#help-with-3dprinting

1 messages · Page 19 of 1

opal shale
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yes i think so, something to convert the rotation of the servo into a linear motion

fluid ridge
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Hmmmm. <thinking of and discarding possible designs>

tulip wing
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Kinda the same thing you are doing

fluid ridge
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Yeah!!! That's a cool idea, @tulip wing

opal shale
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the range of movement is small, but i need to move the other way too so im not sure a cam (just searching on google) will work

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just looking now

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hmm thats very interesting

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my swtich is also super shallow so I'm not sure if I will be able to clamp like that

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but it does give some more ideas

fluid ridge
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@tulip wing FTW!

opal shale
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thanks guys, I'll sketch something out

tulip wing
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Do a google image search for "Mechanism to flip a light switch"

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there are a bunch of great iedeas in there!

opal shale
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ha

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i might try this (excuse the drawing)

tulip wing
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If your switch handle is long enough

opal shale
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the thing above the switch is just something hold it close to the switch

tulip wing
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I also saw some cool ideas using rack and pinion gears to convert rotational force into linear force.

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The example I saw used laser cut plywood, but I'm sure you could 3d print it

opal shale
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I probably should have mentioned I have these

tulip wing
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you are half way there!

fluid ridge
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Also, remember the linear force necessary to move the switch will be parabolic wrt the switch position (i.e., the middle position will require the least force to move)

tulip wing
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I wonder if its more or less force than he is trying to apply now

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with a smaller gear, wouldn't that help?

fluid ridge
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Larger gear = more force (longer lever arm)

opal shale
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I guess the micro servo was able to flick the switch with some levrage

opal shale
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Trying something anyways 🤞

tulip wing
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I just spent the last hour unclogging my 3d printer -- the copper PLA is a bit problematic.

opal shale
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I've never ventured away from bog standard PLA so far

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bog standard probably doesnt mean anything to you guys, basically means basic

vast salmon
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@supple stratus hey here is idea for a project is Spider-Man beagon what lights up

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using circuit playground for it

tulip wing
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Been a sucky day battling my 3D printers, but the gods ended the day with the delivery of my heated bed and a spool of wood filiment!! w00t -- Guess I'll be staying up late to play tonight. 😄

fluid ridge
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Nice! I've never played with the wood filament at all....

tulip wing
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Noe and Pedro used bamboo filament to make the fingerboards, and I thought it would be fun to try it out.

opal shale
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I've thrown together a design for my template for the divders for the led matrix, but my printer is on a desk that is attched to my daughters room so i need to leave it for tomorrow!

fluid ridge
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Hey, @supple stratus , how did you make the diffuser insert for the gothic lantern project? My Circuit Playground base is done and the lantern is almost finished, too. I was just going to make a tube out of some printer paper, but did you 3D print something?

vast salmon
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there is skateboard frame

fluid ridge
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Errr? What about the skateboard frame? <confused>

vast salmon
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noe like that material design simulation in F360

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Blackbelt 3D printer have belt what able long 3D prints as no need to 3D print high with more support material

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the lantern project i think the small space is there for reason as it not do hotspot on diffuser

tulip wing
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@fluid ridge I had to create a new diffuser to fit mine. I printed it with natural (white-like) PLA and translucent PLA. The effect is very silimar.

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I wonder if I can upload the .stl file here... ?

fluid ridge
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That'd be cool if you can...

tulip wing
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I made my lantern at 50%, so the size might be different

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It measures 2.7" high -- how tall does your need to be?

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Maybe I just 2x the size

fluid ridge
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Sorry about the lag - I'm actually at work. 😃 I printed mine at the original size. It just fits on the Prusa....

opal shale
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The stl file could just be scaled in the slicer software so you shouldn't need to resize

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I think

fluid ridge
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Well, my spool of natural white is arriving Wednesday, so I have a bit of time.

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I'll fuss with it tonight.

opal shale
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Something like paper might work too though

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As the light source isn't pointing at the paper

fluid ridge
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I might try various diffuser and lens materials, too. Having some kind of lens sitting over the Circuit Playground might be interesting.

opal shale
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We have something called greaseproof paper (not sure if it's the same in the US) that might work well

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You'd use it for lining trays that you bake cookies on

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It comes in rolls and it's kinda semi see through

fluid ridge
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Ahhhh! Parchment paper is what they call it here....

tulip wing
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Try that, @fluid ridge

opal shale
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Yes! The white one might work

fluid ridge
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Cool! Downloading now.

compact meadow
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i just received my Crealty CR-10 today.

stuck inlet
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@compact meadow what are your first impressions?

compact meadow
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I have not opened the box yet. I watched the videos (unboxing and setting up). Because I know if I start to open it now. I will be up very late tonight. So, I will wait until tomorrow. But I read very good things about it.

stuck inlet
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😃 good plan

compact meadow
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haha, yes waking up @ 5:30am to get ready for work will not be pleasant, so I will try and set up tomorrow and hopefully start printing tomorrow or wednesday.

stuck inlet
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cool! let us know how it goes

compact meadow
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will do.

brittle oxide
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Kinda happy with the "Power Chair Barbie" chair that goes on the Adabox 002 - do you (Noe & Pedro) want that shared before 3D Hangouts? I'm going to try to get on the Show & Tell tomorrow

violet needleBOT
brittle oxide
loud iris
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Wonder why today was cancelled?

stuck inlet
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in #general-tech @supple stratus mentioned some family matters came up

idle crest
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we'll be streaming tomorrow - gavin had surgery today (tonsils, adenoids and ear tubes) he's all good!

vast salmon
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@idle crest it's like old times for 3D Printing show

stuck inlet
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I'm glad hes doing well @idle crest

idle crest
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@stuck inlet thanks! he's cranky but should be a lot better after healing

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@vast salmon yes! we'll actually use the 3d thursday banner this week 😊

stuck inlet
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@idle crest thats understandable. it'll work out for the best though

idle crest
tribal egret
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Soo that concentric 3D infill for cura is the culprit for my weird seemingly random imperfections on my recent prints..

violet needleBOT
supple stratus
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today's printing issues were solved by a simple brim & blue painters tape 👍

tulip wing
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My problem was caused by painters tape

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It actually came unstuck while it was printing!!! ugh

tribal egret
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I wonder how much of an issue adhesion is for those angled printers @tulip wing

tulip wing
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Yeah, good point

tribal egret
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the surface looked like kapton tape

tulip wing
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Is that stuff sticky? Seems very smooth to me.

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Painters tape has a "tooth" to it

tribal egret
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one side is, but the other side feels like glossy tape

tribal egret
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30 pack of gluesticks are on sale for $8 on amazon if anyone needs a stock of them xD

supple stratus
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Hello!

stuck inlet
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hi @supple stratus !

violet needleBOT
brittle oxide
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Ugh - you're new time on Wed is very hard for me to make

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BTW, I may be visiting NY in Sept!

stuck inlet
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around maker faire @brittle oxide ?

brittle oxide
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Perhaps - I haven't checked. I'm giving the keynote at the NJ AT Conference

violet needleBOT
verbal bronze
rapid steppe
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That looks amazing.

supple stratus
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@verbal bronze thats great! I shared your design with the AT Makers group on fb 👍

verbal bronze
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Thank you very much, @supple stratus !

analog mauve
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Hello people from the world of 3D. I'm feeling quite 2D myself. I'm getting interesting in "fabricating" some pieces and parts. I've read up on some of the Make mag reviews/guides and found a few others but to be honest still feel quite uncertain where I should start in terms of a 3D printer. I have no experience in 3D design or printing. It's a fair question "what do you want to print/build" and the answer is I'm not sure where this would lead me. At first I would just look to do some custom plastic cases to hold projects or parts of projects (no more than 6-8" on a side I imagine). But later I'd like to be able to tackle some more creative builds like I see you folks do 😃 Do you guys know of a good/better reference where I can get a better idea of the pros and cons of different brands/types? It would especially be good to find a reference that has already narrowed done options to a degree. Some times too many choices is just overwhelming. Thanks.

tribal egret
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@analog mauve learning how to create 3D design and 3D print is fun! - What's your budget? How much desk space do you have for this. What material(s) are you most interested in printing with, PLA? ABS? (common 3D printing filament plastics), Do you want to D.I.Y or would you prefer something that works out of the box?

shy kelp
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@idle crest How did you get Fusion 360 on a Pi?

analog mauve
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I think plastic for now, but between the plastics I don't have a practical grasp of which is best/when. As far as budget, I'd love something less than $500-$600 but if those are too limited I might prefer to save more and wait longer to start. I don't have a particular space limitation but I wouldn't expert to start with something that was several 3' square. Unless I'm wrong. Thanks

violet needleBOT
shy kelp
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Well would you look at that!

rapid steppe
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Looks pretty handy.

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Is it actually up? Or is it still being built, or looked at or something?

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It says Preview, so I assume it's still being worked on?

supple stratus
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yea it should be available to anyone with an autodesk account. still free to sign up with the hobbyist free license

idle crest
shy kelp
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Chromium complains that WebGL isn't enabled. Did you have this problem @idle crest?

supple stratus
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i don't remember seeing that but i imagine webGL should be turned on if theres an option

vast salmon
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@supple stratus nice layer by layer

supple stratus
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@vast salmon thanks! it was fun breaking things =]

shy kelp
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@supple stratus @idle crest what pi did you use?

vast salmon
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well i havent watched it fully

supple stratus
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@shy kelp stock Pi 3 running latest pixel os

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@vast salmon yea i ended up breaking two designs. i think their auto-saving stuff probably got snagged while recording

shy kelp
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My WebGL problem could be that I'm using a pi 2 B

supple stratus
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@shy kelp it was chugging pretty hard and never really worked on the pi 3

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the cpu was peaking at 90%

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guess one could try overclocking

shy kelp
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I've read that you need to override rendering blocks to get it to work

shy kelp
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@supple stratus @idle crest Are you still doing 3D Hangouts today?

stuck inlet
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thanks for the link @Raid#4501

shy kelp
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Just doing my unassigned job :)

stuck inlet
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😃 thanks, its appreciated

idle crest
shy kelp
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Hello!

idle pulsar
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Finished up a custom rick and morty portal gun today (120mm build platform too small for the existing models)

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all custom designed and 3d Printed with Adafruit electronics

tribal egret
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That's awesome! Whats inside? 😄

idle pulsar
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okay… it’s Adafruit and Sparkfun… it’s a Pro Micro running everything (can’t find my multitude of trinkets), a 4x 14segment display backpack and a rotary encoder plus some LEDs and a 2K lipo

idle crest
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wow, looks amazing!

tribal egret
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thats a big battery! is this for a cosplay @idle pulsar

idle pulsar
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It’s gotta run for the whole night and I build things modular so it’s an investment into more than this project

