Microwave 2.0

[pine delta]

Most prints have completed successfully. Lol

Total print time on this guy is equal to ~220 hours on the X1C.

@fleet zephyr I love this thing. Maybe I don’t need to think about switching to monolith. Lmao

[open elm]

Atleast wait for monolth cnc befofe you decide anything

Ldo is cooking on an awesome kit

[pine delta]

I could. But I was thinking about a printed gantry cause the metal just makes things louder. I was considering going to monolith with 2 krakens to run the printer a bit quieter. The motor noise is my main issue right now.

[open elm]

Insulation helps keep the sound in!

[pine delta]

Yea. I plan to insulate a little at some point. However it’s not likely to help as much with the PC door. Lol. And I’m not changing that. I love this K3 door.

I’m hoping that switching to 2240 and 36v will help a bit with the noise. I’m fine with the CPAP blower. It’s consistent and not very loud. Just like having a fan on in the background.

[open elm]

yea thats true

#1317580899184807976 has insulation everywhere

[pine delta]

Yes well. Some of us like aesthetics more than others.

[open elm]

a metal box is pretty nice

[pine delta]

I’m annoyed with the panel clips to the point I plan on designing my own versions. 🤣

So yea. Safe to say. I prefer aesthetics and I will keep to that when I do insulation.

Current plan is 1/2in ceramic wool with a ACM panel in front and behind it. Should fit in the sidepack frame so won’t increase the footprint of the printer any.

[fleet zephyr]

Looks solid to me, if it’s good as is then I say keep it lol

[pine delta]

I mean. 10k on Y IS isn’t bad for a 250. Lol.

[pine delta]

Can still see the magnets despite the massive faulty regions around them. Lmao

Really thinking beacon is a next upgrade kind of thing. Shouldn't need the faulty regions that way

Or just do a mesh with beacon touch. Lol

[fleet zephyr]

beacon is quite wonderful, I run my printer once a month maybe and its always dead on

[pine delta]

I think I’m using like 70mm squares around the magnets. Maybe 80mm… lmao. There’s not much of the bed actually being scanned anymore.

[soft zenith]

Okay I'm back home now, so I'm looking at motors wires and drivers, I have most of everything else figured out, may need a better idea of belt length just to be sure I have enough

[pine delta]

You either need 2 2.4m closed loop belts from KB-3D or probably 6-8m of belts from anywhere else.

[soft zenith]

I'm looking at ordering from west3d $10 a meter

Right? .50 per 100mm

[bright aurora]

If its $10 a meter than itd be $1 per 100mm

Since 1Meter is 1000mm

Iirc

Let me double check

Yeah thats right

[soft zenith]

Okay so it's $5 a meter lol

[ionic atlas]

No. I don’t think west3d sells closed loop

That would be open loop that you are buying

[soft zenith]

Yeah I don't need closed loop

[ionic atlas]

Closed loop is nice though

[soft zenith]

Yeah but the sizing and what not, just beyond me lol

[ionic atlas]

Oh you just cut the belts

It isn’t an actual closed loop on the printer

[soft zenith]

Lol okay that makes more sense

[ionic atlas]

It just means that you got a straight cut of the tube instead of a spiral

So you get a lot less belt walk

And belt dust

Overall a lot nicer. People say it lasts longer but belts last so long anyways unless you are running insane tension

[candid ferry]

@pine delta do you have the files available for the skirts and display cowling you used in your microwave side pack build?

[pine delta]

Uh… not handy atm. 😅. I know I posted something somewhere though…

[pine delta]

Check these. I dunno if I put everything in there though. Been a while since I looked at that. https://github.com/Xiar1/Voron/tree/main/Microwave2.0/mods

[candid ferry]

ALRIGHT HTANKS

oops caps

[pine delta]

They just love to be inconvenient.

[candid ferry]

hey sorry to bother your again i just really love your build

what gland did you use for the side pack?

[pine delta]

PG9 I think. I’d have to check the printer though

[naive plaza]

@pine delta do you have a link for uap for voron belts?

[pine delta]

I do not. I custom made the X carriage I’m using.

[naive plaza]

Ahhh thats why i couldn't see it

[pine delta]

I’m using the v4 body (I think) with the v6 x carriage parts. But I took the holes for the belts and flipped the tooth location on them in cad.

[naive plaza]

How much did you gain when you switch to uap

[pine delta]

I dunno. I never had anything else on the printer. Lol. It was built right from the beginning with UAP.

[naive plaza]

It looks cool as well 😎

[candid ferry]

@pine delta what length din rails did you use

[pine delta]

Standard length for a trident 250

[pine delta]

Going to be working on this printer soon. Will be swapping from nema14 AWD to nema17 2wd. Gonna use krakens and run them at 36v with a 30t pulley.

Still going to be running the ole ATSS sheet metal gantry as well.

[pine delta]

I have ordered ATSS nema17 and 30t pulleys!

[bright aurora]

Why?

[pine delta]

Because I like ATSS and it’s on sale and in budget.

[bright aurora]

No swapping from AWD to 2WD.

[pine delta]

Oh! Cause these Nema14’s are quite loud, AWD is kinda getting annoying on the printer that needs to print all the time, and considering I’m going for more reliability over anything, I’ve decided it would be more worthwhile.

[bright aurora]

Can't argue with that

[pine delta]

Not to mention that since I’m planning on slowing it down a lot. It’ll be nicer to run with smoother motors.

[bright aurora]

Id expect just bambu speeds but bit more due to flow

[pine delta]

Ehhhhh. I’m thinking for now just running on the defaults in orca for a Voron.

[bright aurora]

Thats really slow.

[pine delta]

Like I said. Looking for more reliable from it. I’ll probably bump up the speeds a bit eventually. But for now I’ll just be happy with reliable.

[bright aurora]

If you gotta go that slow for reliability smths wrong

[pine delta]

Gotta start somewhere for improving it. Might as well start at the defaults. Right now I can’t get consistent quality from it. I start getting that and I’ll start speeding it up a bit. It’ll still be on 36v and have krakens so not like it can’t. Lol

[bright aurora]

Yeah that should still be pretty speed capable

[pine delta]

But. We’re gonna run it for like 50 print hours with just the defaults to make sure everything’s copacetic.

[bright aurora]

Dont know what that word Means lol

[pine delta]

Everything’s golden. Lol

[bright aurora]

Ah.

Hows HexDent doin?

[pine delta]

I learn new words when listening to books then wanna sound fancy. Lol

[pine delta]

Existing as the world’s loudest printer. 🤣

[bright aurora]

Is it really That loud?

[pine delta]

I only use it a max of a few hours a week for a reason. Lmao

[bright aurora]

Guess you need @misty furnace to make the TMC5262s so you can use the better Stealthchop

Or is it the fans?

[pine delta]

Combination of everything

[bright aurora]

The HexDents chamber dosent seem to be that soundproofed lol

[pine delta]

Doesn’t help I don’t have a chamber. Lol

[bright aurora]

Ah i think I've found your issue

[old viper]

Which toolhead is that? A custom one? If it isnt, could someone send a github link to it for me to check out?

[pine delta]

https://www.printables.com/model/1287910-uap-toolhead

[ionic atlas]

There is no github. Best way to find info on it is on monolith discord. That is where the main active chat for it is. There is also the old fiberstream chat in armchair but that is long dead.

[pine delta]

I remembered to order 6 pin microfits for the krakens!

[pine delta]

Hehe. Old 1504 nema14 on the right. New 3004 nema17 on the left.

And the pulley upgrade to go with it. 🤣

[ionic atlas]

this is going to be weird

[pine delta]

Also going from AWD to 2wd. lol

[ionic atlas]

yeah that will be fun

[pine delta]

I think it will be better overall for print quality too. No more dealing with AWD sync.

[pine delta]

Huh… so that’s what happened last print on the microwave 2.0…. The filament snapped. Lmao

Went to unload it before disassembling half of it and well. What do ya know? It wasn’t an extruder issue after all. Lol

[pine delta]

Well that explains why the filament broke… the galvanic umbilical holder snapped.

[fervent zephyr]

I had the same thing happen recently lol

[pine delta]

First motor replaced with a simple idler!

[pine delta]

Old

New

[fervent zephyr]

https://tenor.com/view/brandon-herrera-ak50-thicc-damn-rear-trunnion-gif-19257419

[pine delta]

We don’t even need double shear anymore. 🤣

[pine delta]

Gonna slap the toolhead on and stop there but. SUPER SMOOTH MOVEMENT! Hooray!

