#hardware-archived

1 messages · Page 58 of 1

jagged crypt
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look for ones with pull-chains?

tranquil girder
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yup, exactly. We went to home depot yesterday and that was literally what I was looking for on them. Found some but none in the style I wanted. Many of the ones in the more modern style I wanted use remotes and don't have pull chains

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This would probably be solved if I weren't so picky but I was just looking for options in case the 'no remote' requirement isn't truly a requirement

jagged crypt
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the house I moved into in the fall has a ceiling fan and hardwired controls

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it may have a remote, but we were not given it 🙂

twin acorn
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Is it possible to use the Aqara dual rocker switch connected to the M2 hub in decoupled mode, so that when I press the button on the switch I can make it control something besides the switch and the switch retain power?

wispy sapphire
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I was writing them and calling for weeks and they told me to pound sand

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I feel the community should teach this company a lesson. They should stay out of the smart home space. They only want to resell your info

copper mirage
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Hi all, I’m after some recommendations for lighting hardware. Thinking of an LED bar or strip but open to anything really. Criteria are:
-cheap as possible
-integrates with HA
-bright enough to throw some light onto the ceiling
-ideally able to interact with music/video currently playing but this is not a dealbreaker

Any suggestions would be much appreciated

golden thorn
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Lots of people bash on tuya and Sonoff. I'm not talking about anyone specific.

ashen apex
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Anyone got any experience with a Shelly EM1 and a contactor for breaking high amp loads? Just got a 15A socket installed to charge my EV and triggering the power while it's drawing causes a "Overpowering problem" in the Shelly/integration (with the contactor not triggering).

elfin osprey
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Hi all, is there a way to make my dumb lights smart (turn on and off) using zigbee. My original idea was to replace my "dumb" feller switch with a smart one, but feller only offers a switch that sends a zigbee message when clicked, it doesnt actually cut the power to the dumb lamps like I want.

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How do I do this

golden thorn
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You can put a zigbee module behind the switch and keep it.

hard turret
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if im moving house and leaving 2 zigbee dimmer switches, do i just unpair them from my setup and leaving them will be fine (they should work independently?)

winter geode
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Hopefully this is the right channel for this question. Fiber is being installed in my neighborhood by 2 different companies.Hopefully it will be ready by the end of summer. My goal is to purchase 1.2 GB service. If the wife is willing, I may stretch that to 2.4.
Currently, I am running an internal mesh network and it is being served by Ubiquity ER-X router. While this is a fine little router, it is limited to gigabit ports only.
What I am looking for is an upgrade to this router that supports 2.5 Gb ports. I do not need WiFi on the router, just Ethernet.
Any recommendations that do not break the bank, say under $150? I know that is a TIGHT budget, but I need to keep peace in my marriage 😅

glacial oracle
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You likely will need something that can do sfp+ for the fiber input and then either sfp+ to copper or directly copper 2.5gbe

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It's probably more of a 300-500 buck purchase

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If you are already running ui stuff, the dream machine may be a fit for it? I think it has at least two sfp+ ports

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Maybe that could be picked up used to be more in line with your budget

winged knoll
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You probably can't even get a cheap-ass 2.5 Gb mini-PC from Ali for that

pliant forum
# winter geode Hopefully this is the right channel for this question. Fiber is being installed ...

I don’t know of any for $150. You’d probably have to build your own for that price using Opnsense. Ubiquiti does have a router that can do 2.5Gbps for $199. You’ll need to disable IPS/IDS for over 1.5gbps routing though. https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-cloud-keys-gateways/products/uxg-max

winter geode
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Yep, just purchased a n5105 and will be putting Opnsense on it.

vague slate
vague slate
vague slate
tepid oracle
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I got the idea of maybe using some kind of smart speaker to use as my alarm clock and also for ambient noise when I go to sleep and automate that using home assistant
any hardware suggestions?
having like a voice assistant would be a bonus but isn't necessary

outer knotBOT
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Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

  • Which country you're in
  • What your budget is
  • What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
  • Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
winged knoll
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Sonos is great for music, but possibly overkill. Google Home devices aren't so good for music, but are usually cheaper

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Symfonisk speakers are cheap Sonos though

tepid oracle
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yea it'll just be rain sounds playing, and alarms. no music

jagged crypt
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If you want to play, look at the logitechmediaserver/squeezebox setup (open source). Can install all you need on a PI if you want, https://www.picoreplayer.org/ is an example, then plug speakers into the PI, or connect it to a bluetooth setup.

acoustic yoke
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Smoke detector

i’ve been researching smoke detectors that will report into Home Assistant and haven’t really come to any conclusion

There are several things that I think would be nice, but I have a feeling they’re not available

  1. 10 year battery
  2. Interconnected
  3. Siren can be controlled from Home Assistant
  4. Alarm can be canceled from Home Assistant
  5. ZHA or MQTT

Does anybody have any suggestions on anything that works for you?

glacial oracle
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there are some things that link hard wired interconnects to ha through zwave

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vague slate
vague slate
# acoustic yoke Smoke detector i’ve been researching smoke detectors that will report into Hom...

I haven't seen things that meet requirements 3 and 4. I have seen this and plan on adding it as a switch with esp-home. Kidde SM120X Interconnect Accessories Smoke Relay Module https://a.co/d/0YsB28u

ashen apex
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Here's a random one for everyone: Would the SMD LED array in a fan generate enough heat to cause an issue if I was to say, 3D print a dimmer/diffuser to go between the shroud and the LEDs? New fans that I got are WAY too bright, and only have 6 brightness steps. Trying to think of a clean way to dim them.

silk basin
buoyant mural
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Hi, Just browsing and saw this I've just bought a wifi to eBUS adapter and connected to Vaillant boiler to control the set temperature. Reading data in HA, now looking to send data if details of that would help? There is a lot going on here so plse excuse if I got it wrong or you have an answer.

hybrid wraith
ashen crypt
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I'm interested in Tuya's (or similar) Zigbee presence detector, mounted to the ceiling. However, while the wall mount version is 5V, it looks like the ceiling version is 80V-240V and I don't fill comfortable using this above the shower head. Any idea of whether the ceiling version can also be powered by a 5V power source?

winged knoll
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If it says 80V-240V the odds of it working with 5V are somewhere below zero

ashen crypt
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Of course, I meant bypassing the transformer

winged knoll
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Depends on what the guts need, really

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If the transformer drops it all to 5V then sure

ashen crypt
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I can buy and disassemble one, but if someone had done this already it could save me time (and money), hence the question here

steady void
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Are there any Sonoff NSPanel alternatives?
I'm looking for a small touch panel around that size.
Old Android devices are not an alternative for me.

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I would like to avoid making a hole in the wall and just keep it running on USB-C or something.

silk basin
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what specs do you need that exclude old tablets with an aftermarket OS and some mounting tape?

steady void
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Also it would be nice if it looked good like the Sonoff NSPanel.

strong kayak
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Hi all, if I'm in the wrong channel please let me know. I'm kinda desperate for help. I have a few CloudFree bulbs (pre-flashed with a version of Tasmota) that I've been trying to connect to my WiFi unsuccessfully. I can get them connected to my phone's hotspot, so it's clearly a router/network issue. Problem is I'm not a network guru, and CloudFree support hasn't responded to my emails, and the Tasmota Discord server didn't help either. My router is a TP-Link Archer AX54, no other routers, APs, or switches are on my network.
I can connect to the bulb's AP without issue, but when the setup process is handing over the connection from the setup device to the bulb, the bulb's web UI displays 'successful' but then tries to redirect to the bulb's new IP, 0.0.0.0. My guest WiFi is off and I don't see the bulb in any DHCP connection logs, but the logs aren't super detailed. A list of things I've tried:

Turned off DHCP and set up a separate RPi-powered DHCP server and restarted DHCP servers multiple times. There are plenty of IP addresses available. No other devices on my network have trouble with DHCP, including other WiFi-enabled bulbs, plugs, and sensors.
Disabled mesh networking
Turn off 5GHz band and disable Smart Connect (allows devices to use 2.4 or 5GHz)
Disable OFDMA and WMM
Ensured AP isolation is off
Capture traffic with Wireshark during setup (not experienced enough for that but I hoped I could find something)
Any help/hints are appreciated. This is a learning process for me but I've been stuck for a few days. Please feel free to ping me in replies!

outer knotBOT
winged knoll
strong kayak
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thank you

silk basin
# steady void I don't want the time and effort of maintaining the OS. Do you know any alternat...

i did make a small hole in the wall to pull the rs485 cable from my hvac. i printed a frame held with 2 screws so i could put a buck converter in the gap to provide 5V for the tablet. I rooted the tablet and installed a custom OS that auto updates, hass app runs on it, installed from FDroid repo, also self updating. the tablets (i got three for the house, one near front entry, one near back, one near garage) are old 7" Galaxy tab S2 (sm-t713b) and one 10" tab S3 (sm-t820), all on LineageOS. the 10" is usbC.

steady void
silk basin
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There's always old cell phones... Could easily use a flat wireless charging pad taped to the wall, and then mount the phone over the charging pad so you don't have a wire sticking out from the phone itself, if that's a deterrent. As you see from the image, i went with a 180° return connector for my plugs just to keep the wall "pretty", quiets the complaints. 😉

fading aurora
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Looking for recommendations for a zigbee light switch available in 1 to 4 gang models that works with ZHA, can be hard wired in to replace existing dumb switches & available in Australia. A bonus will be if holding the button dims as well but not a show stopper. Will be used to control philips hue downlights.

teal pendant
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Hi everyone,
I have a question about integration of HomeAssistant with latching (bistable) relays on DIN.

In my house, I am planning to have all lights controlled by push buttons that are sending impulse to latching relays located in central box.

I am trying to plan a way to control those using HomeAssistant, but I am not sure how to handle feedback if the light is turned on or off at the moment. I will have a esp that will be sending the impulse to the relay same way as switch does, but how can the HomeAssistant know that it got turned on or off?

Thanks.

winged knoll
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If all you have for it to work with is a toggle then it can't

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You need some way of monitoring the actual state and reporting that - eg power draw

teal pendant
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and can I create this type of switch logic in HA? That I will have trigger impulse and feedback that tells state?

winged knoll
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A template switch could, as long as HA has all the data

gloomy dawn
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anyone familiar with envisalink?

outer knotBOT
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@gloomy dawn Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.

When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:

  1. What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
  2. What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
  3. Is the problem uniform or erratic?
  4. What's the exact error message?
  5. When did it arise?
  6. What exactly don't you "get"?
  7. Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?
slender falcon
gloomy dawn
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basically we built our house a few years ago (2020) and i had the alarm guy install a full system with a few dsc panels and an evl4 board, full network etc... i had that board working with HA a few years ago, but im trying to re-do everything this week and struggling. in short, i have these exact symptoms: https://forum.eyezon.com/viewtopic.php?t=5380

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the board shows offline on eyezon. the online led on the board doesnt light up. it seems like the board is buggy and boot looping. and the firmware version is stuck at 01.00.100 , and no upgrade button

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i opened a ticket with eyezon and this is what they responded "Yeah, you left it too long with factory firmware and your physical FLASH
file-system is corrupted.

Yes, you either need a new Envisalink or if you are savvy enough, you
can force all communication with the Envisalink to its real server.
Unfortunately we can't really provide any support for the latter as that
is beyond our scope. You would need a router that can do this as well."

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so this $100 board essentially self-destructs if it sits on the factory fw too long?

winged knoll
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That sounds like total BS

gloomy dawn
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yea i just asked them that question ^

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their response: No, there was an issue with that firmware so that is why you needed to update it. The wear-levelling on the filesystem fails after a few years if you don't update the firmware to the new algorithm.

You firmware would have been updated automatically if you had activated your device when you bought it.

winged knoll
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Yeah, that's utter BS

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Something that's powered off ain't doing any writing to that file system

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We shipped some crap, clearly that's your fault

gloomy dawn
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agreed. they sell a $100 board with faulty stock firmware that essentially kills itself, then their only response is "buy another one"

winged knoll
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Yeah, either it was dead out of the gate or it came with faulty NVRAM that's died over time

gloomy dawn
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it worked fine a few years ago

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god i hate to do it... but i might get shady and do an amazon switcheroo 😐

neat grove
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I made the DIY "extension cord" except I just used the PC power cord itself directly. Cutting the original cord in half felt like a sin but it was worth it. These things are working great.

