Flow - Born from an E5Pro

[formal marsh]

still.needs

[formal marsh]

https://github.com/nicolai-wachenschwan/arc-overhang-prusaslicer-integration considering giving this a try next time I need overhangs

[pale cloak]

Interesting. It mentions layers will be much thicker, though

[formal marsh]

it will depend on each print, overgangs are already rare

[formal marsh]

another item for my list, reorganize my macros

[formal marsh]

finally printing latest merc version

along with an unklicky

because why not

[formal marsh]

too close to bed though

might not be waiting on heatsoak for mesh z calibrate etc

[formal marsh]

purple printing still too close but I'm lazy to restart now -_-

[proud marsh]

better too close than having parts flying around while printing

[formal marsh]

true but I don't like the finish and has a sort of elephant foot due to that too

but they just need to be functional here

[proud marsh]

warp wold have been much much worse

[formal marsh]

warp means reprint

[proud marsh]

so 1.1.6 it’s the all new set? x joints front and motor towers?

[formal marsh]

joints are still tagged 1.1.5

[proud marsh]

I tough it was only the back towers… ahh ok

[formal marsh]

but I'm on 1.1.4

the shimless version

[rustic pasture]

Hi. Can not find this exact type for wago 222 3x2. Do you have a link to the stl? Thanks.

[formal marsh]

can get you the link for STEP

https://grabcad.com/library/wago-holder-1

F3D

[formal marsh]

amidst chaos, latest merc version is printed

might print hydra just for the sake of having sparea

still need to reprint front and back for eva3

[pale cloak]

good looking prints

[formal marsh]

heh not that good really

[gcode_macro LUBRICATE_Z] gcode: G28 Z_TILT_ADJUST CALIBRATE_Z {% for i in range(5) %} G1 Z0 F3000 G1 Z{printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z} F3000 {% endfor %} G1 Z{printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z/2} F3000

small macro I did to move Z up and down a few times to help with spreading lubricant

will do something like this for XY

[formal marsh]

also recalibrated klicky switch offset a little

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Upgrade to 1.1.6 and change colour (reprinted install needed) 🕐
Start planning EVA3/micro mantis? (printed EVA3 need to test fit it)🕐
Lubricate rails and lead screws (yeah this should have been done a long ago) ✅
Print SCS (because why not) ✅
Finish TR (can't put too many details but can share pictures of the thing after its built)
Print at least 2 ERCP for the TR

[formal marsh]

damn Z

[formal marsh]

great the thread lock on the left nylon bracket does not come off

heat inserts have eaten the plastic so now I cant take it off non destructively

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK

[pale cloak]

oh shit

[formal marsh]

new ones

this time without HSI

might print a pair in ABS for PLA is enough

[ornate flame]

What thread Lock was that lol

[formal marsh]

some blue by Ceys

the other side came off

this one didnt

[ornate flame]

I use purple

[ornate flame]

Oof

Going to need some pliers to get that off..

[formal marsh]

yep

it's off, the screw survived

now to redesign for nuts and order new ones 😭

10 das waiting

definitely printing ABS ones, should survive on PLA prints

[formal marsh]

well for now without them it prints

[pale cloak]

Eeek

What about using a lock washer instead of thread locker?

Or is it a flat head?

[formal marsh]

I got new nuts

printing now without the adapters (losing 30mm of bed)

doing a quick test to find out if my ringing comes from them

if it does I need a new bed 😭

[formal marsh]

came off the bed but looks better

not perfect but better

[pale cloak]

Hmm. Think it's the adapters? Or maybe the exaggerate something else?

[formal marsh]

I thought it would be, but having these side by side, same gcode they look too similar

[formal marsh]

printing ABS ones, these should be enough until new SLS ones arrive

[formal marsh]

I wonder if ABS ones will survive 100C bed

might tive them a try

[formal marsh]

So printed 2 sets, will put one on and heat to 110 for 30minutes

If they survive I'm not even ordering new ones

[ornate flame]

Seems like your magnet is tiny

Might have to size down the tank

[formal marsh]

@ornate flame I was suspecting something was off

I'll take one off and measure tomorrow

[solar stratus]

have seen a few people with undersized magnets

not something we were aware was a thing until maybe a few months ago?

[formal marsh]

@solar stratus yeah I remember seeing some discuss about it

[formal marsh]

measured one 3.95mm

printing 4mm tanks

[proud marsh]

with abs shrinkage they should be a snug fit, I had to push mine in pretty hard

[formal marsh]

this will be a pain I have to remove the bed

hopefully it improves

also had the ABS bed adapters with bed at 100c for 30mins and things survived

minitanks are 40min so another good test

[solar stratus]

Diameter, not height

Height isn't as critical

[formal marsh]

@solar stratus need to check but it tight on the tank

[formal marsh]

a little better, magnet has 11.9

11.97 11.95 11.9 are the magnet sizes

[formal marsh]

might print a 3mm one to see if they tighten more

[solar stratus]

They do have a gap designed in them

[formal marsh]

I see

so is that level of movement normal?

[solar stratus]

Yes, it shouldn't move while printing

[formal marsh]

alright I'll start printing and keep an eye on it

[formal marsh]

not much progress lately as I'm busy printing a thousand parts (literally 1000)

[formal marsh]

might get a pi with 8gb and PoE overkill for the printer yes but PoE is nice and in stock

just lost a bed of parts due to too much load on the server

[pale cloak]

ah, know I see why you're getting a pi.

[formal marsh]

it happened once before

but now I'm getting afraid it worsens

[pale cloak]

=/

Thankfully pi prices dropped

[formal marsh]

still 86 for a pi4B with 8GB

[pale cloak]

eek. I only use 1GB and 2GB ones

[formal marsh]

70 if I wait until November

from what I have seen only the 8gb one has PoE

hold on

these mfers lied still needs the hat

ok need an alternate with native poe

[pale cloak]

ouch

why native PoE? remote shut down?

[formal marsh]

less worries on power

just plug ethernet and bam network and power

1 less port on the back too

[proud marsh]

I have a 5v psu to power the sbc, it takes the power from the same 230v as the ssr and the 24psu

[formal marsh]

more volume

might do a pi with poe hat

[tired pike]

https://mauser.pt/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=096-8615

yes still not cheap

can I ask what is PoE?

[formal marsh]

power over Ethernet

@tired pike also if you want a pi let me know you might need to wait but I can get better prices than mauser

the 8gb one difference is around 15e

[tired pike]

Ok

Thank you

But already have one waiting for my next build

Only 1gb but it's good enough

[formal marsh]

shit

I wonder if these belts are giving up on life

returned yesterday, today they are like this

an yesterday y wanted 2hump_ei today mzv

[ornate flame]

When they're new

they stretch

that's why you "break" them in with some printing for a few hours, and then redo tension

[formal marsh]

they're not new

[ornate flame]

Oh

All bolts still tight?

