#general-chat
1 messages · Page 78 of 1
It probably would (an ultrasonic sensor would). However, it too might get confused by roots
Do you know the FOV of an ultrasonic sensor off hand?
FOV doesn't matter since it's looking into a tube
Wouldn't it get a response from the tube walls?
the reflections within the tube might be a bit much
tof might be better if the tube was non-reflective
Alright, I'm going to try the ToF sensor, for science, if anything. 🙂
What I don't know now is my order of multiplexor and the extender.
build one first 😀
If the multiplexer comes first, I would need multiple extenders.
Id use another type of sensor than i2c
You will need a source of power on each end of the extender
I2C is easier to extend than (say) SPI
because i2c has a small cable length limit, and shielded/unshielded make a big difference . SPI is more tolerant to that (google says 10m vs 0.5m for I2c))
and it depends on distance, as well -- if your pots are too far apart, you'll need to use extenders on each
personally Id use a local iot device with wifi on each...
if Im going to go throught the troubles of a powered extender
Hmm, are you implying that it requires a sender and a receiver for the extender? It is my understanding that you only need 1, and it amplifies the signal.
you could have a base station and the local iot is mostly in low sleep mode and wake-up/transmit a data history like every 1 min or 5 min to the base station (like I dont think the water level will change significantly in 1 s)
- simpler to code, + can show all pots individually on adafruit io 🙂
Yes it will change quickly when it's being filled.
Those are terminators, not amplifiers. However, they (and your sensors) will need a power supply. There are fancier I2C extenders that include active electronics.
even better - if you use MQTT as the protocol, you can use the HA MQTT integration to "roll your own" sensor(s), so if you have a wifi-enabled micro, you would be pretty good to go
WiFi is always going to be more complicated than a wired connection
Ok, I must have misunderstood that. Let me go read that. I thought I only needed to have 1 at the beginning of the i2c chain.
No, it goes at the end (presumably where your sensors or multiplexor are)
I alreay have about 15 ESP32's in that tent. I had to give the tent it's own access point.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5405 plus https://www.adafruit.com/product/5396 might be enough, just as a very rough guess
What's life without a little RISC? This miniature dev board is perfect for small projects: it comes with our favorite connector - the STEMMA QT, a chainable I2C port, WiFi, ...
The Adafruit VL53L4CD Time of Flight Sensor is another great Time of Flight distance sensor from ST in the VL5 series of chips, this one is great for shorter distances. The sensor ...
If you're curious, here's a fancier active I2C extender (from a different vendor): https://www.sparkfun.com/products/16988
"Using this board is easy: connect it to your I2C bus at the beginning of the chain (if you don't have a massively long cable, you can also try at the end of the chain). " ~ https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-ltc4311-i2c-extender-active-terminator
Really cool project btw @zealous void . I dont hsve a green thumb personally and even electronics wouldnt save plants from me 😦
To me, it seems like you put it at the beginning of your chain, and you don't need extra power at the other end?
add https://www.sparkfun.com/products/18000 and you basically can "daisy chain" all of your sensors over I2C
Thank you @violet parcel, this year has been a test and optimization year. I have really enjoyed it. Mixing something so extremely digital, with the complete opposite, is refreshing. My wife and bank account haven't enjoyed it however.
Hi, do you know a light library to encrypt data on a esp32 ? I would like to decrypt this data on a rpi using python.
is this over wifi and/or with an http request ?
LoRa
so a basic AES encryption should be enough but I'm not able to find a light and easy lib to use, is it normal ?
ah nevermind then. I thought you were going to use a library over wifi and/or https
well most esp support aes hardware acceleration so youd have to find a library that take advantage of that / that use the memory as an intermiate medium to take advantage of the MCU
what language do you uses on the MCU ?
this will go farther than just a library too OFC since you will have to store a key on the MCU
Id use AESIO on circuitpython personally since it's already in the "same language" as the decoder
I'm using Cpp
last suggestion - for integration with Home Assistant, try the MQTT route (i'm really digging it) - https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/sensor.mqtt/
Yes, I love mqtt. ❤️
ah I dont know then I only use arduino C and circuitpython not familiar with the C++ ESP API(esp-idf)
Did you see these? https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=fluid+level
@violet parcel wanted to post this link, but it was incorrectly caught by the bad word filter: https://github.com/hishizuka/pizero_bikecomputer
thanks! It seems cool (talking about it outside help-with-circuitpython because this isnt in circuitpython and Im not the other person who asked)
Always wanted to do something like this but I thought the sensors includinded in a crankset were prioprietary and also I dont know what to do about the vibration / shielding/weather protection. Since this is ble I guess It would be much easier if I did a protection box for the rpi2/rpi4
we had a couple of circuitpython bike projects fwiw https://learn.adafruit.com/bluetooth-bicycle-speed-cadence-sensor-display-with-clue & https://learn.adafruit.com/pyloton
Might be interesting to see what kind of cadence sensors are available. The best would be one installed in the cran but my bike shop usually tells me my bicycle is too old to be worth anything else than basic repair
Like it cant be modded because the whole wheel/cransk would need to be changed etc so I might have to do it myself like last time when I modded the brakes to two shimano grade up
A gas sensors (CO/CO2) would be useful too because one of the bicycle lane line is near a gas duct that always seems to come out of the duct in my quebec and it always it when I use that bicycle lane but maybe it is inoffensive
I strongly suspect it's natural gas
I think my 1000 ohm would go at R1/R4 for the leds brightness that I want
not sure yet about the cap/transistor. I suppose I have to change r2/r3 to match the new ohms of R1/R4
Havent found yet on the pn2222 where it says the activation voltage is 0.6 or 0.7V
That is where I would need to find a simulator software I guess
Circuits/Transistors/Multivibrators/Astable Multivib
https://www.falstad.com/circuit/
their dont have leds, Im looking at https://www.falstad.com/circuit/e-multivib-a.html
also I only have 100uFs capacitors
seems to take forever when simulated with 100uF
simulation is currently running at 1/100th for me, you can add LEDs though, and change the capacitors, on the simulation. Can change the simulation speed too
I didnt even know we could add new component/share it
I avoided passing a url earlier due to its bulkiness, and political issues that came up with shorteners in the past.
yeah that's why I asked in community instead of using an url rewrite service. It would have seemed like a suspicious links so I wanted to know what the moderators wanted me to do 🙂
Maybe they're more chill now and generally leave the thwacking to the bots? I'm happy to test. ;-)
It's less scary than that admin whose name I dont remember that asked if you could talk in DM 🤣
dont remember her name but Im not seeing her in the mod list
Well, I'm not looking for a showdown. Just testing the bridge on reasonable behavior.
kattni I think ? But not sure why only has the circuit python role now
She no longer works at adafruit.
Hi all,
What is the input volage range for https://www.adafruit.com/product/3178?
Curious if I could power with https://www.adafruit.com/product/727
well that's odd
The base characteristics are 2.5V to 6V. Fixed 3.3V output. According to the schematic vbat and vusb both have the voltage regulator. I guess it's because of the lipoly charger on-board that you can't use normal batteries
My solution would be that you use a AA battery holder to standard USB or a usb powerbank (but without connecting anything to VBAT)
I have been taking a flu jab each year for last 4 years. It's been great since I never did that before and normally got sick with cold or flu once a year. So anyway that all came to an end about 90 hours ago when I got sick very fast. Body aches, hot and cold, coughing but the biggest thing tiredness. I am not joking when I say I don't think I've been awake for more than 10 hours in the last 90.
I am over the worst of it but still very tired. Time to eat some soup
And yes. It's a tea spoon 😄
I'm trying to put my own graphics on an off the shelf gateway. I tried contacting the company behind it and the MOQ for whitelabeling is 10K, while this is more of a hobby project. I was able to rip off the branding cover using a bit of steam. Any idea what kind of material this is? Looks a bit like a vinyl sticker.
LTT is so funny
Hey guys, for a robotics project I need a range sensor that can go out to 500m, or as short as like 10m, accuracy isn’t terribly important but I cannot seem to find a sensor capable, any ideas? Thinking the same tech in golf sensors
Interesting.. ok that’s a bummer. Thanks for the advice
i think you will need to look at LIDAR for those distances
You could asks one of the helper but Im personally nto copmfortable recommending that someone put battery to charging lithium battery charging pins if the battery are alkalines/nicd of the wrong voltage. When you could get a 6-7$ AA batteries to USB converter. I dont know enough just from this schematic to make sure it wont try to charge alkalines battteries or what happens if you use a usb converter vs a lithium battery charging (possibly not enough A)
Folks, this pedal looks amazing, and it seems to be open hardware as well as free software.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_VVdt1tBMQ
This fully open source pedal is a blank canvas for creating new and wonderful audio effects. In this video I take a look at the project and demo some effects modules that others and myself have created for it. Many of the effects modules are stereo, so use headphones for the best experience.
0:00 - Intro
0:40 - Pedal Overview
2:40 - DaisySeedPr...
I haven't played with the microcontroller they use, the Daisy seed, but would make a cool circuitpython board, of course.
https://electro-smith.com/products/daisy-seed
Supply Chain: Stable Daisy is an embedded platform for music. It features everything you need for creating high fidelity audio hardware devices. Just plug in a USB cable and start making sound! Programming the Daisy is a breeze with support for a number of languages including C++, Arduino, and Max/MSP Gen~. To get star
You can asks here, for general questions #general-chat #general-tech and #help-with-projects are generally suitable depending on scale and wheter the other channels are busy (my personal opinion) and how much you will get into non-electronic side-subjects
Like if someone has a complex project taking multiple scroll I try to not use help with projects until they are done
so tldr: you can asks here I think
good luck with the MCU need a lot of memory to keep the codes and protocol definitions that seem to be the difficulty here the rest is just a simple tv remote with long-range wide band IR emitters especially if you uses sketch vs a firmware
yeah, but you need the code to run it. Unless you use the MCU directly to burn the firmware it you will be limited to a sketch
It's not just using the same components...
Im assuming since you use a breadboard you also use a MCU dev board and not the MCU only by itself like in the schematic
Im saying that imply you will have to convert the code since it's for a firmware and not for a MCU sketch. So you might need to make a arduino sketch from it and convert the code. But you will need a capable chip as the codes/protocols definition alone are 112kb of code
It's not complex, just a good project that can be done little by little. It will just take some more time than simply lighting a led
The usefulness of paying for this is basically for the code in it 🙂
the components costs like 1$ so who cares
no a pico would make it much harder
you have code for avr boards youd need to do a compete conversion for another architecture like rp2040
Im trying really hard to make my explanations easy to understand for you without answering questions you havent asked. The code part is what make this difficult, dont make it harder by using another mcu architecture
do you understand how this works besides the components ? when I say codes and protocols ?
understanding that if key to understanding why it needs a lot of coding
each TV have a code for each button on the remote, ie: function
like on one remote power on, could be 0x710 on another 0x99 and so on. A remote needs to know which codes is associated to which TV brand. This remote kit support around 40 TVs brands
The other issue is that each TV uses their owns protocol, like a sony might have 4 bits for the device id, like 1101 and 7 bits for the command and a termination bit
while another might have another protocol so the code for this remote need to find out what TV it is and what code to send for power-on / power-off
this require lot of data. Then that is encoded in the IR it transmits. SO it's not just lighting an IR led, it's lighting it a certain way and blinking it because each TV have a different blinking rate for their ir receiver (duty cycle/PWM)
sorry to disappoint you a bit but it's kinda can of complicated coding
so youd buy the kit instead of making it and use a pico to press the button ?
well you changed the scope, I was explaining your original scope of building it yourself on a breadboard. Im telling you that wont do anything without the code. Now you say you wont do that anymore ?
yeah, just buy the kit, desolder the button connect the pico pins to the 4 terminals and implement a software switch on the pico
except send it in 5V not 3.3V because thew attiny is 5V and the pico is 3.3V. Pressing the button physically will require a servo/selenoid, not likely to work(tiny button) and will need an external power source
Sorry not trying to ruin your plans just trying to find an easy way to do this for you
for the voltage I'm less experience with that so you could wait a couple of hours for a community helper to tell you. The goal is to simulate the switch going to the attiny 85V-10 mcu on the kit to the reset pin from the 3.3V pico
That should totally work, it's a fairly simple circuit.
