#hardware-archived
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The Phillips Hue integration requires hub inside HA.
You don't need their hub
It requires a coordinator
So individual device IP
And no IP
Hmm..

To be fair what standard is followed 100%. Everyone does their own little spin because they can
Oh I was bringing apple, cisco, microsoft, HP, Dell, etc etc into this
They're all just as bad

I'm trying to plan how to fully automate my living room/kitchen lights. I've seen around people using media players to detect presence, but I might not be playing anything at some point and I guess that's the real challenge! I also saw stuff around motion sensors but I'm afraid those will fire when my big dog is moving around, any suggestions/ideas on how to solve this?
There's no good affordable solutions right now
Careful placing of sensors can cut down on dog detection - I've mounted the "entering the living room" motion sensor so that it looks across the doorway, rather than down.
when you install one of those motion sensors, how do you debug? just by moving around and checking the state changes?
Pretty much
Though it's 5 foot off the ground, the dog has no hope of triggering it
Fun part is that the Aqara sensors have a 2(?) minute cooldown period so you must wait 2 minutes after each try ๐
1 minute
that's what I was actually afraid off ๐
reducible to less via hardware mods
Have you actually done that? I haven't seen the need.
yes
how have you not seen the need?
By giving ample time before lights go off ๐
I'll have to learn about that then ๐
I need to get myself a pressure sensor hooked up to an Aqara contact sensor and put it in my chair. That looks neat. Getting notifications shouted at me to get up.
and is there any reliable sensor that could measure distance or something similar?
a time-of-flight sensor
I'm trying to think (probably I'm speaking crazy things) how I could count people in the room
an ultrasonic distance sensor
get a minion that will count them, its probably the most reliable way
Wait for Xiaomi's new sensor
Do you actually need to know how many people in the room?
Or spend a fortune on Xandem
Elaborate please
what's that sensor?
camera and AI
it'll be a way to know if the room is occupied or not
umm I find that could be quite reliable... but I don't like too much the fact of having cameras inside the house
Ah, yes, that one
What's the purpose of knowing that?
there is that, yeah
to have the lights not turning off while I'm in the room without moving too much
What do you do if you're not moving?
reading? playing piano? maybe just speaking with somebody else on the table/sofa?
I haven't tried yet the motion sensors, but I understand you need to move quite a lot... like when you go to a toilet and the lights turn off while you're there
That's just shitty coding
Door was closed and motion continued, until the door opens the room must be in use
It's utterly lazy thinking to go - no motion == no person
I almost never close doors in the living room (unless you mean for the toilet, which yeah I had that in mind)
Our living room door hasn't been closed in years ๐
and my example related to a typical toilet in a bar or something like that ๐
For now you need lots of sensors and lots of logic
Once mmWave sensors become available at sane prices then you'll have more options
You could do pressure sensors in the sofa/chair without much trouble. And combine them with motion sensors. And if you watch TV, don't let lights go off if TV is on.
Load cells are the best way of determining if furniture is in use - and you can even probably tell who/what
oh interesting
Oy, mutt! Get off my chair!
My living room logic is 4 motion sensors reporting motion without any logic or automation attached. Then I use 'ok google, turn off the lights' instead. ๐
any example of those devices so I can research more?
Most load cells are things hooked up to ESP type devices
Aka #diy-archived territory with ESPHome or Tasmota
Depending on your sofa I'd go the easy route and hook up a bed pressure sensor like this: https://github.com/eoncire/HA_bed_presence But instead of ESPHome I would use an Aqara contact sensor.
I love those sensors. Here is one I put into my door lock to know if door is locked or not: https://imgur.com/a/IOaa3Ig
well, I guess I'll buy a couple of motion sensors and will see how I do with ti.. unfortunately those door sensors aren't available in amazon uk and not sure where else I could buy these kind of things in Ireland
www.aliexpress.com and wait a month? ๐
I always forget about that option!
exactly the same when I order something there and I forget that I did ๐คฃ
Quit common that, yes. https://www.banggood.com/ and https://www.gearbest.com/ are other sites that probably ship to Ireland. A bit more expensive perhaps.
Yeah, I used gearbest for my roborock a few years ago, forgot about it!
This seems like a weird product. When would you need to see lux on a display? It's cool that it does but I would rather have lux in small numbers and temperature and humidity in large: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003246456350.html?
What are the vibration sensors for BTW?
Well... some people attach it to their washing machine to have it notify when done but that's much better solved with a power meter (smart plug that measures Watt).
I've had a vibration sensor connected to HA for years now but haven't found a use for it yet. ๐
Wow didn't know such a smart plug exists... That could work with my piano!
You didn't say your piano was electric. ๐
True ๐
washing machine, bed, toilet seat
Yeah, I've read people use them for the toilet seat. The WAF on that one is probably poor but I haven't seen pictures of it.
How sensible are they? Would it measure something if you place it in the floor for example?
depends on the floor
and the number of elephants in your home
aqara one has various sensitivity settings and it can be very sensitive
Looks like there are zigbee mmwave sensors on aliexpress already that are not too expensive: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003461158730.html
buy one and let us know how bad it is
yes, do it @fervent ocean
Tuya: We know the Zigbee spec is more like vague guidelines, but even that was too much like hard work
it has fall alarm tho
It's probably just an alarm if it falls down from the ceiling
The elderly dude on the floor in the picture is probably just picking it up
maybe its fail alarm but they did a typo
Nah, in that case it'd never stop going off... oh, hang on
What are the weird blue things on it?
Yeah, same as you'd mount a flush mounted spot
Or a downlight
I found it before, but not sure if I wanna spend 100โฌ just on that ๐
I spent almost 400 on lights though ๐ค
Hi Guys, I'm looking for suggestions for smartlocks that work with HA. our house lock looks like this, which makes it incompatible with most locks...
https://cln.sh/LrpKcl <- photo of our Corbin Russwin lock
Ideally it would be awesome to have a lock with all the features of Lockly Vision (fingerprint, fob/key backup, & code). Ideally ZWave would probably be best?
Are the majority of smart doorbells wifi or ethernet/poe?
Wondering if I should run ethernet while I can, currently have a wired ring that just takes 24V
Run it, you can use the same wires for a standard 24V doorbell after all
Sure, terminated or un-terminated?
switchbots work great, maybe need the solar adapter for them additionally.
and also the configuration with 4 bots on a single rail is quite awful (4 curtains on one rail) - one needs to make the open/close sequences manually in ha, accounting for 50% as closed if the first one should stay closed etc...)
it's also worth noting that the included wheels do not fit standard ikea rails unfortunately. the smaller wheels fall off on one side and the bigger ones just dont fit.
I put a dremel to work and made the big ones fit.
all in all a good buy though
Why haven't they made switchbots on ZigBee yet?
spent the last three days trying to figure out why my Sonoff RF bridge was not picking up my fan remote.....just looked up the FCCID and the remote is 303mhz. :/
What's the recommended hardware to run a HA+zigbee network? I might segregate that from my unraid dockers
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Mine comes in today!
Lots of great fanless minicomputers
And laptops
Used is always great
I run my ha between two hosts, one miniitx j4105 and one dell r510
I could always use another desktop for it I guess
Unfortunately the unraid server is too convenient lol
My first server was freenas
I had no idea what was going on and never wanted to touch it
Unraid was sooo much nicer
Why not a Pi though? I haven't noticed any issues when booting off an nvme drive.
Subpar storage / networking for a pi3, no scalability for a pi4
Let's not pull power subsystem into this
Pi4, booting off a usb3 nvme enclosure, with a poe hat ๐ 's fiiiiine ๐
Fair enough, I'm prepared to look for alternatives when my automations get too large for it to handle.
