#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 62 of 1
all my stuff i bought is tuya
my condolences
yeah true
i’ve got a bunch of power strips with open usbs in them anyways
may as well just chuck em in there
currently got temp/humidity sensors + water leak sensor + door sensors coming in the next couple weeks
Yup. I think if you’re already using Tuya kit, they can’t hurt. But, generally Tuya is just crap in terms of stability and standards.
and some esp8266 board to make the ductless ac units smart
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BPY5D1KC/?ie=UTF8&th=1 these are $10/ea in a set of 4
Third Reality Smart Plug is a simple solution to make the intelligence appliances smarter, like lights, fans, coffee makers and more. It is a standard ZigBee 3.0 that can directly connect to Echo Devices with ZigBee built-in, SmartThings, Home Assistant, Hubitat, Third Reality hubs. No 3rd party ...
they give you power monitoring and control for an outlet AND a zigbee repeater
i’m going to ikea today for other stuff so i’ll pick up their smart plug
just to have more redundancy
These are US only.
oh i’m US
i was originally thinking of getting esp32s for a temp sensor but for the price the tuya was prebuilt and $1 more lol
Ah, gotcha. Then, those TR plugs are really good.
I have 9 of them (with 3 sitting in a box).
yeah i’m just looking for wifi cause i have good signal all over my house
mesh routers really are amazing
This is my WiFi Reolink doorbell camera:
oh damn
that’s p good
Reolink WiFi cameras are the first dual-band WiFi security cameras in the world, with 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz band available and 2T2R MIMO antennas. You won't have to worry about signal loss or interference with this Super HD WiFi camera! The antennas can broadcast signals out to 164 ft. in open areas....
thinking of this for front / back
Yup. Those are good. Plus, the HA integration is solid too.
sick
But, ask around in #cameras-archived too
will do, thanks!
i love this community
idk how i didn’t look for this sooner google assistant is so bad compared to this
your house has...a house
is there a house inside that house
do you mean the little house shaped mailbox?
yes
it's like no mailbox that I've ever seen
it needs to be rebuilt. an ex of my sweetie's built it very poorly and it hasn't held up well
but she saw one in Little Women (1994) and wanted it
it's on my list for this coming winter, as long as I can get the basement workshop configured to let me use the laser when I can't have all of the windows open
it's a scale model of the actual house, so that part is cool, but it was built by an idiot who apparently had only ever done modeling for grade school dioramas
(sorry idiot, if you're lurking here. not your wheelhouse.)
Do you use these? I just got some
A lot of use them. Do you have questions about them? 😊
Just wanted to make sure these are the good ones to have
I think I am going to replace my TP-Link ones because I have too many wifi devices
Yup. They’re solid. Just make sure to update the firmware to the latest.
oh how do I do that?
When you pair them with ZHA or Z2M, they will check for firmware updates. It’s as easy as pressing a button.
I think you need to enable it in the ZHA config (not sure on z2m) - https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#ota-firmware-updates
Yeah, if OTA is enabled (which honestly it should be by default, but isn’t).
I use power over Ethernet wired cameras from them
Oh wait, is that about the plugs? Discord is jumping me to a camera link
I have 8 of those plug/outlet/whatever you want to call them
I'm not using ZHA I still have a smart things hub
Should still work. Not sure about firmware updates though.
I think it does, at least for some
Anyone here with an Ecowitt Wittboy weatherstation?
Im looking for something that continuously measures lux values to run some light automations. Suggestions are welcome
I have one too!! They are dope! Ieneded up with 4 camera NVR kit they are noiiiicceeeeeee
Does anyone have a zigbee switch by General Electric?
This is what im looking at. Because i have a 20 dollars gift card lol
I'm thinking of buying this from Lowe's. Any recommendations? https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-GE-Enbrighten-Add-On-Toggle-Switch-for-GE-Z-Wave-GE-Zigbee/1002792640
I have some of the zwave ones. They’ve been fine for me— most people here won’t recommend them.
Since I have integrated sonoff lan to my HA my sonoff plugs SA-003 keep disconnecting from wifi or switch off randomly. All the other basic switches that i use for lampshades work ok, no issues. Any idea what is happening pls?
Thanks. I'm gonna try to get it for zigbee to work.
for people with zigbee around there house, any sensors or devices that you’ve bought that you’d recommend?
have some lights + repeaters and door/water sensors rn but wondering if there’s something else i could be missing
If anyone is avalible, I am at a loss as to how to resolve this "update for firmware" I keep having show up in HA for a specific Z-wave in-wall receptacle. I click the update it looks like it's installing and then next day I go into HA and look it still shows a firmware update for the exact same z-wave receptacle.
lol that is SO OPEN ENDED!!! So, for me, I have door/contact sensors, motion sensors, mmWave (presence) sensors (which I'm phasing out), leak sensors, curtain motors, door locks/deadbolts, temp/humidity sensors, air quality sensors, buttons, remotes, bulbs, switches....
yeah it’s meant to be open ended, just wondering if people have anything they find particularly useful
curtain motors is one i didn’t think of!
actually i probably should connect my level lock to home assistant
need to look into that
I love my cutain motors, tbh. Opens in the morning, closes if the temp goes above 85F (I have blackout curtains) and in pretty much every room.
Basically, my whole goal is to have the house as reactive as possible. I don't like pushing buttons or switches or using a dashboard if I can avoid it.
You'll probably get better help in the #zwave-archived channel, tbh.
Which curtain motors?
Aqara E1 Rod Edition
Hey, I am looking for something that could boost or extend my wi-fi signal but i can't plug an Ethernet wire to it, is there anything like that like a device that would connect to my existing wi-fi connection and extend it only with power?
There are those dreaded devices called WiFi repeater or WiFi bosster.
Apollo Air-1, Air Gradient, AirThings any feedback on how they compare to each other?
id avoid airthings but for the other two it mainly seems to come down to which sensors they used and wether or not the price is right
My vote is for Apollo, but I don't have the AIR-1. But I do have their other sensors.
I hope this is the right place to ask this...I have an Inovelli switch that has no neutral wire, and when I installed it, the light was flickering while the switch was off. I was told I need to get a bypass.
It got here today, but I don't see instructions on how to install it. The included instructions are about a "nano dimmer". And I don't see instructions on Inovelli's website.
I'm probably missing something simple, but can anyone point me in the right direction?
They just have presence sensors in this one right?
The instructions for the dimmer mention connecting it to the live and neutral wires at the light fixture. Maybe it's that simple, but it has a whole diagram about the dimmer so I wasn't sure
Yup, the MSR-1, MSR-2 (mmWave presence sensors) and the MTR-1 (multi-target mmWave presence sensor). But, given how good those sensors are, I can't imagine the AIR-1 would be a bad choice. Also, they are SUPER responsive for issues and such.
What do you use them for? I was thinking about getting one if I ordered trhough them in case I need it for something.
Presence sensors? EVERYTHING. I have one in my office that tracks me even if I'm not moving. I have one behind my bed that tracks when I'm actually in bed or not. I have one in the bathroom that tracks when I'm in the shower or not. Another one in the living room, kitchen, etc.
Why, what do you do with that information? I assume automations? I have HA setup, but right now it only has a few HS300 hooked up doing nothing but seeing it works. I'd like to start building my HA setup once I finish building my new NAS
I probably should grab a couple of their presence sensors while I am at it then.
Motion based lighting, plus other things like only turning on ceiling fans and opening curtains if someone is in the room. My office computer and devices are only on if I'm actually sitting at my desk. The kitchen lights and fans are only on if I am in there. Stuff like that.
I wouldn't mind doing my kitchen lights, we generally keep them on 24/7 so we can see if we go down at night.
I'm trying to figure out what things I should automate, I really don't have the need to do lights everywhere as I usually keep them off
With presence sensors placed somewhere near a traffic area, you could only have them come on when you are approaching or in the kitchen. You can then have them turn off again when no one is detected for say 5 minutes or something. There's LOTS of things you can do.
Can't you do that with simple motion sensor switches?
Sure, but PIR motion sensors require continuous movement. mmWave presence sensors use radar and don't require continuous movement.
That I'm not sure about... Honestly, I'd ask that over in #energy-archived
is it worth getting msr-1 on discount or the msr2 much better option?
Honestly, the 1 is fine. When you get used to it, then spriing for the 2. They are pretty much the same with some subtle differences.
price wise they are the same (except for the temp 15% discount) and if I am ordering new, I might as well get the newer one no?
Not if you're just starting out. The 2 has an expansion slot (which I doubt you would use, but maybe) and some updated sensors for humidity and pressure. The 1 is really all you need and you can get them on discount.
Where can I get them on discount outside of the temporary memorial day 15% off
for 15% off, I'd just rather have the latest
There's very very little difference and even the "old" one is under a year old
I've got a MSR-1 I'm a wally
that's your air-1 😛
Ahh true. Ignore me 🙂
Hello there! New to the HA ecosystem, and looking for a bit of feedback on potentially replacing some of my existing smart devices. I'm US based, trying to keep things on a lower end of a budget or at the least look at swapping parts out as finances are available.
I'm running HA Container (Docker) with Hue as the main integration, but also HACS to get access to Meross and Cync integration.
One of the odd things that I have is a thing I can do because of Meross' cloud feature, and something I'd like to continue if possible. Most devices are in my home, but I have a few Meross switches and a temp/humidity sensor (more on that later) at my sister's house that I can manage from home (since HA is just doing API pushes or whatever to Meross). I'd like to maintain this feature, even if their devices are showing up on my home dashboard
The temp/humidity sensor is one of my issues. I have one at each house, made by Govee. I see that I have an integration for Govee, but it requires a bluetooth connection in HA, which means even if I put a dongle on the server, it'll only pick up the one at my house.
