#hardware-archived
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a lot of people do, and you can order stuff 3d printed 😉
maybe I should just order one and try. i also have (as plan b) a wled ring (16 RGB pixels), but that still misses a sensible case 😉
why not using something like gu10 directly
that would also work, of course, but the "stick it directly to the wall" formfactor of the Ikea halvklart would be attractive to me. think like the stuff inside the house in the home assistant logo, only lighting up 😉
Was wondering if I could get some other perspectives on zwave/ZigBee controller hardware. I currently have a hubzb1 manufactured in 2015. As my controller and it's working fine. It handles both protocols.
I was wondering if upgrading for the newer zwave/ZigBee standards is worth it? If there is an obvious reason to do so I'm open to upgrading I just can't think of one. Any inputs are appreciated. I would need to buy two sticks and repair all my devices so I'm looking for a good reason to do this before pulling the plug.
ConbeeII is good for zigbee
I was looking at that one, I just don't know if the newer ZigBee version on the stick offers anything that makes it worth unpairing and repairing, I may have to ask this in the ZigBee/zwave channels but I didn't want to spam chat.
here there is some info about Zigbee https://development.libelium.com/zigbee-networking-guide/introduction
read the pinned posts in zigbee
Will do, thanks
@thick oriole checked them out but besides the firmware being older and the chip being older I was asking more if I am missing features or losing compatibility by not having the most up to date firmware. I am looking for a valid reason to either flash my controller or more probably go through the hassle of replacing it. I think that may be a better question for the other channels so I will take it there. Thank you for the help.
Hello, has anyone been able to flash tasmota on a Shelly PLUS 1? It's the ESP32 version. I can't seem to connect to the chip via serial. I connected GND, VCC, RX and TX but it seems there is some procedure to setup the device in flash mode but I can't find it.
#diy-archived might
any good product that i can use as a wall/touchscreen for HA? with a build in sensor for movement, that goes stand by and power up when somebody is near by?
Tablet + motion sensor
any good tablet for a reasonable price/quality ?
Does anyone know of a Zigbee ceiling light with backlight similar to this one? I would like to have an area lamp with bright light - but with a (coloured) backlight as an option. Both with Zigbee, of course.
@grave idol Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Synaptic: Many people seem to use Amazon Fire tablets. The larger ones have a very decent display, and there is some guy who 3d print wall mounts.
That is probably the way i will go.
Anybody able to advise me on hardware towards a HA assisted home alarm system?
@terse lichen motion sensors, security cameras, and indoor and outdoor lighting is where I would start
question to all: if you could retrofit Shelly’s in all the switches or plugs in your home (with neutral wire), would you? Or would you opt for connecting zwave switches or smart devices (i.e., bulbs)? Why?
does anyone know of a Home Assistant OS compatable long range bluetooth dongle? I am looking for one with a good external antenna to hopefully get the extra bit of range I need
DOMEbusta: I would go shelly (again): I've got Shellies in 80% of my switches and lights now, and they work very well.
I find WiFi much less trouble than Z-Wave (tried fibaro switches too). WiFi is also easier to debug if it breaks, in my opinion.
Also the shelly integration is very good (i am using vendor firmware, no reflashing to tasmota or esphome), it is really integrated perfectly.
Shelly is also rather cheap, but still a quality product. Their firmware is well thought out (eg devces have a timer, e.g. to limit a doorbell ring to 2 seconds at firmware level if you want.
Only downside with shellies behind switches: the problem that swiches don't change position when switched from the shelly and notnthe physical switch. Especially problematic with double switches: You switch off one frommthe computer, and now you have to switch them either in different directions or have one extra dead step, to bring one switch back into the right position. I have chosen the latter, because double switches switching in different directions drives everybody mad. Shelly has a setting for this choice.
Of course going Z-Wave or Zigbee does not solve that problem, only going to momentary switches/buttons does.
I prefer smart bulbs, in my opinion easier to upgrade later on (especially given I’m from australia where you legally need an electrician to do electrical work) plus I can then change the colour temperature or RGB (if I get RGB bulbs) and brightness a lot easier
MadMan: also don't forget the less traditional presence detection methods: if a light switch is toggled, there is a high probabiliy of a person in the house. Don't know if criminals are careful not to use light switches.
They’re probably smart enough to just use their phone or a torch given they’re very cheap (or just use moonlight/ outside light).
Also in case you didn’t know, doing username: doesn’t do any ping or anything on discord, and usually isn’t needed in a continuous conversation like this
I thought too much pinging is bothersome in here, it is intentional
You can reply without pinging (eg what I’m doing now) and without putting their username in either
Ok. I have smart switches and smart bulbs behind them in some places btw (for colour), everything has its pros and cons. With shelly switches you cannot have smooth dimming in and out but only on/off.
Are you allowed to have sockets with no physical off switch? Or do you toggle the actual power of the socket each time
Yes, we can have switchless sockets, there is a RCD and fuse somewhere of course to switch off in an emergency.
What i am struggling with most at the moment are childrens lamps on a cord. If i switch the socket or use a smart bulb, switching off with the inline cable switch makes it dead. Probably have to swap those for shellies too.
Anyone know any mini rgb bulbs with a regular E26 socket that work with HA? Something this size https://www.amazon.com/DOGAIN-Changing-Compatiple-Dimmable-Equivalent/dp/B0919ZTZ19 (these don't work with HA)
Just use esp32s
Anyone have experience with Tuya and rtsp streams from cameras? I have followed everything and been talking with their support with no help.
I can get a link from step 7 in this https://developer.tuya.com/en/docs/iot/rtsp?id=Kacsdjcqllyql but when opening it in VLC / FFplay it can't load the stream so wondering if I have done something wrong. I can't test the device supports rtsp because it is H265 and https://ipc-us.ismartlife.me/login only supports 264.
what device? I have a tuya cam also not working and I think it falls under
To obtain real-time video streams of IoT devices through API, the device firmware must be developed based on Tuya IPC SDK 4.7.0 or later.
Shelly has been deploying a new firmware for Gen1 devices yesterday or so, with an Eco mode. Did anyone notice problems with that (while it was still in beta)?
Updating them all, but still not sure if Eco is a good idea.
Hello! here is anyone who has Shelly Light switch ? https://shop.shelly.cloud/shelly-wall-switch-1-white-wifi-smart-home-automation#565
Anybody have a good site/list you like to work from for a home assistant "hardware catalog"? I imagine something that lets you find hardware compatible with Hass, grouped by cloud/z-wave/local wifi/ZigBee and different device types, but I'd settle for just a big list in a fit repo too 😅
You mean the integration list?
But ZigBee / zwave is pretty independent of ha
If it works with your coordinator, it works with ha
As somebody buying stuff in Austria/Germany, in additon to the Integrations list, geizhals.at is my goto site to see what is on the market. You can filter by network protocol, device type, ....
eg: https://geizhals.eu/?cat=hwhafeld
what alternatives are there for a raaberry pi 4 as they are totaly sold out!?
i would like to use the rasberry install if possible
Anything is an upgrade from a pi
A laptop or minicomputer from the last decade is good
And power efficient
And has headroom
I wouldn't say power efficient. 😀
RPI400 are always available, somehow people don't buy them. But they are only in 4GB ram variant
Pfff, sub 50w is a lightbulb
Rpi takes a good 6w with sonoff dongle and a USB mic connected woth 25 odd contianers
I'd just use any old PC you've got lyng around or get for free from the junk. And copy the installation onto a Pi if you want in a year or so (or whenever they are available again). HassOS on a PC does not seem to be very different from a Pi.
i know this is probably a long shot, but does anyone know if you can buy the Shelly products in a physical store somewhere in Bulgaria (as I understood they are a Bulgarian company)?
it's literally cheaper for me to drive to Bulgaria (eg. Sofia) and buy everything i need there than to pay the DHL shipping costs.
@fringe moon do you know of a good tutorial for using esp32? I only need one and don't really want to go with room assistant necessarily as it seems overkill but I will if it's the most reliable. To be clear I am hoping to keep the device_tracker entity reported by HA Bluetooth from being set away
Just stop a Bluetooth Mac sensor from being reported as not_home in HA in the back of my house, sounds like I may as well slowly add in room assistant and track ble addresses though. I just did not want to manually match up Mac addresses with known devices like tutorials I have seen suggest you need to do
Bluetooth is a horrible tracking mechanism
Yes but for some devices it is the best option sadly
Just do leave / arrive scan if you must
Then track based on gps or WiFi connectivity
What is the device?
I would but I don't get gps info and wifi is not always connected. It's an iPhone but the user does not want the HA app on the phone nor do they stay on wifi and I do not want to force any software install on them. Ble and combined normal Bluetooth under the person integration seems the best bet but I. Open to other ideas. Just frustrating because if I had a bit stronger Bluetooth device it would work perfect
Can you track a smart watch?
User does not have one
The person has Bluetooth ear pods but I cannot reliably detect Bluetooth in the very back of the house
Yeah, bt is horrible in range
Yeah, I have a tiny dongle one now, I was hoping to find one with an external antenna to hopefully boost reception range just the little bit I needed
Block off the rooms in the back of the house 
I found a realtek one that has an antenna but it does not work with the HA os image I have on proxmox. I get transmit errors.
Yeah, having stuff connected to ha is very limiting
You could do a temporary step stone by placing the stick on a machine more in the middle of the house
That runs HA and connect the two instances
If it is just the current placement which isn't optimal
I have thought about that, if I am going to connect two instances like that I should probably setup room assistant and get additional functionality though it would be a bit more hassle but be far more useful.
Assuming room assistant runs on esp32's that is
Probably, I've seen no real use for Bluetooth tracking, i have one esp32 running to get some Xiaomi temp sensors connected
I'm looking for a way to install a RTC on top of HassOs (RPI3B+). Cannot find much info on this.
are you asking about a gps based real time clock @void moth? if so https://austinsnerdythings.com/2021/04/19/microsecond-accurate-ntp-with-a-raspberry-pi-and-pps-gps/is a guide for the Rpi. and https://wiki.ledhed.net/index.php?title=Changing_the_NTP_Server_in_HassOS should set the hassos to use a specific NTP source. I setup a seperate Rpi and use it as an NTP server on my network for multiple devices including homeassistant
This is a single PI setup with no ethernet plugged in.
