#Flow - Born from an E5Pro

4925 messages · Page 5 of 5 (latest)

formal marsh
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nope sold those

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I'll get a manta or another skrat

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(maybe manta with cm4)

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more compact considering the printer footprint

proud marsh
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wow! you are so efficient on cleaning up after yourself.. I was thinking to buy the frame for the beta enclosure and sell the old ender 5 if I manage to rebuild it somehow… but it looks like a lost cause… I’ll probably do it when I build the smolZG first

proud marsh
formal marsh
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did not

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link?

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but if it's like their other fly boards I'll pass

formal marsh
proud marsh
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there is also a version with regular drivers

formal marsh
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with those drivers it's a no for sure

proud marsh
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than the fly d5

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has regular drivers

proud marsh
formal marsh
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i'll wait on reviews

proud marsh
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but the one with the PCI style drivers is cheaper 😅

formal marsh
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but getting tied to a specific design...

proud marsh
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I guess they want people to buy the version that locks them in with mellows style drivers

formal marsh
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status: everything tested isolated (still need to home), endstops ok, bed ok, steppers ok, entire toolhead functions ok

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next step rewire the TR for it's board

formal marsh
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TR is rewired, need to flash the new board and test

reef hamlet
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@formal marsh saw your comment about the omnibox. Was it worth?

reef hamlet
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Cool! Did you also make an enclosure for your printer?

reef hamlet
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Oh I thought you went and bought acrylic panels haha

formal marsh
formal marsh
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NEW THR ARRIVES TODAY

formal marsh
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oh CAN oh CAN

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love it when it works

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hate when it doesnt

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time to recheck all wires

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120ohm is correct

formal marsh
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ok wrong pins configured on skrat

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now find why it shuts down

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ADC out of range yet all temps seem fine on the logs

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one thermistor wire just broke

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so that can be it

formal marsh
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nope

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I'm clueless

formal marsh
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taking katapult out to check

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enclosure thermistor

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now to find why its bork

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fucked up a wire

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at least everything else works

formal marsh
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IT'S ALIVE!

tired pike
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show it man!!

formal marsh
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let me eat something 😅 I was hungry but kept delaying

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(yup I can be that obsessed)

formal marsh
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one more thing to do, I split the dual 5015 in 2 fan ports so need to figure how to merge them in klipper

formal marsh
formal marsh
pale yoke
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stop, you're making me want to upgrade my horrible stock creality heatbed

formal marsh
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@pale yoke

formal marsh
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💸

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get a voron bed

pale yoke
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I've only just got my printer up and running enough for me to be satisfied to print again

formal marsh
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it might be cheaper 😛

pale yoke
formal marsh
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that reminds me need to share my adapters

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today is the day

pale yoke
formal marsh
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there you go

pale yoke
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Awesome thanks!

formal marsh
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zerog TODO zerog

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking (delaying this one until next release maybe)
Install Mellow Easy BRD on TR ✅
Print at least 2 ERCP for the TR/rewinders need to choose
Print SUAFT/something else with HEPA

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finally getting smaller

formal marsh
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FOUND WHY MY Z OFFSET FLOATS

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so, doing a sexbolt repeatability test gives good results, same with the probe ones, since those are stable what's the remaining variable? the way klicky/unklicky attaches so I ran a different test, attach klicky do a probe repeatability test, dock klicky
on 10 tests got between 16.198 and 16.05, so a difference of 0.148 wayyy too much

formal marsh
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accepting ideas

formal marsh
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might have forgotten to glue the magnets, I don't think I ever did most of the times

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yep, took them off, added glue now need to wait

proud marsh
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I don’t think the glue would make a difference, if they stayed on, it means they were firmly attached to things

pale cloak
formal marsh
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meanwhile since glue starts setting pretty quick ran 2 tests

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attach, 10 probes, dock - 10.times
then calculated range etc using the probes averages (final from each test)
both times range is around 0.01

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need to run a few more

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std dev 0.004

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seems acceptable

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again .01 range .003 std dev

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I think I'll risk a print

late veldt
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Since you're running both a sexbolt and klicky, presumably you're running auto-z, so why does the z offset floating matter? Due to the way the calculation works, the only factor that should matter is the switch offset (which doesn't change) right?

pale cloak
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the switch is not returning consistent samples

late veldt
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Ah that makes sense

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Maybe I'll check the variation after docking/undocking on mine too, I just figured the slight differences were down to slight temperature variation within the enclosure, but I too don't have the magnets glued

proud marsh
# late veldt Ah that makes sense

because during the procedure you dock-undock thenprobe several times, every time you re-dock the probe you might have a slight different offset. Apparently glueing makes a big difference

proud marsh
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to be fair, 0.2mm is a very small wobble for eyeballing with our senses. so it’s quite possible that without glue thing move slightly

formal marsh
# late veldt Since you're running both a sexbolt and klicky, presumably you're running auto-z...

in theory it should not matter indeed, even more because on a print I attach and run everything without reattaching, and all the measurements are made relative to nozzle+unbolt+unklicky, my suspicion is that sometimes during those measurements there is a slight change on the probe attachment, that is enough to throw off the calculations, remember we probe the bed a lot (z tilt, mesh, z calibration) and then klicky body also touches the sexbolt, somewhere in the middle changes may occur, 0.14 range variation is small but enough to mess a first layer, I'm expecting that now that measured range is 0.01 things get more stable

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also I'm only probing the bed once

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since the start print flow is already long and klicky repeatability tests showed good results I ended up setting only one probe

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if it seems to show up again I'll try to set 2 probes and see if it improves

late veldt
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Ah I see, I take the median of 5 probes, same idea of doing everything without reattaching, 0.14 is indeed pretty high, I'm sometimes seeing variation of ~0.05

formal marsh
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those 0.14 were between attach/reattach

late veldt
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I've been thinking about maybe getting a bdsensor so the klicky is only for auto-z but so far, with 3x3 adaptive bed meshing, unless I'm doing lots of short prints, the time taken is tolerable to me

late veldt
formal marsh
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that is a good value

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let's see, got chamber heating up

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offset seems good now but was done cold, hot should not matter but I want to double check

formal marsh
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so probe switch offset is wrong when the printer is hot, not making sense

plucky plume
formal marsh
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if it was really probe yeab

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wrong name, its the switch offset

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unless magnets are not enjoying the heat

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as auto z should handle thermal expansion

proud marsh
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My magnets (cheap amazon) hate the heat, I’m replacing them asap

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Meaning within few months 😅

formal marsh
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re-adjusting everything with it hot

