#hardware-archived
1 messages Ā· Page 56 of 1
you could probably go and buy one of those aquara th&t sensors, mount it in a place where its somewhat hidden from madness and have it be not battery powered
alternatively anything that has a dedicated temp probe will work
I've stuck one under the eaves and it's survived the winter, but it's been relatively mild here this year (down to about 0F only once)
-18c is mild š®
Well, I'd expect it to get down around there more than once
Hmm. Could maybe make my own with a Raspberry Pi. Thereās a bunch of old weather station guides on the internet.
Our winters are extremely mild. Rarely do we ever get below freezing here.
making your own is fairly simple
just be aware that sensors that are "waterproof" likely are not ^^
When the listing says ārequires Aquara hub, not support hubs from other brandsā is that not concerning to anyone? Iāve heard a few other recommendations for Aquara products.
that depends on the product
Zigbee stuff is pretty universal
i think the presence sensor may need it for some configuration things if i recall
not sure if i remember this right
the FP1 doesn't, but that's Zigbee
Aqara thermometer is $15 on Amazon rn, so I went ahead and bought it despite winter being almost over.
I could use it in an area away from my main thermostat for now or something. I have an idea where I can put it that would protect it from the elements though. Eventually, Iāll probably create my own raspberry pi based system.
i believe chyna app is needed for configuration of zones and that kind of advanced thing but then those are exposed via homekit protocol over wifi for fully local. so local after not local lol
Im probably just tired and grumpy, but how do I add my v1 hue dimmer switches into HA
You add them to a zigbee mesh
recommend me a esphome smart plug for US please, link to amazon or alixpress
I'm looking to setup a temp/humidity sensor in a few rooms. Is there a benefit to using a full esp32 vs the esp8266 which is cheaper and people seem to usually use.
Also, how are these sensors for doing this?
3PCS BME280 3.3V Atmospheric Pressure Sensor GY-BME280-3.3 Temperature Humidity Sensor Module for Arduino https://a.co/d/i4XHGCw
ACEIRMC 4pcs Si7021 GY-21 SHT21 HTU21 Digital Humidity Temperature Sensor Module Replace SHT11 SHT15 https://a.co/d/bi6rx8A
I also planned on using it for Bluetooth presence sensor.
Hi, how can i find what type of CPU do i have? š on HA instance
Might show up there.
Yup i started from there, but only can know its 4 core cpu. Want to remember i3 or i5 and what type :/
I'd run lscpu or cat /proc/cpuinfo on a normal OS. Try if that works in SSH. Can't test myself right now.
You can also check the BIOS/UEFI if it's a normal PC.
cat /proc/cpuinfo worked, thanks š
hmm, not much hardware knowledge. Always though i5 is better than i3 :/
6200U vs 6100T seems as same year cpus, but i3 is faster because its for desktop and i5 laptop model?
Is it possible to use HA to manage TP-Link switch LED behavior or do I have to use the app?
Posted in general but was told this would be a better section to post this question...
I have a kitchen light fixture on two 3-way switches. Both will be wifi switches, Lutron Caseta. I want to control a led wifi controller using those switches so whenever the kitchen fixture is on, so is the led strip. Not sure how this would work with 3 way switches since they aren't really in an on/off position.
Oh I did not realize you already had switches picked out, I thought you were looking for recommendations to buy switches. Do you already have them integrated?
Oh sorry about that. No I still need to install them. I was just about to do it but then figured I would ask before I opened them and realized my idea wouldn't work
I do have another light fixture with two 3-way switches (1 smart and 1 sumb). I was going to do some testing on that first
I'm not sure if it's different from TP-Link 3 way switches but you leave the mechanical switch on one end and install only 1 smart switch. I have three 3 way lights set up like that.
Has anyone seen an integration to the Hunter Fan simpleConnect?
So let's say both are in the off position and you turn the smart switch on, that will turn the led strip on but then what happens when you turn the dumb switch to the on position, which would turn the kitchen fixture off? Wouldn't that keep the led strip on since nothing changed with the smart switch?
I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to do. Does the LED strip only come on with one of the switches?
Wait, I reread the description
You essentially want the led strip to come on when the kitchen light comes on, right?
I have two switches controlling one light fixture right now (currently all dumb). I am installing under cabinet led strips with a wifi controller using wled. I want to control the led strip with those two switches to turn the led strip on and off when the kitchen light is on and off
Correct, regardless of the switch position, since they are 3 way switches
All you need is an automation binding the 2 together. Use 1 X 3 way smart switch and 1 dumb 3 way.
The dumb switch should set the state in the smart switch and you can use that to see when it's on
Really you will need to figure out how Caseta integration handles this specifically.
and then turn on the strip
Maybe you get a PressUp/PressDown event on either switch, maybe there's one entity for the combination of the three way circuit being on/off, I do not know.
I can be pretty sure it's not represented as two switch entities with on/off state, that wouldn't make sense.
Oh so the state of the smart switch internally is different than the position of the switch? I'm equating the actual switch position with it being on and off. But I think you are saying the smart switch doesn't care about the rocker position because it controls it internally
@weary stump Do you have a 3 way caseta with dumb switch now?
I will do a test, hang on
Another room, yes
Dimmer Caseta but still the same
Can you test something? Turn the light off from the smart switch then use the dumb switch to turn it on. Then look at your at your overview and see if the smart switch state is correct. It should be on.
It it is, as I suspect, then the state wil be on and you can use that to trigger your LED using an automation
Dimmer doesn't matter, as long as it's a properly installed 3 way
Let me know if thats the case then I can help you with automation
Ok so it seems to be ok. I made an automation for when family room light is on, led is on. Made another for family room light is off, led is off. Switching the dumb switch on turns the family room light on and also the toggle I have in overview for that light, then it turns the led strip on
Awesome.
I think it works as I want. But my only issue is it takes a few seconds for HA to register the switch position change so it takes a few seconds for the led strip to turn on and off
Not a big deal but would like it to be less of a delay
Is that possible?
Mine are instant. Is Casetta known for speed?
I am having issues with installing my SkyConnect (HA install is in docker(compose)) Which channel is best to ask for support?
Quick search seems to say 3 second delay from switch to hub
@weary stump Is the delay caused by the automation? When the light is off and you use the slave (dumb) switch to turn on the light how long until the status changes? If it's fast, the issue is in the automation
Just tested with the Lutron app and can confirm 3 to 4 second delay
Let me test mine, hang on a few minutes
I have about a 1 second delay. I just realized that TP link gives you 2 switches for a dimmer 3 way. Is that how yours work?
If so you are in luck
It seems like it is the switch sending info to the hub but not the other way around. If I turn the physical switch on or off, there is a 4 second delay with the lutron app and HA to show the switch being on or off. If I use the app or HA to turn the switch on or off, there is no delay
Is the one you are testing a dimmer?
2 physical switches? No Lutron comes with just the one dimmer smart switch. If I want the dumb switch to control the dimmer, I would need to get a dumb dimmer
Yes
The kitchen won't be a dimmer though
Introducing the Claro smart switch for Caseta smart lighting. Lutron's most popular switch design is now smart and works with your existing Caseta products. Match existing Claro switches in your home with the same elegant, recognized paddle style, updated to match existing Caseta products with an LED indicator light. Welcome Home to Peace of Min...
That is what I will have in the kitchen
Oh wait, I forgot the dimmer isn't caseta it is diva
Introducing the Diva smart dimmer switch for Caseta smart lighting. Lutron's #1 dimmer is now smart and works with your existing Caseta products. Match existing Diva LED+ dimmer switches in your home with the same elegant, recognized paddle style, updated to match existing Caseta products with an LED-backlit light bar. Use the smart hub to conne...
So Diva is what I'm using right now for testing. Caseta (not dimmer) will be what I am actually using in the kitchen
It sounds like it is the lutron hub that is the issue
So it looks like they basically did away with the dumb switch. You get 1 3 way master, and the slave is baically a remote so you don't need a traveller. Is that correct?
If so, you should have near instant response.
Here is what I was looking at
I believe you can set it up that way but you can also set it up with a dumb switch too
Mine are setup smart and dumb 3 way so I do have a 1 second state reporting delay
In my family room, the one I'm using for testing right now, I have the Diva on one side and my old dumb toggle style on the other
Does the dumb toggle switch slow down the smart switch?
Yes
If I made the dumb toggle switch a smart switch too, would that speed it up?
When you use the dumb switch, the smart switch needs a few moments to recognize the state.
But when I use the smart switch itself, it is also slow.
Answer is yes but you can go with the kit I showed you. The fact that the slave is hjust a remote, it should set the state instantly
Oh wait a minute! Thats another story
Yeah, using either switch has the same delay...I'll test again hold on
So when you use the light dircetly, it takes 2-4 seconds to report the correct state on the App?
Do you have any other automations on the switch you're testing?
Yup, both smart and dumb switches have the same delay showing in both Lutron and HA apps
No, only thing I have is a toggle within HA overview so I can turn it on and off using my google hub screen
Lets do this. Go to any regular casetta light switch with no automation, toggle it and see how long it takes to update status
Right now I don't have any. I could install the one going into my kitchen
I could also remove the automation from my diva right now
Casetta's are spendy but good. I suspect that there is soemthing else going on, such as an automation or other
But I would think the HA automation wouldn't impact the Lutron app
It would.
