#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 69 of 1
sweet
then they are instant + the transition time
How do you make the LIFX local?
do you have the 800 lumen or the 1100
With an Apollo MSR-2 is there more to Radar Target than one of the energy levels being above the threshold? I have seen 100% still energy and still radar target was "clear".
you connect them via the included instructions, then you integrate them to HA with the following, and then you're done https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/lifx/
I’m replacing my hue with 1100 and 1600 the 830 are way too dim
Thanks,
I went with the Sonoff ZBmini smart switch.
I've found the 'Shelly one'. That's probably the one you meant.
I'm only using these for secondary lighting so it's ok in my use case. If it was my main source I'd definitely bump to the higher output.
Only difference i found between sonoff and shelly is that the shelly is rated for max 16a instead of 10a.
Meaning the sonoff zbmini will probably break before the circuit breaker pops.
Other than that... the same.
Theres a youtube video doing a deep dive comparison between the 2
Most people say to avoid sonoff stuff due to reliability challenges, YMMV
It's almost as bad of a word as tuya on this server.
LIFX are garbage tho
And this is coming from someone with 5 of their Tile sets and various bulbs
Their wifi connectivity is horrendous and a known issue on their reddit/forums
maybe I just won't get smart bulbs lol
Zigbee is the way
I didn't say I recommended them 🙂 Just that for color, saturation and brightness, they are still top of the pile. lol
but the brightness is not great?
I also have 15 Ikeas, Solid, but shit routers and bad green render
that's what I'm hearing
The brightness is very adequate. Who said otherwise?
Philips Hue Ampoule intelligente A21 à haute luminosité, 1600 lumens, compatible Bluetooth et Zigbee (concentrateur Hue en option), compatible avec Alexa et Google Assistant : Amazon.ca: Outils et Bricolage
they got 1600Lumens even
that's way too much for one bulb for me lol
Add more bulbs 😛
Anyway they will create your Zigbee network for the rest
So it's good to have a lot of them anyway
Since sensor and endpoints do not repeat signal
I don't aggree that their color is not the best
They are by FAR ( Taking lifx in exception) the brightest color bulbs
Do I need to use their hub?
no
I measured globes/.Tuya at a tenth of the peak brightness of the second gen Hues
I mean, compared to Innr, Hue's color and saturation isn't the best. Innr still has them beat there.
Innr is not available in canada apparently
Did you tried the last gens?
I'll admit that first gen hues were pretty bad with green and yellow
They added a green and Yellow set of led instead of relying on combination of other leds
Yeah, I've got a few of the latest gens and they're alright. But my Innrs still look better to my eyes. Granted, I've ripped out almost all of my Hues and went with Wiz (which does a horrible job with blues).
Innr I would try if available here.
Since the best we got is Hue i went with that
Don't even regret the price tag
VERY worth it for having a rock solid zigbee network
I would spend $50 per bulb if it was definitively the best option
Oh yeah, 100%... Go with what's best for you. Fully on board with that.
but it seems like it might not be idk
There's no such things in computer tech😛
The best option is often subjective
probably why you gave 4 options 😄
Hues are rock solid and good bulbs. Are they the best is really up to you.
well it's definitely the highest price point lol
For a reason
I have one running since 5 years in an enclosed lamp
They say to NOT do that
yet it works 5 years later
VEry resilient bulbs
I have a few under the rain too
I just don't want to buy them and be like "wow this is shittier than my regular white bulbs"
Amazon has a month return period
But don't get the colors unless you have a real need for them.
Like accesibility
or drug use
I do both, so i went with them
I want colors
Lights turn blue when someone rings and green when someone leaves the house
(for a second)
if I wanted white bulbs I wouln't buy smart bulbs lol
Why not?
Very nice to not have to stand from the bed half asleep to turn them off haha
eh
That's why i got them initially xD
I don't really care tbqh
lol
if I cared that much I would buy a smart switch maybe
As someone with well over 100 bulbs, I kinda disagree 😉
To each his own 😛 I ain't about to ask eveyrone in the bed to move to turn them off
Hence zigbee
Smart bulbs should be used in places where you want color or you can't install a smart switch.
I just want color
So... many... questions lmfao
hues are at 40$ cad each
HAhaha
not for the bright ones
I'm ok with that actually
Or at least I do not see the difference
I just want the white to be good when I need to see
Well put 2 bulbs 😛 Same price for a 1600 lumens at 80$ or a 800 at 40$
but with two bulbs you get more color saturation
So, like we said... the Hues are good. You could also go a lot cheaper and start with Wiz bulbs. They're WiFi, do color (for like $17/bulb) and are pretty reliable. One advantage they have over Zigbee bulbs is they have animated scenes. Plus, they're made by Philips as well.
I can read under my red light per instance, since i got 3 in eahc room
what's the downside on the wiz
I would not go Wiufi @fallen cedar I did that initially. I had 30 Tuya bulbs.
Witching to zigbee was.. a pain
Since it was not done at once, but as I could afford the hues
I only will have a few bulbs
I have a small apartment
Ay, just telling you it's quite a rabbit hole 😛
Tuya... that's the issue there... not WiFi.
I got an appartment and got over 200 devices
Oh, you make space... lol
bingo
Also tablets on walls dont take space
That['s why I got 7
idk it's just never been a thing for me lol
My house is 1150 sq ft, >250 devices... sigh
1200 square foot here
I really just want to be able to make my room cool colors
bout 200 devices and 200 automations
@fallen cedar Go philips
Since not many bulbs
might as well get the best
Not like you're gonna buy 100 😛
you really think the 800w ones are good enough
Let me see my inventory
So, even though @buoyant osprey will disagree... look at the Wiz bulbs. If you really just want to add color, I don't see the need to spend on the Hue bulbs. Just my opinion, obvs.
i think i have 25 of those
gOT 20
well I want to add color but I also don't want to have shitty lighting when I need white
Got 20, and yes
But get the 1600 Lumens if you really want bright white
they pop in neutral white
And go lower as you go to coldest or wasrmest
Since it uses half the leds
why are the wiz bulbs so much cheaper?
Because Philips has a really good manufacturing process when it comes to WiFi devices.
but the color gamut is good?
Dude, just grab a wiz bulb, a hue bulb, and a lifx bulb from Amazon. Try them all side by side and pick the one you like. Return the rest, then order more.
^^^^^^^^^
smart
Yup. Except for "true blue" they work great here.
Skip LIFX tho, really nice colors, probably the best. But People seem to have various issues and their support is lackluster since their aquisition by Feit
They tried to ship me a replacement PSU for my LIFX tiles 4 times
Again, I use them with zero problems and know several others in the same boat.
In total they sent me 11 tiles and no PSU xD
With two of the boxes labeled "PSU":
buit containing tile(s)
I'll try em all out
I'm moving and I'm using it as an excuse to put in fancy lights
If you go led strips, do not buy on amazon. Random advice
idk if I should grab the hues now while they're cheap or wait lol
I was gonna go cheap strips and fancy bulbs
y
You want led per meters to be higher
Cheap strips have a lot of space between leds
eh but the strips are just for ambiance
With the good ones you get a continous beam of light once under a diffuser
the bulbs have to actually light my room
Leds will light more than the bulbs if you do the entire peripheral at the ceiling level
Especially if you get leds with a white channel
I use "BTF-Lighting RGBW RGBNW SK6812"
Here a video
Pick your poison always aapplies.
Much like my new" keyboard that keeps double keying on me
I did a door frame with those
OMG
Looks better IRL, the diffuser does its job better somehow in real life
Probably has to do with the lack of HDR
And get this controller: https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-high-power-led-strip-controller
Notice:Canada/Hawaii/Alaska/Costa Rica are not reachable for shipping form US.Shipping from Sydney to New Zealand is much slower than shipping from China.Germany only available for some main EU country, UK is not included. WLED Addressable Strip ControllerESP8285H16 ( ESP8266 with 2M memory )Chipset Input: 5V-24VMaxLoad: 16 A16A Relay SwitchS...
