#hardware-archived
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lol, the eq12 is now 205 instead of 209
argh! i just checked out
oh you did buy n100
yes
the n200 link above for $249 **is nice
altho then you jump from $160 to $249 @twilit relic
he bought the n100 eq12
should i cancel my order? i got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C89TQ1YF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
err ya that one
well it was $200
160 isn't bad
there was a $40 coupon
all you had to do was click a box
did you not even look at the item?
lmao
ah fuck no that was yesterday - today it's 20% off making it $160.. cuz amazon be tricky like that
yolo
damn scamazon
so basically you'd go from $160 to $250 but get an n200 cpu instead of n100 and i think a better ssd
tbh prob not worth it for your use case
ok so, this is what is good for me then? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C89TQ1YF/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=AC2C0BRRGLY5X&th=1
ye
phew, ok. i cancelled it anyway because for some reason the price went back up to $199 in the cart.
ya easy fix
i have the identical model it's a beastly little thing
nice, ty!
Do you need to buy new? Can save about 50% buying used ex-corporate sff
he's moving on from a pi let the man enjoy some freedom hahaha
you can get n100 used?
if you are attempting to run frigate, having a pretty recent cpu/gpu helps transcoding
Used would be something like a i5-6500T or 7500T or similar
Roughly similar
But depends if you care about the price difference vs that shiny new feeling ๐
For me, old is fine, you should have seen the rack of computers I bought by the pound, but this I'm buying today is going in a business
I used to have a rack of old hp proliants, when I'd turn them on, I'd have to turn off the heat ๐คฃ
Those lenovo are like 6-10W, small stuff.
Weโve been shouting mini pcs from the rooftops for a few years now- the n100 is still $50-100 more than the older intels but has a better igpu plus faster ssd ram etc
Iโve got one of each lol
N100 came into picture like a year ago or so
At least here
Yup, neither option is bad
yeah, I'm a fan of QOTOM, but they don't make an n100 afaik, I have one of their celeron models as my router, has been solid
has a nice aluminum case with the fins
Iโm not sure thereโs anything special with beelink but theyโve been reliable and go on sale on Amazon a lot so easy links
yeah, they seem to do a lot of business
I can never remember if (or which models) the Fire tablets are even suitable for HA dashboard use
@deft copper what do you think about this one?
Tbh...I'm not looking forward to replacing batteries..and from what I can see getting tablets to run on direct power sucks
So i'm still thinking about dashboards
@cold moon you can rest easy. HA is no longer running in wsl and is now on bare metal and running happily
Is it possible that my Zigbee coordinator would work for matter/thread>?
anddd..how would I find out
SO, I am just getting into the bottomless rabbit hole that is Home Assistant. I just got all my Minisplits set up.
Next is Lights.
I have an older home so most of the lights on the main floor are on plugs. My house is also large, so would Zigbee or mwave be better? Would I need multiple hub/base unit/whatevers? I require 3 wifi APs to cover my house and yard with decent wifi.
I think I'm going to need 8 smart plugs, and 8 switches for simple lights. If I have a room with multiple switches, do I need to replace all of them with smart switches, or just one?
You mean multiple switches that control the same circuit?
Yes. My kitchen has 3 switches that control the overhead lights. All the same lights. So I can walk in one door and flip them on, and out the other side and flip them off.
Similar for our bedroom hallway, but has 4 switches.
4 switches for the same circuit? That must be one long hallway!
my living room has 3 switches
wild
first time ive ever seen it
its a single light too
You are looking for a "3 way" smart switch, it wouldn't be your run of the mill smart switch. I can't make any suggestions on that though
Yeah but would you only have to replace ONE of those switches with a smart switch to control it? im pretty sure yes
Well, there lies the problem...
I like zooz zwave or inovelli blue zigbee switches
They can do physical or virtual 3 way 4 way etc (zooz will be model dependent)
I was going to say, the Inovelli smart switches have "Aux (add-on)" switches that you can add to a multi-way switch system
What do you mean by older lights are plugs? Like a lamp connected to an outlet?
Yes exactly. I could prob get a smart bulb, but they don't seem to be much cheaper than a smart plug, and I don't have to replace it when it burns out.
But that's just cost-wise. I don't know all the ramifications for functionality.
lol, it' a branched hallway. There is a switch outside of each bedroom. People who built it originally were stupid rich, so there is all kinds of interesting things about the house. The moulding is insane!
LIFX bulbs are on sale on Amazon right now, connect to WiFi, and can be controlled locally. Only time I've had any real issue with them has been due to my Wireless AP acting up
My wfifi is solid ๐ That is one thing I am sure of.
Yeah, I was hoping to snag some stuff during prime day ๐
Hello friends! looking for an outdoor shade to smartify. anyone have product suggestions?
Philips Wiz bulbs from home depot work locally
$8
I've only seen the Hue series, is the Wiz series WiFi based?
I have a couple Hue ones.
Neat! I'm pretty locked into the LIFX ecosystem, but definitely good to know for others ๐
Philips Wiz look pretty good. $12/bulb for the ones I want. Or $55 for a 4-pack
What marketing idiot priced that?
he hasnt had issues with them
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-HS200-Neutral-Certified-Required/dp/B01EZV35QU these seem suspicously cheap?
Control your lights, ceiling fans, and other fixtures from anywhere with the HS200. The smart switch replaces any standard light switch, and connects to your home Wi-Fi in no time through the free Kasa app. Kasa also lets you manage connected fixtures with your smartphone or tablet, including set...
I've heard good things about the KASA stuff
That's because it collects all your data and sends it to Microsft and Amazon
It is TP-Link, so it isn't some no-name brand at least
COMPLETELY making that up
i know this switch isnt a 3way, but couldnt you just grab 1 3 way switch, throw it in the same circuit as regular switches and it work just fine?
i dont see why it wouldnt
No, because the smart switch won't know the state of the other switches
As my daughter would say, "womp womp"
Your typical switch is binary - on/off. A 3-way switch is more like A/B, and the on or off state depends on the status of the other switch
Also, I HATE that they call it a 3 or 4 -way switch... It isn't! They only have 2 positions
yeah thats stupid
It's the wiring ๐ Electrician took 4 tries to get the hallway right when we rewired the house
must not live in the us?
I do
Oh
Are you using Matter, Zigbee, or Z-Wave, Nitro? If so, Inovelli has smart switches that can be added to multi-way switch set ups. You put the Smart switch in one place, then the rest use their Aux Switch... good for 3-way, or higher
zigbee
Then you'd pick a Blue Series Smart Switch: https://inovelli.com/collections/inovelli-blue-series
And add however many Aux swiches you need for that circuit:
https://inovelli.com/products/white-series-add-on-aux-switch
I've read good things about them, but have no experience with them
Yeah, big money but if they work reliably then ๐คท
this is an apartment tho :kek:
god dammit
my emojis dont work here
this place is too restricted
:LUL:
I'm not sure I'd replace switches in my apartment... doing the thermostat was slightly pushing it
๐ณ
wasnt told i couldnt tho... ๐ LMAO
smart bulbs suck, if u flip the switch then boom its offline & useless
LOL, well I guess I will replace that 10A breaker with a 20A
now THAT might be a little unwise
BACK IN MY DAY.... I had X10 all over my apartment. Took it all with me. I've also run Cat6 through my last two apartments. One I left, the other one (where I was given permission), the a-hole kicked us out with 2 week notice. So I pulled a much of the wire out of the wall and reach as far up into the wall as possible to cut the wires. But I left the wall jacks ๐
installing a 10A breaker with a "living room" circuit that has all the outlets, the ceiling fan, AND the entryway light and overhead kitchen lights all on it was more unwise in my opinion
hell yeah lmao
i have a 15a breaker being shared by both bedrooms
I'm in a 1br... my bedroom has a 20A breaker, my bathroom has a 20A breaker. My kitchen has 3x 20A breakers... Why TF is my livingroom on a 10A breaker? ๐ก
The conduit is definitely good for 15A, but I'd honestly be surprised if they ran 15A conduit just for this circuit, then 20A conduit for the rest of the apartment
I have a 12AWG extension cable running from my kitchen to my server rack because it can't be on the same circuit as my other stuff :kekw:
I got the LL special..look at all the paint seepage in there ๐คฎ
"LL special"? never heard of that one
Ah gotcha
also all the switches ive looked at so far are backstabbed
which afaik is a fire hazard
hey folks, does anyone know of a device to power on/off USB ports?
Surprisingly, the National Electrical Code does not disallow backstabbing, despite the dangers.
interesting..
i cant tell if my lights have neutrals or if its just the white paint they slopped everywhere
...something like a 'SONOFF Micro USB Smart WiFi Adaptor' but with more ports
So you are looking for a USB hub that also has smart switching per port?
my lightswitch in the kitchen does this cool thing where if you hold it halfway on/off it freaks out and starts making a cool buzzing sound
yep, thats it
I don't think you are going to be able to find that readymade... how good are you with a soldering iron?
so so, im def. looking for something readymade, at this stage
I was going to say you could grab one of these and replace the buttons with relays controlled by an ESP or something: https://sabrent.com/products/hb-bup7
Gross, embeds. Stop that, Discord.
id say replacing a switch (responsibly & knowledgeably) falls under "use in a reasonable manner" ๐
Does "mining cryptocurrency with 3 rigs" fall under "use in a reasonable manner" of electrical? ๐ค
probably
I had a flat rate power plan... $114/month.