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I just wish I had more than a 120mm build plate…

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would have been able to get an audio board in there too if I could go a bit longer

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it’s already in multiple pieces…

idle crest
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i like designing modular, makes transporting/shipping it easier

idle pulsar
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makes bringing it over the boarder / on a plan without bringing the battery easier too… buy a lipo there (thank you standardized ports)

stuck inlet
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@idle pulsar shout out to you now!

idle pulsar
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hi all

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yea, that was a battery charger

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thanks @stuck inlet I had turned the stream off about 15 mins ago

stuck inlet
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np 😃

waxen sluice
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I see Fusion 360 is Cloud based. Oh well.... And, it isn't free.

shy kelp
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@waxen sluice I think you need to download the free trial and then sign up for a maker/hobbyist license

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Which is free

azure warren
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f360 is free if u dont make 100k per year for a company

waxen sluice
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@shy kelp I wasn't aware of any maker/hobbyist license. I didn't see anything about that.

azure warren
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i think it was a choice once u install it. I remember radio selections for it

shy kelp
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Yeah

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You just need to click the trial counter once you launch the program

azure warren
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i think they would get more users if that was clearer though

shy kelp
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Very true

azure warren
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seems to spook so many off

waxen sluice
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@azure warren Ah, I see, I didn't want to install it for just 30 days but if I can do what you say than for sure I will try it. I'm just a Lone Maker in my basement workshop and won't make any money.

shy kelp
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Then it's free under the maker/hobbyist license

azure warren
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ive used it for a year plus now free. just have to state not making 100k once a year or so

shy kelp
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If you're making 100k yearly, you can probably afford a paid license

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Which makes it a great business model

waxen sluice
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If I made 100k/yr like I used to, than yes, I would pay for it.

azure warren
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ya

waxen sluice
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I pay for all my software. Developed it for 40 years. I know the effort it takes.

violet needleBOT
azure warren
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if u worried about cloud. You can work offline mode and it puts it on hard disk. I beleive it puts a copy on hard disk when in online mode as well though incase internet is down

waxen sluice
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That is a concern of mine. I can't gaurantee internet 100% of the time.

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However, clouds are the future and the future is here so.....

azure warren
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i think cloud is silly name. its just hard disk on the internet really. lul but i guess that is not sexy enough

stuck inlet
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usually more that one too @azure warren

azure warren
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i was just simplifing it

waxen sluice
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@azure warren Yes, I agree, but it is a hard disk with applications to run as well as just the data your local apps used.

stuck inlet
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ya 😃

waxen sluice
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May I say something rather long here? @stuck inlet

stuck inlet
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yup! just make sure you are in the right channel for the topic

azure warren
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140 characters or less lul

waxen sluice
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I would like to make a statement if you don't mind. I have a simple XYZ Jr wireless that only uses PLA. It's a great product. My goal is to find that "Killer Part" to make more people use more 3D printers more often. Computers had thier Killer Apps like word processors, spreadsheets, graphics app and so forth. Those made people want to use a computer. Now look at where they are. We need the same sort of thing for 3D printers but except for an "app" I think it needs to be a product/s of some simple sort. No fancy shmansy complicated object electrified massive thingy, just small, quick-to-print, easy piece parts for "lay-people" to start out with. Something that a lot of people would make a lot of. I have ideas but am wondering if anybody else does. Or am I just crazy....🙄

azure warren
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people like fidget spinners

waxen sluice
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@azure warren yup, that's one thing. Continue....

azure warren
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or u can make something with gears if printer is able

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i had been working on a bag clip with a in place hinge to show off to people

waxen sluice
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Now your thinking.

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I made "Cappers" that use the holes of a baseball cap to hold in pplace. Made Packer Cappers, Cubs Cappers, White Sox Cappers. just switch them in and out depending on the team I am going to see.

azure warren
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oh interesting. im not much into hats my self though

waxen sluice
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They take maybe 15 to 20 minutes to print. Simpple, quick and easy.

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I love this 3D printing world but am not able to have the latest and greatest. But most people aren't either.

tribal egret
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I think if we had sort of a noun-project but for things it would be easier to find objects https://thenounproject.com/

"3D models for everything" vs "icons for everything"

azure warren
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nor me

waxen sluice
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I made a buch a piece parts like an erector set that can be put together to make things.

tribal egret
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and instead of just nouns, for parts

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yeh

azure warren
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oh thats neat northern

waxen sluice
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Yeah, I have beams and axles and pulleys and levers and etc... Used Orings for pulleys to a stepper controlled my an uno. Works great.

azure warren
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sounds fun

waxen sluice
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Also make small enclosures for projects. That's the best part about having a 3D printer in my personal opinion.

azure warren
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there is thingiverse for finding projects

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cascade

waxen sluice
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I know, but it's HUGE.

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I get lost in places like that

azure warren
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yes, i had hope to get more into that northernpike but my printer has been like a lemon and always breaks setting me back sigh

waxen sluice
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OUCH, sorry to hear that. Never give up....

azure warren
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welp. i must go off. bye

violet needleBOT
sleek glacier
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What size calipers should i get? Is it worth getting ones larger than the standard 6"? Just wondering since my new printer is going to have a 7" base (M3D Pro) It seems like it would be nice to be able to measure anything that comes off the printer but reading the caliper reviews it sounds like the larger ones are more awkward to use. Thought I would check in here to see if anyone has strong opinions.

opal shale
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Get a standard one for sure

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If you need a bigger one later I'd then upgrade

sleek glacier
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Thanks!

graceful junco
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@opal shale Are you on Twitter or have a YouTube channel? Just want to follow your projects and stuff.

opal shale
graceful junco
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@@opal shale Haha yeah, I just realized that. I was just clearing the unread threads and I remembered that I wanted to get your YouTube and Twitter links.

violet needleBOT
cold bronze
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Got my monoprice mini delta today. Need to angle the spool holder

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And figure a way to make it 3mm eventually

vast salmon
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Naomi Wu got new flashforce 2 printer

analog mauve
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I saw her unboxing video. Looks like a sweet printer.

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Is anyone here using a PRUSA I3 MK2S Printer? It tempts me as my first printer. Seems too offer good price/performance.

fluid ridge
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@analog mauve I have one! Love it!

analog mauve
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Good to know @fluid ridge. I am strongly considering pulling the trigger on one. How long have you had it?

fluid ridge
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Two months! It's quiet, has a marvelous build volume, and they're coming out with a 4-material extruder.

analog mauve
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Cool!

zealous isle
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@cold bronze How is it!

stuck inlet
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@supple stratus where did you find the music in the gaurdian shield video?

shy kelp
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ok, after mentioning it earlier... I can't seem to find any examples of a good slide cover/extension/button/widgety thing.

supple stratus
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@stuck inlet we ripped it straight from the game. audio out from nintendo switch to my H4n mic =]

stuck inlet
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ah ok

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think you'll get copyright snagged on youtube?

shy kelp
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use/function: extend out of case, bottom connects to SPST switch like on CPX or Gemma MO... so if you think of how small those switches are, this would sit on that (seated), and make switch easy to toggle with case on. (Lots of these exist, why do I not find any STL examples?)

supple stratus
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yep, the video isn't not monetizable but 🤷

stuck inlet
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yup yup

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we'll see

supple stratus
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Like, here you go nintendo, $100 in ad money 😉

stuck inlet
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yup yup

shy kelp
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if it gets pulled, it'll be due to automated recognition... and that song likely isn't in the search db (yet)

supple stratus
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youtube gave us a notification about it before we published the video. the song was credited + linked in the youtube video automatically.

analog mauve
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It's all pretty mindless. I had a video yanked and my account penalized over a video which included music that I had paid to license for use. Took a lot of crap to get YouTube/Google to fix it. Guilty until proven innocent.

supple stratus
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ouch 😦

stuck inlet
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yeah, thats a bummer @analog mauve

analog mauve
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Yeah. And yet some yahoo can copy almost all of my daughter's YouTube videos and YouTube doesn't much care.

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She had to send a ton of complaints before YouTube did anything

shy kelp
analog mauve
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She isn't a major corporation

supple stratus
analog mauve
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Anyway, don't meant to go off topic, just that once they put a target on you, even if you're not guilty, it can hurt. So caution is warranted IMO

shy kelp
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thanks Noe!

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on my above example: 2nd photo, left side, green sliders

supple stratus
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@shy kelp ah well thats not too bad, with a lower layerheight that might look less rough

stuck inlet
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looks good @supple stratus

shy kelp
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yeah, first thing I saw that actually did the task. I might have the wrong search term. suggestions welcome.

supple stratus
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@analog mauve maybe youtube has gotten better about this sorta thing. The wording in their email was pretty mellow, like "you don't have to do anything, we'll just use the ad money to pay the copyright holder".

analog mauve
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@supple stratus that's a nice change. I wonder if it is up to the copyright holder? I.e. If the copyright holder can say "give us ad money" vs "take it down and penalize them"

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There have been some pretty major YouTube channels taken out over this kind of thing. Still, I'm not gonna tell my daughter, trying to teach her to be careful about digital rights.

supple stratus
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@stuck inlet thanks! usually don't add all the components like this but i figured i would since there's not that much

stuck inlet
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😃

supple stratus
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@analog mauve ah, very good point. Will definitely be more cautious with future videos. Feels like walking on thin ice =X

shy kelp
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Noe, I think it helps in this case with clearances.

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I just watched a brilliant CP screw mount 3d design video.

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it was really awesome.

verbal socket
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I know Nintendo used to be assholes about that sort of thing. They stopped Smash Bros from being streamed from a fighting tournament. But yeah, I think music is just "give them a cut and it'll be fine"

supple stratus
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@shy kelp yep, normally i just draw the tallest component and go from there

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@shy kelp oh, nice! if you have a link handy i'll take a peek

shy kelp
supple stratus
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Oh nice, yea thats Vladimir (desktop makes) he's been on the S&T =]

shy kelp
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but I will likely use that screw mount as a start for a CPX case...

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Designed with Fusion 360. Learn to design with Fusion 360 with video tutorials at https://www.desktopmakes.com/
This is a screw terminal block for the Adafruit Circuit Playground board. It allows you to use the board with regular jumper wires instead of alligator clips. It is designed for M3 nuts and screws. The nuts I used measured 5.4mm in diameter. Take a look at the video below for design and assembly.
https://youtu.be/vQVX-AsVE5U
https://youtu.be/YTMIqhu1OOU

supple stratus
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@verbal socket yea they probably don't have much of a case on the projects either. the STLs are free and there's no logos or symbols that are copy-written, AFAIK.

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@shy kelp yeah! that's actually the project he showed last time he went on S&T

shy kelp
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it's not only an amazing tutorial of how to build a design from scratch using only the PCB, but it's a nice solution for many uses.

