#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 74 of 1
zigbee isnt a brand it's a protocol that communicates over 2.4ghz and is subjected to interference https://www.metageek.com/training/resources/zigbee-wifi-coexistence/
ZigBee transmits on the same part of the 2.4 GHz spectrum as Wi-Fi, and when both protocols are transmitting at the same time, it causes interference that can damage the quality of the Zigbee signal. In this lesson, we’ll cover how to design a network for Wi-Fi and Zigbee to peacefully coexist.
Yea yea, that is one of my questions ... i see they have small-form factor wifi relays which are placed behind electric socket/light switch, but that seems to be more for "adding the smart thingy to the existing cabling". THey also have these relays in a form for DIN (duno if that is a thing in US, pretty much installed like the fuse in fusebox). For power socket that is clear but i am a bit confused how that would work with light switches, since the relay should be between switch and light. But if it is in the fuse box, then how ...
the "Pro" style din rail are definitely better quality
as far as how you gotta look at the wiring diagrams
https://www.aaron-powell.com/posts/2023-01-05-building-a-smart-home---part-6-lighting/
Here is the "problem" about keeping the light switch operational in both "physical" form and "smart" w/o messing with the switch state, but the guy used the small relays.
Yea, definetly, i was just seeking for "which way to go", then i will let the electricians do the actual installation (I am not going to mess around with that).
@cold moon Does it make (practical) sense to run cables to each window for the "open window" detection? I see there is bunch of the wireless solutions running on battery which can be just glued to the window/frame. Cables seems like an overkill to me but maybe i am missing something ...
Depends how much money you have lol
Some guys demand wired everything for reliability and pay for it
You might want to look into the KNX system by @broken flower he’s got a great home assistant integration too
Well running cables is "easy" as the current state is that the walls are "naked", nothing is in place yet. So i still have space to "cable everything"
I’d focus on 18/3 or 16/3 low voltage wiring for LEDs and Ethernet over wiring to windows personally
Yea, my thoughts as well. I will run CAT6A everywhere (and I will most likely go crazy with that, but there is always a spot where one day i would be missing ethernet :D). LED lights / LED panels are more or less clear too, but the switches ... 😄 .. But i think i will just skip the windows... thanks...
I’m talking about low voltage bias lighting like 5/12/24v led strips
Yea, that is planned for kitchen and stairs/ambient light. But got your point, thanks.
Rare to hear that- where have you ran them?
Is this a high end home using dmx or your own spin up using esphome / wled or?
Hi,
I am running HAOS on a Proxmox VM, but I have noticed that RAM consumption gradually increases after each reboot. Is it normal ?
https://i.imgur.com/MfyVb5G.png
Can’t find a q7 Max robot around anymore. Any good robot vacuum that works locally with HA. don’t mind rooting but if is easier would be better
Just Q8s and S8s blergh
Also I have some Martin Jerry switches that are running tasmota. Can’t seem to open them so I’m wondering if I can esphome them without bricking via ota
just installed, will see diff tomorrow
It's almost certainly "not real". Just the operating system gradually using more ram for caching etc
I believe the system monitor does not count cache.
There's probably in-process caches too, in the app?
Unless there's a bug, it shouldn't leak, but it may grow some
The graph looks like it's slowly levelling off anyway?
I'm just getting started with home assistant. I have it all configured, and I wanted to make a simple temperature/humidity sensor for a room. I got an ESP32 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/23484) and a SparkFun Atmospheric Sensor Breakout - BME280 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/15440) and I'm wondering how I can go about setting this up to report temperature and humidity in Home Assistant. Any help would be appreciate =]
Yeah, I started with that
And...?
I see the device in my ESPhome within Home Assistant, but am unsure of what to do next to get the sensor outputting data over i2c to the esp32, and then how to get the info from the esp32 to homeassistant
So when you press the LOGS button on that card do you see the BME280 sensor reporting?
@cursive prairie I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
Did you add the BME Component to your device yaml? Share the YAML for this device.
Please use a code share site to share code or logs, for example:
- https://dpaste.org/ (select YAML for the language, and consider picking a longer expiry)
- http://pastie.org/ (select YAML for the language)
- https://paste.debian.net/ (you guessed it, select YAML as the language)
Please don't use Pastebin, since it can randomly add spaces to the main view. Please also don't share text as images since it makes it harder for people to help you. Remember that others may have colour blindness, impaired vision, etc.
I wasn't sure what specifically to add to the yaml - it's just the default yaml file
https://dpaste.org/fYnV4
Ahh this looks like what I need
You will also neeed the I2C component'
That is what the BME uses to communicate with the ESP.
He should be using esp-idf framework too
He has to reflash serially with it to partition right iirc
framework:
type: esp-idf
That was remarkibly painless ❤️
[21:21:27][C][api:144]: Using noise encryption: NO
[21:21:27][C][improv_serial:032]: Improv Serial:
[21:21:54][D][sensor:094]: 'BME280 Temperature': Sending state 25.32766 °C with 1 decimals of accuracy
[21:21:54][D][sensor:094]: 'BME280 Pressure': Sending state 1000.96033 hPa with 1 decimals of accuracy
[21:21:54][D][sensor:094]: 'BME280 Humidity': Sending state 62.09668 % with 1 decimals of accuracy
[21:22:21][I][safe_mode:041]: Boot seems successful; resetting boot loop counter
[21:22:21][D][esp32.preferences:114]: Saving 1 preferences to flash...
[21:22:21][D][esp32.preferences:143]: Saving 1 preferences to flash: 0 cached, 1 written, 0 failed
[21:22:54][D][sensor:094]: 'BME280 Temperature': Sending state 25.40402 °C with 1 decimals of accuracy
[21:22:54][D][sensor:094]: 'BME280 Pressure': Sending state 1000.98779 hPa with 1 decimals of accuracy
[21:22:54][D][sensor:094]: 'BME280 Humidity': Sending state 61.68457 % with 1 decimals of accuracy```
What are people using to integrate HLK-LD2450? Looks like there’s some ESPHome support? Looks like there have been a few projects starting, but still a little bleeding edge?
https://apolloautomation.com/products/mtr-1 we sell a sensor built around it
Description Introducing the Apollo MTR-1 for ESPHome, a multi target radar multisensor. The MTR-1 packs a diverse array of sensors in an affordable and compact package. With dimensions of 49mm by 32mm and a profile of just 15mm, this sensor can seamlessly integrate into any space. Multiple targets, zones, target coordi
Thanks! Looks like a great starting point for me
Espredence plus two movement sensors and a temperature and humidity one
I’ll have to find how to code a decision tree on this to indicate if someone is really on the toon or not lol
Hi all! I am new to Home Assistant, even though I had many main competitors for years. These systems usually have mobile apps and sometimes some smart displays, but what I am really interested in is a standalone remote.
In the past I used Logitech remote, but it was many years ago and it was slow, and not so smart. I recently saw SwitchBot remote, but it apparently supports only their devices. What I was hoping is that maybe the situation with remotes has improved, especially given Thread/Matter development.
Is there any universal remote supporting Home Assistant? Or anything resembling it?
The best I have found is suggestion to use a tablet in kiosk mode, by opening the Home Assistant dashboard and locking the view in that page.
What amount of remote control do you need? Any "switch" which connects to something that connects to HA can be used as a "remote". Like a hue-switch, or that cube thingy, or any number of similar gadgets.
If a remote supports (say) zigbee or zwave or bluetooth, and you have matching receiver system, you can use it as a remote. And connect whatever actions you want to it
@untold bear
Can Philips Hue be connected to Home Assistant? I did not know, if yes.
Yes, it can. Actually, you can skip the hue bridge completely if you have a zigbee coordinator etc
That's what I do, and I have a few bulbs, motion sensors, switches, etc
I was thinking about:
- lights (on/off/dim)
- lock (lock/unlock)
- fan (on/off)
- plus maybe TV, playing music on speakers
- if possible, maybe also alarm arm / disarm? (Would likely require more complicated input)
If you have a zigbee coordinator, theoretically you can probably use almost any zigbee device...
I have no idea what that means, but I can check
A zigbee coordinator is like a.... wifi access point, but for zigbee
you can also plug a zigbee dongle directly into your home-assistant, but I like having a separate bit of hardware, for more flexability in placement, and less emf interference.
I have a tubez coordinator, something like this one https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p2-based-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/
Ok, I don't know - if it is not built in into Dell Wyse I am using as hub, then I don't believe I have one, would likely need to buy some and connect
Thank you, @tacit burrow
Dell Wyse is just a small pc. You'd need a new thing, ues.
Some of the zigbee devices can then form a mesh, which spreads their connectivity through your house. Here is my map
You can control all the devices, and/or receive inputs from them all, in home assistant, and wire or automate that however you like
Which processor would you recommend when I want to setup a new machine with Proxmox and Docker? Would you go with a N5005 or N6005? Or something different?
You may not need docker (as such) with proxmox. You can 90% use LXC for the same thing.
I'd get whatever is the cheapest thing that will do the job for you. Lots of people (myself included) swear by used SFF machines like lenovo thinkcentre or hp elitedesk, etc;
See https://www.servethehome.com/introducing-project-tinyminimicro-home-lab-revolution/
Depending on how much you want to run on it, a 6500t with 8gb of RAM and a SSD might be all you need. Should be well under $100.
Yes I am looking for such a thin client. There are a lot of on eBay between 50 and 130€ and even with more or less powerful processors. Idk how much is worth to spend to have enough power over time.
Spend less, replace only if you need to. Unless you're going to be doing "high cpu stuff" (like object recognition on a camera stream, or transcoding, etc) your CPU requirements will be low. As will your memory.
Normal HA and automation and sensors uses very little
My HAOS uses ~5% of a 7500t and about 2GB of ram, all in a VM on proxmox
I run a bunch of other stuff on the same proxmox/lenovo thinkcentre m910q and the whole box averages about 7-8%
Thank you that helps a lot
Can anyone recommend his setup for HA Os that running 24/7 ?
Most HA run 24/7. Do you have a specific requirement?
the most recommended hardware on this server is a beelink n100
Q - I'm looking for a way to detect if a mortice lock is 'locked' - anyone got other suggestions apart from a microswitch mounted at the back of the rebate / striker plate? Its for a garage - easy to detect door & rollershutters open/closed (reed switches) and locking bar across rollershutter (again, microswitch where the bar comes through the side rails), but the door itself is fiddlier
So i need to forget ras pi 5 and get beelink instead? Also is there a barebone n100 ? So i can get better ssd
I need a device that I shouldn't worry about it . Heating or noise or failures.
Any old junker pc with ssd will be fine
Stupid question.. can I flash a USB with Linux or HA os in mini pc USB port ??
Not parsing your question. Are you asking if you can flash a USB key using a mini pc? Sure it's just a computer.
IMHO you can have much more fun (do lots more things) installing proxmox natively on your HA machine, and running HAOS in a VM.
Yes exactly. . What is Proxmox exactly? Is it an OS ? Why not HA inside Windows with VM ?
Proxmox is a company. They develop Proxmox VE, a virtualization software/environment based on debian.
Yes, by proxmox I mean proxmox ve
Windows has a pretty big overhead to run if you're just running VMs on it, but it is a valid option.