So ... Q1: Is there a good recommendation for a WiFi enabled temp/humidity sensor that could cloud sync into HA from a second home? I'm hoping to avoid the ESP -> BT dongle process suggested in the docs
Second question is about the Cync switch that I have. It's connection is a bit shoddy, and HA doesn't seem to poll it's current state very well. Everything I've read before suggests it's because GE isn't implementing Zigbee protocols properly, and until this morning I didn't even realize HACS had an integration
That brings me into Q2: What's a good recommendation for a no-neutral dimmer switch (older rental) that could connect through a Philips Hue/Samsung SmartThings/WiFi?
Eventually I still need to learn the Eufy integration, but it seems like it wants me to unpair my base station from Eufy's servers first
Govee vs Aqara for humidity sensor? I'm looking for one to put in my 3d printer, I ordered Apollo Air-1 for the environment, but need a more accurate puck size one for inside. my printer
If this was in response to me, it's an interesting idea, but it would also mean two hubs in two different locations, and I'm not too certain how well that would integrate
I was planning on something like this:
Right now I have one of those cheap rectangle dumb humidity sensors
Ironically at my sister's house we're looking at the other way around. Tropical plant grow tent, so we want higher humidity and temp, which eventually might be able to be controlled with smart switches. Might have to look at that dry box design for when I get my printers working again
oh ... that's specific for Bambu ... never mind. I have Prusa and Ender
Yes, it's for the AMS, I have 3 in there now, but the middle one has a simple humidity sensor
like this
I just glance at the front to see what it is at
Tropical Plant riiiiiiiiight 🙂
actually, seriously. And that's the problem. All the grow tent guides we're finding are for weed
and I think it would be easier than what we're dealing with
I swear, it's cheaper for us to just buy it than grow it
I am trying to use a wiring diagram I found online to control a motor to open and close my window. Unfortunately, Dr ZZs that wrote this it was five years ago and they have not replied to of my messages. So I'm guessing what to do with this problem.
The D1 mini does a good job controlling the motor turning it one way or the other. That's not a problem. The problem comes in with a reed switch that goes to ground when the window is closed and then shuts off the motor. The wiring diagram has it on GPIO2 - D4. From reading everything I can find it says that if this pin is grounded, it won't boot. Which is exactly the case. I also found an article that said put a 330 K ohm resistor from 3V3 to D4 but that doesn't help.
I have guessed and now tried to reconfigure the YAML to use D7 or D6 (GPIO12 or 13). That kind of works. If I bring it high (rather than to ground) by applying 3V the pin will toggle on and off in Home assistant, but when I turn it off it flashes like anywhere between 3 to 6 times off on off on off on. So I'm guessing it doesn't really want to do that.
So what do you do with a D1 mini? Am I using the wrong device for these days? Should I use a different device? I don't understand how the person that wrote this originally had it working great for them but for me, it doesn't work. Other than five years have gone by and devices change I assume.
So what is the end result? Should this work? Do I have a bad board or something? Should I try a different board? If so, which one?
What pins should I be able to use and go to ground to indicate an off on situation like the reed switch?
for the Apollo mmWave sensors, does anyone know how wide the detection area is? Is it < 160*?
Detection angle: 60 degrees (In practice this is actually very near 90 degrees)
Ok, so it basically requires corner placement to cover an entire room then
Ish? I don't have all of mine corner placed and they detect me at around 70 degrees. I have one on the wall and it starts detecting me as soon as I hit the threshold of the doorway.
Roger Roger

😂
How can i check or adjust ethernet duplex speed of the network card within my minipc running haos?
Why? Maybe this helps: https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/blob/dev/Documentation/network.md
Its stuck at 100mbps
Nearly every modern device will auto negotiate the duplex speed. If it’s not, chances are that your switch is set to 10/100 or your Ethernet port/adapter has an issue.
Don't forget to try different cables
I have checked those, and replaced the cable with a cat6 s/ftp
Did you try a different port on the switch? I’ve seen individual ports get stuck before.
Some also have an eco mode that lowers the speed based on various criteria
Ill have to try, does haOS have a ecomode?
This has nothing to do with haos
It's a protocol feature of the network interface
What are you running HAOS on?
An letsung intel minipc
Check your BIOS and see if the NIC is set to 10/100 or eco. If there’s even a setting for the latter. Otherwise, I’d see if there is a BIOS update available and/or reach out to their support.
Thankyou will do
Anyone know if its possible to reset the eeprom of an esp8266 manually (no computer)
Think I might have bricked one but the light still comes on and it shows up in device manager, just when I try to reset using any of the tools I've tried it doesn't detect a device on the COM port
If its any help the device also gets insanely hot when connected to my computer over usb
Probably dead, but ask in #diy-archived They might have some ideas.
damn
Just trying to follow up real quick if anyone has recommendations for wifi enabled temp/humidity sensors that cloud integrate with HAS? Also potential replacement no-neutral dimmer switch since Cync is ... finiky?
Just trying to follow up real quick if
Looking for suggestions for a non cloud thermo stat.
I love eco bee but I hate how HASS only operates via cloud.
I hate that I can only get motion on HK.
Been looking at honey well systems so I can use dampeners in my ducks for zoning purposes. But when I look on integrations I see that honey well has a cloud symbol just like ecobee.
Goal is to localize thermostat control.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
I am making a project on smart homes using home assistant, and have made a picture card model of my house with programmed switches to turn on lights. I was planning to buy smart bulbs for each light, but realised it would be too expensive to get so many. I want to test it out by buying just one bulb.
Do you guys have any bulb recommendations that can be bought individually and connect directly to HA without having to buy a bridge/ spend money on subscriptions. Thanks
See the bot message above your post
Hello guys, I want to buy a bulb for my smarthome. These are the main conditions:
-Connects to HomeAssistant easily
-Doesn't require a bridge to work, can connect to HomeAssistant directly
-Less than £15 (My country is UK)
-WiFi connectivity
Which bulbs do you guys use and which do you recommend? Thanks in advance.
https://www.mylocalbytes.com/ sell stuff that's flashed with Tasmota
Thank you
Came across this conversation in a search. I was considering trying out a Zigbee sensor or two, and naturally I started looking at Aliexpress. You're saying it's worth it to pay more for Aqara on Amazon?
They're saying don't buy Tuya
What about Sonoff, though?
Eh... the Sonoff Zigbee stuff can also be crap
Yeah... avoid Tuya if at all possible. Especially if you are starting out.
Don't buy: Tuya, Sonoff, Osram's Zigbee 1.2 stuff
Do buy: Hue, Innr, Gledopto, Tradfri, Xiaomi, 3Reality
Not starting out, per se. Been using HA for quite a while now, but mostly wifi and ZWave devices. This is my first foray into zigbee in planning for my new house
Do buy: Hue, Innr, Gledopto, Tradfri, Xiaomi, 3Reality
(And Aqara, which is really just rebranded Xiaomi, but still)...
(And yes, very familiar with Tuya, and I hate them 😂)
Well, Aqara is one of Xiaomi's ranges, like Mijia
What Zigbee stick would you guys recommend?
Yeah, but they never state that on the packaging 😉
There's actually one in stock right now.
(And you thought I didn't listen to you, Tinkerer 😛 )
cc2652p or bust
Hmm...that's a tad more expensive than I was hoping 😂
(plus I'm in Canada, so USD -> CAD is at least a 30% currency exchange penalty)
EFR32 MGM24 coordinators are the current way to go
They're proving to be able to handle meshes with hundreds of devices without any problems
Other good chips top out in the 100-150 range typically
you can try the smlight ones
Hey all! Looking for a solution to make the main overhead lights and fan work through automation/app control. Took the cover off this switch area on my wall, which I found is just essentially two individual double switches behind one large plate.
Any ideas for a single product that I could configure in place of this? I don't care about the aesthetic if it would look clunky in this spot without a perfect plate to cover it up.
I'm in a temporary house with very high ceilings for a few months so swapping in smart bulbs is a huge pain, if I can avoid it right now.
maybe look at the fan switches from inovelli for the fan/light control.
@hardy willow Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Plugwise Circle no-stick use?
Anyone have any cheap tablet recommendations?
Any reason something like this wouldn't work well just to control HA from?
https://www.amazon.com/Tablet-Android-11-4GB-RAM/dp/B08NDZYYVB/
That's not what I'd consider cheap for this use by any means
What does cheap mean for you then?
Preferably under 100, It's not going to be used for anything but HA
That's fair, I assumed it was obviously if I linked a US website 😛
Is it possible to wire a shelly in a way that doesn't require a double press on the manual switch to turn it back on if I turn it off on the shelly?
the firetablet is cheap but good
That behavior is controlled by the shelly firmware. It should be configurable to toggle the load on any toggle of the physical switch. No special wiring is required.
cheap tablets are very laggy
really? through their app or also available on Hass?
through their web interface at least. I don't know what options show up in hass.
oh, I only connected it to my wifi via their app. Didn't know it has a web interface. Thanks for the info 😄
When you say older tablet, do you mean an older fire tablet or non fire?
I was starting to have second doubts about this and was about to trade the 10+ shellys with individual smart wall switches 😄
an older premium tablet
I don't have good experiences with cheap tablets
and it depends on your expectations
my expectation is ... the fire max 11 is cheap but good 🙂
and i hate laggy stuff
Understandable, my main expectation is just that it runs >okay< in HA, I more than likely won't do anything else on it. Maybe, just maybe, a browser from time to time, but more than likely I'll use other devices for absolutely everything
so my expectation is just as cheap as possible for an okay experience, not horrible, not amazing
I'm excited and look forward to your experience... if you share it with us
From my experience, those super cheap tablets are not only pretty laggy, but also have a terrible touchscreen where you can't even hit a small button sometimes. The screen is often extremely bad too in terms of viewing angles, if they use a TN panel any slight angle will make the colors completely scrambled
There's a fire HD 10 refurbished for 80$, wonder if that's worth it
I'm working on replacing my current thermostat(a nonprogrammable honeywell) with a custom thermostat that uses an esp8266, dht22, and several relays to control my HVAC single stage heat and cool system. my thermostat currently has 4 wires
Yellow, Green, White, Red. R and Rc are connected via jumper in the thermostat. the thermostat is currently battery powered.