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add a lid, cut a few wire out notches (or access holes in lid) and maybe remove the tiedowns if you don't need em... but really the lid might be the only part to change for a given usage.

sleek glacier
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I logged in here for the first time the other day and after a while I noticed that in addition to Adafruit, I also have an M3DPRO channel. Is that the way this is set up for everyone or did discord automagically add the M3D channel after I mentioned it in chat?

stuck inlet
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@sleek glacier I don't see it. maybe you joined before?

sleek glacier
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nope, this is a new account

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weird. helpful though!

stuck inlet
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¯_(ツ)_/¯

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I have noclip and kinda funny too

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they are mostly muted though

sleek glacier
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maybe it noticed an old cookie i had laying around

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i don't remember looking at discord before but maybe I did.

stuck inlet
#

yeah, I had noclip when I joined and it was like that

cold bronze
#

removing supports from ninjaflex is a real pain

violet needleBOT
idle crest
cold bronze
#

@idle crest you need to wear cut resistant gloves. Looks like you need to go to spatula city

idle crest
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@cold bronze lol - nah, tis but a scratch

rain orchid
#

@Stuff With Kirby 😂 😂 😂

idle crest
rain orchid
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@idle crest oh, that is sweet i didnt even notice the other end of it. Def let us know if it makes the grade! Pulling up large prints is always a pain and my other tool is frail af lol

brittle oxide
#

@supple stratus and @idle crest , you might find this thread interesting. Comparing $250 brackets to the $2.50 3D Printed versions 😃

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Here's a rendering of my solution. Need more measuring tomorrow and then some test prints. 5 (count-em!) T-Nuts in this... 4 for the VESA screws and 1 for a thumbscrew to hold in the bracket.

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I'll add fillets after I get the measurements for the bracket perfect

heady python
#

Can someone demo the discord chat for 3d printing with adafruit? I can't figure out how to get into the chat room...

fading pecan
#

why isnt it playing

cold bronze
#

Its under the live broadcast channel on the left

stuck inlet
violet needleBOT
vast salmon
#

so there was a show

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus you could perhaps add something to spline face for test import DXF stuff

violet needleBOT
wet chasm
#

I am new to this community, and my wife and I are thinking of jumping into the 3D printing game. We are both fairly technologically savvy. With a $1,000.00 budget what do you all think is the best 3D printer one could get? We are primarily looking to tinker with it; we have 2 children (10 and 6) who we are trying to raise with an overwhelming familiarity for technology.

modest bone
#

@wet chasm Even though I don't have a huge background on 3d printing, I do have enough to get though. if you're looking for a printer for children (so that your kids can see how things work on a bsic level) I would look into printers that stand on a basic level. If you're looking for one that you can tinker with whilst showing your kids what you're doing, I would go for a kit; like the Prusa i3 Mk 2. I wouldn't go for one that costs more than $1500 like the ultimaker or replicators etc; they're expensive to start off with. the ones I've mentioned are fdm.

#

If you would like, I'm more than happy to help source some printers

#

I've recently bought the CR-10 which has a massive build volume, 300x300x400mm

#

it costs around $400-500

shy kelp
#

Cr10 is best of breed now, according to reviewers. Kits are cheaper yes.

verbal socket
#

wow, that's pretty damn cheap

#

and laser cutters aren't too expensive either

#

*engravers, it turns out

wet chasm
#

Wow, I was already looking at the Prusa, but the Cr-10 seems too good to be true.

#

Thanks for the information.

modest bone
#

@wet chasm glad to help out

analog mauve
#

I'm pretty interested in the Prusa as well. Seems to be flexible regarding material with good reviews. What's the main benefit of the CR-10? That one's new to me.

compact meadow
#

I've had the CR-10 for a few weeks now and its a very good printer. Very large print bed. And it prints a lot of different filaments.

verbal socket
#

newb question but how does printing wood even work?

tame depot
#

@verbal socket I'm not an expert, but I think the wood is mixed with plastic so when it heats it, the wood is left behind

verbal socket
#

we live in the future, man

#

😄

tame depot
#

Yep

shy kelp
#

Wood and metal printing (and strangely glow in the dark printing too), all work by using mixes of plastic and other stuff. Proportions vary, even among similar metals, depending on brand, weight, etc.

#

Some 'wood' filaments will change color based on heat, so by varying the extruder temp, you get a 'wood grain'

zealous isle
#

O.o @shy kelp Do you have an example?

opal shale
#

@zealous isle

zealous isle
#

@opal shale ty

opal shale
#

Pretty sure the pattern on the deck is achieved by changing temp

violet needleBOT
tribal egret
cold bronze
#

Since theres no 3dhangout today does anyone got any cool makes or projects they've found this week?

tribal kraken
#

Cool

#

😊

#

I would be really cool making 3d printed stencils !

#

I = It

#

Anyway your workbench looks a bit familiar to mine

#

Except the Laptop

cold bronze
#

@tribal kraken I cleaned it up a bit since then. I can see a tad more counter. thats my coding display behind. I have two hdmi screens and on is in portrait mode. Switch inputs depending which one I need

tribal kraken
#

Sweeet Setup.....

tribal egret
#

@cold bronze printed some of these to try out, @fluid ridge https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:621794 -- they work but they're a little soft on the edges

Look at those two sample pictures! Wow!
You can now give any Nikon F-mount lenses or adapters a super macro super power!
UPDATE: Added a new retention ring for lens-side mounting. No tools or rubber bands needed! Just snap it onto any macro adapter and check that its protruding tip meshes with the cosponsoring locking hole on your lens. I put two to a plate so printers will have time to let the previous layers cool when it comes to printing the thin locking nib.
UPDATE 2: Strengthened retention ring for lens-side mounting.
In Use:
The two sample pictures were taken with a 40mm and 80mm printed adapter stacked on top of each other with a Minolta 50mm F/2 lens and lens-less F-mount to MD/SR-mount converter. No cropping was done. (minimum focal distance for this setup is roughly 65mm or 2.5in)
The demo video titled "Tiny things on a 3D printer" was recorded with an 80mm printed adapter (predecessor version; see below) and Minolta 50mm F/2. http://youtu.be/D8-BCeOGRiQ
Locking example video (see Instructions) was recorded with 20mm printed adapter and a Nikkor 35mm F/1.8.
Features:

  1. Built-in tab opens aperture all the way on Nikkor lenses that do not have manual aperture control. This tab can be broken off or shortened if desired. (see "d" in the Instructions for more control options)
  2. These are designed to mesh precisely with the locks on both the camera body and lens for safe use. (lens-side lock pin requires rubber band Lens-side requires new C-clip)
  3. Lenses remain in the same orientation as they would without these adapters (name-plates up).
  4. Three sizes are provided; 20mm, 40mm, and 80mm.
  5. You can stack them.
  6. These may be printed without support, though the aperture tab may fail to function fully.
    See Instructions for more tips.
    Also check out my F to SR-mount macro adapter, the predecessor to this design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:619663
opal shale
#

Not sure I'd trust a lens on anything I'd print 😂

tribal egret
#

@opal shale 😛 I just tried it on my 70-200 f2.8

#

@opal shale using it with my kit 18-55 lens from 2008 x)

cold bronze
tribal egret
stuck inlet
#

@tribal egret I have no idea. I don't have an account. @ionic heath @supple stratus @idle crest

tribal egret
#

@stuck inlet weird that there is no report post. thanks for checking!

stuck inlet
#

the list post screen had a flag option that I just did

tribal egret
#

did the same 😄

stuck inlet
#

cool cool, thanks for the heads up

supple stratus
#

just catching up on stuff. Re: the NSFW post on ada's thingiverse group – looks like the topic is still there (can't delete) but the comment has been removed 😕

vast salmon
#

blinka we have a emotebut A is what i like

supple stratus
#

I could do all three but I have to pick one to do first 😃

#

@vast salmon One vote for C. thanks, Jani!

vast salmon
#

well first could be the C as that is a emote

supple stratus
#

yeah

tribal egret
#

@supple stratus how big will this be?

supple stratus
#

about 4x4 inches (101mm)

#

fairly small since it'll be machined on the othermill pro

tribal egret
#

just worried abiut how readable the wordmark is

opal shale
#

I'm going to give my vote as a reaction

supple stratus
#

😃

tribal egret
#

seems like c is more easily recognisable

supple stratus
#

option C does have a nice outline to it too

opal shale
#

Will it work as well with presumably a single colour?

supple stratus
#

I think so, everything will be an engraved outline so the details should show fine

#

some of the features might look better as a "pocket" like the belly segments

verbal socket
#

I think A has too much text

#

at least in that design/space

#

B is my choice depending on context. just because blinka doesn't have any context

opal shale
#

B is pretty cool too

#

Yeah I agree with @verbal socket

verbal socket
#

so if people know what circuitpython is, use blinka

opal shale
#

I like C the best, but B might make more sense

verbal socket
#

^^

supple stratus
#

good points! B certainly would be easier to trace and machine. I do have to redraw all the outlines since I don't have the vector artwork (yet). Also i found DXF/SVG artwork to be a little quirky with fusions engraving tool paths (gets rendered weird).

opal shale
#

Thinkercad seems to do an OK job of it, not sure though

vast salmon
#

well the there is turn lines as a path before import to fusion

opal shale
supple stratus
#

yeah tinkercad parses svgs nicely. I'll give dfx import a try once i get the artwork from BRuce. sometimes tracing the outlines can't be avoided since I have to setup the cam toolpaths in fusion. but, we'll see!

#

yea illustrator has a nice tool for turning jpg's into vector

void niche
#

My vote is for B - I like the C image, but B requires less familiarity. Better for introducing CP . Not sure who the intended audience is.

vast salmon
#

if the dxf files from vectorimage have path from the object it should be fine

supple stratus
#

this is a bit of an odd one since i believe most folks have access to 3d printers. this could be 3d printed but won't have the same effect as engraved acrylic. i think showing the machining process is more significant than having something easily reproducable.

