#cases-psu-and-cooling
1 messages · Page 31 of 1
Wait
You said h500
And td500
Nvm
@light wyvern
I have this case myself
I can send some pics if you want
Yes please
Its not the most white, but
Looks nice does it give good airflow
That’s awesome
Can you send me some pics of it with ur setup
A lot of cable management room
looks nice
Yeah gimme a sec
SEND PICS
Bottom kinda comes off
why are you trying to take the top off
No not the top
so can install rgb
send a better pic then cause those are bad pics lol
The side with nothing
and picture of the side panel itself angled towards the top
from that orientation, you should be able to just slide it >>>
Damn it
pull the little handle lip
I think I broke it
how
I pulled off the bottom
Wait no
and take it off
I didnt
Got it
good 🙂
Love how they left rubber grommets but cable managed all of their wires over them lol
eh thats not that abnormal
Its not, just silly
wait thats a new case right
Yes
yeah thats normal. theyre just keepign the wires from being thrown everywherre in shipping
they wouldn't put the wires through the gromits cause diff mobos have diff slots in diff places
you're supposed to take em out and cablemanange where you need em at lol
ok lol
I wish
cause ive had mobos that have the front IO on the side instead of bottom
and sata ports on the bottom instead of side
etc etc
Yeah
what case is that btw
P400A
ah. nice 🙂
Yep
Hey,I bought the P400A digital and was wondering what fans are inside? It doesnt say on the product page
Wondering if anyone knows
off newegg?
if so it say it the specs.
Fan Options
Front: 3 x 120mm (2 x 120mm black fan included) or 2 x 140mm fan
@flat eagle I think they want model number to buy more of em
I found it for them before but I'm too lazy to check the product website rn
Its missing a wire what do I do
Top left
i'm using a prebuilt, do you think there's any way for me to control the rgb in the case cooling, or is it probably wired into the case? cyberpowerpc one, so it's all their stuff
@drifting sonnet its most likely connected to the front io
If theres any buttons you don't understand press it and it might change it
i know there's a button i just wonder if i can do my own thing
how do you shop for the right psu to fit in your case?
What case?
in a Lenovo H50 case
micro atx board
and I'm pretty sure the case is matx as well
ok I guess a good start is to look up the shady psu that's in it already
so I think this is it 🤣
I don't know what info is relevant in matching it with my case
is it just...micro atx case, micro atx psu?
no
that doesnt (on the surface of things) look like a atx psu
hm, never mind
it actually looks like it IS a ATX psu
meaning, most other psu's that you see us talk about here should fit in that case
and that is a good thing @vocal tree
a while ago, I measured it and compared it to the dimensions of various psu's on Amazon, just looking for one that was the same width and height, and at the time I found it difficult to find any
its not the total measurement that is actually important
its the part the screws into the case
the "depth" of the unit can vary quite a bit :)
the other two measurements (because they have to fit the screwholes in the ATX case standard) should be very similar however
yeah
https://www.pchub.com/fsp-group-inc-fsp280-40pa-server-power-supply-280w-fsp280-40pa-36200172-0b56076-54y8859-p158999 <- does that look familiar @vocal tree ?
yeah that ought to be it xd
look at the first picture, see the 4 screw holes and the pattern they form?
the "bumped" square-ish shape?
___X X
X X
kinda looks like that?
yep :)
just ignore the _ discord formats away spaces :)
https://microless.com/cdn/products/4a03f7af43a7cb932903b89abc047a7b-hi.jpg <- the pattern look familiar?
@vocal tree
yup
that is the cx (2017) that we recommend all the time
ah
does that answer your general question about psu?
I think so
ok :)
yeah haha
ask if you have more questions :)
how would I approach estimating total system wattage?
in general, just list things here and we can over it with you
or buy a 550 and dont worry about it
hehe
yeah I might just go with 550
I don't think this computer goes over 250 atm
I'll be mindful of that :)
I was looking at the cx you linked, are these all cx (2017)?
just asking because of the silly product title
the black/grey one yes
ok, thanks for the help
you are very welcome @vocal tree
one thing I didn't consider, my board has a 14 pin board power plug, and 4 pin CPU
I remember seeing psu cables that have detachable additions for boards with 24 pin, 8 pin or such
darn xd
because that 14pin is a custom connector that your system manufacturer has cooked up in some mad lab somewhere
regular atx connector is 20(+4)pin
I don't imagine it would be practical to get a 20 or 24 pin to 14 pin adapter, would it?
doubt it
I suppose I could build a new computer if that's what it comes down to 😅
this would be an okay computer to give to my mom
she's stuck with a Dell Inspiron 15 7548 laptop I think
it has a 2c4t 5th gen i7, 8gb of 1600mhz ddr3, and a hard drive
@tender root actually wasn't 14 pin just some old dumb standard?
