Flow - Born from an E5Pro

[formal marsh]

need can

that's going to be a PITA

[pale cloak]

CAN?

[formal marsh]

yep

simple reason, I run klipper inside docker

can is a network interface on the host

[pale cloak]

ah

[formal marsh]

changing network to host works but I wanted to avoid that

[formal marsh]

damn not going to work out

needs host net

actually may not be that bad, klipper doesn't use network (except for can)

[pale cloak]

It's technically tunneled through USB, FWIW, though I doubt that helps with Docker permissions.

[formal marsh]

does not AFAIK

[proud marsh]

so does it work by simply set the docker network to host?

[formal marsh]

should did not try yet

[formal marsh]

played a little with CAN yesterday flashed klipper in can bridge mode into the toolboard, need to compile new drivers for the kernel

[proud marsh]

oh yeah, been there!! Are you compiling on a arm machine?

I did it on an amlogic s905, and it took the all day to compile

[formal marsh]

nah, it's my laptop takes like 10 minutes maybe less, but it was late and I was not in the mood to wait

[proud marsh]

after I understand that canbus is just a network it was much easier to digest. I am still unsure if the design of the network is just linear, so one start-end all daisy chained together, or it may also have multiple ramifications and and still work as expected. the tech is pretty basic but it’s cool, it’s a little bit like a built-in rest server/middleware in each node that read through a common websocket

[formal marsh]

reminds me of the ancient token ring LANs

without the token

messages just go around, each device consumes the ones for it's address

that's how I understand it

[proud marsh]

I think it’s basically the same thing, each node have a uuid, and they care about the messages that ate from them

[formal marsh]

I finally got to that understanding yesterday

[proud marsh]

the cool thing is that it’s over 2 wires only. so the low hw requirements is pretty hard to beat

[formal marsh]

I'll just use the toolboard in that mode to try the container config

then move to the server and reflashb the pico

[proud marsh]

yeah, it’s not a sort of black magic, and yes, you could even use the tolboard canbus in usb bridge mode and start the network the other way around, there are really no rules

[formal marsh]

true but needs more wires on the toolboard, not what I want

[formal marsh]

yep, that's even how the many ECUs on cars talk

[proud marsh]

sure, just to say that’s pretty free and hard to mess up

once everything is wired up

[formal marsh]

from some readings I have seen some cars have like 30 or more of them

all over can

[formal marsh]

true

[proud marsh]

the only problem is that klipper is unforgiving, and as soon something unexpected happens or a slightly delayed, it panics and kills all

[formal marsh]

yeah, had that issue due to high load

been considering moving klipper out of the home server

but no pi, and I like it in containers

[proud marsh]

maybe it’s not the right tool, but I can see it allowing more complex built with a slim down wiring

[formal marsh]

you can split the drivers around

but you need processors and can transceivers

[proud marsh]

I have found a tinkerboard for 10€ in the marketplace. it’s not the latest cpu, more like a rpi3 than a 4, but it didn’t gave me any issue so far

before I used an android tv box

[formal marsh]

as long as it can handle klipper moonraker mainsail and klipperscreen

[proud marsh]

if you want I can send you one of those 😜, pretty cool to play with them

[formal marsh]

what are the specs on those

wait it's the asus one?

[proud marsh]

2gig ram, quad cores, they are all chinese chips. the tinkerboard is a rockcip arm hf, the tv boxes are amlogic s905w, arm64 with 2g ethernet and wifi (doesn’t work yet) running an unsupported armbian version

[proud marsh]

yes the tinkerboard yes, from 2017

[formal marsh]

ah the tv boxes I have one, played with it, not a fan

[proud marsh]

yeah, it’s a hit or miss

they are all badly supported

[formal marsh]

2gb on the tinker?

[proud marsh]

yes

[formal marsh]

how much klipper takes

[proud marsh]

it’s an old mighty

[proud marsh]

nothing, mainsail is the hog

[formal marsh]

tempting, looks like the same form factor of the pi

[proud marsh]

but not even close to a gig

[formal marsh]

what I mean is the full package

[proud marsh]

the same one, the pins might change

[formal marsh]

tempting indeed

just need it to handle klipperscreen as well

not even x server, as that will run on an android

[proud marsh]

I was expecting the tinkerboard to run worse than the android tv boxes, since on paper they are similar but the tv boxes are arm64. instead the tinkerboard is just unbeatable. I suspect it boils down to the ram used and the overall better build quality

plus the tinker board is fully supported, everything works

[formal marsh]

need to see if I can run Alpine om it

it it's possible might look for one

[proud marsh]

jesus, everything became so expansive, just browsing anywhere

found one on ebay.fr for 30€, sold as possibly faulty

anywhere else is > 150€ for something that should cost 40€ max

[formal marsh]

it's insane

[proud marsh]

otherwise the pine64 is the board to look now, it’s basically the same as the tinker, even better, and it’s sold at community prices

https://pine64.com/product-category/rock64/

[formal marsh]

still more than I'm willing to pay

[proud marsh]

also us, no vat and import taxes

[pale cloak]

The RPi is supposed to hit 1m units a month soon. Prices should start dropping after that.

[formal marsh]

let's see, if prices drop enough I might move klipper to a pi

[pale cloak]

Pi4B still retails for $55. Once that backorder is down prices should fall.

Newark is still way way behind. Prices haven't kept lockstep with them being behind, but it's been a decent measure of what to expect. Note: they claim a 10mo lead time.

https://3dpandme.com/2022/08/22/pi-alternatives-for-klipper/ <-- doesn't mention Pine64, but does cover a lot of boards.

[formal marsh]

I'll be waiting for prices to drop

[formal marsh]

just great keeps skipping

when purging looked like a clog or heat creep but then started printing fine

need to set a thermistor in the enclosure

[formal marsh]

printing again without door

[proud marsh]

when you go canbus you can use the hotend pins for the chamber thermistor

[formal marsh]

I know

[proud marsh]

otherwise it seems gpio29 might be used as extra thermistor, I use a odd pin on my skr mini to have an extra thermistor

it kind of work fiddling with the pullup_resistor

[formal marsh]

the plan is to use the free one on the pico

printing petg standoffs for temporary assembly

looks like I ggot the right kernel drivers

[proud marsh]

oh yeah!

[formal marsh]

for those using THR36 and want to compile kernel what you need is CAN_GS_USB

and CAN_DEV and CAN_NETLINK (dependencies)

[proud marsh]

I had to compile on unsupported armbian (amlogic s9xx) but the official armbian on the asus tinker had it already

[formal marsh]

need to check if I can flash the pico without the boot jumper

stuck yet again

FUUUUUUUCK ME!