You should just be able to connect the Pico ground to the TV-B-Gone ground (could use the pads for switch pins 1-2 for this to make it easy), leave the switch out, and connect a Pico GPIO to the pads for switch pins 3-4. The 3.3V logic from the Pico should correctly drive the input on the ATtiny.
I have no idea: a particular youtube video refuses to be embedded giving video unavailable, click on it, it rendirects you go the full page, The setting on YouTube is enabled. Every random video works, but not that one (I did upload it), making a new upload, doesn't work either
YouTube tends to do that for music videos
(discussion continuing in another channel; please don't cross-post)
redirected them to hw-design since their question involves PSU voltage/current diagnostics.
The copyright thing, doesn't flag anything.. soo it's up to youtube management and not mine right?
Basically yeah
Does anyone know how to get a new authentication code for the two factor login to the website? I need to re add it to my Authenticator app but can’t find the code in my email.
nope sugest you email support@adafruit.com
@rotund arrow disable 2FA, then re-enable... you can use the recovery codes if the 2FA sync is lost
WE ARE LIVE! ASK AN ENGINEER! https://youtu.be/1giRvG9yGI0
ASK AN ENGINEER 1/17/2024 LIVE!
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com
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sooooooon
Does anyone recommend a inexpensive ultrasonic speaker with beam forming that is comparable with arduino?
You can pull the transducers out of ordinary ultrasonic rangefinders as a starting point
You get a pair of them and a driver for $4 (you'd need a second driver to use the other one as a speaker, on this board, it's used as a microphone) https://www.adafruit.com/product/4007
Ok cool thanks
If you're looking for something fancier, these might do https://senscomp.com/products/ultrasonic-transducers/
View a large selection of Ultrasonic Transducers online, Electrostatic & Piezoelectric Transducers
You'd need a separate driver for those, however
Ok thanks
Dont forget to keep your bootloader updatet 😉
Ufff, I just realized I cannot read 😅
Got myself the PCF8575 I2C GPIO expander, only to go back to the page and somehow just now notice it doesn't come with a cable
Oh well, no premade cable for me, gotta wire in on my own
If you mean a stemma cable yeah those are always sold separately.
Does anyone know of a reasonably wideband ultrasonic microphone (looking for 20kHz to as high as possible for a reasonable price)? I've tried electret and a piezoelectric HC-04 style sensor, but the electret isn't very sensitive to ultrasound (which makes sense lol) and the piezo sensor only recieves in a narrow frequency band.
If I am not wrong, I saw you on youtube 🙄.
It's possible, I do have content on youtube. However, I don't think I've done anything on ultrasonics.
Hello, I'm new to electronics and the Adafruit system/products in general. Without knowing much, I bought 2 feathers, one ESP32 S2, and a Adalogger M0 and a 3" 8 ohm speaker from my local MicroCenter. I bought them with the intent of jumping in and trying to learn how to do something with them. So far I can make things blink and print text to oled and tft displays, read battery and current info. Now I'd like to trigger the playback of a few sound files via button press on a project. I see that both feathers have dac. Do I need to add an amplifier to playback sound or can either of those feathers do that on their own? Looking into audio playback I see the prop-maker and music maker feather wings as options, both look very interesting. Any information is greatly appreciated.
Check on the Adafruit site on the tutorials, there are a ton of them and you probably will find audio-related under their learn system.
Direct sound output will have a very limited gain limit and is usually paired with an I2S amplifier. If you want to listen to the music with an appreciable volume an amplifer is recommended. I think the prop-maker rp2040 has an amplifier built into the board which is why it's an excellent board for props with audio.
anyone ever seen one of these things before
i just ordered on
it looks so cool
£11.59
on aliexpress
has an esp32-wroom-32E and an rp2040
on it
for anyone curious enough
ooooooo i wonder if you like make a bridge between one of the RP pins and the esp32 pins you could talk between them
using like I2C or something
that would be super neat
i cant wait for it to come now 
comes in 7 days

Lol
hardcapture of ax3 is complete
why are ESP32 Dev Modules so awkward to put on a breadboard 
too big for going inbetween the gap
too small to connect 2 boards together with both power connectors
too big to connect 2 boards with one power connector
imma design an ESP breadboard in fusion
im so mad at this
Some people have been known to split breadboards to accommodate wider boards like this. https://forum.fritzing.org/t/part-for-breadboard-with-variable-spacing/12776
Hello, Anyone got part for 830-point and 400-point breadboard with variable spacing? I explain my problem: my dev board is too large to fit correctly into the breadboard, so I cut it into two parts and then inserted the dev board. See the picture below. If no, how to modify the existing breadboard parts? regards, Michel
I have not been on here for a long time, and have not done any programming ever since. I was wondering if anyone can recommend me a components for motion sensor with light and sound. Basically I want to program an esp32 when triggered, the lights come on and a sound is played. 🙂 I appreciate the help as always.
*note: was very sick spent days in the hospital ever since.
Motion sensors for movement are typically done with PIR sensors https://www.adafruit.com/product/189
If you want an easy board to work with designed for light & sound I recommend the Adafruit Prop-Maker Feather. https://www.adafruit.com/product/5768
The Adafruit Feather series gives you lots of options for a small, portable, rechargeable microcontroller board. By picking a feather and stacking on a FeatherWing you can create advanced ...
what the heck is breaking on discord, on windows discord in the help-with-circuitpython I see my self as Xarnlen but after updating linux Discord in that particular channel it's now X... instead of Xarnlen and if fact everyone is now like that but only in that channel
crap now it's showing here
stupid Discord to assume streamer mode
I fixed it after I ranted
did you disable the new discord opt-in for them to record all your audio and sell it
they must not be doing well financially if they're this desperate
Did not even see a opt in option for audio
it was an opt-out for me. check your preferences to make sure it’s not turned on if you didn’t mean it to be
YOOOO WTH
yes but i let the autism take over and i've printed a whole mf enclosure for boards with a custom fit piece to accomodate the gap between an ESP to keep it rigid 
What do you recommend the best place to get geophone sensors
Or a similar sensor that does the same things as a geophone SM-24 or maybe a different model.
I've found this device here that is the SM-24 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11744 but I am wondering what other comparables that there are. As I have found nothing, but I saw a demonstration the other day using a similar device that I think will help me with my project prototype. However, I don't want to be stuck using a part that I cannot get.
As always, "best" depends on what you're optimzing for. If you want a mix of quality and price, Seis Tech and Sercel have some nice offerings. If you're looking for basic sensors at a low price, you can find LGT-20D geophones on eBay from several sellers.
Cool Thanks this looks like exactly what I need here https://www.seis-tech.com/3d-geophone/ but looks like I am going to have to order from China and they have no listed price. They also have hydrophones which actually might help as well because from what it looks like a hydrophone is designed to be underwater and underground. Guess I am going to have to figure out which one works better. As I am up here in Vermont where we have been experiencing devastating flooding, so I want to create a device that we can set up in various places where underground water sources are discharging large volumes of water from one water table to the next.
Or maybe there is a better device that can be used, that can be used for finding ground water. I was going to call the water dowsers association, but for some reason I think we need something more accurate than a couple of copper rods. It seems that those systems require to much magic that isn't useful in real world applications
The Desk of Ladyada - A Low Power Mystery! https://youtu.be/5SxjR5PiixE
Working on ItsyBitsy ESP32 prototypes, testing pin functionality and connectivity to Adafruit.io. We encounter high power draw issues during low power tests, using 170uA instead of the expected less than 70uA. Identifying and resolving these design problems, ultimately achieving a deep sleep power draw of 10uA. successfully test a NeoPixel to RG...
Rewinding is useful, because LIVE! (if you click in, you don't get the start of it, at least for the moment)
Enjoy the normal video that acts like a normal video now.
its on x as well seem to work, but digikey doesn't have a huge selection of geophones unless they are called something else.
I needed a place to hang coats.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/273509180747415555/1198835526141223042/PXL_20240122_034016164.MP.jpg
Maybe a dumb question but do the neopixel LED rings also exist in a more rectangular shape?
You can join the ends together to make it a rectangle if you want. They are chainable.
The neopixel rings are also chainable but they wouldn't be able to make rectangle shape.
ah cool - thanks!
Ah yes, squaring the circle rears its ugly head again
Hi, just have a Question for fun, why are you here, is this your Job or your Hobby, are you doing this for School, do you want to learn it, or whatever else?
hobby, most definitely -- but i'm applying everything i've learned about programming to it, which makes it even more fun for me
Yeah, I want to learn it a little bit, but mostly just having fun. (And being stressed sometimes by errors, but anyways)
errors are more interesting than when it works right the first time 😈
Maybe we can convince some of the devs, that the board library should raise some random errors at first, when the microcontroller gets booted up the first time, that dont even make sense. 
Hobby only, and CircuitPython for about a year now, I learned Arduino 10 years ago and did a LOT with Ard UNTIL CP came along thank goodness...
What are you guys think ground penetrating radar. What Arduino would you all choose? What would you just jump to raspberries?
I'll be researching and making custom strings for musical instruments. If you think you have a special need (an instrument that is not standard size, you need less tension because of a disability, you want more tension because you need to be louder in an acoustic environment like an orchestra, etc) let me know and I'll try to build something for you. @sick adder told that they wanted to know a bit more of this.
So let me introduce to you folks, one of my all time heroes. I'll guess I should show this in S&T at some point. Dr Carleen Hutchins. Jump to the third page of the pdf (page number 12) were you can see here building +500 instruments in her kitchen.
She is an luthier from the US that took the scientific approach to building instruments, and not only developed many improvements to tradicional luthierie but she also used science to create a family of instruments that are exactly like a violín, but with tonal ranges that cover of a piano (see the drawing in page 14).
This family of violins was much appreciated in her time, but very sadly they are being forgotten in modern times. The only group in existence that plays them is called the Hutchins Consort, I urge you to find them an try to go to a concert. Or at least try to listen to their version of "Adagio for strings" which IMO is much better than what any quartet can do.
Since it's a custom size of strings, one of the big bad string companies just bought the last maker of strings in this size so they could be extant instrument if they run out of their current stock of strings, and this is not acceptable for me. So I will be researching and building a tiny CNC for violin strings at first but I have to cover the complete range of sizes (and tensions).