After a year of mining the power company called me and said "We see you are using a lot of power, we can no longer allow you to use this plan but if you'd like to move to our commercial flat rate plan, it would be $400/month.
DAMN
Needless to say... I no longer mine crypto.
It was also lowkey detrimental to my mental health, having all those fans running 24/7
thanks for the suggestion
funnily enough, someone asked about something similar on the reddits: https://www.reddit.com/r/UsbCHardware/comments/13mc5hk/smart_usb_adaptor_with_onoff_does_it_it_exist/
i'm also looking for a generic zigbee 'smart switch' that plugs into a power outlet, does that exist?
The SONOFF device must not have existed back then, because it is the perfect usecase for this poster, as long as USB2.0 is okay
Just texted the landlord asking for permission to swap out a few switches for smart ones
wish me luck bois
i work for the city, so i have electrical inspectors under my belt if absolutely needed lol
Oh nice, I've just been an electronics nerd since I was like.. 3 years old and taking apart all manner of electronics. I've done plenty of 120v AC work, as well as some 240vAC work, but worry that doing anything myself in this apt complex will get me in legal hot water...
man if i was installing smart switches in my apartment i would totally just diy it
same, ive replaced plenty of switches/outlets in my day
the cool thing about doing it is you can still take them with when you leave
and install them elsewhere
they arent consumable
yup. im going with smart lightbulbs though
cheaper
theres just not much more that annoys me than when a physical flip is switched and now my bulb is offline and uncontrollable
100%. but i wanted to be able to change the temp also
fair enough
i have a couple innr bulbs im gonna put in the lamps in my living room
for mood lighting while watching tv
I'm not the best person to ask, tbh. I haven't kept up with how much Amazon locks down or neuters the Fire tablets these days
As for power, wire the tablet to a smart plug
Turn on when battery hits 30%
Turn off at 70~80%
Yeah, Samsung A series is probably what I would pick
anyone else notice the number of items in ur amazon cart is blue rn
instead of yellow
why does amazon STILL not have a dark mode bruh
they should know most purchases are made late at night in bed
Dark Reader.
no reason nowadays to not just keep devices constantly charged, there is internal circuitry to limit battery degredation
^ ..perhaps, this might help me
just need to find a supported hub ๐ฌ
In my case, I'd say it's a disability accomodation, due to mobility issues
I feel like theres only so much of that they'll take before just deciding ur too much work lol
but i have a "close" relationship with my leasing office
Re-asking because it's been a day or two:
So I bought a few zigbee light switches today, thinking that the home I was going to put them in (being that it is only 2 years old) would have neutral wires. Turns out, not really. And the same brand does do a no-neutral version, but it appears to use a capacitor wired in parallel with a load, supposedly at the light itself.
Small problem. The fixtures don't appear to be resident removable (or they're at least stuck in stupidly hard), so I can't get to the wiring to put the cap there.
So the ask is: does anyone have recommendations for (relatively speaking) inexpensive US specced single gang zigbee switches? Very fine with Ali Express/Temu/Bangood
Hoping one that has the cap built into the switch so I don't have other spare parts dangling around (i have a Cync Wifi dimmer switch that does that, but ... ew)
there's limits that they can do in the US because it's my responsibility to return the unit back to stock condition at the end. So as long as I put back regular switches or pay someone to, as long as I'm not making a safety risk ... (and no, I don't consider Tuya that much of a safety risk ๐ )
I'd return the switches and get this
No neutral needed and Zigbee: https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-REQUIRES-Automation-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B081ZQWX1F (was recommended this and considering them myself as well)
NOTES: This device requires the Aqara Smart Home Hub to Work. We don't guarantee that our devices can be used with other third party brand hubs. Requires a secured 2. 4 gigahertz Wi-Fi network connection. One Aqara Hub can connect up to 32 Aqara devices.Note: AqaraDirect sells all official US ver...
As long as it doesn't need the capacitor, I'm fine with that idea
capacitor for what?
some no-neutral switches require a capacitor across the lamp to keep the line just live enough to power the zigbee controller without turning on the light
havent heard of that before, but there are some reviews on this aqara one saying its a fire hazard..wtf
and apparenly the area I live can have brand new buildings with switches that have no neutral wire
thats against code methinks
I think there's a neutral wire in the wall, but the basic switches don't have a place to plug in the neutral, just line, load and ground
Nothing hanging out behind the switch in the box?
just use the neutral in the wall with a neutral compatible switch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duSFZDRzy6E but here's an example of a UK spec switch that has no neutral and needs the capacitor
No Neutral Smart Light Switch UNBOXING AND COMPLETE SETUP
Unboxing and setup of the Zemismart smart WiFi Switch, with no neutral wire required, with step by step guide on how to install on the wall safely.
WiFi Smart Wall Light Switch, No Neutral Wire Required, No Hub Required, Compatible with Alexa and Google Home, APP Remote Control, Timing Fu...
I had to look at it to understand how some of the US versions are done
I'm not -entirely- sure that the other bundle of wires in the box is neutral, but there are a few wires in a wire nut and aren't connected to the switch I was checking on
those would be neutral then if they are bundled together and attached to nothing else
should have a white jacket..
And I'd rather do a drop in replacement if I can as opposed to replacing wiring. Not to mention that's my sister's house. My house is old wiring that has no neutral at all
is there a downside to using wifi switches vs zigbee? anyone know?
coughs I think they didn't use standard colors, or painted over wires by accident. I didn't take a pic, but I seem to recall two sets of white and one black (plus the ground)
I have a cync wifi switch in my living room. It ... works.
That's the best I can say
The physical switch is just fine, but the wifi keeps dropping even though the access point is less than 10 feet away
rip
so automations are going to be hit and miss. Not to mention wifi will most likely sync to the cloud for API, which makes response time slower than a purely local zigbee system (not to mention more points of failure from internet/server/hacker)
it's part of why I'm digging into finding a good option. Knowing Aquara makes what I need helps, just gonna look for pricing options. AliExpress carries a lot of aquara
yea im just kinda wary now seeing this on the aqara
Looks good to me, I say send it!
i cant even imagine what happened there
odd
aqara is usually a recommended from people around here for lower cost parts
I've been using tuya, which everyone here hates, but ... as of yet I haven't seen anything like that
these seem to be like the only "decent" priced zigbee switches
looks like the kasa wifi switches it is
but yeah, my next challenge will be that I have one switch plate in my house that has a dual gang box, and I'm not sure how to mount two smart switches (or cover up the rest of the box if I use a 2 gang switch)
wdym
Are they switches that stick out, while your smart switches are the flat panel style?
unless they are two different styles... dual gang switches are literally just two single gang switches mounted side by side
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU $11.98 for regular, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ $14.99 for dimmer ๐ค hmmmm hard decision..
Control your lights, ceiling fans, and other fixtures from anywhere with the HS200. The smart switch replaces any standard light switch, and connects to your home Wi-Fi in no time through the free Kasa app. Kasa also lets you manage connected fixtures with your smartphone or tablet, including set...
Wi-Fi Enabled Smart Dimmer Switch with brightness control. Note1: Requires neutral wiring. If no neutral wire is present, installation cannot be completed. Note2: Works in single pole wiring only. Note3: Requires a secured 2.4 GHz wireless home connection. Please consult a professional electricia...
right, but then smart switches seem to be designed to fully replace a single gang switch, plate and all. Meaning that the screw holes won't line up for the second switch
i can get a pic if i'm being confusing
get a pic cause my dad has smart and regular side by side in the same box
Yeha, might be specific to the switches you have?
give me a few, need to get props ๐
So the first picture is to single gang switches side by side over my original double gang switch box. Second picture the right switch has its hole lined up with the mounting hole on the right switch, showing how far out of the way the left switch is meaning there is no way I can mount the two of them to the same box
They do make switches that will handle both switches at the same time, using the same form factor as a single switch, but then I've got all that empty air and hole in the wall from what's not being covered because as far as I know I haven't seen any wall plates that would cover that hole unless I get something blank and basically cut my own which seems like a real pain in the butt
sir
What switches are those @limber elm ? Those look like low voltage switches that shouldn't be near line voltage AC
which ones?
