Nitro Voron 2.4

[south plume]

Actually someone should try pushing hot glue through a 3d printer (with standard hotend, nozzle, etc)

Or I'm sure someone has

[sweet jasper]

Now for the real trick. Your z offset is actually the actuation distance of the tap from its printing position to when it triggers the sensor. This value never changes. No matter what filament you print, what nozzle you have, what bed you have or what temp you are at*.

Once you are happy, Write it down and store it somewhere. Never touch the offset again

[sweet jasper]

Yeah, it was done a couple years ago. Cnc kitchen maybe. Been a while

Also @odd dew sticky note to remember to remove hot glue before installing panels

[odd dew]

$ Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE
21:26:52
// probe: z_offset: -0.955
// The SAVE_CONFIG command will update the printer config file
// with the above and restart the printer.

[sweet jasper]

Nice. That is .155 higher than what you started with. 3/4 of a layer 🙂

[odd dew]

this is soooo funn trying to get this layer off the bed..

[sweet jasper]

putty knife

Or wait for it to completely cool. I set it on top of my freezer in the garage if I am impatient.

[odd dew]

Whats your cancel macro?

I feel like it should move further from the bed on cancel

or end

[sweet jasper]

[gcode_macro PRINT_END]
#   Use PRINT_END for the slicer ending script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
    M400                           ; wait for buffer to clear
    G92 E0                         ; zero the extruder
    G1 E-15.0 F3600                ; retract filament
    G91                            ; relative positioning
    G0 Z1.00 X20.0 Y20.0 F20000    ; move nozzle to remove stringing
    TURN_OFF_HEATERS
    M107                           ; turn off fan
    G1 Z2 F3000                    ; move nozzle up 2mm
    G90                            ; absolute positioning
    G0  X125 Y250 F3600            ; park nozzle at rear
    #SET_TEMPERATURE_FAN_TARGET TEMPERATURE_FAN=chamber TARGET=40
    BED_MESH_CLEAR

[odd dew]

the scraper that came with my moms bambu works WAY better than the stock spatula style scrapers

[south plume]

@sweet jasper the bed is so fast now what (bumped to 1A)

[sweet jasper]

I use one of these angry things. Hangs on the printer. Good for opening filament bags too.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/painting-tools-and-supplies/paint-scrapers/1499201

[sweet jasper]

It’s more than 1a but yeah max power on the bed is really useful when you add bed fans too

[south plume]

Ah, yeah I mean 100%

I got confused because I put 1 (for 100%) in the config I'm guessing

[sweet jasper]

It happens. 🙂

[south plume]

3 minutes for 23 -> 100

Dang

Possibly faster once this pid tune is done

[sweet jasper]

Mine is 18 minutes to 110

[south plume]

I bet the entire bed isn't full heated

IDK about yours but the thermistor is inside the heater pad on mine which is somewhat unhelpful

[sweet jasper]

My thermistor is in the edge of the bed

[south plume]

Ah that would do it

[sweet jasper]

The whole thing is at temp. 😂

Doesn’t help that the first thing my print start does is kick on all 4 bed fans to 100%

[south plume]

It was very nice of my Internet to only go out after I downloaded the stuff I wanted to test

(using data at the moment)

[south plume]

Lol

[odd dew]

Higher?

Probably

[sweet jasper]

Tiny bit higher.

[odd dew]

Almost there...

Bingo..got it

[sweet jasper]

Get that value and save it. 😝

[odd dew]

#*# [probe]
#*# z_offset = -1.010

$ Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE
22:09:29 
// probe: z_offset: -1.010
// The SAVE_CONFIG command will update the printer config file
// with the above and restart the printer.
22:09:33 
$ SAVE_CONFIG

Now it's voron cube time

// Retries: 3/10 Probed points range: 0.035000 tolerance: 0.007500
22:23:24
!! Retries aborting: Probed points range is increasing. Possibly Z motor numbering is wrong
22:23:24
!! Retries aborting: Probed points range is increasing. Possibly Z motor numbering is wrong
22:23:24
!! Retries aborting: Probed points range is increasing. Possibly Z motor numbering is wrong
22:23:24
echo: "extruder" not hot enough

bruhhhhhh

why

guess ill retry

[south plume]

dino clip

[odd dew]

That shits WET

Or something

[odd dew]

Why's it look like shiieeee

[jade citrus]

looks wet, couple things need tuned further looks like flow & PA are the big ones, make sure youve got retractions enabled and youre not printing too hot for the speed youre going, first layer is also a little close, but before changing that i reccomend doing flow first

[odd dew]

Yea that line shouldn't even be in the middle

[jade citrus]

what where your settings for that cube?

also waht material is it?