Also as a note: I really like Shelly's web-ui. I didn't need to install yet another app!

glacial oracle
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Glad it worked out so nicely!

neat grove
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Thanks again for the advice.

tawdry basin
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Hi all,

Any advice for a simple motion sensor? Let me show my amazing paint skills. This is our entry hall.
The door on the left is to the living room. Blue is the stairs. The other (red) door is the front door.
I currently have a Fibaro PIR (for years) but the thing is just crap if you ask me. I was wondering what a good motion sensor (i can go with Z-Wave/Zigbee/Wifi) would be, and especially about the placement. We have a lamp in the middle of the entry hall which we also trigger based on movement, but as you can see it basically only triggers when you're in the middle of the hall already.
From bottom to top, we are talking about maybe 3 meters...

distant yacht
wooden night
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this sound so simple.....but im struggling. Can anyone point me in the direction of a zigbee switch that fits OVER a standard uk light switch? I want to stop using the wired in switches and use zigbee instead....but ideally id like to cover the wired switch.

glacial oracle
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usually you replace the old with the new switch

subtle creek
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anyone have experience with the fp2?

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reviews seem, mixed? on it

winged knoll
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Hit up search and you'll find experiences here

subtle creek
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bad experiences are louder than good

distant yacht
# subtle creek anyone have experience with the fp2?

I do. I used to have it in my bedroom, but it lost my presence when I was asleep

It works perfectly well in the bathroom:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/can-i-use-a-mmwave-sensor-in-a-small-bathroom/689736/33

remote jungle
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hi, i'm trying to get my skyconnect i just got working and am having some trouble, is this the right channel to ask about it?

remote jungle
glad kite
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ESP32

mighty thorn
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Can anyone recommend a Smart Light handheld remote control that is HA friendly (can be zigbee, zwave, wifi, bt) that I can use to turn on/off dim up/down for lifx bulbs? I’m in USA, no budget

cursive violet
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Hi, i search a lawn mowers robot compatible with HA without cloud, do you know a model ? Thx

cyan lichen
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@mighty thorn if you want something simple, cheap, and cheerful, the IKEA RODRET or SOMRIG are zigbee devices that might do the trick. the RODRET is a two-button remote which can be bound to control zigbee devices directly, or control other things via automations. it supports single press and press+hold on both buttons (single press sends on/off commands, long press sends dim up/down commands). the SOMRIG is a two-button remote designed as a shortcut controller, but it's in the same form factor. It can only be used via automations, but is more flexible since it can do single press, double press, and press+hold on both buttons. note that they're designed to run off rechargeable AAAs.

pliant forum
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subtle creek
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@distant yacht so for that fp2, you have to use their app to configure the zones and whatnot right? does it require an account or is it all done in-app and beamed straight to the device via bluetooth or something?

distant yacht
subtle creek
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so if aqara doesnt maintain their app you're out of luck to reconfigure it after or are there other options you know of?

distant yacht
distant yacht
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i have even tried reading their EULA - if you're in europe, they have servers in europe and claim not to send data to china. how do you verify? u dont ;p
one day i will just block it on router and see if it will still work.

boreal sierra
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Hi all. I bought, received and installed 3 linknlink "presence" sensors. I have set them up both on HA and in their app. (unable to set them up without their app) I have used them for 2 days and find them complete garbage. I stand 2 feet away from it and it contantly switches from detected to no detection. I adjusted all the settings i could on their app. In my opinion, these are not presence sensors, but some form of motion sensor without the "bubble" sensor. I am not asking for help to get it working. I am asking if any of you use them and actually got them to work as intended. I'm contacting the company and will be arranging to return them. But can anyone convince me to keep them?

weary stump
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I have a Lutron Smart Bridge that is configured to HA. I previously had a dimmer switch configured but had to reset the physical switch so now the device in HA isn't working (which I would assume would happen). I'm trying to configure that switch again and also add a few more that I recently installed but HA isn't recognizing any new switches. How do I add these new switches to HA?

weary stump
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Looks like I just needed to update

gloomy dawn
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hey is this a dsc panel?

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yea looks like it. hrm. i got the new envisalink board and plugged it up, deleted the old system from eyezon and added the new one. says online. but also says:

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"Error: Panel Not Connected, Check Wiring or Registered As Wrong Panel Type."

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nevermind. it went away randomly after a few min

limpid canopy
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Hmmm so... I've got kind of a niche hardware request...
I've got a two sink vanity... And what id like is a simple smart button that can trigger turning the lights on, but, id really like for it to be outlet powered (Rather than battery)... It could even just, hang out on the vanity outlet for all it matters (preferably with a pass-through outlet but, meh).
I know it's a super niche thing but, all these wireless buttons and remote controls are overkill, and screw batteries @_@...
If push comes to shove I can do my own electrical and install a new electrical box and do like, a satellite smart switch but... Was hoping to find a less extreme solution ;p
Anyway, googling for such a thing has been unfruitful... It keeps trying to herd me toward smart plugs, which is not what I want xD

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So, anyone got any bright ideas? 💡

vast ivy
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I have a question about dooya blind motors. Im in china and it seems that there are some differences in model numbers, and possibly specifications. I have found the motor I need and the seller tells me that it has onboard 433mhz reciever. The issue is that I cant find any dooya bridge. My question is, can bridges from other manufacturers be used to control dooya blinds?

smoky moth
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Hi guys, is Amcrest still the way to go for an affordable RTSP HD doorbel?

dull juniper
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I am using the Reolink doorbell camera. I am delighted with it. It is fast and has great picture quality.

spiral pendant
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My home assistant server. I made the stickers btw

green summit
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Is there an esp32 based device with an obd2 port that works well with home assistant? It would be nice to have one that updates when connected to my home network and can work without a mobile app on my phone.

runic tinsel
signal fog
limpid canopy
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I don't need a relay, I need a simple button

runic tinsel
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Well the relays are ac powered, you put it behind a light switch and get it to send commands to your lights instead of actually turning anything on off

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So the relay goes to waste but you have a mains powered button

limpid canopy
runic tinsel
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If you had a light switch already somewhere there, even if it is unrelated to the vanity

limpid canopy
runic tinsel
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The relays usually have two inputs. The secondary does whatever you want, doesn’t flip the relay. So you just replace a single button for lights, with relay and a double switch and wire the new switch to the secondary input

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“Just”

limpid canopy
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oh, you didn't say anything about adding an extra switch

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but I understand now

runic tinsel
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It can fit into a normal switch box

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And be mains powered

limpid canopy
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sadly not wifi

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but neat

distant yacht
tight arrow
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What hardware is everyone using to run their Home Assistant server?

I have an UnRAID server that I could use, as I can run it in a Docker or a VM, or I could run it on a mini PC

What would you suggest, and can you advise me on a decent "future proof" dongle?

Thank you very much for your help!! 🙏

distant yacht
tawdry hare
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RPi 5 / 4GB (32 GB SD Card) running HA with tandoor recipe addon from third party repo

glacial oracle
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It makes very little sense to go for dedicated hardware if you already have a VM capable system

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For everything else the beelink n100 equipped models or similar will work just fine for most basic needs. But so does anything that got more than a thousand points on a geekbench

strange zodiac
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How'd the cync lights work out? You get the Matter ones?

strange zodiac
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I'm hoping Skyconnect is pretty future proof, considering these guys made it.

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GE Cync also has non-Matter bulbs, so it's hard to research

tight arrow
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What dongles do you both use?

distant yacht
strange zodiac
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I have a Skyconnect and a Zooz

tight arrow
strange zodiac
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I believe Skyconnect does Thread and Zigbee while the Zooz does ZWave.

jagged crypt
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Sonoff-E works fine with ZHA 🙂

inner cape
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Konnected

Makes Any Wired Alarm System Smart, now with ethernet and PoE. Your home, like millions of others, is pre-wired for an alarm system. Konnected is the solution you've been looking for to upgrade or upcycle any brand of wired security system. The Konnected Alarm Panel Pro is an ethernet connectivity enabled easy DIY solution to retrofit any wired ...

tight arrow
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Thank you @distant yacht @strange zodiac - are any of these plug and play?

I don't want to spend my life setting everything up and fixing stuff

plush smelt
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hey guys, random question as a sanity check - if i have a door sensor and just have the big part of it (with the battery and stuff), can i use a magnet instead of the other half to make HA think the door is closed when the magnet is close to the door sensor?

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(a lot of my friends like escape rooms and my wife jokingly said we should do an escape room at our place one day, but what she didn't know is how much stuff HA can do that'll make an awesome escape room, so i'm noting ideas - the door sensor idea so far is that i'll have half a door sensor hidden in a book spine with a wand [with a magnetic tip] and if they touch the right book, it'll trigger an automation)

undone arch
plush smelt
undone arch
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yeah I mean the one I used was a simple door sensor that the other part was just plain magnet plastic on it

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for the record it wasnt iot enabled or anything

plush smelt
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sweet, so in theory using a plain magnet should in theory work?

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i've got a door sensor just not a magnet to try with, so thought i'd ask before getting a magnet 😛

undone arch
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I d say yes for most situations, but again it is device specific question, like idk if there is complicated door sensors more than just magnet detection

plush smelt
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well the ones i have are just about the cheapest zigbee ones i could get, so i can't imagine they'd be very fancy?

undone arch
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though most door sensors are put inside side of the door so idk how would you reach the magnet in the first place

plush smelt
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but that's a fair point

undone arch
plush smelt
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well i'd put the sensor part of the door sensor somewhere hidden, and i'm hopeful a small but powerful magnet in the tip of a wand/other magical device will be enough to trigger the door sensor at least a bit

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is the plan anyway

undone arch
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worth a shot i guess, would be cheap to try anyways

plush smelt
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yeah exactly

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might need to find a magnet

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thanks for the advise!

undone arch
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yw, keep me updated if it works or not 🙂

plush smelt
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will do! it might not be for a few days until i get a magnet but i'll let you know once i've found something

keen warren
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Hey! On A double window (think [|] ) that opens on the right hand side, where would you place a vibration sensor to detect glass breakage?

glacial oracle
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On the glass, usually on the hinge bottom corner

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If wired that is, for wireless any corner will do

indigo bolt
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Im havining an issue getting my HA vm on proxmox to see the PCIE network and bluetooth adapter card that i passed through to it.
In HA i can see it under hardware but when i try to add the bluetooth interation its telling me no adapters found.

on the promox side I have iommu running so that isnt an issue anyway i dont think.

Anybody have a similar issue and way to resolve it

toxic granite
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I think this is the right channel for this.
I have just installed HA server to an RPI 4 and it is being powered by a POE hat. The fan on the hat is constantly spinning and making noise so i want to adjust the sensor for this in the config.txt file.
I have just tried to link to the RPI directly via hdmi cable but it shows me the custom Home Assistant console instead of the typical one and i cannot interact with it in a way like i normally would.
How do i get access to the config.txt file to make changes to it?

gloomy spoke
toxic granite
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I'll take a look at that link but will move my question to installation unless Jorg has the answer

terse pebble
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You can type login and access it at /mnt/boot

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You likely need to use the vi editor

toxic granite
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never mind. Got passed that issue it looks like

terse pebble
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cd /mnt/boot/

toxic granite
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yerp thats what i realised haha.
Now to learn vim 😂

terse pebble
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Not vim, vi

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That should help with the basics

golden thorn
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Assuming you mean the cmdline.txt you can run cat /mnt/boot/cmdline.txt to view it.

toxic granite
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no i mean config.txt so i can add in the settings for the POE hat fan control

toxic granite
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I got it sorted now i think. Thanks for the help

jagged crypt
sterile sapphire
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not sure if this is the right channel but does anyone know of a 4 way compatible motion sensor switch?

