#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 58 of 1
yup, exactly. We went to home depot yesterday and that was literally what I was looking for on them. Found some but none in the style I wanted. Many of the ones in the more modern style I wanted use remotes and don't have pull chains
This would probably be solved if I weren't so picky but I was just looking for options in case the 'no remote' requirement isn't truly a requirement
the house I moved into in the fall has a ceiling fan and hardwired controls
it may have a remote, but we were not given it 🙂
Is it possible to use the Aqara dual rocker switch connected to the M2 hub in decoupled mode, so that when I press the button on the switch I can make it control something besides the switch and the switch retain power?
I was writing them and calling for weeks and they told me to pound sand
I feel the community should teach this company a lesson. They should stay out of the smart home space. They only want to resell your info
Hi all, I’m after some recommendations for lighting hardware. Thinking of an LED bar or strip but open to anything really. Criteria are:
-cheap as possible
-integrates with HA
-bright enough to throw some light onto the ceiling
-ideally able to interact with music/video currently playing but this is not a dealbreaker
Any suggestions would be much appreciated
Lots of people bash on tuya and Sonoff. I'm not talking about anyone specific.
Anyone got any experience with a Shelly EM1 and a contactor for breaking high amp loads? Just got a 15A socket installed to charge my EV and triggering the power while it's drawing causes a "Overpowering problem" in the Shelly/integration (with the contactor not triggering).
Hi all, is there a way to make my dumb lights smart (turn on and off) using zigbee. My original idea was to replace my "dumb" feller switch with a smart one, but feller only offers a switch that sends a zigbee message when clicked, it doesnt actually cut the power to the dumb lamps like I want.
How do I do this
You can put a zigbee module behind the switch and keep it.
if im moving house and leaving 2 zigbee dimmer switches, do i just unpair them from my setup and leaving them will be fine (they should work independently?)
Hopefully this is the right channel for this question. Fiber is being installed in my neighborhood by 2 different companies.Hopefully it will be ready by the end of summer. My goal is to purchase 1.2 GB service. If the wife is willing, I may stretch that to 2.4.
Currently, I am running an internal mesh network and it is being served by Ubiquity ER-X router. While this is a fine little router, it is limited to gigabit ports only.
What I am looking for is an upgrade to this router that supports 2.5 Gb ports. I do not need WiFi on the router, just Ethernet.
Any recommendations that do not break the bank, say under $150? I know that is a TIGHT budget, but I need to keep peace in my marriage 😅
You likely will need something that can do sfp+ for the fiber input and then either sfp+ to copper or directly copper 2.5gbe
It's probably more of a 300-500 buck purchase
If you are already running ui stuff, the dream machine may be a fit for it? I think it has at least two sfp+ ports
Maybe that could be picked up used to be more in line with your budget
You probably can't even get a cheap-ass 2.5 Gb mini-PC from Ali for that
I don’t know of any for $150. You’d probably have to build your own for that price using Opnsense. Ubiquiti does have a router that can do 2.5Gbps for $199. You’ll need to disable IPS/IDS for over 1.5gbps routing though. https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-cloud-keys-gateways/products/uxg-max
Yep, just purchased a n5105 and will be putting Opnsense on it.
1.2GB and 2.4gb service seems rather unnecessary and a waste of money IMO? Especially with a budget of only $150 for over gig hardware. Might consider using the 1.2gb service for a while and take money wasted on 2.4 and put it to better hardware. Also what devices on your network will be leveraging over a gig connection anyways and is it actually needed?
+1 for DIY and using pfSense/OPNSense
Consider wled for the controller.
I got the idea of maybe using some kind of smart speaker to use as my alarm clock and also for ambient noise when I go to sleep and automate that using home assistant
any hardware suggestions?
having like a voice assistant would be a bonus but isn't necessary
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Sonos is great for music, but possibly overkill. Google Home devices aren't so good for music, but are usually cheaper
Symfonisk speakers are cheap Sonos though
yea it'll just be rain sounds playing, and alarms. no music
If you want to play, look at the logitechmediaserver/squeezebox setup (open source). Can install all you need on a PI if you want, https://www.picoreplayer.org/ is an example, then plug speakers into the PI, or connect it to a bluetooth setup.
Smoke detector
i’ve been researching smoke detectors that will report into Home Assistant and haven’t really come to any conclusion
There are several things that I think would be nice, but I have a feeling they’re not available
- 10 year battery
- Interconnected
- Siren can be controlled from Home Assistant
- Alarm can be canceled from Home Assistant
- ZHA or MQTT
Does anybody have any suggestions on anything that works for you?
there are some things that link hard wired interconnects to ha through zwave
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/alarms-and-sirens/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor is mentioned here regularly
SAFE ALERTS PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Quick reports to your hub for low-voltage trigger signals, including interconnected hard wired smoke and CO detectors by all major brands like First Alert, Kidde, and BRK (do NOT use with battery powered detectors) Recognizes and reports both smoke and CO signals from interconnected hard
I use moode audio on a pi zero w. You can use upnp, dnla, and mpd that integrates with home assistant. I think it also supports Logitech media server as well. I also used a pi with nodered and a local media player node and integrated it with mqtt and the nodered UI. That can also integrate with home assistant. Both of these are to play rain sounds
I haven't seen things that meet requirements 3 and 4. I have seen this and plan on adding it as a switch with esp-home. Kidde SM120X Interconnect Accessories Smoke Relay Module https://a.co/d/0YsB28u
408-Sm120x features: -includes: 10 in. Long 18 GA pigtail leads. -Test/reset button. -Power Supply portion can be used with manual pull stations, flow switches and spot type heat detectors. -Use with interconnected installations. -Sensor type: relay module. -Additional info: smoke relay modules i...
Here's a random one for everyone: Would the SMD LED array in a fan generate enough heat to cause an issue if I was to say, 3D print a dimmer/diffuser to go between the shroud and the LEDs? New fans that I got are WAY too bright, and only have 6 brightness steps. Trying to think of a clean way to dim them.
I don't know if a safety alarm is reliable if it can simply be silenced automatically by another device, but my approach was just to get notifications in case I'm out. I went with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FFB233Y
Hi, Just browsing and saw this I've just bought a wifi to eBUS adapter and connected to Vaillant boiler to control the set temperature. Reading data in HA, now looking to send data if details of that would help? There is a lot going on here so plse excuse if I got it wrong or you have an answer.
Not sure what you're asking me but I don't know anything about how to do this, was only looking for advice
I'm interested in Tuya's (or similar) Zigbee presence detector, mounted to the ceiling. However, while the wall mount version is 5V, it looks like the ceiling version is 80V-240V and I don't fill comfortable using this above the shower head. Any idea of whether the ceiling version can also be powered by a 5V power source?
If it says 80V-240V the odds of it working with 5V are somewhere below zero
Of course, I meant bypassing the transformer
Depends on what the guts need, really
If the transformer drops it all to 5V then sure
I can buy and disassemble one, but if someone had done this already it could save me time (and money), hence the question here
Are there any Sonoff NSPanel alternatives?
I'm looking for a small touch panel around that size.
Old Android devices are not an alternative for me.
I would like to avoid making a hole in the wall and just keep it running on USB-C or something.
what specs do you need that exclude old tablets with an aftermarket OS and some mounting tape?
I don't want the time and effort of maintaining the OS. Do you know any alternatives?
Also it would be nice if it looked good like the Sonoff NSPanel.
Hi all, if I'm in the wrong channel please let me know. I'm kinda desperate for help. I have a few CloudFree bulbs (pre-flashed with a version of Tasmota) that I've been trying to connect to my WiFi unsuccessfully. I can get them connected to my phone's hotspot, so it's clearly a router/network issue. Problem is I'm not a network guru, and CloudFree support hasn't responded to my emails, and the Tasmota Discord server didn't help either. My router is a TP-Link Archer AX54, no other routers, APs, or switches are on my network.
I can connect to the bulb's AP without issue, but when the setup process is handing over the connection from the setup device to the bulb, the bulb's web UI displays 'successful' but then tries to redirect to the bulb's new IP, 0.0.0.0. My guest WiFi is off and I don't see the bulb in any DHCP connection logs, but the logs aren't super detailed. A list of things I've tried:
Turned off DHCP and set up a separate RPi-powered DHCP server and restarted DHCP servers multiple times. There are plenty of IP addresses available. No other devices on my network have trouble with DHCP, including other WiFi-enabled bulbs, plugs, and sensors.
Disabled mesh networking
Turn off 5GHz band and disable Smart Connect (allows devices to use 2.4 or 5GHz)
Disable OFDMA and WMM
Ensured AP isolation is off
Capture traffic with Wireshark during setup (not experienced enough for that but I hoped I could find something)
Any help/hints are appreciated. This is a learning process for me but I've been stuck for a few days. Please feel free to ping me in replies!
Ready to use custom firmware for ESP8266 devices (including Sonoff)
Docs:
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/
They have their own Discord server or you can ask in #diy-archived
Best bet is their server, or the #diy-archived channel
thank you
i did make a small hole in the wall to pull the rs485 cable from my hvac. i printed a frame held with 2 screws so i could put a buck converter in the gap to provide 5V for the tablet. I rooted the tablet and installed a custom OS that auto updates, hass app runs on it, installed from FDroid repo, also self updating. the tablets (i got three for the house, one near front entry, one near back, one near garage) are old 7" Galaxy tab S2 (sm-t713b) and one 10" tab S3 (sm-t820), all on LineageOS. the 10" is usbC.
That's nice. Although I want smaller ones all around the house. Like the size of the one you've got under the tablet.
But colour display.
There's always old cell phones... Could easily use a flat wireless charging pad taped to the wall, and then mount the phone over the charging pad so you don't have a wire sticking out from the phone itself, if that's a deterrent. As you see from the image, i went with a 180° return connector for my plugs just to keep the wall "pretty", quiets the complaints. 😉
Looking for recommendations for a zigbee light switch available in 1 to 4 gang models that works with ZHA, can be hard wired in to replace existing dumb switches & available in Australia. A bonus will be if holding the button dims as well but not a show stopper. Will be used to control philips hue downlights.
Hi everyone,
I have a question about integration of HomeAssistant with latching (bistable) relays on DIN.
In my house, I am planning to have all lights controlled by push buttons that are sending impulse to latching relays located in central box.
I am trying to plan a way to control those using HomeAssistant, but I am not sure how to handle feedback if the light is turned on or off at the moment. I will have a esp that will be sending the impulse to the relay same way as switch does, but how can the HomeAssistant know that it got turned on or off?
Thanks.
If all you have for it to work with is a toggle then it can't
You need some way of monitoring the actual state and reporting that - eg power draw
and can I create this type of switch logic in HA? That I will have trigger impulse and feedback that tells state?
A template switch could, as long as HA has all the data
anyone familiar with envisalink?
@gloomy dawn Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.
When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:
- What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
- What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
- Is the problem uniform or erratic?
- What's the exact error message?
- When did it arise?
- What exactly don't you "get"?
- Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?
Does anyone have a nice "clean looking" solution for a home assistant control panel with physical switches, similar to the Brilliant one (unless it's possible to get this to work now??) https://www.brilliant.tech/products/brilliant-control-smart-home-smart-lighting-three-switch
basically we built our house a few years ago (2020) and i had the alarm guy install a full system with a few dsc panels and an evl4 board, full network etc... i had that board working with HA a few years ago, but im trying to re-do everything this week and struggling. in short, i have these exact symptoms: https://forum.eyezon.com/viewtopic.php?t=5380
the board shows offline on eyezon. the online led on the board doesnt light up. it seems like the board is buggy and boot looping. and the firmware version is stuck at 01.00.100 , and no upgrade button
i opened a ticket with eyezon and this is what they responded "Yeah, you left it too long with factory firmware and your physical FLASH
file-system is corrupted.
Yes, you either need a new Envisalink or if you are savvy enough, you
can force all communication with the Envisalink to its real server.
Unfortunately we can't really provide any support for the latter as that
is beyond our scope. You would need a router that can do this as well."
so this $100 board essentially self-destructs if it sits on the factory fw too long?
That sounds like total BS
yea i just asked them that question ^
their response: No, there was an issue with that firmware so that is why you needed to update it. The wear-levelling on the filesystem fails after a few years if you don't update the firmware to the new algorithm.