Belts are tensioned to 2.5 as well.

[fleet zephyr]

ooh, very nice!

[pine delta]

Also. UAP is removable in one piece. 🤣

[pine delta]

Thanks! I’m hoping this will help for more consistent print quality. Going from AWD nema14 to 2WD nema17.

And my biggest concern has been alleviated. Plenty of clearance from those big shafts.

My belt path is also shorter technically over all now.

[pine delta]

Tomorrow’s plans. Reassemble the panels, wire up the new motors, remove the UHP-48, Make and print an adapter for the cheap 36v psu I got off Amazon, mount said 36v psu, test said 36v psu to verify it is outputting 36v, wire to the M8P, and then finally boot up the printer, edit the config for 2209’s on Z and 2240’s on X/Y, and get back to printing hopefully! I highly doubt these krakens at 36v with 30t pulleys are gonna struggle to do 600mm/s at 30k accel even with just like 1.5-1.6A of run current. Lmao.

[pine delta]

Right motor thermistor is TH2 and Left motor thermistor is TH3

[pine delta]

Amazon cheap PSU installed and we have 36v! Looking good!

[pine delta]

Rear panel installed and CPAP reconnected. Now just printing a new galvanic cause my old one apparently snapped. Lol

[pine delta]

ITS ALIVE!

This is probably the funniest part about it. LOL

Underglow is back too! 😆

@soft zenith Look! I got it back online! Not printing yet but that’s tomorrow. Now you have to get your printer working too!

[soft zenith]

im building a uart cable as we speak lol

[pine delta]

Nice! I kept finding spots where I needed zip ties while I was finishing up the umbilical. Lol

I’m off to sleep. Where hopefully tomorrow we get a print going on it!

[hollow hemlock]

What made you decide to ditch the AWD?

[pine delta]

Noise and simplicity. No longer need to AWD sync every print.

Should be quieter while printing now as well.

[hollow hemlock]

Makes a lot of sense lol. Didn't know there was a sync that had to be done either but makes sense.

Another plus is you can have a door! 😂

[pine delta]

It’s always had a door…

[pine delta]

Yea. With AWD tension is often not equal on both sides of the pulleys for each motor set.

[hollow hemlock]

https://tenor.com/view/sealyx-naked-gun-the-naked-gun-facepalm-facepalm-meme-gif-11743768702765397589

Thought it was the one without one. Brain is mushy today XD

[hollow hemlock]

That sounds like a pain, I see why you'd want to make it more simple. I guess now your set up would be considered the 2WD variant? I think that's what I saw it called.

[pine delta]

That’s Hexdent with no chamber currently.

[hollow hemlock]

Been looking at so many projects I can't keep up with which is which apparently.

This one I think is still my favorite aesthetically

[pine delta]

Mine too. Lmao.

[pine delta]

Not bad

Probably should figure out why theres a giant bump on Z...

For reference this was the old AWD nema14 graph

And something very wrong on Y...

OH! 30 SCV. 🤣

Better accel recs now. Lol

Actually its higher than with AWD...

AWD was 13860 and 2WD is 14400... for X anyways.

That's better as well

First print since the new gantry install started!

[pine delta]

Y is down 4k on accels. But that’s fine. I wasn’t planning on going as crazy right now anyways. Lol

[pine delta]

Well first print looks like I either have an extruder problem or my filament is soaking wet…

[pine delta]

Actually… I wonder if it’s my ptfe tube… it was hard to get the filament past one spot in particular.

[pine delta]

Actually my filament is 100% soaked… LOL! Just did a test at open air extruding. It extruded 100mm at 60³ flow with no issue.

[fleet zephyr]

graphs are looking very clean, nice

[ionic atlas]

8500 for a nice clean graph like that is really good

[pine delta]

Got any clues on X? Perhaps just retest with toolhead board adxl?

[ionic atlas]

Looks like either a retest or a toolhead issue

Maybe ask ingstronmentalist about it if it persists

[pine delta]

Eh. I’ll retest and then live with it if it’s still there. 🤣

[ionic atlas]

It could be a configuration thing with your particular setup

The toolhead board and a couple other things could be messing with the center of mass

[pine delta]

I should check my XY joints for loose screws…

[ionic atlas]

Oh yeah definitely do that

There should be a cheap atss xy joint

[pine delta]

They are the stock Voron ones but Mgn12h instead of MGN9H. Lol. But I haven’t rechecked them since building.

[pine delta]

Can’t use it. I have Mgn12h linear rails. V slot frame.

[ionic atlas]

Oh weird

Was v slot all you had at the time?

[pine delta]

Otherwise I’d had Vitalli live idler XY joints. Lol.

[ionic atlas]

I guess you could switch to mgn9 when you get that new frame

[pine delta]

Garage sale Fabreeko sidepack frame. Was like $60. Lol. Normal sidepack frames are $300+

[pine delta]

New frame will belong to #1309948210160205834

[ionic atlas]

Oh that is a deal

[ionic atlas]

Oh ok. Makes sense. Spend the money on the flagship of your printer fleet

[pine delta]

It’s the biggest printer I own. And also currently kinda the ugliest. 🤣

[ionic atlas]

Hopefully not for long

[pine delta]

Kinda doubt I’ll be buying the frame in May now. Since I needed a new monitor for my pc and well. That money is now already spoken for. If I get lucky I might order it.

[ionic atlas]

A triple paycheck month

[pine delta]

Indeed. Next one is October. So if anything I’ll probably do it then.

[ionic atlas]

Tell yourself that the money is “extra printer money”

[pine delta]

How’d you read my mind? 😂

[ionic atlas]

Lol

https://tenor.com/view/tkt-smart-gif-20642718

[pine delta]

Normally those 3 payday months are in fact printer money. But uh. My monitor has been doing this a lot more lately. So it’s been replaced/upgraded with a newer version and is currently the secondary monitor instead until it permanently dies.

[bright aurora]

and mine too apparently

https://tenor.com/view/homer-brain-monkey-gif-5536092560838425414

[pine delta]

Okay. And funny thing with my wet AF ABS. You could see it drying it while printing thanks to it being in the chamber. 1) Stealthmax S Smart kept having increasing humidity readings. 2) The 2 prints I did improved with time. Lol

[proven sapphire]

I see that too, with Dueling Zero, which has dual internal spool holders. By the time you're a few hours into the print, the quality improves noticeably when the filament starts wet. For years I didn't even dry my filament, but now that Monolith Zero has an external spool holder, the PrintDry is back in action. Took too many crappy prints to realize it was just wet! Internal spool holders spoil you like that.

[pine delta]

I think for me it ended up becoming a combination of wet filament and not printing fast enough… silly Goliath long af meltzone things. Lol

[proven sapphire]

Long hotends are longer springs. Printing fast and at a constant speed has been working well for me lately.

The surprise for me is that with sparkle filament, you might not notice the effect of wetness on side walls, and then bam, top surfaces look like crap with apparent over extrusion.

You can probably tell which one had wet filament!

Lol

[pine delta]

Yes. Yes I can. 🤣

[pine delta]

I might heat the chamber and just leave it to sit for a day. See if that helps the filament (chamber can get to around 60c) before I start diving into my hotend/extruder for a potential issue. Or ask the peeps in #slicers_and_print_help cause after that I have no clue what’s going on.

[pine delta]

Chamber is currently just sitting idle at 50-55c. Just gonna leave it to continue to heat up or just sit at that temp for a day to dry out the ABS spool inside. Lol

[devout depot]

Do you have an air fryer

If not you need to fix that for non printer reasons, but they also work great to dry filament

[bright aurora]

Always need an airfryer no matter what

[pine delta]

I really don’t need one. I almost never need to dry filament. It’s just that I took the spool from the objectively dry chamber and put it in the floor while it was storming for 3 days while I changed gantries. So it’s either wet or I have an extrusion problem.

Right now for the rare occasion where I need a filament dryer I’m saving makerworld points to buy a Bambu labs HT AMS. I’ll be getting it completely free in the end. LOL

[pine delta]

It worked! Chamber sufficiently dried the ABS spool mounted inside it with no problems! New print looks so much better than the old one did. I’m redoing the IS calibration now as there is still some ringing on it. I need to redo PA as well as it seems I read the wrong value from the last test. Nice part with IS calibration this time, I’m doing it hot since I’ll pretty much always be printing hot filaments on this machine.