I hear about it, rarely tho
you are thinking AT @lofty pewter
yes, but it would not be the first time that it was custom wired on the connector
welcome to the wonders of OEM machines :D
Is Lancool 2 a good case? Hardware Canucks and Jay say it's the best but Steve from GN tested it and had bad temps
Whats the best psu out of those? Sorry kind of a werid format but need help lol
RMi should be the best. @raven zenith
Hey, so at my local store these power supplies from a company called "powerspec" are on sale. Can I trust this company or should I still go with the previous recommendation of a corsair cx?
You can’t trust all PSUs of a particular company
Also, I’ve never heard of PowerSpec so I would go with CX 2017 since I’m sure it’s a safe choice
OK, thanks for that
No worries 😉
Hmm, it's always price or quality with these things. Even budget psus run you over $60
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx550-550w/p/N82E16817139202?&quicklink=true
Is this part of that cx "2017" lineup?
Cool, I can just get the $20 rebate that's applicable to that psu
Also my dad (he's building a pc too) sent me a link to a different psu. Seems a bit too cheap for a 500w
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Certified-Continuous-cooling-PS-SPD-0500NPCWUS-W/dp/B014W3EM2W
Thermaltake Smart is bad, get CX instead 🙂
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list-40/ This tier list could help you with your choice(s)
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 9.2 welcome to the brand new PSU Tier List! Created and maintained by @Princess Luna, @DatTestBench, @Stefan Payne, @GreatMasterAden, @PSUGuru, @Juular and @LukeSavenije Last Update: 14-02-2020 Tiering of various units is opinion based off reputable sour...
It’s pretty accurate, just double check in #cases-psu-and-cooling or #building-and-recc-chat when you make your decision
No worries, good luck !
Guys, where do you plug in the fans on the motherboard?
Burned one of my fans. Help.
Thoughts on the snowblind case?
Already installed the radiator with 3 fans. Got 3 extra radiator fans, so I thought I could add more fans on the bottom.
ah
Tried it. RGP working bot fan not spinning.
Guess I'll take it apart later, Thank you.
Anyone have any experience with the snowblind case
I'd suggest making your own. The case is quite overpriced
3d print your own case
I've considered trying to 3D print a case but I can't find a good ATX case model. Are there any online?
3D printing a case is a bad idea cause of heat that some parts can generate and also most 3D printing material isnt strong. also a print of that scale would take weeks lol
@lofty pewter is EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750w a good psu?
It's eh. I wouldnt get it
recomendation for 650-750watt?
Personally I'd suggest thermaltake smart 700w for $55 on amazon
I have a used 500w that survived being attempted to run an 1800x and 2 furies in CF @glacial needle
Needless to say that bc it still works I have mad respect for the unit/series
if you don't care on price there's definitely higher end units tho
that does not mean it is a good unit. (that is not a judgement on the unit). Mind, this is a comment on recommending things based on the sample size of 1
It also has all the ratings and reviews. Both technical breakdown its a solid unit, no issues with cooling or power delivery. And anecdotal evidence from hundreds of customers
i have personally never used it. so i would not recommend it
But i will happily admit that i dont recommend stuff i have not used myself
Fair enough
on naeds point, im literally using a psu that is amazing for me, apparently explodes for other people lol
oh, the evga bronze series @glacial needle?
@glacial needle I feel the same way with my mobo.
gigabyte x570 gaming x
eh, if it works and is 80+ rated and has no heat or ripple voltage issues
as long as its not MSI ;P
msi power supply?
no mobo lol
the psu thing is only an issue if you go over the wattage it produces, which is 850, which i will never hit
and/or dont ever have a part that hits one of the corner cases that a given PSU is bad at
that is why i personally really only use the higher end seasonic stuff, because i know how it will perform in all kinds of weird situations, and for me, that is worth the cost and then some
The high end seasonic are amazing. If my my G2 ever fails or I need more than 850W for some reason that is what I will probably get.
aye, "sadly" they also know what they want for them :)
@still blade I wouldnt say that TT Smart is that great. Esp when apparently lacking OTP and UVP by the looks of things. Probably also a sleeve bearing fan too
bad crossloads can very, very, easily cause instability with anything consuming moderate amounts of power as that is usually group regulated stuff right there
basically year 2000 tech
not to mention that TT Smart 80+ tends to blow up significantly more then other PSUs
Just as a note, never go by brand or random Amazon reviews for most things. They have no clue what actually makes up the product they buy. Simply put, TT Smart is pretty trash in comparison to many, many other competitors. Even ones at the same price as it
what website is that?
@lofty pewter you should double check which smart you're looking at bc the current series is the "quiet fan" which has sleeping on all the cables and as the name suggests a fan with better bearings.