The issue is when you toggle the device, it will run through the automation regardless.
So if I delete the two WLED automations, that should be a good test, right?
Does the automation run of you triggr from the Lutron app?
Yes that would be a good test
The led automation I just set up runs off the switch
If that speeds things up, the issue is with how you wrote the automation script
I just used an And If set up
What we are trying to test is whether the swicth or automation is slow.
I would not write it that way
Deleted the two automations and still slow showing in the lutron app
Writing an actual script isn't something I have gotten into yet so I'm not quite sure how to do it
I just integrated a 4 button leviton scene controller switch and I used a trigger and devices to turn on off. No and
You can use the visual editor, I can help you walk through it. But the point is removing the automation didn't help much, right? What delay do you get when you toggle the actual swicth itself?
Correct, deleting the two automations (wled on and wled off) did not make the delay any better.
Both smart and dumb switches I get 3 to 4 second delay showing on the app
Did you buy the switch new? How old is it?
Yes new from HD. Year or two
Did you update the firmware using the Lutron app?
Can you give me the light switch model?
Didn't even think about an update through Lutron. One was available...updating now
The Diva is DVRF-6L-WH-R
I need to leave in a few minutes. let me know if the speed imrpoved after the update.
Will do, thanks for the help!
I will stick around until update is done. Curious to see why that switch is so slow.
60%
Standing by
80%
how can i detect lock state of my window locks? they are called cam locks and i dont have a lot of room on them. https://harveywindows.com/images/librariesprovider2/default-album/product-features/102015-mfg-doublehung-smithfield-ri-02_tabbed_inner_image_600x400.jpg?sfvrsn=6cc4dd2c_2
No dice, still slow
Only when going from light to app but when turning the light on through the app it is instant
Damn, should not be that slow, maybe someone else can help out. DO you have a lot of lutron switches?
Might just need to look into a different switch if I don't want this delay
No just this one
I highly recommend the TP-Link ones. Thye even have matter compatability on a few of them.
Also on sale on amazon and SUPER affordable. They have been recommended by a lot of the smart home guys.
I'll take a look at them. I really like the look of the Lutron ones but not a huge deal.
Would I need a TP Link hub?
Before you do that, ask someon in the forum to help you diagnose the issue and confirm it IS the switch. Would suck to replace it and you find out it's another issue. Cheers and good luck!
Yeah I'll so some more research on these Lutron switches before purchasing anything else. Thanks a lot for the help! At least I got the led strips to work as wanted. Just need to remove this delay
Tp link are Chinese shit this person started using home assistant yesterday whoās giving you adviceā¦
hello
Im quite struggling with getting my skyconnect up and running. I am using docker compose to run HA, but when approaching the hardware in HA and i click on configure skyconnect i get: The hardware options can only be configured on HassOS installations.
But i am sure people got it running through docker. The HA server does see the sky connect usb, hence the notification i cannot configure it..
Can somebody help me out?
Random question for you lot: I have an ecobee smart premium, which has a microphone and speaker built in for siri/alexa. Am i able to integrate this into HA voice assistant without breaking the thermostat function?
also, does anyone know if it's zigbee/zwave compatible? It's compatible via smartthings and homekit, but i'm not seeing any info on zigbee/zwave
Jump to #zigbee-archived
Depends on if the integration exposes that as a media player
No idea on microphone part
it does, i can play music throgh the speaker (freaks my boyfriend tf out lmao)
i have an option to mute the mic
Itās a Wi-Fi device but can be connected directly via HomeKit integration over WiFi
The room sensors are technically zwave but only work with the ecobee itself I believe
got it okay
Youād lose the microphone and media player over HomeKit I believe
You can test and let me know Iām curious. I have the older 3 lite model
i have it integrated via homekit integration over wifi, disconnected from ecobee servers.
does still play media via media integration in HA
can still mute the thermostat. not sure if it's actually seeing the microphone or just the option to turn it off
Nice thx
i don't see that the ecobee 3 Lite has a speaker/mic tho
Nope
so not sure if it would be helpful for you sorry lol
Thatās why I was curious on your results lol
Yea I know what my model does just wanted extra info for my brain about yours
oooh okok
What would you recommend for wifi with no delay? I like the Lutron and can live with the delay but would rather not if I can find something else
I wouldnāt recommend Wi-Fi light switches
Not many would
Depending on where you live and features needed / $ id buy zooz zwave or inovelli blue zigbee
And pair them with smart bulbs if you want color temp and rgb/w
Just saw inovelli blue are back in stock. I was holding off to get those for a long time and got tired of waiting which is why I went with Lutron.
I don't have anything besides wifi but I do have the zigbee usb stick for HA
Theyāre apparently amazing. I have and like zooz zwave light switches cuz I couldnāt justify double the cost for inovelli and the blues had firmware issues for a long time and I was holding back for that to get fixed too
The inovellis will also be a great backbone for your zigbee mesh to act as routers (repeaters) for other zigbee end devices like sensors as well
Although hue bulbs are also great at this
You can then bind hue bulbs to the inovellis so if hass is down light switches still work and then you still get rgbw fun for the bulbs
So future proofing in a way
Most of my switches go to canless pucks so the bulbs aren't much of a worry for me. I do have a few bulbs upstairs in lamps controlled by the lamp, not a switch
The rgb light bar on the inovelli switches themselves is often used as a status light for something like alarm system arm status or door lock status
Oh yeah, zooz is half the cost
I really like this thing for alarm control too. Ring but connected over zwave
It looks better in not shit lighting
I'm using thst one too and I'm quite happy with it.
I have literally zero complaints
I havenāt tried the other chimes yet
I think thereās a sea shanty in there
I don't have an alarm system. Do you use it for anything besides that?
Well you make your own alarm system with alarmo and your favorite door and window sensors
Which would connect to your zigbee or zwave mesh made from those light switches
Oh very cool
Itās very simple and thoroughly thought out
The inovelli blue worth double the price?
Iām still ironing out the kinks
My wallet says no but people who own both zooz and inovelli blues say yes
Apparently the switches themselves feel nicer to click when pushed in
And the led bar like I said above looks very nice irl
Zooz is a tiny little rectangle
Right now I have 1 Lutron in and another ready to be put in. I'll be adding maybe 5 or 6 more. Maybe I'll go with inovelli. If I were to replace them all, I'd go zooz for the price savings.
I do have and like the zooz zen30 double switch
5 buttons each with 1-5x tap, hold, long hold, etc with lights that can be synced to other things in home assistant like door lock status
I have each button and multi taps doing different things
The black paddles on inovelli with Lutron screw less plates look incredible
They send you white paddles installed plus the black to replace so worth getting one to test imo
I have yet to add anything zigbee. It sounds like it is easy to do
Yeah I like those but I'd probably have to replace all switches and outlets
Might look weird having half white and half black
so i did a bit of fiddling
the thermostat speaker is only seen through the music assistant add-on, which i couldn't figure out why for a while
turns out it's discovered via airplay
now i get to try and find an airplay integration to try and add speaker/mic ig lmao
Aircast addon
Err nvm
That adds airplay sound to non airplay devices like chromecast enabled devices
hmm i see
I'm too invested into Lutron to turn back at this point. Haha. I have I think 7 rooms and a hallway all controlled with it as well as my light switch for the exterior lighting. 3 of the rooms and the hallway have Pico's as well to cover the 3-way....
I have seen a lot of really nice switches come out since getting into Lutron, I was just way to far in to try them out...
Proprietary bridges aināt it chief
With that being said I believe theyāre local only integrated and ājust workā
Sunk cost fallacy as far as buying further into it tho
When I first started down this journey, Lutron was the best option for me at the time. As for sunk cost...I am basically as deep as I will get. all of the rooms I need automated are covered. Maybe 1 or 2 others would be convenient, but havent had much of a need.
I did pop in here to learn some more about recommendations for RGB strip lighting, Specifically assignable strips that I could use for under cabinet lighting. Something that is easy to split to custom lengths and add jumpers to. And then what controls those?
Cheap easy start is athom esp32 controller running wled + ws2812b 60/m ip30 + 5amp 5v psu + aluminum channels with diffusers + 18/3 led wire + jst-sm 3 pin
I need to redo it but itās decent
Do you perhaps have links to each peice? I searched Athom and as someone new to the "non-proprietary" device shopping, there seems to be range of options within that world, even when you search specifics...
Watch Quindorās videos on YouTube or his site for detailed explanations on all the things
Nice. I like the lighting on the floor as well, but my dog sheds too much for me to illuminate that one. Haha
more updates: was able to use appletv to discover the thermostat as a media player, still seeing the mute switch. not seeing the microphone tho
It sucks to go long distances on 5v tho
Iāll be replacing with these strips most likely
Or at least 12v like ws2814
You probably will want rgbw like sk6812 for dedicated white channel tho
Whites will look better not created from r g b
I concur. I will take a look at Quindor's stuff.
Then donāt zoom in
I just vacuum regularly and brush dog outside
I'm only in Lutron for the hub and 1 switch. I can return the unopened one for the kitchen. I'll give inovelli a try
Do you have a diffuser you recommend? For under cabinet, I thought COB wouldn't need one but I get a strip reflection on the granite that I'd like to fix
Do you want just white or RGB?