When I pull the thermostat off the wall and use a wire to connect red and white, I turn the furnace on, red and green turns the fan on. and red and yellow causes sparks. yellow to green does nothing, yellow to white turns the furnace on. I used a multimeter to check connectivity and resistance of the thermostat when set to turn the AC system on and it connects rc, yellow and green. I replicate that and sparks fly. Any ideas?
you might find some good used deals on your local classifieds portal
hey! total beginner here. I was looking at moving my plex server to a rackmounted nas I was going to build running unraid. what is best practice for running home assistant, is running it as a vm or container on unraid best practice should I look at installing it on a seperate device like a yellow or nuc/mini pc device
its mostly a "what fits your needs" kinda thing
virtualized as haos or as container within docker are both recommended
allocating a dedicated system for it can make sense for reliability reasons but thats not really a must have
got it. that makes sense. I just took delivery of a 37u rack and am adding a bunch of ubiquiti gear. I was thinking of adding a storage server running unraid that could handle everything from my plex server to vms, to home assistant
vm or container or bare metal doesnt matter just personal preference but i like haos and a dedicated machine separate from my server. that way if i lose server, smart home doesnt go down with it. same with network, cameras, hvac
I've got a couple of refurbished Fire HD 10s. Still working without issue (although, a little laggy sometimes because Amazon).
for sure ya that makes a lotta sense. is a yellow worth it (I like that it is poe powered) over a minipc if I go the dedicated machine route?
You're asking a bunch of HA enthusiasts that question... lol (but yeah, the Yellow is solid).
fair enough haha
BUT, I would still opt for a mini PC over the Yellow simply because you could load Proxmox (or docker) on a mini PC and use it for other things besides HA.
got it. ya I think I'll end up going for a minipc (theres a couple I found that have poe) to run ha, pihole, etc. and have my unraid server run plex and other vms if I need it
Sounds like a plan 🙂
I appreciate all of your help @slim lagoon @cold moon @glacial oracle
no dont buy a yellow buy a mini pc like a beelink n100 based one
Definitely gonna go that route. Thanks!
Or used office mini pc. Cheap and powerful
Or a used rack-mounted Dell R720... but that's not really "mini". 😉
funny you mention that I was actually just looking at picking up a R420 since theyre really inexpensive (and I have a 24" rack)
The R420s are nice, but I have a soft spot for the 7xx series.
wish I could pick up a 7xx series, from what I understand the r420 is the only one that will work with a shorter depth rack
Yeah, the 720 is a 2U unit. I think they are 30" deep (something like that)?
ya I think so, I just took delivery of this rack yesterday for a crazy good deal https://www.kendallhoward.com/product/37u-linier-server-cabinet-solid-vented-doors-24-depth/
hence why I was looking at the r420
Ohhh that's nice! Looks like you could snag a used (not refurb) r420 for like $70! https://www.ebay.com/itm/225453902955
Ya I picked it up for $250 local. Couldn't pass it up
Yes! Seemed like a no brainer at that price especially compared to a minipc
That's a fantastic price really... I'm getting to the point where I need to get a second rack soon... sigh
If you lived local the guy I got it from has another he wanted to sell
I would send it your way if it wasnt such a pain to ship haha
lmao... I appreciate it... but all my stuff (aside from my Unifi gear) is 30"+.
Gotcha haha
I'm just using this for unifi gear as well and a unraid storage server and this machine for ha
Another question for ya is this fine from a power efficiency/demand standpoint?
That’s why I ditched my servers for minipcs, too much power, which is expensive
And noise
Depends if those matter for you
Vs $100 mini pc (9500t with 16gb and a ssd)
But those are less expandable too
I see I see. My cabinet is in my garage so not worried about the noise. More concerned from a power efficiency/usage standpoint.
I think a s12 might be the way to go then
n100 mini pc ftw yo
the older used mini pcs on ebay are cool too but if you have the extra $ the n100 are nice
sweet. ya its not too bad for $168 rn
the 500gb 16gb ram model?
it goes down to like $150 at best
https://www.amazon.com/Beelink-Desktop-Computer-Support-Ethernet/dp/B0BVLS7ZHP this one -it is $160 every so often
yes its around 170 rn w/coupon
https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html you can install proxmox on it following this guide and virtualize HaOS. then you can debug issues easier and restore from backup to a new vm with less hastle than if you ran haos bare metal. it's a pretty popular option these days
Perfect. Thank you so much. This is so helpful
https://helper-scripts.com/ you can install adguard or pihole as a second instance which is nice in case your server needs to go down for maintenance
@acoustic ice dude the new website is impressive
Proxmox helper scripts is a collection of scripts to help you easily make changes to your Proxmox VE server along with installing many LXC Containers. This makes installing, configuring, and maintaining your Proxmox server in your HomeLab along with many applications as simple as running a script.
Proxmox Helper Scripts on Github: https://git...
Is n100 meaningfully faster or better than 7500t for cheaper?
Or even 6500t
Better usb and wifi and a little faster chip I guess
But they’re all overkill for a couple vms anyway 🙂
i believe the n100 outperform the older gen with igpu tasks by a large margin but i dont have numbers
Ok. I guess if you’re doing ai or video analysis or crypto that might matter 🙂
I’m cheap 🙂
but guys have said 9 frigate cams on the n100 igpu and there's still lots of juice left
plus the new gen are even more efficient for whatever that's worth lol
i helped a guy replace an 8th gen laptop with an n100 beelink like i linked above and he loves it
he has it connected to two 4k monitors running smooth
Nice. For a desktop 100%
i was really impresed
i told him yolo if you dont like it return it
a week later he was still loving it
plus it comes with win11 pre-installed so it's perfect for that use case
i have a 2015 imac i got for free that boots to an apple logo and i cant really diagnose further. i was hoping to reuse the screen but i searched online and didnt come up with any control board on ebay or any way to repurpose the screen 😦
damn you tim apple!
And it looks like the 2015 model is when they removed the feature that let you use it as just a display
Actually that might also depend on it being able to boot. Doubly useless
Can boot from usb?
Does it fail at Apple logo? Or just freeze. There’s a key you can hold to get boot menu and pick usb
Is there a good table lamp led to use as status indicator?
@patent river might be worth diagnosing a little further, I think mine is a ~2015 5K 27" one, which boots linux OK.
but apparently they're a pain to work on, so I haven't replaced the fusion ssd+hdd with a modern ssd
So broadly similar to a 7500t. With better tdp
A major difference between the two is that the N100 only supports single channel memory, which realistically might be a limiting factor on expansion. Whether that's something you care about is your call, though
Since the price of a 1x32/1x64GB kit of RAM is broadly equivalent to a 2x16GB/2x32GB kit, last I checked
A few other benefits of "bigger" machines: #general-archived message
Yeah, mine is "Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2015" which is iMac17,1
Can run latest OSX with legacy core patcher. I tried Mint on it - wifi didn't work ootb, and a couple of other things, but I kindof like having it as a mac, so didn't nuke the internal disk.
W
Whats the EMC? looks like it should be possible: https://ohmypizza.com/2023/04/converting-a-5k-imac-into-an-external-5k-display
does anyone have recommendations for turning a dumb amp+speakers setup smart? ideally so I can expose them in Spotify Connect and Google Home. I've heard of Music Assistant 2.0, so that might be helpful in some way, but I'm still unsure about hardware. thanks
That would entirely depend on the amp wether or not it can be remote controlled
Else getting it to be may be pricy
For similar prices would you guys get a fire hd 10 plus (2021) or a galaxy tab a8 10.5 (2022 3gb ram) (that being around 60-70$ usd)
Or the 4gb/64gb version for 90usd
Just to use a a smart home controller? I would think it's easier to get home assistant on the tab
The tab would probably be a little less laggy.
I may use it to video call on discord every so often, or possibly open some websites, but that would be basically the extent of it, and it might just go into fully kiosk or something instead lol
Well that's good, I've been reading that the fire hd sometimes exits kiosk mode on the newer updates and that they can be a pain to work with
Yeah, Amazon likes to mess up FireOS for no good reason other than because Amazon.
I mean, they make less direct money when you're using it as a kiosk mode than buying amazon stuff
nice i'll have to look
the galaxy tab is probably faster
i think the newest gen fire tablets have issues not 2021 version
I saw some complaints about kiosk mode on the 2021 versions too with the latest FireOS.
Yeah, and if I'm buying used it more than likely is updated already 😔
i have a 2021 version with fully kiosk setup but i dont really use it
so idk if it's having issues
the 2021 is able to be unfucked with the fire toolbox tho
it's the newer gen that the fire toolbox has limited success on iirc
Do share your progress, love to see old tech be repurposed, especially these quality displays!
ya i was disappointed i couldnt easily buy a board off ebay when searching
but i think i also need to buy a suction cup to even disassemble it
and i generally dont like working with such breakable things lol
question about esp32 + relay
Can someone help me?
I would like to run Home Assistant, but can't virtualize it, because Linux doesn't like creating a bridge in WiFi (no Ethernet available, studenthousing), so I can't virtualize HAOS. What would be the best way to install Home Assistant?
if you can't dedicate a machine to running HAOS, then a container install would be the next best.
and "a machine" can simply be a Raspberry Pi, if that's all you can manage
Likely problem there would be assuming multiple devices are allowed on the WiFi, there'll probably be client isolation and they won't be able to connect to each other.
You could use an Ethernet cable between the PC and Pi and set up routing on the PC, but that's adding perhaps inappropriately high quantity of jank.
Using a travel router as the WiFi client and plugging your devices into it is always an option in those situations, but those sort of establishment can also get pissy if you make your own WiFi network too, necessary to disable broadcasting and make sure it's only operating as a client.