[formal marsh]

tried a cold pull but pla breaks

printing again

[formal marsh]

and stuck again 😭

where to start first? swap nozzle or the whole damn hotend

printed 2 layers

ill be swapping out the hotend and disassemble what I can (some screws are fucked)

guess I'll be cutting screws as well

[proud marsh]

I had a similar thing, it was happening when trying to print pla. petg and abs where fine. I thought it was some higher temp filament “contamination”, and I tried to print pla at higher temp. tried cleaning filament, cleanup the nozzle, cold pulls… eventually I just didn’t print pla for a while, and now it works ok

[formal marsh]

this is with PETG

[proud marsh]

have you tried asa/abs at higher temps? if it’s not heat creep I mean

[formal marsh]

not yet trying to print last parts in PETG to then start with ABS

I'll get the cht out and try another

if it prints fine need to find a way to clean it

if not, change to the spare hotend

and try to clean this one

[pale cloak]

Are you swapping between PETG and PLA?

[formal marsh]

not recently, printed a lot of PETG fine

[pale cloak]

K. Checking. I've been told PLA and PETG are more difficult to clear when they mix in the nozzle.

[formal marsh]

might be something like that

[formal marsh]

doing another cold pull to get it as clean as possible and then swap nozzles

[gleaming whale]

I don’t know how correct this is but I had a revo nozzle with a blockage in it so I pulled it out and heated it up with a heat gun and kept pushing filament through and letting it cool a little and cold pulling with it out of the hotend. My goto part and filament store has some nozzle cleaning filament in their own brand now so I might get some of that.

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale thinking of doing something like that

I was going for something a little different, a blowtorch

[pale cloak]

The nozzle cleaning filament is amazing. I've stopped doing cold pulls because the filament fixes it. I've used half of 250g in two years, too, so it lasts.

[formal marsh]

usually it's just nylon filament not sure if it has any additives

even for a cold pull nylon is better

[pale cloak]

Nylon doesn't have as large a melt range. I thought it was nylon at first, too. Bought some and was very disappointed.

This stuff melts from about 160-something very high

[formal marsh]

interesting some of the ones I have seen for sale claim to be nylon

[pale cloak]

Could it be a form of modified nylon? That might explain the origin.

Nope, looks like it's different stuff. Made for cleaning injectino molding equipment, which makes sense.

[formal marsh]

just found there are actually 2 things

nylon for cold pulls and cleaning filament

[pale cloak]

I didn't know that nylon was actually used for cold pulls. Interesting.

[formal marsh]

well turned most filament in the nozzle into a liquid

pushed a ppiece through the hotend (without nozzle as well)

reassembling

also past me is an idiot

[formal marsh]

print finished without issues

also Found canbus_uuid=45684968bae8, Application: Klipper

this is using THR36 as bridge but as a proof of concept works

[proud marsh]

do you know which pins to use/connectwith the transceiver in the pico?

[formal marsh]

there's a guide I'll link it

@proud marsh https://github.com/rootiest/zippy_guides/blob/main/guides/pico_can.md

[formal marsh]

"#$%%$#&/$& it still skips

print finished but had some skipping

could be flow related though

might increase temperature on next print

THR 36 flashed for CAN only

printing some more parts before starting disassembly

specifically moving to a different purge bucket+brush holder

[formal marsh]

see where it looks a little better? slowed down 50%

not perfect but better

why? it used to print fine its as if the hotend stopped handling those speeds

old nozzle going in

need some cleaning filaments

aaand no same ahit

[formal marsh]

feeling lost on this

[formal marsh]

fuck

after drying filament not the problem

trying slower now

wasting a lot of filament on this

has to be either heat creep, hotend somewhow gettint stuck or motor heating too much

I'll just move the electronics out get the enclosure fan working

see if keeping it cooler helps

[formal marsh]

Third attempt simply stopped extruding, enclosure was at 30 according to my multimeter, motor at 55/60

[pale cloak]

Could it be wiring related?

[formal marsh]

idk going omnibox today, most likely canbus as well

[pale cloak]

Well, if it clears up, you'll know why, I guess.

[formal marsh]

true but I doubt it's the issue

since most stuff is here or on the way

ill just move forward I don't need to print now

makes easier to swap hotend as well

thermistor has a long wire that I'll have to cut

[formal marsh]

good to see some progress

klipperscreen is working

[formal marsh]

Update on checklist:

Fix the clog/whatever it is issue (fully disassemble hotend clean and test)
Add toolboard to reduce amount of wiring 🕐
Move electronics into OmniBox 🕐
Add exhaust fan to enclosure 🕐
Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Print more braces for the frame
Hydra (will use old creality board for Z motors)
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour

Did a test with the 120mm fan for the enclosure on 20v battery, damn that thing moves a lot of air

Omnibox reprint will wait for @pale cloak to decide go full HSI

[pale cloak]

24V 120mm fans are insane air destroyers

[pale cloak]

No pressure, no pressure

[formal marsh]

none at all

honestly none this one works for now 😆

and still need to find a filament I like

[pale cloak]

Oh good. I gave a case to a local friend and he had the same thing happen. I was like, "fuuuuck me". That's how I discovered basic PLA does not work well. 😦

Polymaker PLA Pro works well

[formal marsh]

need a matte black one

preference to PETG

[pale cloak]

Oh that's right, Polymaker doesn't make matte PETG. Hmm.

[formal marsh]

good news can bridge is now working

INSIDE A DAMN DOCKER CONTAINER!!!!

bad news nothing is connected to the board so there's that

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh stupid question heatsink on toolboard is for mcu or driver?

@sturdy drift FYI even canbus works inside containers

[pale cloak]

driver

[proud marsh]

I place it on the mcu thinking it was the driver, so I add one also on the driver

[formal marsh]

I was assuming driver but good to check

amazon now delivers on Sunday

not bad

more cables for Z

missing SSR, power connector and ground wiring should arrive Tuesday

[pale cloak]

I did that, too. Juuuuust to be safe.

[formal marsh]

I won't

[formal marsh]

thermistor on the toolboard working

disconnecting it makes klipper shutdownn so looks good

now on to actually test everyting through toolboard so I can recrimp in peace

well fuck it a few wires got messed up on disassembly

just rewire and move on

[pale cloak]

JST XH connectors? I hate them with a passion.