You firmware would have been updated automatically if you had activated your device when you bought it.
Yeah, that's utter BS
Something that's powered off ain't doing any writing to that file system
We shipped some crap, clearly that's your fault
agreed. they sell a $100 board with faulty stock firmware that essentially kills itself, then their only response is "buy another one"
Yeah, either it was dead out of the gate or it came with faulty NVRAM that's died over time
it worked fine a few years ago
god i hate to do it... but i might get shady and do an amazon switcheroo 😐
I made the DIY "extension cord" except I just used the PC power cord itself directly. Cutting the original cord in half felt like a sin but it was worth it. These things are working great.
Also as a note: I really like Shelly's web-ui. I didn't need to install yet another app!
Glad it worked out so nicely!
Thanks again for the advice.
Hi all,
Any advice for a simple motion sensor? Let me show my amazing paint skills. This is our entry hall.
The door on the left is to the living room. Blue is the stairs. The other (red) door is the front door.
I currently have a Fibaro PIR (for years) but the thing is just crap if you ask me. I was wondering what a good motion sensor (i can go with Z-Wave/Zigbee/Wifi) would be, and especially about the placement. We have a lamp in the middle of the entry hall which we also trigger based on movement, but as you can see it basically only triggers when you're in the middle of the hall already.
From bottom to top, we are talking about maybe 3 meters...
If the range is the problem -> just add one more motion sensor.
If the precision is the problem -> use a MMWave presence detector (for example, Aqara FP2 can even detect "zones" –> in which part of the room you're at the moment).
this sound so simple.....but im struggling. Can anyone point me in the direction of a zigbee switch that fits OVER a standard uk light switch? I want to stop using the wired in switches and use zigbee instead....but ideally id like to cover the wired switch.
usually you replace the old with the new switch
Hit up search and you'll find experiences here
bad experiences are louder than good
I do. I used to have it in my bedroom, but it lost my presence when I was asleep
It works perfectly well in the bathroom:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/can-i-use-a-mmwave-sensor-in-a-small-bathroom/689736/33
Sorry, it took me long enough… But I have finally installed Aqara FP2 in my bathroom 😉 It works great: It has never turned off the light on me (yet) → while the Sonoff motion detector did (while sitting on the toilet or taking a shower). It is “quick” to turn the lights on (as soon as I’m in the process of opening the door). It sees me throug...
hi, i'm trying to get my skyconnect i just got working and am having some trouble, is this the right channel to ask about it?
thank you
ESP32
Can anyone recommend a Smart Light handheld remote control that is HA friendly (can be zigbee, zwave, wifi, bt) that I can use to turn on/off dim up/down for lifx bulbs? I’m in USA, no budget
Hi, i search a lawn mowers robot compatible with HA without cloud, do you know a model ? Thx
@mighty thorn if you want something simple, cheap, and cheerful, the IKEA RODRET or SOMRIG are zigbee devices that might do the trick. the RODRET is a two-button remote which can be bound to control zigbee devices directly, or control other things via automations. it supports single press and press+hold on both buttons (single press sends on/off commands, long press sends dim up/down commands). the SOMRIG is a two-button remote designed as a shortcut controller, but it's in the same form factor. It can only be used via automations, but is more flexible since it can do single press, double press, and press+hold on both buttons. note that they're designed to run off rechargeable AAAs.
The Zooz remote is nice, it’s decora style so can be mounted onto the wall aswell with a decora plate.
Truly Wireless! PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Control Z-Wave devices or activate scenes with the multi-tap feature Classic white paddle/rocker switch design for a consistent look Wire-free: the perfect add-on switch to put in an existing switch box or install on any flat surface Scene Control (select hubs only): trigger up to
@distant yacht so for that fp2, you have to use their app to configure the zones and whatnot right? does it require an account or is it all done in-app and beamed straight to the device via bluetooth or something?
u have to configure it via their app first (using your phone over wifi) -> this is the only way to configure zones and train the AI
unfortunately, something did not work without creating an account first (homekit? setting zones? i don't remember what exactlty).
anyway, u can connect it to HA later via HomeKit -> the general+zone detection will be visible as entities
so if aqara doesnt maintain their app you're out of luck to reconfigure it after or are there other options you know of?
i think u could skip the app/account as it would just work without zones - but im not sure, not tested it
yep, no other way to configure [that i know of]
i have even tried reading their EULA - if you're in europe, they have servers in europe and claim not to send data to china. how do you verify? u dont ;p
one day i will just block it on router and see if it will still work.
thank you!
Hi all. I bought, received and installed 3 linknlink "presence" sensors. I have set them up both on HA and in their app. (unable to set them up without their app) I have used them for 2 days and find them complete garbage. I stand 2 feet away from it and it contantly switches from detected to no detection. I adjusted all the settings i could on their app. In my opinion, these are not presence sensors, but some form of motion sensor without the "bubble" sensor. I am not asking for help to get it working. I am asking if any of you use them and actually got them to work as intended. I'm contacting the company and will be arranging to return them. But can anyone convince me to keep them?
I have a Lutron Smart Bridge that is configured to HA. I previously had a dimmer switch configured but had to reset the physical switch so now the device in HA isn't working (which I would assume would happen). I'm trying to configure that switch again and also add a few more that I recently installed but HA isn't recognizing any new switches. How do I add these new switches to HA?
Looks like I just needed to update
hey is this a dsc panel?
yea looks like it. hrm. i got the new envisalink board and plugged it up, deleted the old system from eyezon and added the new one. says online. but also says:
"Error: Panel Not Connected, Check Wiring or Registered As Wrong Panel Type."
nevermind. it went away randomly after a few min
Hmmm so... I've got kind of a niche hardware request...
I've got a two sink vanity... And what id like is a simple smart button that can trigger turning the lights on, but, id really like for it to be outlet powered (Rather than battery)... It could even just, hang out on the vanity outlet for all it matters (preferably with a pass-through outlet but, meh).
I know it's a super niche thing but, all these wireless buttons and remote controls are overkill, and screw batteries @_@...
If push comes to shove I can do my own electrical and install a new electrical box and do like, a satellite smart switch but... Was hoping to find a less extreme solution ;p
Anyway, googling for such a thing has been unfruitful... It keeps trying to herd me toward smart plugs, which is not what I want xD
So, anyone got any bright ideas? 💡
I have a question about dooya blind motors. Im in china and it seems that there are some differences in model numbers, and possibly specifications. I have found the motor I need and the seller tells me that it has onboard 433mhz reciever. The issue is that I cant find any dooya bridge. My question is, can bridges from other manufacturers be used to control dooya blinds?
Hi guys, is Amcrest still the way to go for an affordable RTSP HD doorbel?
I am using the Reolink doorbell camera. I am delighted with it. It is fast and has great picture quality.
My home assistant server. I made the stickers btw
Is there an esp32 based device with an obd2 port that works well with home assistant? It would be nice to have one that updates when connected to my home network and can work without a mobile app on my phone.
Do you have a light switch there already? You could keep it and put a relay like a Shelly 1pm or Fibaro zwave switch behind it and keep using the switch.
Nope
this would be unbelievably cool. AllState used to let me scan codes via the per-mile ODB tracking thing
How would this help me anyway?
I don't need a relay, I need a simple button
Well the relays are ac powered, you put it behind a light switch and get it to send commands to your lights instead of actually turning anything on off
So the relay goes to waste but you have a mains powered button
okay but, how would I trigger it?
If you had a light switch already somewhere there, even if it is unrelated to the vanity
but.. the light switch would still turn off what it usually turns off no? So what does that have to do with the relay?
The relays usually have two inputs. The secondary does whatever you want, doesn’t flip the relay. So you just replace a single button for lights, with relay and a double switch and wire the new switch to the secondary input
“Just”
In fact there is this: https://www.fibaro.com/en/products/walli-controller-specification/
It can fit into a normal switch box
And be mains powered
your cable solution is pretty similar to mine xd
What hardware is everyone using to run their Home Assistant server?
I have an UnRAID server that I could use, as I can run it in a Docker or a VM, or I could run it on a mini PC
What would you suggest, and can you advise me on a decent "future proof" dongle?
Thank you very much for your help!! 🙏
I'm doing cheap Fujitsu Futro S720, 2 GB RAM, 120 GB SSD -> Proxmox host, HAOS inside VM, Z2M and MQTT in LXCs. Works like a charm for 1,5 years already.
RPi 5 / 4GB (32 GB SD Card) running HA with tandoor recipe addon from third party repo
It makes very little sense to go for dedicated hardware if you already have a VM capable system
For everything else the beelink n100 equipped models or similar will work just fine for most basic needs. But so does anything that got more than a thousand points on a geekbench
How'd the cync lights work out? You get the Matter ones?
VM is easier in my experience . Allows you to run full HAOS and use add-ons and whatnot.
I'm hoping Skyconnect is pretty future proof, considering these guys made it.
GE Cync also has non-Matter bulbs, so it's hard to research
What dongles do you both use?
Sonoff Dongle–P (P! Not E!) with Z2M. Won't say it's future–proof, but it's good enough for me.
I have a Skyconnect and a Zooz
Why two?
I believe Skyconnect does Thread and Zigbee while the Zooz does ZWave.
Sonoff-E works fine with ZHA 🙂
Anyone know the difference between this https://konnected.io/products/konnected-alarm-panel-pro-12-zone-kit?variant=20238711193673 and this https://coiaca.com/product/wifi-bridge-for-alarm-systems-brdsc01-v4/ ?
Makes Any Wired Alarm System Smart, now with ethernet and PoE. Your home, like millions of others, is pre-wired for an alarm system. Konnected is the solution you've been looking for to upgrade or upcycle any brand of wired security system. The Konnected Alarm Panel Pro is an ethernet connectivity enabled easy DIY solution to retrofit any wired ...
Thank you @distant yacht @strange zodiac - are any of these plug and play?
I don't want to spend my life setting everything up and fixing stuff
hey guys, random question as a sanity check - if i have a door sensor and just have the big part of it (with the battery and stuff), can i use a magnet instead of the other half to make HA think the door is closed when the magnet is close to the door sensor?
(a lot of my friends like escape rooms and my wife jokingly said we should do an escape room at our place one day, but what she didn't know is how much stuff HA can do that'll make an awesome escape room, so i'm noting ideas - the door sensor idea so far is that i'll have half a door sensor hidden in a book spine with a wand [with a magnetic tip] and if they touch the right book, it'll trigger an automation)
i havent used those in a long time but maybe this depends on the specific door sensor
like a magnet door sensor you mean?
yeah I mean the one I used was a simple door sensor that the other part was just plain magnet plastic on it
for the record it wasnt iot enabled or anything
sweet, so in theory using a plain magnet should in theory work?
i've got a door sensor just not a magnet to try with, so thought i'd ask before getting a magnet 😛
I d say yes for most situations, but again it is device specific question, like idk if there is complicated door sensors more than just magnet detection
well the ones i have are just about the cheapest zigbee ones i could get, so i can't imagine they'd be very fancy?
though most door sensors are put inside side of the door so idk how would you reach the magnet in the first place
but that's a fair point
yeah, in case of it doesnt work, you could just open inside and see whats inside
or maybe for the specific model you have there could be a teardown video, but honestly magnet will probably just work fine
well i'd put the sensor part of the door sensor somewhere hidden, and i'm hopeful a small but powerful magnet in the tip of a wand/other magical device will be enough to trigger the door sensor at least a bit
is the plan anyway
worth a shot i guess, would be cheap to try anyways
yw, keep me updated if it works or not 🙂
will do! it might not be for a few days until i get a magnet but i'll let you know once i've found something
Hey! On A double window (think [|] ) that opens on the right hand side, where would you place a vibration sensor to detect glass breakage?
On the glass, usually on the hinge bottom corner
If wired that is, for wireless any corner will do
Im havining an issue getting my HA vm on proxmox to see the PCIE network and bluetooth adapter card that i passed through to it.
In HA i can see it under hardware but when i try to add the bluetooth interation its telling me no adapters found.
on the promox side I have iommu running so that isnt an issue anyway i dont think.
Anybody have a similar issue and way to resolve it
I think this is the right channel for this.