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and see how it goes

proud marsh
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I always readjust the offset with a 1 layer 200x200 square. I do it once I change something on the probe

formal marsh
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I'm lazy

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I just use a .25mm shim

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found my problem

proud marsh
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I’m waiting for people to adopt strain gauge in klipper

formal marsh
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that thing is from the duct

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so more glue is in order

formal marsh
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fuck me, the glued magnet decided to come off the duct

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need to remove it from the toolhead

pale yoke
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I had similar struggles, what glue are you using. I was using the wrong glue before, plasticglue. It only really stuck to the printed part and not the magnet.

formal marsh
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yep that thing

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but I don't have any CA right now

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for plastics it's good, doesn't damage like CA

pale yoke
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yeah don't think that will bond well with magnets, maybe rough them up a bit on the side there will be glue?

formal marsh
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good point I'll try it out

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might try a different one just for now maybe I can find one slightly larger

formal marsh
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sooo none is larger

tired pike
formal marsh
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they seem to be good now

serene relic
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You wouldn't by any chance be interested in sharing this would you?

formal marsh
formal marsh
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looks like it's back

formal marsh
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saving these for reference accel_per_hz: 75

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now its 100

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and now 150

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@raven cliff quick test done with the ADXL on the toolhead I didn't bother to get the other out of the box and set it up

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it actually suggests lower accel

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and lower frequencies

raven cliff
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interesting

formal marsh
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ressurecting thread with a small update

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ignore warping, but extrusion is quite uneven, ordered integrated gear from fysetc, should arrive tomorrow.
finally building the SUAFT as well parts are ordered too

pale yoke
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What extruder do you have?

formal marsh
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Relisting so I don't forget

zerog TODO zerog

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking (delaying this one until next release maybe)
Too many options on rewindera and buffers currently can't decide what to use on the TR
Print SUAFT 🕑 (parts ordered)
Model new sherpa body with fixed idler, filament sensor and ECAS for the new gears

raven cliff
late veldt
formal marsh
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and decide from those

late veldt
formal marsh
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not understanding the jerky part really

late veldt
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I looked it up, the issue is potentially causing the encoder to mess up

formal marsh
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well not an issue on TR,first no encoder

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and I don't really see how the ratchet of the rewinder can put any feedback on the encoder if the encoder lives after the gears

late veldt
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Probably by causing slippage, particularly when not running the gear motor in sync with the extruder

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But huh, wasn't aware the tradrack doesn't use an encoder, does it operate "blindly" wrt filament lengths to feed?

formal marsh
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I like it before as its better to detect if an badly shaped tip got stuck in the extruder when unloading or if the filament reached the extruder when loading

late veldt
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Ah I see, seems a lot less overcomplicated than ercf lol, I guess that explains the inspiration for the belay

formal marsh
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belay is to help keep TR and extruder in sync

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a more brute and cheaper approach compared to encoder

late veldt
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Yes, what I mean is that since TR doesn't have an active feedback mechanism on lengths, it needs the belay to compensate, while ercf didn't seem to need it, with the software only recently having added support for it

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I'll definitely have to build a TR at some point

formal marsh
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for sync yep, still I'm running mine with sync and no issues

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no belay

late veldt
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Oh I see

formal marsh
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an alternative is to every layer change raise and lower TR servo for example

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while not even disabling sync

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also works, but I found I don't need that

late veldt
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I see, I have the belay configured, but haven't really noticed any difference either, I see the rate adjustments in the log but haven't really looked at them properly to see if the adjustments are meaningful

formal marsh
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new gears arrived, want to make a print before and one after, same gcode so not installing yet

formal marsh
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testing before new gears

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nothing which is weird

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ignore corners that's too fast to properly cool

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aaand I'm running the test the wrong way

pale yoke
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@formal marsh are those pictures all from the same print?

formal marsh
pale yoke
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so what made the inconsistent layer lines to come back?

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I'm also struggling with them but I'm also still running stock Z

formal marsh
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from first to second, a little faster, thinner layera

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got another on the bed to check that I printed yesterday late night

formal marsh
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now here can be see properly, next step swap gears and reprint this one

pale yoke
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Interested in the result with a gear change!

formal marsh
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so am I, will disassemble sherpa in a moment

formal marsh
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new gears finnally in, printing

pale yoke
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Fystec gears right?

formal marsh
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yep posting photos in a sec

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fysetc integrated gears, not perfect but

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and side by side

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not perfect but better indeed

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same exact gcode, same filament

late veldt
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does make me wonder how one might get it even closer to flawless

formal marsh
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I'll take a photo of the same side of the piece side by side, some of the remaining artifacts seem to be the same on both parts which might imply the source is something else

late veldt
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yeah I had a feeling it might end up involving scraping the bottom of the barrel to get everything else near flawless

formal marsh
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I'm willing to blame leadscrews next if there are artifacts that match on both, even more on a second print with the new gears

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next step (and easiest) is to attempt changing to fixed gear sherpa, I'll use the opportunity to also add an ECAS and built in sensor, this one adds too much height even though I like it separate

raven cliff
late veldt
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ooh interesting

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so it 'fixes' the idler gear in place? (I'm not sure what you mean by angle adjustment)

formal marsh
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that one due to the gear wear I'm not fond of trying it

proud marsh
formal marsh
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orbiter is closer I believe

late veldt
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or that one extruder that uses belts

formal marsh
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papilio

late veldt
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Oh right, yeah, papilio, I think it had some experimental fully printed version, might give that a try for fun

formal marsh
late veldt
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Ah nvm, wasn't fully printed, what I was thinking of was a failed experiment to have some of its gears printable (from their discord)

formal marsh
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I considered it but a few things stopped me, one of them being the gears prices

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it has some printed gears but the ones that drive the filamennt are LGX

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or toothed idlers or something

late veldt
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Yeah, bit more of an investment for just an experiment

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It's also probably much heavier

formal marsh
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also no sensor

raven cliff
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Imo Galileo 2 with an integrated drive gear would be almost perfect
Planetary gearbox to reduce/remove any backlash between stepper and drive gear
Big Single drive gear to remove backlash between the dual drive gears
And integrated drive gear to remove offset

formal marsh
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now same side

raven cliff
formal marsh
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hmm shaky photo

raven cliff
late veldt
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Ahh

raven cliff
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The fysetc helical gears are pretty close to perfect imo
Low weight and low wood grain