Any disadvantage running HA as VM inside proxmox ?
I'm doing that and it's running great. I can even do USB passthrough for getting hardware connections
Instead of HA OS
I can't name any. I can name a few benefits though: #hardware-archived message
That makes no sense. You are running HAOS either way.
It probably has a tiny performance overhead (<5%), but the benefits far outweight that.
And has impact said, you're running HAOS anyway, which is all docker etc.
Not natively
If you run HAOS natively, it's just linux + docker.
You're still comparing HAOS to HAOS which is similar to dividing by zero.
I need to read more about proxmox first sorry
proxmox ve is just a flavour of linux with a nice web-ui for creating containers and VMs
You should. Virtualization is still very much a love of mine. Hopefully it becomes yours too.
It's really debian under the covers I think.
See the link I posted for a complete walkthrough.,
Plus: tteck scripts are a big win (one-liner to install HAOS in a vm! kick ass!)
Here is another stupid question.. can I run two vm together with Proxmox ? Like 24/7
yup!
see my screenshot - I'm running a bunch of vms and containers 24x7
HAOS, opnsense (firewall/router), adgard (add blocking dns), heimdall (dashboard) , omada (SDN controller) etc
all on about 5% cpu load and 8GB of ram on a 7 year old box...
way more stable on linux/proxmox than windows would have been (imho)
@last bane each VM on proxmox looks like (to everyone else on the LAN) a separate machine. They have their own IP address, ports, etc
Plus, if you have >1 proxmox machine in a cluster, you can live-migrate between them, which is super cool
I think I'm going to give proxmox a try
minipc + proxmox is, like, 10 times as useful as a rpi.
And if one goes down you can cry because you don't have 3 😄
I have two proxmox in a cluster, and either could run all my homelab. (not counting nas)
I just use $100 used mini-pcs. They're great.
But if one goes down you don't have quorum and can't do anything.
I have fiddled the quorum settings for exactly that reason 🙂
I wouldn't use windows or anything huge with it so the system should run on minimum
I run both windows and macos (and bsd) VMs on my proxmox
sometimes the simplicity of a single system is useful to deal with
I have been running debian and just docker for my services for a long time. I still do the same just that my debian is in a VM now.
I feel much more free playing around with it because I have snapshots and full OS backups I can restore in an instant.
yeah, agreed :D
I have an (alpine + portainer) lxc for all my media/torrent stuff. Easier to manage
So you are running proxmox ve -> debian -> docker -> software? Doesn't that create a lot of issues with passthrough etc?
Simple solution… don’t passthrough stuff.
I have a slightly similar setup, but I don’t have to pass anything through to the containers.
It kinda doesn't create issues
Proxmox does stuff properly and docker thinks everything is a file
The experience will be better without a pi for sure, this is coming from someone using a pi
Also recently switched to proxmox, there were even some great deploy scripts to get one started: https://tteck.github.io/Proxmox/
Scripts for Streamlining Your Homelab with Proxmox VE
Anyone have a rec for a robovac that supports FOSS and HA integrations? Preferably one that isn’t like $700
(Also lmk if this is the wrong channel)
They're both the same?
But to answer the question I very much recommend virtualization: #hardware-archived message
Whether you want to run HAOS in a VM or just HA as a docker container in a VM with a OS of your choice is on you. If you provide more information I can make a better suggestion.
Hi folks. I have a room with some climate sensors in it, and I’d like to add an LCD panel inside to display the value of those sensors, the time, etc.
I was wondering, does anyone know of an LCD panel that fits the bill? Ideally I’d like to stick with LCD so I can use batteries to power it and count on it lasting a while.
did anyone managed to do anything with this? https://rotrics.com/products/nextube seems like it can be flashed with ESPHome " just did that " well now I can't revert it back, so was wondering if anyone managed to hack a bit with this one?
There are projects using these with wled
oh! any links? I can't find them online
Hi! Those modes are only useful with very specific hardware 🙂 Single digit clock will light up the leds 0-9. Combined with an overlay or plexiglas, this can be used to display the time one digit at a time. I didn’t like the effect that much in the long term and it was removed from WLED in version 0.9.0 (i could make it availabe as a usermod th...
First comment is wled creator sharing info on his setup
thanks
I think Cronixie is not exactly how nextube works, but worth exploring, now whenever I reflash again the correct firmwarre, it won't light up or do anything
Hi all,
Back in the days ive bought 2 zigbee shutter switches. Both switches should support the configuration of a delay time. I dont see this option with ZHA. Would there be a possibility to see those settings in Zigbee2MQTT? I do have the attributes "Current state" and "target_lift_position" which surely would help, but it cant be set with ZHA afaik
You wanted the #zigbee-archived channel
Wups, sorry!
Has anyone experience with ne of these?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZN1Z2LM/
Doesn't talk about inductive. Have a 10A Air Compressor I want to control.
Want to set away mode...
It calls itself breaker
It being tuya is usually a bad sign, they don't usually make better relays for less money
Ys, so assuming inductive as 'breaker' would be general, thinking.
Realistically you won't happily break 10a on those style of relays
I don't think I'd trust anything in my panel from "Aoyygg"
There is a reason the pull in contacts are the hvac choice
It's din rail, so a separate box like a giant smart switch basically
yeah, for panel things, I would stick with at least the brand thats already in your panel, Siemans, Leviton, etc. They also make smart breakers. Can't you just get something like a heavy duty smart switch? Aeotec has a 40A (12O to 240V) one Zwave
If you were to use such, it probably could work a lot better
I probably have an actual contactor here and a zigbee smartplug to drive ir. Just gets kind of hard to manage,
That aeotec is not inductive rated either,.
actually, it is. upto 16A
I have one of these monitoring my sump pump
Does OK on 110?
Thanks. Not sure which yet.
hey, glad I could help. I'm using some of your blueprints as we speak 🙂
if you need more info about the switch, and how I wired it, just ask
I found this as well but no monitoring and I could build this with stuff laying around for free, just lazy. https://www.amazon.com/Migro-Outdoor-Resistive-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07THD8VBN/ it's just a sonoff basic and a contactor and a box.
that should work, too. You might be able to put some ring clamps in that box to get the monitoring
and it is UL Listed i didnt see that on the Tuya 🙂
Hello,
@clear forge I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
And Qmodbus response: 00 01 00 00 00 05 01 04 02 01 03
Which is an resonable answer.
When I use this in HA I have the following different debug output:
2024-09-03 20:37:02.946 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Adding transaction 2
2024-09-03 20:37:02.946 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Resetting frame - Current Frame in buffer -
2024-09-03 20:37:02.947 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] send: 0x0 0x2 0x0 0x0 0x0 0x6 0x1 0x4 0x0 0x19 0x0 0x1
2024-09-03 20:37:02.966 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] recv: 0x0 0x2 0x0 0x0 0x0 0x5 0x1 0x4 0x2 0x1 0x4 old_data: addr=None
2024-09-03 20:37:02.967 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Processing: 0x0 0x2 0x0 0x0 0x0 0x5 0x1 0x4 0x2 0x1 0x4
2024-09-03 20:37:02.967 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Factory Response[ReadInputRegistersResponse': 4]
2024-09-03 20:37:02.967 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Getting transaction 2
2024-09-03 20:37:02.967 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Frame check, no more data!
2024-09-03 20:37:12.947 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Adding transaction 3
2024-09-03 20:37:12.948 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Resetting frame - Current Frame in buffer -
2024-09-03 20:37:12.948 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] send: 0x0 0x3 0x0 0x0 0x0 0x6 0x1 0x4 0x0 0x19 0x0 0x1
2024-09-03 20:37:12.967 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] recv: 0x0 0x3 0x0 0x0 0x0 0x5 0x1 0x4 0x2 0x1 0x4 old_data: addr=None
2024-09-03 20:37:12.968 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Processing: 0x0 0x3 0x0 0x0 0x0 0x5 0x1 0x4 0x2 0x1 0x4
2024-09-03 20:37:12.968 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Factory Response[ReadInputRegistersResponse': 4]
2024-09-03 20:37:12.969 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Getting transaction 3
2024-09-03 20:37:12.969 DEBUG (MainThread) [pymodbus.logging] Frame check, no more data!
You see that the request, except for the request no. the same is. Also the response in the same. But the content is not parsed. It is constanly zero.
Could someone provide me some insight how to debug this further or how to get the sensor working?
Thanks
I recently got a invoelli fan dimmer switch blue (zigbee) series. The spot where it is going is a 2 gang box.
Anyone have suggestions for what to put in the 2nd spot? The 2nd spot is currently a dumb switch for a hue light. I would like a smart switch that has some features outside of power control, such as environment sensors or something else that sounds cool/interesting.
Hi all, I have some 24" monitors doing nothing and want to create a HA dashboard, usual stuff like energy/camera etc. Anyway the question is what are the hardware (w/ HDMI) options to connect to a monitor for this purpose? Least maintenance and cost is possible, was hoping a firestick or chromecast might work? I am happy to pay for a fullykiosk subscription as I use that on a tablet and it works well.
Pi (or clone) would be my suggestion
So, I want to run my home assistant and some automations on my HA. I come from a pi 4 b that broke down and people keep on advising me to get a small PC. I can't find one below €200 in Belgium, except one Lenovo ThinkCentre M700 Tiny | Intel 6th Gen. Any advise?
6th gen is okay for this.
It is refurbished, is it a lot better than a new pi?
Why does a server have to be new? I can't compare without knowing the CPU.
6th gen intel still have igpu
Still a lot better than a pi 3/4/5
But imo used market is overpriced in eu and its worth buying new instead
New costs €300
I ran HA on a 10 year old i5 laptop for long enough
I have a weird question... I have an old chromebook, Lenove 500e, can I run it on that?
You don't even need a working display...
Have you looked at broken laptops on used sites? They go a lot lower than a normal pc or mini pc if they have a broken screen and it’s too expensive to fix
Maybe ... depending on the spec and it supporting UEFI
What specs?
4GB ram, non expendable, 32GB storage (SD card slot to expand), Intel Celeron N3450 Quad-Core Processor
faster than a Pi4
Not than a Pi5 though, and pretty limited storage.
I just bought a Tuya Fan, can't flash it as it has non ESP chipset and I have resigned to using Tuya. If I want to use it locally, do I need to set it up first in Tuya App? Ideally want to get local integration working
#integrations-archived can help with integrations
Yeah, considered both channels, I need to setup the hardware first, so looking for initial guidance on how to set it up.
Noting my end goal of local control
Well, if you want guidance on setting it up to integrate in HA that's #integrations-archived
#diy-archived would help you flash it, if possible
I might just stay with a Pi5, because it's easier to set up and WAY lower in price.
How much RAM then? 4 or 8?
More like, in what case scenario would I need more?
Hi, I need a curtain (blinds, the ones in plastic that are outside the window) module to replace my ZigBee tuya OEM ones that suck (it literally broke because I had an automation that when my alarm went off, it would make it go up and down, and that broke the relay lol)
I'm in Italy and I prefer ZigBee over wifi, just because if my modem goes down I can still use things.
I'd rather not have tuya ones, I feel like they're unreliable, correct me if I'm wrong.