[formal marsh]

yup

double checked something funky on my Y

all I did was rerun shaper

need to check if toolboard is tight and consider getting accelerometer for the nozzle

too much variance

[formal marsh]

loose bolts everywhere on the toolboard

checked rails etc forgot toolboard 🤦

and yet another item for my list print a spare sherpa mini as this one seems to have some wear on a few areas

got some extra stuff at 100 hz

will deal with it later after upgrading to 1.1.6

later in maybe 2 weeks

[formal marsh]

evaluating whether I can reuse my 350mm rail to cut down to 330 for the lightweight gantry

will be short 2.5mm on one side, @solar stratus / @ornate flame is that an issue?

[solar stratus]

You would need to make your own endstop block

[formal marsh]

one of the sides is fine I can put that one on the endstop side no?

I'm also fine with making my own endstop if needed, at least I don't have to spend the money on the rail

[solar stratus]

Maybe?

[formal marsh]

good enough for me

[tired pike]

Does the lightweight gantry needs a 330mm rail? Is that lightweight extrution from aliexpress?

[solar stratus]

It does need a 330 rail to line up with the hole spacing

[formal marsh]

@tired pike yep I'll be cutting my 350mm one

[proud marsh]

looking at how the rails bolt into the gantry, and the placement of the M5 tapped holes for the x-joints, there is little room not to cut the rail from both sides 🤔

I assume the holes are evenly spaced from the edges in the 350mm rail

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh if you look at the image only one side needs to be cut, holes are spaced at 25mm, on the 350mm one the edge is actually shorter

by 2.5mm

[proud marsh]

I have seen the figure above, but I haven’t watched what was in it 😅. the endstop has a small step designed to set on the rail, it might be 1 or 2mm, you could design an endstop that goes down straight and basically gain back some of the mm lost

[formal marsh]

don't forget one side will be with the right length

I can use that one on the endstop side or just adjust the block

either way it works just need to find a.place to get it cut, I lack proper tools for steel cutting

[proud marsh]

I was wondering if I even manage to use the full length of the rail on the other side, I mean if the carriage actually reaches the edge before the toolhead bumps into something

2.5mm is not much anyway

[formal marsh]

easy to check you have it installed, pull it all the way to the left see how much rail remains

[tired pike]

@formal marsh I can help you with that

Is there any discount code for buying 2 extrusions together? 😆

[formal marsh]

let me see

does not

[tired pike]

Ok👌

[formal marsh]

@tired pike can still order 2 together if you want one

[tired pike]

What about shipping? Does it make a difference?

[formal marsh]

free shipping I think

[tired pike]

Oh nevermind then

I will order mine to my house

Thank you

[proud marsh]

none, actually I was almost afraid a ball popping out from the mgn carriage 😛

[formal marsh]

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Upgrade to 1.1.6 and change colour (reprinted install needed) 🕐
Swap to EVA3 (printed waiting) 🕐
Finish TR (can't put too many details but can share pictures of the thing after its built)
Print at least 2 ERCP for the TR
Replace gantry to lightweight
Reprint top X axis joints because I will no longer need the cut ones
Print a spare Sherpa mini

[formal marsh]

I keep adding stuff

[pale cloak]

It happens

Often, I find

[formal marsh]

more often than it should

[formal marsh]

finally made myself draw a new camera support

[proud marsh]

and where are you mounting it?

[formal marsh]

front right 2040

[proud marsh]

nice place, slightly tilted I see, would just reach on top of the tensioning tower

[formal marsh]

going to put it on the inside of the extrusion as I have the front dropped

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh same place different mount and higher

[pale cloak]

oooh good spot

[formal marsh]

I do like the angle just needs to be higher

also need to reprint top X as I won't need the cuts anymore

[formal marsh]

after printing a thousand pieces, back to regular business aka more upgrades

sherpa accents are done, next is X block for lightweight and then proper top X joints

then in black new cam mount and sherpa core

[formal marsh]

suddenly a lot of layer shifting, AB steppers are stupid hot

might need some way to cool them down

[proud marsh]

at what current are you running them?

@formal marsh are those the LDOs, 2504 right?

[formal marsh]

yep

1.4A

worth mentioning enclosure was at 41C 😆

and I was stupid on the accels....

aaand I found my problem

loose belts 🤦

[formal marsh]

and now magnets getting mad at the heat

I really need some proper maintenance

[formal marsh]

terrible gaps

[pale cloak]

which magnets?

[formal marsh]

klicky ones

they were not glued

[pale cloak]

ohhhh

[proud marsh]

too much PA?

[formal marsh]

I think it was something else, I was playing with normal vs arachne perimeters might have used the wrong one

[brave urchin]

Cam? Which one? 😁

[formal marsh]

cheapest I found on amazon

https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/gp/product/B08B73KHKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

focus is flaky

[brave urchin]

Can I get a screenshot of it? The transition to spain is confusing my phone. Sorry dump

[gleaming whale]

https://www.trust.com/en/product/23637-tyro-full-hd-webcam

[brave urchin]

Thanks

I'm wondering if the digital zoom works.

[formal marsh]

did not try AFAIK it's just FHD

since I just want an obvious vision if the print is fine or borked it's enough

[formal marsh]

plans for today run test wiring on the TR

[formal marsh]

also new camera mount and camera view

I like it

@brave urchin full res view

also belts came loose again, I think I'll move to EVA3 before lightweight arrives

should be a quick swap and retune after

[brave urchin]

How close does zoom get?

[formal marsh]

no zoom that's it

you can still zoom on the image/video but that's it 1920x1080

[brave urchin]

I thought there was a digital zoom

[formal marsh]

no, but as it is at least for my purpose looks great, need to run a test print though

[formal marsh]

@brave urchin one of the latest ones

[brave urchin]

this was picked why? instead of ercf

[formal marsh]

because I like beta stuff

and because it's a lot simpler IMO

[brave urchin]

ok

[formal marsh]

I already have the motors on though

[gleaming whale]

Is that your Tradrack?

[formal marsh]

yep

[gleaming whale]

Looks awesome, is it near release or still closed beta?

[formal marsh]

still closed beta

might become open soon

need to wrap it up and start wiring it

[formal marsh]

ok so belts are short

not sure I have enough for eva3

[proud marsh]

costs and complexity? I’ve built mine with most of the ender 5 leftover, a servo and a 10mm mgn9 rail (it’s 15cm long in total with 5 lanes)

[brave urchin]

has it been tested?

[proud marsh]

beta tested 😛

Yes, it works. It’s part of my start/end gcode even when I don’t do multi material. just load unload the color/material I need (automatically it load the first lane, but I could load another by the console if I want)

[brave urchin]

cool

[proud marsh]

I printed the all thing in 2 plates, basically overnight. and it assemble quite easily even if there are no instructions but just a cad-like model. development is very active

[brave urchin]

hows tip cutting?