It does addressable too. So you can do nice effects
keep in mind that doesn't include a controller or power supply
I wouldn’t deploy any wled controllers using es8285 etc only esp32
Wled can’t run well on old shit anymore
Cannot agree with SHS more here
If you use older more stable wled versions it won’t matter tho
It’s not worth it but ya
it's fun though
Source: I have 20 diy led controllers with shitty Wi-Fi reception
I probably have all of the parts
A pole dance and you'r good to open a ### shop 😉
TIL!
It’s the cheap esp32 with no external antenna that’s the issue
The dungeon is in another room 😉
If you use like Quindor esp32 you’re fine to diy
I have a few options
But by the time you add fuses and 3d print a case it’s usually better to buy premade
some allow external antennas
With nice blocks to attach wires to
and always add fuses to these
probably have screw terminals or wagos somewhere
Yeah, I have tons of mcu boards, multiple 3d printers, and cad skills, but at this point in time, it's best to buy shelly or other known brand.
unless you have pcb skills and a reflow oven
then maybe it might be worth it to roll your own
I’ve added zero fuses and only one fried but it was the barrel connector itself shorting. Not that I suggest doing it this way
For big projects I use Quindor boards prefused tho
There is cheaper options, why pay so much for a motion sensor?
That’s not a motion sensor it’s a presence sensor
And adding to what SHS said, I was dumb. I have since gotten rid of mine.
You can’t use a motion sensor as a presence sensor?
you're mixing terminology
Because motion requires motion and heat. Presence is detecting using radar.
It detects if you are in the room right?
Yes, but if you stop moving, it stops detecting you. Presence sensors don't have that problem.
So you put a timer so if you move within a given time it works.
Or you put two, by the door and in the room. So when you enter the room lights turn on, when you leave lights turn off.
Not as accurately at least. Sure, you can put a 10 minute timeout, but if you don't move in those 10 minutes (like sleeping), then it stops detecting you.
it's crazy to me you think you can brute force your way into not needing mmwave when the use cases exist and that's why the products exist lol
Good, your sleeping so it shouldn’t turn on the lights. 😅
What do you use it for?
can you work around just using PIR? sure. is that sufficient enough for most people? yesnt
yeah, it's easy to add and the safety factor increases a ton by doing it so I'm always going to recommend adding one.
i was just giving a data point that 20 devices work without it- the wled guys made it seem like they'd fry on the first power outage and they seem to do just fine
but i also use them at like 3a or less and no power going thru the esp themselves just powered by gpio
If I get out of bed, after 10 minutes, open the curtains. If I get back into bed, close the curtains. Or, if I sit down on the couch, turn on the TV. If something is playing and I get up for a few seconds, automatically pause it and when I return, start playing again.
Trying to think the reason we need one so bad especially at that price. I mean if you can put many motion detectors instead of 1 presence detector of that price. 🤷♂️
yeah yeah, I'm not arguing!
you wouldnt buy the fp2 these days
There are much cheaper ones.
better cheaper options exist
So you don’t want to push any buttons at all? 😂
the more you have to interact with your smart home the dumber it feels
NOPE
My house is reactive, not interactive. I don't want to press buttons, speak commands, use a dashboard. Nothing. I want the house to react to me and what I'm doing.
Ya, but I mean if it takes a button to open the curtains, and another to pause the movie… i mean it’s lazy enough for me. Don’t need it to read my mind on my every action. 😅
i think you've managed to miss the point of why most of us use home assistant lol
Eh, what's the point of having a smart home if I have to make it do what I want rather than evaluating the environment and reacting to me?
What if you want it to continue playing the movie when you get up from the sofa? Then you have to get up with one arm raised up?
Why would I want to do that? If I get up, I would almost always want the movie to pause.
Light if you want to multi task, want to get a snack as you watch the movie…
then you'd further complicate it with overrides
using something like a magic cube to easily switch between "modes"
I would still want it to pause. lol I mean, I can't think of a single instance where I wouldn't want it to pause. If I'm getting up and leaving the room, pause the media.
My point is, there is always those cases that you don’t think of and the automation gets in the way sometimes.
that's why you have overrides that act as conditionals to stop the automation from running when you dont want it to
Not in my case 🙂 I did miss ONE instance the other night though that I corrected.
Yeah, same. I have most of mine done except for the bathroom. That one's being a bit of a pain.
Ya, if you’re leaving the room sure, but if you just get up from the sofa maybe you want it to continue.
That’s why I said you can out 2 sensors by the door and in the room.
or you can have one presence sensor with zones
1 presence sensor can handle that though. I can just check the zones.
@native pilot ninja'd me 😉
What’s the cheapest one?
Maybe I can put one in the chicken house to count if all of them are precent before the door closes. 😅
If it is as cheap as a door laser sensor it would make sense.
lol cheapest is not best. You could buy a cheap Tuya one off Ali, but it will suck and that use case doesn't really work as most of them can't do mutli-targeting like that.
Ok, the cheapest that actually works. 😅
bwahaha! NICE
So I am building one device. It's basically a 5v peristaltic pump that pumps vinegar into the AC system to keep the drain lines clear. Like this https://acdrainflo.com/
butwhy
just use the algae tabs in the evap drain pan
because the drain lines get clogged up and overflow into the house
redesign the overflow to go outside
then that clogs too...
if there is a system that depends on me to do something at intervals, that's not going to work
i dont think this will work but i'd love to be proven wrong lol
gunk will find a way
there are more potent biocides
during covid the ERs realized vinegar works better than bleach and they still use it
which I have no problem using so long as they don't rot the coils
bleach kind of sucks and destroys metal
it's not my favorite no
I'd rather use lye
good old sodium hydroxide
So I should get rid of my Shelly motion sensors? 🤔
not if they work for your usecase
Well, if this is cheaper and it does the same job; and if I make money selling the motions…
So, my point is... what device and firmware should I use? zigbee preferred. would prefer a board that could accept a command to "run pump for 30 seconds" than a firmware that has to have a turn on and turn off command.
is that even available?
Same job, but different. Yes, presence is superior in a lot of ways, but also more difficult. If you have ceiling fans for instance, then you need to take that into account.
there is no such thing as zigbee diy to a non-developer except for this: https://home-assistant-guide.com/guide/how-to-build-the-easiest-zigbee-chair-occupancy-sensor/
but sounds like you need esphome and wifi/ethernet not zigbee
Then you do zone selection to ignore the fan, no?
I have been coding since slackware linux came on 18 floppy disks
depends on the sensor. Some have settings that allow you to ignore the fan's "energy reading", some you make zones around the fan.
Energy reading..?
Dude has one leg and his foot is bonded with the chair.
ok then i can point you to non existent docs to follow for diy zigbee devices
Yeah. mmWave uses radar energy to do it's detection.
https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/msr-1/page/how-to-tune-mmwave-using-home-assistant @vagrant vigil
If you're experiencing false triggers, we recommend using Radar Engineering Mode (REM) to monitor th...
the point is you can take an off the shelf sensor and repurpose it with two leads coming off the sensor not the ai picture
if i was being picky i'd say link the msr-2 docs instead since msr-1 isnt sold anymore but same end result since both use ld2410
Yeah, I guess my question was more protocol related... does there exist a zigbee command or device that will do something for X seconds?
@cold moon @vagrant vigil https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/msr-2/page/how-to-tune-mmwave-using-home-assistant
If you're experiencing false triggers, we recommend using Radar Engineering Mode (REM) to monitor th...
😘 there
Oh so there is a newer version of it I guess.
do the images on this page look weird for you?
like hdr to sdr or something wonky (im viewing on non-hdr monitor)
looks normal to me
The HA screens are a tiny bit fuzzy but totally readable
there is like "ghosting" or something
When you zoom in there is a bit red around the letters which may cause ghosting. 🤔
Looks like the page from before.
so either they are old and we have good eyes
or they have nice HDR monitors and we dont and it's related to that
I just zoomed in on your image, not sure it would matter what we use to look at it.
if the screenshot was taken on an hdr device wouldnt it include hdr shit that when viewed from an SDR screen looks different?