#

but its probably good to note laser engraving services like ponoko are an option, for folks interested in making it

graceful junco
#

@supple stratus too late to vote? I vote B

red temple
#

I think B.

red temple
#

I think it's time I replace my very broken ROBO3D what's the current suggestion for minimum hassle printers? I'm fine having to tinker and mod the printer but I want something that will have high uptime then down.

shy kelp
#

CR-10

red temple
#

Is that not basically an i3?

shy kelp
#

beefy power supply, good build, good support. "minimum hassle"

red temple
#

Fair enough

errant prawn
#

i3 is a whole class of printers

#

CR-10 is a solid frame. Good value for money

thorn notch
#

its a year old tho...

shy kelp
#

hello

pallid torrent
#

@shy kelp are you watching the live stream?

violet needleBOT
violet needleBOT
proud palm
supple stratus
#

@proud palm Neat hack, like the idea. I've been out of the pokemonGo universe for a while now 😕

opal shale
#

Looks awesome @supple stratus

supple stratus
#

@opal shale thanks, all it needs now is an on/off switch adabot

supple stratus
#

couldn't resist making some faux traces

stuck inlet
#

looks really good @supple stratus !

supple stratus
#

@stuck inlet thanks man

#

@stuck inlet lemme know if you want one, i can ship it to ya

stuck inlet
#

bring it to nyc 😃

verbal socket
#

that looks amaaaaaazing

shy kelp
#

Well done, that looks incredible!

supple stratus
#

@verbal socket @shy kelp thanky thanky

#

@stuck inlet ah better idea

stuck inlet
#

😃

opal shale
#

@supple stratus maybe you could give one away for tomorrow's trinket party thing (is that what's it's called?)

stuck inlet
#

you all will have to say hi to @vernal hull for me when shes on the stream

supple stratus
#

@opal shale yea thats possible, might be easier to limit to US :-X

opal shale
#

I'm cool with that, I wouldn't enter these things!

#

From a shipping perspective

supple stratus
#

🤑

opal shale
#

Poor Canadians though 😂

tribal egret
#

It's alright @opal shale ~ douses self in maple syrup

opal shale
#

Sounds like a tasty way to go

violet needleBOT
wispy prawn
#

@supple stratus your love for circuit traces MIIIIIGHT give my own a run for it's money

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus @idle crest think if you add low poly firebreath to low poly unicorn head so it have lights too

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus show today?

supple stratus
#

@vast salmon yes! we're using restream.io so there won't be a scheduled youtube event.

vast salmon
#

make hard to be on time watch

supple stratus
#

sparky is expected

opal shale
#

Yeah I had that problem at the weekend with restream.io that I couldn't stream to a youtube event

#

Other than that it worked great

#

I was wondering was I doing something wrong, but it doesn't seem like it if your having the same thing

night summit
#

Ahhh @supple stratus Could you please tell me what time the show is at. I'm in Chicago area which is Central Time. For some reason I have been mising your show because I'm late to the party.

supple stratus
#

@night summit in ~20min, 11am ET

night summit
#

Perfect, thanks eh?

#

Was wondering if you have ever thought about a show that describes various ways of "Cleaning" a 3D printer.

#

As you know, maintenance is a big issue with these products.

supple stratus
#

thats a great topic, general tips too would be very helpful.

#

having spent a lot of time milling acrylic this week, cleaning a machines is totally on my mind 😄

night summit
#

Yeah, tips-n-tricks and various tools and cleaners and the big "PM" as we called it in our day. Preventive Maintenance"

vast salmon
#

you milled circuitpython sign for sure

supple stratus
#

so much swarf!

night summit
#

swarf??? Now there's a term I've not heard.

#

T-10 minutes, will let you get ready.

supple stratus
#

scambles to get all the streams

violet needleBOT
warped token
violet needleBOT
violet needleBOT
shy kelp
#

@supple stratus @idle crest should we be expecting any changes to the show times today or next week because of the hurricane?

supple stratus
#

@shy kelp yes, the show must go on! adabot

shy kelp
#

I'll be there!

verbal socket
#

or can you 3d print a freddy mercury

shy kelp
#

@supple stratus wait, so there is or isn't a change today?

supple stratus
vast salmon
#

@supple stratus well I cannot be watching the 3D hangout today

supple stratus
#

@vast salmon no worries all good

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus did you guys 3D print the multiple arcade button switcher?

supple stratus
#

@vast salmon of course!

vast salmon
#

I posted what i am planning to do to #help-with-projects so it have one space where it need lots of buttons

shy kelp
#

@supple stratus @idle crest is auto leveling worth an extra $20?

toxic kite
#

I suppose in theory it dampens the probability that you'll break your platform?

#

otherwise I'd consider it a tradeoff in learning and time

supple stratus
#

@shy kelp sure, depends on the setup but i haven't had any problems with auto-leveling on the UM3

shy kelp
#

I've decided to stick with manual leveling since I've seen auto leveling on low end printers that works by compensating for an unlevel bed, causing print quality to be lower and the nozzle to crash more often

violet needleBOT
compact meadow
#

@supple stratus On the UM3 have you guys use the BB/PVA printcore? is so, have you had any issue doing so?

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus @idle crest have you guys seen ribbon ethernet cable?

wispy prawn
#

@vast salmon Ribbon ethernet? I've seen flat ether, but not what I'd call ribbon...

vast salmon
#

@wispy prawn flat or ribbon does it make a difference?

wispy prawn
#

Huh...after asking the Great God Google... apparently we're talking about the same thing...

#

ribbon cable just.. feels different in my head?

#

Anywho, I've got LOADS of flat cables. Comes from working for a company that bundles them with their products.

vast salmon
#

@wispy prawn well that is how ruiz brothers call it as ribbon

#

I got one via Asus DSL modem

wispy prawn
#

I like em, mostly. They're a little more suceptable to tortion damage, but not as likely to get crimped badly, and much easier to hide, say, under a rug

vast salmon
#

I heard that ethernet flat cables can get interference more easily

indigo ridge
#

ethernet usually comes as twisted pairs to avoid crosstalk

#

I would imagine that a flat or ribbon cable would lose that benefit

#

but you also typically would not be going as far with the cable

wispy prawn
#

I THINK (i'm not sure, and now I'm going to have to sacrifice a cable to BE sure) that, depending on the actual cable, the pairs would still be twisted, just that those twisted pairs would be side by side instead of being twisted together with the rest of the bunch....

indigo ridge
#

yeah, you would have to wire all of the pins correctly or it would not work at all, so I'm sure that was done. The benefit to running it twisted for the length of the cable is to minimize the noise from crosstalk - the other pairs arent in a straight vertical run inducing noise

compact meadow
#

@supple stratus On the UM3 have you guys use the BB/PVA printcore? is so, have you had any issue doing so?

supple stratus
#

@compact meadow Yes, I've used it once or twice for PVA supports on a fairly complex model. Didn't run into any problems, IIRC. Hows your UM3 working out thus far?

#

@compact meadow I remember using CURA's preset profiles, so I didn't really have to dail in any slice settings. It just worked (which was very surprising)

compact meadow
#

@supple stratus apart from the PVA its running great with AA/BB.4 . I purchased another AA/.4 , BB/.8 and AA/.8. But when I switch from AA/BB.4 to AA/BB.8, Cura does not recognize and will not let me select the new printcores.

supple stratus
#

@compact meadow Ah, check to see if it has the latest firmware (should be available on the bots screen) I do remember having to update that in order for it to recognize the new cores. If it's up to date, may need to contact ultimaker support

#

@compact meadow OTA firmware updates are so future (when it works)

compact meadow
#

Will do. I put an issue into the Ultimaker forum 8 days ago....silence so far. But in another note. I'm in Jacksonville, FL, I'm staying put where I'am. Are you guys heading to a safe location?

vast salmon
supple stratus
#

@compact meadow 8 days!? geez their forum must be pretty backed up then... I can DM you my contact's email may he can push it through. We're Royal Palm, also staying put. Most of our shutters are up and hoping for the best. It's been many years since the last major hurricane. I think 2005 was one heck of a year the season.

compact meadow
#

@supple stratus Yes, that will be great if you can send your contact email. I'm glad to hear you all have a plan to stay safe.

supple stratus
#

@compact meadow no worries! yea we've been through a few so we're prepped and know what to expect if 💩 hits the fan

tribal egret
#

stay safe guys /o\ @supple stratus @compact meadow

compact meadow
#

@tribal egret Thank you.

tribal egret
#

I grew up with typhoons from the pacific myself..

#

not fun

#

do you guys have weather sensor stuffs

compact meadow
#

wow, typhoons are feisty.

#

No. No weather sensor stuffs. But, I will definitely have plans to make some.

tribal egret
#

actually looks pretty heavy duty

vast salmon
tribal egret
#

looks so complete.

vast salmon
#

now to do it and build ultimate weather station?

tribal egret
#

would have to get a bigger 3D printer 😅

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus are there ninjaflex what can be used great with neopixels like light it up without hotspots

vast salmon
wraith saddle
#

anybody know anything about the Formbot3D TREX 2+? I saw joel do an intro video (not a review), but can't find much other than that

obsidian perch
#

Hey guys, I'm new at 3d printing. I'd like to create 3d printed figures and sell them in my online shop page which I will open afterwards. What do you guys recommend me at first? Which software should I learn and use? And which 3d printer is the best option for my little scale projects? Thank you for all 😃

digital jay
#

@obsidian perch I have a Micro 3D printer from M3D. It's super user friendly and has a pretty small build space. If you get it off their website it's like $200 right now. It has its own printing software which just takes .STL files. For actually designing stuff I would use Autodesk Fusion 360 or TinkerCAD because they are free

karmic brook
#

Is the software multiplatform?

wraith saddle
#

@obsidian perch another good option for a small, inexpensive printer is the Monoprice Mini. Since it sounds like you're wanting to do organic shapes for your figures, I'd recommend Blender. Fusion 360 is awesome, and it's great for mechanical or geometric shapes, but it's more difficult (IMO) to get nice organic shapes

cold bronze
#

No one is going to pay for a figure printed off an m3d, its gonna look bad most likely

boreal lava
#

@obsidian perch One thing to keep in mind when you start looking at the lower end of 3D printers is that there is a steeper learning curve, and there is a time investment there. It would not be unusual to spend anywhere from a couple of weeks to a month or more getting a budget printer set up to run production quality prints. While some of the bigger names/brands are quite a bit more expensive, many of them will be ready to go straight out of the box. Will that lost time outweigh potential sales?

cold bronze
#

And also miniatures are pretty cheap in far better quality already at your game store. Look at the bones line and such

#

Printing miniatures for yourself and friends works well. But pricing them to make a profit just isn't feasable when they can buy a higher quality one at the store.

wraith saddle
#

And also, don't let anyone discourage you from trying to chase your dream.

obsidian perch
#

Thank your guys for your replies @digital jay @wraith saddle @brad#6749 @Stuff With Kirby#8486
Of course I'm aware of those situations you said that. I planned this mini project in my mind not like a big startup. It's more like a hobby store which I have not encountered in my country yet. The quality will probably low according to those in game stores as you said. However the good part is that the customer will be able to create his/her figure. So in my opinion, this is more appealing than the quality of product for people. Thank you for the recommendations. I'll look at them all. 😃

zealous isle
#

@obsidian perch that does sound fun! I would totally design my own little squad of soldiers. Or if I had an idea of a character in my head, this would be a low cost way of getting my own figurine, rather than buying a premade figurine from the store.

#

Monoprice released their Mini Delta printer, it might be fun to keep an eye on that.

obsidian perch
#

The exact thoughts of mine @zealous isle ! Fun is important in this case. Thank you for your comment. 🙂

orchid yarrow
#

Anyone here used a sanguinololu?