[proud marsh]

they are still thinking about it. for now is just tip shaping with a gcode

a part some filament that really don’t like this, it works very well

[brave urchin]

no hang ups or anything?

[proud marsh]

well, sometimes. but lately didn’t gave me any problems. maybe I adjusted in the right places. there are mods to include an encoder where usually there is just a sensor to detect the filament in the tradrack toolhead, it seems nice and useful (I have the encoder after the tradrack, not builtin) and apparently the tradrack is even supported by the happy hare v2, which is the new version of the ercf software

[pale cloak]

How's the move to EVA 3 going? Stuck on belts ATM?

[formal marsh]

nope, have a look

I had some powgee belt

I won't have spare but I can order later

[pale cloak]

Nice!

[formal marsh]

second belt in time to cut them up

I still need to crimp new klicky duct wiring

and solder the sensor

PTFE sizes will be tricky as the sensor is in the middle

@pale cloak need a little help

which side is to the front

[pale cloak]

The graduated lip faces backwards

I think. Not entirely sure it does anything.

[formal marsh]

graduated aka fillet?

filament sensor to put after sherpa is done too

now need to cut the screws for the switch (too long)

and then assemble, replace sherpa body and ready to tension

still need to print rapido mount (crazy will do for now)

[pale cloak]

the right side (where it slants) will face backwards when installed.

towards the x extrusion

[formal marsh]

thanks

[formal marsh]

also lighting above is bad but that's the new colour scheme

EVA still needs 2 pieces in purple

but for now black will do

also RIP parts printed by @tired pike they served me well now they become spares

[tired pike]

RIP 😁

Where can I get the EVA3 stl's?

the official parts is still the EVA2.4, right?

[formal marsh]

@tired pike yes hang on a sec EVA3 is here https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1041406799342997544

any questions ping @pale cloak

EVA3 almost there

and this crazy is not in best shape

need to fix the old one

[formal marsh]

this one will have to print the rapido nount

[formal marsh]

next is UHF

[proud marsh]

Also your hydra chain sag on the side? mine was straight once I superglued the first joint, but after fiddling around with something else it started to sag again (I cracked the superglue and the chain moves again)

[tired pike]

Thanks for the tip 😁

[tired pike]

Have you thought on the VzBot toolhead?

[formal marsh]

it does

[formal marsh]

a little but I like the aesthetics of EVA

[tired pike]

The EVA3 for the Mercury, can it take the 4028 fan? Without losing any XY travel

[formal marsh]

IDK might be worth asking on the cannel

that's the annoying thing about eva3 its bulky

vz maaaaybe when alu one comes out

[proud marsh]

I wonder if there is a better way than glue (I printed several versions of it, all of them don’t hold the chain for too long)

and it really feels right when the chain stay straight

[formal marsh]

I don't mind mine sagging, also the bed wire is 2.5mm² overkill for the bed and heavy as fuck

I could use maybe .75

or even .5

[proud marsh]

also I used beefed up cables, maybe that’s why the first joint doesn’t hold

[formal marsh]

I just have 2.5 because I was not going with hydra

and I needed longer cable for the stock bed

[formal marsh]

eww

[formal marsh]

after of over 1h of trying to find why Z offset was being calculated so off, found that the position where I was probing the switch was not right due to it move after swapping to eva3

🤦

[proud marsh]

do you have same/less/more clearance on the back with eva3?

[formal marsh]

good question, I had to increase max Y

to reach the sexbolt properly

still hits the stepper towers, but it already did before

I just never travel there

when homing if Y is too further back hits thr tower by 2mm

might give in and eventually go mantis

[formal marsh]

or... try vz

but I know what happens if I try vz

[formal marsh]

z offset still a little flaky

[proud marsh]

you’d need to build a vzbot?

[formal marsh]

😅 I'll buy the alu head when it shows up

looking at the CAD vz doesn't seem to gain much in the back

and this random z offset issue is annoying me

need to check if the klicky duct is ok, it's the only part that changed

[proud marsh]

you know, I keep heading to the mellow shop and checking out if they have a merc option other than RR and hevort… than I check the Goliath and think about it…

[formal marsh]

hahaha are you saying goodbye to the rapido

[proud marsh]

no no, it’s just thinking about it

[formal marsh]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mODBhfk got one of these arriving monday

[proud marsh]

I’d have to change soo many things, klicky and stuff. might be a too radical change for little benefit

[formal marsh]

hahaha

I'm not very happy with the eva swap

belts do grab better, old clips were fucky again (and I don't remember if they were petg or asa)

[proud marsh]

I’m slowly doing it, by going uhf duct on the eva2

[formal marsh]

now this weird issue with z calibration

it's not consistent

[proud marsh]

but I have constantly fiddling with z calibration as well

[formal marsh]

by at least 0.1

but I can run 3 calibrations and they will have too much variance, it wasn't like that

[proud marsh]

I have to retune the first layer to objectively see what’s the real offset now

[formal marsh]

I'd have a random issue retune and I would be good for weeks

today every print is different

[proud marsh]

check the numbers, if it’s bed to probe or nozzle to bolt or probe to bolt that changes the most

I sometimes have variations due to the nozzle to bolt changing a lot

but things gets more consistent if I home z before each calibration

I am marginally concerned about the weird behaviour, but I still haven’t investigated why’s that. too many things to do, and not a real issue yet, but it might escalate and making bad 1st layers soon

[formal marsh]

I'll start logging the offsets

[tired pike]

Mister I had the similar problem forever in my V-core 500
It end up by finding it has bimetal thermal expation on the x gantry
The aluminium extrution expands more than the rail when heat up and afecting the z offset

Dual rail in the X gantry solve my problem

but it is 600mm long x gantry

Not sure if the mercury being smaller can be affected by this

but its something to thing about it

[formal marsh]

hmm lightweight gantry might help as well

but these inconsistencies are with cold printer

calibrate z should in theory compensate after heat soaka but you never know

printed 2 pieces today and both printed fine

going for a third

[tired pike]

You are running klicky right?
I have heard that sometimes the micro switch goes bad (and it needs to be replaced) and something with the magnets not stay in their place

[formal marsh]

yep klicky, might be the switch on the sexbolt

[proud marsh]

you have to try unklicky, especially if you are going to add that volcano thingy

[formal marsh]

yeah I know...