I could buy a z wave adapter, I don't have one currently
My budget is 30/35€ for a curtain module and I would like my blind position pretty accurate, I don't ask it to the millimeter, I just don't want my blinds to be 80% while being half way up
Anyone with beelink eq broken after months for using it for HA ? .. too many bad stories about beelink .. also is there better brand ? Minisforum?
ThirdReality (if you are in the US). 4 pack is ~$35 on Amazon.
Huh... I have 14 of them and I've never seen that behavior. 
that post was 10 months ago, likely fixed in firmware https://3reality.com/release_note/zigbee-smart-plug/ (way out of date but there is a mention of multiple on/off toggles following power restore) I commented on a new FW PR to the z2m OTA directory to see if they could update the release notes, as they are may revisions past this.
Do your plugs appliance plugs not come with rated fuses? Surely the appliance plug fuse woul have blown to save the device no? I'm from the UK so maybe it's only UK plugs that have this
What's the most elegant device to implement motion detection and ESPresence bluetooth device tracking? It could have more sensors (e.g. mmWave, PIR, Light, Temp etc.). I need motion for turning on lights and want to track bluetooth devices to keep occupied rooms cards at the front of the dashboard. Cheers
Excited for this new release
wonder if that is a real NDIR CO2 monitor or just a ECO2 monitor
basically one is a CO2 sensor worthy of being called one and one is not
ah nice
Can't wait to get it
Hey, I live in an apartment and I have a 2 gang switch which has one for light inside my house and one that triggers the lights in the stairway of the building, I was wondering if there is a way for me to make the switch smart? The two have different live wires, one from my electricity and one of the building.
Hello anyone did flash an GL-S10 yet and got this issue ? https://pasteboard.co/4PJubq2g8rM6.png
Are lifx the only smart bulbs thst work with HA that let you adjust the color and brightness without turning them on first? I’ve been overall unhappy with my lifx bulbs due to constant connectivity issues, but i also have grown used to having the lights shift on the kelvin scale throughout the day so that when i do turn any lights on, on they’re the shade i want for that time of day.
Were you able to get this to work?
Yup I did. I just had to reset it and HA found it
Curious to know how would you make voice controlable light? I have zooz switch connect and be able to turn it on off though phone.
You hook the light up to HA
You connect a #voice-assistants-archived to HA
Job done
Anyone seen a mailbox lock that can open via bluetooth for instance but also manually with key? I can open my front door and also the apartment building door via phone, but mailbox still requires key.
The cabinet smart fingerprint locks doesn't seem to have a backup if fingerprint fails etc
From what I've seen online, those kind of locks can't be trusted at all
The fingerprint ones you mean?
Generally smartified ones for such applications
Yeah. That's why I need a backup solution when the smartness fails
It's more about them being defeatable by smacking them hard enough or similar low cost actions
Just doesn't feel right, even compared to cheap normal ones
Well. All the mailboxes are inside an apartment building.
It doesn't require much security.
Packages tend to be just left on top of the mailboxes if it's too big
The security gained by that will vastly depend on where you live
If that's alright then I suppose those would work well enough
Yeah, but I haven't found any that has a backup in addition to the smarts
I don't want to have to break the entire mailbox (which is owned by the apartment complex) if the lock fails for some reason
Kinda why I use Danalock on my door as well. I can always use my key if battery dies or whatever.
Any recommendations on smart light switches that offer light bulb mode so that power isn’t cut off the bulb? I have some LIFX switches that offer this but I want to move away from LIFX to a more stable bulb and switch company. I also have some Tapo light switches and bulbs but I don’t think the switches offer bulb mode.
Zooz
Hi, I need a curtain (blinds, the ones in plastic that are outside the window) module to replace my ZigBee tuya OEM ones that suck (it literally broke because I had an automation that when my alarm went off, it would make it go up and down, and that broke the relay lol)
I'm in Italy and I prefer ZigBee over wifi, just because if my modem goes down I can still use things.
I'd rather not have tuya ones, I feel like they're unreliable, correct me if I'm wrong.
I could buy a z wave adapter, I don't have one currently
My budget is 30/35€ for a curtain module and I would like my blind position pretty accurate, I don't ask it to the millimeter, I just don't want my blinds to be 80% while being half way up
Hi y'all. Going to an IKEA tomorrow. Wondering what devices I should look at while I'm there. Does anyone have any recommendations? I don't live near one so this is a small opportunity for me.
It's been a minute. I wanted to ask if IKEA tradrfi switch is zigbee based or wifi?
Tradfri is Zigbee
That's what I Thought. I"m considering to go to IKEA as well. I saw someone posted on reddit that it's going for .99 as it seems to be going be phased out
they just updated the smart plugs, much smaller form factor now. Always good to get a few of those, as they work well as repeaters.
and the Rodret switch, runs on 2AAA batts
Hey all, been trawling for a good keypad for the garage alarmo, only one that seems to be work & be purchasable is the ring keypad v2, but z-wave seems to have a high cost of entry and im more than happy to go wired.
any suggestions?
"high cost of entry" for zwave?
ring alarm keypad v2 plus alarmo works great
mine connects directly to my controller
so a $30 usb dongle + the $50 ring keypad
we talking 30usd? thats about £20 but I'm not seeing any recommended ones under £45
the red circled one is the ring keypad v2
whatever a zooz 800 usb controller is on amazon to you
yep thats 50 over here :/
idk man buy once cry once
dancing around good hardware choices is not something i do or suggest
Yep guess so. Not my hardware is the only thing, i'd like to stick to one protocol ideally but there's no zwave human presence sensors that i can see for sale.
but i guess a zigbee dongle is only a fiver if i order it from china
you dont want zigbee or zwave mmwave sensors man
do i not?
and you dont want a $5 china zigbee dongle
what is you doin
mmwave sensors are good because they can send lots of data to reliably measure presence whether it's multi zone and or multi target
been tasked on garage security. Needs to detect someone entering, have an alarm and a keypad at the very core. Later on rfid fob/cctv will be considered
you dont want lots of data on your zigbee or zwave meshes because they are very low bandwidth
been lots of motorbikes stolen lately where i live so i've been semi urgently tasked with setting this up, but I'm brand new to HA
motion sensors are an option but last thing we need is to be woken up by a moth crawling over the sensor
interesting, I haven't seen much in the way of wired solutions though
but yeah good to know
Any help appreciated with Z wave integration with Baldwin / Kwikset lock. I changed the card in the lock to one that supports Z wave plus. It’s working via HA and Home Kit integration.
Status is not always accurate.
And I can’t get activity notifications. I.E. when the lock is manually operated. I used to get these through Wink.
I’m using a Zoosk Zooz 800 Series Z-Wave Long Range S2 USB Stick with a usb extension cradle. The locks RSSI is about 90 dBm, and it doesn’t show any dropped commands.
One thing I’ve noticed is the internal led light on the lock no longer comes on when the lock is physically locked or unlocked.
I don’t know if that’s a difference in the z wave card, or an indication of a problem.
Appreciate if y’all can help point me in the right direction 😊
You really wanted the #zwave-archived channel
Does anyone know of any good outdoor soil moisture sensors?
If you can wait for a bit, Apollo Automation is getting ready to release their PLT-1 sensor. I’ve been beta testing it and it’s been really good. https://apolloautomation.com/products/plt-1-ultimate-plant-sensor-for-home-assistant
I'm sure it's asked all the time but here goes -- recs for compatible security cameras/doorbells that are NOT Ring? Local storage, minimal to no cloud dependence also preferred
I don't know about their doorbell, but my Reolink cameras seem fine (using their NVR). I haven't really tried Frigate.
That integration seems to be updated fairly often...
I just got a zbt-1 and plugged it in, would come up and start to configure then fail. Unsupported firmware
Tried to plug in to my laptop to update firmware but the web sl tools says no devices detected
HA is installed on a rpi5
Hi, I am looking for a weather station that works without a cloud connection. I mostly need it for precipitation measurement in order to control our robot lawn mower. Do you guys have any recommendations? Or is there a different sensor to consider for my application?
Depends on what you try to predict
Ecowitt weather stations work nicely for people but there are other similar brands
Thank you
I'm on the hunt for something like this for plant beds. Needs to be as water proof as possible (i.e. outdoor use). Is there anything on a bigger scale? Otherwise I'll probably experiment with this.
I’m actually working on making my beta unit waterproof. I originally put a clear plastic baggie over it, but that caused the humidity to spike. So, next I’m going to dip the case in silicone and see how that does. There is a post on the Apollo Discord about what is being released soon: <#1275224784237629561 message>
For reference, I have mine in an outside flower bed.
Are you not worried about insulating it's radio capacity as well? Granted it's silicone but...
Not really. It’s only about 20 feet from the nearest AP.
If it was farther away, I might be concerned more.
wondering if anyone has used a 27 or 32 inch Android tablet off alibaba as a display?
Saw a cool thing someone had done with photos as screensaver and then when tapped you have the dashboard available. Couldn’t really find anything US based but still hesitant
Biggest issue is they’re often sold with really old Android versions and shitty cpus/ram you might be better off with a diy touchscreen solution or forking over a lot for a decently new kiosk
lol you see me posting elsewhere! I found one with android 13
It will probably just sit there on my favorites for a while
So how do I go about getting the zbt-1 to work properly?
What firmware are you trying to flash?
The #zigbee-archived channel can help with the Zigbee firmware
And #thread-archived with the dedicated Thread firmware
Nobody can help with multi-protocol and you shouldn't use it
Hey all,
Maybe a stupid question, but does anyone know if there are G4 smart lamps?
If I wanted to get something to read my electricity meter, how would I go about figuring out what kind of hardware I need?
I would bet no, not really enough space to put the radios etc.
The meter or the panel?
Is there any hardware worth picking up from the US which is expensive or not available elsewhere?
Not sure what you mean. Like the company can collect meter information via radio just by driving by and I know there are devices that can do this
I just don't know what radio to get
Oh oh. I wasn’t sure if you wanted to do power monitoring where your breakers are or at the utility meter.
I would first look at your electric company website— ours lets you make web calls to the meter.
I've seen a few links from Googling around
https://www.nooelec.com/store/nesdr-smart.html
https://rainforestautomation.com/us-retail-store/emu-2-energy-monitoring-unit-2/
but not sure how to verify compatibility
No yeah I'm pretty sure I can't make web calls. I just got an email saying they're gonna make them "smart" over the next 3 years but I know right now the info can still be collected via radio
When I looked into that for mine they told me the radio was encrypted
So honestly you may just try calling to ask
For #zigbee-archived see #zigbee-archived - but yes you need a coordinator
The hub is probably not gonna work
Yeah might just do that. On the FAQ for one of those it said you need to talk to them anyways?
(and even if it does... Sonoff's Zigbee hubs are not great)
sorry. didnt realise there was a zigbee channel. I'll move the question.
Like I think the meter needs to be registered with my utility
In a randomly non raccoon related post...
One of my xaiomi temperature and humidity sensor, with display, flashed to zigbee stopped reporting, but the display was on (but frozen).
The CR2032 battery measured 2.86V and the battery icon was illuminated.
I jerry rigged a setup with 2xAA batteries, that measured 2.64V.