Also need to remember to move where I’m printing the test cubes at for the next print… the NPA in the middle of the plate is starting to become non existent. Lol

Especially since I shouldn’t be able to remove the print with bed still at temp. LOL

New X

New Y. Gonna run this one more time with the toolhead adxl

Ebb36 results

I think we'll try the ebb36 ones next

We're gonna use smooth ei for both however.

Accels for this print (gonna do PA first still)

[pine delta]

@bright aurora I know I’ve slowed this thing way down but. 22 minutes for a standard Voron settings Voron cube is not bad at all.

[chilly flicker]

I guess for printing you get diminishing returns from the speed after a point (in a way), but tuning gets exponentially harder?

[pine delta]

Tuning does get harder. But I was having consistent issues that I couldn’t pin point. So I decided to go ahead and slow everything down and switch from AWD to 2WD. This printer is meant to be my most reliable printer to mostly replace the Bambu X1C with. So when I was having issues I decided it would be best to tackle them by going simpler.

[chilly flicker]

I was actually happy to see you changed to 2WD because now you are pretty much building a printer that i was planning as well 😅 i almost got a Bambu lately, but been going more towards a reliable / quick enough diy printer instead

[pine delta]

I mainly switched because of noise. I think the Nema14’s I was using were just not great for sound. These krakens are a lot quieter

I might switch back to AWD in the future though. I do love the krakens. LOL

[chilly flicker]

I guess no-one will hold it against you 😂

[pine delta]

Though. It probably helps I’m not using 5160’s anymore as well. 2240’s now. And I desperately want Z back on them. My Z moves are so loud now on 2209’s. Lol

I only have 4 2240 drivers. So I’m missing one more to put Z on them as well. I also need 4 more for the v0 rebuild so I’m planning to order 5 in the near future

[pine delta]

Well, here we go again. The fourth gantry change on this printer.

[pine delta]

Original build was ATSS nema14 2WD. Then scope creep happened before I even had motors on it and it became ATSS nema14 AWD. After about 50-100 print hours I decided to change it to ATSS nema17 2WD with krakens. Now as we’re approaching and passing 250 print hours I’m changing it for the new R2 Trident gantry. I suspect in about 6 months I’ll likely be transitioning to SB as well. It seems I’m slated for a near stock trident R2 at this rate.

[bright aurora]

damn theres already a r2 upgrade kit

[pine delta]

Yep! 🤣. I shouldn’t be too surprised. @tawny meadow seems to be associated with West3d at this rate. Lol.

[bright aurora]

what if he is West3D

a secret operative

[pine delta]

I would not at all be surprised at this point. 🤣

Hmmmmm… 🤔 https://west3d.com/products/voron-stealthburner-sb-high-temp-carbon-htn-nylon?_pos=2&_sid=8030e3389&_ss=r

What if I also went with Hartk 2 piece pcb and 16 wire umbilical… good lord I really am going backwards on this printer. 🤣

It started with a bunch of mods, not one thing stock minus XY joints. And is very slowly turning into stock trident. 🤣

[tawny meadow]

in this case, the call came from inside the house

Steve shared key changes with vendors a while back so they could prepare

I am a west3d helper and print partner and help with their booths often, it’s a fair guess

[pine delta]

You do great helping them!

[hollow hemlock]

https://tenor.com/view/ah-shit-here-we-go-again-ah-shit-cj-gta-gta-san-andreas-gif-13933485

[hollow hemlock]

It will be interesting to see the difference between 2wd and R2. Was wondering if I should wait for the gantry to make it's way to v2 or go 2wd

[pine delta]

I’ll take a final IS graph from both the ebb36 and Carto before I take it off.

[proven sapphire]

What are you hoping for from the new gantry, if anything? Just trying it out?

[pine delta]

Nothing much. Just something new. The shorter belt path will be nice however.

[proven sapphire]

Current parts are metal, right? Should be quieter with plastic.

Belting with r2 is too easy now. I don't like it. No sense of accomplishment with that anymore.

[pine delta]

Metal and printed parts yea. ATSS metal plates on top and bottom and then printed middle sections.

I’m printing the R2 gantry with PCCF as well so still no worries about heat.

[proven sapphire]

Nice! Yeah, I don't think you'll have any issues. All the parts are pretty well tested on this release. I didn't use the manual, but don't tell AVP that... everything seemed obvious enough from the design

[pine delta]

I think I’m gonna use the manual because I realized while investigating what I actually need to change I actually missed a couple steps… 😅

[proven sapphire]

Oh definitely use it; it's still a good sign when the design is made such that you really don't need a manual,, where things only fit together in the correct way.

[pine delta]

You know the Z rail stops in trident? Yea… I don’t have any of those. 🤣. Didn’t even see it in the manual for both the tridents I built.

[old viper]

@pine delta You must get a microwave buzzer and set it to do its tune when a print is finished

[pine delta]

Who’s to say I don’t already?

[old viper]

Now the bigger question... does it play the distinctive microwave hum while its printing?

[pine delta]

Probably could. Lmao.

If you count the CPAP blower then yes. Yes it does.

[hollow hemlock]

https://tenor.com/view/keyaan-john-wick-keanu-reeves-gif-2384046765437701795

[pine delta]

Booting it up to take those graphs right quick.

[pine delta]

ATSS 2wd with krakens running 1.4A 36v with UAP toolhead.

This is the before swap to R2 gantry

[pine delta]

@hollow hemlock There's the before for you

I will be changing to the R2 gantry with live idler xy joints

[hollow hemlock]

Thank you will have to take a look when I get home.

[pine delta]

Gantry parts all printed!

[hollow hemlock]

ABS GF?

[fervent zephyr]

PCCF

[hollow hemlock]

Ooo very nice. I can't remember is PCCF considered better than PET or pretty good without the need to anneal?

[fervent zephyr]

Uh, depends. There are a lot of compounds that technically can be called pure PC, and they vary wildly in print conditions and performance.

No annealing with PC though

[hollow hemlock]

Oh gotchas. Guess if I decide to mess with PC in the future after my PET adventures I'll need to ask what is good XD
(let's hope just under 300c is going to be good enough on the hotend lol)

[hollow hemlock]

That's a plus

[fervent zephyr]

Should be fine for either

[pine delta]

So uh. I have no idea how those graphs are so good. I’ve found so many loose screws on the gantry. 🤣

[pine delta]

@tepid egret Sidepack access. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

Peak efficiency!

[hollow hemlock]

https://tenor.com/view/neat-thats-pretty-neat-smile-gif-14911905

Got a little window too

[pine delta]

The window is for the webcam. Keeps it out of heat.

[hollow hemlock]

Oh.... that's a really good Idea that i need keep in mind for my build lol

[pine delta]

It was Wheels idea. I just had the advantage of a sidepack so said screw it and threw a porthole in the top panel on the sidepack. 🤣

[hollow hemlock]

Wheels always coming up with some big brain idea.

Which camera are you using?

[pine delta]

A $15 1080p 30fps camera module off Amazon. Literally no brand name. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

Like it? Been conidering the one Luke sells

[pine delta]

I do. It’s pretty similar to the one Luke sells. But way cheaper quality. 🤣

[hollow hemlock]

So the camera will explode! Nice, got a link Xd

[pine delta]

Current status:

[pine delta]

It has a gantry!

[hollow hemlock]

no loose screws this time?

[pine delta]

Not after finally opening my first help ticket to figure out why my belt tension wasn’t cooperating…

[hollow hemlock]

Well that's not good, did you get it sorted?

[pine delta]

Ya. Belts are now properly tensioned and gantry is properly deracked

Both belts at 2.8 as well.

[hollow hemlock]

Dang, very nice!. The gantry looks good IMO. Need to get myself some long shaft motors, IDK why like the look lol

[pine delta]

@raw sorrel What’s the HE fan wire path supposed to be?