I think there's a unklicky style sexbolt as well

I'm also struggling to reach 20mm³/s without the CHT still need to try to unclog that guy

[formal marsh]

side note my bed bracket thingies are holding well even 100C temps on the bed

[formal marsh]

new nozzles, finally got a .6, volcano is .4 and an adapter for rapido so I can use non volcano nozzles as if they were, let's see if it works well

lightweight still on the way

time to print the rapido mount for EVA3

some samples from z-calibration

nozzle ideally should be 0 as this is nozzle to sexbolt

same place as where it homes

probe also has a lot of variance, this is probe on bed so the issue might be on the klicky switch

I have an extra omron and a few others from an unknown brand, might test them out

[proud marsh]

yes, it’s definitely something odd, since bolt to switch is consistent, means that the magnets binds the probe consistently, but the switch itself has a lot of variation. this is slightly different than a repeatability test, where you probe the switch 100 times consecutively. so it’s possible that the switch gets stuck or something. you can try to clean it and see if there is something on the way (I had a piece of glue once -leftover from some bed adhesion enhancement attempts- )

[formal marsh]

I don't run glue or any other adhesion stuff, every time I tried out of desperation anded up regretting

[proud marsh]

same

[formal marsh]

but that switch is sketchy

[proud marsh]

but somehow I haven’t noticed a tiny buildup of stuff on a side of the switch. cleaning that up improved for a while

[formal marsh]

I'll have a look, since I'm going UHF might go unklicky

[proud marsh]

at least you don’t have complicated switch to deal with, it’s wire-to-bolt dumb connection

[formal marsh]

as long as I can make it work reliably without getting stuck

[pale cloak]

Is auto-z probing the switch body on the switch itself?

[proud marsh]

body, there is a note that if you want trouble and misery you can use probing on the switch 😅

why @pale cloak and I are red and @formal marsh name is only yellow 🤔

maybe it’s gold

[pale cloak]

He has a "Contributor" role now @proud marsh

[proud marsh]

hooooo 🫢

[formal marsh]

it's gold 😛

because I'm "special"

[formal marsh]

lightweight gantry arrives today

[formal marsh]

and it's here

damn it's fucking light

[gleaming whale]

how light?

[formal marsh]

need to weight it

fysetc says 53g

I'll weight it and the extrusion as well

[solar stratus]

its pretty close to the weight fusion 360 said it would be, and what is listed

like within 1-3 grams if I recall correctly?

[formal marsh]

I don't mind it it's off, I was just surprised it's so light

[gleaming whale]

it should be stiff too as its keeping the box design and the diagnal support spreads load well

[formal marsh]

stiff it is

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale 52g

on my kitchen scale that is not that perfect

[formal marsh]

159 with the 2020 extrusion

107g less

[formal marsh]

belts and shaper later

also 18e to get the rail cut and milled

should have bought a new one 😭

also need to put new pom nuts

[formal marsh]

a little off but I'm happy with them

X

Y

[pale cloak]

wow, those results are much better than I'm getting, lol

[formal marsh]

I think one of those peaks is my kid screaming

lightweight seems to ressonate a lot less

[gleaming whale]

Your Y is reading Z, you might need to define Z as Y to get proper results

[ornate flame]

Wait

This is a thing?

[formal marsh]

finding out now

[formal marsh]

I'll post the outcome afterwards

right now my biggest issue that remains is filament path

what worked fine in the past doesnt now

for some reason

[ornate flame]

How so?

[formal marsh]

filament seems to get stuck

[gleaming whale]

I saw you can redefine them to be correct. It’s in the input shaper documentation about chip placement.

[formal marsh]

might add new ingress

[ornate flame]

But does it care for that?

or does it just add up X-Y-Z?

[formal marsh]

here they are with corected axes

note this is from an accelerometer on the toolboard

doesn't seem like it cares

makes it easier to read

[tired pike]

Looks very nice...🤤

[formal marsh]

got it for the looks

[gleaming whale]

You can actually use the input shaper chip while you print too, but needs to be connected to a pc or something and is not really any benefit. My brother thought it had to be on all the time when he was doing his.

[pale cloak]

It just adds the resonance from all three axes. The klipper docs are explicit that the specific mapping of axes does not matter, as long as they are aligned with the direction of motion.

[pale cloak]

From the Klipper docs it looks like the axes mapping does not matter.

[gleaming whale]

I interpreted that as you don’t need to line it up as you can swap the axis in config

[pale cloak]

Yup yup

[gleaming whale]

Lol I’m no expert

[formal marsh]

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking (this might take a while)
Finish TR (can't put too many details but can share pictures of the thing after its built)
Print at least 2 ERCP for the TR
Change to Rapido, also UHF
Upgrade to 1.1.6 and change colour ✅
Swap to EVA3 ✅
Replace gantry to lightweight ✅
Reprint top X axis joints because I will no longer need the cut ones ✅
Print a spare Sherpa mini (new printed and installed) ✅

Mostly so I can keep track of what I want to do next

[formal marsh]

so... I had a test print before the new gantry and lost it

now I can't compare

but IIRC there seems to be a little less ghosting

next step print rapido mount, because both of my crazy need maintenance

also bowden on sherpa is too loose need to find a proper way to make it tighter

[pale cloak]

Agreed. I'll look for a version with a coupler

So there is a version with a coupler, but from a prior release.

[formal marsh]

also I might have killed a mosfet

fuck me

YES ITS DEAD!

[pale cloak]

😦

Is it fan0 that blew? That doesn't look healthy above the connector.

[formal marsh]

yep it's fan0

[formal marsh]

also need to remove filament sensor from toolhead

improper tip shaping gets filament stuck in there

I really need a cutter

[pale cloak]

I was reading about cutters yesterday, so your timing is interesting. I'll keep poking around to find something, but so far nothing's turned up.

[formal marsh]

I have also asked around in the RR EVA channels

I don't think there is

maybe something that cuts by moving to the left

[pale cloak]

How is the cutter supposed to dispose of the tip, btw?

Extrude it?

[formal marsh]

yes

[pale cloak]

Mrm. All I can do is keep my eyes open.

[formal marsh]

I'll sleep on it

[formal marsh]

ran a little speed test

TEST_SPEED SPEED=750 ITERATIONS=1 ACCEL=40000 BOUND=20

does 40 easily

I'll be setting lower

just for extra safety

[brave urchin]

ya EVA FILAMENT CUTTER PLEASE. 🥺

[formal marsh]

it's either that or mantis

[brave urchin]

looking at micro mantis or SB. they both have cutters

SB is heavy

[formal marsh]

chonky

[brave urchin]

i dont know what chonky means lol

[formal marsh]

bulky

big

large

[pale cloak]

"chonky" is a cute version of "chunky"

[brave urchin]

ah

[pale cloak]

originally used to describe fat cats

which I find both hilarious and delightful

[formal marsh]

speaking of fat cats you have one of those don't you

[pale cloak]

oh indeed, one of mine is quite a hefty boi.

he was full grown and fat and happy when we adopted him, and he's refused to change his ways

[formal marsh]

my black one might become like that too

[pale cloak]

they're very baby-like if you can train them to let you pick them up. very cute.

and less likely to make a mess on you

[formal marsh]

this one does not allow me to

he likes to bite

a lot

[pale cloak]

My big boy does, too, but my mom worked him into being more gentle. He is technically her cat.

