#hardware-archived
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lol, ALRIGHT
peeps. I'm looking for a robovac and I am very much lost
anyone knows anything about them?
I want a vac that can navigate properly and have nogo zones
and doesn't cost an arm and a leg
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
handy.
UK based, budget - £300 ish, got about 60sq m of hardwood and tile flooring I CBA to clean, maybe there will be a rug. no pets
features - google home integration preferable, but not mandatory
I was looking at eufy g30 edge, but then found out that Xiaomi can do same stuff without magnetic border strips for 60% of the price
Hi. I did some research end of last year in that price range. I ended up with the Roborock S5 max, which is made by the same company. The whole family has been pretty happy with it. It navigates around most things pretty well and can be taught to stay away from really problematic areas. It has a basic mop function - at that range you don't get really fancy ones. Getting it hooked up to HA is not the easiest thing in the world, because you have a get hold of a secret token. Rugs are ok except for light rugs such as a bathroom mat. The laser navigation system really helps.
Roborock S5 or S6. Flash it (easily) with Valetudo and you have a robot vacuum that isn't connected to any cloud service and integrates nicely with HA.
Thank you!
anybody know if these newer fans that all have remote controls will play nice with smart light switches used by home assistant?
just tried out an AirTag...
thats pretty slick
and the ultra wideband works really well
range isn't huge
...what even is a currently good RGBW bulb right now that works nicely in HA for a U.S. user? I just got a good bunch of RGBW devices secondhand that I had hoped were old enough to take on tuya-convert, but it turns out they're all just beyond the cut. The vast majority of my system is just z-wave switches to control standard bulbs and fixtures, but I have one location where I do want the RGB support...
(Worst is that the 4" flat lights actually have the Realtek chipset in them, so those are really, truly stuck on Tuya's firmware and any delay/cloud control they have)
...the Inovelli Ilumin looked great, but I haven't seen it in stock for months. :/
i have a 8266 + relay board and the 8266 needs to send hex commands to a controller on the relay board.. anyone know where i can find some documentation for this? i saw some references here and there that it is supported via esphome but i can't find where it's documented
Hey - looking to flash my LED strip lights, does tuya-convert still work, or has the patch described on it's GH page killed that for most things?
- branch from that question - is soldering on serial pins the best way now?
...depends if you have had the latest firmware installed on them.
If it's not updated, it may run. It's not too hard to get setup to try the OTA flash and if it doesn't even connect, there's no harm.
ah yeah, "might as well try" makes sense. cheers.
my Shelly DImmer 2 (without neutral) occasionally flickers. It seems totally fine but every hour or so there's a minor flicker from the spots. Anyone else observed this?
I'm looking to pick a NUC to run HA, Plex and connect to external storage. I may have about 50 devices connected to HA but mostly lights etc. nothing intensive like cameras. I'd like to connect the NUC to a 4k TV so I can stream media that way.
my details:
- In the UK
- Budget is up to £400 if needed for the NUC, but the cheaper the better
- I haven't bought any devices yet, but I'm looking at getting around 40 ikea Tradfri lights which I understand are zigbee
- It must have at least 2 USB slots, ethernet and HDMI, anything else is a bonus. Must be able to be used as a network drive and stream 4k to a TV
Open to anything really. Ones I was looking at was the Intel NUC7CJYH at £135 barebones and NUC11TNHi3 barebones at £310
Well, for the HA side you don't need much, something like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002487769084.html would comfortably do you. The rest of it though, that means you want more storage - you really want two drives (eg one M.2 and one SATA)
some of that Mele stuff looks awesome
This looks great, but you're right it'd be best to have the storage slot I suppose. I suppose using an external HD via usb wouldn't be the best idea
Not ideal, but that's the kind of price point you're likely looking at
I am just starting out. I have installed homelab on a raspberry pi and now I want to use this shelly v1 to a ceiling lamp. I'm not sure if I can wire it up so that the existing wall light switch can still be used to send signals to the shelly
oh I can't share pictures here
that's just the store page?
hmm
Your diagram of your lighting is not how I have evry seen lighting done though
i'm not sure if I drew it right.
this is just what i'm assuming based on the wires coming out of the walls at the ceiling and switch
I would expect a lot more wires at the light end
this is a rental apartment
maybe there are more wires buried in that plastic thing in the ceiling
probably
underneath the white paint stuff
If you can find the extra wires by your light fitting you should be fine. You wold need the Neutral and a Line to power the shelly and then the wire from your switch would be the signal to the shelly.
if you want to use the SHelly1 which requires neutral, you gotta dig a big hole in your ceiling to access the wiring up there
or get a shelly1L or shelly dimmer 2
both of which can sit in your switch and work from there without a neutral wire
I think if you do as @frozen arrow sugests you will need to ad a bypass at the light end also.
and if you use low wattage LED bulb you need to wire a bypass at the light
Are there motion sensors that can ignore small objects? Our cat loves to sprint around the flat at night and I don't want light turning on randomly
anything below 10 watts I think
Bosch ones have a "pet" mode
I already have a shelly v1 so that's what I'm going to try with first. I guess I need access to the brown wire in the ceiling. I hope it's in there
I could just put the shelly inside the lamp fixture
Hope the wires are easy to get to 🙂
I got it off and there is a brown wire inside there 😄
yes haha
So the brown is likely the line (guessing european from the pics). One of the blacks at the light will be the neutral and the other black will be the switched line from the switch. So you have all you need to wire in the shelly at the light end 🙂
Have fun. I only just started using shelly's and they seem really nice.
you are right! One of the black wires is blue inside the box, just extended in the fixture with a short piece of black wire
thanks for the help
there is white ceiling powder stuff everywhere now. I guess that's the price you have to pay. This will be a cool system once setup
All the best with it 🙂
Hey does anyone that uses Sonoff's SZNB-02 sensors to get temp/humidity values happens to know how precise they are? I was thinking about buying one of them to monitor my small terrace greenhouse's temp/humidity values. I don't need very precise measurements but I'd like to have a good understanding of the internal climate of it. If you have any suggestion for any other sensor for this use case scenario I'd gladly listen! I should probably add that I already have a ConBee II so I'd prefer anything compatible with it! Thank you
Aqara zigbee temp/humidity sensors seem quite good but only send updates on "significant" change. Trying to figure what "significant" is at the mo and also how acurate they are compared to ds1820's (spec sheet says they are more accurate). They are certainly easy to use and so far (2-3 days in they seem reliable).
I've found the Aqara to be pretty solid
I get updates with changes of 0.1C or every 20 minutes or so
Any feeling about accurancy vs other things Tinkerer ?
Hard to say TBH, compared to my Aeotec (Z-Wave) sensor it's about the same - could be reporting plus or minus half a degree
The Aeotec is up in the ceiling, the Aqara is at desk level
I can get up to 2 deg difference between the Aqara and a ds1820 when both are within about 5cm of eachother. Trying to figure out how to tell which (if any) is correct.
Well, that's easy enough 😉
There's standard methods for calibrating thermometers, use one of those
Well I would chuck them in some boiling water but at least one of them would stop working 🙂
I guess the ds1820 would be fine so I could at least put that in boiling water and then ice. If I know that one is right or wrong I guess I have some level of answer.
I considered the Aqara sensor too but I can't decide between it and the Sonoff tbh. The Sonoff is cheaper at the moment on Amazon Italy (the Aqara is having a price spike at 40€ rn which is insane), while the Sonoff is like 17€. If it's accurate enough and its update rate is good I'd go with the Sonoff.
The #zigbee-archived channel can give you feedback on any Zigbee device - many of the Sonoff ones have been found lacking though
Ok thank you I'll try to ask on that channel then 👍
Jasco Zigbee Outlet Receptacle with Energy Monitoring, Tamper-Resistant, Pairs Directly with Echo 4th Gen/Echo Show 10/Echo Studio/Echo Plus/Eero Pro 6, 1 Controlled + 1 Always On, White, 43132 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G58HVL5/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_B769B5RE0K8Q6PJRJD50
Hi all, has anyone try this outlet (Jasco Zigbee Outlet Receptacle with Energy Monitoring)
It seems a little overpriced so if anyone has a comparable outlet please let me know
@orchid nebula I got the Aqara for about $10 each on aliexpress, bit more if you only had 1 but a lot les than your quoting from wherever you saw it.
Anyone know of a washing machine that integrates well with home assistant, and doesn't require a cloud service to do so (local API)?
Does homeassistant run on a raspberry pi?
It can run on one
A Pi3 or better anyway
You can run it on a wide range of better hardware though 😄
and how is z-wave and zigbee implemented on that?
Through USB sticks, or other adaptors
ok! thx for the swift answers 🙂
the thing is, I work for a hardware company who makes home automation devices, now only work in a standalone way with an App. But we are looking to integrate it with larger ecosystems like google home, alexa, homekit etc. Would home assistant be a good choice for this you think?
It's an open source product that's constantly evolving, that's a risk management decision you have to make
I'd suggest that supporting well known protocols would be a good idea - such as Zigbee, and optionally things like the new project CHIP
well we think opensource is just a good thing, we want to give that integration away for free so we are not dealing with support and stuff like that
so the community can make the integrations if they like
MQTT is pretty universally supported though, so if you support that then you'll be able to work with a wide range of products
our device only works with bluetooth low energy, so basically its just a matter of writing to the device. The home assistant would just work as a bridge in that case
There is BLE support already for some things, so if the details are published somebody could create a Python library that HA, and others, can use
You may want to ask the developers in #developers if you're thinking of working with them for future support
I recently received a Konke zigbee PIR sensor. I have been unable to pair it with my Sonoff zigbee controller. Has anybody been able to do that pairing? I have set up for zigbee channel 15 but I do not know how to confirm that since the Konke can only work on channels 15/20/25.
