#hardware-archived
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Ran out of black wires on a job is what that probably is haha
What even is the purpose of a neutral wire? What does it do?
If you don't know what a neutral does, you shouldn't do any kind of wiring that is for sure
US here. Any recommendations for motion sensors? I currently have some Hue ones, but figured I'd ask around to see if there are any other HA compatible ones that may be cheaper. Protocol doesn't necessarily matter for me, but I guess if they're natively compatible with Hue that'd be nice.
Xiaomi
Is that aqara now? That name keeps on showing up when I search it
They do many many many many ranges, but yes
I have a slight preference for https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/2AJZ4KPBS.html, but it only works on three Zigbee channels
I think the Xiaomi ones work with the Hue bridge, but I threw my bridge away years ago
What's the reasoning for the preference for these?
They're slightly more sensitive, and also Zigbee 3.0
If these don't end up compatible with the Hue bridge, it looks like I can get a generic zigbee hub/receiver. Is that correct?
Yes, that would be preferable
There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:
deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are supported. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended, but there are other options. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively. As of 1.15 has a native UI, and it also uses MQTT for control and configuration. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the recommended option being the [CC2652 based sticks](#zigbee-archived message). The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and adding unsupported devices is also documented.
#zigbee-archived has more
Thank you very much
Zigbee2MQTT and CC2652... the one true way (as opposed to the other true ways ๐ )
I'm a little concerned pitterpatter hasn't actually responded back. I hope nothing exploded in his face or something...
Never underestimate users
I just bought a Shelly Motion a couple hours ago. Waiting for it to arrive
I'm more worried I killed him with my poor copy and pasted articles on what a normal wiring looks like man lol
Not your fault if people ignore common sense
This is why I'm an angry cunt and just say don't touch it you knobhead
True that. Electricians do exist for a purpose :)
The only thing that's safe to mess with when you don't really know what you're doing is water. Electric and gas can have "unfortunate" outcomes
I've done a three year electronics repair education, I understand higher voltages and where and what I shouldn't touch, and do my own installs mostly, and tell idjits to stay away ๐คฃ
I've not had formal training, and lots of informal training, and have been tinkering with mains voltages (and there abouts) for most of my life. I've still managed to have "accidents" a few times
I do wonder if people actually plug shit into their walls and go it works but then there's a wire that's meant to go somewhere I'm like wtf you shouldn't be near that wall lol
Thankfully only once was spectacular, and that was caught by the main RCD for the office...

Well, no smoke escaped, but there was an impressive bang and flash, and some things did get an unplanned spot weld
A more tragic form of magic smoke lol
Pffft, the only thing that died was a spare PC
It was pretty convincingly dead though, 240V into a 12V bus....
Heeey you could have sold it second hand and bought an RPI for your effort
Eh, it got shoved back into the "spares" store and the boss made me promise to never talk about it
Your boss is nice lol
I think he felt guilty ๐
Nothing beats the electrician at one DC I was working at
Swapped the transformer around
Not 400v-230v, but 230v-400v
50 PSUs did not agree

Yeah, I've seen techs do ... unfortunate things like that. Hundreds (or more) of systems smoked out
Or the one where they cut power to the wrong computer hall, so turned it immediately back on - literally just click click. Lots of systems didn't recover from that
I am now convinced we pay contractors to do what they do best for a reason. What's the point of asking some in-house guy who thinks they have the right solution coz they saw it on reddit
Instead you pay a contractor who saw it on reddit
Or Google. But then again, I did send a few articles today and probably killed somebody shrugs
Darwin in action
They got insurance
Lol
In house people I don't think insurance would cover for that level of unprofessionalism
Depends on country but I'm pretty sure it would be a universal rule
shrugs ah I dunno what I'm talking about. Back to motion detectors.... I was buying one I don't think there's many out there that work without Bridges and over the WiFi (or on MQTT) ...
does home assistant run on an intel xeon?
HA runs on anything Python 3.8 (and later) runs on
that means I can comfortably run HAOS on a xeon via Proxmox
yes
Thank you both

Assuming you are going to run this on a server that will be running other stuff, I'd still say you are better off on a Pi or something
why on earth?
er
I started with my Hass setup in my home server before realizing that routine maintenance meant I had to take Home Assistant down as well
just dockerize it and don't worry lol
if you were running on Windows, then yeah
Sorry I don't mean RPi is better hardware, I mean you might not want all your hardware on one machine
otherwise, not so much
Adding a drive, or GPU meant home assistant went down. Bored update to Unraid meant a rollback night effect the Home Assistant install
Just something to consider
... sure, but you should be regularly updating a Pi as well... which is about the same amount of time
True, I guess my home server is way more likely to come down for way more reasons so separating them made my life easier
the trick is to put all of your essential stuff on one server so you never want to take it down lmao
Servers shouldn't be more likely to come down, it should be the exact opposite
question - how do you sell a home that relys on some sort of home automation system. i.e. if you installed these http://www.ctec.com.au/the-mirror-range?fbclid=IwAR3jj7cqUQdI5gE3k4cR0-z91BfIAMJxFvE8lhSTMZUSzrhGQn4l4HU6VAk
What would be the best solution for a letterbox? Motion/Lux or Vibration sensor
depending on the type a door sensor could work well
anyone install plex on portainer? i kept getting read/write permission issue
Hi, I need help. I have 2 networks (192.168.1.0/24 192.168.2.0/24). At 192.168.2.0/24 is the Xiaomi Gateway (Aqara), the hassio server is at 192.168.1.0/24. In this case, the Gateway does not find a discovery, and you can add by entering the Gateway data manually. The Gateway is integrated, its lamp works, after an indefinite time it disappears and all sensors and sensors connected to it do not update their values. What could be the reason?
I think the gateway changes his IP
a static ip was issued to the gateway
looking for anemometer, any experiences with https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001674282910.html ?
all it'd take is count pulses anyway ๐
anyone have recommendations for some smoke/carbon monoxide sensors compatible with HA? i'm assuming there's something cheaper than getting a Nest Protect at $120 each/$200 for a 2 pack.
that sounds way too expensive
connecting such stuff to HA is kinda trivial
unless you're totally not into electronics
i see zigbee ones for like $30
Of course, that $30 sensor may be no more effective at detecting smoke/fire than a brick
You'd think so
Which in the UK did a bunch of tests on modern smoke detectors, many failed to detect anything
they ones everyone has cost like $15
oww
i thought they'd all do something like IR and some refraction?
Sure, but that's like saying an internal combustion engine is simple
Which slated Devolo, Konig, and Honeywell...
They also highly rated Nest, FireAngel, and a different Honeywell model
So, Honeywell can't even consistently make effective smoke detectors
hmm, and those don't come cheap
FireAngel one is ยฃ10
Second best is the Ei Ei141RC - ยฃ17, and not far behind the Nest in first place
Well, anything that supports wired interconnect could be DIY'd to smart
indeed ๐
dutch consumer org lists fireangel as the most expensive one, at E25
most expensive good one, that is
alecto also quite acceptable, thank bob
those are very common
I'd rather spend money on a good one, than save money and have it fail to alert me to something
Yeah, but then look at what people will pay for a mobile phone ๐
right
luckily boss was all to happy to give me a dual sim one
anyway, considering automating sun awning, think i'll make it semi-autonomous
allowing HA to overrule if i want to
colleague bought an appartment where nothing worked when network was down
made me giggle indeed ๐
hey everyone , does someone knows a good store address for the ZZH stick ? I'm on the 'waiting' list and would love to have such a stick asap ๐
I want to buy a z wave stick and have seen the list of recommended sticks. https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/z-wave/controllers/#supported-z-wave-usb-sticks--hardware-modules I have a Raspi 4. which of theses sticks would you buy?
Has anyone good experience with one of the sticks on a raspi 4?
aeotec 5 works fine for me, #zwave-archived though
tuxick and tinxerer, that aliexpress CO sensor is only $1.13..is it gonna work? sort of apprehensive because tinkerer said there's a vast majority of consumer smoke detectors that don't function properly
My nest thermostat is having issues and I am sick of it. What is a good recommended replacement?