So yeah, if you want to become a beta tester, ping me on the side. It could be a guitar, bass, sarod, double bass, cello, viola, whatever. I have to cover all of the sizes, so I will get to your size sooner or later.
@proven juniper I'm a vocal musician so it's all moot for me but I love learning about stuff like this.
Yeah, she was amazing. She did stuff that Stradivarius could not. But because she was a woman her story is mostly forgotten. In those times there we almost no female luthiers, and "tradicional" luthiers don't like to mix science with their craft.
This is my silver violin string vacuum enclosure. Could possibly use some custom oscillators for sure. Different size magnets in the tip. Help me tune from outside the globe by adding more magnets.
My first Arduino code was the motor controller for the antenna. Now I can manifest St. Elmo's fire AC generator lamp with Caduceus coil step wave oscillator Townsend avalanche electrostatic accumulator.
Allowing for the visualization of standing waves between the ionosphere and ground Schumann resonance powered device.
Most of the time, it's been a hobby, but for a few periods during my life, it was a job too
Which channel would be the correct one to ask a question about the adafruit nRF52840 feather express Bluefruit API?
depends what you want to do with it / in what programming language
but the general channels are #general-chat / #general-tech and #help-with-projects for bigger things besides that channel is often used for multiple page explanations for a specific project
also this discord is US based so not many active users during the US night
Well I want to use it (with Arduino) to get BLE periodic advertising working but I am not sure if it even supports that. Which would be my question.
linux bro 🥲 welcome
The LED market at Chandni Chowk in Delhi India: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyberspace/53482962090/
Hi ! I Have some issues to run circuitpython code on my trinkey qt 2040 with the atecc608 module. If someone can help me.
hello
i need help w/ finding a dock station with a laptop and keyboard since there isnt im planning this I have a specific request that I believe aligns with your expertise.
I recently came across a video where someone hooked up a Raspberry Pi to a Motorola Atrix 4G laptop dock, and it got me thinking. I was wondering if you could create a laptop dock with the following features:
Type-C Monitor Connection: Include a Type-C monitor connection for compatibility with modern devices.
Kano Coding Kit-Inspired Keyboard Layout: I love the user-friendly design of the Kano Coding Kit's keyboard, especially with the touchpad underneath. If you could incorporate a similar layout, it would be fantastic.
Raspberry Pi Compatibility: Ensure that the dock seamlessly integrates with Raspberry Pi, allowing users to enjoy the flexibility of this computing platform.
I believe such a product would not only be a hit among tech enthusiasts but also offer a unique and practical solution. Your company's reputation for creating high-quality products makes you my top choice for this request.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on the feasibility of this idea and if it's something you'd consider pursuing. Thank you for your time and consideration.
the adafruit folks do not actively participate here -- you could try one of the email addresses listed on the main adafruit website
eh I misread that as a project they wanted to do initially not something they wanted adafruit to do
Personally I think Type-C Monitor Connection seems to imply compatibility with HDMI and that is a big pandora box if they actually process anything coming from hdmi
nice... I just signed up for trello to manage my electronics projects and it was hacked....
Yeah I have my own domain and use catch-all addresses and sign up for each service with a different email address/password manager which seems to work fairly well for me and at least keep password reuse/login reuse to a minimum
See https://www.adafruit.com/contact_us. Also some of these ideas might be up Pimoroni's alley.
SO for you snakes out there, is there a very easy way in python to make a dynamic page for managing bookmarks and run it as very lightweight webserver or should I just use node.js ?
I have tons of electronics links and I'd like to organize them better and make them easier to navigate, possibly group them as well so it open them all at once
Im on python 3.12 if it matters, bots says to use flask
Why not just use your browser bookmarks for that?
I'd agree with the suggestion of flask. I've knocked out a bunch of quick servers using it.
it works well with Jinja2 if you want to serve HTML from templates
because it doesnt do anything automated and doesn't do anymore in general (sick of searching bookmarks I barely remember) and it doesn't support group-launching of bookmarks. Like my main page would have a gridtables.net table for sure for use in jquery so I can sort various data in it
"Open all in tabs" is an option at least in firefox.
hmm it chrome too. Maybe until it's done I can better organize my bookmarks and do that
what is a templates in the context of python ? Like a premade dynamic html page like java servlets, ruby webpages, angular js views, etc ?
Hi all, I'm new to adafruit and was wondering if anyone could help answer a few questions before I buy anything. So i saw the lightsaber rp2040 video and new this is something I need. But I'm wondering what all I should get for my project. The video seems to have everything I need except when I go through the store some of the pictures are confusing. I think with the kit linked in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x51i4NLoT6w&t=1s I can get by but I want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff for the job. is there a construction video for this? I know I'll need to have an extended wire for my button to be fixed to my chest. Because the photo shows my Rig and that will mount to my back. So what wires do I need to buy to do that?(i'm new to wiring) also what light diffuser materials do you recommend?
Become a Jedi or Sith and build your own lightsaber with 3D printing and electronics from Adafruit.
Learn Guide
https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-rp2040/
Adafruit RP2040 PropMaker Feather
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5768
RG LED Button
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3350
Mini Skinny NeoPixel Strip
https://www.adafruit.com/produc...
Adafruit seems to sell the electronic parts, my customlightsaber sells the physical parts from what I can tell. FUll list of parts is here: https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-rp2040/
Yeah, basically a page with the usual elements, with expressions in it that are run to fill in the information that's being handed off from the code.
For the wires, since they'll need to flex, you'll want some stranded wire. If you want particularly flexible wire, there is silicone insulated wire available that's really floppy. My favourite light diffuser material is the Lee Lighting company's "Zircon" LED diffusion material. It's normally used in things like set building, so it's available from stage and screen suppliers.
The most expensive part of my project right now is the enclosure. No "lid", just the bottom. I need a 10"X4"X2.5" with 6 screw points(i can settle with 4)
I have googled many places and havent found ot yet. So, also, any places that might produce one-offs??
Many outfits will mill, laser cut, or water jet cut panels for you.
Dont need panels...
What do you need for "just the bottom"?
I have a shipping question - what's the best venue for that?
For Adafruit questions, it's recommended to use their contact page at https://www.adafruit.com/contact_us - most of us here are volunteers
Already did. Thanks
OK. Is there an "easy" way to add an EYESPI connector to Feather, such as on a Doubler? I've looked and there isn't a Feather Wing EYESPI connector. I have several breakouts on breadboards connected to TFT's with the EYESPI connector, but don't want to wire up another feather on a bboard with the breakout - this is certainly doable, just a pain. Thanks. Am I missing something?
i've had pretty good luck with art-board for non-metal enclosures -- depending on how sturdy it needs to be, you can use trimmed duct-tape or similar to hold it together; for sturdier applications, use glue-blocks along the joints
I should add more context, its a product prototype. It cant be 3d printed nor taped together. Although, that is reminiscent of the days at M.I.T. with the Tech Model Railroad club, I need to be able to show as a final product...metal or plastic is irrelevant. The front panel is being constructed of Aluminum and PC
ah -- well, my only other thought would be something that kinda-sorta may mimic what you're looking for in a final product is glued acrylic panels
Hello All! I was hoping that someone can help me here I'm working on a project and using Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2. I'm looking to get a screen, I found this one that seems like it will work perfectly with the uC I have https://www.adafruit.com/product/4650 since I saw them use it with the temp sensor in the uC datasheet. I want to show ECG graphs on the display but I'm afried that it won't be able to show it very well. Do you guys have any other suggestions for a display I could use that isn't bigger than 15x10x5 cm?
A Feather board without ambition is a Feather board without FeatherWings! This is the FeatherWing 128x64 OLED: it adds a gorgeous 128x64 monochrome OLED plus 3 user buttons ...
I dont have any, but I guess you are gonna get better help in #help-with-hw-design
You're right XD Thank you:)!
Of course
@urban arrow there are a couple of 3rd party ‘wings on github… i vaguely recall maybe one in dev on one of the adafruit streams but i could be mistaken (and those previews are never guaranteed to become products)
Hi, I just purchased this product: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3201 I would like to use it as an Ethernet shield for my ESP32, as described here: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-wiz5500-wiznet-ethernet-featherwing/usage
However, I don't understand how to wire it. Is it possible to get some help?
I setup the MISO, MOSI, SCK, GND and 3.3V pins and the CS on the pin 33 of the Esp but still not able to find the hardware
I am not really sure what you mean with not being able to find the hardware
It's the error output while running the program from the Examples > Ethernet > WebClient
weird concept, probably been done before but would it be odd to attach vcc, ground and some I2C pins onto magnets then build a PCB and 3D print a case that will connect to said magnets and then create magnetic hotswap sensors / extra boards for something im working on
or is there a better way or a more sensible way
idk
there are learning kits that build entire electronic circuits that way, so i don't see why not, as long as the contacts are good
Ah! Thanks a million. Now before I pull the trigger not sure about needed materials but: I’m getting 1. adafruit rp2040 prop maker feather with i2s audio amplifier 2. rugged metal push button- 16mm 6v RGB momentary 3. Mini skinny neopixel digital RGB LED - 144led/m -1m white 4. Lithium ion battery. Is this all I need to get? Stranded wire will do for me I have some and it will be reinforced by a housing and tube along a strap over my shoulder. Seeing as this is about $100 through adafruit I feel like it’s too good to be true. Especially being a newbie to this
I can't be sure, but it seems like you've covered the basics.
missing the oval speaker
Lightsaber Prop-Maker RP2040 Learn Guide
https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-rp2040/
Adafruit RP2040 PropMaker Feather
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5768
RG LED Button
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3350
Mini Skinny NeoPixel Strip
https://www.adafruit.com/product/2969
Mini oval speaker
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3923
2200mah Battery
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1781
Make sure you get the battery from Adafruit as it's polarity matched to the feather. If you get the lipo from Amazon there's a chance it might be reverse polarity and you could fry your feather. There are warnings about this all over Adafruit's site because it's a common occurance.
I think you need the makealightsaber stuff. I understand you have a casing but you dont have the reflective plastic housing for it or the adapter for the plastic housing
just finished part of my coding project....made real progress with a little help from Cursor AI
this is how it ended tho
GIGO
hi , i made a 3s 18650 Panasonic battery pack , by the specs it has a capacity of 3350mah & im using it to power a led strip which draws 900ma at peak
it should last at least 4 to 5 hours but it gets fully discharged at 2&half hours is the battery bad ?
What BMS do you use? For 12v, you usually need 4s instead of 3s unless it is LifePo4. And as far as I know, there is no LifePo4 cell by Panasonic. If you are not sure about what I’m talking about, I suggest you to learn about lithium ion battery at first.
I tell ya, neurodivergence is really fascinating. A neurotypical person might listen to a single song a few times in a row and be done with it for a while, meanwhile a neurodivergent person might listen to a song on repeat for hours, sometimes days on end and not be tired of it because that particular song just happens to stoke the dopamine fires.
idk about lifepo4 batteries but a fully charged li ion battery would be 4.2v & by making it into a 4s pack it would reach 16.8v which is far above what i need
Typically you rate battery voltage based on nominal voltage rather than peak voltage
Typical Li-ion have a nominal voltage of 3.7V, a 4S pack would then only be 14.8V based on nominal voltage
hmm but wouldn't that mess up the circuit or whatever you're trying to make ?