The ones with the exposed circuit boards kekw
y tho
that's the wiring underneath the capacitace touch button
You take the cover off to get the mounting holes
well, i guess capacticitave because they're glass
but the switches are supposedly rated for 120-240VAC, up to 800W per gang
they dont have like..wires?
in this case, a single outdoor LED light on one and a single smart bulb on the second
back side
LOL, the "2 gang" switches look like elevator call buttons
You going up or down?
thats more normal looking
I believe that's exactly what's in my hand, just the wifi version, not the zigbee version
also that one requires neutral, which is a non-starter
I mean, these were for another application and testing
I have no idea the switch I would need in practice at the moment
I wouldn't install something that is only CE rated... self certifications are meaningless with unscrupulous sellers
It is like the FBI investigating itself for wrongdoing ๐
fair, but to an extent this is also an issue of figuring out what parts I need, so I've been buying cheap for education and baseline building, then I replace parts with better ones as the chance arrives
don't even start with me on that ๐
Iโm from the government and Iโm here to help
If you move away from the capacitive "switch" you can get drop-in replacements that'll double gang without issue
In fairness, until last year I had a Western Pacific braker box. They were known for breakers failing in the 'short' position. Only reason they weren't researched and recalled was becaause the company went bankrupt first
place was and is a deathtrap already
but grandfathered city code
grandfathered safety codes should be criminal.
and when you got a borerline slumlord ...
"This is a death trap, but it is old and the materials are more likely to catch fire and not self-extinguish so we are going to 'grandfather' it in and claim it is safe" ๐
"But fixing it is expensive!"
Grandfathered code should not exist
If I can't make 95% profit, what's the point of being a landlord in the first place?
Just going to file that away under "reasons I welcome the asteroid"
I'm researching gravity generators. Pull the asteroid to us
Quick dumb question but google has failed me: is there a good go to for a smart plug for energy monitoring for like, an air conditioner in the us?
I found a few on amazon that are hypothetically rated for that kind of current, but theres a lot of photos of ones that have caught fire.
are you looking for HA integration? If so what protocol (Wifi, Z-wave, zigbee, whatever)
A plug that works with HA would be nice. I don't think im particular on protocol but i'd prefer either wifi or zigbee
Fair warning, I'm not a good person to ask since I use tuya for mine and everyone hates them
but figured the protocol would be good to know. country and desired cost range may be good to know
I'm none too picky on brand as long as it works and wotn burn my house down
https://amz.run/9QH8 I will say I haven't heard anything negative about ThirdReality, and the two temp humidity meters I bought from them a few weeks ago have been lovely
i'm protocol agnostic but i'd have to learn zigbee if i go that route, which is fine. I'm pretty budget agnostic to an extent, i'm gonna prefer less burny if it means more money
but that should do exactly what you want
no photos of burned up units in the reviews, we like to see that
https://amz.run/9QHA Not sure what they mean by 'Wi-fi' matter, unless they mean it's matter running over wifi (still not used to that protocol yet), but this seems like the exact part you'd probably prefer if US based
THIRDREALITY Smart Plug M1: Elevate Your Smart Home Experience Dive into a seamless integration with the THIRDREALITY Smart Plug M1, a Matter-certified marvel designed for the future. Through Matter over WiFi, it promises dependable local control, bypassing cloud dependencies and ensuring functio...
15A rating, and my window AC only pulls 3.6 when it's running right now
the first one can do zigbee repeating which would be ace if i decide i need to stick door monitors around
yeah, if you're starting with zigbee, it would be a good choice
if you don't have a controller I've been super happy with the SkyConnect ZBT-1 that they make for HA. ~$35 or so with shipping from California and about as plug and play as you can get
oh yeah i was gonna ask about that too haha
I tried to go cheap and use hardware I already had (Samsung hub) and half my zigbee stuff just refused to work and the plugs were reporting 100x the actual power draw
lol oh no
I still wanna spike it into the dumpster, just not sure yet if there -is- a use for it, since I do use samsung phone, watch and smarttags
once i got things working, I paired my smart plug with a $3 aliexpress temp/humidity sensor and the 'generic thermostat' helper in HA and made a smart thermostat to run the AC based on time of day and if I'm home and stuf
its gonna be one of those things where it gets spiked and then you read online that one very specific device does extremely well with the samsung repeaters
pretty much
I should get an IR blaster so i can control my AC while i'm away
I wanna find one thats offline
My ac apparently didnโt come with a remote and doesnโt have IR capabilities sadly
i'll probably need that for the living room AC
the bedroom is a 'dumb' one. As long as it's set to max cold, it runs when it has power, so smart plug does the job
thats clever haha
the IR one is fun because I was able to setup temperature presets on my flipper so I mostly use that to control it when I'm home rather than the remote it came with
they do make IR blasters, I think the recommended one is WiFi, but works well with HA
I wouldnt mind a wifi one
https://amz.run/9QHE This is the one I keep hearing good things about. 2.4G wifi, handles IR and RF, and a decent price
RM4 pro supports both IR and RF controlled appliances, all in one turns your smartphone into a universal remote and integrates control of home entertainment and automation devices in one easy-to-use app BroadLink. RM4 pro works with Alexa/Google Assistant/IFTTT. When paired with Alexa, it gives y...
oooo
does it require cloud connection or can it go offline
seems liek it can if you set it up half way
that i don't know
at the moment i think the only thing i'd need it for is my living room AC. I thought I would for my sister's AC, but I'm pretty sure there's an ESP based USB stick that will make it smart
Thinking about it i think my sisters AC is the one that can use an ESP usb stick as well
i spotted this ... https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006406053419.html
Looks like that just switches power, but doesn't actually pass data. Were you just looking to turn power to a USB device on/off, without actually passing data to/from it?
yep, just need usb power
i plan to get some of those later
Oh, I mean... I would have just gotten a smart switch and an Anker USB power supply. Just turn the whole USB power supply on/off ๐คฃ
i need to be able to power on/off individual usb ports
my $project is a grow box for fungi.. im looking to control a fan, heat_pad, and mister/atomizer
..hopefully i can power these, from this USB switch
A USB powered heat pad?
'Mini USB Charging Aquarium heating rod Fish Tank Aquarium Heater Submersible Thermostat Heater Adjustable Temperature 18-34ยฐC'
Input power: 5V 2A
Hope the fan and atomizer aren't more than 0.5A total, otherwise you are over capacity on that USB switch
I have so many issues trusting electronics from Aliexpress, personally...
Individual components are one thing, but whole products worry me
yep, agreed. i still find it useful for 'initial product research'
i could upgrade the heaters to a smart AC power strip
I'd do something like this, then go with AC powered fan(s), heater, and humidifier: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Protector-Required-KP303/dp/B083JKSSR5
With independent control of 3 devices and extra USB ports to charge 2 others, the Kasa smart Wi-Fi power strip is ideal for your family rooms, home office or small business, power up your office remotely and even your holiday lights. Remotely control each outlet with the Kasa smart app or use voi...
Then you get 2USB ports that can be used to run an ESP32 device or two that are sampling temp, humidity, CO2, etc
i havent got to the sensor/sampling bit yet. thanks for the advice
I think all the USB ports are on a single switch though
aah, makes sense
only one status indicator LED by the USB ports
Also makes me think the 2.1A rating is shared across all 4 USB ports
Almost 2AM my time ๐ฌ I gotta get to sleep.
Anyone aware of any smart edison led bulbs?
Can anyone tell me the diff between the "Canopy 2 in 1 Switch Combo" and the "Canopy Fan Switch Combo"
It's back and better than ever. Inovelli's Fan/Light Canopy Module! This little module is 33% smaller than it's predecessor and is designed to fit perfectly in your fans canopy with room to spare. Enjoy individual control of your fan speed and light dim level from your favorite smart home app (see hub compatibility for
About five bucks, by the looks ๐คฃ
That's what I see too, I'm hoping someone smarter than me can see the diff
Yeah I can't figure it out either
As to the bulbs, Hue make some pretty decent ones
And it doesn't look like their button to figure out which to buy works
Even CCT (cold-to-warm) versions: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-Hue-60-Watt-Equivalent-G25-Smart-LED-Vintage-Edison-Tuneable-White-Light-Bulb-with-Bluetooth-1-Pack-563593/316378117
Bluetooth? Interesting, how do I get that set up in HA?
I don't think you do, generally. You'd set them up with Zigbee
Hue apparently do some Bluetooth only bulbs now
Oh good, muddying the waters. That one I linked at least has a zigbee logo on the side of the box.
Now what hub do I get for the Inovelli Blue ? Says Zigbee 3
ty
Hello all! I'm considering of buying cameras for my home.
I don't need to have recognitions or etc. at the moment
I have HA with rPI 4 + 500GB SSD
My idea is to be able to check my dog and have sever hours of video saved in the SSD
My only priority is for the camera to be only locally.
From what i see i can use Frigate (and later add Google Coral if i wan't to have recognitions), for this and my idea is to use this camera Reolink E1 Zoom (E340) 5MP 2K+ WiFi
supported protocols SSL, TCP/IP, UDP, IPv4, UPnP, RTSP, SMTP, NTP, DHCP, DNS, DDNS, P2P
I have a Deco X55 mesh at home that's why i'm considering WiFi camera and not PoE, but if there are no good WiFi cameras for my job i will add a PoE switch if needed
Thanks in advance!