Itās not just that the aluminum dissipates heat to lengthen the life of the leds
Thehookup has a YouTube video showing the differences in channels including depth differences Iād watch that
Have you played around with under cabinet ones? Wonder if straight down would be best or maybe 45°
I did but I can't see what type of diffuser you use. Oh I didn't see that pic
Where did you get that little project box? I need one for the dig2analog I'm using
They take a lot of light away I need to upgrade my shit
Itās an esp8266 in a tiny 3d printed case
What makes one LED Diffuser channel better than another? Color, thickness, depth, and mounting solutions are ALL important and in my testing there were two CLEAR winners.
Best LED Density (60 LEDs/m): https://amzn.to/3Ze2P3U
Best Overall Diffuser (Shallow Aluminum + Tented Diffuser): https://amzn.to/3C7p2VP
Most "Spotless" Diffuser (Deep Alumin...
Syncing across kitchen to dig quad controller for rest of kitchen
You can buy silica gel or silicone based ones too
Do you know if they make a digital CCT strip that can go through the k temps?
Iāll be replacing the ws2812b inside with 24v fcob eventually so it looks better
I'm using an analog cct cob strip and it has been a pain to get everything working. I want an easier solution, and digital seems like the way to go, but don't know if whites come out as good
They have warm white amber which wled treats as r g b
So Yesnt
merhaba bana mqtt ile ilgili yardım etme imkanı olabilen birisi varmı ?
Iām sure they wonāt but I donāt know any better
English only discord server
#add-ons-archived for that
I got COB because I wasn't going with a diffuser, but it I should go with a diffuser, I can go with a non COB strip and get addressable WWA
Cool
has anybody set up a door closure system for an internal bedroom door that is tied into HA? If so, could you share what hardware you used and how it communicates?
I have four heating zones in my house (old house that was added on to multiple times through the years). If I want to make all my thermostats āsmartā, would people recommend replacing each zoneās thermostat with a smart one (and controlling each via HA separately), or is there some better way to do it that I havenāt thought of (maybe controlling the flow hot water to radiators / baseboard heaters at the source or something? Not sure what else would be possible besides four smart thermostats.)
any ideas on how to get a airplay microphone to pull through to HA?
no luck on my end, got the speaker added and the mic switch but no mic
if each zone is not individually controlled by a thermostat already, then adding four smart thermostats wouldn't do much. each thermostat would have to be able to control each zone independently
That is the current setup - four zones, each with its own separate thermostat
then yes, four thermostats would probably be the easiest
there might be a way add a smart valve to restrict water flow to specific radiators, def smart switches for baseboard heaters
you can usually find ecobee thermostats on marketplace for somewhere between $30-130, depending on model. there are other smart thermostats to consider as well, I know the Honeywell Pro9 is zwave(?) compatible
Thanks for those tips! I picked up an Ecobee for cheap from my utility provider actually and am going to start with that and one zone. A little worried because the thermostats for several zones are extremely old (mid-century), but weāll see! Thanks again.
I'm not positive, but there may be a way to wire the multiple zones to the one ecobee thermostat. I know that it has the ability to control multiple systems and there's likely a way with home assistant to control different systems based on different temperature sensor readings
ecobee says no, each zone is independent
Would look great downlit from rail so no glare with COB inside routed channel
There are strips with W-WW-RGB if you want ultimate control of CCT
Way too much work but yea
I made a soundbar mount with downlighting
That's nice. Where was the driver
Use a Jam door sensor
or analog jam door switch
I've read the pure white led strips have the best control over k temps and will give a much better white, which is why I went with the cct cob. I didn't realize it was analog at the time. Would have been easier to get a wwcw cct, which I might still do
Can anyone recommend some hardwired RGB light strips that work with Home Assistant? I want to be able to control the brightness and change the colors with Home Assistant.
I looked into Philips Hue, but I couldn't find any hardwired kits. There's a company named Armacost Lighting that makes some light stips that are hardwired, but I'm not sure if I can get them to work with Home Assistant.
I'm in the US, I have no protocol preference, and I don't have any budget restrictions.
Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
hardwired as in ethernet for the controller?
Hardwired for power.
Did you ever find a solution to this?
There are no wireless power LED strips. They are all hardwired for power.
https://byjasco.com/enbrighten-zigbee-in-wall-tamper-resistant-smart-outlet-white anyone use these?
Do they have a power draw sensor?
White temp accuracy is about wavelength accuracy really, worked as a lighting designer for years. So I'm super sensitive to color accuracy. I find the W/WW addition helps with mixing. But then again, also comes down to how great of diodes/binning you pay for. "Pure white" IMO is an illusion, since it's dependent on your surroundings color reflections and available light (specifically) to eye rods and cones including external light such as sunlight. In a known environment design for perception only, it's like sound quality for audiofiles š„³
still looking for any ideas y'all might have for integrating an airplay microphone into HA. AppleTV appears to be a bust
Hi, I'm still rather new to HA and just got my green set up and running. I now want/need to add Bluetooth functionality. Anyhow, all USB dongles listed here: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/bluetooth/ are currently not / hardly available (I'm located in Europe) and quite frankly father old (BT version seems to be 4.x for all listed devices).
Which BT 5.4 (or at least 5.x) dongle can I use if I don't want to resolve to using ESP32 to add BT functionality to my HA green?
#bluetooth-archived can better answer that, but those adapters are the known good ones, buying something newer isn't going to be better š
@gilded nest I ordered a Pico Remote Control for testing. I connected it to my smart dinner in my family room. When I hit the dimmer, there is still a 4 second delay between light turning on and the Lutron app recognizing the light is on. However, when I hit the Pico Remote Control, it is almost instant. So I'm 99% sure this is just how the Lutron Caseta ecosystem works. Now I just need to figure out if I want to keep with it and be ok with the delay or switch to Inovelli. I was ready to switch to Inovelli yesterday but this Pico remote is pretty cool. Looks exactly like the regular switches and it can be mounted in a box instead of a switch (replace the dumb switch in a 3 way) or wall mount it anywhere and it will look like it is a regular installed switch
but they are not available anymore mostly. You'll only find the newer 5.x-versions
That doesn't change the fact that newer isn't necessarily better
Try TP-Link matter swicthes. The non matter stuff also works well. Very affordable and work instantly.
Thanks again for your help, cheers
I'm sorry that this isn't more helpful, but might #voice-assistants-archived have some experience with microphones?
I vote to keep it. The Lutron stuff has been stupid reliable for me
They do have zwave remotes though similar to Picos if that is the route you go
Truly Wireless! Ā Ā PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Control Z-Wave devices or activate scenesĀ withĀ the multi-tapĀ feature Classic white paddle/rocker switch design for a consistent look Wire-free:Ā the perfect add-on switchĀ to put in an existing switch box orĀ install on any flat surface Scene ControlĀ (select hubs only): trigger up to
That's the direction I think I'm going. Besides the LED strip delay when using the Diva switch, I've never had any issues. Plus it is really easy to go into HD to buy them or return if something were to happen.
I know the zwave version does not.
Same, I have a zwave one, but my zigbee devices have stuff my zwave ones do not
I just did something similar, the lighting runs down both sides of the stairs with the LEDs pointing across the stair treads, the LEDs wipe on from the direction you enter the stairs. I'm using a time of flight sensor at the top to trigger the lights coming on when descending and an Aqara FP2 to handle presence and the strips turning on when ascending. It's my favorite HA automation by far.
Okay follow-up question... Anyone have a good suggestion of a zigbee in-wall outlet that does power monitoring? š
Location: USA
Budget: $20ish
Protocol: zigbee preferred
Features: power monitoring, remote control
Or, how well does kasa integrate with ha?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
What I mean is I don't want it to plug into a standard outlet for power. I want the power to be run behind the wall and tied into a switch/outlet.
I don't think you're going to be able to do that.
Everything I've seen is 5v or 12v-- which means you need a ac/dc transformer (which I suppose you could hardwire that if you wanted to, but I wouldn't recommend that as you 100% will need to be able to easily power cycle the transformer)
On my stairs, my garage shares a wall with the stair wall, so in that case the transformer and controller are all in the garage and I ran the 5v through the wall to the start of the LEDs so there is no "bulk" visible inside the house. Can you do anything similar?
I asked about Kasa fairly recently, and there wasn't much consensus. The big downside is that it requires the cloud to operate.
Kasa integration is local, not cloud
!!!!!!
I guess I misunderstood based on the adoption process then. Thanks!
I understood that it was cloud as well, the integration doc doesn't say anything about it either way. Are you sure?
Well I'll be damned
I hope this is true, I have around 50 switches/wall outlets I'm about to snag in my first attempt at HA lol
shockingly it's true...
tplink is local for HA but it uses kind of a hack that isn't really supported and wasn't intended to be used in that way.
tplink once made some noises about wanting to update firmware to cut off that access, which is why there's some bad distrust around them. They seem to have mostly relented for now though.
TP link has matter compatible devices. Isn't that local for sure?
any devices requiring polling arent good devices regardless
Is leviton cloud or local?
Check the integration docs
Maybe thats why leviton switches takes 2 - 4 seconds to update their status in the app and TP-Link is instant
I need some help with led strip lighting that can be used with Home Assistant. Is anyone that's familiar with this available to answer some questions?
I originally pushed into Kasa wall outlets because of their ability to actively monitor power usage -- if there's alternatives to that, which would be better suited for HA -- please send suggestions my way
@cyan flint Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.