Also, what 700w are you finding at $55
I'd really like to know
You still really NEED OTP and UVP though. Any protection missing makes a PSU not really worth buying @still blade
Also a possible bad fan and lacking OTP is a combo that could end up being the death of your system :p
Ok, but you didn't even double check the unit
All I need to know is that TT smart 80+ is tier D on the tier list
Also the one you did link: https://www.hardwaresecrets.com/thermaltake-smart-730-w-power-supply-review/5/
Same old model
Not one of the new ones
If you're going to bash a psu at least do it right
It says its a different platform on the conclusion page lol
From anything below 730w
@still blade There are multiple smart series yes. However they all have extra prefixed/suffixes. Smart M for example. The one with none is the one I was talking about, and the one you also were talking about. If you're talking about a different one you need to specify the actual model name, not just part of it
You sure a PSU model from 2012 is the current one? As the "current" smart sold on Amazon certainly doesn't look like this
Not to mention that unit also has some loose voltage regulations and doesn't do crossload tests
Voltage ripples are pretty damn high on 12v rail
Also that one you linked has a sleeve bearing fan. Basically worse bearing you can get for modern computer fans
Mainly has to do with low lifespan
So, I want to get a new case sub $100. I was looking at the Corsair SPEC 06 case, anyone know much about it?
Whats a cube-form factor or smaller that can fit a full size psu
Trying to swap from a h510 to something a lot smaller
Doesnt have to be 100%
or is a shoebox kinda shape okay?
Yeah, at least a portable size
It can fit a full size psu right? Im using a evga 650w but dont remember the exact model
the main constraint in that case is PSU length
Power supply type
ATX (up to 160 mm in length)
take a look at the pictures on the page, and you will see why that is
but keep in mind, a fair amount of psu's are below that length
it should be listed on the evga page
dont trust the retailers listings
go to the manufacturer page for that :)
i am personally a big fan of the node304 case (sitting beside one now)
nice and simple to build in, solid construction. and i like the design of it
Woops psu is seasonic 🤦🏻♂️ confused it with my psu (its my gfs pc that im working on). Though that doesn't matter; its exactly 160mm in length, would that affect the cables though? Or is the case specs excluding that and has space
@tender root
Seasonic m12ii evo edition 520w
its a 170mm unit according to their own site
Its okay but yeah thats also where i read the 170
Back to the drawing board i suppose
break out a ruler :)
It can be bigger than a shoebox haha
cables etc makes this a bit .. interesting :D
Okie dokie
Yeah, had to move around my cables haha
Since the pc was already built
because the current psu in there is listed as 150mm long
need to figure out how much extra space is there etc
okay
it is as i kinda remembered, the 160 is the absolute hard limit IF you have a GPU that is long enough
in my case, the GPU takes up almost the full length of the case
so my psu HAD to be below 160mm
@mint terrace the machine you are looking at currently, how long is the GPU?
no rush :)
Let me find the exact one i bought
and nothing to be sorry about :)
not happening
Hence why i went the safer route with a cube
in theory, IF you had what is known as a ITX gpu, it would not be a problem with your current PSU
Since well everything fit in the h510, just need something smaller so the gf can carry it to other houses
Yeah, i didnt know how sizing worked
well, lets start from the top. what is the system actually ?
board etc etc?
a pcpart link is fine for me (if you have one)
Its a mini itx. Ill make a pcpartpicker list if that makes it easier
nah nah
Yeah ill brb and make it
no need
you answered in a logical fashion with the detail that i needed
meaning, you are not 100% new to this
I do have to get a smaller cooler though
which makes things way easier
Yeah i never worked with small form factor builds, let alone a mini itx
intel or amd board?
Amd
Problem is i dont have one haha
My friend gave this cpu board and cooler for free
you got a local computer store?
The stock cooler he used in his dads build
you know, one that builds machines?
shame, because those guys are almost willing to give away the stock coolers
because they are just useless for them
well, ofc depends on budget, but it could be a reasonable solution
because the ATX psu ensures you wont be going into one of the actually small cases
so, there is no real need for a special cooler either
you planning on OC'ing at all?
Nope
or just for the silence?
Just for the low profile to fit into smaller cases lol
the LP part of it you dont actually need
And for future builds if she plans on upgrading
well, lets skip to the "hunting" part of this talk
the case itself
because that informs the rest of the choices :)
aye aye
i am going to have a look around and then throw a couple of links in here with mentions, so you can find them tomorrow/whenever
Gotcha. Thanks naed! Time to hit the bed then 💀
enjoy :)
https://www.bitfenix.com/products/chassis/mini-itx/prodigy/ @mint terrace IF you can find it, this is one of the more interesting cases
it fits the parts you have etc etc, i have checked.
do be mindfull that it is the ITX and not the MATX version you find
generally, the conclusion seems to be. Get a different PSU, it will open up more options for cases (IF going small-ish)
So my Rosewill challenger s has 2 areas for 120m fans on the bottom (obviously for the psu) but does anyone know why it’s dual length?