Can anyone recommend a zigbee cct controller that works with zigbee2mqtt? Iโve had the worst luck getting devices to work lately and I just want to add some cct cobs to the kitchen so I can see what Iโm cooking
#cameras-archived can better help there
#zigbee-archived can better help there, but try the Gledopto controllers
Thanks
Will do, I thought that was specifically for issues with zigbee.. tnx
Hiya! Could someone point me in the direction of a HA compatible budget cat feeder?
Search pet feeder
Hrmm. I'm still having trouble finding a zwave switch or something to buddy with it to turn it off after N seconds. Iv got a switch that I can set to be off on power restore but that won't protect me from a dead zwave controller not sending it off to begin with and would like to have a lower tech trip mechanism to turn off a pump in that situation.
E.g. client side countdown timer, client side moisture probe for high eater level built into switch
An explicit external hardwired low voltage trip mechanism built into the plug would also work fine but then rewuire I find a suitable low voltage sensor
Looks like I need a sump pump controller. Zwave plug plugs in there and it's upstream plug will turn it off if the super-high water level gets hit
Aqara has a Zigbee 3.0 pet feeder
My only real complaint is even the lowest feed setting feeds too much food if the kibble size is too small
Iโm thinking about blocking one or two channels so it canโt feed as much as it does now
Damn. Got shut down, apartment said no replacing switches
Just let them eat. Cats donโt need portioned food like dogs do
Do WiFi bulbs have any advantage over zigbee or is zigbee just flat out superior
Depends on what you are using for WiFi and how decent your Zigbee mesh is. Personally, I prefer WiFi bulbs over Zigbee bulbs.
But why? They specifically asked for an advantage.
Duh. you're right. I forgot to answer that. It's been a morning.
So, for me, it was price and features. I found the Wiz bulbs to be able to do more than most Zigbee bulbs can and are also more reliable. Not that my mesh is bad by any means, but my WiFi network is more reliable.
I'm looking to get a Reolink video doorbell. I think I've seen them recommended before, does anyone have any suggestions? As far as I can tell I should just be able to install + connect to wifi. It shouldn't need any additional hub or hardware right?
I have the WiFi doorbell. No hub needed. There's a native integration into HA.
Nice, that's the one I'm looking at. Been considering it for awhile but it looks like they're on sale right now so I'm gonna jump at it. I spend all day working in my home office, so I never hear when someone rings my doorbell. Which becomes a problem when my job also sends me lots of packages I need to sign for. ๐
lol yeah, same. I have automations setup for when motion is triggered and/or the doorbell is pressed. Camera quality is pretty good too.
Did you ever solve this? I'm also looking for any solution that works with a 2-wire intercom (STR-HT40). Seems like all the commercial solutions like Nuki and Ring Opener don't work with it.
Bro my intercom also has the ability to open the bottom door on either side of the building but itโs gross and yellowed and old, buzzer is so loud and off putting
My dad has wiz bulbs and likes them, only real issue with them is theyโre so freakin dim
The real trick is going to be figuring out where the doorbell transformer is...
They make ones with higher lumens, but generally the 800lm ones work fine for me. I rarely put them to 100%.
Overload it and listen for a pop?
My intercom has an LED that lights up when somebody rings the bell, I was thinking that should be detectable somehow
Either behind chime in wall or maybe breaker most likely
Then I could potentially use a switchbot to press the unlock button manually
Yeah I might go digging. It can't be too hard to find because the previous owners (who didn't build the house) installed a ring doorbell for one of the doorbells.
https://www.pricelesstoolkit.com/en/assembled-pcbs/37-espbell-max-intercom-doorbell-module-0741049314467.html
This is kinda what I'm looking for but it requires 4+n wires and my intercom seems to be 2-wire
Most transformers installed 1980 or newer can handle the amps needed for smart doorbell
They have a little boost converter that some come with iirc mine required it
Unfortunately not. It bothers me to this day
Anyone using energy monitors and noticing that the calculated watts don't seem to match up with the amp/voltage
I have some Zooz, Minostron, and Aeotc energy monitoring plugs, and clamp meters, and they all seem to to be off on the watts. If they report 10 amps, 120 volts, the watts will be like 1700 instead of 1200
How could you possibly live with the darkness
Anyone using temperature sensors to notify when the dryer finishes?
seems like energy monitor would be the easiest way to know when dryer is finished
220v 30amp circuit
clamps are the only real option there arent any smart plugs we have as options for dryer
yeah you'd need https://aeotec.com/products/aeotec-home-energy-meter/
im not a fan of putting energy metering on zigbee but especially not zwave meshes
the aeotec is pretty nice, you can configure automatic reporting groups and their interval
so you could set it to repor tjust the current, every minute, or every 5 minutes
keep the chatter down
Why?
Canโt do that. No way to clamp the wire
low bandwidth meshes dont do well when you start throwing a bunch of traffic on them
Oof
but aeotec has a lot of advanced parameters like he said above to tweak reporting intervals etc
you do it in your panel
https://github.com/zwave-js/node-zwave-js/issues/5471 if you want to read
he's in an apartment larping about stuff he prob shouldnt do til he moves into a house
No can do.
no access?
Thatโs why I was asking for recommendations dingdong.
might be able to buy a split plug then
like that but, for 30amp
I can't find any though, so might hav eto make one
home depot will sell male and female ends like that
so you can make a 1 foot cable, get you some 10gauge thhn wire or something, then you can clamp
Sounds sketch
not really
how would a temp sensor work?
where are you putting it? near the exhaust?
Putting it by the exhaust vent
is there a flip on the exhuast?
Yea
tilt sensor?
Wot
like a garage door opener sensor
What for
like if the vent is like that with a movable flap
you can put a tilt/vibration sensor on it
the wind would trigger that for me way too often to be reliable
maybe the vibration aspect of it but not the tilt
i like the idea i just dont think it's a good solution tbh
well you can try a temp sensor then
borrow one from another room get some foil tape and tape it to the exhaust hose
see what happens
Yeah I definitely canโt get on the roof of my apartment complex for that
Melted pool of plastic speedrun
A window/door sensor with a magnet may be ?
glued on the bottom side of the flap... it's doable ... ๐
Hi all, which camera would you recommend that works best with Hassio with no need to connect via internet, everything offline
Thanks in advance
I donโt have access to the flap my dude itโs on the roof of my apartment complex
jump to #cameras-archived the guys who hang out there have the best suggestions
Heyo, newbie here. Can anyone point me to any resources on choosing a machine to host homeassistant on? I was considering a pi 5 with m.2 hat for storage but saw on the reddit that that isn't a great choice. Someone in #general-archived pointed me to this channel. I'm UK based if that effects choices at all
used mini pc market is crap in uk / eu so best to just spend a little more and get new gen mini pc like n100
in usa amazon prime has them around $160 right now https://www.amazon.com/Beelink-Pro-Desktop-Computer-1000Mbps/dp/B0C89TQ1YF find the uk equiv
will it just be used for home assistant or other stuff too>?
You could probably add your own on your side if you want. Like: https://www.amazon.com/neverest-Professional-Backdraft-Damper-Inline/dp/B011KJMCUU?th=1 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Inline-Vent-Draft-Blocker-BD04HD/205046954
Holy crap thatโs a good deal
ur a good deal
also it's actually the historical low going back a long time
it's usually $200 with a "coupon" box you check off that goes down to $160
so prime day isnt really special for it
home assistant, media server (I was thinking plex) and maybe a few small dockerised apps I've made to get/ store/ display various data
Wouldnโt the sensor have to go inside the pipe then
Could, or could be attached to the axle connection on the outside. I guess they're more like butterfly dampers that don't have a rotating shaft
im not a fan of plex on a mini pc cuz i like lots of hard drives but sure to start out with it will be fine. that mini pc linked can do multiple 4k transcodes with its built in igpu
I'm using an old HP G3 800 prodessk ( intel 7500T) upgraded to 32Gb of ram, and it works fine! I would stay away of PI solutions ( no virtualization, not expandable/upgradable, limited, expensive if you count power supply, power buttons, box, fan, enclosure, external enclosure for HDD.... at the end it makes noise, and you have a Frankenstein solution sometime unstable ...
yes but are you in the uk where they are like $150 used and a brand new better n100 based mini pc is $160?
i like and suggest older 6th gen intel or newer mini pcs (well not hp cuz fuck hp) but the lenovo m910q or similar
What would you suggest for plex? Could I just get a NAS and have the mini pc handle transcoding or would that not work? Sorry for the stupid questions!
Plex can run on anything. It's just streaming. the problem are the devices. If they cannot play natively all formats, then u need a decent CPU
Transcoding is the biggest issue, so long as it plays natively then as @minor heath says, it shouldn't matter too much. Even on a decent computer, transcoding can monopolize your CPU.
I'm using Jellyfin on LXC container in proxmox ( amd 5600G ) . I can transcode some video. Hopefully my Nvidia shield handle 10bits, so no huge color mapping..
i already mentioned above the n100 can do multiple 4k transcodes from igpu
thanks for the help all - I just ordered an n100!
hardware encoding is a "premium" feature in plex isn't it? requires a subscription?
jellyfin is the route I went. works great.
