choice for same reasons as attiny85 based trinkets:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1501
see the deprecation warning on that product page
that'd apply to anything using an attiny85
the newer Trinket M0 is fine though:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3500
the ROM bootloader of the RP2040 might be nice for general durability and avoiding accidental "bricking"
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4900
or a pi pico:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4864
there's no need for a pico2 for basic neopixel driving
with an RP2040, you could also go this route:
https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-libraries-on-any-computer-with-raspberry-pi-pico/overview
which is sort of a different way of going about it
The $8 cost on the trinket might work. However, $2-3 on a flashed ATiny85 sounds better if it could work.
i'd verify it works before committing to getting multiple boards
but the $4 pi pico (32 bit ARM) would be significantly better than the attiny85 (8 bit AVR)
and the ROM bootloader is a very nice feature
I will investigate using the pi pico. I have not driven neopixels with a pi yet.
How much are you including in budget accessories, like the NeoPixel string? Will you need a breadboard, etc.? Circuit Playground Express (out of stock!) is very much meant for this kind of classroom experience, has NeoPixels on board, a lot of sensors, etc. CIrcuit Playground Classic is Arduino-only, similar.
I've been archiving IV-21 vacuum tubes as supply dwindles, and I finally have the last stock from tubes-store heading my way :>
Hoping to build a cool 10-VFD display with them
...And design a weird 2V AC supply for their filaments, i guess
Sneak peek at my definitely not airthings view
I need to move some stuff over on the bitmap background but it’s an early proof of concept
nice, can i ask your source on the icons?
Freepik
@hasty wedge (or anyone else): Do you happen to know any CKLINK-compatible debug dongle that is not the sipeed slogic combo?
You're working with THead?
sg2000 actually, but some forum post claimed it speaks CKLINK
jtag won't work?
It probably doesn't matter anyway, since I found that they actually do not violate sigrok's gplv3 https://github.com/sipeed/sigrok_slogic
It'll probably work in ARM mode?
Dunno, I'll actually get the devboard in a couple weeks
I really have no exprience with RISC-V or Sipeed stuff...
(Their doc left the impression that they did not care about GPL https://wiki.sipeed.com/hardware/en/logic_analyzer/combo8/use_logic_function.html , but apparently there is a gh repo with the source)
Ah yes, GOWIN, the FPGA with no DFF crosstalk problems at all :P
It's a board issue or a silicon issue?
According to the repo, Si issue
It'd be FOSS if they natively supported yosys
Like gatemate are doing
But no, you need to install GOWIN IDE
(unless you are referring to project apicula, which has reverse engineered the littlebee arch)
It'd be way cooler if GOWIN sent some money to yosys to make a proper port
If I will, I will use Xilinx
I am a primary xilinx user too
Xilinx's IDE is free
(* for some parts)
unless you're working with chips that costs you a car or more
Architecturally, they are doing the neat trick that some CLBs can be switched to work as routing
Currently coding for FT60E121 from FMD
"High capability RISC-V CPU"
8 bit RISC MCU with 2KB flash and costs 8 cents each
I love how they are adopting the ?T terminology from the 8051
Yeah, 2T or 4T mode
(I have the datasheet in front of me, though it is not very... foreigner friendly :P)
You guys are conspiring to teach us Mandarin by exposure :P
again, it's just PIC clones
nothing exciting
unless one day Microchip can learn how to produce fairly priced MCUs I am sticking with FMD
But it says RISC-V on the datsheet?
Oh, my eyes glossed over
because they can not legally call themself PIC
Because I am actually reading about RISC-V on another tab xD
Indeed, PIC is very reduced
(Not really, not in the architectural sense of the classic RISC pipeline though)
Well, they gonna come out some name for it
Wanna try compiling dhrystone for it and reporting back the numbers? :P
sure
I am putting that on my todo list
https://gitlab.com/tomari/microbench here is some C source that's been ported to an insane amount of systems
which one?
Then, we can find out where "High-Functionality RISC CPU" lands on here https://www.okqubit.net/bench/
I think it'd be dhry21a.c, dhry21b.c, timers.c
Here's them porting it to TRONCHIP https://www.okqubit.net/3b/trongcc.html
TRON-GCCを用いることで、MCUBEの3Bで動くユーザプログラムをコンパイルできる。
I want to see 1GHz PIC clone :P
It'd be colossally cursed (and probably completely useless), but it'd be fun to see
That is an entirely appropriate response.