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just went to install a Lutron motion sensor switch which is billed as multi-way compatible and I just discovered that you need to purchase the companion switches for the other 2 locations ($30 ea).

devout canopy
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Hi. I am looking for a fan/motor rpm/speed controller for din mounting. Anyone?? 150w would do it

strange zodiac
slate yarrow
#

Hey folks. The big question of the year: what is the best Hardware for a dedicated Home assistant configuration? I have used since 2020 a dedicated rpi4 (with SSD, battery to prevent unwanted power disrupts, ... ) but with my configuration quite big I'm starting thinking that sometimes slowness in lights on/off, automations,... Can be hardware related (even if globally there is not a huge CPU consumption). So, if I had to change, and if I want to keep a dedicated hw with hassos, what should I chose to have a good compromise between consumption and performances?
I cannot past image but to give you some numbers, huge setup men's: 142 lights, 111 automations, 636 sensors, 221 binary_sensors, ... (Some of these does not matter that much I know). Thanks!!

slate yarrow
slate yarrow
# slate yarrow Ah yes I can paste a photo (it wasn't proposing it before)

And if you want to see the configuration, I described it here a while ago https://blog.mornati.net/home-assistant-with-rpi4-improvements

Marco Mornati's Blog

I started with Home Assistant over RPi more or less 3 years ago. The reason was simple: I needed to add protocols for what I was using at home and in the Smart Home Box universe you should choose between a few protocols or an incredible price (and ma...

golden thorn
#

A (U)SFF/Mini PC.

light elbow
#

Guys do you have any recommendations for a 15 inch Tablet / aio pc to Display the ha Dashboard?

cold terrace
#

if money's not a problem you could get a surface pro

#

(or the laptop)

jagged crypt
#

any SFF with VESA mount.....

gloomy spoke
#

English, please

spark otter
#

hey guys,
I have a shelly plug s and for some reason I get an error when I try to add the device. Device IP is 10.1.5.17 and device is reachable by server (ping from 10.1.5.3).
The error log is accessible here: https://pastebin.com/gsPmBMj5

I guess the most important info is :
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/urllib/parse.py", line 182, in port
raise ValueError(f"Port could not be cast to integer value as {port!r}")
ValueError: Port could not be cast to integer value as '//10.1.5.17:80'

Even though I only post 10.1.5.17. Does anybody know?
I dont have trouble adding any other devices until now 😦

The actual error in the Homeassistant is "The Device is using a non supported Firmware Version" (even though im using the newest firmware from shelly 0.13.0).

cursive verge
#

Hi guys,
Anyone using the skyconnect and have made a firmware upgrade?

Im on EmberZNet 7.3.1 and RCP Multi-PAN 4.3.1
Should I upgrade or pass? (I have never upgraded the firmware so dont know how easy it can brick the dongle, dont want that of course). I have issues but Im always up for possible perfomance and stability upgrades 🙂

terse pebble
#

My guess would be, that your issues are caused by using Multi-PAN

cursive verge
#

Jorg, did you talk to me? 🙂 I meant I have NO issues 🙂

toxic granite
#

Hey all.
So in my bedroom I have GU10 bulbs. I would like to swap them out for some smart GU10 bulbs with RGB capability.
The light switch I have is just a generic one which I did not intend to change for anything.
Is there anything bad about changing out the normal bulbs for smart bulbs at all with how it is? I'm UK based if this makes a difference.
If you need more info, please let me know.
Help is greatly appreciated

gloomy dawn
#

suggestions on good + affordable zwave dimmers and switches?

glacial oracle
#

For mesh based ones like for example zigbee, when they be powered off they do no longer be part of that mesh so different devices need to repick a different route of they previously relied on one or multiple of those bulbs

#

Generally that's not a big issue but for some devices it might be

toxic granite
# glacial oracle For mesh based ones like for example zigbee, when they be powered off they do no...

I probably won't use HA to turn them on and off thinking about it. I will still use the bedroom light switch to do that. More so would like to have lights with RGB that i can control with HA
I just got some innr zigbee smart switches to use for a lava lamp and bed side lamp
I was looking at either of these for the bulbs pretty much
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Tapo-Multicolour-L630-4-pack/dp/B0BF5J7BBG
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=innr+gu10+smart+bulb&rh=n%3A213077031%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A250340031&dc=&ds=v1%3AGe8CRSZeG6zdUX5u%2F51WhuhN2uR8r56xs11InB53I%2F0

Probably the tapo ones seeing as i can get 4 for the same price as i can get 2 from innr and i need 3 bulbs
Thoughts?

glacial oracle
#

Difficult to say really. Personally I would recommend stuff that uses ZigBee over wifi as that won't rely and allocate airtime which you likely want to use otherwise

#

Both of those brands are known to be probably ok quality wise

queen iron
#

if you run haos in a rpi3B and want to upgrade to a rpi5, is it only to change the sd-card from old to the new to get haos work?

winged knoll
#

No, the Pi3 image won't boot on the Pi5 (or 4)

queen iron
#

ah, thanks

#

does 4GB or 8GB make and difference when running haos?

golden thorn
#

Sure. Whether you benefit from it depends on what you run.

native pilot
#

I have a ecobee for my thermostat (1 zone) control. I'd like to track humidity/temp on the other floors of my house-- what's the best way to do this? I primarily have zwave and wifi devices now (but I do have a zigbee radio). No budget.

golden thorn
#

Best is hard to say. Cheap zigbee hygrometers work fine for me.

native pilot
#

Best for me = accurate

dry fable
#

I’ve got a Pi3 that I’d like to use as my HA Hub, what would be the best way to get Zigbee for it? Are there USB Dongles? And then, what’s the best cheap Zigbee Bulb? I’ve got 4 lamps I’d like to put smart bulbs into. USA

winged knoll
#

But yes, USB dongles are an option

#

Cheap bulbs though tend not to be good, but the Ikea CCT (white temperature) bulbs are ok

toxic granite
glacial oracle
#

hue probably tho that is also the most expensive option to go with. others tend to have a good time with ikea or innr ones

toxic granite
#

One of the ones I linked was innr. I realised after I asked what brand that the innr one was ZigBee. Unfortunate that that's the more expensive option for me in this case 😂

glacial oracle
#

hehe i see

stone magnet
#

Stay away from the multi pan firmware and it’s solid

bright hazel
#

Hello

opal yew
#

Are the nesw shelly gen3 worth it over the default one
they can upgrade to matter
if they are worth it what is the difference between the blue grey and red model

glacial oracle
#

The difference is in what they do

#

it's either switching, measuring or both

tough frost
#

Hey! I need a wireless outdoor security camera and I am looking for some help. Opening a thread

native pilot
#

anyone here using the musiccast/yamaha receiver integration here? If so, have you figured out any work arounds for volume control??

I'm using an appletv for media. I'd essentially like to set the volume to a specific level when the youtube app is opened/starts playing (because for whatever reason youtube is about 20% louder than any other app). I have other automations that start when youtube starts playing, so I know that much is possible, but I can't see a way to set the volume?

native pilot
silk basin
#

I've just finished moving my HASS onto a pi5 on SD card. Everything worked ok after uninstalling and reinstalling a couple of add-ons, but now i'm trying to move data to the attached NVMe drive, and am confused by what i see. The NVMe is Samsung 770, but the only option that pops up as a target to move to lists it as a Barracuda Q5 hard drive, and shows it as half the drive size. I have no qualms with half the size because i did have two partitions on the NVMe, about half each, but i'm thrown by the fact that i really can't tell which partition it's seeing. It does not report the device id, only some derrived name which does not match my hardware, and i have no hint of which partition is even seen. One partition was mostly empty, the other was mostly empty except for a small OS on it that i used just to get parted running. Further confusing, i put terminal on it, tried lsblk, not installed, ran df and nothing on the NVMe shows up... Where is HASS finding this misterious Barracuda HDD?

#

Ok, i did a bit more searching, looking at settings-system-hardware, then expanding AllHardware shows actual devices that were found. Some are identified incorrectly, which makes it uncomfortable to use those names when setting stuff up... I found my NVMe drive, yes, incorrectly identified label, but right device anyway. Looking down the list of partitions for that device i found the one that matches the one single target found for the data-move function. It is the very last partition (three were found). I had wanted to use the second partition, but i guess i could be coerced into using the third one, even though it's smaller than the others. I'm thinking there's some some feature that makes HASS blind to all but the very last partition on a drive... Is this an undocumented feature or a bug?

crisp plank
#

Need some help with installing mitsubishiHVAC hack onto a wemos d1 mini close. I can get other programs loaded onto it (blink, HVAC8266) and see the wifi it generates. However when I install mitsubishi2MQTT, I cannot see any Wifi SSIDs generated

upbeat seal
#

Hello. I have a garage door opener whose signal outside is very weak. I have used a shelly to control it trough phone, but my wife still prefers to use a radio remote to open, so I bought a generic role-coding to receive the signal from the remote, and I want to connect it to a sonoff zbmini or another switch (dual r3, shelly, or whatever), and make it open the door through inside my network, but I don't know how to wire the device so it sends the signal to the switch. I attach the scheme of the radio receiver:

dense star
#

I've just completed an upgrade of my HA Server, moving from an RPi 4B+ with a SATA SSD to an RPi 5 with an NVME SSD. The transition was quite straightforward, with minimal impact and downtime. I have documented the steps taken if anyone is interested. The performance improvement has been very noticeable, with serving web pages and device data updating on various dashboards being much quicker. I'm very happy with the results and it's definitely worth the minimal effort.

plain osprey
#

I’ve been thinking of buying the HP EliteDesk 800 G2 SFF for home assistant the specs are Intel Core i5 6500 (3.2GHz) Processor
8GB DDR4-2133 RAM
Intel HD Graphics 530 Integrated Graphics
256GB SSD
Gigabit LAN No in build Wi-Fi Would that be sufficient to run home assistant with things like face recognition?

signal cedar
#
cold moon
keen light
#

Does anyone have any suggestions for a zigbee based remote similar to the '"FUT089Z"" but without the sliders.
the more buttons the better. as I want to use it to control multiple curtains in one/multiple rooms [open close/set=XXX position]
{Multi-press buttons are also not what I am looking for. where 1 key has 3+ features}

The DIY remote is something I might consider using as a LAST RESORT, but I would rather have something OFF-THE-SHELF.

NOTE: I do not want to use any card/cover features, I prefer a PHYSICAL remote for this and use a automation to make this work.

boreal sierra
#

hi all. Thirdreality door/window sensors, good or crap?

#

replacing my current front and back door Aqara sensors that died for no reason with 75% battery.

#

@modern moss you alright lol, fall asleep on the keyboard?

modern moss
#

Hey! I want to try setting up an indicator for whether the dishwasher is clean or dirty based a power meter on the outlet and a tilt/vibration sensor on the door. What indicator would you use? Want something that it’s easy to see close to the machine. A small colored light or a screen would be perfect. Just haven’t been able to find any off the shelf devices within a reasonable price range 😦 Anyone done something similar?

modern moss
modern moss
boreal sierra
#

ah, the dishwasher is a basic plug, so i use a sengled plug for alerts if my washing maching is done. But i believe most smart zigbee plugs now all have power consumption readings

modern moss
modern moss
#

Don’t want to pick up my phone to check … 🙂

boreal sierra
#

ikea unfortunately isnt around the corner and ive heard horror stories of deliveries. Anything on amazon is mostly my go to. Unless my friend goes to ikea, then ill get them to grab something.

#

what about a led strip to flash when its done based on the power consumption?

#

or audio from alexa or google saying its done

#

then a contact sensor on the side and door and after the cycle if the contact sensor was opened then it would reset from clean to loading/dirty

#

i believe beardedtinker has an upcoming video for epaper devices that could be your display

#

so you could automate that until the cycle starts its shown as "loading/dirty" then cycle running as "cleaning" and cycle finished but door hasn't opened yet as "done" or "Clean". Of course if you open the door after the cycle is done but havent unloaded it and just closed the door, it would still be reset back to "loading/dirty". You can also have a button on the side of the dishwasher that you press once you've unloaded the dishwasher. Then, once pressed, the display would show "loading/dirty"

#

I hope I got what you were trying to do, but i may have just added a project to my list for myself...

modern moss
#

Sorry for the delay. My plan is to do the following. Change to status clean after the power sensor indicates the cycle is done and back to dirty after the tilt sensor tells me the door has been fully open for more than two minutes (takes care of the cases when we open to let out steam or open to pick out a few items and close again). Probably will have a cleaning status as well while the machine is at work. Button will not work. We had a manual sign that we were supposed to flip, but it was often forgotten and therefore we never trusted it. Alexa telling me it is done is not needed. Really not looking for an alert, but rather the ability to know the state of the machine when you are standing there wondering whether it has been run or not (we prewash so it can be difficult to tell at times).

modern moss
boreal sierra
#

all good, i was busy breaking and fixing my set up for the last few hours

modern moss
#

😉

boreal sierra
#

i almost deleted 56 devices from my zha cus i was adding z2m into HA to run alongside zha.

modern moss
boreal sierra
#

2 dongles, and i messed up the usb ports which nearly blew up my system, metaphorically

#

quite lucky then, wish i was closer cus i likely would have saved a bit of money and perhaps gotten better hardware. i mean, i could go, but lazyness always gets the best of me. 2+ hours for a sensor and me physically having to go or 2 days amazon nd i do nothing but tap and tap and pay.

