#hardware-archived
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Ok, do you know is there any difference between that and most other sticks? Is it worth to put a hub between, or should all sticks perform similiar
Cool, I think I wan't them separated for now. Thanks a bunch
but your goal was avoid to the Pi4 problem, so that's easy
Howdy folks: I have a Mini-Split AC unit in my garage. It's a Mitusbishi with their Kumo cloud module on it so I can control it and get readings on it. The only problem is the module.climate only shows a "On/Off" of the actual setting, not whether the compressor is on or anything. I was thinking of hooking some sort of passive voltage reader to the system to basically say "Compressor is on" and using that. Does that sound like anything anyone has run into before?
is there a popular LoRa gateway that people like? standalone like Tubes' zigbee controller, or a pi hat or something?
Amazon RMA is your friend. I have this and works well.
TNP USB 3.0 to SATA Adapter Cable... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XWQKGDX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Can anyone recommend me bluetooth 4 gang power plug, that can be controlled by Home assistant. Need to be able to turn on and off each socket separately (wifi wont work, as I will be turning that on and off with HA). Thanks
I have an i2c device (pca9685) that seems to stop responding to commands every few weeks. It seems the i2c commands are being sent, the PCA9685 just stops responding. Then after many power cycles and fiddling, it decides to come back online and I've never figured out the cause. This is being controlled through a pretty standard esphome on a esp32 poe device. Is i2c somewhat flaky like this in general?
The leads to the device are fairly long at 24". I haven't measured capacitance yet but I think that may be at play. It's also being run at 5v, vs the 3v of the esp32, which could also be an issue. The weird thing is that it works perfectly for weeks, then decides to quit like this.
I just changed my router and my hue bridge was not setup with a static IP. I'm now trying to get it working again but I'm bumping into some issues.
I'm reading through the comments here: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/f6ujuq/hue_bridge_wont_connect_after_swapping_router/
It sounds like I need to delete a token in .storage so then the hue integration will detect the bridge again, but I'm struggling to find the token. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
I figured it out..
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/philips-hue-reset-new-ip/213355
hey folks... new to HA so apologies if this is a "here we go again" question... i'm trying to figure out what line of affordable hardware works best with HA.. any suggestions for an outdoor camera that is HA friendly? i'd like to record on movement (preferably locally) etc..
There are a lot. You are going to have to be a bit more specific. Like price range, resolution, etc... Maybe also ask in #cameras-archived
price range maybe 300-400? resolution 1080P...
got lots of stuff I want to do.. two-way comms doorbell, camera, alarm system with sensors, and garage door sensor... so much stuff to look into π
You will get a very good camera for that price. There are some excellent models available for $100 to $200. Check out this playlist https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWJZa-u8OWk&list=PL-51DG-VULPom8Ud6vdf56Oeq51yA2xlp
that's really useful.. thanks! eufy cam looks pretty good
If you want battery powered. Personally I would go PoE.
Watch this one: https://youtu.be/WXD82epDPE4?t=555
A couple of different types, all old. Hikvision HIK-2CD2355FWDI2, they're ok. You can get much better night vision now. And also some much older Vivotek FE8172V. Terrible night vision. Great FOV. Again, there are better options available today.
Yes apparently that is a good choice.
if I want to record using motion detection, I need something like motionEye right?
A lot of people here use Frigate for person detection. Not sure about the recording.
thanks @tepid heart for the links to useful videos
Using Lutron Aurora, whats the best way to use it as a switch and dimmer? I have it showing up as a zigbee device do I use scene, automation, script?
If it's a Zigbee device then it depends on which #zigbee-archived integration you used
If you have light entities then you use the light #integrations-archived service calls. If it's a switch then switch service calls, etc
For the actions of it you'll need either state or event #automations-archived triggers, depending on the Zigbee side
It shows up as a switch, I used the hubz integration but will switch when my new controller gets here
There is no hubz integration
There's ZHA, Zigbee2MQTT, and deCONZ for #zigbee-archived
oh, how can I tell? Which one should I use? I see mqtt referenced all the time seems like a good one..
Head over to #zigbee-archived and they can guide you
Your choice is shaped by the stick you have, if you have it already
I have a hubz stick but I'm sending it back I have this on the way https://www.tubeszb.com/product/efr32-pro-ethernet-serial-coordinator/5?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=2
That gives you two choices then
hello
Ahoy-hoy.
sorry to bother you but i really need some help
so, i have bought a smart home module called MOES
and whenever i install it behind the switches its wifi connection disconnects
or the wifi connection will be too low for the module to pick up
i am soo trapped because of this
i think after some searching that the electic box which the switches go on might be the problem
its is metal
so is there any way i can boost the signal or add an antenna on the module
Probably easier to get a non metallic firebox
you could add an antenna but its no guarantee the signal will be boosted
i need this to go inside the box and i cant remove the metal box now
can you please explain....
Why does the myq garage door have a gateway and a garage door?
That'd be for #integrations-archived really
Ohh I will place it over there π
I have a https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000298926256.html without neutral switch and it works well however it is causing my LED driver to hum. any thoughts on what the cause could be?
Hey everyone
I just found out about Home Assistant. Would like to maybe set something up. I have some various smart devices I wouldn't mind to try it out with
I also would like to maybe add a device but don't know what I need yet to pull it off. A 24V relay to a humidifier, triggered based on RH% from an Ecobee would be cool
i've seen some mentions of Raspberry PIs, but i have an Ubuntu box at home I wouldn't mind to install something on it if that makes sense
seen pages talking about hubs. Not sure if I'd need to add one, or what either. Total n00b to Home Assistant
I have some various wifi lightswitches, Phillips Hue bulbs, wemo devices also
is there a WIFI6 Router with Zigbee and ZWave built in to reduce hubs etc?
I already have a Phillips Hue hub. Not wild about adding things, would rather be reducing hardware hopefully
I get buzzing in my Phillips Hue bulbs and i read that it might be because i have them on a dimmer switch. Didn't know people hooked lightswitches up to 220V.. that description accurate?
What else do you hook light switches to?
110?
That's true for some countries
Yea, it's not a dimmer, I think that the device may be taking some of the power out of the line before it gets to the led driver and that's causing it to buzz
I need to get a multimeter on it to test. And learn how to use a multimeter...
So is everyone mainly using some sort of hub for the Home Assistant?
i guess, i think i have a variety of devices so wasn't really thinking about that when i was acquiring them
See the pinned messages in #zigbee-archived then - one advises of your options
so, like you get a Zigbee usb then try to buy all zigbee devices for example
@ashen lagoon When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
Indeed, well i'm open to replacing some items if needed
but Zigbee devices can communicate via each other?
Well, yes, but no, but maybe
therefore, don't need like WIFI access points and hubs around?
There's a guide to how Zigbee works pinned in the #zigbee-archived channel
I made a zigbee hub but this is not a normal thing to do
gotcha. anyone know if you can get the RH% from an ecobee then use Home Assistant to trigger a device when it hits/reaches a threshold?
Well, the whole point of HA is to allow you to "connect" things that you can't normally connect
So, yes... mostly
yeah, i figured it might be possible
didn't know if anyone here had done it in practice
That's pretty much what everybody does with HA
or if they would say "you can read the RH% but you can't trigger actions off of it" or something
Like, Alexa can tell me what my ecobee reports, but she won't do actions from it, from what i can recall
how's Alexa do with HA?
is there something else preferred?
or She do ok
Google Home works better IMO, but Alexa works
#voice-assistants-archived can tell you more
anyone know of a good 24v relay with zigbee?
There's lists of known working hardware pinned in ... #zigbee-archived π
Into wherever you run your Zigbee stack
#zigbee-archived can advise more there - could be your HA host, could be somewhere else, could even be network connected
I see
Hi Everyone, I bought these two wifi switches during prime days. First one is based on ESP and the second is based on Altobeam ALTBM6431. Anybody know if it is possible to tasmota or esphome or similar alternatives for these switches, or even a better alternative for a smart two way switch and 20A immersion heater switches . I basically want to integrate them to HA get it working without any cloud dependency. Appreciate any help.
- Alexa Smart Light Switch 2 Way 1... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08534WVRG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
- FreeLeben Water Heater Smart... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T7N9LFJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Wow, waterheater switch
you'll turn off the water heater when you're away?
or timer it?
Havenβt thought much about how to use it. Just wanted control it via HA since most other stuff are already on HA. I rarely use that as there is a boiler as well. Just have the option to turn it on or off without going to the switch
gotcha. I can't answer your question. I'm a new guy but hadn't thought about doing that. my water heater is hardwired I believe
i hadn't heard of ESP and ALtobeam, need to look those up
You will soon find π
#diy-archived should know more about flashing
anyone know if an android app exists that can control TV using HDMI CEC via mqtt or some sort of HTTP interface?
anyone recommend a bedside lamp that works with home assistant
any lamp with a smart plug-in module that meets your needs (zwave, zigbee, wifi, etc.) or a smart bulb
any sort of "smart lamp" would be well at the bottom of any list
I use a Yeelight strip right now, works pretty well
I'm looking for a switch that I can put behind a light switch. So if the switch is turned off then the zwave switch is off but if the switch is one then the zwave switch can decide whether or not to send power onwards
I found this which is 50 DOLLARS: https://aeotec.com/z-wave-outlet-socket/
But a regular zwave light switch is 20-30. They're functionally the same thing. Why are these so much more expensive?
Yeah, it doesn't say why you'd use that instead of just getting a smart switch.
Well, it works for outlets as well, so I guess that's why they feel it's worth more.
The reason I want it is for outdoor lights. If one of the kids turns on the switch and it's day time I don't want those lights going on
I guess I can have that restriction on a light switch as well
You could have an automation that turns the light off after 1 second between x and y
Or some other elegant solution
Hi everyone,
I have several ESP32 with different sensors which send json updates to my python backend. However, I would like to migrate everything to home assistant.
What is the best way to do this?
you could have your ESP32s send the JSON data to one or more Home Assistant webhooks, but the most maintainable way would be to migrate to ESPHome and its direct integration with HA
Looks awesome! Especially OTA flash! But how does the initially flash work?