#

The one we have seems to have an overheating voltage regulator and bricks its atmega when trying to program over ftdi

tribal egret
#

3D printed circuits!!

stuck inlet
#

can it do vias?

vast salmon
#

Circuitpython board by 3d printing

tribal egret
#

@stuck inlet not sure about the properties of the protective layers but if you could create multiple layers -- I think its doable.

stuck inlet
#

yeah, that would be neat

sleek glacier
#

Oh good, Noe and Pedro are back. Hope you survived the hurricane OK.

blissful marlin
#

Hm, I have a small problem with some 3D files. It seems they are too complex. (over 900 MB)

In my software for my FDM printer it can load it, but when I try to load it into Preform it says the file is damaged - any ideas?

#

I tried to import it to meshmixer, but its not loading

violet needleBOT
proud shore
#

Given the contents of @ionic heath #adabox005 -- Pi Zero + Joy Bonnet -- I bet others would be interested in this 3D printed case I designed and built a several weeks ago for my Pi Zero W + Joy Bonnet: https://tinwhiskerz.com/2017/08/01/pi-zero-w-joy-bonnet-case/ #adabox

When I first saw the Adafruit Joy Bonnet for the Raspberry Pi Zero I know I had to get one and try it out. :-) I liked the idea of having a small RetroPie rig I could keep in my pocket. As if I nee…

opal shale
#

Having a 3d printer is a reminder of how un creative I am

#

I can literally make anything, and I can't think of anything when I am designing stuff 😃

boreal lava
#

lol @opal shale I feel you. I have a 3d printer, CNC router, and loads of tools. What I lack is ideas and the creativity to see them through.

blissful marlin
#

Anyone here experience with the Preform software for formlabs printers?

#

I am trying to import several 90 MB STL files, but everytime when I reach +2 files it does not import any more files.

#

or crashes

opal shale
#

Doesn't look like a whole lot, it's just a enclosure for an oled screen and a esp8266 board

spiral wharf
mossy trail
smoky cosmos
#

I finished designing and making Gamecube case for a Raspberry Pi today! The files are here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539417

Since Nintendo is making mini versions of their classic consoles, I thought it'd be fun for the Gamecube to get the same treatment. This should be a fun and easy print as well, with even moderate settings it should only take a day or two of printing until it can be assembled. This has also been made to fit a Raspberry Pi B+, meaning you could easily turn it in to a Retropie console as well.

supple stratus
#

@smoky cosmos Great work, will share on blog + 3D hangout thank you for sharing! adabot

tribal egret
smoky cosmos
#

Honey, I did it again, I shrunk the Nintendo Console! This time it's a Wii and the files are here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2543640

This is my first console design for a Raspberry Pi case modeled after the Nintendo Wii. Just like the Wii, it has a door at the top to hide and access the USB and Ethernet ports.
To assemble the parts, you'll need four M3 screws that are 10-12mm long to attach the Pi mount and the USB port covers to the shell. You'll also need four M2.5 screws that are 5mm long below the head. This part is important since the tolerances on everything is a little tight. Speaking of tolerances as well it's important to print the door with little infill so it can flex in to place, if you're having trouble, try something like nylon or PETG instead.

rapid steppe
#

I love it.

boreal lava
#

That is really good!

tribal egret
#

@smoky cosmos AWESOME! Also I like that you kept the CD slot as a plug, can print that with something transparent and hook up lights 😄

#

make it glow blue like the OG wii 😄

violet needleBOT
wraith saddle
#

@tribal egret is that Pi Zero case something you designed, or readily available STL?

tribal egret
#

This is my Pi Zero Case designed mainly to hold my Pi Zero W , but also works with the normal Pi Zero as well with wifi dongles.
Its designed to allow the Pi to just slide in and the power cord keeps it in place. As it uses a sleeve to hold the Pi it also means it is quite robust and doesnt break mounting lugs and also does not neeed screws or bolts to hold it in.
In addition, the top can take a Neopixel LED ring for added shazam and a rotary encoder as well if you want to have some input.
I've managed as well to fit an I2C audio amp and rectangular speaker inside as well. It all prints easily and the only trick is that i have printed the LED diffuser in PETG with 0% infill.
If you just want it as a case, then you can omit the light ring and I will be adding a knob replacement that is a snug fit so that it all fits nicely.
Hope you like it and it makes a change from the standard flat rectangles.

wraith saddle
#

oh sweet. I totally tried searching first, I promise 😃

tribal egret
#

@wraith saddle I don't mind fetching you the link 😃

violet needleBOT
rapid steppe
#

Oh, THAT'S what they called those lamps! I was tryin to figure it out for years.

cloud halo
#

Howdy 3D printing folks! I just picked up my first 3D printer Sunday at MakerFaire -- I got a Prusa i3 mk2S (kit). Figured I'd stop in and say hi!

analog mauve
#

sweet, heard a lot of good things about that one - curious to hear how you like it as I've got a printer on my wish list

cloud halo
#

@analog mauve Likewise, I heard a lot of good things too -- including Make Magazine last year during their 3D printer buyer's guide review. It won their Best Overall and Best Value.

I hope I like it too, but I need to get it assembled and calibrated first.

wraith saddle
#

@cloud halo I've had the MK2 for quite some time now. Happy to help if you have any questions

#

it's a great printer

brazen wolf
#

I'm hoping someone can help me with a problem I'm having. I'm using lucidia handwriting font in fusion 360, and when I go to extrude the model the letter "o" goes really funky when used in combination with any other letter and seems to be having some kind of meshing problem. Does anyone else have this problem and if so how do I fix it? Any help would be appreciated.

wraith saddle
#

@brazen wolf can you post a screenshot of the issue?

#

are you right clicking the text and clicking "Explode Text" before you try to extrude it?

wraith saddle
clear delta
#

@brazen wolf I don't have fusion 360, but when I use type in 3D programs, I usually type the text in a vector program like Illustrator, convert it to outlines/paths, and then import the paths into the 3D program to extrude (instead of typing live text in the 3D program). Could be something to try!

brazen wolf
#

@clear delta alright, I'll try that. Thanks

violet needleBOT
spare jewel
#

What is the best 3D printing companion other than OctoPrint/OctoPi?

wraith saddle
#

@spare jewel you're looking for alternatives to OctoPi?

#

Astroprint is another popular one

cloud halo
#

What's a 3D printing companion?

proven pond
#

@cloud halo guessing software that can send or monitor your 3D prints.

supple stratus
#

and there's also "all-in-one" slicer tablets like from matterhackers https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/mattercontrol-touch

shy kelp
#

Amyone have opinions on the Anet A6 3D Printer?

lost yoke
#

@shy kelp it looks like a prusa deriviative

cobalt quarry
#

I'm close to ordering a 3d printer and am looking at the Prusa i3 Mk 2 largely based on Make's writeup on it. Thoughts?

boreal lava
#

I don't know that model in particular, but I have one that is a similar design. My thoughts are that printers using that design are pretty common, so parts and upgrades are easy to find. It looks like a solid printer. One thing to keep in mind is that you WILL be printing upgrades and mods for it, so don't worry about getting a bunch of accessories. Half the time you'll remake them anyway once you get it up and running.

#

I went a lot cheaper with mine because of that. It was a lot more work on my end, but I knew I was just going to rebuild it anyway. Those look like good printers though.

tribal egret
#

@cobalt quarry have you looked at the new MK3?

summer lark
#

@cobalt quarry I am selling my Wanhao i3 it has been upgraded just has one issue I can't figure out

tribal egret
#

whats the issue @summer lark

summer lark
#

@tribal egret The extruder likes to turn off on its own. So unless I watch it and set the temp back before the temp drops I get a runied print

#

I replaced the heating element already

#

Could be firmware i suspose

tribal egret
#

mmhm check the connections too, could also be the board

summer lark
#

yeah I thought about replacing the controller completely

#

I have another printer micro3d from KS that works pretty good but small

#

I was going to sell the i3 and just use the M3D for awhile now that I live in a small place

cobalt quarry
#

@tribal egret I have not. It was the MK2S I was looking at.

tribal egret
#

@cobalt quarry i think its worth considering the newer model with it's improvements

#

@cobalt quarry "quieter" is probably the biggest thing for me esp. living in an apartment

cobalt quarry
#

@tribal egret Cool. I wasn't aware of it. Looking at it now. More expensive.. but still within reason.

#

@tribal egret I like quiet.

tribal egret
#

@cobalt quarry it runs on 24volts too and can print 2x as fast. I think its a decent upgrade

cobalt quarry
#

@tribal egret I just watched their video. Looks amazing. Their release timeframe is within my desired timeframe as well. Thanks for the tip.

tribal egret
#

@cobalt quarry np 😄

tribal egret
#

features some new stuff in 3D printing...

serene laurel
#

Ok all you 3D printing gurus, I have 4 print pieces that all go together. They are made of PETG and i need them stuck together. Would Gorilla glue be an acceptable bonding agent or is there some better option? I also have gorilla glue in the form of hot glue

violet needleBOT
cold bronze
#

@serene laurel scigrip 4 would be the best for petg. It will make a chemical bond and work great.

fluid ridge
#

Woot! Got a ship notification from Prusa! My quad-filament extruder is on the way!!!! (Just wanted to share the excitement!)

shy kelp
#

I ordered the Anet A6 today w00t!

proper hare
#

Does anyone want to help me get grbl installed on my uno using my linux os?

#

This is where i am stuck at

#

Nvm i removed -b57600 and it worked!

#

I'm building a cd-rom 3d printer.. I know its gonna have a tiny print bed and not be able to handle much but if it works out i will build a much bigger and better one from purchased parts rather than scavenging stuff together

#

I also had to change the baud rate to 9600 on UGS. But now i am just waiting on the mail!

clear delta
#

@tribal egret I just watched that video and was about to link it here too - such cool stuff! That cmyk printer... want!

tribal egret
#

@clear delta so many different kinds! I want to try them all out at least once 😄

violet needleBOT
clear delta
#

Any idea what the average printer bed size for home 3D printers? Chopping up a big model to be printable by others, just wondering what dimensions I should shoot for... thinking somewhere between 6" - 8" per side?