When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:
- What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
- What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
- Is the problem uniform or erratic?
- What's the exact error message?
- When did it arise?
- What exactly don't you "get"?
- Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?
Has anyone succesfully integrated hunter simpleconnect fand into HA?
I searched for a while but not much luck
What do you guys think of this humidity sensor? It's homekit so it looks like I can integrate it and use for shutting off bath fan when correct humodity is reached.
NOTES: This device requires the Aqara Smart Home Hub to Work. We don't guarantee that our devices can be used with other third party brand hubs. Requires a secured 2. 4 gigahertz Wi-Fi network connection. One Aqara Hub can connect up to 32 Aqara devices.Note: AqaraDirect sells all official US ver...
It works just fine, however its Zigbee
It says homekit compatible, does that mean it still needs a zigbee hub?
I am going to guess yes
That only means that it will be with their hub, its an ordinary zigbee device
You will need a coordinator of some sort, which can be either one of those fancy usb sticks or one of them hubs
I have an apple hub in my hompod
can it talk zigbee?
Nope
then that wont work
What sesnor would you recommend?
the aquara one is pretty decent
But I don;t have zigbee, nor want it
you will have not a great time getting around either zigbee or zwave for sensor devices
there is a selection of bluetooth ones which might do just fine but i have no details about how those can integrate into your setup
the original shelly h&t has wifi support but that tends to drain the battery within a week or two, so unless you want to grid connect it thats probably also not the way to go
Skipping Zigbee will mean you miss out on a lot of affordable devices
So if add the Tuya integration, wil HA be able to use Zigbee?
no
Its a radio protocol isn't it?
you need a zigbee coordinator to talk zigbee to devices
And there is no HA integration for that? Or is it harware?
you effectively will need both, the hardware to do the signaling and an integration, well to integrate it into ha
common ways would be using zha or z2m for later
Found this: Zigbee Home Automation) integration
allows you to wirelessly connect many off-the-shelf Zigbee-based devices directly to Home Assistant,
for certain stuff like lamps you could theoretically strap it onto another integration with a zigbee hub like hue, but that likely wont work for sensors
Ok so if I use ZHA, I still need need hardware. I am running everythging off a firewall appliance. I can add one in there
it would require one usb port for the device, tho z2m also supports ethernet/poe ones
Were its going, the zigbee signal will never reach
usually people would place multiple grid connected devices throughout their home to create a mesh network which does reach, but for without anything the gap it can bridge varies vastly on interference
My house has central heating, huge metal ducts everywhere
i really cant make any assumptions in that regard
it can be between "not even leaving the room" to "the whole house no issue"
its 2.4ghz based so you might make some implications based on your wifi behaviour (but keep in mind the signal is a lot weaker)
Is the zigbee signal carried on wifi?
no
So it really needs it's own receiver
yes
it uses the same frequency range which got some upsides as its pretty cheapish to do
It hink its the same frequncy as TPMS sensors
you might have better range luck on zwave gear, which should operate around 860-900mhz
but thats also a lot more pricy
tpms should be 315-433 if google is to be believed
Back to the hub. If I plug in a Zigbee dongle in my desktop and the sensors can see it, I am all set, right?
Or dos it have to be on the machine running HA?
it has to be the same machine
the ethernet/poe ones could be placed anywhere as long as they got a wired network connection
Ok thanks
Got the Sonos Zigbee Pro thingy, thanks for the help
thats not necessarily a good purchase as its a hub and not a coordinator
First test complete for anybody that plays with Kasa smart outlets
Installed a smart plug (KP200 I think)
I ran Linux other x64 on a VB vm
setup a test acct
Added an integration --> it actually took the TP home as there was only the Kasa simulation available otherwise
It detected the Kasa outlet fine, yanked the internet cable from the modem and the phone app works fine with it still
I'll be setting up a non test instance soon and playing with ways to monitor power now -- we'll see...
Anyone got any smart air fryers they have integrated with HA?
I'm not sure if I should get the Ninja (no smarts) and use a smart plug, or just get a Cosori with it's built-in wifi an app
I'm looking to control on/off status, program meals, more integrations the better etc
does anyone know anyone or how to get EVOFW3 to work with an Orcon MVS-15R ventiliation system?
Hi guys. I am sure this has been discussed a lot before so i apologize in advance.
But i am researching a better power(watt/h) use as well as polling rate of atleast under 1 per second.
A monitor and logging solution. I have ordered an arduino with some different sensors to test etc. And currently i have one shelly plug S(i think its a version 2) and am temporarily monitoring it through the shelly app.
But in the mean time i wanna try some off the shelf/off the shelf but flashing firmware type solutions.
For now i will not be upgrading the breakerbox so i am just looking to monitor some devices(a few computers) at the wall socket.
I am in the process of setting up home assistant on a raspberry pi 5 so i am not sure if there is anything i can hook up directly to the raspberry pi(all the PCs, their outlet splitter and the raspberry pi are located next to eachother)
Anyone have any pointers for me?
Why at least one per second?
Keep in mind that you'll almost certainly have to use WiFi for connectivity
And thatāll take up 1x1 mimo in perpetuity
What up! Had a question about best practices when it comes to hardware and mixing brands as someone who is just getting into home automation and HA.
What are people doing with locks when you have multiple outdoor facing doors? Do you shell out more money and get the Encode Plus for your main doors and level locks for your other doors?
Functionally, how is this simplified with HA?
Thanks in advance!
Pro tip: Schlage zwave locks should be avoided like the plague
So what are people recommending. I think that is my biggest hurdle with preparing for this new home we purchased is: I have committed to the idea of Home Assistant and am working to choose devices so once we close I can get to work but there's not great resources when it comes to "these are the best devices, or most recommended devices". It would be nice to have some sort of primer to general list of what that looks like.
I've seen a lot of recommendations for the Encode Plus, and Lutron Caseta switches but aside from that it's the wild west lol
Youāre in the right place
Iād avoid recommendations from YouTubers itās generally in their best interest to get you to buy anything not the best. All the popular home assistant YouTubers have lots of bad hardware suggestions
The < 1 second is probably lower than i actually need lol. I probably just need a resolution in the order of 5 sec to 30 sec range
You need to focus on specific hardware needs then drill down for best brand / model from there. For locks zwave kwikset work great but not the prettiest
Why do i need to use wifi? Cant i hook up something with ethernet cables or just plain copper? As i said everything is in the same placeš
Or maybe i didnt lolš
Certainly a daunting task trying to read up on all of this and make informed decisions of what to purchase š
It is what it is
I have Yale Zwave locks-- overall I've been pretty happy with them.
What brand and model smart lightbulbs do folks recommend for Home Assistant?
I am looking for a specific function, which is for our outdoor (enclosed) front porch light to be able to turn on at dusk and off at dawn (or some other programmed time). I'd like it to RGB so I can set it to fun colors for Halloween or other times, but usually I'd keep it warm-cool white. I have wifi, z-wave and bluetooth devices currently working with my HA. Thanks
I try not to use smartbulbs at all if possible, but smart switches only do on/off/dim. In the rare cases I need smartbulbs I use Lifx (wifi). Lots of people use Hue, but they are pricey.
Hi everyone. I am a newbie in smart home. I only have a few of them but I want to get into the world. I have several external and a few internal cameras that I want to use as well. Right now, I don't have any old machine to test HA, so I need to go directly to a purchase. I was thinking the HA Green or Yellow but with the cameras, it might not work properly. In my android box, the live stream is laggy. So I guess I Green/Yellow and any RasPI won't work nice. An alternative is a mini PC which I found as a refurbished with i5 and 8GB RAM, which would be ok I guess. Or then I take the leap of faith and go to synology NAS which will have 4-5 times the cost š On the other side, I am concerned about the power consuption.. What do you suggest?
Well the Synology is a save purchase option if you primarily need a proper nas
The + models with Intel CPUs should all be able to run docker / a vm which could be leveraged by homeassistant
The USB passthrough may however be a bit more luck based but nothing that can't be figured out
If you don't need the nas aspect any* old refurb will run it aswell but possibly even a bit better
Power consumption wise both don't take anything really. You would want to look into minipcs like the n100 based beelink
Those are priced somewhere in between but with better efficiency
Hmm beelink jumps a lot from 100⬠to 270⬠for me. I don't need a NAS now, but maybe I could use it for backups and plex maybe. But a miniPC will only be used for HA. Do you think there are other mini pcs similar to that but in a more acceptable price?
You could check ones with N4/5xxx CPUs but those are not really powerful by any means
The cheapest are (at least for me) used SFF or USFF PCs.
For those you may however want to ask at your works it department
Buying decade old gear for $$$ could end up being cheaper that way (because they may not want that much money for stuff they throw away)
(or if you don't mind checking local recycling facilities)
You might pay it in electricity. My oldest server is intel gen 4. I would not recommend something older. 6th gen or newer is a good compromise.
Yea it's a trade
then the refurbished I had in mind is definitely not a good choice š
I once had a Core2Duo machine that used 60W just idling. My 4th and 6th gens do 15-18W. N100s can go to 6W. Just for a comparison. It's more than just the CPU but these pre-builds are usually made to be energy efficient and have fewer components so they can be roughly compared like that.
on the other hand, if I go on HA Green or Yellow, do you think that it can handle live stream for camera? It's not that I am gonna have it 24h but some times, I work from my desk and have the cameras next to me to watch the kids
Hey that c2d likely rolled a pi4

I believe it was a E8400.