The bloody thing fired right up, so it seems that the voltage isn't super important, but rather the flow of current?
Thinking of converting the other sensors that don't need to look pretty to AA batteries.
🦝 oh, this was raccoon related anyway.
Yes. Are you using ZHA?
I know this comment was old, but I'm working on that device right now, so if you have not gotten an answer, I can tell you how to do it if you are using ZHA.
Open up the ZHA device, and then click on the (n) devices link to open the list of zigbee devices.
Click on the LYWSD03MMC.
Under device info, here are three dots on the bottom right. Click those and select "Manage Zigbee Device"
Cluster should be "UserInterface (Endpoint id: 1, ID: 0x0204, Type: in)"
Attributes f the selected cluster should be "temperature_display_mode (id: 0x0000)"
Click Read Attribute to test.
Set Value to 1, click Write Attribute.
It takes a few seconds and then the display will change.
At present I'm trying to figure out how to use ZHA Toolkit to write my calibration values to it so I can alter the humidity and temp based on calibrating it.
#zigbee-archived can help there
It's ok, not awesome, but ok
I have one... I'm not blown away by it, but it sits in the bathroom... sooooo lol
To detect poop particles?
Hehehehe... farticles
Hey all,
I am looking for hardware that supports the light transition option to achieve sunset/sunrise. I already have the Shelly Dimmer 2, but it is incompatible with Transition. needs to work over WIFI
Hey, i want to use this nspanel of moes with homeassistant but i want the buttons to work with homeassistant how could i do this ? (MOES Tuya WiFi 3.5-inch Smart Control Panel Screen 3 Relays 3 Physical Buttons) https://moeshouse.com/products/tuya-wifi-3-5-inch-touchscreen-control-ir-remote-control-bluetooth-sigmesh-hub-built-in
Appreciate the response! Sadly I'm using zigbee2mqtt but I'll check it out to see if there are similar options
Anyone ?
Thanks!
Can I use usb hub then usb extention to every usb dongles that links with HS hardware ? Or I need native USB port for each one ?
Hubs are alright
Just make sure to buy powered ones depending on your attachments
No SSD for usb Hub .. only dongles for wifi/zigbee/bluetooth etc . Also it's n100 not raspberry pi
I wonder if anybody has a solution for the following:
I'm trying to get a setup where I can control my smart bulbs both via automations in HA/nodered/zigbee2mqtt and through a switch on the wall. The 'best of both worlds' from what I've read is to have a smart switch controlling the smart lights in 'decoupled mode', where essentially, the relay behind the switch is always on, and the rocker on the switch just fires off actions on HA. This is all well and good, so long HA is up and running. But what if HA goes down, I wouldn't be able to control the lights anymore...Is there a way to handle this situation in this setup?
no
Hmm, that sucks - essentially there is no way to have automations like, automatic turn on with motion sensor, whilst also being able to turn the light on and off with a switch?
(I mean, there is, as long as home assistant is running)
Smart switch ?
yeah, like a zigbee smart switch, aqara H1, or sonoff M5 for example
Also H2 from Aqara announced this week
if you have like a zigbee light bulb and motion sensor or zigbee light bulb and switch you can "bind" them with zigbee binding and that will work regardless of home assistant on or off
but not mixing protocols and wifi and stuff. that's where home assistant comes in
Ok, this is more like it - although, would this work if the zigbee controller goes down? I thought the zigbee controller ran in HA
or can zigbee devices just talk to each other directly without the controller being on?
specifically the "zigbee binding" part
regular zigbee mesh coordinator controls it
binding they are still joined to the mesh but a press on up paddle can turn a light on and down paddle light off
but home assistant wont override that.. the devices will just do it regardless
but the light and switch have to both support it
I see
So, essentially I'd have to make sure a sonoff M5 can bind to a phillips hue hub and control a light - this seems unlikely without the man in the middle
Probably the solution is to buy a wallplate and a battery hue switch, control the bulb via the hue app if HA is down
Project: Smart light switch with offline fail-over
the offline failover is exactly what I'm looking for. I don't know anything about ESPhome though
I have a Della mini split that I would like to add to Home Assistant. Has anyone done this yet?
I was following the Local Tuya instructions, but the Tuya Developer stuff has changed.
I'm thinking about getting this: https://smartlight.me/smart-home-devices/wifi-devices/wifi-dongle-air-conditioners-midea-idea-electrolux-for-home-assistant
Hi. I've been using HA for about 5 years, and have just started fresh on a Pi 5. I wanted to start fresh as I originally set up HA through yaml (because there was no option) and I'd prefer to update with the times and use the front end where I can, and clean out all the dead wood in the old instance. So this got me thinking about doing hardware better too.
I've never been happy with my lighting, as the family flicks one switch and the smart bulbs go off-line... So. I'm looking to find out about smart switches that operated manually (if HA is down, or otherwise) or remotely, but it needs to be available in Australia and, ideally, suit the style of an older home (not illuminated buttons, screen interfaces or other Start Trek tech). So far I can't find anything that isn't a square switch format (AU switches tend to be rectangular panels, not square), and the best option seems to be a Shelly unit behind a normal switch. I'm using Zigbee with CC2530 coordinator/routers but would like to upgrade to Matter and new hubs, if necessary, providing the hubs don't send my data out of the house.
Does anyone have any tips or lessons learned in this area that they could share? I need to get it right first time if I'm to get the family on board with this automation thing!
Thanks.
Does anyone use the Philips Hue wall switches? I'm trying to use it as a series switch via ZHA. However, only input 1 and not input 2 is displayed. As if I still had to activate the 2nd input somewhere. Does anyone have an idea?
#zigbee-archived can help you with that
Ok. Thank you.
Whats a good presence sensor for the ceiling? I don't want to have these things plugged in to outlets everywhere. Or should I go espresence. I heard it wasn't quick enough for turning on lights though
I haven’t seen any battery powered mmWave sensors but people seem to like the Aqara p1 pir sensor for that
Tuya has one, but it’s been declared to be pretty bad.
If you have access to your attic (and the ceiling isn’t super thick or concrete or something like that), you could mount them above the ceiling and have them firing down. I’m doing that with one of mine right now, but my ceilings are all 1/2” drywall, so pretty porous and the radar fires through pretty easily.
Doesn't matter if it's ac powered.
If you don’t mind USB-C powered, I use Apollo sensors (https://apolloautomation.com). They are well priced and the MSR-2 is my fave mmWave sensor. I have them in all sorts of weird places (in my ceiling, under my couch, behind my headboard, mounted to a window).
So these suck?
My main thing is for them to look like they belong there
They’re Tuya Zigbee. Yeah, they suck (I’ve tested them myself). They have hardly any settings for tuning energy readings (so HIGHLY susceptible to false readings from pets and ceiling fans). The MSR-2 is about a quarter the size of those.
For a bedroom is it better to have these in the center of the room. This is my first run with these sensors so my knowledge is basically non existent
Depends on what you want to do. They aren’t PIR sensors, so if you’re looking for just simple lights on/off based upon movement, not a great choice. They are better for things like keeping lights on even when you’re not moving (so, like sitting on the couch reading or watching TV).
For mine in the bedroom, I put it behind my headboard so it knows when I’m in bed (and the ceiling fan doesn’t trigger it).
I'm basically looking for an all in one type option mmwave and pir
But I also had one underneath the bed firing up as well. That was kinda cool.
You won’t find one. Well, there is the EP-1, but it’s gotten kinda crap reviews.
Most mmWave sensors are fast enough to replace PIR sensors, but it’s kinda overkill (imho).
I think I’m down to something like 6 PIR sensors, but they are for special cases (under bed lighting for instance when I get out of bed and it’s dark).
See for me i generally keep ceiling fans on. Is there a way to block out the ceiling fan. If i had one behind the headboard I'm not sure it would see me walking in the door
Not with the cheap Tuya ones. The Apollo and Everything Presence ones, yes. You can tune them to ignore fans and pets.
So it's got like a mapping feature?
So, this one is mounted in my attic, firing down above my ceiling fan. It ignores the fan and wind and only triggers on something below 3-4 feet from the ceiling:
As you can see I'm an idiot about these lol
Kind of. You tune the energy gates and set energy thresholds.
lol no worries. I was too at first.
So, in that screenshot, all the lower gates (gates are basically energy readings starting at the sensor and radiating out) are set to have 100% thresholds which basically shuts them off.
Do they have decent range. Say for like a 12x12ft room would 1 be ample enough
Yeah, they have a range of ~15-19 feet (max 6m). But at a long range like that, it’s a bit weak in detection.
But that’s true for most sensors as well.
So even above the sheetrock this would still work that good? If I could completely hide it even better
Plus, you could also do both a PIR motion sensor and a mmWave sensor.
Yup. That’s how the one in my attic is. It’s sitting on the top of the sheetrock firing down into the living room.
And I have 3 more coming that are going above my kitchen ceiling, dining room and my office.
Sweet
Granted, my ceilings are all 8’. So, if you have like huge vaulted ceilings or something like that, they probably wouldn’t work that well.
Like I get it can detect down but even like that does it still project outwards pretty good. Mine are 8ft to
Yeah, it’s a conical detection zone. I don’t have the spec in front of me, but I believe it’s up on Apollo’s site.
This is what I have (so far):
Thanks for all the info. Saved me from wasting money on the other one
Anytime! If you want to go on an even deeper dive, pop into the Apollo discord (https://discord.gg/AsqVzxNM). The guys there are really good about answering questions and such.
Does anybody know if there are any smart display products with temperature sensor which fit in a wall switch mounting hole besides Shelly Wall Display?
Any reccomendations for cheap simple ir
blasters?
And how do I know which ir to fire to
turn off and on my ac
I haven't tried it yet, but I would checkout some of the ESP32 stuff, the boards are only $5 or 3 for $10-12. https://2smart.com/docs-resources/tutorials/the-esp32-based-ir-remote-control-for-household-appliances
ya, I use a lot of ESP32 boards for motion detection with HA, they all have wifi and have been working flawless for over a year.
I don't have soldering thing
I’m building a new study for myself at home and I’m considering putting in a Sonoff NSPanel. Has anyone got experience with these?
They look slick, but I’m just wondering how functional they actually are.
Hi. Sorry to jump in here, but are you saying the mmWave can work thru Sheetrock (or in a use case I didn’t previously know was possible, from inside a closed cabinet with 1/2” wood doors)? Thx
Correct. I have mine is all sorts of odd places. The signal can degrade a tad being blocked by thicker materials, but generally speaking, a 1/2” piece of wood isn’t a problem at all. That’s about the thickness of my headboard.
Today my dad and I installed the custom line voltage to smart thermostat converter board he made
We got two more to do, but now all the ecobee equipment is running smoothly!
Very cool thx for sharing. It would be neat if this could be used for trane systems with custom control boards here
Anyone know if I can "daisy chain" the sonoff POWR320D and THR320D?
and has anyone tried adding a zigbee relay to their fan above their stove? If mine gets left on for a long time, it gets super humid in the house (thanks florida).
Tuttle or Buttle? 🙂
Central Services wanted too many forms
I need a presence sensor for mounting in a bathroom. No AC outlet availability.