Lead acid batteries in cars for instance are typically 12V but they can have a peak voltage of ~14V
If you’re worried about ruining the circuit, you can add a down regulator in series to your main circuit
& also at the nominal voltage it wouldn't have the full capacity
That’s not really a huge concern.
but converting is inefficient am i right
Depends, you can get 95% efficiency on buck/boost converters
well in my case it is important bcz im making a lamp
There’s always going to be some loss of efficiency anyway as 4S packets tend to have weird degradation in capacity over time anyway
Personally, I’d use parallel packs and boost to the voltage you need
I've tried 1s 7000mAh parallel boosting it to 12v but it doesn't last long
I don’t think you’re gonna see huge improvements using series packs
bcz of boosting heat
I could be wrong, but you’re gonna have efficiency loss anyway going higher to lower and lower to higher.
the thing is I want it to last as long as possible, ive managed to get 5.5hours with a 3s 3400mAh pack vs 1.5 hours 1s 7000mAh boosted pack
There are also high efficiency boost converters. But the biggest issue you will run into either way is heat loss due to high current draw
3s 3400mAh is going to be like 15000Wh
I take that back, probably much higher
yeah "heat" is a big problem since it's mounted on a PLA body & don't want to have hot stuff near the battery
Lights are just heaters
You’re going to want to use something more heat resistant than PLA, probably PETG
ngl i thought working with batteries gonna be easy but it's a rabbit hole
Batteries are easy at 1S level. You run into largely complex issues powering from larger packs
the led strip itself isn't my concern since it's getting glued on a metal rim & i don't have any other choices with the body material since the client is printing them in pla
And considering batteries are really dangerous, a lot of extra caution has to be practiced
each can be a c4 lol
Especially using series/parallel packs
C4 batteries probably would be a good safe bet
Then you don’t have to worry about charging
Improper charging of Li-ion batteries is a scary thing
funny enough i had a 1s bms laying around & when i connected it to the battery it started smoking
& boy i was panicking
😳
good thing it didn't explode
I’d say, batteries are scary
Probably one reason I’m hesitant to buy an electric vehicle
imagine an ev malfunctioning
lithium polymers are safer bet tbh
Firefighters have talked about how they have to pull electric vehicles that catch fire into pools for well over a week because of how long the lithium can burn for
The tech has matured a lot over the last decade. But I’m still hesitant
I've heard about ammonia based engines like wth is that
one crash & you will be dead
Lithium iron phosphate is safer yet
ic
Liquid Silicone isn't a bio hazard right? On the box nothing is written about, on the net, I find contradictory things
well wdym by liquid silicone? as in sealant or mold making silicone
you shouldn't touch either one with bare hand & use them in a well ventilated area
it's advisd to wear a mask depending on the silicone type you're working with
Mold, there is not written anything usefull on what's there, besides mixing portions
well as I've said for RTV2 silicone you need general PPE equipment
a pair of gloves & safety glasses to protect your eyes also air ventilation is necessary
hello
where can I ask for help regarding a site bug on adafruit keeping me from ordering
fixed when I logged out and logged in
nvm
ARM manufactured their cortex m0 onto flexible plastic like an OLED, and it just works..?
Seems exclusive to a prototype and a research paper for now, but idk seems cool
I have been in project purgatory the last week or so. I'm attempting to build my first drone and I'm apprehensive about cutting wires and soldering it up because idk if I'll be able to do it without messing it up. I'm just gonna have to make my attempt and hope for the best because the alternative is having a bunch of drone parts that don't do anything.
You will mess up, you will break something, probably at least 10-20% of the drone prices get over it as soon as possible
Even mechanics for large vehicles and environment controlled factories loses parts worth tens of thousands despites all the procedures, training and reminders in the world
Good thing my drone is fairly cheap lol
There is an rc field nearby and some friendly people that live nearby that can help me once I have it assembled. I worry about stupid things and let them delay me
Each thing that goes right, you learn something. Each thing that goes wrong, you learn A LOT.
Hopefully I don't learn that I can't solder pads that small. I have a little bit of a tremor and I would be sad if I was unable to do it.
post close up pictures of your soldering job and we'll let you know if there might be a problem or not. posting pictures of your soldering can be very helpful in learning how to solder too. i've done it on many occasions and people have spotted issues that i didn't realize.
for example once i posted a close up of my soldering because i couldn't figure out why a board wasn't working correctly. someone noticed that i was soldering on an ESP32-S2 and i thought it was an ESP32-S3. i'd loaded the wrong version of circuit python even though i had the board sitting in my hand and didn't notice it was the wrong board.
these things happen to everyone
Ok, tomorrow I'm gonna try and do it. I'm not looking for perfect as long as it will work I'll be happy because as it is my first drone it will most likely fall victim to my inexperience
When you go too far to power your arduino:
hey guys, for this black led acrylic, (https://www.adafruit.com/product/4594), is there a way to get a larger size or to DIY it?
I'm not sure where they get it, but I'm guessing it's something like this https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/black_led_sheet/668, it's available up to 48x94"
Or if you don't need rigidity, the Lee "Zircon" line of LED diffusing material works quite well
As far as soldering goes, I'm halfway decent (even tho I hate soldering), but for me the most difficult painful process is the stacking headers with the long pins. Done it several times and usually manage to mess up something and it turns out ugly. So far they have worked when I'm done (a good thing). I have 2 Airlift shields on Metros with a TFT shield on top.
coolo
Well, I was able to get the vtx connection soldered. It took 3 attempts to get them all attached. It doesn't really look good but the smoke stopper indicated it is ok. I also realized I have the wrong gps so now I gotta wait for that.
I am looking forward to the day I can get a robot that can solder for me
It works so far, just 20 minutes of frustration and that was it.
Looks good. Well done.
Now I got 2 receivers, camera and GPS to go. I'm feeling better about it. Just gotta take my time, relax and refine my technique.
i cant even get the mf esp to upload
something is going on with my pc i think cause none of my esps do
with any of the cables
hello, I was wondering if anyone has had any luck assigning the default IP for AP mode in the pico using micropython
it looks like it's glitched out
tldr it is always 192.168.4.1
@sudden basin is the wlan.ifconfig after the wlan.init?
yes
I've found some other bug reports for this, it seems like the ifconfig isn't making it down to the lower level WiFi radio for this one. someone suggested using "CYW43_DEFAULT_IP_AP_ADDRESS" but I think that's a layer below python?
this solution did not work for me
Thanks for your reply @Doug27394, I have been through all the options and nil success. Original reply deleted. Conclusions I have come to: DHCP assignment of IP addresses is flawed, connecting devices need to use static addresses. The interface always starts up with 192.168.4.1 but can be changed and works with the change. Setting of the SS...
Hi, not sure if this is the right group to post to for this but I'm having difficulty programming the Bluefruit LE Sniffer to use with Wireshark and would appreciate any help. I'm a complete novice so apologies in advance for sounding like a know-nothing!
I'm trying to use the Programming Tool via the nRF Connect Desktop Tool to add the relevant .hex file to the Sniffer but I'm unable to get it in MCUBoot/bootloader mode and I then get the error "Error: Failed with exit code 1. One or more program tasks failed. Message: Failed, No matching plugin found for operations to execute."
If anyone can help, I'll be grateful!
thanks for any help btw.
@sudden basin I haven't done it in micropython, but may load up and see. CircuitPython works fine, uses the same low-level driver essentially. What board are you using?
there are various learn guides and examples... for static IP with AP: https://github.com/adafruit/circuitpython/pull/7976
ipv4 = ipaddress.IPv4Address("192.168.251.2")
netmask = ipaddress.IPv4Address("255.255.255.0")
gateway = ipaddress.IPv4Address("192.168.251.1")
wifi.radio.start_ap("Bob", "YourUncle") wifi.radio.set_ipv4_address_ap(ipv4=ipv4, netmask=netmask, gateway=gateway)
wifi.radio.ipv4_address_ap
thank you, I'll try this with circuit
@sudden basin (small quirk that since the static address is set up after the AP is started, there is a tiny interval where the AP will have the default IP)
not sure if this is canonical, but I got this to work:```py
import machine
import network
import time
IP = "192.168.251.2"
SUBNET = "255.255.255.0"
GATEWAY = "192.168.251.1"
DNS = "0.0.0.0"
AP_SSID = "Bob"
AP_PASSWORD = "YourUncle"
wlan = network.WLAN(network.AP_IF)
wlan.active(False)
wlan.config(ssid=AP_SSID, password=AP_PASSWORD)
wlan.ifconfig((IP, SUBNET, GATEWAY, DNS))
wlan.active(True)
(board comes up as AP by default, so de-activate it then change config, then re-activate it)
unfortunatley it's still showing up as hosting at 192.168.4.1 :/
def access_point(ssid, password): #Making wifi server
ap = network.WLAN(network.AP_IF) #makes wlan object, configures for access point mode
ap.active(False)
ap.config(ssid=ssid, password=password) #passes function vars ssid and password to ap.config, tldr sets wireless name and password
ap.ifconfig(('192.168.33.1', '255.255.255.0', '192.168.1.1', '8.8.8.8')) #manually setting IP address info - this is broken for some reason
ap.active(True) # enables web server after inital config
while ap.active() == False: time.sleep(0.1) #this gives some time for the WP to boot up```
even when I run your identical code copied it still is pulling 4.1
from reading this
i cant tell if there is a connection between the rp2040 and the esp32 on this mf board
it's so weirdly worded
it will falsely report from network.config the settings but it's not actually changing addresses
im deadass about to solder a wire between the I2C pins
can you please confirm that when you connect a client it is actually in the .251 subnet?
@sudden basin I think the IP, gateway, and subnet are inconsistent: with a netmask of 255.255.255.0, the 192.168.33.1 IP and 192.168.1.1 gateway won't be on the same subnet
(also not sure what effect putting a DNS there has unless the PicoW is acting as a router or something)
oh oops I messed up basic networking lol
however, your example code did not work either
also a WAP is it's own gateway? unless you're attaching a router
maybe I should leave the other fields blank and just assign IP?
I don't know where to find documentation on this function
it's similar in many environments, you can set the IP and gateway the same, then the netmask determines how big the subnet is... 255.255.255.0 allows 256 IP addresses 192.168.4.1 - 192.168.4.255
(still messing with the micropython code, not able to connect at all...)
@sudden basin yeah, there is something subtle going on, I connect but get the default range, not the an address in the range being shown by ifconfig
that's what i found, too. some glitch or oversight
there could be some sequence that makes it work, but I didn't find it
could i ask a more broad /theory question? Is asyncio / uasyncio a good method to explore for handling multiple socket connections?
tldr, only one client can access my web server. I need to work around the blocking of the socket.accept and handle data being sent to mutliple places
async can be generally useful for handling asynchronous events or events on different intervals, even if some of the underlying stuff is blocking ...there is typically some level of buffering in low-level socket code
@sudden basin I did a circuitpython async tcp socket thing (it cheats a little though) https://github.com/anecdata/Socket/blob/main/examples/tcp_server_CircuitPython_NATIVE_async.py
circuitpython has some stuff under developmnent I think, but it's cooperative multitasking... micropython may have more mature facilities for doing this with sockets
socket count is limited though
i wonder if one core can handle socket connections, and the other core can send out the html payload
I was looking around all my stuff for a "temporary" power solution for a QtPy SAMD51 running a neopixel strip. No spare wall plug to USB adapters...