A pi4 + nvme + Poe hat will usually end you in more capable hardware at the same price
Not when you paid nothing for the pi4 + hat though
I like how unraid only needs a coordinator for zigbee
Yeah, I bought a j1900 with 2xm2slots and SSD +8gb ram for $100
no need for storage on the pi though if you already have a 24/7 machine 
If/when I need to replace, I'll likely look for an old rack-mounted server to run it on. Get some ESXi goodness going
Lots of cheap e5-26xx v2 or v3 systems
Aye, but for now something like that just seems a bit overkill
That would also mean I'd need to do some... Trickery with my zigbee network ๐ Rack's in the garage, which is a seperate building. And pretty much all of the zigbee gear is in the main house.
I tried to place the rack in my office, but the wife was having absolutely none of that ๐
So.. One garage, one man-cave-ish-rec-room? ๐
you just drive there, watch some tv and drive back home. right?

Any recommendation for cheap zwave or zigbee thermostats in Canada?
my budget is pretty low. I guess I would like about 60$ cad or less for 1.
I guess there's not many cheap one out there. I'm asking just in case.
I'm keeping an eye on online used markets too.
I'm probably going to use temp sensors plus zigbee relays for the zone input. Full HA control of my heating system
do you mean like your own thermostat? controlling the 240v power with relays?
Pretty much. I would use it for hydronic heating, not electric, but same idea
All a thermostat is is a programable relay
yeah. I was wondering if the insurance would refuse to pay if there's a fire or something.
but those relays are certified, right? maybe that's enough.
i just use my motion sensors as temp sensors
a relay board and a esp is enough to control my floor heating zones
Eh, any of the zigbee stuff is questionable in terms of insurance
really? even if sold in local stores?
Just a guess, no idea
But for electric heating I would try to find a line level zigbee themostat
Might want to consider a wifi model, I can't really find my zigbee options
I was wondering if it would make sense to use an esp board and try to jump the power of my current thermostat buttons.
yeah I saw the Stelpro. not super cheap. but I can bring them with me if I move.
I don't know much about electronics. I wonder if I take a tiny wire and pulse/short the input and output of a button, if it would make the thermostat go up 1 value.
I would guess the buttons use a low voltage and not the 240v ๐
$105.56 USD per thermostat is not cheap. but could be an investment.
one guy on facebook is selling some 60$ CAD each. but there's always the risk or getting ripped off.
maybe I should just buy 1. and buy the others if it works and the others are still available.
apparently the channel named #hardware-archived is the correct place to discuss hardware.. who would've though it? not me apparently
hey guys. no idea where to ask, so why not try here.
I'm looking for a battery backup / UPS hat or module of some sort for my pi 4b running home assistant. But specifically, I want something which can survive somewhat harsh conditions without deciding to go up in flames. So li ion or lipo is probably not gonna be the way to go. I was thinking maybe NiMH? All I need is like 5 minutes running off the battery, to be able to warn the user and shut down properly. Any ideas?
On a Pi4 a decent sized USB C PD battery bank may work
Otherwise, something like https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi-power-supplies/products/uninterruptible-power-supply-ups-hat-b-for-raspberry-pi maybe
I'm going to plug 2x SDR-RTL USB devices into my HA, but one is already running 433Mhz and I want the 2nd one to run at 917Mhz... Any idea how I can get HA to do this?
Well, HA wouldn't do that - the software interacting with the stick would
What are you planning on using?
apparently the channel named hardware is the correct place to discuss hardware.. who would've though it? not me apparently
for a second I thought you were talking about me ๐
@winged knoll Using this one at the moment - https://github.com/thejeffreystone/hassio_addons
How do y'all mount your sensors (e.g. Aqara temp/humidity)? I'm hesitant to use the included adhesive mounting tape because I tend to move things around a lot (also, I would have to replace the tape when the battery needed changing).
specifically wondering about magnetic mounting
No, no, lol.
Possibly, but there's always the problem that you don't know what you're getting. Some power banks are great, and some have absolutely nothing in the way of safety / protection circuitry, along the lines of 'just smack a buck boost convertor onto an 18650, add the most basic charging circuit you can, and hope for the best'. And many don't advertise whether they even support both trickle charging the battery and running the load simultaneously. Because, well, that's not usually a major selling point.
This might work. It seems the newer LiFePO4 cells are pretty safe, at least compared to older Li ion and lipo batteries. So pared with one of those, I guess it's probably fine.
I still kinda wanna steer away from anything li. But all the other alternatives just seem a bit shit. NiMH doesn't hold charge and can't really be trickle charged from what I've read. Then there's lead acid or NiCd which have horrible energy densities, and their own complications.
found some ceramic disc magnets in my toolbox and they stick to the sensor and the dishwasher, but not the inside walls of the fridge or mini fridge
suction cup?
hey all. looking for a power sensor (wifi, zigbee, anything really) with a SENSITIVE power (watts) attribute. i've tried 3 different power switches so far, and none of them are sensitive enough to pick up the power my small appliance uses
when my device is "on" it's using 0.3-0.5 watts, and when it's off, it's using 0.2 to 0.3 watts
i really need something with at least 2-3 more decimal points
Hey. Helping a friend look for some smart RGB bulbs for his room. They need to be WiFi since heโs using Google Home, and they need to be rated for 220V electricity. The 220V bulbs are scarce on Amazonโฆ. Any help would really be appreciated!
Not sure if this will do the job, but take a look at this Shelly Uni. Apparently it can measure power. https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-uni-smart-home-automation-device/
Would anyone else know how one can integrate 2x SDR-RTL USB devices with HA, both using different frequencies?
Thanks I will check it out!
Thereโs plenty of 220-240v bulbs when you donโt look on Amazon usa. But if heโs looking at bulbs to put in google home then why not use home assistant to bridge them through?
Do I need Aqara's hub to connect this to a HomeAssistant-loaded Mac mini? Or can I put a Zigbee stick in it and connect/manage directly thru HomeAssistant? https://www.aqara.com/eu/product/tvoc-air-quality-monitor
I recently bought some strip lights from lidl, is there a way to upgrade the firmware without their hub? I have it configured with mqtt2zigbee
I have about a dozen sensors. It really all depends on what they are. Leak sensors sit near/under water sources. Door sensors I have mounted with double-stick tape for the sensor and Velcro for the magnet (so things line up properly). For temp sensors, theyโre so small and inconspicuous that I just sit them away from a window/light source, and let them do their thing. The old motion sensor went up on the wall w/double-stick tape.
Hope that helps.
I have a HUSBZB-1 serving up both Zigbee and ZWave and donโt need Aqaraโs hub. That said, I havenโt tried that specific hardware.
Anybody here move from a PI4 SD Card platform to an SSD? Iโm looking for an enclosure that would fit this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XLAZODE and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5IB20Q
Any recommendations for cheap live view cameras I can use in the HA dashboard?
Currently have amcrest camera but don't need anything crazy
#cameras-archived would suit better (also read topics and try the search too)
Thanks, didn't see that category
Does anyone know if there's like, a big zigbee button on the market for sale
For whatever reason my cat likes to annoy the hell out of me until I turn the air purifier in my room full blast, so i want to teach her to turn it on herself whenever she wants
I was thinking of something like one of those speaking pet buttons
How big do you need it to be? Cats can be pretty dextrous to get what they want
E.g. one of the IKEA Shortcuts buttons is definitely tappable with a paw.
Hm would you mind sending a picture of the one you have in mind
i would really appreciate it
(Source: Fostered a cat, kept wondering why music was playing everywhereโshe'd tap the top of the HomePod, and press the Shortuts button to turn on/off the lights.)