I like my Ecobees
that was the one i was looking at
you can use the Homekit Controller integration to control them locally
oh cool, more local more better.
@gloomy spoke Wait... what?! Homekit controller allows for local control of Ecobees?
Holy crap... I had no clue!
What you can do is more limited, though. You donโt get the ecobee-specific services from the cloud integration
I have it added both ways
Yeah, but even that is a step above the actual integration. To be fair, I haven't actually touched my ecobees in probably 2 or 3 years now. LOL It just runs when it sees fit
Their server reliability used to be abysmal, but theyโve seemed better lately
True. I only see a 503 error once every few months now. It used to be weekly or daily. Maybe they finally hired a proper IT guy.
You'll want to ask in #zigbee-archived.
tks @slim lagoon
Hi guys!
I found a lot of tutorials with people using NabuCasa for webhooks and so on. I've lost a lot of knowledge when it comes to advanced systems/config on computers, but I think this might work.
Instead of using NabuCasa, could i use one of my static IP adresses to accomplish the same results? pros/cons with this?
Thanks!
@hollow escarp . You are a NabuCasa fan. Maybe you could answer?? 
I go direct, despite having NC for Google Assistant
Disadvantage: You need to set up a port forwarding
Advantage: You can manage access in a fine grained manner. I for instance only allow remote access to webhooks, not all of HA
Thats a disadvantage I can live with!
And @winged knoll , your quick and precise answers is incredible. Love your dedication, thanks!!
No worries, happy to help
Could it be in your interests to help me kickstart my new hobby? mby have a VOIP call som other day.
Got great overall knowledge, but nothing deep. The main thing i need to learn is how the .yaml files work, so i can use the totorials on HS website. 
Hello, I need help with the following:
I want to buy a Computer/Server for HomeAssistant. Which hardware would you guys recommend me? I'm currently on a budget of around 100-150โฌ and I don't want to buy a Raspberry Pi because they seem to have a lot of issues (long boot times, sd card gets broken, not enough power, etc).
I am thinking of buying either one of these (the websites are in german tho):
https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/pc-intel-nuc-i3-8ram-120gb-ssd-465628235/
https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/intel-nuc-dn2820fykh-crucial-m500-120gb-ssd-4gb-crucial-ddr3-ram-465547856/
https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/nuc-mini-pc-exone-business-5303h-celeron-4gb-120gb-ssd-465718543/
https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/mini-pc-461729931/
if these aren't good enough or my budget is too low please tell me
well hard to say. Im using a Rpi and have no issues, sรฅ i really cant relate to that.
The thing aboirt RPI is thats is a dedicated OS. I dont think Windows/linux have that ??
"Dedicated OS" ๐ค
To be honest, any PC from the last 10 years, other than Atom, will be fine. I run HA on an 8 year old i5 laptop
Old Nucs are a great choice. Maybe skip the decade old celerons/pentiums if you can get an i3 or i5 for similar price instead
Does anyone know of an in-line switch that I could use to control a hot water heater that has 2 hot wires that are 30 amps each?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Sorry... Looking in the US.. Budget is dont really have one would like to be cheaper if possible.. Would like zwave or Wifi.. If it had power monitoring that would be cool but really just looking to control it..
what rpi with what accessoires do you have?
do you run home assistant os on a vm? how is performance?
No, I don't run HAOS, but performance is just fine
how do you run it? docker?
Core actually, but then I've been a *nix admin for a long long time
why would you use core? what is *nix?
*nix - unix/linux/etc
I use core because I started with HA long before HAOS existed, and because it suits me
Never bothered with it
ok
Even a Pi is a better choice than trying to turn a phone into a server ๐
well i thought it could work๐
oh yeah i've heard about that
AFTER buying a pi zero for EXACTLY that purpose
i'm just not a lucky guy i guess๐
The only time it's been mentioned in the docs has been under only for testing ๐
yeah and i made my buy decision based off a reddit user that he has no problems with running hassbian on a pi zero
after buying it i realized hassbian has been discontinued for over two years
now i'm stuck with all of my smart home appliances and my tuya devices flashed with tasmota but without a proper server and a pi zero
Well, Hassbian is just Rasbpian + HA, but also, HA of 2+ years ago was a lot smaller than today
You can get Core working there, I just wouldn't
yeah i really don't want to use core anymore
especially after using it on termux
soo any recommendations for a server?
under 100โฌ would be perfect
To be honest, any PC from the last 10 years, other than Atom, will be fine. I run HA on an 8 year old i5 laptop
oh yeah forgot about that XD
Seriously, grab something second hand off of eBay or similar
searching for one atm
https://www.servethehome.com/tag/tinyminimicro/ is also a good source of specs for small and cheap, and largely second hand
ok so if i should buy a linux/windows pc and i install vmware on it
should i just assign my entire pc power to it?
since i don't think i'm gonna use it for something else
VMWare ESXi or Proxmox if you're going down the VM route
How much you allocate depends on what specs you end up with...
HA benefits from 2+ cores and 2GB+ of RAM
probably something with a core duo
why esxi?
what's wrong with the standard version?
@random pivot When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
Because ESXi is the server version
Desktop requires a desktop OS 
Do you really want to throw away a bunch of resources?
I run it in a kvm (libvirt) vm, on Fedora 33 on a 2012 Mac Mini. It works fine.
Yup, a whole OS
why can't developers just publish the os instead of having to install a vm for it ๐
They don't want to have to maintain an OS for every piece of hardware someone might try to use.
There are images available for some standard-ish systems, like NUC.
but the home-assistant os is a iso file right? so shouldn't i be able to boot (on a pc) from that?
If the hardware on the PC has supported drivers in the OS.
The RC of the 6.0 release is "generic PC" and may work on your hardware, or may not
sooo from what i understood is the following:
download vmware esxi on an usb stick
boot server pc from that usb stick
run setup
configure everything
switch to another pc
login from ip address
create new vm
upload homeassistantos iso on that
switch back to the server pc
run vm
is that right?
a contactor mby. Colud use a smart switch to trigger the contactor. 30A is a lot for a smart socket, so you need to do something different.
Assuming your hardware is supported by ESXi
If not, Proxmox is an alternative
It's complicated...
It supports certain hardware. If your PC has those, you're good
Yes, that's VMWare
what do you think of this pc:
dell optiplex 960
preinstalled with linux mint 64bit
intel dual core
4gb ddr2
160gb hdd
specs say:
Processor Type
Q9000 Series Intelยฎ Coreโข2 Quad 12M, 1333 FSB
Q9000 Series Intelยฎ Coreโข2 Quad 6M, 1333 FSB
E8000 Series Intelยฎ Coreโข2 Duo 6M, 1333 FSB
but this guy has a picture where it says intel penitum e6500
So... it's ok - not great, but ok
For reference, a Pi4 is estimated to have a CPU Mark of about 900
Google the spec, have a look at those two sites
ok thank you very much
You want at least 2 cores, 64bit, and as good a CPU Mark as you can get for the money
thanks
highest cpu score I could get rn is 1229. what do you think of that
Better than 1000 ๐
Probably not
so proxmox is the way to go
Probably
same progress i guess right?
Generally speaking, yes
- Install Proxmox following the Proxmox docs
- Install HA in a VM following the HAOS docs
Is anyone running HA on RPi4 (HA Docker on Raspbian OS) ? I'm trying to connect Bluetooth Temperature/Humidity sensor (Xiaomi one) but i dont think Home Assistant has access to bluetooth of my Pi.... Not sure how to fix that. Been busting my head for couple of hours some people mention "--net=host" but not sure how to add that flag to docker exactly....
if you're using docker run ..., there's an example in the docs: https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/linux#platform-installation
They're actually using #330944238910963714 where they also posted
oh, goody
Yeah, another expert running the expert method ...
well where would we be without experts
Let's hope tuya doesn't listen to the recommendations on this one. Epoxied components, signed hardware etc. https://www.ispreview.co.uk/index.php/2021/05/security-researchers-find-vulnerabilities-in-uk-wifi-smart-plugs.html
What naming conventions (if any) do you use for devices ?
i do similar for lights and switches - but what about sensors - if you have multiple in same room ?
do you add purpose - i.e. motion or temperature ?