I have just installed HA server to an RPI 4 and it is being powered by a POE hat. The fan on the hat is constantly spinning and making noise so i want to adjust the sensor for this in the config.txt file.
I have just tried to link to the RPI directly via hdmi cable but it shows me the custom Home Assistant console instead of the typical one and i cannot interact with it in a way like i normally would.
How do i get access to the config.txt file to make changes to it?
that would be an #installation-archived question
But perhaps Jorg has some insight :). I just Googled and found: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/how-to-edit-the-config-txt-file/462213/4
I'll take a look at that link but will move my question to installation unless Jorg has the answer
ok so i did the login part and then entered /mnt/boot but it gave me permission denied
never mind. Got passed that issue it looks like
cd /mnt/boot/
yerp thats what i realised haha.
Now to learn vim 😂
Assuming you mean the cmdline.txt you can run cat /mnt/boot/cmdline.txt to view it.
no i mean config.txt so i can add in the settings for the POE hat fan control
I got it sorted now i think. Thanks for the help
If you can see it and map it to the PROXMOX, and HAOS can see it (where is hardware?). Did you add it to the config, like the documents mention? -https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/bluetooth/
not sure if this is the right channel but does anyone know of a 4 way compatible motion sensor switch?
just went to install a Lutron motion sensor switch which is billed as multi-way compatible and I just discovered that you need to purchase the companion switches for the other 2 locations ($30 ea).
Hi. I am looking for a fan/motor rpm/speed controller for din mounting. Anyone?? 150w would do it
I don't remember any specific issues with the dongles, but I've spent by fair share of time fighting with Home Assistant. Biggest issue was likely the Nanoleaf bulbs.
Hey folks. The big question of the year: what is the best Hardware for a dedicated Home assistant configuration? I have used since 2020 a dedicated rpi4 (with SSD, battery to prevent unwanted power disrupts, ... ) but with my configuration quite big I'm starting thinking that sometimes slowness in lights on/off, automations,... Can be hardware related (even if globally there is not a huge CPU consumption). So, if I had to change, and if I want to keep a dedicated hw with hassos, what should I chose to have a good compromise between consumption and performances?
I cannot past image but to give you some numbers, huge setup men's: 142 lights, 111 automations, 636 sensors, 221 binary_sensors, ... (Some of these does not matter that much I know). Thanks!!
Ah yes I can paste a photo (it wasn't proposing it before)
And if you want to see the configuration, I described it here a while ago https://blog.mornati.net/home-assistant-with-rpi4-improvements
A (U)SFF/Mini PC.
Guys do you have any recommendations for a 15 inch Tablet / aio pc to Display the ha Dashboard?
any SFF with VESA mount.....
English, please
hey guys,
I have a shelly plug s and for some reason I get an error when I try to add the device. Device IP is 10.1.5.17 and device is reachable by server (ping from 10.1.5.3).
The error log is accessible here: https://pastebin.com/gsPmBMj5
I guess the most important info is :
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/urllib/parse.py", line 182, in port
raise ValueError(f"Port could not be cast to integer value as {port!r}")
ValueError: Port could not be cast to integer value as '//10.1.5.17:80'
Even though I only post 10.1.5.17. Does anybody know?
I dont have trouble adding any other devices until now 😦
The actual error in the Homeassistant is "The Device is using a non supported Firmware Version" (even though im using the newest firmware from shelly 0.13.0).
Pastebin.com is the number one paste tool since 2002. Pastebin is a website where you can store text online for a set period of time.
Hi guys,
Anyone using the skyconnect and have made a firmware upgrade?
Im on EmberZNet 7.3.1 and RCP Multi-PAN 4.3.1
Should I upgrade or pass? (I have never upgraded the firmware so dont know how easy it can brick the dongle, dont want that of course). I have issues but Im always up for possible perfomance and stability upgrades 🙂
My guess would be, that your issues are caused by using Multi-PAN
Jorg, did you talk to me? 🙂 I meant I have NO issues 🙂
Hey all.
So in my bedroom I have GU10 bulbs. I would like to swap them out for some smart GU10 bulbs with RGB capability.
The light switch I have is just a generic one which I did not intend to change for anything.
Is there anything bad about changing out the normal bulbs for smart bulbs at all with how it is? I'm UK based if this makes a difference.
If you need more info, please let me know.
Help is greatly appreciated
it's ok.
suggestions on good + affordable zwave dimmers and switches?
Yes but it's mostly depends on the bulbs and their connectivity
For mesh based ones like for example zigbee, when they be powered off they do no longer be part of that mesh so different devices need to repick a different route of they previously relied on one or multiple of those bulbs
Generally that's not a big issue but for some devices it might be
Zooz
Zen76/77
The #zwave-archived channel
I probably won't use HA to turn them on and off thinking about it. I will still use the bedroom light switch to do that. More so would like to have lights with RGB that i can control with HA
I just got some innr zigbee smart switches to use for a lava lamp and bed side lamp
I was looking at either of these for the bulbs pretty much
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Tapo-Multicolour-L630-4-pack/dp/B0BF5J7BBG
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=innr+gu10+smart+bulb&rh=n%3A213077031%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A250340031&dc=&ds=v1%3AGe8CRSZeG6zdUX5u%2F51WhuhN2uR8r56xs11InB53I%2F0
Probably the tapo ones seeing as i can get 4 for the same price as i can get 2 from innr and i need 3 bulbs
Thoughts?
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Difficult to say really. Personally I would recommend stuff that uses ZigBee over wifi as that won't rely and allocate airtime which you likely want to use otherwise
Both of those brands are known to be probably ok quality wise
if you run haos in a rpi3B and want to upgrade to a rpi5, is it only to change the sd-card from old to the new to get haos work?
No, the Pi3 image won't boot on the Pi5 (or 4)
Fresh #installation-archived and restore a backup
Sure. Whether you benefit from it depends on what you run.
I have a ecobee for my thermostat (1 zone) control. I'd like to track humidity/temp on the other floors of my house-- what's the best way to do this? I primarily have zwave and wifi devices now (but I do have a zigbee radio). No budget.
Best is hard to say. Cheap zigbee hygrometers work fine for me.
Best for me = accurate
I’ve got a Pi3 that I’d like to use as my HA Hub, what would be the best way to get Zigbee for it? Are there USB Dongles? And then, what’s the best cheap Zigbee Bulb? I’ve got 4 lamps I’d like to put smart bulbs into. USA
#zigbee-archived can help there
But yes, USB dongles are an option
Cheap bulbs though tend not to be good, but the Ikea CCT (white temperature) bulbs are ok
Ok fair enough, any particular ZigBee ones you'd recommend?
hue probably tho that is also the most expensive option to go with. others tend to have a good time with ikea or innr ones
One of the ones I linked was innr. I realised after I asked what brand that the innr one was ZigBee. Unfortunate that that's the more expensive option for me in this case 😂
hehe i see
Sky connect
Stay away from the multi pan firmware and it’s solid
Hello
Are the nesw shelly gen3 worth it over the default one
they can upgrade to matter
if they are worth it what is the difference between the blue grey and red model
Hey! I need a wireless outdoor security camera and I am looking for some help. Opening a thread
anyone here using the musiccast/yamaha receiver integration here? If so, have you figured out any work arounds for volume control??
I'm using an appletv for media. I'd essentially like to set the volume to a specific level when the youtube app is opened/starts playing (because for whatever reason youtube is about 20% louder than any other app). I have other automations that start when youtube starts playing, so I know that much is possible, but I can't see a way to set the volume?
I guess this should have gone in integrations.
I've just finished moving my HASS onto a pi5 on SD card. Everything worked ok after uninstalling and reinstalling a couple of add-ons, but now i'm trying to move data to the attached NVMe drive, and am confused by what i see. The NVMe is Samsung 770, but the only option that pops up as a target to move to lists it as a Barracuda Q5 hard drive, and shows it as half the drive size. I have no qualms with half the size because i did have two partitions on the NVMe, about half each, but i'm thrown by the fact that i really can't tell which partition it's seeing. It does not report the device id, only some derrived name which does not match my hardware, and i have no hint of which partition is even seen. One partition was mostly empty, the other was mostly empty except for a small OS on it that i used just to get parted running. Further confusing, i put terminal on it, tried lsblk, not installed, ran df and nothing on the NVMe shows up... Where is HASS finding this misterious Barracuda HDD?
Ok, i did a bit more searching, looking at settings-system-hardware, then expanding AllHardware shows actual devices that were found. Some are identified incorrectly, which makes it uncomfortable to use those names when setting stuff up... I found my NVMe drive, yes, incorrectly identified label, but right device anyway. Looking down the list of partitions for that device i found the one that matches the one single target found for the data-move function. It is the very last partition (three were found). I had wanted to use the second partition, but i guess i could be coerced into using the third one, even though it's smaller than the others. I'm thinking there's some some feature that makes HASS blind to all but the very last partition on a drive... Is this an undocumented feature or a bug?
Need some help with installing mitsubishiHVAC hack onto a wemos d1 mini close. I can get other programs loaded onto it (blink, HVAC8266) and see the wifi it generates. However when I install mitsubishi2MQTT, I cannot see any Wifi SSIDs generated
Hello. I have a garage door opener whose signal outside is very weak. I have used a shelly to control it trough phone, but my wife still prefers to use a radio remote to open, so I bought a generic role-coding to receive the signal from the remote, and I want to connect it to a sonoff zbmini or another switch (dual r3, shelly, or whatever), and make it open the door through inside my network, but I don't know how to wire the device so it sends the signal to the switch. I attach the scheme of the radio receiver:
I've just completed an upgrade of my HA Server, moving from an RPi 4B+ with a SATA SSD to an RPi 5 with an NVME SSD. The transition was quite straightforward, with minimal impact and downtime. I have documented the steps taken if anyone is interested. The performance improvement has been very noticeable, with serving web pages and device data updating on various dashboards being much quicker. I'm very happy with the results and it's definitely worth the minimal effort.
I’ve been thinking of buying the HP EliteDesk 800 G2 SFF for home assistant the specs are Intel Core i5 6500 (3.2GHz) Processor
8GB DDR4-2133 RAM
Intel HD Graphics 530 Integrated Graphics
256GB SSD
Gigabit LAN No in build Wi-Fi Would that be sufficient to run home assistant with things like face recognition?
anyone aware of zigbee equlivants of something like this: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-700-series-z-wave-plus-scene-controller-switch-zen32?variant=40447790776383¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOooBbpL1Z8HQZUdg2qrYV3ATrxnXmGH-TXPIvi5ugsQM11GVv0Q9Wjc&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c
Z-WAVE SWITCH REBORN PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS On/off Z-Wave and manual control from the main button: use with 120 V lights or fans under 3 A 4 smart buttons for remote control* NEW 800 chip: more range, faster signal, SmartStart inclusion + S2 security Z-Wave Long Range ready: extend the wireless coverage up to 1 mile if you
face recognition as in using something like frigate? if so, yes frigate can use the igpu on that 6th gen intel cpu. you dont have to limit yourself to HP look for the lenovo m910q or similar mini pcs on ebay. you should be able to get a 7th or possibly 8th gen for not much more $ these days
Does anyone have any suggestions for a zigbee based remote similar to the '"FUT089Z"" but without the sliders.
the more buttons the better. as I want to use it to control multiple curtains in one/multiple rooms [open close/set=XXX position]
{Multi-press buttons are also not what I am looking for. where 1 key has 3+ features}
The DIY remote is something I might consider using as a LAST RESORT, but I would rather have something OFF-THE-SHELF.
NOTE: I do not want to use any card/cover features, I prefer a PHYSICAL remote for this and use a automation to make this work.
hi all. Thirdreality door/window sensors, good or crap?
replacing my current front and back door Aqara sensors that died for no reason with 75% battery.
@modern moss you alright lol, fall asleep on the keyboard?
Hey! I want to try setting up an indicator for whether the dishwasher is clean or dirty based a power meter on the outlet and a tilt/vibration sensor on the door. What indicator would you use? Want something that it’s easy to see close to the machine. A small colored light or a screen would be perfect. Just haven’t been able to find any off the shelf devices within a reasonable price range 😦 Anyone done something similar?