[formal marsh]

now I'm just waiting for it to cool down to get the rapido in place

[proud marsh]

sh*t! I had a random spare waiting for a thr replacement, and now I still haven’t placed the thr on… if you need a quick replacement I can give you mine

I even have the faulty one if you want/can transplant the mosfet

[formal marsh]

ohh I would gladly take the dead one

also FUCK ME rapido heats fucking fast

[proud marsh]

told you!!

[proud marsh]

I’m in the middle of nowhere until next week. I’ll send you the corpse when I arrive home.
it actually still works, I think it’s just the screw terminal that’s gone, but maybe also@other stuff… the chip was heating too much, the terminal could have been the cause, or a side damage

[formal marsh]

might replace the terminal

this is why I love auto z

replace hotend

done

only needs pid tune

[proud marsh]

if you find the right pitch, I bought one, 3.81 pitch, but it was a hair too big

[formal marsh]

I know a guy who might be able to find it

[solar stratus]

fast rapido is the point of rapido

it is rapid heating

from cold to 260 by the time to walk over to the printer

[proud marsh]

every time I mount the nf crazy (twice so far) I regret how painfully slow it’s the heatup process

only the bambu clone is as fast as the rapido

[solar stratus]

though now that I finally have a load/unload macro, poorly written one... the rapido isnt fast enough for me

I used to manually load and unload... so by the time I walked to the printer it was up to temp

[formal marsh]

wrote one a long time ago

basic but does the job

now I need new tip shaper one

need to check latest TR one

[solar stratus]

I should make it with heat and wait temp commands

but then I would want variables for material loaded

I dont need to be loading pla at 260

and to impatiantto load abs at 235

[proud marsh]

it’s working ok with the rapido, but it’s based on PrusaSlicer one, so maybe you can use it from the slicer directly

[formal marsh]

mine accepts T as an argument

for temperature

but needs improvements as well

[proud marsh]

my macro loads at printing temperature

[formal marsh]

I'm getting timeouts and was wondering why (host computer updating)

[solar stratus]

I should just make dedicated abs/pla loading buttons

[proud marsh]

I am not sure what I did, but the bulk of it is from the tradrack gcode

[solar stratus]

though I have only ever printed abs, asa, and pc in my merc

[proud marsh]

do you have a multi material unit on the merc?

[solar stratus]

nope

[proud marsh]

how can you automatically load and unload, just outside the extruder gear than, right?

[solar stratus]

Well only unload

And feed up to extruder by hand

Press macro button to load

[formal marsh]

orbiter sensor has a button for that

@proud marsh did you have to tune the shaper macro from the TR?

it changed a lot since I last saw it

[proud marsh]

no, just copied the parameters for the rapido I found on a -smilingly equivalent- macro from the ercf

[formal marsh]

ah good need to find those

[proud marsh]

I might find it for you…

[formal marsh]

today? or in a few days

[proud marsh]

https://github.com/moggieuk/ERCF-Software-V3/blob/330126c413175b4c1b610036e124d911f782ec75/ercf_software.cfg#L130

I can’t lookup now what is what in the macro, but it should be easy to sort out

[formal marsh]

I can find it

[proud marsh]

there was actually a post from ryan, with drawings on the rapido, about it, in the tr beta channel. you can look it up

[formal marsh]

Ill search I must have messed up something

tips still look like shit

[proud marsh]

from ryan post

[formal marsh]

could be temperature

[proud marsh]

1 = extruder_load_length
2 = hotend_load_length
3 = toolhead_unload_length

[formal marsh]

could be that I disabled SS stuff

retrying

[proud marsh]

I disabled ss stuff

forgot about that

[formal marsh]

still hairy

ASA btw

[proud marsh]

I use 265C

[formal marsh]

this was 245, 255 was worse

[proud marsh]

might be that, or just different asa brand, mine also has a few mm hair at times

[formal marsh]

this is polymaker

[proud marsh]

but it’s not too bad, the important is not to have bulging parts on the tip

hairs might be annoying but on asa/abs especially they will just bend instead of breaking around… pla might give issues

how the eva3 filament sensor is working?

[formal marsh]

It's not plugged in yet

just in place 😅

need to crimp wires

[gleaming whale]

How is your belted hydra going? I had just stumbled upon a belted hydra with what looks like K3 motor mounts for the belts.

[formal marsh]

not going, and not sure if I will start

got too much stuff to print now and want to wrap up my todo list

including the TR and buffers

[proud marsh]

you can’t do anything like that with an electronic enclosure under the printer, right?

[gleaming whale]

Depends how big your printer is I guess? But would make the Omnibox show its strength

[pale cloak]

The first one I built sat under the Z axis on the printer I was working on. I just cut out about 150mm of Z travel at the bottom. 😆

[gleaming whale]

archetype uses a 2510 lol they recommend a delta, so it will be $$$

[formal marsh]

that's some curling

[pale cloak]

looks like leaf petals

ouch

[formal marsh]

it's a pumpkin

printing enclosed with fan and SCS at 70

@pale cloak just as a double check correct for rapido UHF is this https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/STL/bottom/klicky_bottom_uhf.stl

[pale cloak]

I believe so, but you are in uncharted waters ATM.

I have not seen it in CAD, IOW

[formal marsh]

will print anyway then

it's a shame that duct is "harder" to swap

at least compared to rapido HF/UHF swap

[pale cloak]

without Klicky it's easier, IMO. Remove rear fan, remove two screws, and it falls out.

[formal marsh]

survived

[formal marsh]

thinking how I can make an easily adjustable klicky dock for easy HF UHF swap

same with brus

[proud marsh]

the uhf klicky twins horn from turtle has the same docking height as the standard version

maybe it can be adjusted for eva3 🤔

[formal marsh]

not in the mood to adjust anything

[gleaming whale]

https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/Maverick

You want to swap between 2 different probes too?

[formal marsh]

not needed

that one is overkill

but I like it

[gleaming whale]

Yea I think I need it for my toolhead adventure I’m about to start

[formal marsh]

my brush already mounts under, might just make a full piece for each height

[pale cloak]

what about marking with a sharpie the dock height for HF and UHF?

[gleaming whale]

you could add your most hated thing to make it adjust itself

[pale cloak]

How do wire nuts enter into this? 😛

[gleaming whale]

Nah servo lol

[pale cloak]

I'm messing with flow. He hates wire nuts. HATES them. It's a thing. I didn't tell you this, though. Nooope. not me.

[gleaming whale]

he hates servos too lol wont even put it on the frame stationary

lol i jsut had to look up wire nuts

[pale cloak]

I doubt anyone but the U.S. still uses them. They are awful.

[gleaming whale]

can get ones made here here but never seen them in the wild

most diy people just twist and tape here, so there is lots of signs saying "DIY can be illegal"

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale it's not that I hate servos, I just don't want to spend more money on another servo and wire for it, on the toolhead though it's because it adds weight too

as for wire nuts I love to hate them, and even more when I aee DIY where people just twist wires, my brain goes "fire!"