BTW, which arch is this part cloning? Looks like PIC16?
Do you write in assembly, or are you using a compiler?
compiler

MPLAB XC8
Is it so bad?
if you can do assembly you can definetely use assembly
FMD IDE uses a "gcc8" compiler
which is actually a packaged and cracked Microchip XC8
The XC8 generates assembly then the IDE assembles and link it to generate the final binary
I replaced the cracked XC8 in my FMD IDE with a legit XC8
How is the programming experience? Does it accept recent enough C or are you stuck with some old version of the standard?
(At least it's not a dialect like padauk)
that's good to hear at least
Anything newer does not work with FMD IDE
The fact you can get a modern compiler for what almost amounts to an ALU + FSM + a memory bus amazes me
:P
Ah yes, it's a 2T/4T, there is some pipelining involved
let me see the FMD's market price right now
😨
FT60E121 is now 4 cents each
my price of 8 cents was outdated
it's not OTP, its erasable
if someone can implement a SDCC target it's going to be incredible
ooh cool
sdcc has pic16 support iirc but it is unmaintained
it also has pic14
but
The PIC14 port adds support for MicrochipTM PICTM MCUs with 14 bit wide instructions. This port is not yet mature
and still lacks many features. However, it can work for simple code.
speaking of, the sg2000 also has an 8051 core on, supported by their sdcc fork : https://github.com/milkv-duo/duo-8051
Is the chip using me or a I using the chip
@hasty wedge why are you doing this to yourself lol
I need to hear,I'm interested
To lower production cost
Of what
If I use a PIC or AVR to solve this problem, I need 2 dollars for each device
If I use FMD then I only need 4 cents with basically no performance degradation
What is the device
Portable fans, humidifier, flashlight etc
Why do you need a chip to control it?
Surely a direct wiring would work just as well for simple devices
So you can control the brightness and flashing
555 timer?
While we are at it, why not add some more features that 555 can't do
Good thinking
It supports C, so no need for assembly
Ooh retro flavor
The compiler is from 2017 and was made by Microchip
So what do you want it to do
Also what's it's maximum amperage output on each pin
Not much, need mosfets
Enough for a few LED
More PCB space
Alright
This is a bizzare reversal of everything I know
Well whatever, should work with a good ol
Pinmode x,1
Delay 500
Pinmode x,0
When you are squeezing every cents out of your production, it's different from makers making one off projects
Vtuber that does production circuits? Interesting

Certainly a unique market
I'm unfortunately too shy to do YouTube
Do you not program a lot?
I do program a lot
So what's the issue lol
Computer science doesn't care what you do as long as it works
The computer itself does not care. Computer science does
In fact, very much so
Do you actually stream?
I don't care for sure I'm just so tired and I feel so dumb all the time
I just want things to work right
used to
not any more
This account is also not in my vtuber character's persona
it's in me, myself

If you don't mind me asking, what made you stop?
(Curious, since I've never tried, nor am I planning to TBH)
I want to spend more time on ECE instead of streaming as an anime girl
no regret
Understood!
I hope you'll continue to enjoy ECE for a long time

BTW, would it be OK to "add" you on discord? We've had positive interactions over the years, and I think it might be worth getting it setup just in case
sure
haha right
can you dm me a link to your channel lol
Yes, the CP would be perfect if our budget allowed us to send them home with the youth. We are trying to find a low-cost solution, less than $10.
I stream on bilibili
I can show you my model though
This was a screenshot taken quite long agao
How would I go about contacting adafruiot for a product i received that dosent work
You'd want to post on the Adafruit forums, which is their official support: https://forums.adafruit.com
Thank you
The Gemma M0 has alligator-clippable pads, and a DotStar (not a NeoPixel) on board. We gave them away 7 years or ago or so at PyCon. I wasn't sure what you wanted to be able to send home with folks: just the board, or board + accessories
Also the QT Py boards are inexpensive, but not solderless connections
QT Py RP2040 is a very capable board <$10.