[formal marsh]

not exclusively

[formal marsh]

looking clean

no clue why slice thermistors are just one long wire, now I have to crimp it 😭

[formal marsh]

BTW notes on the THR36 connectors being small, fits 0.5mm² ferrules enough for around 11A at 24V thats a little over 250W enough even for a rapido toolboard stepper etc

not sure if I already said this but thank you @pale cloak for the iwiss recommendation

[formal marsh]

extruder heater and thermistor crimped and tested fans are next

debating myself whether to simply cut old connectors

or solder new wire

[formal marsh]

well endstops are not working with new wiring

[pale cloak]

Make sure you're using GND and the signal pin on the board, not the +5V. I nearly started a fire that way.

[formal marsh]

thr36 only has signal and gnd

[gleaming whale]

i put 24v through my endstops, blew the tracing on the toolhead and breakout board.... when i do the next iteration update and new belts will chuck the new ones in

[formal marsh]

@pale cloak starting to feel your hatred of JST connectors

they were nearly broken

X and Y are good

Y homes

X does not

[pale cloak]

Wires pull free from the pins?

That's what gets me

[formal marsh]

Communication timeout during homing x

just on X WTF

moves a little and stops

[pale cloak]

Have you tested the endstops in Klipper to see if they're triggered or open?

[formal marsh]

and suddenly it works

WHY

[pale cloak]

is X on CAN?

[formal marsh]

only the endstop

could it be?

[pale cloak]

could be

[formal marsh]

ideas welcome

[pale cloak]

try doing something else, like heating up the hotend.

[formal marsh]

has worked so far let me see

[pale cloak]

(something else on the toolhead)

Oh, check your pins! There are three pins for the endstop, too. Could be wired up to the wrong pin.

[formal marsh]

properly wired checked endstops

randomly homes correcly

toolboard doing nothing or heating same results

[pale cloak]

Intermittent short on the endstop wiring or CAN noise?

[formal marsh]

ill check the wire

[pale cloak]

If too much traffic goes over noisy CAN, maybe it's losing some of the traffic

[formal marsh]

I wonder if the motor wiring causes the noise

Got error -1 in can write: (105)No buffer space available
Got error -1 in can write: (105)No buffer space available
Got error -1 in can write: (105)No buffer space available
interesting

[pale cloak]

That's your CAN bus for sure

[formal marsh]

yep I know

[pale cloak]

That's the exact error I get on Big Bird.

[formal marsh]

but its way up in the logs

restarted and homed X only

nothing seems wrong

seems like can latency

need to summon the CAN god

@dapper latch that would be you correct?

[dapper latch]

What's your /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 looks like?

[formal marsh]

config is done with netifrc on Gentoo so it's a little different

give me a sec

the relevant part is this

ip link set up can0 type can bitrate 500000
ifconfig can0 txqueuelen 128

[dapper latch]

bytes_retransmit and bytes_invalid are non zero, you should start with confirming your wiring is intact. That's your system in docker?

Try increasing txqueuelen, I use 1024 on all my builds

[formal marsh]

that seems to fix it

homed a few times without issue

I'll continue config if I find further issues I'll summon you again

thanks @dapper latch

[dapper latch]

👍🏽

[formal marsh]

well on to do the wiring for the fans+klicky and toolhead is ready

[formal marsh]

fans are now working

klicky too

all that needs to be connected to the toolboard is done

missing:
z motor
sexbolt (z endstop)
bed power and proper wiring for thermistor

and then ALL the microfits but thats after it's tested

wiring still needs some love

remaining components for hydra should arrive this week, all I need now is to make the feet taller and for that need to still fix the hotend issues

[formal marsh]

and I need a working heated bed to print -_-

not enough long cable

[formal marsh]

sexbolt connected will try to print with a cold bed 😬

need something quick and dirty to raise the feet 10mm

might design some basic things to put under the regular feet

and fix it later when I got a proper bed

otherwise just cut 4 pieces of wood do a small bore with a forstner, might be easier

yet printing with cold bed is q good test for heat creep

[formal marsh]

Communication timeout during homing probenot again

I clearly have canbus problems

should I try to twist the wires

@dapper latch any thoughts?

[dapper latch]

How do bytes_retransmit and bytes_invalid counters look like on your CAN bus MCU?

[formal marsh]

let me see

bytes_retransmit=1380 bytes_invalid=5821

just before the error

[dapper latch]

Definitely check your wiring and connections then

[formal marsh]

connections look good I have reviewed them must be wiring

might have to get specific wiring for this

[dapper latch]

I'm 6 hours into a print on the Mercury with 4 CAN devices and see 0 on both counters on all CAN MCUs. Anything accumulating and non-zero means issues

[dapper latch]

I don't use CAN specific wiring

[formal marsh]

other than swapping wiring I see no solution

[dapper latch]

Your crimps?

[formal marsh]

yes ferrules

[dapper latch]

U2C?

[formal marsh]

no, can transceiver on pico

[dapper latch]

Try reducing bitrate to 250K. Input shaper using the onboard accelerometer is overrated and unusable anyway

[dapper latch]

Also verify that the resistance between CAN H and CAN L is 120 ohms with the CAN transceiver disconnected from the mainboard

[formal marsh]

I will

117 on toolboard, 120 on transceiver

(117 with wire included)

I'll try to separate data wires from power and check if it makes a difference

[formal marsh]

following this: https://www.teamfdm.com/forums/topic/1524-debugging-canbus-and-communication-timeout-while-homingbytes_invalid/

these have no errors

but bytes invalid are going up

@dapper latch did you do any manual twisting on your wiring?

[formal marsh]

twisted CANL and CANH errors still increase but its doing the mesh fine (would fail fast before)

why did I have to say anything just crapped its pants

but it did improve

time to twist the power ones as well

[proud marsh]

I also had/have this error. I think is wiring related, but it was popping out always at the same corner during z-tilt… it’s quite hard to debug as I can’t see any log nailing the culprit

but after z tilt it was fine, I might have had other errors due to can (once it stopped mid print because the canboard mcu was disconnected -wiring!-)

[formal marsh]

good tip, I'll run a full mesh a few times and see if its on a specific spot

[proud marsh]

but this was definitely the recurring every time the printer started on

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh how did you end up fixing it

[proud marsh]

I am in process of re-re-re-rewire the canbus network, let’s see if it improves with a proper cable. it did good with loosely twisted silicon wires so far

[proud marsh]

strange to say but it comes and go. it improved once I installed the enclosure

[formal marsh]

time to re-twist

[proud marsh]

i think it doesn’t like at all when the connection on the thr slightly moves, so I need to take a careful rethink at the strain relief on the 4 wires

