#Microwave 2.0
2225 messages · Page 3 of 3 (latest)
Total print time on this guy is equal to ~220 hours on the X1C.
@fleet zephyr I love this thing. Maybe I don’t need to think about switching to monolith. Lmao
Atleast wait for monolth cnc befofe you decide anything
Ldo is cooking on an awesome kit
I could. But I was thinking about a printed gantry cause the metal just makes things louder. I was considering going to monolith with 2 krakens to run the printer a bit quieter. The motor noise is my main issue right now.
Insulation helps keep the sound in!
Yea. I plan to insulate a little at some point. However it’s not likely to help as much with the PC door. Lol. And I’m not changing that. I love this K3 door.
I’m hoping that switching to 2240 and 36v will help a bit with the noise. I’m fine with the CPAP blower. It’s consistent and not very loud. Just like having a fan on in the background.
Yes well. Some of us like aesthetics more than others. 
a metal box is pretty nice 
I’m annoyed with the panel clips to the point I plan on designing my own versions. 🤣
So yea. Safe to say. I prefer aesthetics and I will keep to that when I do insulation.
Current plan is 1/2in ceramic wool with a ACM panel in front and behind it. Should fit in the sidepack frame so won’t increase the footprint of the printer any.
Looks solid to me, if it’s good as is then I say keep it lol
I mean. 10k on Y IS isn’t bad for a 250. Lol.
Can still see the magnets despite the massive faulty regions around them. Lmao
Really thinking beacon is a next upgrade kind of thing. Shouldn't need the faulty regions that way
Or just do a mesh with beacon touch. Lol
beacon is quite wonderful, I run my printer once a month maybe and its always dead on
I think I’m using like 70mm squares around the magnets. Maybe 80mm… lmao. There’s not much of the bed actually being scanned anymore.
Okay I'm back home now, so I'm looking at motors wires and drivers, I have most of everything else figured out, may need a better idea of belt length just to be sure I have enough
You either need 2 2.4m closed loop belts from KB-3D or probably 6-8m of belts from anywhere else.
If its $10 a meter than itd be $1 per 100mm
Since 1Meter is 1000mm
Iirc
Let me double check
Yeah thats right
Okay so it's $5 a meter lol
No. I don’t think west3d sells closed loop
That would be open loop that you are buying
Yeah I don't need closed loop
Closed loop is nice though
Yeah but the sizing and what not, just beyond me lol
Oh you just cut the belts
It isn’t an actual closed loop on the printer
Lol okay that makes more sense
It just means that you got a straight cut of the tube instead of a spiral
So you get a lot less belt walk
And belt dust
Overall a lot nicer. People say it lasts longer but belts last so long anyways unless you are running insane tension
@pine delta do you have the files available for the skirts and display cowling you used in your microwave side pack build?
Uh… not handy atm. 😅. I know I posted something somewhere though…
Check these. I dunno if I put everything in there though. Been a while since I looked at that. https://github.com/Xiar1/Voron/tree/main/Microwave2.0/mods
They just love to be inconvenient. 
hey sorry to bother your again i just really love your build
what gland did you use for the side pack?
PG9 I think. I’d have to check the printer though
@pine delta do you have a link for uap for voron belts?
I do not. I custom made the X carriage I’m using.
Ahhh thats why i couldn't see it
I’m using the v4 body (I think) with the v6 x carriage parts. But I took the holes for the belts and flipped the tooth location on them in cad.
How much did you gain when you switch to uap
I dunno. I never had anything else on the printer. Lol. It was built right from the beginning with UAP.
It looks cool as well 😎
@pine delta what length din rails did you use
Standard length for a trident 250
Going to be working on this printer soon. Will be swapping from nema14 AWD to nema17 2wd. Gonna use krakens and run them at 36v with a 30t pulley.
Still going to be running the ole ATSS sheet metal gantry as well.
I have ordered ATSS nema17 and 30t pulleys!
Why?
Because I like ATSS and it’s on sale and in budget.
No swapping from AWD to 2WD.
Oh! Cause these Nema14’s are quite loud, AWD is kinda getting annoying on the printer that needs to print all the time, and considering I’m going for more reliability over anything, I’ve decided it would be more worthwhile.
Can't argue with that
Not to mention that since I’m planning on slowing it down a lot. It’ll be nicer to run with smoother motors.
Id expect just bambu speeds but bit more due to flow
Ehhhhh. I’m thinking for now just running on the defaults in orca for a Voron.
Thats really slow.
Like I said. Looking for more reliable from it. I’ll probably bump up the speeds a bit eventually. But for now I’ll just be happy with reliable.
If you gotta go that slow for reliability smths wrong
Gotta start somewhere for improving it. Might as well start at the defaults. Right now I can’t get consistent quality from it. I start getting that and I’ll start speeding it up a bit. It’ll still be on 36v and have krakens so not like it can’t. Lol
Yeah that should still be pretty speed capable
But. We’re gonna run it for like 50 print hours with just the defaults to make sure everything’s copacetic.