Morn all, I'm currently on netgear infrastructure for my home network, each room has a network point cabled to my cabinet in the study which is where the main fiber lands, I have a netgear Gigabit sl24 port switch and a netgear R8000 router, in each room I have a WAC104, 10 of them cover wireless throughout the house, I'm looking to change to ubiquity, I see they have cams as well, will prob go for dream machine pro, for now the wac 104's can stay but will get some ubiquity ap's eventually, what's everyone experience with the ubiquity kit, I have armor and circle parental control on netgear, from wlmy research ubiquity seem to provide similar stuff? I like the fact that I can use the cams I assume they integrate into hassos and so does ubiquity from what I've seen. Is it good kit, any comments negative or positive?
Hi guys, I'm searching for a good capture card. I have 2 purposes: so I can use a Chromecast or something similar on my pc (unless there are better ways to get Chromecast functionality on Debian) and to get Ambilight using Hyperion. What capture card do you recommend me to buy? If you think of a better way to set this up, please feel free to say so.
I use a cheap 9$ hdmi usb capture adapter, 1080p is enough for my hue sync experience 🙂
For Hyperion, it probably is, but I don't think it is for Chromecast
Is there a way to make a reproductor smart? Something like a chromecast audio since that isn't a thing anymore for some reason
Honestly, I'd avoid Ubiquity if you aren't already in their ecosystem. There are far better economical choices and their track record over the past year has been BAD. Further, they seem to be adopting the idea of marking their products EOL (end of life) 2-3 years after the product releases. I'm currently using the TP-Link Omada gear and it's been working fairly well with a couple of hiccups here and there.
hello, I am considering adding some basic stuff like thermometers to my HA. Preferably wifi-based. Are there any premade thermometers that I could just add to my HA (I'm using container BTW)
I found some xiaomi stuff, but they are either sensors without display or zigbee-based which limits the range
i think the best option would be es2866 + dht22 but Im open to suggestions
Hi All, general question so may be in wrong room, but its about firestick 4k ethernet connection dropouts. Ive noted that on my dashboard my firestick keep showing unavailable even if its in use. haveing looked at it i note that the Ethernet connection has dropped and the firestick is continuing to work on wifi (is issues seen on firestick) but as its now on wifi ip my home assistant doesn't see it. ive tried to forget wifi, then it just looses net as no fall back. the ethernet route is using an avoid driving fast card usb2.0 to connect to tp link powered splitter (thats also serving laptop and hive hubs fine) and thats going via powerline to router. the fast card is even now blinkning away as if sending data with orange on perm and green flashing but on router/firestick it shows not connected, i cant ping it and if i look in router logs i see this when i stopped working LAN [DEL] ARP 192.168.1.209
Hey @next island , did you ever get your Flume water monitor working? I'm also curious what communication protocol the device uses to communicate to the bridge. 915 MHz, is it LoRaWAN? I'm also curious if you can connect additional LoRaWAN devices to the flume bridge
I'm just using the cloud based integration for now. Not even the indoor WiFi bridge is locally accessible, unfortunately.
Would it be better to get a dumb alarm siren and connect it to a WiFi plug that I can control with home assistant
Or just get a tuya WiFi alarm and flash (hopefully) Tasmota on it
I emailed their support about the RF. " The Flume bridge uses a proprietary protocol in the 915 range and it cannot be used to connect to other devices."
too bad
it would be neat to have a LoRaWAN bridge
May any body tell me how can I use my 2 pin pizeo buzzer as a security alarm. I am using gpio oin of nodemcu esp8266 . I want to controll it from a push button
Like when i press button. Buzzer rings.
Does anyone know how to make RFXCOM send (433Mhz) switch control signals for COCO RG2 type mains plugs? These come with a choice of 4 'home' values (A-D) and 4 unit values (1-4) each of which has an on/off. I have a hand controller so I can capture the signals sent, but can't figure out how to wrap these up so HA can send them via RFXCOM. In Domoticz it was easy - just set up a manual switch, type COCO RG2, select A4 or B3 or whatever, and you had an on/off switch object. In HA I can't figure out a way at all.
Do you guys think a HP ProDesk 600 G2 Mini with Intel Core i5-6500T (6th gen) would be powerful enough to run Blueiris and deepstack for like 4 to 5 8MP cameras like The Hook up's video today? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLH9GEcdb9Y&t=929s
#cameras-archived would probably know more
My house has a video intercom, SY806. I'm wondering if there's any way I can get it hooked into home assistant (or any upgrade path that'd allow me to do that)
Edit: Link to manual https://download.chinavasion.com/download/CVYH-J130.pdf
Looks like a closed wire system, so you might be able to #diy-archived it. I'd post there.
thanks, will do
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/c-by-ge-on-off-smart-plug-white/6331745.p?skuId=6331745
does this work with home assistant? it's a smart plug (C by GE - On/Off Smart Plug)
Supposedly there's some custom component support for C by CE, but it's very limited and I've not seen many have success with it. There's MUCH better choices for smart plugs.
okay, i'll pass on this one, then. 🙂 better choices such as?
WiFi? Zigbee? Z-Wave? Pick your poison. 😄
(As in, which protocol do you want to use?)
i only have a zigbee adapter/hub, so i guess it would have to be wifi. BUT..if there's a benefit to going zigbee/z-wave, like less heat or the wall plug will be less prone to burning my house down, i'll do it.
Well, most plugs that I know of are fairly safe, but depending on where you are in the world, Tuya plugs are good as are Sonoffs (after you flash them with either ESPHome or Tasmota). For Zigbee, Aqara plugs are really good along with Centralite plugs (bonus Z-Wave repeater built-in). Osram/Smart+ are also really good as well.
There are benefits to Zigbee over Wifi: The biggest being that depending on your networking equipment, you're limited to around 30-50 devices. Zigbee, you could go into the hundreds (depending on the coordinator you choose).
may be a silly question, but would a relay audibly click even with nothing attached to it? trying to test a relay board but i dont have anything connected to it..
you mean without a load?
yes
it doesn't matter whether it's actually switching anything
ty
Does anyone know any rgbw or rgb CCT ceiling led panel that works with home assistant?
I've found the milight ones so far but even if the integration is local the bridge doesn't seem to report the light state so it's 'assumed state' which I'd rather avoid
Any other option?
Any Zigbee one would be a good choice - see the list of known working hardware in the pinned messages over in #zigbee-archived
Anyone recommend a zigbee keypad? I saw with the most recent update they work with ZHA!
if only i could find some for sale somewhere lol
You're right... lol doh. Sorry. To be fair, I have only ever used that one.
I am sure we'll see more options out there sooner than later.
Looking for recommendations for WRGB color A19 bulb (zigbee or wifi) that work well with HASSIO
Good day all
I Have a Sonoff RF bridge that I flashed with tasmota. When I go to the console it does not show me the codes of the sensors I want to see so that I can configure them in home assistant
any ideas?
I have set up node red to display the codes also. That gives me a open code but no close code
it is a Sonoff DW2-RF sensor
Is it worth spending the extra money on getting the 8GB raspberry pi or is the 4GB enough? Bearing in mind I have a 800sqft apartment and have roughly 20 devices?
At the price point of a pi4 it isn't worth it at all is my opinion 🤣
What would be a good alternative? I'm only just starting to get into home assitant as I want to be more hands off and have more automations
sonoff dualr3 if you want to stick to the same brand
Is there anything as off the shelf straightforward as sonoff but for 12v? Or is it #diy-archived territory?
Also can any of the sonoffs that do power metering take the temperature probe also?
for 12v?
Sorry, no. Two separate questions! 😆
Anyone got an extension cord switch (for patio string lights) that’ll work with home assistant?
There is a sonoff 12V (Sonoff SV)
@grave prairie In Tasmota, Configure Module => Module type
set it up as Sonoff Bridge first
Go to Logging and configure all 3 Logging levels to 2 or 3, then you will be able to see the RFCode on console
Its best to get a door sensor with 2 different values for open and close state
Hey folks, just moved into a house with 8 cameras, they are all anologue, it has a DVR, but it's only usable in internet explorer with a plugin, or a mobile app. I tried wiresharking the packets and it doesn't recognise them, tried googling, etc... I think there's no good way to get the video stream out of this thing.
So I am curious what people think, should I just grab another anologue DVR? The camera quality seems pretty good, and running cables for IP cameras is of course going to be a nightmare.
Hi. I bought myself Sonoff SNZB-03 motion sensor for testing - wanted to see how they work in HA. Is it normal for this device (or maybe those type of devices) to wait 60s after there's no movement detected?
Yes
If you search you'll see a lot of folks posting about their (not very good) experiences of those over in #zigbee-archived
ok, thanks. I will look for that then.
its working until it stops, then you have to re-pair it 😛
The best approach ever! 
Anyway I see now that there's a lot of issue with it...sigh...and here I thought that would be good device for testing. 😉
Xiaomi 4 lyfe
they also eat up batteries and they use the harder to get ones
i had some in testing and the motion sensor was in a kitchen so it had a lot of triggers, only 3 months of battery time
extra $$ for xiaomi is worth it, but there are other options
mine's a year in in the dining room
Yeah, the non modded ones have almost 2 years so far
Have a 50usd Aliexpress cupon I have to spend soon and want to spend it on making my room smart. I'm living with my grandpa who doesn't want many smart things in the shared space, so what would be nice to have for 1 bedroom/workroom
Currently have only a pi4 running HA and a smart lamp, but want to get more smart things
Many options there
Light sensor so you can control when the light turns on automatically
Window sensor plus temperature sensor for close the window it's too cold/hot outside
Motion and door sensor for room occupancy detection
I usually have my door at least open because of our cat, which would also invalidate the motion detector if I understand how they work correctly.
Is there a cat-proof room cocupancy detection?
i solved it by banning the cat in the house 😛
Hey all! Quick question, I have HA runnin on Hyper-V which as the documentation noted didnt have USB passthorugh support. Is there a way to use something like this http://www.usb-over-network.com/usbnet-solutions/virtual.html to pass the USB over network?
What USB device, and what integration?