I need it to collect data offline and some time to time someone will go collect data
So a inboard rtc should be used
you could setup homeassistant and the NTP server on the same PI and change the time source for HA to 127.127.20.0 to use the onboard NTP service. by changing timesyncd.conf with HA and NTP installed on the same Pi with a gps module you would have milisecond accurate time with no ethernet required. the same procedure should work with some other rtc source as well
Will work on official hassos ? Since the Os is pretty locked down, some action arent supported
if you modify the filesystem like the guide suggests to change the source it would need to be redone on an upgrade.
Not very pratical..
or you could plug in a USB stick with the customized info apparently according to https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/blob/cbce0f2a2e02ac847998ef3c0944e62a039672c3/Documentation/configuration.md
I just got my Sonoff 3.0 zigbee usb stick. What are peoples thoughts on ZHA vs Zigbee2MQTT?
I already have a MQTT server up and running. Im going to be installing Aqara zigbee sensors. My initial research says Zigbee2MQTT might be better?
anyone get wirelesstag pir sensors to display temperature info?
@fringe moon btrfs question - is RAID5 still advised against?
I'm using ZHA and wish I'd gone with Z2M
I like having everything in one place within HA, but I think Z2M has a bit more flexibility and features (like upgrading firmware OTA of any hue devices you might have). https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/usage/ota_updates.html#automatic-checking-for-available-updates
actually sorry ZHA seems to do this as well 🤔
looks like more of a ball-ache to do it with ZHA though
I went with Z2M. Tested with my aqara remote and it worked well
Well, what do you want to achieve is a better question
I followed the recent Everything Smart Home video about ESPresense. I bought 3 "HiLetgo ESP-WROOM-32 ESP32 ESP-32S". When I flash them I'm having all kinds of problems. First they don't talk to my MQTT broker (might be my network) but if I flash them a second time and clear all user settings they won't even fully boot. Anyone else having luck with ESPresense? I filed a bug at https://github.com/ESPresense/ESPresense/issues/243
#diy-archived can help with ESPs
I flashed a few devices with them to test it out, it worked
If anyone needs specialized cables i have a friend who is shutting down his cable shop after a few decades of operation, lots of discounts and strange cables, but also regular cables, he can probably be helpful work with postage if needed https://www.datakabel.no/
Striking a balance between storage capacity and redundancy.
Nah not enough memory for zfs
Ah for btrfs it is discouraged to do 5/6
Eh or I’ll just take the plunge and buy a sixth disk and set up raid1 btrfs
That way I don’t lose any capacity
Or you could do whatever nonsense unraid is doing
(From what I have now)
I need upgrade my capacity soon too
Pretty keen to stick with Debian
Not looking to replace my OS with some specialised NAS OS
So basically, i want to make my Smoke detectors smart, but i have a few requirements and theirfor need some help finding what I need.
I want them to be a independent system, such as 443 mhz or something (so not zigbee or ZWave what I already have), because i simply don't trust my RPI with my life lol.
Best would probably if the Connecting Station had wifi and could communicate with HA instead of each smoke detector with zigbbee / ZWave.
It also wouldn't be too bad if it at least mostly comply with Germany's regulations with that stuff.
If you know any system that works like that, I'd be really greatful for some help :)
Oh and also if in one room a detector triggers, the alarm should go off in all rooms.
Upgrade to a usable computer outside of a pi and use ZigBee smoke detectors, also they will still alert locally even if the coordinator can't be reached
I have one Xiaomi Honeywell smoke detector, haven't tested it with actual smoke yet though
Can they set off the alarm in all rooms if one goes off?
Cause i got some ZWave ones from fibaro here to test, but you can't manually make it sound an alarm
Anything is possible with automations
I can test with mine
If I can toggle the alarm
With mine i don't get like any way to manually set off an alarm, it's sensor only
I'm looking for a zigbee plug in Ireland/EU, but I'm only interested to measure the power consumption, any recommendations?
Salus sockets do, but also see https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#e=power (just, no Tuya)
wow what price for those Salus 😮
I wanted to do some little experiment with it, but I think I'll hold on for now lol
thanks!
what's wrong with Tuya BTW? bad quality I guess?
They take extreme liberties with the Zigbee spec
That's why they're so cheap then
I wanted to have some automations either when I connect my laptop or when I turn on the piano or some kitchen appliance, but 30 quid or more just for that... Not sure if it's justifiable
Guinnberg: For metering I use the Shelly Plug S, works perfectly, WiFi though
It is really a shame that there are no metering only plugs, without the relay.
does the relay have a big downside? i just put all my plug S on 'auto on after 1 sec' if some wierd thing would somehow have disabled it 🙂
Relays have several downsides: in case of a software glitch they might switch off, they might overheat (most people use metering for washers/dryers, rather high powered devices), contacts might go bad, and they add to cost, size and complexity.
looks like that one is only for EU plug, I could always use an adapter though but...
everything I have up to now is zigbee... what could be the downside of mixing it with wifi?
I actually have 2 I bought like 4 years ago, but I don't even know what brand they were as I bought them just to control them with google home... I might try to see if I can find what they are and maybe they have the energy reading
the only thing I can see is that they're using and app called Seetime Smart, nut no brand or model 🤔
ok, this is the one... but doesn't seam to exist any current integration for it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075ZLDWJZ
😭
Everything with unknown brand has a high likelyhood of being rebranded Tuya
now you say it, they were getting disconnected every now and then... LOL
If they are older they are surely esp based
And can be flashed with Tuya convert to tasmota
I have no idea about those techs, I'll have to research and see what's inside this
thanks for the idea... I was thinking to just get rid of them
My Philips Hue motion sensor has been reporting occupancy for the past 9 hours. I've restarted HA and it's still reporting occupancy both in HA and also in Z2M so it's probably at the Zigbee level. Any ideas? Battery is reporting 96%
Anyone ever turn an old MacBook Pro into a Home Assistant? I might be getting one for free and it would be a lot better than my current RasPi 3. Is it just as simple as setting target disk mode and flashing HAOS onto it as an external device?
Without unpairing it, re-pair it. I had the same issue with the Sonoff motion sensor.
New configuration has helped in my case
Should I be worried about SD card life in a dedicated Pi running raspberry pi OS and docker for zigbee2mqtt and zwavejs2mqtt?
Seems overkill to add a usb SSD for this use case
I can run log2ram and redirect ZigBee logs to it but not sure about zwavejs.
I've been thinking about moving my HassOS Raspberry Pi4 setup over to a HassIO container(s) on my OpenMediaVault NAS.
Do you think this will be a step forward or backwards in terms of performance?
I'm trying to decide if I'm going to free up my Pi for other things by making this change, or add an SSD to protect my SD card.
OMV NAS
CPU: AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 965 Processor
Motherboard: M4A88T-M/USB3
Hi Ron your post is already a few months old and I'm now also planning to use HA for my next house build. As my Zwave experience is not at a 100% I'd also prefer some WIRED bus system that reports its status to HA. Everything I found (KNX seems to be really complicated and super expensive and requires a 1000€ purchase of some programming software but is compatible with HA, Loxone is incompatible with HA, etc.). In short: I'd like any light switches etc. to report their status to HA but I do NOT want to rely only on Zwave or Zigbee to get some lights turned on... Have you found anything usable?
Yop: There is HomeMatic wired, don't know how well support is
Shelly also has wired din rail modules (Ethernet), no switches though
Some people are using indistrial control solutions like Siemens Logo
Beckhof Ethercat 🤣
You can make all docker log go to log2ram, that's the neatest solution, if you set the driver to syslog or journald
Hello I have a question, I have a Zigbee Bridge and i want to conect him whit Homeassistant, I have the add on Zigbee2Mqtt, but i Dont know what i have to do
Which bridge?
The sonoff wireless bridge is... Rubbish, so you should get something else
I think its the sonoff wirelesd
Then #zigbee-archived can help you find better options
Hi everyone.. I just installed "Aqara T1 with neutral" (wiered as Diagram 1).
The wallswitch connected thru s0 and s1 is a momentary switch.
HA 2022.2.6
ConBee II Zigbee USB
Behavior: the light can be turned on and stays on when controlled by Home assistant
but here to the problem:
When controlled by the lightswitch itself it turn on when I hold the button and turns off when i let go of it.
I have read on the internet that when using the aqara hub you should be able to reconfigure the Aqara T1 to be used with a momentary switch.
What I want help with:
How can I reconfigure the T1 using HA to be used with the momentary switch?
you can just trigger light.toggle instead of turn_on/turn_off?
in HA it works work.. but the problem is when I use the wallswitch itself
I Toggle it in HA to "on"... now the Light is off when hold down the button and turns on when I let go again
only use either the "on" or "off" trigger, not both
where can I find the setting for that? Im not talking about any software buttons here but the Hardware momentary siwtch directly wierd to the aqara T1
This question is asked a million times I'm sure, but after reading 10382171 blogs and forum posts, I still struggle to decide.
We have a new electric network (all boxes have 3 wires), and I'm going to get startes with HASS. First step, light and dimmers. I can't choose between wifi, zigbee and z-wave.
The house isn't big, and the floors are wood, so not much interference.
Too much choice!
Wifi: Cheap
Z-wave: no interference
Zigbee: loads of options
There is no right answer
I do ZigBee bulbs and outlets, we don't use switches anymore, i do ZigBee motion door and temperature sensors, for stuff i need to diy i do esphome or tasmota
KNX is really not complicated. Imho it's easier to install than a conventional light switch installation. Expensive maybe - but considering it's Features and value and it's probably ok 🤷
You can get ETS professional for ~700 and home (100 devices I think) for ~200
Yeah I was afraid there's no answer... But a good point that the bulbs and outlets can of course also have switches in them.