Guyw should i take the corsair spev delta or the raid max neon
both have bad airflow, so neither
my case has 0 airflow and my temps are idle 30 on the cpu and idle 40 on the gpu with fans off, and ive never hit above 70 on either. Furthermore, i have my GPU vertical mounted with about a half centimeter of space from the glass
anyways
@fluid ether i would recommend the corsair spec delta
corsair is a very nice brand
But, do you have your fans blasting at high RPM?
at load?
find that hard to say when looking at what GN says
i can take a video if youd like 🙂
its never gotten to the point where i notice a difference between idle and load
its very quiet
I like my noise normalized perf numbers
Honestly I don't rely on GN for sound readings since realistically there's a lot more noise in my room than just my PC
its helpful but i don't really mind noise much
pretty much any modern fan will be quiet imo
some are louder than others, but most recent name brand ones are quiet
i have 5 corsair ML120 rgb ones in my pc
two of them on the AIO
and 3 fans for my GPU
I just have the two fans that my h510 came with and honestly they're not terrible but they're a little noisy
yeah but also a 1070 isn't gonna stess a case a ton
but i also sit with my pc next to me and they're but exhaust
I mean 40db noise normalized and looking at CPU temps, that is a wide spread from "no airflow" to "actual airflow"
edit: not noise normalized graph here. Me dumb dumb
@outer violet set them to the lowest they can go, mine are pretty quiet at 500-540rpm
Yeah, I really should for idle
mine are near 1000rpm 🤔 but theyre silent
wait
not theyre not
thats my pc being dumb
alright
theyre spinning at about 400rpm right now
37 cpu, 50 gpu
silent
idle temps tell little of what decent airflow is. A good torture test for a while to at least let the air inside the case to soak up the heat is where it is really at
whats a good torture test?
key word, torture
not aboutta torture my own machine
also i dont see the point in torture tests, youre never going to realistically hit those temps

yeah
😄
lots of people build gaming rigs and just play games
not sit there and stare what their temps are.
you want to know worst case scenario
get a 450w with a 3700x and 2080Ti, standard wattage during gaming would be close to 460w which a decent 450w can handle due to good overload perf
despite max wattage that can be pulled is 565w
decent 450w wont
i need a new psu so badly lol
cx550 really be out here though
its been through a lot with me
2012 or 2017 cx?
i lied its actually just a cx500 lmao
i wonder what it would be if i cranked it up to max performance 
:0 look how fast its going
dang
a fast boi
the fans are hitting 2500 now
i can def hear it now lol
when the fans spin almost as fast as the pump
:D
hitting 26c on the cpu now
My CPU is at 28c and my fan is only running at 1080RPM lol
2500rpm or bust
I am in Canada if i wanted my system to be cooler i just would open my window lol
and why would i want to make my fan move faster?
If it is already very cool there is no point
10000rpm or bust
I agree your cooler is garbage 
idk what you read, but im hitting 2500rpm.
therefore my pc is good.
because that is the only defining factor.
now its veeeery quiet.
pleb numbers
my fans hit 3100rpm
and my pump hits 4000
damn, tf is my internet doing rn
oof, my router is hott
my fans hit 3100rpm
oof, my router is hott
oof, my router is hott
oof, my router is hott
lol
with also a double post
Lol
with also a double post
or dear, quad post for me too
@hushed yoke u sure i should go for the corsair
Imagine if someone swore during all that they would of been kicked out so fast lol
@hushed yoke yeah 4 fans thats good
But i think that the game max neon is more beautiful
then get the game max neon
@tender root got it 👍 thanks for the help!
is corsair cx probably the best cheap option?
i'm trying to save a little
i know psus aren't the place to save money
but i'm hoping i can get a recommendation on a psu that's good and reliable but at a more budget friendly price
Yeah
Its good, but theres better for similar pricw
Well how does your whole build look
Have*
Because it depends
Do you have a pcpp
Pc part picker?
Yes
Yup
?
Go to that channel
To ask for my case?
Do you have a build already or are you about to build one
@fluid flower CX is the cheapest that is good afaik. Pretty solid PSU
@fluid ether you bought the PSU yet? If not then change it. Same with mobo. Tomahawk is overrated because everyone just looks at the VRMs and forgets about literally everything else that makes a mboo. Tomahawk has good VRMs, but the rest of the board is trash when compared to boards of the same price. $70 board with some good VRMs put on is what it is. Not a decent ~$116 board
Cx for corsair?
CX is a Corsair PSU @naive garden
Eh, tomahawk max is the best b450 board if you want to keep the platform and go to a 3900x down the road specifically bc of the vrms. Everything else in it seems standard to me. Wheres it deficient @lofty pewter?
Last I looked there wasn't a worth while x470 or x570 that low in price, even on deal.
@still blade not rlly, the main selling point is just that its 3rd gen ready
The aorus pro wifi or asus b450-f are better
Could you expand upon how
magic.
the magic of asus never lies
Wait why is this in #cases-psu-and-cooling not #cpus-mobo-and-memory
magic.