#

(me in 5 years wondering why i can't fit through my front door to leave)...

modern moss
#

LOL! I honestly wouldn't have bothered going 2+ hours to IKEA either. But I gotta say they provide som cheap stuff; even compared to Aqara and other chinese brands.

modern moss
hasty roost
#

Hey all, I just install HA OS on an old 2010 macmini that I upgraded to an SSD. It has 8 gigs of RAM, do you think I should upgrade to 16?

fringe crater
boreal sierra
#

unless the rule is that the dishwasher must be unloaded if opened by who ever in the house, if open and closed multiple time (airing out, grabbing 1 or 2 things, etc.) you will still end up opening it once and questioning whether what's in there is clean or dirty. The sign, button, or note are all ways for the person to say "yes its empty and now filled with dirty stuff.

#

i cant, for the life of me, think of a way this could work.

next solstice
#

ever since updating my inovellis (red dimmer) to latest firmware (1.57 - which i think is not new at this point) the lights flicker

elfin scroll
#

I'm struggling to find something:. I have an INMP441 microphone and it runs on an i2s protocol, and a Seeed Xiao esp32-S3, which I know handles i2s, but I cannot figure out what pins to use. The documentation is all over the map.

distant yacht
#

Is there a way to connect a wifi wall switch so that it always gives power to the light and clicking on the physical switch only turns it's status to on/off?

The expected result: I can switch a smart lightbulb from HA + using the physical switch => both just turn on/off the lightbulb by the signal, not by cutting the power on/off.

Or does the smart switch really needs to have some kind of built in function for that?

fringe crater
silk basin
buoyant sapphire
#

i just realized my govee bulb is not suporteed on HA. and my new nanoleaf matter bulb is bluetooth only. UGHHH

Which bulb and outletswitch is most supported. I would love to build in some notifcations to my family with it.

slender silo
slim cargo
#

I'm looking for new smart plugs, current favorites are Refoss P11 and Athom v3 plugs.
The Refoss are a bit cheaper (~40€ vs 55-60€), but the Athom uses ESP32 instead of ESP8266 (one advantage I know of: WPA3 support).
Does anyone have some experience with these plugs and can recommend one over the other?

modern moss
# boreal sierra i was giving it a bit more thought, and i believe the human factor will still, n...

Hi. You may be right. Still gonna try as I think it might just work. The status change to clean will likely be precise. Also, there is no way to empty the machine without opening it fully (the lower drawer cannot be rolled out and accessed unless the door is at a 90 degree angle). Hence, the only way to get an incorrect status is if we fully open the machine for a longer time than the set limit (I'm thinking 2 min) without picking out the clean dishes. This actually happens very rarely in our home and in the worst case it would cause us to re-run the machine. Still a significant improvement over the current situation where I often get home and have no idea whether the machine has been run or not and end up re-running it to be on the safe side 🙂

boreal sierra
#

@modern moss with whatever you end up with keep me posted. Seems to be a habit that we wash clean dishes as well. We can easily say "well ill just remember" but that rarely ever happens...

stuck cypress
#

Hello... as i am curious and am just learning about HAKit and that I could in theory make my own native and personalized dashboard as an iPad app (i am an iOS developer... not android...). Sounds cool. But what comes to my mind is, if an iPad will ever make a cool hang-on-the-wall-dashboad? What I'd like is my iPad to wake up automatically when i approach it and turn off when there is nobody there. And when waking up, it would need to be in my app directly. Is that even possible? I know Android tablets can do that and I've also seen some hacks with iPads and accessability assistance. It that still working? And... is it working reliable?

dusk phoenix
#

Have any of you ordered the SmartKnob from Seedlabs?

wet moat
glacial oracle
#

That would depend on what is 24v about it

#

In case of the Shelly and probably other gear there is no non input voltage output

wet moat
#

best i can tell the 24v supplies power to the motion sensors. (three wire)

boreal sierra
#

hi all, i bought a 3 pack of the linknlink "presence" sensors about a month ago and got them about a week and a half ago. I have had nothing but false detections and in my opinion, one of the worst products I've ever used. However, I'm not ruling out human error just yet. So far I've moved the devices about 10-15 times into difference positions. I've increased and decreased the sensitivity levels from the app, and overall spent far too long testing and retesting moving them and testing again and so on. I got a partial refund from the company and they said to keep them. Anyone have these that ran into issues first on and now they are the holy grail? Or have you thrown them in the trash?

onyx stratus
#

Hey does anyone happen to know a board that can convert an external microphone like an electret mic to work with ESPHome? I can't seem to find any working option other than the INMP441 but that doesn't let you use your own mic.

cyan lichen
# buoyant sapphire i just realized my govee bulb is not suporteed on HA. and my new nanoleaf matt...

nanoleaf matter bulbs require a thread border router, but (with up to date firmware) they work great if you have one of those. if you don't want to get a device which can talk thread or zigbee, and don't want bluetooth, you have to stick to wifi bulbs. There's some third party integrations/add-ons for the Govee bulbs, tho it might have to use cloud control. If you want something that home assistant includes an integration for and supports local control, maybe try WiZ or TP-Link Kasa?

#

there's also a few matter bulbs out there using wifi which would work fine with home assistant.

buoyant sapphire
#

@cyan lichen once you get the matter router the other matter devices will create a mesh I assume ? I got the 3 bulb Nanoleaf pack and was going to deploy them on the top floor and basement…

cyan lichen
#

It's a Thread border router; "Matter" supports working over multiple different technologies. It can run over Wifi, or it can use the low-bandwidth mesh networking technology Thread.

#

In order for home assistant to talk to devices using thread, there has to be a connection between your lan and the thread network. that's what a thread border router does.

#

thread is a mesh network, but it's a very low power network. it is likely to have problems if you have devices spaced widely apart

#

the solution to that is usually "get more devices" - you can either get another thread border router to talk to the far away devices, or have more thread devices in-between to do mesh routing.

lean sundial
#

Anyone got suggestions on cheap energy usage sensors that'll work with HA? Specifically looking at hardwired or clamp around solutions as I'll be monitoring commercial based connections

#

16a, 32a single phase, 3 phase upto 100a

glacial oracle
#

shelly ones work nicely

#

the clamp on ones probably can do up to 120A depending on the version you get

lean sundial
#

I've seen the shelly ones & they look pretty promising, seem to be the goto for energy monitoring stuff. Only issue then is price. Potentially looking at upto 40 points being monitored

glacial oracle
#

reliability tends to cost
i forgot what its called but there are ones that do a lot more channels which commonly gets mentioned here

#

or the alternative alternative would be to diy something with esphome

lean sundial
#

DIY may actually be the better way.....

glacial oracle
#

the other one i couldnt remember was the emporia vue which does up to 16 cirquits

lean sundial
#

The place is now a large multiuse nightclub/show style place, converted from an old steel works. Most of the power in the place is from the old steel works, so it's old as hell, mostly obsolete fuse boxes. That generates an issue hooking some bits in as I'd have to replace the fuse box.

upper yoke
#

any good home assistant remotes for controlling my home theater supporting HAS (so calling scripts etc)

elfin coral
#

It's the second time I'm trying to install my assistant, but it's the first time I'm doing it directly on a mini PC. The installation goes fine, but when it comes to booting up, it doesn't generate any IP address and shows an error message saying it wasn't installed properly when accessing the default address. How can I fix this?

golden thorn
#

Please run ha network info.

pallid flint
#

How would i setup something home assistant Maybe a script or something that would evaluate to true if Sensor.Temp.A was Higher then Sensor.Temp.B?

#

would that be a script or Maybe a template sensor?

glossy prism
#

Template binary sensor for sure

pallid flint
#

something like

binary_sensor:

  • platform: template
    sensors:
    outdoor_warmer_than_indoor:
    friendly_name: "Outdoor Warmer Than Indoor"
    device_class: heat
    value_template: >-
    {{ states('sensor.lumi_lumi_weather_temperature_3') | float >
    states('sensor.lumi_lumi_sensor_magnet_aq2_device_temperature') | float }}
glossy prism
#

That's the old format, so ideally you'd use something like

template:
- binary_sensor:
  - name: Whatever you want
    state: "{{ states('sensor.lumi_lumi_weather_temperature_3') | float(0) > states('sensor.lumi_lumi_sensor_magnet_aq2_device_temperature') | float(0) }}"
cyan lichen
#

You can also add simple template binary sensors via the ui (on the helper screen) if you prefer, it'll have a field for you to write the template in.

rustic elk
#

Trying to figure out the best approach for automating my irrigation water. I'll have a 2in poly pipe that I'm starting with, and I'll probably tee it off into a bunch of sprinklers or other outlets.

I haven't really been able to find a non -crazy expensive consumer someone yet, and I'm not entirely sure how to start on the "make your own" path just yet. Looking for suggestions if anyone has tried to solve this

drifting grove
#

Anyone use Ecowitt and have zero data but can see the battery levels of all your devices?

dark perch
#

hi,
i am trying to display the temp of a r-pi in home assistant and i follow a tutorial.
now i have this

sensor:

  • platform: command_line
    name: Proxmox CPU Temp
    command: "ssh (my_username)@(my_ip) 'cat /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp'"
    unit_of_measurement: "°C"
    value_template: "{{ value | multiply(0.001) }}"

in configurasion in yaml but after the restart i disnt see the sensor in entities
any help?

golden thorn
dark perch
#

is working
it returns me : 35000

gloomy spoke
dark perch
#

ok thanks

signal fog
#

hello!

Does anyone have a recommendation for an IR blaster for Home Assistant? I'm familiar with Broadlink but am curious if there's better ones out there

forest pike
#

any recommendations for a smart lock that is ultra minimal? ideally finger print only? i was thinking zigbee but i'm open it other protocols. ideally something that doesn't need internet to some propreitary app obviously

forest pike
#

actually maybe better question do smart deadbolts exist? i don't need a key visible on the exterior, just something to actuate a deadbolt from the inside

hollow axle
#

I want to make a small HA control panel using esp32 or an rpi zero. Anyone have any project suggestions to make one at a reasonable price. If possible id like some kind of touch screen or eInk display. 7" or under aside display

tawny viper
#

Smart part is interchange too. For different protocols

forest pike
tawny viper
#

Level lock exists.

#

But that might not fit your bill either. Id strongly suggest zwave regardless.

forest pike
#

i saw level lock but it appears to be homekit

#

level lock actually seems to be the closest i've found so far tbh. it is just a smart deadbolt. it looks like i might be able to install that without the external keyhole which would be great

tawny viper
forest pike
#

yea i dont have any apple devices

#

was planning to do zigbee everything for the house

tawny viper
#

Locks, strongly suggest zwave. Bluetooth alone is eh. Wifi is well, wifi

#

Just way more options zwave too. One of those things.

forest pike
#

gotcha okay i'll take a look

forest pike
#

are there any smart locks that work with mortise locks but are local only (no app setup required)?

frank leaf
#

Hi everyone, I am looking to start with home assistant.
I have a budget and I am already having my own victories with the camera so far.

I am looking to buy a lot of devices, presence detectors, air quality sensors, temperature sensors, door and windows sensor, curtain motorization and so on.