I have no idea, I looked at it using my iPhone. 🤷♂️
Try changing the theme or style of text if posible.
If I zoom WAY WAY WAY in I see the red ghosting
like 400x
and these eyes are 20/20
Ok, any reason anyone would buy a motion sensor at this point if the presence sensor does all that and is around the same price or cheaper?
Yes. Pick the right tool for the job. For instance, in some rooms, I spend maybe 5-10 minutes in there. All I need is a motion sensor to know I've entered/exited in x minutes. That is perfect for a PIR motion sensor. I don't need the overhead of a presence sensor and tuning it and all that. Or, in my carport to know if someone walked by. Stuff like that. Plus, PIR motion sensors can sometimes react faster than presence sensors can.
Because a decent zigbee pir works great and doesn’t use any Wi-Fi airtime fairness
But aren’t the presence sensors cheaper?
I mean I got shelly motion sensors and shelly motion 2 sensors… they were expensive to get.
And pir reacts quicker or used to be the case
The presence sensors are all zigbee? 🤦♂️
What
Not neccesarily. I can get an Aqara P1 motion sensor for $17.
Ive been sticking to wifi for everything at my house. 😅
I didn’t want to get all those hubs and have them break down on me disabling all my automations.
Every sensor should have the hub within it all working as backup hubs for each other.
Or perhaps we will have a router one day that will have zigbee, bluetooth, zwave all included within the router with a mesh network. This way every device will also act like an extender as well.
What? lol what hubs?
I have exactly ZERO hubs.
And a blend of WiFi, Zigbee and ZWave.
Then how do you connect them to HA?
There's a company that kinda did that... didn't go so well for them. (Securifi).
Zigbee lan coordinator, ZWave USB stick and a damn good enterprise network for WiFi.
Ya, those are hubs
No. They are NOT hubs.
They are adapters... really, if you want to get super technical, HA is a "hub", but that's about it.
If all your devices connect to them in order to connect to HA then it is a hub. In other words a single point of failure.
Hub, Gateway, adaptor… whatever…
lol ah, no. I don't have any single point of failure.
If your adapter fails they can’t connect to HA right?
Spare coordinator in a drawer, easy swap if one fails
HA runs in a container. Z2M runs in a container on a separate machine. ZW2JS runs in a container as well. Everything is in containers. If a piece of hardware dies, swap to another one. Done.
With WiFi, if a device fails I know it is the devices; otherwise I don’t get internet if router fails… so much easier to troubleshoot.
Also, by that logic, if one of your Shellies has a WiFi radio fail, you're in the same boat.
What wifi radio fail..? You mean low signal..? That’s a thing? 😅
Uh no. The physical WiFi chip in the device. They fail like any other piece of hardware. Ask me how I know. lol
Ya, so if the device fails I replace the device. I know directly that it was that sensor that failed.
It doesn’t effect the rest of the devices at all
Same gooes for any other type of equipment though. If one of my sensors falls off of HA, I know it's either the sensor or the battery. You're still not making an argument here. lol
That's why backup equipment exists 😉
The point is, if 1 sensor fails, it doesn’t become a single point of failure for all my devices to stop
And with the tiniest bit of planning, you can replace the single point of failure in a couple of minutes.
So, if your router goes out, ALL your devices are pretty much dead, right? Do you have a backup router for that?
(spoiler: ||||I do||||) lol
Not when it matters, bad timing is all it takes. But with WiFi, 1 device fails, it only effects automations related to 1 device only.
It is literally the same with Zigbee and ZWave.
Ya, router is the only point of failure with wifi; but with you…
With me I have 3 and I have 3 backups.
and it doesn't matter because most presence sensors are wifi anyway which is what you asked about
should I snag these hue bulbs while they're on sale for $75 or should I wait for the move
Both MTR-1 and MSR-2 work with wifi? No extra “adapters” needed?
how far away is the move?
aug 9
Thought you were gonna do one of each and test them?
yeah I will but should I grab em while on sale
then buy them, I think that's inside the return window for amazon
Yup... what Ender said... grab them and if you don't like them, toss em back to Amazon.
Those should be fine.
$75 per lightbulb? 🤯
for 3
no, Naro
philips hue
but @fallen cedar if you're outside of the return window you could probably sell them to Naro for profit
lol
Why hue so expensive? Aren’t lightbulbs for like $5..? 🤷♂️
smart color chaning bulbs
Yes, that’s what I’m talking about.
Expensive because they're good, pretty much the gold standard of smart bulbs
lol
Naro, just scroll up like 700 messages and you can read the reasoning why there
You can spend less and get less, if that's what you want
That’s what I’m asking; good at what..?
The ONLY bulbs that cheap are Tuya ones... and no.
I ordered the philips huehuehues
The only issue I got with my $5 Tuya bulbs is that when internet goes off, the bulb turns itself on and I have no control over that. Otherwise they work just fine even over local.
I found out my current dumb bulbs are only 700 lumen
They got better colors or more light..?
so 800 probably good enough
@fallen cedar they are whitewhitewhite? or color? 😉
Uh huh.
I'd agree with that based on the use case you descibed before
I even dim mine because I don’t like direct light into my eyes.
I'll try and see
honestly I can probably supplement with extra white only bulbs and automate them to switch on when I need white light
if too dim
yeah definitely
it's just for my bedroom tho so should be ok
if my roommate wants to go half on more for the common areas we can see lol
yeah, in a bedroom 99.9% of the time you're not going to want the max brightness
only when cleaning
yeah exactly
but also I might be using it as a workspace too
idk if he's gonna want me to have my workbench in the common area lol
U guys just all hate light
but a headlamp is cheaper than 5 smartbulbs at cough,cough $75/bulb
true
I can't find bulbs to ever be bright enough 
or I can get a desk lamp
have you tried halogens lol
have you tried uhh
The 500w ones they do bright but they also are kinda shortlived
magnesium flare
just get like 8 of these per room, should be good: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-10-000-Lumen-Twin-Head-LED-Work-Light-K40189/307904718
Currently those with 10x 1600lm
It does ok
But yea there ain't such thing as too bright unless you need to wear sunglasses indoors

@native pilot , yeah 8 of those with sunglasses and taning oil 😉
So, people should stop teasing me about my 10 lights in my small office then? I agree. 
eh
too bright can ruin the vibe
and cause headaches
but that's why god made dimmers
Yes
inovelli if you know what's good
sorry I don't speak italian
Maybe this means linux will work on iPhones as well, which may mean we can possibly have HA on an iPhone? 🤔
This way our old phones will have a use. 🤷♂️ plus we will get all the iphone sensors into HA as well
https://youtube.com/shorts/moNg8k_ZmF8
maybe
that word is doing a lot of heavy lifting
Pretty unlikely. Even if possible to run it, it would be far from ideal.
plus we will get all the iphone sensors into HA as well
I wouldn't place any bets on that
I dim my room lights to 4-7%, i hate direct lighting. I want to have indirect as sunlight in a room is.
But the rest is a possibility?
Just use the sun.sun entity as required
Sure. But being hit by an asteroid killing all human beings is a possibility as well.
Entity? 😅
I was thinking of having LED strips all around the room pointed at the ceiling, but seams to be too expensive and would probably use more power.
Why using LEDs, if the sun is already integrated in HA?
Because it will make the moon jealous. 😜
Moon can be integrated as well
oh snap
Largest issue with strips is that they aren't creating a lot of light per area
In the ol days you had the tube lights inside wall recessions which did kinda exactly that
Even all around the room pointed at the ceiling?
That was one of the main issues I had to do the project; I didn’t know how much light it would give.
Yes it's not doing a whole lot
You can kinda just turn on a whole spool of it and see how much light that gives out
It's quite little for it being like 40w of power
Well, if 1 light bulb is like 60w and 1 strip of light is, what 1 wall? That makes 160w..? Not enough?