I don't have one handy, but they're on the website
oh yeah i am just worried there are different models
some of which aren't tappable with a paw
No there aren't. Just the one model of Shortcuts button
It's a large flat surface and the whole of it is the button
(Large as far as some buttons go anyway)
Sweet seems like exactly what i want
I just hope it doesn't require a lot of pressure to press
"teach" and "cat" usually don't belong in the same sentence
maybe a motion sensor
My cat liked to sit on the UPS that powers my network equipment/cable modem and would, without fail, press the power button and turn it all off. It wasn't a big button, so weird how she always used to press exactly that location
well, cats somehow figure it all out themselves if they are interested personally
yeah they love to press the "button" on these sort of devices, i think they either find it satisfying to press it or to distract you for attention
oh well rip not sold here
only the round circular ones and the on off ones
Xiaomi have a round button which is also an entirely tappable surface.
Usually if the cat sees you do it, and it achieves a result it desires, it will "learn" the behaviour. But, there's no guarantee
Yup, that looks like mine!
Awesome thanks again
The buttons are cheap enough and repurpose-able enough for it to be worth a shot.
Does anyone run a Zigbee USB stick AND a Hue Bridge concurrently? Do they interfere with each other?
Two meshes makes little sense
It's for when I eventually get a Zigbee device that won't connect to the Hue Bridge
Move everything off the hue bridge
Which may never happen, but I figured I'd be prepared
The problem with that is the integration with Hue and Google is very good. Right now there are issues using Google with HA through NabuCasa
As long as they won't interfere with each other I'm fine.
There are no issues using ZigBee devices through ha using Google
Best regards someone with 120+ ZigBee devices
I can control my lights fine through either screen or voice
get a Tuya device and you'll reach that point quickly
May I DM you for more details?
I didn't want to clog up chat. sorry. The etiquette of this server is very different than that of other servers I'm in
I mean about replies, pings, DMs, etc
So, I signed up for HA cloud so I can use my Google Home to control my lights. There is a decent amount of lag (4-6 seconds) but I'm ok with that (some of it I'm sure is the voice recognition to Google Cloud). The issue is that about 25% of the time I get an error and the device fails to respond.
I have never had issues, but I dropped nabu casa
Hmm. I tried doing it without it but my router does not like to forward ports, apparently.
I tried to follow the steps of a guide and then I couldn't connect to the HA unit except through SSH
Unless you are behind cgnat it should be a breeze, and if SSH worked over the internet you should be fine
Unless your ISP blocks port 443
Which is odd
Doubtful. I have Spectrum
They're slow and expensive, but reliable and pretty flexible.
I guess I'll try again. I need to use the written guide instead of the YT video.
But back to the question, I have a Hue Bridge and I'll have a SONOFF Zigbee stick in 2 weeks. If they play nice together, I can just leave things as is.
Unless you use overlapping channels, sure
But again
Makes no sense to have two mesh
You will have a worse experience
No
I should have specified "from the phone app"
If they're on different, non-overlapping channels, then they won't interfere
My raspberry pi 4b+ fell and the SD card holder broke. I want to download HA and adjust the startup so it reads my SSD. Not the SD card. Like itโs non-replaceable fixable. However, I made it work a month ago. And now I have no idea. Please help with links if anyone had this problem. Make it an assumption that itโs reading SD card. I canโt use a temp one to download the correct the EEPROM like in the video. Iโm 1 in a million case and stuck on troubleshooting this. Everything on the pi works perfect but it fell and that SD CARD reader snapped. Again lmk
Hi! I'm looking for a smart plug which I can use without a gateway/hub device. Currently I'm loooking at DSP-W118, which from what I can see, is possible to be used via "mydlink", furhter integrated to IFTTT, which would then furhter be integrated to Home Assistant. What I'm slightly concerned about is the seeming lack of compatibility with other solutions; meaning that I would be at mercy for continued support from Dlink (Which it seems that they have had an incident with before).
Does anyone here know of a good smartplug that works with or without a local hub?
I personally own a Philips Hue Bridge already, but one of the sites I will install a smartplug at does not have one.
What's the intention of the smart plug and why does that need to be in home assistant?
If youโre not in the USA/ if you get lucky otherwise the TP Link plugs are wifi and local access supported
Anyone know why, in a six pack of ZigBee bulbs, 2/6 just won't let me adjust the lighting entity? Even after deleting and factory resetting, the same 2 just don't let me even turn them off in the HA app.
The app says the device has no entities, but the ZigBee interview blinks the light so it's clearly controlling something..
Nvm I just needed to reset the server ๐
No, you can do anything nabu casa does yourself
Wondering if homelab that runs HA and related services needs any kid of higher grade hard drive
I'm eyeing NVMe WD Blue but i'm not sure if it will make for long
It can run on spinning disk if you wanted, itโs not as dependant on speed as other things. Though of course ssd helps (though not to the amount that would kill it anytime soon)
I'd love to run nvr for 3 cameras on this server too, so that's why I'm afraid about longetivity of wd blue
Put cameras on spinning rust then
Faster disk is always preferable
The thing most users overlook is however data resiliency
I.e local raid / mirroring, and offsite backup
Was thinking about backing up data at S3 or azure blob, but only last few days as personally we don't need to much of recordings
Hi all. Wondering if a 2gb ram Pi 4 will be okay for Home Assistant (w/ Adguard) or if I should use a more powerful machine. Just getting started and do not have any other integratons yet
Depends on the add-ons, but it'll be ok to get started
Any add-ons that you recommend? (I have a couple diy weather stations I'll be adding to it)
I don't use HAOS...
That said, do yourself a favour and install and configure the SSH add-on so you can fix things when you've broken it
Does it matter if I already have SSH access to the pi hosting ha?
Are you running the "blessed" Supervised install trap?
I love your hate on HAOS
I don't hate HAOS
You should see me when I like something
I hate them both equally,one of them is just shitter than the other
I was playing with Home Assistant through DietPi on an Odroid C2. Installed over Python3. Not supervised
What's your method of choice granting remote access to your HA globally? VPN server at home? Reverse Proxy?
why not both?
Dunno, I'm beginner
Going full Homelab would be ideal for me if I found solution to host email server outside home on cheap
Sounds like a controversy to learn more about
haters be hatin'
dont do email server on residential internet lines
while some prefer to only expose /api/webhooks
I like to access the ui so i use a proxy
but i also like to have my mobile phone use my internet and enjoy having adblock via vpn
so in my setup vpn+proxy is in effect
waitโฆ why are we talking vpn and proxy in #hardware-archived ?
this is not the place ๐
Protonmail can host your domains email
I do that, and run a bridge at home
hey guys I want to add ledstrips to my kitchen, so I ordered two 5 metre ledstrips rgbww on ali express.
The question now is, what kind of controller do I need? I prefer zigbee.
Gledopto
I have a 6 gledopto controllers in my bathroom because i have 6 spots. But they dont remember the brightness setting after being turned off and on again with the switch
So I'm not sure if thats a Gledopto thing
That's an epic way of breaking your Zigbee mesh
So, use smart switches/dimmers and don't use smart bulbs
Or, if you must, keep the power on to the smart bulb and use binding to have the switch control the light directly
How does that work. I went for smart spots to control color. And I want the switch to control the on/off state
Never heared of 'binding'
#zigbee-archived can explain binding, but it allows (where supported) one device to control another
IMO yes, but the #zigbee-archived channel has a pinned message listing known working hardware
Alight, thanks
anyone has a sugestion of a sensor for the garden to check if there is enough water on the soil (and maybe other information) and that is compatible with HA?
Thanks @winged knoll, it's bluetooth right? I heard that the MiFlora is known for having very bad connection. Anyone knows if this is suitable for a large zone? I would like to use it not in a vase but in a soil with about 60cm by 2.50m
anyone have Smart Door locks that they like?
Hey @winged knoll , this Hue Outdoor sensor is a verry nice piece of kit. Sensor range is amazing, actually its a bit too good. Solid and heavy feeling, for $50. Thanks again for the tip.