Thanks for asking. No. Just slow. And took a pause to order dinner (I’m on my phone)
Afraid I haven’t tried it 😦
ah, the dishwasher is a basic plug, so i use a sengled plug for alerts if my washing maching is done. But i believe most smart zigbee plugs now all have power consumption readings
I’ve been using IKEA zigbee sensors at home. Dirt cheap and seem to work well. Although I’ve only had them for a month so long term no idea
Sensors already in place. What is missing is the display/indicator to show the status.
Don’t want to pick up my phone to check … 🙂
ikea unfortunately isnt around the corner and ive heard horror stories of deliveries. Anything on amazon is mostly my go to. Unless my friend goes to ikea, then ill get them to grab something.
what about a led strip to flash when its done based on the power consumption?
or audio from alexa or google saying its done
then a contact sensor on the side and door and after the cycle if the contact sensor was opened then it would reset from clean to loading/dirty
i believe beardedtinker has an upcoming video for epaper devices that could be your display
so you could automate that until the cycle starts its shown as "loading/dirty" then cycle running as "cleaning" and cycle finished but door hasn't opened yet as "done" or "Clean". Of course if you open the door after the cycle is done but havent unloaded it and just closed the door, it would still be reset back to "loading/dirty". You can also have a button on the side of the dishwasher that you press once you've unloaded the dishwasher. Then, once pressed, the display would show "loading/dirty"
I hope I got what you were trying to do, but i may have just added a project to my list for myself...
Sorry for the delay. My plan is to do the following. Change to status clean after the power sensor indicates the cycle is done and back to dirty after the tilt sensor tells me the door has been fully open for more than two minutes (takes care of the cases when we open to let out steam or open to pick out a few items and close again). Probably will have a cleaning status as well while the machine is at work. Button will not work. We had a manual sign that we were supposed to flip, but it was often forgotten and therefore we never trusted it. Alexa telling me it is done is not needed. Really not looking for an alert, but rather the ability to know the state of the machine when you are standing there wondering whether it has been run or not (we prewash so it can be difficult to tell at times).
Thanks for the tip! Will look out for this it. Pity there aren’t more devices for showing information available. Lots of sensors and light and a few actuators, but on information display there is either phone or big chunky expensive displays or build it yourself solutions. Would for instance love a light that projected text on the floor from the underside of the kitchen cupboards 🙂
all good, i was busy breaking and fixing my set up for the last few hours
😉
i almost deleted 56 devices from my zha cus i was adding z2m into HA to run alongside zha.
Living in Sweden I’m always close to an IKEA and here delivery works like a charm 😉
2 dongles, and i messed up the usb ports which nearly blew up my system, metaphorically
quite lucky then, wish i was closer cus i likely would have saved a bit of money and perhaps gotten better hardware. i mean, i could go, but lazyness always gets the best of me. 2+ hours for a sensor and me physically having to go or 2 days amazon nd i do nothing but tap and tap and pay.
(me in 5 years wondering why i can't fit through my front door to leave)...
LOL! I honestly wouldn't have bothered going 2+ hours to IKEA either. But I gotta say they provide som cheap stuff; even compared to Aqara and other chinese brands.
Glad you didn't. Pairing up 56 devices again does not sound like a lot of value add 😄
Hey all, I just install HA OS on an old 2010 macmini that I upgraded to an SSD. It has 8 gigs of RAM, do you think I should upgrade to 16?
I wouldn't unless you find that you need it, 8 is a lot already for just HA alone.
i was giving it a bit more thought, and i believe the human factor will still, no matter what you do, get in the way of an accurate reading (Status)
unless the rule is that the dishwasher must be unloaded if opened by who ever in the house, if open and closed multiple time (airing out, grabbing 1 or 2 things, etc.) you will still end up opening it once and questioning whether what's in there is clean or dirty. The sign, button, or note are all ways for the person to say "yes its empty and now filled with dirty stuff.
i cant, for the life of me, think of a way this could work.
ever since updating my inovellis (red dimmer) to latest firmware (1.57 - which i think is not new at this point) the lights flicker
I'm struggling to find something:. I have an INMP441 microphone and it runs on an i2s protocol, and a Seeed Xiao esp32-S3, which I know handles i2s, but I cannot figure out what pins to use. The documentation is all over the map.
Is there a way to connect a wifi wall switch so that it always gives power to the light and clicking on the physical switch only turns it's status to on/off?
The expected result: I can switch a smart lightbulb from HA + using the physical switch => both just turn on/off the lightbulb by the signal, not by cutting the power on/off.
Or does the smart switch really needs to have some kind of built in function for that?
It's possible to just bypass the switch entirely such that the light bulb is just hardwired into mains voltage, and the switch itself has no load.
I've heard some switches might not like being completely unloaded though, so review the manual for your particular item to make sure it doesn't require some kind of minimum load.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0728G8XVK ... low tech dishwasher indicator. it works very reliably.
i just realized my govee bulb is not suporteed on HA. and my new nanoleaf matter bulb is bluetooth only. UGHHH
Which bulb and outletswitch is most supported. I would love to build in some notifcations to my family with it.
Looking for a relais with energy meter without neutral wire. I found the sonoff, but I don't think here is a energy meter in it. Does someone got a Good alternative for the shelly 1l? https://amzn.eu/d/j57ke5k
I'm looking for new smart plugs, current favorites are Refoss P11 and Athom v3 plugs.
The Refoss are a bit cheaper (~40€ vs 55-60€), but the Athom uses ESP32 instead of ESP8266 (one advantage I know of: WPA3 support).
Does anyone have some experience with these plugs and can recommend one over the other?
Hi. You may be right. Still gonna try as I think it might just work. The status change to clean will likely be precise. Also, there is no way to empty the machine without opening it fully (the lower drawer cannot be rolled out and accessed unless the door is at a 90 degree angle). Hence, the only way to get an incorrect status is if we fully open the machine for a longer time than the set limit (I'm thinking 2 min) without picking out the clean dishes. This actually happens very rarely in our home and in the worst case it would cause us to re-run the machine. Still a significant improvement over the current situation where I often get home and have no idea whether the machine has been run or not and end up re-running it to be on the safe side 🙂
@modern moss with whatever you end up with keep me posted. Seems to be a habit that we wash clean dishes as well. We can easily say "well ill just remember" but that rarely ever happens...
Hello... as i am curious and am just learning about HAKit and that I could in theory make my own native and personalized dashboard as an iPad app (i am an iOS developer... not android...). Sounds cool. But what comes to my mind is, if an iPad will ever make a cool hang-on-the-wall-dashboad? What I'd like is my iPad to wake up automatically when i approach it and turn off when there is nobody there. And when waking up, it would need to be in my app directly. Is that even possible? I know Android tablets can do that and I've also seen some hacks with iPads and accessability assistance. It that still working? And... is it working reliable?
Have any of you ordered the SmartKnob from Seedlabs?
I have some motion sensor controlled lights that use these https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Building-Automation-UVPP-Low-Voltage/dp/B003DSHMKW to power the 24vdc sensors and trigger the 120vac lights. Is anyone aware of a 'smart' replacement? I looked at shelly and some zooz zwave stuff but im not sure about the 24v power part of it.
That would depend on what is 24v about it
In case of the Shelly and probably other gear there is no non input voltage output
hi all, i bought a 3 pack of the linknlink "presence" sensors about a month ago and got them about a week and a half ago. I have had nothing but false detections and in my opinion, one of the worst products I've ever used. However, I'm not ruling out human error just yet. So far I've moved the devices about 10-15 times into difference positions. I've increased and decreased the sensitivity levels from the app, and overall spent far too long testing and retesting moving them and testing again and so on. I got a partial refund from the company and they said to keep them. Anyone have these that ran into issues first on and now they are the holy grail? Or have you thrown them in the trash?
Hey does anyone happen to know a board that can convert an external microphone like an electret mic to work with ESPHome? I can't seem to find any working option other than the INMP441 but that doesn't let you use your own mic.
nanoleaf matter bulbs require a thread border router, but (with up to date firmware) they work great if you have one of those. if you don't want to get a device which can talk thread or zigbee, and don't want bluetooth, you have to stick to wifi bulbs. There's some third party integrations/add-ons for the Govee bulbs, tho it might have to use cloud control. If you want something that home assistant includes an integration for and supports local control, maybe try WiZ or TP-Link Kasa?
there's also a few matter bulbs out there using wifi which would work fine with home assistant.
Who buoys these thread border router with matter.
I don’t mind getting one that is HA compliant and will set me up for matter devices for good moving forward
@cyan lichen once you get the matter router the other matter devices will create a mesh I assume ? I got the 3 bulb Nanoleaf pack and was going to deploy them on the top floor and basement…
It's a Thread border router; "Matter" supports working over multiple different technologies. It can run over Wifi, or it can use the low-bandwidth mesh networking technology Thread.
In order for home assistant to talk to devices using thread, there has to be a connection between your lan and the thread network. that's what a thread border router does.
thread is a mesh network, but it's a very low power network. it is likely to have problems if you have devices spaced widely apart
the solution to that is usually "get more devices" - you can either get another thread border router to talk to the far away devices, or have more thread devices in-between to do mesh routing.
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/thread#about-thread-border-routers goes over this with more details
Anyone got suggestions on cheap energy usage sensors that'll work with HA? Specifically looking at hardwired or clamp around solutions as I'll be monitoring commercial based connections
16a, 32a single phase, 3 phase upto 100a
shelly ones work nicely
the clamp on ones probably can do up to 120A depending on the version you get
I've seen the shelly ones & they look pretty promising, seem to be the goto for energy monitoring stuff. Only issue then is price. Potentially looking at upto 40 points being monitored
reliability tends to cost
i forgot what its called but there are ones that do a lot more channels which commonly gets mentioned here
or the alternative alternative would be to diy something with esphome
DIY may actually be the better way.....
the other one i couldnt remember was the emporia vue which does up to 16 cirquits
The place is now a large multiuse nightclub/show style place, converted from an old steel works. Most of the power in the place is from the old steel works, so it's old as hell, mostly obsolete fuse boxes. That generates an issue hooking some bits in as I'd have to replace the fuse box.
any good home assistant remotes for controlling my home theater supporting HAS (so calling scripts etc)
It's the second time I'm trying to install my assistant, but it's the first time I'm doing it directly on a mini PC. The installation goes fine, but when it comes to booting up, it doesn't generate any IP address and shows an error message saying it wasn't installed properly when accessing the default address. How can I fix this?
Please run ha network info.
How would i setup something home assistant Maybe a script or something that would evaluate to true if Sensor.Temp.A was Higher then Sensor.Temp.B?
would that be a script or Maybe a template sensor?
Template binary sensor for sure
something like
binary_sensor:
- platform: template
sensors:
outdoor_warmer_than_indoor:
friendly_name: "Outdoor Warmer Than Indoor"
device_class: heat
value_template: >-
{{ states('sensor.lumi_lumi_weather_temperature_3') | float >
states('sensor.lumi_lumi_sensor_magnet_aq2_device_temperature') | float }}
That's the old format, so ideally you'd use something like
template:
- binary_sensor:
- name: Whatever you want
state: "{{ states('sensor.lumi_lumi_weather_temperature_3') | float(0) > states('sensor.lumi_lumi_sensor_magnet_aq2_device_temperature') | float(0) }}"
You can also add simple template binary sensors via the ui (on the helper screen) if you prefer, it'll have a field for you to write the template in.
Trying to figure out the best approach for automating my irrigation water. I'll have a 2in poly pipe that I'm starting with, and I'll probably tee it off into a bunch of sprinklers or other outlets.
I haven't really been able to find a non -crazy expensive consumer someone yet, and I'm not entirely sure how to start on the "make your own" path just yet. Looking for suggestions if anyone has tried to solve this
Anyone use Ecowitt and have zero data but can see the battery levels of all your devices?
hi,
i am trying to display the temp of a r-pi in home assistant and i follow a tutorial.
now i have this
sensor:
- platform: command_line
name: Proxmox CPU Temp
command: "ssh (my_username)@(my_ip) 'cat /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp'"
unit_of_measurement: "°C"
value_template: "{{ value | multiply(0.001) }}"
in configurasion in yaml but after the restart i disnt see the sensor in entities
any help?