Yes, that is correct. But then again the Plex Pass is pretty cheap and worth it for all the additional features, hands down.
plex is alienating their users more and more every update
as a lifetime plex user for ~13 years it's a matter of time til they scare guys like us away
i havent given jellyfin a fair shake i tried it like 2 years ago and apparently the only real downside lately is less polished client apps
any know if Aqara Smart Lock U200 can get into home assistant without Aqara M2 hub?
none of us use or suggest a chinese hub
corrected xD without
if it supports #thread-archived or #matter-archived ask in those channels but otherwise if it doesnt support zigbee/zwave/wifi and you cant find support information on the integration page then...
How are they doing that? I have been with them since they were beta, I don't feel particularly alienated.
then you havent been paying attention lol
I don't see any reason to insult me personally, I asked an honest question
that's not an insult but i wont be elaborating either it's easy to research on reddit
There's always rabid people for any platform. As a long time Plex user I don't at all feel alienated
I do feel that some of the complaints I can understand, but it does what I want
I feel alienated as an Emby user. ๐
I feel the same, they've been good to me and I've had a lifetime pass since the day they announced them. But to each their own, despite some random Reddit comments
Is anyone aware of any way to get Home Assistant on a google os watch?
Just ordered a samsung watch ultra and would love to be able to lock/unlock my car from it
I can do that from my garmin ๐ Don't know about google os watch
well last week i realized a new feature was enabled by default and a tv show i have on my plex server was ignored and instead i was fed a continue watching episode from plex and fed ads
You can? well that's good news, what os is garmin?
and when googling that turned out to be a pretty common issue that people didnt love
multiply that by about 1000 and that's what's happened with plex over the past 5-10 years (the first few years were just pure growing pains)
#android-archived has WearOS support
thank you boss ๐
@rose musk os is garmin's it's own thing. They have widgets you can add through their "Connect IQ" app
Tomorrow, i should receive my 2nd Sonoff zigbee dongle. I'm wondering how to assign each of them to the right VM...mmmm
I think i will have fun ๐ ๐
I'll first put a sticker on both... then....
Random shit like this auto opt'ed in infuriates me
dont get rabid on me dog
accidentally hit enter instead of ' ๐
tuya isn't a manufacturer
That's fair. I don't know who manufactures them, but I've seen like 30 different companies selling bulbs that appear to just be rebranded tuya
That's what Tuya does. They license their name and platform to pretty much any manufacturer willing to pay.
Throw a dart, a lot of chinese companies make "Tuya", it's the platform that sucks for me
The platform, the lack of standardization, the lack of standards enforcement... D) all of the above.
I totally get that. Part of why when I'm buying parts I try to keep track of the link that I used so that I'm at least going back to the same seller if I do it again
It doesn't mean that they're not going to source from a different company, but it's just a matter of personal preference
"Tuya want it to work? If so get Zooz, Inovelli or pretty much anyone else..." ๐
For anything that controls high voltage, I prefer to stay with shelly if i can
Shelly for the win for me, I'm a huge fan (been talking Shelly in another channel for like an hour now lol)
Hawk tuya
You know, I ain't even mad bro
the meme to unite nations
Do i need zigbee to be able to change my Philips hue smart plug from light to switch?
just via the philips hue integration
Then check the hub and/or Hue #integrations-archived settings
My experience with Hue bulbs is any changes to the base settings of how it's identified you would do through the hue app
Just for what it's worth
yeah it's identified as a smart plug
I'm trying to create a automation that charges my tablet when it's at 20% and it's stops when at 80%
But I also have a Tapo and that seems to work at least i was able to make the integration
I couldn't set my philips hue smart plug as condition device
Well yeah, the Hue plug doesn't do power monitoring and where does power monitoring even come into play? You need to check the battery status on your tablet and then just switch the plug on or off. I'm so confused.
try to use entities to automate off of not devices
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/why-and-how-to-avoid-device-ids-in-automations-and-scripts/605517 the tldr is dont choose device always automate on the entities OF the device
Background When you start writing automations, a device trigger seems the obvious choice. Everybody knows what a device is and it comes at the top of the UI dropdown list. It worksโฆ but it is certainly not a โgreat way to startโ because it is storing up problems for the future. Far better to use an entity, with state or numeric_state. Devi...
So, wait. You didn't integrate the tablet into HA?
for this?
That's the wrong device. And don't use device. Use entity.
and it's harder to help posting pics in not english haha but kind of fun to see the silly words
Yeah well it's the language of the original maker of home assistant
Focus. ๐ Is that a condition?
yes
You just need an automation that when the tablet battery is above 80% and below 20%, toggle the plug?
''Energie Meter computer'' thats how the tapo was named ootb
yes i followed this guide from everything smart home
In this video we take a look how to build a Smart Home control panel or Wallpanel with Fully Kiosk and Home Assistant, or any other smart home platform. I'll take you through how to setup and install Fully Kiosk, and how to create 3 automations to help use your control panel more easily!
If you'd like to support me and future projects:
Tablet ...
Starts at 6:00
Yes we understand but he unfortunately did not show you the optimal way to do this
Damnit
Bot: gottem
Yup. Hate that... but whatever.
Cough code share site ๐
Is Home Assistant available for the Raspberry Pi Zero 2W?
lmao
No.
I wasn't even counting my lines... Bill failure
Pi3 or higher, or an actual computer
Pi Zero anything is a toy
@hollow pier https://dpaste.org/bHaAp
Replace the battery_level entity with the battery_level entity from your tablet (you can find it in Settings > Devices & Services > Integrations > Mobile App). Replace the switch entity with whatever smart plug you are using. Call it a day. ๐
Argh... I can't delete the bot message... Well, that's just gonna stay there then. lol
What bot message? ๐
@gloomy elbow TYVM ๐
And so this does also work with the smart plug?
The Hue?
Without converting from light to switch? I think you need to
Oh no no no. I dont need power monitoring, i just bought this to power monitor a pc
Show the device settings for that switch in the Hue integration.
Can i ask why this is not optimal?
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/why-and-how-to-avoid-device-ids-in-automations-and-scripts/605517 the tldr is dont choose device always automate on the entities OF the device
Background When you start writing automations, a device trigger seems the obvious choice. Everybody knows what a device is and it comes at the top of the UI dropdown list. It worksโฆ but it is certainly not a โgreat way to startโ because it is storing up problems for the future. Far better to use an entity, with state or numeric_state. Devi...
Has anyone gotten a Windows tablet to work as a wallpanel. i currently have one but with windows 11 you have to wake the device, swipe up, press sign in, then get to the dashboard. seems like a lot of steps
I am about to grab my first smart socket during prime day, I found sonoff S26 wifi or zigbee almost at the same price. Which you'd advise ?
I already have a zigbee controller so normally both are fine with me, but maybe zigbee would be best since they can be used to extend its range ?
There are tools like caffeine preventing Windows to go into screensaver mode.
But leaving the display on all the time and likely with the same dashboard shown might be bad.
Would you like a method to install the smart stuff inside the wall? Like a Shelly Plus 1 (just an example device, could change to a different shelly device depending on usecase) https://www.shelly.com/de/products/shop/shelly-plus-1-1
My personal opinion is that if you can do this that would be a much better approach because there is nothing standing out from the wall
Good point indeed, I will keep it for later though. I think it makes more sense for ones own house, not a rental :>
Okay that's totally understandable
Then somebody else can possibly help because I got no experience in this field :o
Thanks mate ๐
I'll just insert my question to this channel:
I got an usb switch which can receive a signal via aux to switch between the connected devices. I would like to integrate this into homeassistant and was wondering if I could use an aux-to-aux cable and connect it to my raspberry pi (which runs haos) and could somehow play a recorded sound so that my usb switch would get triggered? Just tag me and thanks in advance
and this is a bump
The zigbee plug from sonoff doesnโt have energy monitoring so if thatโs important donโt get it. I have the sonoff zigbee plugs and thirdreality zigbee plugs with PM
both work great
ah great z2m out here summoning demons
what are those numbers ? consumption ?
signal strength
Oh, I see
Does anyone happen to have resources about a zigbee power strip that would have power monitoring? I like the end and if I can't do a per outlet monitoring then I can just run a regular zigbee plug on top of the power strip to monitor full power strip usage. Looking for US either AliExpress or Amazon or something like that, not looking at a price range because I'm just trying to get information at the moment
The Nest thermostat works thru Matter!
It even provides the current temp. The only thing it doesn't provide is the humidity, but honestly I'll probably get separate humidity sensors anyways. I could just setup the cloud integration for Nest but I'd much rather have local control over it.
Whatโs a cheap way to create a LED status strip that can show notifications based on the lights?
I thought of making WLED but the cheapest would cost around $70 for 16ft; and not sure if Govee would work with HA but it is RGBIC so it means its in segments and not sure if HA can control each segment separately.
Anyone have any experience in this?
Would HA allow me to control each segment of this separately?