[pine delta]

We have part of a toolhead! Just not feeling it for building today. 😅. Also ran out of tiny zip ties so gotta wait on Amazon order tomorrow. And I ordered a thin glass fiber sleeve to run the fan wires in. They were getting a little toasted with how I had them before. I’m gonna run them a little differently and sleeve them in glass fiber to avoid further toasting. (The long white wire at the bottom is the PT1000 in the hotend)

[raw sorrel]

I just ran it past the hotend under the fan

[pine delta]

Alright. That’s kinda what I’m gonna do this time. But in a glass fiber sleeve cause the way I had it before it was getting toasted. Lol

[raw sorrel]

Yeah I sleeved them individually with fiberglass. Could also just solder new ptfe wires on but either way works

[pine delta]

I like the fiberglass idea. Lol. Only mine will be all 3 in one sleeve.

I’m just happy to finally have a PT1000 in the hotend. Plus the new EBB36 has a working MAX31865 chip (in theory) vs the old one that I may or may not have shorted to 24v….

[pine delta]

I need to remember that I have a usb hub now. I can finally wire up the usb keystone on the back. Lol

[old viper]

tis a sad day when one runs out of zipties in the size that you need

[pine delta]

The stuff I need to finish reassembling the toolhead has been delivered. It won’t be till tomorrow evening that I work on that though.

[pine delta]

Or not… Amazon delivered a neighbors package to me and not my package. And they are making me wait until tomorrow after 5pm to actually do anything. Stupid

[bright aurora]

Just remember the 3 W's

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/halo-master-chief-71

[hollow hemlock]

5pm? freaking what?

[pine delta]

Yep. Making me wait an entire day to “see if it will show up”…

[bright aurora]

https://klipy.com/gifs/master-chief-up-up

[hollow hemlock]

That is super stupid. Big dumb. But maybe you'll get lucking and find it at 6am. I have had that happen before. Might have actually been 5... it was really early

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/aww-cute-78

[pine delta]

Luckily. A neighbor brought my package back! Still pissed at Amazon.

[hollow hemlock]

That's a good neighbor. I'd still be mad at amazon too lol

[pine delta]

Toolhead wired

And I’m at a pausing point again. I need to flip the printer for the next step and I’m not doing that today. Lol

Depending on how much Y movement I have after I get it on again I might go ahead and increase the Y bumpers length a smidge. I’m still too close for comfort on the wires going behind the gantry.

[hollow hemlock]

Very nice, a lot neater than mine lol. (Revo wires too shot to be nice)

The toolhead looks so cool though

[hollow hemlock]

I feel that lol. In a similar place with mine 😭

[hollow hemlock]

Do you have physical bumpers? Thats a good idea.... You could try sleeving the wires into one and do that to help prevent snagging. Still a risk but at least no loose bit can het caught. May allow for the wire to be pulled closer to the X

[pine delta]

Yep. Physical bumpers indeed. Adjustable in CAD as well.

And there is no risk of snagging. I just don’t like that the rear corners the wires can bump on the motor mounts

[hollow hemlock]

Got a link for those 😂 plan on switch to the monolith y endstop or the A joint. Maybe it will help me not crack my xy joints again

[hollow hemlock]

Ah gotcha. Thats reasonable

[pine delta]

Nope. Cause it lives in my CAD. 🤣

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/dog-crying-meme-doggo-crys

[pine delta]

I took the standard Y endstop, removed the cavity that holds the endstop, made a divot for the second screw, then just extended a section on the front the amount I wanted to reduce Y by. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

Oh gotcha. Seems like a pretty simple change

[candid ferry]

@pine delta im confused how you attached the corner parts of the skirt with the 2040 frame pieces

[pine delta]

I did something funny. I sleeved the CPAP control and power wires with the glass fiber sleeve I got for the he fan wires. Lol.

[pine delta]

These ones? One screw in extrusion end and one in the slot iirc.

[candid ferry]

i figured it out thank you is the sidepack E-bay and print area seperated by 3d printed panels? on your printer

[pine delta]

In my case yea. I didn’t wanna disassemble the frame to install panels I hadn’t purchased yet anyways. Lol

[candid ferry]

im in the same boat

i realized mid build i should have installed them

[pine delta]

I had purchased them yet. And decided I didn’t want to. Lol

[candid ferry]

do you have the files available ?

[pine delta]

I have a plan for replacing them soon with ACM and printed mounts for the ACM.

[pine delta]

Nope. It lives in my fusion. Mainly because I messed up on the design and I’m not reprinting.

[bright aurora]

This reminds me did HexDents cad even get finished lol

[pine delta]

Never. Lol

[bright aurora]

Guess once HexDex is done i gotta make my own lol since im 100% gonna want my own HexDent

Maybe 500x500

[pine delta]

Current status: upside down

[hollow hemlock]

Sleeved cables always look so much better IMO. What is the other set of thicker wires?

Side note, so tamped to do CPAP and change my toolhead again when I get chube XD

[hollow hemlock]

Going for a zero-G build I see

[pine delta]

The four behind the sleeved wires? That’s the CANbus umbilical to the toolhead.

[hollow hemlock]

Ohhhhhh!... running them outside the printer is a good idea.... The more I mess with my printer the more I realize I need to cut my panels

[candid ferry]

in that case im working on my own mod for non printed panels that can be put in after assembly

[pine delta]

I have a plan already. But thanks!

[hollow hemlock]

Which plates are you using that are bare? I can't remember and I'm totally not looking at the west3d sale

[pine delta]

West3d

[pine delta]

Currently out of the 250 ones though.

https://west3d.com/products/west3d-flex-steel-heavy-duty-blank-build-surface-plate?variant=44397941784788

You could try #mandala_roseworks-🇺🇸 ‘s firethorn blank plates.

I’ll probably be getting one soon to try out with the carto.

Since supposedly I won’t need the faulty regions with it.

[hollow hemlock]

.Aww not on sale

[hollow hemlock]

Is that because it's thicker or something?

[pine delta]

I was told because it’s a different material. 🤷. It’s actually thinner than the West3d blank plates. The blank firethorn are 0.65mm thick and the West3d blanks are 0.8mm.

[pine delta]

I’d be kinda surprised if they did go on sale. They are dirt cheap. Lmao

[hollow hemlock]

True enough lol. I just like saving monies XD

[pine delta]

You’ll save money by buying a blank plate.

[hollow hemlock]

Oh interesting... different spring steal maybe? IDK I'm no metal knower guy

[pine delta]

Agreed. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/big-brain-markiplier-3

[pine delta]

Just putting this here so I don’t forget. Recirc fan moved to skr mini e3 board on fan1 and rear bottom thermistor moved to TH0 on that board.

[pine delta]

It has a bottom panel!

And it’s upright again!

[hollow hemlock]

I still really need to finish my printer skirts...

[hollow hemlock]

If i ever get a Trident I'm modeling after this. Looks so good

I think a nice sealing door would be cool. Similar to clicky clack.

[pine delta]

I’m designing one atm actually. Lmao. 1010 extrusions though.

[old viper]

doubted myself for a second if a door was already installed

looks clean so far

[pine delta]

It’s not atm. I have K3 style door. Currently not installed during the upgrade process.

[old viper]

no exhaust at all?

[pine delta]

Nope. CPAP blower is in place of the exhaust and I have a second exhaust cuttout on the left side of the printer that has a stealthmax S smart mounted on it.

[hollow hemlock]

I think that is fine. May look a smidge wonky, just because different thickness but think it's going to be neat. Could even match the side pack to that thickness and really get that microwave look

[pine delta]

It will fit perfectly actually. Lol.

I don’t like the thickness of the fridge door. So I’m designing a micro fridge door.

Not mini fridge door. That’s 1515 extrusion. Micro fridge door. 1010 extrusions.

Just a wee baby

Door (minus any printed parts or panel)

And I have successfully printed and tested this hinge already. I still need to design a latch.

It’s basically the mini fridge hinge. But meant for 1010 extrusions and working with the 2040’s. So the frame part holds a pin stationary. And the door part has a bushing in it.

All components I have on hand. Since I built the mini fridge door for my v0.

[old viper]

Would you need to worry about the rigidity of it if you're using 1010 extrusion?

I get that there will be a panel going presumably in the slot to help with rigidity but would that be enough?

[hollow hemlock]

Ooo, very cool. I like it. Think you'll do something similar as clicky clack for the latch or something else?

[candid ferry]

howd you keep to power supply from sliding down

[bright aurora]

Friction or screws lol

[pine delta]

That is the plan

[pine delta]

Which one? The 24v and 36v ones are on a din rail. And the 5v one is totally not VHB’d to the upper panel.