We would like to send home a jam jar fairy lantern with 4 or 5 Neopixels and an inexpensive way to control them. It would not necessarily need to be reprogrammed, but I like the idea of a Circuit Python file that youth could tinker with.
Last year, we had students remove the Microbit-controlled Neopixels and replace them with through-hole LEDs to take home.
are you prepared to teach them how to solder?
or prepare short strips of neopixels with alligator clips?
Yes, we are planning on soldering this year. Last year I did most of the soldering before camp began. We start the camp making paper circuits and move to programmable circuits.
we have some on-board strips of 8, but they are $7.50. You could cut up the flex strips but they are more fragile
Last year I soldered wires with alligator clips.
We also used these clips
so the gemma m0 could be used with alligator clips, or you could use, say Qt Py RP2040 and use the STEMMA/QT connector to connect to a strip
but the microbit was >$10, wasn't it?
Yes, we kept the Microbits and the youth did not take home a programmable circuit. Instead they were left with a jar and some basic LEDs.
These were delicate, so we might still solder these in advance or use the plastic connectors.
We have these neopixel strands which you could chop up and solder alligantor clips to directly: https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=neopixel+strands
some are more fragile than others
Those dots might be a good fit for us.
old material for PyCon 2018 Gemma giveaway: https://github.com/adafruit/PyCon2018
needs a little revision
pricing varies, as you see. The more expensive ones are sturdier
could also use Pi Pico with headers, and you could send home something with female dupont jumpers,
we have edu quantity pricing, if you don't know that already
Thank you for buying large quantities directly from Adafruit instead of buying cheaper clones from AliExpress
Every time I see Adafruit clones in people's videos it makes me sad
Adafruit should do something about those clones
Maybe legal action?
as long as they are not advertised or marked as adafruit products, it's not an issue
our hw is open source; if people want to clone it they can, they just can't use our trademarks
but of course we provide good support, and that's part of what you pay for
neat
Did you make & rig the model yourself, or did you commission somebody to do it?
neat!
How hard would it be to make a battery and BMS system for my Mac mini pc? It traditionally takes mains power to its mains input. But if you disassemble it there’s 2 surfaces available for DC input, iirc around 22v dc. What I’d like is a battery system to power the Mac mini and the ability to recharge it
You could try something similar to this: https://www.reddit.com/r/macmini/comments/1gvqtks/powered_up_gone_portable_yep_i_built_a/
Granted it does add some bulk
Thanks for the link
Aside from the buying local, supporting the community, nice documentation, etc, a significant portion of why I like buying Adafruit is the cute names for things
Looks like a rectangular post, but I can't tell the dimensions from the picture
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Quick dumb question, x86 cpus and gpu have a thermal resistance embedded to the ic, or is there an external easy identifeable ic which can be tricked?
You need to cool them sufficiently, there's no free lunch so to speak. Since yes, embedded sensors.
And more sensors scattered around the GPU board or PC motherboard, etc.
And via software you can tell em to ignore temp untill a certain point... No way to tell to completely ignore the threshold?
I’m fairly certain there is a hard thermal cutoff in the chip, as I’ve had a laptop hard shutoff without warning as it hit around 100c.
Pretty much facing the same problems
If your device is shutting off from overheating you need to fix the cooling issue (either clean the cooling/etc or limit the CPU/GPU to lower performance modes), not bypass the safety mechanism.
Disabling the throttle/shutdown would just cause the component to destroy itself entirely when it overheated further. The safety levels are there for a reason.
Not a cooling issue, I think it's the sensor that's off, cause it jumps from like 50 to 100 in idle
a program im doing wants me to show off some of the computer and electronics projects i make. i feel super awkward putting myself out there, but maybe check it out as its a bit relevant to what adafruit is about :)
This is me! If you’ve ever felt afraid to take the leap, this is your sign to start! :)
Let’s build together! 💪✨
I'll be posting lots on X (just made an account:) https://x.com/Freesiagaul
Join my Discord and yap projects! https://discord.gg/7CE7SmnFVy
If you're in Australia, you should join our events at ACES! https://acesociety.co...