Itโs only $10 so itโs cheap enough for my project, but not sure if HA. Can control it.
https://a.co/d/8iPrVTX
Just purchased a fire tablet 10 (2023) while reading XDA forums it states that the new models/fw is restricted and can't use Fire toolbox to tweak the device. Can anyone suggest and inexpensive android tablet that will run smoothly?
Thinking of the best way to automatically turn on lights as I walk around my areas... presence sensor or motion sensor? what can presence sensors do that motion cant?
Motion sensors (PIR) detect motion only. mmWave presence sensors do motion, but they also can detect when thereโs no motion as well. So, a motion sensor can tell when you walk in a room, but if you stop moving, they stop detecting you. Presence sensors will detect you even if you arenโt moving.
how do they tell the difference between a chair and a you
Minute movements. Breathing, heart beat, etc.
PIR requires large movement. mmWave doesnโt.
Yup. I have both, but Iโve largely moved over to presence.
Description We are excited to introduce the Apollo MSR-2 sensor, a updated version of our popular MSR-1, developed with your feedback. The MSR-2 builds on the foundation of the MSR-1, incorporating several incremental upgrades to enhance performance and usability. Whatโs New? โข Compact Design: The MSR-2 comes in a smal
The EP1 is comparable-ish. Iโve never used it, so donโt really have an opinion on it. The Aqara FP2 Is worse and way more expensive. The MSR-2 is the most configurable of the 3.
Yes, yes we do.
Doesnโt there need to be like.. a radar dome thingy for the waves to come out?
Looks flat
This is one that I have behind my couch. Iโm not moving (aside from typing), but it knows Iโm here.
Nope. Itโs a tiny chip with two radar sensors on it.
The other neat thing about mmWave is that it can go through objects. PIR canโt and thatโs why they have the small domes.
Thatโs creepy as hell LMAO
Can it go through objects??
Oh
I asked before seeing that
๐
Hahaha no worries. Yeah. It allows for some neat things. I have another one mounted behind my headboard that detects when Iโm sleeping as well.
Are there like different โzonesโ..? If I had one in my living/dining area, would it be able to tell if Iโm in the living room vs dining room vs kitchen
You would need the MTR-1 for that. It does up to three zones.
Is the MTR-2 single zone then
I think so? Yeah.
So itโs detecting you but you arenโt in any zones?
Is the MTR-1 also mmWave? I ask cause the MSR-1 specifies
MSR-2*
Nah, Iโm not in there. lol
Yup. They are both mmWave.
The major difference besides the zones is that you canโt really tune the energy gates on the MTR-1. The MSR-2 allows you to do precise tuning of energy gate thresholds.
Energy gates? ๐
Yeah, thereโs 9 energy gates (kinda like zones, in a way). Basically distance from the sensor. But, say you want to exclude the middle part of a room but still capture near the sensor but also far away. You can tune it to basically ignore energy in the middle gates.
This one is under my office desk. I only want it to detect me when Iโm sitting at the desk, so the top gates are set to 100% for the thresholds. That way, it only detects a small area.
So if I were to put one in that outlet on the other side of the room would it detect me in the kitchen rn?
Most likely, yeah. It has a max distance of 6m.
But mine has detected me 20 feet away before.
sheeesh
msr-2 does zones as well but it's zones like short medium far, mtr-1 does zones like couch or by stairs or by tv
https://i.imgur.com/iQdJ8Tn.png I dont need the back USBC port if I get the outlet mount addon right?
right but you might want to get the gpio addon
https://i.imgur.com/whBd4ym.png do you have any of these issues..?
what for...?
if you tinker for $5 you can add breakout gpio pins for w/e (external temp/humidity sensor, led strip, idk)
now im damn near the price of the aqara lol
tbh i have heard this by a couple people but i personally and lots of others have tuned the msr-1/msr-2 without issues
err derp that's saying dont use mtr-1
yea i've heard that but maybe like 1/50 customers not something regular
drooling rn at the thought of never having to turn off a switch again lmao
are these wifi or zigbee
nvm
It does get hot. Iโve also seen where it gets wonky with detection. The review is accurate, but itโs also choosing the sensor that best fits the situation. The MTR-1 in my kitchen does well because Iโm standing in there. For places where I need better โstillโ detection, the MSR-2 is king.
the sensors this thing has are INSANE
For creating zones do you just walk to where you want a corner basically?
Yup. Thereโs an app called HLKRadarTool that makes it easy to do zones.
Yup. Iโm telling you, once I went presence sensors, Iโve been HOOKED.
some guys intentionally are placing them behind walls etc to hide them
could make it so if theres no presence in the living room for 5 mins, turn off the lights.. UNLESS the roku is playing a movie
ye
im in your walls
i dont think the roku integration has play/pause detection
also a good use case is in bathroom if there is an outlet facing the shower since they can see through shower curtain(msr-2 use case)
sadly..
You were saying?
thats apple tv, not roku
Oh. Yeah. Sorry. Didnโt see the Roku comment.
But, my point was, you can do some crazy shit. lol
LOVE my ATVs.
Same. So so much more responsive than anything else Iโve used
my tv IS a Roku TV tho, TCL & roku collab
it does
No HDMI in 2024? lmao
NICE!
consider me...indoctrinated..
You wonโt be disappointed. Plus, we know all of them at Apollo. Really good guys and their support guy is kinda cool. ๐คฃ
I just picked up 2 msr2โs and an mtr, having a great time so far
Well, duh!!! lol but not really. If I donโt like their products, I wouldnโt recommend them. Iโm very much a โif I believe in the productโฆโ kind of guy.
based
beelink eq13 in hand, downloading latest debian install now after saving the windows registry codes (not sure why I'd ever want windows, but I'm surely not paying for it if I have a license)
so can these presence sensors tell the difference between a cat and a human?
In my experience (with a dog) no
ugh
Oh, so I got over to my sister's house today and looked back in that switch box I was talking about last night. There is no neutral in there at all, because the switches they installed don't have a neutral post. They do have a mile of wire in there which is nice to work with, but then you can also see where after they ran the wire but before they put the switches in they were a little liberal with the spray paint
cat would love that, total control
I think inovelli and Lutron have no neutral switches available.
Also the paint thing is wildly common too.
..?
70 bucks, no way
I mean, maybe if you get a super dense led strip
not sure if the eq13 is just snappy because there's nothing installed on it, but it's pretty darn snappy
Depending on the kind of strip that it is, I have seen on AliExpress controllers for different types of LED strips that can set up for controlling RGBW via zigbee. It's something I want to explore when I have more energy and time, but I have been thinking about the exact same thing you're suggesting.
As far as it being undressable RBG, I would honestly be surprised if it's okay is that nuanced, but even if it is you may run into problems with the govy light strip not having the addressable LED
I'm kind of wondering if an adafruit neo pixel would be able to get into some of those shenanigans. The idea that I had was just doing pulsing of different light colors to give a quick indication of what kind of system was throwing an error that I could then go and look at my HA dashboard or debug logs
Looks like neutral in there to me
I thought so originally, but I could only find three bundles of wire. I really don't know why there is all those wires put together in the same spot, but then again I've got someone close to me telling me that this whole thing doesn't look like it was wired to normal electrical code. He's thinking that the state that I live in is just that behind the times or something
I'm in the middle of trying to pick his brain to figure out what I'm missing
How old is the house?
The one I posted pictures of? It was constructed in the middle of the pandemic as a brand new building
So yeah, not that old
Should absolutely have a neutral bundleโฆ
there are different ways to wire switches
Are these not neutrals
for that switch, all the wires probably meet in the junction box for the fixture, the run to the switch box is just a pair of wires that switches hot
When I tried to trace the wires I think that one connected as the load. At the least, the switch only has three wires
I want wifi not zigbee, but it costs so much. I was going to buy 16 feet with WLED controller and the power adapter; but it totals around $70 which is way too much for something like that.
I totally get it. I did a quick look on AliExpress and the device that I was talking about is made in a Wi-Fi version. I totally get why people would recommend against using this particular item, but it might be a jumping off point for finding one you would actually like https://a.aliexpress.com/_mt8S8bS
From my understanding the way these things are designed is you buy the one that matches the wiring profile of your LED strip, replace the stock controller with it and then it would communicate in your case over Wi-Fi once it's been set up in a helper app. From there, you integrate into HA and then let it control from there
Well the one I was going to get was this
https://a.co/d/8mI2RR6
Or this
https://a.co/d/7BIhERo
They are both WLED which means it will be compatible with HA and can do individually addressable controls; however as I said it becomes too expensive at $70 with lights and power adapter.
Now if I can get an equivalent from aliexpress, maybe that would be cheap enough. Was linda hoping prime day would be cheap for those but doesnโt seam to be.
