#hardware-archived

1 messages · Page 126 of 1

undone lake
#

hi. Any one here who can tell me perhaps why my code run fines on an Arduino but not on an ESP32? I thought i was able to use the same code? But it wont work. Im trying to read the IR interface of a Kamstrub meter. I was hoping to use ESPHOME so i could easy intergrate the sensor(s) into HA.
It is even possible to run the same code without adjustments on both Arduino and an ESP32?

valid frigate
#

I am no expert but I have the ikea stuff and I dont even use the hub no more, once I got the conbee II, I added all my blinds to home assistant using the zigbee2mqtt method

#

the sensors I purchased were the aqara motion sensors, i got them from aliexpress, there are a few sellers were you can get 4 of them for me were 28, which is the price of 2 cheap sensors here in uk anyway.

analog oar
#

I do search a good aroma diffuser / humidifier which can be connected to home assistant.

grand cedar
valid frigate
# grand cedar The issue with that is that I would lose the Google home integration, right? I l...

I am sure google home can be integrated so anything that's tied to HA is seen by google home, my amazon devices list all my home assistant ones, so if a motion sensor is setup in zigbee2mqtt (which exposes it to home assistant) it would then show up in your google device if you have it attached to home assistant. The reason I suggest zigbee2mqtt over deconz is you can add a lot of tuya devices in zigbee2mqtt too, which means a lot less costly devices.

grand cedar
#

I’m still ok with adding automation through HA only though, should make things simpler.
So: from a « naked » installation, with no hub, what is the best way to add motion detectors to HA?

civic kraken
karmic cargo
#

Has anyone wired Shelly devices into US 120v AC wiring on a 20a breaker using #12 wire? I'm trying, but it doesn't seem to want to accept the wire and have the screw tighten. Will it only work with #14 wire?

zealous dune
#

Shelly isn't rated for 20A

toxic dirge
#

so im trying to follow a guide to flash a s31

#

having trouble figuring out which bin file im supposed to get

toxic dirge
#

ok i think i found the file

#

but now i cant get the ftdi to communicate with the s31 outlet

karmic cargo
shy river
#

That's a cool jig

#

I never got my 3d printed thing to work, so this looks perfect

#

The pins were just too crooked and were touching the shield/ground

toxic dirge
#

i wana nab the best and easyest to use IR controller, any suggestions?

radiant bane
#

you want to send IR commands?

#

its basically the ouput end of a universal remote, you can send hex commands to it and it will send the ir signals out to a flasher that is stuck to anything you want

#

@toxic dirge is that what you are looking for?

#

anyone have any ideas?

toxic dirge
#

it looks like pin 2 would go to the AO

#

but i only made my 1st esp8266 project earlier

#

lol

#

@radiant bane but yes that is, im trying to be able to turn on the window AC without having to get up

#

lazy

radiant bane
#

This setup would work for your AC, you'd just need to stick a flasher to the window like a vcr

toxic dirge
#

hmmm, i wonder, is there a blaster version?

radiant bane
#

only problem is if I remember correctly the little boxes are pricey ($50 or more on ebay last I checked)

toxic dirge
#

kinda wana ceiling mount 1 orb to control the whole room's IR

radiant bane
#

you mean so you don't have to wire it and it would just fire across the room? I'm not sure I have seen that

toxic dirge
#

correct

#

i wonder if i could make one with an IR led and an ESP

#

lol

#

there are some ir controllers in there

#

no idea if any are what i'd want but bunch of options

radiant bane
#

so - thanks for the A0 suggestion.

#

When I configure A0 for "temp" I get a reading that is consistent with off/on (it says 16.5c when it detects water and some other value usually 200 c when it doesn't)

#

so while i can work with that in HA of course, I can't seem to find a better config setting that would just show on/off

drifting grove
#

Hi All good morning. NOt sure where to post my question but as the hardware freezes I was wonderinf if this would be the correct place. Whats the issue? For a while HA run super for a few days, left unattended but the suddenly locks up and can only be reset by hard reboot. Does anyone know why this is or does anyone have the same issue?

radiant bane
#

@drifting grove What type of hardware are you running it on?

drifting grove
#

@radiant bane Oops indeed RPi 4, 8gb internal, Argonone m.2/256gb ssd. Previously on a 128sd card but had the same issue.

toxic dirge
#

wait, you can run an m.2 on a pi4?

drifting grove
#

@toxic dirge yep

toxic dirge
#

any faster then the sd?

shy river
#

on the compute module right?

shy river
drifting grove
#

@toxic dirge havent measured it but it seems faster indeed. You can even boot from it. and it should last a lot longer as it's design purpose is diff than the SD card.

radiant bane
#

have you made any changes to logging?

#

is it possible HA is building up a cache of logs that is too large?

#

I know that I had some issues when I first started to trying using the history function to track a large project I was doing, if i set it to too many days of retention it would crap out

#

then i switched to MYSQL and managed the database separately and it was MUCH better without any of the downsides

drifting grove
#

@radiant bane that is an idea I had too. The logging issue. I have no idea how to change that though.

radiant bane
#

if you haven't changed it then it is probably not causing it

shy river
#

I would set up a sensor to track memory usage and see whether there's correlation

radiant bane
#

I set mine from default which i think is maybe 3 or 5 days, to 30 days to cause the issue

#

ooh thats a good idea

#

do you know about the rpi sensor tracking project that works with MQTT/Home Assistant

#

?

shy river
#

there's a type of sensor that can use terminal output as value

drifting grove
#

@shy river yep thats running but that doesn't show any anomolies

radiant bane
#

(on my question) I figured it out, Analog Input setting is reading 0/1 or 1024, which is perfect I can template that into on/off and I'm in business!

shy river
radiant bane
#

thanks @toxic dirge for the a0 thought.

#

@drifting grove does your home assistant config have any recurring errors in the logs?

#

also since it's pretty easy to fully back up and restore, have you tried erasing your entire config and running vanilla for a few days just to confirm it is not your hardware ?

shy river
#

it can also be the power supply, i had lockups due to a dodgy unit on pi 3

radiant bane
#

@shy river that's a good thought - I have read a lot about those issues, I usually go out of my way when picking the power supply because it can be finicky

shy river
#

it's the reason i picked the overpriced official pi power supply for my pi hub

radiant bane
#

(and by out of my way I mean I usually just buy the canakit because I've never had an issue with the supply they include)

shy river
#

at leats i know it will work reliably

drifting grove
#

@shy river no usage increase before. And indeed I have a couple of Led lights that keep filling the logs. is there a way to stop the logging of those. That would nicely fit in with the suggestion @radiant bane made

shy river
#

usually integrations have instructions on how to control logging

radiant bane
#

this is why a vanilla wipe for a few days would save you a lot of headache

shy river
#

and i think ha in general has some switch for that. i would give links but im on my phone and it's a pain

radiant bane
#

you could even disconnect the m.2 and run it off a micro sd

#

nothing wrong with going hunting, but make sure you are in the correct woods or you'll never catch a thing

#

I'm so jazzed to have a liquid sensor that is affordable ($13 + nodemcu)

#

this will change my entire operation

#

are there breakout boards that could give me multiple analog inputs for tasmota/nodemcu?

#

LOL@ yes there are - and I have one upstairs that I ordered last year for a project I never finished

#

It's 2am here, goodnight gentlemen.

drifting grove
#

@shy river the power supp is Rpi so should not be an issue. I have it hooked up to a separate Zwave socket which measures output and it shows no signs of anomolies. (that also helps in resets from outside ;-))
I'll have at look at the logging but it is a HA native integration. FLUX LED

#

@radiant bane Night! and thanks for your help

drifting grove
drifting grove
undone lake
valid frigate
steel mist
#

Sorry for this above, it was accidentally :)
Not so related with home assistant, but does anybody knows will Sonoff R2 wifi switch work with DC ~19V ?

#

I mean, I know these switches are made for AC 90-250V, but I'm looking for something which will open and close circuit (switch) and what would I mount on output of laptop charger.

#

So I am curious are Sonoff R2 classic switches which opening and closing power circuit or there is maybe something else because they will not support DC.

#

thx

grand cedar
zealous dune
valid frigate
zealous dune
valid frigate
#

but blackadder suggestion is correct, you have to remember that moving forward this will be your coordinator for the ZigBee network, best not to scrimp on this

grand cedar
zealous dune
#

not necessarily, you need to buy the stick for your integration

steel mist
#

Not exactly, but thanks for the hint. Basically, looking for something which comes with genuine case (not naked board, cause of other people in my house) and something what have physical button from outside where can be turned on/off manually as well

grand cedar
#

I feel like it's a pretty basic piece of hardware and I don't see what would make a cheap one much worse, especially since Zigbee devices relay the information with the ad-hoc network, right?

zealous dune
zealous dune
steel mist
#

And do you know will R2 for AC voltage work with DC voltage?

zealous dune
#

no

steel mist
#

Thx

valid frigate
#

yes there is a list there, I was just impressed with range on conbee II as I ordered 5 in total (different brands) and just paired one battery sensor 15 meters away for purposes of testing and the conbee was only one that had link quality over 200 for that device. (edited because mobile auto correct is a git).

zealous dune
#

lqi is a scam

valid frigate
#

it is once you add router device blackadder I agree

#

but I think its important for someone just adding battery devices 😛 but I could be wrong as I am only a computer hardware guy and still wet around the ears when it comes to HA

zealous dune
#

then you're doing zigbee wrong and regardless of that lqi is a scam, every manufacturer has their own ideas of lqi so those numbers don't really mean much

valid frigate
#

I had not even used a pi until I started testing smart home tech 😛 although that was short lived he he.

#

Oh I have routers, It was just a testing for article purposes

vital lark
#

should sonoff basic switches be a bit warm?