[odd dew]

Not near my computer stm

Petg

I think I had flow at like 9

[jade citrus]

v6 SF ?

[odd dew]

TZ v6

[jade citrus]

you could probably get 10-12 no problem, does seem rather wet though

[odd dew]

Should be able to get like 30

[jade citrus]

zits all over the exterior and the exessive stringing tell me that

on petg it will inherintly be a bit slower, good starting point is like 70% of your normal

sometimes youve gotta come down to like 60%

[odd dew]

I'll try a diff color tomorrow

[jade citrus]

it just doesnt flow well lol

yeah for sure, i can share some of my fillament profiles with you as well

[odd dew]

That would be cool

[jade citrus]

theyre built around a formbot 350 2.4 lol

so definitley a good starting point

[odd dew]

That is what I got lmao

[jade citrus]

i know for a fact ive got a decent abs, asa and pla profile

i have a petg one i kinda played with but i mean i dont print petg often

i also have some specific to certain brands of asa/abs, like polymaker, sunlu, and ambrosia

and paramount, but thats entirely centered around decepticon purple and its kinda hard to get tbh

[odd dew]

ASA and petg are my mains

[jade citrus]

im primarilt pla or asa

[sweet jasper]

I think it is time for EM, and PA. Then another round on first layer. Also: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

[south plume]

Interesting, I've found petg to be one of my better flowing filaments

[sweet jasper]

its better than PLA by a small bit, but far worse than ABS

[weak plaza]

or PET-CF

[south plume]

Weird, I've had better luck with it than abs

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SqdChAIsgN4drExaw1dRx4DFQIz0pO-K/view?usp=drivesdk
And so have triangle labs

But I guess I don't know how much you can trust their testing

[sweet jasper]

I don't trust it at all. I do trust E3D's testing though. I will also say that melt zone length plays a part and since I avoid PETG like the plague, I have no firsthand experience.

E3D underrated the revo performance metric by a bit (I prefer to say that they picked a safe number instead of a flashy one) and ABS/ASA is being printed on the cold end of its range while the others are at the top

[odd dew]

Seems kinda weird that extensive calibration would have to be made for this filament since it runs fine with this profile on my other printer

its crazy how the inside of the hole didnt print properly and it somehow went ACROSS the hole

[sweet jasper]

It didn't go across the hole, it didnt adhere and got pulled away

[odd dew]

checks out

i just dont understand how a print profile could vary that much between 2 printers. Flow shouldnt matter because that just really affects speed so lower flow should be fine

[sweet jasper]

Do not use a filament profile made for another printer. Extrusion rates and cooling capacities can be wildly different unless you intentionaly force them to be the same.

[odd dew]

This filament looks wet too

[sweet jasper]

If you want to share them across machines, you will want to spend a LOT of time tuning the rotation distance and other variables to make the machines as consistent as possible.

[sweet jasper]

Look in the guide I linked. THere is a section that covers your exact issue under troubleshooting. Yes, it looks wet too

[odd dew]

perimeter separation

"happens primarily on lower layers" nope it happened on many layers

[sweet jasper]

I have seen it happen all the way up a print on inside perimeters. I would tune the machine independently first. Lots of variables

[odd dew]

independently meaning aside from the filament..?

[lofty oasis]

I had a print with internal threads

I now have a pressfit print

[sweet jasper]

Em is in the filament

[odd dew]

Em is...

extrusion multiplier?

[weak plaza]

extrusion multiplier

[odd dew]

hmm

its not in orca

[low crescent]

It a setting of the filament in orca.

[odd dew]

https://i.imgur.com/hk91MQU.png cap

[sweet jasper]

No matter what, take the time to tune one filament that you ve already tuned to perfection on one of your other machines. do the same with your new machine and compare the differences

[low crescent]

Should be right in the middle under the search bar.

[odd dew]

Flow ratio?

and max volumetric speed

[sweet jasper]

yeah.

[low crescent]

Yeah flow ratio is EM.

[odd dew]

This one's at least the right shape but holy VFAs batman

I've never seen that many

[sweet jasper]

Next step is to work on tensioning your belts

[odd dew]

heh

a/b/z?

[sweet jasper]

Yes

It is also time to tighten your z joints. Home, qgl, raise the gantry high enough that you can get to the bolts going from the z carriage mounts to the gantry and tighten them up. Only do it while the machine is qgl though!