If it needs it, yes, but not always
Light and switch for instance have that in the domain
yeah
binary_sensor.living_room_motion makes more sense than binary_sensor.living_room though
sensors can get ambiguous though
I've made a naming choice that I regret - I got a bunch of sonoff temp sensors and to disambiguate them added sonoff to the name - now I wish I'd just added env (environment) instead (they do temp and humidity)
question is do I regret it enough to rename them all ๐
hey guys. is there someone who can recommend an "always-on" device? because i am not satisfied with my raspberryPi.
There's a long history of such posts here and on the forum, but it really depends on the answers to the pinned message
okay i will check ๐
That said, pretty much any PC from the last decade will work. You don't want Atom, and you really want a CPU Mark of above 1,000 - higher is better (within reason, you don't need a CPU Mark of 100K ๐ )
yeah i was just thinking about something small ๐
but i will check the chatlogs here ๐
https://www.servethehome.com/tag/tinyminimicro/ is a source of hardware options I've suggested a few times
I personally run on an 8 year old i5 laptop
i still have got an i5 downstairs. but should also work tbh
you run it as an always-on rihgt ?
And HA related things
I don't run HAOS (aka #330990055533576204) though - I run #551864459891703809 due to my background in IT
i just made a small testenvironment on my rasp
everythings working fine
now i will use my old pc to set up the prod environment with #551864459891703809 ๐
also do have a background in it







I'd probably still recommend #449717345808547842 instead
I run core partly because Container wasn't an option way back then and partly because I have some local stuff that would be a pain in the backside to get working with Docker
ah okay
Docker makes life so much easier
Lots of stuff ๐
His GitHub and his blog
It's all on my Git
you are crazy ๐
Locally I've got a hook into the Squeeze player (aka Logitech Media Server) that the HA integration doesn't support
One day I'll write an MQTT wrapper for it so I can switch to Docker
you are much more experienced ๐ but good to get to know you ๐
if i got questions i will come back to you ๐
hey @winged knoll - do you still have any original squeeze boxes ? I got mine when they first launched but they all failed in one way or another since - I only have a boom left and that's not plugged in
I have two of the Radio units. The original with the VFD died a looooooong time ago
The Radio units still work perfectly
I had 4 of the original VFD display ones
I just use google home speakers now ๐ and plex
plex not support flac is a pita though
I'm still looking for a decent replacement for them. All I want is a local API, not cloud dependant, and a good (for bedroom use) display. So far nothing comes close 
I used the pi squeeze player for a while
I also love that the alarm is local to the device, and there's a battery, so that if everything fails you still get woken up ๐
yeah - occasionally google just doesn't do its routines
thats a fun morning - although I usual beat the alarm anyway
am too committed to google home (or nest) speakers now - have one in every room - although do try to hide them
Oh, I have a bunch of them, but for "critical" use their reliance on the Internet ain't good enough
If the Home Hub units would work when disconnected, with a local alarm, I'd be using them already
google suggest alarms should still sound with no internet
obviously one that plays the radio isnt going to
Well, you'd say that, but the Home Hub displays a setup screen when there's no Internet... so I'm not going to trust that
I'm currently running hass os on a raspi 4 with the recorder set to a mysql database I have running on a mini pc. This makes hass dependent of the mini pc. Is there any way of storing the hass db on a usb drive, for example, connecting an 8gb usb drive to the raspi and save the database there so the sd card wouldn't die fast?
With #330990055533576204 you can move everything to an external drive, but not only part of it
There's two options there - one is to boot from SD and move all the data, the other is to boot
Hey, any recommendations for indoor cameras with RTSP and night vision? Ideally local only? And cheap ๐
Soon i will be pulling my hair out, i CANT understand how i can readout sceneid from my fibaro dimmer 2 switch, i want the first button to toggle and dim a connected light, that obviously work since its wired, BUT i cant get the damn button 2 to launch scenes etcetera, i have tried several times and searched all kind of forums, can someone please help me understand what im doing wrong?
Hey @winged knoll I just wanted to tell you that I got the PC and the guy who sold it to me had components in it that were actually twice as powerful as originally mentioned XD (CPU has a score of 2043).
Ordered a SSD for the server so proxmox cann boot faster
Even better 

Eh, feel free to update the channel, but you don't need to tag me ๐
Oh ok
Hello everyone. I am looking to add door/window sensors to my setup. What do you all recommend? The guides I have been finding seem like they are out of date because the hardware is unavailable.
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
You can't really go wrong with Xiaomi Aqara (zigbee) sensors and your choice of #zigbee-archived integration
Those are what I have been eyeing up because they are cheap. lol
Thank you for your input.
It appears those need an additional Xiaomi gateway to make them work?
Did you read the second half of my response?
Oh wait... it's just an integration.
tl;dr

#skimmedit
Yes, you can use it with your choice of #zigbee-archived integration - key thing being #zigbee-archived
That channel has a pinned message, and topic, that can guide further
(in short, gateway not required)
I did skim. Sorry about that.
Was reading this at the same time. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/xiaomi_aqara
technically a gateway/hub/stick required
Right, but not an additional gateway, which is nice.
Any pre-existing devices that can detect a 24VAC signal and send a message to mqtt or similar?
Is it possible to use a smart things hub, instead of a z-wave/zigbee USB stick? The location of my server is not ideal, would be better to use a smarty things hub centrally located in my case.
If this is possible, is there any downsides?
Not as a "stick" in the sense that you can use it with ZHA/Z2M, no. You can leave your devices hooked up to SmartThings and then use the SmartThings integration to bring the devices into HA.
Is this integration reliable? Or is it best to use USB stick? If I use USB stick, I would need to use z-wave repeaters/extenders, which... Just adds more complexity and probably unreliability anyways lol
it works until samsung decides otherwise
Ahh, I see. Ok then
You should also check the IoT class
If you aren't using extenders now, you'd probably not need them with a good Z-Wave coordinator. The Smartthings radios aren't that good. lol
My issue is my server which would be running home assistant is in a far end area of the basement, pretty much away from everything else. Plus cinder block, etc make for crappy signal. I have wireless AP in the main part of the house. So having the hub connected to the wifi centrally located I think seems like a good solution.
Anyways, thanks for the info I will look into z-wave coordinator
Anyone ever use a usb over Ethernet adapter to mount their z wave stick in a more optimal location?
Thankfully with both Zigbee and Z-Wave you can run the coordinators remotely
For both you can just run a Pi somewhere central with the required USB sticks and use Zigbee2MQTT and ZWaveJS
Did it not work first try or what?
But with just ZWaveJS you still run the Z-Wave part "remotely"
Hi, I realize this might be off topic but if it wasn't virtually unsearchable I wouldn't ask: Can I connect Ikea tradfri LEDs to a "hardware" dimmer but keep it all the way turned up without destroying them?
If the dimmer never actually dims at all you should be fine
The problem may come if it turns out they always do some dimming, that way will lead to burned out dimmers/bulbs/both
Thanks. Since I can't guarantee it and I don't have any equipment to measure it I'll probably forego changing those bulbs then.
Does anybody know of a CO2 / Air quality sensor? I have a zwave setup, but can deal w/ zigbee or wifi if it's just that. Air quality is easy enough, but I also want ambient co2 (so I can trigger house fan to move air around and stuff like that)
I'm picking up 24 Sylvania ZigBee bulbs and saw I would need a hub other than the Philips Hue I currently have (for a few pre-existing bulbs). I picked up the Aeotec Smartthings Hub since it seemed like a solid catch-all solution for ZigBee and ZWave, but... it looks like I need to go through this whole thing of using letsencrypt and SSL and such.
I can't find much info on whether I will always need this SSL setup though? And whether this means my ZigBee devices require the Smartthings cloud just to function? Or is this just a one-time integration with home assistant?
I'd like to not have any outside connections to Home Assistant, in the long run.
Sorry if this falls outside the purview of "hardware" - if this particular hardware requires a software setup I don't want though, I want to know what my alternatives are.
zigbee2mqtt will fix your woes. all in house
Was that in regards to me?
yes
Well, I'm probably fine to return this thing, but if it does work besides an initial authorization, it seems pretty handy.