#

I don't want to cause any fire hazard in my home haha

tepid heart
#

Yes, a bit warm is normal. Too hot to touch is not.

vital lark
#

from the hardware fire safety point of view

tepid heart
#

They're pretty good. I've seen reports of two catching fire in three years (that's a lot of perfectly fine Sonoffs). Both cases were due to user fault. One was a bad modification, the other switching an inductive load the Sonoff wasn't rated for.

marsh blade
#

Does anyone know washing/dryer brands that expose a local API? I would like to firewall traffic allowing only local, but they all seem to "require" cloud connections. 😞

#

I don't mind having to write integrations myself, I'm just talking from a protocol perspective

karmic cargo
#

But, if it's a 20A breaker, that doesn't meet NEC

tender aurora
#

Recommendations for PIR over Wifi? Maybe even a multi sensor of some sort while we're at it.

runic karma
#

Hey there 🙂
I just read about Home Assistant and I have a few smaller questions, which maybe can be answered here 🙂
So, currently I have multiple Philips Hue lights and Amazon echo devices in my home.
I want to add some thermostates now to regulate my room heating by some schedule or triggers.
In some other discord I was told, that the Philips Hue Bridge is only supporting a protocol for lights, not smart devices in general... sooo.... My question is: How do I proceed here?
Is it possible to use Home Assistant (running locally on my Synology server or rPi) in combination with some "universal smart devices bridge" and get rid of the philips hue bridge?
Is it ok if the device that runs "home assistant" does not have wifi itself but is conencted to some bridge via ethernet cable?
And last question: I saw that home assistant let's you do almost everything ( I saw the Node red module), so it would be possible to create some mechanic to e.g. turn off all light and turn down thermostates when 2 smartphones are not "at home", right? I mean, I could at least create some mechanic that pings both smartphones inside the wifi and when they don't respond for some time, they are "away"?
Sorry for those many questions^^°

#

Oh, and lastly, if all of this works, are there any thermostates that you can recommend? My only criteria would be that they are able to "override" manually by turning the knobs in case of software failure^^

glossy prism
#
  1. if you want to use a wide variety of zigbee devices, you'll want to get a zigbee adapter and use one of the zigbee integrations found in #zigbee-archived
  2. it's recommended to have a wired connection on whatever machine is running HA
  3. yes, the automation you described would be possible either with HA's automations or node red
storm cliff
#

Guys do you know any zigbee device that gives a signal upon powering it up? I want HA to know when someon rings the doorbell

glossy prism
#

there's a zigbee doorbell sensor by sage

#

fair warning though--it's battery powered and doesn't report battery level lol

#

why it's battery powered when it is CONNECTED TO THE DOORBELL TRANSFORMER is beyond me

storm cliff
#

Yeah but the bell i want to contorl is the one below my flat, in the street. I can't put that there

glossy prism
#

ah, well that would be good to know lol

#

i assumed a regular doorbell with a transformer. i also assumed that those types of doorbells are used outside the US

storm cliff
glossy prism
#

so you have a buzzer in your unit?

storm cliff
#

y

glossy prism
#

it's probably possible to come up with something, but we'd need to know voltages and such

storm cliff
#

well im guessing its 220vac

runic karma
glossy prism
#

Is Zigbee supported by almost all devices
well, no. i mentioned a zigbee adapter because you mentioned philips hue, and that uses zigbee

runic karma
glossy prism
#

sure, there are a few hubs that support zigbee and zwave (and maybe others), but i personally just use a zigbee adapter

runic karma
#

@glossy prism do you have some recommendations about such multi-standard bridges?

glossy prism
#

nope, i don't use anything like that

valid frigate
zealous dune
#

nowhere does it mention its wifi or zigbee or controllable

runic karma
#

uhm... if I'm looking for a bridge that supports multiple protocols, what are the most common ones? Zigbee and zwave? or is there a third one by chance?

gloomy spoke
#

You really don’t want to use a multi-protocol controller. They evolve at different rates and tying them together locks you into what will eventually (or currently) be outdated tech with a painful migration process

runic karma
gloomy spoke
#

No

#

I don’t think any support zwave 700-series, for instance

#

They’re already behind

runic karma
# gloomy spoke They’re already behind

ah damn... ok, then I guess getting different bridges for each standard makes more sense :/
Did I understand it correct, that the software of the bridge, for me now, doesn't really matter, because I will use home assistant? So I don't need to fancy group or manage the connected devices inside the bridge app, I just need the bridge to connect to the devices and the home assistant app will handle the rest?

gloomy spoke
#

Correct

karmic cargo
#

Until it's inspected. 😉

runic karma
# gloomy spoke Correct

awesome 🙂 can you recommend such a zigbee bridge that's only purpose will be to connect with home assistant?

gloomy spoke
bold flax
#

Any thoughts on what to use for a home intercom?

snow phoenix
#

Is there a way to get Foscam C1 to work with home assistant ?

glossy prism
snow phoenix
#

Thanks will take a look and see if it works

glossy prism
#

oh there's a foscam integration too

bright jacinthBOT
snow phoenix
#

Gotta figure out the ip of the cam haha

glossy prism
#

googling "THING home assistant" is a good way to find if an integration exists btw

#

(or searching the integrations list on the HA site)

flint skiff
#

Hi all, first post here. I have searched internet, HA forum and left a Q there, but no answers yet: my HA on PI4 hangs when reset. I have attached an Arduino via USB. When I take that off, it starts. A friend suggests it has something to do with boot sequence. Any suggestions?

shy river
#

m5stack makes them in nice battery powered cases, and you can output the video onto core 2

#

I don't remember if they have mics inside tho

hollow lance
#

I ended up hacking something together myself with dupont connectors

#

it's a mess and if the wind changes direction while i'm uploading firmware then its all over red rover

#

but i managed to get it to flash on the third attept

#

did you have any luck with the fan speed?

sterile coyote
fallow cape
sterile coyote
dull portal
#

Hello, anyone can recommend wifi smart plug that works with Smart Life and Home Assistant?

past spindle
#

On a related note, does anyone know what happened to hadevices.com?

#

I get a cloudflare 522 every time I try to go there

fallow cape
#

no idea but it's been down for a few months it seems

past spindle
#

I guess failing that there's always hacs and manual repositories, but something that would say "works, BUT" would be nice.

#

Like I got those Fibaro motion detectors that work with homekit expecting seamless integrations

#

Except they use BLE not wifi, so I have to use my ipad as a homekit hub with automations to interact with HA

#

If I had realized then they were BLE I would've gotten the z-wave ones

fallow cape
#

Seems like the kind of problem that wouldn't be run into if you weren't using HomeKit.. 😄

past spindle
#

It worked so nicely for my ecobee and vizio tv though 😅

#

I guess thinking about it even more I probably would've gotten Hue sensors instead.

fallow cape
#

Biggest problem with Hue stuff is the price IMO

past spindle
#

I just didn't want to deal with the zwave setup, I have a zigbee/zwave radio...

fallow cape
#

arguments to be made about how closed off it is but it's better than it used to be

past spindle
#

Yeah, part of the reason I went with the homekit ones is they were like $35 used vs $50 for new or hue

#

I'm missing out on all the cool sensors they have though

fallow cape
#

Does anyone have a suggestion for a hardware device to wake me up? I have an automation that fires if a sensor is left open for a period of time, sends TTS to google assistant devices (default volume is probably too quiet to wake me up with earplugs in), and turns lights on, but I'm kind of wondering about something a little better. Siren? Some sort of vibratory device under the mattress like some deaf people use for alarms?

past spindle
#

You can set google speaker volumes via automations, it's what I do for my alarmo setup

#

open door, volume is set to 10% for the warning chime then it goes to 100% for the main siren

#

If you have smart shades, you can have them open to let light in, assuming you don't work night shift

#

Turn the lights on slowly/instantly if you have enough to make it bright enough to bother you

#

But I mainly use an app on my phone that won't stop until I scan two NFC tags that I have spread about.

fallow cape
#

I usually sleep with earplugs and a sleeping mask on so I don't think lights will do much, but it may go off while I'm awake as well, so I've left that in there

past spindle
#

I think the vibratory option is probably the best then

fallow cape
#

Had my freezer door get left open one too many times 😦

past spindle
#

oof

#

I put a contact/temperature sensor in my fridge, I should try one in the freezer

fallow cape
#

in the freezer will kill the battery

past spindle
#

The fridge is certainly doing no favors to the battery of that one

fallow cape
#

I have mounted a smartthings multisensor on the door of my freezer

past spindle
#

I guess I could mount one to the exterior and it would let me know if one or both are open

#

I like knowing what temperature the fridge is at though, at a glance.

fallow cape
#

3d printed bracket and two way tape

past spindle
#

Ah, a thermocouple would be a good solution. My freezer already seals poorly though, I'm not sure running a wire through the seal is a great idea.

fallow cape
#

Probably, yeah. I need to source a new freezer seal myself

past spindle
fallow cape
past spindle
#

It seems that I haven't bought enough random stuff on aliexpress today then

fallow cape
#

they seem to want $230/ea on thhe alibaba side of things though so maybe not that one in particular..