Be aware that you basically limit yourself to HAOS with that.
I am ok with that. From my understanding HA is the gold standard, so probably I won't need anything else š
That's not what I meant. With a (U)SFF PC you can upgrade CPU, memory, add PCI-E cards, virtualize (run more than just HAOS) and whatever else you desire. Mini PCs can't be upgraded that much but are also a good option and usually use less power.
it's the first time I heard about SFF but when I google it in my country's results, the cheapest is around 550-600ā¬
does that sound ok or I am looking at the wrong place?
I paid 50⬠or so for mine but prices are different depending on your location.
Can you show me one such option?
Lookup mini pc like m910q
These are very new and powerful. Relatively. But that's still kinda expensive. I buy mine on eBay.
"lenovo tiny" is another search phrase
I just use the eBay category.
I can find a m910q at around 150⬠which sounds good. Just need to check power consumption
my i5-6500t + ssd + 16gigs of ram with proxmox, running HA as a guest, and another low cpu guest, averages 15-17watts idle
boot up is 45 watts for a few minutes
from last year usage
no frigate/cameras on my HA install
newer doesn't neccesarily mean more wattage either
Here's two of mine
are my calculations correct? Even if I consumes 50 watts all the time, it will be around 440 kWh per year. With the price of 0.12ā¬/kwh in my country, it will be around 50-55ā¬/year
A HA green/yellow will be around 10-15ā¬/year. But I will be limited on HA only.
you won't consume 50 watts all the time, you'll consume less than that.
Much less. From a quick search the M910Q can go down to 6W as well. The green as low as 1.7W.
At this price buy a new n100 based mini pc like beelink models instead
The power consumption should be 5-10w with a mini pc. Similar as a pi or other underpowered overpriced single board computer
What country are you in again
the problem with the beelink is that I cannot find them less than 250⬠(n100).
I am in Greece
Ah ok
Well for e 150 vs e250 I guess the lenovo or similar used mini pc will be the better buy
And above you searched sff which isnāt the same as usff
But the more popular term is mini pc but doesnāt really matter
I calculated 2W vs 10W at 0.12⬠and come down to 8,39⬠per year saved by using the green vs the M910Q. I don't have real data though.
Also the green or pi will be running at much higher % load than a mini pc
So given whatās actually running on each itās very similar in end result of power consumption
Hmm, I will see if I can find any n100, cheaper from somewhere else. If not, then I will go with a lenovo mini pc.
Thanks a lot everyone. I might bother you again if I find something nice. Soon
I have one it works great
at a certain point you are comparing 50 or 10 euros to management and configuration ease also š
Exactly. As long as it stays <50ā¬, it's not a problem.
there are n100 from aliexpress that can ship to Greece, but I am not sure if it is safe to buy from there. Like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001566034308.html#nav-review
Itās the same mini pc being sold at a markup on another site
Whether it ships safely and in a timely manner is another story
i bring up the savings, because half this channel is people trying to save dollars/euros/pounds but make life much worse in configuration, updates, stability, etc
It be like that
amazon eu anything ship an n100 ?
It would be less work and more mentally forgiving to get a job at McDonaldās to make the extra $100 to buy the good shit
Does anyone use a Fire 10 for a tablet kiosk display? I know they used to be a bit wonky and much less desireable than an iPad, but it seems like that may have changed?
Yes they work great
Although newest gen canāt be un Amazoned as well as old models
I found one for like 160 on German Amazon a week ago for a guy
so just to be sure. I am looking for Beelink S12 Pro. N100. Amazon will work so I can keep my eyes open to find one that shipping included will be around 200ā¬
I'm not sure on the beelink boxes, someone else will answer with better information
@cold moon are you talking about the lock screen ads? Seems like you can pay an extra $15usd to purchase one with those disabled.
There are Amazon coupons built in sometimes where you check off a box and save like $50 @rose zealot
Look up Amazon fire toolbox š§°
I paid around $175 for my i5-6500 unit, upgraded to 16gigs ram, and msata 256 unit
Donāt pay predatory pricing shit to Amazon @bright lily
Iām using fully kiosk browser and disabled the lockscreen completely on mine. Maybe it was done with the toolbox I forget
A couple of years ago you could simply live chat and they would remove it for free lol
this was like 2017, 2018 though
not bad. I got my i5-9500T HP mini PC with 16gb ram and 256gb nvme for about $160 on eBay
Swapped the ram and drive from my Lenovo mini PC into it so now it has 32GB ram and a 1TB SSD
What are some thermostats that work well with home assistant? I've got an OpenTherm boiler and my budget is about 100 euros. It doesn't have to be fancy.
The Netherlands, Zigbee or WiFi.
Looking for a recommendation for a cat pet door, possibly with HA local integration. Willing to pay for durabilty and reliability. Can be either WiFi or Zigbee
Tag me with whatever you end up with please
Hi guys, have an esxi server I would like to install the home assistant HAOS, am I correct in needing the ova vmdk image?
I try to mount it in esxi and get this
If I change the controller to IDE it starts but does not see a boot sector
Says to ensure the disk is imported, I copied it to a datastore, new hard drive -> from existing, selected the vmdk
Did you extract it?
Yeah the vmdk is unzipped
I did originally try converting the generic x86_64 image to a vmdk before I realised these ova images existed, and had the same issue
Fixed, needed to change from BIOS to EFI boot mode
IDE controller setting is required too
Not sure why IDE is needed in your case but HAOS needs EFI. Should be mentioned somewhere as well.
Yeah I must have missed a note somewhere :P, oh well time to see how much of the smart home stuff I have dotted around I can integrate together
well if it's on your network a lot of it will be found automagically unless you have stuff segmented and no mdns reflector
Yeah it found my unifi kit automatically, IoT is on a VLAN though so it didnt find hue bulbs, solar inverter etc
Piece of advice there: give the HA VM a 2nd NIC in the IoT VLAN
Probably 90% of the things out there don't work without broadcast traffic, you're just creating misery for yourself trying to stuff it through the firewall
Just let HA talk directly to the devices
better advice: a firewall isnt very effective once you punch (a bunch of) holes in it. trusted and untrusted KISS
Yeah ended up doing that
Only annoyance is it shows on my UDM as two devices, not a dealbreaker
Wish theyd add grouping to the device view
Hey guys and gals
i got a question
i been running my HA virtualized for a while now and looking to migrate it to a HP elitedesk 800 g3 mini
since i dont need the WIFI card i been thinking what i can do with it and been looking at options of what cani stick in there that would benefit HA
and then i found this...
i looked high and low and didn't find much
Wrong socket
At least I think so
Your PC looks like it has an M.2 2230 E-key socket (pretty standard for WiFi cards these days), that's mini-PCIe
Although that said, it does appear you can find an adapter that's only mildly janky
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/32946029345.html
was looking through the Hp quick specs and found that it is an M.2 Socket ( which is PCIe )
1 internal M.2 WLAN (2230 connector)
IntelĀ® 8265 802.11ac 2x2 WiFi M.2 Combo Card
I just wouldnāt buy that device
when searching intel 8265 datasheet for interface type it lists System Interface TypeWi-Fi(PCIe)
Buy a PoE zigbee coordinator and or zwave controller if you want those protocols
thats why im doing my homework prior
would be nice to just drop it in and now worry about one of the cats knocking out the USB dongle
not a bad setup for $60CAD
was the first thing i did when i got home
cleanup time
and it's sporting a I5-7500t
been tempted to see if i can upgrade to an i7 lol
Thereās lots of fuckery you can do on the Lenovos
Not sure with HP thatās a bad word to me
I been using HP servers and business products at home and work for well over a decade
Most homelabbers donāt like hp/hpe
Jet engines and pretty much worse in every way than dell
even now im running 3x 320e V2 G8 alongside a DL380 G9
they are fairly silent as well
As someone with two old dual Xeon servers fuck old dual Xeon servers
Humidity++
nope
dryer vents outside lol
and being in Alberta its fairly dry living on the endge of the canadian prairies
BUT
i am tempted to toss a i7-7700 in there
I have a 800 G5 Mini I got for $160. Works great
Dell and HP are both pretty bad at the consumer level. Their business stuff is decent though
Incorrect, they are much better at becoming ewaste early in their life
And dying
Ayy
I hope you clean out your fan filters regularly. Some clever cookie decided it was wise to put a network rack in the laundry at a place I was working. The dryers vented outside. Didn't stop me having to clean lint out of the switch and UPS fans every 4 months.
It seems the usb ports on my HA Blue are gone. Both Z2M and Zwave JS cant find their adapters
And in the hardware tab, I dont'see '/dev'
Hmm, after some Googling, seems to be a known problem of usb ports crapping out
Fml
WHAT MINI PC DO I GET TO RUN HOME ASS
WHAT? CAN YOU SAY THAT A BIT LOUDER? (please don't yell in all caps).
nearly anything works tbh
iāve got a gen 4 i5 and itās running it in a VM along with ubuntu server running my discord bot and itās still chugging. only thing to account for is ram
While iām here, anyone have any good recommendations for fire alarms? I just got 1 Nest Protect and honestly i really like it but christ itās expensive
If you're talking about the Nest Protect smoke alarms, they are worth the money. I have gone through so many others that drove me up the wall with false alarms, now have 3 Nests in various places and they are great. Best thing is the voice warning before the alarm sounds, plus the mobile notifications. Battery life is amazing - and the batteries are user-replacable! This probably belongs in #the-water-cooler though.