Placing the sun in the room directly is problematic as well - quite the opposite problem. Too much light per area
Wattage does not necessarily mean brightness
I thought of getting ones with high CRI as well and that really made things more expensive. 🤯
It's about density
We had 100W bulbs for example in rooms in the pre-LED era. The rooms weren't brighter
The strips aren't really designed to illuminate a room, they pretty much can't even from a thermal perspective
How many lumens is the sun at sunset within a room? 😅
If I can get that level of light in a room then it’s good enough
Normal sunlight is about 120k lumens per m²
That leaves out a lot of info; in a room? and what time of day?
At any time once it hits orbit
I don’t want direct sun light, just enough to light up the room.
Read somewhere around noon
It's perceptual less if you want less light
It also depends on your room size as sources are very scoped in their direction
The cheap Tuya bulb I have gives around 450 lumens I think and thats enough for me to dim… so let’s start at that point.
Here is one that gives 800LM at 9W
https://a.co/d/aAyYnat
So LED strips around the room can’t equate to that..?
To a Tuya device?
So I picked up a couple Sonoff NSPanels since it seems like they might be the most capable "touchscreen with physical buttons and relays" available now. A lot of the tutorials and videos out there seem quite old at this point though and there seems to be so much conflicting information on Tasmota vs ESPHome. Any particular resources that people find are better than others?
I actually really like the form factor and functionality of the Wink Relays I've been using with MQTT, but the limitations of running Android 2.3 are just too great at this point.
Hey, at $5 Tuya is good enough. 😅
I can burn 5$ without buying e-waste
not likely
i mean if you buy enough then probably but the amount of light vs the amount of electricity will be a quite large difference
So the best option is to make a mirror box with a lightbulbs and put it outside my window..? 😂
you seem to be quite sensitive to light ^^, maybe that could be an option ;D
would look funny
Yes, I am; and I also turn off the backlight on my TV. The good side of it is thing is it extends the light of lightbulbs and TV. 🤷♂️
saving on electricity ^^
Yup, that too
These seam real cheap, are they any good and work with HA?
https://a.co/d/04VyVny
Maybe? Seems like you would have to setup modbus to get it to work.
Don’t even know what that is
This one is 5 in 1
https://a.co/d/ayRyH6f
IR, RF, Motion, Temperature, Humidity Sensors
Don’t get it; it means some features like section detection won’t work? Or does it mean it is harder to integrate into HA..? 🤷♂️
ha has an integration for modbus
but you have to do the configuration from there on
And that configuration is a pain in the ass.
Usually if you don't know what something is that a new piece of hardware will require, you have two choices:
- Learn about it, figure it out, and get excited whilst it arrives.
- Buy something else that does what you need without having to do all the extra work
This is better: https://a.co/d/dWVjKlF
I have 2 broadlink minis, they're great.
How do you know it will require modbus?
because its mentioned in the description
Did you read the description in the link you sent?
Also in general, if a device says IFTTT compatible does it automatically mean it will also be compatible with HA?
Supports Modbus TCP - An industry-standard protocol that lets advanced users effortlessly access real-time sensor data and control IR/RF directly from their systems.Integration with eHub in Home Assistant is seamless - no API or additional development needed!
No.
IFTTT has kinda nothing to do with homeassistant
Ya, but I thought they both might use same methods to communicate with one another. 🤷♂️
No
And I’m sure if it is compatible with Alexa it also doesn’t mean it is compatible with HA right?
no
It's compatible with HA if:
- There is an official integration
- There is a HACS integration
- There is an open API and you have the skills and knowledge to use it via REST


Or, if you buy something #zigbee-archived or #zwave-archived which is supported by the integration you're using.
The bonus of #zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived is those are 100% local too, no phoning home to whatever server wherever in the world sharing your data
Oh I wasn’t looking to buy an IR RF device, just thought it was interesting that it had all 5 sensors in 1 device.
If that’s how z-wave or Zigbee hubs were I would buy those types as it would double as a sensor, so having each one would also double as redundancy for the Hubs.
Most of my #zigbee-archived devices also have temperature sensors in
My curtain and blind motors do for sure.
As do my light sensors.
I mean... most Zigbee and ZWave sensors do have multiple sensors in them already.
Would be easier if devices said directly on them “compatible with HA” like they do with IFTTT. Or if we could do a search on a website and check, and the website would tell us which way it is compatible if at all.
The HA website has a really handy page called "integrations" which lists if it's compatible with HA
And for #zigbee-archived https://zigbee.blakadder.com and https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/ are my go to sources.
Wait, are you saying all zigbee and zwave devices are compatible with HaA?
More or less, yes.
Some things, mostly Tuya ones, can be weird.
But nearly everything else will work. You can check on the pages I just linked to see if devices are there, but even if they're not listed they may still work.
Pretty much... there's a few weird edge cases, but mostly every device is and if it can't be, it's pretty easy to write an extension or a quirk to support it.
I have just as many Zigbee devices as I do WiFi devices (109 and 112 respectively)
the gift of having a useful protocol and rather standard implementations ^^
#zwave-archived is a lot stricter with the protocol so all of those devices should work, but they are also pricier.
I mean if the Hubs/gateways/adaptors, had sensors in them.
I have way more #zigbee-archived than WiFi 👀
But those won't be in good places to have the sensors.
My Zigbee stick is on my TV unit, behind the TV. So it gets fairly warm due to the ambient tech.
The little sensor next to my sofa however was <$10 and reports temperature, and humidity and the battery lasts for about 3 years
Eh, my problem is that I went and decided I didn't want Zigbee lights anymore... 65 Wiz bulbs later... lol
Well, if it is a presence sensor or temp sensor their locations would be center to the room meaning close enough for other devices to pick up. And as we can have more than one in this case it would work as mesh creating redundancy for each hub/sensor we get.
why would it be in the center of the room?
My presence sensor has a temperature sensor in it. It's also magnetised to my radiator because that was the best position for it.
Zigbee is a mesh network already.
Nice and high in a corner where it can see my whole room
Closer to other sensors as it would be a hub too
Ya, but its not a zigbee hub…
Why are you so fixated on hubs?
Again, Zigbee is already a mesh network. Doesn't need to be closer or in the center of a room.
Almost every powered #zigbee-archived device is a router.
You only need one coordinator.
Well, someone said it won’t be good place, so I said center of room. 🤷♂️
A light bulb is not a good place to have a temperature sensor
yeah you said that
It's in the middle of my room, it's a great router, but it is not a good place to check how warm or cold it is
The idea is to have more than 1 for redundancy. So having a sensor on it as well would help with that.
You seem to be determined that you are correct about something, but I have no idea what.
lol; it’s not about being correct.
I’m just saying a hub similar to the one I had out with sensors on it, would be a good idea for zigbee type hubs as well and I would buy those type of sensors to get redundancy on hubs.
Multiple Zigbee-hubs means multiple Zigbee networks - meaning radio congestion
And causing havoc for problem solving.
Actually just causing problems that can't be solved probably
changing the subject Is building zones around a ceiling fan the only method for tuning out a ceiling fan on the apollo MTR-1?
I saw a corner attachment for them that people can put on the ceiling; would probably solve the fan issue as well.
I don't want the sensor pointed down, I need it to point across the room
So would you guys recommend this?
And it has section detection right?
Isn’t it a better option from Apollo MTR-1 or mmWave MSR-2?
And I just noticed it said it has ChatGPT on it for some reason. 😅
That looks and smells like Tuya, so I would run away from it, probably screaming loudly
And if they consider it having/using ChatGPT a feature, I'd definitely scream
It says it can be placed inside a cupboard and it still works..?
So this things doesn’t need a line of sign for them to work?
The sensor uses the LinknLink app not Tuya
Sure, so do dozens of other products. But they can also pair straight into the Tuya/SmartLife app.
What does that mean?
It can tell me if someone is behind a wall and where they are standing?