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there is also another reason for wood grain which even the best extruder couldnt remove:
inconsistent filament diameter

formal marsh
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good point

raven cliff
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so imo getting the fysetc gears is good (since the price is also really fair imo)
Personally I wouldnt get a genuine ridga again
way more expensive while actually being slightly worse than the fysetc ones (well with the LynxSherpa they were a tad better, like 0.1% but I guess they will wear down in one year and I'm not gonna buy a 40€ gear set every year for that little of an improvement)

formal marsh
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for under 17€ the gears are damn great

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I'm happy with the improvement, I want to try the fixed idler next because I also want to integrate sensor and ECAS into it

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someone at Annex made one but uses switch with lever and I want to try without

raven cliff
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especially since they should have more wear resistance (a mate of mine used their standalone ones in his vyper and he prints a lot of abrasives, he said the nano coated fysetc gears lasted way longer than the original vyper gears)

raven cliff
proud marsh
late veldt
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Looking at the fysetc gears, they don't have the "curve" on the filament grooves, like these have
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLA3iK2 unsure if they're meaningful though

raven cliff
late veldt
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Oh?

raven cliff
late veldt
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Ah I see

formal marsh
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I got these

late veldt
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Ordered

formal marsh
late veldt
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Ikr lol, recently discovered the ender ng from here and now I have to convince myself to not immediately jump on building it

gleaming whale
formal marsh
late veldt
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Haha yeah, you mentioned that dilemma

formal marsh
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sorry I'm repetitive

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wait this is my log, I can do whatever I want here!

gleaming whale
formal marsh
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it would be easy to wait if there wasn't any discount on the base kit

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self sourcing it is actually more expensive 🤷

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but the discount is roughly 150e

formal marsh
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soooo unklicky started misbehaving

late veldt
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oh? in what way

formal marsh
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probe accuracy results: maximum 16.050000, minimum 15.992500, range 0.057500, average 16.023000, median 16.022500, standard deviation 0.017529

late veldt
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ouch

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maybe something came loose?

formal marsh
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usually there's another 0 to the right of the dot

late veldt
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is this the bfp version?

formal marsh
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yup

late veldt
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huh, wouldn't expect that design's pin to loosen up

formal marsh
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it's like 10 good samples stupid consistent, then one wayyy off

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let me see if I can get a snippet of the log

late veldt
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maybe something else came loose?

formal marsh
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had duct screws loose, also was missing one 😅

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but didn't fix it

late veldt
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oof

formal marsh
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running new test

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cant find the log

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this shit

late veldt
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yeah that feels like the pin wiggle I had in my non-bfp unklicky

formal marsh
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time to print another

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2 actually

gleaming whale
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Do one as a bfp-hs

formal marsh
gleaming whale
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Seems like it’s time for unklicky-00?

formal marsh
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ehhh too bulky

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probe accuracy results: maximum 15.800000, minimum 15.727500, range 0.072500, average 15.771800, median 15.772500, standard deviation 0.015887
Disassembled and reassembled same shit, wrap up this filament calibration and print a new one

gleaming whale
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I’m going to start stuffing with load cells

formal marsh
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I'm waiting on those to be widely available

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impl klipper side is work in progress

formal marsh
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probe accuracy results: maximum 0.180000, minimum 0.037500, range 0.142500, average 0.093700, median 0.061250, standard deviation 0.054576 now the unbolt WTF

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I'm so close to drop the money on the bacon

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new test unbolt now good again, unklicky messed up, and I have no idea where I put the switch of the original klicky

raven cliff
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from my experience this happens when the magnets are not seated properly and the probe can wiggle

formal marsh
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meanwhile found old d2f klicky will test it, can help print new ones

formal marsh
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d2f one works good enough, I'll print new unklicky

formal marsh
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I'm actually surprised this went so good, put the old klicky, heat up, adjust switch offset for this probe, send print and forgot

formal marsh
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well I'm dumb

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new unklicky:
probe accuracy results: maximum 15.510000, minimum 15.500000, range 0.010000, average 15.506620, median 15.507500, standard deviation 0.001605

the problem with the old one? has an M3x12 which is too short and was wiggling when probing... new has a longer one with 16mm a little too long but works damn good
old unklicky with longer screw:
probe accuracy results: maximum 15.985000, minimum 15.975000, range 0.010000, average 15.980050, median 15.980000, standard deviation 0.001968

raven cliff
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you technically need m3x13
so basically get a m3x16 and cut it

formal marsh
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yeahhh that's what I get for not reading the spec and thinking the 12 would work, 13 will still be short due to the amount of wire I use, I just hacked the back to have a through hole

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will re-design later the STEP as I don't mind the little tip of the screw in the back and it actually secures better

raven cliff
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for UnklickyNG BFP the doc says m3x12, which is actually too short

formal marsh
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yep it is it's the one I use

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on the bright side now I have spares

proud marsh
formal marsh
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no room I think

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might check if I can fit a 3.6mm one

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3.6x3 actually

proud marsh
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maybe a hex nut or something. but I understand it’s in theory a set and forget screw that one… If something is off, you print another one anyway

formal marsh
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ehhh sort of, today building one of them I had to pull the screw out 2 times, needless to say it's deviation is a little higher

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now on to print the suaft

formal marsh
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@pale cloak finally

formal marsh
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I wonder what happened there

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ohhh warp 😅

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well unless its not functional not printint another its a waste of filament

pale cloak
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woop woop!

formal marsh
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should be good despite quality

formal marsh
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well SUAFT is printed, someone forgot how to mount it

solar stratus
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hot glue, duct tape, and cable ties

formal marsh
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engineers best friends

formal marsh
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@lyric quartz

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pics lost in the thread

lyric quartz
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lol im tryna scroll up

formal marsh
formal marsh
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been tempted to pull my current bed heater out, drill new holes on the bed and put a new heater from Fysetc

pale yoke
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Any reason why?