Looks great. I saw a couple clips of you holding a microphone so you must of been doing public speaking (or more brave, singing) so clearly you are more comfortable than many of us. Keep it up and keep having fun.
thanks! :D
im trying to set up a society with some hardware founders in australia called the australian creative electronics society, so ive really been pushed out of my shell recently to do what i want to see around me
super fun
super spooky
🤣
I assume by your lack of an Australian accent you are not Australian (you sound very American to me)? So if you are living there now that is further proof are you a lot more putting yourself out there than you give yourself credit. @leaden rover since I forgot to hit the reply from yours.
yeah i sorta jumped back and forth a lot as a kid and eventually stayed here after the pandemic made the decision for me (im australian/canadian) 😅
i appreciate the kind words :)
hey is there a chat for help with the trinket m0? having some issues as of right now
If you're trying to code something in Arduino or CircuitPython, ask in #help-with-arduino or #help-with-circuitpython, respectively. Otherwise, #help-with-projects is a good catch-all channel to get help.
i actually kinda figured it out
i had repurposed my trinket m0 to use as a regular keypad to toggle mute and my clippin software as well as use the touch for deafen
Hi, need some suggestions (or perhaps a pointer to the correct channel for this request). I need to buy or create a controller that would pass-through 12VDC input to a device for 5 seconds before dropping that voltage down to 7V (doesn't matter if it's a smooth ramp or just a drop). This is for use with a solenoid to prevent long term thermal damage. I think a DC motor controller could work, but I do not know of any that are programmable via microcontroller or timer.
there are several "pick and hold" or "hit and hold" off the shelf solutions, but the peak current time is often <1s. If you want complete customization, you're looking at a motor driver with an MCU for timing and PWM control.
The KG-ID-V4 Inline Driver simplifies operating coil devices, like solenoids and electromagnets, with its hit-and-hold configuration. This driver activates at full power and then drops down to a lower holding power, significantly reducing operating temperature and energy consumption. Different hit-and-hold profiles, including a solid-state relay...
That device actually looks perfect- though as you were saying, if it requires a trigger that would mean a separate timer or mcu control? I am going to do some research on "pick and hold coil drivers" and see what I can find as far as having an integrated timer, thank you!
Hard shutdown baked in the silicon as far as I know
Easier to buy liquid coolers
You can 3d print them! I can 3d print them!
Probably just measure the size and Google "rubber pushbutton cap"
You might look into specific solenoid drivers that have the built in "hold current" option. Not sure if they are readily available on a breakoutboard but ICs such as https://www.ti.com/product/DRV120 which does have an evalution board but is expensive at $75 if you are just doing a hobbyist project. The 8-pin chips itself is only $2.16 in single quantities from DigiKey.
Ogther TI options shown here: https://www.ti.com/motor-drivers/solenoid/overview.html
Our scalable portfolio of solenoid drivers offers solutions for various loads with system protection
Alternatively, you can use a second transistor to switch power via a current limiting resistor
Hello everyone, I am using the Adafruit PCA9685 to drive 8 servos. The OE enable pin was working great with the original cheap MG996R knockoffs. I upgraded to a new set of DS3218 20Kg.cm servos and they are a lot nicer and smoother. However, they completely ignore the OE pin altogether. If I switch back to the old servos, the OE pin works and shuts down the servos when it goes high, so I know the issue is in the way the new servos work. I think they are just build this way. I have two questions
- Does anyone know why the OE pin is ignored and how it could possible work?
- Let's say the answer to question 1 is no, I would like to avoid using an external relay and instead use some circuit to interface with the OE pin and cutoff the power off the servos. Is there any suggestions or recommendations for doing that? I am pretty rusty, my my intuition is to use a P-channel MOSFET? The servos operate on 6.8V while the PCA9685 runs on 5V. I don't think the gate voltage is high enough to activate the MOSFET. Any suggestions please?
Thanks
it has been a while since I last used kicad, on the pcb layout editor, there's no flip function or some kind of addon that adds it?
Are you looking for Change Side / Flip?
indeed
ah. I dunno how I did not notice, thanks
i got the wrong octal bridge transceiver, it does 'A to B or B' to A instead of A to B or B to A
inverting logic my beloved, imma just use them as an inverter for now until i come up with a use for them, i've ordered some of the right ones now haha
Also this command should in theory place a copper/solder mask on the pcb, but on the 3d preview, on the top layer is placed correctly, on the bottom layer, I'm getting a gold-like layer and I cannot understand why
nvm I had one layer inactivated on the 3d viewer
Idk if it's dementia or I should touch some grass
Hi everyone!