#

I wonder if any of the expensive smart fridges have some sort of alarming function if you leave the door open

past spindle
#

Whatever one my landlord supplies dings at me if I leave a door open too long

#

But I think it's tied to the door switch, so if it's just a bad seal you don't get any warnings

#

Hilariously, the washer/dryer unit supplied by the same doesn't ding at me so I have to set a timer to remember to check if it's done.

fallow cape
#

My dryer buzzes at me but the washer doesn't, it's very annoying. But not annoying enough to try setting up a state machine in HA

past spindle
#

I've considered a vibration detector but it's not really worth it, I do laundry once a week and if it takes me all day to do a couple loads that's fine.

fallow cape
#

the smartthings (forget who bought the hardware business from samsung) multisensor as I'm using is pretty decent for that, but it's hard to monitor something like that in HA since it looks for events and all

past spindle
#

It's easy enough to tell my various speakers to set a timer, if I remember to do so

#

What I need to figure out is to sync that timer across all of them...

fallow cape
#

could probably do that in HA actually, assuming you don't get a false alarm detecting vibration

past spindle
#

Or create a script in HA and have the speaker run it

fallow cape
#

automation to set a timer for an hour or some such upon detecting vibration, and then play alert sounds

past spindle
#

I know I can start my light delay that way

fallow cape
#

many people seem to rely on monitoring power usage for determining when it's finished but I haven't really looked into finding a smart plug that works on 220v north american

past spindle
#

I have a gas dryer, but I don't want to deal with smart outlets. I'm not sure where it's plugged in, to start with, and second the wiring here still uses fuses (built in the early 1940s)

fallow cape
#

oof

past spindle
#

Suffice it to say, as much as I'd love to have energy monitoring, I want zero to do with the wiring.

fallow cape
#

I use a kasa plug on my portable air conditioner unit, it's very handy for tracking just how often it's running.. though when I have it set to 18c during the daytime while I sleep, it's running most of the time anyways.

past spindle
#

Wow, four for $25 or one with monitoring for $21

#

Do you use the emulated kasa or tp-link integration?

fallow cape
#

The integration and I've thankfully never had it explode on me

#

though I'm aware there are Issues(tm) with the integration and all

#

four for $25 sounds like a clearance price, possibly some of the older HS100s that have been end of lifed

past spindle
#

EP10 according to the listing

fallow cape
#

huh, wild

#

I wouldn't think that the consumption hardware would really add that much more cost

past spindle
#

No, but it's a great marketing tool to increase profit margin

fallow cape
#

When I picked mine up on sale from BB they were cheaper than the non-monitoring ones but that was the previous generation of hardware anyways

past spindle
#

:c my local best buy closed a few months into covid

#

Nearest one is like 3 hour drive

fallow cape
#

oof

past spindle
#

So yeah, used to be able to just go pick stuff up or wander around to see what's new. Now it's only online and I miss that interaction

#

Hmm... I was thinking there's not a lot I need smart outlets for, but maybe there are... I have a few lighting panels that I can't use the remote for anymore...

#

wait a minute, I think it's a 2.4GHz remote. I wonder if I can make it work via HA somehow.

fallow cape
#

I use smart plugs for my home theater projector (firmware's a little iffy and sometimes it needs to be fully power cycled), my consoles (there's a bunch of them in standby), my a/c (monitoring), and my 3d printer

past spindle
#

Guess I need to grab my SDR and scan

#

I use octopi and a relay for my printer

#

Plus then you can use the octoprint integration

fallow cape
#

Yep, I have that set up.. I just don't really like the idea of going down to the raw relays when smart plugs are fairly affordable and easier to use. I just leave the printer and the pi behind the smart plugs

past spindle
#

Yeah, it's not the prettiest solution, but it does mean I don't have to wait for the pi to start up when I want to print. http://w.s3a.pw/8db88cf2.jpg

#

I can be uploading the gcode while the printer turns on

gentle yew
#

whats the cheapest zigbee switch I could buy to switch lights on/off? I currently have philips dimmer v2 but I want another one on other door to just switch lights on instead of having to walk to other side of the room

vague stump
#

I see some people try not to use cloud based hardware like Tuya and move to all zigbee. Is there advantages other than # of wifi devices on the network and relience on internet for using it

glossy prism
#

zigbee/z-wave devices have great battery life, so that's another advantage

vague stump
#

true but for smart plugs/switches they are always powered... but that is a good point for other devices

peak talon
#

The idea is that bring local keeps your data within your reach. Also, depending upon cloud you are at the mercy of somebody else supporting your device.

long charm
#

I have this attic fan controller (Though it could be used to control anything up to 15 amps I think). It has an ESP32 chip on it. I would like to run ESPHome, but I am not sure how to get the firmware onto it in the first place. This is what I'm working with: https://imgur.com/a/zEUVv3Q

Any ideas?

glossy prism
#

man, not being able to upload images is so friggin' annoying

#

thank u rob

#

definitely need to click "open original" for the uploaded photo... the compression in the preview kills the text

#

one potential issue though: ESP32 chips have an eFuse that, if burned, will prevent you from flashing custom firmware

#

not all manufacturers burn the eFuse, but it's something to be aware of. once you have it hooked up via serial, you just need to run espefuse.py --port PORT summary to check

long charm
#

ahh. so i might be out of luck. but lets say it wasnt locked out. but in theory, i take those pins and wire them to a serial cable?

glossy prism
#

yeah, you just need a USB-TTL adapter

glossy prism
#

in case you're not familiar with flashing ESP8266/32 with alternative firmware, to put it in flash mode you would do this:

Device    Adapter
3V3       3V3
GND       GND
TX        RX
RX        TX
IO0       GND
#

(IO0 has to be connected to GND when it's powered up)

long charm
#

so, on the other side of this board theres a strip of 6 holes w/ a J2 label on it. 2 of them correspond w/ the tx/rx pins you called out

#

just a coincidence those 6 holes are same shape/spacing (seem to be at least) to the adapter pins you shared?

glossy prism
#

It looks like a common spacing

long charm
#

is there any way to know if the eFuse is burned?

long charm
#

well thanks Tediore this should be enough to get me dangerous

grand cedar
#

Maybe a stupid question, but I just heard of the Matter standard.
In regards to automation, would I be better off waiting until Matter-compatible hardware gets released? Will it be a big change in the home automation market?

next sapphire
torn cypress
#

Hello guys. I have been using hassio for about 2 years at home. And a few friends started asking me to setup some automations for them. Personally I use a raspb4 with zigbee usb adapter for myself. Can anyone recommend a pain free budget device combo. I wanna ditch the sd card if possible because of the r/w failure, and use an LTE adapter so it wouldn't rely on their WIFI. Any advice?

winged knoll
#

What is your idea of "budget" price?

torn cypress
#

there is not really a limit, i mostly meant that price matters

#

if that makes sense

winged knoll
#

Pretty much any second hand mini PC from the last decade would do - it just needs to be 64 bit (so, careful with Atom), with at least 2 CPU cores, 2 GB of RAM, and 32 GB of storage

torn cypress
#

and for the LTE compability?

winged knoll
#

Well, LTE adapter will need OS support, but there's various internal and USB options

#

Or you can use an LTE router and not worry about it

torn cypress
#

thanks a lot

hazy patio
#

Hey so im trying to integrate my "smart meter" into homeassistant. My power supplier supports zigbee devices that have "Smart Energy Profile 1.1 Standard" Does anyone know any compatible Zibgee usb adapters?

winged knoll
hazy patio
#

Didnt notice it.. thank you haha

heavy oracle
#

Does anyone know if "Innu smart WiFi light bulbs" can be integrated in HA? I am aware that the "Innu smart Zigbee light bulbs" can be managed (via a Zigbee coordinator / ZHA etc)

torn light
#

Looking for some advice. I have only 1 device left to migrate from the SmartThings platform over into HA. Its a SonOff TH-16 with temp probe. I flashed it with what believe to be a custom fork of Tasmota. It reports version "version":"2.0.5", "date":"May 23 2019 13:28:09"
So of course the TasmotaAdmin integration doesnt understand the reply. While it was only a few bucks, does anyone know what version of official tasmota FW would flash without bricking?

lunar tapir
#

Any recommendations for the best Smoke/CO detectors for use with HA

#

?

civic kraken
#

Xiaomi one looks solid, but haven't tried it yet

steep gyro
#

So my HA Blue seems to have died on me at some point during the day..

#

trying to netcat to 8123 results in either no route to host or connection refused..

gloomy spoke
steep gyro
#

ah, yeah that seems reasonable. Thanks!

brave citrus
#

Anyone find a smart outlet that's 20amp rated? Trying to automate a pool filter system

sick shard
#

Trying to get onboard bluetooth working with the haos_generic-x86-64-6.5.img but I am getting bluetooth hci0: Direct firmware load for qca/rampatch_usb_00000302.bin failed with error -2 from dmesg, I tried to wget the firmware files to the needed folder but they disappear after rebooting - is there something I need to do in order to get the files to stay?

trail saffron
#

temp sensor question, does DHT11 usually need to be scaled a lot? currently showing -12C but it's 21-22 in the house by the thermostat

tepid heart
#

DHT11's aren't super accurate but they're not as bad as you are seeing. Usually just +/- 1 to 2°C

trail saffron
#

i'll have to flash an arduino and test with it, i can't figure out how to get it to not report -11c or so in HA, ugh

lost canopy
#

Trying to grab a z-wave stick/hub, wondering if this is a good option (it's description yells spooky stuff about "expert computer knowledge"), or if someone's got a better suggestion for plugging into my blue. Budget not an issue, I'm in the US and don't have much of a setup yet besides a Blue and some Philips bulbs.

winged knoll
#

For Z-Wave you want something of the 700 series - a search of the #zwave-archived channel (or a question posted there) can probably help, but ISTR the Aeotec stick is currently believed to be the best

lost canopy
#

Many thanks! I'll pick one up.

naive maple
#

Heyy, so i already have HUE system & bridge connected to my HA, i was wondering, can i use only HA+HUE to add lets say new hue lights or ikeas trpdfri lights or am i still in need of hue app to set up new lights (and ikea app for ikea lights)? If i'd like to ditch any other apps than HA woiuld i need to get a zigbee dongle to use my things like ii described; nothing but HA for set up and use.