I can always create a second wifi network if I'm afraid of interference, and seeing as it's cheap (like shelley) I can always switch to z-wave if I'm not happy
I dropped zwave after a week
Too expensive
No bulbs
Now I have 120+ zigbee devices
Has anyone used lifx-mqtt to connect lifx bulbs via MQTT for HA to manage?
https://github.com/hlfshell/lifx-mqtt
I've had issues with trying to get homeassistant on kubernetes to handle the UDP broadcast
How can I find the radio type? It's a Conbee Zigbee II
I bought the Conbee Zigbee II but it "Failed to ceonnect"
Hello, I still have an iPad mini (1) - but unfortunately it doesn't support the javascript needed for the homeassistant dash. Anyone a idea how to use it anyways?
you can utilize tileboard for HA, afaik it does not use websockets which yours apparently lack
there are a few others too, but this is a #frontend-archived thing
@gentle fossil sounds good thanks, I will take a look at it
I want a couple of door sensors; is it worth looking into Xiaomi devices?
yus
If you're going to have enough Zigbee devices to build a mesh, or everything's in one room, yes
I'm not planning on building a mesh and they won't be in the same room. Would they need a hub?
my aquara door / window sensors have the habit to connect to routers all the way on the other side. but work fine 😄
zigbee needs a hub, yes
Xiaomi are zigbee devices? I didn't realise. I know nothing about this stuff, obviously. 🙂
wifi door sensors? haven't seen these and likely don't make much sense since you'd need a battery replacement every few months
I've read some people only need to replace batteries once a year. So who knows, really.
You need a Zigbee coordinator, yes
See #zigbee-archived though
Zigbee is a mesh network, without (Zigbee) routers you may have a "less than ideal" experience
Good to know.
Do you have a preferred light switch?
Ive tried leviton zigbee switches and zooz zwave ones. I miss the on-device configurability with the leviton zigbee ones
I use aqara double wireless Rockers, ikea on off, ikea symfonisk rotary, aqara single button and a few Philips hue and one five button ikea one
Thx
The Osram/Ledvance rubbery 3-button switches also work (with minor weirdness on the middle button). I like them for their strange design.
Any recommendations for what to run home assistant on. Would include 6-8 cameras 2k resolution (would use sub streams)
as most services and players accept h264 natively I‘d look at the output format of these and decide if you really need a beefy hardware based on these. a rpi4 can pass 8 h264 streams without trouble
h265 is a different story though
just not crossing streams. that's bad
its all transcoding, muxing or piping
Mux me like one of your French girls
@fringe moon ok but remember you asked
FFMPEG: error: muxer does not support non seekable output

So I would like to monitor several 3d printer using a camera connected ideally through POE. I do have unifi setup today but dont have their protect platform so I believe I need to invest in that to get the cameras to work in my setup.
So I was wondering, is there any recommendations for cheaper cameras that I can integrate into HA instead?
The raspberry pi camera, assuming you’re using octoprint
Just get a POE adapter for your pi
Using a UniFi camera on your printer is a very expensive way to go
USA
$1000
Dunno
Not sure
hello guys
I am just wondering if is possible to pair a BT Speaker to HomeAssistant in a RPi4??
Thanks
i need some temperature sensors and some really generic switches (like literally bridging 2 low volt contacts), i only need 2 temp sensors and 3 switches, is it worth it to invest in a zigbee or zwave solution
Vs wifi?
Are you finding wifi is cheaper than zigbee?
A big diff will be your zigbee temp sensors will be battery and your wifi ones would be mains powered
ok so
i need 2 temp sensors at other ends of the house
2 generic switches at one end, and 1 at the other
im not sure thats enough to get a good mesh
wifi in my house is very reliable
battery is preferrable but it aint the end of the world
Not exactly at other ends
But at least though one floor
So I'm not sure if that's a good connection
regulad: probably depends a lot on the size and build of your house. I have tried (and thrown out) z-wave, tried and kept ZigBee and use lots of WiFi. In my not all too large house all three types of radio cannot reach every corner with one centeal decice, especially not my garage and some rooms in the lower floors.
WiFi started to get full coverage with three acess points. Works flawlessly now.
Zwave would work most of the time with a router in each direction, but was too expensive eventually, especially after Ikea and Aqara came to market. Probably would have needed 4 or 5 routers.
With ZigBee i have slightly less reach than Z-Wave (maybe) and still need to add routers to get reliable coverage. I have 5 devices strategically placey as routers, will probably need 1 or 2 more to fill the darkest corners with signal.
@sharp apex with zigbee just get some globes or smart PowerPoints/ switches dotted around and the mesh will work. Wouldn’t need to strategically place it then
Yes, that is a good way to do it, unless you switch off bulbs with hardware switches.
Just leave them on all the time and smartify the bulbs 
I want to have the fallback of working lightswitches when ha is down, at least for now.
You can still use the light switches. The zigbee lights I have turn on/ off with the mains power
Otherwise just get buttons and bind them to the lights and they’ll work when HA is down
I'll probably wait a year or two, until me and my wife are convinced that ha works reliably in the long run, and then uncouple switches from the outputs, and use more smart bulbs to dim/change colours.
wife says to me I dont like using the tablets or telling alexa to turn of lights... she comes home and finds new aqara opple switches every light switch.... I have not had the heart to tell her yet that the switches can be removed from wall and still work lol I will leave that as a surprise..
We only use switches in the bedrooms anyway, and all ZigBee
I even became a contributor to a hacs addon to make the tablets show actual devices icon, but still lol so the opple swithces are fine anyway.
atxbyea: so everything outside bedrooms runs on motion/presence, basically? Zigbee motion detectors?
Just running all lights all the time until he sets the house to sleep 😂
Yes @sharp apex
Downstairs is triggered by Door + motion
Same with garage
And storage rooms
And bathrooms
And attic and offices
Only one that is constant on is currently living room and kitchen
And bedrooms is manual
Adding automation to kitchen and living room Soon
what type of motion detectors do you use? i've got a hue one, and it works, though it is stupid, that after swapping battery you have to finetune the detection area
i also have one from aqara, but i do not use them seriously yet. i think the philips ones are prettier too, important for a device you have to put somewhere in plain sight.
I use aqara for mostly anything
hm, have to try them out in earnest, good to know they work well enough for real day-to-day use.
it probably adds to my pain that the one motion detector i actually use is in a place above stairs where reaching it without a ladder is impossible, and putting up a ladder on stairs is, well ... interesting 😉
maybe it would be sensible to put up two detectors easier to reach instead, now that i think about it. at the time the position seemed so clever to me 😉
I always think putting something out of the way in a hard to reach spot is a great idea until I need to reach it. Then I'm swearing at myself like nobody's business.
what's a decent thermometer that will work in a constantly high humidity environment?
my brother has a terrarium with beetles and the one he had broke and rusted
he already has a smart plug though for it
he could try one of the encapsulated ds18b20 temperature sensors in a small metal tube with the rest of the electronics (several options) outside the high humidity
(no endorsment of the seller, just to show an example, lots of sellers of these)
you can read them with e.g. a shelly device, no soldering necessary, i think
I am guessing the cameras will be mostly viewed in frigate/HA through apple products (safari/IOS app). Recording would be the full resolution and only for motion trigger events. This is for my father who is currently running blue iris on some very old desktop. I would assume the Pi 4 could do this but when I look at frigate hardware recommendations it is to general and makes me think we need to push into more powerful mini PC for 250-300 without the coral
the current temp sensor uses one of these though, and it's completely rusted
You need to buy a stainless steel probe then
Aliexpress stuff probably wont cut it
Also the DS18b20 stuff is probably among the most faked chips out there. it is really hard to get a genuine one
the market is flooded with cheap chinese fakes of the chips.
Esp8266 + i2c pt100 measurement modul + any pt 100 probe
I just got my Zooz Zwave 700 stick in the mail and want to add zwave to my HA OS. Im a little confused. If I use zwave2mqtt, do I also need z-wave js as well? I already run zigbee2mqtt and have a mqtt broker setup.
See #zwave-archived
Oh thanks, some how missed that on my perusal of the channels
so wifi is probably the best choice, do you have any hardware recommendations?
Wifi = not always the best choice ( i see you have already discussed your application, sorry)
Hello! Kind of a noob with this and not sure if I'm asking in the right place, but I was curious about using HA in a server/client type of configuration where a client Raspberry Pi could both stream multiroom audio to a speaker it's wired to, as well as get a temp sensor reading from the GPIO ports and communicate with the main HA "server" computer, or if maybe I'm making a mistake in my concept of home automation architecture in general, since I've noticed that there's basically the one local address for HA when it's set up (which means other instances might conflict?), not to mention how IoT devices will often have their own apps, hubs, etc... (or if maybe I wouldn't use HA for the client at all and there is better hardware/Pi software for the client end of things that would do this and/or they just need to be different devices).
I can't get over the fact that this feels like a dumb question, and that maybe I missed something obvious looking into this stuff, but I'd really appreciate any advice.
Well you would have one HA instance on your server, on the raspberry client no HA is running but you can send sensor data to HA
Multiroom can be done with something like snapcast wich has a interface that can be connected to HA
Wlan and battery are not a good combination for long battery runtime
Esp32 could be a good start but needs diy
I could use a relay but I want it to be discreet
What is the goal you want to reach
I'm trying to make my own smart thermostat using genetic thermostat
*generic
The setup in my house is wacky
Actually
Ok
I just need separate temp and humidity sensors
Nothing else
What should I use then
I need like... 3
On different floors, so a mesh may not be viable
If you want to use wlan, esp32
My garage only gets 2.4ghz, but the rest gets near-full saturation 5Ghz. It's a 3 floor house, and the ZigBee stick would need to be on the 2nd floor. Can I trust a ZigBee signal to go through floors without other routers? My WiFi is pinned to channel 1, so I don't believe crossover will be a large issue.
To sensors most likely not
I would plan to buy a few routers. They cost next to nothing, are cheaper than most sensors.
Of course you can try without first.
So snapcast would be the client OS then, right? But would snapcast (or a similar OS) also be able to send the temp sensor data to HA, or is it just for audio streaming? That’s why I was thinking a “client” HA would be beneficial due to the integrations (not to mention potentially less breaking updates due to them being the same OS)… I’m wanting to do volume control centrally as well but that’s another conversation.
No snapcast is only a software module for music streaming. You could run raspberry pi os on the raspberry clients on wich software packages like snapcast and a something for temperature sensor reading are installed.
Centralized volume control for the snapcast clients is possible
Instead of using raspberrys for temperature measurement, i am only using them for music streaming and i use zigbee for sensors like temperature and motions etc
One reason is, that if you have a audio hat on the raspberry over gpio you have to look if temperature sensors over gpio is still possible, the audio jack of raspberrys is not very good and the zero dont even has one
AliExpress
Ok, this is what I figured so I'm not quite sure of the solution yet. I don't mind the audio jack for my purposes which is why I was hoping for a "client" HA OS option or something similar, but thanks for the info.