That's why you'd use it with ESPHome
I like the standard schlage ones. I've had mine for going on 5 years. BUT..the finish on the dark bronze one tends to flake. They sent me a warranty exchange..and the new one is flaking 2 years in. Besides that, its great.
mmm - I'd almost be tempted to try to knock it off and paint it them, but that might just void the warranty outright
I love how the August keep it so low-profile, simple, and clean looking.
https://i.imgur.com/JhxQQdx.jpeg
This looks like one of the Schlage's
SCHLAGE Connect Smart Deadbolt with Century trim in Satin Nickel, Zigbee Certified - BE468GBAK CEN 619
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07H3P3JKG?tag=price1314203-20&ascsubtag=ps-dns-568d6b6af1e12ae786461d06-2-10939567&th=1
it's ALSO $200
tbh though - that August + Keypad + Connect adapter is much sleeker looking for only $60 more
https://smile.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-Connect-technology/dp/B0846DJHHS
I partly like the idea of the Zigbee Schlage - because I can feel PRETTY confident I could use it offline if I wanted
with either Zigbee or PIN code type stuff
"connected" like the August one I always wonder if my internet is out - am I going to be stuck with it not working?"
If we go with looks only, the Danalock is the best I've seen (at least online). I'm still very much split on the idea of having the door unlock remotely
hmm - seems like around $200 is fairly standard though - for "connected" smart locks.
Maybe a bit cheaper for more "PIN based smart"
that Danalock looks pretty nice too
https://smile.amazon.com/Danalock-Danapad-Bluetooth-PIN-Keypad/dp/B07B8TJ7TW?th=1
seems about on par with August in the looks
Any reccomendations for a wifi temp / humidiity sensor?
https://esphome.io/components/sensor/xiaomi_ble.html if you don't mind not WiFi
Zigbee is always a great option
Sepcifically dont want Zigbee here
I have a zigbee network but it doesnt extend to my garage (at the end of the garden). For simplicity Im going to keep everythign in there wifi based I think
Save me setting up a second zigbee network and all the hassle
Then try the link
There are a bunch of 433mhz temp displays that show inside and outside temperature. Are there any with zigbee?
Well ESPHome is effectively a BT to WiFi bridge there
Didn't know any better place ๐
But thanks, I see your POV
In general - ESPHome is a basic platform for ESP32 and similar variants - which have a built in Wifi chip. So most of the ESP* things are essentially just "wifi" not Zigbee or others
that specific Xiami_BLE one is also designed to use Bluetooth-Low-Energy as well as Wifi.
Hi folks. Iโm trying to use an Aqara vibration sensor to detect when my clothes dryer is running and Iโm finding itโs not quite sensitive enough to do the job reliably. Sometimes it works, but other times, it stops detecting vibration mid-way through a cycle. To the best of my knowledge, Iโve set the sensitivity as high as I can. So, does anyone have any creative solutions to help?
I was wondering if perhaps there was a way to amplify the vibrations from my dryer to a point where the sensor would detect them on a consistent basis.
Well, you could always stick it on a spring which is stuck to the dryer. Personally, I've found monitoring the power to be a lot more accurate though
Was going to suggest that. Easy to tell when a dryer is using power or not using power
Otherwise if you want to be creative if thereโs a light on the dryer to say itโs active could sense that lol
Thought about a spring. I guess I just need the right kind of spring.
I donโt think power monitoring is an option for my dryer, as itโs a 240 V electric dryer and I donโt think we have any smart plugs that are compatible with that here in Canada.
You can get clamps to put on the wires to check power
I might look into that. A spring might be the cheaper and simpler option, though.
I donโt get why North America does 120v for everything except certain appliances which become 240v
Itโs weird
More prone to failure though
Any suggestions on a good compatible clamp?
So I just bought zigbee usb stick but my computer that runs my home assistant is in my garage so I need a few repeaters. What would be my best option? I have no other hubs than the usb. I was thinking of smart plugs but im not sure which is the right way to go
Try using Zigbee2MQTT instead on another device.
It would be best for your co-ordinator to be central in your home, and Z2M is ideal for this.
Its on a virtual machine on my server PC so I can't really centralize it. I think I'm using zigbee home automation right now.
Rosemary is saying to use the coordinator on another machine like a raspberry pi in your home and run zigbee2mqtt
Yup, that's exactly what I'm saying.
Put Zigbee2MQTT on another machine like a Raspberry Pi, and put that in your house. Then run the MQTT co-ordinator on your Home Assistant device and voilร , profit.
#zigbee-archived has some pinned posts which are very useful
Alright ill have to look at them thanks
North America does three-phase power on powerlines, and a house gets 2/3 phases
for regular power devices, you use 1-phase, and for high power devices (washer, dryer, ovens, air conditioners, etc) you use two phases
you can get all three phases, but most houses don't need it
Doesnโt make it any less weird though
We were 2/3 phases before 2/3 phases was cool.
I can't trust Google. What do the home assistant enthusiasts prefer for light switches? ZigBee, zwave, or other? And of those, what is a recommended brand, model, and purchase site?
I apologize if this is well documented somewhere, but I have a baby and a toddler. My free time for searching these things is limited. And if you are in a discord with the people who have experience, why not ask them? ๐
Thanks in advance for any information.
Extra info, I just ordered a conbee ii USB to get some ZigBee bulbs working that I recently purchased. I got USB because it might be easier to sell since I'm considering ordering HA yellow.
I couldn't wait until June to change the color on the bulbs. Two were defaulted to soft white and the other two are bright white. It bugs me lol.
I spent a lot of time researching switches after the ones I purchased came with instructions to not use them on a bathroom fan, which was my entire reason for buying them
So I get that you have limited time, but that experience made me realize how they all can and cant do certain things and you have to match the device choice to your specific requirements
But if you wanna just yolo it the zooz products arent perfect, but seem good quality and good value
As for zwave and zigbee, i have devices of both and havent been able to find an advantage of one vs the other
Just looking to control front and back of house security lights and a few certain lights in the house. I'll check out zooz. Thanks!
Cost for zigbee is smaller than zwave, however zigbee is subject to interference from 2.4ghz wifi
Zigbee is generally more fun to say though ๐คทโโ๏ธ
Hey there!
Anyone use opentherm for heating controll with HA?
I will have a remeha boiler, with 3 separet room/zone, and 4 radiator.
What kind of extra hardware you think I will need?
Probably radiator actuators but hould I go with remeha own thermostat, or something other?
I don't have a clear picture in my head about the heating / cooling so any input is helpfull. (I also going to have an AC for cooling)
Anyone using a Shelly relay with a momentary bell press mechanism and manage to make automations using the shelly.click event?
hello
i got a RaspBee 2 for my homeassistant raspberry.... i found some hints that i need to add some configs to the "config.txt"...... but where is this "config.txt" file (i got ssh access)?
i know this is a bit of a stretch since it's not HA related but does anyone know of a diy smartwatch or other wearable?
i kinda know about 2 but they aren't DIY enough. you have to assemble them but that's it really. the lilygo t-watch 2021 and watchy
voltlog feautred one recently
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNtdHYDsplc&ab_channel=VoltLog
also you can find some on ali.
Hi everyone! Novice in HA here) Has anyone faced an issue with bluetooth interface not being recognized by OS? HA is installed as VirtualBox VM, adapter - Atheros 3012. Adapter is added to VM but bluetoothctl scan says "No default controller available". I'm seeking the way to diagnoze what is the issue but can't find, how to check if the OS recognizes the adapter in the first place..
That sounds like #330990055533576204
Was thinking where to put it, here or there, redirecting then
Hey there!
I would like to use measure CO just to be safe.
What kind of sensor do you recommend?
Would nice if it is hardwired (maybe esphome based) and zigbee(or wifi).
Hi guys, I'm setting up HA on Raspberry Pi for my new home. And was wondering what's the best solution for my Wi-Fi? It's a 200 m2 home, two floors and I think I definitely need a Mesh system but I heard mesh Wi-Fi is not good for IoT devices as they don't separate 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz SSIDs and that makes the devices to struggle connecting to the Wi-Fi!