#

I.e. rasbee or some dongle. Recommendations for good dongles in EU (Finland for more precise) is appreciated!

sterile forge
#

not sure if the right place to ask, but can I keep a power bank permanently plugged in as a sort of usb charger? I'm aware it would damage the cells over time and make them not last as long, just wondering if there's any actual fire hazard that can arise

lunar tapir
#

Anyone know where the cheapest place to buy Lutron Caseta switches is?

valid frigate
#

so glad I moved my system to dedicated setup... bloody crap QNAP I am going to batter this thing with a hammer when I replace it.

torn light
torn light
valid frigate
#

i might just build my own I have a 8 core and a 28 core xeon sitting in the drawer

prime verge
#

Hey, is it possible to take an HA rpi4 backup and restore it on a odroid n2+?

winged knoll
#

Yes

prime verge
#

ok, then it just takes much time. It`s 1 GB big and I only have a SD card in my n2+, yet

late flume
#

I am in the process of replacing the classic gas central heating with IR panels 700 - 1000W by panel and now I am looking for good smart thermostats I need 9 of them to cover all the rooms do you have any recommendations?

tiny smelt
#

Any suggestions for smart switches (for the lights)? Im struggling to find anything other LightwaveRF that actually has a full range as I need 1 and 2 gang options plus dimmer / non dimmer options. Any suggestions before I go for the lightwave parts? They are just insanely expensive.

Im in the UK (cant seem to find lutron stuff here, maybe im just blind) and currently running mostly Zigbee stuff but im not set on using that specifically.

winged knoll
#

Zigbee?

#

Cheaper than LightwaveRF

#

Easier to get a hold of too 😄

tiny smelt
#

Yeah but brands? Ive looked and finding two gang dimmers is not too easy!

winged knoll
tiny smelt
#

Lightwave doesnt seem too bad to get hold of but hub + sockets is insane

winged knoll
#

Including modules to fit behind existing switches

tiny smelt
#

Yeah ive flicked through the Z2M supported list and the samotech ones seem to fit the bill but they are only single gang

#

I guess I could stick two of them in but they wouldnt fit in the backbox so idk! And at that point its almost the price of lightwaveRF dual gang dimmer!

#

oh damn, they updated that page to be way more user friendly

tiny smelt
#

Had another look and there arent any 2 gang dimmers! Only relays. Guess the only option is to put two boxes in (and who knows where ill put the second one) or go for LightwaveRF

wooden wedge
sterile forge
#

Mine do

sterile forge
#

Though I figured I can use a smart switch to cycle charge it

upper yoke
#

are there any home theater receivers that allow an absolute volume level to be directly set (instead of sending vol- and vol+ commands) either via an integration or ir?

tepid heart
valid frigate
tiny smelt
valid frigate
valid frigate
#

by going to in wall switches you can basically use any outer you want and will still work out cheaper than light wave

tiny smelt
#

God I have looked forever to find exactly that

#

Thanks so much!

torn cypress
#

Hey. is there a universal device that can learn/copy radio remotes? For example for blinders, garage door etc?

undone haven
#

Broadlink rm4 pro does ir and rf. Not sure what you mean by radio remotes though.

#

It’s range is obviously limited to ir and rf though.

lunar tapir
#

Any Lutron Caseta users in here? I need some advice.

vague tartan
#

Hany know if its a third party lte module? Em7455 I got original on ebay, but I don’t think it will come. I will repurpose the laptop to a homelab with some ram and gpu kick

proper parrot
#

Hello I have a question configuring my Yeelight for LAN-mode. I have blocked from internet access in my TP-LINK access control rule management and have LAN-mode enabled for each of the bulbs. They all show up as 'device offline' in the Yeelight app at all suggesting LAN communication is prohibited somehow. Is this normal behaviour?

glossy prism
#

Do they still work in HA?

proper parrot
#

Hi thanks for your reply. I want to transition to HA at some point but would like to block their internet access for the time being. The weird thing is, I can still control them using my pre-defined profiles (so they are not LAN domain blocked) but not individually through the "Devices" tab as they appear offline there.

glossy prism
#

I'd connect them to HA and see if you can control them. If you can, I wouldn't worry about it then

velvet lance
#

Bit random, but has anyone heard of a way to control Aurora Aone Bluetooth light bulbs via scripts? ( they're bluetooth only, no zigbee or wifi)

#

There is a phone app, but it's horrendous

grand cedar
fluid vault
#

Hi! Does anyone have any experience with door closers?
I've given up on educating my wife to close the door 🤣

shy river
#

But you need a good stick with up-to-date firmware

#

I suggest the January 2021 one, not the latest July, I had bad experience with it

shy river
#

though for some reason i see there's a separate HACS integration for those

#

I have some Xiaomi devices and while you can control them locally, they behave kind of funky when they can't connect to the internet

#

Like, there's a substantial lag between actions

zealous dune
#

it varies from device to device because miio protocol is not standardized at all

shy river
#

yeah I have their humidifiers too and those work ok with blocked internet

zealous dune
#

the yeelights are offline in the app because as far as the app is concerned they are, despite lan control being on the cloud servers can't see them

shy river
#

and are rated for 16 amps and not 10 amps like these moes and other chinese ones. if there's a short curcuit the switch will fail before the circuit breaker can kick in, if it's rated for higher than 10

#

and they typically are

tiny smelt
shy river
#

weird, I thought Shelly Dimmer 2 supports 2 gang

#

it has 2 switch terminals on the diagram. but i have never installed dimmers

shy river
#

Plus some of the Chinese vendors sometimes like to overstate what their products are rated for

#

If I were you I wouldn't install it in a place where it might start a fire (behind a dry wall etc)

#

And if you have home insurance, in an event of a fire, the insurer may refuse a payout if you used a device like that

tiny smelt
tiny smelt
shy river
#

Yes but the design is east european and because EU is one of their main markets, they design their products with EU regulations in mind, to pass which you need to be certified by a regulatory body

shy river
#

meaning you can just slap the marking onto the product yourself and claim that it meets CE standard

gloomy dawn
#

anyone know much about led's and phillips hue? im not quite to the HA integration piece yet. but im trying to figure out if i can use phillips hue (and home assistant) with non phillips branded lights

shy river
#

also which Phillips hue bulbs

gloomy dawn
#

dont want to use the phillips hue bulbs. just the software and the hub thinger

#

they seem to have the best software, etc...

#

and seem to integrate well with things

shy river
#

it's really not the best software

#

you can usually avoid Phillips hue and other hubs and control stuff directly from home assistant

gloomy dawn
#

ok well lemme back up. im wanting to add some ambient lighting, and some automation type stuff, using some led strips, and some other devices

shy river
#

especially if you're going to DIY an led strip and a smart controller for them

gloomy dawn
#

i ordered those led strips above

#

and im trying to figure out what to use for a controller

#

its all a bit grey to me, and im tryin to connect the dots

shy river
gloomy dawn
#

no controller yet. thats what im trying to figure out what to order, in terms of the controller

#

i do have an arduino, and various pi's

#

just not sure how much effort it is to diy the controller, and what limitations i have vs an out of the box solution.

#

i think thats why i asked about the hue hub. i think i assumed it was a controller itself

shy river
#

I would research something like "home assistant led strip controller" and go from where. but in any case you should aim for direction communication between Home Assistant and the LED strip. no vendor hubs like Phillips Hue etc, i doubt they even support something like that

#

Ive never researched the topic but I've seen that Tasmota has led stuff implemented in it. So my guess is that an ESP32 or ESP8266 may be used as a controller

#

or part of the controller

#

so i would use those terms in your research

#

i am quite confident there is lots of material on that out there

#

@gloomy dawn

gloomy dawn
#

yea theres lots of material

#

not quite the "drinking from a fire hose" gif i wanted. but its what i got

meager shoal
#

So with the release of the rtsp firmware for wyzecam v3 I have started add my cams to home assistant and also using the ffmpeg motion functionality to create motion sensors. It's seems that this functionality uses a decent amount of CPU, as I am constantly at 70% CPU on my raspi 3b+. So I am guessing to continue this I really should migrate my install to some heavier hardware. What's recommended to be able to have camera motion sensors for about 6-10 camera?

proper parrot
acoustic solstice
#

Is this the right place to ask about HA glow?

tiny smelt
tiny smelt
shy river
#

i was simplifying ofc

tiny smelt
#

I bought one (since they’re cheap) which I intend to use as test one (not in the walls). I will probably tear it apart to have a look what’s going on inside

#

My main sissy’s with Shelly is that even if I could get a double they are also WiFi only which is a blow

shy river
#

is it a big issue in your living space? i assume it's large and thus coverage kind of sucks

tiny smelt
#

WiFi? Yeah and no. My WiFi is patchy as hell but it’s on the radar as something to sort as ap placement is current terrible. Hopefully in time it will be better.

#

I prefer zigbee as it’s imo much more reliable and manageable

shy river
#

make sure you to test the channel range for interference and pick something less congested than the default channel 15

#

here it is REALLY congested

tiny smelt
#

Eh it’s more that my AP is rammed in a cupboard 😂

#

I prefer zigbee as I already have a ton of zigbee stuff so have a good mesh and I find them easier to manage than having to go through a billion different web uis

elder oracle
#

I need something that can alternate current 0-10v that works with zigbee ? Does anyone know something that helps ? It comes to my aircondioner and the corresponding voltages are
0 0,20...1,25 VDC
1 1,75...2,25 VDC
2 2,75...3,25 VDC
3 3,75...4,25 VDC
4 4,75...5,25 VDC
5 5,75...6,25 VDC
6 6,75...7,25 VDC
7 7,75...8,25 VDC
8 8,75...10,00 VDC

gusty dust
#

Is there any smart plug that is now most recommended to work with HA? I was going to get some more TP plugs, but it seems like support has dropped or will be dropped for them?

glossy prism
#

Zigbee or zwave ones would be solid choices since they're local by their very nature

#

Otherwise, the sonoff s31 is a good choice and is easily flashable with tasmota (requires disassembly, but it's easy to do and no soldering is required for flashing)

gusty dust
#

any z devices that youd recommend? and are you aware of docs for flashing the s31? Im guessing there some cable needed to do so as well

glossy prism
#

As far as zigbee, there's a zigbee version of the S31 that is decent

gusty dust
#

Ok, thanks

#

Would you recommend flashing the wifi version of the s31 rather than using the s31 lite zigbee?