Dont know what that word Means lol
Everything’s golden. Lol
I learn new words when listening to books then wanna sound fancy. Lol
Existing as the world’s loudest printer. 🤣
Is it really That loud?
I only use it a max of a few hours a week for a reason. Lmao
Guess you need @misty furnace to make the TMC5262s so you can use the better Stealthchop
Or is it the fans?
Combination of everything
The HexDents chamber dosent seem to be that soundproofed lol
Doesn’t help I don’t have a chamber. Lol
Ah i think I've found your issue
Which toolhead is that? A custom one? If it isnt, could someone send a github link to it for me to check out?
There is no github. Best way to find info on it is on monolith discord. That is where the main active chat for it is. There is also the old fiberstream chat in armchair but that is long dead.
I remembered to order 6 pin microfits for the krakens! 
Hehe. Old 1504 nema14 on the right. New 3004 nema17 on the left.
And the pulley upgrade to go with it. 🤣
this is going to be weird
Also going from AWD to 2wd. lol
yeah that will be fun
I think it will be better overall for print quality too. No more dealing with AWD sync.
Huh… so that’s what happened last print on the microwave 2.0…. The filament snapped. Lmao
Went to unload it before disassembling half of it and well. What do ya know? It wasn’t an extruder issue after all. Lol
Well that explains why the filament broke… the galvanic umbilical holder snapped.
I had the same thing happen recently lol
First motor replaced with a simple idler!
We don’t even need double shear anymore. 🤣
Gonna slap the toolhead on and stop there but. SUPER SMOOTH MOVEMENT! Hooray!
Belts are tensioned to 2.5 as well.
ooh, very nice!
Also. UAP is removable in one piece. 🤣
Thanks! I’m hoping this will help for more consistent print quality. Going from AWD nema14 to 2WD nema17.
And my biggest concern has been alleviated. Plenty of clearance from those big shafts.
My belt path is also shorter technically over all now. 
Tomorrow’s plans. Reassemble the panels, wire up the new motors, remove the UHP-48, Make and print an adapter for the cheap 36v psu I got off Amazon, mount said 36v psu, test said 36v psu to verify it is outputting 36v, wire to the M8P, and then finally boot up the printer, edit the config for 2209’s on Z and 2240’s on X/Y, and get back to printing hopefully! I highly doubt these krakens at 36v with 30t pulleys are gonna struggle to do 600mm/s at 30k accel even with just like 1.5-1.6A of run current. Lmao.
Right motor thermistor is TH2 and Left motor thermistor is TH3
Amazon cheap PSU installed and we have 36v! Looking good!
Rear panel installed and CPAP reconnected. Now just printing a new galvanic cause my old one apparently snapped. Lol
ITS ALIVE!
This is probably the funniest part about it. LOL
Underglow is back too! 😆
@soft zenith Look! I got it back online! Not printing yet but that’s tomorrow. Now you have to get your printer working too!
im building a uart cable as we speak lol
Nice! I kept finding spots where I needed zip ties while I was finishing up the umbilical. Lol
I’m off to sleep. Where hopefully tomorrow we get a print going on it!
What made you decide to ditch the AWD?
Noise and simplicity. No longer need to AWD sync every print.
Should be quieter while printing now as well.
Makes a lot of sense lol. Didn't know there was a sync that had to be done either but makes sense.
Another plus is you can have a door! 😂
It’s always had a door…
Yea. With AWD tension is often not equal on both sides of the pulleys for each motor set.
Thought it was the one without one. Brain is mushy today XD
That sounds like a pain, I see why you'd want to make it more simple. I guess now your set up would be considered the 2WD variant? I think that's what I saw it called.
That’s Hexdent with no chamber currently.
Been looking at so many projects I can't keep up with which is which apparently. 
This one I think is still my favorite aesthetically
Mine too. Lmao.
Not bad
Probably should figure out why theres a giant bump on Z...
For reference this was the old AWD nema14 graph
And something very wrong on Y...
OH! 30 SCV. 🤣
Better accel recs now. Lol
Actually its higher than with AWD...
AWD was 13860 and 2WD is 14400... for X anyways.
That's better as well
First print since the new gantry install started!
Y is down 4k on accels. But that’s fine. I wasn’t planning on going as crazy right now anyways. Lol
Well first print looks like I either have an extruder problem or my filament is soaking wet…
Actually… I wonder if it’s my ptfe tube… it was hard to get the filament past one spot in particular.
Actually my filament is 100% soaked… LOL! Just did a test at open air extruding. It extruded 100mm at 60³ flow with no issue.
graphs are looking very clean, nice
8500 for a nice clean graph like that is really good
Got any clues on X? Perhaps just retest with toolhead board adxl?
Looks like either a retest or a toolhead issue
Maybe ask ingstronmentalist about it if it persists
Eh. I’ll retest and then live with it if it’s still there. 🤣
It could be a configuration thing with your particular setup
The toolhead board and a couple other things could be messing with the center of mass
I should check my XY joints for loose screws…
Oh yeah definitely do that
There should be a cheap atss xy joint
They are the stock Voron ones but Mgn12h instead of MGN9H. Lol. But I haven’t rechecked them since building.