Most IoT devices don't support 5 GHz so it's fine - as long as you don't configure the AP to bump things between the frequencies
@winged knoll Correct but I meant because the router/Mesh system doesn't have separated SSIDs for 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz then Iot Devices which only work with 2.4 struggle to connect to the router, I have this issue with my current Virgin Media router as well.
Can't say I have any issues with that
Iโve had issues when they have the auto steering stuff, so trying to force to 5Ghz
But otherwise no issues either using linksys velop myself
you can set up most router to brodcast 2.4 and 5GHZ on separate ssid.
Yeah, turn off the steering and there should be zero issues
Iโve got them on the same ssid and no issues at all
Depends on the brand and what settings
I had a d link modem/ router and that had a โsmartโ mode which ended up kicking a lot of IoT devices off
that is kind of smart. It recognised which device is IoT which is not. ๐
Well more so tried to shove 2.4 devices to 5, most 2.4 said hell no and dropped out
I think you guys are missing the point, most routers do have the functionality to broadcast on separate SSIDs but not Mesh Systems. For example TP-Link Deco M4 is a good mesh system but it doesnt let you broadcast on 2.4 on a separate SSID
I need a mesh system for my house as it's a two floor of 200m2 .
My mesh system allows that
Both my Linksys mesh system and my fathers TP-Link system supports splitting it
@winged knoll what is the brand and model of your system?
I just use wired APs 
@fringe moon can you please tell me what models of the Mesh systems you use?
I use Linksys Velop, my father has TPLINK Deco M4
it supported splitting when I set it up a year ago atleast
Are you sure you even need it split though
A good mesh system should be happy to just leave some stuff on 2.4
Damn that Asus one is so expensive ๐ฆ
@proven girder true, that's the right way, but most of them just kick the IoT devices off the network.
Sounds like you have some sort of smart routing going on dropping the connection
TPLINK M4 is the one I was looking at, but there doesnt seem to ahve the feature anymore
I am a owner of a Animus Heart & Smartthings. Since the Smartthings does not work well in my case towards HA and Animus is just obsolete... I am considering the Fibaro Home Center.
I am not sure to get the full version or lite version of the hardware. Reason for that is that i can buy zigbee usb dongle.. Do you have experience with fibaro home center? Does it communicate well with known equipment?
A good workaround is to run a mesh system for regular house
and seperate APs for IoT
says the guy with 40 access points in boxes in his garage
But that would separate my networks, I need access to my main network as well.
My phone is connected to the main network, TV and my computer too, it would be a hell to be able to connect to the AP network just to manage the IoT devices. Unless I'm seeing this wrong!
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/fibaro/ is Local push, but apparently is Z-Wave, not Zigbee
IMO there's no good reason to buy one of those
can any recommend a good in wall dimmer switch? my old one just died on me. zwave or zigbee dosnt matter as I can use either. right now I have more zigbee though. I am from the USA, budget I dont really care about so long as its reliable
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
I have edited my question above with a bit more info
It doesn't if you know how to do routing
Fair enough, but which one would be cheaper for me, to get APs or one Deco M9 which would resolve all the problems?
No idea, you can get used access points for free probably
If you know where to look
And if you disable routing in the mesh points and connect everything to the same layer2 there isn't any internal routing involved either
Since iot only needs 2.4 you can get away with 10-15+ years old network gear
If you were in Norway you could have had some for free from me
I need to get rid of them at some point

haha thanks man, I'll figure something out, I still have time before I move into my new home
any tips for this one? ๐
Thank you. My entire house got Fibaro Smoke Alarms.. Guess i love how Smartthings handles them.. If only I got smartthings to work.. but that integration is so broken.
Well, you can go direct with #zwave-archived
@novel turret
Can the CT clamp sensor go on the power cord proper?
I don't exactly own my appliances and don't want to to break the tamper seal
it has to be on the hot wire only since clamping the hot and the neutral wires would give you a value of 0 I believe
The dryer likely has a dedicated circuit so you might be better off doing it in the breaker box if you feel qualified to cut off the power from outside and putting it on the hot side in there for that specific circuit
if you have the slightest hesitation for that then I'd say get an electrician or don't do it
The breaker box will an even bigger issue #apartmentliving
Many people use ESPHome with vibration sensors mounted on the side of the dryer
I have a number of wifi lights that continuously disconnect despite bing being near the wifi point. When I am close with my phone they seem to work fine. But as soon as my phone moves away they disconnect. Anyone got any ideas on why this is happening and how I can fix it?
You can buy yourself a little circuit box, and build something which has on one side a plug and on the other a socket. You can use a power cord for this. Use cable glands for a proper strain relief . Then do everything you have to do in the box.
Do everything on your own risk, if youโre not sure what you do. Get an electrician
For a dryer? Why not just use a smart plug with power measurement?
(there may be some history here I don't know about ๐ )
He said his power plugs are not suported or something like that
But he could build an adapter inside the box to another plug system
Hey guys, I've been struggling getting my aqara temperature sensor to update. It's typically only updating when the value changes by 5-7 degrees.
Has any had better luck with other sensors? Do you guys like the sonoff temperature sensors at all?
How are you integrating those into HA?
Is that 5-7 F, or C, or some other scale?
Using Zigbee2MQTT I get updates that can be a fraction of one degree C
Sorry F. They're it's a ZigBee sensor. I'm using a nortech USB dongle to pick up the device. I'm not using a aqara hub.
Yeah, it's Zigbee2MQTT. It reports in fraction of the degree, but I can't seem to get it to update in any smaller interval than 5-7F
poor mesh coverage ? interference? paired to a router that gets turned off regularly?
Poor mesh coverage is a possibility, but it doesn't seem to matter when I move it closer to it's paired device.

Xiaomi devices don't change their parent
Moving them doesn't help, and probably makes things worse
I guess I'll just have to let my wife know I'm going to need to add some ZigBee plugs or something. Oh no.
@winged knoll sorry one more question, are you using an aqara hub?
I was just wondering what protocol you hub was using. But that's fine. I should have clarified my question. My bad.
Thinking of Aeotec 700 for zwave.. Any suggestion for zigbee? until recently i though zigbee was just a different use of wifi ๐
Nope
@wise gorge Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
What's the best split system for use with HASS, I see Daikon units. I want more than just an IR interface, hopefully something with Local Wifi
Depends where in the world you are
@slate cipher Australia
Look up Airtouch
I was looking for a Split System Brand, rather than something to integrate to. This is a brand new installation for a single bedroom.
Ah right, well if you want local with Daikin then I suggest getting one of the adapters listed on this page. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/daikin/
I will be getting a couple for the splits in my place, as well as an airtouch for my ducted system
Has anyone had an issue with Zooz light switches going unavailable after turning them on/off like 20-30 times over a 10 minute period testing some automations?
13 of my switches went unavailable all at once pretty much.
Have you checked the list on home assistant integrations @fast bane
Yes but often custom components are good too
Yes, i am somewhat of a custom component maintainer myself
I am sure the aqara stuff has settings to adjust in zigbee2mqtt (edge does for my light switches, motion detectors and door sensors) and on the door and motion sensors I can change the number of digits behind a decimal for better accuracy this is the same for the motion sensors, does the temp ones not have this?
You're sure...?
Hi guys, looking for the options to set up the lights with wireless switch and smart bulb via zigbee hub. The choice so far - Xiaomi gateway 3 + Aqara wireless switch and bulb. Looks like that will work but the main concern is what if the HA or Gateway goes down or whatever wrong happens. I want to leave the dumb switch as a fallback but not sure will it work that way. I guess if the bulb is switched off manually with dumb switch - it resets or it depends on the vendor?