No more shitty code! But HA is running inside a docker on a pi in a rack... Is there an option to do the initial flash from my windows PC?
you can download the built image, so I guess so. But the website would say for sure
So, i'm currently running HA on RPi 3 B+ with a 5V 2.5A power supply and am currently considering getting an external hdd to attach to it and use it as a media server, is there anything i should look out for when looking for one?
don't expect the 2.5A supply to also power the SSD
External power supply for the HDD, I got some undervoltage errors
not for HA, but for nextcloud, but I think this would be the same in your case
@gloomy spoke Thank you! ESPHome looks awesome and they even provide binaries for a flash tool for other PCs! Hopefully I won't have to write code or touch the Arduino IDE ever again π
thanks
I am not sure if this is the right place... my Rpi4 is showing an internal IP on eth0 - which is kind of screwing my almond server and also MQTT server listening...
where to get some help ...
probably #330990055533576204
ok thanks RobC
hi, can someone suggest any good smart plugs with power monitoring ? I am looking to monitor when my garage dryer cycle completes. Preferably zigbee based but wifi if that is not possible. many thanks in advance
For plugs the region is quite important. But if you're looking for #zigbee-archived check out the channel topic there. Blakadder has a nice list for devices
Not sure if this is the right channel but I am trying our almond. Can I use a usb headset on the rpi? I have tried and donβt think sound or mic are working
#voice-assistants-archived is the channel you're looking for
Anyone know of a temp sensor that can go down to -30C ? For a freezer at home. Usual temperature should be -18 to -25C. Prefer zigbee as they're low power.
This will do -55 if you are into DIY: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/diy-zigbee-4x-ds18b20-temperature-measurement/246584
Yep, i can diy it
I have all the stuff here too. Nice π
I didn't realise there were DIY zigbee modules like that available. Looks like I can finally get (make) my wish for a zigbee lawn moisture sensor.
The Nordic nRF52xxx zigbee devices have a built-in temp sensor, antenna and are very low power. I'll have to see if i can find some example firmware on how to use the zigbee features. May be able to make a very small temp sensor with a 3d printed case and a 2032 battery... wish me luck.
Perfect for placing inside a freezer.
The nRF52xx devices have a built-in ADC, so you could do that easily once the zigbee communication has been worked out. Give me a few weeks to look into the module..
The one in that project I linked to has multiple ADCs and looks cheap on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002567459314.html> Though it needs a licence for the PTVO software to access power saving mode ($7 licensed per device).
I'll write my own software, there's probably a 'getting started' application for the device in the SDK somewhere from Nordic.
ESPHome for zigbee would be really cool (devs, are you listening lol)
Hello, everybody, question about hardware capabilities accepted here ? Specifically broadlink ir blaster.
What's the question?
i'm trying to understand conceptually if it's can work as repeater i.e. i push the button on generic remote BL will record it and send to appliance. I.e. i'm trying to understand if i can sync between dumb remote and BL
or i need to hide all my remotes and force everybody use phone to make sure i know if AC is on or off ?
That's it's whole point in life π Taking IR inputs and routing them to the configured device.
Ohhhh... wait.
So, you have a physical remote and you fire it at the BL and then have the BL route the remote input to a device? Hmmm, no, I'm not sure that'll work. I'd have to test it with mine to see.
sound to me that it cannot be in listening mode all the time and work as a switch. But in configuration there is an option to define switch and it's confusing if it on/off switch or switch like network switch
its does not work on my setup and i wander if configuration problem or can't work . I would bet it cant but my brother claim that in his integration he can see TV is on even if it was pressed on physical remote.
i already sad to my family that i'm confiscating all remotes π before i do that i want to make sure i can't work with both ...
Unless the device itself can report status (TV, AC, whatever), then the BL basically approximates if the device is on or off depending on last state.
IR devices without some sort of connection cannot report their status. So, the BL takes the last state. So, for remotes themselves, AFAIK, the BL can't be listening to those while also being a transmitter.
to bad but this is was my expectation. because its needs to be put in listening mode to learn. But you know theoretically they can put 2 like WiFi repeater
anyway thanks for confirming
physical devices will be secure stored in unknown location
does anyone have a suggestion on a light flashing device that I can use to integrate with doorbell system? I could use a RGB bulb but im not sure how frequent I can change its color
Light flashing for visual alerts when someone rings the doorbell?
Smart lights can have their colour/whatever changed very frequently
I tried using HA's script to turn on/off the lifx bulb every 500ms, doesn't work very well. I could do 1 second but it seems pretty slow. if I get an RGB version of lifx bulb, do I still have to use the script to somehow make it flash frequently?
a good channel to ask about Shelly devices?
@twilit quartz ESPHome and a relay?
Use any light you want then, e.g. LED strip, 12V filament, etc.
Whats the question?
if any of the shelly devices support triggering ON/OFF events in home assistant, WITHOUT actually breaking the circuit of the lights it's attached to
see, i already have smart bulbs in the circuit. but no way to turn them "off" (soft off) - only actually off (hard off, no current)
I think the Shelly1 has inputs for a switch.
I solved the same issue you have by replacing the light switch with a stick-on zigbee switch.
battery powered i assume, and... not quite the same form factor of a classic toggle switch
?
Hang on i'll find it.
You have to change button type to detached switch and power on default mode to on in Shelly configuration.
oh, so with the Shelly1, you can do that?
shelly generally supports that option in their firmware
apart from shellies that don't require neutral
why maybe, it says so right on the page
These: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/WXKG07LM.html#xiaomi-wxkg07lm
Removed the real switch and used a wego so the bulb is always on (uk wiring, no neutral). Put a 3D printed thin plate on the wall backbox screwed in, then double sided thin 3M VHB tape'ed the zigbee switch to the 3d printed blanking plate. The zigbee switch sits flush to the wall and is 2mm deeper than the old switches. They look nice too.
Yes battery, lasts about 2 yrs
I'm ok with that, Home assistant tells me when the battery is getting low.
so realistically, getting the Shelly 1L and setting it to "Detached Switch" should do the trick for me. no neutral, keep the old fashioned toggle switch.
Nice, could be a good fallback option
I'm in the US FYI
yes and no, no neutral devices have some pitfalls which depend on the bulb used and your electricals
the bulbs don't use more than 1W total when in standby, so they don't reach any minimum load requirements
exactly
i have IKEA Tradfri smart bulbs in there, so that each time i turn the lights on, they are warm during the night, cold light at daytime
then you need to install the capacitor next to the light
what's the capacitor for?
oh. the "X" is a capacitor? any capacitor?
bypass is the capacitor
so this is what i would need: https://smarterhome.sk/en/shelly/shelly-1l-bypass-relay-switch-without-the-need-for-a-neutral-wire-1x-4a-wifi-911.html
yes
is there an official SHelly bypass device i can buy? or will any capacity work?
if you need to ask, get the official one
sso.. i can't seem to find the official one. it's not on their website? or i am just very blind.
yes. very blind.
hard to find in the US though
thank you both for the advice!
living in a no neutral house is hard
it took me 3 weekends to get ONE switch in my basement working with a new neutral line. i don't want to do that again π
No neutral is standard in the UK too. I've not used relays because if we move house, I don't want the hassle of uninstalling it all.
that's a good point.
I've just taken apart one of those zigbee switches i mentioned and there's a recess inside to allow it to be screwed directly to the backbox. I've fitted 6 of these now and never thought to look. What a dumbass. Could've saved a load of hassle making a blanking plate etc.
hey there.
anyone tried these out?
https://xiaomiplanets.com/xiaomi-smart-switches-with-display-3/
i am interested in
~~- how many and which batteries?
- battery life?~~
(seems to be wall mounted/powered) - is the temperature just a display or also a sensor?
I have installed a Zigbee mqtt usb device and it works fine. However on their site they suggest to connect it with a USB male to female cable to avoid interference. To do this can I disconnect the zigbee adapter while the Pi is running. Or should I shut down the whole system and then reconnect
The PI will gracefully handle unplugging and reinserting a USB device.
do they actually work?
sometimes
Brilliant π
thinking about getting a garden hose controller, am I better off with the Orbit with HA integration or the EVE with Homekit integration.. will that work with HA?
If anyone is using WD My Book for storage unplug it ASAP: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2021/06/mass-data-wipe-in-my-book-devices-prompts-warning-from-western-digital/
Hey guys, I know that it's offtopic, but maybe someone have knowledge and experience. What would be the best LTE Modem for livestreaming in the field?
Heard some good opinions about netgear
Anyone knows if there's a ESP8266/ESP32 doorbell that can act as a drop-in replacement to an existing mains one (that gets powered by a switch outside I can not replace)?
So I have a box full of fans, and the one small 5v fan I got on my pi 4 makes this annoying squicking sound, which apparaently im able to pick up on. So im running it without a fan now and it seems to be OK but quite hot.
So I have currently filled a shopping cart at pimoroni, but before I shelf out on a argon one v2 case, which seems a bit overkill when im not planning to use the m.2.
So long story short, checking with an adjustable power the 12V fan is completely noise free if running at 5V. Is that a good idea to connect it to the pi 4?
Pull the label off the centre of the fan and give it a tiny drop of oil.
hmm, I will try that. But testing a few fans with my adjustable power supply it was definitly quite noisy
but let me try that
So if I attached the fan inside the case it made a lot of noise if the case was mounted on the side (which it was attached to behind my tv cabinet) so what I did is that I mounted it on top of the lid and with that it makes no noise anymore!
temp is down to 40 degrees and fan is silent π so nice. Did do a drop of oil as well
only somewhat related to Home Assistant, but is this an OK place to ask for advice about wiring a smart switch in a 4 way setup?
Only if you include the country
USA
and a Zooz ZEN26 switch
you can include a Zooz switch in a circuit with a dumb 4 and 3 way switch. They have diagrams for setups where line and load are in the same 3 way switch box or separate 3 way switch boxes. My wiring has line and load all coming into the box in the middle with the 4 way switch, having trouble figuring out whether there's a way to wire this
Has anyone used these? or have a zigbee smoke detector they recommend? I found some of these in stock in china I can order - https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/JTYJ-GD-01LM_BW.html
well I hope they are good, ordered 9
Any recommendations for temperature sensors and light strips? I'm trying to get the temperature for different parts of the house while I redo my duct system to have gates that open and close according to the temperature
Disclosure- I donβt have a system up yet waiting to n hardware, but I was recommended Aqara sensors because they do well on battery life ans 2. They are available on Amazon
Or if you can wait allibabba
I have a couple of the aqara ones (temp, humidity and pressure) and at least Phillips and Osram/Ledvance motion/occupancy sensors also support temps
I have a few of the Aqara temperature sensors, and some of the Konke ones. Both work fine and have good battery life.