There's no official HA integration and I've never heard of the company. It's also a wifi devices. The three of those combined are enough to put that firmly into the "nope" category for me.
So basically is a buy and find out type of thing?
As far as features go, what do the others have that this doesn’t?
But you said ModBud might work with it.
I never said Modbus worked with it
Someone mentioned it… 😅
IF you put the radar behind a wall, it should be able to track/detect a person on the otherside of that wall. Some materials used in walls could impact the detection abilty.
So if it works with Modbus, and has the same features as the others; not a bad price for it.
Just the sensing behind walls thing that is kinda odd. Its like having xray and can allow you to spy on people.
Oh wow, the Amazon pictures advertise that they store your data in their cloud for 3 years. That's very definitely a no from me.
oh boy
Well, it has sections so it knows exactly where people are, and it works behind walls especially thin ones… 🤷♂️
Wait, what..? It uses mmWave sensor and mmWave is more expensive?
Around $40 isn’t it?
It's probably not that, it's just pretending to be
But I'd personally prefer to spend my money once on a product that won't keep my data to sell it, and will actually work.
how are you guys still having this convo i just spent like 2 hours snaking a dryer vent and came back and still talk about junk instead of just buying some known good working stuff
I think you know the answer to that
like naro listen to people that know more lmao
The thing with buying cheap devices is you have to have all the time and knowledge to invest into them to get them working
Or buy something pricier than works out of the box, but it'll just keep working forever
I wish there was a smart option for this
omg
Leaf blower on the inside
it was so bad
that's REAL bad
i tried it was stuck
Wow.
Though my tumble dryer literally backs onto the outside wall that it vents out of, and the hose is straight from the dryer to the wall.
So I'm lucky in that regard.
i went from the inside out and got stuck and had to go outside and move inwards
multiple 90 degree bends and it goes inbetween story 1/2
literally worst case scenario i think
ya apparently this giant snake route i have isnt common
also shame on me for not knowing to clean this
the new dryer sensed it and stopped itself and yelled at me
I have to say, one habit I do manage consistently is cleaning the dryer filter every time I use the dryer, and I stuck a long bottle brush onto the cupboard door and use that to get any bits that fall off the filter which seriously cuts down on things that might clog.
I just have an IKEA bottle brush 😂
But my dryer is ... nearly 15? And used 1-2 times a week 😂
this is as cheap and chinese as you get but decent enough to work
Maybe have a blower turn on every tike the dryer turns on? 😅
Preferrably a Tuya blower
Yup, it will store your blowing data. 😅
the docs on dryer says not to use an exhaust fan with it
Probably because it will get stuck on the fan. But with a Y connector and a blower it may help keep it clean. 🤷♂️
it's just a house maintenance task that we're supposed to do yearly
Not if it is a smart home, right? 😂
Yearly? 👀
My parents clean their dryer out weekly 😂
the exhaust vent going outside
I rarely clean my dryer
My parents don't have an outside vent, it's a condenser dryer. So they clean the element in the bottom where extra fluff that makes it through the filter collects.
Over here they're about as common as vented dryers I think
how do you plug that thing in?
You can get heated drying racks 😂
I assume it dries clothes by running electricity through them?
I had one at uni, it was very low wattage, like an electric blanket.
The Sun integration doesn’t have that feature yet? 😅
It is wireless
harvests free energy from the ambient radio waves
have to turn up the power on your nearby APs
Tahda! I is here! Lol
So unsure if the same person is here but I'm looking to do a couple of jobs in my home with some smart equipment.
Firstly replace my motion sensor for something more stable as it's very weak and was looking at presence sensor
The next one is camera related and I don't think here is the right channel but them in cameras ain't helped yet lol
Well, this ons is cheap but everyone is hating on it. 😅
https://a.co/d/04VyVny
They like Apollo MTR-1 or mmWave MSR-2 instead
I see, let me add that I currently have a zigbee bridge and aiming to add some more to it with out cross branding much if possible lol
They work with WiFi
OK now your talking!
But they all hatting on WiFi as well. 😂
yeah man dont buy that linknlink thing that is some random chinese junk
wifi is necessary for mmwave due to the amount of traffic
But those work behind walls so you can spy on your neighbors and see what room they are in with it based on the sectors it detects.
Well give me a few suggestions I'm. Not super flush but I can spend a little of good kit if it does the job and will last a while
Guess thieves can use it to see if someone is home before they enter. 😬🫣
https://apolloautomation.com/products/msr-2 i work for them part time so i'm biased 🙂
Description We are excited to introduce the Apollo MSR-2 sensor, a updated version of our popular MSR-1, developed with your feedback. The MSR-2 builds on the foundation of the MSR-1, incorporating several incremental upgrades to enhance performance and usability. What’s New? • Compact Design: The MSR-2 comes in a smal
What does part time mean? Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t?
lol
So what's the big selling point of this compared to some other brand?
Each brand her a selling point so what would u say this one is?
Price and local use.
depends on your use case but for a lot of people it does exactly what they want (small package, mmwave with zones (far/medium/close)
Feels like I’m taking a test. 😂
Local controls is always a huge bonus
they're open source (minus the pcb itself) it's basically a tiny esp32-c3-mini in a 3d printed case with a ld2410b mmwave sensor running esphome firmware
Of you can tell is a 3d printed case.
they'll be injection molded eventually but no timeline yet
Wrong tag but meh lol
the only other "competitor" really is these guys https://shop.everythingsmart.io/en-us/products/everything-presence-lite if you want to wait til august but frankly the features arent really one to one just using the same mmwave sensor
Introducing Everything Presence Lite, our most affordable Smart Home presence sensor yet - designed with speed, privacy and local control in mind. Everything Presence Lite is based on the huge success of the Everything Presence One, offering excellent presence detection performance with a more affordable price tag. Fea
There are some corner attachments for them on Etsy
Injection mold would be better. So for the price and local use does this do like others and use a grid system or just distance based?
look at the mtr-1 instead
https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/mtr-1-ImK/page/mtr-1-corner-mount-stl-by-user-crookedtoe there's a corner mount a user designed for us last week
With that cable they sell with it, seams like the device would be cheaper.
Ahh, I could print the stl my self if it's in there lol
well the msr-2/mtr-1/air-1 also has the ability to add a SCD40 CO2 sensor (plus temp/humidity added with this)
and an extra mezzanine connector for a gpio addon which can add any sort of sensor or led strip or w/e
So I'm guessing this is just a modular base? And you can add. More features if u want? Don't... Stahpp lol
CO2 sensor with these?
Doesn’t CO2 gather on the floor while people can put these on the ceiling?
they should be like 1.5/2meters high but ceiling is an option too
and yes if you shoot yourself in the foot you'll bleed
lol
probably best to put something measuring air quality in a spot not considered an air dead zone
these docs can be used for any ld2410 / ld2450 mmwave sensor really most of it is yaml editing and stuff
like you could diy it if you wanted and still use the same yaml for the most part
That’s my point, these should go to room corners therefore air dead zones, so bad for CO2 sensors.
ok then dont add a co2 sensor on it for your use case
lots of other people dont put them in corners of rooms
this mounting option or this is what a lot of people like
Hey Naro I have a question for you. Do you actually intend on buying any presence sensors at all?
Do the sectors on them work like pixels? So the further they are the more the sector has to cover but the closer the more sectors you get in small area?
If the price is right and it is a good one then yes.
impressive right?
At the moment I got 2 motion sensors for 1 room just to turn on lights.
Ok. What information do you need to make a decision? We've talked about technologies, price points, features for hours at this point.
a lot of people combine motion sensor and mmwave
Don't worry, we discusssed that too
ah
I think the only thing we haven't covered is The Restaurant at the End of the Universe. And fortunately for us, Douglas Adams handled that
Always like the idea of something adjustable
Multi use means never useless
Combine them for what? Isn’t presence sensor enough for a room?
Yeah I'd defo want that plus a light sensor would be cool!
Kinda what I seen with zigbee but want something a lil quicker at sponce times.