#

I guess I can provide the whole object model too, a person could slice it to fit their printer as needed

small beacon
#

@clear delta Seen these a few times at Maker Faire http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150513-help-we-the-builders-to-3d-print-a-250-piece-giant-edgar-allen-poe-bust.html They might have determined the best crowdsourcing printer size. Go metric or else we don't have a clue what you are talking about 😃

clear delta
#

@small beacon ooh nice i hadn't seen those projects - cool idea!

clear delta
#

Shout out to good old hairspray, holding down my abs prints tonight 👏

violet needleBOT
low torrent
#

does anyone know of a good 3d printing shop that is in the philly area

small beacon
shy kelp
#

how good is the prusa i3

silent veldt
#

@shy kelp I saw the Make review that named it the printer of the year. Haven't gotten one myself.

timber niche
#

I have a cheap Chinese knock-off of a Prusa i3. I wish I had the real deal, especially the new mk3.

cobalt quarry
#

Yeah, @tribal egret turned me on to the MK3. It's a nice looking machine. I think it'll me my xmas gift to myself.

timber niche
#

Yeah, the mk3 looks great and impressively, it's only $50 more than the old mk2 price (which has now been reduced $100). For my first printer I wouldn't have been willing to spend that much, but now that I have one and like it, I want a better one.

cloud halo
#

@timber niche I'm building a brand new MK2S kit as we speak -- I would have held out for a MK3 kit, but I was at makerfaire and the Prusa folks offered me a really good deal on the last one they had onsite. Instant savings, no shipping/import costs.... made it really attractive.

#

After I get it working, I might be tempted to get the multi-material kit.

clear delta
#

oops I just had to take apart some 3d printed parts I had epoxied together, and I discovered a great way to do it: I used my jeweler's saw with a teeeeny blade to cut through the join and was able to just cut through the epoxy. The epoxy hadn't fully cured yet (only a couple of hours) so I was able to scrape it off, and the parts are completely unscathed. Yay!

cloud halo
#

What sort of jeweler's saw do you have? (amazon link, brand/model?), @clear delta

cloud halo
#

very cool, thank you

clear delta
#

and I think i was using a 2/0 blade

#

lemme check

#

yep 2/0

#

i think this only works for straight joins but kind of a miracle for getting those apart 😃

cloud halo
#

files this idea under "miracle worker" techniques ;)

vast salmon
#

for @glossy light talk about mystery boxes and that NFC chip last night i got idea how to hook parts together and are water resistant also. 3D printed parts and locking mechanism

timber niche
#

@cloud halo Cool. One advantage of the mk2 is the immediate availability of the multimaterial upgrade. That adds many more possibilities from cooler looking multicolor prints the the ability to use pva for disolvable supports.

glossy light
#

@vast salmon that sounds cool, tell us more!

vast salmon
#

@glossy light with NFC having part information and hal sensor so locking the connection with magnets when you assemble parts

vast salmon
#

@glossy light so it make more fun to build and it need to lock if it's correctly build so it make building magical

proven bay
mild tulip
#

I'd be curious if the Prusa Mk2s isnt a better option for just a bit more. Im weary of a 3D printer that illegally uses iron man on the front panel.

violet needleBOT
mild tulip
#

@cloud halo @timber niche Yeah I'm on that boat too. I'll get an MK3 down the line but for now... 599?? Thats an insane deal.

cloud halo
#

@mild tulip I actually paid $500 out the door for the MK2S. List was $599, but they did me a solid cash deal.

dense light
#

I designed and printed some parts for my robotics team. I'm gonna put them to use today.

violet needleBOT
violet needleBOT
vast salmon
#

@supple stratus @idle crest have you guys convert fbx files to stl?

supple stratus
#

@vast salmon MeshLab might be able to do it

vast salmon
#

I put fbx file from rosie to #show-and-tell and @stuck inlet was asked what could use it so

supple stratus
#

@shy kelp nice!

vast salmon
#

hmm @supple stratus you are mentioned wrong dude

supple stratus
#

@vast salmon ops, sorry! cool model, will take a look at when after shows 😃

#

fbx format is nice, could make a good talking point for 3ho next week

vast salmon
#

I was playing with paint3d and you can export several 3d files

vast salmon
small beacon
#

@vast salmon What is the Rosie-CI? I am guessing it is a 3D model but is it tied in to some virtual assistant as an avatar?

stuck inlet
#

@small beacon thats @vast salmon 's interpretation. We also have a Rosie CI that continuously tests CircuitPython on actual hardware. Its not that reliabel at the moment though.

small beacon
#

ah, thanks, all these wondrous things people are working on

vast salmon
#

I am working on put that rosie coninuesly integration tester of Circuitpython to nanacontainer so it will run more reliable so that 3D model is kinda show that if the hardware is running Rosie CI then it show in mixed reality was you using AR like your ios or android device for example

#

@small beacon so I try to make a somekind of UI for Rosie and that is mixed reality UI or AR if you call it. so make that what @stuck inlet have being working on to able restart without restart hardware where it is from UX like that or if it have a monitor

#

@small beacon what i have tested it have being virtual 3D model in real world but it can be 3D printed for sure

small beacon
#

@vast salmon Thanks for the details. Always curious when something new pops up. NYC motto is "See something, say something."

vast salmon
#

@small beacon i looked rosie robot from jetsons to get it look similar ish

grim juniper
#

Would clear 3d printer filament work well for making light pipes for SMD LED's? Do light pipes need to be injection molded to work properly?

weary lichen
#

@grim juniper "Clear" 3D printing filament generally doesn't actually print clear

#

Due to the way most standard 3D printing works, it almost always ends up significantly more translucent.

#

That said, it might work to make some small light pipes, especially as it can act as a diffuser as well

serene quest
viscid kelp
#

Hey @here, i have a 3D printer, but my bed needs a replacement part and I can’t print it because my bed needs a replacement part. I don’t like ordering online because it ends up being like 50$ for like 1.50$ in pla

#

So I was wondering if anyone here has a 3D printer and can print a replacement part for me. I can pay like $15 in bitcoin or PayPal.

serene quest
#

I can't I having problems sorry, Do you know whats going on?

weary lichen
viscid kelp
#

Are you able to get closer up, better lit picture? @serene quest

serene quest
#

Alright

serene quest
grim juniper
#

@serene quest what's the material and can you get as close as you can to the thing without losing focus and not reduce the res? that's not even VGA res, let alone megapixel

serene quest
#

The material is PLA, but Its as much as I can zoom in, but I can see it, it feels rough to the touch, I'm not sure what the problem is but the extruder hits into it and the print fails

#

I'll take a horizontal photo

grim juniper
#

don't use the discord app to upload it, upload the pic to the pc and use that to upload

serene quest
#

Okay

#

its that okay

small beacon
#

is this the first time you printed this piece and has this problem ever happened before?

serene quest
#

I tried twice with this piece, first time I've had this problem

small beacon
#

there is a little edge lifting, maybe adhesion and the curl is messing up the alignment of the infill part?

grim juniper
#

PLA shouldn't lift like that. you may wanna try something to increase bed adhesion or even use a raft in CURA

serene quest
#

Odd. I think I found something, this is the layer it failed on both times

#

First photo - layer 37 Second photo - layer 36

small beacon
#

that may be a remnant of a shape used to model and the slicer made it a layer that has no support. you might need to clean up the model.

serene quest
#

you mean modify the stl?

small beacon
#

I don't know enough to go into the gcode or slicers to delete layers. But yeah, it was probably the bottom of a primitive that was invisible or not merged into the overall shape in the stl.

#

Maybe you could just increase the print layer thickness in your slicer and it may miss that layer when it generates the gcode.

serene quest
#

hmm, alright, btw its not my design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:394306

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_3qLa5GMoY&feature=youtu.be
Simple and compact setup that uses a 9g servo to push/pull a shaft in a linear fashion. Shaft was scavenged from an old CD player, though you can drill whatever size you want to suit your needs. Holes intended for self-screwing 4-40 screws.
Uses a Pololu Micro Maestro servo controller and a Popsicle stick to secure the micro-servo.
Find more info and discover some of my other projects at my blog: http://teamctrlaltdelete.weebly.com/
Questions about assembly? Just leave a comment.

small beacon
#

slice with a greater infill percentage, might make that x-grid big enough to support that layer. it'll take more time to print though.

serene quest
#

Alright I'll try some of your suggestions. Thank you so much!

grim juniper
#

triple check the bed is level too

small beacon
#

haha, I always take the level and put it on top of my kid's head to check if her head is level.

serene quest
#

Yeah the bed height is perfect, I just use masking tape on the bed and the print sticks reeally well

grim juniper
#

is it a heated bed?

#

what's your infill %?

serene quest
#

10% with heated bed at 50c

grim juniper
#

20% is the lowest I set infill for most things, unless a lack of rigidity is a benefit, like a practice model

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus @idle crest Lumia 950/950XL can charge other device while wireless charging

serene quest
#

hmm alright

#

thanks @grim juniper I'm new to this 😛

grim juniper
#

@serene quest so am I, relatively speaking, so I can only speak to my own experience and the advice I have received in the past to fix my own prints and to economize on material and print time

uncut ledge
#

@viscid kelp where the heck do you live that PLA is $50 a kg

viscid kelp
#

What the heck is a kg

#

Lmao

#

I know what kg is but can’t think of actual weight

grim juniper
#

a kg is 2.2lbs

grim juniper
#

1.75mm, 1Kg, = 1/16", 2.2 lbs, for a typical PLA roll

#

don't know what 300 metres is in miles, but 400 metres is a quarter mile

shy kelp
#

I want to build a thing using a shift register (i think)

proper hare
#

So to activate spindle with a transistor i need pin 12 right? After trying several different transistors i decided to check for voltage coming from pin 12. There is none. When i toggle the spindle on grbl controller it does nothing to pin 12.

#

Does anyone know how to fix this.. I am using grbl version .8

cobalt quarry
#

I’m probably going to order a Prusa i3 mk3 kit next week. Just a heads up that I will probably have a seemingly endless stream of questions once it shows up. 😃

proper hare
#

Ok i got it figured out.. The video said oin 12 but apparently 11 and 13 control the spindle

uncut ledge
#

mk3 is a nice machine, worried it's a wee bit too smart though

#

if you needed more help with that tag me or find the 3dprinters discord group

cobalt quarry
#

Well, I just want to be able to make things without too much fuss and bother. Mainly enclosures for my various hardware projects.

uncut ledge
#

might want to start off throwing together an ikea enclosure for it if you want to print medium to large ABS parts

violet needleBOT
cloud halo
#

Longer I'm around, the more I realize that robots are friendly and our "monsters" are just grossly misunderstood. They just need a friend and a hug.

small beacon
#

@cloud halo You could volunteer at "Foster's Home for Imaginary Friends"

clear delta
#

Heating error! Need a new thermocouple for my Makerbot Replicator 2x ☹️

supple stratus
#

here's that wall mount for adafruit's 2020 t-slotted extrusion https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2606216

This is a simple wall mount adapter designed for Adafruit's 2020 Aluminum Extrusion. Designed in Autodesk's Fusion 360. I'm using the extrusion to hang a few of my hats on my wall. STL of the extrusion profile is included for TinkerCAD and other software that doesn't natively support solidworks.
Fusion 360 Source
http://a360.co/2lg7fb0
Slotted Aluminum Extrusion - 20mm x 20mm - 610mm long
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1221
Mark Kenworthy's GrabCAD
https://grabcad.com/library/adafruit-2020-extrusion-profile-1

supple stratus
glossy light
#

that's a cool hat rack, @supple stratus !

grim juniper
#

$299AUD 3D printer on sale Wednesday 1st of November!

grim juniper
#

ALDI has been rebadging Wanhao 3D printers for years and it looks like this one is also another rebadge

viscid kelp
#

Overpriced

proper hare
#

I 💘 3d printing!

vast salmon
cloud halo
proper hare
#

If anyone ever makes a 3d printer with a 3d pen keep in mind it takes a second for the filament to come out after starting the motor so you need to add a small dwell period after each motor start. Also out of the 3 colors of abs it came with blue works the best. The gold and silver seem to bubble up after extruding with visible bubbles inside. I'm not sure if that can fixed by adjusting the temp on the gun. But yea

grim juniper
#

bubbling ABS is due to moist fillament. did it also put out puffs of steam? if so, then moisture confirmed...

torn bramble
boreal lava
#

Just trying out fusion 360 for the first time with making prints (only used it for cnc before). This is worlds better than the hoops I was jumping through before. I love being able to do parametric designs while prototyping with cnc, and I think it is even better with printing. Making tiny changes to one parameter and seeing the whole thing self adjust is so cool.