[odd dew]

were they supposed to be loose..?

i didnt leave them loose before

[sweet jasper]

They were. Loosen them slightly, qgl, and then tighten them up

[odd dew]

Ok so after slightly deforming/mashing the plastic on 2 screw holes I kinda developed a feel for how tight to make the screws..

so all of them are now "snug" to the point right before it starts deforming..

[low crescent]

If I also were to make a suggestion, dial back you EM just a bit. It seems like you are plowing on the top layer.

[odd dew]

So is the next step using the phone app to adjust belt tensions..? or

[sweet jasper]

Tune the belt tension and follow that guide I posted earlier to tune em, and the rest of the print

[odd dew]

the vfas point toward a mechanical issue

i think the filament profile is minor rn

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FIQHnHfHOU do I need this?

[sweet jasper]

Flow and pa will absolutely exaggerate symptoms. They need to be done (as well as belt tuning)

[lofty oasis]

Need, nah. Want, absolutely

[sweet jasper]

You definitely want though

[odd dew]

but to make my prints not look like absolute dog ass...phone app tuning?

[sweet jasper]

And the guide. Em and pa need to be done

[odd dew]

ive never had to do this before to fix vfas

[sweet jasper]

They will exaggerate the problem and have you chasing your ass

[odd dew]

so just do a yolo flow test

[sweet jasper]

No, iterate through it.

[sweet jasper]

Don’t use orca, I have no clue what that is

Looks like the right thing though?

[odd dew]

I've never seen filament this stringy there's something funky going on

Gonna do a temp tower..

[south plume]

Your nozzle is screwed in all the way right? I may or may not have left mine way too loose when I built my printer 😅

Careful not to strip the block if you do tighten

[odd dew]

Uhhh I hope so..

[ashen agate]

the ellis pattern defaults to not having any zhop

[odd dew]

this printer is a mystery..

[ashen agate]

did you set the meshing on the extruder motor correctly?

[odd dew]

I mean..I followed the written and video guide and it seemed to move fine

[ashen agate]

if you have used the video guide for meshing the motor, then i believe you.

PETG moment i guess

[odd dew]

I think my nozzle is tight but I don't wanna rip my silicone sock trying to get it off to check

[ashen agate]

mine came tight enough that it took some effort at 280

[odd dew]

so it was tight enough?

[ashen agate]

mine was.

though you need to handle your z offset it seems.

[odd dew]

z offset seems ok to me

[ashen agate]

seems at least .05 too high or so.

or the PA test and tower first layer wouldnt be so weird

[odd dew]

the main thing im trying to figure out right now is the weird stringing and stuff

[odd dew]

thats a brim

https://i.imgur.com/JS4zqxl.png

[ashen agate]

brims are generally one piece.

[odd dew]

ok then skirt

[sweet jasper]

Have you done the Ellis guide yet? https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html

you can also make a post in #slicers_and_print_help

[odd dew]

yes..i did PA, temp tower, flow

first layer

[sweet jasper]

I would recommend a post in the above channel

[jade citrus]

Very thankful to have been given one for my birthday

[ashen agate]

i have the belt meter, but i wish i had a fully calibrated printer when i made it.
it works well for what it is, the hardware kit on west3d is cheap enough it cant really balk at it.

[jade citrus]

Yeah I plan on reprinting it again soon,

[odd dew]

fancy

can someone else print a voron cube in black petg so i can compare

[jade citrus]

Petg isn't as common for us, but maybe?

I'll look and see if I have any, but it'll be like 4 hrs before my printers free for a test print

[ashen agate]

Ive only got clear petg to my memory.

[odd dew]

Trying yet another filament

[odd dew]

I feel like I should install shaketune...

To check mechanical health.

[ashen agate]

Probably will give you more questions than answers at this point

[odd dew]

Not sure what else to do. I've never had this issue just from having bad filament profiles

My belts gotta be messed up

[ashen agate]

Personal reccs are:
Continue with the build
Order belt meter parts + asa
Get the panels on.

[odd dew]

I have ASA

But can't print it until I get the panels on..lmao

[ashen agate]

The asa is for free shipping.

[odd dew]

From west3d u mean?

[ashen agate]

Yeah.

[odd dew]

Sold out 💀

[ashen agate]

Ah, rats.

[odd dew]

Boooo

[ashen agate]

Why is it sold out everywhere...

[odd dew]

Who knows man

[jade citrus]

uhhh idk where youre at but west3d is not sold out of ambrosia

just a few colors are out fo stock

[odd dew]

The belt tool

[jade citrus]

ahh, you can self sourse the spring if need be

hes been having trouble keeping up

[odd dew]

What spring does it need?