@glossy prism

#

and does flashing remove any features from the device, like energy monitoring?

#

because if a flashed s31 doesnt have the features of the s31, than im not sure why not just use the zigbee ones.

glossy prism
#

It's up to you. Tasmota is nice, and no, it doesn't remove any features; if anything, it adds features. The zigbee version doesn't have energy monitoring though @gusty dust

#

If you do want energy monitoring, make sure to not buy the S31 lite

shy river
#

Does anyone have suggestions for an outdoors air quality sensor i can mount outside my house

#

it can be wired

#

Obviously compatible with HA

#

We have people with coal heating in our neighborhood and I just want to know when I should close the window before i feel that wretched cheap coal smell

#

ther nearest air quality station in my town is just too far away to give accurate readings

sand marsh
#

Coal heating? crazy

#

That must be very expensive

fringe moon
#

The 1920s are rough

crimson sparrow
#

Is it correct that there is currently no possibility to integrate the tapo power socket P110?

shy river
#

i live in a coal rich region

#

and even then they buy like, the cheapest unrefined, brown crap

#

and it smells DREADFUL

#

can't be good for the lungs

#

there's just no gas heating and electrical heating is very expensiv

#

@crimson sparrow isn't that tp-link stuff

#

maybe it will work with kasa smart integration

crimson sparrow
crimson sparrow
#

Something like:

sensors:
# TP Link Steckdose
switch_steckdose1_ampere:
friendly_name_template: "{{ states.switch.steckdose1.name}} Strom"
value_template: '{{ states.switch.steckdose1.attributes["current_a"] | float }}'
unit_of_measurement: 'A'
shouldnt work or am I wrong?

crimson sparrow
#

The switch is configured as:

switch:
platform: tapo_p100_control
ip_address: 192.168.x.x
email: email@gmail.com
password: Password123

candid agate
#

anyone can recommend any multi-zone WiFi addressable led strips, something that work with tasmota or esphome maybe

#

?

#

i am interested to be able to have multiple colors at once

#

not the hole strip blue or red etc

fringe moon
#

DIY wled

#

With D1 mini esp32 and ws2812 or similar

civic kraken
#

Seconded. I'd look at SK6812 strips though, the white led is a nice addition

fringe moon
#

You are a white led

uneven dirge
#

Can anyone recommend god affordable white smart bulbs e14 and e27.

fringe moon
#

Tradfri

uneven dirge
lament junco
#

Is there a list of recommended devices to get started with home assistant? Ie sensors, lights, switches. Don’t wanna buy devices that don’t work good or at all.

fringe moon
#

Xiaomi ZigBee devices, IKEA tradfri bulbs, esp devices

#

Just works

#

Everything local control

#

None of that cloud bullcrap

lament junco
#

Sweet I will look into those. I bought a bunch of smart lights last year and kinda regretted it since they are always connected to the cloud and have issues with the app

fringe moon
#

Which ones?

#

Mostly any tuya or smart life plug or bulbs can be opened and flashed to be local control with tasmota

lament junco
#

I have one Tuya and the rest are actually smart life. I did see that they might be able to be flashed, but did not want to break them at the time trying to do it. I should at least try one lol

fringe moon
#

It's easy

ebon gorge
fringe moon
#

Yeah I have $1 usb TTL serial adapters I use

#

And just temp solder or tape connectors while flashing

ebon gorge
#

Is it .1 Dupont pins?

fringe moon
#

On the tuya devices? Vary, on my TTL device yes

zealous dune
#

its mostly the opposite

ebon gorge
#

Yeah I was curious about the tuya I'll look for one of those databases to see what I can flash

zealous dune
#

most new Tuya devices carry an incompatible wifi module

fringe moon
#

@zealous dune even with physical connection?

#

Ah

#

Yeah I've heard of those

#

I've not seen none myself

#

Opened one I bought a few months ago

zealous dune
#

you can replace the module but that's a higher skill level process

fringe moon
#

Still esp

zealous dune
#

tuya's developer site doesn't even offer any ESP modules as a hardware choice for months now

onyx grail
#

Is this the appropriate channel to ask questions about configurations of hardware (devices) or is this deeper talk (boards, sensors, etc)?

maiden heron
#

Is z-wave plus worth an extra $120+ for a lock in your opinion

gloomy spoke
#

yes

#

no reason to buy a non-ZW+ device anymore

umbral owl
#

I might not been in the right place. I am trying to get home assistant up and running and looking for the best way to do this. I also want to make a plex server in a NAS. I am trying to first determine what is the best hardware and if I need two different pieaces of hardware to run each os or can home assitent be run on the NAS with my plex server?

candid agate
#

@umbral owl it can via docker container

#

but be careful you might want to add zigbee, z-wave sticks

#

make sure your nas suports them

#

also for your plex server make sure your nas will support hw acceleration for videos

#

just my 2 cents

#

in fact via docker container you can do both on a nas, if the nas supports: docker, usb sticks for zigbee and z-wave and bluetooth (if you want to use any of this) and supports hardware accelerated videos

valid frigate
valid frigate
fringe moon
valid frigate
hollow lance
#

where the hell do i find a 24 VAC power brick?

#

aliexpress acts like i've made them up

valid frigate
hollow lance
#

power supply for my irrigation system

#

the solenoid valves i have are 24 VAC

valid frigate
#

you want it to power them all as with 24VAC (dont put space in any search :P) I would always work out total amps

#

I would also just search on amazon too to be honest, if amp is low cheap as chips 🙂

#

if you want to zigbee it, just get a plug for for it

hollow lance
#

i've got a sonoff 4ch pro for the controller

#

i wouldn't rely on zigbee as far as i could comfortably throw it 🙃

#

i have an old irrigation controller i've never used, i'll just jag the power supply from that to test

#

even searching '24VAC' isn't yielding any useful results

tepid heart
minor gulch
#

Anyone have tips on a ZigBee wall switch to replace the ordinary lamp switches? I am getting sick of guests killing my smart lamps by cutting their power. Preferably touch and globally accessible!

valid frigate
#

I just ended up permanently living all my smart bulb switches and screwing a aqara 3 button over all the holes

minor gulch
midnight steeple
#

I think there are two types. Pure wireless where it is like an ikea switch but in a wall. The other is where it's physically connected but uses a relay so you can turn on even if the switch is off. May be wrong. There are absolutely switches available that allow you to use both HA and the physical switch regardless of the state. (I wont give you any examples as I've not bought any yet, only researched them)

manic meadow
#

Any suggestion for microphone for pi? I tried two. One 'conference type' usb mic, that one didn't work. And one lavalier type 3.5mm jack and usb sound card. That one worked but only when talking directly into it which is not very useful for voice control

edgy fog
#

The PlayStation Eye camera for the PS3 can be had for about $15, and works very well as a USB microphone.

manic meadow
#

I found it on ebay for 5 pounds, might as well try it!

muted wasp
#

Hi everyone.
Im wondering if someone can point me in the right direction:

i have a garden hut to which i have pulled a network cable (for a security camera) and have a littel POE switch in there too.
i would like to monitor the temperature (and ideally the humidity!) in the hut. Im thinking the best way would be some kind of IP thermometer which reports the temperature to HA.

i found something like this that could work (i think): https://sklep.inveo.com.pl/en/monitoring/95-nano-temp.html

but it seems expensive for what it is (100 euro). would there be a cheaper way to do this?

fringe moon
#

You could easily use a esp32 with ethernet port and sensors connected to that I guess

muted wasp
#

mmm ok. would be my first esp32 project.. ill see if i can learn how to do it

muted wasp
fringe moon
#

Looks reasonable to me, add a 3d printed enclosure and you are golden

merry elk
#

hi ! I would like to set up an integration which is triggered by an interphone handset ringing

#

using the local wifi

#

any suggestions ?

#

I mean more specifically make an integration which provides automations triggers

#

some kid of binary sensor triggered by the handset ringing

muted wasp
#

thank you at @fringe moon will give it a try!

valid frigate
muted wasp
#

thanks @valid frigate - i guess i would need the hub so would make price about the same as the unit i found. but will keep it in mind!

valid frigate
merry elk
#

ideally withut soldering, I was imagining something I could plug the handset into that connects in line

#

but searching for "smart interfone handset" just brings back results for smart doorbells, smart video porters etc, which is not what I am looking for

fringe moon
#

I think I have replaced 3 batteries in over 2 years of using aqara sensors

merry elk
#

anybody here done anything like that ?

long charm
#

what do folks recommend for lighting automation? is it better to do a zigbee switch (i'm running zha) or get wifi bulbs? i just want something that will turn the bulb off if the light has been left on a certain amount of time (say 5-10 minutes)

fringe moon
#

On 30+ devices

#

ZigBee for bulbs and sensors @long charm I control all rooms individually as needed

#

And dim my lights throughout the day

valid frigate
#

yep I just added replaced a lot with the aqara ones (door, temp and motion).