I would highly recommend getting ones that match your local regulatory requirements as well as ones being non smart. It's a consumable that will need to he replaced and there realistically is no real advantage of getting a notification that your house is currently burning down
Some people just buy <some random> gear for this because it is cheap. Do not, it needs to work reliable
my only issue with the neat protect is i have to buy like 5 of them
and theyāre just expensive lol. Also iād have to do my whole home to remain in regulatory requirements
Think about it as an investment into your personal health over the next 5-10 years (or whatever the estimated replacement cycle suggests)
10 years
but an investment of like $700 š
i think iām gonna wait for a better sale
Fuck nest thatās crazy. Do you have wired interconnect alarms or just battery?
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor one of these does the entire house and lets you use ādumbā quality smoke alarms
SAFE ALERTS PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS QuickĀ reports to your hubĀ forĀ low-voltage trigger signals, including interconnected hard wired smoke and CO detectors by all major brands like First Alert, Kidde, and BRK (do NOT use with battery powered detectors) Recognizes and reports both smoke and CO signals from interconnected hard
That's not really how smoke detectors work
I donāt need your advice
I'm still providing it so that no one dies from bad advice
Itās not bad advice you just donāt know what youāre talking about
I have a small pancake style compressor that i use to clean out my gear every quarter....
I use a chopstik to block the fan blade that im blowing through
'One covers the whole house's is pretty much a horrible statement for something that you don't want to spread over the whole house before you notice
You should probably click the link and read what it does
Cuz you obviously donāt understand what the product does or what interconnect smoke alarms are
Also the "rack" is the enclosed type with glass on the front of the unit
Indeed I am wrong
@cold moon i am very tempted to try that board i posted yesterday from tindie
I wouldnāt
Thread and zigbee on one board is already an issue.. adding zwave to it too is crazy
But you do you boo boo
Wtf
You sound like one of the advisers here at the dealership lol
Service... not sales
Iām not sure a good soul exists on any dealership lot
Hey now...
i have interconnect but as far as i could tell no one has done it as good as nest
it looks and works extremely well
I only buy and suggest first alert detectors
Putting the lives of my family in the hands of google aināt it chief
tbf, things like smoke alarms and C02 sensors have to go through a LOt of regulatory
It would also be a really really, really really really bad. Look on Google.
My only issue with the first alert ones is that theyāre only battery
You mean zcombo zwave ones? Yea id do exactly what i suggested above with dumb ones
Otherwise sounds like you already made up your mind on cloud connected google shit
My old place had a wired ac/dc powered smoke alarms
lol. With this being the only cloud devices in my home, i can accept that
most places do tbf
adding to that, i donāt know how much i like leaving Smoke Alarms to Home Assistant
Iāve been putting off running a bunch of romex to switch to interconnect
Iāve only got two wired one top of stairs one bottom
I was blessed with my home being pretty new compared to others
Texas 1980 build here itās a death trap
Home assistant isnāt controlling them per se itās just reacting
right
For first alert zwave for example you canāt silence it if itās been triggered by smoke or co
Not for like 30 seconds
zigbee and zwave are in good spots but i still have the occasional issues
Not me but those are solvable
The zwave 800 sticks seem to just be better all around with better range and more direct connections to controller
havenāt used zwave too hard yet
Kidde makes wireless ones if i remember
But dunno if they are CO* monitoring as well, but they do offer photoelectric and ionization type sensors as well
Battery powered but a hard wired connection option is an odd combination
Is there anyway to install Tasmota on Sonoff zigbee bridge pro without the whole ESP32 thing? I' have all the equipment and I've done it before but thought they had developed an easier way. I noticed ZHA has the ability to update the device through OTA. Does this need Tasmota installed first or can I use it to flash the device.
From what I think to remember, only a couple Sonoff devices have the diy flash ota feature
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Sonoff-DIY/ id suppose you won't get around having to plug the serial thing into it
How so? As I recall in most detectors the battery becomes a backup-- fire doesn't care if you have power or not.
im planning on replacing my current thermostat and from what i hear nest and ecobee are great but they cost nearly 200cad and i was wondering is there any cheaper options?
I just see it listening power source battery in the specs
I mean it makes sense that way around
It's just like those wireless headphones with a wire to keep the pair together
Anyone here know of any alternatives to Abode's slim door sensors that's HA friendly (Z-Wave/etc)
https://www.zwaveoutlet.com/products/sensative-strips-guard-z-wave-800-doorwindow-sensor-with-magnet Iāve heard good things about these. No battery replacement but 10 year life apparently
Sensative Strips Guard Z-Wave 800 Door/Window Sensor Elevate Your Home Security Discreetly with the Sensative Strips Guard Z-Wave 800 Door/Window Sensor Ensure your home's security with the best in the market ā the Sensative Strips Guard Z-Wave 800 Door/Window Sensor. This device offers exceptional protection while rem
I saw these on Amazon, but haven't heard much (if anything) about the brand
They arenāt new theyāve been around a long time
The 800 model is just a long range refresh of the older ones
It costs them $10,000 minimum to sign up for zwave alliance plus all the other certifications
Generally zwave is a premium price over random zigbee or WiFi hardware
That's a fair point
I personally use cheap aqara zigbee sensors on doors
I even have one in my mailbox and another in a 3d printed case on my gate
That was the counter debate. For my sliding glass doors I really like the hidden appeal of these. This is me being picky
Not that..
I was debating on this for other things, but saw mixed responses
due to the matter integration with SkyConnect
Fuck matter
lol
Yeah, everyone seems to love these
what the spec difference?
wait seriously?
Yes
why are the 3.x versions only available overseas?
I do a little trolling but not with hardware
Cuz no one is reselling them at a markup on Amazon yet
Zooz Z-wave door sensors have been good to me, they are not much of a premium price, like $20.
They were on there a year or two ago
Zwave and specifically zooz isnāt great with battery life
Not compared to zigbee at least
FWIW I really really like my Thirdreality door/window sensors. Zigbee. Cheap and reliable.
I hadn't heard that zwave is worse than zigbee, interesting.
(yes I meant for battery life, sorry)
Battery life*
Eh, I think the battery life is going to be hardware/vendor/environment specific
Zwave is used to save battery
Most people donāt change default reporting settings which plays a big part
Mine last about a year, but I'm thinking that's because I buy the worst noname brand CR cells for the cheapest price.
Zooz youāre lucky to get a year out of. Zigbee certain sensors go over 4 years
But Zigbee is nicer
the Thirdreality sensors come with alkaline batteries that are at 60% out of the box but if you put lithium batteries in there they last a WHILE
people who bought the shelly h&t to have the expensive cells go dead in three weeks
https://goabode.com/product/slim-strip-sensor
These guys lasted me 5 years š¦
weird that they still sell that
Communication Protocol: AbodeRF/433Mhz
Well if you like old protocols go for it
lol
Unrelated: Does anyone know where I can find a guide on making the Amazon smart scales work with HA? I found this post but the comments are definitely going over my head: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/amazon-dash-smart-shelf/252750
I just saw this on amazon, the Dash Smart Shelf. It looks like the replacement idea for the dash button is a āsmart shelfā that keeps track of the weight of a product to automatically re-order it when youāre getting low. I have no intention of buying one for the intended use, but love the concept of having something like this that I could inte...
Verifying packet got there for a window or door or leak sensor is pretty nice to have
I need an absolute moron's guide
Find another solution then lol
I would but I think this is the only real solution for a smart 3d printer filament scale.
Yeah, nothing here on that. Withins is generally my de-facto smart scale. I didn't even know Amazon made one ...
Thereās lots of ways to do this now
Smart filament runout sensors can even track amount of filament gone through it now
With no scale needed
BTT has one on Amazon
damn I'm surprised the Bambus dont have that
Idk anything about those cloud connected spaceships
I mean I guess they do on bambu filament but not 3rd party
I mean they dont have to be cloud connected but thats a whole conversation. They're awesome though.
but thanks I'll look into the BTT scales
I didnāt suggest a scale lol
The diy thing you linked has a guy saying go watch a thehookup video on something similar
So you can probably figure it out if you take the time to learn and just try it
yeah I missed that link the first time. I'll have to go that route because the runout sensors are 1) usually assuming a certain MCU in in your printer and 2) with all the spool swapping we do on my company's print farms they probably aren't super practical
You should probably ask in a printer farm discord tbh
Although lots of dummies with money in that business
Only real barriers to entry are startup costs and cash flow
@cold moon QQ but on Ali did you buy from one particular merchant?
It doesnāt matter
Iāve linked that specific link multiple times in the past year with no complaints
Taking about the Aqara Door Window Sensor E1. Your current link is sold out
I mean that's true about dummies with money but that's a pretty reductive way to look at getting into it. It's not a small amount of work designing models and running these businesses.
Iām a part of the community I know stuff and things
I'm sure you know the stuff. Just sayin it sounded a lil dismissive
It was
I'm dismissed then
Iād use the terms blunt and realistic lol
https://tideline3d.com/ this guy found a nice little niche
Built out a big shop to house more Prusas
it's all about the niches. We do gothic decor/horror fandom stuff
at least it's not articulated dragons amirite?