For what it's worth, I like these: https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-axt1800/ (have the older AC model).
Supports wireless client mode as its WAN interfaces (and just NATs out it in the normal manner).
I don't know about that one in particular, but using a wifi->eth system would probably make stuff way more reliable.
Hey everyone, anyone have any suggestions on an IF/RF remote control that intergrates smoothly in to home assitant - I currently have a tuya one but it is only showing the device as unspported along with all my roller shutters connected to it
Is it worth getting an esp32-s3 over a regular esp32?
Hello, anyone here from Scotland that might know or have scottish law required fire alarms (wired and battery) interconnected that work with HA via Wifi/Z-ware? I've been researching for quite some time but can't find any good brands that comply and work with HA. There's First Alert that ticks all the boxes but they are Canada / US based and work with 120V for wired power.
Hi there, I have a question about VLAN. Where is better to post it?
Is it possible to add 2 extra hard drives to home assistant? I added a data drive, and now I'm using Frigate and would like to save those videos to another hard drive
could any of you running opendtu confirm that the relative limit is relative to the max output and not the current output power?
Hello, I am new to Home assistant. I have Kasa hub for Kasa thermostats, how can I integrate this into Home assistant?
My house water pressure is too high and I want to install a pressure regulator, figure I should also get a smart water meter while I am at it....any recommendations?
not sure about actually smart water meters (maybe something with p1? if that exists), but something that is compatible with a reader like the homewizard watermeter may be better
if it acts up or fails those are easy to change
Have a bit of an oddball question but does anybody have recommendations on inexpensive zigbee capable wall switch for US with no neutral required? Looking through the search I see aquara which is a little more expensive than I would be hoping to use. It doesn't need to be anything fancy because the use case is turning on and off a fluorescent light in my kitchen so there's no dimming functionality or anything, just looking for remote on off
Uncertain. Does that work on US outlets? The other issue that I could see is some of the other switches in my apartment don't have much clearance in the gang box and I'm not entirely certain how well I can fit a relay and a switch
I have a couple, haven't installed them, bought them from amazon USA
and if you scroll down, 120-240 50/60hz 6amp max
and to finish the searching - https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-ZBMINIL2-Zigbee-Smart-Switch/dp/B0B74H2P6G
Thank you, that's a lot better on the price. Now I just need to see if I have room in the outlet box to mount it
Looking to add a zigbee dongle .. either skyconnect or SONOFF's. I know that multiprotocol is not supported at this time. Couple questions ..
The skyconnect can be moved to thread and support devices on a threat network. I do not see anything that suggests that the SONOFF can be configured to support thread. Can it?
If you wanted thread (and matter over thread) AND support zigbee only devices .. could you use two of these? one on Thread one remaining on Zigbee?
sonoff-e and skyconnect use same chipset at the base. You can run multiple devices, with some caveats, I'll let someone else answer specifically on thread vs zigbee (but I'm pretty sure you can run zha on one and z2m on another for example). At the cost of the skyconnect or sonoff sticks, I wouldn't try to purchase for future proofing, just ease of use "now".
has anyone used switches like these before?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNnt0eS
Wondering if replacing the whole switch with a smart switch versus just popping one of those behind it would be better
Since one thing i’m not sure of is if the switch is flipped manually, will the light still turn on and register as on in the network? or if it’s flipped off and is already on does flipping the switch turn it off again or will it just swap state
garage door opener in aus?
wouldn't mind zigbee since I have a zigbee setup already
You wire these in such a way that the relay is always powered, controls the light circuit and the light switch only controls the relay. So the light switch is just switching the relay from has and doesn’t do anything to the lights directly anymore.
What’s a good Uk esphome smart plug? I’ve seen people recommend the athom one but also others say there no good. Just debating whether it’s cheaper to get an esphome or a ikea one for £10
What are you guys using to measure the water level from a cistern?
I use a VL53L1X for oil.
Looks like DIY? I am searching for something ready so install.
But thanks for that tip
is there any chance to have the Intel BE200 / BE202 iwlwifi and intel Bluetooth firmware added to HASSOS? it looks pretty well baked. I got the iwlwifi running for the BE200 by putting iwlwifi-gl-c0-fm-c0-83.ucode and iwlwifi-gl-c0-fm-c0.pnvm into /lib/firmware/updates -> /mnt/data/supervisor/firmware and rmmod iwlwifi and modprobe iwlwifi, but I am unable to rmmod bnep / bluetooth after I copied ibt-0291-0291.ddc and ibt-0291-0291.sfi into that same directory because rmmod said that bnep is in use by 2 things not listed by lsmod. I tried copying the iwlwifi and the intel bluetooth firmware into /lib/firmware and /lib/firmware/intel respectivly but the partition is mounted read only and I can't seem to remount it read/write
I am happy to work in whatever the appropriate channels and do create pull requests or whatever, I do not expect anyone to do this for me, cool! thanks!
i see, thanks!
also does anyone know if these still act as zigbee repeaters?
or if they’re just devices that connect to the network
They should (or could). Since they require a neutral, they should always be powered and thus router devices... BUT, until actually trying them, it's hard to know for certain.
Anyone have a recommendation for a PoE Android wall tablet ? I bought https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Embedded-Quad-core-8-inch-Android_1600525878492.html in September 2022, but now after about 8 hours the network is dying. Also looking for something a bit more powerful than a RK3566 and a bigger screen. The RK3566 is severely underpowered. Don't want anything with a battery in it / USB-C/microUSB on the side.
Embedded Quad Core 8 Inch Android 11 Rj45 Poe Easy Touch Tablet Pc - Buy Easy Touch Tablet Pc,8 Inch Tablet Pc,Tablet Pc Product on Alibaba.com
yeah cause i’ve seen mixed opinions in the reviews so no idea tbh
Generally, my rule of thumb is when it comes to anything that touches mains power, I go with name brands. There's just no knowing what these devices have in them and I really don't want to have to test my smoke detectors and fire department response time.
Shelly relays are really good and well supported. Aqara relays are also good as are the Sonoff ones.
I had an APC and Cyberpower go up in smoke, trying EATON now .. YMMV of course 🙂
Huh... my APCs and Cyberpowers have always been rock solid. But yeah, electricity sucks... Candlepower FTW 😉
ooh i’ll look into them
thank you!!!
i appreciate the warning about non name brand lol
Anytime 🙂
I lost confidence in APC after watching this:
Let's find out why this UPS power supply sounds like an arc welder. To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: https://www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
#restoration #electronics #repair
Enshitification is a real thing unfortunately. 😦
is buying sonoff/aqara off aliexpress ok? I notice that the price is like less than half of amazon lol
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/bump-the-official-linux-firmware-in-haos/735438 any votes appreciated 🙂
I bought an Intel BE200 WiFi card, plugged it into my amd64 HAOS box and noticed the firmware wasn't in there, it looks like the wireless ucode and Bluetooth drivers were added / patched, respectively, for this card back in March 2024. I would request that either HAOS sync with the latest ucode in general or with the following from the git repo...
Generally yeah. Amazon being Amazon when it comes to prices.
Hard to read your message in a code block @timid raptor.
yeah thats what i was thinking lol
I prefer Amazon just because of the return policy (and speed of shipping). But aside from that, as long as the seller on Ali is using official Aqara/Sonoff equipment (kind of a crap shoot from what I hear), it should be fine.
hmmm ok
ill just buy 2 since im buying a few first to do a test run then if its good ill reorder
its so much cheaper that even if one is busted it saves money anyways
True, just be careful is really the best advice I can give.
yeah def will, ty!
If it says it works as a zigbee end device, that means it works as an extender right
just wanna double check
Nope. The L2 is a non-neutral relay. So, it's an end device and not a routing device.
ohhh that’s what end device means
i see
so only relays that have neutral can work as a network extender?
Generally speaking, yeah. Typically, a routing device has constant power (either via being plugged in or by requiring a neutral wire for constant power). There are exceptions to this (like Sengled bulbs).
Sorry for all the questions, but do you know if this one would act as an extender?
https://www.aqara.com/en/dual-relay-module-t2
lol don't be sorry! That's why we're here. 🙂 And yes, the T2 is a routing device (and one of my favorites as well).
In that case the T1 should be as well (?)
Yup. IIRC, the T1 requires a neutral too.
damn aqara lowkey expensive lol
True, but imho, worth it. Of all the devices I've had over the years, my Aqara ones have been the most solid (aside from my Hue bulbs).
Well, and my 1st gen Sonoff relays.
yeah id buy sonoff if they were able to act as a network extender
Quite a few of my inline Sonoff relays (which are basically just ESP8266 boards) have been running since 2019. But, they're WiFi and not Zigbee.
cause currently i dont have many devices that are extenders, so i figure its better to invest in stuff that will improve my network before i get non wall connected devices
https://sonoff.tech/product/diy-smart-switches/zbmini/ is a routing device.
Just not the L2 (which is non-neutral)
No problem! 🙂
Is there a reason why they say to only use with non-metal junction boxes?
My house is only metal boces lol
actually it might not even fit in my box, any recs for zigbee switches instead?
Technically, for safety. All my gang boxes are metal as well and I haven't had the time to go through and replace them with the plastic gang boxes.
Where are you at? US? UK? Somewhere else?
USA
Ah, ok. My first choice is the Aqara neutral/non-neutral rockers. They are about $35/each. I was able to get them to fit into my small, metal gang boxes.
dy have a link? bit confused by all the ones on their website
is it this one? https://www.aqara.com/us/product/smart-wall-switch-with-neutral/
Yup. I have 3 of the non-neutral ones and 3 of the neutral ones. SUPER stable and can be set to decoupled mode and act like buttons.
ah ok
Do they support dimming as well?
I've got a light in the backyard I'd want a dimmer switch for
Nope. No dimming on those. I'm not sure Aqara has a dimmer for the US market to be honest.