[formal marsh]

time to play with speed

going down to 250k

having a disk being rebuilt on the server may not be helping at all

[pale cloak]

Mine are all tightly twisted, both data and power, FWIW

[formal marsh]

250k actually makes it workse

I wonder if 1M will improve

this is not helping

not too tight but both pairs are twisted

routed differently to ensure its not interference

feeling tempted to run both boards on USB

testing 1M homes without issue

0 invalid 0 retransmit

https://giphy.com/gifs/new-girl-fox-new-girl-ng-l2JIdnF6aJnAqzDgY

goes against all advice found

did a full bed mesh with 0 errors

@proud marsh you might want to try that

[proud marsh]

I am at 1M 😎

[pale cloak]

wtf is happening. faster is less noisy...

https://tenor.com/view/high-five-topgun-need-for-speed-gif-13303958

[formal marsh]

don't ask.me

all I know is 250k doesn't even home, 500k homes but fails probing, 1m works without errors

time to put the wire in place

lost my good heatshrink though

[formal marsh]

printing but cold bed is not helping

petg doesn't want to stick

textured PEI sticks, melted toolboard spacers because the damn think got clogged again

[formal marsh]

makeshift spacers incoming, 2 40mm m3 screws with heat inserts as filler

[formal marsh]

Thinking should I try to see if the hotend has issues or simply swap it for the spare and attempt fixing if it's really the problem later

[proud marsh]

give the spare a chance to shine!

[formal marsh]

Last spare was sold before being needed

Screw it spare will go in, hopefully today not even the CHT will be used

With some luck that's the issue and I can move forward

[formal marsh]

[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: gpio9
tx_pin: gpio8
uart_address: 3
run_current: 0.30
stealthchop_threshold: 0

Shit...

No wonder the extruder was hot

@proud marsh thr has 2208 or 2209?

[proud marsh]

2209

[formal marsh]

Config sample is wrong then tks

Have to re test today with proper extruder config

[proud marsh]

2208!

sorry

[formal marsh]

schematic shows 2209

[proud marsh]

[tmc2208 extruder]
uart_pin: thr36:gpio6
interpolate: True
run_current: 0.56 #0.35```

[formal marsh]

Only way to be sure is remove the heatsink, I sort of remember reading 2209

Not sure if it makes much of a difference

[proud marsh]

I think I copy pasted from their github

[formal marsh]

So did I, config says 08 schematic 09

[proud marsh]

or it’s leftover from older config

[formal marsh]

I'll try with 09

[proud marsh]

it should be written on the chip

[formal marsh]

I know, but don't want to remove heatsink as I don't have spare adhesive

[proud marsh]

same 😂

[formal marsh]

But I sort of remember reading 2209 on the chip, problem is that thing is small and my eyes are crap

[proud marsh]

I know, should have read it without glasses, in uber magnifying mode

[formal marsh]

The only way I can read it is without glasses and still not easy my eyes are getting fucked up even for close stuff

Damn you age

[proud marsh]

maybe I have a picture

[formal marsh]

I'll trust it's 2209 current is within limits of both as well as all other parameters

[formal marsh]

aand extruder motor is dead

TMC 'extruder' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 000900a0 s2vsb=1(ShortToSupply_B!) olb=1(OpenLoad_B!) cs_actual=9

most likely killed by the heatup yesterday

or it was already dying

well monday I print more, until then work on hydra and other connectors

[pale cloak]

I'm guessing, of course, but this seems the most probable explanation for your extruder issues.

[formal marsh]

paid 33 eur for a moons one from amazon

would be 20 something on ali but I don't want to wait

[pale cloak]

Seems a fair trade. Moons steppers are super expensive here, actually.

You can get them on amazon, but it takes weeks.

Huh, I guess that's only true for their NEMA 17 steppers. FYSETC resells their NEMA14 for 25$.

[formal marsh]

last parts for hydra arrived

[formal marsh]

last photo of the stock bed

[pale cloak]

Bye bye stock bed

[formal marsh]

gone

[formal marsh]

now I understand what you said about frame imperfections @proud marsh

and I only assembled the bottom motor mounts

should be fun when I start homing

[proud marsh]

There is some people that had to modify the parts because the 2020 extrusion was twisted 😅… but the mesh will tell you how bad your frame it is

or how good… right?

[formal marsh]

we will see

lin rails next

aligning all these nuts is fun

[formal marsh]

RIP lower front piece

[formal marsh]

next up, motors

and leadscrews

[formal marsh]

THE FUSE!

I was forgetting the fuse

[pale cloak]

Oh shit

[formal marsh]

I have it

4 of them actually

just need to screw it in

[proud marsh]

it looks quite cozy in there

[formal marsh]

half of me goes inside that frame/enclosure to work on the back arm

it gets hot

[formal marsh]

motors are in place along with leadscrews

photo later

now on to figure out how to add the fuse

[pale cloak]

Dayum that's going fast

Or at least it seems that way to me

[formal marsh]

heh figuring out the fuse now

[formal marsh]

ok faston and some heatshrink

[formal marsh]

that tilt

[formal marsh]

plans for today, add creality board to box, do basic power wiring, motor wiring, configure for hydra

[formal marsh]

looka like bed holes are not exactly the right place sucks but still gained print area and for sure better heating

z is homing, klicky docking again

remains to do z tilt

some wiring for the bed is done will finish later, new frame will be ordered soon

[proud marsh]

is one off in particular? or all 3?

[formal marsh]

front 2 are 15mm off on the Y

need a machining/cnc service

[proud marsh]

it sucks, wasn’t the bed sold as “hydra bed”?

[formal marsh]

yes but it was advertised as fermio bed, I didn't do the full research

still I saved a ton of money

[formal marsh]

quick and dirty

still needs work but may print something like this to hold the bed in the right place

just need PC-CF

and a working printer

or pay someone to print it

[formal marsh]

need to buy M4 HSI but should work

100HSI because I need 2 😭

[formal marsh]

and this one is too damn high

[proud marsh]

don’t you have some spacers on the bed?