(short answer is, not with that install method, but there may be other solutions)
Hi all. I know I am probably person #9,999,999 to ask for recommendations, but I'm hoping someone has a recommendation for a reliable US smart-plug that wouldn't ever talk outside my home network. I don't mind soldering to flash tasmota, but I'm not very good at it so I'd like to avoid the more challenging hardware modding. It doesn't have to be fancy or shiny, and doesn't need to do anything beyond toggling power on and off remotely. I don't want to spend a fortune, but I'll pony up a bit more than the bare minimum if it means getting a good product.
Alternatively, if there are other lists of products similar to this one ( https://templates.blakadder.com/plug.html ) or lists of reputable recommendations, then that works for me too.
Thanks for any help.
Or, another alternative, if you have a good explanation of how to do my own research and find something myself, that would probably be best really. I don't know where to look and what to look for when deciding if it's unflashable tuya garbage or if it's the holy grail of inexpensive, well built, and compatible without having to just buy it and find out myself.
There are ZigBee alternatives too
If only power on and off and no power monitoring a your choices are endless
Are they endless? I'm really only doing this for a family member and any plugs they have pulled off the top of the amazon search results on their own (without consulting me first 😠) have been fantastically junk.
I'll take a look for myself, but if you don't mind giving me a rundown, what're the big pros and cons of zigbee?
In the context of smart-plugs those are probably not very relevant, or are they?
As long as this doesn't awaken some desire to smart-ify my entire home I guess, then maybe fancy features will matter.
Yes they are very relevant
Ah I think I understand, zigbee devices get to behave as repeaters for their own wireless protocol. So a plug can become part of a mesh without much fussing. Seems interesting. I'll look into it more and take my questions to the relevant channel if and when I have them.
Yes
pimoroni's hyperpixel touch display on a pi makes a great smart thermometer interface https://owncloud.defsdoor.org/index.php/apps/files_sharing/publicpreview/7fnMi3KJE56DZHm?x=1391&y=761&a=true&file=20210507_211230.jpg&scalingup=0
only problem is cannot adjust brightness of backlight - its either on or off
But that could be achieved with a small oled display, a rotary encoder and two buttons of your choice, and no need to get welder eyes every time you want to do something
you have example of this ?
do you have pictures ?
oh I thought you'd done this
I have a stack of pi3s and and couple of these screens - seems a better option to use what i have
I just want to check - a new install (or, reverting a snapshot) shouldn't mean I have to wait over an hour for it to boot right? What hardware should I really be running HASS on to make it restart/reboot within a 10 minute timeframe?
that's a very low bar
I didn't mean core only - I just meant from power off to power on lol
I currently just run it off a network cable on a RPI4 with a USB stick... so I can't imagine why it should be that slow
i have a J3455 running around 30 docker containers, takes a few minutes for everything to be up
bumps head on table okayyyy
ha core fully restarts in under 30 seconds
Maybe I should just go and buy a cheap computer and be done with this and save my RPI4 for flashing stuff then...
Hmm yeah, I just don't know why mine just takes forever... just a core reboot is fine (I do that in supervisor seems to be done in 30 seconds, but then I went to revert a snapshot because the 5.1 didn't play very well, and then well... it's been an hour lol I don't know if I should power it off mid way and try again right now if it fails even more dramatically)
Alright, thanks 😄 It might just be my crappy setup then. I'll work on it. Thanks for your help 🙂
An hour to start HA on a RPi4 seems way excessive; a properly functional Pi4 with a high quality SD card and decent passive cooling can build a full Linux kernel in that time....
you mention USB storage; and flash drives can very super widely in quality and performance
are you using a brand-name SD card and usb stick? if yes, do you know if they are rated class10 / UHS 1 or better for performance?
Sonoff S31 with Tasmota. You can flash these via serial w/o soldering by using IC test clips as the serial testpoints are in line along the edge of the mcu PCB.
Thanks - yes, I was just using a standard USB stick (ie. flash drive, but at least, ... should be faster than the microsd that came bundled with the RPI4 when I bought it). In the end, I powered it off and on again and it booted in within 10 minutes.
interesting, and keep in mind that the USB controllers are shared interfaces (therefore if you have high bandwidth local USB peripherals, uSD might be faster)
Got it 🙂
my kernel build reference point was on a 4GB pi4 using a sandisk extreme pro (UHS3 rated) uSD
There's nothing connected except that USB stick right now so ... I've only used the HASS for 2 days so forgive me if I sound completely satisfied with 1 hour start times originally hey haha 😄
no worries, thats how you learn: takes time and experiences
That dev one I started from using the dev docs yesterday started even faster - which was baffling. But that's another discussion for another channel unfortunately :S
and you rpi install is hassos or supervised?
hassos
(HA core user myself for about ~3 yrs)
scaled to the point of running on Xeon D series and federated to a handful of RPis over mqtt
^ nice way to scale and keep your reload time fast
300-350 depending on time of year
Alright then lol that probably explains why that is then
and how much i expose to HA vs abstract behind other tools
When I get to that amount of devices... I'll be sure not to be running off a USB stick then
😆
honestly i could likely run across 2 Pi4's for the databases/mqtt broker and HA Core respectively
Why separate them out like that?
distributing the CPU load and memory use
example: mariadb or postgres need substantial RAM and compute time to plan and execute queries
however the query itself and the response is rather small (therefore little overhead to transfer over a 1G network link)
Hmmmm for a moment I thought the database file IO is the bottleneck over time...
I see, thanks 😄
that then keeps all cores free to run HA core on the 2nd pi
and if you have compute-heavy plugins like img processing enabled
same with mqtt: let another machine handle the fanout/replication
HA core sends/receives one copy, then broker replicates and sends potentially to 50+ subscribers
I wish somebody has the time to write about all of these fancy stuff of making the ha more scalable on their website... but there's so many ways to skin a cat it'll probably stink
yeah good friend of mine runs on Kubernetes :0
as in his own Kubernetes cluster, not public cloud
Oh I see, that's a whole different learning curve.
In the meantime, I have... 1 raspberry pi, and 1 switch, which doesn't work with hass lol
give it time lol
Wrote a custom_component for it, worked for a day.
oh nice, custom components too
It probably was what contributed to the 20 minute wait time originally - had to pull a modified dependency from github coz I didn't know how to get it on there without doing a formal PR...
Eh.
But like I said, it worked for a day (1 out of 2 days lol), and then I accidentally hit the upgrade to 5.1 , and then now I cannot get it working again reverting back to 4.6
shrugs eh. Gotta take the kids out
lol thanks for the insight, I'll think about the API side later, that might be possible, but not likely. API hasn't changed for a year
bbs 🙂
yeah i keep meaning to chase down an issue with the velux component, might look at that; nice talking.
(if the connection fails it hangs HA on stop/restart)
Hey, I'm looking for a hardware to monitor the moisture in soil for a plant. I saw the Xiaomi Mi Flora, but I feel like it's huge for my application. Are there known good devices that have a smaller footprint? I can do without the light/temp sensors as well. Got them covered otherwise
I recall Grove have a few soil sensors...
https://www.seeedstudio.com/Grove-Moisture-Sensor.html , which probably means needing I2C...
Oh wait... smaller footprint, sorry, that isn't small - it still requires you to plug it into a board... sorry
Also, I would think the sensors need to go deep enough to actually get you anything useful - the worse thing is it doesn't go deep enough and then you end up watering the plant because the top is dry but the bottom is still soggy.
So looking at the Mi Flora, the size doesn't look too bad to me! 😮
uhh, I have a couple esp32 and other stuff here
I meant physical volume. Maybe footprint was a bad word. So this looks interesting to me
I have a bonsai pot here. It's maybe 5ish centimeters deep total
and that one's not even I2C, it's analog, cool. The capacitive one that's linked probably is.
I'd still need some case to shield the electronics, but then I can put a couple wires from there to the esp, and hide most the uglyness out of sight
I have a Shelly 1 that I flashed with Tasmota a few years ago. I'd like to flash it back to the original firmware. I found a bin file at www.shelly-support.eu to restore the Shelly firmware. The site claims to be an official support forum for Shelly, but the Shelly website has not links or references to that site. Is it legit?
Maybe this is the wrong channel. Flashing Tuya devices, i've got to new firmware to flash with OTA Tuya-convert. I guess it's specific to every device how they're flashed without the OTA?
basic principle is the same: connect rx,tx, gnd and power, put it in flash mode, flash
Can anyone recommend a decent DVR suitable for AHD cameras? Ideally wants proper browser support (so I don't have to use ie6) and rtsp or something so I can get the video feed out. Also available in UK for delivery some time this millenia
hey there, time to time, like after 10 minutes if both line is on, my shelly25 decide to turn both line. But in a funny way
- first turns both off
- then one on
- then off that one again
I checked if only one is turned it it is fine, also if the HA rpi is off, it is also works fine.
any idea where is the trick?
There was few entrys disabled, I enabled a few, and I think that solved it.
What are some recommended buttons for Zigbee? Preferably cheap and must be non-permanent install
or battery run
https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Xiaomi_WXKG01LM.html is imo the best button
I want one that's really cheap and small
I have a Lutron aurora dimmer that mounts over a dumb switch. I have gotten it paired, but it seems that only the rotary dimmer sends events to HA. When I click the button that is supposed to toggle the light, I get no event. Is this normal or do I have a defective unit?
I have a smartthings button (made by samjin. It’s about the size of a half-dollar coin. I really like it, but the xiaomi one has more button functions.
OH
Thats pretty cheap!
I also have some Sengled Switches... I bought the HUB by SENGLED, but it seems it doesn't work well with Home-ASsistant
will the SENGLED Switches be able to control lightbulbs that are on WIFI?
even though the sengled switches are zigbee?
If you're using HA, yes
sweet 🙂
I should have bought Zigbee bulbs 😦
But I got tempted by Costco's FEIT Bulbs..
And the issue is, that the more devices I add to my router's 2.4ghz band, the more it degrades the bandwidth
because of airtime
Anyone else simply not trust Smart Locks?
Even with local control, I just can't bring myself to even entertain the idea of a Smart Lock...