Try that command in a terminal first: #node-red-archived message
is working
it returns me : 35000
follow the documentation: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/command_line/
and this is an #integrations-archived question
ok thanks
hello!
Does anyone have a recommendation for an IR blaster for Home Assistant? I'm familiar with Broadlink but am curious if there's better ones out there
any recommendations for a smart lock that is ultra minimal? ideally finger print only? i was thinking zigbee but i'm open it other protocols. ideally something that doesn't need internet to some propreitary app obviously
actually maybe better question do smart deadbolts exist? i don't need a key visible on the exterior, just something to actuate a deadbolt from the inside
I want to make a small HA control panel using esp32 or an rpi zero. Anyone have any project suggestions to make one at a reasonable price. If possible id like some kind of touch screen or eInk display. 7" or under aside display
Zwave owns the lock department. My fingerprint Yale works well.
Smart part is interchange too. For different protocols
is it fingerprint only or does it have a handle/keypad/etc as well?
Keypad, no key
Level lock exists.
But that might not fit your bill either. Id strongly suggest zwave regardless.
i saw level lock but it appears to be homekit
level lock actually seems to be the closest i've found so far tbh. it is just a smart deadbolt. it looks like i might be able to install that without the external keyhole which would be great
If you are iPhone user, supports home key I think
yea i dont have any apple devices
was planning to do zigbee everything for the house
Locks, strongly suggest zwave. Bluetooth alone is eh. Wifi is well, wifi
Just way more options zwave too. One of those things.
gotcha okay i'll take a look
are there any smart locks that work with mortise locks but are local only (no app setup required)?
Hi everyone, I am looking to start with home assistant.
I have a budget and I am already having my own victories with the camera so far.
I am looking to buy a lot of devices, presence detectors, air quality sensors, temperature sensors, door and windows sensor, curtain motorization and so on.
I am looking to the best devices in term of power consumption. So anything that will consume the lowest possible, even if I have to pay more to get them. Anyone can adivise me a brand for that?
Zigbee is generally a good bet since it's a low power protocol - and most sensors will be battery powered
There are many #zigbee-archived brands. That channel can advise about specific devices, if you tell them the country you're in.
I am in Italy
So tell them, over there, when asking about specific devices - eg bulbs, leak sensors, etc
thank you, will do that 🫡
Hey all. I'm looking for a house doors magically unlock for family members experience. Is the anything that is "there" yet. Don't want to have to fish out a phone for nfc.
I'm located in the US and would like to be < $500 per door
The issue mostly would be accurately and reliably detecting a family member but only when trying to enter. Opening a door is not too difficult then
Both may not be very directional
You don't really want the door to open if someone is simply close to the door without the intent to enter or exit
Could see some possibilities with cameras and AI detections but that may severely lack in certain situations
Our doors each have 15ft or so from any place you might be except the laundry and that is by thr carport so thst one can stay unlocked when the garage door is down
I don't want them to actually open just unlock
In that case something with Bluetooth, RFID or other presence sensors probably could work just fine
That's likely a diy project tho to some extent
I do think a "human is or was here" alert and declining to unlock would be very desirable but think we are likely a few years out? We already have a dozen or so cameras - my wife handles those but they are battery powered amazon-house-brand things
Link-up time sufficient on recent phones? All our phones are current but the 7yr old doesn't have one yet but likely will soon
The battery powered aspect probably will limit you reusing them for this, if they don't already have the capability to detect and alert that is
just had a really weird issue with ZBDongle-E .. it drops out and errors occasionally, fine whatever.. i have replugged it once or twice and that sorts it out
but now its completely forgotten its manufacturer string and has renamed its product from "SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus V2" to "USB Single Serial", and its serial number has changed
Hi all, I'm looking for ZigBee enabled relay PCB with integration for a physical switch (rocker switch). Any thoughts?
You could probably simply use an ordinary light switch one like the Sonoff zbmini or similar ones
Wondering if there’s an alternative to the hue dimmer switches (battery) that work well.
Budget is like $30 USD
US based
Zigbee or z-wave is ok
any reason you don't want the Hue ones if your budget is 30 USD (which is a little more than what they cost)?
Does it do dimming?
I’ve got some hue ones. Having funky connectivity issues with them, so just thinking about alternatives
ah weird
Depends on what you mean exactly by "do dimming" I guess. I believe it supports press and hold events.
But it doesn't electrically "do" anything but send zwave messages. It's up to you and HA to effect that into some specific light behavior.
That’s what I meant. Thanks for reading my mind 😂
I was looking at the IKEA ones too
Yeah, I’m not sure what’s up. One of them seems to take forever when you press a button for stuff to happen. I’ve rebooted the hub, changed the zigbee channel, reset and readded it, still does the same thing. I’ve got hue plugs nearby, still nothing
really weird. low battery, maybe?
Hue App says the battery is full
fwiw, i've got a bunch of ikea remotes and I've mostly been happy with them, but i don't think they'd work with the hue bridge (I'm using directly with home assistant via zha)
Oh I was thinking of eliminating hue out of my place 😅
Weird that hue gives you trouble, it's generally known as the solution that works
Yeah… it worked great for me for like 4 years and now it’s gone wonky. In general it was always stable.
Maybe it could be an issue with the coordinator, something causing interference or the device going bad
Coordinator in this case being the hue hub?
Could be, tho this may be more common on other party ones
I wouldn't bet my money on that
Yeah… I was thinking interference as the motion sensor stopped working too. Stuck on detected, tried all the normal stuff (reset, etc). Still stuck on detected, even with fresh batteries. Took it and stood right near the hub and it still didn’t do the things
Im also looking for something to control low voltage too
That may depend on the voltage ratings of those switches. Shelly ones can do that but they aren't zigbee
Usually the switching voltage cannot be different from the switched one
I'm mucking about with a zhaquirk restarting takes awhile. I'm running HA on an pi4 with a usb m.2. if I upgraded the hardware to a nuc with Intel Alder Lake-N100 and 256GB PCIe X1 SSD(800MB/s) drive how much difference would it make in reload time?
Difficult to say what you consider to be reload time
It's probably a lot faster in certain areas while not faster at all in others
I assume STT would be much faster (unrelated to reload times)
Yes that is likely
Is there a good HA-capable device that can be used as an on-demand IR blaster/remote control?
e.g., if I just want it to be able to send an IR remote signal within an automation/scheduled event?
there are a bunch that work well with HA... i had an old Logitech harmony one laying around that i started to use. that said IR can be pretty unreliable... It misses some times and then stuff gets messed up
^ I saw a cool project a while back. Expensive though: https://www.unfoldedcircle.com/
Works locally with Home Assistant
@gloomy spoke I'm trying to figure out control for a Toto Washlet remotely 🙂
Most of the "front side" remote actions are simple and easily recordable/replayable from something like a Flipper. But the buttons on the back side of the remote (water/seat temp settings, etc) seem to send an IR pulse but also maintain an internal state of some sort, IDK
trying to figure it out
I suggest not activating the bidet functionality unless you're already physically there
Ideally would be great to be able to control seat heat from an automation that is more granular than the built-in energy saver modes
alol, it won't activate if there's no pressure on the seat sensor 🙂
although that would be fun to override and surprise someone who just stepped out of the shower
I've got one. All programmed up for my lights, media and blinds. I never use it. Most things are automated. For things that aren't: I prefer my media keyboard in my cinema and the PC next to my recliner in the lounge. iPad in the bedroom. Guests find it handy though.
I saw one the other day which was similar but bent in the middle and still in development. No idea how it compares price-wise, but I'm holding on to my Harmony for dear life. Tried the Sofabaton X1 and it's terrible. They promised a local API. What they gave us was not only cloud-only, but COMPLETELY unsecured.
are there any smart locks that work with mortise locks but are local only (no app setup required)?
Sort of. I used a cheap electric strike plate connected to a basic zigbee relay board.
Something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191106659972
Make sure to get a fail-closed one, not fail-open.
Mine is on a night-latch style lock (see pic) but the plate can also be mounted in the door frame if used with a mortice lock.
(wouldn't work if the lock is deadbolted though, only if the door can be also be locked via the latch only)
Hi there, I'm looking for a pool thermometer that works with HA. I saw a number of DIYs, but can someone recommend an off-the-shelf product?
Is the smart things multipurpose contact sensor the only sensor that does vibration and contact?
Looking at trying to do some washer and dryer notifications/ automations.
I'm looking for a basic thermostat that works well with HA. Just temperature setting and temperature sensor (I'm in the Netherlands). Anyone got any advice? I'm using a rooted Toon right now that's just not reliable.
I am looking for a smart lock that will automatically unlock when i get near the front door, and automatically lock when i leave. I have no other eco system for "smart home assistants" anymore as i found them kinda dumb, so it needs to be a standalone item. It needs to have really good battery life, as i want to eliminate the need to have a physical key all together
Is there a good candidate for this? if so please let me know.
Probably not
The battery life is primarily a function based on how easy your door locking system is to operate. There is fairly little that magically detects your presence especially in lock form as there are major challenges involves that tend to require not trivial hardware
Damn, that's really disappointing. I remember looking into smartlocksin 2019-2020 and found people to recommend the August locks, and today, 2024, thats still the top recommendation on google, maybe a slighly never model, but same form factor and same downsides it seems. I really thought 4 years would make these work properly
You could opt for a less locking and more latching style one like it gets used for businesses (magnetic), those tend to also be fully wired
the issue with most smart locks is that they are rather insecure solutions which leads to not many people using them and there being no large development because of the lack of interest
Ah that makes sense, sucks is all
I live for the day when the only thing i need in my pockets is my phone
I left my wallet 3 years ago, but my keys still haunt my pockets
The credit card in disguise;D
Yeah google pay has worked with 0 issues for 3-4 years now, and i love not having a wallet
A subscription to unlock your door which you pay every time you try to enter id better not give em ideas
If money isn't an issue and the environment allows such installation you may want to look into commercial access systems
They tend to offer RFID/NFC compatible points
Yeah, that seems like a lot of work for little gain, it wouldnt allow me to invite friends whose phone could also unluck my door, or self lock after x seconds, or unlock once my car hits the garage
There is plenty of possibilities in digital access management
The ubiquity access solution could be an example of that, tho I haven't used it and can't make any statements about how good or easy that would work for you
While it might be the best / only solution, it seems a bit overkill for a single frontdoor lock
There is probably plenty you could try to diy. or you decide it's fine to have less features/the ones available will work
But yea it's not a lot of easy options
if it needs to constantly check if you are nearby to unlock/lock, its not going to have good battery life. Maybe if you rig up some wireless charging pad or pogo pin system to keep the smart lock topped up
Best i've found currently is probably going to be a homekit enabled smartlock and apple watch as a replacement for your keys if you are already using the iOS ecosystem
if its polling to see if you're nearby it creates vulnerabilities similar to keyless car fobs
Im all android, no smartwatch
phone dies/lost
so if you lose phone you've now lost your phone, wallet, and keys
great
Witness protection it is
yeah id have a key somewhere on the property that i can unlock the deadbolt with, i dont want the deadbolt replaced
ah the good ol hide your spare key under a rock
yep im perfectly fine with that as security
my car also has a keyless fob that i love
idc if its a few % less securre
i mean its not impossible but if you want your phone to act as a key its going to sap away battery life
its also slower
id want an off the shelf product tho, i dont want to tinker something myself
I mean... HA with location for your phone (eg the official app) and a smart lock it can control could 100% do that, particularly if you're on Android
that works too
HA?