So I guess my #hardware-archived question is - just how tied to the cloud is the Aeotec Smartthings Hub?
And then separately I probably have to ask #integrations-archived about the integration's dependency on cloud software.
I just use a USB dongle into my HA machine
I might end up going that way at this rate. Return what I have.
Alright. Return scheduled. ConBeeII it is...
Wifi smart bulbs (non rgb) recommendations?
ZigBee > WiFi for sure for bulbs
The VHDX for window hyper-v download shows as .vhdx.xz , nothing will recognize this .xz file. How can I get it imported into Hyper-V?
Sounds like #330990055533576204 we don't do that here
ohh, thanks!
hey guys the I have a ring 2 doorbell and just realized the thing is dead but its been hardwired since day one. Took the battery out and charging it. Does it still need the battery to run?
@slim lagoon , I received my intel pro 1000 4 port card today and it doesnโt fit in the SFF case ๐คฆ. What do you think? Modify the case or get a different card? Not sure I can even get a 4 port card for sff case?
There are a lot of half width four port Pcie cards @undone haven
Guessing it is a regular half width slot?
I just found one called low profile that I think will work
dont mind modifying anything as long as I can get the cover on ๐คฃ
and the wonderfulness that is return shipping and restocking fees.....
U muricans and your amzoons
The old hp 364 / 365t cards might be worth it too
I have a few in my garage
Come with both full size and half size bracket
even if you gave it to me, shipping from ๐ง ๐ and ๐ฆ would cost $1,936.00 and it wouldn't arrive till March 2022
๐
Hello! My HA was working fine and when I came back from our of town it is not connected to my network anymore. Iโve tried everything - resetting my router, raspberry, etc. Iโm also connected via Ethernet. Please help!
Anyone have a good door sensor that works with Home Assistant?
Is there a compatibility list somewhere?
Monoprice Wireless Smart Door/Window Sensor - White | Compatible with Alexa and Google Assistant, No Hub Required - From STITCH Smart Home Collection https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GQ9P31H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MN2VBB0VZV1TF1AYN0HH
How can I do that? I have a monitor and keyword hooked to the Pii.
@viscid tulip Aqara ones are recommended a lot
Any recommendations for in-wall smart switches? I'm thinking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08428GHM8?tag=smarthomeperf-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1 but I'm wondering if there's anything cheaper
I picked up a free Amazon fire 5 tablet today to use as a secondary (back entry) hub and got HA installed on it. Went through the process of logging into my HA interface and am getting a err ssl protocol error. Unsure why this is happening on a secondary device. Anyone familiar that could point me in the right direction?
Hi bro
Hello everyone, i need to get a cc2531 or a conbee II to start a zigbee network but my Pi is inside a metal cabinet case that cuts a lot the wifi signals, can someone give me a tip about the way i can use one of that usb dongle without being directly connected to the RPi? (noob here) thanks
conbee + extension cord?
got confused, your advice is discard the cc2531 and use the conbee with the usb cord is that what you mean?
Don't get a Conbee, or a CC2531
Putting a decent Zigbee stick on a USB extension cable is always advised
and what do you call a decent zigbee stick? i only know about those 2
See the #zigbee-archived channel's pinned messages
The CC2531 is about the worst though ๐
haha i read about it, but "everyone" loves the conbee ii that why i was asking
"everyone"... who runs deCONZ
And those who haven't caught up with progress ๐
With Zigbee2MQTT you'll see the pinned message advises CC2652 based sticks
With ZHA you'll see the pinned message also recommends EmberZNet based sticks
thanks! im going to check it out
Sorry!!! I was out of cell service all day yesterday... ๐ฆ Looks like you got a fix?
Yes, thank you
hi everyone, would this be the right place to ask for help identifying the right controller for a specific led strip?
Depends on whether you're building your own (#diy-archived) or what is this
ah im barely starting out with home automation, so I think its not considered building my own? basically I have some LED strips on hand and was wondering what kind of controller do I purchase for them
Depends, are those analogue or digital?
I believe analog since they arent individually addressable
These are the ones https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32849307482.html
Then the pinned message has some questions you need to answer ๐
Got it, in this case I've actually narrowed down my options to a specific product I just need to choose the right variant ๐
Then... why didn't you say that, and what they are, so folks can help?
I'm sorry haha just figuring out the etiquette here
Well, if you want general advice and guidance, asking general questions is good
Wasting everybody's time if you've already narrowed it down and don't want further advice... that's not good
https://gd4.alicdn.com/imgextra/i3/2204106581170/O1CN01nnbIFL1KVu0Dq4b0Y_!!2204106581170.jpg these are the options I have. Would I be right to assume the V+, R, G, B one is the one I want? Just based off matching the connections to the strip.
Feels wrong to select a controller with RGB on it when the strip is just dual white leds
got it I'll get straight to the questions in the future
You linked to Double Color 5050 LED Strip White / Warm White Dual White 2 color
That's not RGB...
I'd have thought you want the CCWW one
Assuming it even works with HA
indeed, but the strip has RGBV connections on it, hence I'm confused how does that wire into the CCWW connectors
the shop recommended me the CCWW controller too but couldn't provide much info on how the wiring from the RGBV connections on the strip would work
Those are just the colours of the cables
The wire insulation colour doesn't have to mean anything
Of course, you linked to an image of a product, so ... hard to help
Let me try to find the same product on an english website, so far I've only been able to find it on my local site which is in chinese.
Yeah, the CCWW one says CCT which is what you're after
Great thanks! Would you be able to provide any insight on how the wiring from the strip would go? Because I've spent the whole evening googling CCT led strip wiring but they are mostly 3 pin strips
I've not seen a four pin one myself 
It's quite likely though that the images are wrong ๐
Or they just re-used existing RGB strips and changed the LEDs...
As far as I can tell (from googling, 0 experience here), 3 pin strips have the cool and warm LEDs as separate alternating chips on the strip, whereas 4 pin strips have the cool and warm as halves in one LED
The strip says RGB, but the LEDs are clearly whites
indeed, hence my confusion. I had also suspected the picture was wrong but searching 5050 cct strips seems to show the same 4 pin RGBV configuration
I guess I'll look to purchase the 3pin strips just to be sure of the controller haha. Will figure out the 4pin strips as I gain more experience I guess.
Thanks for the help anyway!
Hi I have a blue cc2531 zigbee usb stick like this
it works with 2 of my xiaomi aquara temp/humidity sensors
but they update like once every hour
both sensors are super close to the rpi - no more that 3 meters
why it's happening?
Well, the sensors send the update, but that's a topic for #zigbee-archived
oh ok sorry!
is this still a good option for zwave/zigbee usb stick? https://www.amazon.com/QuickStick-Combo-HUSBZB-1-Nortek-Cert/dp/B0157GOEA8/
No
due to antenna or?
Age
this is based on Silabs older EM3581 "Ember" family chip
Well, you want a 700 series Z-Wave stick
And then you want either a CC2652/CC2652p based stick, or a current generation EZSP Zigbee stick
are there name brands to look for or avoid within those options?
See the #zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived channels for specific advice, but where in the world you are, and which Zigbee integration you plan on using, those both matter
hmm
my overall goal was to be able to get any zwave or zigbee device and connect to hass
so i actually need to know which zwave or zigbee devices i want before i can decide on which stick to use?
kk
And for Z-Wave, where in the world you are matters, a lot
The #zwave-archived channel can help there
I'm not sure what to google to get data such at temp CPU usage and ram usage of a rpi that is NOT my has host
But I'd want to see that data as it's in a wall
I'm thinking of writing an app for this but don't want to start as I'm not sure if someone hasn't yet implemented it
You mean SNMP?
Or remote glances?
Or a dozen other modern nonsense implementations
Does anyone have recommendations for good battery powered zwave temp and humidity sensors?
I love Aeotecโs door/window sensors and they have a temp/humidity sensor
Thanks thatโs exactly the kind of thing I was looking for
I have their multi-sensor, it's pretty solid
Open hardware monitor
My video doorbell blew up, And I'm now in the market for a replacement, anyone have a recommendation?