I’m facing an issue with my Arduino Nano. Earlier, while building a different RC project, I accidentally connected the battery pack’s positive wire directly to the Nano’s 5V pin instead of the Vin pin. Some smoke appeared, but the Nano still seemed to work at that time.
Now, when I'm trying to use the Nano again (for making a transmitter with NRF24L01), it behaves weirdly:
When I power it via USB, the Nano’s LED lights up normally.
But when I power it with a 7.4V battery through Vin and GND, the onboard LED becomes very dim, and the NRF24L01 adapter doesn’t power up properly.
I measured the 5V output with a multimeter — it shows only around 2.14V.
I tested the same NRF24 setup with an Arduino Uno, and everything works fine there.
From this, I guess the voltage regulator or something else on the Nano might be damaged.
My questions:
-
Is there any way I can repair or bypass the damaged part to make the Nano usable again?
-
Should I try re-flashing the bootloader, or is it more of a hardware issue now?
-
Would it be safe to continue using this Nano in any low-power projects, or should I just replace it?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
This is a hardware issue. Sounds like you damaged the regulator, because its output is too low, and you may have damaged the other chips on the board, since you applied well above their max voltage, though not to the point of failure. Both the 328P and the FT232RL chip have an absolute maximum voltage rating of 6v. They may fail early or operate erratically. You could replace the regulator chip, but it would be safer to just stop using the board.
There is a risk to using the board, but if you are observing normal operation over USB, there is a good possibility that you can either replace the regulator, or supply a regulated 5V to USB from a regulated 5V source. It would be best to use a new board for project use, but could be fine to keep around for development purposes.
Sorry but hard disagree. You've fried who knows what, likely including circuits of the MCU itself. Too much voltage = crispy chips. It's no longer valid for development IMHO.
To this point, I have an S2 board I blew the regulator on. Replaced it and worked fine, or so I thought. Recently found out the ADC on one pin works fine, while the ADC on the next pin over has a big voltage offset on it reading everything way too high. Board still works for the most part and on that pin that I know works I have been able to drive a string of Neopixels. I didn't try the "fault" pin for that though. Anyway, the point being it kind of works normally except for certain things, so I certainly won't be using it to develop anything, but if I need to drive some neopixels off the good pin, I can still use it for that.
does any one know what pins are being used for the onboard fan header on the CM5 IO Board?
They have the schematic in Chapter 4 of https://datasheets.raspberrypi.com/cm5/cm5io-datasheet.pdf.
Thank you, I found pin 19 (fan PWM)
Is that addressable through the OS?
(I’m running HASSOS and want to have more control over it)
This might be a better question from one of the help with channels, but does anyone know if what I recieved is the correct thing? I ordered the Feather Stacking Headers, and the 16 pin side has long pins, but the 12 pin side is short pins...
This is not correct. Could you open a thread in https://forums.adafruit.com/viewforum.php?f=57 and post your photo? How many bags did you buy? It looks like you opened one bag and not the other.
Ping me after you post the thread and I'll reply and authorize a replacement.
I replied already
Back to some hardware... with the Sparkle Motion Stick! 🌈🪄
Over the holiday break, we designed a few Sparkle Motion (https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=sparkle+motion) ESP32 boards for use with WLED. They’ve been working well, so we decided to finish up the third version we cooked up—a USB “stick” for quick builds that you can power from a wall adapter, computer, or even a USB battery pack for portability. We managed to fit in a fuse, an I²S microphone, infrared-remote input, a mode-select button, two level-shifted outputs, and terminal blocks. It’s designed to fit inside a pre-made snap-fit case (https://www.adafruit.com/product/6176).
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : Search Results - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireless Young Engineers 3D printing NeoPixels Kits & Projects Robotics & CNC Accessories Cosplay/Co...
googles part ah yes, Chinese. That I can’t read 😅
Seems really cool from what I can gather
sends HSK1 textbook
We can fix that! :P
Given enough time, I’m sure I’ll have plenty enough motivation to learn it
千里之行始於足下
I can read a fair bit of Chinese, but looking at this product overview, I barely have to haha
Standard specs and peripherals are readable enough at least, just maybe some specific line items that might need a closer look.