[candid ferry]

24v

[pine delta]

UHP-200-24. It’s on a nice dual UHP mount on a din rail mounted to the Y extrusion and the bottom extrusion. The mount itself has a few screws that lock it in place on the din rail

[pine delta]

I will have a panel in the middle, and corner reinforcements. The reinforcements will be printed though of course. I’m not super concerned at the moment with rigidity though.

The thing that makes this all possible. Is the fact the slot in the extrusion is 3mm wide. Which is the exact thickness of the average panels we use. 😆

[old viper]

Zip ties! (Now that you have some)

[pine delta]

Nah. VHB ftw.

[pine delta]

Reminder to self. Motor plugs with silver facing me and wires to the left. Black red green blue

[pine delta]

Getting closer to first moves with R2!

[pine delta]

Belts look good

2.8 on pf makes meter with epdm belts

[bright aurora]

Whats that peak for? lol

[pine delta]

The 60hz one? No clue. Whatever it is is very loud. So if I care I’ll be able to fix it easily. Lol

Yea... that needs some work...

[bright aurora]

Possibly

[pine delta]

I don’t even know where to begin with that… we begin by running it again with the THB accelerometer

[pine delta]

Why's it always Y with the issues? Look at X

We went from 17k to 24k

[bright aurora]

Idk

[pine delta]

That's... that's even worse....

[bright aurora]

How just how

[pine delta]

I dunno. Lmao. I’m probably just gonna use the old settings on Y and print for a while. New belts and all.

Better. It may just be the umbilical

Gained about 2.5k accel on Y

It’s very nice looking though

Currently thinking im gonna wait to print on it until i mount the door in designing.

So it’ll be another week or so before I’m printing again.

[pine delta]

For this graph I was holding the umbilical the whole time

[lean panther]

I wonder if the swing arm could help with that

[hollow hemlock]

Intersting. I wonder if the tube to CPAP is what is causing some of that issue. I need to do some similar testing with my "free hanging" umbilical, but could be vibrations "echoing" through the tube.

[hollow hemlock]

May be a good idea. The metal one is nice

[pine delta]

Pretty sure it’s just badly placed zip ties. Lol.

[pine delta]

Look really closely at the back. Galvanic arm is already there.

[hollow hemlock]

So... more zip ties!!!!

[pine delta]

Or less zip ties

[hollow hemlock]

No zip ties, just shoe string

[pine delta]

Corner brackets and all 3 hinges. Designing for using 3mm thick foam and 0.5mm squish on that foam.

I have 0 clue on how to do the latch…

[bright aurora]

Magnet lol. Or just a clamp

[pine delta]

Magnet could work. I just don’t like the idea fully.

Could go with a friction clasp thing maybe.

I might be able to copy @simple rivet ‘s doom latch… hope Hartk doesn’t mind much

[simple rivet]

Do it!

[pine delta]

Oh good. Since I’m already in the process of that. 🤣

[simple rivet]

Really tho If it's something I posted that means do what ever you want with it 🤣

Change the logos, make it ugly ,make it better , modify it to your heart's content , I don't care in the end

[pine delta]

That’s good. Cause it’s gonna be ugly. 🤣

I think these will be a perfect fit

[pine delta]

Welp. I will have a test part about 30 minutes before I have to leave for work. Let’s see if I’m even close to having a latch.

[pine delta]

I put the X1C on ludicrous mode. I'll have a bit more time to play with it that way

[bright aurora]

If only you had a machine with 6 steppers that could do it even faster.

Unless its a brittle filament or smth

[pine delta]

Prototyping is always PLA. Lol. But Hexdent is still offline cause no power cord.

[bright aurora]

Fair enough then.

[pine delta]

AINT NO WAY I JUST MADE THE LATCH ON THE FIRST TRY! Bruh! It’s nearly perfect! Thanks @simple rivet for the excellent design to work off of.

A couple hole size adjustments and it should be golden.

Will also need to actually build the door to verify it works nicely on the printer. But in hand. It’s

The 4mm diameter 5mm length magnets are perfect as well. There’s tons of force pushing it closed.

I’m just so impressed by this

[bright aurora]

And idk why but now ive got an idea for my next Machine after HexDex

0 clue why this gave me it

[pine delta]

Cause it’s that good of a design

[bright aurora]

Ykw fair enough but its littlerally just HexDent (no sidepack) but 500x500x500

Maybe

I know i want a massive machine but idk if ill use it

[pine delta]

I’m just. Sitting here wondering how my 30 minutes in CAD resulted in a nearly perfect door latch. Lmao

[bright aurora]

Good question

[pine delta]

I’ll use mine more when I actually rebuild it and it has a proper enclosure. Lmao.

I need to figure out how to do the chamfer into fillet trick to make those parts more printable…

This thing is really coming together now

I need a total of 17 of the 25 t nuts that makerbeam sells in 25 packs. I'll have extras if I need to change something

Just a few operations to make this door. Lol

The only thing I can’t test until I have built the thing with the latch is the frame side part of the latch. Need to be sure I did the fillet’s right to have it push the latch in while closing correctly.

It feels like it will work just fine in hand. But that’s in hand.

[bright aurora]

Lol. As I just went and did some vacuuming I was wondering if IDEX technically would be more worth it for support material the larger the machine/print is

For cleanup times, IDEX 100% would change faster easily than a MMU at sizes like that

[simple rivet]

Nice! That's awesome

[pine delta]

I’m a little surprised at how strong these tiny magnets are… I almost wonder if 2 is enough… oh wait. I can test that.

Yep. Just the outer 2 sets is plenty. Don’t need 3 sets.

Heck. Just one set is plenty. Lmao. I may just use all 3 anyways. Not like I have a use for these magnets.

[bright aurora]

And im learning people are making a modpack to have the Graphics and building style of satisfactory But the top down 2d-ish and Gameplay of Factorio lol

[bright aurora]

They are surprisingly strong

[pine delta]

They are 4mm diameter 5mm long cylinders. I don’t even remember why I ordered them. 🤣

[bright aurora]

Lol

[simple rivet]

Mf nano uses them

[pine delta]

That would be why I ordered them

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/neato-butters-stotch

[weary shoal]

Once you get one with the ThornGrip surface, the thickness is 0.85mm. And they do block the magnets of a magbed from interfering with beacon or cartographer.

[pine delta]

With the surface is unfortunately too expensive for my budget. So it will be a blank plate.

[weary shoal]

The blank plates block the magnets as well. And you can literally print anything with the ThornGrip surface. I have a bunch of people trying to get them to fail, and the FireThorn prints everything that's been thrown at it.

[pine delta]

I think you might be missing the main point I’m making here… I cannot afford to buy the plate with the firethorn surface. I can afford to buy the blank plate. Which is what I had planned for a future pay day.

[weary shoal]

Understood. I was just putting out details and info. What surface are you planning to use? PEI?

[pine delta]

Just good ole NPA on the blank steel. It’s been my favorite thing to use. I love the surface finish of the blank steel plus the ability to nozzle probe while at print temp.

[versed obsidian]

i pulled the PEI/adhesive off an old beat up sheet in advance of trying this out. howmany prints are you finding the NPA holds before you need to reapply?

[pine delta]

30-40 for me

[pine delta]

Hey look. Door!

Well. Door frame. Lol

Holding it up to the printer shows me that I am very happy with this choice.

[lean panther]

I require pics :3

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/scourge-thor-ragnarok

[pine delta]

That’s the only pic I have of the door atm other than the CAD. So have the CAD.

Slightly out of date photo since I changed the corner brackets to have 4 screws instead of 3.

The part I was most concerned about was cutting the extrusions. Turns out. The $30 mini cut off saw from harbor freight works perfectly for makerbeams (not xl. Regular ones are 1010). Cut through them like butter.

[pine delta]

Oh. And I’m gonna test the first iteration of the door latch. But I already have plans to change it out. I have a better idea for it to make it way less bulky.

[pine delta]

Threw together a quick test for a new mechanism for my door latch. I like it. (It’s very rough)

[round shale]

I'm looking at this animation and I have 0 clue what part is supposed to be door and what part frame, or how this latches

[pine delta]

It’s more of a mock up of my idea to see if it’s feasible. The top part would be the part you move to pull in the bottom part which would be the latch. I promise it will make complete sense by the end of today.