I think that someone who wants to get into your house is going to kick in the door, break a window, pick the lock before they hack your smart lock
It’s not so much a matter of trust, but risk
what should i be looking for on a NUC? I want to have home assistant and some other stuff running off of it. I know an SSD and like 8GB RAM would be nice
My two cents, smart lock is actually vastly more secure. Physical keys can be easily stolen (it only requires a photo) and are then hard to change/revoke (have to call a locksmith and get the locks changed, and give everyone new keys). A smart lock allows you to quickly revoke keys. Attack vector is pretty small if you set your stuff up properly (I'm a big fan of local only). Like RobC said, a window is a much easier target than hacking your smart lock. I'd also say that nabbing a photo of your key is a lot easier than hacking a smart lock, and most smart locks have key fallback anyway. Or just straight up pick the lock, which is again gonna be easier.
Hey guys, is there anyone experienced with circuit/electronics stuff here, and is this the right place to ask for advice with it?
Sounds like you want #diy-archived
Can anyone tell me if this plan is good, and if so recommend me some light switches? I'm in the UK, I'm hoping to get ones that are Zigbee and act as repeaters so I can start installing other zigbee devices like the Xiaomi Aqara door sensors around the house. Would be nice if the switches supported dimming.
hi guys, I'm planning on attempting to make my first DIY for my roller shutters
I've heard good things about the shelly 2.5
if I manually alter the position of the shutter with a non-smart switch, the position will still be updated in HA, won't it?
is there a good zigbee alternative for the shelly 2.5?
I believe diy chat will be better than here.. sorry
I'm not so much concerned about someone hacking the lock... so much as I am worried about there being a firmware bug that could cause the lock to unlock at the wrong time.
With a physical lock, I ONLY have to worry about whether or not I remembered to actually lock the lock. I DONT have to worry about it mysteriously unlocking itself.
There are TONS of incidents where people have reported IoT things "activating" on their own due to a bug.
Well, this situation is solved with automations very easily.
anyone know how to get the camera on an android tab to detect motion so you don't have to have a frontend tablet on all the time?
even to dim it?
is anyone aware of an RGB + CCT controller with the following features?
- Home Assistant local integration
- external switch support
- WiFi, zigbee or z-wave (wifi preferred)
Essentially a Shelly RGBW2 with one more channel. Bonus points if it supports higher power, higher pwm frequency (Shelly is at 400 Hz).
the only product that fits all needs is a quinled-deca but it's a diy board and I was looking for an off the shelf product if possible
Closest I know of are the Gledopto controllers, but they don't have external switch support - of course you can control them through HA
Yeah I really like having a pin to connect to a switch for physical backup in case HA is down
I guess an option is a zigbee switch paired to the light
trying to install debian for HA on a Acepc minipc with a celeron chip
but the usb keyboard stops working as soon as it gets to the boot menu
works fine in bios
I thought this stuff stopped happening in 2014
Any solid recommendations on a zigbee hub and door/window sensors to go along? Preferably local
All zigbee is local @drifting grove
Especially with zigbee2mqtt or zha
But #zigbee-archived knows more
@frozen arrow wireless or wired?
this is wired USB
I tried a few bios options but legacy usb was actually enabled which was how I fixed this problem before
Tried another usb port?
Any suggestions for an affordable zigbee or wifi power monitor that can deal with 40A 220V (car charger) ?
I would just buy a smart car charger 
Smart car charger......over here in freedom land we call that gas.
flaunts in 60%+ of cars sold being EV
Hmmmm, I never looked at the data the car can provide . I will do that first but the question still remains for other applications.
I'm guessing that's not single phase?
It is standard single phase North American power. You are probably referring to the standard 110V outlet which is a split phase .... but still only single phase.
Thinking this over, I guess I don't need it to be zigbee, it can also be wifi
Well, knowing it's North America will help people advise you 😉
I keep forgetting that there is more to the world than my little corner 🙂
That's a common oversight
(which is why it's mentioned in the pinned message nobody reads)
tried all 3. Eventually out of desperation grabbed the ubuntu installer and it worked just fine :/
What pinned message 🙂 Is there a pinned message? Didn't know that .....
top right of the channel window
📌

Ok ok .... I guess the smiley face wasn't enough of a hint that my comment was tongue in cheek
You'd be unsurprised to realise how many oblivious people we get here...
I must admit that sometimes I too fall into the 'oblivious' category. My excuse is old age and a brain that is all thunk out over the years 😦

why use an ssd for HA with a raspberry pi.
Whats the advantages?
SD cards have a lifespan of not very much
So, do you want to use something that has a known, short, lifespan? Or would you rather use something that has a lifespan of longer than the Pi?
Yeah i have had a few cards die on me in the past. Got annoying
SSD is hopefully going to give me better stability
today I saw some home automation hardware ("from smart lights to smart doorbells) from "Kruidvat", it's pretty new. And I was wondering if anyone here has experience with it and if it can be integrated into HA, now or in the future?
Kruidvat’s products also work via the Tuya platform and the WiFi protocol
If it can be TuyaConverted then yes, if not it'll probably work with the Tuya #integrations-archived
very nice, gonna go check them out then.
thank you for your constant help, support and information in this discord Tinkerer
Which is cloud based
that's... less ideal...
okay cool, gonna watch out for someone to figure out how to do that, as I've never done anything like that. and don't think I have the skills or knowledge to figure out.
Go Zigbee, it's a better choice than WiFi 😄

yeah probably, I'm still experimenting with all sorts of stuff while I'm living with my parents. once I get to live on my own and have some disposable income I'll definitely go Zigbee or something like it.
Zigbee is usually cheaper than WiFi
the whole reason I asked about these things is because they're so cheap, < 8 euro for an RGB lamp 10 bucks for a door/window sensor 9 for a smart plug. I've not seen many smart home devices that are that cheap...
Localtuya is local
I have an out door loud speaker hooked up to an amp, I want to play security sounds through it if a trespasser is noticed on one of my cameras (Unifi Protect setup an entity in HA for motion events that I can pull a trigger from). The amp is nowhere near my server running HA. Is there a don't need to constantly admin wifi or PoE device that I can just drop an audio file to and then fire off an action to play through an automation?
I don't want to have to run another rpi on my network that needs to be admined by me.
I was thinking a Chromecast audio, but I've noticed having HA connect to it through an automation can sometimes be finicky.
Hi All i have 50 of these https://templates.blakadder.com/arlec_ALD092RHA.html are they still flashable via soldering. If so is there an up to date guide to do this for this item as ill need to see what hardware is needed (I have a PI if needed)
oh to add im doing this because the down lights show in google/tuya app but i can see in home assistant
err cant
Ready to use custom firmware for ESP8266 devices (including Sonoff)
Docs:
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/
Discord:
https://discord.gg/Ks2Kzd4
I'd ask the experts on Tasmota over there
Thank you will do
Hi guys, could you please recommend a device to communicate with modbus rtu? I've got either USB or Ethernet option of connecting the device. Thank you!
Hey guys,
Can you recommend me a din rail mountable hardware?
wifi or zigbee both okay, and it needs to turn on and off some stuff.
Maybe dimming, and enegy monitoring.
maybe one with multiple switch
hello 😄
I think I (will) have a hardware issue.
I have a Yeelight bulb, I control it with the HA android app.
I have a normal wall switch, and of course each time, I switch it off and then I ask myself why the yeelight is not answering ... (I'm sure it happens to all of us at some point ^^).
I have many zigbee things in my home, so I'm looking for replacing that normal wall switch with a zigbee one. But here's my problem: If i switch off this new zigbee switch, can I keep the yeelight powered ? (If the switch cut the power, I can't control the light on it's own).
I just want the switch to send the action to HA, and i'll configure what it will do (probably switch off the yeelight).
I know I can achieve that with switches that are on battery, but I want a wall switch with a 230v line.
Are there any switches that are doing what I want to do ? or they always open/close with no alternative ?*
I hope it's clear 😅
you can if the zigbee switch support decoupling the toggle from the relay
battery switches only send messages to your HA, the bulbs power has nothing to do with it
That's it , i'm looking for a zigbee switch support decoupling the toggle from the relay.
this one seems perfect: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/QBKG12LM.html
thanks a lot !
If it fits in your electrical box
Hi in browsing past threads I see several comments suggesting that one will eventually want to move to a PC or NUC vs Odroid or Pi to run HA. Can anyone elaborate why they believe that?
Because single board computers lack the horsepower and stability of their bigger counterparts. Especially when you start adding other add-ons (or containers).
The SD card on a Pi dies. It's just how soon
Beyond that, you're comparing a pedal bike and electric pedal bike with a car...
Also, don't think that means you have to buy a new PC. I'm running HA on an 8 year old i5 laptop
(the same laptop also runs Zigbee2MQTT and a few other things)
Ok. I have a server rack (but no servers yet!) so may look into 1u options.
(Used)
Any of those should be amazing by comparison to a Pi
The only consideration is that you'll need to put the Z-Wave and/or Zigbee stick outside the rack, on a USB extension cord (but you want to do that anyway), or run them on something elsewhere
If you're going Zigbee then https://www.tubeszb.com/product/cc2652_coordinator/1 is an excellent option since you can stick it local. The creator is working on a PoE version of that too, for those that like things to be just so
Question - Did anyone order one of those ODroid-N2 Home Assistant bundles from Ameridroid way back when?
battery powered multisensor that doesn't suck?
Square aqara temp humidity and pressure sensor
Hi Guys, a question for you, this seems like a rebranded tuya device, do you know which one could it be?
Maybe you need a zigbee network that doesn't suck ;)
you're not wrong 😂
It's not a tuya rebranded device, it is a tuya device
yeah i figured as much, but im looking at the store link, it says it has the GSE brand, but it works with tuya
i figured I had to reverse look for it to see the original model
to figure out if it works with HA
here at my country i've found a lot of "re boxed" items if, if you will, sold under a different brand
but i cant figure out the original model by reverse looking for the image
would a sensor like this work with HA?