[formal marsh]

I do

8mm

[proud marsh]

on top of the minitanks

[formal marsh]

need more

[proud marsh]

my offset is around 2.6mm

[formal marsh]

mine is 2.6 positive 😅

or above the bed

but damn look at this

[proud marsh]

mine too is above the bed

[formal marsh]

ha but it will hit when printing

[proud marsh]

never happened yet

[formal marsh]

#1019074054285692959 message

turtle's is below

[proud marsh]

yes, I’m using that

[formal marsh]

somehow his is below

I'll print with an ultra short Y

or find more spacers to add

I wonder if m5 shims work

[proud marsh]

I had zero issues with mine being above the bed

[formal marsh]

my klicky magnets pull it up

[proud marsh]

yes, that happens 😅

[formal marsh]

and if I lower the nozzle it triggers

I'll shim it

I don't like it above

I can shim just that side

[proud marsh]

make sure the trihorn doesn’t touch the bed before the nozzle homes

[formal marsh]

it won't

I'll shim it to be near 0

might get 10mm spacers

but you do have a point

[proud marsh]

if you have m4 shims, it might just work, instead of new spacers

[formal marsh]

I don't just m5 1mm

and I don't remember why I got them

rack msybe

no too thick

[proud marsh]

upgrade to 1.1.5?

[formal marsh]

yes

thank you

[proud marsh]

I know how it is

[formal marsh]

also have the rack needed ones in the cart

anassed 110e more of material

oldhams

another pico

more HSI

[proud marsh]

I didn’t shim anything. I have 1 printed spacer leftover, and I don’t know where it goes… I hope it’s an alternative for 9mm belt 😅

[proud marsh]

the oldhams are not neccessary

additionally, there is the wobbleX mod that might be better than oldhams

[formal marsh]

still debating with myself if I should spend the 33e

doesn't wobble x require a specific arm?

[proud marsh]

and maybe there are 3d printed wobblex that works ok

[proud marsh]

there a mod in the community mkd

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1100961592369217546

but yes, it’s a lot of filament to “waste” since you already have legs

[formal marsh]

yeah requires new hydra parts

I want to keep the PCCF

even though they're older ones

[proud marsh]

I would get the oldhams if you see you need them. I got mine for 18€ all the 3

so I just grabbed the deal

[formal marsh]

also they will eat z travel

I'll wait

[proud marsh]

yes, and I am not sure the fix a problem I have

[formal marsh]

goes down to 78

[proud marsh]

I have to make some tower test… not in my priority list atm

[formal marsh]

it compensates the shipping for the new extrusions

selling the original ender

[proud marsh]

wait, are you ordering a new frame? 🫠

[formal marsh]

yes

found a buyer for the OG ender

[proud marsh]

doesn’t feel a lot 78€

[formal marsh]

oh that's not including frame

[proud marsh]

ahhh

[formal marsh]

138+shipping

which is 20

[proud marsh]

yes, I have a similar budget on local shop

with cuts no holes, is around 160~180€

[formal marsh]

cuts no holes+plates+screws+nuts+feet

78 is for a lot of stuff but includes pico switch iec socket etc

then 40 for psu

[proud marsh]

ah right, you need to sell the original creality board

[formal marsh]

yep

[proud marsh]

i applaud the effort on embarking on the roll back to stock creality. I am disheartened only thing about it

[formal marsh]

it's a journey

I'll also be upgrading my frame to be 2040 on the bottom

this along with feet fixes my issue of the z motora

i think that it's noticeable that the z motor location is a little off

need to set those better

[formal marsh]

looks flat

[proud marsh]

it’s pretty flat!!

[pale cloak]

Beautiful.

[formal marsh]

the omnibox wiring is not so beautiful

need to do all the microfits

[formal marsh]

also need to decide where pi. to put the enclosure thermistor

[proud marsh]

where do you source the microfit 3 stuff? I can’t find any kit, just sparse connectors type, and at unreasonable prices

[pale cloak]

You should see the horror I'm working on right now for someone else. It's a secondhand 0.9.8 case and it's bright yellow. 😆

[pale cloak]

AliExpress or DigiKey

not sure if y'all have digikey over there

[formal marsh]

a guy I know ordered them through the company where he works

they were not cheap

we also have mauser.pt

[pale cloak]

Hey, they're headquartered about 1.5hrs from here.

lol, I thought that was Mouser, which is a similar company in the U.S.

[formal marsh]

different one

mauser and mouser

https://mauser.pt/catalog/index.php?cPath=1874_640_2013 @proud marsh

[pale cloak]

Yeah, went to the link and went ohhhh

[formal marsh]

farnell might have did not check, mouser may have as well

[pale cloak]

AliExpress knockoffs are decent quality but, looking back, I'd order the real thing again. Mates better (or at least better than the ones I bought)

[formal marsh]

checked farnell they have but minimum order is insane

thousands of them

[gleaming whale]

we have digikey and mouser here lol i ordered some ssr's for the dishwasher for $10 instead of buying them from miele soldered to a board for $200 and they got here in like 2-3 days from hawaii

[formal marsh]

SSR cost me 15

[gleaming whale]

not the same one lol small ones

[formal marsh]

and still cheaper through the other guy

otherwise cheapest I could find was 25 IIRC

[gleaming whale]

these are tiny amp ones, ssr for the bed here is like $45 😦

[formal marsh]

holy shit

and I thought 25 was expensive

[gleaming whale]

thats $45au so like 22 euro

[pale cloak]

Exchange rates make me chuckle. Everything sounds too cheap or too expensive.

[formal marsh]

ahh AUD

[gleaming whale]

AUD is meant to be climbing at the moment, last time it got close to being 1:1 with USD the GFC happened lol

[formal marsh]

GFC?

[gleaming whale]

global finacial crisis

[formal marsh]

ah

[formal marsh]

extrusions ordered

lead time 5 days 😅

will be 2 anxious weeks

[formal marsh]

X

Y

this does not look good

[pale cloak]

Your X looks amazing. Y definitely has problems.

[formal marsh]

most likely belt tension

let me run the stuff for belt tension

one of them is clearly off

[formal marsh]

not sure if ill go through the efort

frame will be replaced

[pale cloak]

Interesting graph. I'm guessing it's your upper belt.

[proud marsh]

are you going to do blind joints?