The Aqara motion and door/window sensors include temperature, but it's device temperature, and so not very useful
My door/window sensors don't include temps. Just link/battery/contact
I got 4 aqara ones bought this year, and 2 older ones
But I've noticed the device temps issue with the smart plugs from them. Usually 2-5 C above room
It probably depends on the integration you're using - Zigbee2MQTT does expose it in newer versions, but given that it's useless...
ahh, that might be it
For instance, I have two of their door/window sensors in the same bathroom. One on the door, one on the window. They're not even 2 meters apart. Right now the window is claiming 23C, and the door 27C. The temperature sensor says 21C...
π
I did consider using my 3D printer as temperature sensor
but I decided against it, so I don't have to clip so much
Hi can anyone recommend a compatible SSD for booting Pi 4 with Home Assistant
#330990055533576204 can if you're running that install method
I see too you've already been directed to https://jamesachambers.com/raspberry-pi-4-usb-boot-config-guide-for-ssd-flash-drives/
@winged knoll just looking at the list . I see this one available for low cost https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0851B6TCC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?language=en_US&ie=UTF8&linkCode=gs2&linkId=5abf14dce776e0757f518932c65b5a01&tag=codemallet-21 . Can I buy this Kingston SSD with this adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=ac3ff57cccf80300e3613080f234cb41&hsa_cr_id=3963697380002&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=c6fe007d-33f7-4cb0-875e-9529cc5d8ca2&pd_rd_w=JHhEt&pd_rd_wg=lcp4D&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img
You can truncate those URLs by removing ref=...
And, sure you can, but whether it works with HAOS or not... no idea
That's why I directed you to #330990055533576204
Hi there ! Considering I've more and more "smart devices" in my house... I have to admit that they are smart but annoying with many power wires (Broadlink for 433mhz+IR, Sensiboo for Heater automation, camera, etc).
For camera, I only choose battery models (Blink External are my best in slot), but for other devices...
Do you have an idea to make them autonomous ? For example with external batteries ? But how I must consider the amperage subject ?
(And, the best of the best would be able to monitor external batteries %)
Does someone already make this experience ?
If it expects mains power then batteries is unlikely to be a good choice
#diy-archived would be the place to ask for help though
Thanks for your reply. Initialy, Iβve posted it in #diy-archived, then move it here. I rollback :p
Why do you think itβs a bad solution for main supply (only 1A/5v devices for example) ?
@vast hatch When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
The devices are designed for mains power usage
So, they're not designed with power management in mind
Okay, so if my external battery has the right voltage+amperage (some have multiples amperages between outputs), itβs ok ?
For powering the device, yes
How long it'll run on battery... that's a different question
Without considering loss etc π¦
Worst case, it drains the battery at max rate and you get to change/recharge the batteries every few hours π
Stupid logic then : letβs go to solve that by always keep the external battery wired to 230V wall. XD
Thanks for your informations buddy
I mean, it may work, but it really depends on the device
Devices designed for battery power usually have a lot of power saving logic
is there a wat to power off specific leds running WS2818B with esphome. I want the first 2-4 leds out of 28 not to power on when turning "all" the LEDS on
ESPHome's Discord would know more, and #diy-archived here may well know too
Does anyone know what would differentiate a smart switch that switches a fan from one that switches a light? I recently bought a smart switch and the documentation states that fans should only be connected to the 2nd gang onwards. Was curious what the difference may be
does it offer fan speed control or anything fancy?
Nope no speed control, just switches the live wire on and off
Iβve actually connected the fan to the first gang (as something needs to be connected to gang 1 for the switch to work) and havenβt encountered any issues. Was wondering if there were any differences that may make this a bad idea
A fan is an inductive load. A light is (mostly) a restive load. Inductive loads can cause much larger currents to flow.
Also inductive loads can generate high voltages when switched off.
I see. Iβm reading that it is suggested to have other components parallel to the inductive load to help with spikes in voltages. Is that likely why the manufacturer suggests using the fan on gang 2?
I was originally using a light on gang 1 with the fan on gang 2. This required a capacitor on the light to prevent them from flickering (it is a no neutral switch). However the buzz from the capacitor was really loud. I found that switching the fan to gang 1 did not require a capacitor anymore
Im looking for recommendations for smart plugs in the UK which have energy monitoring built in them and work with HA. Saw a few suggestions about Gosund but not sure if they have energy monitoring built in. Thanks in advance!
The Salus SP600 (Zigbee) does
thnaks @winged knoll will take a look at them π
Hey, I have one of these LED Controllers: https://templates.blakadder.com/athom_LS5050C-TAS.html
It takes between 5 and 12 Volts DC. Does anyone know what it outputs to the LED strip? Most LED strips on sale are either 24 or 12V. So I assume Iβll need to use a 12V power supply for it and buy a 12V led strip.
From a quick Google, it looks like it outputs whatever you feed it
Makes sense. Thanks. Strange that it accepts as low as 5V, considering the led strips are either 12 or 24 volts
(At least the ones listed on amazon)
Has anyone dealt with a device reporting unusual voltage readings? My Zen W thermostat reports 6000 voltage readings. Clearly that's not the voltage for 4x AA batteries
Is that WiFi? Z-Wave? Zigbee? something else?
Sounds about right
#zigbee-archived will be able to confirm, but it looks like sensors typically report voltage x 1000
Maybe its just reporting in milivolts π
Wonderful. Thanks
There are a few places (my office/studio, our back yard, the kids rooms) where I would like to add RGB smart lights. All the interiors have recessed lights. I'm trying to hold off on getting hooked on the Phillips Hue train, and I've been considering some recessed and outdoor lights that are using the Tuya platform. How has other's experience been with Tuya smart bulbs? I think I've started to hear that their is custom firmware that can be flashed onto Tuya devices. Is that correct/recommended?
YMMV depending on the bulb. it could've been flashed but lately they come with new chips that don't yet have a custom firmware for them
Anyone have opinions on a vertical stand for a mac mini? It seems to be running warm, and I feel like it might help with cooling
Something like this: https://amzn.com/B08FD27KLL
Any recommendations on smart locks? Looking at the eufy but idk
Just haven't done any real research yet
Anyone familiar with LIFX bulbs? I have 14, but 4 of them keep crashing despite troubleshooting every which way
Do they have the latest firmware? You can check with the Lifx app.
Both Zigbee and ZWave products can work well with HA. As far as choosing one versus the other, or either vs. wifi, Google is probably your best bet, as is the forum
yes, there a bunch of compatible wifi options, and Tuya devices that can often be flashed with Tasmota
just put on a perforated shelf with a fan?
are you running it hard?
A little, 60% cpu consistently. I don't really have space for a shelf though...
My Homeassistant was down, I figured the SD card bit the dust but when I went to unplug my ZWAVE stick I found it melted to another USB cableβ¦
I'm using an Innr SP120 power plug to measure consumption. It also measures voltage but, according to HA it's exposed as an attribute of consumption instead of its own entity. Is there any way to create an entity out of this? Or any other way to graph the voltage?
Hi all, possibly not the right place to ask, but does anyone use a Mikrotik/RouterOS router for their smart home? I'm looking to try and create a separate network for all my HA stuff -- but have no idea where to begin.
Template sensor #integrations-archived (https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/template)
If you don't know how this works, you're in for a lot of learning pain, I'll warn you now
Damn. I haven't touched networking stuff for years. I'm looking at the RouterOS web UI.. it's a shambles.
Well, the challenge is more how networking works
I see a lot of people that go Oh, I'll just vlan off my IoT stuff and then there's tears
Sure, it's possible, but you need to start by working out everything HA communicates with, or that communicates with HA (like your phones). Then you have to decide whether HA sits with the IoT stuff, or not, and then you have the fun of realising that it's a lot harder than you think
Hmm I see what you mean.
Guess I'd want the HA instance to be connected to both networks. All stuff that doesn't require 'cloud' access can go onto the offline network, everything else onto the online network.
Keep in mind that things like cast and anything else that uses mDNS may no longer work at that point
You'll need an mDNS proxy
right, but those things would need to be on the online network anyways
or would they..
Some things will need to reach the Internet to function - like Google Home
Other things may not
As I said #hardware-archived message
You'll also really want to learn how your RouterOS stuff does VLANs, and the rest of your networking kit if it supports it
So is it the done thing with most folk using HA? Setting up vlans etc to isolate their stuff?
Interesting
Most folks don't even know what a VLAN is
I have the kit and the experience to do VLANs for IoT kit
- I don't have enough WiFi stuff to care
- I don't want the pain
damn it's really that bad.
@winged knoll thanks for the advice. I'll sleep on it.
Can confirm, have VLANS and it's a time sink if you are not a network engineer. I'm using Ubiquity
Guys - Roborock S6 MaxV or S7? What would you get?
well i got a Viomi S9 π
Howβs that go?
Bummer
does anyone know of a zigbee or wifi sound sensor? I'd like to make my dumb intercom system smart by getting a notification when it rings
If you're comfortable with a DIY version:
https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/44whno/are_there_any_zwave_sensors_that_detect_noise/cztj9pw?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share&context=3
@eternal mason well, that's always an option, but that's kinda out of budget + time required π
was hoping for a $15-$20 option just like light/motion/door/etc
Yeah lol, ideally there would be some button/sensor with a mic that could do that
advice from a non-professional (though lots of theory education) running multiple vlans, with HA on different than appliances:
If you have to think about it, just don't.
Is the right channel I hope? Using ESXi, grabbed vmdk, followed the guide on creating the VM, attaching hard drive, changing settings. No matter what get the 172.30.32.1 IP. Google that, seems to be issues with containers, not using docker. .. How do I get it to pull the right IP from DHCP?
well I was on the right track then, cause tons of google results on that one. thanks @gloomy spoke
And you need to set up a network bridge
Any idea why I'm getting phantom motion events with my ZigBee motion sensors only right after installing zwave in wall switches of the same room?