@mint terrace you are very welcome :)
@still blade sound chip, M2 slots, amount of PCIe slots, WiFi, ethernet controller, how many of 12v/5v RGB headers, and USB ports; that is where the Tomahawk falls behind with boards of the same price.
Tomahawk is cheap. Also, Tomahawk/a pro are the only cheap boards that support an OCed 3900x yes. But once you spend what will probably be about $400 at the time of upgrade and $45 on cooling, that's a large investment to be worrying over whether you should or shouldn't be running on a super cheap board.
If you compare actual mobo quality, it's equal to basically a $70 board, but has some decent VRMs on it, as I said before
Makes sense
Any suggestions on a good case for this build https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9nzpQq had a thermaltake v200 rgb with last one and liked the look just air flow in front looked terrible. Dont want to spend over 100 either tho
budget @subtle grotto ?
@tender root idk lol was trying to keep it under 1800 1900 and just got a $65 headset and had some tax so just a case under 100 probably
Could go more but dont feel like case needs to be over 100
The fractal design ones under 100 nice
Maybe one with a glass side and possibly rgb fan on front not a biggie lol
then have a look at corsair stuff @subtle grotto
there should be some for you there in that range
Thanks
not that i cannot suggest some, but it is you that has to look at it, so it is just easier for you to have a look yourself and decide what look you are willing to pay for
do y'all think a nr600 or p300a is better?
if that is a trade you are willing to make, then that is your choice.
uh apparently it doesnt have otp or whatever and apparently that's kinda essential
@fluid flower loud, bad load regulation, no OTP, low hold up time, high inrush current, and decently high voltage ripple (close to max allowed spec, which is semi high)
Also bad 3.3v transient response, but afaik that shouldnt matter as I'm pretty sure 3.3v is suppose to be pretty constant 24/7 more or less
@lofty pewter wow that's a lot of info idk
thanks, guess i got nothing else but the cx
thoughts on the EVGA 750GQ? currently looking at replacing my PSU after my Seasonic M12IIs died on me twice.
@rich rain on mobile so can't look much rn. Iirc GQ is okay, but overpriced. Need to actually look into it tho before I can actually recommend it. As for M12 issues, most likely because it's group regulated. Group regulation causes lots of instability, and I'm fairly sure M12 is group regulated. All on memory tho, which sometimes isn't that good. So ye
already mentioned the exact situation I had with the M12II on electronics. but yeah made a bad choice. couple of people recommending the GQ, despite the price
and at this point I wouldn't mind a bit of a price increase
Eh, compitition is quite decent in the PSU market. Spending an extra $15 on an overpriced model could end up making you give up on a decently better model
it was either the EVGA GQ or the Corsair CX750M
I wouldn't go 750w. If you're PC needs a 750w PSU, it'll be more then 2.5k (a 550w can handle a stock 3950x and 2080Ti, 650w is like OCed of that, 750w is like some sort of SLI)
Your PSU price should be proportional to the PC price. So with a 2.5k PC, you should spend more then ~$70 on a PSU
Oh also, CXM has coil whine. Non M, just CX, is good
hmm so basically a 650w should suffice my build?
my setup btw is
Ryzen 5 2600X
Gigabyte B450M-DS3H mobo
Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM
Gigabyte RTX 2060S Gaming OC
planning to upgrade the cpu at some point, and may get an m.2 as well
I mean as a 550w can support a stock 3950x and 2080Ti, Or an OCed 3700x and OCed 2080Ti
But 650w is fine, yeah
if that's the case, then I guess I can go a step lower. though isn't it a thing where overtime, the capacity of a PSU degrades?
or is that just false?
Sounds like a myth
i was guessing the same, since I've had the VS650 for well over a year, and it's still doing fine
(even though i did abuse it to shite before I got a better setup)
It can. Tho there are a lot of factors to it
It'd take quite a few years before anything noticeable would happen
is the corsair 275r a good case?
Yeah pretty good airflow
im not sure if i should get that one or the silent base 801
will this mother board fit my Mid Tower ATX case? (NZXT H510 Compact ATX Mid-Tower) /////// ASUS AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi) ATX Motherboard with PCIe 4.0, Dual M.2, 12+2 with Dr. MOS Power Stage, HDMI, DP, SATA 6Gb/s, USB 3.2 Gen 2 and Aura Sync RGB Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXF8GY3/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_whTtEbE7TRAYE
🤦♂️
🙃
yeah one sec....
Let me know if this link works /// https://pcpartpicker.com/user/capnshanks/saved/
yeah, too late for case. It was one of the first things I purchased. Aesthetically, it's pleasing to me.
What else have u bought
What are your thoughts?
I literally just bought all the parts in that list except mobo
😬
GAAAAAAAAAAA
Ok
Well I can still save you
Buy a b450 instead
Dont worry about bios
I'll look into it but WiFi is mandatory for me...