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Fystec one is not a edge to edge one. Just a normal one

solar stratus
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Their heater goes close enough to the edge. No need to run heaters to the very edge

formal marsh
# pale yoke Any reason why?

reason being my bed has the front holes in the wrong place and still have some Z atrifacts that may be caused by my adapters, drilling as is will destroy the heater so need another

formal marsh
pale yoke
formal marsh
solar stratus
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My original 5 plus bed had a 300x300 heater

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Worked just fine

formal marsh
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fysetc heater would have an advantage too, 600W vs my current 300

pale yoke
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Oh yeah, I like my fystec heater. It gets to 110 quickly!

formal marsh
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Flow - Born from an E5Pro

formal marsh
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not much updates here but here are some plans:
New bed to replace the voron one with adapters, no specific reason other than being tired of looking at the adapters and wanting a more powerful heater, Fysetc one is here along with hard magnet, bed will be done by @quartz tide just waiting on it (no rush)
new sensor on sherpa being designed (thanks @deft geode for the test prints)
designing buffers to attach to spool rollers (roller is @pale cloak design from his drybox) buffer designing my own to attach to it
to be done find a way to make a cutter for E34M1 (I don't like any current design)

formal marsh
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buffer WIP

formal marsh
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getting there

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taking way longer than I expected

pale cloak
formal marsh
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still need some fillets and ECAS mounting to test print

formal marsh
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less material on the base

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there might be a weak spot there with the hexagons

formal marsh
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discarded base hexagons, they don't reduce material at 20% infill (what I'm planning) make print slower and have weak spots

pale cloak
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looks good!

formal marsh
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one final check and I'll start printing it

formal marsh
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also took pictures of the heater and magnet, this will look damn good

solar stratus
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I just ordered 2 more of those magnets

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After my printer ate one this weekend.... and I had to steal the one for my new build to replace it

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So I will have one spare

formal marsh
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I'm hoping I dont engrave any 😅

solar stratus
formal marsh
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RIP
I saw it on #demolition_derby hurts even watching

formal marsh
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first buffer

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seems to handle 3 loops fine, each loop roughly 60cm of filament, so I could get away with making it slightly smaller as I need wither 70cm or 90cm (from TR load and unload values which are not very correct)

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next up a cutter

tired pike
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Looks nice

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And it doesn't take much filament

formal marsh
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no but takes some space

formal marsh
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taking notes on buffer:

  • base can be 5mm instead of 7, just add some material on heat insert area where screws into the roller
  • add cutout to pull ecas out more easily
  • measure screws, attempt to standardize one size
  • maybe make side "arms" a little smaller, sometimes the filament instead of making nice loops extends up and into the back, making it shorter might help.
formal marsh
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new version 2.5mm smaller base (because shorter arms)

formal marsh
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new sherpa sensor in

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still need to organize that wiring and shorten the stepper one

tired pike
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Looking nice

formal marsh
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cutter concept, not sure if this will work

tired pike
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I think that I have seen some eva3 cutter somewhere.. if I find it I will share

formal marsh
formal marsh
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wellll shit, after re-soldering the hotend fan sent a print... without testing the fan

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CLOGGED RAPIDO!!

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accepting tips before I even start

tired pike
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Eish... Nozzle out and with a "poke" with the size of the filament and long enough push the clog out

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Something similar

formal marsh
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turns out it was mostly heatbreak

raven cliff
# formal marsh CLOGGED RAPIDO!!

rapido heatbreak is delicate, ask me how I know
if you heat it up, make sure the top didnt curl inwards, if it did, take the small allen key that came with it and use it to uncurl it

formal marsh
raven cliff
tired pike
formal marsh
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meanwhile printed another buffer

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still some things to tweak

pale cloak
formal marsh
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turns out I need more buffer than I initially thought, and with this design filament might tangle a little, need to run some loads/unloads

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I didn't want to but may need to further enclose the filament, want to test 3 loops too (which fit the buffer fine)

formal marsh
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new bed arriving most likely today

formal marsh
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it is here, damn it looks nice
@quartz tide thank you

quartz tide
formal marsh
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mesh on the new bed, looks good to me, pretty sure my frame could get some further adjustment also this is still the bare plate with the protective plastic

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Retries: 0/5 Probed points range: 0.011250 tolerance: 0.050000 POG this z tilt...

proud marsh
formal marsh
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still want to take it out and mesh

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need to find my IPA to give it a good clean as well

proud marsh
formal marsh
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full on

formal marsh
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Added some RTV today, probably didn't need it, but screw it better safe than sorry

formal marsh
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new bed still not in, got an order and have been printing it, next need to tune the red ABS for the RedFox build

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sooo not yet

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meanwhile new sherpa had adjustments since filament sometimes wouldn't load, triggers sensor but then doesn't go down, need to find the cause

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still not perfect, wish it was completely transparent

formal marsh
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small update, swapped for tr8x4 (stolen from the rat build) one of the nuts was wiggling need new nuts for the rat

formal marsh
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meh something not good

formal marsh
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roughly 4mm spaced, matches leadscrews so need to find if its the nuts binding or something misaligned

solar stratus
#

Also make sure the couplers are tight on the motors and leadscrews

#

I had 2 slipping on my new build at first

formal marsh
#

I'll double check, but I find it odd matching the rotation distance, betting on something misaligned

formal marsh
#

aaand it's there 4mm

sand ridge
#

maybe the back hydra extrusion isnt squared

formal marsh
#

replace every part I can, starting with the bed

#

if doesn't fix it swap couplers maybe try the 8x8 again to compare using the same filament
double check rail alignment and finally reprint hydra

#

I'll miss my PCCF parts but

solar stratus
#

if you loosen the motor couplers, do all 3 lead screws want to naturally want to line up with the motor shafts?

sand ridge
# formal marsh meh something not good

Wobbly prints and prints with lines... How you fix it? It can be many things (trust me, every time is a different reason). That's why I loved the Book I showed in this video. It will help you a lot, specially if you are just beginning with 3D Printing:

"3D Printing Failures" Book
by Sean Aranda
https://geni.us/73Gd (Amazon)

More 3D Printing Bo...

▶ Play video
formal marsh
#

yes but its consistent with the rotation distance

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

well, first finding, back stepper screws were too long, 10mm instead of 8

#

might be the cause, might not

formal marsh
#

1 leadscrew is a little bent

#

might try the oldhams I got for the rat

formal marsh
#

better

#

but still there

#

next step try the 8x8 again

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

rat oldhams won't fit

formal marsh
#

back to 8x8

#

not sure if the filament is not properly dried or if it's due to having a little glitter

#

still some binding but screws were not even lubricated and they're probably still dirty

formal marsh
#

finally

#

sexbolt had to come off, the ground screw hits it need to see how to fix that

formal marsh
#

Retries: 2/5 Probed points range: 0.028750 tolerance: 0.050000

#

mesh on the magnet

#

tilt on build plate Retries: 2/5 Probed points range: 0.038750 tolerance: 0.050000