Happened to 3 different rooms. Installed a GE enbrighton zwave switch, then the ZigBee motion sensors of that room started to randomly get phantom motion
they use entirely different frequencies, so maybe it's seeing some weird IR activity
Interesting, moving the motion sensor seems to help, so that likely might be it
Just so bizarre it only started after installing the switches
I had to move a motion sensor because at certain times of the year when the sun would come through a window at a certain angle, it would sometimes reflect off of a pendulum clock and sometimes reflect back at the motion sensor in the room, causing my alarm to go off early in the morning. Good times
motion sensors are imperfect beasts
I dunno, it saw movement that was moving
lil' motion buddy probably sitting there looking for a pat on the back for finding something
does someone know of a plug-in nightlight-like (preferably) zigbee or z-wave device that can be remotely switched on/off, like some notification light? Having RGB colour would be a pre
@acoustic river posted a code wall, it is moved here --> https://paste.ubuntu.com/p/FXmCQSh4tT/
@acoustic river Rule #6: Please do not post codewalls (text longer than 15 lines) - use sites such as https://paste.ubuntu.com/ (just not Pastebin).
Please take the time now to review all of the rules and references in #rules.
wasnt aware of that, sorry
This however is not your install method channel
Then now is a good time to actually read the rules π
See the channel that matches Install type in
-> Info
I'm having trouble with my p1 cable and made a summarization of what i did with some lines of code.
asked my question firs in #551864459891703809 but was pointed to #integrations-archived which pointed me to here.
Getting this error: FileNotFoundError: [Errno 2] No such file or directory: '/dev/ttyUSB0'
The original question didn't include that error
However, did you really use pip install for HA?
i used pip install
Then check to see if that path exists on the host and that the user you run HA as has access
will do thnx
So you want me to check if the HA user has acces to /dev/ttyUSB0 right?
Yes
crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 188, 0 Jun 30 15:29 /dev/ttyUSB0
think i have access to it
Is the HA user a member of the dialout group?
just added it to dialout and tty group and did a reboot
But i will check if i added the user who runs HA
Hi, got one question (not sure if anyone can help me with this here). I have a part of an Airbus 321. Its the frame of the flight attendant panel next to the cockpit door. This frame i want to use for a display for my home assistant and it also features (by design) a pin entry panel. The question is about this panel. It has numbers on it of course and when they are pushed and confirmed by the dash key (and the pin is correct), a bell will make a sound in the cockpit (or on some models, there will be an indication on the center display in the cockpit). The cockpit crew then has the option to unlock the door (by a switch) or keep it closed. If they unlock it, there is a little light over the numbers on the pin entry panel. The green one will light up. If they decide to keep it closed, the red light will go on. This whole thing has a 15 pin seriell connector. I want to actually use this to arm or disarm my home assistant alarm (which should then by an automation turn on the green or red light). I have an ESP8622 laying around and was wondering if anyone could help me to connect this to the pin entry panel.. i also have another raspberry pi 4 laying around if needed.
Here are photos of this panel https://ibb.co/qddMXqT
https://ibb.co/9VsW7tn
i thought about some seriell to usb adapter or something, but have absolutely no clue if that would do it and then how to send signals to it..
It's runned by Root and i have giving it acces to dialout and tty group but still giving me permission denied when i try /dev/ttyUSB0
π€¨
Running as root, for the Core install, is not recommended. I hope at the very least you've used a venv
Can you confirm that Installation Type is Home Assistant Core under
-> Info please. I know you said you used pip, but if you're running as root you shouldn't be getting those errors
Version core-2021.6.5
Installation Type Home Assistant Container

So... not pip install then
You run #449717345808547842
And you need to pass that device to the container
yes i'm sorry for the confustion
@acoustic river When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
i'm new to home assistant and feeling like such a noob right now haha
That's why I asked #hardware-archived message
Next time, rather than guessing, please check π
Totally missed that, will check the article thank you for your help
Hey guys, can anyone here reccomend cheap local smartplugs that I dont have to flash?
You will need to be more specific than that
I just need on and off for some fans I have around my house
But I dont want to have to open them and flash them with all the wires needed, id rather something simple and local
There are we different plug standards in the world
And at least 3 types of communication
Ohh. Im in the US, so I use US plugs, and I want wifi based ones
Dont you need to flash that?
I don't
Anyone know of a working Espressif ESP NOW to MQTT gateway project/sketch? I'm looking to utilize several ESP32's I already have to use as switches/sensors to one ESP32 receiving ESP NOW data and translate/deliver to an MQTT broker (i.e. HA).
https://www.espressif.com/en/products/software/esp-now/
Hey, does anybody know if I can use a Lutron Caseta Pico without any other lutron products in my home? I just want to use it as a light switch for my devices in HA
Hello, is there a wifi switch which you can connect with HA to control things over it?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Anyone ever get a xiaomi button working with has?
Their Zigbee ones?
are they pure zigbee
Well, you only mentioned a brand...
So, depends on which of their many ranges you're referring to
Just pick a suitable #zigbee-archived integration - and stick - see that channel's pinned messages
am using a tuya bridge and an integration with that :)
my pi too far to use a usb stick
I've manually configured tp-link in kasa without an account for HS100 and LB110 and added to Home Assistant probably over a year ago. Recently on Amazon Prime Day I bought a KP303 3 outlet power strip. Although the Kasa app indicates I can't configure the KP303 without a kasa / tp-link account I woner; Is there a way to assign the strip an ip address without a tp-link account so I can manually integrate it with my Home Assistant installation? I connected to the KP303 strip access point, but I can't see the switch in the browser using 192.168.0.1 I learned from https://github.com/p-doyle/Python-KasaSmartPowerStrip#initial-setup So far I've been able to keep my Home Assistant install free of all unwanted cloud services.
Hi everyone,
For a long time, I have been looking for a USB 433mhz transceiver adapter. Has anyone seen non-diy hardware that would allow software development?
(I don't want to build a hardware that will be running 24/7 for fire safety reasons)
Got my Odroid Blue the other day. Anything in the "must add" cataegory?
That's a really big question, depending on what you already have that integrates with HA and what you are looking to do. for lights and devices, you might want to look into #zigbee-archived or #zwave-archived , because having that functionality simplifies adding stuff.
IMO the only "must add" would be backups π
Tinkerer a while back you advised me about a program that could clone an sdcard. I bought a wd purple card and want to clone my SD card to this one
Could you provide me the name of the software you use to clone micro SD cards
rpi-clone - https://github.com/billw2/rpi-clone
and for windows?
the problem is that my new card is 64gb and the one with ha is 128gb. i cant clone it using balena etcher because it does not have auto fit feature easeUS does but i need to buy it and i hate buying programs that i use only once
I have been struggling to find a supported fan controller than can do a reverse setting. Anyone know of one? I have found plenty of wifi ones but none seem to be supported by HA
About fourteen hours ago I asked about manually assigning an ip address to a tp-link KP303. After a good night's sleep I reread these docs on GitHub https://github.com/p-doyle/Python-KasaSmartPowerStrip and just got it working. π ToDo: fire up wireshark and see if it's still reporting usage, which the docs seem to indicate, then install pihole on my ProxMox instance and block it. Anyway; Success adding this PrimeDay purchase to my HA.
hi
I have a rpi4 with hassio installed in a sd card
is it possible to boot from a sdd?
Does anyone know if these Xiomi Mija BLE Temp/Humidity sensors support readings in Fahrenheit? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001230582090.html?aff_fcid=83dad778cef149df9b044a4a8c6e5394-1625257157618-01844-_d6y6tZh&aff_fsk=_d6y6tZh&pvid=e0d772c4-d578-4f94-aa63-1df2f6fa8571&aff_platform=shareComponent-detail&sk=_d6y6tZh&aff_trace_key=83dad778cef149df9b044a4a8c6e5394-1625257157618-01844-_d6y6tZh&rmsg=do_not_replacement&scm=1007.23534.124000.0&terminal_id=8089ef7d83eb497bbfa9e5ad889ffe9c
Has anyone here controlled their Samsung TV over rs232? I have figured out how to send out rs232 commands from home assistant but Iβm confused on sending the commands to the actual TV
Hello all, i currently have a dsc pc1616 with 6 zones, i want to add a few wireless sensors to it, but im finding this to be a bit of a pain, So i got few options: a) keep using the 1616, b) get something with more features like the vista 20p c) get a ring retro fit kit... If i do go with c, how is the ring support of home assistant? ( i currently use a envisalink to brige the pc1616)
@upper stream https://github.com/softScheck/tplink-smartplug
Thanks
Do you know if that works with the lite smart plugs?
It only says HS100 and 110
I've only used that link for the HS100 and 110
Oh ok. Thanks, ill try it
I've been using a couple Amcrest IP cameras (ip2m-841 v1) for a couple years now just for video. On the backside, they have an alarm relay that i'd like to use as a switch via HA. The relay is described here: https://amcrest.com/forum/ip-cameras-f18/relay-and-or-alarm-electrical-spec-ip2m-841-t467.html I'm not seeing any mention of the HA integration having access to this relay. Am I out of luck?
I have been using gosund wp3 smart plugs but since they have to have internet to work they arenβt suitable for use without it and there is non way to flash them with tasmota, OTA or pulling them openβ¦ is there any alternative devices currently available in the US that can be flashed with tasmotaβ¦
I know they can with https://github.com/atc1441/ATC_MiThermometer
https://cloudfree.shop/product/cloudfree-smart-plug-runs-tasmota/ These are already running Tasmota
Just moved to a new place with a Kichler 337012 in-wall ceiling fan controller and Kichler 330171 fan. I have a Bond Bridge that I was using at the last place where the in-wall controller used RF, but this controller seems to be wired to the fan. Any way for me to control this fan using the Bond? Prefer not rewiring because this is a rental.