I dont know about anyone else but I love the aqara stuff for sensors, especially as the one in my shed 12-15 meters away from nearest router in house works fine.
great brand only issue I have ever had is the aqara cube turning up with a 39% battery in sealed box out of the whole house on their sensors thats not bad 🙂
I am in love with the cube tbh it suits my front room massively, due to ceiling lights, office corner lighting, tv lighting and lamps, enables me to control individual and all from one device 🙂 and then one side to rotate between the scenes clockwise for next cycle and counter for previous..
are you using z2m
Yes
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/z2m-xiaomi-cube-controller/263006 that helps a lot with them
Yeah, I did my first blueprint a week ago
lol I tried and failed my last atempt at a blueprint it sent my wall tablets into meltdown and kept turning on and off their power supply lol, so just switched back to the two seperate automations. for each one 😦
It just made the symfonisk rotary button easier for me
Should do the same for the cubes
yep that blueprint I linked is not mine, but it works flawlessly for me.
Hi all. While I'm very happy with my Aqara temp/humidity sensors I am interested in a specific temp sensor for one location that updates frequently (even if the temperature hasn't changed much since the last check-in). Is there a temp sensor, regardless of zigbee/zwave/wifi that offers either controllable check-in intervals or by nature does this more frequently anyway? Battery life is not a priority for this particular scenario.
diy esphome then
but what is the need for an update if the temperature hasn't changed?
my current temp sensors update semi regularly but only if the temperature has changed by a certain amount. I'm using an automation with my thermostat which includes focusing on a specific temp sensor. Because of that I'd simply like a sensor that updates more frequently even if the changes have been minimal so the furnace can stay more "up to date" on doing its own job.
on that note, perhaps "more constant temperature updates" is less critical and maybe "reporting temperature changes when the noted changes are in a smaller window/threshold" would be a good benefit as well or instead. I think my current temp sensors just have a bit more of a "sway" feeling in them which can cause me to look at my dashboard wondering why the automation isn't kicking in. Thing is, it does kick in, it does work, but hinging it on a temp sensor that feels a bit more pokey overall is where I think I might be able to improve things a bit more.
a wired esp with a proper temp sensor can send updates every second or better
Good thought. I haven't messed with ESPHome at all though. I should look into that and see as it came up a few times.
Another admittedly silly thought that just hit my mind is I have a spare zigbee thermostat sitting around. One of its entities is temperature. In my experience thermostats update their temp far more regularly (I assume due to their role). Makes me wonder if I could slap some AA's in this and leverage that temp entity on it for this case. 😄
sounds like botch
I'm trying to buy some smart switches with no neutral (I live in Ireland) and been looking to this one: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/QBKG22LM.html
But I have a rather complex setup specially in one of the switches:
- There's a switch with 4 gangs, but 2 of them will be controlling smart bulbs as I want to be able to control the color temperature.
- One of the switches controls the light of the bathroom plus the extractor, hence the need of using a switch.
- The last one controls a light I have no intention to make smart on any way, but since I'm messing around...
What could be my choices here? I was told that is better not to mix up smart bulbs with smart switches as the bulbs will get disconnected from the mesh, but not sure how to tackle this particular situation 🤔
I'm just seeing this in a newer model than I showed:
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/WS-EUK02.html#operation-mode-enum-right-endpoint
does that mean that I can set it up in a way that it becomes a non-wired switch (i.e. decoupled)?
Do you mean short the live and switched live for each of the two gangs, so always on. and have other two gangs wired to that Aqara smart switch.
Sounds like it would work, give your wiring some more study, maybe consider using a smart two channel relay.
I'm not too savy on electricity, but no, that's not what I mean
It was related to the previous message I sent, I need some of them to act as an actual switch
But I don't understand what the operation mode is if it's not what I was describing, which actually would solve my issue
Any example of relay BTW? I only saw one from sonoff and looks huge to place it behind the switch, socially with 4 gangs
I think I see what you mean, you want the bathroom and extractor switchs to remain the same. That I understand. If you have full control (on/off) regarding the smart bulbs, why bother. Just leave those always on. Those smart relays are smaller then they look. Space behind a switch is always a constraint.
well.. yeah.. you got a point there LOL
also... I know this is more about electricity than hardware... but I have a single switch for both light and extractor... I guess that wouldn't change anything for me to install the switch, right?
BTW I just found this: https://github.com/dresden-elektronik/deconz-rest-plugin/issues/1816
I guess this answers my question about being able to convert one specific gang to "always on" and controlled with something else... quite interesting actually
It's hard to say without having a look, and where your going with this..
Keep giving it some thought.
ok thanks
hm, stumbled across the Shelly H&T sensor. Battery powered but it sounds like it can be powered by mains. UI has options for updating temp with controllable degree offset (minimum 1.0). Wonder if that would be more predictable than the Aqara I've been using regarding its update/polling behavior.
though looking at photos of the device I have no idea how you'd actually wire it up to be powered by mains...
but it's got a bigger battery than the little button cells that my Aqaras have so maybe battery alone would be acceptable.
Hi, today i had to install a new hassos for my rpi4. So I decided to upgrade from 32 to 64 bit. I installed version 7.4, but now my raspbee is not working anymore. I tried every topic I found in the ha Forum and edited the config.txt but no efford. Is there maybe any other reason why it’s not working? Has anybody the same experience? I would be very glad für some help, because my flat is dark right now
Sounds like #330990055533576204
Or #zigbee-archived if the main issue is resurrecting the raspbee
@pallid lotus iI think they can be powered by Micro USB power supply
If you look closely, there is a micro usb connector
Anyone have any hints on getting tplink plugs to work on the latest version of HA? I hadn't upgraded in a bit, and when I did, I lost my plugs. I had the ip addresses hard coded in the configuration yaml and things were working. Now, regardless of whether I have the ip addresses in the config, or I use the integration, no joy...
Cancel that, sometimes typing thing out get the grey stuff working. added the ip address via the integration rather than discovery, and its working.
@sharp apex yeah - in literally all of the photos I first looked at I never saw the port. Even on a video, it was never mentioned nor was it ever held in a way that I could see the port. I later found some photos on google images that clear as day had it. In another review it sounds like if the sensor is plugged in to mains it won't set a requirement for power saving. Makes me wonder if when plugged in to mains it would literally update to the hub every minute or even every so many seconds. Already ordered one with an ETA tomorrow but kind of anxious to see first hand. If so it'll go fantastic with my furnace automation.
How do you guys know what to choose from? Whta will stay and what will disappear?
For example if I'd get a Raspberry Pi and get some lamps.. how do I know what to choose? There's so many to choose from, and some require their own hubs and what not.. and some have already been discontinued..?
any way to make aqara vibration sensors update more often?
i have an automation where
I'm trying to say "if vibration detected for x seconds" and one shake keeps setting it off
@spare vigil I'm young in the HA game but with the amount of reading I've stumbled across there are certain brands that stick out to me. I've had great luck with basically anything Aqara. They seem established and not some corner Amazon shop. Sonoff is out there quite a lot, Shelly, Sengled, etc. So far those brands stick out to me the most that I tend to gravitate to.
Sup my dudes. I need some help with a question about the inovelli zwave bulb...do I still need to follow the github with the file that they link for open zwave if I use zwavejs?
I believe this is a firmware limitation. There are hacks to get the motion sensors to not report on for 5 minutes (or whatever it is) but I'm not aware of any hack for the vibration sensor.
hello - anyone from the uk here ?
Can anybody help me to light a gpio led when my alarm is unarmed?
@spare vigil in addition to what others have said, Philips Hue and Ikea Tradfri are also lines that won't be discontinued tomorrow.
Aqara has Xiaomi behind it, and wow the sensords are amazing. Phantastic design, small, very small, blend into every environment.
Yep -- but Im new here!
Hello, I just updated to the latest hassos, and suddenly my hassos wont boot without a monitor connected, anyone have any suggestions for a solution? Running on a RPI4, Ethernet
yes #330990055533576204 will know
I have 4 Develco 10A ZigBee smart plugs. One of them is making a noise when things are connected to it, even when the things are turned off. I'm getting shipped a new one but is it a bad idea to keep using the noisy one?
hi, i'm looking to DIY a esp32 burner.
can anyone tell me the name / designation of the pins/clip for a esp32 fixture burner as seen in the photo?
thank you
@sly owl In general, it is a good idea not to use it if it is making noise. It kind of depends on what noise it is making. *Not an electrician, just an IT guy.
Just got the Shelly H&T sensor. Running it on battery mode until my USB-port-cover comes in. While I'm happy with it, I'm almost confused. The UI suggests I need to choose what offset to update on, e.g. 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, etc. That's great and all but it seems to be waking up once every 5 minutes to update regardless of whether or not there's any change. This is actually preferred behavior (for me) but I'm almost confused as to what the point of the threshold-for-wakeup setting is.
although maybe my moving it around was just enough to trigger. Who knows. Nice little sensor though.
Has anyone ever opened up a Lenovo SE-141DC CCT light bulb? I can’t seem to pop the shell off.
The Blackadder instructions are rather…vague.
I finally got the bulb open but I don’t understand how I can connect the correct pins without unsoldering the board
The board is deep inside the bottom of the light bulb and is non-removable
well shoot. My Shelly H&T keeps going unavailable... despite having ColoT unicast set as per the documentation...
this must just be the way it acts if the temperature hasn't changed enough to trigger the threshold to report in. I kind of just let it go and it seems to come back now and then when the temp changes enough. I suppose it is using enough battery to acknowledge last temp vs current temp and only kicks on wifi to report if it's over threshold...
@pallid lotus there is a shelly forum somewhere, with people knowing the details of these devices and guys from alterco checking in once in a while. maybe ask there? they also improve their firmware (as in making new features available, not just fixing the odd bug), one of the few companies where asking maybe even helps 😉
it is a weird mix of german and english, though
yes .. so basically what I use to post here 😉
I verstand
Hey all, I've had home assistant running on my Raspi 4 for a long time, over a year I think. And it's stopped working recently. It seems to still be grabbing the right IP address, but any attempt to connect to port 8123 is failing. Many things are still working, like my zigbee switches are still controlling my WiFi lights, so I have to assume its not broken yet...
Your install method can help you
I dont understand what you mean, @fringe moon can you elaborate?