I would have worked on it already but body said “EAT FOOD NOW” with aggression

[pine delta]

Some very slight adjustments and the first version will work

Ignore print quality. Prototype prints are done with PLA on the X1C on ludicrous mode.

Doors on the printer now though. Which is near. No panel yet obviously. Lol. But hey. Door! 😆. I’m gonna make the corner brackets a bit larger. The door flexes slightly too much still.

I plan to remove the 20mm wide foam tape from K3 door and put 10mm wide foam on the door itself.

@round shale @hollow hemlock Prototype works!

Needs to be way bigger. But it works! I know now how to scale it though.

[hollow hemlock]

Looks good! Like the much bigger latch handle from the other one TBH. Also do you plan on adding magnets or spring for it to auto return?

[pine delta]

Magnets repelling each other will be the spring. Lol. This was just a prototype for me to learn my space constraints and how big I need things.

Right now. Too small. Lol.

[hollow hemlock]

Ah gotchas. Figured that may be the case but was curious nonetheless . How big are you thinking it will need to be?
Clicky Clack latch size?

[pine delta]

No clue. But I’ll play with it and see what comes out.

[round shale]

wait, but couldn't you just have ignored the linkage, and then it would have been one piece

[hollow hemlock]

Could also do 2 latches, but then again that would be more annoying to open. Unless you had like a master latch and the other linked.

That would be excessive unless using a really thick foam that needs to be conpressed

[round shale]

just that the actual lever you pull works the opposite way now

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/that-is-boring-tom-ellis

[round shale]

haha, yeah

for fun I guess

[pine delta]

The idea is that pull the handle towards the door with a finger, while your thumb is pulling the handle on the door. Pinch it together, to release the door.

[hollow hemlock]

Oh so there will also be a handle? I thought the lever would be both the latch and handle. That makes a lot more sense lol

[pine delta]

This part would be mounted on the frame. It only makes sense in my head right now.

I may also explore other mechanisms for this ofc.

[hollow hemlock]

Depending on the rebound, I can see that maybe catching. But that's what chamfers are for I guess

[pine delta]

Like I said. It only makes sense in my head. 🤣

[shell sleet]

Great work! Could you share the design for this door? I'd like to adapt it for my printer. Thanks.

[pine delta]

Possibly. It’s going to be a while before that happens though.

[pine delta]

I just thought I’d share my totally safe and not a rats nest of AC wiring.

3 PSUs and an AC heated bed… Lots of power going around.

[round shale]

This does not spark joy

[pine delta]

It doesn’t spark at all though! 😆

[round shale]

you need some of those PTFIX blocks they be real nice

[pine delta]

Expensive though. Lol

[round shale]

couple bucks a pop 🧘 not awful considering you only need... 3

or if you get lucky like me, you order 1 and get 10

this way it's much cheaper

[pine delta]

Plus shipping and then I have to redo the wiring… again. Lol

[round shale]

yee but it's worth it

[hollow hemlock]

I see nothing wrong here.
(Also are we not supposed to use ferrules with wago?

[round shale]

we are infact not

you can use them but it's not recommended, and WAGO wants you to have a very good crimper that specifically makes square crimps, if you do

they are designed to take bare wire

[pine delta]

Nope. Technically you can but you need quite long ferrules for that

[hollow hemlock]

Interesting, the ones I have I had to actually cut down a bit for them to fit 😂

[hollow hemlock]

Mine to squares, got it for other terminals, but if im not supposed to/need to read requirements, ill put that off

Need to get my buck converter anyway

[pine delta]

Panels have shipped for the door!

[bright aurora]

Doors have paneled for the ship?

[misty furnace]

we need to get you some ptfix blocks they be life changing 😂

they have replaced wago as my lord and saviour

[pine delta]

Hey look. DOOR!

I can’t believe that I actually designed something that works. Lmao.

[old viper]

Door latch video when?

[pine delta]

Needs a small adjustment

[bright aurora]

Looks like for being the first revision still really good. Also whats the X1C making

[pine delta]

At the time of that video… I don’t remember. Lmao. Might’ve been an experimental latch idea I had.

[bright aurora]

Lol

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/nice-south-park-1

[candid ferry]

looking good!!!

[pine delta]

Thanks! Can’t wait to get it printing again.

[hollow hemlock]

speed benchies for DAYS

[pine delta]

Nah. This printer isn’t my speed printer. Lol

Literally a stock gantry even.

I know I posted IS graphs here. But I don’t wanna call it the after rebuild graphs until after I get some print hours on the belts and fix my umbilical. Then we can call it the after rebuild graphs.

[pine delta]

Updated latch

[hollow hemlock]

Works better than my door I have to actually move the lever to shut it

[pine delta]

Mine hasn’t had that issue. But before updating the latch, I had to push on the door for it to latch. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

Will be interesting to see how the charts stack up once fixed up

[pine delta]

I think I need to make a very slight adjustment to make it have a very slight bit more squish. Like. Less than 0.5mm more of an adjustment. Lol.

[hollow hemlock]

I think clicky clack is supposed to, but I'm guessing my magnets aren't strong enough that I used. I'll eventually make changes and print a new one probably. get some op magnet from KB3d

[hollow hemlock]

You mean to compress the foam more?

[pine delta]

Yes. I think the foam isn’t compressed enough which makes the door rather not sealed. Lol.

[hollow hemlock]

Ah gotchas. Going to try a thicker foam or change some stuff in the print?

[pine delta]

Just the print. I do think I should change the foam out for something softer. But I don’t have 10mm neoprene foam.

I have 12mm and 20mm.

[hollow hemlock]

Are you not using the neoprene type stuff? or is it that it's too thick? (sorry brain is running SLOW XD )

[pine delta]

Too wide. I forget what type of foam I’m using on the door right now. 😅

I need to order 10mm neoprene.

[hollow hemlock]

Oh gotcha. also doesn't help my brain defaulted to "thick" and not width... FFS today is a day already.

For foam the better am I right? Wrap around the edges and totally not cause any issues at all

[hollow hemlock]

Where did you get your's from? I'm needing some more to redo my side panels... the top one's tape sifted

[pine delta]

In this case. I want 10mm wide to match the extrusions. I don’t want it to hang over any. Lol

[pine delta]

Amazon. Have to specifically search for neoprene and double check the description if you want it specifically. Surprisingly hard to find the thinner you go. 12mm wide is easy to find and works fine on panels. You just see a bit more of it.

This link is neoprene. https://a.co/d/0cNAVtZX

[hollow hemlock]

It's going to make it look quite slick.

[hollow hemlock]

Might be a case of the wider stuff can be used on doors, windows and other stuff

[hollow hemlock]

And I guess you mean check the description to see if it actually says neoprene?

[pine delta]

Yep. Link above is neoprene though. I’ve ordered it a couple times. Lol

[pine delta]

Okay. Well that’s neat. Even with my 5mm bumpers I have for the wires going behind my X extrusion to be safe. I have gained ~5mm in Y. From 250mm to now 255mm.

[pine delta]

Hehe. First print since the rebuild! Still using the old input shaper settings until I actually get that Y graph pretty. But this is gorgeous! ~16 minute cube. Just my general use settings. Chamber got to 56c in about 30 minutes. Never timed K3 door so who knows. At least we know the door works!

OH! And that chamber temp was achieved with just 2 6010 bed fans. No other fans or cheats were on (or even installed right now)

@timid arrow The above cube is from that spool I told you was soaking wet… the squiggle looks wet, the cube is not. How odd. Lol

[pine delta]

And there we have the after! Honestly not bad for a stock R2 gantry with UAP!

@hollow hemlock

I actually gained 1k accel over ATSS!

[pine delta]

X gained 5k accel, Y gained 1.2k. Not bad!

[obsidian cairn]

Nice!

[pine delta]

Guess I’ll set up the new accels and IS in config and slicer and see what comes out of it. Lol

[austere sierra]

Nice, thats a decent improvement.

[hollow hemlock]

What is the "smooth" ones?
That's freaking awesome though. Wonder if hte extra 1000 comes from not having loose bolts

[pine delta]

Kalico bleeding edge

The extra accel comes from the shorter belt path. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

I didn't even know Kalico had a bleeding edge version lol.

And oh gotchas. Makes more sense.

[bright aurora]

Yep still exists from when it was called Danger klipper

[hollow hemlock]

Danger Klipper² Guess the new bleeding edge is the testing version?