[formal marsh]

no same way as stock with corner plates everywhere I can

aka all corners except top ones (gantry) and bottom front (motors)

so 18 plates total

90 screws

as long as I get it square should be fine

bottom will be 2040 instead of 2020

[formal marsh]

my Y might be out of square

I'll print the tool for when I rebuild the frame

[proud marsh]

mine is out of square, I measured around 2~3mm difference. there is little I can do about it, unless I want to tear it down and cut precisely the extrusions

which I don’t have the tools

[formal marsh]

I think its the x that is not properly placed on the X joints

[formal marsh]

still working on wiring the omnibox

[formal marsh]

new extruder motor is here

and new PSU

😄

[formal marsh]

heating up for the first time

[proud marsh]

how much power does the silicone pad have?

mine is fast to heat up, but it needs time to soak and heat-expand evenly

[formal marsh]

300W

still need to test that

next up swap the extruder motor for the new one

tune the amps and run a test print

if all goes well I'll print the SSR support some wago ones and start properly organizing wiring

[formal marsh]

@tired pike

[formal marsh]

Update on checklist:

Fix the clog/whatever it is issue (fully disassemble hotend clean and test)
Add toolboard to reduce amount of wiring ✅
Move electronics into OmniBox ✅
Add exhaust fan to enclosure 🕐
Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Print more braces for the frame ❌ (new frame with plates so might not need these)
Hydra (will use old creality board for Z motors) ✅
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
replace dead extruder motor
Reprint temporary spacers
Print new omnibox tray for dual pico
Print new purge bucket
Print SSR mount
Print PETG PSU mounts
Crimp all remaining microfits
Test black or white led attachment (frame mount or enclosure)

This never ends

[tired pike]

Almost all done!😅

[formal marsh]

Yeah right

🤣

[formal marsh]

shit

🤦 I bought a damn 12V PSU I'm an idiot

[formal marsh]

Stock in August...

[formal marsh]

Ok found one, ordered

Now back to the old one I have a lot to print

[proud marsh]

you can buy another 12V and connect them in serie 😂

[pale cloak]

Wouldn't fit in the case, unfortunately

[formal marsh]

don't give me ideas

[pale cloak]

Giving you ideas always ends up with me buying more HSI. I'm not sure how that works, but it does. 😉

[proud marsh]

you can make 2 onmibox 1 psu each, 1 mcu each... right 🤔

just need to connect in serie the psu first

[formal marsh]

oh dear

need more filament

need to go back to the old one fast

a lot to print

btw after swapping motors does it even make sense to recalibrate e steps?

[proud marsh]

maybe.. in theory you should every time you change somethign in the extruder.... I never did it again 😅

[formal marsh]

I mean still 10 toothed gear

(can adjust just ratio so)

I see no reason to

just wondering

[proud marsh]

after various calibration I ended up with the exact same number as in the sherpa mini recommendation, so I think you are fine with the old value tbh

[formal marsh]

RIP hotend

[gleaming whale]

Whole thing? I bent a revo nozzle with some bad g-code, that was an expensive mistake lol it ended up killing my revo heater core slowly after too.

[formal marsh]

most likely not

throat clogged

possible heat creep

or bad filament removal

disassembling

I need to swap some screws anyway

been holding that up for a while

(months)

unstuck not replacing screws yet

[formal marsh]

Ops

Twice as high

Rotation distance 8 micro steps 32

[gleaming whale]

Explains the layers not looking stuck properly

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale lead screw is 2mm 4 threads

Should be 8 but I might have screwed it with the 32 microsteps

[gleaming whale]

Nah micro steps is just how much it splits the full steps

[formal marsh]

I wonder if I got the wrong pitch

Might just measure how much it moves

And compare

[gleaming whale]

If it’s double the height just halve your rotation distance

[formal marsh]

I did not measure the part but looks like it

[gleaming whale]

For example, the common "T8 leadscrew" has a rotation distance of 8 (it has a pitch of 2mm and has 4 separate threads)

That’s from klipper’s site, but measuring how much it moves compared to what you ask it to move will sort it out to what you need.

[formal marsh]

microsteps do make a difference

going from 32 to 16 makes it move the right amount

[gleaming whale]

Mine didn’t change when I changed mine?

[formal marsh]

ohhh

damn you creality board

until the second pico arrives I cant really test that theory

but should be it

[formal marsh]

printing fine now, except the warp, might be dirty bed

[formal marsh]

IT PRINTS!

on to print my new purge bucket

[formal marsh]

small issues, filament temp too low for the speed I was printing

and now it got stuck again

WAT

that's it I'm swapping the hotend

@proud marsh does your crazy handle the enclosure well?

[pale cloak]

I've got a friend with a Crazy NF in an enclosure. It works well for him.

[proud marsh]

I still have a very leaky enclosure and I have parked the nf crazy to go back to the rapido (bambu hotend clone arriving maybe in the next few days…)

I am really curious to see how it performs… rapido vs nf crazy vs bambu clone on eva 2.4. I’ll do a proper comparison when the printer is properly enclosed

[formal marsh]

might because I insist on having it closed

without fan

[proud marsh]

do you have a good fan on the heatsink?

I already ask this I think 🤔

[formal marsh]

you did

need to double check the specs but always worked well

[formal marsh]

🤦 filament path

not even by hand I can pull it

let alone the extruder

[pale cloak]

That'll do it. Too much bowden?

[formal marsh]

1m 3mm ID

just the way it comes out from the drybox

It was the oposite of what should

[formal marsh]

prints fine now

warps like crazy

always on the same spot

[formal marsh]

going fine now

also had an epiphany on the IS for my Y axis

the melted standoffs 🤦

[formal marsh]

warping again damn

already flipped the sheet

[gleaming whale]

Looks a bit better

[proud marsh]

I had to increase the cooling to reduce the warping in the enclosure

[formal marsh]

Running at 75% after third layer

Might try going 100

[gleaming whale]

What filament is it?

[formal marsh]

PETG

[proud marsh]

ahh, right

[formal marsh]

Always printed fine before enclosure 😅

[proud marsh]

I was thinking of asa, maybe 100% than

[gleaming whale]

Yea pass lol I haven’t figured out petg for my printer yet

[formal marsh]

I'll try 100 on the next large print

filament path is being a pain as well

[formal marsh]

New checklist

Fix the clog/whatever it is issue (fully disassemble hotend clean and test) ✅
Add exhaust fan to enclosure 🕐
Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
replace dead extruder motor ✅
Reprint temporary spacers ✅
Print new omnibox tray for dual pico (printing) ✅
Print new purge bucket (printed needs shorter mounts) 🕙
Print SSR mount
Print PETG PSU mounts
Crimp all remaining microfits
Test black or white led attachment (frame mount or enclosure)

it's getting shorter

[formal marsh]

IT'S GETTING STUCK AGAIN, NEW HOTEND NOW!

[formal marsh]

new hotend old CHT

instant clog

so may have found the culprit

trying a print now

without CHT

[proud marsh]

Hopefully you’ll receive some clean filament soon 😕

cleaner thingn

[formal marsh]

I hope not today

[proud marsh]

I should have sent it with the tracking 🫤

[formal marsh]

no worries

[formal marsh]

🤮

[pale cloak]

Ouch

It'll hold a board...?