[odd dew]

They make a pill for that.

[jade citrus]

one sec, the specs are in the github

lol

[odd dew]

https://a.co/d/08MsarUH I have these springs

Would be cool if it was the same

[odd dew]

Looks pretty decent

[jade citrus]

found a source

[odd dew]

Still got ringing tho

[jade citrus]

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-0-6mmx6mmx50mm-Stainless-Compression-Springs/dp/B076LTYY5K/ref=sr_1_7?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.g-beYAJhtubNlyB1UDtQO0qltUqufY9vLSuXn-c_Nu8kTBVIISs8tjEFTaqC8SdD75CfqWkGvp-K7ibLHxW5h9rMxW7fKnFkcLXDIvU38HXX0ZD0Bi6li9wrEn3Ao5mpdM2TBEZE7H37B4Pns7ngQuo0OrGEUcsG6RvmdfHkU9tv6tV32MPaoFse4ys_z6bPkfnyVxH9XTrcNjn_i-AdQkCpX6dFnprNPXYm_LRL0vE.24cBqHIM5HuOHcwaaqeCGxvhAE90XMzKuCs743O0Ip4&dib_tag=se&keywords=6mm+spring&qid=1777523076&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-7

[jade citrus]

the roinging will be dealt with come IS time

[odd dew]

Yeahh

No point in input shaping until the panels and stuff are on tho

[jade citrus]

there will be a big boost in quality , but you wanna make sure youre building off of a sturdy foundation

[jade citrus]

not nissisarily, its a 2-3 min thing

[odd dew]

Shaketune takes a bit

[jade citrus]

once set up you can and should run it fairly regularly

shake tune is more diagnostics and fine tuning standard IS works just fine just doesnt give you alot of data on potential issues

like ill press IS shaper and let it do what it wants, but if something feels off or looks wrong ill run shakentune to take a closer look

[odd dew]

I'll run standard is then

Any specific guide for voron?

[jade citrus]

use both

fir input shaper?

its baked in, you just gotta enable it

https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html?h=input+shaper#resonance-compensation this is how it works

this sisnt a guide, its the old fashioned way of calculating it without a accelerometer

[odd dew]

What settings do I need for adxl345

[jade citrus]

i may be wrong but im pretty sure all you have to do is put [input_shaper] in your config and then define the [resonance_tester]

[odd dew]

[adxl345]
cs_pin:PA4
spi_software_sclk_pin:PA5
spi_software_mosi_pin:PA7
spi_software_miso_pin:PA6
axes_map: -x, z, -y

What do you have for this section? this is from my plus4, so..different pin

[jade citrus]

#shaper_freq_x: 72.8  # Replace with your X frequency
#shaper_freq_y: 55.4  # Replace with your Y frequency
shaper_type: mzv    # Example shaper type
damping_ratio_x: 0.054 # Range: 0.05 - 0.15
damping_ratio_y: 0.069 # Range: 0.05 - 0.15

[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: adxl345  #beacon
probe_points: 90, 90, 20
accel_per_hz: 100
#sweeping_accel: 400
#sweeping_period: 1.2
#accel_axes_map: x, -y, z
#   Reassign or invert axes of the accelerometer to align with machine coordinates.```

[odd dew]

what about the adxl section?

[jade citrus]

#   Accelerometer
#####################################################################
[adxl345]
cs_pin: nhk:gpio27
spi_software_sclk_pin: nhk:gpio18
spi_software_mosi_pin: nhk:gpio20
spi_software_miso_pin: nhk:gpio19

[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: adxl345
accel_per_hz: 100
sweeping_accel: 400
sweeping_period: 0
##--------------------------------------------------------------------``` this is on my micron

i should mention this is a completely different toolhead

youre on the sb2209 rp2040 toolhead board,

[odd dew]

yea...trying to find the right pin for the 2209

[jade citrus]

me too, would be easier if i could turn my 2.4 on lol

try this this is what i got started with i think ```[adxl345]
cs_pin: EBBCan:gpio1
spi_software_sclk_pin: EBBCan:gpio2
spi_software_mosi_pin: EBBCan:gpio0
spi_software_miso_pin: EBBCan:gpio3
axes_map: z,-y,x

[resonance_tester]
probe_points: 175, 175, 30
accel_chip: adxl345```

/\ this is sb2209 rp2040 specific

[jade citrus]

you did what i did when i built my 2.4 the PA pins are stm based, looks like you took that from the wrong referance

rp2040 pins are like ```gpio3

so put that in your config and then run ACCELEROMETER_QUERY

shoudl see a response like accelerometer values (x, y, z): 995.924147, -0.000000, 9770.718434