I'm hoping they bring the Z1 Pro to the US soon though.
But, for a decent dimmer, Enbrighten (which is a division of GE) has a good dimmer. I think it's around $40 on Amazon?
Any good recommendations for a clamp on water flow sensor? My utility company does NOT offer an API and they use an ultrasonic meter (not compatible with Flume). I DO have an exposed section of 1” copper where the supply comes into the house. Ideally, I’d like to clamp something on this section and get some real-time flow info. I’m okay with DIY, ESP32 or any other embedded tech or whatever. Not necessarily looking for a finished product— but that would be nice…
ree ge bad zooz good
yeahhh it seems like a lot of aqara stuff is EU
which sucks there’s not much us stuff
Zooz has a Zigbee dimmer?
thought you meant the ge/jasco/embrighten zwave
man........... zooz have everything. I lowkey am sad I went with zigbee first haha
and I don't see that zooz have any zigbee @slim lagoon
Hey folks - I have a bunch of Unify Protect cameras (also a doorbell, but I haven't set it up yet). Got them connected via unify integration to HA. They show up on my dashboard. I also set up HomeKit Bridge in HA (via the add on)....other devices appear in HomeKit, but not the cameras.
Can someone help? Googled around and found ffmpeg and randomly tried adding that to my configuration.yaml but that didn't seem to do anything.
homekit secure video isnt supported in the homekit integration
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit/#accessory-mode you gotta setup cameras like this one at a time but again no hksv support so
No. Their Zigbee line. They actually aren’t bad devices (aside from being Jasco).
Thanks much. Good news - I created a new bridge and then got the QR codes for all of them in notifications. Sweet! I never (ever) would've figured that out otherwise. Is there some sort of .... downside doing it this way that I'll get hit with down the line? Is .... "native"/streamlined support coming?
Also - entirely separate question - anyone have a preference between zooz 800 z wave stick and homeseer 800 z wave stick?
not that i know of this is the only way via home assistant itself. if you want your cameras inside homekit you probably should look into scrypted instead of doing this
OK Thanks - I imagine doorbell will work similarly once I hook it up this way? Or will I immediately hit problems because it'll just be a vid feed?
zooz 800 usb stick is good. even better is the zooz 800 gpio for a raspi - but instead of using a raspi use https://tubeszb.com/product/z-wave-poe-kit/
it's possible to have two way audio with a smart doorbell if supported it just depends
got it thanks. The documentation defn not super clear; just try the same rough approach and see what works oob you reckon?
oh interesting - why is the gpio + poe kit better than stick?
i like and use frigate for object detection with home assistant but i have unifi cameras so i still use their NVR and mobile app / webapp for stuff like doorbell. i could technically do the same in frigate/home assistant with some more config
i'm told it has quite a bit further range
and the PoE aspect is nice to centrally locate it
Also connect to a VM without USB pass-through (allows moving the VM between hosts, if you have a cluster)
Yeah I'm fine with the protect app; just seems like geeky completeness to get doorbell integration into homekit so it shows on apple tv. got a link to any frigate object detection details? I'm all unify on my end.
ya de-couple from the hass host
because it's just a network IP you point all the HA instances at?
i have tube's zigbee coordinator not zwave
More that the VM no longer has to connect to a device physically attached to the host it's running on, so the VM can move anywhere and not lose connection to a USB stick
Also to @cold moon's other point, most people don't like their servers to be in their living space...
also the usb ports themselves cause interference so with a PoE coordinator they just straight up have no usb interference if you stay away from usb ports
got it. got any links to description of using one with z wave JS UI? I have a stick in there right now I've been testing with. Guess I could uninstall everything and reset up from scratch. What would "serial port" become? Or am I misunderstanding that bit
https://docs.frigate.video/configuration/camera_specific/#unifi-protect-cameras basically you kind of build your frigate config based on your cameras and stream settings chosen
This page makes use of presets of FFmpeg args. For more information on presets, see the FFmpeg Presets page.
the serial port becomes tcp://ip:port
it should be in tube's docs
the 800 usb is fine too
just use a usb extender to get away from usb ports and escape a network rack
I'm a noob and I'd be lying if I said I didn't get lost in the docs.
gotcha on 800 usb + extender. if I set it up (I have ~150 zwave devices in my house) and want to move later....doable?
you just nvm backup and restore from one controller to the other
it's seamless takes like 5min
sweet. will start with stick then
it's good to have an nvm backup stored offsite anyways
it's a feature inside zwave js ui
we have a discord server too^
cool - does that get automatically backed up with the google drive HA integration?
I'm guessing no? That'd be too easy?
no but i guess you could automate it
meh - let's start easy-ish. once I get it set up I'll hit back up if I get stuck
you guys rock
thanks again, and sorry in advance for more q. gotta go watch some YT on Frigate. Seems pretty awesome if I can get that working in HA with unify cams. That + Homekit basic viewing has me pretty set
basically i use unifi protect app for basic nvr functions and frigate with the unifi cam rtsps streams for object detetion in home assistant
i.e. "if gate open and dog detected in backyard, notify / alarm blah blah"
1 last q - I had an older Z wave stick I was testing with. I’ll swap for the zooz. Best way to do that uninstall and reinstall?
uh
Sexy. How’s the latency?
with zwave js ui addon in home assistant?
i think if you delete the addon the data in the dir all goes away
yolo
the actual zwave devices will have to be rejoined tho
maybe factory reset first it just depends
The smart thing to do would be to exclude the devices from the old stick and join them to the new one. I’ve heard horror stories and backup/restore in zw2js.
Thanks I’ve just been testing. No restore here. Just want to get the new stick updated as the Zwave controller
Yup, just do as @cold moon said then and you should be fine.
you dont actually have to exclude from the old stick. you can exclude from any stick it sends out a signal and if the device is in exclusion mode it does it
make sure you're using zwave js ui not zwave js addon
Usually. Some devices tend to freak out when being excluded from a coordinator they weren’t joined with. I had problems with my ecolinks with that. They wouldn’t exclude from any stick but the one they were paired with. 🤷♂️
Fun. Ok. Thanks. Will uninstall and reinstall JS ui then go forth with exclusion
You might as well exclude first
fixed it 🙂 my quirky indenting and markdown don't work too well
Hi, has anyone ever had this problem after installing a new NVME drive to their HAOS x64 unit?
Best I could glean from searching online is it's an IOMMU problem on Ryzen (my mini PC HAOS has a 2200G) and can be fixed by updating the kernel(?)
You can disable IOMMU. I don't think HAOS uses it. HAOS updates the kernel very often btw.
Yeah, saw that solution online for it but was worried since I didn't know if it'd screw things over. Thanks!
Any recommended humidity sensors that work with HA and aren't just battery powered?
I get ~2 years out of my battery powered Aqara sensors
Hello! I recently bought this
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
AU$74.09 60%OFF | Zemismart Tuya Zigbee Roller Blind Motor for 17mm 25mm Tube Built-in Battery Shade Engine Smart Life Alexa Google Home Control
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqR0IGm
And I'm looking at the instructions and can't see any way to send limits without the remote. Any one have any experience?
What are you using to connect it to HA?
Z2m
Sorry, should have mentioned thay
Integrate your Zemismart ZM-AM02_cover via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Then #zigbee-archived can probably better help you
Posted it there, thanks. I thought this channel might be able to chime in if there was a hardware way to set it/known way.
I mean... It's much better than the Modern iMac's... The suction cup is honestly not that bad! There's a youtuber I can't recall who uses duct tape as handles too, don't need a particularly strong suction
Looking for a wifi or zigbee version of this: https://shop.homeseer.com/collections/z-wave-sensors/products/z-wave-indicator-light-sensor
I'm willing to homebrew it if I need to. Has anyone seen something similar or have any ideas on how to DIY it?
Description Backordered. Shipping week of June 3rd We are excited to introduce the Apollo MSR-2 sensor, a updated version of our popular MSR-1, developed with your feedback. The MSR-2 builds on the foundation of the MSR-1, incorporating several incremental upgrades to enhance performance and usability. What’s New? •
oh, big nevermind
that is a wild sensor
so you want a light level sensor?
that's not what that thing really does
it's monitoring specific LEDs on things, not ambient light
Not an ambient light sensor, but a more targeted one. Maybe something with a small photoresistor on it? I'm looking for the same use case, but my HA is on wifi/zigbee right now
i'm not seeing that based on the documentation https://docs.homeseer.com/products/hs-fs100-user-guide#HS-FS100+UserGuide-Features
The light sensor can be mounted over any indicator light and will notify your controller with a Z-Wave command and will beep 5 times when light is detected. Another Z-Wave command will be sent to the controller when light is no longer detected. This sensor will check for light every 60 seconds on battery power or every 400 ms on line power.```
it's just a light sensor
The light sensor can be mounted over any indicator light and will notify your controller with a Z-Wave command and will beep 5 times when light is detected
Meaning something like the Apollo I linked won’t work
technically it could work with an ir receiver attached
but i dont understand his use case enough to recommend a specific thing yet
fair
Hello all ! So, i've managed to make my little setup with A.I and answers on my Amazon Echo Dot and Ulanzi but i have many problems with the Atom Echo. It's gonna stop working a lot of time after a few triggers with "failed to allocate DMA buffer" and stuff like this. So it was fun to play, made me able to build everything around but now i'd like something more reliable. What would you advise ? Another Esp32 like a Korvo that seems to have better mics ? Or a Pi Zero W2 with a ReSpeaker 2 on it ? Thanks !
https://youtu.be/06mKmWbyOuA
It's been a week that I decided I would do this little setup a way or another. It was not easy to say the least, but I knew it was possible. There are no source from what I've seen that managed to send the sound on Echo devices. But it was totally possible on Google devices (so better take those if you want to reproduce)
The Echo Dot is totally...