Home Assistant
home assistant
You know ... the server you're in 😉
lol
As in a google home?
it does mean having it running in the background though which does use battery
You found this server and don't even know what it's for ... 🤣
not sure if there are possibilities for false triggerings of where it just unlocks your door because you restarted your phone
Not if you write the automation correctly
no i joined off the reddit, googling smart locks
haven't fully tested, but i think tasker automations does use less battery than HA for location in the background
"home assistant" is so vague it could refer to anything
That's why the site is linked from #rules
And many other channels
If you'd actually read the rules when you joined you'd have known more 😉
literally the first result that shows up on google
i genuinly did, i just thought https://www.home-assistant.io/ was some app or something for google home
i didnt read the wiki
Well, it can work with GHome, but it's not for GHome
could be a solution if it doesnt require too much setup. When i setup plex and jellyfin on my server which was advertised as "just working easy" and in reality had to be debugged daily, then no thanks
there is the aquara deadbolts, but those are mortise locks which most likely means you'll have to replace your entire door depending on where you are located
Im european
Nuki locks are worth a look
If theyre secure enough then it could be a decent alternative
i mean your hand is already on the handle and fingerprint reading is faster than waiting for your phone to connect
ive just seen a lot of shitty fingerprint locks (non frontdoor locks)
and am weary of those
your best bet at this point is just buy any Google Assistant compatible smart lock and use when you arrive/leave location as your automation trigger
I rarely use this and not sure what sort of conditions it could falsely trigger and just unlock your front door for anyone
you arrive home, it triggers, checks again later when you are already home, unlocks your door again
more hassle than it's worth so I would just get something that works with a NFC fob/card/smartwatch
i had a google home and had those setup for turning the lights on and off, and it did so randomly throughout the day
Which is why i sold my google homes, they were atrocious
I use tasker to run my automations for leave/arrive
works fine for me, but its probably more setup than its worth for you
Works with European locks/doors, supports fingerprint unlock, or you can use your phone, or a fob
There is the Aquara A100, best lock i see currently as far as smart doorlocks go, has NFC fob, fingerprint, and homekit as options for unlocking
Also integrates with HA
Does these work completly independent, or based on a smarthome hub?
something tells me they aren't currently using HA or interested in setting it up
I do have a raspberry pi, and if its easy and reliable i might, but to my experience, no linux setup ever is
i mean even if the door auto unlocks you still need one hand to turn the handle
You'd be wrong 😉
fingerprint sensor right on the handle
Completely separate if that's what you want
I don't mind a fingerprint sensor, if it works and is as secure as a normal lock
The Pi is a really bad benchmark for Linux stability... the Pi is a toy
I use linux for work, and the OS is so damn fragile
I've run Linux systems that have been 100% stable for years, but the Pi is sub-par hardware and will always be a problem
thats linux gui tho
Pi is ok for the OS, hardware is underpowered
most issues i've had is usually software/drivers
linux isn't exactly the OS for people that are used to having safety nets preventing them from breaking stuff like with Windows or MacOS
i've run my homelab on linux for years, haven't had any issues
I've run Linux for business critical servers and never had a problem
Well, other than those I caused myself 😄
Linux server is a lot better than gui, but linux software, especially open sourced ones, are very hit and miss, even the hits are very prone to stupid errors
nothing more fun than taking out a system on a friday
You've had some bad luck, or some overly high expectations... there's lots of very solid open source software out there - some of which underpins many commercial offerings you use every day
Hell, before MS finally moved it to Windows Hotmail ran on open source
Actually ran better there than on Windows
i mean if you use iOS and don't mind the walled garden, the software and hardware integration is very good
comes at a cost
Im not sure if this is a good or bad sign, but any of the retailers in my entire country who was supposed to sell the agara a100 doesnt have it on their websites
maybe check for the other models
samsung also does have door locks, not sure how well those work with proximity unlock
i dont even believe you can buy the agara a100 in europe 😄
i've seen people get them in Canada and we don't even use mortise locks here
Currently, the A100 Smart Lock is available in China, Singapore, and Malaysia.
While there are plans to expand distribution, there are no plans at this time to release the lock in the EU or US.
the magic of aliexpress lol
Yeah... Im not super fond of the idea of having my home security in the hands of aliexpress
aliexpress is just the platform for sellers to sell stuff, same as amazon, ebay, etc
I am aware, but i just trust amazon more than aliexpress. id also never use ebay
im probably at 1200+ orders on aliexpress, never had any issue
what in the world are you buying that often on aliexpress?
i dont have 1500 online orders.. probably ever
when you can buy it on ali for $0.80 and it costs $15 on amazon for the exact same thing, you'll quickly realize amazon isn't worth it
the a100 doesnt seems to have proximity unlocking, but fingerprint might be a good alternative
because proximity unlocking isn't a good idea lol
well if youre in my country it isnt, any chinese imports have like 25$ import charge
flat fee, and like 80% purchase price in import VAT
im pretty sure thats already established but if you still want to do it, buy any smart lock and setup geofencing
whether or not its reliable is going to be up to whatever rules you put so it doesn't somehow automatically unlock your door at 4am
grab a giant antenna, boost the signal from your phone and now it looks like your close enough, door auto unlocks
Home Assistant installed on an Intel NUC 11 i5 512 GB flash and connected on a 2.5GB network port. Backups uploading to Dropbox were slow as well as nabu.casa connection has gotten painfully slow and tried to copy off a backup locally to see why it's 10GB, connected to the local web address as well as SMB on the same subnet and the download speed is 700kbps to 2MBs for either. Restarted the NUC and isn't any better. Any ideas on why it's dialup speed over a 2.5GB port?
tried SFTP?
Yes, 250kbps
Could try iperf. What ip are you connecting to? What device do you use to connect to it? How is it connected to the network?
I tested from a few machines, windows (10GB), debian(25GB), macbook (wifi-7) speed doesn't change. HA is ethernet 2.5GB
Run apk add iperf3 in the SSH addon, then start a iperf3 server on one of your devices and run a test to it.
Please also share ha network info and ip a.
@shell tide I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
I'm not sure you could reach it. Hence the suggestion to start the server on the other side. I'm mobile so my researching ability is hampered quite a bit.
grep -R . /sys/class/net/*/speed should tell you the NIC speed.
@shell tide I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
It's 2500 and all the virtuals are 10,000
Seems like it negotiated 2.5G fine. Just a variable that can be excluded.
@shell tide I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
iperf seems to check out at the negotiated nic speed
Hmm.
writing to a NAS connected at 25GB with Samba Backup is also less that 2-3 MBs
A 11GB backup file should take less than 30 seconds
downloading from the web interface is the same
You could try to use curl to push something directly to the NAS via SMB/SFTP/SCP via the SSH addon's CLI.
Maybe you could also check some system stats while downloading with the glances addon.
to summarize. IPERF from host->nas works at line rate. but perf from docker container to NAS (or anywhere else) does not?
Basically yes
are you having MTU issues on docker bridging?
is this a syno nas with a 10gbe port?
Qnap is connected via 25GB
you see the same "relative" perf issues when using the internet, which is faster than 750kbps
hm weird, syno had an issue with virtual routing which completely killed the upload
found your "ip a" output, no obvious mtu issue
The dropback Add-On was also taking forever, was hitting 40MBs
9000 on the switch and NAS
it's 1500 on the primary ethernets and docker virt bridges in your above paste (which woudn't cause issues with the nas)
Correct
so we've isolated to something within docker->host networking due to the iperf working
I would agree with that based on what I am seeing
and I assume you've rebooted (ie, tried turning it off and on again)
Yes, complete shutdown and power up
any HA/HACS plugins that would potentially be dropping things, shifting to ipv6, etc?
Not sure on that, can IPv6 be disabled on HA?
Is the docker layer in Home Assistant Core, just saw an update drop?
just trying to remove variables
are you doing any v6 in the house?
network capture wireshark/tcpdump between HA and NAS while trying to do a copy may show something obivious (like a million retransmissions, or something similar)
no IPv6
yeah ok, i'm going down the "wild/random checkboxes"
only other thing would be if there is some weird mac address collision?
so it's constantly fighting for an ip address or similar, any smart filters on the switches?
I disabled all of the fw and switch filters yesterday, so pretty much wide open. I might enable them again and re-run IPERF to rule them out
HA is setup on a dhcp reservation on Unifi network gear.
yah, so unifi will report duplicate ip addrs
you are running two networks 10/23 and 172/23, what's your routing for that
you're running two networks on same layer2 (which is fine) no vlans?
docker uses the 172 for its virtual networking
You could boot a live ubuntu to single out if it's HAOS related or not. Might make testing easier too.
IPERF results kind of speak to the server hardware and network being ok
You'd also have a GUI to check wireshark and stuff like that.
That hardware is the biggest overkill/waste just running HAOS I've ever seen btw 😄
I will tackle that tomorrow if time permits
I was what I had at the time
wattage is surprising low for what it is.
At least compared to the network, storage, and virtual stacks 🤔
Typically 13-15 watts
tshark works fine, and tcpdump also for cli
I'd have virtualized HAOS (and many other things) on such a machine. I actually didn't think of tshark or tcpdump and I'm a big fan of the CLI and TUIs.
Not sure if being in a docker container makes it harder though. The packages for alpine are conveniently named tshark and tcpdump if you want to try.
You can use alpine's file search utility to find the package that contains a specific binary: https://pkgs.alpinelinux.org/contents
I started there but struggled with Z-Wave USB dongle and vSphere pass through and couldn't find something network attached.
I use Proxmox VE and USB passthrough is extremely painless. I never used vSphere so I can't compare.
Might tool around with Proxmox and try to move from the vSAN to Proxmox. Does Proxmox do virtualized storage between cluster nodes?
Depends what you mean. For truly shared storage there's mostly CEPH: https://pve.proxmox.com/wiki/Storage
you aren't going to get High-Availability of the usb ports
but storage can be mapped to ZFS volumes on local system of a cluster, or a SAN
Still better than the single point of failure today.
if you are running a zigbee stick, you have a single point of failure
if you are running it off a SAN, that's a single point of failure, depending on your storage setup
ability to recover rapidly is more important
For ZigBee there's a few Ethernet/PoE coordinators available. Not sure about Z-Wave.
This might be what you were asking for earlier: https://pve.proxmox.com/wiki/Hyper-converged_Infrastructure
still a single point of failure, just not HA anymore 🙂
(obviously the goal would be migrate your single point to the least-complex item, to reduce the chances of failure)
I have the Tubes Zigbee and it works great. Need to USB pass through Z-Wave and Insteon PLM.
Perhaps not for much longer, for the Z-Wave. Tubes has a product for you there too: https://tubeszb.com/product/z-wave-poe-kit/
Ordered one of each and some radios to test@with.
Hi,
I am looking for a mini pc for home assistant setup.
I am getting good reviews on the GMKTec mini PC
Is it worth for 254NZD after discount for 8gb RAM 512GB SSD and Intel Alder Lake N100?
Thank you,
Gokul
anyone know of a esp32 or similar device variant of something like this? something that just plugs into the outlet to provide motion or whatever sensor and a diffused night light?
https://www.amazon.com/THIRDREALITY-Multi-Function-Illumination-Adjustable-Brightness/dp/B0C9LNXYLL
does this work with HA?
Does anyone know some good GU10 zigbee lights (which have optionally zigbee repeater functionality as well) (EU - Belgium)
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Anything other than Sengled will be a repeater
Hi, this is a weird one but a couple of weeks ago I was asking if you could use a small magnet to trick open the sensor in ha, and we weren't sure and I said I'd test and get back to you
I just tested and it 100% works - you can have the big part somewhere and instead of the small part of the door sensor, you can use a magnet to "open" the sensor
Hey there, not weird at all! Thanks for letting me know too 🙂
Nw! I'm just glad it worked! Now to figure out how to do stuff with that!
Hey guys, how do I make a simple on/off switch like this smart? It just has some led garagelighting on there.
Connect a switch module to it
https://www.vesternet.com/products/aqara-single-switch-module-t1-with-neutral or anything similar
Hey there @winged knoll been a while
You get neutral and no-neutral options
hey thanks for that man! i have to check that out, do you have experience with this kind of hardware?
I've used them before, none currently installed but there's one on my desk waiting for a free day
Im not that skilled with electical circuits, allthough ive rewired most of my house, its worth a try i gues
It's not that hard, mostly, as long as you follow instructions and turn off the power before working on things
I've rewired many a thing in the past and only got into trouble when things were still powered
Hah, i mostly commando that...i hate powering off
Bad SFP28 DAC cable on the uplink to the Agg switches, swapped it out to a SFP28 optic and cable and can max out the 2.5GB on HA! iperf results were from another machine on the same switch and vlan. Nabu/Casa connection is also snappy again. It showed OK in the GUI and 25GB uplink, but must have been port flapping. Thanks for your help!