Response *
Oh, they use motion for faster response and presence for keeping light on? 🤔
did you never click the link? it has a lux sensor built in man
Too many people wrongly assume that "end" means in distance - at the outer edge of the universe - when it actually means in time though.
Frankly the time this conversation has taken we're just about there though. Time to go back and watch the Disaster Area concert
or you could watch the 2007 film transformers directed by michael bay
it's not a requirement to have pir and mmwave. The apollo units and the fp2 are fast enough that pir is not needed.
it's more a "this is what people started doing" thing but that was 1-2 years ago
mmwave has caught up since then
but it still cant hurt
like if i added mmwave into my bathroom i'd literally still have pir trigger too unless i needed to tune out like my cat that sleeps on the floor (then i'd use mmwave and pir would still trigger so it would be a hindrance)
What’s the difference between MTR-1 and MSR-2?
Is one the newer version of the other or they are different things? 🤔
we covered this too
When? I thought it was a newer version this whole time.
that's msr-1 vs msr-2 but that was just a slight modification they both use ld2410 mmwave sensor
sometime in the last decade of time we've spent talking about this today
Ya, that’s what got me confused, hadn’t noticed that MTR is a different thing.
msr-2 = 1 target at short/medium/long distance with full configuration of that
mtr-1 = aqara fp2 feature set like tracking 3 users in 3 zones
So it is like horizontal vs vertical zones?
the MSR 2 has 3 zones but the zones are arcs at short/med/long distances from the sensor. The MTR is a gridded system that you can set square zones
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VrTfaFyMPk watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Gq62Edsnc& maybe this too
They both say MSR-1 on them, is there a video on MTR-1?
I like them videos, best way to learn. 👍
No video? 😢
i tried to make you work for it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-w_GFURyx-A
Oh so with MTR you get to select exact locations like a specific spot in a room but the MSR is more general range based detection. 👍
also mtr-1 can have false hits - it's not that the sensor doesnt work but it can have issues in some environments
the msr-2 tuning is pretty much perfect
So we should wait for the MTR-2? 🤷♂️
Why would it get false hits if nothing is moving in the zone?
no
it's the ld2450 inside the sensor
the mtr-1 just.. uses it
anyways im gonna go do other stuff
good luck man
Well, if it is going to turn on light, it might turn on a light when there is no one in the room.
Guess we need to add a timer with it.
And response time is the same with both?
To be fair fair catching up I've learned a lot lol.
The question is... Which is best for my use case! Time to plan it out.
True, which is the annoying part lol
Ya, apparently there is also Aqara FP2; but it is more expensive
Here is a nice video about it.
https://youtu.be/TCan49iY6EU
I will show you 7 automations you probably never seen before cuz these ain't your average automations.
Shoutout to these creators for their awesome tutorials:
- @ThisSmartHouse
- @MarkWattTech
- @EricWelander
- @CraigsTechTalk
- @SmartHomeSolver
- @TechWithBrett
Purchase Aqara's Presense Sensor FP2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXWZMQJ3?...
Seen it earlier it's around 83gbp seems kinda powerful but expensive for the two areas I'd need it in lol
Wondering if their response time differ from each other compared to motion detection.
For lights I'd find this kinda overkill
Well, I got the Shelly motion 2 for lights, but that is overkill so probably sell it and use one of these.
I don’t really need lumen detection on it or vibration detection.
I'd love either lumin with presence for my hall for the lights. And presence + motion for the lighting in the main room. As motion with a grid sensor should rule out if there is a false positive
Why you need lumens?
Just wondering, also if you add timer you won’t need motion, unless you got an extra sensor laying around.
Lumine means a factor of dimness. And not just looking for when sunset starts in ha.
Motion would mean quicker response time on check the delay as they can stack or bug. 2 checks can be done in 2 seconds not 10 with delays
For example check the grid finds something. Triggers ha, which checks for motion, finds it and knows it's a position and not an error. There is already a delay in most devices of around 5 seconds
So a double check would be 10 or more.
The duel sensor would make it around 8+ seconds faster
Well, if all it is going to do is dim, you can use this instead of a lumen detector. Also changes tone from cold white to warm white.
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/circadian-lighting-custom-component/61246
Stay healthier and sleep better by simulating natural daylight to maintain your Circadian Rhythm! Circadian Lighting slowly (imperceivably) adjusts your lights to simulate the natural color temperature shift of daylight throughout a day. This gives your environment a more natural feel, with cooler whites during the midday and warmer tints nea...
The motion and presence if not for dim. That's security.
The lumine and presence is for light triggers
Ya, you can use the Circadian thing instead of Lumens so it knows when to dim and how much.
It takes how long for Presence to detect a person waling into a room?
It’s not instant like with motion?
You can make the motion trigger and presence to keep the light on. Rather than having presence to trigger it, which means false positives won’t even exist within automations so it doesn’t need to trigger the motion sensor check.
Think it's slower as it's a pulsed radar where motion at certain range is instant
But how much slower?
It would be nice to get response time ranges for these sensors so we know which to get for what reason. 🤔
Do you know a good cheap motion sensor working with WiFi?
I think you're missive my concepts as there is two use cases for them.
I'm currently using a sonoff motion sensor which is kinda weak
Still don’t get why the motion won’t be first priority to trigger in any automation and have the presence follow up.
Is your sonoff wifi?
Not sure where to ask, but I'm Curious on HVAC thermostat integrations.
Have forced air dual fuel (HE (NG) furnace and electric heat pum)
Heat pump is used all year, AC=summer and with electric rate it's cheaper than NG for most of winter.
Question is do I go the Ecobee route (I would also be able to tap into my utility's peak rewards program) or do I omit the option for peak rewards and just go zwave with the Honeywell T6 (or similar)?
@mint gulch Apparently the FP2 can also detect heartbeat… 🤯
But it is pricy so mostly good for large rooms.
AI just said this about mmWave technology:
- Eye safety: Because the eyes have less blood flow to dissipate heat, they are considered more sensitive to mmWave radiation than other parts of the body. However, as long as exposure levels remain within the established guidelines, the risk of eye damage is minimal.
- Long-term effects: While there is no conclusive evidence of long-term health effects from exposure to mmWave radiation, research is ongoing. Some studies have suggested potential effects on the nervous system and brain activity, but these findings are not definitive and require further investigation.
🤷♂️
Amazon Fire HD 10 (2023) or Samsung Galaxy A9+?
I agree - however, we know the Alexa division is losing money, and imagine if they made Amazon Echo devices to be open-sourced and integratable with Home Assistant and other platforms. Their hardware sales would go up and they could price the hardware higher than they do. Make money, be open source friendly at the same time.
I have a Carbine 3-in-1 lock, and about to replace it. Any suggestions on one that will work privately locally with HA?
Hey guys im in australia and have a bunch of dumb downlights. Is it possible to replace the switches to make dumb lights smart?
Anyone here has added a firestick to HA?
It days “IP address of the ADB server”; what is that for exactly? 🤔
Android Debug Bridge (ADB). You have to enable debugging on the firestick (find it in settings). Once you have that, ensure your firestick gets a static IP from your router. I've found it a challenge to get the firesticks to work successfully with HA and gave up. I'd be keen to see if anyone has been successful.
I’ve done the firestick settings part, and dedicated a static IP on router’s end.
But not sure how to do the settings part of it yet.
For Host I’m guessing I out the FireStick IP,
next it set to auto, next port is set to 555 by default(not sure if I need to change that),
Path to your ADB key file, says “leave empty to auto generate” so I guess it takes care of it for me
Next it says, “IP address of the ADB server”; what is that for exactly I have no idea.
Next port says 5037 by default(not sure if I need to change that).
@native magnet And another thing I’m trying to do is to add casting to my firestick; I got it to work by installing youtube. But I got other apps as well so not sure if it will work from nonYoutube sources.
what do you guys use for lightswitches for smart bulbs
Inovelli for zigbee zooz for zwave
Both have a smart bulb mode I believe
kinda expenny
Got it integrated, although not getting anything special from it.