I have some old Arduino boards (most unused now) with perfectly good 5V outputs from barrel jack input, so, Voila! Arduino Pro Mini.
Hey, I saw this video apparently posted officially by Adafruit:
https://youtu.be/L1s47yvN5oY?feature=shared
I want one. Probably actually 5-10. Where can I buy them?!
We have a few gadgets around the house that, despite having a USB type C connector, do not abide by the USB C power delivery specification! They leave off or mis-connect the two 5.1K resistors required to tell a USB PD wall adapter that they want 5V 1A power, a common issue because the devices work fine with a USB A to C cable, and only Macbooks...
Please take my money 🤯😂
I can't find any reference to this on the Adafruit website
i’ve made something like this out of a pair of USB-C breakouts
I was thinking a quick hack might be two of the Adafruit 4090s with a breadboard
But how to connect the circuit, just match the pins as named? I'm not familiar with the USB spec.
How would one discuss a discovered security vulnerability on a website to the main office of a store in person?
Write them an email and request a phone call or teleconference. Most businesses at least have a cyber security consultant you can ask to speak with. Showing up in person isn't necessary and for security reasons might not be wanted. A teleconference meeting seems more appropriate as an initial approach. If they deem the vulnerability severe enough to want an in person meeting that would be up to them not you. That's my personal opinion.
I was planning to write them an email. But at the same time I'm going to that store to get something so I might as well just tell them there, if that makes sense?
I toke some time reading on how to report a vulnerability. Seems like there's a lot of risk from the reporters side (being falsely accused of malicious intent, legal actions, etc).
An article suggested to even get in touch with a lawyer in case things go south. Though I guess it depends on the severity as you mentioned...
In the governments site where I'm from. I think I can report it through there, but I'm a bit concerned about my own safety.
Any advice?
i can smell magic smoke but i cant find the magic smoke
it smells like burned transistor
That's when a thermal camera is handy
can this work with 4 clients?
i’m not sure about micropython, and it may depend on how the sockets are used… Some comments on circuitpython socket count on PicoW: https://github.com/adafruit/circuitpython/issues/7543 & https://github.com/adafruit/circuitpython/issues/8363 (last comment in second link indicates four works on micropython)
If they have social media i would tell you found and you want to talk with someone related to cyber security in a public post that protect you if they take it the wrong qay / accuse you of blackmailing them
Saw someone do that with the CIA on twitter and they are still alive so
Hey since I just used this again yesterday, thought I'd share this that somebody nicely told me about some time ago.
they are for programming the micrcontroller
They only have an email. Is it safe to use a personal email?
Anyone know where these can be obtained? 🤯😂
What even is it? USB-C F-F with pull resistors
Precisely. Someone to fix the broken hardware that only charges using an A to C cable at 500mA
Something*
Theoretically it should show those things to charge at 3A instead of 500mA
I suppose I could build one using two usb-c breakout boards on a breadboard, but that's kind of unwieldy
The one in the video is small & compact and won't break as easily
I ... don't see how that would actually work
Maybe this is my lack of ee experience speaking. But I thought hardware like this could be fixed by installing 5.1K pull down resistors.
It even says that's the purpose of the board in the YouTube video
Only if the charger supports it. I think USB-A is a red herring.
Yeah, I can get supported chargers from many places on Amazon
Ah, I just saw the video posted here which was just a 3D rendering and background FX
Yeah pretty much. I was hoping to actually build one of those and I found the video and I was like whoa!
Heh, I wouldn't plug any equipment I cared about into a charger from amazon 
Well I have some decent ones from anker as well
I guess you're saying you want to charge a device that doesn't have the resistors from a charger that supports fast charger?
Exactly
That seems like a recipe for a fire
Really. Only at 3A?
If the device's circuitry is designed to handle 500mA and expects the charger to limit the current for it? Yup.
It's just a battery pack. 😭
That's probably okay, presumably the input goes to a current limited charging circuit. It may not draw more than 500mA even if it's available
pretty durn chill, thanks
if using arduino: #help-with-arduino
if using circuitpython: #help-with-circuitpython
if general: #help-with-projects
I think a lot of the time last year that I decided to make a partial asynchronous one wire protocol for an interview.
it's a bit janky, and designed for Arduino
Never fully tried it out as I lost a little bit of interest in it after I didn't get the role I was trying to get
It's sportsball time! AFC & NFC conference championship games today. 🏈
If you're in the US be careful on the roads tonight. One of the biggest days of the year for drunk drivers. Be safe out there.
Anyway, congrats to the chiefs
whats a super bowl? is that like a american version of the grey cup?
Yes
Super Bowl is a American football championship game
Desk of Ladyada - Super Switchy Schematics https://youtu.be/nPD24IKqXz4
Explore analog switch designs using ADG728, ADG729, MAX4544 for varying voltage/control needs, and a breakout for LTC4316 to manage I2C address translation - and search for a 12V-capable SPDT analog switch for general use.
Well you called it before the game even started. Impressive.
It’s kind of a funny conspiracy going around about the nfl being scripted lol
I’ve been having fun with it 😂
Yeah I've seen the logo theory everywhere today lol
Oh wait, that's right the Ravens didn't win so the logo theory is done.
Thank you so much
If anyone's interested, this is an Airlift shield on Metro RP2040, with TFT touch shield up top. Since both shields use conflicting D10, I had asked about this conundrum in discord and got advice (Thanks anecdata) it's possible to cut the D10 pad trace under the Airlift. I did this, and soldered 2 jumper wires.
One jumper is from the ESP32 CS pin, which was D10, now jumped to D3. The other TFT D10 CS pin jumped to D2. See pics.
Attached is a simple test program that gets time from AIO.
hi, i need help setting up Adafruit MAX98357 and Adafruit I2S MEMS, as both of them are supposed to go on the same gpio pins
Hmm, I think the mic is an I2S source (data comes from it) and the amplifier is an I2S receiver (data goes to it)
I don't buy from amazon,
I have some gift cards,
I have no idea what to get
Everything is really expensive / sucks
Apparently you can sell gift cards for more than face value at some sites. I had a similar problem a while back, and bought a "titanium" spectrum tube for about 10% the going price. It turned out to be mislabled, it was a much more expensive and desirable thallium spectrum tube.
Another possibility is buy a bunch of 1-cent USB chargers and do things like https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2394
Here I've got 60 USB charger power supplies wired in parallel, just to see what happens.
My favourite cheat for those switches is to choose any two diagonal pins (1 and 4 or 2 and 3).
That's just it, there's no trial and error. Either pair of diagonal pins will just work. Whereas pairs of adjacent pins does boil down to trial and error unless you know how that particular switch is wired internally.
Alternatively you can get out a multimeter and figure out the switch wiring. But I just use either pair of diagonal pins because that works without having to do extra checking.
schematic is here:
https://github.com/adafruit/TV-B-Gone-kit/blob/master/pcb/tvbgone3sch.png
it's actually a reset pin, not a trigger
The schematic also makes it clear why the diagonal pins trick works. Since it turns out that 2 and 1 are connected and 3 and 4 are connected, bridging 1 to 4 will close the switch and bridging 2 to 3 will too.
I was surprised from my recent stay at the hospital that there is so much electronics in hospitals now
and that the nurse kiosk now looks like cape canaveral
Most of the IT staff are now paid to monitor patient/security sensors and they know instantly if you go up from your bed/leave your room/go in bathroom/remove the spo02 thing etc
even elevators are in the loop apparently. A cowoker is a recent parent and told me the same, 3 sensors to have a baby and the nurse had to schedule it to even touch the baby
I'm working on a project to monitor the logging data from all that equipment and try to predict what will need service before it actually fails.
yea my patient monitor did costs 6000$ in my pocket that I had to sleep with (so huge resistance to weight and tearing cables out as well ) had lora and wifi apparently... had lot of connectors looked more like a portable PLC to me imho
It had to be explained to me because I didnt know since it wasnt like that in hospitals 30 years ago. I was told that everytime I remove the sp02 to be free of wires in my way to do my things when I woke up during the night they would get an alarm 10 seconds later and had to dispatch someone and possibly call an emergency team
After a friend of mine had surgery, things would start beeping every time they shifted their weight. I figured out where the silence button was, and would shut it up so the nurse could adjust everything.
It was important in my case because apparenty my body dont like to breathe with the anesthesics during the general anesthesia surgery and up to 24h after something else I didnt know
General anæsthesia often has effects like that
yeah it was my first time. I dreamed I was jack sparrow and did quests in the carribean 🤣
Sounds at least interesting
eh less interesting when I woke up with no idea what the heck was going on, waiting for a bed and being needled every 30 minutes during my stay...
and now I can barely walk because of the stitches/bandages/leftover pain but I seems to be recovering quickly
Very cool bed though once I was in my room but they costs over 9000$
I'd love to get a surgical lamp for my workbench
And like 40 controls in them like a tesla or a nascar, no idea a mattress could move in so many ways and I love the side fences to make sure I never fall off the bed / to modulariliry attach stuff to it kinda like picatenny rails or molle in other fields
The food containers seemed to be from the 1850s though
I didnt get to see the the surgery room much. Like I told them to make be able to make sleep because I have difficulty sleeping when Im not home and the last thing I remember is taking a breath throught a mask and I woke up
I don't get to either, but I've seen the lamps, they look really useful
I assume they are like dentists lamps or somethingg, ike those have cameras on them, with mangnifiers lamps, robotized (?) arm and tools holder
They're similar to dentist lamps, which are aimable and concentrate the light in a small area, but they're more powerful. The dentist said he'd save me a lamp when they upgraded but then forgot.
Im not saying my dentist lamp is like data in star trek but there seems to be some automation built-in especially when taking pictures/video. It seems to be able to tell which teeth is which / follow one when the dentist is doing something to keep it lighted
Ah, the ones I've seen are much simpler, just point them where you want the light.
panel / programming macro for the bed I was on apaprently (cant find the exact model for the bed but it was very similar):
Then another panel with the 3 positions controls at the center and a nurse button next to the pillow on each side inside the bed
They just added Air holes.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/979516653031284787/1201716717248860180/image.png
Shoulda drilled the battery too
That can be a little bit trickier, as you have to have more than one circuit agree on voltage levels (or use optoisolators). However, you may not have to, as you can just have the GPIO send the signal the switch does in a lot of cases.
You'd still have to have a common reference, and there could be other complicating factors. It's too late at night for me to pull open the schematic and figure it all out right now.
Then again, a Pico could probably replicate most of the functionality itself anyway
No, that wouldn't help. You might be able to have a GPIO control a transistor to pull the signal down.
Actually, I wonder how long one of these would last doing duty as a failed print grinder.
Im kinda confused why level shifter are needed when the in voltage > out voltage
like if we say >4.5V is 1 on 5V knowing says >3.1V is 1 on 3.3V cant we convert easily and just output a voltage like with analogwrite with a max of 3.3 V?
that's the problem with logic probe as wel not knowing which voltge they consider 1 which may be different from the board being tested
also a pin not being able to resist more than 3.V seems arbitrary when resistors or switches the same size can do 120V...