Bad SFP28 DAC cable on the uplink to the Agg switches, swapped it out to a SFP28 optic and cable and can max out the 2.5GB on HA! iperf results were from another machine on the same switch and vlan. Nabu/Casa connection is also snappy again. It showed OK in the GUI and 25GB uplink, but must have been port flapping. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for the update.
That sounds like fun to debug
Were you running 2.5 into a 10gig port? No all SFP's deal with that properly. DAC may not either. I have Copper 10gig sfp running 2.5 into my internet uplink without issues, but just got lucky (I originally bought it when my uplink was 10gig copper).
Hi, I am new to this.
I have browsed HAOS topics and Zigbee2MQTT, but I have not found what I am looking for (at least not in the language I understand).
I have a problem that I loose my zigbee China rgbw controller and Lidl sensor and one or two lamps. One day they are not on the device list. Not at the same time.
In the logs I do not see anything -searched for disconnected, removed. But nothing.
I have noticed that it could coincide with HAOS updates (core, os). As long as I do not update everything seems to work.
Maybe a HAOS restart as it also happens at the same time.
Thanks, I did not notice the chat group. I will continue there 🫣
2 home automation system nextvto each other
Is it possible to run a development HA and an operation HA system next to each other.?
.
Sure. Just don’t rely on mdns. You can probably turn off the dev one
Lyricnz , thanks for your response. What is mdns?
The magic that allows http://homeassistant.local:8123/ to work
I understand thans both of you
Hey! hey does anyone know a smart valve sensor that has a high water pressure rating. I bought one but it was limiting my water supply to the point I had to send it back. I use zigbee so that would be ideal
a valve sensor?
Hello! To start a 'fresh' installation... it's RPI 4 of 4/8GB a good choice?
Please don't crosspost
I got a tuya smart plug with energy monitor. The plug is visible in HA, only the energy monitor is not found. Is there I way I can make this work?
How do you have it connected? ZHA? Z2M? Tuya integration? Also, do you know what model the plug is?
Through the Tuya integration, model: WOOX R6113 Smart Plug
Not really much that can be done with that in terms of quirks or anything. You'll need to open an issue on github: https://github.com/home-assistant/core/issues and label it with the integration:tuya tag.
Re-posting from #general-archived - Does anyone know of a smoke alarm that can be connected (I.E. zigbee/zwave) but also inter-connect? I'd like them all to go of if 1 goes off even if HA is down. If there's one where I can trigger the siren from HA, then I could make that as an automation, but would like the alarms to do it on their own.
I saw some discussion on this in Feb. I'm coming into a small business building that doesn't really have anything and wired isn't really an option given the cinderblock. I'd be fine w/alarms that just talk to eachother if I could notify HA about that somehow
Turns out I am an idiot and the wattage, volt and current sensors where hidden 😔😶
Happens to the best of us... lol
anyone have any candellabra bulbs that work with HA? my vent hood uses candellabra style bulbs and im trying to find some that will work with HA, so that i can have them turn on when I turn on my undercabinet lighting
Depending on where in the world you are, Wiz makes color changing WiFi candellabra bulbs that are pretty cheap and there's a direct integration with HA. If you want to spend a bit more, Hue also has them as well (ZHA/Z2M needed). I have a couple of the Wiz bulbs and they are fantastic.
https://www.wizconnected.com/en-us/p/modern-bulb-candle-40w-b12-e12/046677603526
The WiZ LED full color candle-shape bulb brings smart lighting for your daily living. Perfect for any decorative fixtures with E14 medium base. Create the ambience of your choice with 16 million colors as well as warm to cool white light. You can set schedules to turn lights on and off according to your daily or weekly routines, control with you...
nice. same thing right?
actually i dont see that those say e12
Yup, LOOKS like the same thing... BUT... if you're in the US, check Walmart. For some reason they carry the full line of Wiz bulbs cheaper than even Amazon.
Hold on, I'll throw up a link.
Or I won't... yeah, doesn't look like they have the E-12.
The other place to get Wiz bulbs in a brick and mortar is Home Depot.
And should anyone ask if I actually like the Wiz bulbs... lol
Bah... that sucks. Yeah, sounds good.
dumb question... will i able to set the dimmness on them etc... ?
Yup. Dimming and colors and white temp as well.
ok cool
yea i need 3000k and will want to fiddle with dimming to match the undercab lighting
Seriously, for the price, they are actually really good bulbs.
I typically run mine between 2700-3000 myself. But, I also use the effects a lot as well. For one of my automations, I flip a couple of the bulbs into "party" mode and they color shift without having to do anything fancy in the automation. Bonus in my mind. 🙂
working on the left side undercab lighting. but got worried itd look weird if i didnt run the undercab lighting under the vent hood. but thatd be considerably more work and less clean
Oh yeah, I get what you're saying... The right side looks clean though!
so hopefully using the wiz bulbs in the hood will get me what im wanting
I think you'll be happy with them. I used to be all zigbee for my bulbs until I found them and I haven't gone back since. I was up to around 60 of them, but decided to pare back a few lol
so they are wifi only?
Yup
ok. should be fine. ive got a nice wifi network, on ups's etc...
But, and this is the weird part, they use REALLY good wifi chips. Still only 2.4ghz, but out of all the ones I have/had, only a couple ever dropped off the network.
full unifi etc... with 3 ap's
Oh yeah, you'll be fine. I have Unifi, but even without it, they barely generate any traffic.
SAME
aight i got an led question
i guess my main question is, can i run a 233" run of these led's?
233"? I mean, you could... but I can almost guarantee you'll have to do power injection and a lot of it.
the dumb electrician burried the led control module and power supply in the wall, behind the backsplash, so i cant see what its rated for
lemme grab a pic of the whole area
Given that's 24v LEDs (I'm going to assume SMD 5050s), you'll probably need to power inject about every 5-6 feet? I might be wrong about that though. I've never had a run of 24v more than 12 feet, but I did a single power injection at 6' just to be on the safe side.
(Forgive the mess. i had to clear those counters and throw it all on the bar, + tools and shit for the project at hand)
so somewhere around that red rectangle on the right side is the power supply and such. a wire comes out r ight there, where the strip you see lit up is
then right above where you see the cast iron skillet on the stove, another pair of wires comes out with 24 v.
and thats it. thats the only powered wires i have coming out of the wall
the wire to the right of the sink window has no voltage (and is ethernet?)
and that ethernet cable jumps power over to under the cedar shelf
that make sense?
so basically they wired it up to run that full corner, then loop back into the ethernet to bridge power over to the cedar shelf. and im unsure if i can run a continuous like that far, especially with the tail end being ethernet cable
i guess lemme go try to run it all as one and see what happens
that doesnt look like too much length
you arent sticking bare tape to the underside of the cabinets are you?
Yeah, in thinking about it... 233" of 24v, you should be fine without power injection or maybe power inject at the last 3-4'?
just not sure i really can?
its just plain white, it should be fine without till about 10m length
Yeah, I was reading your message there.
i only have 2 voltage out pairs of wires. the last 3 to 4 feet is the ethernet cable
you dont need to even if you're underpowered you'd probably never notice it
That's kinda what I'm thinking too... may not need injection at all.
ok ill go try it. is ethernet kosher with this?
if you dont use it to carry data, yes
else it should stick to poe standards to avoid connected hw breaking
aight ill give it a w hirl
it's probably builder grade CCA cat 5e or cat6 so i wouldnt try to put too many amps down it
A bit hard to tell from the picture, but that looks very 5e-ish to me, which would make it most likely 24awg.
If it is at least solid copper (definitely would want to confirm that), twisting half the wires together for each makes you approximately a 21awg cable, good for around 4A.
that should be good for around 10m of that strip
yea it ssolid copper
what about for 1 pair, what kinda run can that make?
the ethernet is probably only a few feet max. in to the right side of the window, out to the left side of the window
as in one pair for both pos and negative?
aight. well the c edar shelf is a later project anyways
i cant really recesee the led track like i did in the cabinets. so my plan is to make a custom beer glass/wine glass holder (basically route out some dovetail's in another piece of wood, and tack it into the bottom). then i can hide the led track behind that
Hello!
What you think about this mini-PC to start my setup?
Please don't share affiliate links. But do share information about your setup.
boom
now if we could just avoid using the air fryer as a bread shelf
definitely going to have to double up some pairs of the ethernet for the jump over to the cedar shelves. i couldnt even get the the little connector blocks to bite the ethernet copper. was too thin
Looks like different color temperatures.
under the cabinets?
all the same leds and loop. i think its just that the bread blocks out a chuck of the light from the backsplash
Yeah looks like the under lights are warmer but this seems off-topic for this channel.
looking for zigbee smart plug that is power monitoring. what do ya'll use?
i had bought some KS-501 style smart plugs that didn't advertise any kind of energy metering...
but... there's a bl0937 right there lmao
and the supplied software (which of course i threw away in favour of openbk) didn't support it?
gotta wonder what these smartplug manufacturers are thinking sometimes...
anyone with a Shelly Blu button that knows how to enable hush mode.... it should be available, but no instructions how to? I like th little device but the beep is quite annoying...
You need the Shelly BLE Debug app on your phone to get into the configuration, afaik (now 100% sure, if they already added that to the regular Shelly app yet).
make sure to pull out the toaster when using it or the aluminum channels act as great heatsinks
ask me how i know

Where can I find a replacement light fixture that’s RGB? does such a thing exist?
Any recommendations for a local (no cloud) IR blaster that works with HA?
Broadlink RM4 Pro or the Moes Zigbee blaster are both solid choices.
I am looking for a 12V switch that is wifi enabled. The things I find have an input current of 110-240 and might work on 12V, but I need something with all 12V. Any ideas/reference? Thanks in advance!
Smart thermostat recommendations that also work with Alexa?
For some reason I can't search messages in this channel
Could anyone recommend a RF transmitter? I have a broadlink IR blaster I really like and was thinking of getting the RF one, but thought I'd ask to see what else is out there.
bond bridge?
you can make your own transceiver with esphome too
Oh crap… now I need to find a good power on gpu idle setup for https://llava-vl.github.io… so I can use it to describe objects from my camera snapshots
Broadlink or bond bridge, or you can DIY with an esp32, CC1101, and OpenMQTTGateway. I built one and it's legit.
Dell OptiPlex 7050 SFF
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro (digitally assigned).
CPU: Intel i5-7600.
Memory: 16 GB DDR4.
Storage: 1x 120GB SSD (Windows)…1x 500GB HDD (Storage).
or
Dell Optiplex 7040Micro:
i7-6700T
8gb ram ddr4
128gb ssd nvme
Windows 10 pro
Which one is better?
I'd pick the first unless there's space constraints.
@golden thorn I got another offer for 250$. Is it worth it? The earlier ones were 200 and 230 NZDs
I can't tell you if the price is good for your region. What do you plan to do with it?
hey guys, this is going to be a weird question but is there anything i can integrate into HA that can be used as a sort of frequency detector? so as an example if you played a note on a piano it would tell you what note was played?
Home assistant, media server, automation.
Raspberry pi5 with everything costs 200nzd
I think it will help to scale the cost of hardwares
I recommend virtualizing with a machine like this: #hardware-archived message
I checked GMKtec mini PC but every import of the same hardware with 500 GB would cost nearly 300NZD. New Zealand is a hard place to get something cheaper.
What you linked is perfectly fine. Mini PCs are smaller and can usually idle lower.
Yours can be upgraded (change CPU, for example) and has more space for extensions (Via PCIE, for example). Buy what fits your needs.
I would love a mini pc but I've to import it. The one in the screenshot I can just go and get it.
i'm from australia so know the feeling - you can sometimes get some cheap second hand ones like what you linked but you've got to wait for them to go on sale to make the most of them
The southern hemisphere doesn't exist!
i know right! it's so infuriating! and then if you're trying to find some kind of smart product and people/youtube suggest like 30 different products only to find the only ones available here are philips hue bulbs and that's it! so annoying!
yes. a microphone should do this. then you need a way to analyse the frequencies, i guess a espboard or rbpi
awesome, i'll check it out and see if anyone's put together something that has it all working together! thanks!
Yes, youre right. found it in the issue, sorry I missed your post...https://github.com/home-assistant/core/issues/116245#issuecomment-2080396048
Amazon and eBay are not very promising with the cost of products and shipping. I wonder how Aliexpress and Temu offers free shipping here and they are quite fast too.