#330990055533576204 then i guess
@sharp apex thanks for that. Yeah it does seem like Shelly forums were a bit more active based on my searches. With having to, you know, sleep at night and let this ride I think I kind of discovered how it works, most of it being pretty expected. Sensor seems to always be awake and checking, but only wakes wifi to report to hub if threshold exceeded (e.g. 1 degree). Only rub is if the temp stays the same for too long (15-20 mins or more it seems), HA reports it as "unavailable". Annoying... would be nice if I could get it to still display it's last reported temp instead of throwing up a useless "unavailable" msg since it drops that over the field where it would otherwise display the temp reading...
You could maybe put the sensor value into a helper, and use that in whatever you want tp do?
What did you mean by "on device" configurability of the Leviton? I'm currently battling them on how to work best with smart lightbulbs (e.g. maybe decouple the relay) I have the DG15S.
hello everyone, i'm helping a friend with making his place more (wheelchair) friendly, and i am looking for a automatic door opener for his frontdoor
it's important that if his door closes, that it will get locked
is there anyone with a idea?
@sharp apex yeah, perhaps. I may have accidentally "fixed" it though. That sensor supports battery or hard wire. Funny thing is you can adjust the settings to say you're hard wired even if you're on battery (I suppose this is a neat little hidden feature if you'd rather sacrifice battery for more frequent updates). In that context it seems to check in consistently every 10 minutes. Since doing that HA hasn't dropped the sensor to unavailable one time which is great. This may use more battery but I only need it to last a few more days -- hard wired adapter was already ordered. 😄
That is great! How do you like the sensor?
hi! I think my cheap BT dongle has cheap range, as my furthest BLE devices update much less frequently. what's a known good BT5 dongle with an antenna?
An esp32 with tasmota or esphome might be able to make whatever you are doing easier
Anyone has a recommendation for an analog led strip controller that's home assistant compatible (zigbee). I want to control some 24v led strips used as main lighting in bathroom with home assistant.
#zigbee-archived and check the link to Blakadder's list for some options. Gledopto I think is popular.
@fringe moon do you mean something like having the esp32 catch the BLE broadcasts and translate them to mqtt (or other) and then having a virtual sensor in HA?
really just a xiaomi BLE thermometer, the cheap square ones
there are cheap round ones that use zigbee, not officially Xiaomi, I think
it looks like it's just a problem of a meter or two, so with a better dongle the problem should be solved 😅
I use those with a esp32
So yes it will be fine
Currently running tasmota to pick up two of them
Esp placed 6m from each of them on opposite sides of the house
@fringe moon is there some pre-cooked esphome BLE to WiFi repeater software for this?
oh .. sorry or tasmota, more or less the same 😉
no, i mean the software
Tasmota-bt is precompiled as a bin
ok
Then flash it, connect to your mqtt broker
Anyone using a Picoclick-C3 with Home Assistant ? How did you achieve this ? https://github.com/makermoekoe/Picoclick-C3
is it possible to change the polling of lux ina philips hue motion sensor....
now it takes forever for it to update it's current lux state
I'd recommend a standalone lux sensor
I use a aqara one outdoors
And it updates continuously
yeah i figured as it's main assignment is motion i guess
but had to pop the Q atleast
and the Aqara one works out of the box with a zigbee dongle ?
With zigbee2mqtt i still haven't had a device not work
i meant. does it require re-flashing or ready2go
I have never reflashed a ZigBee device, so not sure what you are asking
You should keep your device firmware up to date
And the coordinator firmware too
great. that answers my question.....
better find a shop in sweden that holds one then.
cool...good thing i got my cc2652 zigbee 3.0 then
you don't happen to have a picture of it if i ask nicely ?
Ag
It is branded as mijia
NOK 124.41 | Original Xiaomi Mijia Smart Light Sensor Light Detection Intelligent Linkage Waterproof Used With Smart Multi-mode Gateway
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPrZd3A
no wonder i couldn't find it when searching for aqara 😄
thx a lot
bummer.....item discontinued....well....i know what to look for atleast
Hello all. Looking for some help on this issue I just started having with PWM dimmers:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/after-latest-updates-some-of-my-pwm-dimmers-stopped-working/393606
A lot of info in the forum post.
I have a few echo show 5s, I'm switching over to google for the home asistants, is there anything I can do with these without linking to an amazon account?
Same thing for the dots, can I use them as an input without getting all the amazon notifications?
trying to add a z-wave thermostat with the nortek stick. HA spins on "Searching for device", the thermostat times out with Err after 1 minute. How can I debug this?
anybody able to recommend a decent ZigBee hub, I need some thing reliable for home security.
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Hi all, I'm new to HA, and have no Z-Wave devices or experience. I want to buy a Aeotec multi-sensor 6, but I'm overwhelmed by how much documentation and methods there are. Can I just buy the sensor and have HA work with it? Or do I need other hardware? I'm running HA OS in a Synology VM.
You need a zwave coordinator
And preferably mains powered zwave devices to increase coverage
Anyone have a recommendation for a black open/close sensor? Prefer zwave but can do zigbee as well. The only one I’ve found is the fibaro one and that would work great, except I can’t find it in-stock anywhere.
I'm looking for an outdoor keypad (numbers) where the goal is to enable gate access for deliveries via punching in a certain code. Any recommendations?
Has anyone tried to drive an IR LED with something like an esp8266 and then controlled it with HA?
Hi guys. New to the discord channel.
I was wondering if anyone had some opinions on how to best integrate an outdoor security light with home assistant. I am aware that there is a zwave smart sensor that can be retrofit, but id rather do something with zigbee if possible
I think some people wire up a shelly em as well
and i guess another way to do it would be to use a smart light bulb right?
My Leviton Zigbee switch has no configurable options that are programmed directly onto the switch itself. So my zwave ones for example have settings that let you control if the LED on the switch is on/off, brightness, etc. Some of the better configurable features though are the min/max brightness the switch will set the bulbs to, what to do on a double tap, what state to put the switch in following a power outage
But from what I'm learning, Zigbee switches don't have any of that kind of functionality. Maybe because zigbee isn't as standardized of a standard, and maybe because it's a cheaper tech
But, on that topic, sort of, has anyone found a list of light bulbs that use trailing edge vs leading edge dimming technology? I'm learning that some dimmer switches use one or the other, MOSFET or Triac, and they need to be paired with the right light bulbs to avoid flickering and poor min brightness control
leviton smart decora supports minimum settings to my knowledge. no personal experience with them though.
but that doesnt really answer your question
leviton zigbeedo not have any configuratble settings
i'm saying i have direct experience
There are howtos on youtube, but maybe #diy-archived would know
whats the best way to get bluetooth to HA? im running HA on rpi 🙂
any recommended dongle?
rpi has bluetooth built in 🤔
piO 2w has
No you
I got a display cabinet with glass boards in it. i want to have an rgb light (Spotlight?)at the top that illuminates the whole cabinet from the inside. Living in germany zigbee/wifi should work zigbee preffered
If I'm looking for a weather sensor package (temperature, wind speed/direction. rain would be nice but not essential) to use with HA, where does the smart money go please? I don't want to waste money by going top of the range. I also don't want to end up with junk because I saved £50
I would say DIY
Who wants $200 to get my Russound MCA-C5 working on Rio? I will get whatever hardware is needed. Currently running on Hassos o n PI3. The documentation is crazy and I don't have the time to sort it out. I have a TCP to serial adapter plugged into my MCA-C5's , I have pointed the RIO integration to the IP of the serial, Conifgured the Serial as per required and nothing. As per usual the IP of the MCA is unstable despite having the best routers and switches you can think of.
Just crazy trying to wade through everything.
Make that $400
Reach out and I will set up a teams call
what are you planning to do with it? I have a CAV.6.6 the previous owner of the house left (I guess is very old) but I was actually planning to remove it as I don't think the sound quality is gonna be as good as with the newer stuff
All I want to do is expose the sources to alexa so I can turn the zones on and off.
I don't even to change the source.
I Don't even need to change the sources.
BTW the newer stuff isn't any better. Just replace your speakers.
the S/N ratio is about the same as the 88.
ser2net fits in there somwhere , I suspect that I can't run it on the Pi version.
of Hassos
anyone knows a good white-spectrum lightstrip controller ? i have an GRB controller from magichome but i need another one for a whitespectrum led strip
hi guys,
does anyone have an opinion on the outdoor security light question i asked earlier?
This might be off topic, but any suggestions for providing 5V DC (not a battery) to an ESP8266 connected to HA in a garage? It can get down to -15C, even colder if the door is open.
every usb wall charger provides 5v ?
Yeah but are they reliable outside (well in the garage) in cold temps? Not sure how much I trust any specs written on them for temperature.
humidity wouldn‘t make the same trouble as outside when placed inside, i think a garage applies to this too. i would not cheap out on the plug in this case but when powered (and in use) it should keep itself well above the -15C
you can always put it in a proper box and seal it off, just to make sure
$400 for Mca-c5 serial integration
Meanwell 5V ip67 power supply
@drifting grove if the charger is pumping out about a Watt of power, it will never be too cold.
I've got an old Samsung charger for my Zogbee router and a meanwell din rail supply for the shelly 1 of my garage door opener. Both work fine.
i have a project where i want to deploy smart lighting for 170+ nodes.. they are spread out in a ski course in a forest.. the map of the nodes look like this: https://i.postimg.cc/fTx1zXPF/poles.png . each pole are on average 40 meters apart.. any tips to which technology to connect these?
i want to be able to dim the lights.. and maybe also change colours
you could just deploy wifi for the whole area
2.4ghz has more coverage, but you will run into issues with that aswell because rain is in the same spectrum.
definitely no cheap way to accomplish that
is lora fast enough for that many clients?
what kind of delays would he be subjected to
Since it will then be multicast, i guess it won't matter
And even in my diy testing with an antenna inside a car and an antenna inside my office i got 250m
ya the swiss accent guy did some impressive tests
what is the zwave range? isnt it like 5mhz?
868 for LoRA if I remember correctly
would probably work with strong nodes (preferrably with proper antennas) on every pole,
With LoRA you should be fine with one concentrator and 170 end devices
Which in reality is esp boards
Unsure how many clients you can have per concentrator
But then you could just move to LoRAWAN and multiple ones
What zigbee bulbs is everyone using? (I'm in the US)
Tradfri 4 lyfe
Hue is also good mostly but expensive
Is the cabling already done? How long would a bus become? Maybe 3 DALI buses or DMX could be options. Maybe even KNX - depends on what lights you are using.