Okay, thanks. I'm kinda wishing I got advice from here in the first place. But I was getting input and recs from two people.
Two others that have built their PCs....
@minor leaf please know this, IF you are in doubt, ask one of the techies (the people that are yellow like myself) for confirmation. we are happy to help
just remember, we are located around the globe, so we might not respond instantly :)
@lofty pewter it has been since yesterday
Hope it stays in stock. Bitfenix Whisper M/Formula Gold were the best bang for buck before the multi month shortage
@lofty pewter no rush, but want to explain why that PSU has you in need of new pants?
Naed, you are blue?
@tender root tis is a great quality PSU for the price. Bit better then RMx and AMP and has that nice multi rail goodness. Taking a look at the Bitfenix Forumla Gold side (non modular, same as whisper) they have a 750w PSU I can actually recommend at about $96 or so. I use to deem Bitfenix the best in the value in almost highest end perf (can't compete with say the AXi or something tho). To give LTT Tier list perspective, it's an A+ PSU for the price on an A
fair enough, cheers for the info @lofty pewter
Yeah. Bit of backstory. They basically died off for many months and I was sad to see them go as they were one of the go to choices for my recommendations.
aye, understandable
@lofty pewter where's a link that says cxm isn't otp?
i was saying how cxm doesn't have otp or whatever while cx does and apparently cxm does or smth
2012 CXM doesn't. 2015 does. Tho 2015 CXM has coil whine so it should generally be avoided despite having all the protections @fluid flower
i would say so, its a good lookin case too
It’s a M-ATX case by the way
Its pretty, but also pretty overpriced @scenic lance
I want to get a card that is recommended to run with a 650 Watt PSU but I have a 600 Watt PSU with 80+ certification. When I did some rough calculations I got around a total power system usage of 558 Watts with the GPU that I want. Do you think that would be enough leg room to work with the PSU, or do I have to adhere to what the manufacture is saying and a get a 650 Watt rated power supply? By the way, the card is a ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 2070 Super.
@devout cairn that is a worst case scenario for a 2070 super
and that is with one of the highest wattage consumer cpus on market (i9-9900k@5ghz)
wow
thats great because I run a 2700x currently
my guess is that I could buy it, correct?
@lofty pewter what do you think of the evga bd 500? it’s on the same tier as a cx but i was just wondering since it’s cheaper and not bad
@fluid flower you mean GD, not BD I assume? Anyways, GD has lots of models and standard US one isnt that good
Have to do a lot of comparing part # to find a good GD, also probably outsource from uncommon sellers
so this one's probably not as good a cx i suppose?
@lofty pewter yea i meant gd sorry
Yeah it's V1, 2019/18 or smth. No real reviews however it's missing a protection and has a sleeve bearing fan (cheapest bearing, lowest lifespan and doesnt make a good impression)
The good one afaik is 2017 and maybe V7 (could be the same model tbh, idk all the model numbers for it)
I have a weird loop in a front panel connector
Nope
It was the headset
Switched and it works
🤷♂️
id go for a 850w 80+ gold
he would be horribly wrong
lol
@scenic lance
150 is nowhere near enough to power all that
@scenic lance unless OC then 550w. With a good 550w PSU you can run a 3950x and a 2080Ti stock realistically. 145w (CPU) + 375w (GPU) + 70w (rest of system) = 590w. Any decent 550w PSU can run at 590w no problem as most of the decent ones can support at least up to 10% overload (550 * 10% = 600w). Tho if you want to go nicely high then 650w. Bitfenix Whisper M 650w is what I'd recommend if you're a US civilian. If not then availability changes for what the best PSU to buy is at a price point
Wut
Do not question which you are not meant to understand, puny mortal
Jk
🥚
TD500 or H500 or MC500? all coolermaster
are you unsure based on room or aesthetics
Room doesn't matter too much, aesthetics matter slightly
I say TD500
and if it had to be between MC500 and H500?
H500
MINECRAFT 500??
no
Darn
The TD and the H are quite similar tbh, but i don't like the MC
Move ur pc to school?
it'll be like one trip a month or less
Why move it to school?
boarding school
yea but
Expensive
you think I can just grab like 2000$ out of my rear end?
no
Darn it
Hi, anyone has a link to a good covered review (either written or in video) of the corsair
500D RGB
?
Is on "sale" today at a local store in my city (GDL, Mexico) at ~ $230 USD after taxes, which is a little more of what I was expecting to spend in my next case (~180), it looks good but I want to be sure is worth it
thanks
Hi
Anybody on?
I am planning for R7 3700x, 2070 super, 16 GB corsair vengeance rgb, Tuf x570 and 860 Evo. Is 650 watts psu enough for me or should I go for 750 watts? I am not doing Sli. Might do slight overclocking in future though.