#

similar to previous bed

#

full bed mesh with sheet, I'll take it

#

frame might still be a little off

#

damn now this heats up fast

#

love it

proud marsh
#

first time I didn’t believe it was already at 90C after not even a minute, I had to touch it 😅

formal marsh
#

yeah 1 min 30 sec to go from RT to 100C

formal marsh
#

hmm looks very similar to the red one, this was printed on the new bed

#

filament is dried

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

ehhh forgot these will not hold the bed

#

pulling the plate up lifts everything

formal marsh
#

dumping random thoughts, cutter used works great but shaper suffers, I'm also using the thr adxl need to move my ass and configure the PIS.
my buffers suck, that's the truth, good for short lengths for my use case not really
think the embedded design on EVA is too much work and not even sure if it will be reliable

#

also z offset is getting inconsistent

late veldt
# formal marsh pulling the plate up lifts everything

yeah I was using flexible couplers between the steppers and lead screws, and realized the same issue, removed them because they were likely causing tilt correction to be imprecise back when using klicky, maybe they aren't as much of a problem with beacon, haven't tried

formal marsh
late veldt
#

ah, yeah in that case I'd probably recommend against oldhams

#

since if you try to do tilt correction based on all 4 corners, the rear two corners might be able to cause the bed to tilt slightly when pressing down

formal marsh
#

@late veldt no issues yet but only have a printed one on one corner, need something better than the current one, might try to print something else just to check if they help with the remaining wobble

formal marsh
#

finally flashed PIS properly

#

y is great

#

is a fucking mess

proud marsh
#

I think it looks ok, the peak at106 is the real one, you just have something else going on. in general the density is lower. I think once you remove whatever is going on in the x (I think the cutter might be the biggest contributor there) the 106 Hz peak will stand out

formal marsh
#

time to retire the BTT SFS

#

swapping with another

formal marsh
#

oooor make a new body for this one

proud marsh
formal marsh
#

it's one of the issues, also add some chamfers to help filament go the right place

proud marsh
#

it’s difficult to get filament is also in mine, so it’s probably a design flaw

#

But I have issues mostly with pla, that tends to snaps instead of entering the SFS, I resolved by stopping using pla 😅

formal marsh
#

yeah but wallet and multi colour screams pla

#

cheaper and more color choice

sand ridge
#

Petg for life!!!

formal marsh
sand ridge
#

what do you print then?

formal marsh
#

pla abs and asa

proud marsh
#

petg is nice if you can’t enclose and need functional parts. it’s decent for hardware tools and maybe even printers parts, if not enclosed

sand ridge
formal marsh
#

yeah, like I said I used to think that as well

sand ridge
#

what did u do to ake it easier?

formal marsh
sand ridge
#

pla

proud marsh
# sand ridge pla

for me, pla became easier to print when I started using the tradrack motor to assist the extrusion, 99% of my issues with pla were filament path related. with 2 motors never had that problem again 😅

sand ridge
#

I have to crank up my cpap to 67% and print super slow

#

I feel like pla is converting this printer to a stock E5

formal marsh
#

WTF I print faster than that on a dual 5015

formal marsh
#

at what temperature are you printing

sand ridge
#

190

proud marsh
sand ridge
#

higher temps were even worse

proud marsh
#

after testing of course

solar stratus
#

Some pla or quality pla should be printed a little hotter.

formal marsh
solar stratus
#

A lot of blends are designed for lower temps

proud marsh
formal marsh
#

how do you think I print plastic braces that can handle being tightened by a screw to death without breaking

sand ridge
#

this is a cheap pla that someone bought for me to print them some things I ususaly dont have this much problems with pla

solar stratus
#

Dry it

sand ridge
sand ridge
#

42c

#

or even longer

solar stratus
#

I would just toss it and move on then

sand ridge
#

I have to print these 2 models in it

proud marsh
formal marsh
#

for reference, how it looks like before being tightened

sand ridge
sand ridge
formal marsh
proud marsh
#

hahahah

sand ridge
#

vaseline mode on top

proud marsh
#

damnit autocorrect

sand ridge
#

zesty merc

formal marsh
proud marsh
#

yes, not I can’t correct it anymore, it needs to stay

sand ridge
#

forever be on this server marked in history

formal marsh
#

first proper TR print

sand ridge
#

Nice

#

Now fill the trad rack with collors and prin this

formal marsh
#

9 lanes should be enough, but I need better buffers or rewinders

#

filament got stuck some times

sand ridge
#

Ive seen someone use one of the big plastic boxes from ikea and put some rollers in there with holes for ptfe

#

And he printed deviders for it so the filament doesnt tangle

formal marsh
#

leaves spools too loose not a fan

sand ridge
#

Also some time ago I think there was a printed self revinding spool holder

#

But I forgot where I saw it

formal marsh
#

there's a few

#

winchrack, filamentalist

sand ridge
#

How does it work?

#

Does it have a motor or something?

formal marsh
#

winchrack has motor, filamentalist uses the filament being pushed back to rewind the spool

formal marsh
#

getting really tired of this ABS, a PITA to stick

#

need to try another plate

proud marsh
raven cliff
formal marsh
raven cliff
#

Textured can be tricky
Sticks better than any other I have tried but smooth is still way better from my experience

formal marsh
#

well and now z tilt doesn't work how fun

formal marsh
#

been fighting some artifacts from the leadscrews, added oldhams and fixed the top of the leadscrews not perfect but way better

formal marsh
#

ehhhh

formal marsh
#

500mm/s mesh

#

at 300, I was thinking there was a difference but no

proud marsh
#

enjoying the new toy?

tired pike
#

What is your probe? beacon?

formal marsh
#

cartographer

formal marsh
#

running a first layer

proud marsh
formal marsh
#

but this is ABS, and I didn't heat soak shit

#

so need to properly test

#

also I calibrated cold, so might try hot

formal marsh
#

did hot calibration and fine tuned z again, looks good

#

now need a good way to prevent oozing

formal marsh
#

and guess who found a broken 5015 fan wire broken fixed it but forgot to test the fan

formal marsh
#

nope dead mosfet, must have shorted when the wire broke

formal marsh
#

first layer could use a little adjustment

tired pike
#

Was thinking if it was an option for me to run it by can bus.. so that I could free one USB in my pi

formal marsh
#

but the tap functionality works as expected and for less than half the price of Beacon

#

which my wallet loved

#

tempted to get another for the rat

tired pike
#

Uhm you convinced me 😅

formal marsh
#

wasn't even trying

proud marsh
tired pike
#

I will try that

#

Does anyone knows how to remove the Idm firmware from Klipper?

formal marsh
formal marsh
tired pike
formal marsh
proud marsh
formal marsh
#

Changed feet today, now it's a small printed piece with a small adhesive felt pad.
Shaper before:

#

shaper after:

#

slightly better, X still a little messed up

#

but I blame the cutter for that one

formal marsh
#

finally setup shaketune

#

still looks like crap

#

I need to improve the toolhead, with the cutter things got very out of balance

late veldt
#

Yeah mine looks similarly awful, but haven't had time to look into ways to improve, kind of thinking of getting the cnc toolhead, I figure its rigidity would help a lot

formal marsh
proud marsh
formal marsh
gleaming whale
#

@tired pike @proud marsh IDM won’t get proper support on the carto discord. Richard doesn’t offer support for IDM but there are a lot of helpful people there that might help.

tired pike
#

Thanks

#

I have switched to Cartographer on my machine and am really liking it

#

The Idm doesn't have much support anywhere

proud marsh
tired pike
formal marsh
#

even with the weird spikes, it seem sthe shaper will clean it quite well

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

well shit, 75mm spools don't fit, only without the rollers

formal marsh
#

also I'm an idiot, was going to make a 80cm shelf, but the boxes (8) take a little more than 10cm each, almost 11, so need a 90cm one, at least I did remember that before I made it

#

not that I like it but I guess I'll respool the 3 problematic ones

formal marsh
#

ordered the wood ready, just need to cut down from 120cm to 90, I could make one but don't feel like having the extra effort

formal marsh
#

let's see if this becomes #demolition_derby material

formal marsh
#

could be worse, out of 10 6 survived, and if it wasnt for DK z hop none

#

and yes I tuned speed down on the tops

formal marsh
#

wood for the shelf arrived time to get the saw out and chop this down

tired pike
#

hey... this is starting to look like a carpentry log.... 🤣

formal marsh
#

there's logic to all the madness

formal marsh
#

I promise it's not going to become a woodworking log, here's how the boxes will sit on the shelf, might even add the buffers screwed under the shelf if there's room for it

formal marsh
#

shelf ready, just need to put it on the wall, the holes on the edges are a little too much the edge

formal marsh
#

shelf in place, need to print the remaining parts for yhe dryboxes, print 2 more pika lanes, and a support to tilt the TR

pale cloak
#

that looks clean

formal marsh
#

thinking of adding something inside to prevent the filament from going to the sides inside the boxes so I can use them as buffer

pale cloak
#

enclose the buffer system?

formal marsh
#

not with a box

#

I'm thinking of making the sides acrylic

late veldt
#

There is that one buffer design that uses acrylic panels

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

not too bad regarding looks

late veldt
#

Is that a custom CNC toolhead?

proud marsh
late veldt
#

Yeah that's pretty neat, plus, it would feel very appropriate with the full metal gantry

#

Stylistically

formal marsh
#

it's a mix of VZ, RR, E34M1, and inspired by the full metal gantry

#

it supports any hotend, extruder, etc combo as long as it's a Rapido UHF, sherpa micro, and dual 5015s 😅

late veldt
#

lol

formal marsh
#

cutter and sensor are optional

late veldt
#

are you using the full metal gantry? I missed it and only realized it existed today 😅

formal marsh
late veldt
#

ah

formal marsh
#

might install the toolhead first then gantry, slowly changing to see if I see improvements or not

#

cutter really messed up my IS

late veldt
#

I'm holding off to do a full enclosure + full metal gantry + either this toolhead or the official one upgrade sometime next year

formal marsh
#

this? you mean mine?

late veldt
#

yeah, assuming you'd be open to sharing it eventually?

formal marsh
#

I'll release it sometime but would like to test it first

formal marsh
late veldt
#

yeah, no rush, my wallet would be happy to wait pepeLaugh

formal marsh
#

this whole toolhead adventure only started because I'm designing the smaller merc

late veldt
#

ah I see

formal marsh
#

wanted a new toolhead anyway so why not

sand ridge
#

And now precurssor comes to tell you its slow lol

formal marsh
#

it's as fast as I need it to be right now

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

well crap now I'm thinking how to make it as light as possible and that includes aluminium heat inserts and Ti screws 💸

formal marsh
#

RIP wallet alu HSI and Ti screws are on the way

#

also finally built the roadrunner sensor

#

but it's binding

#

I'm suspecting the gears are to blame

#

hey @plucky plume found you mentioning you were building the roadrunner sensor, any feedback on it

formal marsh
#

tightened up the lever a little, better movement but a little resistance

#

need to test the TR pushing in

plucky plume
formal marsh
plucky plume
#

How's it working?

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

can't really calibrate it properly

#

Failed to find well-fitted linear equation, the measured fitness was 0.9868171626589851 (min. 0.999). [1/3]

#

the BMG gears are not rolling smoothly, no wonder I had quality issues printing with it

#

and I can't really figure out the cause

late veldt
#

looking for a 0.999 fit seems really tight, maybe there's an option to loosen that requirement?

formal marsh
#

there is, managed to get it calibrated but

#

sometimes it will say it did not detect movement

#

retrying now

#

and the default calibration speed is too slow to get anything

#

might get good results now, next step is check if the TR can properly load it otherwise it's useless

#

Most frequent reading: 21.56 with 8 measurement(s), which implies a 'correct' rotation distance of 28.4375000.

#

let's hope

#

detectable change of 0.060mm this is nice IF IT WORKS

formal marsh
#

also re-calibrating TR e-steps

#

in a 50mm extrusion it was doing 47 😬

#

ohh wait belay

#

crap

formal marsh
#

well TR managed to load the filament through, printing today to test it

formal marsh
#

after managing to tune it, been printing fine with it

#

still need to test if it detects properly but TR has no issues loading

formal marsh
#

finally tried sensorless on X seems to work

formal marsh
#

for a first printed test looks good

#

next is smolzg cad cleanup

#

@late veldt here it is, I abandoned the metal cutter for now

deft geode
#

Oh I think I found it.

formal marsh
deft geode
#

Can you run a Beacon through it?

formal marsh
#

it's can

deft geode
#

Gotcha. Thanks!

formal marsh
#

re-tightened the belts, and put a rubber band on the current cutter arm, things look cleaner

#

Y is weird no rubber band and now it's better

late veldt
pale cloak
#

is that a built in cutter?

formal marsh
#

toolhead works without it as well

#

cutter is just 2 pieces under the extruder, there is also a sensor under the cutter

#

and printing a PoC of arm

pale cloak
#

oooh interesting

formal marsh
#

so 2 problems

#

this section is too thin, and the plan of printing a .2mm wall as support doesnt go well either, need to split in 2 to print or put the blade on a side like the one I have now

formal marsh
#

new plan

#

the arm itself at 10x4mm seems to be strong enough, the weak spot now becomes thicker and the tip of the blade is supported by the pin in the pivot point