Could be a simple motion sensor if presence is not doable. Will only be used to detect when someone is using the shower
PIR is the easy answer
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
less easy answer is PoE from a PoE switchport to a PoE splitter to an apollo sensor or other wifi mmwave sensor
PIR + door sensor and you've got all you need for wasp in a box
or DIY PoE ethernet mmwave sensor
like ld2410B + olimex ethernet esp32 board
keeping mmwave traffic off wifi is nice tbh
I used a temp and humidity sensor for that (looking at rate of increase), as it didn't need line of sight, which was my challenge.
that just gets you temp/humidity not presence
Fair enough, or someone wasting water😏
i go one step further with state of homepod mini (smart speaker) so if someone is in shower but music is playing and door is open and pir is not triggered it still keeps lights on
Yeah, I do something similar in other rooms
altho i will replace PIR with mmwave soon i just havent cuz my current system works lol
Need to get myself some Apollo sensors soon
cuz then i can use zones like on_shitter and in_shower
How about singing in the shower but no music playing. Lol. A new use for whisper??
we can send some free for testing purposes
Eh... honestly... I'll happily pay to support them
thx we also are tiny and dont make much money yet lol
Ditto, happy to support. Looking at going that direction too!
I'd rather put my money in the hands of small business than big ones
we sent one of each to bdraco who is optimizing esphome and home assistant with some things he's learned
which is pretty sweet
like enhancements for all esphome devices that use batteries
and anyone using the same odroid we use for our "hub" (yes we sell a hub and no i still think mini pcs are better)
https://github.com/home-assistant/home-assistant.io/pull/34630 adding our first PR to home assistant core too
thank goodness, I was ready to say "you've changed bro"
as far as SBCs go it's basically the best option
i believe it has a slot for an nvme drive but tbh i told justin i wouldnt give it a fair shake so i dont have one lol
justin and trevor joked on a livestream once
i plead the fifth
😆
Checking before I go looking around... Apollo doesn't make a PIR sensor, correct?
no with our tests the mmwave was just as fast so no added PIR made sense
if your wifi sucks then it will be delayed tho
tbh i dont think we're really doing anything special there
any ld2410b or ld2450 with similar antenna design would react the same unless airtime fairness was an issue (aka waiting its turn to talk)
however the built in antenna on our boards is a lot better for me than my cheap esp8266/esp32 boards from amazon
Okay then.... anyone have a recommendation on a battery-powered PIR sensor?
either aqara p1 (zigbee 3.0) or hue
aqara p1
hue is more expensive and older and i like my p1
i'd probably buy 3x p1 over 1x hue given the prices
but the hue have 4year+ battery life and still work really well lol
I was wondering if combining the MTR and MSR into one device would be worthwhile, benefit of the better zone detection of the MTR and the better still detection of the MSR.
tbh it could be done with the gpio header addon as a test iirc
There's also the Develco "mini" PIR, that takes AA batteries, and has a temperature sensor, plus decent lux sensor
Not cheap though
the current most requested sensor is an all in one air-1 and msr-2 iirc but the idea of a multi-mmwave-sensor is kinda cool too
The older IR sensor products are huge compared to the MSR-2
like it could have one direction for msr-2 style and one direction for mtr-1 style
the msr-2 is legitimately a small device it's wild
yup
i have like 3 or 4 now. i really like them
it's just hard to find outlets everywhere you want to put one /sigh
fancy leviton usb-c outlets
i installed a few for a client a month or so ago
it was for leds but they'd work for apollo too
in the pic- msr-1, msr-2, mtr-1, msr-2 with outlet mount, outlet itself, then dev-1 at the bottom
bonus toes*
did you get a modeling fee for the toes?
it's in my contract 
yeah i'm feeling like it's time to redesign that bathroom anyway 😛
the wall opposite the sink could definitely use a USB charging hub
between now and next summer im redoing a ton of insulation in a crawl space attic and i think im gonna go crazy with rewiring things too
i want one above the crapper for a homepod mini to plug into
just don't tell Trevor i remodeled my house to fit his products, k?
( or Justin ... not sure which does the EE )
trevor is the mad scientist
justin is employed by apollo full time now and builds 100% of the sensors in-house and handles all the printers etc
5x bambu printers 24/7 iirc
so trevor->design, justin->production ?
https://apolloautomation.com/pages/our-team w/e it says here lol
later dude drive safe
I'm not entirely sure if this is the right channel, but it didn't quite seem like DIY. I just put in some new zigbee Smart switches to control my entryway and front porch lights. The front porch light as you can see in the video has a small problem when the switch is off. The root cause is that I have no neutral wire, so the phantom draw to keep the radio running is just enough power to make the light flicker when the light is off. When it's on it works just fine. What's the best suggestion for how to address this?
This is more #zigbee-archived , but you should look at different smart switches, You should also make sure that whatever switch you get can support dimming with the specific bulb/led in the light shown in your video. There are some zigbee switches that don’t require neutrals.
It's not a dimming issue, because this isn't a dimmable light. It's just an ultra low voltage and I suspecting it needs like a load or a capacitor to level the power. I will cross post it over to the other channel though
The crazy part was unless I was looking to spend such an exorbitant amount of money as to make the project impractical, I couldn't find alternatives. Even these were almost twice as expensive as ones with neutral capability
Include what you purchased/where you (country) are in the cross post
Great, now I'm going to get bullied. It was Moes which is basically tuya
Hot dang that's a lot of filament to go through, I have 2 bambus and when I need them going 24/7, they burn through filament like there's no tomorrow
Also they're amazing work horses for that sort of work
Morning all, looking at a 10 room setup each with lighting , blinds, hvac, media devices , Alexa installed in
I was thinking a raspberry pi 5 with ssd, but was wondering if anyone had any input on a better control unit ?
The standard response is a small form factor PC, second hand
Any particular reason, or just in general better performance ?
Well, the Pi range historically has been ... not great. The Pi5 may finally be decent, on an SSD, but at that point you're in second hand SFF PC costs
PC performs better
More stable too
That’s fair !
I do have an old nuc that’s being flashed as a secondary HA host, purely as a second zigbee server in garage, going to try use the HACS remote assistant add on for that , but yeah I’ll Amazon myself another nuc in that case for the main controller
Couldn’t see any other hardware that has the ability to connect onto the network as a zap unless I’ve missed anything, would happily be told otherwise on that one
ZAP?
ZigBee Access Point
Well, for that you buy a #zigbee-archived coordinator - see the pins in that channel
FWIW, I thought I'd share... I recently setup a Lenovo SFF m920s (i7 8700, 32GB ram, nvme and SSD, 10gb nic) test HASS machine and it uses on average 24w
Is it a bare metal install?
Hey, looking for cheap wifi speakers since I am just getting started with home assistant and want to test a few things.
I came across "blaupunkt pmr 100" with Chrome cast for just 30€.
Anyone knows if this speaker works with HA? I have HA installed via docker on my NAS.
Yes
Prior to having HASS on it it was an ESX7 server, used around 35w on average
What made you decide to switch to bare metal? My guess is that a lot of it is the 10GbE NIC.
Haven't made the switch yet but I'm trying to reduce power consumption.
Currently I have HASS running on ESX on a Dell r730. The r730 runs a bunch of stuff (milestone camera system, emby, domain controllers, etc) but uses a little over 200w
After trying to get a MMWave radar to work together with the bluetooth proxy/bermuda thing and a temperature sensor, I think I will just give up and buy some 4 FP2 or something lol
wish the ecobee sensors I already have weren't literal garbage
What are you trying to do exactly? That seems like a complicated mess.
I was trying to do a single box with an esp32 and temperature/humidity/PIR/mmWave sensors, and that would also double as a proxy for bermuda/BLE Presense stuff. Turns out all of those have specific problems and requirements 😄
Yyyeeeaaahhh… that’s a lot for a single device. I’m not saying it can’t be done, but I would keep them separate. Like, the Apollo sensors CAN do all that, but the board temp seems to run really hot when doing all that at once. lol
we would run into compile errors with space for all of those esphome components
i used to think you could pretty much do w/e you wanted on an esp but really you are limited based on what all you can save onto it lol
Huh, I thought it could without the PIR stuff. But everything else is already there, no? Just not exposed through the YAML?
we have to disable logger and ble proxy to be able to have improv-ble then after they get adopted to esphome dashboard they lose the improv-ble so they can have room for ble proxy or logger or w/e other stuff people want to add
MSR-2.yaml: This file is a minimal config. It doesn't have the bluetooth or OTA components. Use this if you are looking to add BLE proxy or BLE tracking.
MSR-2_BLE.yaml: This file contains BLE proxy code. We use it as an automated test during our build process. But can be an example for adding BLE proxy to your device.
MSR-2_Factory.yaml: This is the firmware flashed by us on new devices. It contains the components for ESP improve, allowing easy adoption in Home Assistant. When you load the device in ESPHome addon, it will grab the firmware from MSR-2.yaml which no longer has the improve.
```jesse from esphome helped trevor set this up
That's crazy, but also good to know.
Yeah there's a bunch of stuff interacting there.
- The more stuff you put, the hotter the esp32 gets and so the temperature/humidty gets affected
- THen you try to lower the Wifi power to have less heat but the BLE gets unreliable
- And then you find out that PIR sensors sometimes are triggered by wifi frequencies
it's a mess 😄
so I will get separate sensors for stuff
what brings me to my comment about the ecobee sensors that I have here. They never react to motion or presence in any decent time
well they take 30 minutes to reset after being triggered so they are pretty much useless for that purpose
$10 inkbird BLE temp/humidity sensors are the way to go i think
The ecobee sensors are really ONLY good for room temp calibration. That's it.
even then they are $50 each they arent any better than a $5-10 ble sensor plus ecobees do temp only
i own multiple i dont think they're any better than my xaiomi bt or inkbird ble
I got 2 with the thermostat and they are garbage
hey folks, is there any way to flash a firmware to skyconnct without using chrome?
Then #zigbee-archived can help you, and no you don't need Chrome
cool
Check the pins there too 😉
for sure
chromium based browser is required for esp webflasher because firefox/mozilla choose not to implement it
but you can flash things other ways but tbh you should prob go for the easiest route which is the webflasher
I used a cli tool.
cool
nah I'd rather not use any chrome-based browser
hello friends, is anyone aware of a security camera which has a physical cover of some sort?
i'd like for the cover to be movable remotely, so that you can uncover the camera if needed but it is still obvious when the camera is covered/uncovered
i know it might sound a little silly since if someone had access they could uncover it as well, but it'd be nice to have a physical way to tell at least
i guess i could just get one of those ones that can turn around
Hey i have a problem with my broadlink rm4 pro. Got it on wifi via the app but when I click on it to go to the settings to unlock it says initialization failed. Tried rebooting etc and it just says the same
Hi friends. Posted in general yesterday, and was told to also come and post here.
I am new to this, with a brand new home (2 floors, 4 bedrooms, 120m2) that I want to put on home assistant. The only thing I have right now, is a laptop with HAOS installed. I have some IT background so I think I can do this work myself.
I am looking to buy ... everything? I'm not sure exactly where to start. Is there anyone here that built their system up recently that can maybe share a list of basic items needed?