#

since I started ha 3 months ago I also replaced all house light switches with the aqara opple ones

merry elk
#

Zeb

fringe moon
#

I have one dumb bulb left in the house

#

Have 80ish bulbs from ikea

merry elk
#

that's what I am doing - then just set everyhting up thru automation

#

easy enough to wire it into one smart swith then cut the wire when you change the bulb

long charm
merry elk
#

zeb: yes

#

the bulb needs to be on all the time to reciev commands

valid frigate
#

I permanenly wired the cables in the wall and stuck battery aqara switches in there place 🙂 so no dumb switches left lol

long charm
#

i think a switch may be better for this specific use case (my wife keeps leaving the laundry room light on)

merry elk
#

if you have dumb bulbs, use a wire, if you have smart bulbs, dont

fringe moon
merry elk
#

I put in all smart switches anyway, even for the dumb bulbs

#

you only need to wire it one and then you can set up virutal prallelism

fringe moon
#

All rooms that aren't occupied turn their lights off after 15 minutes

merry elk
#

sitches are more flexible - you cn use them for both dumb and smar bulbs

long charm
fringe moon
#

I use some aqara wireless switches for guests

#

They are fine

long charm
#

i have an enbrighten switch today and it seems to freak out periodically and requires me to go out to the electrical panel and flip the whole circuit to reset

merry elk
#

anybody have a suggestion for my interphone idea ?

valid frigate
#

all my wall switches were removed, wires permanently connected and the aqara wireless ones put in place

merry elk
#

the idea is basically if I am listening to loud music or such, I might not hear it

#

so some kind of visual indicator would be cool

fringe moon
#

Anything can be used as a visual indicator

valid frigate
#

salsaman, just set up automation for lightbulb to flash if doorbell is rung

fringe moon
#

Smart tv, smart bulb, smart amplifier

merry elk
#

its not a doorbell

#

I want to trigger when the interpone rings

fringe moon
#

Connect an esp to the wires

#

Problem solved

merry elk
#

whats an esp ?

fringe moon
#

Small programmable thing

merry elk
#

you mean like an inline switch ?

fringe moon
#

No

#

Something that senses on the wires

merry elk
#

is that wifi ?

fringe moon
#

Yes

merry elk
#

cool ! you have alink for that please ?

fringe moon
#

AliExpress

#

There has been at least a dozen different projects that do what you want here before

#

Should be in the forums too

#

And on Google

merry elk
#

that is pretty much what I was looking for, though I was hoping there would be something specifically geared to phone connectors

#

right...but what's the part number of that imaage ?

fringe moon
#

Esp d1 mini

merry elk
#

great !

fringe moon
#

You can go even smaller

#

Esp01

merry elk
#

at least noiw I know where to begin looking

fringe moon
#

Or bigger with a nodemcu

merry elk
#

the main thing I was trying to figure out was whether I would need a specific handset, or if I could create a generic solution...well that is good to knwo !

fringe moon
#

Depends on the intercom

merry elk
#

pall the ones I have ever encountered work exactly like normal telephones

fringe moon
#

If it just goes high (5v etc) when it rings, it's easy

muted wasp
#

@valid frigate thanks for the info on teh aqara. not sure how to make that work because i would need to put a zigbee2mqqt receiver in my garden hut (its quite far from the main house where my HA server is)

merry elk
#

the handsets are interchangeable at least

#

cool, so it would just be a constant higher voltage ? is that it ?

valid frigate
merry elk
#

or is there a separate wire for the ringer ?

fringe moon
#

You need to find the manual

merry elk
#

fair enough

long charm
#

one more dumb question. single rocker vs double rocker - whats the difference?

#

just means you can wire 2 lights to it vs 1?

muted wasp
#

@valid frigate i'll give it a try!

merry elk
#

zeb: not sure about that, but a couple of things I learned - if you want (dumb) lamps to be controlled in parallel you need a different kind of switch

valid frigate
merry elk
#

also if installing smart switches they pretty much all need a neutral wire

long charm
#

yeah i am looking at these aqara ones that have an option for neutral or no neutral. i need to pop off the existing wall plate and check

#

$39.99 for a zigbee switch feels kinda spendy to me

merry elk
#

not sure how it would work without a neutral, mostly you need that so the switch board stays powered up even with the lights off

#

maybe a battery or something

long charm
#

yeah i think thats how it works. it basically always keeps the switch on

#

oh crap. i wonder if this makes it more complicated. the circuit has 2 dumb switches on it now, one upstairs and one downstairs. does this even work w/ smart switches?

merry elk
#

alsoif you want it dimable the neutral wire is used for that

#

zeb: yes

fringe moon
#

Lots of smart stuff work without neutral

merry elk
#

at least with the ones I have

#

you just connect the light to one switch then use automation to link the other switch to cotrol the first one

long charm
#

but it requires both switches to be smart?

merry elk
#

the bad side is yes you need neutral, the good side is you dont need wiring between the switches

long charm
#

so now im in $80 just to have my laundry room light turn off after a few minutes

valid frigate
#

just automate it to do it in HA

merry elk
#

zbe: why not just put in a dumb switch with a timer ? lol

long charm
#

the ceiling light is wired to two different wall switches today. both dumb switches.

merry elk
#

the kind where you twist the knob

valid frigate
#

you dont need a switch for that, just buy a cheap hive or osram smart bulb and connect to zha or zigbee2mqtt

#

blank off the switches and put a smart battery button on top of one of them

#

30 dollars max dont worry how the covers look its the laundry room 😛

merry elk
#

yeah smart bulb would work as atimer too

#

save the hassle of changing the switches

long charm
#

bulb might be the way to go then

merry elk
#

if you dont need to switch it on, only switch it off then it doesnt matter if somebody switches it off manually

fringe moon
#

Smart bulb > smart switch for me anytime

#

Then add wireless smart switches as needed

#

If needed

#

I mostly just use motion and door sensors

merry elk
#

*wall

valid frigate
fringe moon
#

Not really an issue, we never switch them off, and none of my guests seem to do either

long charm
#

what do you like for wifi lightbulbs?

fringe moon
#

Preferably not

#

ZigBee > wifi

merry elk
#

if the router goes down for some reason

#

then you are stuck without switches

valid frigate
merry elk
#

worse if using cloud services

#

true

long charm
#

if either my zigbee controller or wifi router goes down, my automations are out, but probably in that case my power is out anyway

merry elk
#

dont really understand all that zigbee stuff - is it similar to bluetooth ?

#

I know its all over radio

long charm
#

and all i want to do is if someone turns the light on, to automatically turn it off after 10 minutes

valid frigate
#

yes zeb, so smart bulb and automation

merry elk
#

seems kind of old fashioned to me

valid frigate
#

or a cheap switch

long charm
#

my understanding is that zigbee devices can operate for a long time on a small battery, so its good for things like contact sensors, temp/humidity sensors, where you just need periodic small bits of data

merry elk
#

ah makes sense I suppose

fringe moon
#

ZigBee is also mesh

valid frigate
#

zigbee is low powered so yes last a long time

fringe moon
#

Which wifi devices does not

merry elk
#

I am not sure whther its a genral thing, but it seems like it has one big limitation - the switches I have seem to use something like that to communicate between devices

#

but if you try to set up one button to control other buttons on the same unit, it goes crazy

#

I guess it doesnt work if you try to transmit and recieve from the same place

fringe moon
merry elk
#

is that a general limitation ?

fringe moon
#

What is?

merry elk
#

not being able to transmit and receive with the same device

fringe moon
#

It isn't a real life limitation for me at least

merry elk
#

I had the idea that on boards with multiple switches, I could make one button activat5e all te others

fringe moon
#

Things happen instantaneous here, and all my stuff is adjusted throughout the day

merry elk
#

the only way to do it is to have activate a button on another switch board then have that second button ping back

#

just curios, thats all

#

whether it is specific to this device or to all devices

long charm
#

thx for the input on this stuff. im gonna try some cheap wifi bulbs and see how i like them.

merry elk
#

good luck zeb !

long charm
#

for $7 seems fairly low risk

merry elk
#

oh btw zeb: you can also get smart light sockets

#

you can screw a dumb bulb into them and it becomes a smart bulb

#

maybe check that out too

long charm
#

i dont have room in the fixture in this case, but yeah ive seen those

merry elk
#

could work out even cheaper

#

OK thanks for the tips ! I also need to get going

#

nice chatting

valid frigate
valid frigate
fringe moon
hollow lance
#

that's perfect

burnt coral
#

Question regarding Tuya. If the device is in the list (https://templates.blakadder.com/), it is Tuya compatible and will work with the Tuya integration? I've been down the Tasmotizer route, to keep it out of the cloud, and have been frustrated by the chip and firmware upgrades preventing my hack attempts.

winged knoll
#

Tasmota Supported Devices Repository

#

So, nothing to do with the Tuya integration I'm afraid

burnt coral
#

That is frustrating.

winged knoll
#

Buy something that's designed for local control instead then... shrug

burnt coral
#

I will take the plunge and will convert most of the house to E27 from B22 fittings. I ordered a heap of Ikea lights and a ConBeeII.