I am looking to the best devices in term of power consumption. So anything that will consume the lowest possible, even if I have to pay more to get them. Anyone can adivise me a brand for that?

winged knoll
#

Zigbee is generally a good bet since it's a low power protocol - and most sensors will be battery powered

#

There are many #zigbee-archived brands. That channel can advise about specific devices, if you tell them the country you're in.

winged knoll
#

So tell them, over there, when asking about specific devices - eg bulbs, leak sensors, etc

frank leaf
#

thank you, will do that 🫡

crisp latch
#

Hey all. I'm looking for a house doors magically unlock for family members experience. Is the anything that is "there" yet. Don't want to have to fish out a phone for nfc.

#

I'm located in the US and would like to be < $500 per door

glacial oracle
#

The issue mostly would be accurately and reliably detecting a family member but only when trying to enter. Opening a door is not too difficult then

crisp latch
#

Semi-passive rfid maybe?

#

Bluetooth perhaps?

glacial oracle
#

Both may not be very directional

#

You don't really want the door to open if someone is simply close to the door without the intent to enter or exit

#

Could see some possibilities with cameras and AI detections but that may severely lack in certain situations

crisp latch
#

Our doors each have 15ft or so from any place you might be except the laundry and that is by thr carport so thst one can stay unlocked when the garage door is down

#

I don't want them to actually open just unlock

glacial oracle
#

In that case something with Bluetooth, RFID or other presence sensors probably could work just fine

#

That's likely a diy project tho to some extent

crisp latch
#

I do think a "human is or was here" alert and declining to unlock would be very desirable but think we are likely a few years out? We already have a dozen or so cameras - my wife handles those but they are battery powered amazon-house-brand things

#

Link-up time sufficient on recent phones? All our phones are current but the 7yr old doesn't have one yet but likely will soon

glacial oracle
#

The battery powered aspect probably will limit you reusing them for this, if they don't already have the capability to detect and alert that is

ionic olive
#

just had a really weird issue with ZBDongle-E .. it drops out and errors occasionally, fine whatever.. i have replugged it once or twice and that sorts it out

#

but now its completely forgotten its manufacturer string and has renamed its product from "SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus V2" to "USB Single Serial", and its serial number has changed

ashen gazelle
#

Hi all, I'm looking for ZigBee enabled relay PCB with integration for a physical switch (rocker switch). Any thoughts?

glacial oracle
#

You could probably simply use an ordinary light switch one like the Sonoff zbmini or similar ones

pine acorn
#

Wondering if there’s an alternative to the hue dimmer switches (battery) that work well.

Budget is like $30 USD
US based
Zigbee or z-wave is ok

glossy prism
#

any reason you don't want the Hue ones if your budget is 30 USD (which is a little more than what they cost)?

pine acorn
glossy prism
#

ah weird

fringe crater
# pine acorn Does it do dimming?

Depends on what you mean exactly by "do dimming" I guess. I believe it supports press and hold events.
But it doesn't electrically "do" anything but send zwave messages. It's up to you and HA to effect that into some specific light behavior.

pine acorn
#

I was looking at the IKEA ones too

pine acorn
# glossy prism ah weird

Yeah, I’m not sure what’s up. One of them seems to take forever when you press a button for stuff to happen. I’ve rebooted the hub, changed the zigbee channel, reset and readded it, still does the same thing. I’ve got hue plugs nearby, still nothing

cyan lichen
#

really weird. low battery, maybe?

pine acorn
#

Hue App says the battery is full

cyan lichen
#

fwiw, i've got a bunch of ikea remotes and I've mostly been happy with them, but i don't think they'd work with the hue bridge (I'm using directly with home assistant via zha)

pine acorn
#

Oh I was thinking of eliminating hue out of my place 😅

glacial oracle
#

Weird that hue gives you trouble, it's generally known as the solution that works

pine acorn
#

Yeah… it worked great for me for like 4 years and now it’s gone wonky. In general it was always stable.

glacial oracle
#

Maybe it could be an issue with the coordinator, something causing interference or the device going bad

pine acorn
#

Coordinator in this case being the hue hub?

glacial oracle
#

Could be, tho this may be more common on other party ones

#

I wouldn't bet my money on that

pine acorn
#

Yeah… I was thinking interference as the motion sensor stopped working too. Stuck on detected, tried all the normal stuff (reset, etc). Still stuck on detected, even with fresh batteries. Took it and stood right near the hub and it still didn’t do the things

ashen gazelle
glacial oracle
#

That may depend on the voltage ratings of those switches. Shelly ones can do that but they aren't zigbee

#

Usually the switching voltage cannot be different from the switched one

half arch
#

I'm mucking about with a zhaquirk restarting takes awhile. I'm running HA on an pi4 with a usb m.2. if I upgraded the hardware to a nuc with Intel Alder Lake-N100 and 256GB PCIe X1 SSD(800MB/s) drive how much difference would it make in reload time?

glacial oracle
#

Difficult to say what you consider to be reload time

#

It's probably a lot faster in certain areas while not faster at all in others

half arch
#

I assume STT would be much faster (unrelated to reload times)

glacial oracle
#

Yes that is likely

keen ingot
#

Is there a good HA-capable device that can be used as an on-demand IR blaster/remote control?

#

e.g., if I just want it to be able to send an IR remote signal within an automation/scheduled event?

pallid flint
#

there are a bunch that work well with HA... i had an old Logitech harmony one laying around that i started to use. that said IR can be pretty unreliable... It misses some times and then stuff gets messed up

pliant forum
#

Works locally with Home Assistant

gloomy spoke
#

still needs some critical functionality to be useful

#

(for me, at least)

keen ingot
#

@gloomy spoke I'm trying to figure out control for a Toto Washlet remotely 🙂

#

Most of the "front side" remote actions are simple and easily recordable/replayable from something like a Flipper. But the buttons on the back side of the remote (water/seat temp settings, etc) seem to send an IR pulse but also maintain an internal state of some sort, IDK

#

trying to figure it out

gloomy spoke
#

I suggest not activating the bidet functionality unless you're already physically there

keen ingot
#

Ideally would be great to be able to control seat heat from an automation that is more granular than the built-in energy saver modes

#

alol, it won't activate if there's no pressure on the seat sensor 🙂

#

although that would be fun to override and surprise someone who just stepped out of the shower

tepid heart
ashen apex
forest pike
#

are there any smart locks that work with mortise locks but are local only (no app setup required)?

ember parcel
#

Make sure to get a fail-closed one, not fail-open.

#

Mine is on a night-latch style lock (see pic) but the plate can also be mounted in the door frame if used with a mortice lock.

(wouldn't work if the lock is deadbolted though, only if the door can be also be locked via the latch only)

olive rampart
#

Hi there, I'm looking for a pool thermometer that works with HA. I saw a number of DIYs, but can someone recommend an off-the-shelf product?

twin acorn
#

Is the smart things multipurpose contact sensor the only sensor that does vibration and contact?

#

Looking at trying to do some washer and dryer notifications/ automations.

drifting grove
#

I'm looking for a basic thermostat that works well with HA. Just temperature setting and temperature sensor (I'm in the Netherlands). Anyone got any advice? I'm using a rooted Toon right now that's just not reliable.

blazing compass
#

I am looking for a smart lock that will automatically unlock when i get near the front door, and automatically lock when i leave. I have no other eco system for "smart home assistants" anymore as i found them kinda dumb, so it needs to be a standalone item. It needs to have really good battery life, as i want to eliminate the need to have a physical key all together

Is there a good candidate for this? if so please let me know.

glacial oracle
#

Probably not

#

The battery life is primarily a function based on how easy your door locking system is to operate. There is fairly little that magically detects your presence especially in lock form as there are major challenges involves that tend to require not trivial hardware

blazing compass
#

Damn, that's really disappointing. I remember looking into smartlocksin 2019-2020 and found people to recommend the August locks, and today, 2024, thats still the top recommendation on google, maybe a slighly never model, but same form factor and same downsides it seems. I really thought 4 years would make these work properly

glacial oracle
#

You could opt for a less locking and more latching style one like it gets used for businesses (magnetic), those tend to also be fully wired

#

the issue with most smart locks is that they are rather insecure solutions which leads to not many people using them and there being no large development because of the lack of interest

blazing compass
#

Ah that makes sense, sucks is all

#

I live for the day when the only thing i need in my pockets is my phone

#

I left my wallet 3 years ago, but my keys still haunt my pockets

glacial oracle
#

The credit card in disguise;D

blazing compass
#

Yeah google pay has worked with 0 issues for 3-4 years now, and i love not having a wallet

glacial oracle
#

A subscription to unlock your door which you pay every time you try to enter id better not give em ideas

blazing compass
#

If it worked, id almost do it

#

i hate keys

glacial oracle
#

If money isn't an issue and the environment allows such installation you may want to look into commercial access systems

#

They tend to offer RFID/NFC compatible points

blazing compass
#

Yeah, that seems like a lot of work for little gain, it wouldnt allow me to invite friends whose phone could also unluck my door, or self lock after x seconds, or unlock once my car hits the garage

glacial oracle
#

There is plenty of possibilities in digital access management

#

The ubiquity access solution could be an example of that, tho I haven't used it and can't make any statements about how good or easy that would work for you

blazing compass
#

While it might be the best / only solution, it seems a bit overkill for a single frontdoor lock

glacial oracle
#

There is probably plenty you could try to diy. or you decide it's fine to have less features/the ones available will work

#

But yea it's not a lot of easy options

frosty oar
#

Best i've found currently is probably going to be a homekit enabled smartlock and apple watch as a replacement for your keys if you are already using the iOS ecosystem

#

if its polling to see if you're nearby it creates vulnerabilities similar to keyless car fobs

blazing compass
#

Im all android, no smartwatch

frosty oar
#

you are depending on the phone as a key?

#

backup in case phone dies?

blazing compass
#

my phone hasnt died since 2019

#

i keep that bitch up

frosty oar
#

phone dies/lost

#

so if you lose phone you've now lost your phone, wallet, and keys

#

great

gloomy spoke
#

Witness protection it is

blazing compass
#

yeah id have a key somewhere on the property that i can unlock the deadbolt with, i dont want the deadbolt replaced

frosty oar
#

ah the good ol hide your spare key under a rock

blazing compass
#

yep im perfectly fine with that as security

#

my car also has a keyless fob that i love

#

idc if its a few % less securre

frosty oar
#

i mean its not impossible but if you want your phone to act as a key its going to sap away battery life

#

its also slower

blazing compass
#

id want an off the shelf product tho, i dont want to tinker something myself

winged knoll
frosty oar
#

that works too

blazing compass
#

HA?

winged knoll
#

Home Assistant

frosty oar
#

home assistant

winged knoll
#

You know ... the server you're in 😉

frosty oar
#

lol

blazing compass
#

As in a google home?

winged knoll
#

Nope

#

That

frosty oar
#

it does mean having it running in the background though which does use battery

winged knoll
#

You found this server and don't even know what it's for ... 🤣

frosty oar
#

not sure if there are possibilities for false triggerings of where it just unlocks your door because you restarted your phone

winged knoll
#

Somebody (else) skipped reading #rules when they joined - I can tell 😛

winged knoll
blazing compass
#

no i joined off the reddit, googling smart locks

frosty oar
#

haven't fully tested, but i think tasker automations does use less battery than HA for location in the background

blazing compass
#

"home assistant" is so vague it could refer to anything

winged knoll
#

That's why the site is linked from #rules

#

And many other channels

#

If you'd actually read the rules when you joined you'd have known more 😉

frosty oar
#

literally the first result that shows up on google

blazing compass
#

i genuinly did, i just thought https://www.home-assistant.io/ was some app or something for google home

Home Assistant

Open source home automation that puts local control and privacy first. Powered by a worldwide community of tinkerers and DIY enthusiasts. Perfect to run on a Raspberry Pi or a local server.