[formal marsh]

yes

[formal marsh]

top vs bottom

[pale cloak]

The top surfaces that aren't at the very top of the print look okay. That's weird.

[formal marsh]

last layers look like they didn't print

[pale cloak]

I hate to say it, but that could be that it's having a hard time pulling filament.

[formal marsh]

that's what I was going to say

[pale cloak]

Eww, is that a bitcoin logo?

That entirely saps the fun from the gif.

[formal marsh]

it's inside the enclosure

need to test with 2mm ID vs 3mmID

or change ingress location, enclosure is a little on the short aide

that shows on the can wiring

not loving the idea of making a new one

[proud marsh]

where?

[formal marsh]

even manually it's a little hard to pull the filament out of the box

definitely need a shorter path

don't really know how

I wonder if direct without bowden to the enclosure ingress is better

but I'll have issues with the rack in the future

@proud marsh how is that flexible one working

[pale cloak]

i deleted the gif. it was dumb.

[proud marsh]

is working ok, but I haven’t tested it that much. until now it has been flawless

a quick print also

[formal marsh]

might try it out

[formal marsh]

stuck again

I'm getting crazy with this

it's not something consistent

it can print for hours fine or it gets stuck

might take it out of the enclosure to test

new frame might arrive tomorrow since I'll be moving it might do it

[proud marsh]

something dumb I am plagued by, knots or tangles in the spool?

maybe you can try to prin without any reverse Bowden, I went crazy for weeks, and it turn out it was that

I also had/have very bad top surfaces at times, very uneven, it’s when the part warp slightly (maybe not even noticeable at first) and the nozzle gets too close to the part

that also results in a risk of clogs

[formal marsh]

no tangles

I'll remove as much bowden as I can

when I swap the frame

no enclosure

nothing

if it returns to normal printing add enclosure with same bowden only

[proud marsh]

yes, too many variables have changed since before enclosure.

[formal marsh]

exactly, I need to start from the basics

printing SSR tray open door now

we'll see

[formal marsh]

SSR skipped one layer

but otherwise good

also mounting the 120mm fan on the enclosure to try and control temperature better

@pale cloak where are you mounting the enclosure thermistor?

[pale cloak]

I try to keep it elevated near nozzle height but away from the bed. It's usually near the back frame.

Not near the metal, either

[formal marsh]

new frame 😁

getting is square is not easy

not perfect but good enough

[formal marsh]

printing with the filament pre-pulled no issues

[formal marsh]

testing now with this, manually pulls a lot better

[formal marsh]

@wary forum here's the BOM for my frame

[pale cloak]

That new frame looks great.

[formal marsh]

@pale cloak WAGO

new bucket holder printing

0 issues printing now

https://giphy.com/gifs/floridageorgialine-smooth-florida-georgia-line-KzDqC8LvVC4lshCcGK

[pale cloak]

Wago Lever [Things We Don't Say Here]

[formal marsh]

say that word and I will kick you in it

but damn feels good to finally print full speed with 0 issues again

a lot of HSI to put in place after

[pale cloak]

Sounds like a relaxing Friday evening for you, lol

[formal marsh]

one support for the purge bucket

another printing

a lot to assemble this weekend

frame swap bucket more omnibox parts

more wiring

UPDATE

Add exhaust fan to enclosure 🕐 (needs wiring)
Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
Print new purge bucket (printed needs shorter mounts) ✅
Print SSR mount ✅
Print PETG PSU mounts ✅
Crimp all remaining microfits
Test black or white led attachment (frame mount or enclosure)
Swap frame
Mount all the new stuff (omnibox and bucket)
PID Tune ✅
Calibrate IS

[formal marsh]

One more item, add an automation to Home Assistant if the Hotend goes above 300C or the bed above 115 kill printer power

Also printed these to test fit on the bed, if these work well I'll get them in PC-CF

if PC-CF fails me I'll go with HT PA15-CF

PETG will melt for sure with bed at 70 😅

[pale cloak]

BUT PETG IS GOOD FOR ANYTHING

[formal marsh]

until I start printing ABS and ASA 😅

[formal marsh]

well automation is done

[formal marsh]

crap 1 week

[formal marsh]

return get money order new

screw it

[formal marsh]

YET ANOTHER UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Add exhaust fan to enclosure 🕐 (needs wiring)
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
Crimp all remaining microfits
Test black or white led attachment (frame mount or enclosure)
Swap frame
Mount all the new stuff (omnibox and bucket)
Calibrate IS
Get yet another new extruder motor
Preliminary test fit of bed brackets to move into proper position

[pale cloak]

Looks like you got a bit done from last time, though

[formal marsh]

mostly cleanup the list and add the extruder.motor again

could have an LED mount printed but the damn motor bork

[pale cloak]

Damn Swedish motors.

[pale cloak]

That was a joke about "bork"

It was terrible, even by my standards.

I remain proud of it.

[formal marsh]

I didn't get it 😅

[proud marsh]

it’s from the muppets show 😂

[pale cloak]

https://tenor.com/view/swedish-chef-bork-gif-26044302

[formal marsh]

Test fit of the bed adjustment pieces

needs a small trim on the RTV proper screws and HSI

which are on the way

[pale cloak]

Looks like it's going to work very well.

[formal marsh]

feels solid even with m3 screws where it should be m4 and nuts instead of the hsi

I'll just produce the correct step files and send them away to the guy to print

I'll be losing extra 10mm on the Z

but it's worth the gain in XY

[feral briar]

+1 for upping txqueuelen to 1024 - that fixed one or two issues I was having (was using 128 previoiusly).

[formal marsh]

@pale cloak these

because voron bed

[pale cloak]

What did you end up getting the part made from?

[formal marsh]

PC-CF found a guy here in Portugal

[pale cloak]

Oh that's right. He was really affordable.

My brain is a little off today. Woke up like five times last night.

[formal marsh]

like 3eur

[formal marsh]

new frame back into the box

with the PETG bed fixtures/thingies/need a name for them

VB4H?

[formal marsh]

also decided to weigh it, 28kg

feels a little shaky not sure if its due to the feet or if something is off square due to moving it

[proud marsh]

with the enclosure ?