Obviously local control is preferred, But reliability is of utmost importance.
I'm just now starting my search, And you guys were the first place I thought to check with ๐ going to go jump on YouTube and see if I can't find any good recommendations there too
@undone haven You said that you really like your nest doorbell, what's that cloud subscription cost nowadays? I remember when I first bought my ring it was too rich for my blood but I don't remember what the number was.
I have other cameras that record locally that have a view of the door so I donโt subscribe to their service.
Oh, so you can still integrate the doorbell into home assistant and get the base doorbell functionality like when the doorbell gets pressed and a live feed without a subscription?
Yes, I have also had it a while so I have a nest dev account to integrate it into HAss. You canโt get a nest dev account any more but HAss has an official integration. I am told on the official integration you get a live feed into HAss as I only have stills that update every 15 secs on the UI. only thing I donโt like is there is no entity exposed to show a doorbell press with the nest dev account. Not sure if the HAss integration exposes this or not.
I typically use the app for doorbell presses anyway.
As it has audio
Okay, doesn't sound like a bad option then. I'm already in the Google Nest ecosystem, with a Google home in every room, and a nest thermostat.
I've already got the new updated Google Nest DIY developer API account thing, I forget what it's called, so I already have my thermostat in home assistant so it'll probably all just populate in as soon as I add it to my account then without having to do any funny business
I used to have a ring and hated it. I could never connect when someone was at the door. Someone once stood outside for like 5 min and the physical bell never rang. Sold it on flea bay and got the nest. Connects like a champ every time
I never had any issues with my ring, thankfully, My biggest complaint about it was always the video quality.
my HA install bit the dust thats a bit over 3 years old. its on an older pi3B+. is the ODROID-N2+ the recommended hardware to go with?
Any used last 10y Intel laptop or minicomputer > odroid or pi nonsense, as long as it isn't an atom
If you are interested in learning something and have freedom #449717345808547842 if you want to be locked into an appliance hell #330990055533576204
FTW
The other two are for.... 1%
Well, 1% and 1% of 1%
how much learning with container? if i am coming from hassio
Not that I'm doing anything That needs major horsepower, but I'm really happy running my pi4 with #330990055533576204 while wait for my odroid (HA blue) to ship.
well thats questionable at times ๐คฃ
I'll chime in, as a noob with Linux, I did not like #449717345808547842.
Read the docker documentation for "installing docker on <your os>" and "installing docker compose"
A lot of the documentation required too much foundational knowledge that I didn't have.
Then read "installing home assistant on docker "
It is basically 5 commands from the os is installed
After only a couple months of trying to migrate to #449717345808547842 recommended to me, I gave up and went back to #330990055533576204
You can be up and running on docker with about 5 commands
7 with sudo apt update and sudo apt upgrade
Yes, but then you also have to manage the operating system, And if you're not already familiar with maintaining Linux, It's not trivial.
If you ever want to work within IT, getting familiar with Linux is a must knowledge, if not, y'all gonna be bored ๐คฃ
HAss installed on other than linux ๐คซ
i just need something fairly stable and simple. running some zwave dimmers and switches, some hue lights. mostly after scheduled automation for this install
Sure, but home assistant isn't just for IT professionals. So #449717345808547842 is not a one size fits all recommendation.
They said they're coming from hassio, which was the same place I was coming from, and regretted trying to go to #449717345808547842 Because it was more things to manage that I had no interest or time in learning.
I'm saying you're wrong, just tossing in an alternate perspective
A pi or an odroid will fast get a limiting factor atleast, which is why we usually recommend something expandable @rocky tapir
will just ha_os be fine though on a intel laptop?
Sure ๐คข
i know you say its limiting...
Itโs all HAss under the hood.....the amount you can expand other things is where you are limited or not
just need to get something simple running with devices i have which arent very complex
Itโs a preference. Do what makes you happy
i just run the lighting and stuff at my bar with it.
Hey does anyone have a recommendation for an in wall smart outlet? It will be outdoors but is covered by one of those protective coverings. I had a ge zwave go bad recently, and haven't had great success with ge stuff.
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Usa, <$50,and open to anything. Looking to just turn on/off some market lights we have out on a deck
I already have zwave setup and anything wifi of course
Looks like there's a lot of options for small Z-wave relays in budget, when I just search Google I get this for example: https://www.amazon.com/zwave-relay/s?k=zwave+relay
Unfortunately I have no experience with relays, but I figured maybe just sharing the word with you would help. Should be easier to find a small board than when you use "switch" as a search term.Good luck! โค๏ธ
Guys . I am new to home automation. Anyone can suggest me light switches to control lights and fans
I would like to integrate with my home assistant also
First you tell me a good length for a string. It's for tying stuff.
Or maybe budget, skill level, other equipment, system preferences... etc ad nauseam.
@violet cedar Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Does anyone know the usb port on the HA blue could have stopped working suddenly.
Doesn't appear to be linked to a specific update. Just no longer providing power to my ZZH
#330990055533576204 is the home of the Blue, but presumably you've tried other devices in that port/that device in other ports
Ah, thanks! Will post in there but yes. I've tried a few including a usb light which gets no power
Sounds then like you can ignore the ZZH as part of this ๐
From India, less than โน2k per switch ,zigbee
If you look in the pinned messages of the #zigbee-archived channel you'll find lists of known working hardware
Sorry I am able to find what I need
Anyone else buy loads of sonoff mini r2's just to realise your switches don't have a neutral wire
Ouch
Ah well, luckily it's less than ยฃ100 wasted
Could always sell them on eBay or just keep them for any further lights that I do
Need a few for outside
If I fix them into the light switch I lose the switch ability which is no good.
Sorry dude. Son off is little worst. I am looking something like Luttron casetra switches
i saw the announcement of raspberry pi having an easy installation of HA
i was wondering how do dashboards work? are they connected to your HA machine or do you leave your tablet on like a kiosk mode and have it display a webpage
All access to the UI is via a browser, which can run on a tablet
I guess if you install a desktop OS on the Pi and then install HA, you could access it with a browser on the Pi. But thatโs not typical
sounds good, guess ill just purchase some 100$ raspberry pi 4 kit i saw on amazon that had a case, fan, etc
Guys I'm looking for zigbee wall switches that doesn't cut out the power to the bulbs. It would be just to get the ON/OFF event to control the bulbs through HA.
Right now I have some power off switches and I have problems adapting lights over the day since the bulbs are powered off
So any wireless switch
And don't use the physical switch
Or just move to presence detection for lights off and on
The wirelless switch ive found (ikea for example) are not wall mounted ๐ฉ
All wireless switches i own Are wall mounted

And the IKEA ones are wall mounted too

Thanks for the link, that is insane
I will double check the ikea switches
It felt like Ikea ones were too small to be mounted on my switch wall box or whatever is called in english
thanks all for the help
good double sided tape makes almost anything wall mounted

Yeah I guessed that was your suggestion about ikea "wall mounted". The thing is I have every switch I have is flushed to the wall in to a junction box. I'd have to search for some kind of cover, then paint or even plaster.
If you want to cover switchboxes, buy a 3d printer
True, I can actually 3d print 
or buy wall switch sized remote switches ๐
We just don't press switches anymore 
but "they" do
Yeah saw in the link you posted some nice aqara wireless switches. Dumb of me I bought few months back wired ones.
I might go for that
they should be coming out with some EU standard switches soon
hey there,
I here for a best practice advice.
I am looking for a led dimmer.
It is 12V and 60W led strip.
The dimmer can be a wifi or zigbee(zhh!, zha) also.
one option is shelly rgbw2 . I just intrested is there any other option?
EU has standards?
I don't understand the question
Hi, I recently purchased a sonoff smart switch and tried to pair my mobile phone on 2.4ghz wifi to the device, however pairing failed for quick pairing and compatible paring. Anyone suggestions what else I can do? The router settings seem to be correct.
Or does anyone have a phone number of the customer support? I can't find it.
You are a life saver thanks
not sure if the number is for support per se
I doubt very much it is, but if somebody's going to join an unrelated Discord just to ask that ...