#

i didnt read the wiki

winged knoll
#

Well, it can work with GHome, but it's not for GHome

blazing compass
#

could be a solution if it doesnt require too much setup. When i setup plex and jellyfin on my server which was advertised as "just working easy" and in reality had to be debugged daily, then no thanks

frosty oar
#

there is the aquara deadbolts, but those are mortise locks which most likely means you'll have to replace your entire door depending on where you are located

blazing compass
#

Im european

frosty oar
#

you probably are using mortise locks then

#

is fingerprint unlock not a option?

winged knoll
#

Nuki locks are worth a look

blazing compass
#

If theyre secure enough then it could be a decent alternative

frosty oar
#

i mean your hand is already on the handle and fingerprint reading is faster than waiting for your phone to connect

blazing compass
#

ive just seen a lot of shitty fingerprint locks (non frontdoor locks)

#

and am weary of those

frosty oar
#

your best bet at this point is just buy any Google Assistant compatible smart lock and use when you arrive/leave location as your automation trigger

#

I rarely use this and not sure what sort of conditions it could falsely trigger and just unlock your front door for anyone

#

you arrive home, it triggers, checks again later when you are already home, unlocks your door again

#

more hassle than it's worth so I would just get something that works with a NFC fob/card/smartwatch

blazing compass
#

i had a google home and had those setup for turning the lights on and off, and it did so randomly throughout the day

#

Which is why i sold my google homes, they were atrocious

frosty oar
#

I use tasker to run my automations for leave/arrive

#

works fine for me, but its probably more setup than its worth for you

winged knoll
#

Works with European locks/doors, supports fingerprint unlock, or you can use your phone, or a fob

frosty oar
#

There is the Aquara A100, best lock i see currently as far as smart doorlocks go, has NFC fob, fingerprint, and homekit as options for unlocking

winged knoll
#

Also integrates with HA

blazing compass
#

Does these work completly independent, or based on a smarthome hub?

frosty oar
blazing compass
#

I do have a raspberry pi, and if its easy and reliable i might, but to my experience, no linux setup ever is

frosty oar
#

i mean even if the door auto unlocks you still need one hand to turn the handle

frosty oar
#

fingerprint sensor right on the handle

winged knoll
blazing compass
#

I don't mind a fingerprint sensor, if it works and is as secure as a normal lock

winged knoll
blazing compass
#

I use linux for work, and the OS is so damn fragile

winged knoll
#

I've run Linux systems that have been 100% stable for years, but the Pi is sub-par hardware and will always be a problem

blazing compass
#

thats linux gui tho

frosty oar
#

Pi is ok for the OS, hardware is underpowered

#

most issues i've had is usually software/drivers

frosty oar
#

i've run my homelab on linux for years, haven't had any issues

winged knoll
#

I've run Linux for business critical servers and never had a problem

#

Well, other than those I caused myself 😄

blazing compass
#

Linux server is a lot better than gui, but linux software, especially open sourced ones, are very hit and miss, even the hits are very prone to stupid errors

frosty oar
winged knoll
#

You've had some bad luck, or some overly high expectations... there's lots of very solid open source software out there - some of which underpins many commercial offerings you use every day

#

Hell, before MS finally moved it to Windows Hotmail ran on open source

#

Actually ran better there than on Windows

frosty oar
#

i mean if you use iOS and don't mind the walled garden, the software and hardware integration is very good

#

comes at a cost

blazing compass
#

Im not sure if this is a good or bad sign, but any of the retailers in my entire country who was supposed to sell the agara a100 doesnt have it on their websites

frosty oar
#

maybe check for the other models

#

samsung also does have door locks, not sure how well those work with proximity unlock

blazing compass
#

i dont even believe you can buy the agara a100 in europe 😄

frosty oar
#

i've seen people get them in Canada and we don't even use mortise locks here

blazing compass
#
Currently, the A100 Smart Lock is available in China, Singapore, and Malaysia.

While there are plans to expand distribution, there are no plans at this time to release the lock in the EU or US.
frosty oar
#

the magic of aliexpress lol

blazing compass
#

Yeah... Im not super fond of the idea of having my home security in the hands of aliexpress

frosty oar
#

aliexpress is just the platform for sellers to sell stuff, same as amazon, ebay, etc

blazing compass
#

I am aware, but i just trust amazon more than aliexpress. id also never use ebay

frosty oar
#

im probably at 1200+ orders on aliexpress, never had any issue

blazing compass
#

what in the world are you buying that often on aliexpress?

frosty oar
#

i buy stuff for hobbies

#

screws, microcontrollers, sensors, etc

blazing compass
#

i dont have 1500 online orders.. probably ever

frosty oar
#

when you can buy it on ali for $0.80 and it costs $15 on amazon for the exact same thing, you'll quickly realize amazon isn't worth it

blazing compass
#

the a100 doesnt seems to have proximity unlocking, but fingerprint might be a good alternative

frosty oar
#

because proximity unlocking isn't a good idea lol

blazing compass
#

well if youre in my country it isnt, any chinese imports have like 25$ import charge

#

flat fee, and like 80% purchase price in import VAT

frosty oar
#

im pretty sure thats already established but if you still want to do it, buy any smart lock and setup geofencing

#

whether or not its reliable is going to be up to whatever rules you put so it doesn't somehow automatically unlock your door at 4am

#

grab a giant antenna, boost the signal from your phone and now it looks like your close enough, door auto unlocks

shell tide
#

Home Assistant installed on an Intel NUC 11 i5 512 GB flash and connected on a 2.5GB network port. Backups uploading to Dropbox were slow as well as nabu.casa connection has gotten painfully slow and tried to copy off a backup locally to see why it's 10GB, connected to the local web address as well as SMB on the same subnet and the download speed is 700kbps to 2MBs for either. Restarted the NUC and isn't any better. Any ideas on why it's dialup speed over a 2.5GB port?

shell tide
#

Yes, 250kbps

golden thorn
#

Could try iperf. What ip are you connecting to? What device do you use to connect to it? How is it connected to the network?

shell tide
#

I tested from a few machines, windows (10GB), debian(25GB), macbook (wifi-7) speed doesn't change. HA is ethernet 2.5GB

golden thorn
#

Run apk add iperf3 in the SSH addon, then start a iperf3 server on one of your devices and run a test to it.

#

Please also share ha network info and ip a.

outer knotBOT
#

@shell tide I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:

shell tide
#

Do you have to start iperf3 on HA?

golden thorn
#

I'm not sure you could reach it. Hence the suggestion to start the server on the other side. I'm mobile so my researching ability is hampered quite a bit.
grep -R . /sys/class/net/*/speed should tell you the NIC speed.

outer knotBOT
#

@shell tide I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:

shell tide
#

It's 2500 and all the virtuals are 10,000

golden thorn
#

Seems like it negotiated 2.5G fine. Just a variable that can be excluded.

outer knotBOT
#

@shell tide I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:

shell tide
#

iperf seems to check out at the negotiated nic speed

golden thorn
#

Hmm.

shell tide
#

writing to a NAS connected at 25GB with Samba Backup is also less that 2-3 MBs

#

A 11GB backup file should take less than 30 seconds

#

downloading from the web interface is the same

golden thorn
#

You could try to use curl to push something directly to the NAS via SMB/SFTP/SCP via the SSH addon's CLI.

#

Maybe you could also check some system stats while downloading with the glances addon.

shell tide
jagged crypt
#

to summarize. IPERF from host->nas works at line rate. but perf from docker container to NAS (or anywhere else) does not?

shell tide
#

Basically yes

jagged crypt
#

are you having MTU issues on docker bridging?

glacial oracle
#

is this a syno nas with a 10gbe port?

shell tide
#

Qnap is connected via 25GB

jagged crypt
#

you see the same "relative" perf issues when using the internet, which is faster than 750kbps

glacial oracle
#

hm weird, syno had an issue with virtual routing which completely killed the upload

jagged crypt
#

found your "ip a" output, no obvious mtu issue

shell tide
#

The dropback Add-On was also taking forever, was hitting 40MBs

#

9000 on the switch and NAS

jagged crypt
#

it's 1500 on the primary ethernets and docker virt bridges in your above paste (which woudn't cause issues with the nas)

shell tide
#

Correct

jagged crypt
#

so we've isolated to something within docker->host networking due to the iperf working

shell tide
#

I would agree with that based on what I am seeing

jagged crypt
#

and I assume you've rebooted (ie, tried turning it off and on again)

shell tide
#

Yes, complete shutdown and power up

jagged crypt
#

any HA/HACS plugins that would potentially be dropping things, shifting to ipv6, etc?

shell tide
#

Not sure on that, can IPv6 be disabled on HA?

#

Is the docker layer in Home Assistant Core, just saw an update drop?

jagged crypt
#

just trying to remove variables

#

are you doing any v6 in the house?

#

network capture wireshark/tcpdump between HA and NAS while trying to do a copy may show something obivious (like a million retransmissions, or something similar)

shell tide
#

no IPv6

jagged crypt
#

yeah ok, i'm going down the "wild/random checkboxes"

#

only other thing would be if there is some weird mac address collision?

#

so it's constantly fighting for an ip address or similar, any smart filters on the switches?

shell tide
#

I disabled all of the fw and switch filters yesterday, so pretty much wide open. I might enable them again and re-run IPERF to rule them out

#

HA is setup on a dhcp reservation on Unifi network gear.

jagged crypt
#

yah, so unifi will report duplicate ip addrs

#

you are running two networks 10/23 and 172/23, what's your routing for that

shell tide
#

HA is in a 10.11.12.0/23

#

I assume 172 is docker/virtuals on HA

jagged crypt
#

you're running two networks on same layer2 (which is fine) no vlans?

glacial oracle
#

docker uses the 172 for its virtual networking

shell tide
#

just one network on the VLAN HA is on

#

IPv6 Support is disabled on the Unifi side

golden thorn
#

You could boot a live ubuntu to single out if it's HAOS related or not. Might make testing easier too.

shell tide
#

IPERF results kind of speak to the server hardware and network being ok

golden thorn
#

You'd also have a GUI to check wireshark and stuff like that.

#

That hardware is the biggest overkill/waste just running HAOS I've ever seen btw 😄

shell tide
#

I will tackle that tomorrow if time permits

#

I was what I had at the time

#

wattage is surprising low for what it is.

#

At least compared to the network, storage, and virtual stacks 🤔

#

Typically 13-15 watts

jagged crypt
golden thorn
#

I'd have virtualized HAOS (and many other things) on such a machine. I actually didn't think of tshark or tcpdump and I'm a big fan of the CLI and TUIs.
Not sure if being in a docker container makes it harder though. The packages for alpine are conveniently named tshark and tcpdump if you want to try.
You can use alpine's file search utility to find the package that contains a specific binary: https://pkgs.alpinelinux.org/contents

shell tide
#

I started there but struggled with Z-Wave USB dongle and vSphere pass through and couldn't find something network attached.

golden thorn
#

I use Proxmox VE and USB passthrough is extremely painless. I never used vSphere so I can't compare.

shell tide
#

Might tool around with Proxmox and try to move from the vSAN to Proxmox. Does Proxmox do virtualized storage between cluster nodes?

golden thorn
jagged crypt
#

you aren't going to get High-Availability of the usb ports

#

but storage can be mapped to ZFS volumes on local system of a cluster, or a SAN

shell tide
#

Still better than the single point of failure today.

jagged crypt
#

if you are running a zigbee stick, you have a single point of failure

#

if you are running it off a SAN, that's a single point of failure, depending on your storage setup

#

ability to recover rapidly is more important

golden thorn
jagged crypt
#

still a single point of failure, just not HA anymore 🙂

#

(obviously the goal would be migrate your single point to the least-complex item, to reduce the chances of failure)

shell tide
#

I have the Tubes Zigbee and it works great. Need to USB pass through Z-Wave and Insteon PLM.

patent river
shell tide
broken stirrup
#

Hi,

I am looking for a mini pc for home assistant setup.