[formal marsh]

without

[proud marsh]

wow!
stock ender 5 is ~11kg

[formal marsh]

and no electronics other than motors hotend etc

(basically does not include what is inside the omnibox)

[formal marsh]

imagine with the PSU MCU etc added

[proud marsh]

maybe you’ve got quality extrusion instead

[formal marsh]

I'd say omnibox as it is is around 2kg

frame alone was 12kg IIRC

don't forget I got 2040 for bottom

hoping to get new PSU second pico etc by the end of the week

[proud marsh]

yes, but it’s twice as much.. ok the bed alone might weight 5~6 kg

[formal marsh]

new extruder motor only friday 😭

[proud marsh]

but maybe you’ll also get the standoff

[pale cloak]

That's part of it. I wonder how much are the corner brackets + screws + t nuts?

[formal marsh]

they came in a separate box so I might have the weight

[formal marsh]

I hope

[proud marsh]

ahh, those are heavy, I got a bag with 12 of those was impressively heavy, felt like ~2kg or so

[formal marsh]

whole bed package was around 4.5kg

[proud marsh]

also the steel rails are heavier than the roller carriage

[formal marsh]

that alone makes 16.5kg

[proud marsh]

so everything adds up

[pale cloak]

Ohhh, yeah, the bed

[proud marsh]

you have 6 rails in there

[pale cloak]

Dang, we really strap a lot of weight on these.

[formal marsh]

Y rails X rail etc might be the remaining 10kg or so

doesn't seem to add up

[proud marsh]

we should all get a gantry like @gritty summit

[pale cloak]

I was just about to mention that! Insane.

[formal marsh]

but gantry doesnt weight 10kg

I'll need to check the scale again

something wrong

find the mistake

[pale cloak]

6kg of fasteners?

[formal marsh]

13kg or 27lbs...

I read the wrong scale

[pale cloak]

Oh

[formal marsh]

🤦

math doesn't add up again but

12kg worth of frame 4 of bed

minus packaging weight+gantry

damn I'm an idiot

[formal marsh]

frame - 3.8
nuts bolts and corner plates - 1.1

[formal marsh]

weird the tracking mentioned 12kg

[formal marsh]

good news is pico arrives oh the 29th

[formal marsh]

motor friday, PSU still unknown but I'm willing to bet that by the end of the week I'll have 2 printers

[formal marsh]

gah can't find the stock part cooling fan

[formal marsh]

look a near stock e5pro

[proud marsh]

have you lost a corner bracket?

[formal marsh]

no it has a cover

the nostalgia

[proud marsh]

I didn’t know!!

cool, was it a mod? or stock? it wasn’t in mine

[formal marsh]

mod

[proud marsh]

you need to print other 3 of those… you can print it with the new ender 5, 6 hours print each

[formal marsh]

hell no, whatever I print for this one it's on the merc

this one will only print a calibration cube and then it's boxed and shipped

too dann slow

[proud marsh]

you were quite fast in putting it back together

[formal marsh]

I was surprised as well

I think it will take more time to tune Marlin for it

(yeah the guy buying wants to start from there)

[proud marsh]

and those stock stepper driver… well.. I forgot but I remember I bought a skr mini within the first week because of the noise

[formal marsh]

this board actually has 2209 but in standalone mode

creality 4.2.2

sucks because of stealthchop not being possible to disable

[proud marsh]

I wonder how many corners creality managed to cut… and if it was worth at the end

probably it was

[proud marsh]

@formal marsh I got a sktr pico as well... over can 😄

[formal marsh]

my second one arrives today

[proud marsh]

reading the specs it's better than the skr e3 mini

[formal marsh]

but I'll connect it with usb

[proud marsh]

well, it looks like it's easy to wire up... what the type of connectors on the sides? normal jst?

they look like it... but you never know 😄 those

[formal marsh]

they are

[proud marsh]

have you considered wire it also over can? I think once you have the network you can leverage on that instead of dealing with usb cables

[formal marsh]

yes but I got a hub inside the box

I'm using an android phone for klipperscreen

[proud marsh]

yes, I was just thinking it might give you more freedom, usb cables are bulky

[formal marsh]

sort of the transceiver adds volume as well

easier to manage just cables

[proud marsh]

yes I get it 😄

[formal marsh]

I wouldn't think twice if I didn't have the hub 😆

transceiver is less volume than hub

[proud marsh]

super pissed about having to get one, but I'm also looking forward to get it

[formal marsh]

it's a good board

only complaint I have is the drivers not being swappable

[proud marsh]

well, it's a pro and a cons

[formal marsh]

less volume which the name implies

a driver dies, no swap

unless you know someone who can solder a new one

I may know actually 😅

[proud marsh]

I remove and ball soldered a new video card chip in my laptop once, it can't be harder than that, right?

[formal marsh]

that is the process

[proud marsh]

heatgun, loooooots of flux

but than... I think you can have this board for cheap, I would just buy another 😅

[formal marsh]

I hate throwing stuff away

so might ask the guy who's been providing me with electronics stuff

[proud marsh]

yeah, I have a pile of semi-broken stuff I keep trying to use, than breaking other stuff while doing so...

[pale cloak]

I finally threw a crap ton of electronics away a few years ago. Yes, I'll need to buy a new UPS now instead of a new battery, but it takes up soooo much less space!

[formal marsh]

APC 1500VA minimum

[pale cloak]

That's what all of my desktops are on

750VA is surprisingly enough for a 350W printer

[formal marsh]

I got, home server, printer, routers etc on one

750 is short with a 230V bed

glad I got a big one

first time I powered the printer with the new bed shelly killed it on warmup

[pale cloak]

My mom's CPAP will be on one by Friday. Had a scare where the power went out and she still had it on.

[formal marsh]

PSU was eating 200 bed another 300

shelly had a limit of 400 had to raise that guy to 600 or so

[formal marsh]

scary

[pale cloak]

Yeah 😕

[formal marsh]

PSU remaining

ohh I like these 120mm fans

[pale cloak]

They are FUN

[formal marsh]

I'll need a new back plate on my omnibox, another 4pin for these babies

this will be a nice SCS

[dapper latch]

Measure the fan thoroughly and compare it features with the model. Those fans have slightly different measurements and characteristics - unless you use exactly the same fans as the maker (assume you use djsplice’s model?)

[formal marsh]

that is the plan, thanks for the heads up

[dapper latch]

NP. Had fitment issues with both Gdstime and with Delta fans, each had a different problem and I had to barbarically modify it with a dremel (couldn’t justify a reprint and didn’t want to bother djsplice more than the one time I already had 😬)

[formal marsh]

these are unbranded

quite silent for the air they push