Basically same controls I get from TV controls…
Found out I can do push notifications to it, so I’ll try that next.
If anyone knows how I can get more controls out it, it would be nice.
Got sidetracked, found out we can launch apps on the firestick from HA..? 🤔
Found the app ID names, now to figure out how to launch them. 🤷♂️
I see. There is not much you can do with it. Mine are connected via the Alexia Media Integration.
Hey there, I installed the Shelly 2PM for my Venetian blinds. I have seen multiple posts in the forum about workaround in order to control the tilt of the slats, but in the settings I see an option for tilt. The only issue is that the settings do not persist. Does this mean that the feature is still not available or am I missing something?
Well, there should be a lot that you can do with it if you set it up right, unless firestick firmware updates have changed it to block such things.
You should be able to launch apps from within HA, send notifications to it from HA(camera footage, or general text), or perhaps navigate to a specific location from a click of a button…
The casting to the firestick didn’t work for me, and I’m still trying to get the other stuff to work. See if you have better luck with it.
Zigbee radio with multiprotocol firmware detected
yellow_ncp-uart-hw_7.4.2.0.gbl is installed
multiprotocol support is disabled
all zigbee devices are unavailable
What can I do?
I dont get
Hey,
I have issues disabling the multiprotocol support..
I already tryed updating the firmware of the stick, disabling ZHA and Zigbee on Homeassistant before and restarted the system multiple times.
Any more ideas?
jump to #zigbee-archived
Beelink eq13 with coral b+m
remind me is that the n200
It's not the n200, n200 is optional
I moved the silicone pad that was there and replaced with a super thin heat sink pad
proofs:
I believe the n200 is 50 usd more than the n100 in the beelink eq13
Considering must thought the n100 was overkill I didn't go for the n200. But there's space for 2 coral tpu if needed
I probably should have bought two, oh well
Does anyone understand why this isn’t working?
Trying to launch the Youtube app from HA on my FireStick.
service: media_player.select_source
data:
source: com.amazon.firetv.youtube
target:
device_id: FireStickMax
@native magnet Would you know?
Hi, I have HA on RPi4 (installed on external SSD), powered over PoE hat from switch...
But sometimes it happens that HA "stuck/falls" - I can't even ping the IP, when I connect to the HDMI output, I can't see nothing. A restart is always required.
Is there any way to find out what happened?
Thanks a lot
If I had to guess, id say it's a power issue. These sbcs have very strict power requirements. I wouldn't even try running an rpi off poe
And the firestick integration works how..? 🤔
I know plenty about rpi, but I'm an HA noob, no idea
looking at picking some of these up - https://itead.cc/product/sonoff-zigbee-smart-water-valve/ - anyone ballpark shipping time from itead.cc to california?
Does anybody has a suggestion for good outdoor motion sensors?
Tag me when there’s a water leak pls
Zigbee? Zwave? WiFi? Hue has one, but it kinda sucks. Govee has one as well, but I don’t know of anyone actually having one.
Zigbee or WiFi would be awesome 🙂 looking for a solution to turn the sensors off in case we are doing a fire in our garden… so the lights don’t go on everytime someone moves … also thought about switching the lights with a Shelly but I don’t have much space in the case of the outdoor lights
You could try the Hue, but they’re pricy and I’ve not heard good things about them. I use some indoor sensors outside that work well, but they are protected from the weather under my eaves or other things.
Hmm ok thank you, maybe I need to overthink the solution a bit and try to get a case for the Shelly so I can turn off the lights
That would probably work better. Or, go with the Aqara relay. They are TINY. Or outdoor smart bulbs perhaps?
We just bought some outdoor lights 1,5years ago, my wife would kill me if I tell her to replace them again 😅
I use outdoor Wiz bulbs and they work really well. Been outside in some nasty conditions for 2-3 years now.
lol yeah, fair.
The Shelly 1mini is also really tiny, but it’s to big for the light case
Hmmmm… what about running a relay further up the wiring? So, not in the gang box directly, but possibly somewhere else along the circuit?
Don’t know exactly where the wires are coming from, no plan or something like this and we bought the house
Ugh. Yeah, that looks like it’d be a pain to trace the wiring for.
Yeah but I need to switch them, so I need to find a solution 🙂
They look like the bulbs are built in, right? Is it a single switch to control them?
There are LEDs inside.
It’s a single switch to turn all of them on or let they get controlled by the motion sensors… so I can’t really control them down in the electrical room… I think they are all connected one after another to a single string
Since it’s a single switch, why not just go with a smart switch?
Because the switch can’t turn them off… it’s 1: lights on 2: lights off but controlled by motion sensors
Ahhhhhh, gotcha. Yeah, that kinda sucks. 😦
ya man you'll have to redo your logic in home assistant for full control
It’s not in Home Assistant … this part of the house is fully analog
My sonoff temp stuff all works solidly. The tech on these things is pretty simple. I assume you are referring to the company, vs anything beyond that.
I've got a pedestal fan, and I'd like to be able to turn it on and off and change its speed remotely. The original switch connected 240 VAC to one of three outputs to pick one of three speeds, and disconnected everything when the fan was off. This feels like something I should be able to do with a cheap board that an ESP-01s plugs into. I know I could do it with one of the ones that's got four relays and a linear regulator so it can be powered from 5-12V, but:
- ideally I'd like to have it powered by the 240 VAC (I guess I could use a separate board for that, though)
- those boards don't have inputs for a physical switch to control it without going through Home Assistant, and I'd like to keep a physical switch.
- I'd be happier if there was a physical interlock so only one output could be connected at once, e.g. with a four-throw changeover relay if such a thing exists.
- I don't have a clue if this is practical, but it would be nice if the physical switch would move or otherwise indicate its current state - I'd rather not have LEDs because I use the fan when I'm trying to sleep and want it to be dark.
For some of these things, I'm not getting anything helpful when trying to google solutions, so even if no one knows anything about something that I can buy that does what I want, I'd still appreciate some tips with more appropriate search terms.
this sounds like youd be up for something that will exceed the cost of the fan significantly
I would have thought more people would have a FireStick 🤔
The best way to keep a Fire Tablet's battery fresh is to use a smart plug, start charging at 20% and stop charging at 80% right? or is there a built in feature like on samsung phones that stops charging at 80%, and doesn't require a plug?
not worth microoptimizing battery lifespan imo
the tablet is a dashboard. it will be always plugged in
idc about the battery as long as i dont have to replace it/it blows up
it wont blow up lol
i paid 25 eur for the tab, don't wanna pay 30 eur for a battery in 1.5 years
doesn't the constant charge/discharge affect it?
almost all videos i watched about dashboards used this plug thing
if its not required even better, as i don't feel like buying another smart plug
let the bms do it's job
imo
think about all the restaurants that use ipads as registers
is the one on the 2019 fire 10 tablet reliable ?
thanks
you just saved me half the price of the tablet i would have spend on a plug :D
np
Hey friends! The old PC I bought for my home server/home Assistant setup has an Nvidia NVS 300. Should I bother trying to set it up or just stick with the integrated graphics? I read online that this card has a bunch of security vulns that aren't patched. Is this true?
you did read it on the internet 🙂
there's a lot of missing variables in your statement, so can't really help. (What's the PC you are running, are you running HAOS or something else, do you mean the drivers for the video card, and if so, what OS, etc)
My policy on running hardware for HA is keep it simple. Do you need the NVS300 for anything, no, remove it from the equation.
And a tiny bit of google - https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4213
Does anyone here use Wattbox PDUs as controllable power distribution? I was attracted to the form factor, the local HA (hacs) integration, and the on-device monitoring, but I bought a used on on EBay and it arrived half broken. It’s a bad capacitor, and apparently a known issue with the 700-line. I don’t really feel like re-capping the whole thing so I’m going to return it.