If anyone is in need of motion sensors and temp/humidity/pressure sensors, this pack seems like a good buy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091BWL6BH?pf_rd_r=69RV2KJG2GY9ZJ0G72WC&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=95379e61-40fe-4e55-b9d3-2379e40f9f60&pd_rd_w=Zc8Jd&pd_rd_wg=qOqgL&ref_=pd_gw_unk
hi guys!
I have this bug where when I open my ceiling light (Tuya device flashed with Tasmota link: https://templates.blakadder.com/oeegoo_OEE216.html) with HomeAssistant and select a color it would show this color for not even one second and then go back to white.
any suggestions for in wall dimmer switches that arent zwave?
wow those are cheap. so wifi is the way to go for smartening up dumb lights
seems easier than this zwavejs2mqtt option and keep my zwave paddles
I have a Zigbee smart plug which works correctly with on/off but smart metering shows "unknown"
Anyone else have this issue in the past?
Did I read somewhere that the June HAOS release will have Coral m.2 PCI TPU drivers?
NM.....found my answer. Patiently waiting ๐
Anyone seen this from a MH-Z19B? The green one is stable, but then has this weird hysterisis... yellow one is fine. https://i.imgur.com/24Rtn6i.png
Both are MH-Z19B's, plugged into CO2home which run esp32/esphome. When I built the second one (that is weird), it seemed fine upstairs.
Anyone knows how to fix this?
Or do I need to go to #integrations-archived ?
Any Aqara G2H users here?
I found this hostname script to place on a SD card to get root access over Telnet (port 23)
Got RTSP streams working :). I also sw there is a Mosquitto instance running when typing "top" in the Telnet session and in netstat
Anyone an idea how to connect to the broker? I tries "root" and the newly changed password, but that didn't work for me.
Did you try to connect to it with no user/pass? Sometimes these built-in brokers have zero security on them.
@lavish heath posted a code wall, it is moved here --> https://paste.ubuntu.com/p/Rkt2Hs9vtY/
Quite some settings to play with
only you need to md5 hash that flash_config.ini file
Hi All. I have a couple of Sonoff B05 bulbs. I am really struggling for them to connect to wifi and once connected to stay connected. its like their wifi is really weak. I have a ubiquity wifi system and many other wifi switches all over my house and I dont have issues with anything else. has anyone experienced something similar with these bulbs? I dont know what to do.
Hey all...my Google foo may be failing me, but has anybody heard of an integration with Weedtech's Weederboards (Serial boards) specifically https://weedtech.com/wtssr-m.html which is my last thing I need move over from MisterHouse for my sprinklers. I've not done an integration with HomeAssistant yet and wanted to make sure nobody has done this yet before I go down this path.
man, that's a forum post if I've ever seen one
I can repost. Should I?
I would put a giant post like that in the forum
Generally if you find yourself writing something up to copy and paste, consider the forum
I wrote it right now. Not copy-pasted from another place. Only for technical reasons, to split for several messages due discord limit
ah, okay. "due to discord limit" is another clue
I've just reposted it here: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/looking-for-advices-to-upgrade-an-existing-home-assitent-system/311508
Should I delete it from a channel in discord?
Itโs off the screen by now ๐
OK, thx Rob
By the way, advices what to buy and how to achieve goals are very appreciated
I don't know if this is the right place to ask this, but is Gearbest a pretty reputable retailer in the US for buying some Aqara stuff?
From what I've heard (and the couple of orders I've done there over the past few years), Gearbest isn't too bad.
Finally decided to delete my big message
Pls advice which devices to choose or why my current choice maybe wrong. TL;dr: upgrade an existing home assistent instance, by improving current implementation(currently it auto change light and light temperature) and assign new roles: manage air conditining, manage humidity, and, in the next iteration of upgrade, a security.
Hi everyone, I am new to HA. I already have a lidl zigbee gateway. I wish to install a temperature and humidity sensor. Would this Zigbee gateway be enough or do I need another zigbee USB dongles (the Sonos one)?
You should ask in #zigbee-archived. Usually these Zigbee hubs only support the brands' own products. If there's an integration for the Lidl one, then all the temp and humidity sensors they sell should work in HA via that gateway. However for the future, you might want to check out a more universal USB stick. Check the topic in #zigbee-archived
~In HA in a R-pi 4, how can I see or find the SoC Temperature??? Thanks
anyone have experience with LED strips turning green when you choose red, and turning red when you choose green?
means you have a GRB led strip instead of RGB
is there some customization that can be done to a light entity in HA to tell it that the device is GRB vs RGB?
or would that be integration-dependent?
nobody know how pull the actual temperature in the R-pi SoC (proccessor) running the HomeAssistant???
Following lines in configuration.yaml
sensor:
- platform: command_line
name: CPU Temperature
command: "cat /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp"
unit_of_measurement: "ยฐC"
value_template: '{{ value | multiply(0.001) | round(2)}}'
let me try it, thanks
you need to connect the led strip so the channels fit
that makes sense.
Awesome, it works beautifully, I only was having troubles to convert back to C since HA is setup to F, as soon find out is temperature it convert it, so I create in NodeRed a sensor node and in the unit use " ยฐC" with space at the start!!!
Hey everyone, I have a yeelight bulb that just disappeared from my HA instance and I have no clue why does anyone have an idea as to what it can be? I have the IP setup in the config with the others so I'm kind of lost.
@trim crescent did you set it up via configuration.yaml or the UI
config
So the file
yes
I checked that, still the same
Did you just set it up in Home Assistant or have you been using it for a while
And are there any errors related to it in the logs?
been using it for a bit, that's why it just disappearing all the sudden is so weird
logs said nothing as far as I saw, the device just disappeared from the yeelight integration
yea, can access it through my alexa and the yeelight app
Ok
it's like something is blocking it from HA
Have you done anything remotely related, like changing settings on your router, moving it, changing setting for the lightbulb, or anything like that?
nah, noticed it wasn't working with my button and then checked and noticed it wasn't registering with the yeelight integration
I hate it when stuff randomly stops working because usually I can't figure out what the problem is
oh yea, been racking my brain for a bit now
I'm gonna just try factory resetting the bulb
all of my other bulbs work fine so
Ok maybe that will work
It could just be a bulb issue preventing the API from working properly
if that's the case I have no idea how to fix that lol
Factory resetting will probably fix it unless it is a permanent hardware issue
I should mention that I don't own any Yeelight products
Oh well
Maybe someone else can help you
If you didn't already, I would post this on the Home Assistant forum, because your messages might get burried here. @trim crescent
Thanks, I might tomorrow
Hi everyone. no idea if this is the right part to ask this question if so you're allowed to put me in the naughty corner for a minute. ๐
right now I have all smartlights, the gf cant help herself but use my switches. now I was wondering if there are any switches I can install on my wall that just send out a zigbee signal? so I could use zigbee2mqtt to capture that button and control my lights that way w/o her messing up my system xD
Sure, there's a long list of options in the hardware lists pinned in #zigbee-archived
thanks ๐
Anyone know if it's possible to use a Fitbit with NFC to activate a Home Assistant NFC tag? I want to be able to tap a tag after taking my vitamins or finishing my water bottle to log it to my health app but don't want it to depend on my phone
does innovelli not have those outdoor outlet zwave repeater things anymore?!
General question: I have a handful of TP-Link HS105 switches. SOME work fine, while 2 of them constantly go "unavailable" and never come back, even after a restart. I've found a few old threads that go back a few years with this same problem, but no real definitive solution. So, my question is: is there a way to reflash these plugs to use some other platform (like MQTT or Tasmota) so they stay available? If so, any links to where I might find a how-to?
Nope. They use a custom chipset. There are some scripts/services on github that will allow you to insert mqtt between HA and the tp-link switches, but I don't think that'll solve the issue though.
It could just be faulty hardware ๐คทโโ๏ธ
Thanks... I guess I could replace them with some Tuya switches... I just kinda hate tossing them.
Agreed. I learned long ago to always buy spares ๐ (literally, I have like 6 spare motion/contact sensors should I need to swap out one that dies).
Good idea. I should start doing that myself.