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002193132571.html
You can go to tuya website and order a bunch of similar items with your brand and different specs
That sensor probably not now but if someone deciphers the BLE protocol it could
Why is the original model relevant?
so i can look at the right documentation to add it to HA? I could be wrong, im such a HA noob
I have a Baldwin lock like this:
Claim is it works with SmartThings, Wink, communicates via Zwave.
I saw some older threads complaining about Baldwin and something called Kevo but not sure if it’s the same model.
Would anyone know of this lock would work with HA and what integration I should use?
and what about outdoor temp/hig zigbee sensors? any recomendations?
You seem to be wrong
well thats why im asking, so what do you suggest?
You need to know how you plan to integrate it in HA first
You need to know how you plan to integrate it in HA first
Outdoors rated.. none
you're right, shouldnt i get then the correct device info so I can look or the proper info about it?
Well, if it's Z-Wave then the #zwave-archived channel would be the place to ask, and there's only one choice these days there 😄
Cause this is the thing i get from the local store and vendor https://www.instagram.com/p/COagPr4hxTl/ @zealous dune
And where does a list of devices supported by HA exist so you can look up the how-to details?
i dont know if you're trying to help of just challenging me into something...
im just looking for help, not to get into an argument man
I was trying to help but you seem insistent on your way so I was curious how you plan to achieve that
well, first i was going to do what I've been doing, google home assistant and the model of the device, so i get the instructions on how to integrate them with home assistant
but if I google the model advertised on that site, i get nothing
for instance
that thing is branded different here, i've learned that is actually the broadlink rm mini
and i can get it to work with HA right of the box
but then i've learned that doesnt have RF, just IR, i need RF to integrate the ACs and fan ceilings at home
And the other one is Tuya
So you need to decide how you plan to integrate a Tuya device in Home Assistant
yes, i suppose, but im unsure of how it works, whats the model, or how exactly integrate it into home assistant
i've been actually going at HA for a weekend at most
Tuya devices don't care about models
thats good to know because i've even found tuya light switches here, rebranded of course
maybe im not using the correct word since i dont speak english, reboxed into something else maybe?
idn
No, it's just a Tuya device
oh i get it now
There is no Tuya brand that can be rebranded
oooh i get it now
Devices have brands and they work with Tuya
i had it wrong the whole time
Some brands try to hide that fact
so i guess there must be like some sort of tuya hub app and a tuya cloud right?
or have i got it wrong again xD?
You're correct this time
so i should focus then, as you said, on tuya integration with HA
wow it seems i've found a load of tuya devices here, no more importing stuff
I apologize if this is the wrong place to ask, wasn't sure where else to post.
I have several 5v devices (Google Home Mini, WEMOS, NodeMCU, etc...) that are mounted in my ceiling. I currently power them w/ 5v buck converters (~50v DC input -> 5v 3a output), they are powered from a 24v 3a power supply currently.
I've added a couple new devices and now my Google Home Mini will reboot when playing music at higher volume levels, so I assume the power supply can't keep up.
My question is how many 5v 2a devices can I run from a 24v 3a PSU?
I'm an electrical novice (as if that isn't already apparent), but when I sized this initially I assumed 5x 5v 2a devices (5v * 2a = 10w * 5 devices = 50watts) but now wondering if that was wrong.
Usually want to only load cheap power supplies to 50% and buck converters are 90% efficient at best so I would only count on ~33 watts from that psu. Depends on the devices though- I’m usually sizing for LEDS which actually use the full amp rating. A lot of your devices may not be using the full 2A
correct, the WEMOS devices and Mini's pull very few amps when Idle.
is the math correct though. Say I move to a 48v 5a PSU I would get 240w, and assuming 90% efficiency on a 5v2a Buck (~11w), and I only load it at 50% (120w), I could power ~10x devices?
Hey everyone. Just switched overfrom using a rpi3b+ to using an old macbook pro 5.5 for HA. I completely erased it and solo booted Debian 10 onto it. Everything is working flawlessly and it is so much faster. Its crazy how bogged down the rpi AND sd card were getting in my old setup. That said, would love any tips/tricks to future proof the macbook so I dont need to go through this process again. Ideally, i'd love to be able to get a couple years out of it before switching to new hardware. Any ideas?
yeah, i figured that the laptop is so old right now that i dont need to worry about firmware updates since apple stopped pushing them a lkong time ago. The computer is from 2009-ish
But thats good to know
ya, the hardware is more than enough, as long as the components don't die
backup/restore is easy though, so just make sure to copy your snapshots to other media
yup, thanks to the google cloud backup, got that one squared away
Upgrade the RAM and drive to SSD. IIRC, there are different ways to do those between the 15" and the 17", but they are fairly easy to do.
How much ram would you recommend me upgrading to? I am running 6 cameras through it
I think those only go to a max of 8GB.
4-8gb RAM is plenty
Matched pair of 4GB PC3-8500
ok, it has 4 gb as is, you think im okay?
oh ya
But with a 1TB SSD, your RAM usage will be fine as it should swap to disk pretty quickly.
Yeah, 4GB should be fine so long as you're not expecting to decode 6 streams@4K30fps|4K60fps.
If you keep your 6 streams low(ish), like 1080p@30fps, you'll be fine.
I'm running mine on a VM w/ 2 cores and 2GB or RAM.
beautiful... thank you for the reassurance. I do NOT want to swap systems again for awhile. Had to go through and manually restore components since the laptop for some reason didint like the restore. It fucking sucked.
CPU never goes above 10%, Memory usually hovers around 40%, and no swap
I use ZoneMinder on a separate VM
ahhhh smart
im going to look into that. Right now i have all my cameras running through synology integration
CPU is an AMD Opteron (from 2011) runs at 2GHz, to give you some context
ya as long as some other device is handling the cameras you'll be fine
and if you're not transcoding you won't use much CPU anyway.
So is my synology technically transcoding it?
I can't say, not sure how its setup. But I assume the cameras are H.264 and your Synology is just taking the stream and writing to disk.
NAS devices typically have low powered CPUs anyway
yeah, thats exactly why im not running HA on synology
Anyone have any recommendations for a zigbee outlet that offers power monitoring? US and hoping around $20.
Does anyone know if the sonoff zigbee plugs work with HA?
And also offer range extending
Hi Everyone, I got a new modem/ router from my ISP today and a bit nervous about switching. I'm thinking about setting the router up with all tasmota and IoT devices, reformatting the SSD with a fresh HA image; plugging the Pi in via ethernet and loading from a snapshot I have saved on my PC. Would this work?
@spring trailwhat? modem/router has little to do with HA. are you asking can you restore HA via a snapshot? the answer is, yes
I think my network is very much related, will I have adressing issues?
What is the best way to switch networks is my question I guess, and will doing this way cause problems?
Ideally you're using static DHCP leases already
If you're not, you're about to be in for a world of pain
If you are, then this is trivial - I've swapped routers out routinely without any problems
- Set up the same IP range and static DHCP leases in the new router
- Remove the old one
- Connect the new one
thanks tinkerer
There is any tuya camera or tuya doorbell that works with tuya integration in HA ?
Hi all, Just wanting to see if anyone has a working ducted samsung air conditioner implemented in HA (either via the smart things app or Climate_IP). Im getting mixed messaged doing a lot of googling and everything I can find is from a long time ago. I've tried installing the Climate ip module but I believe it needs to be remade for async? Thanks
Integrations with HA would be #integrations-archived
Thanks Tinkerer didn't know as the specific controller is samsung hardware
ok sry mate, new here
hello 🙂
what would you buy : The (amazing:P) Xiaomi Gateway Zigbee 3.0 vs USB Zigbee dongle ?
Dongle all the way
ok 🙂 i'm gonna get a dongle
Just ... take the advice of #zigbee-archived so you don't buy a piece of junk
ty! here they can deliver the USB Dongle ConBee II
Sure, if you're going to run deCONZ
Not if you're going to run anything else though
@fringe moon Do you have a samsung hvac at your place?
yes
thanks
Hi hello. Is there a device that can copy and send rf signals?
Can someone suggest device that can open garage door (rf) with phone from 30meters away through one outsidewall
Should be able to send signals 40Mhz and 10bit codes.
You may want to ask the #zwave-archived folks
Maybe better to do it there indeed. thanks!
Hi there, I'm trying to get an Aoara Magic Cube to connect to HA (on a RPI4) using a combee 2, running a new swtich scan in Phoscon doesn't find the cube (it found my other cube fine), anyone know how I can problem solve the issue?
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
Problems with the Blue? See #330990055533576204. If your install isn't responding then see your install method channel above.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://paste.ubuntu.com/ to share code or logs
☝️ you wanted the #zigbee-archived channel
ok many thanks
does anyone use one of those mini screens for raspberry pi as a dashboard for HA?
hey folks, can anyone recommend garage door openers? i have a zwave for my current double door, but i'm moving house to 3 garage doors.
do i stick with the z-wave gocontrol zwave plus (which is $99 each now)
or can someone point me to the wifi ones that i can flash with tuya convert or ESPhome?
OR do i just build one with an ESP8266 a relay and reed sensor
Are there any rgb light strips that play well with HA? I use zigbee/ zwave/ wifi, so anything works really. A ton of options on amazon but they all seem to use some special remote of sorts.
I use the Gledopto (Zigbee) controllers, they work fine with Zigbee2MQTT and should be fine with ZHA too
That is just a universal controller for any rgb lights? I didn't know such device existed. Neat. Do you have any rgb strip recommendations ?
Yeah, you hook up any strip you want
I prefer CCT to RGB, but ... work out what length you want, and how many LEDs/m you want, and then find something on AliExpress that doesn't break the bank 😄
thanks man!