But now I’m torn about replacing it with another used Wattbox. I’m turned off by their “AV-integrator only” sales and support, and I’m afraid of putting all my critical networking gear behind another single point of failure.
Curious if anyone has experience with Wattbox or has an alternative. I could get one of the TPlink power strips I guess, but I was hoping for something more robust and preferably Ethernet, not WiFi.
get any used electronics, better be ok with re-capping. It's a way of life...
Not if we can get launch to work, that way we can click a button in HA and have a specific app launch without ever seeing any ADs.
So what am I doing wrong here?
service: media_player.select_source
data:
source: com.amazon.firetv.youtube
target:
device_id: FireStickMax
It's been mostly duct tape, cardboard, and a couple of 3D printed parts for a long time, so that was always going to be the case even just with an ESP-01s.
Last time I used the fire stick they patched over being able to bind custom launchers
So I got rid of it
Idk if there are any workarounds yet
I need a custom launcher for that?
I thought all it takes was to turn ADB within the FireStick and it allows to send commands to the firestick.
You need a custom launcher for it to boot into the app you want when you hit home
I don’t want to hit home; I want to click on an icon within HA and have it launch the app within FireStick.
Is the code I put wrong?
Sometimes I wonder if drugs would’ve been a cheaper addiction
Those are not my pink clothes btw..
That's what someone with pink clothes would say 😉
I’m more of a purple guy
Just found this
https://youtu.be/18QapR913Kk
And this
https://youtu.be/gDnoCixOj8k
But they’re like 3 years old….
We've already rid ourselves of the television and soundbar remotes, now it's time to rid ourselves of that pesky Fire TV Stick remote. In this video we will use the ADB addon to control our firestick through home assistant, ridding us of yet another remote and creating an all in one solution for our entertainment center. Enjoy and stay tuned f...
In todays video we will be having a look at how to display notifications on your TV using Home Assistant. You will need to be using an Android TV or Fire TV device. This will allow you to simply send notifications as an overlay on the screen. I will be showing a simple notification and also a notification with an image. You can send a notificati...
What code
This code/script or whatever it’s called.
service: media_player.select_source
data:
source: com.amazon.firetv.youtube
target:
device_id: FireStickMax
Anyone have an HDMI switch configured through broadlink RM4? Would you share the codes you're using please?
I got some Aoycocr SW1 that were flashed with Tasmota- Is it possible to get the ip's and connect them or do I need to go throught a complete reflash and setup?
I can’t find a place to put the MTR1 where it detects me everywhere :/
This says Jun 22 so it is relatively recent. Can you help me figure it out using this?
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/launch-amazon-prime-app-on-firestick/433165/3
I have a computer with no OS installed, how can i install homeassistant on it? can i install just haos directly instead of going through linux or windows (this computer wouldn't even let me change to 2 cpus on virtualbox)
If you want bare metal installation: https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/generic-x86-64/
If the machine has plenty of CPU/RAM/Storage and you might want to use it for other VMs, you might want to try Proxmox: https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html
thanks so much!
Virtualbox is... fine... but it's not the most reliable virtualisation for things you want running 24/7
Basically everyone says to use proxmox now
Proxmox is just a customised Debian Linux distribution with a nice GUI, but it makes things really easy
okay, ill check it out. thanks!
This works: (for Prime Video)
service: androidtv.adb_command
data:
command: >-
am start
com.amazon.firebat/com.amazon.firebat.deeplink.DeepLinkRoutingActivity
target:
entity_id: media_player.fire_tv
How can I modify it to have this instead? (for youtube)
com.amazon.firetv.youtube
I just used Balena Etcher and it corrupted the flash drive. i reallocated it and its fine now but idk what happened. ill try again
Has anyone here used a SLZB-06 with Unifi as their networking? Were you able to get an IP address on the device using ethernet? I am having a lot of difficulty
Getting this error in home assistant, not sure if there is a bot that reads the logs and spits out an answer but ill send my logs
exec /init: exec format error
I scored all my wiz lights via ebay and local discounts. Got recessed 5/6 colored lights for about $8/each. The ebay ones were "non-matter capable", the local store with white-ambience ones are. Just generational, all are hooked up on the direct wiz/wifi control in HA.
The other bit, is the hypervisor is KVM/QEMU, more open source.
Ok, youtube worked with this:
service: androidtv.adb_command
data:
command: >-
am start com.amazon.firetv.youtube
target:
entity_id: media_player.fire_tv
but another app isn’t working. 🤔
Perhaps this can help if anyone understands it..?
https://setup.buttonmapper.app
If I gain access to the FireStick’s terminal, would that help..?
Anyone..? 🤷♂️
Sonoff ZBMINI to control "a" light (up to 4x60W LEDs in a garage) whilst still letting the normal switch work? Are they any good? Specifically looking at the 230V that would be sold in Sweden.
Many thanks!
EDIT: requiring a neutral is no problem, every lightswitch also has a power socket next to it, so it already has a neutral.
The ZBMINI would be fine for that. Shelly would be my first choice, but for Zigbee, the ZBMINI is ok.
I also have wifi, but have a large zigbee network with a zzh!.
Would you go away from zigbee? Why would you choose Shelly over Sonoff? I only looked away from Shelly as some of the relays from them had caught fire, I kind of "blacklisted" them in my head.
Thanks for the reply
I remember that, but tbh, they've gotten a lot better in terms of quality. The reason I would choose Shelly over Sonoff is because WiFi is usually more stable than Zigbee. Granted, I have about the same number of devices on both (>100 Wifi, >100 Zigbee). But the Shelly also offers MQTT support and targeted control over HTTP. Sonoffs aren't bad, per se. But I've seen issues with them in metal gang boxes (which I have here).
If you're using Z2M, then you already have the MQTT part, but ZHA, not so much. If you're looking for just basic control, go Sonoff on your Zigbee mesh. If you want more advanced control (on board schedules and such), go with a Shelly.
question, this morning im not able to connect to my HA.local or by my ip address. Im able to connecet via nabu casa tho?
Not really a hardware question. Try #general-archived
sorry
What do you guys use for diffusing led strips
i cant believe you would ever post a question in the wrong channel. do you even understand what this means? how dare you.
YOU TOO ^
When I look up led strip diffusing tape all I see is aluminium profile with plexiglass insert
if you have a sandblaster or just literal sandpaper that would work
sand blasters look better tho
diffuser tape is sold at bestbuy
in a roll
You can also buy "audiophile" network cables there
Any chance you could reshare this code? I lost my ESPHome install, and liked you version a lot.
i have even better now
Hi all
I could use some guidance on protocols and how to sort which is appropriate for my use case.
Zigbee, matter, wifi, zwave, etc.... Searching about all of them puts me in a redundant definition about "allowing smart devices to communicate" but that doesn't really help narrow anything down.
I have some smart plugs and motion sensors going through Tuya right now and I'm not satisfied with the delay those devices have. Whether it's due to Tuya cloud or power savings on those devices I don't know, but as I feel out and explore what I can do with HA... this is something I want to avoid
The jist of what I want, in order of importance to me:
- Low latency
- Local only
- No ongoing subscriptions to services (one time hardware purchases are fine)
- All data connectivity will be wireless, wi-fi or otherwise. And all power will be hard-wired (I don't care to fiddle with batteries)
So with that said, is there a significant advantage of one or the other? Again, this is coming about because I'm dissatisfied with latency of some of my current devices and I want to get that sorted. And my google-fu on protocols isn't giving any helpful info
Thanks so much!
- throttle_average: 60s
``` before it wasnt using this
and therefore was spamming wifi talking constantly about shit that didnt need constant updates
when i was showing bdraco error logs for a beta test he noticed over 6000 calls a minute from esphome from my sonoff plugs spamming lol
not-ideal-dot-jiff
I'm on and off about whether I like these hue bulbs or not
I wish they were just a liiitle bit brighter
the color is nice but like it's a bit dim
maybe supplementing with strips will help
also need another lamp for the third bulb
did you buy 1600lumen bulbs?
nah