[gleaming whale]

i was thinking of a unklicky style bltouch with a remote servo on the frame using similar to a bicycle brake line to deply it

[formal marsh]

that's a bowden cable

[gleaming whale]

lol onyl wires i twist and tape are speakers in a house that i am not finalised

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale that's fine, usually there's not enough sustained current to burn (depends on sound system)

[gleaming whale]

unamped speakers lol

[formal marsh]

also @pale cloak I hate a lot of stuff, including people 🤣

[gleaming whale]

yea bowden cable is really big, road bike people are more insane about saving mg than printer people

[gleaming whale]

I hate people too! lol

[formal marsh]

oh dear

[pale cloak]

Oh, that's worrisome.

[formal marsh]

new brush piece, in theory should rotate less and adjusts for crazy rapido UF/UHF

and i think I'll recycle the extrusion side for klicky

can't believe I lost the UHF duct again

[tired pike]

Have you printed with the rapido much?

[formal marsh]

a little I'm loving it

[tired pike]

Good!

[formal marsh]

ir was a good purchase

getting ready to move to UHF

[proud marsh]

is it better than the crazy? I preferred the rapido, but I have a wonky nf crazy setup, so I am not sure it’s soo much better for everyone

[formal marsh]

better is questionable and open for debate I'd say

the crazy with the nozzle adapter for higher flow might make no difference but both crazies need maintenance

[proud marsh]

the print quality was more or less the same, but the prep is so much easier with the rapido

[formal marsh]

also ❤️ rapido heating speed

[pale cloak]

Oooh, can you let me know if that works? my brush moves around a bit

[formal marsh]

yes, current setup is similar but wobbles a little

guess I'll print the new klicky dock and uhf brush

[formal marsh]

UHF duct printing 🥳

[gleaming whale]

still on eva 3?

[formal marsh]

yes

might stay there for a while

[pale cloak]

uh oh, toolhead wars!

[formal marsh]

annd second time it warps

might need to reduce fan for the rapido

[pale cloak]

brim, perhaps?

that piece likes lifting a lot

[formal marsh]

more warp

aaaah I don't want to

I was going to say the other printed fine but it was not me

@tired pike how the fuck did you print that without warping

[pale cloak]

there's not a lot of contact area with the build plate for that part, so it curls readily. particularly with the heat rising inside the duct.

[formal marsh]

😭😭

[tired pike]

The fan duct?

Not always prints well

Heat soak very well the chamber

A little more squish in build plate

[formal marsh]

yeah I have a second one you did (first actually that warped more)

textured PEI?

[tired pike]

Yes Pei

Z offset it's not the same as pla

[formal marsh]

chamber was soaked to 40C

[tired pike]

Try playing with that just the enough to not have elephant foot

[formal marsh]

I really want to get this without brim (personal pride)

thanks

I'll give it a go

[tired pike]

What's the filament?

Build plate very clean and maybe some 3dlac

[formal marsh]

Polymaker ASA

[tired pike]

Still haven't tried polymaker

[formal marsh]

it's holding

[formal marsh]

I think the camera does not like the heat

[formal marsh]

AND IT PRINTED, a little elephant foot but I'm willing to accept it

[formal marsh]

also new brush piece also printed nicely, need to mount it

[tired pike]

Nice!

now just adjust a little offset to not have elephant foot

and you can save it on prusa slicer to that filament only

[formal marsh]

if for the type I can just adjust on my start gcode

[formal marsh]

damn need to get the brush mounted and new duct assembled

[formal marsh]

who's insane has klipper moonraker etc in docker containers and has just setup update manager for the other components

[vestal hound]

What do you use to install klipper?kiauh?

[plucky plume]

Yes, Kiauh is a good option.

[formal marsh]

mine is just docker containers but I do not recommend it unless your Linux and docker knowledge is good

[formal marsh]

finally setting up a GIT repo with my config, still private as I need to make sure I'm not exposing sensitive info

[formal marsh]

another item for my list, pin aliases

[formal marsh]

pin aliases are almost done

[tired pike]

What is that?? 😅😅

[formal marsh]

you assign names for the board pins, when configuring instead of saying gpio1 you say hotend_thermistor

[formal marsh]

finally some updates new klicky dock being printed

yep this weird thing

[formal marsh]

17.3mm

filament sensor above the sherpa because I'm stubborn

[proud marsh]

does it takes a collet/ECAS?

maybe a logo on the front 😛?

[formal marsh]

takes

test print coming out

this is not final

[proud marsh]

of course, I can also test it, I already have a switch wired up there, I only need to move it in the mount

[formal marsh]

so switch hole is too big, the "legs" to attach are wayyy too thin

filament hole is too thin

aaand requires the version without arm it hits the screw

heh design is not properly parametric

I'm slowly messing it up 😭

might need to design it from scratch

[proud marsh]

maybe you can have a look at the “orbiter sensor sherpa mod” mount

[formal marsh]

the issue here is the thickness for mounting

I didn't want to use the back because of the motor and standoffs for the toolboard

[formal marsh]

now with logo

[gleaming whale]

Can never have enough logos!

[formal marsh]

z is floating again

[tired pike]

Have you found why?

Or have any clue?

[formal marsh]

nope, seems like the switch offset for klicky floats

now is at .5

started with .40 or so, went to .37 .42 now .50

I think I'll replace it with unklicky

[proud marsh]

I think I also had that issue, with unklicky the probe seems more robust on that front: the switch offset is constrained by an m3 bolt, tightened on the probe. the mechanism basically works the other way around compared to a microswitch, which need to be triggered. unklicky is constantly triggered, the minimum movement makes it go off

[formal marsh]

klicky is wired NC as well

[proud marsh]

yes, but mechanically you still need to press a button

[formal marsh]

yes, the good thing about unklicky is that the force to trigger does not depend on a spring

[proud marsh]

with unklicky you… un-click 😅

[formal marsh]

omron is something like this unklicky a screw touches an HSI

repelled by magnets

[proud marsh]

exactly, but on a magnet repulsion. but it’s advantage, in my opinion, is that any minimum offset, the probe will open

[formal marsh]

until magnets become non magnetic there's always force and distnce is constant

to be clear I agree with you

[proud marsh]

no come on!! let’s argue a bit more, I fell so low on the bot ranking!!

[formal marsh]

we can still chat

about my fail of sensor that the bearing does not fit yet

[proud marsh]

help it with a 4mm drill bit?

[formal marsh]

have a wall in front

need to widen it

[proud marsh]

also the ball need to be relatively free to move, but still pressed between the filament path and the switch, it’s really a challenge to design, I guess

[formal marsh]

not too hard really

need to print an ASA test

this can be a PETG issue

[gleaming whale]

The heatsert unklicky is the best one I have had so far! Can not recommend enough going for that over the normal one. The wire can have a little bit of give where as the heatsert never moves.