- Smart switches and dumb bulbs
- Use ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT instead of a hub - see #zigbee-archived
- Smart switch with smart bulbs is still a bad option? Even with wireless switches?
- This hub seems to support Z2MQTT so that is the option I could play around, i guess
- if youโre switching the actual power on/ off for the bulb then that can damage a smart bulb (and destroy the connection)
Oh I see. But what if something goes wrong? Is there a safe way to fallback to manual control?
A smart switch can be done manually and still work. A smart bulb should default but it may not
I don't want to touch the wires in my flat since the wiring is 60+ years old ๐ I will definetely use smart switches when I move to the new place.
They should be able to swap straight in/ out
60 years isnโt that bad
If your wiring is crumbling so much you canโt swap a switch then you have far larger issues
Since it means the rest of the wiring is very ehhhh
Admittedly you'll be fine as long as you don't touch any wiring, but even replacing a bulb could result in issues
I remember my first house, where the bulk of the wiring was from when it was built... the electrician commented that a full rewire wasn't just a good idea, it was probably the only way to avoid the house burning down... ๐
Thankfully my apartment is only 15 years old
So wiring shouldnโt be too bad. Before the age of cheap crap jobs, and too young for wiring dying
My first house dated from the 50s
Yes it is and I am well aware of it ๐
It was the house that Jack built in that it had so many damn bodges and really stupid decisions made
Aluminum or copper wires?
Copper, thankfully
But the insulation was more theory than reality, and earth wiring was missing in more than a few places
I had one socket that would only get a working earth if you angled the plug just right
Aluminum wires in my place with no ground line. Russian 60s style. Thankfully the house will be dismanteled in a couple of years and everyone will be moved to the new building
So different bulbs behave differently when the power is shut down? Can't really find any info on that..
No because the general info is donโt turn their power off
If you turn off the power to a smart bulb it's off, powered off, can't function
If you turn off the power to a Zigbee or Z-Wave smart bulb you just broke your mesh
Cutting power to smart bulbs isn't smart 
Yeah, but for the worst case scenario when something goes wrong in the system, I am far away from home and my wife just wants to turn the light on and off
All the more reason for smart switches
Can't agree more but that is for the future place, unfortunatelly ๐ฆ
What's the latest and greatest Z-wave controller one can get for HA in Europe?
#zwave-archived can advise you, but the latest and greatest has issues
You're probably best off grabbing a cheap 500 series stick for now
I like https://z-wave.me/products/uzb/ as it's cheap, but I don't know if it supports the right firmware to allow migration to a 700 series later
Do the Eve Energy UK plugs (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0929GGTJC/ref=emc_b_5_i) work OK with Home Assistant? Specifically curious as this one has power/energy meter and would be nice if that gets exposed to HA.
Thanks @winged knoll, I'm currently using the z-wave stick from my old Hubitat, and it crashes quite often, same as it did on Hubitat. I would have to turn off the z-wave radio, unplug, replug then start again to get devices to work. I've been doing the same in HA, should be automatable
Sheesh, that's ... painful
Yeah, not ideal at all, especially since I'm planning migrating the very expensive Verisure alarm to a self-owned system, would friggin' suck to be stuck out of the house...
Hey Folks, I have some trouble with my already running Home Assistant Integration and Shelly (1 and 2.5) switches. I suddenly have a lot of switches in my homekit named switch.OTA Update and switch.REBOOT and so on. I tried to exclude them within the homekit plugin but it doesnt work
I'm looking for a water valve that I can hook up to a zigbee relay. There are a few wifi options but I don't see anything zigbee in the US. This would be right after my main house shutoff and would trigger when a water sensor goes off
httpswww.amazon.co.ukDrayton-Wiser-Heating-System-ExtenderdpB07D71BPGKref=sr_1_1?crid=39T8ORP
Hello. Which hardware brand would you recommend? I'm familiar with Insteon. My "old" house was 100% Insteon on HCA. For our new home I decided that HA would be more interesting and challenging (fun). We also run Nest with 5 sensors, a few BroadLink outlets.
Depends entirely on:
- For what
- Where in the world you are
- Budget
- For lights, sensors (fire, co2, water, alarm...) IR, we have Ring and Nest, also for duct valves, garage doors etc.
- We are in Frigid, yet beautiful Wisconsin, US
- Budget, not defined but several thousands spent as needed
The reason for most people to go with HA in the first place is to combine the best of each brand
So if you look for something in particular, ask about that one and look for the different options people use
I'm looking for a strong integration with HA so I can do complex automation. I would start with wall switches
Zigbee FTW
Then ask for wall switches for the US and I'm sure people can help out. But going broader than that, it'll be hard
If you go Zigbee and either ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT you can mix brands to suit your needs
Holy shit, this is one badly behaving Tuya smart plug ๐ฎ
SH-OP01, apparently has a hard-coded chinese NTP server IP to it (and actively refuses to use my DHCP Option 42 self-hosted NTP server).
Well, time to mess with routing tables, make it think it's connecting home...
Jesus ๐
So, standard cloud junk then...
And once I no longer have active need for it, look into maybe getting Tasmota on it instead
Ehhh, in my experience, most cloud devices at least respect DHCP Option 42 ๐
Since it's more work to not do it ๐
Interception should be easy enough
Yeah, I've now got it connecting to my NTP with some iptables shenanigans
Still would've preferred not to have to do that though
Hmm.. Is there a non-intrusive way to find out if it's ESP or Realtek?
Mac address
So no esp
Damn
Thank you @winged knoll I'll try Zigbee , do I need a hub to connect to HA? I'm running HA OS on a PI4
Over there....ok, where there? remember I'm new @ HA
DUH... thanks!
No worries, I thought I'd linked it earlier
Hi, sorry but could someone help. I am not able to mount a NFCS drive to hassio, how is that done
If by "hassio" you mean HA OS, I'd ask in #330990055533576204
ok thanks, will try.
anybody here with a recommendation on a well-calibrated temperature/humidity/+ sensor? Found these sonoff ones i bought to be too much of a hassle, unstable and most importantly i'm unsure whether to trust the readings on them.
anyone heard of anybody getting ada working on a pi pico or arduino? i know rhasspy exsists but i was hoping i could get it working on a micro controller as itd be cheaper especially because zero ws are $90 usd rn where you can find them in stock
I've found the Xiaomi Aqara sensors to be ok. Like all cheap sensors though you'll want to ensure you calibrate them if you care about accuracy
How is a calibration possible? With a correction function in home assistant?
Correction can be done via zigbee2mqtt
Is it also possible with ZHA?
Ok its only a constant temperature offset
Yes
I wouldnt make a precise measurement in my test bed either, with them
In my experience the Xiaomi sensors are at worst 0.5-1c off from another sensor another place in the room
So I don't bother
So probably for home automation precise enough
Probably more precise then my philips motion sensors ๐
They show strange sensor values some times, deviating to each other more than two degrees celsius
Maybe i can calibrate them as soon as they are directly conected to HA, i will try it
My Xiaomi devices are all pretty solid in terms of reporting plausible values. Unlike my Z-Wave sensors which have previously reported temperatures hotter than the sun/below absolute zero
I loved my old golf iv, the AC temp sensor was impossible to reach without disassembly of the dash, and it gave off -99c as default when there was any error, so ac never worked, gee thanks VW
At least it wasn't a Renault, where you have to disassemble the car wing and wheel well to replace a headlight bulb
Well, thats bad and the reason why my car has no ac. What you do not have cannot stop working either

has anyone gotten ada working on a few raspberry pis in diffrent rooms that send the data to the home assistant server? or anyone know if theres any documentation on that
#voice-assistants-archived would be the place to ask about that
thanks, didnt see there was a whole channel for that
not sure if this is the correct channel, but I was wondering if there's any way to drive a dot matrix display plugged straight into a Rasp 3b+ running Hassio through the HA interface
looks like it can be done through MQTT, but I'd like to plug it in
No - support for GPIO is going to go away
oh well
wait on raspberry pis as a whole or HA?
oh i got so scared for a sec
that would be horrendous
Sorry for the noob question but I've tried looking in the docs and searching, but sadly haven't found anything yet. I'm new to the home automation game and haven't even downloaded HA yet, but my question is, is there a guide out there or someway to know when a raspberry Pi would work vs when something like the HP micro server is needed? i.e. how can I gauge which hardware specs I would need per what the house has?