Cabling for power, yes. The longest stretch would probably be a couple of kms

Oh. Then I guess DALI and KNX are out. DMX maybe with some boosters, but no experience with it.
Seems as there is no cheap solution
Hi, I'm still developing the project "MrDIY Notifier" :
https://github.com/schmurtzm/MrDiy-Audio-Notifier
it is an audio player / local TTS player (samvoice generated locally on the ESP) / ringtone player / web radio player based on ESP8226 or ESP32.
It's MQTT controlled.
Very cheap : one ESP and a speaker is enough to start.
I'm looking for help to manage some problematic :
- I have implemented Google TTS but still some bugs in esp8266audio library to manage it correctly. (See issue here : https://github.com/earlephilhower/ESP8266Audio/issues/475)
- I would like that Home Assistant recognize it as a media player. So can we create a media player entity and drive it with MQTT commands in HA ?
- As immediate alternative for Google TTS I would like to use HA. I know that HA can generate MP3 for TTS but is there a way to separate the tts mp3 creation and the command to launch the playback ?
Thanks for your help 🙂
Hello, I’m having an issue keeping an Aqara E1 door sensor connected for more than half a day. Using Sonoff 3.0 Zigbee USB coordinator with 20211217 firmware, have a couple Sonoff Zigbee lite plugs as routers. The door sensor is about 40-50 feet away and connects through one of the routers with. Most LQI for all connected devices is 40-100. Did and scan and moved the Zigbee coordinator to channel 20 which had the lowest congestion. I do have 3 Unifi APs, a Linksys router and Arlo base station, as well as a Phillips hue hub. One AP, the Linksys router and Arlo base station are a few feet from the coordinator. Using a 3ft extension to get it as far away as possible, but the Home Assistant hardware is installed near these WiFi devices. Phillips hue hub is about 15 feet away in another room. Is there anything else I can do to fix my LQI, or is that even the problem?
No expert here and perhaps better suited for #zigbee-archived. To me those are a lot of variable that could play a role. 3 APs depending on what channel you have those yes they might be interfering if they're screaming at the same channel as your coordinator. Then having the Philips hue hub you essentially have two zigbee networks in your house, so also depends on the network the hub is at.
You'd greatly increase your zigbee coverage and reliability if you were to include all your lights into the other network
Hi, I have this mini pc server running an ubuntu and docker (with hass in a container) and several other home automation things.. it runs perfect but after a few days the server hangs, and it's impossible to access through SSH or any web service.. I'm clueless where to start looking at..
What should I look for? which logs? settings? any recommendations?
Thank you. I thought about pulling the blubs into the Sonoff coordinator network. Do you know if the same 'resume last state' feature would be available if I wasn't using the Hue Hub?
I believe that depends on the software you use. I'm 99% sure Zigbee2MQTT usually has that feature (at least for the the few lights I have on it). But I don't think ZHA has that option (also not used ZHA so can't say for sure)
what about physically accessing the server? Keyboard and a monitor. Does that hang too or is that fine?
could look at journalctl for logs around the time it happens maybe
Yes it hangs too
Which Bluetooth chips are supported for integrations (to be exact switchbot) in home assistant?
Hey guys I have a door or a door lock from inosmart is there a way to integrate that to ha?
NOK 131.67 54%OFF | Yagusmart 6 Gangs Tuya Zigbee Switch with Push Button Alexa Voice Control Smart Wireless Scene Switches Smart Home Device
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq12sRI
After reading the description i still don't know if the middle thing is a button

What do you mean with ‚resume last state‘, after power failure?
@fringe moon : when a rotary phone and the wifi logo had an illegitimate child
There are not enough rotary phone dial based scene selectors ;)
@north trellis run a memory test (memtest86 or similar), overnight if possible. Try another power supply.
A machine that freezes even on the physical console more often than not has broken hardware.
Oh, could be. It doesn’t freezes completely when connected to keyboard and monitor, you can move mouse and type, but it’s super super slow
And if you look into the running processes? Is there something with high workload
Or is the ram full
Cant harm in every case to check that
@leech: if super super slow, is this seen in the system load, eg load levels of 50+? That is more of a software problem, if i had to guess. Memory leak beahviour.
Can you still run "top" if this happens (mabe slowly, like doing something every few minutes)?
It would be interresting if load goes up slowly over hours, or if everything is running fine, and then bam within a few minutes things go wrong. Slowly over hours is often a memory leak, you "just" have to find the leaky software.
hey new to this discord so sorry if wrong place to ask... but - about to pull the pin on an Roborock S5 Max and was wanting to see if people here have experience with it. Especially want to check whether zoned cleanups are possible. Eg I want to automate that it will only clean certain rooms depending on some logic (eg if there's someone in there etc). Also would be stoked to hear different recommendations if theres a better vacuum out there to consider. Thanks!
i run the s6vmax without trouble
given that the s5 max uses the traditional firmware compared to the s6maxv I'd say you are fine
they both have nearly the same feature set, s6 has a camera added
cool, thanks man. Can you access the camera on the s6?
Would be a cool security feature 🙂
you cannot. access to cam only works with the roborock app for now, but by using the roborock app instead of xiaomi mi home app you cannot extract permanent tokens. they rotate, and its talking tuya when paired with the roborock app
ah cool. I started looking to see if valetudo enables it
no valetudo for s6maxv without completely taking that thing apart
_"This class only exists for the unfortunate souls who already own one" _
ouch
the valetudo devs love it
thanks for linking. Love the idea of the camera & avoidance with it, but think maybe I'll just go the S5 Max and be happy enough with it
actually relegating our current one to do outdoor terrace duty, going to be interesting to see how it holds up to it
its quite crazy that there are no outdoor vacbots
you can still view photos the camera takes when the robot detects objects in the way, i think the whole camera thing was a joint venture with tuya…
Hi, anyone knows if the Amazon Smart Plug works with home assistant without sync with amazon?
Is there something like the Amazon smart plug, or rather lots of different plugs labelled "works with Alexa"?
There are many smart plugs that work with HA
Sadly, "works with X" means only that, and those voice assistants don't allow you to use those devices
The Hue Hub allows you to set the state of the bulb if power is lost. Last State, Off or Default On (white light)
Yes, that is also possible with zigbee2mqtt and ZHA too
Thats stored on the device and not dependend on the hub
Even if you have to set it again after repairing on zigbee2mqtt
See https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/9290011370B.html Power on behavior
So i've got a few questions before I pull the plug on a lot of money. I've got a current camera system thats aging and starting to get outdated. Looking to upgrade to nearly 10 Amcrest cameras and wondering what hardware would work to run that.
Would an ODroid N2+ work fine to run Home Assistant + FrigateNVR Addon for 10 1080p cameras, or would I have to get something more powerful like a NUC or Minisforum GK41?
Sorry, including the coral USB accelerator
Everything i've looked at shows its supported with odroid n2+, as well as either miniPC
Frigates docs don't specify how many, just several when run in docker
The USB isn't as good as the M.2 version, but it's still better than none
hey every one ive been messing with home assitant in a virtual box for a while. i just got my odroid n2+ from ameridroid with everything already installed. i didnt log in i just tried to load a partial back up. now i cant get in using my nabu casa or the ip or the home assistant.local. i plugged a monitor in and it is running i'd like o just reverse the back up...any one have any ideas?
That sounds like #installation-archived
sorry just stuck
Hello! Anyone knows whether there's a similar product to below, that's for 220v?
https://www.brilliant.tech/products/brilliant-control-smart-home-smart-lighting-three-switch?variant=white
You could use a tablet for that
@thick oriole good point
Which one of the two sounds like a better solution:
- HA Core on OpenWRT router + Zigbee USB. Vote

- HA Core on Android Tablet + Zigbee USB. Vote

@winged knoll explain why, I'd like to know more. Got each working, support is not an issue.
Router ... underpowered
Android tablet ... not designed to run as a server
WiFi for a server is a bad idea
Built in spicy pillow is also a bad idea
Still, if you have a working Python 3.10 ... and you're happy to handle all your own support when things don't work ... why not cause yourself needless pain and suffering?
It's not often I'd say a Pi would be a better choice, but ... it really would
Latest OpenWRT has Docker support, makes the pain pill easier to swallow, exclusively exposing zigbee device to container, encrypted overlayfs, depends on the outlook
@winged knoll so you're recommending a NUC?
@rose jewel Discord isn't like IRC, you don't have to tag people on every response. Keep in mind that every time you tag somebody, they get a notification ping. That can very quickly become annoying and people may block you.
When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).
A NUC will be worlds better than some crappy router
You also don't have to worry about the write life of your storage
Allright, thanks 🙂 let's see where this goes
You can set that stuff via clusters.
hi guys, any thoughts on this?
You can look here if something fits your needs: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/
Does anybody know which smart radiator appliance is any good? Do they need a plug to work or do they work with batterie?
If you guys were to start over completely with your HA setup, what hub device/usb stick would you recommend? Something in the 700 series, even though it sounds like there are some growing pains with it?
700 series suggests you've already chosen Z-Wave
You'd want to ask the folks in #zwave-archived if you've narrowed things down that far already, though the answer is generally Aeotec
Good point. I certainly haven't settled on z wave. Is there a stick like the HUSBZB-1 that can work with both z wave and zigbee, but is a little more future proof?
What would be the zigbee equivalent to the 700 series at this stage?
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Better seperate the funcionalities
Tube sells some nice network connected CC2652 based coordinators, including PoE ones
Gotcha, makes sense. So if I end up needing a mix of z wave and zigbee, the best thing to do is get a (likely aeotec) 700 series and the also something cc2652 based?
Yea, the tube offerings look nice
Cool, appreciate the insight. I guess my next question is a matter of placement. I currently have an UnRaid server in my unfinished basement, that I could very easily plug USB sticks into. (And I believe there is a HA docker.) Would I want to just plug right in there, or would I likely want to find a way to get the two hubs more centrally located in the house?
Well, if you go with one of Tube's devices you can place that centrally
I do have Ethernet run to most rooms in the house, so poe could be really nice
Central is better than off in the corner, you could run the Z-Wave JS core on a Pi placed centrally
Is there an equivalent to the cc2652 tube coordinator for z wave? I.e. something suitable to being centrally placed?