I print lots of dumb shit but just to give away
@golden thorn
How did you assign the memory to the VMs? If you go over 80% memory usage ballooning will kick in.
Doesn't matter in this case then since you don't have a lower value for the memory defined.
what "lower value"?
Click the advanced button. You can define a lower memory and and a upper one. Basically the lower is reserved and the upper is the maximum it can use over time. Well, unless the host has >= 80% memory usage.
now i need to read what "ballooning" means š
https://pve.proxmox.com/wiki/Dynamic_Memory_Management
It's a bit more complicated than it sounds. Or rather, there's more involved than you can see on the surface and refers to multiple things.
well, i actually did order the 8 GB of RAM, but got scammed (i think: as it didn't come in 2+ weeks, and the local alternative to ebay is in the process of "investigating" ;p). i'm gonna upgrade the ram eventually.
but⦠it's been working like that for hmm⦠1,5 years with no problems :]
The discrepancy between the load avg and the CPU usage makes me think the swap/disk might be used a lot. I would expect the iowait to be a bit higher though.
As long as everything works it should be fine but If you have some spare time I'd investigate with tools mentioned here: https://www.site24x7.com/learn/linux/troubleshoot-high-io-wait.html
I'm kind of intrigued by this.
If you have some spare time
I have like gazzzzzilion TODOs in HA category š since "it works" -> the "if it works, don't touch it" applies ;p
the 8 GB I order was because I wanna try ZFS RAID on the 2 USB-3 connected HDDs (yes, I WAS already riddiculed for that :D)
I had some very bad experience with ZVOLS. Not that uncommon as it turns out: https://www.google.com/search?q=zfs+iowait
ZFS on its own works well but is a bit write heavy by default.
my reasoning: I want a ZFS RAID to have a "backup" when one of the hard drives breaks for some reason.
- i know: "raid is not backup" (because with electrical surge both drives can go down; because if I delete file on one, I cannot restore it from the second one; etc) -> so let's not call it backup, let's call it "redundancy" or whatev š
- i've never done a RAID before, so mostly it's a learning experience anyway
- ZFS is the recommended solution for Proxmox (btrfs and mdraid are "unsupported")
- ZFS requires 8 GB of RAM -> "lucky me" as I think my S720 cannot do more š
ZFS can work with less.
maybe it can, but:
ZFS depends heavily on memory, so you need at least 8GB to start.
https://pve.proxmox.com/wiki/ZFS_on_Linux#_hardware
The rule of thumb would be 2+1/tb GB, even that is plenty for most cases
Tho realistically brtfs will do just fine as well, you just loose the in memory features for the most part
I have 2 GB right now, so not enough anyway. And the 8 Gb upgrade is like 40 zÅ (9 euro), so⦠no brainer āļø
by default with proxmox it will claim a whole lot more than it would actually need
if you get to the point of configuring it, take the moment to dial it down
@distant yacht I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
@golden thorn from the tests /\ I will conclude that:
- it takes ~8-9 W when normal load (most of the time)
- it takes ~16-17 W when under heavy load (like the backups scheduled at 4 AM each night)
- Kruger is most likely completely wrong
- the smart sockets cannot be trusted -> too much different values ;p
Does anyone have a link to a newer guide on how to flash the Sonoff Zigbee bridge pro? I already did it the old way but I just can't connect to it in HA.
Gotta have a good reference like a killawatt or similar. Weird that your smart plugs are so unreliable. Considering that a much more powerful N100 can idle at 6W that's still not that efficient. Can you try if it gets reduced with powertop --auto-tune?
Weird that your smart plugs are so unreliable.
3 of them are the (in)famous TuYas.
The only one not being TuYa (-> Aqara) gives the middle result š
Gotta have a good reference like a killawatt or similar.
yeah, as I said, at my beginnings with home automation, I've flashed the Gosund to Tasmota, read about calibration, decided that I cannot easily achieve it ā I don't have any calibrated device to have a reference point. Not a big deal, as the actual numbers give me nothing: I don't care how much power my furnace actually takes (it is what it is, I'm renting, so I won't change it anyway) -> I just wanna now if it's working right now or not (and that's a ~6 / ~85 / ~150 W options -> measured by⦠Kruger xd). But I've come a long way since those beginnings, so maybe I could get back to the subject š
Considering that a much more powerful N100 can idle at 6W that's still not that efficient
Kruger gives the 5.7 W idle -> maybe this one is right, and others are wrong? ;p Although the 258 V looks strange to me⦠(Poland: it's supposed to be 230 V [?]).
It also has the 2 HDD powered via USB3 + Zigbee Sonoff DongleāP connected as well => I don't know how much can that affect the results.
Can you try if it gets reduced with powertop --auto-tune?
I'm guessing you want me to run it directly on Proxmox? Sure, but a bit later!
I have a Sonoff Zigbee bridge Pro loaded with Tasmota and talking to HA. I am trying to add an Aqara Tem and humidity sensor but it shows up asLUMI lumi.weather. Is this normal?
My tuyas work fine. I have to check their values again when I have some time. Without calibration tasmota's energy values can be ignored. powertop should run on the node, correct.
does anyone know anyone or how to get EVOFW3 to work with an Orcon MVS-15R ventiliation system?
orcon MVS-15R
Yeah all Aqara's stuff shows up like that.
Thanks
Did you end up tacking this? I am trying to decide the same thing currently
It looks very straightforward and simple with some decent wire strippers and wagos
Thereās even a cute little 3d printed case that houses the wagos
I'm sorry, I still haven't. Tackling more urgent HA projects first (since I can still open my doors with a separate app, albeit cloud-controlled, and with buttons in my car). But I do plan to! I watched some YouTube videos made by relative novices that made me feel more confident, FWIW.
Anyone have a recommendation for an LED light strip thatās rated for outdoors? I think my hue ones died.
Located in the US
Budget is probably no more than $500, but if you know of something more expensive than that which will work LMK anyway
Zigbee or z-wave preferred
These will need to be able to take rain and snow, sometimes heavy snow. The hue ones are a bit short, I think I need to 4x the length for what Iām doing. Totally acceptable to weatherproof a normal strip as well (if thatās the route, please link to all the stuff that would be required).
hello what do you advice me to take instead of something like this
Do Aliexpress Aqara sensors work in us? They keep talking about international versions, what does that mena?
Got a link?
I could see there may be some differences in frequency ranges between version
That alcohol thermometer will be +/-1°C at best.
A man with one watch knows the time. A man with two watches is never sure.
Would also say there's no guarantee the temperature sensor the HVAC is reading is inside that control panel.
i bought aqara door sensors from aliexpress, am not in the US (europe) but they work flawlessly
yeah, i've done a lot such comparisons -> which made me trust only snzb-02 for now ;p
hello what do you advice me to take instead of something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZTYHK7X/?th=1
Mini PC Computers Intel 12th Gen N95 (up to 3.4GHz) 8GB RAM DDR5 256GB M.2 SSD,Home Office Micro Desktop Computer with Dual Gigabit Ethernet Support 3* Dual-WiFi Bluetooth 4.2HDMI 3*USB 3.1-RGB Light https://a.co/d/4oLskyJ
Hello! New to HA. Fairly tech savvy. Looking to just start with some basic stuff to move my automations away from Alexa into something more versatile and so I can link my hue and Caseta devices more easily together.
Anyways I ordered this mini pc on Amazon. Was the cheapest offering in Canada and felt more comfortable using Amazon than ali express. Does this look like a suitable platform to run HA? I also have a pi 3b I already own but figured it might be better to setup something with more robust storage and better specs from the start. Thanks š
Yes, that will easily handle HA. I am about a week farther along into the process than you are - I set jp my similar mini PC a few days ago. I got a N100 which is very similar to the N95 from the HA perspective.
It will have enough power to run a few things simultaneously, so the best practice (from what I've gathered) is to run proxmox at the first layer, the run a HA OS virtual machine on top of proxmox.. then you can add other VMs/containers for other things you might want to do with the box
I can give you a couple links if you want a proxmox+ha install tutorial
Excellent tysm! Yes that would be great
I followed this guide https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html
nice
Thanks!
Hi, I bought recently a xiaomi mlg03 (ZNDMWG02LM) and updated it's firmware using the procedure here: https://github.com/zvldz/mgl03_fw/blob/main/firmware/README.md
all went fine, but when updating the zigbee module I probably dind't follow the steps correctly as they are outdated and I think the module is briked. I can add bluetooth devices fine but the zigbee can't find any device in xiaomi app and the home assistant keeps giving me errors. I think I might have briked it.
https://github.com/zvldz/mgl03_fw/blob/main/zigbee/README.md
what can I do to recover it? even if it involves opening the device up.
in the home automation page the zigbee flash EZSP keeps giving error.
Thanks
does anyone know how to find microphones in your network?
i'm still trying to get the ecobee to work with home assistant, it appears that the speaker/mic is airplay but I can't find a way to discover it
Damn that snzb-02 reports alot
Is it battery powered or net powered?
If thats on battery I would love to know the battery life
Well comparing to the old school thermometer the samsung one from my hvac is the mos accurate for now
zigbee, the battery entity is still showing 100%, i've been using it ~4 months
It all depends a bit what you want.