You'll just need to get a smart fan controller (your choice of either wifi, zigbee or z-wave) to replace the Kichler 337012 controller. Something like this for example if you go Z-Wave: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/
If you go wi-fi, make sure to check how well it'll integrate with HA - EDIT: I'm so sorry, I missed the rental part and how you don't want to re-wire
The Kichler 330171 fan doesn't seem to have an RF canopy module, so I don't think you'll be able to use your Bond Bridge
Yup, never hurts to ask
Anyone know of a Outdoor Smart Plug that has a configurable power on state?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Hi guys
I have a regular table fan with a wheel with 4 positions for different speeds
I want to control the speeds and I was considering setting the wheel to max speed and putting some sort of dimmer to control the speed
is that doable?
does somebody have a better idea?
probably not, a dedicated fan controller/switch would probably work better
I'm so lost with this I'd appreciate some guidance
like, this device won't burn your house if you do this with your regular table fan π
I'm not much into DIY
any device can burn down your house if you're not into DIY
π
I remember when I used to grow indoors, I attached an analog dimmer to my extractors and there was no danger in doing that
I assume something like that could be done with a fan without danger
it could be but depends on whether the fan will like it or not
exhaust fans were probably simple so a dimmer was just varying the power available to them
then there's the question of the type of dimmer
I see
I understand what you're saying
it did work because those had probably little electronical components inside and they were just on/off, but the fan depends on what it has inside
thanks
exactly
just in case, is there any known outlet that paires with HA and has dimming cappabilites?
a sonoff would do that, right?
i've seen a few zigbee ones
I'm looking at getting an electrician out to fix some wiring (we have some lights outside that stopped working and a 3 way switch which works 50% of the time). Figured it would be a good chance to get some of shelly relays installed... can someone help me work out what I need to buy though. I don't want to go buy a bunch only to find out I bought the wrong things.
Like how do I know if I need Shelly 1 or 1L (without getting the electrician to check beforehand)
If my current lights have a dimmer can I still use the shelly 1 or do I need to use the shelly dimmer (assuming I don't want any smart dimmer features). If I do end up going for shelly dimmers will my existing dimmer still work?
If I have 3 switches somewhere, do I use a shelly 2.5 double relay and a Shelly 1?
I plan on buying a few extras just in case some don't work or something needs to be done differently but I still need to know approximately what I need
or will I need to get an electrician out twice (once to check what I need and a second time to install it all)
Hey! Very new to the community. Refugee after my original SmartThings Hub was cast out into the cold by Samsung. I've gotten Home Assistant running on a RPI 4, With a QuickStick Combo, HUSBZB-1 Z Wave/Zigbee RF adapter. I didn't "exclude" any devices before my ST v1 Hub died. That may have been a mistake.
Two problems, and a question:
I can't seem to get my old GE 45613 Z-Wave dimmer switches to go into pairing mode. I've read that you're supposed to click them up 3x and down 3x or up 10x. I've tried that, but to no avail. I pulled the air gap tab and left it disconnected for a few minutes. The switches worked great with the ST Hub. Here's the Amazon link to the devices:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V58K2/
I have several of the Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0118RQWYQ/
And I can't get them into pairing mode, either? I've pulled the batteries and pushed the reset buttons inside the cases, but they seem to be unresponsive. Are they compatible with the hardware I have, or do I need to get new sensors?
Are these the "recommended" motion sensors for indoor use?
https://www.amazon.com/Centralite-Motion-Sensor-SmartThings-platforms/dp/B0713STYJQ/
Thanks in advance for any help! I'm excited to get everything back up and running.
#zwave-archived can help with specific Z-Wave questions, and #zigbee-archived with specific Zigbee questions. In both cases you'll need to factory reset your devices to be able to pair them though.
Thank you! Iβll check them out.
Ive installed a fan hat and enabled i2c (it seems to be enabled), how do I tell HA that there is a fan connected to the i2c ports?
That'd be a topic for #integrations-archived - or quite possibly your install method channel
Okay thank you
Hello, I am seeking advice. I am thinking of buying new doorbell camera. I have been reading on the forums and most people advice for Amcrest doorbell but sadly there are not available in Europa. Would Eufy doorbell 2k battery be a good alternative ? And should I be worried since the company is Chinese, about security ? Thanks for your time. Maybe I should add that my "limits" is to find a doorbell cam without subscription and no cloud service, I am planning to have Home assistant running on a raspberry pi handle the storage. Sadly the Eufy battery model need the Homebase to function but I cant find any better alternative in that price range.
sorry English is not my first language and I make a lot of errors.
@drifting grove Dimmers for lights, if they don't have a physical knob or slider, probably don't adjust voltage. They dim by changing the waveform of the AC current, and that is very bad for AC motors. Speed controllers for AC motors change the voltage going to the motor.
Hey @slim lagoon , saw that you're using tp-link omada and I'm thinking of buying a router and access point but have some questions if you wouldn't mind. So, my idea is having 3 vlans (one for everyday devices; other for "trusted" IoT devices; and another for those chinese IoT devices that I don't trust). I've read online that the tl-r605 doesn't support mDNS repeating and I use google home devices, how did you solve that problem?
Also, can I get only a router and AP or do I need a switch also? (I only need wireless VLAN's, not wired, as the only wired devices I have are my computer and my server which can be connected directly to the default vlan on the router).
Thanks a lot for that. And is there any known device in HA capable of adjusting the voltage?
a voltage dimmer or whatever?
The only ones I've seen are intended for built-in ceiling fans with wall switches. Innovelli makes those. I don't know of any others.
Hi, i am looking to use a pi zero W as a bluetooth bridge
does anyone know how to go about doing that?
i have played around with that for a past hour. I realised that is just used for presence+
presence detection. I am just looking to increase the bluetooth range in the house for the sensors
can that script be also used for that?
As the Harmony (Logitech) remote series have been discontinued, anyone know of a similar brand/remote to replace it?
Hi, i'm having a Rpi3 B running hot, so now have a fan pointed at it. Since i want to extend my configuration/setup i was thinking about moving to Rpi4 or a NUC. Does anyone have any good suggestions for NUC's (budget about 300euro's for total package) ?
Any minimum requirements that I should look for?
64 bit, two or more cores (4+ is good), 4 GB+ of RAM
Pragmatically a CPUMark of over 2K is good
SSD is better than HDD
Would this Suffice? (Intel NUC Kit NUC5i3RYH) with 8GB RAM (without disk/os) for about 120euro
Also have this one around 180euros: Intel NUC NUC6i3SYK 8GB 250GB WD blue nvme SSD. Seems faster according to passmark. And the 8GB is 1 strip.. so can add more if needed
This isn't available yet, but the first version (no longer available) was very well received: https://www.yio-remote.com/
Home assistant integration coming along nicely: https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/566721352
just turn an old smart phone into a remote lol
Needs physical buttons for fumbling in the dark.
yea right.. remotes with 40 billion buttons are harder to navigate in the dark.. thumb is like the size of 3 buttons
WoW, there is hope after all! Thanks! Something to keep an eye on for sure!
Last I heard the Kickstarter will be at the end of this month. <#553671366927450123 message> Very low risk. They fully delivered on the last one.
Thanks, pending on the price it may be the way to go π The link did not work for me though
Is it possible to connect the Raspberry Pi Pico to my hassio instance so I can execute stuff on there? Like switching stuff etc
Or read sensor data from it
Ive found out that it should be possible at https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/remote_rpi_gpio/
Ah the pico doesnt have wifi so nvm
anybody got a non-cloud-based voice system working with HA?
#voice-assistants-archived would be a good place to ask
oh I didn't see that, thanks
I'm looking for suggestions for simple/cheap battery operated buttons(switches). Ive got both ZigBee and Z-Wave capabilities. Mostly just want to trigger some automations with a physical button
Can anyone recommend some whole house audio solutions? Especially if you have used it with this? https://github.com/KoljaWindeler/ytube_music_player
Hey, can anyone recommend power consumption monitors?
- Which country you're in - Brazil
- What your budget is - Well that's kinda weird because we pay around 5x per dollar π
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave) - No preferences here
Running on an RPI 3b+, getting disconnects pretty frequently. Seeing dhcp requests from the device every hour on my pfsense device. Don't have a monitor attached to the rpi, is there some sort of mechanism that would recover the rpi instance after 60 minutes?
Your install method channel can help with that
What's a good Zigbee bridge that uses Ethernet instead of WiFi? Preferably flashable with Tasmota but whatever
#zigbee-archived can help there, but for that you want https://www.tubeszb.com/shop/coordinators/2 when they're back in stock, or one of the ones on https://github.com/Koenkk/zigbee-herdsman/issues/319#issuecomment-789757269
Don't know if any can be Tasmota flashed, but there's better Zigbee stacks out there π
What hardware do you guys use for BLE projects within HA?
Hi! I want to intergrate my Aritech ATS alarm system into HA. There are a serval dry-contacts on it. I want to use one for to put the system on/off and the other one (NC) for when there is a alarm. My question is ; which hardware should I use to read/write those contacts? Mostly I use shelly
Hi guys,
Lets say i want to control a smartbulb with a physical button that 'not smart' (connected to the powersource). Is there a way to control the bulb via that switch without turning off the power (what would result to re-pairing the bulb)?
Well, that switch can't cut power to the bulb
After that, just add a smart switch module to the switch, so you know what it's doing
hmm, ive read something about that..
Do you have any idea which modules are (best) compatible with HA?
Hang on while I try to guess
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
fibaro is what im reading now, for my country (NL)
quite expensive tho, i was hoping the xiaomi wallswitch would offer the same options as discribes in my initial question
Sure, because Z-Wave is expensive
hmmmm
so what we're wondering is if the aqara physical wallswitch functions just like this(?)
but i gues we dont have anekdotal evidence of this
If it supports decoupling then yes, but #zigbee-archived would know
hmmmm
thanks for now dude, you've been a great help!
making a new houseplan, thats why π
Personally I'd go with smart switches and dimmers over putting smart bulbs on those, but hey π
I have been using the lutron auroa for that and its working great
Would this https://www.x-kom.pl/p/641840-nettop-mini-pc-zotac-zbox-ci329-n4100-4gb-240.html be good enough to run the OS? Initially I wanted to buy a NUC but they are sold out everywhere, the only ones I can find are used ones with very old CPUs (released ~2014).
#330990055533576204 will know the odds of it being supported, but in general it should be fine
do u guys recommend a thermostat that works nicely with HA?
im located in Ontario Canada, btw
depends on what you want out of the thermostat and how much control you want to have. I'm happy with my Ecobees
What is currently everyones recommended smart lock for homes? Yale x Nest seems pretty solid as yale is reputable and nest is google. But I can't see documentation around locking or unlocking (or even seeing state for that matter) via home assistant
I use kwikset 916 zwave and like them mainly for battery life
I always felt like the older ZW Kwikset locks ate batteries, but the newer ZW+ ones seem to be better
Iβve had both. The older ones would last about a year. I have noticed my newer ones have been @ 100% for a while
Gotcha, I'll have a look, thanks!