I am getting good reviews on the GMKTec mini PC

Is it worth for 254NZD after discount for 8gb RAM 512GB SSD and Intel Alder Lake N100?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGD5VFFH?&linkCode=sl1&tag=e074d-20&linkId=e9ce3fcdec124a678ebb8dfe8bd3181f&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

Thank you,

Gokul

hollow axle
knotty nacelle
#

Does anyone know some good GU10 zigbee lights (which have optionally zigbee repeater functionality as well) (EU - Belgium)

outer knotBOT
#

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

  • Which country you're in
  • What your budget is
  • What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
  • Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
winged knoll
#

Anything other than Sengled will be a repeater

plush smelt
# undone arch yw, keep me updated if it works or not 🙂

Hi, this is a weird one but a couple of weeks ago I was asking if you could use a small magnet to trick open the sensor in ha, and we weren't sure and I said I'd test and get back to you

I just tested and it 100% works - you can have the big part somewhere and instead of the small part of the door sensor, you can use a magnet to "open" the sensor

undone arch
plush smelt
full frost
#

Hey guys, how do I make a simple on/off switch like this smart? It just has some led garagelighting on there.

winged knoll
#

Connect a switch module to it

full frost
#

Hey there @winged knoll been a while

winged knoll
#

You get neutral and no-neutral options

full frost
#

hey thanks for that man! i have to check that out, do you have experience with this kind of hardware?

winged knoll
#

I've used them before, none currently installed but there's one on my desk waiting for a free day

full frost
#

Im not that skilled with electical circuits, allthough ive rewired most of my house, its worth a try i gues

winged knoll
#

It's not that hard, mostly, as long as you follow instructions and turn off the power before working on things

#

I've rewired many a thing in the past and only got into trouble when things were still powered

full frost
#

Hah, i mostly commando that...i hate powering off

shell tide
shell tide
# jagged crypt still a single point of failure, just not HA anymore 🙂

Bad SFP28 DAC cable on the uplink to the Agg switches, swapped it out to a SFP28 optic and cable and can max out the 2.5GB on HA! iperf results were from another machine on the same switch and vlan. Nabu/Casa connection is also snappy again. It showed OK in the GUI and 25GB uplink, but must have been port flapping. Thanks for your help!

glacial oracle
#

That sounds like fun to debug

jagged crypt
#

Were you running 2.5 into a 10gig port? No all SFP's deal with that properly. DAC may not either. I have Copper 10gig sfp running 2.5 into my internet uplink without issues, but just got lucky (I originally bought it when my uplink was 10gig copper).

winged smelt
#

Hi, I am new to this.
I have browsed HAOS topics and Zigbee2MQTT, but I have not found what I am looking for (at least not in the language I understand).
I have a problem that I loose my zigbee China rgbw controller and Lidl sensor and one or two lamps. One day they are not on the device list. Not at the same time.
In the logs I do not see anything -searched for disconnected, removed. But nothing.
I have noticed that it could coincide with HAOS updates (core, os). As long as I do not update everything seems to work.
Maybe a HAOS restart as it also happens at the same time.

winged knoll
#

99.9999% likely you have an interference problem

winged smelt
orchid glen
#

2 home automation system nextvto each other

#

Is it possible to run a development HA and an operation HA system next to each other.?
.

tacit burrow
orchid glen
#

Lyricnz , thanks for your response. What is mdns?

winged knoll
#

The magic that allows http://homeassistant.local:8123/ to work

orchid glen
keen warren
#

Hey! hey does anyone know a smart valve sensor that has a high water pressure rating. I bought one but it was limiting my water supply to the point I had to send it back. I use zigbee so that would be ideal

glacial oracle
#

a valve sensor?

sudden moss
#

Hello! To start a 'fresh' installation... it's RPI 4 of 4/8GB a good choice?

winged knoll
#

Please don't crosspost

slender silo
#

I got a tuya smart plug with energy monitor. The plug is visible in HA, only the energy monitor is not found. Is there I way I can make this work?

slim lagoon
slender silo
slim lagoon
heavy terrace
#

Re-posting from #general-archived - Does anyone know of a smoke alarm that can be connected (I.E. zigbee/zwave) but also inter-connect? I'd like them all to go of if 1 goes off even if HA is down. If there's one where I can trigger the siren from HA, then I could make that as an automation, but would like the alarms to do it on their own.

I saw some discussion on this in Feb. I'm coming into a small business building that doesn't really have anything and wired isn't really an option given the cinderblock. I'd be fine w/alarms that just talk to eachother if I could notify HA about that somehow

slender silo
slim lagoon
#

Happens to the best of us... lol

gloomy dawn
#

anyone have any candellabra bulbs that work with HA? my vent hood uses candellabra style bulbs and im trying to find some that will work with HA, so that i can have them turn on when I turn on my undercabinet lighting

slim lagoon
# gloomy dawn anyone have any candellabra bulbs that work with HA? my vent hood uses candellab...

Depending on where in the world you are, Wiz makes color changing WiFi candellabra bulbs that are pretty cheap and there's a direct integration with HA. If you want to spend a bit more, Hue also has them as well (ZHA/Z2M needed). I have a couple of the Wiz bulbs and they are fantastic.

https://www.wizconnected.com/en-us/p/modern-bulb-candle-40w-b12-e12/046677603526

gloomy dawn
#

nice. same thing right?

#

actually i dont see that those say e12

slim lagoon
#

Yup, LOOKS like the same thing... BUT... if you're in the US, check Walmart. For some reason they carry the full line of Wiz bulbs cheaper than even Amazon.

gloomy dawn
#

nevermind i do

#

dont see them in stores at wally world

slim lagoon
#

Hold on, I'll throw up a link.

#

Or I won't... yeah, doesn't look like they have the E-12.

#

The other place to get Wiz bulbs in a brick and mortar is Home Depot.

#

And should anyone ask if I actually like the Wiz bulbs... lol

gloomy dawn
#

none in stock locally

#

ill just order a pair on amazon

slim lagoon
#

Bah... that sucks. Yeah, sounds good.

gloomy dawn
#

dumb question... will i able to set the dimmness on them etc... ?

slim lagoon
#

Yup. Dimming and colors and white temp as well.

gloomy dawn
#

ok cool

#

yea i need 3000k and will want to fiddle with dimming to match the undercab lighting

slim lagoon
#

Seriously, for the price, they are actually really good bulbs.

#

I typically run mine between 2700-3000 myself. But, I also use the effects a lot as well. For one of my automations, I flip a couple of the bulbs into "party" mode and they color shift without having to do anything fancy in the automation. Bonus in my mind. 🙂

gloomy dawn
#

working on the left side undercab lighting. but got worried itd look weird if i didnt run the undercab lighting under the vent hood. but thatd be considerably more work and less clean

slim lagoon
#

Oh yeah, I get what you're saying... The right side looks clean though!

gloomy dawn
#

so hopefully using the wiz bulbs in the hood will get me what im wanting

slim lagoon
#

I think you'll be happy with them. I used to be all zigbee for my bulbs until I found them and I haven't gone back since. I was up to around 60 of them, but decided to pare back a few lol

gloomy dawn
#

so they are wifi only?

slim lagoon
#

Yup

gloomy dawn
#

ok. should be fine. ive got a nice wifi network, on ups's etc...

slim lagoon
#

But, and this is the weird part, they use REALLY good wifi chips. Still only 2.4ghz, but out of all the ones I have/had, only a couple ever dropped off the network.

gloomy dawn
#

full unifi etc... with 3 ap's

slim lagoon
#

Oh yeah, you'll be fine. I have Unifi, but even without it, they barely generate any traffic.

#

SAME

gloomy dawn
#

aight i got an led question

#

i guess my main question is, can i run a 233" run of these led's?

slim lagoon
#

233"? I mean, you could... but I can almost guarantee you'll have to do power injection and a lot of it.

gloomy dawn
#

the dumb electrician burried the led control module and power supply in the wall, behind the backsplash, so i cant see what its rated for

#

lemme grab a pic of the whole area

slim lagoon
#

Given that's 24v LEDs (I'm going to assume SMD 5050s), you'll probably need to power inject about every 5-6 feet? I might be wrong about that though. I've never had a run of 24v more than 12 feet, but I did a single power injection at 6' just to be on the safe side.

gloomy dawn
#

(Forgive the mess. i had to clear those counters and throw it all on the bar, + tools and shit for the project at hand)

#

so somewhere around that red rectangle on the right side is the power supply and such. a wire comes out r ight there, where the strip you see lit up is

#

then right above where you see the cast iron skillet on the stove, another pair of wires comes out with 24 v.

#

and thats it. thats the only powered wires i have coming out of the wall

#

the wire to the right of the sink window has no voltage (and is ethernet?)

#

and that ethernet cable jumps power over to under the cedar shelf

#

that make sense?

#

so basically they wired it up to run that full corner, then loop back into the ethernet to bridge power over to the cedar shelf. and im unsure if i can run a continuous like that far, especially with the tail end being ethernet cable

#

i guess lemme go try to run it all as one and see what happens

glacial oracle
#

that doesnt look like too much length

cold moon
# gloomy dawn

you arent sticking bare tape to the underside of the cabinets are you?

gloomy dawn
#

no ive got aluminum tracks with diffusers

slim lagoon
#

Yeah, in thinking about it... 233" of 24v, you should be fine without power injection or maybe power inject at the last 3-4'?

gloomy dawn
#

just not sure i really can?

glacial oracle
#

its just plain white, it should be fine without till about 10m length

slim lagoon
#

Yeah, I was reading your message there.

gloomy dawn
#

i only have 2 voltage out pairs of wires. the last 3 to 4 feet is the ethernet cable

cold moon
#

you dont need to even if you're underpowered you'd probably never notice it

slim lagoon
#

That's kinda what I'm thinking too... may not need injection at all.

gloomy dawn
#

ok ill go try it. is ethernet kosher with this?

glacial oracle
#

if you dont use it to carry data, yes

#

else it should stick to poe standards to avoid connected hw breaking

gloomy dawn
glacial oracle
#

at worst you can use multiple of those twisted pairs

#

should be fine

gloomy dawn
#

aight ill give it a w hirl

cold moon
#

it's probably builder grade CCA cat 5e or cat6 so i wouldnt try to put too many amps down it

patent river
#

A bit hard to tell from the picture, but that looks very 5e-ish to me, which would make it most likely 24awg.
If it is at least solid copper (definitely would want to confirm that), twisting half the wires together for each makes you approximately a 21awg cable, good for around 4A.

glacial oracle
#

that should be good for around 10m of that strip

gloomy dawn
#

yea it ssolid copper

#

what about for 1 pair, what kinda run can that make?

#

the ethernet is probably only a few feet max. in to the right side of the window, out to the left side of the window

glacial oracle
#

as in one pair for both pos and negative?

gloomy dawn
#

correct

#

single wires

glacial oracle
#

then its just 24awg

#

id guess less than 5ft its fine

gloomy dawn
#

aight. well the c edar shelf is a later project anyways

#

i cant really recesee the led track like i did in the cabinets. so my plan is to make a custom beer glass/wine glass holder (basically route out some dovetail's in another piece of wood, and tack it into the bottom). then i can hide the led track behind that

sudden moss
#

Hello!

#

What you think about this mini-PC to start my setup?

golden thorn
#

Please don't share affiliate links. But do share information about your setup.

gloomy dawn
#

boom

#

now if we could just avoid using the air fryer as a bread shelf

#

definitely going to have to double up some pairs of the ethernet for the jump over to the cedar shelves. i couldnt even get the the little connector blocks to bite the ethernet copper. was too thin

golden thorn
#

Looks like different color temperatures.

gloomy dawn
#

under the cabinets?

#

all the same leds and loop. i think its just that the bread blocks out a chuck of the light from the backsplash

golden thorn
#

Yeah looks like the under lights are warmer but this seems off-topic for this channel.

uncut ridge
#

looking for zigbee smart plug that is power monitoring. what do ya'll use?

viscid turret
#

i had bought some KS-501 style smart plugs that didn't advertise any kind of energy metering...

#

but... there's a bl0937 right there lmao

#

and the supplied software (which of course i threw away in favour of openbk) didn't support it?

#

gotta wonder what these smartplug manufacturers are thinking sometimes...

jade agate
#

anyone with a Shelly Blu button that knows how to enable hush mode.... it should be available, but no instructions how to? I like th little device but the beep is quite annoying...

terse pebble
cold moon
#

ask me how i know

glacial oracle
remote olive
#

Where can I find a replacement light fixture that’s RGB? does such a thing exist?

static horizon
#

Any recommendations for a local (no cloud) IR blaster that works with HA?

slim lagoon
modest pike
#

I am looking for a 12V switch that is wifi enabled. The things I find have an input current of 110-240 and might work on 12V, but I need something with all 12V. Any ideas/reference? Thanks in advance!

velvet warren
#

Smart thermostat recommendations that also work with Alexa?