Sadly no
A RPi with a PoE hat and zwave dongle could work with zwavejs2mqtt. Basically make your own
That's how I'd tackle it
I wonder if maybe just trying the zwave dongle plugged directly into my UnRaid machine (or maybe with an extension USB to bring it to the ceiling of the basement) would be a good first step to ease my way into things? And if range seems to be an issue, then go the RPi route?
That's a fine strategy. It's a mesh network
I can't lie... been messing with the shelly H&T more lately and I'm not sure I find it any better than my Aqara zigbee temp sensor that I was using leading up to the shelly... it almost feels like the Aqara is a bit more precise and consistent. The reporting from the shelly strikes me as a bit more hit and miss.
Not to mention the shelly was only in use for 2 weeks and I cooked the battery (well, 3% remaining), whereas the Aqara I've had employed since middle of December and it's right around 50%...
I'm running HA in a VM in Unraid, and apparently my Zooz Z-Wave USB transmitter and my Sonoff USB Zigbee transmitter use the same USB-to-serial chipset and report the same hardware ID, meaning I can't pass them both through to my HA VM at the same time. Any suggestions on Zigbee transmitters I should look at? I've thought about getting a PCIe USB bus but the slots on my supermicro x9-sri-f are so tight together that I may need a riser, or a whole new board with further placed slots, which is a nightmare I do not want to undertake.
Is everyone’s tablet for wall mount fire HD?
And does anyone have a recommendation on a good weather station
Haven't gone the route of a wall mounted tablet yet. Not sure if I will personally. I have a 24" wall mounted desktop LCD and I've found I prefer the larger screen, though I stream cameras 247 on it in a 1/3 HA 2/3 BlueIris split. I don't think I could go 10" with those preferences 😦 For weather station what were you looking for? Like a forecast card?
it seems that an android based tablet is preferred because of the Kiosk app (forget the name)
i believe its what allows you to have the display turn off/on based on motion detection
I haven't found any other way to do that outside of android/kiosk app
Thanks, I didn't know about that. But from what I can see, it hardly seems comparable in functionality to what you get with zwave devices
I am trying to connect a new Zigbee thermostat to HA using ZHA but it does not expose any entities, such as temperate set point and current temperature. Any reecomendations on how to debug this?
I have a house dashboard im aiming for for lights, music etc. I just hate Amazon.
But it’s hard to fight the price
I'm having a really hard time picking out the right switches. I thought TPLink looked good, but it seems like they don't support local access anymore?
https://alerts.home-assistant.io/#tplink.markdown
What's a good wifi dimmer switch?
I'm also looking for a switch with a motion sensor built in, but can't find anything that would indicate if the motion sensor would be picked up independently in Home Assistant.
Is it true that some of the Amazon Echos have Zigbee radios built in? Is that something HA can work with?
Use a proper stick
Try the #zigbee-archived channel
I might need to completely rethink my current setup. Right now it's just running inside a HyperV VM.
I don't think a USB stick will work with that.
Buy one of Tube's network connected Zigbee coordinators
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Oh neat. That could work.
Usb pass through probably works with hyperV too
I thought hyper v didn’t have usb pass thru?
I run hyper v but thought I ran in to that in the past when I read about it…
I’m suddenly curious about these network zigbee coordinators though. Although I currently have some zwave devices set up as I’m using a nortek adapter that does both so I’d have to account for zwave too… might be a non starter.
Im no expert here, i have just made a quick google search
Hey everyone, I am building a house now (should move in in about 4-5 months). I am planning the infrastructure for the house to also allow for smart home elements. I love the idea of using home assistant (open-source etc.).
Not sure if this is the right place, but would like to chat about what infrastructure I should build-in to the house to prep properly. For instance, with lighting should I go for smart bulbs or should I install smart switches?
If this is the wrong channel for this please let me know where you might recommend I go (another channel/ another discord server).
Smart switches >>>> smart bulbs
There are a few dozen forum threads touching on this though
reddit?
You can find the community forum here
Unless you want colors or something like that
thanks 🙂
You can always do both, with some care, if you don't mind setting light to money
Or do both separately with some accent lights here and there. For main lighting colors are pretty useless anyway in my experience
Yeah, white temperature is the most I want - and you can get dumb bulbs that get warmer as they dim
I'll go bulbs over switches any day
I have used hyper-v with usb passthrough in the past. It was on server 2008r2 though. I'm not sure if a desktop version has the same capabilities.
2008r2 hyperv certainly did not have usb passthrough
i did it for storage sorry. it looks like most other things will not work with a vm guest
as in everything else wont work.. you could try virtual box or vmware workstation if you need to keep your host operating system on windows. Or vmware esxi has a free edition if you don't need a usable host os
I just saw these from philips, but they were only in an edison bulb of an odd shape. Have you seen other brands?
They also only go from 2200k to 2700k
I'm after a multipurpose sensor for Ensuite, wanting to do Motion sensor, and Humidity as the 2 main things, anybody know of anything? Also need to be able to get it here in Australia, which limits me
Whats ensuite
Why not just Aqara temp and Aqara motion sensors?
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#e=humidity throws up a few options, plus there's the Z-Wave devices like the Aeotec multi-sensor
It’s not one sensor, but it fits your requirements
Hadn't heard of them before, but they don't seam to be avaliable in Australia 😦
AliExpress
That does look pretty good, and can get in Australia, it is pretty pricy though, but looks like it would work. I don't have any Zigbee or Z-wave at all yet, so still need to pick one for these types of sensors, looks like it may have to be Z-wave for this sensor
does anyone know of a smart light that supports control over ethernet?
LED, outdoor, dimmable and also color support
Aliexpress is your friend for stuff in australia. If its not mains powered its fine
Any recommendations? I know there's lots of good stuff there, but also a lot of crap
aqara
Lifx does outdoor bulbs, they have both a cloud and local API
I don't think I've ever seen a hardwired outdoor light with ethernet
yeah, but i need something that's wired and controlled over something
outside of DIY
Anything with an ESP32 with ethernet board
As in wired up with LAN not just control over Lan? Never seen anything like that before for off the shelf, but wifi with local control is easy
this is outdoor.. i have 180 lights all spread out of several kms.. i don't want to have 180 different wifi networks
i will probably have cellular/mobile connection to each point
You don't need 180 different WiFi networks, several km really isn't that bad for WiFi
Aquara, as mentioned by @hollow lance earlier. Zigbee based, just get a zigbee based stick
in a forest?
Small wifi repeater beside every light, means when you go wandering you have full wifi too. PoE those wifi APs
All broadcasting the same SSID
You can't run Poe or a single cable over that distance, so already need to run power with switches etc, just have a ap point every few lights, as needed
there's generally 40-50 meter between each point
A proper AP with a directional antenna will go quite a long way, and lights barley need a connection, just 1mbps is more than rnough
and they are all on a "string"
so one light will generally just see the one before and after itself
so in practice you'd need one ap per point
Sounds like you should be using DMX controller, not IOT devices
DMX? does that run over power line?
Yeah, IOT control over DMX is easy, and DMX works how you want, you just daisy chain the entire string
It's how proper professional lights work
because we don't want to be running separate cabling for this
POE won't work over distances your talking, you already need power + control cables, with DMX it's just DMX instead of ethernet
we already have power
You're asking for a lot tbh. If you only have power then you'll need a way to send networking
Whether thats ethernet or directional microwave link/ wifi
well, we're probably going for cellular (mobile)
Then (and its not often recommended) a cloud based solution may be better
Then just a single DMX cable will do it all easily, but I still don't get why putting in a few AP's wouldn't work and using regular smart bulbs, you just have 1 4g dongle, and run a network with that as the router
Site to site VPN setup is fairly easy, but your basically just doing DIY cloud at that point
Then just do VPN and your many 4g sim idea
but i still need some light to be controlled from the 4G
If they all think they're on your network and HA can talk to them then it doesn't matter
What do you mean?
The vpn turns 4g into "local"
if you can do cellular for each you could do cloud mqtt
it feels kind of wrong to set up one AP per cellular point to just control a light 5 cm from the cellular modem
via aws or similar
180 Sims is crazy expensive, you can do it with a single SIM and just a few AP's
Why do you keep saying you need 1 AP per light?
you see the scale at the bottom of the image
Directional AP can go far
that's inside a forest.. the trees are taller than the light poles
Then you’re not leaving much option
Yeah, you'd be supprised how few APs you need to cover that, use proper directional antennas, 2.4g will be okay in a forrest
You could also just set them all to the same SSID if they don’t reach, it won’t matter
Just don't use crappy home use all on ones, use proper AP's and antennas
I like ubiquiti gear, you can use a few just use some mesh AP then just create one large mesh networo
Or you may have to make custom bulbs that can convert Ethernet into say an esp32
But then it’s diy
hm, hm
Usually for this stuff power is the hard part, and you've already got that covered which makes this so easy, just run a big mesh networo, no more cables to run and you can easily test, and move AP's as needed. The lights barley need a 2.4ghz connection 1mbps is more than enough, so your not trying to get a proper connection, you just barley need one
yeah, i agree
but when you say "mesh" network?
what do you really mean then?
single SSID?
same SSID broadcasted all over?
Mesh network just means a single SSID and the next AP connects to other AP's, so you don't need to run cables between them, it's all wifi, no cables at all
and also.. for the repeater stations.. if the client side of the repeater should connect to the same SSID, then it could potentially risk connecting to itself thus making a dead node?
The software manages it properly, you need to use proper mesh AP's not just a bunch of regular ones
Look up the Unifi design centre, you can put on your floor plan and scale and it will estimate range and coverage etc
Yep, that's the best option
There's other ones that give better performance, for most cost, but you don't need that better performance for this
You may want to get bigger antennas, but antennas are not cheap, may just be easier to put in more AP's since power and position and client density isn't an issue
2.4ghz is okay with obstructions, no amount of planning will tell you what performance you'll get
then i need outdoor lights that work over wifi 🙂
The better antennas can cost more than the mesh AP, so for your use case just put more AP in, since you have power everywhere
LED, dimmable and colour
I know Lifx make them, but can probably find cheaper ones
need proper lights.. like flood lights
Yeah, they are made for that
You can even get the IR version to help with security cameras at night if the lights are off
what is made for what?