[odd dew]

## [input_shaper]
## shaper_type_x = ei
## shaper_freq_x = 44.8
## shaper_type_y = mzv
#*# shaper_freq_y = 34.6

[jade citrus]

so that tells me you shoul look into belt tentions lol , but should be a big improovement nonetheless

doesnt mean its a bad score, its correcting what it measured, when youre tracking down these issues youre trying to remove vivrations and inconsistancies so its not reading anything extra

but for a baseline, should be just fine, go ahead and try another print, then revisit whatever issue is most prominent

[odd dew]

I also just changed infill density, wall loops, bottom layers, infill pattern....to match the voron cube recommendations

[jade citrus]

alot of input shaper diagnosis is done with 2 walls and no or low infill mostly to save fillament , but its best to compare them to actual print settings

what where you reccomended accel values?

[odd dew]

I was on 2 walls, 15% mono infill and 3 bottom layers

I'll check in a min

[jade citrus]

youll have to dig a bit in the console, but find where it fits the shaper and gives a max reccomended accel

EI on x and MZV on y

[odd dew]

00:54:40 
// To avoid too much smoothing with 'zv', suggested max_accel <= 8200 mm/sec^2
00:54:43 
// Fitted shaper 'mzv' frequency = 31.8 Hz (vibrations = 3.4%, smoothing ~= 0.201)
00:54:43 
// To avoid too much smoothing with 'mzv', suggested max_accel <= 3000 mm/sec^2
00:54:46 
// Fitted shaper 'ei' frequency = 44.8 Hz (vibrations = 1.6%, smoothing ~= 0.160)
00:54:46 
// To avoid too much smoothing with 'ei', suggested max_accel <= 3700 mm/sec^2
00:54:49 
// Fitted shaper '2hump_ei' frequency = 39.0 Hz (vibrations = 0.0%, smoothing ~= 0.355)
00:54:49 
// To avoid too much smoothing with '2hump_ei', suggested max_accel <= 1500 mm/sec^2
00:54:52 
// Fitted shaper '3hump_ei' frequency = 53.8 Hz (vibrations = 0.0%, smoothing ~= 0.283)
00:54:52 
// To avoid too much smoothing with '3hump_ei', suggested max_accel <= 2000 mm/sec^2
00:54:52 
// Recommended shaper_type_x = ei, shaper_freq_x = 44.8 Hz
00:54:52 
// shaper_type_x:ei shaper_freq_x:44.800 damping_ratio_x:0.100000
00:54:52 
// shaper_type_y:mzv shaper_freq_y:0.000 damping_ratio_y:0.100000
00:54:52 
// Shaper calibration data written to /tmp/calibration_data_x_20260430_045002.csv file
00:54:52 
// Calculating the best input shaper parameters for y axis
00:54:55 
// Fitted shaper 'zv' frequency = 36.8 Hz (vibrations = 6.8%, smoothing ~= 0.117)
00:54:55 
// To avoid too much smoothing with 'zv', suggested max_accel <= 5200 mm/sec^2
00:54:58 
// Fitted shaper 'mzv' frequency = 34.6 Hz (vibrations = 0.0%, smoothing ~= 0.170)
00:54:58 
// To avoid too much smoothing with 'mzv', suggested max_accel <= 3500 mm/sec^2
00:55:01 
// Fitted shaper 'ei' frequency = 41.2 Hz (vibrations = 0.0%, smoothing ~= 0.190)
00:55:01 
// To avoid too much smoothing with 'ei', suggested max_accel <= 3200 mm/sec^2
00:55:04 
// Fitted shaper '2hump_ei' frequency = 51.2 Hz (vibrations = 0.0%, smoothing ~= 0.206)
00:55:04 
// To avoid too much smoothing with '2hump_ei', suggested max_accel <= 2900 mm/sec^2
00:55:07 
// Fitted shaper '3hump_ei' frequency = 61.4 Hz (vibrations = 0.0%, smoothing ~= 0.217)
00:55:07 
// To avoid too much smoothing with '3hump_ei', suggested max_accel <= 2700 mm/sec^2
00:55:07 
// Recommended shaper_type_y = mzv, shaper_freq_y = 34.6 Hz
00:55:07 
// shaper_type_x:ei shaper_freq_x:44.800 damping_ratio_x:0.100000
00:55:07 
// shaper_type_y:mzv shaper_freq_y:34.600 damping_ratio_y:0.100000
00:55:07 
// Shaper calibration data written to /tmp/calibration_data_y_20260430_045002.csv file
00:55:07 
// The SAVE_CONFIG command will update the printer config file
// with these parameters and restart the printer.

that accel aint shit 😭

[jade citrus]

looks like youre limited to 3500 rn, thats abou half what a stock printed gantry 350 v2 should be capable of, time to break out shakentune and take a look

my v2 with cnc x joints and a stealthburner on a rigid mount is like 8300

[odd dew]

Only 8300?