[plucky plume]

Linky?

[gleaming whale]

https://github.com/majarspeed/Unklicky/tree/main/Unklicky_Probes/BFP-HS

It uses 6x3 magnets in the pin so makes it easier to source parts as that’s the same as the klicky connection.

[proud marsh]

I also moved to use from a 6mm to a 8mm m3 to secure the wire, this gives very little play to the pin. I was afraid that this wouldn’t work, but it works even better, the pins barely move, but it’s enough to open the circuit

[formal marsh]

might be the final version

[solar stratus]

Your z is backwards

[formal marsh]

true I'm dumb

did so many flips

printing another still without logo though

finding a good orientation to print this is a PITA

[solar stratus]

The top down

[formal marsh]

these break, need to try making them thicker

[solar stratus]

I made a printed mount for the Fysetc sherpa sensor... gave up on it due to how fragile it had to be

[formal marsh]

printing fine so far, slight warp 😭

[formal marsh]

I see what you mean

[solar stratus]

Probably better off building it into the sherpa housing

[formal marsh]

I know, at this point it's more stubbornness than anything else

trying to get that feeling of "I DID IT!"

[formal marsh]

time to test it

no excuses to not finish the TR now

[formal marsh]

also put the nrw brush and klicky dock along with an unklicky

unklicky clears the current brush, woth UHF might not

[formal marsh]

probe accuracy results: maximum 15.457500, minimum 15.415000, range 0.042500, average 15.453425, median 15.455000, standard deviation 0.006161

unklicky

it's a rather large range

[formal marsh]

probe accuracy results: maximum -0.001701, minimum -0.009201, range 0.007500, average -0.006326, median -0.006701, standard deviation 0.001083

omron d2f klicky

way better

@proud marsh how's your unklicky behaving

[formal marsh]

probe accuracy results: maximum 15.162500, minimum 15.150000, range 0.012500, average 15.153900, median 15.152500, standard deviation 0.001814

after 2 reassemblies still higher than omron, and almost twice deviation

[proud marsh]

mine works well, but I have some magnets connectivity issues with my main one now.

[proud marsh]

that’s a very very small range 😛

my unckliky isn’t about 2x or 3x that range

that’s my latest test

probe accuracy results: maximum 8.670625, minimum 8.660000, range 0.010625, average 8.661881, median 8.661250, standard deviation 0.001585

but it’s the best I can get, the spare is not as tight

[formal marsh]

I'll keep it for a while and see

also my mesh got screwed up in the back I think it's related to my bed engravings

[gleaming whale]

Did you do 1000 probes with unklicky to get it settled in?

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale hmmm with all the testing mught be close to 500 at least

I'll run 500 more

[gleaming whale]

Mines the same as 79bass’s but I am running stock motors. I got some new AB motors so can use my motors from there on my Z so can see if this changes anything.

[formal marsh]

probe accuracy results: maximum 15.080000, minimum 15.077500, range 0.002500, average 15.077525, median 15.077500, standard deviation 0.000249

@gleaming whale 500 more did the trick

[proud marsh]

wow, d2f or unklicky?

[formal marsh]

unklicky

[formal marsh]

might need to check probe offset with unklicky

that or something is off due to the bed engravings

[clever zenith]

oh man that mesh is so buttery compared to what I'm dealing with lol

[formal marsh]

and it still sucks

[gleaming whale]

I would up your probe count if you really want to track it down. But then it gets close to focusing on just chasing numbers. Move the top slider down to what you would actually use of the bed still being there and hat gives you a more realistic range. With adaptive bed mesh before a print on the stock e5+ bed I can get a variance of 0.03 printing on a 200x200 section but the edges where I’m not printing make it say it’s a 0.1 variance.

TLDR - that’s a good mesh given all the variables in the real world.

[formal marsh]

what bothers me is that it used to be better

[proud marsh]

try to mesh without the pei, if it’s a build plate issue, there is nothing you can do other than change it

[formal marsh]

I suspect it's the magnet sticker

[solar stratus]

some pei sheets I mesh I get 0.05 to 0.07 while others are around 0.1

[formal marsh]

I'll find out when the new sheets arrive

[formal marsh]

tiny splitter to test dual 5015

UPDATE

List will finally stop growing

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking (this will take a while)
Finish TR (hopefully fast)
Print at least 2 ERCP for the TR (after TR is running)
Change to Rapido, also UHF 🕐 (Rapido is there UHF not)
Printed new brush and klicky dock for UHF ✅
Test Owl dual 5015 for E34M1 ✅ (they hit towers but I never move there)
Print SUAFT/something else with HEPA

[tired pike]

I will probably need a few of those

[formal marsh]

that many fans?

[formal marsh]

new EVA back in along with top

now I have too much X travel

also owl eyes will hit with my current brush position

but other than that looks damn good

[formal marsh]

also FUCK UPS

[pale cloak]

tossing the box over the wall again?

[formal marsh]

I wish

[formal marsh]

said I was not at home, dropped at pickup

they were not here

I got cameras 😁

[pale cloak]

that suuuucks, except for the cameras 🙂

[formal marsh]

anyway, new endstops printing

then a round of X and Y calibration

[formal marsh]

might move the bed forward 10mm

how? move the holes on my voron bed adapters

something I would not be able to do with a proper bed 😁

problem, new klicky and brush supports

[formal marsh]

finally moved my ass and adjusted my X and Y

needed to move the brush closer to center

now it touches the bed

so homing z fucks up

need to print one 2mm shorter

[clever zenith]

you're on hydra right? how'd you mount your brush?

[formal marsh]

on the frame in the back

side is easier but I don't have space (scs)

[clever zenith]

ahhh okay

[formal marsh]

I designed the piece can share step if you want

but it's made for a silicone brush

[clever zenith]

i have all the stuff sitting under the printer i just haven't found a mount point im happy with

sure i'll check it out!

[formal marsh]

nex time im on computer

[formal marsh]

printed new brush mount today along with the chain thingy to hold it

[formal marsh]

so chain held in place hits the brush when raising the bed

might need to get non glued chain ends

@digital harbor https://www.printables.com/model/436868-igus-e2i-10-10-018-0-chain-ends/files these fit the hydra chain?

[digital harbor]

These are meant for to use IGUS E2i-10-10-018-0 chain (without original end links, just the chain links) with three hole mounts. So if you want to connect the IGUS with appropriate hydra parts with three holes as mount points, then yes that is the intended use. And I did make (and use) them for this use case.

This mod is also listed in community mods https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1090699786476343356 where I have the photo of my hydra installment.