Does anyone use Sony Bravia TV, I'm struggling to integrate it
When trying to integrate, it asks for the Host, which I assumed it is the IP address, it then asks for a PIN, I have no idea what it is or how to get it, I try to use the PSK but still doesn't work
The TV will usually display the PIN
It didn't, for some reason
Best bang for buck, wifi , locally controlled, 2+ socket, outdoor plug available in US? That doesn't require serial flash.
I'd like to drop a humidity sensor into my cigar humidor and connect it to an ESP32 or ESP8266 board outside of the humidor to track the humidity inside. I don't want to drill or modify the box so I was thinking of attaching the parts with a flex ribbon like a raspberry pi camera ribbon but I can't find terminals for them. Any suggestions? Thanks. (Yeah, I'm new to this)
Something like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32823818761.html
More sizes available: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002094110965.htm
The key words to search are "Flat Cable FFC/FPC Connector Adapter". For next time this is a #diy-archived question.
Hello there,
I'm looking for a ZigBee-controlled smart plug, able to handle up to 1kW continously. I'd like to buy it on Amazon.de (Germany), preferably. The setup shouldn't require any app, software that isn't HA (or any module/addon from it).
do you have a working ZHA integration?
My ZigBee-USB-Stick is on it's way, so currently no, I don't.
WiFi isn't an option for me, tho.
which stick?
The ConBee II (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07PZ7ZHG5)
do you know that one does requires software that isn't HA?
What exactly do you mean?
anyway I recommend https://zigbee.blakadder.com/BlitzWolf_BW-SHP13.html as a good plug that isn't bulky like some others
Okay, so a few questions:
First off, you havent answered my question regarding software that isn't HA (or an extension of it).
Secondly, considering your nickname and the url you posted, isn't that self-promotion?
Lastly, ignoring all this, can we go back to my intial question regarding a smart plug/socket?
- disregard that, i was wrong
- yes it is
- that is the answer to your initial question
Is this channel okay for suggestions on a product I am trying to find?
we'll know once you ask the actual question
Okay, so my townhouse is pretty old, my bathroom has a single toggle switch and a outlet and the plate looks like this but rotate 180 degrees
currently the light switch controls the light and exhaust fan, I want to replace the switch with a smart switch but I was wondering if there are any switches that are like two switches in one, that maybe have to sets of posts for two different sets of wires.
I am not sure I am explaining this the best.
your townhouse in uzbekistan?
no?
well different countries have different electrical systems
it was just built in either the late 50s or early 60s
and you didn't state yours
Sorry its in the US
always is π
I didn't realize that was important, I am pretty new to this, I apologize
there are two in one fan and light switches but not that form factor in the image
Well I would also like to look around and see if there are smart outlets I can purchase to replace the current ones.
I know what I am asking is very specific
there's this https://templates.blakadder.com/treatlife_DS03.html
smart outlets are more common
but I would like have the one side with the switch that can control fan and lights (hopefully with motion detection, but if not I can set up motion detection separately) and then smart outlets that can be controlled by Home assistant as well
as far as the outlets?
wall outlets or just plugs?
Well ideally outlets, but I could just keep the outlets as is and just use plugs, I am guessing that will be the easier right right?
Oh looks like Kasa makes some
"easier"... you should decide on the standard of communication first
yeah that's something else I am trying to figure out, I am going back and forth with WiFi and Smart things, was looking at the new Aeotech hub
With any configuration, I feel like the plate is going to the be pain
it would be a diy endeavour
there are in wall modules that can smartify existing switches
like something that would be installed in line?
I guess like a passthrough? not sure if that's the right word
yes, in line is the word. if your fan is just an on off it would be easily done
I believe the fan is, I guess I just don't know how that would work because the lights and the fan are both two different sets of wires, I like that switch you sent me, I am trying to see if it has two sets of posts though
Oh that looks like its needs a neutral wire though which I am sure I don't have, sorry if this is going out of scope I can keep googling
hmm seems like I might be out of luck here then
there are still no neutral ones but that's another can of worms
ugh
Motion sesnor can be done externally on another wifi device, but I think something like this should work
Inovelli has a zwave fan light switch but it requires neutral. If you are 100% you donβt have a neutral wire
https://inovelli.com/red-series-fan-light-switch-z-wave/
The plate is not your problem as it can be switch. The neutral wire is going to be your struggle
Yeah, I haven't looked, but my family has owned this town house since the early 60s and its never been renovated when it comes to anything electrical
Worth a look. Not sure when neutral wires became a thing
I have been doing some research and these seem to be the most popular for my situation
Yea, innovelli is known for having hardware that doesnβt need a neutral. Not sure why their fan/switch combo does.
tbh at this point, I don't mind if the fan and light are wired together
its not the end of the world
Look at inovelli. I have seen mixed reviews on Lutron
Inovelli has great tech support also. Worth a call or email.
Thank you
Don't mind it being a little dirty, I'm not sure the last time this was accessed lol, but seems I might have lucked out on the neutral?
Oh I can't attack files one sec
kind of hard to see, but aren't the 3 capped white wires neutral?
More than likely yesβ¦..butβ¦..if you donβt know what you are doing, you can seriously hurt yourself. So, consult an electrician if you arenβt sure.
Yeah I can contact my complex, I just killed the power to that bathroom to see if there is anything that at least resembles a neutral wire
so my hopes are a little higher now
Imho, if you havenβt built a protocol, zwave is the best. It is a mesh system though and mains devices act like repeaters. The more devices the better. The more mains devices, even better. Zwave is going to be more expensive also. #zwave-archived can help further though.
so doesn't the new Aeotech hub support ST, Zwave and Zigbee
π€·πΌββοΈ. But, hubs that do multiple protocol prob arenβt going to be an good as a usb stick that concentrates solely on zwave. You are dealing with wireless and waves and all that technical stuff. Your zwave stick placement might be best in the bedroom while your wifi placement is better in the living room. Make sense?
Pick a protocol and build around it
Of course, a couple one offs here and there arenβt going to hurt anything
Yeah, my town house is about 1200 sq feet so I don't think that will be much of an issue, but I get it, I know that sometimes the different zwave stuff won't talk to eachother but I need to do more research on that
its two story too which should make the reception even a little better, I like the wifi stuff, but I feel like that can get messy, it already is with just the stuff we have now
Zwave is zwave is zwave unless you are talking 500 vs 700. I am not sure if 700 is backwards compatible but a quick google search should answer that
Yeah, I need to figure out which one I want, unfortunately I already have bulbs that are wifi I could keep them on wifi and go one of the other platforms going forward
I also need to see if I will have any issues passinga zwave usb dongle through hyperv to the vm running HA
Both OpenZWave and zwavejs can work on a stand-alone raspi which means you can place it anywhere in the house. I have openzwave docker working just fine on a raspi 3b+
Yeah definitely an option, I have a pi 3 b+ not being used, and a pi 4 running Tuya Convert OS atm but if I go zwave I could re-purpose that pi 4 as HA, I was just hoping to keep everyhing on my server, but that is a small detail I can iron out
Real life is calling. Happy automating βπ»
Thanks for the help
Hi guys, does anyone know an intercom doorbell without camera that can be integrated into HA?
Thank you.
Whats the best option for ceiling fan automation? I dont have a fan yet so my options are completely open
@dawn condor you could use a regular dumb fan and use a shelly or something similar
that would be the cheapest and probably most flexible route
could require some hackery if you want to maintain multiple speed abilities
what would be a good way to automate mini split AC units?
they come with remotes, could try to sniff it and clone the codes
Sup y'all. I'm pretty techy (youtube.com/linustechtips is me) but living in a house built in 1985, wiring it up for automation seemed like an overwhelming task and I haven't bothered doing anything but my garage doors.
However, I recently bought a new place and we are doing some renovations that will give me an opportunity to wire it up for some fun stuff. Utterly overwhelmed right now though since this isn't my area of expertise and wondering where I'd go to get some solid consulting on an 'open' approach to HVAC/in-floor heating control, sprinkler control and maybe some lighting stuff. Not sure about shade or access control at this point but nothing is off the table.
Well, here ain't a bad place to start
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
And those are things that'll help people help you
Just don't ask for help in off topic, it the raccoon gif channel
i'm a fan of z-wave, and for everything that doesn't have z-wave, wifi. Never messed with in floor heating, but searching up z-wave floor heater thermostats provides some promising results
Zigbee is cheaper than Z-Wave, and likely to perform better even if it's slightly more work
possibly, although you can get wifi interference and zigbee devices tend to be much less standardized. very much a ymmv situation
I have both, Zigbee has given me less trouble overall, but I did do my research
One thing there: Don't try to make in floor heating smart. Set it to a temperature you like and Don't Ever Touch The Thermostat Again For The Rest Of Your Life. That's honestly the best and most efficient way to run them.
Yeah I agree with that, what HA is great for in this case is away modes and graphing
I am trying to setup a d1 mini and a vegteonix soil probe in esphomeβ¦ connected to A0 with the platform adcβ¦ Iβm getting a platform not found errorβ¦ the sensor only has three wiresβ¦ vcc,ground and VOut(0-3v)
Does anyone know of any power cubes that is just a cube with a micro usb with no cable?
if that makes any sense
no like micro usb female, just male, I would like to create some esp DHT temp sensors to put around the house, but I don't want them to have cables, I would like if I can just have a micro usb male connector directly on the cube
It's less that I want to make the in-floor smart and more that I want it to be smart enough to not interfere with the cooling function of the AC.
I also want to be able to re-use the 10 thermostats all over the house that control the different zones of in-floor heating so they can relay data back to the AC system as well. Right now AC is on a single zone and if like to make it much more granular using smart dampers.
In a perfect world the in-floor would act as a kind of stage 1 heating and id replace the existing AC with a heat pump that could do cooling and stage 2 heating. Again, it doesn't need to be 'smart' to serve this role, but it does need to be smart so I can use the same sensor data for it and the smart dampers.
Another thing I'm in a little over my head on is the actual hub I need. It seems Samsung has offloaded their SmartThings business or something and a lot of the feedback on recent updates is extremely negative, but that seems to be focused on Samsung own app. If I intend to use HomeAssistant do I care about their biz unit changing hands and their crappy app regression?