No idea what a Cordic accelerator is...
COordinate Rotation DIgital Computer. Uses successive approximation to calculate functions (e.g. square roots).
Yeah, used for approximations of trig funcs and sqrt
It's a pretty cool algo, trivially pipelineable too
I enjoyed the Memento camera Adabox 021 with the factory programming when I received it, but it took me a long time to finally get around to installing Circuit Python and the "Fancy Program" on it. This camera is AWESOME !! I love the onion skin stop motion and the gif maker. And now there are so many cool Memento tutorials on the web site !!
I'm actually building a 'big brother' based on the idea of the Memento but more of a 'shrunk in the wash full sized' point-and-shoot camera. Pi Zero w/ a single 18650 "UPS" board and a 3-inch-ish 640x480 display running one of the newer Pi camera modules. Testing things with the global shutter right now but no reason I can't support the HQ later.
Only real obstacles are it's looking like I'll need to get a custom FPC cable made, and a case to actually carry this thing around more usably.
You can do a lot with stock FPC cables and creative folding
It's mostly the length (even the 150mm one) being too long, and being on a Zero there's a lack of cable choices compared to the older 15-pin wide cables since that uses the newer 22-pin narrow connector.
And at that point might as well just get an FPC that includes the right-angle turn I need as I can also have the shiny-side be on the correct side to avoid having to mount the sensor 180 upside-down and route the FPC a bit more cleanly as well.
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Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : New Products - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireless Young Engineers 3D printing NeoPixels Kits & Projects Robotics & CNC Accessories Cosplay/Cost...
🔐 The SLB 9670VQ2.0 FW7.85 SPI TPM module sounds like something your cat would type mid-zoom call — but it's actually a serious piece of security hardware.
This TPM (Trusted Platform Module) chip is used in motherboards and SBCs to store crypto keys, generate true random numbers, and keep your hardware’s trust chain tight, even if the rest of your system isn’t Fort Knox. TPM 2.0 is even a requirement for modern OSes like Windows 11.
We got a request for a breakout board and luckily DigiKey has it in stock:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/infineon-technologies/SLB9670VQ20FW785XTMA1/11697680
So we’re prototyping a clean SPI breakout to make integrating this chip easy for devs and makers alike. Customer-requested, hacker-approved 🙂 ⚡🛡️
Ooooh, neat! 😄
oh PEAK
I'd love to use that in my uni capstone project as an excuse to learn more lowlevel crypto stuff
Tossing it on the pile of chips to look into for a grow system I’m dreaming up
TPM? For a ... grow system??
Do you have any digital design experience? FPGAs are particularly suitable for low-level cryptography accel
because bitwise manips/etc are essentially free
I want to do some secure data transfer and have accounts on the device
Do I need drivers for the db9 breakout box It gets recognized but doesn’t seam to want to work, I’m using to for serial to usb for afr reading on my car
Please specify the Adafruit product ID of the "db9 breakout box" that you're referring to.
my CPU is coming together, got the registers connected to the bus, got some control lines that i need to wire up, i think once i've got most of it working i'm gonna use an RP2040 as a GPU 
Or go for an RP2350, it's sooo trivial to get DVI output from that with the HSTX it's comical.
i wanna buy something with an rp2350 on it but i already have a couple of Picos
That's fair!
once i get into that part of it i was just gonna use a pico with an SPI display
so i don't need to butcher any VGA cables 
I admit I do wish there was a feather-format that just natively had the HDMI port instead of the HSTX -> DVI dongle to jump to.