#

I'm just unsure if that tip is enough or if it breaks the blade

#

or I can just move the blade in a little more

#

if this fails next step is a proof of concept with an old hacksaw blade, grind whatever teeth remain cut to size, attempt to drill holes including some for a sort of handle, and it becomes 2 alu plates as well

formal marsh
#

idea for the printed cutter, make 1x4mm pins, piano wire or even paper clip should work, use 2 or 3 around the blade as needed and make a printed sandwich, 2mm pieces with a .2 or .3 recess for the blade on each side

#

if the pins fit tight enough they should help keep the arm together along with the pivot point and the screw on the blade hole

formal marsh
#

finally printing parts for the toolhead

#

and for metal gantry just need to finish sanding the plates and paint

#

on the XY joiners I'm saving 23g by swapping all steel screws with Ti, and the pins by CF, I'll first install everything with steel give it a test run and then replace to compare

#

and because I don't have all the Ti screws

formal marsh
#

just to keep the shots with the build

#

morr Ti screws on the way, last parts printing

formal marsh
#

had forgotten how might the LW Gantry was

#

also 1.43g less with Ti screws not much 😅 but I do feel fancy

#

plans for tolhead plates

formal marsh
#

plans for v2 IF, v1 works

formal marsh
#

hmm I should double check belt position

formal marsh
#

hopefully I'll test fit with the metal gantry tomorrow

formal marsh
#

sooo metal gantry is in

#

now align everything

#

wondering if I should run E34M1 for a test run

#

maybe test fit belt positioning on the new toolhead first, then E34M1 back in until new toolhead plates are done (alu ones)

formal marsh
#

quick test fit I'm actually surprised things fit so well, bigger belts are on the way

#

going back to E34M1 for now

#

might cleanup the cad and share soon

formal marsh
#

hindsight, the sensor needs to be wbove the cutter

#

otherwise when I cut the filament stays on the sensor

formal marsh
#

E34M1 is back, the cutter arm on mine can also be shorter

formal marsh
#

shaper is still crap but I was expecting it, I still think most issues come from the toolhead (cutter etc) so until new belts are here I'm not going to dig into it

#

but I do need to redesign to have the sensor above the cutter

formal marsh
#

sweet jesus

#

come to think of it, the feet I'm using now might not be helping either need to decouple the vibrations from the box too

formal marsh
#

just so it stays here

formal marsh
#

also big shout-out to @proud marsh for putting up with my endless rants, sharing and comments, and his feedback as well

formal marsh
#

now with screws

#

time to start printing again

formal marsh
#

wrenches because I'm lazy to put screws

#

one handed is hard the other was holding the phone

#

cutter measures 8mm tall, sensor adds another 8 or 9

formal marsh
#

no choice toolhead doesn't sound that good anymore

#

technically you can choose if you want cutter and sensor

#

and also made this

formal marsh
#

final final final

#

cutterless and toolboardless too

#

final name "F-Choice"

formal marsh
#

weight breakdown

56.00 - printed parts
25.68 - alu plates
24.92 - Ti Screws and Alu HSI
59.47 - dual 5015 blower
07.36 - 2510 fam
15.76 - toolboard
45.28 - hotend (rapido UHF)
20.31 - sherpa micro gears
70.41 - sherpa stepper

Total: 325.19g

#

5015s to blame now

raven cliff
formal marsh
#

in time

#

meanwhile, steel and brass comparison wirh Ti and Al inserts

#

19.57g lighter, not much but

#

need to check the weight of the E34M1 I'm running

proud marsh
formal marsh
#

that's toolhead

proud marsh
#

aaah makes sense

formal marsh
#

gantry is next, it's currently screwed in with steel the M5s are already Ti but I'll compare both BOMs as well including dowels

#

last Ti FHCS have arrived

#

waiting on a saw to cut the plates

#

and belts

#

the wait is killing me

raven cliff
#

Carbon rods are flexible though
Not too sure whether that's a good jdea

formal marsh
#

I believe @coral basin has been running CF pins

coral basin
#

Yeah iv been running them for well over a year now and they have been great. I checked them a few weeks ago when I switched to the newest printed x joints and they are still fine. No signs of wear or anything.

Have not tried them on the metal gantry yet.

formal marsh
#

I'll go directly with metal gantry

#

we'll only know if we try

coral basin
#

I need to find where I stuck the other part that I was cutting off and was going to test the metal gantry with them as well

formal marsh
coral basin
#

Yup, about 7g per side saved.

coral basin
# raven cliff Cpap

Tbh I dunno how much the Cpap will take off the tool head. You remove the 5015 then add that hose on top the flail around lol. Iv always wondered how much are you actually gaining that way. I guess it makes up for it with ultra cooling.

formal marsh
#

it's a good point but I still think it takes weight off

raven cliff
#

the hose weights barely anything
also it removes vibrations

proud marsh
#

you also have the tube that helps as strain relief and removes a lot of the flapping around of the various cables

#

and you gain something like 6~8x the static pressure 😅

formal marsh
#

the weight at this point is more of a stupid goal

formal marsh
#

E34M1 175+132.16+45.28(rapido)+59.47(dual 5015s)
total 411.91

#

86g lighter

#

already an improvement

formal marsh
#

XY jointer HW, steel vs Ti+CF common stuff not weighted

#

34.19g - steel
13.47g - Ti+CF

so 20.72g lighter

formal marsh
#

had the urge to put it together even though the toothed idlers will be changed

#

need to redesign that endstop piece for the toolhead

#

guess that's next while I wait for the belts idlers and remaining tools to attempt cutting my own plates

#

might make 2 versions, one solid and one with the weight reducing holes

formal marsh
#

new belts, idlers and saw to cut the plates are here, also

#

release maybe soon

formal marsh
#

need to write up the BOM

formal marsh
#

first drill attempt, I rushed what can't be rushed, didn't properly punch the hole centers which was the first mistake

#

second is the lack of the correct drill bits for some holes, m3 requires 3.4 for clearance (might do 3.5) M2.5 is 2.9

#

and need a 4.2 hole for ptfe

formal marsh
#

tried to adjust and thread the holes

#

rapido only 2 fit s
the others are too misaligned but not too bad, confident I can make a proper one tomorrow

coral basin
#

Do you drill pilot holes first as well?