I've got a Philips Hue Bridge, a Lutron Caseta Bridge, and now I'm adding a Z-Wave device... is there a particular hub/bridge piece of hardware I should look at to cover my bases for Z-wave + future non-Z-Wave devices?
No hubs, just the relevant sticks
I don't even know what that means!
I've only seen hubs so far, what's a stick? (googling)
so... is the main way to use z-wave via a stick?
Yes
i was expecting to connect something to my network, not to a usb port
so, the sticks connect to a computer like a raspberry pi?
Yes
do you need one pi per stick? like, would i need a separate pi for a z-wave stick and another pi for a zigbee stick? or would you connect them all to the same pi?
i've got homeassistant running in docker on my synology nas right now, and i've only just started setting it up
so my questions might be not even wrong
Some do both protocols, but a single Pi can support multiple usb devices
maybe a better question would be: is there a guide for a recommended setup? heh
i have no idea if HA in docker is even a good idea
it just seemed easy
There are links in the link I gave above
ok, i'll check it out. i actually have a few years old intel nuc somewhere, maybe i can get that running
See also the #zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived channels for advice about setups
are there any "you're going to need both eventually" channels? ๐
We tried #z* but then it confused people ๐
Some newfangled z* protocol. Just what we need
It's ok, it won't matter ๐คช
I see what you did thereโฆ
What good outlets are there to be able to run automations based on the power usage running thru them?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
*US
*whatever
*prefer wifi
*power monitoring
There aren't really a lot of good WiFi outlets... at least ones that integrate with HA easily. Maybe some Tuya ones, but not 100% certain on that.
There's quite a few but you need to get Tasmota or esphome on them
Tasmota 
Anyone here use Withings sleep tracking? I have a sleep tracker I just set up but the 'in_bed' sensor just does not want to trigger. Just says unavailable despite me literally laying on the bed
Hi, does anyone know of a way to give my Home Assistant running on a different device access to Bluetooth via my laptop? I have two devices that use BLE but donโt have a dongle
Can you explain what you're trying to achieve @arctic pawn? Some sort of a bridge I suppose? MQTT should help out and instead of a laptop there are options like ESP32 (#diy-archived) you can use
Any recommendation for Zigbee smart plugs with power monitoring besides Aqara? Just price shopping
15A required
i have this generic home depot motion sensor security light outside, but the damn thing doesnt have a sensitivity adjustment and picks up small leaf movement from wind, basically constantly triggering. I can probably just get another light that has a sensitivity adjustment but i wonder if there is some home assistant compatible alternative people use
Hi. i have HA running with a CC2531 usb stick. i want to reinstall HA now, because of reasons. Can i switch from CC2531 to my new CC2652R stick when it arrives or is it better to do the new installation with the CC2652R stick?
If you follow the backup procedure and you already run the zb3 firmware on it @drifting grove sure
And is a good example why Zigbee2mqtt decoupled is a great idea, don't care where your ha is running and if you reinstall ha
There's a pinned message over in #zigbee-archived that covers migrating even between Zigbee 1.2 and 3.0 firmware sticks
Hey - thoughts on running both Octoprint and Home Assistant on the same Raspberry Pi 3B?
I searched the forums and found one thread where one person said "why would you ever do that" and someone else saying "it's 100% fine," so I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not. Worst case I can just get a second Pi, but if I can do both on just the one, I'd prefer that.
If so, which route would you go for installation? To me, it makes sense to use one of the pre-built images and then a virtual env for the other install, but please let me know if that's dumb/won't work.
You should install HA via #449717345808547842
Would I do that on top of an Octopi install? Or also install Octoprint via Docker?
Apologies, relatively new to Raspberry Pi/Linux stuff in general, so sorry if these are stupid questions.
Itโs intended to be installed on an OS that you choose and install. Instructions are in the pinned messages in that channel
Okay, I'll take a look at that and see if I can figure it out, thanks!
Okay, so I think my gameplan is to install the 64-bit Raspberry Pi OS Lite version, then install Docker and Docker Compose, then use that to install both HA and Octoprint. Once those are both set up, then I can use the Octoprint Integration to make HA and Octoprint talk to each other.
Sounds like a plan
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
I have https://www.cablematters.com/pc-1266-136-4-port-usb-30-switch-with-remote-control.aspx which CableMatter's support tells me uses a RF 2.4Ghz Remote with NEC coding. Is there any way I could control that from home assistant?
Any way to power multiple ~1-1.5m long led strips from one power outlet?
Impossible to tell without more information
I want to use 3/4 wled strips close to each other. Each one would have its own ESP32 controller but I was wondering if I could use a single power supplie to power them all. The power consumption of the strips is ~18w per meter max
Shouldn't be a problem.
Sounds reasonable
And how would I do that? Can I simply splice a cable from a 60w power supply, or do I need a special power supply with multiple outputs?
Depends on what you feel comfortable with
I would prefer not to have to solder since I'm shit at it, but I could get a friend to do it if necessary
Anyone use the "Frient Intelligent Smoke Sensor" with Conbee II? Does it work?
#zigbee-archived would be a place to ask about that, but the stick is less important than your choice of Zigbee integration
The question is really whether it works with deCONZ/ZHA/Zigbee2MQTT/etc
@cloud hull soldering cables is easy, I'm sure you can manage it. But heck even just twisting the cables together is works fine, but an electrician will laugh at you when they see it. You can also run the power from one end of the strip to the other if that's easier for you (with 5V strips the voltage drop could be an issue though)
I'm wondering what the best/cheapest addressable RGBCCW strips are that can either be flashed with Tasmota or integrate directly into HA. Don't feel like spending hundreds on Lifx/Hue or other options if I don't need to.
WLED
Build your own to suit your requirements though I'm not sure it has any support for anything other than RGB
WLED only supports RGB/RGBW.
Are there any addressable RGBCCT lights yet?
I think aircookie put RBGCCW in a beta at one point and it didn't go well.
I've only seen RGBW myself
I think btf-lighting makes one, but it's something like $45US for a 5m strip.
And I know that Quinled was working on a controller that would work with them, but I have no idea where his progress is with it.
Ahh thanks guys. So I basically just need a power supply, an ESP8266 board and some compatible strips and I'm good to start programming?
Yup
@ember shell WLED also has a discord server.
Should you run into issues or whatnot.
https://discord.gg/KuqP7NE then ๐
Correction: https://quinled.info/2018/09/17/rgbwwcw-led-strips/ Quinled does have support for RBGCCW. ๐
Thank you. Not done much work with ESP8266 but I'm assuming it can't output 12V and I'll need a supplementary power brick for a 12V strip?
You'll need something to power the ESP, which could well be a step down from the 12V/24V/whatever
That looks to be all analogue though ๐ค
Yup. All my projects are 12V. I use Meanwell LR-350-12 power supplies with a 12V-5V buck converter for the esp boards.
It might be? I don't use RBGCCW at all. All my strips are either WS2811/WS2812B (RGB/RGBW).
Plus, I've not bought any of Quin's controllers (although they are supposed to be really good).
My RGB-CCT is all analogue
- well, all one of them 
I've been keeping an eye out for digital RGB-CCT, but it looks like it's too soon
I thought the WS2812B was 5V. You said you only use 12V?
Yeah, might be too soon. This was the last project I built with WS2812B bullet pixels: https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/comments/komobi/i_made_an_accent_light_using_a_small_matrix_250/
There are 5v, 12v, and 24v varieties of the WS2812B.
Ohh, good to know. Thanks for that.
The 24V is harder to find usually. But they are great for super long runs.
Would 12V be enough for a 6m run or would you recommend 24V?
For 6m? Pick your poison. 5v would work, but you'll most likely have to do power injection ~4m in.
Yeah I'm not injecting. Too messy and 5V is never enough anyway.
I'll stick with 12V then by the sounds.
I'd err on the side of "too much" vs "too little"
I've done runs of >50m using 12v with no injection.
Was that one LED a meter ๐
But I wouldn't go above 60m without injection if you are planning on doing 100% white.
HA! Nope.
Nah this is 6m for under bed accent lighting. Plus my bed definitely isn't an Alaska King size.
I wish it was though...