i have a 3.5 inch capacative touch screen somewhere that i may try and connect to it at some point but i feel like that'd be way too janky and idk if i'd have enough pins for the address lines and the data lines along side the display, iirc it uses like 8 pins or something daft
i think it's got 2 SPI connections on it, one for the display and one for the touch
i could use an esp32 s3 with it's bajillion pins but also that's overkill 
for a cpu i'll run at like 1khz - 10khz at most it doesn't need that much power for a GPU haha
in fairness, i checked the capacitance of my breadboards and from what i can tell it could run at a few mhz, all my components can run at 129 mhz under ideal conditions so it's entirely possible that i could run it at a few mhz
Two 16-Bit Power Monitors Get QT’d: INA237 & INA238 ⚡🔍
While looking for a component on DigiKey, we noticed there's a lot of INA237s in stock — a part we hadn’t used much:
🔗 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/INA237AIDGSR/14004323
Lots of stock usually means it’s a popular choice, so we dug in. Turns out it’s a 16-bit version of the INA228, which we already have a breakout for:
🔗 https://www.adafruit.com/product/5832
Even better, the INA237 is quite a bit cheaper. It looks like it’s code-compatible, so we’re grabbing some protos of the INA237 and the slightly-better INA238 to compare:
🔗 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/INA238AQDGSRQ1/14641449
Hi all, new person here. Just getting started in messing with Trinkets and such. I am a total newbie to this stuff.... my old frickin age. This stuff was not around in my day. So i am hoping to pick some brains of people out there that are smarter than I.
Hey.. i'm fixing a samsung intel laptop/tablet.
works on battery only.
no charge, and not work with charge only..
i'm troubleshooting... and find someting ... for some reason this transistor is not letting voltage pass
I feel you. I started tinkering about 3 or 4 years ago but I never really realized that this so interesting until now. I only got like 20 good years left
Actually scratch that about 15 years ago I was developing some really basic Android apps and getting another basics of embedded software
I got a lot of useless gaming knowledge if anyone needs it 🤣
Hey tinkerers! I'm new to the space but started building a concept prototype for an iot device, what's a good channel for me to dive into to see what others are building
I'm considering applying for a provisional patent and building some firmware
Got a little esp32 kit getting rush shipped to me tomorrow
I'm midway through a VLSI course right now, but really chomping at the bit to do more
Nice! Is your textbook Weste & Harris?
it's this one, but I'd be eager to hear any recommendations for further reading
Huh. First time I'm seeing this one :)
Weste & Harris is focused more on the physical side of things
(I need to read through the thing one day)
Other cool books:
https://pages.hmc.edu/harris/ddca/ddcarv/
https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-030-37195-1 (Also comes with companion yt videos: https://www.youtube.com/@electrontube4284)
another topic I really wanna review is just general analog design. My analog circuits class got a LITTLE into it, and we did 1 or 2 labs with T and pi-type filters, but I'd love to build-up the intuition to be able to independently derive them
there, I cannot help you. I have less analog knowledge than a baby
It's def a challenge lol, we did do the effort of actually solving the PDEs for one of the filters, it ended up being some 4th-order insanity
Makes me wonder what high-level RF engineering is like
I guess you could do some substitution to turn it into a known 2nd order form?
Or did you have to use an infinite series along with the boundary conditions?
No idea! As far as I know, all RF is dark magic
this was like 1.5 years ago, i'll see if I still have my lab notes
3rd order, rather, and we just had to do laplace for the homework
but we DID do a PDE solution as a lab demo
the alpha & beta symbols came from a pre-solved textbook formula for an under-damped oscillator, but tbh there's so much missing & such bad handwriting that this is all kinda gibberish lmao
To be honest, I can only solve up to second 😔
Never needed anything above that
(so far)
As I understand it, even actively-working EEs pretty much don't touch PDEs
I am very much not an EE, or any other kind of engineer :)
I'm just some person, currently floating around the 'net
THAT SAID i think it'd be sick to grind these topics to the point of being able to derive my own AM radio design
Go you! :D
I am on the opposite side of the fence: I am fine solving PDEs, but my EE skills are not that good
of course, most PDEs can't be explicitly solved other than numerically
EE is kinda just hard, like actually deriving new designs is a lot of applied physics & math
Sure, Just E/M that doesn't really touch relativistic/quantum stuff basically ever, but still physics
<--- read the first few chapters of an Antenna Design textbook and got scared
Okay one last ramble before I get back to work, but like... I started researching basic GPS standards (L1) and honestly I'm extremely fascinated by the concepts here. Finally having a surface-level grasp of CDMA & BPSK stuff kinda blew my undergrad mind & I wish I could easily learn more-- My CE program doesn't even touch information theory until, like, senior year & above.
like yeah, the actual position-finding is cool, but signal theory is neat af
My instructor for VLSI used a book by Jan M Rabaey
Have you looked into Inertial Sense? They make a 10-DoF positioning sensor that uses a ton of Kalman filters to fuse GPS, RTK, and movement data to do cm accurate positioning
what's a good channel for me to … see what others are building
#show-and-tell
Excellent thank you very much
I just finished filing my provisional utility patent so it's perfect timing to share
Just remember to look over the Advertising Policy: #welcome message
For clarity, how do I reach out to that role specifically
WDYM?