[formal marsh]

Thank you, I missed it on the community section

[formal marsh]

chain no longer hits brush

[digital harbor]

That IGUS chain has very small bending radius (18mm) so you will be likely constrained by the wiring inside. That bending radius is why I did chosen it for mine. Also Voron guys are using it too so easy to source.

[formal marsh]

wiring is not limiting even though it's 2.5mm² (yes overkill)

the bending on the top was, made it 2links shorter too

[digital harbor]

Well in my case wiring defines larger bend radius than chain itself. More restrictive, just won't bend that much.

[formal marsh]

planning first MMU print

[formal marsh]

TR assisted extrusion actually nice, because the path from tr to enclosure ingress is tight sometimes the extruder alone does not pull, with both it's damn perfect

[formal marsh]

I really need to change filament ingress

[formal marsh]

Also filament sensor got bork when unloading filament,.might be TR bug

[gleaming whale]

You’re running a Sherpa mini yea?

[formal marsh]

yup

and a sensor right above that I designed

[gleaming whale]

https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods/tree/main/Extruders/Sherpa_Mini/Extruder_Mods/Gryp2-Housing_Core_with_filament_sensor

I saw this, thought of you lol

[pale cloak]

huh...I wonder how well that works

[gleaming whale]

Works off the arm, filament pushes the arm off the switch

Oh well lol

[pale cloak]

yeah, I'm not seeing a reason why it won't...cool!

[gleaming whale]

I read it as “how the hell that works”

[pale cloak]

MAGIC

[formal marsh]

I know about it I dont like it

https://www.printables.com/model/628232-sherpa-mini-filament-sensor so I made this

[formal marsh]

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking (this will take a while)
Finish TR ✅
Install Mellow Easy BRD on TR (ordered)
Print at least 2 ERCP for the TR/rewinders need to choose
Change to Rapido, also UHF ✅
Print SUAFT/something else with HEPA

[formal marsh]

Y

X

X is a little noisy

I need to adjust all the wiring around and tighten everything

[formal marsh]

also UHF is in

[tired pike]

Sweet!

let it Brrr!

[formal marsh]

ohh it goes

[gleaming whale]

I can’t find it but where you talking to someone about smaller hydra arms for the 180mm merc you want to make?

[formal marsh]

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1174002093682597990

I don't need

[formal marsh]

turns out I did the frame too small (wrong measurements)

[formal marsh]

TR board arrives today

[formal marsh]

new personal record 8:23

need to try with ABS

[proud marsh]

daaamn 😝, post it might be a merc record

[formal marsh]

once I record it

I also want to make it faster, has delays on layer change

[proud marsh]

My 11 minutes pla benchy had big holes on the front

might be the single 5015 fan cooling

and nothing else

[formal marsh]

this was dual5015 and SCS

need to make a speedbenchy mode

a macro to enable SCS no timelapses etc

[pale yoke]

Why not go with ABS, less cooling needed 😉

[formal marsh]

that's the plan but I wanted to see the results on PLA

[pale yoke]

Fair enough! Cool build by the way, love the lightweight X Gantry

[formal marsh]

thanks

[formal marsh]

attempted an ABS benchy, it's too much cooling

[pale yoke]

😂 the struggles from going from PLA speed printing to ABS.
Couldn't you turn down the fans?

[formal marsh]

I could but I didn't

the issue was that it came off the bed and was not due to warping

nozzle pushed print

[pale yoke]

Ah crap

[formal marsh]

so I need the ABS to be a little less cooled

right at the top 😭

[pale yoke]

Hate when that happens, at least you're doing a speed benchy and not a 5+ hour print

[formal marsh]

true

I'll do a second try later

at least I'm not using Esun ABS+

[pale yoke]

I use it for non critical stuff, I like its matt finish on the black abs+ fillament

[formal marsh]

heh same but I hate printing it, the smell

[formal marsh]

YES UNDER 7MIN

[formal marsh]

6:59

[pale yoke]

That's very fast! Nice. Got any pictures of the result? ☺️

[formal marsh]

https://youtu.be/63c07Ocw1nc in the end, can share photos later

it's far from perfect but for the speed it was done I'm happy with it

[tired pike]

👏👏👏

Very good

That printer goes brrrr

[pale yoke]

Impressive!

[formal marsh]

drivers are here!

time to print a new onnibox tray, rewire the TR and swap board

[formal marsh]

not bad eh?

[tired pike]

"not bad"?😂

you are going to tune my Merc..

[formal marsh]

hahaha

[proud marsh]

which bed have you sourced?

[proud marsh]

considering you have a trident bed adapted with some abs printed spacers, I’d say.. amazing!! maybe you can share the adapters as a mod 😛?

250 voron bed might be more readily available

[formal marsh]

I was weary of doing it, but considering the ABS ones are working fine and handling 100C fine will do

[proud marsh]

that’s a fair disclaimer

[tired pike]

I have order funssor bed kit

[formal marsh]

ewwww

[tired pike]

😂 ahah I know your opinion

Wish me luck 🤞

The price spoke higher 😅

[formal marsh]

good point

let us know how it goes

[formal marsh]

well replacing picos with skrat is proving painful

cant flash with dfu util from docker 😭 starts but fails

[formal marsh]

ok I'm stupid, was flashing can not can bridge

it's detected

now define all damn board pins (and they're a lot)

[formal marsh]

aliases done (I hope) and config adjusted, now need 10min to test

[formal marsh]

aand magic smoke on the toolboard

[tired pike]

Damn..

[formal marsh]

24v on the can data lines

[tired pike]

and a good night sleep?😂

[pale yoke]

oh crap, yeah they don't like that. You're making me nervous, going to do a CAN setup on my build as well.

[pale yoke]

Also to add to this, you could always get some MJF Nylon printed spacers if you can't print Nylon yourself. There are some printing services that do it for quite cheap like JLC3DP. It can handle up to 175c.

[formal marsh]

I had no sleep that's why I was powering on thr printer at 4am

no sleep as I'm didn't feel sleepy yet

[formal marsh]

first version was nylon, but screws glue screwed up

[formal marsh]

also CAN is easy, the hard part is not confusing the fan port with the CAN port on the board
skrat is a nice board but having CAN between 2 fan ports is not very smart

[formal marsh]

so I only killed the CAN transceiver USB works

that will work until I get a replacement

[pale yoke]

Oh thats actually really good, seems the board is protected well then

[formal marsh]

now I also get why the jumpers for the 4pin fans are by default on 5v...

I would still have a toolboard If I didn't change them 🤦

anyway new one should arrive within 1 week until then USB it is

I can continue to setup the easy brd for the tradrack

[proud marsh]

tomorrow I’ll mail you my broken one so you can Frankenstein a functional one, maybe. are you getting another THR as replacement?

my old one should only have the header borked, so it might be an easy swap

[formal marsh]

yep ordered one yesterday

at this point I would rather have too many than too few

hey first component for SmolZG

[proud marsh]

so you won’t use any of the picos you have around for the smol?