[bright aurora]

bleeding edge is just obsolutely 0 limits. kalico just used to be called danger klipper

[hollow hemlock]

Ah gotchas. I thought that was the whole thing with Kalico in general. But I do remember them changing the name and stuff.

[bright aurora]

Kalicos just improved really does have danger options to remove some limits but bleeding edge is to the extreme

[obsidian cairn]

Bleeding edge is also not useful for probably 70% of people

Just before you go flashing it. Also makes shaketune take WAY longer since it has to calculate for twice as many shapers/smoothers

[pine delta]

Not really. Also to note. You can switch between BE and regular anytime with KIAUH. You don’t need to flash your boards again.

[obsidian cairn]

You have a Cm5 lol

Pi4/CM4 it takes a hot minute

[pine delta]

Ran it on CB1 as well. Never really noticed a difference.

[obsidian cairn]

I’ll have to time it sometime. I swear it was noticeable for me

I’m surprised you even got shaketune to run on a cb1

[pine delta]

I’ve never had an issue with shaketune on cb1. Running the speeds I like on the other hand…

[obsidian cairn]

I had to find a way to hold the xt30, it kept mysteriously wiggling itself loose post gantry upgrade

[pine delta]

Microwave 2.0 here used to run a CB1 until I started pushing speeds. Then accels started outdoing what the CB1 could reliably handle.

[hollow hemlock]

I tried using KIAUH to flash my Octopus... didn't work at all. Had to go and pull the SD.

https://klipy.com/gifs/dog-crying-meme-doggo-crys

[pine delta]

I’ve never used KIAUH to flash boards. Lol.

Just to install Kalico, moonraker, mainsail, and klipperscreen

[hollow hemlock]

I thought you were supposed to match versions with Kalico and Klipper. Does BE vs normal on the MMU not matter?

As long the the version number is the same

[pine delta]

It hasn’t for me. But afaik newer versions of Kalico require a re-flash.

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/dean-winchester-supernatural-58

Guess I better put away the installer.... sad

[hollow hemlock]

Hm, interesting, may dig into that more if I can remember to. I know when I updated to a new version like a month ago now it wanted a full reflash, at least to insure it worked right.

But I suppose BE vs standard would mostly be on the mainboard

[pine delta]

Bleeding edge is just the regular Kalico plus some extras. IMO. It’s worth at the very least trying out the smoothers and seeing if they work for you.

[obsidian cairn]

Kiauh is good at usb flashing, doesn’t really do CAN flashing if that’s what you were trying

[hollow hemlock]

Nah, it was USB related. Just didn't take for whatever reason. My Pi is connected over USB to the controller board. I said MMU because brain being dumb. The MCU is what I meant.

[hollow hemlock]

The extra smoothers would be nice. The more options the better lol

[obsidian cairn]

Oh, fun fact when I do flash in with kiauh, usually have to do the octopus twice

First time only kicks it into DFU. The second one takes

[pine delta]

Just keep in mind. They don’t work for everyone and can produce weird results

[hollow hemlock]

As it seems to always be the case lol.

[hollow hemlock]

Interesting.... Maybe next update I'll try it again. I think I tried running it more than once in a row but we shall see

[fervent zephyr]

I'm running kalico and my thb is still flashed (from factory) with klipper

[hollow hemlock]

That reminds me i never updated the toolhead board only the mmu and pi 🤣

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/bond-living-on-the-edge

[fervent zephyr]

when it gives me an error rather than a warning, I'll reflash lol no big deal

[pine delta]

Don’t update Kalico on the pi. It will error

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/think-about-it-use-your-brain

[hollow hemlock]

Dont listen to xiar, update it, live dangerously!

[pine delta]

Just noticed. The new IS shapers are actually one tier better than previous. Nice! Both before were smooth_ei. Both now are smooth_mzv.

New accels in slicer for the test print

New cube timing. This is 3/3/3/15.

And new SCV as well

[pine delta]

Couldn’t be happier. Definitely needs a PA and EM tune. But I’m happy.

Quick PA calibration. Gonna do 8k, 10k, 20k at 300 and 600mm/s to setup adaptive PA

[hollow hemlock]

Are the "smooth" ones better than the normal ones?

[hollow hemlock]

This will be interesting to know the outcome. If it helps or not. I was told you can also disable PA for bridging which seems nice. (At least based on the issues I have with bridging lol)

[pine delta]

Sometimes. Not always.

[hollow hemlock]

Ah gotchas. Seems to be the usual thing lol.

[south spire]

I have never used adaptive PA, would you say it is an improvement?

[pine delta]

No clue. I calibrated it, and then I’ve played video games instead of printing since. 🤣

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/well-waiting-2

[pine delta]

@south spire @hollow hemlock Did the first print with adaptive PA. Saw 0 difference. Guess it works.

[hollow hemlock]

Hmm interesting. What did you print?

Been wondering if it would be good for super small or large areas. Seems kind of a, "it helps maybe sort of sometimes"

[pine delta]

Another part for the wire spools project.

Only thing I have right now is the fact I need to up my cooling (easily done since I’m only using 30% of my CPAP right now) or play with overhang speeds again.

[hollow hemlock]

Perhaps it's will help with finish or maybe just on more complex stuff. (Side note, kind of want to print off mega spool XD Put some random cable on it lol )

[hollow hemlock]

That a byproduct of setting up the adaptive PA?

[pine delta]

I started printing the second big spool. Lol. I will note. The big spool holder can also be a filament spool holder. There’s a filament spool corner option for it. So you could just use it as a spool holder.

[hollow hemlock]

I can see the overhang speed being different, accelerations too maybe? Maybe it helps with high speeds and accelerations... But cooling I'd never guess

[pine delta]

I think it’s a byproduct of increasing accels from 5k to 8k for outer walls. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

OOOOO, that's a neat idea. Been using a DIY dry box set up though. Could be nice for storage though TBH, I filled up an air/water tight box with all my filament... who knew how much space they tool up and how freaking heavy they get XD

I can't remember did you ever post a link of the project? Morning brain morning...ing

[hollow hemlock]

Oh yeah, that will do it. 😂

[pine delta]

Yeee. But…

@hollow hemlock ^

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/keanu-reeves-thank-you

[arctic moat]

Does this plate work with pet-cf, pps-cf and pps-cf? Does it need glue with these?
Thanks

[weary shoal]

Works great with PPS-CF and PETG. Raw PETG is recommended to have a release agent like a glue stick but the PET-CF shouldn't have that issue.

@arctic moat

[arctic moat]

Ok, great! And I assume ppa as well since nylons are supported?

[weary shoal]

Yep, there's a link on the product page to willitstick testing site. Shows all the filaments that are successfull on the FireThorns.

[arctic moat]

Thanks very much. I see I made a mistake in the original question. Was supposed to be ppa- cf, not pps twice lol. Will be picking one up to try.

[pine delta]

I have the SB front prepared for the new SB build going on here! (Yes the led wiring was incorrect in that pic. I have fixed it already. Lol)

[pine delta]

Laid out all the parts since I am delayed by switching desks atm

[smoky viper]

Ah, did you get one of the black diffusers? They look so clean on a black body SB.

[hollow hemlock]

Decided to switch to SB and ditch cpap?

[pine delta]

Mostly to use the Chube Compact in this printer. But also cause I want to play around with things.

[pine delta]

Indeed!

[hollow hemlock]

Oh gotchas. Surprised you didn't opt for A4T v2 or I've seen some other crazy looking heads

I will say though a textured SB looks slick

[pine delta]

I have a r3men 5015 from our @obsidian cairn and a berserker 4010… it will perform crazy well.

[pine delta]

It’s all ambrosia PCCF

[hollow hemlock]

I used the 5015 berserker in mine. Not sure the difference in those vs r3men, but it was a fair upgrade.

[hollow hemlock]

Looks really good. I'll have to give that a try sometime. But I opted for PET GF and already have two spools of it. (I thought I'd have chube sooner so already popped one open. GF has a nice texture to it.

[pine delta]

My compact was supposed to be delivered Saturday… then Monday…. Now it’s Tuesday.

[pine delta]

It’s a 5015 on crack. 🤣. Even is a 4 wire fan so I have tachometer and more fine control with the pwm wire

[obsidian cairn]

Could be worse, Keith’s still hasn’t shipped lol

[pine delta]

I saw. It’s so unfortunate

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/same-office

[hollow hemlock]

It will be there soon i believe!