For lights, the only thing currently 'smart' in my plan is the philips hue TV LED strip with a sync box. I'm sure this can talk to HA and I can google the setup. Almost all other lights I will get would be dumb (would be lucky if my wife allows smart stuff but this is my current understanding). So, to make a dumb light with HOPEFULLY temperature control smart, what do I need. I read a lot and I am just plain confused. Smart switch, smart relay, dimmer? What do I need to order and what brand to make my dumb stuff smart?
Also, Zigbee vs wifi vs zwave vs thread vs ... I think I want to start with one protocol. What should I pick considering battery life and extensibility/options? Zigbee is what I have read on but what do you suggest? And do I need somethign to connect to my HA laptop for it to pick up zigbee or other signals? I am looking to get Wifi Mesh so in addition, what do I need to have my server start connecting into all these devices?
I know a lot to unpack here but very very beginner here and all the youtube stuff I've seen seems to promote their own brand/homes which are waay to advanced for me to work with.
Where in the world are you?
In Ireland
For anywhere other than North America #zigbee-archived is the sane, affordable choice. At least as long as you don't live in a flat.
I'm in a 2 floor house, 4 bedrooms. should've mntioned in the post, let me edit it now
Zigbee shares the 2.4 GHz band with WiFi and Bluetooth (and Thread), so in flats doesn't always work
I don't think there'd be a case of .. i dunno, signal saturation if everything is on 2.4g? sounds unlikely
#zigbee-archived has pins with everything you need to know, but basically:
- ZHA (part of HA) or Zigbee2MQTT (separate) - largely personal pref
- A coordinator (radio)
- A bunch of devices that act as Zigbee routers (most mains powered Zigbee devices are)
Open up a WiFi scanner on your phone and see how saturated things are
For lighting, smart switches work as people expect, if you want smart bulbs (for temperature) you'll need to ensure they have power all the time
I'd imagine Zigbee mqtt would probably need a different setup, reading up on it just now kind of made me think this? Where as ZHA just gets installed in HA locally. Probably setting up a diff server or container for zigbee mqtt? Or am i wrong? Seems like power users prefer mqtt vs newbs going for zha
There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:
zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended (though the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset), but there are other options including the CC2652 based sticks. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented.
Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively. As of 1.15 has a native UI, and it also uses MQTT for control and configuration. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the recommended option being the [CC2652 based sticks](#zigbee-archived message). If you want to use an EmberZNet stick see this issue. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and as of 1.35.0 now has opportunistic support similar to ZHA. This change has simplified adding support for new devices.
deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are supported. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
Thanks again. Can you explain this a bit more? I am looking at two chandliers that are LED, and support temperature control out of the box? Have a remote control with them. How do I connect this, as an example, to HA? I was thinking a smart switch linked to it, but i'm still not sure how the temperature part would work
Well... that depends on the make and model of that device
There's thousands of brands with tens of thousands of ways of controlling them, and many you can't
And hopefully that doesn't mention Tuya or Smart Life 😄
What do I need to look at, to ensure it would work for me? Is there a guide you could point me to, at all? Or should I look only for zigbee/wifi options that have that connectivity? I am sure you could connect it but it might require a lot of tinkering I'd imagine
Zigbee will work
Z-Wave will work
WiFi may work, but probably won't
If it mentions HomeKit you're good. If there's a dedicated integration or custom integration you're good.
If it mentions Tuya or Smart Life then walk away
Oh, and if it mentions Matter then you're good too
And if it's neither of the two, and ONLY has dimming function, can I buy it and connect it to a Relay? Smart switch? and get it working with my HA?
Again, depends on the make and model of the device
There's no easy answer for everything
I thought, per youtube (maybe it exaggerates), that you can make 'any' dumb device smart with a relay 🥹
But thanks for the details. I think I have some idea now on what to look for in my search queries
A thank you to the Home Assistant team for fixing the Intel Dual Band Wireless 7260-MQUPIN Intel 7260.HMW Dual Band Wireless WiFi Card AC-7260 Network Adapter+Bluetooth 4.0 USE for Intel AC Half Mini Pcie Card 802.11 b/a/g/n/ac which I believe was fixed by Home Assistant OS 13.1
I'm testing it now and it seems to work properly for the first time ever 🙂
Hi. It depends on how much rewiring you want or are qualified to do. Remember, this is still electricity and it can cause fires or electrocution if you get into hardwired changes. That's may theoretically be what the YT you mentioned meant.
There's a difference between compatibility and re-engineering.
Hi, can you provide some basic information on which hardware is best to run HA on it? Raspberry, mini PC? Something not too pricey, since I'm an absolute beginner. I want to make my 40 year old house somewhat smart and look for not too complex solutions. I'm sitting in Germany, have wifi and would like to start with shutters and lights. Thanks!
PS: feel free to post websites, I can browse myself, I'm just so clueless, I don't even know where to start...
Small form factor PC, maybe even second hand
This channel's history (HP, Dell, Beelink, etc for search terms) should have loads of links
What's a form factor PC 🫣
I'm an engineer with some idea ich technology but by no means it expert ...
Great. Thanks!
any other alternatives for a honeywell t9? price kinda gone up. 150 cad and zigbee. amazon.ca and homedepot preferred store i want to get it from.
when factory resetting a broadlink rm4 pro the blue light should steadily blink fast correct? not the 4 blinks then pause
anyone have a preferred way of getting a notification? I just put a PIR sensor outside my front door so I can get notified when mail arrives, but I'm not sure of the best way to get the notification... am considering a zigbee bulb to change color and a button to reset the color.
I already have too many notifications on my phone, I don't hear them at this point.
I use a combination of persistent notifications, critical phone notifications, TTS and bulbs and then have a stupidly complex script that checks a bunch of vars (presence, room presence, etc) and defines severity and decides how to deliver them.
I wouldn’t recommend this to anyone. lol
I am trying to change 8 ZigBee thermostats in my home. Ordered nspanel pro, but upon arrival I noticed that it does not have external line out connection :-(. I could workaround that with additional ZigBee switches, but I want that it should work in home assistant blackout
So now I ordered simple nspanel. It definitely has line out to trigger my floor heating valves. But there are too many approaches customizing nspanel and integrating to HA. nspanel blueprint
NSPanel Lovelace UI
Nspanel manager
Tasmota way
Which should I choose to have a nice working 8 thermostats which could be easily updated and work in case of ha blackout?
Edit: chosed esphome ha blueprint. So far so good
Do you need a cooling case for a raspberry pi 4 for homeassistant?
If it were needed it would come with it. Might help though.
Ok
Could you install it on an android phone and then later upgrade to a raspberry with a backup?
In theory but why would you install it on a phone? Get proper hardware.
I have on laying around and currently want to save a little money
You will not have a good time.
Oh
I also have an old laptop, would that be a significant improvement?
Some Lenovo laptop nothing crazy
but how old brah
But like 8gb ram
Intel core i3 10th gen
that will be great
Oh nice
Ok thank you
you can install haos bare metal if you want but frankly it's kind of a bitch to install lol
and with proxmox you get quite a bit of useful features and a full OS to troubleshoot if something goes wrong
That’s nice
Ugh. Tore apart my ceiling fan last night, so I could take a look at the fan direction toggle switch. It's a 2p2t... basically, it's reversing L & N to the yellow and pink wires. I can't use a Shelly 2.5 or whatever on it, even though it has two relays, I'd have no way to set N to one or the other.
Should i go with Shelly relays (DIN) with Wifi/BT or with Z-Wave? I am counting how much of this i will need for a house but not sure which way to go to make it "easier?". I am going to use HomeAssistant for most of the integration...
Z-Wave always seemed like it would lose out to wifi/bt to me. I mean, it will linger on for years, but I don't see the point unless you're already invested in Z-wave hardware.
I don't have anything yet besides my TrueNAS and pfSense router. I am in the preparation phase of this "project".
Yeh, you'll discover alot more interesting devices that aren't z-wave. I doubt that there's some IoT doodad that's only available with that radio, or that the z-wave version will be cheaper than the wifi version.
Superb, thanks. Yea i found some z-wave gadgets which mi might use but nothing crucial/serious. So Wifi/BT it is then.
And second question. I am about to plug all of my lights/switches and some of my wall powersockets to Shelly relays. In such case do i need the "smart" switches (pure on/off, i would go "smart" for the dimming ones) or would that be redundant? My expectation is that if HomeAssistant goes down (server maintenance or simple crash) i can still turn on my lights the "dumb way" by flipping the switch. I already read stuff how to retain both "smart" and "physical" functionality with shelly, that part is clear to me. The question is if i gain any benefit by going shelly relays + smart (so more expensive) switches.
no
zigbee/zwave are still king
wifi here and there same with BT but definitely not wifi/bt preferred
what country you live in determines a lot of products you have access to
central europe
rip
😄
you'll prob end up wanting a bunch of zigbee 3.0 aqara gear
shelly are popular if you go wifi just dont overload them people seem to do that a lot
i think you'd really go relays+smart bulbs/fixtures not relays+switches
the relays take the place of switches
Overload? Wifi AP itself or just "HA going wild with managing 50 relays" ? I am planning Ubiquiti/UniFi APs with one SSID dedicated to all of this smart-stuff. Network-wise whatever can be on cable will be on cable (going with 10G LAN).
none of the above i mean sometimes they get firey
but ya in general i dont love stacking a ton of clients on a wifi AP even if they arent talking
home assistant can handle all the things
lots of unifi APs also sounds good
Ah, electrical overload ... well not good if relays catching fire ...
i seem to see lots of that^
Does anyone have suggestions for a smart locking doorknob? I want to be able to keep the door to my office locked when I travel, but need to be able to unlock it remotely if needed.
What were they doing, plugging in 10kW industrial machinery to it?
ya it could easily be self inflicted
Thought that was like for, I dunno, a single lightbulb.
Had to scroll far too far to find them actually saying what they were powering: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/18vysvn/x/kfue7zl/
Resistive heater, so at least can cross of "big fuck-off inductive load inrush current"
sheit ...
ya this one
but the comments on the post like the top comment chain
it just seems to be prevalent or people are sure loud about it
Ah, these are the tiny relays to be placed behind the switch to usually very tiny space. Well i hope the DIN version will not have that "high" risk of catchign fire (there is always some risk ofc). More space around.
Few days i go i read a blog post about Loxone catching fire as well
Does feel like there's a bit of survivorship bias going on (not that it makes it less troubling, but might explain the postings).
There's an equally probable chance that all of these things have a nonzero failure rate, but no-one posts about "random Chinese no-name relay" because everyone would tell them "duh, what did you expect" or "well they don't sell that anymore anyway".
Shelly, being larger and more prominent, you can reasonably go out and buy the same thing they're talking about.
(personally, I have a single Shelly 1 Mini G3 which is switching around 150W / 0.65A of LED lights, so absolutely not enough data to comment further than that)
Anything "powered" can catch fire. Last year I plugged my car charger and i got a crack sound + smoke out of it... The fuse blew a second after that but still ... luckily i was on parking lot so i grabbed that thing and threw it out of the vehicle. And it was not a "cheap chinesse $1,99" charger. It was Anker or something like that ...