Hey guys I have a hardware question for a newbie starting . As usual my first is should I go the ha yellow or green ? Or should I get a nuc ? I read a few reviews and the zb adaptor I’ think that smlight slzb06
Any suggestions ? I’m trying to list everything for the house and finalise the products before I start buying
Ps I hope this is the right place. If not please do let me know
https://discord.gg/ctaAn4mD?event=1237575218378051674 apollo automation is doing a livestream - they sell esphome esp32 multisensors for mmwave, multi person mmwave, and mutli-air sensors.
I notice that if I use the physical switch to turn off my smart bulb it loses power completely and disconnects from my zigbee network. Is there a way to configure it so that it keeps power even when its off so that I can control it with a physical switch and with zigbee?
Is the solution one of those button press switches rather than a flip switch
@turbid raft For smart bulbs I have a mix of Zigbee switches - mostly Aqara, a few Ikea - that I have placed in strategic places for people to turn lights on an off. I also have a few places where I have replaced the physical switches with smart switches (in my case I've put Sonoff dimmers behind a traditional switch plate, and replaced the toggle mech with a push button)
pretty sure some places make toggle shaped smart switches
Oh so is it generally not advisable to use smart bulbs in places you have switches connected to them
I'm not sure I'd say "not advisable", but if you live with other people they'll keep turning them off 🙂
Or if you do just get a push button switch?
The dimmers dont work for me cause my electrical boxes dont have enough space along with the switch itself (USA)
@turbid raft I thought we had talked about smart relays already?
You can put a smart switch module (wifi or zigbee) behind an existing switch, or you can replace it with a smart switch and configure it so that the switch only sends events to HA, and doesn't switch the power.
Or, you can ditch the smart bulbs, use normal LED bulbs, with smart switches/dimmers
ok but what about second talk about smart relays?
Lol
Yeah I realized smart relays dont work for me
Not enough space in the wall (i have thin walls)
Ah. I'm in Australia, in an old house. We don't use wall boxes
Ahhhh gotcha. And you can’t fit smart switches in your metal gang boxes?
The smart switches I found were either really expensive or not USA rated
Compared to a $12 ikea tradfri
Yup. A Nuc or other mini PC would be fine.
Ok. Well, one thing you could do is just hardwire the switch so it doesn’t work any longer and always supply power. Buuuuuuttttt, that might not be up to code. I’m not an electrician.
yeah def not LOL
Do those smart relays allow for dimming?
Or just on/off
I guess smart bulbs are more geared towards lamps and such
Most relays just do on/off, but Shelly has some good dimmers.
Eh, yes and no. I have like 60(?) smart bulbs.
But the ones that could potentially be turned on or off are Wiz WiFi bulbs. So they don’t trash my Zigbee mesh. And they’re cheap too.
is there a box in the ceiling to support the fixture?
you can install the relay above the fixture just as well as in the wall
it's a solution for people who need neutral but don't have it at the switch too
I thought that would violate code
it needs to be in A box
ohhh
wait thats genius
lemme ask my dad
cause hes remodeling the house im instlaling this all in so
an extra box when he knocks down and rebuilds the wall isnt too bad
most of the time a fixture has to have a box to hang from (though my old house doesn't always have them)
you can't bury a box
if he's pulling out the wall, he can put a bigger box for the switch
anything can be buried with enough dirt 😉
yeah yeah 😛
Couldn’t resist. lol
i mean that's not any better than having the relay loose in the wall
there's no cheap way to do the whole smart home thing without running into weird problems.
you can do things on a budget, but that usually means doing it a little at a time
This is why I always say “you get what you pay for usually”
I do have some inexpensive things in my setup, and they meet my low expectations.
one surprisingly good decision in retrospect was to get the Sengled zigbee bulbs that don't have a router for most of my smart bulb placements, since I can't stop people from using dumb switches to turn things off. it makes the bulb inaccessible but doesn't disrupt the mesh
walls not thick enough
go wider
k
That’s why I went with a lot of Wiz bulbs. They have this neat feature called “WizClick” that can do actions based upon the switch being toggled. Neat trick actually.
i guess?
i don't usually trust aliexpress to give me what i pay for
we have metal junction boxes
tbh the only thing I havent been happy with is these usb zigbee extenders I got
everything else been awesome
damn why america need to force u to get metal junction boxes
to stop you from burning your house down
cant u have plastic ones in the EU tho
i'm not sure you can have junction boxes in the eu
I thought plastic boxes were also up to code? I mean, all mine are metal, but my house was built in 1952.
plastic work boxes are good, not junction boxes
work boxes are an end point, so they don't need to be grounded
when I say work boxes, I mean behind the switch or outlet in the wall.
Eh, like I said, I’m not an electrician. 😊
i'm not either, but my Dad also was one
guess the only way to do this is to pony up for smart switches
metal IS a better choice, for sure.
but for residential buildings you're permitted plastic at the end point
oh, well, I guess if you have metal conduit running in the wall, then you'd need a metal box to cap that. I haven't ever seen it though
Expand your control with the Enbrighten Add-on Switch with QuickFit and SimpleWire When paired with an Enbrighten smart switch or dimmer including Z-Wave and Zigbee controls the hardwired device completes multi-switch systems Wirelessly operate and schedule indoor or outdoor fixtures from up to f...
damn american companies
upcharging
there's probably someone who will tell you that's fine, but I'd never buy another GE zigbee device again
because I ended up needing to send back the things I've tried from them.
Thanks for the responses, it will be to sense when the done indicator LED comes on for my dryer. The Homeseer would be perfect if I wasn't already built around wifi and zigbee.
I've looked into higher amperage smart plugs and vibration sensors, but I have a washer underneath that makes a bunch of false reports, and the dryer is 240v/24A.
I even tried motion sensors to look into the drums, but that doesnt work when the lights are off.
damn
they're half the price of the inovelli for a reason
The enbrightens Zigbee line is “not bad”. Still Jasco, but at least they have firmware updates supposedly.
says the guy who defers to his dad for electrical knowledge, but somehow knows a ton about electronics to know when something is overengineered?
Enhance your control with the UltraPro Add-on Switch with QuickFit™ and SimpleWire™. When paired with a smart switch, dimmer or fan control, the hardwired device completes multi-switch systems. It works seamlessly with smart devices from UltraPro, GE, Jasco, Enbrighten and Honeywell. Wirelessly o...
these are interesting
I mean im an engineer not an electrician
idk house code
well, best of luck to you. I went with cheap stuff to start and I've had to buy more expensive stuff to replace most of it
not all of it though. some of it is just annoying and not bad
fair
any idea if you can tell if these act as zigbee signal extenders?
I’ve never heard of those. But, those are addon switches for 3-way setups.
Their main one is zwave though, so probably no.
wait is add on just like
it means it’s a regular switch
but it works in conjunction with a same but smart version of that switch
Not exactly. 3/4-way switches are where you have the same light/outlet controlled by multiple switches.
ohhh
but if you have ur own zigbee hub then it’s fine?
wait no its not fine
damn
smart switches expensive
I told you… just go with Aqaras. $35-ish each and they are solid.
its snot that I wouldnt spend it
its my dad doesnt care enough abt smart home to spend that muhc
its why im using cheap ali sensors n stuff
maybe down the line once everything is set up but ig ill put it on hold for now
Yeah, I get it. But like I said, if you’re connecting devices to mains power, don’t take chances. Go cheap on everything else (sensors, etc). But don’t skimp on something connecting to the mains power.
Spend cheap = poor performance and many problems. Plus then you have to spend more later.
ill try and talk him into it lol
tru
tbf all my ali sensors have been running great
easy setup and no connection loss
If you burn the house down you won't be able to afford the decent ones
no ik
thats why im only gonna go cheap on small stuff
temp sensor, water sensor, door, etc
chances of battery powered tech blowing up is stupid low
Yup. That’s why I said things connecting to the mains. lol
Anytime!!! Happy to help.
i got an m5Stack dial i wanted to play around with and see if I can make it work with some HA controls. has anyone done any work with this device before? or does anyone have some example projects for HA with it?
If you're an engineer, just spend your own dollars on them
Never heard of it, but it has an interesting name
its a pretty neat little device. basically an encoder on a stamp sized esp32 with a round color touch screen
Did you look at the forums?
eg https://community.home-assistant.io/t/what-has-your-experience-been-with-m5stack/629570
I really love all the things you can do with ESP32 and sensors. However, I hate dealing with soldering, wiring, fiddling with small electric components when I feel I shouldn’t truly have to. I’m trying to make life as headache free as possible. M5Stack Stick looks like the product for me. Plug and play: the wiring, soldering, compatibility c...
any recommandation for hard wired, discret PIR sensor ? I'm planing a rennov, and find it crazy that we can get tiny zigbee one, but can't have as tiny wired one even if they don't have to hold a battery
Aeotec do some (USB powered) Z-Wave ones
KNX?
Is this a good thing to run ha supervised on? ; HP Elitedesk 705 G4 MINI PC / Ryzen 5 pro 2400G 3.6ghz / 16gb werkgeheugen / 256GB SSD / Windows 11 /
Yes but don't use supervised:
- #installation-archived message
- #installation-archived message
Install Proxmox VE on that machine and virtualize HAOS and whatever else you want.
I have a pi 4 now 8gb with 1tb ssd.
But what is the advantage of proxmox ect. And how is that with updates. For z2m for example
Here's some benefits: #hardware-archived message
It's exactly the same as a normal PC.
definitely don't run supervised with proxmox
or without proxmox
use haos in a vm or the container if you're already good at containers
I have this weird situation. I have several Kasa Switches (HS 220 Smart WiFi Dimmer Switch and HS 210 3way switches). They keep getting disconnected from the wifi (Unifi Dream Machine Router with Unifi APs and Extenders). Since they get disconnected, HASS obviously can't connect to them....and they dont show up in the router as conencted. The WEIRD part is that they still work within the KASA App. How can this be? can they be connecting through a different protocol or something? like to an alexa, ring alarm or something? they even work from outside of the LAN.