[hollow hemlock]

Oh thats pretty nice! Might look unto those if i opt for a different tool head myself

[fervent zephyr]

I'm convinced you got mine

[obsidian cairn]

Mine now!

[pine delta]

Mine arrives today!

[pine delta]

366 days later and it has arrived!

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/87-years-1

I'm only a little jealous 🤣

[hollow hemlock]

Which nozzle are you going to be use?

[pine delta]

Probably the random plated copper nozzle I test fitted in it

[hollow hemlock]

Gasp, not using this as an excuse to buy more things!? Unfathomable

[pine delta]

Money is finite. Lol

[hollow hemlock]

WHAT!? Heresy! Money grows on trees and 3d printer stuff is more important than water

https://klipy.com/gifs/space-marine-you-speak-heresy

[high haven]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1042716301426180178/1357396195361951844/12333.gif?ex=6ace60b8&is=6acd0f38&hm=46168b612d5768a3a53fc3027006a196a4026b5b6406deeb5cb55df78e2bb758&

[pine delta]

In preparation for redoing the electronics I have made a proper PSU mount for these PSUs and added them to the CAD. I love how small they are. Lol

[pine delta]

It took 12GB of ram but I got the M8P in there...

That fucker has its components labeled.... Holy detail batman

Look at this thing?!

[old viper]

What PSU's are they and what are they for?

[pine delta]

Sketchy PSUs (mostly in price tags) and there’s a 36v one for motors, 24v one for main electronics, 12v one for the stealthmax, and there will be a 5v step down converter for LEDs off the 12v one.

That's enough work on the CAD for today me thinks

From the rear as well

And yes. I’m going to put the PSU’s in the front and the electronics in the back. I’ve thought about it for a while and decided this will be the easiest way to wire up the passive toolhead board.

[dusty abyss]

I still want a 5V PSU

[pine delta]

I would love to add a fourth PSU that is 5v but I really want it to be the same layout/style as these I’m using. Lol

[old viper]

What wattages are the PSU's?

Im assuming not much based on the size of them

[fervent zephyr]

would one of these fit in a switchthread? asking for a friend

[pine delta]

So I just double checked the listings to remember for sure. All three are rated at 150w passively cooled with the 24v one being rated at 220w with active cooling and the 36v one at 180w with active cooling.

[pine delta]

I think I can fit 2 in the v0. Eventually I’ll find out.

[bright aurora]

https://klipy.com/gifs/microwave-lulnotfrench

[round shale]

yeeaahh that why I ctrl-A yeeted everything but the bare minimum last time I worked on something that needed the model

it's an insanely detailed one

[pine delta]

I’m keeping it all. 😆

[round shale]

🛌

[hollow hemlock]

Sketchy as is pulled right from a microwave!

[smoky viper]

Do vertical oriented DIN rails end up being a challenge with the bracketry, everything clipped on wanting to sag down under gravity?

[pine delta]

Nope. If the brackets weren’t snug enough I could put the screw in that pinches the rail to the plastic.

[pine delta]

That screw

And for the most part. Nothing slides easily.

Even if it did. Just CAD a din rail lock. Lol

[pine delta]

And because I don't hate myself enough... I just added the rest of the cable ducts I'm gonna need.... I hate myself already

[pine delta]

I have added the SSR as well as a mount for the SB breakout board. Just want to the SB breakout board in the CAD as well and can’t find one…

[smoky viper]

They make everything look/feel so much more professional though, worth. Just hide away all my wiring sins, for real though it bridges that gap for me to where it feels like I'm cable managing a PC.

Super efficient feeling layout for routing a passive

[smoky viper]

I more meant the compknents mounted to the DIN rails, but the cable ducts alone will definitely do a lot to keep everything in place, once its all wired.

[pine delta]

Still quite a bit to add but yea. I’m liking it so far.

[pine delta]

I finally did something!

[bright aurora]

Mmmm pccf

[pine delta]

That latch does not move easily… slightly concerned but also not super concerned. I think it will be fine.

[bright aurora]

Should be

[dusk crest]

It’s fine. Honestly, I stopped using the latch when I had stealthburners, just powered load and unload.

[pine delta]

Yea. Thats not entirely my worry… you notice that spot where it’s no longer fuzzy skin near the tension screw? Thats from my screw driver being used as a pry bar to pull guilder out…

[dusk crest]

Ah. Meh, it is abrasive filament. It will wear in

[pine delta]

That’s my thought too. Lmao

[smoky viper]

there's always doing some figure 8 patterns on some 200ish grit sandpaper to correct tolerance technique? Only thing that really bit me with SB was the dang heat-set in that tension lever, I think I didn't melt it in hot enough and instead of tension being translated all the way through, it was just slowly yielding the dang heat-set insert out of the plastic.

[pine delta]

Imma just let it self clearance. Lol

[smoky viper]

That's what I'm explicitly cautioning against . If the tension knob is acting in the slightest bit wonky, first thing I'd inspect.

[pine delta]

You probably don’t want to look inside the UAP toolhead currently….

[smoky viper]

Suggestions of warmth, tension, and consistency are only good in ROMANCE NOVELS!

[dusty abyss]

its PPS-CF, if it gets warm enough to have the heatset move then its on fire

[pine delta]

Mines PCCF…

[dusty abyss]

eh I mis-remembered close enough lol unlikely to deform at chamber temps

[pine delta]

@dusk crest does pps-cf

[pine delta]

There it is. The SB.

[pine delta]

Still need to assess what else I need to print so SB is stored down in the bottom of the printer for now.

I know I’m missing the endstop pod and the transition for the X chain to the Y chain.

[smoky viper]

I'm surprised you're going full printed with it, figured you would do a CNC mount. And conventional endstops?! I thought you were a big sensorless advocate?

[pine delta]

I am getting annoyed that I have to home before I start a print otherwise the print fails because it failed to home the first time.

[smoky viper]

Valid, hard to beat the reliability and simplicity of microswitches if they're reasonable to implement. I tried sensorless and ended up going back, got enough to tune in, microswitch goes click.

[pine delta]

Kalico sensorless saves many a headache. Lol.

Especially if you use 2240’s.

[smoky viper]

Oh? Maybe I'll try it again down the road, really liking the feature set on the octo pro you recommended. Jumpers for the diag pin instead of clip it off or leave it is a nice touch. I'm going to try kalico when I get into building out the software.

[pine delta]

Hello there @lean panther

[lean panther]

2240 mentioned

[pine delta]

You know that’s why I’m going passive toolhead right? To have a 2240 for the extruder.

[lean panther]

Yes

[hollow hemlock]

passive toolhead?

[pine delta]

No mcu on toolhead board. Just a board that passes wires through for easier connections. 16 wires to go back to the main board.

[hollow hemlock]

Ah, gotcha

[pine delta]

Basically. I want only tmc2240 drivers. And the only way to do that is to use a passive toolhead board. Because unfortunately, NOBODY carries the stupid SB2240 anymore and I’m so ANNOYED by that.

[dusty abyss]

since we are talking 2240s
Can anyone confirm 100% that the right rref for BTT's TMC2240 is 12000?

[hollow hemlock]

Is there a particular reason as to why you are going all 2240s, even for the extruder?

Suspect this is where some of my own knowledge is lacking

[pine delta]

Because all the rest of the drivers already are.

[pine delta]

I’m 90% sure yes. But I’m not home to check and I am pretty sure I actually shut down microwave 2.0 last time.

[hollow hemlock]

https://klipy.com/gifs/okay-sounds-good

[pine delta]

Yep. Microwave 2.0 is offline on tailscale.

[dusty abyss]

fair enough, I just couldn't find it documented anywhere at all

[pine delta]

Mostly it’s due to me already using 36v for the X and Y motors, then @austere sierra ordered a bunch of the drivers which made me order another couple to put Z on 2240’s which only left out the extruder so well uh. We have no choice now.

[pine delta]

My GitHub still had the old config when just my Z was 2240’s. It is 12000

[hollow hemlock]

No kill like overkill am I right? 🤣

[round shale]

not really sure this makes for a good reason but if you want to do it, why not I guess

i'm expecting difference between 2209 and 2240 for an extruder to be 0 though

[pine delta]

But I get a temperature of the extruder stepper driver. 😆

[bright aurora]

Is that needed tho?

[pine delta]

Absolutely