[jade citrus]

its a 350 with a chonky stealthburner

it does 350-500 mm/s print speed just lower accels because of stock gantry adn heavy toolhead / direct drive ect

i broke it while trying to put a lighter toolhead on LOL

[boreal marsh]

My 250 is 8500 accel on Y. So 3500 sounds about right for a 350. Could be a little better but that’s why #1308016330326413393 exists.

[odd dew]

// Bed Mesh state has been saved to profile [default]
// for the current session.  The SAVE_CONFIG command will
// update the printer config file and restart the printer.
01:13:09 
// pressure_advance: 0.040000
// pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.040000
01:13:09 
// Unknown command:"T0"

​

This is kinda sus..T0 is a BoxTurtle command..this machine does NOT have a box turtle

i have no idea where that command is coming from

[jade citrus]

orca

[boreal marsh]

T0 is auto output by Cura or when Orca is setup incorrectly

[odd dew]

its not in machine gcodes or anything

[boreal marsh]

Make sure your machine is set to klipper in orca

[jade citrus]

in the gcode flavour section of the setup

[boreal marsh]

My 350 is so heavily modded it a poor source of an accel on Y. 🤣

[odd dew]

It is

[boreal marsh]

Hmmmm… it should be outputting T0 then… weird.

[jade citrus]

then make sure youre not trying to print multicolor?

[boreal marsh]

That would also help. Don’t have more than one filament color setup

[jade citrus]

sometimes orca throws a second copy of the first fillament here, there should only be one color selected

[odd dew]

Oh I do have 4 filaments there.

[boreal marsh]

I’m sadly at work so no pics from orca from me. Lol

[boreal marsh]

Only keep one.

[jade citrus]

this most recent update seems to make that come back when swapping printers, but not when you only use orca for one machine

[boreal marsh]

You can have them saved at different filament profiles. But not multiple profiles for one project. Otherwise orca will just send out T0 to TN everytime you start a print.

[odd dew]

I would think the filament setup would save to the machine

[boreal marsh]

Which technically. You can just add blank T macros to your config if you want to do that actually. Just won’t output any errors to console that way.

[jade citrus]

as far as 3500 accels go, im assuming youve got a floppy umbilical, on a chonky stealthburner, on a tap plate, on a printed gantry, with possibly mismatched belt tention, checks out tbh

[boreal marsh]

You can easily get higher by swapping a few things out. But honestly it’s a 350. Don’t expect it to be a speed demon.

[odd dew]

belts are tensioned to "yep good enough".

cause i dont have a tension tool.

[jade citrus]

as time goes on youll be able to turn that up, and make your assembly more rigid, but your accels will always seem lower because its a pretty BIG printer lol looooong belt paths

[boreal marsh]

Unless you’re me.

In which case my 350 is my fastest machine… I dunno how I accomplished that. 🤣

[odd dew]

what accels u running?

[jade citrus]

id be estatic to see 10k out of my 350,i think printed mololith and a different toolhead would do it

[boreal marsh]

The 350? Keep in mind is so heavily modded it may as not be a Voron. But its Y IS graph is 24k recommended. I run that for outer walls and 70k for the rest

[odd dew]

HOLY SHIT

vzbot who???

[jade citrus]

yeah, thats micron accels.... on a 350

[odd dew]

imma need that mod list 👀

[boreal marsh]

Lmao. I uh. I had some fun. 🤣. Gantry is probably one of the more overkill things out there.

[jade citrus]

its more mods than voron at this point XD

[boreal marsh]

Luckily. It’s available. 🤣. Orion Hexdrive. However that gantry is only for tridents.

That’s the magic mod that makes everything zoomy. Everything else was just adding more fuel to the fire. 🤣

[jade citrus]

i can save you the trouble of googling, hes got a secont set of motors entirely deticated to the y axis to "level"decimate the playing feild oh.... and its awd too

[odd dew]

🤣

wild

[boreal marsh]

Plus it’s AWD and run with 6 kraken stepper motors.

[jade citrus]

oh yeah, and theyre big ASS motors too

[boreal marsh]

Running a high enough voltage to make me not be near the machine when printing either. Lol.