Yeah, those could be good options but the issue here (not sure if it's the same there) is that everything that's hard-wired needs to be Australian certified and needs an electrician, which makes it hard buying stuff from overseas unfortunately
That said, for non hard-wired things I've gotten quite a few sensors and stuff off Ali express and it's been good so far!
Anyone got a good tutorial for flashing bulbs with custom firmware so I can use them locally?
That would vastly depend both on the bulb and the firmware
Does anyone know of a good looking way to label switches? I'm trying to achieve a reasonably professional finish but not fully satisfied with my latest attempt using clear labels. The labels I bought don't have the most even coating of adhesive on them so I might try some higher quality ones (e.g. Avery). I had a look at laser engraving but I've only got a CO2 laser and seems a fibre laser is needed to mark the plastics used in these zigbee switches
Yeah. I was thinking about esphome. How well does training work? Like with the Broadlink IR blaster I have, there's just a service you run and then press the remote button and it learns the command. Is the experience just as simple for esphome?
Sounds a bit more annoying to do with ESPHome: https://esphome.io/components/remote_transmitter.html#setting-up-rf-devices
You have to watch the logs and manually copy over each command
Surprised this hasn't been integrated in with the remote.learn_command service
It's a little easier with OpenMQTTGateway, you just press the button and copy the contents of the mqtt message, but still a little more hands on than broadlink.
Yeah I'm doing some research into the ESPHome docs and it seems to kinda be missing the "final mile" in HA: https://esphome.io/components/rf_bridge.html?highlight=learn#getting-started-with-home-assistant
You can send an event to HA with the codes, but there's no method of storing them like remote.learn_command does
Actually it seems like that service is specific to broadlink. I wonder if there's some more general method in HA of storing remote commands to recall later
Are virtualized firewalls a good idea? My workplace is cheap, I'm wondering if I should run opnsense in proxmox (to run multiple applications) or run opnsense bare metal
Depends on how powerful the host it, how much data are you pushing through it etc
prob gonna run it bare metal. the host is gonna be a wyse 5070 extended with a j5005 CPU
just a small office setup with <50 clients
the IT guy wasted our entire budget already on not IT so I'm in this weird position where I'm donating hardware 🤷♀️
anyone know of a rf and ir remote replacement that works w/ alexa and home assistant? my rf Hunter fan remote is a pile of crap... doesn't hardly work 10ft away.
and no it's not the batteries
a good one
zigbee would be nice
Hi Everyone, I am having trouble adding aqara door/window magnetic contact sensor (Model MCCFQ11LM) to Home Assistant. I have read mixed reviews of people that have successfully used these devices and some that say they dont work. All feedback is appreciated. Thanks in advance !!!
I have a conbee II usb stick whit home assistant blue
and I am using ZHA
Just realized I had a typo in the model. Model is MCCGQ11LM
I have 5 of them currently, door / window sensors. For me everything worked as expected, using zigbee2mqtt + SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus.
Had some trouble with one particular motion sensor, but resolved quickly.
Now struggling with tasmota and sonoff devices...
@The Automator Thanks !!!. One of the posts I read suggested that the conbee II may not be listening well due to inteference. I have placed the device less that 1 foot away from the coordinator. Would you recommend the sonoff zigbee dongle over the new skyconnect coordinator?
I was using most basic zigbee dongle for years (same as old Raspberry Pi 3), but now made upgrade to Raspberry Pi 5 + SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle.
So far, no obvious issues around. 🙂
I will order one now. Thanks again.
the dongle e and the skyconnect should be the same thing
same chip different casing/antenna layout
If I have sonoff basic wired up with tasmota integration, do i need to specify MQTT setup as well?
Feels like currently this is my point of failure, where automation relies on tasmota, but it just turns off from time to time
Any recommendations for a good quality UPS? (US-based; budget <$250)
Are you looking for a physical remote or a hub that could send and receive rf/ir commands?
prob a hub.
really both tbh
but i'm thinking a hub would tie into ha
I'm in US if that helps
needs 433mhz
apparently
according to current remote
I just ask because if you're just looking to control the fan itself all you need is something to send out RF signals which a hub does. The means with which you cause that to happen doesn't need to be a rf remote. You could just use your phone, and interact with a HA dashboard, etc
I actually just ordered the BroadLink RM4 pro
i think that's the one i was looking at on amazon
I have the mini which only does IR and it's great. You make a service call to listen for commands, press the button on your remote, and then it learns them and you can play them back
ah ok
I was also looking into a more DIY solution using ESPHome: https://esphome.io/components/rf_bridge.html
ok i guess that's where I'll go... w the pro
Which actually looks pretty nice. My main issue there was there wasn't as nice of a user experience for learning commands
I think if I were to get another one I'd try that route just to see how I like it
eh, i'm looking for something on the more baked side so i guess i'll go w/ the RM4 Pro
ty
but that does look like an interesting project
Yeah I wouldn't have minded diying it a bit, but usually that also means the final usual experience is actually going to be better but it isn't in this case
There's also a sonoff rf bridge which is pretty popular that runs zigbee I believe
Not sure if that also does IR though
ok ty
Second vote for the BroadLink RM4 Pro. I have one controlling my office. Not bad for the price (coming from multiple Harmony Hubs).
can anyone suggest me a sensor which can read light in FC (foot candle), I like plants and would like to read the FC levels of some locations during the day. Most sensors read in Lux but FC would be ideal
Please @ me if you have a suggestion as Im going to bed now 🙂
Posted something that might be helpful #general-archived message
With that information, an accurate lux sensor also suffices. 🙂
Morning everyone 👋 I have a quick question. couldn't find it on anywhere on the website.
Is Power-over-ethernet version of Home Assistant Yellow compatible with Power Supply also ?
Yep
Thank you 🙂
Hi, I am using ha os on my qnap ts-253D in a virtual machine. Can anyone give me a tip for a cheap compatible zigbee stick?
Look at the pins in #zigbee-archived
does anyone know a smart device like this?
A square light? Zemismart makes a zigbee one I believe.
or what about a 3 light switch together?
MOES zigbee smart switch is compatible with MOES/Tuya Smart Life APP for intelligent controls via smart phones,featured as wireless remote control. This smart light switch only supports 2.4GHz network and reqiures MOES Zigbee Hub. This zigbee smart switch not only supports voice control, app remo...
how does this look like?
Camera recommendations? Need WiFi, solar, local storage and RTSP support
Going in a tree
would solar even work considering its under a tree? battery powered solutions would be kinda not great to recommend in general
There IS an outlet sticking out of the ground under the tree but then someone could just unplug it
Hello everyone, how can I turn off the leds of the Ethernet port of the pi5?
I tried
dtparam=eth_led0=4
dtparam=eth_led1=4
and it doesn't work...
On piOS everything works instead...
Sorry if this isn’t the right section
A piece of electrical tape
😐 In this way they are all good ... Then I really want to see how you put it with the Ethernet cable tucked inside 👀
U have an NVME in ur pi?
Yes
Nice
When have you last updated the pi's firmware? Which OS version/kernel are you running?
I ran sudo rpi-update yesterday with piOS in the sd (home assistant is in the ssd)
In the ssd latest home assistant OS 12.2
I'm asking because this apparently added/enabled the feature for the Pi 5: https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/pull/5826
Also see issue referenced there: https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/issues/5825
Seems like it's enabled for the pi based yellow at least:
- https://github.com/search?q=repo%3Ahome-assistant%2Foperating-system eth_led0&type=code
- https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/issues/2273
I'd recommend you open a issue in that repo about it missing in the "normal" pi build.
Is this the right topic area to ask for recommendations on a temp and humidity sensor that is “waterproof”?
I did, let’s see what happens
Yah.. with that hardware… you want native bare
@golden thorn With home assistant 12.3 rc1 that has the kernel 6.6.20 the dtparam for the led pwr and act also do not work 🤦🏻♂️
Yeah HAOS' kernel is different. I was going off of the official pi kernel. See links.
Anyone know if IKEA have discontinued their 5-button remote? Couldn't find any at my local on the weekend, and it's not on their website any more. All they have now is 2 or 4-button ones. Anyone got any suggestions for a decent replacement 5-button one (preferably AAA)?
Yes, it has been discontinued
If you want 5 buttons from IKEA (and don't care for the symbols on it) the new Symfonisk Gen2 might be something for you (well... it is a 7 button one)
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/E2123.html
you can grow attached to those Ikea remotes can you? I've had the same with the former Scene/shortcut button, that now is replaced by a much bigger unit. Decided Id give the Shelly BLU button a try because of that, and as of yet dont regret the effort
What a link?
are there any can lights or downlights that are compatable with HA? not bulbs. these are new lights that are getting installed.
Does anyone know if Home assistant can you run both zigbee (ZHA) and Zwave coordiantors and devices at the same time? Of course given that I have each coordinator (Zigbee and a Zwave).
Are you looking for Zigbee, Zwave or Wifi? There are literally dozens of different can lights that HA supports across multiple protocols.
Yes, absolutely.
Zigbee or Wi-Fi or matter but i would prefer local control. i try to avoid cloud control where possible. i looked a little but was not able to find anything that looked like it would work.
Zemismart makes a bunch of them: https://www.zemismart.com/collections/smart-light-419. Wiz also makes a couple as well and you can block them from the internet and use them local only.
Zemismart focus on research and development smart home things. Our smart home system include electric curtain, lighting control, smart switches, electric curtain, security system etc.
Most things base on WIFI or Zigbee,work on Homekit and Tuya APP
philips hue lights - https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/products/smart-recessed-lights
I like Hue except for their outrageous prices...
I run a bunch of wiz-wifi lights, that also work, and in my case were about $10/light (vs $40 for hue ones). Some tweaking on my 2.4ghz network and they work solidly. Need to use phone app to setup initially i think, and then direct non-cloud control.
Same, I had 60 of them at one point and then pared back to 47 of them now.
that's awesome. I currently have zigbee and WiFi devices. What I need is an outdoor smart plug. A long time ago in a galaxy far far away called Amazon, I purchased an outdoor zigbee smart plug (Enbrighten) however it looks like they dont make them anymore. However they do have them in Zwave, hence why I ask if you can run Zigbee and Zwave systems at the sametime in HA.
My unifi network config:
2.4 only, proxy-arp=on, bandsteering=off, bss transition=off, minimum data rate control=manual, both options set to 1mbps. Proxy-arp setting is the setting that reduced the latency (assumption is the esp32 doesn't deal with the broadcast packets as fast, arp's).
Yup. You can absolutely run both (and most people do). All my outdoor plugs are Tuya WiFi using local-Tuya. A bit of a pain to setup, but they don't require cloud access.
I do have one outdoor plug using Tuya-Local and yup it is a pain, so moving forward I rather use Zwave until I can find another Zigbee outdoor plug. Now does Zwave work kind of like Zigbee that if it is connected to mains power it will act like a repeater?
thanks
Kinda? Ish? In Zwave, everything can repeat (beam) AFAIK. I don't know z-wave as well as I know zigbee though. You might want to ask over in #zwave-archived to prove me wrong there. lol
thanks I'll check
Do you know a good light sensor that can work with ha?
the hue motion detector should have a light sensor on board
The github ones 🤨
thanks
Is there already an event handler system where I can easily check if the sun has set with ha?
perfect thanks
Does it connect to a remote server or it just uses ha? Sorry but possible dumb question.
I don't believe so, no. I think it uses your location in HA and then calculates based upon that. But, I'm not 100% certain of that.
I think IoT class Calculated tells you it does not go to an external server.
Ahhhh yeah, correct.
thanks
I have 2 different types of lights (outdoor spotlights) that I want to turn on based on the light sensor. I was thinking about using some smart plugs, do you have any other suggestion for that?
I actually do both. I have a computed average lux sensor that gets the average lux outside and then turns on lights that way. I also have automations that run minutes before or after sunrise using the Sun integration (closing curtains, increasing brightness in some rooms, etc). They both work equally well EXCEPT when it's storming here and the lights come on because they think it's too dark outside 😉
But using smart plugs to turn on outside flood lights? I'd just keep it simple and use the Sun sensor. At sunset, turn them on. At sunrise, turn them off. Dead simple automation.