Suggestions please
550w is fine, 650w is more then enough
As a note for stock, you can run a 3950x and 2080Ti on a 550w. So an adequately OCed 3700x and 2070S wont be a whole lot
550w would be pushing it imo. Id go 750 min.
Well if you get a good 550w it shouldn’t be a problem
Exactly
Thank you gentlemen
@misty crest A good PSU can supply upto 10% overload (110% total power) very easily, maintaining their already good voltage regulation/ripple, transient response, and noise. So a good 550w PSU can supply upto a sustained 600w easily with a peak of a bit higher. A 3950x stock takes 145w peak, 2080Ti stock is 375w peak, and rest of system is 70w sustained/peak. That is a total of 590w peak, not even sustained. It'd be more like 560w sustained in a hard workload (and lower in gaming). So even the peak power consumption of the PC would stay below the true max sustained power consumption of a good 550w.
So, I recently got an advertisement for this EVGA SuperNOVA 550 GA. Now, I know nothing of power supplies, even less of evga power supplies, so at its current price (on the evga website its supposed to be $110, but with rebates I can get it for $60) is it worth buying?
Heres the link: https://www.newegg.com/evga-supernova-550-ga-220-ga-0550-x1-550w/p/1HU-00J7-004V3
Before anyone asks, no, i did not but that corsair cx550. Plans fell through
It's kinda wierd, but I can't find many sources on that PSU, all I found is this review
https://www.vortez.net/news_story/evga_intros_supernova_ga_series_gold_rated_psus.html
seems good from that review, but maybe someone else has more information
@fickle hawk I saw your reddit post, a LOT of upvotes lol
Well, I made my decision and they had an extra promotion today so that was 213 after taxes for the 500D SE
@smoky sluice with fans?
@candid moth yes, just finished changing everything
hi guys
so i’m about to order my psu
but i think 450w is a bit little
if i upgrade in the future
What's your build
2600x+1660super
was thinking bitfenix formula gold for $60
450w
how long should a psu be used for?
3 years?
cause if i upgrade i’m sure 450w probably won’t be enough
Well tdp tends to stay the same or similar
Maybe a 550w
That has you covered for anything
but shouldn’t 450w be enough for the time being
I thought you were implying that you want to upgrade to better in the future?
cause like
nvm
psu comes with 5 year warranty so i’m using it for 5 years
guess i’m getting the 550w
This is my case. Idk if I should stick to stock config. And buy a Corsair 120mm RGB fan for exhaust or have 2×120mm intake and a 120mm for exhaust
@candid moth
It says argb stock fans so idk if I'll be able to plug in RGB fans
This fan for exhaust
Dont get corsair fans they overpriced
Noctua ftw
^
@fluid flower don't remember the connectors on the 450w formula gold, but that is something to keep in mind. I know CX for example you only have one 6+2 pin on 450w but two on 550w+. Only one connector is quite limiting
But formula gold is a great choice quality wise tho
@candid moth iirc cfm is cubic feet a minute, so for most use cases higher is better
Also CFM is measured differently by different manufacturers
for case fans
Bruh imagine trying to ping everyone
its fine, but you're overspending on the ram+cpu cooler for looks
and just drop the 860 evo for another sabrent rocket its faster for less
for example https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vcMwDx
Well, you're spending a lot of money on looks. Can get a 2080Ti, that or upgrade CPU to 3950x
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RY8jvW
@lofty pewter Ventus cooler is utter garbage, that ram sucks, as do the case and SSD
I mean, neither of those PCs are particularily appealing
as similar performance can be had for MUCh cheaper
@winged geyser
"RAM sucks" - lol, 3600 CL16 sucks? What world you in
"SSD sucks" - Hmm, SSD has a good controller, NAND type, DRAM cache, and average firmware. AKA a normal NVMe
"case sucks" - not really, provides okay airflow and has a glass side panel. Also note that looks is subjective, so good for you
"GPU cooler sucks" - Find me a GPU that isnt overpriced and is white/silver. glhf
3600 C16 is CJR, and that kit has bad primaries, you can probably get soem B die for that price.
Case should nto be considered for a PC of this caliber IMO, unless you add fans to run in negaitve pressire
SSD uses SM2262
and has some decent cache
Would like to see 32gb b die for $160
No, not fot 160. you can get it for 200ish but a 2x2k pc can afford that
So, now that you suddenly say it's more expensive that that Im keeping things to a budget, are you going to complain more?