WLED LED Light Strip Controller, Ericsity Addressable LED Controller RGB RGBW WS2812B SK6812 WS2811 TM1814 WS2813 WS2815 5-24V WiFi APP Control Over 100 Dynamic Lighting Modes DIY 800 IC ESP32
I can't speak to the brands, but how much would the power adapter be? If it's $10 for the lights and $25-30 for the controller, depending on how much power you actually need to drive the system, it shouldn't be that expensive
my experience so far have been the short strips that can drive off a usb port and have the cheap 16 color remote controls, so I've never run the math for what larger strips would need power-wise
This
https://a.co/d/g4M0gwh
And this
https://a.co/d/5357uzZ
Is what I found for them; depending on if it is 12v or 5v
BTF-LIGHTING AC100-240V to DC5V10A Max50W Suit 9A 8A 7A 6A 5A 4A 3A 2A 1A Device Transformer Power Adapter Converter with 5.5x2.5mm DC Output Jack for WS2812B WS2811 WS2813 SK6812 etc LED Strip/String
@limber elm I just found this video that says the controller is only $5; so not sure anymore. Iโm confused at this point. ๐
https://youtu.be/dWds2HuoSoM
This $5 dollar board solves LED Lighting. Head to https://squarespace.com/zacbuilds to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code zacbuilds
Find out more about WLED here: https://kno.wled.ge/
Join me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/zacbuilds
Patrons get ad-free early access to all of my videos + More
Links to all ...
any recommendations of a human scale that works with HA?
at a quick skim of the vid description and what I know, it looks like they were talking about the ESP board being $5 (that listing is now $8) and that it would be something of a #diy-archived
there's an esp based OS that makes dumb things smart, and I'm going to presume it's a case of just making the ohter thing you were looking at yourself instead of a mass produced item
but unfortunately I'm getting very tired, and processing specifics will have to wait a bit
ESP32 + WLED + 5m WS2812B 60 LEDs/m = less than $30.
I think its $5 on aliexpress; but couldnโt figure out the LED lights I should get or good power supply
Opps. Plus a power supply for another $10 (5V 5A).
I would get a ready build system if it is cheap enough rather than $70. ๐คฆโโ๏ธ
But if I canโt then I guess DIY. ๐คทโโ๏ธ
Well $40 is a lot cheaper than $70 but are you capable of building it?
โ$30 is good; but is it the type I need?
And where do I find them?
In the video he used a 5v 20a power supply
If I have clear instructions I guess I can build it. ๐คทโโ๏ธ
I have soldered before but not sure if I will over heat it and burn it. I have wires with connectors that might help.
Not sure how you found them so cheap; would you know which one is 5v or 12v..? And I donโt get the WS28** stuff. I think some have no break fail safe but thatโs all I know.
Is the WS2814 5v and good? Is that what I need..? ๐คทโโ๏ธ
Also, whatโs the difference between RGB and RGBW; is it better white color with RGBW then if it is RGB?
Anybody managed to reprogram the ikea zigbee devices? (i have the filter) i really hate that i need to buy its own bridge just for it to use the same protocol
Dude. Come on. I gave you pictures that actually show you what you should select, and these are addressable LEDs not RGB. You should forget DIY and buy something off the shelf. There is no way you are going to be capable of DIYing this.
First of all, how did you determine that I need 5a not 20a; and why did you chose 220v input?
Also there are RGB addressable LEDs as well, so not sure why you would even assume that we need to have one or the otherโฆ
My questions were to clarify stuff; but I can do DIY if instructions are clear enough.
I presume he chose 220v since thats what most of the world uses
You can select 110v if thats what your local region supports
Yes, I know that; I just pointed it out because he said I should choose everything he selected in the image. However I would rather know why so I learn and know why I do the things I do rather them blindly following.
This is a learning process not just follow the leader. ๐คทโโ๏ธ
You select the relevant voltage, the rest choose as tom suggested. Just like Tom's screenshots show A$. You don't buy in Australian Dollars do you
Though if something goes wrong it is on you. You need to be sure of what you are doing
Read all the information section here: https://quinled.info/addressable-digital-leds/
Whatโs different between WS2814 and WS2815?
And how do we find out if we should use 5v or 12v for our project?
And is white better with RGBW vs RGB?
Iโll look into it now; but is there a direct answer for the questions I asked?
RGB has no white LED, RGBW has white led
So yes RGBW has better white because a white led exists
And RGBW uses less power to display pure white
But RGB is also able to give white; so how do we determine the quality of white?
What do you think produces better white, RGB mixed together, or white
My bets are on white
Not sure as I donโt know the science behind it, maybe the white LED does the mixing within it. ๐คทโโ๏ธ
You can say your nickname without r - it will be recognizable, but still not the same quality as if it is spoken with that r. It is similar with white quality - RGB or RGBW (RGBWW)
If I asked you to paint a white wall, either from mixing red, green, and blue, or giving you a tin of pure white paint
What would produce a better white on the wall
So the difference is that great? ๐ค
Does it also give more light as a result?
Also; wonโt it change everything in my setup as it would require more wires for the white?
Paint works different; it will produce black. ๐
You're looking at addressable LED strips
They have 3-4 wires, +, -, and data are the most common 3
You're looking at extra wires if you go for a plain RGBWW strip (which needs a wire for each colour)
So that RGBWW is warm white and cold white?
Yes, but I don't know if those exist as individually addressable strips What Tinkerer says later.
Iโm thinking if I want to keep it cheap I probably have to stick to RGB without the white; as it makes things more complex and the $5 controller might not work with more complex things such as RGBW or RGBWW, right?
Why not just get something that can do everything and is simple, when the cost difference isn't overly huge
Well, as I said Iโm trying to make it cheap so from the video above he uses $5 chip. And it is only a status strip not a main light source.
Iโm worried that adding more colors like white adds more wires and more complexity causing more things to not go right.
It would probably mean the power supply would cost more, and it might use more power to light up all of that, and plus more advanced controllers to handle the extra wireโฆ
Oh. I was used to philips hue having a closed protocol and for some reason i thought the same was going ok with ikea and the tradfri hub
Hue isn't closed? You can connect it to a zigbee coordinator too
Almost all Zigbee stuff works with any #zigbee-archived stack (in HA)
I have Hue, Ikea, Gledopto, Innr, Xiaomi, and more in mine
But you need the hue bridge right?
No
Not needing propritary hubs is one of the great things from zigbee
Is there any way to detect which person is in the room with a presence sensor? Or is the only way to do that to check the WiFi connection of their phone?
You can with BT proxies and something like the Bermuda integration or espresence.
Interesting, I'll look that up, thank you!
I'm trying to automatically press the buzzer of my intercom when I'm not in the apartment, but close to it. So I could use bt proxies to check that I'm not in the apartment and my iCloud location to know I'm at least close to it. Or is there something better than iCloud location for iPhone users? I can't do WiFi connection detection here because I already got a Wifi signal when in front of the building's door.
If youโre feeling frisky you can do person detection with cameras and extra levels of fun with compreface/doubletake to identify a specific person but cams inside arenโt ideal
BT would be best as the iCloud location detection can be slow to update in HA. You could also do something like a zone check that you'd have to be very precise with (like within a meter) and the HA companion app. The proximity integration might work as well. But, again, that relies on having your home zone very precise.
I think I'll just try proximity first. My idea is, that everytime the bell is ringing, there is a check if I'm close to the apartment but not IN the apartment, it will automatically open the building door. If I'm in the apartment or further away, then just notify me somebody rang the bell
Yeah, that sounds doable. You'll need to be pretty precise with your zone size, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
Nice, thanks for the help!
Hey guys I'm trying to figure out which led controller to get for my project. In short, I'm looking to run about 1.5m of cob strip and trigger it with a wireless zigbee reed switch. Ideally with a subtle fade in/out. Will any 12v ZigBee led controller work? Should I prioritise a WLED controller or is that only really necessary for more complex animations?
Ty ๐
Gledopto do some great controllers
I've got a couple of https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/GL-C-008P.html and have been really happy with them
Ty! Would this one do the trick for this job?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKPk5q4
Is there a z wave dongle? Or do these zigbee dongles also work with z wave?
#zwave-archived can help with that, if you tell them your country
Internal pic of beelink eq13
M2 slot for wifi, also extra 1x slot for additional ssr / nvme
anyone have questions while I have it open?
that m.2 e key used for wifi/bt should be swappable with another m.2 e key option like a coral or a 2.5GbE NIC
yeah, there's actually room for 2 coral adapters, one a+e and one B+m, I think
I guess the question is, do I want to run 2 nvme cards or just one, because if I run just one nvme, it's probably better to get the b+m coral for the better cooling, there's a quite large heatsink over the two m key slots
Running the a+e under the first nvme might have some heating effects
As if the Wi-Fi and bt chip arenโt putting off a lot of heat tho..
I assumed they weren't, but I could be wrong
At any rate I pulled it out, don't need wifi or bt in this box
Recommendations for an outdoor ha-controlled power on/off outlet? Not a dimmer. LED light gets weird if going through a dimmer
Hey guys, I've found a decide I think I want to try to use. It says "Tuya" on it, but is it true that this doesn't necessarily mean that it's flashable to Tasmota? Apparently they've switched to some other microcontroller?