Sorry I just want to make sure I'm reading it right it says please reach out to the community moderators role
I didn't know if it needed approval before posting
Oh that says community that you'd like to share apologies
Just a misread
Thank you very much
Hopefully that meets all of the guidelines , I appreciate the space to share
Is there a chat for asking information on adafruit products? What would be the best channel for that?
@twin saddle just choose a channel that is close to the product function, or here or #general-tech or #help-with-projects also fine
if the conversation gets really specific, you may get redirected to a certain channel
T.Y! I've asked sometime ago, but I had no answer.
I want to play around with the quad rotary encoder (and do something with 2 to 4 of those boards), but I'm having trouble finding rotary encoders with a translucent stem + button.
anything like this https://www.adafruit.com/product/5676
It's a lot of work to solder 8 to 16 rotary encoders and then have to redo that again when those rotary encoders become available, or, alternatively, it feels sad to have the neopixels there and not even have some hacky way to channel the light to outside.
could 3D print something?
That's just the cap. The rotary encoder stem/shaft needs to be translucent for the light to get there.
I wouldn't mind. But I have no idea if I can disassemble a rotary encoder, replace the shaft and assemble again (times 8, 12, or 16).
would something like this work? https://www.sparkfun.com/rotary-encoder-illuminated-rgb.html
Would be perfect if the pinout was compatible. I'm not sure the bottom is open, since it has it's own LEDs. This one is particularly nice, because it has a push button. The best I could find before (that had compatible pinouts) either had no button, or also had the RG LED (again, IDK if the bottom was open)
Thanks for looking those up.
I thought Adafruit had something similar but maybe I was thinking the potentiometer with neopixels 
yeah finding something THAT specific might be a bit of work, maybe you could get some PCB breakout boards to reroute pins depending on what your space constraints are in the project, but sounds like you're trying to upgrade/reuse a current product since you mentioned pinout compatibility
I mean the pinout for the quard rotary encoder which is 3pins on one side + 2 on the oposite (plus 2 clasp-like things that can also be soldered)
This product: https://www.adafruit.com/product/5752
Rotary encoders are soooo much fun! Twist em this way, then twist them that way. Unlike potentiometers, they go all the way around and often have little detents for tactile feedback. But, if ...
These have LEDs, no button, and I can't tell if the the bottom of the shaft is open.
Thank you so much for searching this. I'm afraid you're going to end up in the same place I did.
The video announcing the quad rotary encoder mentioned that adafruit would possibly stock these hard-to-procure rotary encoders at some point. That's why I'm asking here.
Someone knows a generic name for this thing?
https://brilliancelaserinks.com/products/aerosol-spray-can-for-metals-marking-with-co2-fiber-yag
can't buy from us, and it's really expensive
Not sure how does this thing even work, supposedly you spray it, laser it, the mark then is amplified and permament, and then wash it off
what it actually does idk
maybe @rapid geode (sorry for the ping)
i think thats used for marking stainless. my friend had soem with his epilog laser. i dont know anything else about iut
for aluminum, stainless, should come off easily
As far as I can tell, it's generically referred to as "laser marking spray". Looks like the key ingredient is a molybdenum compound (either oxide or sulfide). Found a youtube vid of a product comparison: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emlVbVSWPT0
In-depth testing of various commercial laser marking products as well as CRC Dry Moly Lube. Tests performed on stainless steel, copper, brass, and aluminum.
Products shown:
BEST OVERALL LaserBond 100: https://amzn.to/35Uz2kX
CRC Dry Moly Lube: http://amzn.to/2BBLTeI
Cermark LMM6000 :http://amzn.to/2BE0Yg3
Cermark LMM14: https://www.johnson...
Does anyone have a PokitPro? Would anyone know why I’m getting 4.4 ohms instead of the actual 2.2 ohm reading that I am supposed to be getting?