So question: I'm running an ESP8266 and i can't get OTA to work. It just hangs on the "logs"
we'll need more than that, like what type of firmware its running
anyone recommend a sensor I could use in a bedroom to turn on the light but would be smart enough to tell if I'm laying in bed so as to turn the light off ?
i recently upgraded my garage doors to a liftmaster unit w/ battery backup. had to get battery backup b/c of rolling blackouts during summer season. since they came with myq (not normally recommended), i ended up working with myq via home bridge controller for local polling. it's been solid so far, and nice to skip the cloud/myq clunkiness
There's no single sensor for that, but you can use multiple sensors and some automations
Light sensor, door sensor, motion sensor, load sensor... maybe mobile phone app, and other logic
I would cameras and ML in the living room to tell if someone is laying on the couch, I figured cameras would be weird to have in a bedroom though 🙂
Load sensor is the most direct option
yeah I like that idea
Hey Guys, I am new to HA and home automation in general. I am looking for cheap sensors and found Aqara for extremely cheap on like Aliexpresss and what not. Is there a reason I should not go for something like Aqara and pay up for more expensive sensors?
Aqara sensors are generally good as long as you have a good coordinator to support them (check the pinned topics to get a list of those). However, a lot times, you get what you pay for, especially off of Ali.
aqara sensors are the same, regardless where you buy, just make sure its not only Aqara in the sellers title
What does 'getting what you pay for' mean in this case? Would it be more unreliable? or a hassle to set up or something?
I'm assuming you mean go for the Xiaomi Aqara's rather then Aqara?
All should be the same price
the motion/illuminations sensor should run you 13-14$ for example
Cheap devices tend to use less than stellar radios and such. Sometimes, they're great (I have some Aqaras that are fantastic for the price), other times, not so much (like some of the Sonoff ZB devices). Same can be said for some bulbs as well. Hues; Super stable, but expensive. Ikea bulbs, much cheaper but sometimes unreliable. There's lots of variables to consider.
I see, so reliability generally plays a factor in these cheaper sensors
for sensors aqara is still king if you include the price factor
I had also found online some talking about them losing connection and not re-connecting automaticly or something like that
Yeah, that's why I said to make sure you have a good coordinator.
A coordinator would be a USB dongle or such?
In terms of Zigbee, everyone has recommended me Conbee 2
Yes. Although, most of us typically don't recommend getting a USB dongle coordinator if you can avoid it.
The Conbee2 is meh.
then what do we recommend if its not a usb dongle? 🤔
there are better options then a USB dongle?
Derp... Forgot this was hardware and not #zigbee-archived
CC253x is outdated for example
CC2652p2 is pretty much king right now.
anything with CC2652x will serve you well for quite a while
That is a great tip 🙂 I will try to find a CC2652p2 then if requiring Zigbee coordinator
Should I be chosing between Zigbee and Z-Wave as a beginner just starting off with home automation?
If you look at the pins in #zigbee-archived there's some great recommendations.
how much money do you have to spend?
zwave= 💸
is a method of obtaining root access to an Amcrest doorbell useful to anyone here?
Id love to keep it as cheap as possible so I can start off with more things, but im guessing I should not be approaching it like that and invest in decent equipment over time XD
why here exactly? shouldn't that be a forum or a blog post?
probably, I'm just in early stages and I'm not very adept at packing/unpacking firmware
they use a lot of mounted filesystems
Home automation, like everything else, is really dependent on cost... So, for instance, you buy yourself a cheap TV; It won't have the best picture and sound quality. But, you can upgrade it later on. Most home automation gear is like that. You can start off cheap and then upgrade as you need to.
cram, squash, and jffs2
Thats fair, and great advice 🙂 thanks for that!
there, contributed to the main AD110 forum post: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/amcrest-video-doorbell-ad110-initial-impressions/171290/232
tbf, i have had more issues with Hue Dimmer switches dropping connection, haven't had an issue with Aqara yet
Hey guys, I'm looking for wall switches that I can flash Tasmota OTA. All suggestions are appreciated.
Have you checked the blakadder DB? https://templates.blakadder.com/
OTA flashing (i presume you mean tuya-convert) is quite rare these days, mostly on a year+ old stock of devices
time to learn some soldering or find switches with pin headers
Good day All. I am using ewelink integrated into Home Assistant using AlexxIT SonoffLan. I am using a garage door opened with reed switch. It is working fine in Home Assistant but I was wondering if there is a way to swop the open / closed status within home assistant.
Currently when the magnets are together it is closed. Not together it is open. I would like to change it to be open when the door is closed and closed when the door is open.
Has anyone done this? is it possible? Any assistance greatly appreciated
create another template entity with reversed statuses
Could you point me into the right direction of how to do that please?
that depends on what entity is reporting the status
its just one switch with reed switch
Do you mean 433Mhz? That seems more likely. In that case search Google for 433Mhz repeater.
looking for a bit of info on sensors and esp8266. Can you use "logic" when displaying stuff?
For example if i wanted to average 4 temp/humidity sensors
what is "logic"?
you can create a min-max sensor that will average out a number of them
ok cool
as far as logic more basic stuff
"if null, etc
just like error handling and little stuff like that
not big for/while loops
I am not sure this will work as it is only 1 entity with its own reed switch.
it will work
There's template #integrations-archived for many platforms, they all work 😉
If it's really a binary sensor then you've got other options too
i was under the impression it was a switch
Well, depends on what it really is, it could even be a cover entity
All bets are off until details are provided 😛
#hardware-archived message was my guiding light
Oh, I agree, it's a reasonable assumption, but you've been here long enough to know that reasonable isn't really reasonable 😛
It could be two entities, or one, or ...
this is the hardware https://ewelink.eachen.cc/product/eachen-gd-dc5-ewelink/
What are the actual entities in Home Assistant though?
just a switch.sonoff_garage
Then yes, a template switch is all you need
I will give it a try. Thank you
The #integrations-archived channel can help with that if you get stuck
Does not make sence
@grave prairie When using Discord's new Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
#integrations-archived is the channel for help with integrations
Questions about a hardware device (not their #integrations-archived with HA, and not the thing that HA calls devices)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff (or if you're asking about Tasmota or ESPHome).
Problems with the Blue? See #330990055533576204. If your install isn't responding then see your install method channel above.
If you want to share images, use https://imgur.com/ or similar.
Please use https://paste.ubuntu.com/ to share code or logs
☝️
I dont want to toggle anything based on status
#integrations-archived channel can help with integrations
should I post my question there?
Yes
Hi there, I'm looking for ideas on lightweight ceiling LED panels. Are there premade 230v zigbee/wifi/whatever panels, or is there a 230v smart LED driver somewhere?
I have used the gledopto ones before like: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002459524572.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.47316ce5UMPFjj&algo_pvid=9ddd0c65-fee2-470b-bdf0-143e3e5beb72&algo_expid=9ddd0c65-fee2-470b-bdf0-143e3e5beb72-2&btsid=0bb0622d16208262934813163e0332&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
but is there a different solution to the input voltage? I'd rather just wire directly the 230v
There are Tradfri panels from Ikea
to step down the voltage?
oooh interesting
the largest panels are pretty expensive, but if I can find a couple of cheaper 24v panels, this LED driver seems to work? https://www.ikea.com/dk/da/p/tradfri-driver-til-tradlos-betjening-gra-60342656/
thanks @winged knoll ! I'm looking forward to tinkering
Hey all! Does anyone know if a Shelly Dimmer 2 can use the slider on a Leviton Decora IPL06 single pole light switch to control brightness?
I'm having a bit of a difficult time finding out what the exact capabilities and software functions the shelly switches support.
Does anyone have the drayton wiser system hooked up via Opentherm as the manual is very confusing on how to set it up as opentherm
I have the boiler working with standard on/off wiring but To wire it up as opentherm do i have to remove the on/off wiring first then wire in the 2 opentherm connectors ? (Like is the opentherm wiring a replacement to a standard on/off wiring ?)
Hi guys, using tuya convert I put tasmota on a device. Now Id like to put custom firmware. Is it still possible using tuya convert? How can i get the device in programming mode?
The #diy-archived channel could help with that, but if you've already put Tasmota on it then just follow the normal Tasmota -> custom firmware steps
Alright NUC users.....going down the Frigate rabbithole and running a bunch of other utility containers on my Pi4, I am starting to outgrow the lil guy.
What versions of NUC are you using? Any pitfalls moving to a NUC? I have a Conbee zigbee stick and a Zooz z-wave stick.
i'm using nuc10i3fnk w/ 16gb ram and 250gb m.2 ssd. totally overkill, but makes me happy 🙂
I was thinking NUC8i5BEH with 16gb RAM, 2.5" SSD then putting a Coral in the m.2 slot....
i'm not familiar with coral, but it looks interesting! im guessing you'll need docker + some tinkering to get it to work
do you know what the m.2 slot type is in the NUC?
i think it has a single notch and can accept the standard length or half length
I am going to try the B+M key Coral in the NUC 8.
I did the a+e plus a pcie adapter, works great here
(learned something new about m.2 flavors 🧐 )
anyone messed with these teckin light bulbs? From what I've read they used to be re-flashable but not anymore ?
What is the general consensus about IKEA Tradfri gateway, and the related hardware? I wanted to get a few of the switches, bulbs, and the symfonisk volume controller, but I dont have a zigbee gateay at the moment and thought it might be best to buy the tradfri gateway.
#zigbee-archived may be of more help
Thank you
Hello there,
I expreience a weird bug with a shelly 25 and HA.
If both light is on and the HA raspberry is running then:
Sometimes shelly25 turn both light off, then one on then off.