Depends on how much current you try to switch on it
(and kinda also on the load)
Theoretically you can use any ZigBee relay or in wall socket with zigbee
But they may or may not enjoy being switched under load
Just 2-4 amps. Going to have wifi/ethernet connectivity only. ZigBee requires its own wireless hub nearby, I think. This will be far outdoors
There's a new branch for non esp mcus, but there could be others also
Well, I guess it's only $15, I can buy one and experiment.
Though, eventually, I'll need another half dozen if they work.
I've got a stupid idea in my head that I'd put a Shelly Dimmer in my ceiling fan, but only hook it to the light.
Then, that Tuya module for the fan, claims to do variable speed.
Hell, if there's a switch in the dimmer, I was even going to try to hook that up to the reverse switch inside the ceiling fan.
does anybody know of a USB powered temp/humidity sensor?
ooh, i discovered 'USB Battery Eliminator'. so i can use this as a workaround too
Yeah there are a few zigbee ones on Ali. Not more than a few though
Really not a fan of coin cells which seems to be common for zigbee
yeah, me too... will go for a 2xAA type sensor, i think
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806209673929.html
Here it is, I'm back at my computer, found the link.
Power supply:Micro USB 5V/1A
Battery type:1*AA(NOT INCLUDE)
usb or battery AA
I haven't tried it, so not a vouch, but it's in my cart for my next order.
Now if I could only find one with an external antenna so I could stick it in a fridge
inkbird bluetooth ones work well
or remote probe I suppose
in fridge/freezer
hi folks, i have some newbie questions, i'm looking to buy a handfull of HA items, and have the option of WIFI or zigbee flavors - (AC smart plugs, USB smart plugs, temp/humidity sensors)
- are there any advantages to getting zigbee versions? - lower power use? better tooling?
- are there problems communicating between WIFI and zigbee HA devices?
reading this now... https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/kmok40/zwave_zigbee_ha/
basically you pick your poison but ultimately certain devices are best and you buy them and use w/e protocol they are
i.e. if you want good light bulbs you buy hue zigbee bulbs, if you want good smoke/co detectors you get first alert zwave etc etc
this is 4 years old and has like 4 comments idk if i'd take it as gospel
wifi and zigbee both live on the 2.4ghz band https://www.metageek.com/training/resources/zigbee-wifi-coexistence/
ZigBee transmits on the same part of the 2.4 GHz spectrum as Wi-Fi, and when both protocols are transmitting at the same time, it causes interference that can damage the quality of the Zigbee signal. In this lesson, weโll cover how to design a network for Wi-Fi and Zigbee to peacefully coexist.
its possible to use a combination of zwave, zigbee and WIFI devices in an HA system?
yepperz
it's encouraged
๐
there's new protocols like thread and matter but myself and a lot of others have chosen to wait for them to mature and stick to lots of other good hardware choices without what i'd consider being a beta tester
thats great, i was a little anxious about choosing the wrong device flavour, and being commited to it
nah you're pretty free to buy whatever but i strongly suggest asking here to figure out what to buy not buying what "technically is supported by the protocol"
like you can buy bad zigbee or zwave devices that actively make your mesh worse just by being on them
'There are two protocol versions: WiFi Version and Zigbee Version.'
what protocol would the WIFI version use? ^^
'Zigbee Version requires Tuya Zigbee Hub to work together, Other Zigbee Hubs and Zigbee2MQTT are not supported.'
^ that seems like a big fail :/
if you see tuya dont buy it ๐
also what they say on the box or on aliexpress doesnt mean it's true
gotcha, avoid tuya
like hue bulb says hue bridge only but they work great with zha or z2m
Zigbee you likely won't have to refresh, is not proprietary like many wifi implementations
i'm guessing this info is incorrect. seems bizarre that a device could be zigbee compat, but only work with certain zigbee hubs
does TUYA stuff work offline - or require an internet connection?
Some hubs don't forward zigbee messages from other manufacturers
wow, thats terrible
can anyone recommend some good cheap functional zigbee hubs?
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
I have the sonoff dongle, no issues
๐
this one? ... https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/ZBDongle-E.html
Integrate your SONOFF ZBDongle-E via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Yeah, bought off Ali around 20 bucks
That's in my main ha machine. Otherwise, if you need repeaters, they say to get sonoff plugin switches since they are always connected to power and can also forward
But I'm just regurgitating what I have read, I'm in the early stages of implementation myself
many thanks! sonof dongle will be fine for my basic project (at this stage)
Yeah I get reception clear across my house with it
For ESPresense, is it possible to use an ESP32 for a beacon and another ESP32 for the base station?
@cold moon FYI https://www.support.getzooz.com/kb/article/616-zen15-power-switch-advanced-settings/ documents params not in the manual and allegedly has an auto turn off. Will abusively test this evening.
I had one of those... I can confirm the auto-turn off does work.
Parameters are a common feature for zwave devices
No seconds option but 1 min granularity is fine for my use case
I've got 4 walloutlets (grouped together) that I'd like to control with zigbee.
Any advice for in-wall modules that don't need to have a physical switch connected?
It's going to be mounted inside a wall, still easy to get to.
I've posted this elsewhere too but hoping for some insight from any knowledgeable HA users. I have an Aqara FP2 presence sensor that was connected to HA via the HomeKit Device integration and working flawlessly. I removed an unused presence detection zone via the Aqara app, and a day or two later the device can't be detected in HA. Its on my network, ping-able from the HA host device, and can be seen in my G Home app. I've tried reloading the integration, resetting the HA YAML and then the host device (a RPi 4B 4Gb model), resetting the FP2, removing the FP2 from HA, G Home, and the Aqara app, but nothing has changed. Now it doesn't detect the FP2 at all in the HomeKit integration, so its no longer in HA, but can still ping and see on network. I didn't change any network settings so I have no idea what happened unless it was an auto-update. Any advice? Thanks in advance!
Did you also remove it from HK?
Tuning my MSR-2 with radar engineering mode... Zone 1 is 0 to 3m, Gate 4 is 2.25m to 3m. Gate 4 still threshold is 40%. Zone 1 still shows "Clear" when g4 still energy is 70%. What am I missing? Thanks!
I don't have any HomeKit controller/hub outside of HA, it didn't seem to need one. I don't own any Apple devices at all.
Yes, but you still need to setup the FP2 in Homekit. Did you remove it from there as well?
(Well, set it up initially at least.)
I'm not sure I understand, I didn't need to download an app besides the Aqara one for setup
Once it was on my network through there, it was detected in the HK integration
Ohhhhhh, ok. I see what you mean now. Gotcha. What does your Homekit Device integration screen look like?
hopefully this is what you meant
thank you by the way for responding
Yup! That's exactly what I meant and no problem! Happy to try to help.
So, for mine. I had to set it up/reset it like 3 times initially. Plus, I had one that had a faulty wifi chip as well. Given that you've had it setup before, I don't think it's a hardware problem so much. How many times have you tried setting it up?
really? so you went through the Aqara/manufacturer's setup multiple times before it showed in HA? I've only removed it from HA, Aqara, and Google Home once each and tried re-adding it once, except in HA I've clicked Add Entry/Add Device probably about 20 times. It doesn't detect any new devices. ๐
Yeah, I went through this guide A LOT: https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/04/home-assistant-setting-up-the-aqara-fp2-presence-sensor.html
Thankfully, he keeps it fairly updated with changes and such..
awesome, I'll give this a shot when I get home. I'd seen his article but didn't go through it since he was on iOS. Hopefully it's just being buggy. Thanks!
Yeah, you'll have to fudge some of the stuff to work with Android, but the basics should be the same. If it still doesn't work, Aqara has a REALLY good RMA program if you reach out to them. I got both of my sensors replaced after about 4 months of having them for various issues.
Hardware replacements are what I was worried about. Hopefully I don't have to go that route but its good to know if I do that they'll probably take care of me.
Yeah, I'll stand behind Aqara's support. They've been good over the past couple of years.
Hue bulbs are the top of the line. That's not a bad price for them.
what specifically makes them better. Just color temperature consistency?
and like responsiveness
I'm moving in a few weeks to my new place
so I'm thinking about what I'm gonna want
They are rock solid Zigbee routing devices. Their colors and brightness aren't the best, but def passable.
well the color and brightness are the whole thing imo
what has better color and brightness
So, top of the line (at least from what I know) are LIFX bulbs. Best color and brightness, but often flaky (and not Zigbee).
For Zigbee, Hue... then Ikea... and then Innr bulbs.
are they cloud bound?
Iโm looking to add a keypad to control the electric strike for my gate and was recommended the INOX Smart Controller from local lock store, which seems to have all the capabilities I need. The device is BLE and the I think the gateway bridges to WiFi (for remote app access) and possible zigbee.
However I was wondering if Iโd be able to connect to Home Assistant, but canโt find much about them online
I wouldn't really want cloud dependent bulbs
LIFX are local.
local with the integration.
w
the transitions work great, the color blending in effects is exceptional, they are really responsive. As long as your 2.4ghz wifi doesn't stink you should be happy with them.
if you are not in the us, I have heard that shelly make a zigbee module that is sold in the rest of the world
is there much of a delay?
who are you asking this to?