Well
Anything is an upgrade from a pi
Especially a pi3
Will give you more flexibility, a usable storage subsystem and proper power options
And expandability
A used minicomputer or laptop are great options
for sure, but surely if you're just running let's say, some lights and a speaker, then you would want an entire server, and I would assume that a Pi 3 or 4 would work
A mini itx system can also double up as a nas and more
A pi will work for most, i will never advice it though
how come?
It's a fickle kids toy, with too many caveats and no way to scale
SD cards die
so would you say a basic micro server with expansion capabilities would be best? Want a more dedicated system than a laptop or desktop
Best is a bit personal, but if you can spec it up, it doesn't hurt
This is not even just "like your oppinion, man". It's the stated intent of the Raspberry foundation. It's an educational tool.
Lots of people recommend using an old laptop, because you get a free UPS.
okay that makes sense, but then how would I know whether the specs of the laptop would be good enough for various appliances
Is it 64 bit capable, and less than 10 years old?
so it's quite bulky, so I think 32GB RAM and an intel i5? if I'm not mistaken
That should be quite sufficient
That will be enough for 20 instances of HA and more
I run HA on an 8 year old i5 laptop, with 8 GB of RAM - and I have a load of capacity left over
why would one need so many instances? or is it just as an example?
but how do you determine the "capacity" of what your system can handle
I run ha + 25 other containers + local backup + cloud backup + multiple other services on a j4105 with 12GB RAM
By looking at the resources?
Heck, i run frigate on that box too
I can see how much RAM is in use, vs cache. How much the CPU is being used, what the I/O load is, etc
sorry know this must be frustrating to try and explain. So I would like to start a business in my country for small scale smart homes and I'm just trying to figure out if it's possible for me, and the only thing confusing me right now is just being able to know how good the hardware specs need to be based on what appliances need to be run
Anything will be more reliable than a pi
But I won't advice anyone to deliver services on home assistant
Because users are idiots
Best regards, someone who has worked with users for 20 years
as in they somehow manage to always break the system? ๐
If you're going to do it, make sure you're using robust non-SD based hardware that you can remote into when things go wrong
that's very understandable, would you not recommend HA due to their constant updates and potential bugs?
Also, many integrations use cloud services. Those cloud services break and it's clearly Home Assistant's fault...
that's good advice thank you!
HA is great because of the updates
Sadly, HA can't stop cloud services from being deprecated, changing their API, etc
I get that fully
surely using lovelace it dumbs down the users ability to break the system?

You have apparently never met users before
The UI allows you to add add-ons that can edit the config files
Plus the UI allows you to remove things, or change settings
I'm currently final year computer science so haven't had the pleasure of dealing with users yet ๐
Trust me, lurk here for a week and you'll see how badly people can screw up the simplest of tasks
Read r/talesfromtechsupport or the Chronicles of George to get some idea
oh my bad, thought it was the user frontend ๐
Hang out in #330944238910963714 and #330990055533576204 for most sanity breakage
It is
but it also allows them to control add-ons or change config?
Yes
I will giver it a look thank you!
that's wild, does it require admin login to be able to do that though?

๐
I take this as a no then?
That's a no
awesome, thank you @fringe moon @winged knoll for your help and answers! greatly appreciate the advice
why do you stay if I may ask?
but surely HA is keeping you here because it's good? or is it just at the point where it's too late to turn back?
You can't pay me enough to touch that game, but then I'm cynical and jaded
I'd do it, for $500 per hour, at a best effort basis
to set it up for someone? ๐
Yes
how long does it take to set up?
10 minutes
And then about 5 years of fiddling
That's optimistic
I'm starting to feel the pain
but that's were the fun begins also
It's great, but before you consider doing paid support for others, live with it yourself for a while
but not if you have to do it for others ๐
users will nag you to install supervisor for them on templeOS
yeah so I am going to set up for myself first and fiddle around, but it's more curiosity if there could be a future with HA to set up for business
There certainly can be
Pricing that to make it work as a business is something most people fail horribly at
Reminds me of the self flaggelation I've heard is great for the mind
it take it HA is the flagellation? ๐
Supporting users is
makes me scared to finish my degree now ๐
just never do tech support
hopefully I won't have to, looking to go into dev side
Just get four credit cards now, you'll be buying fifteen different keyboards within a year
because they wear out or because of those special coding keyboards and funny layouts?
Because programmers are strange creatures who have a mechanical keyboard fetish mostly
I literally have one now ๐ don't you?
noisy?
And feeling
I might enjoy some 1970s IBM keyboards occasionally
But none of those RGB fidget adhd keyboards please


so wild thought, can you not bypass the need to have the cloud subscription by opening your router and accessing the local webpage for the server like that?
thats what usually everyone does. with a tls terminating proxy in between
that one with buckling springs? (I mean the ibm one)
the cloud service is just for users who dont konw how
Or are behind capitalist ISPs
what do you mean?
A lot of isps block outside access, or place you behind CGNAT
Can usually be paid your way out of
surely your router can change that to an extent? at least from fiddling around with my router I've seen options for such
no
tunnels are the only way
you can do traffic via dns
but that is like 56k modem
so generally it's either expensive or takes a bit of work to get it done?
Or it isn't possible
okay, understandable. Not sure if this is blasphemy, but would openhab be better for potential commercial use or is it either or??
And the pace of change there is so slow if stuff is broken, good luck in waiting for the fix
We've seen a lot of people abandon OH to use HA because of that
okay so HA would be the better choice, but is it dumb to even try use HA or start up smart home stuff for others?
Step #1 is you learning enough that you can support others
Step #2 is then to work out how much you'd have to charge
Step #3 is then working out if that makes it a viable business/worth your time
There are people who provide commercial HA support services and apparently make it work
okay, well let me play around with it all and over time see if I can make it work, thank you to everyone for the advice and support
Hello, last night I managed to connect my Nest thermostat to HA (yay) now we have 4 Nest sensors and I'm not sure how to pull them - can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you!
Do you guys have any NUC recommendations?
Not really, trying to not break the bank
Looking for a good value for $200-300, if possible
Should be very doable, I paid $100 for a j1900 AliExpress computer 3 years ago, 8GB ram and SSD
you run only HA-related stuff on it?
I don't run HA on it
But it can run HA and more better than a pi
It's currently my backup router
Do people use these types PCs to run HA? https://www.amazon.com/EliteDesk-800-Mini-Professional-Bit-Multi-Language-English/dp/B07J2TFW5T/ref=sr_1_9?crid=32ZNA0EAW63C8&keywords=nuc&qid=1643207926&refinements=p_36%3A10000-25000%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2421879011&rps=1&s=pc&sprefix=nuc%2Caps%2C89&sr=1-9
yeah i have an elitedesk 800 g2
Seems like a good option. Do you run anything else on it?
yes, a snapcastserver
That will do a lot more too
it's mostly idleing at 9W
So when you install HA on a Rasp Pi (what I have now), you have to run just that OS, so do you run it in a docker on one of these? With just Windows? Sorry, I am not super familiar with that universe.