Like I doubt the metal evaporate when you put 5V instead of 3.3V...
voltage tolerance is very different for semiconductor chips than for mechanical switches
I was more thinking about resistors and capacitors that are smaler than most chips that do more than just logic gates
like if these can resists 50V @ 0.1A why cant the big chips next to it...
a tiny SMD resistor or capacitor is just one component. a chip has millions or even billions. and the chip package can sometimes be much bigger than the actual chip die
Also the materials are very different.
it's still an insolator thought and plastic even at this size can survive quite a lot of heat
The tiny diode junctions you are forward biasing, however, cannot.
chip designers pay for voltage tolerance in length (or effectively, area). if you want tiny chips, you have to run them at lower voltages
arent legged chips very ancient anyway and already way too big for the chip inside ?
Like they are still the same size as when they were in korean war electronics(most are 50()most dips, *op packages etc to 70 years old (transistors)) and if you take a dip temperature sensors it's like up to 16 legs and super long where as a much superior chip is like 2mmx2mm in QFN. I wish they remade it and used the extra space for more tolerance. Having to convert voltage and logic level annoys me so much I wish it was more plug and play... just convert the voltage/level shift yourself and leave me alone..
even 3.3V is a compromise for I/O purposes; many MCU cores run at 1.8V or even lower
The most hated words in the English language.
"Thank you for your patience."
Still waiting to ask a tax question to my IRA holder. ☹️
"Thank you for your patience" - who says I have any ? You are obviously not looking at me (foam at the mouth, white knuckles holding the phone, spitting like a cobra), want me to go to HQ to see how patient I am ?
I had to go to HQ before,. 4 hours wait , it would hang-up after 2 h for seemingly no reason (and not 2h exactly, just random)
I was able to see someone who usually took care of business accounts because they though I had waited long enough
my insurance company officially has that option as well
I will admit that sometimes there's not much of a wait on phone I just go because their armchairs are so cozy/comfortable and when the discussion is going to be over 15 minutes they have a complimentary coffee 🤣
I dislike being lodged between wanting to design a new board but also having 0 desire to actually start it. It’s such a tug of war
Heh, I want to design a new board, but am having trouble with software licensing
easy. just dress up the board in some frilly pants to rekindle that desire
so after the resounding success of my keycaps im now a billionaire and am starting a new project... selling kidneys
😛
ok no
i need to make a smart tech layout for a tiny house though and i realise i know nothing about zigbee or z wave.
What you need is Home Assistant, ZigBee and Zwave are just protocols for devices and the only thing you really need to know about them is ZigBee overlaps with Wi-Fi. Home Assistant is a lot of fun and can be used for useful automation as well as anything you can cook up.
I just revamped my post alarm alarm which is an automation based on my phones alarm time plus 10 minutes. If I don't get up and into the bathroom to trip the motion sensor by then this is designed to motivate me
thanks. mostly im wondering which one, shoult i exclusively used one or the other, or should i not care. Theres not really a whole lot in the house since it is so small. lights, HVAC, door bell, security, power metering. and then the entertainment system / network (pc, tv, few other bits).
this is actually sick
Just don't tell Bethesda, because they'd use it for microtransactions.
very nice is the thing at the center a rpi 4/5 with retro style keyboard/screen ?
😆 new overwatch controller just dropped
That's blizzard, another company that I refuse to do business with on ethical grounds.
there are too many games out there for me today and the search engines for them (android/steam) didnt keep up the pace
so it's too much effort to find one so I stopped buying them mostly
my friend was escorted from blizzard by security when they fired him. ;x
I once showed up to ubisoft HQ in Paris to asks them a question about splinter cell gameplay cause I was stuck (splinter cell chaos theory). Mostly as a dare from a friend though
no worries they still helped me but tons of security measures at it now because of me I guess (/s if not obvious)
haha
ubisoft seems to be ok. i have a number of friends that have been there for decades
in quebec and toronto
ea was bad for a while
Those are the other two that I avoid.
they are all bad it's part of being part of ESA just like MPAA for movies companies corrupt everything it touches
No, there are companies that I buy games from. Just not most of the AAA publishers.
their security is comical (in that its impossible to implement)
mpaa that is
and then lockdown happend and none of it mattered...
:x
anyhoo
MPAA didn't corrupt everything (although they did have some odd effects). I had a much greater antipathy toward Blockbuster, who made it impossible to get the original versions of many films on home video.
MPAA was an industry response to avoid government regulation.
well, on some sides. they do a lot of things that are unrelated to regulation
they wind up making movies way more expensive too
for no good reason
I have not noticed movies getting expensive, really. I burn most of my money on concessions.
anyhow. as for companies. name a company and i can find you a dozen angry ex employees. ha. i have a friend that literally hates every studio hes been it. he complained ILM was incompetent and disorganised... sooo, take it all with a grain of salt
some ARE bad though, like blizzard
i mean to produce
they demand a lot of bizzarre and unworkable IT solutions in studios that cost millions
and do nothing but slow down production
That is at variance with my understanding
its a relatively new things. 2017 or 2018 they started pushing it. no internet allowed in the studio, no phones, no outside email etc. but in most studios those things are required to actually do work for a good portion of staff
screening rooms and edits are locked down in the literal sense. special room for viewing. so if i need to view dailies i literally need to go into a locked room to look at it.. .then go back to my desk and hope i remember what it was?
its mental
and doesnt work
and then theres the cloud thing. all the software makers are pushing cloud everything and mpaa is trying to enforce no cloud
fun
haha
but like i said, then the pandemic broke it all.
Somehow I doubt it's MPAA as much as the studio management. Sony is notorious for their worries of leaks.
no, its specifically mpaa rules
Link?
my studio was pretty lazy
and then we had to clamp down
thats the latest
its changed a bid since the pandemic
"best practices"? "guidelines"? Sounds optional to me.
optional is a trigger word. you dont abide, you dont get work.
like movie theatre ratings. legally they mean nothing.... but they mean everything
If the studio doesn't abide, the studio doesn't get work? Um, studios are the source of work.
nooo
the source of work is say... marvel/disney. then you have 40 studios doing the actual work
including ILM of course which happens to be owned by disney.
anyhow, the point was that the mpaa sticks their fingers into EVERYTHING
I reaaaaaaallly wish I could get a decent function generator for messing-with/learning more analog design
but everything I find online just fits into literally one of these three categories:
seemingly too cheap to be useful, astronomically-priced for a hobby, or ancient and massive
Pi Pico can probably fake a function generator. :-)
Am I charging my lipo like this? The neo pixel is flashing green and white, but the charging indicator is on
The feathers don't charge while power is on correct?
As long as there is a battery plugged in and you're powering it via USB then yes it will automatically charge the battery. All feathers with a battery plug work that way.
It will charge the battery with about 4.2V. I've seen it go an absolute maximum of 4.23V but typically charges with 4.19V-4.20V
I have a circuit python device with a display that sits in front of my computer 24/7 for years that has a voltage display on it. I've become very accustomed to the charging voltage for the feather.
I'm not sure what the default behavior is for the Neopixel since I removed that a long time ago and my project is inside of an enclosure. I wouldn't pay attention to that. The CHG LED status is more important but you will likely find the CHG light rarely goes off as it will trickle charge the battery and keep it topped off continually.
The XR2206 chip does a decent job, but I'm not sure if the modern copies are as nice. Probably plenty fine for learning about analog design. If you want something a little more versatile: https://learn.adafruit.com/waveform-generator
The IT policies you are describing are a result of expensive leaks. Primarily leaks of unfinished superhero movie assets and entire cuts, mostly leaking from VFX houses.
It’s much more costly to have your summer tentpole on torrent sites before it’s out in theaters than it is to require your contractors to implement some security practices.
But in the end… it’s not the MPAA doing it, right? The big studio is the entity writing and enacting their own policies and the big studio is the entity checking that all their requirements are met, not the MPAA.
it is under the umbrella of mpaa
the big studios likely get together to influence the mpaa rules im sure
Can you embed a rtsp within an html page?
All I could find are deprecated solutions using deprecated vlc components, or stuff that require me to set up a dedicated webserver
anyone has an idea why art of electronics dont mention the capacitance that happens between parallel wires ?
or maybe Im not searcghing for the correct terms put I just perused the section on capacitors ?
tying to expain to relative why water destroys electronics even after it is dry
It's just residues that may short things up
everytime I dropped something in water accidently it was game over after that
well
Well actually water by itself is a bad conductor, but since you don't get pure water along, salts and other minerals make it conductive
Also it may be problematic if water gets within components
tap water with minerals can short electronics while they are running
but once dry, there shouldnt really be a problem
Wash it with ipa
Be wary that too much, may be also problematic
Like when I destroyed my old phone's display with ipa going inside it
a lot of the stuff i have from machines is lacquered
well ipa is an entirely different topic
But anyhow, I didn't get this part
the whole thing or ?
ok so maybe you don't know that two parallel wires acts as a capacitor with air being the isolator between them (or the board material on a pcb). Capacitor are exactly the same, two conductors separated by an isolator. That is usually a small effect but care must still be taken on pcb
What does it have with water damaging compents
when there is water on it or other residue it lower the isolation between thsoe parallel wires causing them to discharge faster and lowers the esr. and thus add more amps to the circuits I was looking for a citation from art of electronics
water have mineral salts in it making it ionic which stays even if you rub it - that will remove a lot of it but still spread the diluted salts all around
there are formulas to calculate that for wires closes to each other on breadboard, and for pcbs since it depends on the geometry of the wire so it's much more complicated but cant find it in art of electronics , parallel wires and capacitance between two wires didn't return any results
especially bad in audio circuits and near crystals because those needs very low capacitors and water is certainly going to change the crystal frequency as well with the same mechanism
you may be over thinking things
how am i mean't to put this clear case onto the pygamer with there beings spots of glue for to hold the screen in place in the way???
idk where to ask this, there are hundreds of help with channels
i just got the starter kit and im so lost on how these layers are meant to go on
SHOW and TELL 1/31/2024 https://youtu.be/Oaf2ldj3MIs
<@&617066238840930324> I'm stuck on what to do. I don't even know if this is the right role to ping for help with this thing
WE ARE LIVE! ASK AN ENGINEER! https://youtu.be/5Qf3d6D4k78
ASK AN ENGINEER 1/31/2024 LIVE!
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com
LIVE CHAT IS HERE! http://adafru.it/discord
Subscribe to Adafruit on YouTube: http://adafru.it/subscribe
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I've flown drones with worse blade tip damage than that. NASA should just send it.
Were your drones on Mars though...
On the one hand, Mars has thinner air. On the other hand, Mars has lower gravity. On the gripping hand, if the choice is to try it or give up, "try it" is always the better choice.
they didnt bring spare props to mars????
They shipped them via FedEx, who broke them, delivered them to Venus, dropped them in a volcano, then said they couldn't deliver them because nobody was home.
a rough guideline i learned once is that anything you deliver to low Earth orbit costs its weight in gold. Mars would be much more expensive
It has far surpassed it's original 5 flight 30 day mission. Who knows, maybe it can still fly, and they'd get another 3 years out of it and 72 more flights. A small 1 foot hover to check the logs wouldn't hurt.
Even if it did end up destroying it, if the other choice is to just let it sit there, why not?