Anyone experienced a the same?
there is a log entry for the issue, but only shows the off event. (IRL one is flicker for half a sec)
https://imgur.com/a/edBtGYX
{"event_type":"state_changed","entity_id":"switch.shelly25_1_channel_1","event":{"entity_id":"switch.shelly25_1_channel_1","old_state":{"entity_id":"switch.shelly25_1_channel_1","state":"on","attributes":{"friendly_name":"Shelly25-1 channel 1"},"last_changed":"2021-05-13T20:39:27.173482+00:00","last_updated":"2021-05-13T20:39:27.173482+00:00","context":{"id":"2219e6b1e26d0a0bda63b9a119a323ca","parent_id":null,"user_id":"fca59e466a0e49e0a1d4780a2559e890"}},"new_state":{"entity_id":"switch.shelly25_1_channel_1","state":"off","attributes":{"friendly_name":"Shelly25-1 channel 1"},"last_changed":"2021-05-13T20:55:17.674213+00:00","last_updated":"2021-05-13T20:55:17.674213+00:00","context":{"id":"6b0a1df4ea5079bc4e6f950b1188d380","parent_id":null,"user_id":null}}},"origin":"LOCAL","time_fired":"2021-05-13T20:55:17.674213+00:00","context":{"id":"6b0a1df4ea5079bc4e6f950b1188d380","parent_id":null,"user_id":null}}
This is the event what turned it off. I cathed in node red. I don't see where it is coming from 😦
I started out with HA and the IKEA gateway. They are simple to connect and get working. Over time I had issues with connections to the lightbulbs missing, and at some point about a ~year ago, I moved the IKEA bulbs and switches to Conbee.
It is possible to move one bulb at a time, and keep existing entity names in HA, thus your automations/scenes keep working.
@iron vigil Please DO NOT cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
Interesting. Thank you for the insight. If worse comes to worse I may go that route.
@sharp light I love my homeseer dimmer. It has 7 LEDs on it that I use for awareness of things throughout my house.
It is the 200 version I think
i have a mix of 100s and a couple 200s. i do like the LEDs for a visual indication of dim level, but not if they're going to break all the time 😦
they were the first dimmers i found which could support central scene commands, double and triple tap, etc. loads of features in the things.
i've since been installing inovelli, don't like the appearance of them quite as much but have yet to have a single failure. meanwhile, more HS dimmers keep failing and being replaced.
Yes, I bought into homeseer when I first got started just for central scene. I don’t even use the double, triple taps, holds
it's just weird, for a dimmer i would expect the dimming part (MOSFET etc) to fail, but it seems to be the control side that's failing, not the power handling side.
Sounds like the zwave radio is failing
yeah, for sure.
which is double weird, because the radios being used in everyone's devices are the same and made by the same company (until very recently anyway, not sure if anyone has actually certified a 3rd party zwave radio chipset yet)
I need to automate the second floor at some point. Will probably go with inovelli when I do. You just can’t beat their price/options
Maybe you just got a bad batch
yeah that's the other part, these were purchased over the span of a couple years
ah well, win some lose some 😄
the thing i dig about inovelli is their community forum. not sure fi you've checked that out but it's crazy. their engineers regularly engage, solicit user feedback on new product designs, then go and add features to the product in reponse and credit the forum user who suggested it
never seen a hardware company work that way
Yea, I only have one inovelli right now. It also has an led. I use it to track the state of my dishwasher. The thing I like about zwave is it pretty much just works. No fiddling around for hours.
agreed, i'm a huge fan of "just works" and zwave usually scratches that itch. works a hell of a lot better in my house now that i pulled that one HS dimmer lol 😄
if you get a chance, check the OP linked above. it's literally the entire product design document, published for everyone to read and comment on. i fricken love this approach, it puts a lot of trust in the community and they take the feedback seriously.
Are you using OZW or zwavejs?
still on OZW. i have something like 60 zwave devices and migration is going to be a pain in the neck. hopefully migration tools will eventually happen, but until then, ozw it is.
I did take a look. You are correct, really cool
Yes, me too....I don’t have that many but prob about half
Still hoping that OZW dev comes back also 🤞
Although I know chances are slim to none
based on the author's response a few months ago, yeah probably not happening. i have no horse in this race, whatever works works, if js it the new thing sure i'll use that as soon as there's some reasonable way to get from A to B
I always keep native zwave names and customize them in customize.yaml so the actual move should be a piece of cake it is just days to fix all the automations.
I am also actually thinking of starting new, excluding all the devices and re including them
that approach would be challenging as i have several micro-dimmers etc buried in junction boxes around the house. it'd be a day or two with a screwdriver and running around the house. hope to avoid that 😛
I only have two zwave devices behind my alarm panel....everything else is readily available
In a NUC8?
Any suggestions reference the following for an opensense box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072ZTCNLK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AZEYJ27R4YB41&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GMF7GXT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
What's you WAN line speed? Some of those smaller boxes tend to choke on > 1gb connections if you have one of the various IPS/ITD options enabled.
Right now 200/25. Can’t see me ever needing more than gig speeds. What would you upgrade to prevent that as I want to run network intrusion on it
I need to look at AliExpress once I figure everything out
With that line speed, you should be fine, but atx is right that you can buy an all-in-one cheaper and then just install opnSense on it. IPS/ITD (at least the main one that opnSense provides) usually requires ~60% of the system resources to work reliably. My connection is asymmetrical 1gb up/down (fiber) and on my opnSense test box (32GB ram/i5-1135G7) , IPS/ITD used ~20GB of ram and ran the CPU at ~40%.
Well, which one do you have if you don’t mind. I like easy 🤣
Maybe you don’t have an all in one though
My opnSense box? LOL It's a repurposed Dell Optiplex 9020 that I got off eBay for $120. 😄 I think in total, with RAM and SSD, the entire build was just shy of $230?
(But... that was pre-pandemic, so prices are probably a bit higher now).
I have 2 dell optiplex 7020s and prob a 9020 already.
Hmm....need to think about this
I need 4 ports though
IIRC, the 7020s come with i5s already and you can go up to 16gb on those, which is PLENTY for you.
So if I ever get to gig speeds I just increase the ram?
Pretty much. The i5 (even the older ones) are usually matching threads to cores (except for the 1st gen ones; Intel really f'ed up on those). So, CPU-wise, you're set.
I need to figure out my processor
I have 2 of these in my build: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGP342F (but they're unavailable). Any dual/quad port adapter that's based upon the Intel chipset would work. Supposedly, the broadcom boards work as well, but they don't have a good rep in the opnSense/pfSense forums for whatever reason.
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4150 CPU @ 3.50GHz
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4150 CPU @ 3.50GHz
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4150 CPU @ 3.50GHz
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4150 CPU @ 3.50GHz
Only i3
2 core with 4 threads. Not the fastest, but should be plenty for a 200/25 connection.
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3470 CPU @ 3.20GHz
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3470 CPU @ 3.20GHz
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3470 CPU @ 3.20GHz
model name : Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3470 CPU @ 3.20GHz
THAT one. That's the one you want.
I think that’s the 9020
Quad core/quad thread.
Yeah, the 9020s are good. Is yours the mirco-atx version or the full atx version?
(mini or tower)?
LOL. Perfect.
Dell Optiplex 9010 Core i5-3470 3.2ghz 8GB DVDRW NO HD SFF Computer
I think I upgraded the ram though
So those have a max ram of 32GB, but if you want to upgrade the RAM, make sure to get Crucial. It's basically the most compatible with Dell mobos.
16346972, 16 gif
That should actually be plenty.
Just grab yourself a couple of dual port nics, pop them in the bottom PCIe slots, and you have an opnSense box ready to go. You could even go with something like a 240gb PNY SSD drive (on the cheap).
They're pretty much the same. Dell had the 9010 going as an AIO for awhile, but then released the micro-atx version in 2013 (I think?)
Size-wise, 240gb is plenty. 500gb is ok as well.
Nobody ever complained about having too much space
Mine has a 240gb PNY drive from 4 years ago in it. LOL
True....I have a bad habit of running only one thing per box though 🤣
The nice thing about opnSense is that you can run rsyslog (which is exactly what I do).
You can also pop on an external enclosure and throw a standard 5400rpm HDD in for logs as well.
That's what is going to eat up the majority of your drive space.
I have several spare USB’s
Perfect.
Just be warned that if an external drive goes (as they so often do), it'll hang up your system. That's why I always recommend going with standard HDDs in enclosures as some of them (especially the Seagate IronWolf drives) are tanks that just keep going, and going, and going.
And boom... we just saved you a bunch of moneys! lol
Yup. You should be able to get a decent system built up for less than $200 (depending on where you source your gear).
This is actually a pretty good deal (I like Crucial SSDs): https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0764WCXCV
I only run ssd so far on ODroid. That ssd will fit in the 9010 ?
It should? Is it a 2.5" SSD?
But what interface does it use? Sata?
Or are you talking about the one I posted?
The one I posted is a 2.5" SSD that uses SATA. So, yes, it'll fit in the 9010, but you might need to get a 3.5" bracket (I actually don't use one; I just have the it secured on one side inside the case).
Yes, all my drives flop around a bit 🤣
EXACTLY! LOL (Thankfully I'm not the only one!!!)
That box prob already has a 5400 drive internal in it also.
Even better. Then all you need is an external enclosure and you have a logging drive. Although, depending on the age of that drive (and a good SMART test), you might want to get a newer one.
Is there a reason to use external over internal?
Yeah, in the 9010/9020, I don't think you have more than one SATA port. There might be, but I honestly don't remember if there is or isn't. If there is a secondary one in there, then you can go internal. I'm just too lazy to check. LOL
Plus, and this one is big for me, if the system dies and I want to quickly check the logs, I just pop the drive off, pop it on my main system, and I can parse the logs quickly.
Any preference here 🤣
Ok...thanks for all your help
Of course!
Looking into getting some smart switches. Any recommendations? Was loking at kasa but not sure if they're hass supported or not?
edit: Canada, no real budget. Any protocol. Dimming would be nice!
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
If you check the integrations list, linked from the topic of #integrations-archived, you'll see what's supported
Great thanks @winged knoll
Personally I always recommend #zigbee-archived switches/dimmers/etc
Does anyone have any recommendations for RGB smart bulbs that aren't expensive and can be controlled (including color) in HA?
I'm burdened with an old house from 1947 that doesn't have neutral wiring anywhere.
use zigbee? tradfri bulbs are quite cheap
anyone know much about modbus?
I have a modbus power meter (inline) connected to my solar generator
can I have multiple devices connected to that power meter ... ie pair to the meter and then to an ESP or Pi?