I can say the random Chinese no-name modules have smaller gauge wires, and other cost-cutting issues that sometimes look worrisome. The RF ceiling fan module that came with my fan has like 14ga coming out of it, and the Sonoff I put in the living room had I don't know what. They were anorexic.
I had a Samsung charger that blew the motherboard in my laptop (fortunately got repaired). Absolutely happens. And I've let the magic smoke out of enough servers (in normal operation) than I can count on my fingers
Shelly has several UL listed modules, those are probably pretty decent.
Not that this means they won't catch fire, just that your homeowner's insurance won't deny the claim if they find them in the ruins afterward.
Oh, that is very valid point, thanks for that. I mean, in general (Shelly or others)
So, there are a few esp32 dpdt relay boards, the relays even have markings in the picture indicating they'll do 120VAC. But none of them seem to have fewer than about 8 of them, and they're all like 10" or longer.
hey guys, anysuggestions for zigbee repeaters?
Also, I don't think that they power off of AC, that might just be for the relays... I don't have 5vdc inside the ceiling fan.
and a quick question, zigbee sensors that work on battery works as repeaters?
Buy a power plug or something useful that can act as router.
No. Battery devices, to my knowledge, cannot act as routers. Also #zigbee-archived.
and smart mini switches inside the walls?
they connect straight to the wires
oh sorry
Most mains powered things do but there are exceptions.
My electric meter is zigbee. But my electric company doesn't let customers access it.
Supposedly the water meters were going to be switched over to that too, but I have no idea how that's supposed to work.
Im using a laptop for home assistant, is there a way to make the fans quieter?
The fans aren't controlled by HA.
Likely depends on your install method, if you can run shell commands and you can set the speed of your fans via the shell, then https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/shell_command/ should do it, I do similar for a hard drive enclosure.
Okay thanks
Does anyone know of a relay with a remote wireless switch combination that doesn't rely on a ZigBee or WiFi network, but is supported by HA?
WiFi or ZigBee is fine, it should just work without. Ideally available in the UK
Most light product focused relays do that
The remote however is kinda the odd thing
ZigBee theoretically can do those kind of device binds but I don't think it's that common besides actual lamps. For other connectivity the pair of wifi/zigbee + rf probably isn't done a whole lot either
As part of the separate SSID you'll want to setup VLANs for IoT and NoT devices. There are some good tutorials on YouTube and elsewhere to show how to do that.
quick question: if I was to get an Inovelli Zigbee switch and wire it up without a neutral in smart bulb mode, would it act as a Zigbee router?
I know that no neutral setups from other providers act as end devices, but that's because there's a possibility that they'll be turned off and drop traffic. If it's in smart bulb mode, the switch should be powered 24/7, allowing for it to act as a router, right?
Yea, absolutely. My ricecooker has no business on my NAS ^^ . From network perspective i have (almost) clear plan. I'll use what i have currently but extend it with more Unifi APs and i will need to re-do some subnets (as some collide with some VPN connections, it is PITA to work around that). But thanks for response!
Now the last thing i need to figure out is to where the F i place the relay/fuse box as it will be much much bigger than the one i have in my apartment.
Keep in mind that HA will probably need to be on the same VLAN/subnet as all the IoT kit
what are some good smart plugs that work with home assistant
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
In regards to the shelly catching fire, 14a is a lot to ask of screw down terminals. If you must run 14a, at least use some bootlace ferulles.
But if I had a 14a load, I'd run a shelly and a contactor.
at least the contactor will have heavy duty clamps
Seeed SenseCAP Watcher ???
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/seeed/sensecap-watcher-open-source-ai-assistant-for-smarter-spaces?ref=nav_search&result=project&term=seeed&total_hits=7
whats the best wall tablet youd suggest? id like oled but it will run 24/7 would like something sort of cheap
Are the ZigBee binds local then? I.E they work when the coordinator is down?
They kinda exist so that no coordinator in that kinda sense would be needed
Like you get this on Ikea and if I recall hue lamps
It's not necessarily a wide spread feature
That's interesting to know, thanks. Unfortunately it doesn't help in this scenario because they'll be emergency light fittings so no chance of swapping bulbs
Oh so you want those bulbs be switched
I could imagine you could diy a solution with a smart relay but instead of using a switch you use these inputs from a secondary relay which does it's job on RF or IR or something
I don't have an answer to this but providing budget and location are gonna be necessary for anybody who has insight to give you one, I think there's a pinned message with other recommended details too (IIRC the cheaper/budget rec is often a fire tablet?)
It's complicated 🙂 I need a permanent live and a switched live in the fitting, but the only feed to the fitting is switched. No permanent live there.
So the idea would be, rewire the wiring behind the switch to make it a permanent feed, then create the switched feed with relay in the fitting + remote switch.
But ideally it should work when HA etc is down.
I wonder if Tasmota can create an AP and a client if the WiFis gone
So you want it to be remote controlled when ha isn't on
Or whatever the network driving part may be
Pretty much.
I could imagine that Shelly's can do that
The plugs at least can be set to both be part of a wifi and have a hotspot either when not connected or permanently
Gotcha i have been trying to see which tablet can last a long time always on but its so up in the air
Displays that enjoy that kinda don't exist on consumer devices
You want to put it on something that puts it to sleep after a while / with no presence or simply black it out
ah yeah didnt know that! ill check pinned. so galaxy device is prolly bad idea?
this is all that is pinned?
galaxy device?
i was thinking a galaxy tablet mount it to the wall
Why would that be bad if done right
i think your saying would not be bad if done right? or would be bad? lol But yes my thoughts were that same it would look good and i could make it go to sleep or something
It's an acceptable solution
Just make sure to keep the battery protection mode on if available on your device
That's usually what fails first if you don't buy special units without
cool ty!
US 🇺🇸
no more than 10$/plug
wifi (slightly confused as to what zigbee and z wave are
just need to be able to turn something on and off (although power monitoring would be nice)
10 bucks is a bit tight fit buying proper ones
how much would i be looking to spend?
i don't need anything fancy
Probably more like 13-17
Hi James. I installed a lenovo M-10. Great aesthetics (aprox US$170). With Fully Kiosk (aprox US$8) you can control the activation with motion/face detection (I use the later).
Most will offer monitoring, there aren't that many ones without
Shelly and Wiz are probably good, tp link has tapo which is probably still fine
i found some from kasa, not sure if they're good or not
Theoretically other brands like innr are also alright if the plugs are esp32 based with tasmota
The EP25 is Kasa’s latest Apple HomeKit supported WiFi mini smart plug that supports 15A maximum load, with Energy Monitoring. You can use it to control lamps, fans, humidifiers, and other home electronic appliances while monitoring each device’s energy consumption. You can also control your plug...
i also looked at the tapo plugs
I'm not sure how the kasa line differs to those
hm alright
Hey ty! Lemme ask this do you have to do anything special for power to save display or battery? Or do you just run 24/7
I really wanna use Samsung tablets the OLED ones just wanna make sure it'll work not have to be replaced 2 years from now
I just got two Fire HD 10 tablets and they're working well with Fully Kiosk Plus, but they were also a good deal at $90. I see they're now $150
I have it running 24/7 but Fully Kiosk Plus turns the screen off if no one in front using face detection. In the night I press the on/off button to activate the tablet back. Just to clarify, Fully Kiosk is a browser so no companion app install necessary. You can install if you want (I have it installed for admin access from the tablet)
About battery saving, you can activate battery saving in android (charges to 60% max) or use a smart switch and automation to charge in the range you want (companion app gives you the required entities)
I want to use swear words..... I want to say stuff which would probably not only get me kicked from this channel or server, ot would not only get me kicked out of discord but rather prevent me from ever emitting any kind of info ever again. to make it short, ikeas window/door sensors are getting on my nerves.... i replaced the battery in them countlessly they seem to drain them randomly completely (i even got really really expensive lithium aa batteries (non rechargeble) .... still some seem to just randomly drain the battery and yeah...i am a bit.... stressed this makes the waf of my setup close to zero "oh why can't i see which windows are open?".... please anyone for the love of god and all that is holy ...help me!"
tbh not sure if they are aa or aaa ( i got the right ones) i am not at home right now just noticed that some of them are aparently not working... again
sorry i will continue my rant in #zigbee-archived
did you ever get t10 remote sensors to work with homekit? im trying to go closed network and get rid of the Honeywell website token
is it worth spending extra money on a matter plug?
maybe, maybe not
it depends on the plug but id generally say it may be to early to be a required feature
Sonoff P or E for z2m? I want to spin up a separate HA instance and see how z2m works
Ikea states their new sensors should be using rechargeable 1.2v. that's what I use and have not experienced any heavy battery drain since installing any
Anyone has any experience with those ?
NOUS P3Z, ZigBee Light Bulb E27 LED Warm White, RGB Dimmable Light Bulb Lamp with Remote Control, Decorative Light Bulb Accessories, Compatible with Alexa Echo, Hue Bridge, Tuya, Google Home https://amzn.eu/d/0uXH5kw
Sie suchen eine smarte Glühbirne e27 dimmbar, die Ihnen mehr Farbe und Komfort in Ihr Zuhause bringt? Dann ist die Nous P3Z ZigBee RGB led glühbirne genau das Richtige für Sie. Diese led lampen ist nicht nur ein leistungsstarkes Leuchtmittel, sondern auch ein vielseitiges Alexa Zubehör, das Ihnen...
ah ok ty!
Yes, I have my T11 Pro with 8 room sensors through HomeKit, each sensor shows up under HomeKit\THERMOSTAT and has Humidity, Motion, and Temp. The main thermostat also has it's own device with Climate control, Humidity, Occupancy, and Temp.
is this apple homekit or is it HA virtual one? im using virtual and it detects the T10 and all relevant data, but not the connected room sensor
but room sensor shows if i use the residio app, or connect to the Honeywell auth APIs via HA
oh wait, you said T11?
I think my martin jerry tasmota switch isn't happy having a fan connected to it. It's rebooting from time to time and I think it's because of heat
Software reset digital core
I will probably buy completely new ones and destroy my 20 IKEA sensors....lesson learned... do not buy IKEA parasoll 200 bucks down the drain
Odd because I literally use those. No issues. I have all 3 of their new sensors.
If you do a quick Google search you'll find that I am by no means the only one with this problem
These are the batteries I use https://a.co/d/28ejM8K
Which firmware do yours gave
Firmware: 0x01000019
Odd that's the old one
I used the laada from ikea
And those
20 Stück Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Micro Batteries 1.5 V 1260 mAh L92 https://amzn.eu/d/2gtqxCH
Me too
Then how did you update?
I just read that there is an update I did not get it myself as my guess is that you need the ikea hub/bridge for the update
With the Energizer batteries (no rechargeable) the seem to keep the charge a little longer...but by far not what they should do (at least a year)
Interesting. I don't know if I'll be buying a $60 hub just to update these
Same
I am going to run z2m separately. Maybe an update is on there.
okay, since nobody answered, i just got it to test it.
Blaupunkt pmr 100 Working like a charm and quite cheap at the moment on amazon.
Getting a few more to install in different rooms.
Also, stick to 1.2v rechargeable. The instructions clearly stated 1.2v and ive read a lot of bad reviews from people not abiding by that.