anyways, SM2262 can also be found on the EX920, which is from a better brand which has better support, while having a longer warranty
"better brand"
yes
You havent looked into HP customer support I guess
On average, they arent good
It seems to be quite known when looking around at HP
I mean I have the EX920 myself, it's good
yeah, on their prebuit stuff
I dont know what to be true with their SSDs
their laptop and PC support is utter trash
No, lot of reviews on the EX920 even complaining about customer support
hmm
strange
anyways, theres also the ex950 which uses SM2258EN, which would be better but it costs a tad bit more
that board is good, I'll say that outright, but you could also consider the Aorus elite
Eh, afaik there is like only $40 to spare until budget is reached
back to the ram, I havent been following prices lately but im sure there is Rev E or other CJR with better primaries and subs for similar price
Case I would personally try and fir a P400A white, or if white isnt a must-have a P300A mesh
Whisper M is great, no complaints there
cheapest 32gb RAM kit is $125, so idk
Mugen 5 is also good, but honestly PBO doesnt benefit from temps if you know hwo to configer clocks and scalars properly
yeah, but that 125 is liekly MFR or DJR
not much room for getting quality stuff on the cheap side
I dont see why the 3900x is there
this seems like a gaming build
and theres almost no performance uplift from a 3800x or even a 3600.3700x if you know how to configure them properly
The user didnt specify what the build was, just gave a build and asked if it was good
I seen a lot of money spent on looks, so I moved it over a bit
I mean, lemme make a list. Mine will liekly be performance oriented but alas
but the user seemed to go for a silver/white build
Yeah, but im just gonna make a banging 2.1k build
thus the "poor" GPU choice
you put it in quotes but Ventus 2080ti model has VRM cooling issues
and just overall thermal issues due to insufiicient size and bad mountin pressure
no no. I meant that it was poor in quality, but in the situation there really isnt anything beter
unless FE is better, but that is like $80 more I think
Fe is better
Should also note that if you can find b die for cheap, you'd best have it stock 3600 speeds with timings already set correctly. Dont think this user is tech savy
turns out EX950 2tb is only 30$ more
definitely worth it
best B die I have found is the Team Dark pros
mega cheap, best heatsink on the market, great bins and all round a pleasure to use
and stock XMP prodile is decent
could use soem tuning but alas
you know what
im idtching the 2.1k build
that pricepoint has some really stupid PCs
lol, going for cheaper or more expensive?
Imma make 3
all round, gaming and compute oriented
All round 1800
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mpkjvW
Gaming 1300
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sRx2jp
Compute 2200
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VBRzp8
there
I'm bored of high end gaming machines, I build them for customers and then they pair them with a 240hz TN panel
and I just want to die
why tomahawk max?
bad sound chip, ethernet controller, slightly less USB ports, only one M2 slot, and no WiFi for boards at the same price
Say b450 TUF Pro or Aorus Pro WiFi
32mb bios chip
They still support the CPUs afaik
better VRM solution and better choke cooling
it supports it
but with a watered down Bios
but again, better VRM for the cost of everything I said above
It's a $70 board with decent VRMs
I'd take the VRMs honestly, wifi doesnt matter for most gamers
I agree, it is a 70$ board
its just a lot of people hate when I puit cheaper boards
like the Gaming pLus
or A pro
which have same VRMs (albeit worse cooling)
M2 slot and sound chip I'd take. If you're getting an 3900x/3950x, Prime P is only $30 more
but "look worse"
fair point with the prime P
List amended
A pro max used to be 80$
was a spam buy
its up to 100 now so I rarely recommend it
Also note for SSD, Lexar NS200
You seem to have a nicer source of info that what I use
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B27_j9NDPU3cNlj2HKcrfpJKHkOf-Oi1DbuuQva2gT4/edit#gid=0
but since this is a gamer oriented system the plan was to basically have it set up StoreMI so it could theoreteically have near-ssd gaming performance while having higher capacity
Curios as to what it is, unless you like looking at reviews
I just have it all in my brain from random reviews
its taken a few months to amass it all
but its all locked up in my head
that is a nice source though
I will bookmark it
Also 650w Formula Gold is like $6 more then 650w CX
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/B8RFf7/bitfenix-formula-gold-650w-80-gold-certified-atx-power-supply-bp-fm650ulag-7r
$4.7 if you use newegg
that looks like the old Formula gold but ok
is MLC two layer?
970 Pro
MLC is 2
ok
Reason: Bad word usage
but samsung is dumb
so they ahve "3 bit MLC"
but uhh
their pro line is 2 bit MLC
either way
bad drives
most cerainly not worth it
what's a good drive?
How much is the 970 pro?
512
that's an oof
you can get 1tb for 120ish cad
so uhhhhhh
unless you NEED the read write endurance of MLC
damn
its not worth
what brand
MLC is moreso for workstations and editing rigs
brand doesnt matter as much as controller does
lemme see the canadian market
im in vancouver BTW
@ornate jay these are all amazing choices
is corsiar spec 02 worth it
It's a case made from Corsair back when they werent horrible at making cases
It's worth probably like ~$45
heres the thing with corsair cases
they almost all suck
they almost all have bad cable management room
they are almost all pretty cheap in quality
almost if not every single one is dub-par in terms of airflow
they dont have an specifically appealing features
so no
the only market where corsair products are decent is PSUs
their fans are overpriced, their ram bin system is stupid at best and often leads to low quality products
So what is a good case?