The lightbulbs are made as outdoor flood lights, and can have IR always on, even when visible.light isn't, for cameras
I don't know of any better floodlights that are also RGB, I've got a light that's a much better floodlights, but no RGB
Br30 is their outdoor one
It's not floodlight floodlight, but made for outdoors
1100 lumen
Yeah, it's not great, I've got a 3000 lumen smart floodlight, but no rgb
I don't know any better floodlights that have rgb
maybe we can skip the rgb part.. it was just nice to have 🙂
do you know of a floodlight that can dim that's running off wifi
Yes, but it's Australia only, but it's just a Tuya device, so I'm sure there's versions wherever you are
link me, plz 🙂
That's what I have, only 1650 lumens, but cheaper than lifx as well
Pretty sure they have a more powerful version, I just didn't need it, but can't find it online atm
open api and local control?
Tuya devices have the local API now. Are you wanting to integrate this with something external? Or can you put a Pi running HA at the site that you control remotely? Would work much better if the HA server is on site
yes, probably ha local on site
Have a look at Tuya, probably the most common IOT thing, so many companies white label them
I've got like 4 different brands of stuff that's all just Tuya and I control it with the Tuya app, not each whitelabeled version
IMO buy a 5 pack of the Aps and like 20 of the lights, and the Pi or yellow etc to run HA and set it up and get it working, make sure it works as expected.
Then buy all the lights, set them all up and labelled etc, then install all lights at site, then set up your primary AP where your server and 4g connection is, then just get a couple of really long extension leads, and just walk each AP as far away as it works, and put it on the closest light and keep repeating, buying and using more AP as needed, you'd have a good idea of how many you need after you have first 5 setup. At least that's how I would do this, it's a big project
You need to run the unifi controller for it to work properly, but that can run as a HA add-on, or in docker or dedicated hardware, which option is best mostly depends on how many AP you end up needing, but if you got the dream machine router, then it will manage all the AP take in your 4g connection via LAN and it can do the VPN stuff
yeah, i've worked a bit with the ubiquiti stuff before 🙂
got quite a few p2p links already set up
and also a site that's dream machine-managed
Soudns like you've got it all covered, just need to find the best floodlight
If your willing to remove dimming you can just do it all with smart plugs, opens up light options more, but dimming is nice, just restricts choices a lot
dimming is more or less the main reason for doing this 🙂
so we can save power by dimming down the lights when there's no activity in the course
I'd be interested to see the business case for this, every cusumption now, vs expected with cost of install, and payback calvulations
exactly
Dunno if its possible to combine a led zigbee driver like gledopto with a led flood light
Sorry you wanted to make wlan right
Then a wlan led driver maybe
@green pine what about directional antennas added to the ubiquiti? like buy something from aliexpress? would that work?
if i don't want the 360 coverage, but more like direction x and direction y
I wouldn't bother, I've had friends try Ali express antennas and they are all worse than included ones. Proper antennas can cost more than just another mesh AP, for your case just add another AP, better antennas are mainly better for long distances, where you can't add another one in the middle, which is usually due to lacking power or mounting point, you have both
LPWAN is made for your use case, very low frequency, so much better distance and deals with obsitcales better, you can get 10km/ap from what I've seen, howwer the tech is pretty new and not really production ready or anything yet, but may be worth testing it, it's made for low bandwidth like IOT devices
well.. the problem is then how to bridge the ip space with controlling the light
I'm not sure what you mean by that?
i can get ip to the light pole.. but then connecting from that to the light source is the challenge
for instance.. if i wanted to use lora and then get presence in each pole.. then i would still need another box/device to set up a wifi network
too many boxes and too much that can go wrong
the wifi solution is ok.. with the access points
Presence detection? So only turns on with movement?
You can get smart floodlights that also have sensors in them, so can be forced on or responding to it's sensor
yes
Well yeah those all in ones units make physical wiring much easier but also software control, setting up hundreds of motion sensors and their floodlight and managing that with automations would be a nightmare
exactly
the problem with using sensors on the lights is that we still want to be able to control when and if the motion sensor should be active.. so that's why we probably want external sensors
but something that's wired in and that uses wifi
that should work just fine
I haven't used that light I linked, but it seams like you can control all the Params for the sensor, as well as have the light on/off/sensor
since this is outdoors in the woods.. we don't want an elk to trigger the lights in the middle of the night 🙂
Then you need cameras with person detection AI running, and then your needing a lot more wifi bandwidth and processing power
And all that running will probably be cheaper to just leave floodlights on a good old fashioned timer
yeah
Unless you just mean like between 8pm and mightnigjt they are in sensor mode, then turn off the rest of the night?
but what we want is a "dim function".. so for instance.. a master lux sensor that detects how much background light there is.. if it's between 7 in the morning and 23 in the night.. then the lux sensor will be used to decide if the lights should be on..
and then we want a motion sensors to decide if the lights should be dimmed at 100% or maybe just 30%
so if someone moves around in the course, then it should dim the lights up based on movement
but the "master switch", based on time of day and how much background light there is, decides if the lights should be on in the first place
motion just decides the brightness
yeah, basically what you said above 🙂
that light you linked to seems to be nearly exactly what we're after, apart from the dimming part
Yeah, you may just need to use an external wifi PIR
yup
They are almost certently going to be battery powered... And that's a nightmare of a job to change the batteries, but you can get little DC power supplies that just emulate the battery, either with a dummy battery or just bare leads you solder onto the battery tabz
That's a pretty serious floodlight already on there
This may be crazy but what if instead of dimming you just used 2 lights? Have a 1000 lumen bulb then a 3000 lumen one, and if you want it dim only have the 1000 lumen on, if you need more turn the other one, not dimming but gets the same end result I think your after, then the lights are easy to find, and can just use smart plugs
yeah, i see what you mean.. but.. not as elegant... 🙂
what do you mean by pretty serious floodlight? more than 1800 lumesn?
lumens*
Yeah, looks like it to me, but photos can be misleading for lights
but what you see with that beam angle from the picture.. it's a bit too narrow.. so instead of having 3000 lumens pointed in a 30 degree angle, then it would also be better to have that spread a bit more
Yeah, which usually means more lumens to get usable light on theaeger area
It works perfectly fine, you of course get more and more latency, but for your use case isn't a problem at all
My parents in laws house uses their neighbours mesh wifi for their home internet, them and their neighbours both have about 15 acres, and neighbour uses mesh wifi for his whole block, and PIR just have a wifi recieber into a normal all in one unit, and it works pretty good with decent latency, and that's about 4 hops across the neighbours mesh
yeah
i actually have a link that goes several kms out over open sea.. it's 4 p2p links 🙂
the longest one is 12 km 🙂
5km -> 12km -> 500m -> 700m
Yeah P2P over distance is easy, unifi will do 40km with 1gbps or something, with like $400 of hardware it's crazy what you can do with budget now
yeah
and the liteap is awesome
i'm blown away by its performance
it works as an ap for the 12km link
Yeah, they make good hardware, they just need more qc for their software
yeah, and they need to open a bit more up.. struggling with their access kit currently.. but that's another project
Yeah, I looked into access for home, but yeah looked to locked down, and I would need a pro POE switch to power it, which turned it from already expensive to defintly not close to worth it for me
i ended up buying the dream machine for that purpose only.. but i believe i have to scratch the entire project.. i can still use the dream machine, of course, but it's just not worth it anymore 🙂
Yeah, it's a shame I'm on the lookout for a good smart lock, but can't find much that meats my specific requirements and are available in Australia, and don't cost an arm and a leg
i quite like the ones that doesn't require you to change the lock.. you can still use the same lock and key, but they only turn the bolt around physically
from the outside the door looks the same
for instance the danalock
Yeah I'd ideally like something like that, clean from the outside and I can use HA to unlock when anybody is home
yup
I don't need pin codes etc for my home, it's not an Airbnb or something
Danalock looks good, will have to look into it properly
Yeah zwave version seams to be the only one worth getting from the different types
there's another that uses the same concept.. but i can't remember the name
Does anyone have a recommendation for a doorbell? I don't currently have a "real" one, I was using an Aqara Zigbee button but it died in a storm this weekend. I thought before replacing it I would ask here in case someone has a better recommendation.
@green pine if that works with your lock a cheapt option is
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/eqiva-Bluetooth-Smart-drive-142950A0/dp/B01GVZ771W/
software is a bit cubersome, but there is an open source solution to include it into HA
sadly I had to disable it, because my 1 and a half year old was clever enough to open our front door with it 😉
hi guys, can anyone recommend tunable bulbs that go to 100w, have good cool white color at 6000k or 6500k, and can go to 3000k or so? No need for RGB, can be either zigbee or wifi, but must be able to change color temperature
So far I only found tunable 100w bulbs that also include RGB - and those are either expensive philips hue, or WiZ lights (and their idea of "cool white" looks very green and relatively dim...)
Why not just get a smart dimmer?
smart dimmer just changes brightness, not color temperature
I have a routine which has lights at 6000k(ish) white during the day, then gradually shifts them to yellow in the evening
used to have some Tuya bulb in the past, which burned out and the company is no longer in business, so I'm looking for a replacement that's maybe more reliable
That looks ok, but I already have smart locks. I just need a doorbell 😉
I think he tried to adress someone else
Ahh yes, my bad. Can you tell it's Monday?
Tell me why, i don‘t like mondays.
What size standoffs do you guys typical use, M2, M2.5, M3, other...?
Good point, will do.
I'm currently running a nortek zigbee/zwave combo dongle. I like it, but am looking long term with when I'll inevitably have to upgrade coordinators. Googling around it sounds like there's a thousand ways to migrate to a different coordinator with varying levels of success. Is there not a straight forward way to keep all devices/entities and just point them at a new coordinator?
Depends on whether you mean #zigbee-archived or #zwave-archived
technically both
And what integrations you're using for those
Z-Wave JS and ZHA
You'd want to ask in #zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived
thanks
I am having trouble getting a bluetooth doongle to work on HA blue. IT is an "Asus BT400". It can't find the firmware. I download the firmware to "/lib/firmware", but it removes the firmware on reboot so I can't get it to work
That is a locked down appliance experience for you
are you running via container?
You can't modify the container as it won't survive restarts unless you commit the changes
Not supported, and since he says blue I'm guessing #330990055533576204
Most Bluetooth issues can be solved with an esp32 though
ah either way simple linux driver installation