#

I was finally in a house with one type of light fitting.

fringe moon
#

Ikea lights are great

#

Conbee is.... Hit or miss

#

From what I've seen

burnt coral
#

I don't mind tinkering to get a result. I haven't had any luck with my Tasmota globe selection. Four different cheap globes and no luck.

fringe moon
#

With a modern TI coordinator and Zigbee2mqtt there is no tinkering

burnt coral
#

I see there are some popular blueprints to speed things up.

fringe moon
#

Eh, I've never had use for any blueprint yet

burnt coral
#

As a bonus, the Ikea globes, I ordered, come with a shortcut button for the same price as a globe. I didn't even know I wanted a short cut button. But there is a blueprint for that so I will see what it does.

warm basin
#

The IKEA light remote is very nice. 5 buttons, and you can bind to long presses to for a total of 10 events you can hook into

warped creek
#

Hello, is it possible to integrate the new Aqara E1 door sensors into Home Assistent using a Deconz ConBeeII stick? Or are they unsupported yet?

winged knoll
#

#zigbee-archived would be able to help - keep in mind it's the Zigbee integration you use that matters, as explained in the channel topic there

warped creek
#

Ok. Thx. I will have a look in the correct channel.

fossil perch
#

Is there a smart "plug" that detects power state change on that receptacle? I am looking for this as a work around to lacking a neutral wire in a three way switch setup. My bedroom pair of switches work on one plug on one receptacle. All I want is **instant ** notification that the receptacle has changed power state so HA can act on that event.

glossy prism
#

Energy monitoring smart plug

fossil perch
#

It would be even better if that smart plug could provide power either way, the receptacle has one switched and one always on plug in it.

glossy prism
#

Sonoff S31 (not the Lite version) is a good choice and is easily flashable with tasmota or ESPHome for local control

fossil perch
#

Wouldn't it take a while to connect to wifi then transmit it's power state? Remember I want to know when the plug is turned off too.

glossy prism
#

No, the plug is always connected to your network

#

Oh

fossil perch
#

How does it get power when the plug is off?

glossy prism
#

Yeah I see the issue lol

#

With Tasmota at least, stuff goes unavailable pretty quickly when losing power

#

Lemme just confirm that

fossil perch
#

I want to know immediately.

glossy prism
#

i'm not sure you're going to find something that will work like that

fossil perch
#

I wonder if I can fit an Aeotec Nanoswitch into a 6 outlet plug adaptor

glossy prism
#

likely not

#

sounds like you really just need a no-neutral 3-way switch, but i'm not sure if that exists. i know no-neutral single pole switches/dimmer exist, but not sure about 3-way

#

is it possible practical to pull a neutral wire to one switch location?

fossil perch
#

Of course it's possible I just don't want to have to do drywall repair and paint.

glossy prism
#

well i meant without opening up the wall such as if your wiring is in conduit (like mine is)

fossil perch
#

No I have no conduit. It's not required by code so no builder around here would do that.

glossy prism
#

there, correction

fossil perch
#

🙂

#

What is the smallest Nanoswitch like product? That one is 20mm deep, that sounds too big.

#

Or are there smart receptacles that have a switched input similar to how normal receptacles can have the hot input separated?

lunar tapir
#

Any recommendations for lawn irrigation controllers that play nice with HA ?

hearty condor
#

Looking at setting up a temperature sensor to control a small space heater on a smart outlet. Looks like the most common suggestion is a Aqara temp sensor and a USB Zigbee receiver. Is this what y’all would suggest?

gloomy wigeon
#

I found a couple old Sonoff devices in a box, Sonoff S20 and sonoff basics. I followed the guide on tasmota https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Getting-Started/#flashing and flashed them all successfully. However only the basics work properly (green flashing light and creates an ap). The S20 on the other hand does not flash or create an AP. I've redone the flashing successfully multiple times but still the same issue. Does anyone have an idea of what is wrong?

hollow lance
fossil perch
#

Why?

ebon island
#

Hey guys, I would like to replace my Arlo cam environment. I need wifi cams (with direct power supply or battery, doesn’t matter). Any advice besides reolink? What works best with HA?

fossil perch
#

I mean the Sonoff one is quite cheap and works.

ebon island
lunar tapir
tiny smelt
#

Can someone explain the point of smart radiator valves to me? Are they just a way of turning the radiators on / off in a room and setting a temp limit?

What happens if it’s say 16 deg in a room and the target temp is 20 deg but the heating is off - do the valves need a way to trigger the heating system?

cerulean ermine
toxic dirge
#

lookin for motion sensor recomendations

glossy prism
#

what protocol @toxic dirge ?

toxic dirge
#

open to ideas

#

i have the nortek dongle so i got zigbee and zwave

#

also looking for a good actual bulb rgbw bulb set to flash tas onto but thats a whole different thing

#

trying to find bright as fuck ones

glossy prism
#

i like the third gen iris zigbee motion sensors

#

as far as flashable bulbs... what form factor?

toxic dirge
#

normal us socket

#

and like any size really they are open old school light sockets

#

they would fit big bulbs

#

just figure we NEVER use them so swapping them for rgbw bulbs which we could dim, we would totally use

glossy prism
#

i have photos on digiblur's discord server (not sure if you're familiar with him)

toxic dirge
#

also eventually i want my pc to control them to make the whole room light up red for stupid shit

#

im not

#

im fine with opening up and soldering

#

all about cheapness so i could afford more ya know, lol

glossy prism
#

i'll grab the photos and descriptions, one sec

toxic dirge
#

so you have this set flashed already? how bright are they?

#

and how dim can they go

glossy prism
#

i was pleasantly surprised with the max brightness

#

i don't dim them though, so i haven't tried that

toxic dirge
#

word i mean if you like them though, thats 1 heck of a deal

#

i assume the flashing wasnt tooooo hard

glossy prism
#

remove plug at the bottom (razor blade works well here--watch your fingers!)

PXL_20210829_185357975.jpg
#

remove screw base (channel locks adjusted to just the right width helps here; twist while pulling outward)

PXL_20210829_185426652.jpg
#

pry up between the LED PCB and body of the light

PXL_20210829_185436800.jpg
#

money shot! easy to use a jig

PXL_20210829_185544720.jpg
#

do note that the colors for line and neutral are reversed. white is line, black is neutral. the silkscreen on the board reflects that

PXL_20210829_184207875.jpg
#

reassemble by following these directions in reverse, obvi

#

unfortunately this is what it's come to as far as finding stuff that's flashable with tas. some stuff is still tuya-convertable, but that's rare, and tuya has been moving away from ESPs entirely

toxic dirge
#

i mean if it means ripping things apart im fine with that as long as it's still possible

#

and then just hook up the pins as normal for that chip?

glossy prism
#

yep

toxic dirge
#

i assume solder to the top part of the pads

glossy prism
#

or use a jig if you have one

toxic dirge
#

i do not

#

oh no shit, the merkury ones are flashable?

#

those are at my local walmart

glossy prism
#

maybe

toxic dirge
#

sooooo

#

this tuya convert, thats the OTA method right?

glossy prism
#

yeah

toxic dirge
#

should anything that cant be OTA anymore, still be able to be serial flashed?

glossy prism
#

if it's an ESP8266/8285, yeah. those can always be serial flashed

toxic dirge
#

just for instance

#

this doesnt list that it can be serial flashed, but i mean, wouldnt it be able to also?

glossy prism
#

if it's an ESP8266/8285, yeah. those can always be serial flashed

#

if it's not an ESP, it's not flashable

#

like i mentioned before, tuya has been moving away from ESPs for a while now, so it's ultimately a crapshoot at this point with products if they still have an ESP or not

toxic dirge
#

but like, is tuya a chip maker? or the company making random products?

glossy prism
#

tuya provides the cloud services for anything that uses the tuya smart or smart life apps (or the many rebranded apps that use their cloud services). they also manufacture wi-fi modules for use in products that are designed to use their cloud services

#

the TYWExx line of modules is ESP based, but they have been moving away from those wi-fi modules because it's cheaper than using ESPs and/or because that solves the issue of people flashing custom firmware on their devices

toxic dirge
#

ok so they are the ones saying, lets move our whole system away from using ESP's and use a different propriatary shit, which forces any cheap product makers to then be putting non esp's into their products

glossy prism
#

of course, dedicated nerds like me will just transplant an ESP on a product that uses a non-ESP module 😂

toxic dirge
#

well cause im impatient, and i'd totally stop at walmart tomorrow and see if they had something i could grab

glossy prism
#

no guarantee it still uses an ESP unfortunately, but it's worth a shot

toxic dirge
#

so like, is it just a crap shoot to know if a product is an updated version? basicly at the whim of the manufactuer to make it known theres a new chip with a "v2" someplace right?

#

same product number

#

half of those bulbs have been on the shelf since they came out, LOL

glossy prism
#

basicly at the whim of the manufactuer to make it known theres a new chip with a "v2" someplace right
you'd be lucky if you even get that

toxic dirge
#

so the only way to know if tuya would work, is to get them

#

then what, connect them but instead of using the app, use tuya convert to connect them and config to take tas OTA flash?

glossy prism
#

pretty much (to the "is to get them" comment). sometimes people figure out certain date codes that contain unflashable modules

#

then what, connect them but instead of using the app, use tuya convert to connect them and config to take tas OTA flash?
you'd be insanely lucky to find an ESP-based product that still works with tuya-convert

toxic dirge
#

so basicly, i get those, and im like 90% not gona OTA them, and then only like 50/50 if i open them

#

lol

glossy prism
#

i'd say 99% likely to not work with tuya-convert

#

you want the manufacturer to be Espressif

toxic dirge
#

everything gotta be complicated

#

but 10 for 2 bulbs and effort is better then 30 for 2 bulbs

glossy prism
#

tbh i love this shit anyway, so it doesn't stop me 😄

toxic dirge
#

so how likely you think merkury uses a esp variant?

glossy prism
#

i have no idea

#

it really just is a crapshoot at this point and can heavily depend on how old the stock is

toxic dirge
#

well i guess ill order what you know works

#

and maybe if im feeling saucey ill grab that pack at walmart tomorrow

#

and rip them apart and ruin it enough to not be reassembled

#

YA KNOW

#

sooooooo to be clear tho

#

tuya convert would work if the mac address leads back to espressif?

glossy prism
#

no

#

it would work if it's an ESP, uses tuya's cloud backend, and the firmware hasn't been upgraded to the version that patches the tuya-convert exploit

toxic dirge
#

GOTCHA

#

mk

#

well lets hope for esp based shit

#

i would almost guess gotta be DAMN close to what you posted

#

oh you wouldnt know which aroma diffuser is still flashable would you?