[odd dew]

world record benchy?

[boreal marsh]

Nah. But I am almost sub 4 minutes. 🤣

[jade citrus]

not quite, just a local sound ordnance violation on hula feet

[odd dew]

bros got the "locally hated" decal on his car

[jade citrus]

printer*

[boreal marsh]

Not to mention the toolhead + hotend costs about the same as another Voron. 🤣

[odd dew]

true

WHAT

[boreal marsh]

Calamity + Chube Conduction.

[odd dew]

i regret asking

i want stealthchanger or something instead of all that speed lmao

[boreal marsh]

This is the hotend alone.

[boreal marsh]

Probably more worthwhile.

[jade citrus]

yeah, so its not a great representation of a stock 350.

[boreal marsh]

Like. At all

It used to be stock… I don’t remember what the graphs were. LOL

[jade citrus]

took all the record attempt tech from the tiny printers and just started cramming them in a 350 frame

the sidepack frames not cheap either

#1406666805249835219 message @odd dew

[boreal marsh]

Actually here you go. My original graphs.

Back when it was stock.

[boreal marsh]

Microwave 2.0 is the 250. Lol

[jade citrus]

oh...

XD

[odd dew]

I wanna gayify my voron with rgb

[boreal marsh]

https://tenor.com/view/confetti-genial-fabulouus-fabulous-fab-gif-13642634

[jade citrus]

oh yeh i shoulda known, its missing like 4 krackens

[boreal marsh]

So true. It’s got 2 now though! 🤣

[jade citrus]

4 more to go

honestly id be scared of the accels you could get with the same setup on the 250...

[boreal marsh]

Thor’s was 50k iirc on his 250 on Y graph. He tested up to 120k accel but it gets scary testing that high. Lol

[jade citrus]

sprinkle in a cnc monolith gantry and uhh

[jade citrus]

daummnn

yea thats straight terrifying tbh, the encloser would need to be balistics rated atp

[boreal marsh]

Ah. 42k. Lol

[jade citrus]

sorry to hijack your build log nitro, hows it going?

[boreal marsh]

And yes. At that size Y is higher than X. LOL

[boreal marsh]

Figure out the T0 thing @odd dew ?

[odd dew]

voron cube is still going

tbh idc enough to look into it lmao its not causing issues

[boreal marsh]

Why not a Dino clip?

[boreal marsh]

So valid. Lol

[odd dew]

dino clip isnt gonna tell me how fukt my pritner is lmao

[boreal marsh]

https://www.printables.com/model/64493-dino-clip-mechanical-cam-chip-clip-print-in-place

[boreal marsh]

Yes it will. Lol

It’s a test print for a reason.

[odd dew]

ok fine ill do it after this lmao

i thought it was a meme

[boreal marsh]

Lmao. @sweet jasper will be happy.

[boreal marsh]

Nah. It’s a genuine useful test print. Even tests overhangs. And can be used as a chip clip afterwards.

[jade citrus]

yup! i love my cubes as im collecting them but that clip is printed more often now than cubes in my household across 3 vorons

[boreal marsh]

I actually use them at chip clips too. 🤣

They work great for freezer things too.

[jade citrus]

me too ! my father in law said " make me one " i said with pleasure lol

[boreal marsh]

It dawns on me how much I blame wheels for things… 🤣

[jade citrus]

need to upgrade the motors on my 2.4 so i can use the moons nema 17s on the micron lol

[odd dew]

latest voron cube is perfect

[jade citrus]

pics

[odd dew]

Dino clip is going now

@jade citrus any idea if the formbot kit comes with everything else but the springs? The self tapper screws are more bhcs though

[jade citrus]

MUCH BETTER

[jade citrus]

you should have plenty of all that extra

the 2x10 self tappers will be fine with the phillips head tbh

you dont get 3x7 iirc , but youll have leftover 3x6

[odd dew]

Yeah I do

[jade citrus]

the washer , you could probably get away with whatever you have on hand tbh

[odd dew]

I have m3 washers

Idk the thickness or width

[jade citrus]

so the washer that came with it was wider i think it calls for 8mm wide

[boreal marsh]

Or print one.

[jade citrus]

its for the dial indicater, you could probably get away with a regular m3 washer

[jade citrus]

true

[jade citrus]

revisit PA, flow , then VFA

[odd dew]

Rude

[jade citrus]

lol reccomendations come from the elf himself

[boreal marsh]

EM looks a little high. PA looks fine to me. VFA can be adjusted by playing with outer wall speed.