I used to program MODBUS radio telemetry stuff in the early 2000s
IIRC, MODBUS supports 256 unique devices
err, it's 247.
right, but only one master and lots of slave devices
not that we are supposed to be using that terminology any more
27.5 here
whoops...wrong window
Looking for a weather station or rain/wind meter. Don't want a cloud service, just integration with HA is enough. Any tips?
I am using an rtl sdr set up similar to this https://www.rtl-sdr.com/graphing-data-from-a-weather-station-via-rtl-sdr-and-home-assistant/
But using rest sensor instead of mqtt
A list of compatible devices can be found on rtl_433 Readme https://github.com/merbanan/rtl_433
I am logging a few different temp/humidity sensors, my ws-2000, and it also picks up my electricity meter (as well as my neighbors)
Great, thanks!
CAn nayone recomend smart plugs that report power usage for the uk? I can only find the sonoff POW, and that needs to be wired in.
Any tuya plug flashed with tasmota @pallid thistle
I've never had much luck flashing tuya devices with tasmota, will that show power usage too? I want to be get a notification when the washing machine / Dishwasher / Tumble dryer has finished.
Hello everyone, i want to replace my magic home led controller. Is there someone here with experience with a great working LED controller?
@pallid thistle if the plug supports power monitoring with tuya it will with tasmota too
@fierce finch any tasmota / esphome with ws2812 LEDs?
do they make smart inline power devices so I can use my original outlets ?
Yes
Shelly?
interesting
@zealous dune and @fringe moon Thank you both
@zealous dune i'm gonna get that one! my magichome controller is so terribly slow because of the cloud ....
buying them right now on ali 🙂
So I have a light switch with no neutral wire. I need a dimmer for it. Perhaps someone can offer suggestions? I have some Shelly dimmers in my basement, but unfortunately they are hard to get in Canada for some reason right now. Quite expensive.
hardware related question : Intel NUC vs old (i5) laptop ?
Purpose?
I run HA (and Zigbee2MQTT, and a few other things) on an 8 year old i5 laptop
running debian on it 24/7 (docker) and
yes
i 'm going to use it for the exact same purpose
with a regular harddisk or did you upgraded it with a SSD ?
Regular HDD as getting into it to replace it would have been a pain
SSD would be nice
i will have to buy a SSD since my old harddisk is so slow
plus of my old laptop is that the battery works , hehe i see it as a 'free' extra UPS
@pallid thistle I have a few of these and they are good. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08LZWBTR6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
So I’m moving into a new house and I want to do a new HA setup. Right now I have some hue bulbs and lutron switches to control ceiling fans in my existing house but they are staying as part of the deal with the buyers
Is it better to get new switches or smart bulbs for everything?
You mean new versus used? My personal opinion is to always go new.
I mean is it better to get WiFi/zwave bulbs or new switches?
Smart switches/dimmers work just like dumb ones, so anybody can operate them and you can automate them
smart switches tend to not support RGB if that's your thing and they often if not always require neutral wire behind the switches which is not guaranteed
So smart bulbs for things that I want RGB and switches for everything else then
My new house was built in 2010 so I would guess that neutral wires will be present
It depends on the region
And whether the builder cared
Haha, good point
For regular lights, get RGBW or RGBCCT though if you want to use them as "white" too
What is RGBCCT?
CCT is colour temperature for white - warm through cool
Ahh, ok
It's significantly nicer than faking it with RGB
That’s VERY good to know
CCT is very nice even if you don't need RGB
Yeah, the only smart bulbs I own are CCT
Coupled with https://github.com/basnijholt/adaptive-lighting and I get cool light as the evening starts, getting warmer as the night draws in
Tradfri's are cheap and work well
How does RGBW compare to RGBCCT?
Hue are the gold standard of Zigbee bulbs, but they're expensive
RGBW is better than RGB for white, but still meh compared to RGB-CCT
RGBW is fine, but if you have the choice, always go with CCT imo
So not worth the upgrade, but I should buy CCT if buying more?
That's where I am right now
These things just don't seem to die so I'm just waiting...
If you're happy without CCT, don't worry - but when you buy your first CCT bulb expect to hate the others 😛
It's made worse by the fact that the bulbs that I have support either RGB or W, not both at the same time. So I can't fake the CCT effect either 😭
What is the general opinion on aqara sensors/buttons here? They seem small and cheap, but not sure about the quality/compatability with hass.io
They're fine, and work with any of the three #zigbee-archived integrations
There's also no "hassio"
I have now one DHT22 (temp sensor) connected to raspberrypi running home assistant container. I would like to add other temp sensors but what would be the easiest or cheapest way? I have these already:
Ikea trådfri gateway
Xiaomi mi (version 2 i think?) gateway
Logitech harmony hub
(Soon will have tuya gateway)
Would be nice that temp could be read multiple times a day (or continuously)
ESPHome or Tasmota if you're going down the DIY router
Or, go #zigbee-archived and buy a bunch of Xiaomi sensors
And I cant use xiaomi aqara temp sensors right?
Which one? Most of them are #zigbee-archived afaik
I even recommended them there 🤣
I'm looking to buy some smart outlets that have power monitoring so I can monitor my washer/dryer. I've been doing research and I'm so confused, because some outlets need to be flashed with Tasmota, but there's also ESPHome, people say to use Zigbee but that seems to require a separate hub... I'm just not sure what to get. Any suggestions?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
I'm in the US, budget is whatever but I don't really want to go all-out, I just need a couple of small plugs that have power monitoring. $20-30?
I don't know what protocols I want, I'm still new to home automation stuff and I don't really know the differences, so open to whatever suggestions people have
Personally I'd recommend Zigbee over WiFi. Sure, you need to add a USB stick for Zigbee support, but it moves everything off your WiFi
WiFi is ok for a small number of devices, but Zigbee scales better, and battery powered Zigbee devices have a longer battery life (like, years)
Right now my smart devices are some Hue bulbs (which have their own bridge), a garage door that came with the house, and some Nest Minis
I'm probably not going to do much more beyond adding these smart outlets
And HA is running on an RPi if that matters
If you still think adding the hardware for Zigbee is worth it, I'm open to it, but these outlets will probably be the only additional things I add to my system for the foreseeable future
Well, with Zigbee you could ditch that Hue bridge ...
I just bought it a couple of weeks ago and don't have the boxes anymore to return it, I wish I had looked into it a little more, heh
If you're not expanding much further though, WiFi is fine - I can't recommend anything though as I live elsewhere in the world 😄
Makes sense, thanks for the feedback!
Anye know if I can put tasmota on these? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QCSBXN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RR54PH9P68G68JGASJ2B
@pallid thistle , search here https://templates.blakadder.com
Greetings!
Brand new user. First post. Please help me understand what I need to migrate from Smartthings to Home Assistant. Not necessarily looking to get rid of Smartthings completely since I have over 200 devices setup on it and I am just used to it. I understand you can “bridge” HA and ST so I will be researching that option more.
I run smarthings on a large property that has five separate buildings on it. All of the buildings are on the same wifi, but they use their own smartthings hub, as they are too far away from each other to linkup the zwave devices over a single zwave network. So, we have a Smartthings hub in each building, for a total of five hubs.
As I said, currently running around 200 zwave devices and 18 nest smoke alarms between the five hubs/buildings. Everything works pretty smoothly but we have lots of issues with the forced-cloud requirements of Smartthings because we are in a rural area with a point-to-point Internet service that is not always reliable. So, HA is a very exciting option to me.
Now, my question is… how many HA hubs do I need to build to handle this situation? Do I just need one? Or do I need five?
Check a light switch for a neutral wire and it had it so I ordered a bunch of switches but it turns out it's the only light in the house with neutral wires??? Is that normal?
Can be
Damn, that's a piss off
Yeah
Now I have 3 & 2/3s packs of light switches...
How old is your home? It's likely you can hire an electrician to pull a neutral into your intended switch location.
You could run it all with a single instance of HA. If you have Z-Wave devices, you might run into some issues (as you noted) with distance. However, you could use zwavejs2mqtt to bridge that gap. Basically, you'd put a raspberry pi with a z-wave coordinator in each building. Then have all the zwavejs2mqtt instances point to the same MQTT server. Your single HA instance will pick up the devices through MQTT discovery. You could also do it with websockets as well. The same thing would apply for Zigbee devices as well.
Only 7 years old!
How difficult is that to do?
That's... truly odd. Most modern homes (20 years) should normally have neutral wires. It's definitely not a DIY project - leave that for electricians man.
I'll send a pic of the two, maybe I'm just missing something obvious
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Hmm in most standards, the white is generally neutral, then there's a ground somewhere... which is probably that thing in the back screwed there...
But if I had to poke a guess, that's probably what you're seeing.
Yeah, seem pretty odd
This one doesn't need a neutral apparently
Unless you are using it as a 3 way
Actually, if you look at that link there's a yellow diagram which is exactly what you're looking at more or less...
And so... if you're wiring up some switch, this is probably what it should look like in the end:
(see before and after image)
Man I hope that helps, and if I don't see you here tomorrow I know I'm wrong lol
Hahahaha
The first photo in my link has the neutral wire, it's the second one where the white and black wire is going to the Switch that's the weird one
Still though, I'd still say to get an electrician in and have him work on the one switch and then spy on him like a hawk to learn what he's doing 😛
huh, I only saw one link
Oh, there's multiple images in the one link. I'm an idiot.
Yeah haha, I actually install one of the switches and it works perfectly for the one with the neutral wire!
Now all you have to do is give a switch that requires a neutral to a sparky and then spy on him at a very uncomfortable distance
Wait... what's the third white wire in your image out the back?
Black one is ... probably the load then, white is the Live, and then the ... one that is going straight through will probably need to be spliced as that's proooooobably the neutral. Otherwise can't see how this switch is supposedly going to work at all really haha
You would think the electrician should mark that non-standard white wire with some taping but hey... *shrugs^