Can’t use it. I have Mgn12h linear rails. V slot frame.
Oh weird
Was v slot all you had at the time?
Otherwise I’d had Vitalli live idler XY joints. Lol.
I guess you could switch to mgn9 when you get that new frame
Garage sale Fabreeko sidepack frame. Was like $60. Lol. Normal sidepack frames are $300+
New frame will belong to #1309948210160205834
Oh that is a deal
Oh ok. Makes sense. Spend the money on the flagship of your printer fleet
It’s the biggest printer I own. And also currently kinda the ugliest. 🤣
Hopefully not for long
Kinda doubt I’ll be buying the frame in May now. Since I needed a new monitor for my pc and well. That money is now already spoken for. If I get lucky I might order it.
A triple paycheck month
Indeed. Next one is October. So if anything I’ll probably do it then.
Tell yourself that the money is “extra printer money”
How’d you read my mind? 😂
Normally those 3 payday months are in fact printer money. But uh. My monitor has been doing this a lot more lately. So it’s been replaced/upgraded with a newer version and is currently the secondary monitor instead until it permanently dies.
Okay. And funny thing with my wet AF ABS. You could see it drying it while printing thanks to it being in the chamber. 1) Stealthmax S Smart kept having increasing humidity readings. 2) The 2 prints I did improved with time. Lol
I see that too, with Dueling Zero, which has dual internal spool holders. By the time you're a few hours into the print, the quality improves noticeably when the filament starts wet. For years I didn't even dry my filament, but now that Monolith Zero has an external spool holder, the PrintDry is back in action. Took too many crappy prints to realize it was just wet! Internal spool holders spoil you like that.
I think for me it ended up becoming a combination of wet filament and not printing fast enough… silly Goliath long af meltzone things. Lol
Long hotends are longer springs. Printing fast and at a constant speed has been working well for me lately.
The surprise for me is that with sparkle filament, you might not notice the effect of wetness on side walls, and then bam, top surfaces look like crap with apparent over extrusion.
You can probably tell which one had wet filament!
Lol
Yes. Yes I can. 🤣
I might heat the chamber and just leave it to sit for a day. See if that helps the filament (chamber can get to around 60c) before I start diving into my hotend/extruder for a potential issue. Or ask the peeps in #slicers_and_print_help cause after that I have no clue what’s going on.
Chamber is currently just sitting idle at 50-55c. Just gonna leave it to continue to heat up or just sit at that temp for a day to dry out the ABS spool inside. Lol
Do you have an air fryer
If not you need to fix that for non printer reasons, but they also work great to dry filament
Always need an airfryer no matter what
I really don’t need one. I almost never need to dry filament. It’s just that I took the spool from the objectively dry chamber and put it in the floor while it was storming for 3 days while I changed gantries. So it’s either wet or I have an extrusion problem.
Right now for the rare occasion where I need a filament dryer I’m saving makerworld points to buy a Bambu labs HT AMS. I’ll be getting it completely free in the end. LOL
It worked! Chamber sufficiently dried the ABS spool mounted inside it with no problems! New print looks so much better than the old one did. I’m redoing the IS calibration now as there is still some ringing on it. I need to redo PA as well as it seems I read the wrong value from the last test. Nice part with IS calibration this time, I’m doing it hot since I’ll pretty much always be printing hot filaments on this machine.
Also need to remember to move where I’m printing the test cubes at for the next print… the NPA in the middle of the plate is starting to become non existent. Lol
Especially since I shouldn’t be able to remove the print with bed still at temp. LOL
New X
New Y. Gonna run this one more time with the toolhead adxl
Ebb36 results
I think we'll try the ebb36 ones next
We're gonna use smooth ei for both however.
Accels for this print (gonna do PA first still)
@bright aurora I know I’ve slowed this thing way down but. 22 minutes for a standard Voron settings Voron cube is not bad at all.
I guess for printing you get diminishing returns from the speed after a point (in a way), but tuning gets exponentially harder?
Tuning does get harder. But I was having consistent issues that I couldn’t pin point. So I decided to go ahead and slow everything down and switch from AWD to 2WD. This printer is meant to be my most reliable printer to mostly replace the Bambu X1C with. So when I was having issues I decided it would be best to tackle them by going simpler.
I was actually happy to see you changed to 2WD because now you are pretty much building a printer that i was planning as well 😅 i almost got a Bambu lately, but been going more towards a reliable / quick enough diy printer instead
I mainly switched because of noise. I think the Nema14’s I was using were just not great for sound. These krakens are a lot quieter
I might switch back to AWD in the future though. I do love the krakens. LOL
I guess no-one will hold it against you 😂
Though. It probably helps I’m not using 5160’s anymore as well. 2240’s now. And I desperately want Z back on them. My Z moves are so loud now on 2209’s. Lol