#

For some reason I can't search messages in this channel

tacit pilot
#

Could anyone recommend a RF transmitter? I have a broadlink IR blaster I really like and was thinking of getting the RF one, but thought I'd ask to see what else is out there.

native pilot
#

bond bridge?

cold moon
#

you can make your own transceiver with esphome too

stone magnet
#

Oh crap… now I need to find a good power on gpu idle setup for https://llava-vl.github.io… so I can use it to describe objects from my camera snapshots

devout parrot
broken stirrup
#

Dell OptiPlex 7050 SFF
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro (digitally assigned).
CPU: Intel i5-7600.
Memory: 16 GB DDR4.
Storage: 1x 120GB SSD (Windows)…1x 500GB HDD (Storage).

or

Dell Optiplex 7040Micro:

i7-6700T
8gb ram ddr4
128gb ssd nvme
Windows 10 pro
Which one is better?

golden thorn
#

I'd pick the first unless there's space constraints.

broken stirrup
#

@golden thorn I got another offer for 250$. Is it worth it? The earlier ones were 200 and 230 NZDs

golden thorn
#

I can't tell you if the price is good for your region. What do you plan to do with it?

plush smelt
#

hey guys, this is going to be a weird question but is there anything i can integrate into HA that can be used as a sort of frequency detector? so as an example if you played a note on a piano it would tell you what note was played?

broken stirrup
#

Raspberry pi5 with everything costs 200nzd

#

I think it will help to scale the cost of hardwares

golden thorn
broken stirrup
#

I checked GMKtec mini PC but every import of the same hardware with 500 GB would cost nearly 300NZD. New Zealand is a hard place to get something cheaper.

golden thorn
#

What you linked is perfectly fine. Mini PCs are smaller and can usually idle lower.
Yours can be upgraded (change CPU, for example) and has more space for extensions (Via PCIE, for example). Buy what fits your needs.

broken stirrup
#

I would love a mini pc but I've to import it. The one in the screenshot I can just go and get it.

plush smelt
broken stirrup
plush smelt
# broken stirrup The southern hemisphere doesn't exist!

i know right! it's so infuriating! and then if you're trying to find some kind of smart product and people/youtube suggest like 30 different products only to find the only ones available here are philips hue bulbs and that's it! so annoying!

warm orbit
plush smelt
broken stirrup
plush smelt
clever kelp
#

Anyone got a good tutorial for flashing bulbs with custom firmware so I can use them locally?

glacial oracle
#

That would vastly depend both on the bulb and the firmware

earnest vale
#

Does anyone know of a good looking way to label switches? I'm trying to achieve a reasonably professional finish but not fully satisfied with my latest attempt using clear labels. The labels I bought don't have the most even coating of adhesive on them so I might try some higher quality ones (e.g. Avery). I had a look at laser engraving but I've only got a CO2 laser and seems a fibre laser is needed to mark the plastics used in these zigbee switches

tacit pilot
#

You have to watch the logs and manually copy over each command

#

Surprised this hasn't been integrated in with the remote.learn_command service

devout parrot
#

It's a little easier with OpenMQTTGateway, you just press the button and copy the contents of the mqtt message, but still a little more hands on than broadlink.

tacit pilot
#

You can send an event to HA with the codes, but there's no method of storing them like remote.learn_command does

#

Actually it seems like that service is specific to broadlink. I wonder if there's some more general method in HA of storing remote commands to recall later

cold terrace
#

Are virtualized firewalls a good idea? My workplace is cheap, I'm wondering if I should run opnsense in proxmox (to run multiple applications) or run opnsense bare metal

stone magnet
cold terrace
#

prob gonna run it bare metal. the host is gonna be a wyse 5070 extended with a j5005 CPU

#

just a small office setup with <50 clients

#

the IT guy wasted our entire budget already on not IT so I'm in this weird position where I'm donating hardware 🤷‍♀️

gray atlas
#

anyone know of a rf and ir remote replacement that works w/ alexa and home assistant? my rf Hunter fan remote is a pile of crap... doesn't hardly work 10ft away.

#

and no it's not the batteries

#

a good one

#

zigbee would be nice

paper fern
#

Hi Everyone, I am having trouble adding aqara door/window magnetic contact sensor (Model MCCFQ11LM) to Home Assistant. I have read mixed reviews of people that have successfully used these devices and some that say they dont work. All feedback is appreciated. Thanks in advance !!!

#

I have a conbee II usb stick whit home assistant blue

#

and I am using ZHA

#

Just realized I had a typo in the model. Model is MCCGQ11LM

simple zinc
paper fern
#

@The Automator Thanks !!!. One of the posts I read suggested that the conbee II may not be listening well due to inteference. I have placed the device less that 1 foot away from the coordinator. Would you recommend the sonoff zigbee dongle over the new skyconnect coordinator?

simple zinc
#

I was using most basic zigbee dongle for years (same as old Raspberry Pi 3), but now made upgrade to Raspberry Pi 5 + SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle.
So far, no obvious issues around. 🙂

paper fern
#

I will order one now. Thanks again.

cold terrace
#

the dongle e and the skyconnect should be the same thing

#

same chip different casing/antenna layout

simple zinc
#

If I have sonoff basic wired up with tasmota integration, do i need to specify MQTT setup as well?
Feels like currently this is my point of failure, where automation relies on tasmota, but it just turns off from time to time

visual temple
#

Any recommendations for a good quality UPS? (US-based; budget <$250)

tacit pilot
gray atlas
#

really both tbh

#

but i'm thinking a hub would tie into ha

#

I'm in US if that helps

#

needs 433mhz

#

apparently

#

according to current remote

tacit pilot
#

I just ask because if you're just looking to control the fan itself all you need is something to send out RF signals which a hub does. The means with which you cause that to happen doesn't need to be a rf remote. You could just use your phone, and interact with a HA dashboard, etc

gray atlas
#

yeah that works

#

do you know of any that are good / work well w/ ha

tacit pilot
#

I actually just ordered the BroadLink RM4 pro

gray atlas
#

i think that's the one i was looking at on amazon

tacit pilot
#

I have the mini which only does IR and it's great. You make a service call to listen for commands, press the button on your remote, and then it learns them and you can play them back

gray atlas
#

ah ok

tacit pilot
gray atlas
#

ok i guess that's where I'll go... w the pro

tacit pilot
#

Which actually looks pretty nice. My main issue there was there wasn't as nice of a user experience for learning commands

#

I think if I were to get another one I'd try that route just to see how I like it

gray atlas
#

eh, i'm looking for something on the more baked side so i guess i'll go w/ the RM4 Pro

#

ty

#

but that does look like an interesting project

tacit pilot
#

Yeah I wouldn't have minded diying it a bit, but usually that also means the final usual experience is actually going to be better but it isn't in this case

tacit pilot
#

Not sure if that also does IR though

slim lagoon
#

Second vote for the BroadLink RM4 Pro. I have one controlling my office. Not bad for the price (coming from multiple Harmony Hubs).

naive flicker
#

can anyone suggest me a sensor which can read light in FC (foot candle), I like plants and would like to read the FC levels of some locations during the day. Most sensors read in Lux but FC would be ideal

#

Please @ me if you have a suggestion as Im going to bed now 🙂

delicate harness
naive flicker
#

With that information, an accurate lux sensor also suffices. 🙂

twin bane
#

Morning everyone 👋 I have a quick question. couldn't find it on anywhere on the website.
Is Power-over-ethernet version of Home Assistant Yellow compatible with Power Supply also ?

twin bane
spare trail
#

Hi, I am using ha os on my qnap ts-253D in a virtual machine. Can anyone give me a tip for a cheap compatible zigbee stick?

shell solstice
#

does anyone know a smart device like this?

slim lagoon
oak scarab
#

Camera recommendations? Need WiFi, solar, local storage and RTSP support

#

Going in a tree

glacial oracle
#

would solar even work considering its under a tree? battery powered solutions would be kinda not great to recommend in general

oak scarab
#

There IS an outlet sticking out of the ground under the tree but then someone could just unplug it

drifting grove
#

Hello everyone, how can I turn off the leds of the Ethernet port of the pi5?

I tried

dtparam=eth_led0=4

dtparam=eth_led1=4

and it doesn't work...
On piOS everything works instead...

#

Sorry if this isn’t the right section

oak scarab
#

A piece of electrical tape

drifting grove
#

😐 In this way they are all good ... Then I really want to see how you put it with the Ethernet cable tucked inside 👀

oak scarab
#

U have an NVME in ur pi?

drifting grove
oak scarab
#

Nice

golden thorn
#

When have you last updated the pi's firmware? Which OS version/kernel are you running?

drifting grove
#

I ran sudo rpi-update yesterday with piOS in the sd (home assistant is in the ssd)

drifting grove
golden thorn
drifting grove
#

In fact, on piOS the LEDs go out

#

While in home assistant OS no...

golden thorn
vocal meadow
#

Is this the right topic area to ask for recommendations on a temp and humidity sensor that is “waterproof”?

drifting grove
stone magnet
drifting grove
golden thorn
ashen apex
#

Anyone know if IKEA have discontinued their 5-button remote? Couldn't find any at my local on the weekend, and it's not on their website any more. All they have now is 2 or 4-button ones. Anyone got any suggestions for a decent replacement 5-button one (preferably AAA)?

terse pebble
#

Yes, it has been discontinued

jade agate
pallid flint
#

are there any can lights or downlights that are compatable with HA? not bulbs. these are new lights that are getting installed.

bleak mauve
#

Does anyone know if Home assistant can you run both zigbee (ZHA) and Zwave coordiantors and devices at the same time? Of course given that I have each coordinator (Zigbee and a Zwave).

slim lagoon
pallid flint
slim lagoon
# pallid flint Zigbee or Wi-Fi or matter but i would prefer local control. i try to avoid clou...

Zemismart makes a bunch of them: https://www.zemismart.com/collections/smart-light-419. Wiz also makes a couple as well and you can block them from the internet and use them local only.

jagged crypt
slim lagoon
jagged crypt
#

I run a bunch of wiz-wifi lights, that also work, and in my case were about $10/light (vs $40 for hue ones). Some tweaking on my 2.4ghz network and they work solidly. Need to use phone app to setup initially i think, and then direct non-cloud control.

slim lagoon
bleak mauve
# slim lagoon Yes, absolutely.

that's awesome. I currently have zigbee and WiFi devices. What I need is an outdoor smart plug. A long time ago in a galaxy far far away called Amazon, I purchased an outdoor zigbee smart plug (Enbrighten) however it looks like they dont make them anymore. However they do have them in Zwave, hence why I ask if you can run Zigbee and Zwave systems at the sametime in HA.

jagged crypt
#

My unifi network config:
2.4 only, proxy-arp=on, bandsteering=off, bss transition=off, minimum data rate control=manual, both options set to 1mbps. Proxy-arp setting is the setting that reduced the latency (assumption is the esp32 doesn't deal with the broadcast packets as fast, arp's).

slim lagoon
bleak mauve
pallid flint
#

thanks

slim lagoon
hazy carbon
#

Do you know a good light sensor that can work with ha?

glacial oracle
#

the hue motion detector should have a light sensor on board

winged knoll
#

If you want a dedicated one then Xiaomi do a couple of really good ones

golden thorn
hazy carbon
#

thanks

hazy carbon
outer knotBOT
hazy carbon
#

perfect thanks

hazy carbon
#

Does it connect to a remote server or it just uses ha? Sorry but possible dumb question.

slim lagoon
#

I don't believe so, no. I think it uses your location in HA and then calculates based upon that. But, I'm not 100% certain of that.

fringe crater
#

I think IoT class Calculated tells you it does not go to an external server.

slim lagoon
#

Ahhhh yeah, correct.

hazy carbon
#

thanks

#

I have 2 different types of lights (outdoor spotlights) that I want to turn on based on the light sensor. I was thinking about using some smart plugs, do you have any other suggestion for that?

slim lagoon
# hazy carbon I have 2 different types of lights (outdoor spotlights) that I want to turn on b...

I actually do both. I have a computed average lux sensor that gets the average lux outside and then turns on lights that way. I also have automations that run minutes before or after sunrise using the Sun integration (closing curtains, increasing brightness in some rooms, etc). They both work equally well EXCEPT when it's storming here and the lights come on because they think it's too dark outside 😉

#

But using smart plugs to turn on outside flood lights? I'd just keep it simple and use the Sun sensor. At sunset, turn them on. At sunrise, turn them off. Dead simple automation.