#

also nice to be able to pototype at home on the 3d printer, and use the same file for cutting on the CNC. Good grief I hated trying to do adjustments in the shop for cnc...ok, done now.

boreal lava
#

It's a base for a ws2812b led.

willow sedge
#

@boreal lava Nice!

boreal lava
#

yay! It even fits. Could lower the back side just a hair, but not bad for first try. 😃

boreal lava
#

Protype done. The LED mounts in perfectly with slots for the wires on either side. If anyone is interested, I'll post the files.

willow sedge
#

Looks great, @boreal lava! I don't have a 3d printer or I'd be all over it.

bright olive
#

New to 3D printing here, quick question on the basics: say I want to diffuse an LED; will colored PLA work or should I get un-dyed "natural" or is there a specific type I want?

uncut ledge
#

natural or "clear" PLA

bright olive
#

If it looks a bit yellow on the spool, will it tint the LED noticeably when printed?

uncut ledge
#

no, assuming you dont want white LEDs

#

zyltech clear has good transmission without the yellowness of natural PLA

bright olive
#

Neat. Thanks for the advice!

vast salmon
#

here is one way to do 3D printing as minecraft is part of makecode and also circuit playground is there so why not compine them with game design so here is a tip for how to do it in windows https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtE7t8zj9WM

This week's highlights include Minecraft and Remix 3D, and new Microsoft Edge Extensions. For more details, check out the Windows Blog at https://blogs.windo...

▶ Play video
proper hare
#

@grim juniper the filament prob had moisture i didnt notice any steam but there was no desiccant in the bag. I used it all trying to get the feeds and speeds down so now I'm waiting on more. But i am definitely hooked and plan on upgrading very soon. What is the best hotend/extruder to get?

uncut ledge
#

depends on the printer

grim juniper
#

the dryer they talk about may even help

boreal lava
#

Quick video I made showing one way to create a customizeable LED ring for 3D printing using Fusion 360 and parameters. There's probably loads of other ways to do it, but this is what I am using for a project, and thought some folks may find it useful as well.

Wasn't sure if I should put this here or #show-and-tell

https://youtu.be/kD5B0iYc_b4

Just a quick video of how I make things like LED rings using Fusion 360. It's a pretty simple process that uses parameters rather than directly inputting val...

▶ Play video
serene quest
#

newbie question: how do I remove prints from the print surface(in my case blue tape) without ripping up the tape

shy kelp
#

Is the bed heated? @serene quest

tribal kraken
#

Rubbing Alcohol ! Maybe.....

grim juniper
#

what I've noticed is that a 55degC bed is stickier than a 50deg C bed

#

also, using a raft makes things come off much easier

#

I still use the buildtak that came with my printer though, if that makes any difference

serene quest
#

heated at 50C

uncut ledge
#

I️ print at 63 on glass

#

Are you trying to take the part off right after printing?

small beacon
#

The answer would be "Get a big roll of blue tape". I even use up the kid's supply of glue stick to coat the print area on the blue painters tape to ensure that the first layer sticks. The tape is sacrificial and will only stick to the metal bed for one or two prints before heat gums up the adhesive under and make it all wrinkly. I have those plastic scrapers and a metal putty knife to dig into a loose spot and pry up around the stuck piece.

uncut ledge
#

painters tape is outdated unless you have an unheated bed imo

small beacon
#

but it is the cheap alternative to getting a nice fancy buildplate and even the polymide tape to fit the platform.

bright olive
#

welp, I just built the first subassembly of my first 3D printer, the hotend and extruder assembly

uncut ledge
#

it's like $10 for four pieces of glass cut to size

#

it should be cheaper in the long run, let alone so much less work

vast salmon
#

@supple stratus you can import FBX file to fusion 360

#

@glossy light as you use rhino same situation work too for fusion 360 as need to import files via Datapanel so you must be online

supple stratus
#

@boreal lava great tutorial! will share it on blog and today on 3DHO :_)

sharp wave
#

Hmmm. My Taz6 keeps spagettifying prints because when the filament comes out the nozzle, it always seems to curve up and to the right a lot... Any ideas on what might be causing this from y'all? Maybe a clog in the hot end?

idle crest
#

yup, sounds like a clog 😦

sharp wave
#

Gotcha. First time it has happened to me. Welp. Off to YouTube to figure out how to fix it! Thanks @idle crest

boreal lava
#

awesome! Thanks @supple stratus Glad you liked it

violet needleBOT
merry cobalt
#

hey all

whole sphinx
#

hey sizoSlm

obsidian cape
#

the boombox was a great idea. for a more advanced project, they should have a touchscreen and internet radio abilities. that would be epic

wraith elm
#

Wonder if the pi can handle running kivy... It'd be easy to write a little touch interface with that.

boreal lava
obsidian cape
#

ohhh thanks 😂

#

@boreal lava

amber wolf
#

I've pretty much given up with my prusa i3 mk2. Got it November last year. Barely got a decent print out of it. Fiddled with it for weeks. Wasted so much time trying to get stuff printed properly. Results end up mediocre. I don't want to spend more money on it. Might just sell it off tbh

cold current
#

what sort of problems are you having with it?

amber wolf
#

At first it wasnt calibrating. Managed to fix that. Then prints were uneven with wavering patterning in the Base layers. That I can't see to fix. Then had trouble with models popping off mid print. Managed to get that more consistent, but still a PITA. Warping issues... Like, I fix one thing and something else breaks.

cold current
#

Sounds like issues with part adhesion...

amber wolf
#

I actually had prusa on email giving me tons of help, which helped with the bed sticking and calibration. Ive looked for troubleshooting tips everywhere. And Yeh I have seen this site

cold current
#

ok, no worries

amber wolf
#

Like, I think I'm done. I don't have the patience to deal with it anymore, you know?

cold current
#

Yeh, I know the feeling

amber wolf
#

I bought it as a kit. So built it myself. Maybe that was the beginning of my downfall..

cold current
#

Heh

#

Sounds about right

#

A good feeling when you construct something that functions correctly though...

amber wolf
#

Yeh. That's the frustrating thing. I have managed to print some things. Like the whistle. It prints, looks OK, works (loudly....). I printed the benchy boat thingy and aside from a couple layer issues, it looked really good. Maybe I expect more from it. I don't know.

#

Of course, the whistle and the boat are tiny. Trying to print something 10x the size... It won't finish 90 % of the time

cold current
#

That could be the case, successful 3D printing is sometimes more about the geometry than it is the hardware.

#

Especially the metal stuff

amber wolf
#

I ain't even touching that lol too much stress

cold current
#

Yeh, little bit too pricey and complex for the DIYer at this time

#

Especially since companies like Renishaw are designing their printers for materials like Inconel

#

Incredible material, but horrendously spendy and not suitable for 99% of DIY applications

#

Unless you are building a gas turbine

amber wolf
#

Lol

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Just asked my brother if he wants it. He said yes lol. He can deal with the stress lol

cold current
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Not the worse type of poisoned chalice... Could be worse

fluid ridge
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@cold current Inconel - or a nuclear reactor. Or a rocket engine.

cold current
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Or a turbocharger

fluid ridge
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(I believe SpaceX 3D prints with that....)

cold current
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Or a bunch of other high temperature, high stress applications

fluid ridge
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Yup....

cold current
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It's used by a huge number of companies

fluid ridge
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Is 3D printing with it as big a game changer as I imagine it is? I'm not really hooked into the materials engineering community.

cold current
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The material is a real pain to machine, so being able to 3D print it takes away a certain amount of that, I don't think it will represent a massive technological shift, but the ability to put more complex internal flow paths inside your turbine blades is pretty great.

fluid ridge
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@cold current Looking at your avatar picture. Is a one day late "happy birthday" in order?

cold current
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Errrr, sorry I don't quite understand what you mean....

fluid ridge
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Marine?

cold current
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It wasn't my birthday yesterday no

fluid ridge
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Yesterday was the Marine Corps 242nd birthday.... If you were a Marine a "happy birthday" would apply. 😃

cold current
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oh ok, no the picture is a British soldier

fluid ridge
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Ah, roger that. Couldn't tell.

cold current
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Yeh they are a little small...

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IIRC the guy in the image is an Engineer, from the REME.

bright olive
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Well, I've nearly finished the mechanical assembly for my Q3D OneUp kit. I can see why the kit was panned in reviews. It's a finicky build, and not every orientation-sensitive part is noted as such in the instructions.

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As it is, I'm going to need to drill two holes fairly precisely before I can finish

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That, or disassemble a part entirely just to flip the backplate around

boreal lava
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@bright olive I have the old TwoUp printer before they added the second screw. They are a bit tricky to get going, but they can produce some decent prints once you do. If you have any questions about it, maybe I can help

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My advice for a first part is a sturdier bracket for the bearings that tension the belt for moving the bed. That was the first part to fail for a lot of us. This is the one I used. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212989

All parts in STL format for easy printing (assuming you have a second printer). Will continue adding printable files here as needed, updating this description each time.
A) Base plate for One-Up/Two-Up printers that was missing from original Kickstarter kits (basicHEM_r3.stl).
B) Alternative for QU-BD's design of the Y-drive mechanism that adds some sturdiness, allows the belt guide to operate more smoothly. Replaces the entire Y-Drive mechanism (except for the bearings and bolts).
C) Spacer Plates for Two-Up printers to correct Z Screw misalignment. Just install under the linear bearings of the X Gantry system.

boreal lava
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Printable mount for a WS2128B LED that I made to attach to the bottom of my shelf, as well as to mount some lights under the lid of a storage chest.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644052

basic mount for a WS2812B led. I made this to add lighting to a small shelf, and a storage box. It snaps together, and the channel underneath leaves room for the wires to pass through, so you can use as many, or as few, leds as needed.

cobalt quarry
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OK, I'm about to order a Prusa i3 MK3. It comes one spool, but I want to get a couple/few more at the same time. I'm just starting with 3d printing... what do I want? ABS? PLA? Probably go with a simple white.