ESP32 and ESP8266 not connecting (green bar not showing). I flashed it, it connects to the internet, and I can ping it, but it doesn't connect to ESPHome. Ideas on why that might be?
you'll get a better audience in #330990055533576204
@gloomy spoke thanks!
Would the pi zero run home assistant with two cameras and two entry sensors fine ?
I'm only on day 2 of setting up Home Assistant, so apologies for the newbish question:
I'm trying to find something like a WiFi physical switch that is not designed to go in a wall box. Anyone have recommendations? Or just a lead on the language to use for searching?
(oh look at that bot)
In the US, looking for fairly cheap per switch, haven't gotten into any protocol but wifi so far
zigbee and zwave both have dongles available that should work in Canada. this would allow you to control them directly and locally within HA without having to go "outside". your best bet might be some sort of cheap zigbee enabled thermostat that you can bring in to HA and control from there. If you add a similar thermostat to your current A/C system (if i recall your video correctly) you should be able to control everything via automation to ensure one system is disabled while the other is enabled
zigbee should enable the "cheap enough" and reliable angles
@foggy pecan this will be a new system, not the one from the video. I'm moving.
I just looked and it appears all of the thermostats are current super basic mercury 2-wire jobbies.
I've had it suggested to me to use those two wires to run 5V power to zwave sensors and move all the controls to the mech. room but I'd like to still have on-wall controls for each room (mainly for AC - I understand in-floor heat is pretty much set&forget). Any 5V touch screen things I could just put next to a sensor like this and program for per-room HVAC controls?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z8ZQY?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_marketplace
Better to use the 5V power for a "wireless" zwave thermostat?
that i'm not super familiar with. 5V is going to be pretty tight for a lot of things. i'm more familiar with central air which is a bit simpler unfortunately
I wonder what "professional" home automation systems use in US and Canada. In Europe it is mostly KNX, but it seems to be a lot less common overseas
I mean, I could just as easily run 12V power and step down to 5V in a wall box for 5V accessories. Just looking for options now that I know they are only 2-wires each :p
Basically I'm looking for a smart thermostat that doesn't actually need to be wired to the heating or cooling system. All I can do is power it with the existing wiring π’
You could probably use a thermostat like this: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TH1400ZB.html and use zigbee2mqtt to connect it into homeassistant.
Apparently it can be powered through 24V AC
I have never tried this model though.
Hmm right on the product page it says "compatible with 3-wire systems*" - that doesn't give me much hope for 2-wire. Am I missing something?
Well, in that case the thermostat would only be supplied with 24V and used just as a thermometer and to enter the target temperature. You would need something else to control the actual heater/AC
But I can't be sure it will actually work. Never tried this specific one. And my installation is made with KNX instead of zigbee.
Yeah that's exactly what I'm hoping to do. The issue is just finding a thermostat that's capable of running in this fashion. I haven't seen anyone else really trying to do something like this so far sigh
Well this one might do it. But using a zigbee2mqtt stick in a server instead of an official hub.
I just came across an access point that has a zigbee radio. Is that considered important? I would have assumed it just used regular 2.4GHz
It does use 2.4GHz but it is a different protocol from wifi
If you want to use zigbee you need a hub to bridge it with the network
yeah it's not a hub. It's an access point: https://support.ruckuswireless.com/products/180-ruckus-r850#sort=relevancy&f:@commonproducts=[R850]
Just not sure what role an access point would play... Just another device in the mesh network?
There are proprietary hubs and open source solutions like zigbee2mqtt
I'd say it plays the same role as a hub. But how it interfaces zigbee with the rest of the network is a mystery to me
I'd be very surprised if it plays a hub role. If anyone else knows what role they play I'd be very interested to know. Aruba also has products like this and Samsung apparently built something like this back in 2015.
Thereβs a ruckus IoT βenvironmentβ with their own app. Itβs a hub :/
I can generally recommend zigbee2mqtt.
With the inherent meshing of zigbee protocol, you can push your instance into your machine room and have the network span your house without too many issues
It feels like Zigbee vs Zwave has a bit of an "Apple vs Android" or "Xbox vs Playstation" vibe to it with evangelists in both camps. As an outsider it feels impossible to figure out which one I should commit to...
Both!
π©
Apparently it is also somewhat of a EU vs US thing.
More seriously, Zigbee is cheaper and faster, and not everything plays together. Z-Wave is more expensive, slower, but it all just works together without issues.
If you're willing to do a bit of research in your choices, Zigbee is a great option
One of the nice things with HA, DIY smart home is the ability to mix and match
Have you considered just dimmer elements for your wall and separate (e.g. part of motion/presence detection) thermometers?
Aeotec offered to send me a SmartThings hub. My understanding is that it supports both, but its integration with Home Assistant is jankier than just buying a Zwave stick.
The great thing about HA's native support, and the rest of the open source community, is that they move fast. New devices are easily supported.
Commercial hubs... not so much
I picked zigbee primarily because itβs supposed to be more open
But really barely is. I agree with your assessment here though
If I buy an unsupported Zigbee device, I can add support myself to Zigbee2MQTT
Good luck on doing that with SmartThings
Oh yea, I have the hue official bridge here, and Alexa smart home at my parents
The zigbee2mqtt into HA is way better wrt. Device support
okay so SmartThings hub bad then?
Generally speaking, any commercial hub is likely a poor choice
Isn't it kinda what you guys are saying with support for both though? I have no problem using both at the same time if I get the right hardware to do what I need it to do... But it sounds like I should just have a Zwave stick and a Zigbee2MQTT hub then?
Your name is literally Tinkerer though!!!
Just ask the owners of Wink hubs how well commercial worked out for them
I gotta keep that in mind!
I'm a geek, just like you claim to be π
I like tinkering.... with my computers... not with my cooling/heating stuff. My wife would kill me if that stuff didn't 'just work'
Pretty much. With HA to unify your environments, you are free to run both zwave and zigbee (or something commercial) and combine all the capabilities at the server
They're just computers, in really small form
can only run my scuffed setups because I live alone
Your reasoning though is why I haven't touched heating yet - if I break that I'll be sleeping in the garden
Can I get permissiong to upload pictures? I have sketched out what I'm trying to do in MSpaint
Please use imgur or other image sharing web sites, and share the link here.
Image posting is blocked in most channels to discourage people from sharing text as images.
Too many pictures mess with the conversation flow, which is why it's limited
fair 'nuff
And idiots posting code in images... which still happens, but hey, you can't fix people
kay here we go. Did I miss anything crucial?
okay I already see something crucial I missed. I need temperature monitoring for the boiler coolant - probably at both inlet and outlet.
Edit: and humidity monitoring... but anything ELSE??
For just heating/cooling, or more generally?
You'll likely need router devices to extend that mesh, and Z-Wave has a four hop limit you need to keep in mind
I am not committed to either ecosystem (willing to use both) at this point. Also, physically it's not that far. The mechanical room is pretty central in this house, and the closest nodes are literally like 10ft away, so the mesh should build out pretty naturally. Also, heating and cooling isn't all I'm planning to do - it's just the most complicated from a wiring standpoint. I'm also hoping to add something like this switch to handle smart lighting control and presence detection via motion sensing:
Are smart dampers even a thing?
Physical distance and distance for RF are only loosely coupled
I'm new to home automation, not technology π
Better than most then π
Thereβs devices that do route and some that donβt.
If you run primarily battery powered or cheap devices they might not act as router
ah, motorized dampers. Still need an actuator to control them.
I'm always surprised by how many people just assume that RF punches through everything...
Despite having experienced otherwise
Trust me. I was devastated earlier today when I found out I couldn't hard wire the thermostats without tearing out half the dryawall in the house....... I hate RF
But I'm trying to make the best of a bad situation
So how does that currently work? Thermostat is essentially a thermal resistor directly coupled to heating/ac?
omg I'm so glad you asked. Literal 1950s technology with actual mercury
Leaving the in-floor heating 'dumb' with the current thermostats IS an option. I could put multi-sensors like this in all the rooms where I want per-zone AC control and just... I dunno put batteries in them or something? It seems inelegant though
I need to look at that in my laptop
Wow, that is really neat. Bimetal strip and a mercury switch. A nightmare to replace, but still
Haha from a mechanical engineering standpoint, it's wonderful.
emphasis on the word MECHANICAL
One of my Shelly 1L just failed. Won' power on anymore.
oh wow, that's some simple electronics. So it's not even a value that's read, but a contact that closes. That's cool
Yeah, not a fan of battery based solutions personally. At least for Zigbee battery means no routing capability.
have someone solder on the power supply with your 2 wires there instead of running on battery π
but the note about routing applies :/
And they always run out at the most inconvenient times
Plz see the mspaint I drew up before. Currently the wires are just there to complete the control circuit (via the mercury switch). They do not actually carry power presently as far as I know.
If I power them (to use some kind of smart sensor/thermostat) I cannot continue to use the mercury switches
yea, I should keep the concepts in mind. I was kinda thinking replace the thermostats with battery powered solutions all together. The one you linked would be in addition
In my ideal world there would be no battery powered devices whatsoever. I hate replacing batteries, and if I already have wires in the walls I should use them to power stuff so I don't have to change batteries (ideally).
In other news, I found what appears to be a fully-integrated smart damper with the dumbest name in the world. Imaging naming your company 75F when you make cooling products... Basically impossible to search for anything without bringing up a bunch of results for 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Genius.
looks neat though. But at least the first one I clicked won't work in your setup
No, it seems to be proprietary/commercial only.
that for one. But maybe I'm also confusing myself. The SmartStat got some analog inputs, but I'm unsure if got included sensors as well
Looks like Honeywell's solution polls the cloud. That's something I'm trying to learn more about - truly local-running home automation vs stuff that could have delays/changes in service due to requiring a cloud relay.
An electric damper and a zigbee actuator would probably be a way to make it work cloudless.
I am concerned about back-pressure damaging the AC. I imagine that'd be a weird edge case where the dampers are all closed and the AC is running for some reason, but stuff can go wrong and I'm not experienced when it comes to programming these things for all contingencies and it's a real concern.
Maybe something like that could help? https://www.hoyme.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=63
I'm way out of my expertise area when it comes to HVAC though.