If it were up to me, I would not even think of trying to fly Ingenuity again. I can enumerate reasons starting with wasting mission time and resources on fatally damaged hardware that has a vanishingly small chance of returning any useful results to the also vanishingly small but not zero risk of damaging the rover in the likely event of an uncontrolled descent.
when your drone crashes with bad rotors in apark, you go pick it up and whine about $6.. this is a very different prospect.
yeah, uncontrolled debris is a serious problem in spaceflight
Don't forget the acid clouds.
might be in that category of "we don't know what it will do and if it smacks into the rover, we'd look really stupid"
It's a significant distance away from the rover.
But, considering the fact that they intend to eventually recover Perseverance, they might be interested in recovering Ingenuity as well.
Oh, well, I see.
I hadn't seen this before posting that before.
https://www.space.com/nasa-mars-helicopter-ingenuity-tribute
But they won't fly it again.
Not sure if this is useful to anyone but I managed to get the Arduino IDE running on a Chromebook using a Linux VM. To do this, I had to:
- set up the Linux VM (obv)
- download the appimage from https://www.arduino.cc/en/software to my home directory
- set the permissions on the appimage to allow execution
- execute "sudo apt install python3-pip" in a linux shell
- execute "python3 -m pip install pyserial" in a linux shell
- run the appimage and set up my boards and libraries
Even so, it's a bit finicky about detecting the port the board is on. To get it to recognize that the port exists at all, I often have to unplug the board, shut down the Linux VM, start it back up, plug in the board, select "Connect to Linux", then start up the IDE.
Still, it works, at least for ESP32 board I'm using. Haven't tried anything else.
my tan
part of the problem is that the blades are literally just foam w/ a thin layer of carbon fiber, 4 feet long, and spin @ 2.9k RPM
I imagine they'd rip themselves apart if they were spun up again
but thats fun
great youtube content
get the slowmo guys on a ship to mars to film it
Hello! Is it possible to change the Dancing Cactus songs?
Probably? May have to put your own sound module in. There are vids of people changing the song on Big Mouth Billy Bass, which is a similar sort of unit.
I will research it, thanks
There are different types of dancing cacti. LadyAda did a tear down of one that mimics your voice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn7jXo6lbsg
I like the singing Bass fish
Does anyone have the custom image of RetroPie / Emulation Station for AdaBox 005? (Adafruit Joy Bonnet for Raspberry Pi Zero)
The link on learn.adafruit doesnt work, and I cannot find it online
some learn guides are taken from github it might be there somewhere
oh i thought you meant like a jpg type of image. seems like it's a .img file (pizerogamer.img) Seems it is due to multiple adafruit S3 amazon buckets no longer being available. It's not just that Adabox link that doesn't work. A lot of raspberry pi related content that was hosted there no longer has working links.
Someone from Adafruit will need to take a look into it. https://learn.adafruit.com/adabox005/step-2-burn-image-to-sd-card
I've reported it, someone will look into it.
Thanks a lot, appreciate it!
Searched online and the only place that was hosting "pizerogamer.img" was at that url. :/
I'm sure Adafruit has it backed up somewhere and can fix the links or point them to a new repository.
👋 Hey folks, I'm not new to Adafruit products but I am new to the Feather concept ... trying to build an MP3 player for the first time and not sure if I should go esp32 or feather... would absolutely love some advice
That's not an either/or choice, there are several ESP32 Feather boards available
I see, I guess I'm still at the don't know what I don't know phase of this project.
feather is a form factor. there are tons of feather MCU boards: ESP32, ESP32-S2, ESP32-S3, RP2040, SAMD51, etc.
there are a number of learn guide projects that may spur some ideas https://learn.adafruit.com/search?q=mp3
hand-in-hand with board choice is choice of development environment: Arduino, CircuitPython, etc.
Hello all and admins, I'm currently doing a project with the Myoware muscle sensor, versions 1 and 2, and I'd like to use the TRS configation for the electrode placement, can someone show me the setup on how to do so? Does the setup require the batteries? I also know you can attach multiple sensors to the TRS board of the myoware that has the Arduino footprint to be compatible. \
Hello all I was wondering if anyone has repurposed a vape before? I found one on the sidewalk and of course took it all apart. It is a RAZ CA6000 after researching and it has an O-LED screen as well as a USB C port. I was just curious what software it was running and if anyone had any luck getting it to display anything?
That's an awesome place to start... Thanks!
Adafruit currently carries the Official Raspberry Pi 27W PD Power Supply 5.1V 5A with USB C (https://www.adafruit.com/product/5814) in black (although it is out of stock). Does anyone know if Adafruit will carry the white version soon?
how should i power a teensy that controls an a4988 stepper driver and nema 17 stepper motor
Hello! Feel free to tell me I should go to a different channel, but adafruit used to sell mini thermal printers for use in projects, and it looks like that whole product line is discontinued. Does anyone know where I could get thermal printers that would work wiht circuitpython in the way the guides on the site suggest?
ESP32-S2 or S3 cannot play MP3 natively and classic ESP32 cannot run circuit python except in web workflow mode. If you want MP3 then go with anything RP2040 based like a Pi Pico or Prop-Maker RP2040 Feather. You can only use MP3 with an ESP32 if you include an MP3 decoder chip such as the one included with the "Music Maker" series of addons. https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=mp3
My current recommendation for MP3 projects is the Prop-Maker RP2040. https://www.adafruit.com/product/5768
The Adafruit Feather series gives you lots of options for a small, portable, rechargeable microcontroller board. By picking a feather and stacking on a FeatherWing you can create advanced ...
If you click on the drop down arrow you'll see the boards that support mp3. https://docs.circuitpython.org/en/latest/shared-bindings/audiomp3/index.html
You'll see they're all M4, NRF52840, RP2040, or iMX based boards.
That is of course only circuit python related. I have no idea about the compatibility if you intend to program with Arduino instead.
I'm looking to order a bunch of cheap electronics from AliExpress, does anyone have a list of interesting or useful stuff worth ordering? I have found a few but most are out of date.
order me a pizza
Because most Creality 3D printers are manufactured in China they have a slightly different v-slot aluminum extrusion design. It's the only place I've found where I can get longer lengths of 2040 extrusion that has a flat side like you'd find on vertical gantry extrusions. They host a nice selection of 3D printer replacement parts.
As for electronics most of the stuff there has issues, flaws, poorly designed PCB's, lack of or no documentation. There are some good things but nothing that has the thought put into it like Adafruit electronics. Most of it is disappointing but there are some things that are interesting. You can get a variety of treaded tank bases for RC projects. I suppose what you would find interesting is completely up to your interests.
You can also contact Lipo battery manufacturers there who can make you a custom sized battery in any size you need. I needed a very specific size and type to maximize the battery capacity for the cavity in my headset that was not publicly available. After a couple of messages back and forth with a manufacturer they made a new size just for me and added it to their catalog of sizes. That's the kind of thing you can't really do in the US without a huge bulk order. Now my wireless headset has double the battery life of the original design.
I didn't make a video on the 3000mah upgrade but I did accomplish it. The original battery that came with the headset was 1500mah. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8y11n_Foa4
I don't know about other printer sellers, but it looks like there is some leftover Adafruit stock on Mouser: https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Adafruit/600?qs=GURawfaeGuALMeutd5nmKA%3D%3D
Guy Dupont recently made a QR code reader to print resturant menus. He used this printer https://www.amazon.com/Maikrt-Embedded-Thermal-Printing-Commands/dp/B07PX9NYR3/
Follow me on Twi... X: https://twitter.com/gvy_dvpont
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/guy_dupont/
Hardware details: https://hackaday.io/project/193322-a-la-qrte-qr-code-menu-printer
Software source: https://github.com/dupontgu/a-la-qrte
Guy Dupont is a member of this community and his projects are always really neat.
His skill level is very advanced though and I'm not sure if he has step by step tutorials instead of video outlines. His project is also on hackaday but in outline format.
Got the 800 pc technics set in and yeah definitely knock off brand. Came in a box labeled "Brotex". Looks like they started out making neat lego accessory pieces and then ramped up to making entire sets of Technics compatible brick and gear sets. The quality and accuracy of the materials seems fine.
Though this is the first lego anything I've purchased since I was like 12. The gear sets to use with the TT motors interested me too much to pass up.
Working to break the mental break in terms of designing hardware. Found a board of mine that didn’t have all the nets routed. Got that done and sent off to oshpark
Same, getting back into PCB design. Sent one off which freed my mind to work on some PCB's I never finished or made mistakes on the first prototype.
As long as you don't have the PCB design software open it's kind of out of sight out of mind. Found myself doing the same with Fusion360 and Mu. Have to keep them open because it's far too easy to get distracted and pulled into another direction especially with all the new project ideas from hanging around here.
My big brain block has been just dealing with the emotions behind my hobby business doing good and then just flailing around not going anywhere. It was a bit of a blow to my confidence
Your designs are great. Just keep at it. The more boards you make the more choices you offer people. Do you think Adafruit would be as successful if they only had 10 boards in their store? They have over 600 boards, modules, breakouts, and accessories. It's not a matter of quality vs quantity. Having both certainly helps. My perspective is from that of a consumer. I don't know what it takes to run a store but I do know what I like seeing when I browse a store.
I’m mostly just trying to get back to making boards for me, not worrying about if it will sell or not
That's a good thing too. LadyAda makes a lot of things that she wants or needs and just so happens that others do too. It's been one of her design philosophies from the beginning. She's mentioned that many times.
Your IcyBlue is one of the most advanced Feathers I've ever seen but that's also a drawback as it's not beginner friendly. Some of the most popular products in Adafruits store are for absolute beginners. The easier something is to use the larger the demographic.
sure, I had plenty of stuff that was beginner friendly, but it's hard to compete with the scale of adafruit, sparkfun, pimoroni, etc..
At the end of the year they release a list of the most purchased products and most of the time the results surprise me. It's things like ground water sensors, breadboard wires, etc... If you're into business see what products are popular and figure out why. Adafruit is extremely good at figuring out what electronic designs people are looking for.
Everyone starts somewhere. Adafruit started with a toaster oven in their apartment...
so going for things that are a bit more niche tends to be better if you're trying to be stand out
but i'm not worried about it anymore
my shop has been closed for a while now
i'm just trying to do things for me these days
I hope you'll reconsider and reopen it someday. I think your designs are brilliant and you have tremendous talent.
I appreciate the vote of confidence
As for today, I am doing some programming on an nRF52811 feature I made over a year ago
I remember you talking about that one... and the new NRF chips that I still haven't seen anyone do something with.
I think it was NRF55 or something like that. Ohh it was the thread/matter licensing that prevented us from looking into it. nvm.
might be a bit before circuitpython gets the new nrf chips supported because they require zephyr to build
there was an effort to support zephyr at one point but I think Scott said there was some things that just never ended up happening
anyway, doing some uart string parsing
and using the string to toggle an LED 🙂
Going to figure out PWM with the nRF SDK and add a pulse command
nice. have you looked into some CAN modules for board to board communication? I'm interested in trying some CAN stuff out eventually.
2 ESP32-S3's and 2 CAN transceivers on 1 PCB interests me. Would be a nice way of forcing me to learn how to make them communicate over CAN.
I suppose each ESP32-S3 chip would need its own USB interface. Sounds like a fun problem to solve.