#449717345808547842 would be preferred
With your favourite Linux distribution as the base os
another supervisor user incoming
i'm running it in a kvm virtual machine
what's the problem with that
i mean it's the recommended way, isn't it
Definitely not
see ๐คฃ
"Home Assistant offers four different installation methods. We recommend using one of the following two methods: " -> Home Assistant Operating System
on the website i mean
That isn't #330944238910963714
ah okay
can't even assemble supervised from those letters
And that is one of two recommended methods
So #330990055533576204 isn't the recommended version
yes
depends on who you ask
๐คข
cough youtube cough
Disgusting
But i think the elitedesk is a good point to start with much better than a raspberry
Yes
but they have a fan and are thus not completely silent, something you have to consider, mine is pretty loud though. i think the fan i got as replacement for the last one which was defect isn't in the best state either
but the nuc that i have which constantly runs on 3600rpm fan speed without workload, i don't know why, is louder
I have rack servers that are less noisy then my core Switches, so noise level is relative
Do you run it with Linux or just Windows? Some of these have Windows on it already
I am guessing some NUCs don't?

get one without windows
you don't even get a nice license sticker nowadays
Make a note of the activation key and blow it away
some of them have their own onboard license hardware but I'm not sure anymore, think I've seen that
maybe its just ms surface devices
I haven't entered a key for years
Think it is tied to serial on some systems
For laptops that is
Windows server i mostly use kms
yeah, autokms.exe lol
I have a whole sticker collection, I recently activated a rpi with windows 11 dev build and a win7 home edition serial from 200something

Iโm really struggling with the motion sensors in my basement. They keep triggering (they go to "clear" for a few milliseconds, then back to "detected") even though nothing is moving or happening down there. Basically they are constantly in the detected state. This appears to be closely related to where I place them in the room. Some locations, typically on a table in the middle of the room, work reliably, but I have yet to find a wall or ceiling I can place them on to have it reliably work. Has anyone experienced this? Are motion sensors sensitive to invisible stuff like electricity/wires or something like that?
What are they?
Maybe if you provide details somebody will know if those particular ones are junk
I have tried several brands, currently using Aeotec SmartThings and Nedis SmartLife.
There are three sensors in three different rooms, with open doors between them. I have a water heater and various other infrastructure down there.
Brick/wood walls, plaster/wood ceilings - nothing out of the ordinary.
I only had mine activated through steam flowing out of a cooking pot
Yeah, thereโs nothing like that. And Iโm having the same problem in all three rooms, although one (the workshop) is by far the worst - most of the time it wonโt even go to "clear" at all in there.
have you tried to put something over them like a towel, too see if it's still happening
I thought I had found some decent placements yesterday, where one was stable and the other two would go through just 2-3 clear/detected cycles before settling on "clear", but today two of them are stuck on "detected" with brief flashes of "clear" inbetween.
No, I spent some time trying to figure out if I could adjust their sensitivity yesterday (didnโt find a solution), but I havenโt tried doing it the manual way ๐
But even if I am able to solve it like that, it doesnโt feel like a proper solution. Iโm really curious what could be triggering them.
Apart from the occasional spider, there should be absolutely nothing moving.
And certainly not in all three rooms
check if they're still doing this if they're totaly blocked
RF interference is always a possibility
Yeah, Iโm almost certain it has to be something like that, I just didnโt know they would be that sensitive to stuff like that.
But yes, checking if it happens when they are covered visually is a good tip - will test it.
Tried taping over one of them, and itโs still stuck on "detected".
do you have motion sensors at other places than your basement which are working?
What's your opinion: will Intel NUC 11 i5 suffice with such services:
- Home Assistant
- Zigbee2MQTT
- NodeRED
- Frigate
- Wireguard
- PiHole
- Vaultwarden
- static site and some web scraping containers
It would be i5-1135G7 with 16gb ram maybe 32
Hey I'm probably the millionth person to ask: but which thermostats for radiators would you suggest for HASS? maybe there are some good cheap ones that are compatible?
Are you running any AI with frigate @feral night? Depending on the number of cameras you probably want a Google Coral to help you out. Otherwise you're probably more than fine
Well, I didn't install anything. I don't even have the NUC yet.
Windows just isn't very good for server stuff. You can do it, but why should you
Any kind of AI would cover 2 cameras, but Coral purchase would not be any problem for me if machine itself would handle
I need to learn about monitoring Docker performance
Coral purchases are a problem in that you quite literally can't find them anywhere. But otherwise performance should be just fine
Anyway, Frigate and any sort of AI is mostly for next year
I'm just evaluating if this nuc will be enough for my needs
So I'm not prsuiting having detection in this nvr
Afaik for a general HA build it'll be just fine
I ran a lot more than that on a lot less
Thanks
Now I've started thinking about i3 cpu, as it's 1/3 cheaper than i5 what do you think?
Ok, I'm sticking to i5
hi, anyone here uses Aqara Mini switch with Conbee 2?
Any reasonably cheap sensors (motion/temp/etc) that are worth buying and connecting to HA without needing a separate hub? What's the current recommendations? Thanks
I've been testing out the Aqara sensors for a day and everything seems great. I'm assuming you are looking for something wifi? You really need zigbee/zwave for battery powered sensors
Does anyone know if there's a way to use a speaker product like alexa/google/homepod and block the telemetry / phone home (and still have it be functional) ?
Like, I imagine you'd lose some functionality for sure, but could you pair it with HA to make up for that lost functionality
It's a cloud-based voice assistant so I think you'd lose Google Assistant if you blocked telemetry
Someone else may know more, but I doubt it's possible
And if you could, you'd lose the part that makes it better than something like Ada
yeah I'm curious if maybe it could still function to relay speech from HA, but maybe it can't interpret any commands
sort of turns it into a one way speaker, but the mic doesn't do anything
or maybe it could pass audio commands to Ada? (i assume that's the HA/home brew equiv to google voice?)
Hey y'all, i am just started up on HA and am using my older gaming PC (i7, 16GB RAM, 256GB SSD). I think it draws too much power and is fairly loud. I'm wondering if I could re-use the parts to cheaply reduce the size/power -- instead of dropping money on a NUC. My current thoughts are to look into Mini ITX boards/builds, has anyone had experience here?
well the biggest change in power draw will be the CPU
doesn't matter so much what form factor motherboard you use
so if you want to switch the CPU to something lower power look up the CPU's TDP, low end options are like 65w i believe, higher end are 95w
that for example has a TDP of 84w
is 54w
sounds average ish
there's the powersupply, too
if it's vastly over powered and inefficient, like a bronze rated power supply
so yeah if i reduce the motherboard i was wondering if that could limit my powersupply size
no the motherboard itself doesn't really draw much power
i forgot when i made it how i calculated the power supply size. I think mine is silver rated? need to double check
and power supplys are pretty universal no matter the motherboard. unless you're using some Dell proprietary stuff
usually people calculate the power supply they need based on the GPU
cause most of the rest of a PC's hardware can operate on pretty minimal power
GPU's are like a mini-computer within your computer and are super power hungry
I think something like that is more about going compact in size, rather than power savings. It's 150w, but a powersupply itself doesn't use any power, except what it loses in inefficiency
yeah, i mean a GPU shouldn't draw much when it's idle, but it's a contributing factor. But if you remove it make sure you have on-board graphics
you can run the machine without any gpu or onboard graphics, but it likely will want you to set that up in the bios first, plus if you have to trouble shoot it later you may have issues
everything sounds loud, at night we can hear it and it's scary wrt electricity prices.
If i were you, since you're getting into HA anyway, buy yourself a smart outlet that has power monitoring
I guess i should monitor the power usage some more to see if it really is inefficient
run it for a bit and monitor power usage.
lmao for real, i've been wanting one of those for the washer/dryer to know when it's drawing power
hearing it just means you've got shitty fans on there. But check the CPU usage. maybe you've got somethign running constantly that's peaking the CPU out and causing the fans to spin up,
man i don't remember what younger me was doing but i remember installing a massive cpu fan and maybe just maybe setting it to max at all times