Im very happy with the Shelly 1 (wifi, no power metering) https://www.shelly.com/en-be/products/shop/shelly-plus-1
They have different variants aswel like mini verisons, zigbee, with power metering etc but never used one before
Impressive
Whats the frequentcy it reports the data?
Roughly ?
Hmm now i see your time axis. Seems that the Tuya ZTH05 respons very slowly
yep, I've made a lot such comparisions when I was buying the devices (I could have made screenshotsā¦) -> the result is:
- SNZB-02 gives the most precise results
- interesting fact: SNZB-02D (the "D" stands for "Display") is NOT as precise (it updated less frequently -> while I've thought it would be just the same plus display)
- tuyas are even worse
The Tuya i have now reports every 30minutes. The aquara reports a bit more randomly ( sometimes after 10minutes sometimes 45minutes) have not figured this one out
Whats the interval that the SNZB-02 reports?
it usually is: "once X min or when temperature changes by Y degrees (whatever first)"
for the SNZB? or just in general?
I'm guessing: in general. But it depends on the product's internal software of course.
every 2 minutes seems like a lie if i look at your screenshots tho
Whats the interval that the SNZB-02 reports?
by looking at the chart -> 11:45, 11:50, 11:55⦠-> every 5 min
damn thats impressive for a battery powered device
although, not exactly. i guess it depends on many factors after all. I can see a "gap" of 30 min for example ā while the temp was not changing.
therefore my guess: every 30 min or every 5 min if changes
these are next to each other (snzb-02 vs snzb-02d)
Has anyone tried unbinding a TPLink KASA device from the cloud using the python library lately? I have numerous switches that somehow updated (and I normally block them access to the net) - they now reboot every 10 minutes since they cannot reach the cloud.
I found instructions on how to do, but it comes back with "server no responce" error when issuing the commands.
Thanks, I get my Optiplex 3050 next week and will be using Proxmox to run HAOS and Plex. Will have to do some tinkering to ensure I'm getting QuickSync working with Plex, but this guide will be great for HA!
I got a new Shelly plus 1 coming from 1L because this one has a better relay and hopefully won't get stuck
I see a 12v connection. Is it possible to power a security camera besides the light switch?
This is the power supply of the security camera
this is a 12v power input, not output
it works on either 12, 24-48, 110-230v
you could however just cram a 12v converter in this box aswell
I'm no electrician not sure how to do this
effectively the same as the +1 has been installed
So cut the power supply cord of the charger and connect it to the wago from where the electricity is coming from
Right?
well you would have the converter inbeween but effectively yes
Converter?
you would need to get the line voltage down to 12v
Makes sense
or reuse the one that is inside the plug you have above if you can open that carefully
The power supply does this for me
I get it now
Not even sure what the inside looks like lol
I'm going to YouTube
chances are its heavily glued in. at worst amazon will likely have such part available (like for leds and stuff)
I'm going to try opening the charger and connecting the cables normally going to the socket directly to my power
Please fix the exposed copper on neutral wire here
Either wire is too long or not pushed in far enough
Will do, thanks!
someone got sharp eyes ;D
The wagos have a measuring line on the side of them for perfect length to go into wagos too
Like so
Didn't know that
Are there risks for not fully putting in the neutral wire
it may not be secured properly
I have more Shellys installed in home and I might need to check if any wire is a tiny bit exposed
that's a disappointing question
also in case of stuff going where it shouldnt you totally dont want to end up touching stuff by accident
do you know what the neutral wire is for and why it's bad to have exposed copper?
I know 0 electricity
im quoting US power cuz idk what the uk or eu stuff does: for the usa, canada etc the neutral is used to send power "back" to the breaker if there is a ground fault
if the neutral is exposed like that and there's a short it arcs to the closest thing it can cuz physics
you should watch a few videos on what not to do before doing any of this shit man
it's not rocket appliances but still
in fairness its not that obvious
Yeah first thing in the morning I'm opening all wall switches to check for any exposed wires
in yeehaw texas land it's drilled into us from a young age not to fuck with electricity if you dont understand it
they need to be properly tightened down too
and not to accept tainted electricity from any other state
i cant control anything about what the yeehaw political fucks do
@unreal falcon https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/spring-sale/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor
SAFE ALERTS PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS QuickĀ reports to your hubĀ forĀ low-voltage trigger signals, including interconnected hard wired smoke and CO detectors by all major brands like First Alert, Kidde, and BRK (do NOT use with battery powered detectors) Recognizes and reports both smoke and CO signals from interconnected hard
This product is really neat
Takes your existing wired interconnect smoke alarms and adds a way to notify if any go off
ok thank you
Awesome, definitely getting those. Thanks!
You need a zwave controller
Probably a good idea to buy the tube zwave one and the raspi hat from zooz for it
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/spring-sale/products/zooz-700-series-z-wave-plus-scene-controller-switch-zen32 id get one of these too. I have one and like the buttons for home assistant automations
Z-WAVE SWITCH REBORN PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS On/off Z-Wave and manual control from the main button: use with 120 V lights or fans under 3 A 4 smart buttons for remote control* NEW 800 chip: more range, faster signal, SmartStart inclusion + S2 security Z-Wave Long Range ready: extend the wireless coverage up to 1 mile if you
@cold moon sorry for the ping--you've been a lot of help. Buying some of the smoke detectors/the scene controller while they're on sale. For the zwave hub: Tubes Zwave PoE kit + Zooz long range 800 GPIO module?
Please read the description of the product
You only need one if theyāre all interconnected
Oh you said youāre moving into old house
Chances are basically zero theyāre all interconnected
But if you had an electrician come to fix other wiring they could wire it up but it wouldnāt be cheap
I didn't read that, so thanks for pointing it out. Will read now--and yes, I doubt they're connected. But I will have an electrician do that I think, depending on cost. Ha
Yep
Basically romex in attic would be ran to every single one in a daisy chain
The fun part is, the second story is a converted attic. So almost no attic space. Ha
And that product sits on the traveler wire listening like the other smoke alarms in the daisy chain
Iād just let them punch a bunch of holes in drywall and pay a drywall guy to come unfuck it later
/me points to coffee āļølink in my profile
Yes his zwave kit plus the zac93 from zooz to go on it
Itās a new product but confirmed working well (the tubes kit)
Thx
Thank you! Very helpful. I don't move in for a couple months, so I'll dig through old messages on here and read up and come back later to see what folks think about a plan. Gives me more time to see what we'll do on the electric side, too
Nothing will change in a couple months except stable firmware on zwave controller maybe
For battery only smoke co alarms Iād go first alert zcombo
I prefer first alert branded smoke alarms myself
For door window do aqara e1 zigbee sensors
I even have one on my gate in a 3d printed case and another in my mailbox
Awesome, I was wondering about using them outside.
They arenāt waterproof but itās survived in my mailbox over a year in its existing case in Texas summer even
For the gate I did that not too long ago and did not attempt to waterproof it either but itās in a 3d printed case. Weāll see how long itāll last
I sent you a pm btw
Discord hides them cuz they canāt control crypto bots

and for rolling shutter what should i use ?
Has anyone used reolinknor other solar powered cameras into frigate/HA? Or should I figure out a way to hardwire or so POE. Currently house isn't wired for Ethernet and it's probably not realistic for me atm
you should ask in #cameras-archived for specific camera suggestions but yeah PoE is the only security camera option
I will. Apologies. I've been drinking
The smoke detector conversation makes me think to ask, does anyone have any experience with listeners (that supposedly listen for smoke / CO2 alarms)?
all apple homepods/minis and newer gen iphones/ipads listen if you enable it IIRC
not 100% but it sounds right
Huh, no kidding? Iāll look into that. I think Alexa devices no longer do, which was a bummer.
i dont put amazon or google devices on my lan out of respect for myself š (and my privacy)
actually that's not true apple tvs suck compared to nvidia shield tvs so i submit there 
Tbh it all depends on what you want (wifi, zigbee, zwave, bluetooth) / what shutters you have etc
Hey guys
So I'm cururentl trying to set up all my stuff with HA
I have an Alexa Echo, 2 +sylee bulbs and homebridge
I want to get a switch or toggle in the HA dashboard for the lightbulbs but struggling to do ss
Can someone hlp me out?
Hi I am looking for smart lock for doors that works with zigbee/z-weave and I am able to change pin codes in HA. Ideally with 1 year battery life š Any recomendations ? thanks
Kwikset zwave
ZWave Lock Management Integration
raman's slimmed down version is on his repo: https://github.com/raman325/lock_code_manager
That or keymaster for management of codes
thank you
Battery life depends on how freely the lock engages and disengages into the hole
If it has to exert a lot of force to jam that thing up in there then it wears out faster

Damn i cannot find them in UK ;/
Are you talking about deadbolts or crazy eu locks
Also another question, which sensors like temp. humidity and motion sensors are by your opinion the most reliable to install? on zigbee
crazy eu locks š
Motion I like hue (connected to zigbee mesh with z2m) but I have an aqara p1 zigbee 3.0 and that works well too
Aqara e1 for door window sensors. I use them on a gate and in mailbox too
No idea good luck
I have what I think is a 3 way switch in a hallway controlled by two plain switches and like to integrate them ( no neutral ) thoughts ?
Each box has three wires (white red black)
No ground, Canada
I need a picture I donāt believe you
If you have white, red, and black, what makes you think you don't have a neutral?
The white wire is a neural?