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My main usecase is printing cases/enclosures. Low stress parts.

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But I'd want a material that can do screw holes and not too easily strip once tapped.

cloud halo
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I'd go with PLA. It's more forgiving, and doesn't emit toxic fumes. Breathe deeply my friend!

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It's not as durable though.

boreal lava
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I wouldsay PLA at first. It's cheaper, a bit more forgiving with warpng/shrinkage, and honestly, you'll probably fritter away your first roll or two making silly things and calibrating.

cobalt quarry
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Looks about 10% cheaper.

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They claim their ABS resin is oderless.

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True about frittering it away 😃

boreal lava
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and what @cloud halo certainly said. PLA actually has a nice sweet smell to it. I just ordered somePLA at $16 a kilo. Haven't tried it yet, but will probably in the next few days

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I'll post back if it seems any good.

cobalt quarry
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Another thing... I have no concept of how long/much a 1kg spool lasts.

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I'm not even sure how to qualtify that.

boreal lava
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It will differ a bit from brand to brand, roll to roll, but one spool will get you through most extra printer parts you want to do, and some goofing off and calibrating.

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It actually goes a surprisingly long way.

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If you downloat some parts from thingiverse and slice them. The software should approximate how much filament is used. It will be volumetric or length, so translating that to 1kg roll gets a little tough

cobalt quarry
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The printer cpmoes with a 1 kg spool of silver. I figure a couple 1kg spools each of black & white.

boreal lava
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That will be more than enough.

cobalt quarry
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I do have some things queued up to be made. And just experimenting with printing and designing.

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Thanks.

boreal lava
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I just weighed one of those owl on a log things that everyone seems to print. It's about 9cm tall, and 31 grams, if that helps

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My basic extruder carriage is 20 grams

small beacon
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The biggest thing to get with a 3D printer is a lot of patience. It may take hours for one print depending on the size of the object, and that is if all goes well.

cobalt quarry
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@small beacon Yes, I did prints for physical mockups of mice a SteelSeries. That printer had some issues, too.

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Which is partly why I want the latest, greatest.

small beacon
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Hopefully they have dramatically improved print speeds and quality.

violet needleBOT
vast salmon
violet needleBOT
bright olive
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What the best way to fix a loose connector on a stepper? It's a JST XHP-4 looking thing. I don't have a crimp tool or a replacement. The connector just seems to sit loosely on a pin header without making contact, and the motor might make a "ka-chunk" rarely but mostly just does not work.

boreal lava
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@bright olive could you try clipping the wire and soldering on a standard female jumper wire or header?

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I'm not sure of your current requirements, or the capacity of the wires you may have, but it may work if they both are compatible.

vital cipher
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@bright olive hotglue

bright olive
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I ended up finding a stacking header that worked

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also, I forgot to update

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I was mistaken, the loose connector was fine. Loose, but made contact

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the Z axis problem was that there were two Z motor connectors, and apparently the motor was on the wrong one

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and it couldn't fit on the other one without an extension

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connector too big

bright olive
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That big glop tower toward the rear is a layer or two, AFAICT

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I'll try again in a bit at a slower print speed, but noob check: does that look like anything in particular needs a tweak?

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The first ten or so layers look good...

rapid steppe
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It looks like your printer went through a seizure halfway through, my god.

cloud halo
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Did you feed your 3D printer after midnight?

violet needleBOT
boreal lava
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@bright olive It looks like under extrusion. Could be a clog, low feed, improperly calibrated Z, etc.....loads of causes

bright olive
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eck. I'll have to fiddle with it more tomorrow

boreal lava
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did you measure your axis movements and extrusion?

bright olive
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I mean, I zero'd it, and the kit came with a preprogrammed Arduino/RAMPS board

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I used the factory design specs everything

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I'm doing a much smaller test print right now at a slower speed and it's looking significantly better so far

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I was probably asking it to go too fast

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hmm, I'm getting jerky Y-axis movement. I may have to take up slack on the belt

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Yep, slower print screws up pretty much only on jerky Y-axis movement

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extrusion build-up happens when very small Y movements don't result in any actual motion of the bed

covert warren
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any of you have a formlabs 3d printer?

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I don't have one, just wondering

bright olive
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Looks like I also have a little float in the X positioning. Probably resistance from the filament, since this printer doesn't have a spindle yet

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Yeah, moving the bed (Y-axis) by 1mm segments, after about 10mm, it goes nada-nada-nada-jerk 4mm, repeat

boreal lava
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Do those still ship with the printrboard?

bright olive
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I have a Q3D OneUp, which shipped with an Arduino Mega 2560 and a RAMPS 1.4

boreal lava
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I have the q3d (qu-bd back then) two-up. Same frame, just a bit larger. It shipped with a geetech printrboard

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Q3D has changed their name several times

bright olive
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This is a OneUp V2 kit that was on closeout from Micro Center. Apparently the hardware across revisions isn't very stable, either

boreal lava
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Yeah, it's not too bad though once you get everything dialed in

bright olive
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I'm glad I did a build-it-yourself for my first printer, but I'll be honest.... I'm not upgrading this thing. When it's time to get a bigger/better printer, it will be an entirely different printer

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plus I feel really dumb because after 2 years of looking for one nearby, a makerspace finally opened like 1/2 a mile from me and they've got a bunch of makerbots

boreal lava
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Oh sure, but it's worth printing a new x gantry for it, and that tensioner on the y axis will very likely fail on you

bright olive
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could've just brought some filament there instead of getting my own machine

boreal lava
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I was just checking to see if I could find the old calibration guide, but they seem to have taken those forums down.

bright olive
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ech. I'm still on gross troubleshooting right now, but if you do happen across that guide again, I'd be grateful

boreal lava
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I'll check. I can screenshot my settings if you like. That may give you a good start. It should mostly be the same except bed dimensions

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The one-up shouldn't be as bad, but one problem you will likely hit is that the gantry will sag on the side not supported by a lead screw, and leads to inconsistent height

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printing a new gantry helps

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just found their new forums. Since 2009 there have been 16 posts...including replies. They don't have any of the old content

bright olive
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Well, I'm glad my standards are low

boreal lava
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@bright olive I did find the Marlin Firmware we used. I'm not sure if it is the same that would be used on a ramps board, but it was loaded with a pretty solid set of defaults https://github.com/QU-BD/Up-Marlin

bright olive
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Marlin is what's already on the board, but I don't know if it's the latest version

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I actually saw that when I went looking for firmware updates, but it looked like it wasn't idiot-proofed, so I held off

boreal lava
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I'll bet you anything you have that firmware. They had a habit of taking community projects (e.g. all of their assembly instructions), and use them without any attribution whatsoever

bright olive
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Geez

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though there was actually an attribution line in the electronics assembly manual :v

boreal lava
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For your original issues. Two things to do. Set your nozzle pretty low, and measure the height. Then tell it to move up 100mm, and measure again. If that is off, it will produce the prints that seem to get "looser" the higher up they go. Do the same with your filament. Measure 100mm back from your extruder and mark it. Then feed 100mm through, and measure where the mark is. If they are off, you will need to adjust your firmware settings.

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Oh, they ma have added that in then. Good on them if the did

bright olive
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ah, okay. That sounds easy enough

steep flame
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hey there guys. i am getting back a loaned off BFB 3d touch printer in a few days, and want to make it better than it ever was. the first of these modifications being a better system for getting prints to work. currently, you have to use a piece of software created by them called axon to create .bfb files that the printer can then run. there are a few things about this i want to change: 1. axon is a piece of alpha software that hasn't been updated in multiple years. running it on windows 10 causes the system to crash instantaniously when you try and do anything, therefore i would not want to get prints running. 2. being able to run gcode on the printer would be much easier as it opens up a larger range of usable software and would allow me to slice better than their software probably ever could. 3. i would like to use octoprint on a raspberry pi once i get the printer, and i don't believe that the current system for giving the printer files would work with octoprint. anyone have any suggestions on modifying the printer to run gcode? here is the manual: http://cubify.s3.amazonaws.com/public/bfb/3dtouch_setup_operations_manual.pdf , this is all you can find for the printer as it is now known as a legacy printer and has been discontinued. sorry if this sounds confusing or is very simple, i am new to 3d printing and i am trying to learn more as i go.

small beacon
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@steep flame Looks like a nice 3D printer. I'm guessing that the proprietary software is not open source so you might have a tough time to first decipher what that .bfb file type is all about first before you can convert it to something useable by more common systems. The real hack would be to see what controller board it is using and maybe reflash that or even replace it to get it working. Good luck.

boreal lava
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@steep flame I'm not super familiar with that printer, but like @small beacon mentioned, if the hardware matches some common hardware, you may be able to reflash it to use something else.
If not, that style of printer is not uncommon. As long as you know the current requirements of the steppers so you can get the correct motor controllers, setting it up with another board should be prett straightforward. Most, if not all, should support that style of printer.

bright olive
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What the heck am I supposed to do when suddenly travelling 50 mm produces a 100mm movement and everything just gets fudged up and the printer prints off the bed?

grim juniper
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@bright olive you should make a video recording of it so people can see what you are and are not describing

bright olive
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That's fair. I was venting out of frustration mainly, but I got a (temporary?) fix in and I'm gonna wait and see how this print goes

bright olive
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That was an incredibly temporary fix, as it turns out. After about four layers, it completely flipped out, spewed more filament on its own mechanism, and then got stuck on the bottom and left sides of this attempted print https://i.imgur.com/UEJhhMI.jpg

viscid kelp
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Make sure your object isn’t bigger than print bed

bright olive
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It wasn't. It got significantly distorted

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anyway, I returned the kit for a refund

cloud halo
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@bright olive Which kit was that?'

bright olive
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Q3D OneUp

modern nacelle
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just joined this server, sad to see there's not to much talk about 3D printing

viscid kelp
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I have the Q3D ThreeUp. Got it on amazon. I’ve had it for over a year and a half so I don’t think I can return

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But I haven’t gotten it to work yet 😦

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Many problems

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I’m close

pale python
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Jim, are you printing ABS?

modern nacelle
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Sometimes, I prefer PETG though

pale python
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Ah, how is the strength on that? Trying to get snap fit components working, just tried a few times with PLA and unfortunately they have the "snap" part working