FOSDEM RetroComputing devroom is LIVE : https://live.fosdem.org/watch/ub5230 https://fosdem.org/2024/schedule/track/retrocomputing/ 🙂
Wow, current talk if from the owner of Olimex 🙂
Hey there good morning all! ....
So i am really new to all the lectronics stuff might need some friends ! 😄
We're friendly folks here who enjoy chatting about electronics and building things
and pies
i want pies!!
and also i never did nothing in electronics and about to jump into it.. and i'm dumb so
it will be a blast.. or spark what ever you choose
That's the thinking behind the name of SparkFun.com
just remember, when you let the magic smoke out, you'll probably have to re-order -- and NOBODY here has EVER done ANYTHING like that
lol
well i got a load of stuff and to much brain cell to kill so
i do gave a bread board and a sowdering kit.. but dint use none of it yet lol
Uh yeah #show-and-tell message
Never
Like really
Never happen
Ouch
Nasty
photographers are so violent.
they'll frame you, shoot you, blow you up and then hang you.
trade ya for my keycap business. 😛
so i am now ordering a tiny fire extinguisher! got it ! lol
hahahaha
i thought that was a new dev board or something. i googled tiny fire and got the fire department for the town of tiny
lol
(which is a few 100km from me)
so you have to understand i have big project but smaller brain... lol
and now i am wondering how long will it take forme to make an arm on my desk moving and answering my 8-ball questions... lol
Zoltan style?
yeah or i dint know
right now i am in the basic... making a LED light up from a breadboard
kind of deal yeah! 🙂
Lighting an LED is a good thing to start with
yup
overhead pic please. kinda hard to look at the rows
What voltage is that cell you're using?
led leads reversed? hard to see.
It looks like the cathode (flat side) is toward the negative supply, which would be correct
But if it's a 1.5V cell and a 2.2V LED, you might not get light out of it
Resistor looks like 68Ω which is probably a bit low
oh ... could be
that is the only resistor i have on hand ...lol
on the papper is said 1/4W 68R
if that helps...
If that's two cells in series, that would be about 3V. 3V (power supply) minus 2.2V (LED forward voltage) would be about 0.8V to drop across the resistor, and 0.8V would push about 12mA through 68 ohms, so that should be about right. However, I can't see the rest of the battery holder so I don't really know what the supply voltage is (which is why I asked)
no its only 1 AA battery
but i do think that the wires for the batteri holder is not connecting right
they seams to be flimsy
I'm guessing they're stranded wire, which doesn't work well in solderless breadboards. And a single 1.5V cell probably isn't enough voltage to light an LED
ok so 1 battery would not be ennough ? what about a 9v battery ?
That could work, but you'll need a larger current limiting resistor, 1kΩ would work
resistor kits are quite useful to have around
Time was when you could just go down to the local Radio Shack and pick one up. However some Microcenter locations carry AdaFruit things
Still, I stick with better vendors (DigiKey, Mouser, JameCo, etc.)
3V coin cell also works for non-blue LEDs (but holders aren't necessarily cheap; this would be more for brief testing). you don't even necessarily need a resistor (see "throwies"; though please don't actually throw them around outdoors, because it's bad for the environment)
You misspelled digikey.ca
indeed. very little incentive to use amazon for any electronics/adafruit parts
mouser is just as good too.
next day cheap or free shipping. no fuss. prices are usually almost exactly the same as any other sellers
how illiterate of me!
i added parmesan to my pwm
Use 3 AA batteries connected lengthwise and you'll get 4.5V enough to power the LED.
Parallel is good for increased capacity. Series is for increased voltage.
Hi. I just ran into a Python scenario where I'm really scratching my head.
Does Python (or CircuitPython) allow "dynamic" new variables added to a class on the fly?
I have a class that is instanced with one element, and in my code that uses the class, I set a class value to a brand new name that I forgot to add to the class. Hope this makes sense.
Well, I made some quickie test code files attached (for my amusement), and the class which is in the lib folder.
When I run this, it prints out all 3 variables even tho my class code only has "TEMP".
@stable bobcat Made this just for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcWzRto8bpQ
Use multiple AA batteries to get 4.5V which is close enough to light most 5V LED's.
Note that with 3V (two in series), your 68Ω resistor will be about right. With 4.5V, you'd want some more resistance.
I'll take a stab and say it's because you're not creating parameters or arguments but instead literally creating the variable name MYCLASS.TEMP.
If it's a 5V LED should do fine. It could shorten the lifespan of the LED but in a breadboard prototype situation I think it's fine. It'll work even without a resistor.
That's bad to teach someone that right off the bat though. It's better practice to use a resistor.
I doubt it's a 5V LED. I'm guessing it's an ordinary 2V red LED. 
You are correct thanks!
Oh... in that case 5V would be very bad. But if it was a 2V LED then 1.5V should have worked, suppose that's why I assumed it was a 5V LED.
I learned something new. too Didn't even know you could put periods in a variable name and expect it to work like that.
I could go round up an LED and try it, but I'm guessing since 1.5V is below the forward voltage of the LED that it would conduct very weakly (microamps). You might see a dim glow in a dark room. But I'll admit I haven't actually tried it. If it happens to be a blue or green LED, the forward voltage would be even higher.
You could try dir(MYCLASS) and see what comes back
Most of the hobby LED's I have that look like that are 5V and I know they won't light up with 1 AA battery.
I came across some new neopixel SMT LED's that actually don't work at 3.3V either and only work at 5V. Made me reconfigure how I was going to power them.
Most neopixel need at least 3.5V
However, it looks like an ordinary epoxy cased 2 lead 5mm LED. Most of the ones I see like that do not include the internal resistor or chip to run on 5V.
Guess I got too used to working with Adafruit neopixels and figured most of them work with 3.3V. Live and learn. 😅
I did a test once powering neopixel, they draw like 3.6V from the MCU pin
Hmm I did give each one a resistor. Maybe I choose the wrong value. :/
Which 3.6V is the max the samd21 pins would allow when it pulled from the LDO
NeoPixels don't normally need resistors
How would a NeoPixel draw 3.6V from a 3.3V pin?
Oh I didn't give them resistors they were capacitors. I was following manufacturer data sheet example. 🤷♂️
Because the samd21 pulled 3.6V from the LDO
The LDO could deliver 3.3V normally, but up to 3.6V max
The LDO shouldn't supply 3.6V, it should be a 3.3V regulator. Maybe I'm missing something.
Hey, I added a print(dir(MYCLASS)) to my test code and got this...
62
59
1234
['class', 'init', 'module', 'qualname', 'dict', 'TEMP', 'HUMI', 'TEST']
I admit being confoosed 😀
I really think we're talking at cross purposes. That is not how LDOs work.
Was kind of my thinking if you wanted them dynamic probably best to use a Dict/List.
or an array.... I think all of those can be appended with new values.
I read an article a while back on what Python is really doing when you create class. It's complicated.
Everything has a maximum rated voltage 😬
Here’s the LDO I typically use
Vout can be as high has Vin + 0.3V lol
Before is blows up anyway
Anyway, if the neopixel wants 3.6V, and the pin (subsequently the MCU) can provide it, it will draw it. It’s kind of dicey
Are you referring to a voltage sent to the output externally, or the voltage the LDO delivers to the output?
There is typical operating conditions and then the ones you don’t anticipate
Thanks DJ, didn't think of that
This being the ones you don’t anticipate
Like hooking a LiPo cell to Vout instead of to Vin?
I suppose that’s in the possible cases
I really think you're misreading the data sheet here.
I’m just reporting what I discovered in practice
3.6V out from a 3.3V regulator? That is absurdly bad regulation.
I hooked a 3535 sized SK6812 to be powered from a samd21 pin and it ended up bringing the entire 3.3V rail up to 3.6V lol
I suspect you had something else going on there. An SK6812 can't create voltage, so I'm guessing it bridged current from some other power source to the MCU pin.
Again, 3.3V is typical. There’s nothing in any LDO data sheet suggesting that a higher than typical voltage is impossible. But that’s assuming you’re powering everything normally
SK6812 has a constant current source so it technically could get a higher voltage
There absolutely is: LDO data sheets will give the regulation precision and characteristics. Yes, higher than typical is possible. But 300 millivolts higher? Like I said, that's absurdly bad.
I wouldn't expect regulation that poor from a 1980s vintage 7805
Well, it was a less than typical setup 🤷♂️
I’ve not encountered it happening since
Mostly because I avoid powering neopixel from MCU pins
I showed this on show and tell but forgot to put it on youtube. My first addressable LED board. 🌈 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN4IhfE2z-E
Uses a new type of 2mm WS2812C-2020 addressable RGB LED. Requires 5V power, 3.3V will not work. Just a short demo.
When I designed it thought they'd be 3.3v LED's. Turns out they're 5V only.
Tiny little things. 2mm LED that consumes 5V. Deceptively power hungry.
This is from the TI forums
Either way, it was a weird phenomenon
Not typical
Interesting, didn't know that.
Could have been a million things going on that I didn’t have the tools to test out
Yes, that's pretty much the same thing I meant when I said "I'm guessing it bridged current from some other power source to the MCU pin"
I know some diodes you have to watch out for the reverse leakage... depending on the situation almost makes them zener diodes.
Alternatively, there was noise on the line that could have confused a multimeter into reading the wrong voltage
Are you talking about the Arduino Due you fried? That was a pretty epic picture btw.
Oh I just got an NRF PPK. Absolutely no clue how to use it yet.
I have had one for over a year, I haven’t used it yet lol
whew I don't feel bad then. it was one of those things where I was like "I want to do a solar project but need to know when it's switching to deepest sleep"
and by the time it arrived i completely forgot what project idea I had specifically that i was going to use it for. :/
it was those new little solar cells adafruit just stocked, just remembered. only wanted to run like 1 LED on it as a solar test.
I wanted to do some really low power stuff but lost motivation after sales tanked post muskification of twitter
I’ve been in quite the drought motivation wise but I’m trying to turn that around
yeah tbh the amount of views and sharing that twitter had was unmatched. if they wanted to intentionally ruin it they couldn't have done a better job...
Yeah..
Tons of small makers shut down over the course of a year following the take over
starting to feel the same way about youtube and video ads. it's impossible to fall asleep watching youtube content now. ads have their volume boosted to the max. 😡
It was pretty sad because everyone ran whatever which way and now people’s followings are abysmal
I’ve basically given up on blocking ads
My data has been in so many breaches over the years
I think I get at least 2-3 emails a year of data breaches
I'm still blocking ads. No patience for them.
youtube is unwatchable now.
so many ads
but it depends on the account. i have a tablet that has no account, and it gets no ads
oh please don't let chatgpt get into architecture.
I think that’s reddit
I watch so little YouTube, I’m mostly unaffected. I ignore ads anyway
what in the world... took me a few sections before i noticed the holes in the beams..
oh wow those are roof joists too.
floor. their contractor was trying to run a flex duct to a register it seems
i should say, ex contractor current "defendant"
there's no way that's real.
i have a hard time beliueving it is real, but ive seen sooo much worse
I could understand the CAD maybe being a joke but someone actually did it. That's new lumber.
i did the cad. thats my joke based on the real one
and yeah. the real one... just...
like if it was the home owner and he was "i screwed up, halp". sure. but he PAID a TEAM to do this work
(alledgedly)
could be AI in the end but i dont think so
I’ve seen some bad duck runs so it’s very possible