Also use black filament if you can.

[odd dew]

The black filament looks worse 🤣💀

[boreal marsh]

That’s the point.

[odd dew]

At least did earlier

[boreal marsh]

Black is far easier to read.

[jade citrus]

thats the point

[odd dew]

Should I change it back to 2 walls or whatever for all this

[boreal marsh]

Doesn’t matter. I like tuning with Voron settings. Then I know it’s golden.

[odd dew]

True

[jade citrus]

when trying to get close than sure, when your close you need to see it in normal print conditions

[boreal marsh]

It does use more filament ofc.

[jade citrus]

for instance the pa could be slightly off because of the swap from infill to outer wall,

you wouldnt see that particular issue if youre printing with no infill,

[odd dew]

So I should calibrate everything with voron settings like it says lol

[boreal marsh]

That’s what I recommend. Can use 15-20% infill though for calibrating and non Voron parts.

[jade citrus]

The perimeter count is a bigger contribution to artifacts than infill

[low crescent]

You want to know something cool? The cube will print with 0 infill and 3 walls and 0 top surfaces. 😉

[odd dew]

That's dope

[odd dew]

Dino clip is a lot bigger than expected lmao

[odd dew]

Had to pry the jaws apart with a lot of force

[jade citrus]

did you read the file?

squeese like nutcracker?

[boreal marsh]

Squeeze it!

[jade citrus]

also probably could use some flow tuning

[boreal marsh]

And also remove the built in support.

[odd dew]

Yes I did that

Support stuck to the build plate lmao

Can only squeeze it so far

[sweet jasper]

The line between blame and credit is extremely thin

[sweet jasper]

It looks like you got everything tuned enough to get into running input shaper. Congrats. You should show a pic of the dino clip with the jaws open.

Also, have your serial post done yet?

[odd dew]

I already did IS

[sweet jasper]

I know. I was saying that it looked like you had gotten through to that point 😉

What was your breakthrough?

[odd dew]

Increasing wall count to 4 and changing filament

[lofty oasis]

https://tenor.com/view/im-in-this-photo-i-dont-like-it-dinosandcomics-dinosaur-gif-19587179

[south plume]

I mean personally I do like my calicat army

But the clips are also good

[odd dew]

Welp

[sweet jasper]

It knew you were cheating on it

[odd dew]

Justifying my decision is what it's doing

[odd dew]

1 of the arms broke off the beacon mount and the other one twisted so I gotta mount it at an angle...

Fun fun!

I love 3d printing

[ashen agate]

Same same. My old printer popped a fuse the moment i needed a voron repair.

[jade citrus]

So. The panel clips are "thin" enough you can print them on the voron open air if need be btw

In ASA

[odd dew]

@sweet jasper happy? Lmao

[sweet jasper]

I had no problems with the way it was before. 😂

[odd dew]

I gotta figure out what to do with this long ass can cable since it's outside the chamber

[sweet jasper]

Feed it through a hole in the skirt and bundle it under the machine

[odd dew]

Basically what I did

[sweet jasper]

Yep. Pretty standard

[jade citrus]

That's how all my machines are, exception being the switchwire, it had a specific cable built to length so it's got like 4 inches of extra tops

[south plume]

https://www.printables.com/model/1603941-split-rear-center-skirt-with-pug-pass-through-for

Is what I have, if you want to make it cleaner looking

Functionally it doesn't matter

[jade citrus]

Nice!

[odd dew]

Haven't been home. Just keeping the thread alive

[odd dew]

Case light installed

[odd dew]

https://i.imgur.com/LENRBO2.png chamber temp sensor mounted and setup

[weak plaza]

@odd dew I've got the frame for a 2.4 350 fridge door if you're interested

[odd dew]

The extrusions only? @weak plaza

[weak plaza]

I'll DM you what I have in little bit after a meeting

[odd dew]

Sick thanks

[weak plaza]

sent

[odd dew]

#voron_2_discussion message sending here for future use

[odd dew]

Goal is to swap my current gears from my SB CW2 over to this https://www.printables.com/model/1154980-wwbmg-wristwatch-extruder-for-idga-with-sherpa-min

Then use the gears from west3d to build the "normal" wwbmg

(building 2 antheads to start)

[weak plaza]

GMM is my favorite color make sure you dry the cosmic shimmer well, it was very weitlrd straight out of the bag (dumb of me not to dry it, I know)

[boreal marsh]

You saved almost $20! Nice! (And got free shipping!)

[odd dew]

Seeing as I'm thinking of getting the whole kit from west3d now I'll save even more