#

lol

#

i want it to smell nice when i trigger motion sensor

#

lol

#

also the pet water fountian would be cool

#

i wana flash all the things

#

and put them on the network

glossy prism
#

nope

toxic dirge
#

i found ones that look the exact same but basicly it's all crap shoot at this point i guess

#

im legit gona start tearing apart any old wifi devices to look for esp's and the spin off chips

#

lol

glossy prism
#

lol i'd definitely recommend the MAC address lookup method first

toxic dirge
#

I really wana find an aroma diffuser

#

I wana spritz

hollow lance
drifting grove
#

I've been looking for info but cant seem to find it nowhere. Can I install home assistant in a Raspberry Pi 2?

hollow lance
#

You can but it won’t run very well

#

If it runs at all

winged knoll
#

It runs... slowly

#

If you're thinking of testing it there, go for it (if you can work out how). If you're thinking of running it live... ablobjoy blobcsignno

ebon island
fluid vault
#

does anyone else have issues with booting homeassistant with both a zigbee transceiver and an rfxtrx300e connected to it ?
I've done a series of reboot tests yesterday (my wife still hates me for having to get up to switch the lights on/off 🤣), and it turns out that if both are plugged in, the rfxtrx component will fail to setup because it can't communicate with the transceiver, and if I unplug zigbee, wait for HA to be fully booted and then plug in zigbee, there is no problem

#

my platform is a intelnuc btw

muted arch
#

Is there a smart power strip that allows to turn on and off individual sockets?
For EU market

tiny smelt
serene kettle
#

Can anyone tell me if I need to change anything on my Udm Pro settings to make HA Blue work? I have my original router in bridge mode and the udm pro behind it. With my Ha Blue plugged into the udm pro, but it's not being recognized in the unifi network. Also nothing is showing on homeassistant.local? Thanks so much

drifting grove
drifting grove
stiff wyvern
#

does anyone know how to make a tasmota switch only work if held down for a period of time?

bright jacinthBOT
cerulean ermine
# tiny smelt That relies on the heating system being on 100% of the time though? There’s no w...

The circulator is always on, but the boiler will shut off when the water hits the high temperature. Each system is a little different, but in most TRV systems each radiator has a bypass, so when the TRV turns the flow to the radiator off, the water flows right around it and no water goes through the radiator. This allows you to change the heating settings of individual rooms. So yes its always on, but not always adding heat to the space, and circulating hot water through bypasses will only add a minimal amount of heat to the room. Add an outdoor reset to change the temperature of the boiler water based on how warm it is outside for even more energy savings, and also a variable speed circulator pump can save energy by adjusting the output based on how many radiators are calling for heat. If you have a thermostat as well, I would think you'd just leave it on always and set it to a high temperature so the TRV's turn the heat on and off to each room (set at lower temperatures). Say you set the house thermostat to 75, then each individual room to 68, the thermostat stays on the whole time but can shut the system down when the house warms up on a warm day. Individual rooms don't go above 68 degrees. Setup motion sensors or other automations to raise and lower heat in individual rooms with smart TRVs, and leave the main thermostat alone (it can just be "dumb" even)

steel mist
#

Hi guys. I bought CC2531 Zigbee USB on Aliexpress, but it seems it came without firmware. Unfortunately, idk how to check if there firmware at all 😅
Issue is following: I'm trying to add it to HA via GUI ZHA integration. Device is recognized in integration as usb-Texas_Instruments_TI_CC2531_USB_CDC___0X00124B001CCCAF3C-if00 on serial port /dev/ttyACM0, I can choose it from drop down. But on last step, when I click on submit, I got "failed to connect" without any other message and without anything in logs. So 2 questions:

#
  1. Is there some simple way to check if there is firmware on it and what version
#
  1. If there is no firmware, could it be flashed with FDTI or with CH340G programmer (this is only what I currently have 🙂 )
#

Thx

winged knoll
#

Terrible choice for the adapter

mint night
#

Hello! I want to unpair my Phillips Hue bulbs from Hue Hub and pair them to HomeAssistant with ZHA. I wanted to ask - will I be able to control power on behavior? Like what happens after it turns on - stays on, off, recovers previous state, etc?

winged knoll
mint night
#

Thanks for redirecting

steel mist
tiny smelt
silk gazelle
#

Didn't really know where to post...but here goes.

I can't access HA on its local IP, yet its external address I can. It doesn't respond to pings. Checked open ports and it's showing nothing. my automations still run and all that jazz.

I suspect its because I moved it from a dhcp to static. But I've restarted my router and nothing.

#

I connect externally using nabu casa cloud

toxic dirge
#

@glossy prism i grabbed that 2 pack of merkury bulbs, they have all older markings, imma rip on open while at work, its slow today

toxic dirge
#

Anyone know if any aroma diffusers can still flash tas?

#

@zealous dune

#

You might be the guy to ask lol

zealous dune
#

Depends on what you mean by flash tas

toxic dirge
#

Im just looking for an aroma diffuser that is still flashable

#

Im fine with opening and serial flashing

zealous dune
#

It's a lottery these days whether you'll get an unsupported chip

toxic dirge
#

yeah just lost on merkury bulbs, they had the wb2l chip

#

Any you know of have the best chance? Or if need be, i can put my own esp in?

#

This looks promising

cerulean ermine
# tiny smelt Having the boiler run continuously seems massively wasteful. The whole point (at...

The boiler doesn't run constantly, the aquastat shuts it off when the water reaches high temperature. There is a lot of debate over whether setback thermostats are more efficient, or constant temperature with an outdoor reset just keeping up with the building's heat loss is more efficient. I would look at the posts on this forum for more info - hydronic heating is a very complex topic with a lot of different opinions. https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/806245#Comment_806245

toxic dirge
#

Better off imo having the circ pump run all the time to urk out all thebheat from it, and only kick boiler just enough to keep it warm enough to keep temp

tiny smelt
silk gazelle
silk gazelle
toxic dirge
#

I was thinking of nabbing this

#

And hoping at worst i could put an esp in it

silk gazelle
cerulean ermine
# toxic dirge Better off imo having the circ pump run all the time to urk out all thebheat fro...

My gas usage decreased and bill went down a lot after installing outdoor reset on my condensing boiler. I don't have a connected thermostat - I have 3 "dumb" thermostats (have tri-level baseboard). The two downstairs go down a few degrees overnight but that's about it. Otherwise temp is pretty constant in the house always. I think the key is run circulator all the time and just heat enough to keep up with building's heat loss. Many boilers are way oversized and waste a lot of heat bringing water up to 180 degrees all season long (even in fall and spring). I'm in a very cold climate too so that is a factor in how you do it. Here's a good article about outdoor reset - https://www.usboiler.net/what-is-outdoor-reset-control.html

silk gazelle
#

Probably cost me £8?

toxic dirge
#

@cerulean ermine ahh, we just turn our heating boiler off in spring after last frost and on in fall again so its totally off

#

i am the outdoor reset lol

toxic dirge
#

I need to find bulk d1 minis i think

#

Make everything wifi

errant fossil
#

Please. I need help. I seem to have broken my brand new HA Blue after trying to install DuckDNS.

#

Where can I go to get some guidance? Even a factory reset will be fine since I just installed it brand new today.

dense horizon
#

Hi can someone help me add my Techlife pro wife led controller to home assistant? I can't figure it out.

#

I have this controller and would love to integrate it to home assistant

karmic cargo
#

I just soldered together a WeMos and a DHT. I flashed it using esphome-flasher (Win) and I'm getting this:

# 
[17:34:12][W][dht:167]: Requesting data from DHT failed!
[17:34:12][W][dht:060]: Invalid readings! Please check your wiring (pull-up resistor, pin number) and consider manually specifying the DHT model using the model option.
[17:34:12][D][sensor:113]: 'Guest Bath Temperature': Sending state nan °C with 0 decimals of accuracy
[17:34:12][D][sensor:113]: 'Guest Bath Humidity': Sending state nan % with 0 decimals of accuracy
#

My soldering skillz ain't the greatest, so I was checking continuity pin-to-pin to see if I'd blobbed to much solder on. I've got continuity from G to D4 (which is where this DHT sends data from). Is that the likely cause of the error or is something else borken?

#

I have tried to clean up the solder job with some solder wick, but no matter what I do I seem to get continuity across those 2 pins.

karmic cargo
#

OK, sorry. Should have posted this in #diy-archived . Turns out it didn't have anything to do with my soldering skillz, but that I specified pin 4 instead of D4...

karmic lagoon
#

Do I need speakers?

#

Like, can I get it to play stuff off YouTube?

sick sable
#

What do I do when HA reports a switch as dead?

tepid heart
#

CPR?

#

What sort of switch?

sick sable
#

I specifically got the 2-pack, but the other switch is fine. So far, anyways

tepid heart
sick sable
#

Okay

#

I think the switch is proper dead, even triggering it manually doesn't do anything.

bold flax
#

On this 4 gang athom/tasmota wall switches. Can I use those buttons to trigger whatever I want even if it's not connected to a device behind it? Like, button 3 was pushed, play XYZ on sonos

#

Or if there a better option if I just need a wifi button (tasmota preferred) that I'll use as a trigger?

hollow lance
#

Turn on a light and open your garage door

#

Turn on a light and send a push notification that you like big butts and you cannot lie

bold flax
#

I tried to get sonos text to speech working, but I guess my connect is too old

heady swift
#

Looking to set up a docker hass instance, mostly for automating a few switches, alongside wireguard for remote access. I've got some old (6-14 years) laptops sitting around, seems like since the goal is just these two applications it shouldn't require much in the way of cpu or ram. Am I fooling myself thinking I can get away with using a core 2 duo machine from 2007 for this?

bold flax
#

can those sonoff motion detectors determine if it's light or dark in the area by chance?

glossy prism
#

@heady swift I'm sure it'll be fine

#

@bold flax SNZB-03? Nope

hollow lance
#

the aqara equivalent do lux

bold flax
#

I'm thinking the sunset sensor should do the trick

hollow lance
#

yeah aqara sensors have light capability

spark mango
#

Hello

#

Maybe someone here can help me. I just bought my first zigbee dongle

#

But im to stupid to set up zha 😦

#

ITead Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus is the device

#

Flashed with original fw, but also tried newest zstack, when i start zha in the integrations it shows the device, i can set the radio type and in the dialog after for hardware flow etc i get a message, cant connect to device

#

Hassos on Proxmox