Do you actually see them dropping from the Unifi system? Like, if you go into the controller and look at your clients, are they really disconnected? To me it sounds more like HA not able to connect to the Kasa devices themselves for some reason.
They show as offline. The are 100% not connected to the wifi. Whenever they do show up in the router, they become "usable" in home assistant. And when they are not conencted to the router, they are greyed out in Hass
That's weird... AFAIK, they are WiFi only. Maybe they are using BT or something else to connect to the app? Is it all your switches and dimmers dropping or just a few here and there?
That is what I was thinking, that either they are bluetooth capable or have matter built in (even though it isnt advertised) or something like that. But the werid thing is that they respond when you trigger them from the Kasa app even if you are miles away from the house.
and most of them disconnect 99% of the time
it isnt jsut a few
Yeah, I don't know... I mean, to me, it sounds like something weird in the switches themselves, but for most of them to drop? Do you have any traffic shaping or WiFi schedules setup maybe? I had a weird thing where I had a WiFi schedule setup on one of my APs (I was bored that day) and devices were dropping while trying to switch to other APs.
lol. No Schedules and i turned off all the traffic shaping stuff in order to troubleshoot.
and they are on a 2.4g only wifi network (also to troubleshoot)
How many devices do you have on that wifi network? Is it possible you are running out of DHCP leases or something like that? Is it a standard /24 subnet?
I just came up on a post about that but it doesent make sense if it is that. there is never really more than 35 devices connected to the network. And yes. a standard /24 subnet
Huh... yeah, I'm not sure, tbh. I don't have any Kasa kit, but that just sounds weird. I kinda wonder if maybe it's something in the AP(s) firmware perhaps? Might make sense to snap a log of the APs and see if there's something there when the devices go offline (but don't).
good idea. thank you
I haven't noticed by kasa's all going off (but they do sometimes, and eventually come back)
But mine are not your switches, just power monitoring smart plugs; probably completely different firmware
Presence sensors...is Aqara the way to go?
no the fp1 are old and the fp2 are too expensive and have ghosting issues still
suggestions?
i'm biased but i like the apollo msr-2 or MTR-1 (multi target)
Biased how?
i'm helping do some work for them part time starting yesterday
oh nice
Do you have them on a dedicated 2.4ghz network? I resolved a bunch of my wifi based (wiz lights) issues by setting up a dedicated 2.4ghz SSID (same /24 network), and then turning most options off, except the proxy-arp option, which turns broadcasts to unicast for the iot devices, which seems to help tremedously in my use case: (This is my unifi setup for the network, I also dropped the minimum data rate to minimum, not sure this is needed)
I'm planning on picking up a couple of the msr-2 when they come back in stock
I "still" need to configure my MSR1's I bought 6 months ago sadly
they really arent too bad to setup
yea, I need to position them (with power), and i have working hue motion sensors in most places already. It was more sitting down and trying to tune them to trigger, but not on the cats, and perhaps figure out we're on the couch, vs walking by.
(the hue motion sensors work, so fighting that)
Hello, brand new to this forum so I hope I am in the right place.
Anyway, how do I update my devices when new firmware comes out for individual devices not the os for HA? Majority of my devices I have removed from the native apps in favor of HA. Thank you for any help you can give.
the official answer "it depends"
i was hopping for something else, i hate that their programation software require internet to validate you licence ...
One of those day they will change it and i won't have any control on the hardware in my home ...
Then probably you're looking at #diy-archived with ethernet connected ESPs
Hi, I'm hoping this is the right place, could somebody guide me to a z-wave dongle of 700 or 800 series that works with green and can be bought in the EU?
Preferably 800
#zwave-archived can probably better help there
hi all, I am looking for a thermostat to manage my heating system that can be integrated in HA? do you have any hints? thanks in advance 🙂
@regal bison Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
I am in Italy, I can spend up to 200-300 euros, WiFi and Zigbee are fine
the main scope is to control apartment heating system through HA and even through manual control
you'll probably need to mention what method you use to heat your apartment
it is a standard gas boiler
I like him, he will tell you any shit you want to hear
how do you think? can I get an early fire warning from a smoke detector if CO2 ppm goes too high? I think smoke comes after
You can get high CO2 readings with no fire present. But, you should have an alarm set on those as well since high CO2 is dangerous as well.
right, thanks
I can see that the CO2 ppm almost triples near the closed fire stove. I would need to find a sweet spot between this scenario and smoke from other (undesirable) sources
I mean, wouldn’t the smoke detection be enough to alarm on?
you know, I just wonder how high CO2 ppm has to go for the smoke to appear, is the undesirable fire smoking already at 1500ppm CO2 or much higher?
perhaps it is a red herring, any fire produces some amount of smoke so the only question is how these detectors are sensitive
are you guys testing your smoke detectors with a smoke?
i tested mine with a fire!!! lights were flashing phone was ringing i didnt see or hear anything was using an angle grinder in the garage while the kitchen was on fire, the dogs barking alerted me in the end
ok quality air levels should be below 1000ppm I've seen people quoting 2500ppm in closed houses when the wildfires were engulfing Canada
not quite sure why a CO2 sensor would be a pre warning
Proper smoke detectors trigger on trace amounts being present
I have 2 different makes just in case and a separate CO sensor but wondering if you test them, I could introduce a 3rd one
You test them by using the in built test function
the wildfire must be starving all the oxygen in the area
smoke detectors dont actually trigger on co2 though
It's not a good measurement for something being wrong
I think you are right, I took smoke concetration ppm for CO2 ppm I can see on my air quality sensor
carbon monoxide detectors are good for open fires but co2 i dont think really do anything other than indicate air quality
For you to measure co2 upwards of 30k ppm something must have gone horribly wrong
and rooms with open fires are better off with co detectors and heat detectors\
right
in the guide for my CO detector it says to actually keep it away from rooms with fire sources, like 6m
I think they want these detectors including smoke detectors to be placed in hallways
Sounds expensive just to know if your house is burning down
a heat sensor could be a good way of providing an early warning
do you mean the heat sensors are expensive?
Relative, a lot of the smart connected gear is significantly more expensive for rather little gains
right
Having them in a different room, possibly behind a door just defies the purpose of having them in the first place in my mimd
hope not UK law used to say 3m from a fire sorce at head height
I think room that can be closed would classify as "dead space" and that is why they don't want sensors installed in there
it has to be space where there is some air flow like hallways
heat alarms in any rooms with a fire source, smoke alarms in hallways and carbon monoxide at head height 3m from every fire source used to be the regulations
sounds pretty reasonable
makes sense
carbon monoxide alarms dont trigger on ppm at any time they trigger if the ppm is above a value for a time period
say over 70ppm for 30 days they will trigger
That seems odd if the recommended limits are below 9 for longer than 8 hours
sorry its been a while kidde alarms set off if they detect 40ppm average over 8 hours
seems kidde dont mind you having a headache and vomiting
and they used to be considered one of the best when i was working
I see I see that makes a lot more sense ^^
I see the n100 from beelink recommended fairly often here. Is that powerful enough to run proxmox + HA + a Jellyfin server comfortably?
Yes
perfect, thanks. I'm hoping to get off of my raspberry pi sooner than later.
you should try to avoid transcoding on a low powered system, but an n100 is a step up from rpi there as well
Thanks!
transcoding is pretty much alright with the n100, you just want to utilize the igpu for it
it's ok, yes. for a stream or two
but you should avoid it anyway, if you can
direct play is so much less resource intensive and most modern things can play most modern formats. if you have 4k things, keep a 1080p or 720p copy too
storage costs seem far more expensive than the additional 5w of power draw during playpack, especially with such a small machine where extensible storage is limited
the iGPU/quicksync transcoding capabilities of the n100 chip are not up to the standards of a full cpu of the past few generations. If you're running transcode from 4k for more than a couple of people, or need to transcode from any of the unsupported formats, it will struggle. it is very much the successor to the old Atom series even if it's being treated like the latest celeron.
it's a cheap computer, don't expect the moon from it
Hey we got to the moon with something way less powerful than a calculator sooooo
if you have the right expectations, you can do just fine
we got to the moon with people doing the calculations by hand
it took years to be ready to launch. if that's what you're expecting, years to load a video, then you'll be happy with basically anything
😉
just to reiterate: don't expect to host videos for a hundred people, or even a dozen,who need transcoding from 4k on that, and you'll be fine.
i've seen quotes of multiple 4k streams with the n100 igpu
he switches from a raspberry pi, not from something already serving netflix to the south coast of the us.
yeah, I already said that too. right here.