So much room for activities
Tinkerer: This is typically what I use in my outdoor applications: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KP2VTY5/
Interesting approach
@ember shell RIGHT?! You must be young... ๐ At my age, it's all about having room to sleep with the wife and dogs in the bed with you and not having to fight to have 3" in the bed while they all sleep spread-eagle... lmao
Young and single. I need the Alaska King though so I have room to put all the shit from on my desk when I start using it each day. Then I need the desk space to move all shit from on my bed when I sleep
It's a rough cycle.
lmfao
One quick question about the WS2812B strips, is there a max LED/m they support? I've found a nice 144LED/m model I wouldn't mind.
Depends on the controller. WLED can handle those as the FastLED and WS2812FX libraries do.
Just remember that to include that in your power requirement calculations. Higher leds/m require more power.
Will do, thanks mate.
Oh actually that one was the WS2815, same support though I take it?
AFAIK, yeah.
Thanks a bunch
Basically, when you're selecting a LED chipset, check to see which ones FastLED (http://fastled.io/) supports. That's basically your litmus test for support.
Ha, author hasn't updated the GH list of supported models in 3 years.
I imagine that WS2815 was added at some point though
LOL I would imagine so as I know WLED supports WS281*.
Good enough for me, next payday I know what I'm getting.
Nice! Good luck! Once you build your first one, well... it's a deep, dark rabbit hole is all I'm saying ๐
Yeah I've seen way too many posts on /r/homeassistant to be good for my wallet.
Far out, 6m of 144/m comes out to around 52A.
No that can't be right
Yeah, that's actually about right.
Damn it is right
Can I get a 100w power supply for a led strips that would take ~60w in total?
Yup
Typically I only buy 350W power supplies. That way, there's plenty of room if I want to add lights later on.
I plan to have 2/3 100-150cm led strips near my desk and one under my bed later on. The reason Im thinking about the 100w is because my friend still has one from a project that didn't work out and could give it to me
It should be fine for that load.
Just make sure it's the right voltage (ie, if it's a 12V, don't use 5V strips without a buck converter or something like that).
Do 12v strips have any advantage compared to 5v ones? The psu is 12V but I should be able to get some 12Vto5V convertors without an issue
12V allows for longer runs without power injection. 5Vs are cheap, but you'll need to power inject every 4-5m of run, depending on the brightness you are running the strips at.
Plus, buck converters introduce a fail point. If you haven't bought the strips yet, then try to match them to the power supply you have.
So I should just get 12v since their cost would be offset by not having to buy any buck converters?
That's what I would do, yeah.
But, I'm also a 12V snob (it's pretty much all I run lol) ๐
Is it safe to attach something like this to the bottom of my desk? I don't think I would kick it or anything, but my legs cound touch it or something. May just encluse it in a lunch boxhttps://alpha.imageserver.cz/led/product/sylius_shop_product_large_thumbnail/9/4107/2053077.jpg
It should be fine.
It feels like a shame that there's so much nice looking hardware that's cloud/wifi only.
Hello, anybody has experience with integrating Danalock v3 zigbee version with HA?
Anyone have any thoughts on CAT6A mini/slim/thin
From reading online, it seems like plenty of people are just like avoid unless you need to. Plenty of data center focused folks see the downsides and the upsides.
For me, if I can get a 10gigabit line strung in my home, which is probably at best 25-30m with CAT6A slim I'm good. My POE devices would be IP cameras.
Hmm. Yeah. That's kinda my concern. I don't know if I should care though, ugh.
10 Geeb is pretttyyyyy fast
6A, non-mini would be best though eh.
40 has been the norm for quite a few years for end devices
On fibre, sure.
Most are moving to 25g these days because of sfp density compared to qsfp
Fiber yes, copper is basically dead in enterprise except for management
Oh we are talking enterprise, thank god. I was wondering how outdated my home setup was for a second.
Inter switch links have been 100g for 5+ years, now moving to 200g
Rj45 10g .... I can count the number of ports I've seen on 5-10 sets of hands
The limitations in length and density have made it useless for most
Even 40g infrastructure is cheap used now, can probably get 32 port switches for $100ish
Can I power a ESP32 using the microUsb port?
Yes
I was gonna say, I can count how many times I've even heard of 40g on my third hand
I've installed..... Thousands of 40g ports
Eh, 100 Gb isn't that uncommon for the last ... while
And I don't even work with enterprise networks these days ๐
I've done at least 1000 100g uplinks
Not in my house
And I'm in a small country
Honestly, my impression of small countries is that means good internet
I installed probably 600 54Gbit ports this year though
Larger countries
I've done, a couple of 10G installs for small business clients. Feelsgoodman.
$90 a month for 150megabit. Maybe even capped.
I want gigabit. One day. I wonder if I'll see that in my residential area in the next decade.
Wanna come to Aus? I pay AUD$110/month for 100/40 unlimited.
They just installed the fibre lines directly from the exchange into my street through so hopefully in the next year I'll see full residential gigabit.
We have that too. But the street has no schedule for when it's getting done.
Yea, I upgraded to 1000down/50up for ~22usd + ~5usd for a modem
honestly don't even need the 1gig down but I wanted more than 25up
Eww you bought an ISP modem?
Paying for modems ... 
I did that too. I have cable internet just for the better upload.
Literally can not use the internet without it and our TV also runs from it.
But it's set up in a bridge mode and have my own router
I'm amused that my upload speed is meaningfully faster than my FTTC download speed was, on the top package ๐
Is this because they MAC reserve the lines for those specific routers?
I have 1000/1000 fiber from one of the most hated providers in the US (AT&T) for $60/month US. I could bitch about them all day long... but, my service has been rock solid even during hurricanes.
Honestly no idea how it works, but I can't set it up on my own and they have to send someone to install and activate it
I get zero support if I don't use a ISP modem.
ISP support is liking shitting into the wind though
AND soooo stupid.
The only time you need it is for an actual line fault
I used to use a non ISP one and then I'd call in because my internet was fully dead
And I'd have to bust out their modem and swap it in temporarily
Paying for modems? This sounds like murica
And it was dumb, and then they started sending better quality modems with bridge mode and I was like why am I doing this
Here the modem comes with the service, at least on FTTP, and it's just a modem - you get an RJ45 port and need to handle your auth from there
I haven't used a ISP modem since 2004 though, only had gpon since then 
Few months ago my mom was getting exactly 100down even though she's paying for 300down
after 1 angry call, the ISP factory reseted the modem remotly (even though I have done the same thing 3 few hours ago) so I didn't expect anything
Sudenly she has exactly 500down
It's as dumb as it could get and literally just translates, thank god. Technically the modem comes with the house though lol.
500/10 @cloud hull ๐คฃ
500/30, not much better
Yeah, we only get symmetric in big cities
Also 500/500 is literally 5 times the price of 1000/50 and I don't understand why
Hell we barely got fibre until the last few years.
10/10 - 50/50 - 100/100 - 200/200 - 300/300 - 500/500 if memory serves right
2004/2005/2010/2014/2015/2017
Waiting for 1000/1000 now
I had shitty internet the year I lived in Ireland though
Yeah, if you live in the right place in the UK you can get 1000 symmetric ... but it's a rare beast
I think my dad could get 1000/1000 from 2011 forward
Out of curiosity I just checked my ISPs site and they now offer an ultrafast option which differs between 500-1000Mbit down, with a hefty 50 up
I got the offer in 2017, but the current vendor is too expensive
1000/50 lol
I've got 500/70, which isn't a great ratio, but it ain't that bad 
But I love how the prices dropped by ~30-50% after some smaller ISPs started operating in my city
Who's ya ISP?
Zen, but any Openreach backed ISP will do that
My current vendor wants $130 for 1000/1000, I'm waiting for the other one who offers it for $70
Never had static but I've always had 3-8 dynamic ips with dyndns anyways
I get static IPv4 and an IPv6 block, and 500/70, for about 110$AUD
Never had static until the latest ISP but will never go back. No point in the hassle.
Plus my IP is very memorable currently so I don't even need a domain if I didn't want one.
Never been a hassle to me, I've hosted stuff at home since 1999
Never been unreachable with dynamic dns
Yeah, /48 here too, apparently ๐