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

drilled bottom plate now, everything at 2.5 then 3 with small hand drilled 1mm starts just to avoid things moving

#

taps need to be drilled at 2 and hand drilled to 2.5 the press wiggles a little threads end up a little loose

#

other than that looks good, now need to cut the damn curve

#

don't

proud marsh
#

oo jeez I realise I hate gifs, I’m going to delete it

formal marsh
#

since the saw I got kinda sucks I think I'll run one some holes

#

and file/sand it

#

or get better blades

#

screw it, both

proud marsh
#

I can’t believe I didn’t know anyone near by that can do a little milling for cheap, I’m looking at 80~90€ to cut my plates, to have 2 or 3 sets, because cutting only one costs more, and than maybe there is some stuff to modify

formal marsh
#

yeah

#

cheapest ends up being xometry etc

formal marsh
#

first one

#

still needs cleanup but

formal marsh
proud marsh
#

well, not bad at all to be honest!!

formal marsh
#

ehh it's terrible but if it works it works

#

hopefully next one comes out better

#

might attempt to cut another one

coral basin
#

That looks great for doing it by hand.

formal marsh
#

no way this will work 😭

solar stratus
#

This is why I might 3d print parts to be laser cut for a test assembly, but then I just order the parts since the services are fairly cheap.

formal marsh
#

if I factor in time as a cost it's already more expensive than ordering from somewhere

coral basin
#

@formal marsh when I have fabricated mounts for things that needed holes to line up, like alternator brackets and stuff. I would start by drilling a single hole, bolting the two plates together, and drilling all the other holes at the same time through both plates at once. After that you can start to shape the part. At least then, the important parts line up good.

formal marsh
formal marsh
#

but still in this case the rapido mounting holes are not aligned

coral basin
#

@formal marsh it's definitely doable, and if you are determined to do it by hand with some more tinkering I bet you'll get it right.

formal marsh
proud marsh
formal marsh
proud marsh
#

I wonder if you could attach a scalpel or just a pen or something like that to the toolhead, to sign the shape of the plate directly on the alu part to cut… I mean, hypothetically

#

because it’s clear that you really need super human precision to even glue the paper on the part, let alone punching holes or cut

formal marsh
#

at this point I'm willing to try anything it's a learning experience

#

last resort well just order them laser cut

formal marsh
#

scribed everything on the plate, brad point drills smallest I got is 3mm so no good for pilot holes, but the tips are very good to manually poke in the right spot, then properly punch them, measuring with calipers things look good enough

#

next up actually drill some pilot holes and measure AGAIN

formal marsh
#

WIP, that damn bowden one ran away but I think I can save it, 4 remaining but looking good so far

#

let's hope

formal marsh
#

others look good but that bowden one is a mess, still deviated, luckily it's not too critical and I can widen it if I need

formal marsh
#

so, rapido attaches without the front screw that one is too off 😭
the worst problem being that my M3 tap broke doing the last tap on the bottom piece, meaning the top one is still untapped

#

standoffs were drilled together so they're looking good but didn't assemble shit

formal marsh
#

guess who's an idiot did a test tap with the broken remnants and thought, this will work

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proceeded to do 4 more and none is good the first one was pure luck

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and now I have an otherwise good plate fucked

coral basin
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@formal marsh it's a learning process! You'll get it! Each time you try, and each learning experience you have will get you closer to.your outcome! You get better every attempt.

formal marsh
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new taps are here, I'll cut the round on the bottom one test fit the whole build, if it fits fine, drill another top one

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new thing for me, 2 taps for M3 apparently a rough one and a finishing one

solar stratus
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I've said it before, but I prefer spiral flute taps for hand tapping aluminum. They are typically used in cnc machines

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They create a long chip that gets pushed up like a drill bit chip

formal marsh
formal marsh
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Finally pre-assembled the whole thing

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2 of the taps are completely messed up, one of the rapido mounting screws is off and the bowden is misaligned, other than that everything seems to fit, next up I'll put it on the rail to test the belting properly

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if the belts turn out good, another top plate will be drilled

formal marsh
tired pike
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Looks good man!

pale cloak
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i'm so far behind 😭

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this looks great. i kept thinking the cutter was huge, but i realized the rest of the toolhead is just smol

formal marsh
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wiring still needs to be adjusted, Ti screws are not in, and the plates don't have the cutouts to reduce weight but as a test this will work

formal marsh
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didn't check belts yet but damn X looks clean compared to previous stuff

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Y looks like shit

weak trout
formal marsh
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but damn it's looking fine and I need it printing like yesterday

formal marsh
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small update

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this is Y on carto adxl

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this is with the THR

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x barely had difference

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theory is that carto mount allows for some wiggle

formal marsh
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meanwhile Z is a little inconsistent because I have oldhams but removed the top bearings, I'll raise the bed with higher spacers on the arms and later redesign for smaller support bearings, also one minitank is dying time to get the PCCF spares back in

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other than that printing great, so after I dispatch the giant orders I got I'll make the final cuts on the plates to make them lighter

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and see what improves

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oh and the 2510 I got is stupid weak hotend is also passively cooling on the alu plate

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wait.... did I lubricate the rails

formal marsh
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ok XY were lubed, since I was swapping the minitanks decided to take out the tank rails

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dryer than a desert

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relubed and they're in now need to cut 3 M4s down to 25mm

formal marsh
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back to printing, no issues so far

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@coral basin thanks for the support man, I got it printing

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still need to make the plates lighter to compare

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I think I'm ready to prepare an initial release

coral basin
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Good job dude!!!! Happy for ya man!

formal marsh
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not done yet need to cut the holes but the parts fit and the thing prints

gleaming whale
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What version carto do you have? If it’s got the lis2d instead of adxl you will get different results.

formal marsh
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had to take out the rapido yesterday due to a clog on the heatbreak, turns out not so hard with this toolhead, sure need to remove the extruder and fan but no big deal

white crane
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hmm the printer in the older posts looks familiar to me

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i wonder why lol

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i should start my own build log here

formal marsh
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@white crane why would that be 😅

formal marsh
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@sick bridge somewhere here I think

sick bridge
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completely offtopic but is there no way to scroll immediatly to the top in discord mobile? Forum threads are impossible to read without 2h of scrolling

formal marsh
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nope

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it will have a post as soon as it gets released

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waiting on @ornate flame to finish the new plates (no pressure)

white crane
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same with you @formal marsh waiting on everything (no pressure lol)
did what you told me and created a build log #1362724839638696006

formal marsh
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slowly coming back to this, realised a few days ago I could just make an entire lid for my dryboxes, needs more filament but could fix space issues
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ext6ns8

first I'll test a roller concept with MR63 bearings