Yeah that actually looks like a really simple solution
we are going to buy a HVAC and I am still thinking which company to take.. which will be the best to integrate later to HA (and best would be to close connection towards their cloud).. any ideas? π I can have Gree / Daikin / LG / Samsung
Gree has https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/gree/ (but dont know I can kill internet connection to their cloud)
Daikin - https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/daikin/ - but they removed local API in newer products.. so most probably not this..
LG - looks like component is somehow in development only - https://community.home-assistant.io/t/in-development-lg-smartthinq-component/40157/516
Samsung - was not checking that much yet
Second this. I'm probably about to make a very similar purchase and hoping for something competently-integrated with HA.
It's only the Daikin BRP069C4x controllers that are no longer supported. There are many that still work (locally). Also there is great progress being made on getting the BRP069C4x to work.
yea.. but it's hard to ask seller which controller is there π
its not hard asking π its hard getting a real answer from them
Can anyone recommend a HA compatible humidity sensor ? I've got one of these already but I'm debating replacing it for something more compatible
The sensorpush seems to do what I need but I dont know how I could integrate it with HA. It seems to use BLE but Im not sure how I could use that
Which protocol?
It seems to be BLE
Is there any tried and tested humidity sensors that work with HA ?
Im fine not reinventing the wheel
If you have Zigbee, then the Xiaomi temperature/humidity sensors work well, as do the Konke ones
What's everyone using for led strips with z wave control?
#zwave-archived would be the best place to ask that IMO
There are a whole bunch of 433Mhz ones that work with RTL433 (usb tv card stick) I then connect rtl433 via MQTT to home assistant
Lol They sent me here. I'm stuck in a time loop
@digital oracle When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
My bad. Don't use discord often
Your question there was also pretty generic, rather than the one you asked here where you asked about with Z-Wave
Hence why they sent you back here π
Haha all good!
I had a thought
Have Tesla coils been hooked up to homeassistant for any purpose?
can someone recommend a cheap zigbee dongle, just looking to add my smartthings door sensors.. and get rid of the smartthings hub
Checkout the recommended dongles on this page: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/information/supported_adapters.html
Well, the CC2652 based ones. Not the CC253x based ones
Though the latter are cheaper (but not as good)
But you need a programmer to flash them, which makes them less cheap
Cheap, slow, limited
Hello, been using Home assistant for a few years and have a retro fitted house with a zigbee setup, but am at the start of a new build and would like to do a wired system, any one know of any good blogs or can recommend a wired system? Is KNX the way to go?
by wired you mean ethernet wired right? I am not sure how you plan to replace your zigbee devices with wired ones
it a new build so they would be pulled with first fix
had been looking at loxone, but they stopped selling to private customers, and to be fair I am not sold on there proprietary system.
not sure I follow you - and also not sure why you want to go away from Zigbee it is a good mesh and would be taken over by Thread in near future. Most of the latest chips can be flashed with thread as well. But unfortunately some of devices may not be able to (as some use older chips)
I am building a new house and would prefer not to go wireless as wireless networks can go down. Eg in the last 3 years i have had to restart the deconz hub 4 times.
so the question is more is KNX the best route for a wired home assistant house, or is there other options.
okay - no idea about KNX. but there are limitations to the wired sensors as well. but it's your call - zigbee is pretty stable BTW
it is I been working with mesh networks for over 10 years, but wired is always going to be more reliable.
So far KNX is the best widely known standard
agree, but in near future the wired sensors are going to be limited and expensive. so do consider which sensor needs to be wired and which can be wireless \
Thanks, just wanted to check if i missing something. The loxone guys were pushing there stuff but dont want to be locked into one vendor.
If they ever folded/went under don't want to be left with a rewire
Loxone reminds me too much of zwave
but with zwave you have multiple vendors?
I am at the beginning and originally had thought about doing something similar to Jonathan Oxer "superhouse.tv" but dont have as much time now to hack together custom switches and sensors. my thoughts were that at least using something like KNX would mean the house could be sold if needed or that someone else could repair things if I wasn't about.
you can always sell the house without knx π but it'd make it easier though
also imagine your hass instance going down and not being able to fix it for days due to circumstances, i'd want some basic things to keep continue working
π
but if you wire the lights back to a central location it not a easy thing to sawp to a normal setup
star-wiring shouldn't be an issue to swap to a normal setup
just use.. let me look up the right word in english
treleruptors ? (according to google it's the same in english)
I run HASS in a vm with another server setting in standby
teleruptors*
well that's nice, but if you use for example zigbee devices and your stick dies
or you have to move things over..
which is one reason i dont want to do a new build with one
or you decide to move to another server that has a smaller footprint
π
well I'd still use zigbee, but for more convenience, not the basic things
deconz is amazing but if it goes down all automation stops
I'd do star-wiring to knx or teleruptors
and combine them with hass
with added zigbee devices for more convenience/luxury
yeah i not saying there wont be any zigbee devices, dont want to rely on them, and you can see the delay in multi hop signals
it shouldn't be an issue without some wired devices, but if you have reselling in your mind, it will be, not everyone is an enthousiast of home automation by themself π
so we share the same idea
but I'm not sure if I'd want to go teleruptor/plc/knx route
I dont have resell in mind but i am sadly not immortal
that's also a fair point π
anyone running an odroid N2/N2+ and know a command to get the max CPU speed? I don't know why some of these arm devices are so weird with this. I tried the cpuspeed platform sensor but it doesn't seem to do anything.
What OS?
you could try poking around in cat /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/
somewhere it has the maxfrequency
that is when on ubuntu
Not a normal hardware question, but I'm in need of a new camera for my kid's room. Anyone have a suggestion for a decent inexpensive replacement?
if you want really cheap there's esp32-cam π
Has to look decent too (Wife Approval Factor)
HA OS on an N2+... it's a blue
I tried /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/, but for some reason that folder is empty. Couldn't find anything in nearby directories either.
I'd recommend KNX depending on your location. At least in German speaking Europe every other electrician knows it and every reasonable manufacturer has some devices.
Not saying it's perfect (the protocol is onerous...) but I think it's here to stay.
And it works quite well with HA (but I'm biased there π)
It relies on whole different wiring Schema tough so it's hop or drop...
@broken flower I can confirm that most electricians in BE also know knx π
unless it's one that's about to go on retirement π
I think they know more about knx than plc nowadays
but plc is more user-friendly as far as I can remember from 18 years ago π
I am, Northern Ireland based. Had seen a few local builds which where loxone and was really considering them, the one vendor thing held me back and then when they stopping selling to private individuals that was the end. Am familiar with PLC's but havent used KNX.
Will dig deeper into the KNX standard, not sure if the device limit is going to be an issue for the software, by the time you add all the switches and PIR nodes. eg have 46 nodes on my current zigbee network, and that only 4 rooms. the new build has 11 rooms.
loxone seems great but you're stuck with the vendor and difficult to get parts immediately, because you need to get through resellers
or partners
plc & knx can be expanded, but takes up a lot of space
the one vendor is what was holding me back and last year when they changed there policy, requiring you to go through a reseller was the end.
Space is not an issue
2m x 3m server room
it will be the hub room and is located the center of the house for shorter wiring runs
nice
tbh i think knx + home assistant and zigbee for extra luxury/convenience is the perfect combo
thats the plan
only the manual configuring of knx into hass seems a lot of work
but would like the automations to be done all in one place so would like to try keep them in HASS
I'd actually do the basic stuff in knx
and more advanced in hass
you never know why hass or your hardware would leave you hanging
but what is basic and what is advanced? would like most of the lights to have dimming other than the utility type rooms.
toggling and dimming would fall under basic for me
but you could consider dimming as an "advanced" feature
as it's not really necessary to keep the installation working
but would dimming not be advanced because it would be used for scenes, I also currently have my lights tone and brightness time dependant. Would like to do similar in the new house.
may have to get a few devices and start playing with them.
the house is just a hole in the ground so have a bit of time before first fix
Knx is decentralized - what's basic and what's advanced depends mostly on the type/manufacturer of the actuator you are using.
Dimming is pretty basic stuff. You can always add the time-based stuff via HA or any knx clock-able device (some dimmers can do it natively)
Downside is: a setup to play with can be quite expensive - Especially when you don't use the devices in your real setup later.
Is that dimming as a scene or as a transition.
yeah the device cost is a step up from zigbee, guess I was checking here encase I had missed something. x10 looks dead, with KNX there options. Things like the wall switches, there basic ones and super high end ones, which could allow for growth.
the switches that have temperature senors in them are more what I have been looking at. as heating and lighting the 2 mean things i care about automating, av dont care about. Will be pulling lots of cat6.
wired PIR, temperature and wall switches are what I aiming for. Humidity and light levels can be battery devices. Lights will be wired back to the server room so can be a KNX dimmer or relay depending on the requirement.
Consider DALI for lighting when you build new. Lots of nice and cheap Led Controllers...
lol was just looking at LED controllers.
For questions about knx feel free to join https://discord.gg/2J4q7Qwq
I'm using a pi4 with ssd on USB port for HAS. I'm getting a coral stick, but I need a powered hub now. everything I can find have bad reviews (backfeeding power that damages devices, junk quality, etc). any recommendations for a hub?
preferably a 3.0 hub so I can take advantage of coral better (dunno if this matters though).
The anker ones seem ok, haven't had any issues with any of mine, running 24/7 5+ years
just checked, all the ones on Amazon right now don't work with the pi according to reviews.
Are you looking to power the PI and use it as a hub? or just use it as a hub. Most hubs wont output more than 1A, which is not enough for PI4 which need minimum 2.5A. Seeing some that will outout 2.4A which may work, but would be on the limit.
Any hub will work as a hub but if you want to power the PI also the older less power hungry (V1 or V2) one work in that type of setup.
If you plug space limited and the hub is powered by 5V PSU you could splice the cable or make a Y splitter.
is there a device like the sonoff rf bridge that works with 350Mhz frequency range?
long shot -- i am looking for a little led light that can be controlled by HA that plugs directly into an outlet. eg: i have an outlet near my alarm and i want a little led light that shines red when my alarm is set. i swear i read somewhere that this existed -- like a little led light on a stick that plugs directly into an outlet and can be controlled over wifi. don't suppose anyone knows of something like this?