I’m not streaming with the pi
it really is fine to do no issues
I've spent time in the plex discord, people do show up there trying to do that craziness and it doesn't hurt to manage expectations
i wouldnt personally run plex on a mini pc just cuz of storage constraints over like usb3 only
the only thing i highly would recommend turning on is the transcoding limiter
else zooming through large movie files becomes a potential memory issue
for a plex box i'd build out a whitebox ryzen nas with unraid/truenas/proxmox
he wants jellyfin, but I run my plex with all of my storage on a separate nas
nfs
(all i can say, it works surprisingly good)
and the server on an nvidia shield
https://shield-labels.square.site/ i got two of the plex stickers from this guy for my newer shield remotes
funky
i'd rather see that than netflix lol
netflix may not leak your watch history to your friends at random
they just sell it
i have the shield in my network rack instead of behind my tv
he works at a printing place so he has access to really high end printing equipment. i think i've had the stickers on the remotes for 2 years without them wearing down
that was a funny discovery about plex, that I was getting emails about my friends watch habits
"Michael completed Season 1 of Alf, what are you watching this week?"
i switched to jelly after like a week, plex just felt to greedy for too little features and external dependencies that are useless
oh you want to watch your movies from your device on your ipad? guess you need a subscription
i've gotten my money's worth lol
yes
a lot of free features used to be paid only
when i bought lifetime i couldnt share to friends without plexpass
and some other expected features
i mean they all should just be free, you host the service why would you need to pay for that aswell
you're paying them to release updates quicker
I went with Emby after Plex started choking on my remote users and I finally got tired of all the overhead of Plex.
i dont want more data being shared any quicker 
anyway, @native pilot was asking about jellyfin rather than plex so I'm not sure how we got on this topic
Are you new here? 🤣
nah, just sarcastic
I knew I liked something about you. lol
🙂
if we whip the jelly maybe we get oidc support any faster
godawful any application ever supports ldap
Why you hating on ldap?! (Kidding… ldap SUCKS)
ldap support is great for enterprise things, not terribly useful for home stuff
ldap is better than managing users by spreadsheets
But I’m curious what the jellyfin question was.
just about running HA+jellyfin+prox on an n100 beelink
Ohhhhh ok
i dont even know where to begin ranting about ldap
it has the worst inheritance stucture ever and olc is a funky joke
Show us on the doll where ldap touched you. 🤣
Right in the OU
our ldap at work is basically a clone of AD, so 🤷
slightly different queries for different systems, still better than spreadsheet imports
if you have 30 users, then there's no reason to screw with that
id take spreadsheets over twohundred optional attributes just to get an email attached to a name
looking at you inetorguser
if you have 30k users, you hire an extra guy for the AD team
the microsoft cloud one has recursive roles and stuff stripped or something if i recall
dunno, our Azure AD is a clone of the on prem one
we had that switched a while back and it broke the applications
fun with microsoft, good thing it wasnt me
i can only imagine
there's a reason sysadmin can be shortened to sadmin
i'm glad I'm not on that team, I'll agree that much. as a consumer of their directory, authorization, and authentication services, I'm glad they exist
all i want is keycloak™️ but it can simulate an ldap pretty please
all I want is an administrative assistant for a couple of weeks
homeassistant managed 
my home assistant is ok. I have probably 40 devices that I haven't connected and configured yet, but they're pretty low on the project list I haven't written down and need a secretary to help with
Looking for a nice tablet for wall panel with fullykiosk, would you recommend the amazon fire 8 still?
i'd buy a new or used decent android tablet not a fire tablet these days
Any brand or model recommendation? (any size is fine)
im not the right guy to suggest android stuff sorry
It's ok, I heard that anything above 4gb ram is ok but just wanna make sure, probably I'll hunt for some cheap used one
that's what i would do
like galaxy tab A made in the last few years maybe? it's prob worth scouring reddit to see what the cool kids are using these days. i still have a fire 10 2022 iirc which works fine but i wouldnt buy a used one and the new generation are harder to hack with fire toolbox or cant fully be hacked or something
I'm going to make one with a surface x pro because i can't think of anything else to do with it
can you run fully kiosk on that?
but no ability to have it wake up and have hass integration like fully kiosk?
is there no desktop app for windows?
i still don't have any other ideas for what to do with it
if you have to walk up to it and turn it on to interact with it instead of it turning on itself as you walk up to it then it's not that useful as a wall tablet
or at least it's not ideal
if I'm putting it on the door of the fridge, I think I'd rather have a button to wake it up
i go there most of the time for something other than dashboard interaction
I thought it was easy to set up, at least that's how it looks in YouTube videos.
Sell it? Overkill for a home assistant web interface 🥲
Besides accessibility for guests, what's the draw of having a dedicated tablet? I can't see it being more convenient than a phone?
Useful to trigger ventilation or just open a window, notable productivity reduction past around ~1500 ppm for me
like i said air quality but not fire safety mine tells me when the neighbor's are burning tires
Why are they burning that??
because poor asians burn tires for the steel wire inside. Recycling is the main reason the continent switched over to fiber before anyone else, the copper lines were being stolen almost monthly.
Oh TIL
Me also, had no idea what "TIL" meant
NOUS L6Z ZigBee Smart Switch Breaker - https://nous.technology/product/l6z.html
Where to buy Nous L6Z Zigbee Smart Switch Breaker for home ⚡ A reliable and high-quality product for a comfortable life TM NOUS
Trying to use it to make a dumb switch smart. It's a double rocker, I only need to make one side of the dumb switch "smart:
I can't figure out the wiring
3 wires. Live, L1 & L2
I tried parallel to the dumb switch
But it doesn't complete the circuit or cut it, when I activate the smart switch
Basically, I want to retain the ability to use the dumb rocker to turn on/off the light, but also be able to do it remotely as part of automations, via the smart relay.
Are you aware that it's 6:36am in NYC and 3:36am in SF? Which means most of the US is asleep right now, and Europe is in the middle of the working day. People will post when they have the time and ability to do so.
what you linked doesn't have the ability you're looking for.
the only way to get that ability is to add a relay to the circuit
behind the toggle switch
i.e. the hardware needs to see the state of the toggle switch at all times when delivering power to the circuit.
Ooops. Thank you.
I've been making what your looking for with esphome recently a Ac esp relay board + an AC optocoupler. The regular switch has to be a two way wired live to common then l1/l2 to the relays nc/no then the common of the relay to both the light and the optocoupler this allows status of the light to be shown in Home assist and gives the dumb function.
I can do anything I want with it except sell it.
I'm the only one who ever looks at it on the phone, I'd like my sweetie and my son to be unable to say they didn't see important info
walk up to it and it wakes up to easily see a dashboard with cameras or weather or w/e. depends how you use home assistant with how useful it would be
doorbell rings -> livestream of camera on tablet and any tvs that are on + mobile phone
etc etc
I think an agenda display might be the most useful thing for someone I will not name
Hi,
I'm looking to get HA for my home. I was thinking to get Raspberry pi.
I currently have a switchbot bot, but since I do not have a hub I cannot control it verry easy.
I also have some tapo powerplugs that I currently use.
I'm wondering what Raspberry pi would fit my needs?
Can I both run HA and use my raspberry pi as hub for my switchbot? OR would I need 2 raspberry pi's?
i'd probably buy the $40 switchbot hub mini and a pi4
it functions as an IR blaster as well as allowing your switchbot to be controlled by things, so you can control dumb remote things in the room where you set it up
actually, it looks like you might not need it? I've never used switchbot https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/switchbot/
Aha nice!
So a pi4 would be fine
I hope my pi's bluetooth will reach te switchbot bot
an alternative would be to use esphome to get bluetooth proxy spread around your house
that's useful for more than just the switchbot, cheap bluetooth sensors are cheap
Alright nice 🙂 I'll add it to the maybe list
An ir blaster is usefull but not needed atm
I was thinking of automating IR candles someday
👀 I request more details
I don't understand
Oh, Didn't know you could trigger doorbell ringing to TV screens! Is this an android TV thing or plugging in a rpi or something?
it would be great if you'd stop pinging me with your replies
My bad, new to discord, is there a way to switch off ping by default?
nope, you have to turn it off per message
I'm not sure what you're looking for though. You asked why a display instead of people using their phone, but I'm the only one who ever does things on the phone with HA. For the most part actual automations do the work of turning things on and off, so there isn't really a need to interact with it. I've been working, a little, to add information about the outside world into my dashboards and it would be good to show those to my coinhabitors sometimes. a kiosk for that sort of thing would be useful
Hello
So I managed to have the answer to my query on the Atom Echo from GPT (OpenAI Extended) talked either by a mp3 sent to it or directly with the text being spoken by Alexa's voice to my Echo Dot. The thing is that I did all this by modifying the components code. I'd like if possible to do this directly from the Atom Echo yaml conf and send the text of the answer via the notify service that makes a request to the Echo Dot, but I don't know how to retrieve the text of the answer. I only manage to get the audio or I also can get the text of what I've said so my STT.
To get the text of what I have said, it is
on_stt_end:
then:
- lambda: id(stt_text) = x.c_str();
I tried tts_text but it's not working. Has anyone a clue ? Thanks
Nvidia Shield TV livestreaming camera notifications
https://seanblanchfield.com/2023/06/realtime-pip-cameras-on-tv-with-home-assistant-v2
I’ve found a way to get a RTSP camera feed to display in a picture-in-picture popup on my TV, without interrupting any other viewing that might be going on. This all happens locally, without any cloud services, and should work with any IP camera that provides an RTSP stream. This is achieved using a modest IP camera, an Android TV (in my case an...
fwiw i havent actually done it yet cuz it was too involved and i'm lazy so my notifications are still just snapshots. it's on the list
@humble mist Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
I assume there's no coming back from this? 😂
Its a hdd making that noise
Never heard anything like it
can't tell if that's vibration in the case, or a head stuck. Can you get smart data from the drive? Have you power cycled the system (not rebooted, turned it off and on again, yes i know). You appear to have a multitude of drives in that very dark video, this is a raid server, right, and you should just swap the bad for good?
Shits fucked but sounds more like a case fan hitting a wire
step 1 - isolate noise to a drive (or other object)
Yeah i power cycled once i heard it the first time, shot the video at second boot attempt and turned it off before risking any more damage.
It is a raid setup but it sounds like the noise is coming from my backup drive, which is not raid
Haha yeah ik but unfortunately it wasnt
pull the drive, and replace. reseat power cable to make sure you aren't "flapping" power
Hey wtf there was a front fan that made the noise. Dont think it was stuck on anything (i dont see how and when that would have happened) but i just unplugged it for now
Behind the hard drives
+1 for smart home sellout
This happened at the same time though
I think maybe there's been a power surge or something
that says it can't find the root FS (which can be a number of things)
I have 6 drives, 4 hdd in raid, 1 hdd for backup and 1 ssd that i boot from.
I get to the os selection screen then i get that. Can this error be caused by other drives than the boot ssd?
usually requires a drive to have shuffled, or a kernel that doesn't detect the drive
you don't have the screen with drive detection there
ya cmos battery might be dead and it could've then lost power and lost boot drive priority settings
It got to the boot selection screen though
Where i pressed enter on ubuntu