That's all I can offer besides testing your hardware myself
I am very sorry I have the exact thing running works like a charm
Well I'll try 1.2v rechargeable the ladda from ikea are 750mAh
Hello, does anyone have a recommendation for a thread smart lock available in Australia? Preferably with a numeric keypad and handle. Thanks 🙂
I'm located in Germany. I have electric shutters with simple push button switch. I'd like an adapter thingy to mount under the switch. Which ones work best with HA? I'm starting from scratch with the whole smart Home topic, so I'm open to anything. (Not too pricey, though 🫣)
You mean those two buttons - one to open and one to close, right?
The Shelly Plus 2PM (WiFi - there will be a new Gen3 soon) or the Shelly Qubino Wave Shutter (Z-Wave) have support for shutters.
Or the Aqara Dual Relais Modul T2 (Zigbee)
I believe I added mine through the virtual one but it could be through the real HomeKit.
Exactly! Thanks! Notes taken.
On mid range I want to install Paulmann lights, which use zigbee, too. Can the those interfere with the zigbee Aqara?
They usually strengthen the Zigbee network
Hi everyone 🙂 I have small question regarding ESPHome, because I don't understand something. I created new configuration for my device and I installed software via USB cable but I also configured WiFi connection. After uploading the software, disconnecting the device from the power supply and reconnecting it to power in ESPHome dashboard I see new device.. my original configuration is offline but I see new discovered device and I see ADOPT button. Is it normal? In many tutorials on YT, after uploading software and restart device, I don't see anyone discovering a new device..
restart haos it probably is just confused cuz the hostname changed
maybe just restarting the esphome dashboard addon/container is enough
Thanks for replay, probably I have a problem because I set this flag to true name_add_mac_suffix: true. Now I testing what happen if I set this flag to false 🙂
It’s not a problem it’s just like I said the hostname changed so mdns got fucky with esphome dashboard
“Fucky”… lol is that a technical term?
if im allowed to quote myself, yes
lmao I like it
I can confirm, that this is a reason why ESPHome recognise new device after restart device 🙂
MSR-2 or MTR-1 from Apollo? I don't have an use case for/know what I would use a multi target radar so that doesn't really applies on the decision
msr-2 ld2410b mmwave sensor inside of it is better for "still" detection
basically you can tweak it to care about moving energy and still energy at multiple predefined gates 1-8 and put those gates in zones (1-3) and then automate on energy in those gates
noice
I need something I can use to ignore a ceiling fan
that one doesn't have humidity right
this will detect the air currents but can be tuned out
In this follow-up video, Andre delves into the Radar Engineering Mode for the mmwave presence sensing module (HLK-LD2410B) in the Apollo Automation MSR-1, including examples and demonstrations of how to tune out extraneous movements that may falsely detect presence.
Apollo Automation Store: https://bit.ly/49Xuzyw
Follow us on our socials, com...
that's.... sensitive 😄
5min video showing how to tune out a fan
but ideally you place it without a fan vs having to tune it out
that's a hot looking engineer on that video
https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/msr-2/page/general-tips some info here on mounting
MSR-2
Light Sensor (LTR-390UV)
When mounting the MSR-2 be sure to position the device so tha...
what do you mean place it without a fan
like low enough on the wall that doesn't hits the fan?
hits as in sees
Tuning for a ceiling fan has been the most fun/frustrating thing I've done with the MSR-2. lol
how's the room temperature reading on those?
Part of tuning out the fan's air current (for me at least) has been learning to hide the sensors in places where they can't really "see" the air currents very well along with gate tuning. Like putting it in a cabinet or behind a wall or under a couch/bed.
Ummmmm, ish-y. You can adjust it, but the inital readings can be wonky at first.
probably adding an dht 11 on the gpio header works better then
But after you tune them in, they are usually pretty good. But because the ESP board itself gets warm, it sometimes bleeds over to the onboard temp sensor.
Yup. That could work as well.
yeah, probably will do that then
k, got 4 MSR-2 coming
really wish there was already a way to replace tasmota with ESPHome via OTA that didn't include a lot of steps and prone to errors
It uses a proprietary mezzanine connector instead of exposed pins / solder pads
I can addon a gpio header for you to test with if you give me an order #
https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/general/page/how-to-use-the-apollo-gpio-header-to-control-an-led-strip I made a tutorial on using it but it’s basically just a gpio breakout of sorts
This tutorial will guide you through setting up one of our MSR-2 devices (works with any mezzanine...
ah sure enough i didnt look my bad
one user used an SHT-45 and 3d printed a little case for it
I have some DHTs around already but maybe. I don't want them to be on the same case because temps
https://discord.com/channels/1126966963206361199/1238644093517561926 here's his post in apollo discord
Hi everyone, i just bought this cover switch and it is actually not supported by Zigbee2MQTT. The device is connected and i can open/close my cover (a good start), but now i want to apply the Support new devices so it can be add in a next update for everyone but it is a little bit hard for me to do it alone so i am looking for some help.
I join a picture of what i have in debug when i press a button for example.
Can someone help me plz ?
Image
Perhaps there is an other explanation procedure somewhere else
ask the nerds in #zigbee-archived
ok ty
Anyone know of a smart plug (zigbee or zwave, USA, no budget) that has usb c ports instead of a traditional outlet?
I have seen them on Ali, they aren't uncommon
Tried searching but having a hard time getting a recommendation.
I'm in the UK and I'm looking for a low cost option for an alarm system, currently running HA on a Pi 3B(had one lying around).
I sent a Eufy system back as I'm going to go for a Reo POE doorbell.
I'm looking for keypad/3 motion sensors and outdoor siren. Considered DIY but I'm not sure on the reliability, am I over thinking it? Haven't written off Ring as I'd love to be local only but I'm kinda passed all that if the price is good.
I have Audioengine A1-MR in the living room and kitchen, so would like to trigger them with HA on the alarm.
Any thoughts/recommendations?
so you have nothing currently installed?
i would just DIY it with alarmo.. that's what i'm currently doing and a lot of others are using it as their only alarm as well
basically you feed it a bunch of sensors of your choosing (such as aqara zigbee door/window sensors) and then you tell it when to include them for home/away/custom alarm modes
i have home assistant automatically arm away mode when i leave and disarm when i get back
Yeah I have nothing currently. I could use the Ring keypad with z-wave to arm/disarm it right? (The family won't want to use an app)
That is very tempting. Is there any real pro to using the property bases?
i have a ring keypad v2 joined to a zwave mesh it works great
property bases?
in the usa you can get insurance discounts for home insurance if you have it with a big alarm company with cellular backup
idk how that works in uk
Like the ring base station etc
idk i go out of my way to avoid ring like the plague
the ring keypad v2 is the only device of theirs i'll ever buy or suggest lol
You've sold me, I'll have a think tomorrow. Thank you!
i would suggest aqara door/window sensors
ideally the newer zigbee 3.0 "e1" variant
but i use the old ones and on sale they are like $5-$8 each on aliexpress
https://github.com/ImSorryButWho/HomeAssistantNotes/blob/main/RingKeypadV2.md i use this blueprint with the keypad v2 btw
Has anyone tried using a a large Waveshare touchscreen with a Raspberry Zero 2 W as a Kiosk for Home Assistant instead of a tablet?
juice isnt worth the squeeze
aqara good but if you keep it far from a zigbee router, the connection isnt very good and it will disconnect.
that's good advice for any battery powered zigbee device though
my ikea ones that use a AAA compared to the aqara which uses a coin battery....the ikea have way better range and doesnt time out. just from my short testing.
which was on a mailbox across the street
i have all the zigbee routers
i use an aqara door/window sensor on my mailbox too lol
it uses a hue bulb outside to jump back
but if i had to go really far i would use a zooz 800 long range door/window sensor
the aqara on my mailbox didnt last 1 hour before it disconnected. the ikea sensor has been 100% uptime since i put it in months ago
i have a sonoff in the window for it too
do you do anything creative? i make all my nest speakers play "you've got mail"
Plays the old AOL you’ve got mail for me on the speakers lol
interesting. my way to the audio file is different
actually i think it's broken
well, copy/paste mine
It’s just the explicit path versus the media browser path.
What are you kids breaking now?
Does anyone have experience with this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007022197993.html
Both WiFi and ZigBee versions are viable? It's more likely to get better connection to WiFi than ConBee
only thing i'd add my 2cents to is that i was reminded that TUYA stuff sometimes wrecks zigbee networks and it can be a hit or miss if it decides to play nice
Hey I want to build a nice color touchscreen wifi thermostat with a temp and humidity sensor.
Has anyone first hand experience with the Lanbon L8 HT for this?
what about other products ?
Is anyone aware of any smart switches that run with no-neutral wiring that are designed to work with wifi light bulbs? All the no-neutral switches I've found seem to let some power through the circuit, but not enough to really light up a bulb. Since I'm using wifi bulbs I need them to get full power. If that switch happens to be zigbee or zwave with local polling I may ugly cry tears of joy. (:
thats not how those switches work
what you likely want to do is to detach the switch from the actual switching of power
Yes, but I was hoping not to have to open up walls to rewire since I'm renting. More and more I'm thinking maybe I just cover the switches and go hard on motion sensors to control the lights.
the issue with those is that you need a minimal load for them to be operational when turned off
it doesnt look like the regular known brands would sell the detached switch feature on those either
unless you want to diy disable the relay part of them
I'm not quite that adventerous. (:
Thanks for the response btw, that helped!
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting into home automation for 50ft (around 10A) of LED strips and need some advice. Is this the right channel for it?
anyone have a recommendation for sliding gate integration into HA this is my current sliding gate board
You want to look up the connectivity options on that controller
It looks like it would do rf from the antenna on the right but that won't tell you a whole lot unless you buy a smart remote
im sure it can be wired in need something to to communicate with it via zigee or wifi
Depending on the voltage you can try to diy in an esp32
anyone can suggest some good zigbee GU10 RGB CCT bulbs?
I would assume hue has some
I have 24V high density LED daylight strips, 50ft. So 10A. I also have some warm white strips (maybe 5A). I want to get some kind of smart dimming drivers to make different colour temperatures and intesities. Most drivers cap out around 7A. Can I do it with one driver for warm white and one driver for daylight?
Instead of cct
You don't usually get a lot of brightness on RGB either
They should have more bright models than the 400lm one tho
Ikea has 350lm ones for 13 bucks
Hm no 400 seems to be about the limit on those that other brands kinda dont do more
maybe I should go for just CCT
They won't be much cheaper or brighter from reputable brands
I have two rgbwcct athom gu10 bulbs flashed with wled they work ok in a half bath even at low lumen
HELP!! THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!! Approx once per 30 hours at a random time a random livarno zigbee bulb turns on. Nothing in logs, nothing in history. No automations that should affect it.
The bulbs are on constant power. The contacts have been sanded, degreased and connected with new wagos. They are controlled by a zigbee wireless button which functions correctly 100% of the time not counting when a random bulb decides to randomly turn on in the middle of the night. Or middle if the day.
The affected lamp shows disabled in HA.
I can turn it on (does nothing) and off (turns it off)
Sounds like an issue with those bulbs that the manufacturer needs to resolve