hardware-archived

[cold moon]

what do you mean by "dont have an on/off position"

Ooh like a decora style rocker but not actually ‘flipping’?

Lots of smart switches are like that

[devout parrot]

So you want a momentary rocker? There are plenty of switches like that, dumb and smart.

You could Wall mount and hide the cables in some kind of low profile track, or fish them through the wall with brush plates.

[unborn igloo]

hi @ all, please forgive me if this is the wrong channel: I have bought a Dahua VTO2202F-P-S2 Video Doorbell. I have managed to integrate the cam into frigate and also into home assistant with the dahua integration from hacs. Since it being a doorbell I want to use it as such. Is here anyone who has such a device and has it running as a working doorbell who would be willing to help me out (Would buy you a beer or something)

[cold moon]

i think you can just use the frigate card in hacs for that

https://github.com/dermotduffy/frigate-hass-card this thing

err derp i was thinking of the frigate blueprint

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/frigate-mobile-app-notifications-2-0/559732

but as far as like button press for a notification goes that should be pretty easy

[unborn igloo]

I can not for the life of me find the binary sensor doorbell button pressed ...well sort of i have an entity but it is shown as "sound detection" which does not make much sense to me and even if i use the entity i can not get an automation to work with it

[cold moon]

did another entity get added as disabled?

[unborn igloo]

i already have it set up in frigate - that was the easy part. i have read that with go2rtc there is even a two way audio possible so that one could use it as intercom via the ha companion app. And I certainly plan to do that next but for now, i just want a basic doorbell function

this is what ihave

[cold moon]

https://github.com/rroller/dahua#binary-sensors

is this the hacs integration you used?

[unborn igloo]

yes

[cold moon]

when you push the doorbell button do you see that entity change in the logbook?

[unborn igloo]

well yes i do but it seems odd to me

[cold moon]

this is what unifi doorbell shows

i think it used to be a button press tho

[unborn igloo]

if you take a look at the picture above you'll see the log part where it says "Haustürklingel Button Pressed Ton erkannt" translating to Doorbell Button Pressed Sound recognized"

[cold moon]

just rename it i guess

[unborn igloo]

I will try the automation after renaming

ok now this sort of works

[outer knot]

@unborn igloo I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:

[unborn igloo]

I get the stream live on my google nest but i do not get any notifications....

Maybe my panel is the problem

I will look into that

thx

[remote lark]

When running power for smart shades, is that like an outlet? Need to redo electric (currently two wire, old house) so trying to also account to the future

[winged knoll]

For those that are mains powered, yes

[half leaf]

Will any USB RS485 adapter work in HAOS? Are there some serial chipsets that don't work?

[visual cipher]

I forgot to post an update to this. It's all finally all connected and working. Now just to set everything up in HA

[patent river]

Now I wanna see inside the panel where all the Ethernet cables plug into them

[glacial oracle]

nice job

[visual cipher]

It's a bit messy 😄

I'm going there tomorrow, if I remember I'll take off the cover and take a pic

[rich venture]

how much did you spend on shelly devices?

[visual cipher]

Since it's my first time working with pros, we didn't really realize how much wires actually have to go into the pros. If we had the foresight, it would of been a better idea to get a 4-5 row din rail box, or 2 smaller ones to separate the shellys away

[visual cipher]

2752.05 EUR

Shelly PRO 1 - x20
Shelly PRO 2PM - x14
Shelly Door/Window2 - x10
Shelly Plus H&T - 1x
RC Snubber - 20x
Shelly Plus i4 - 2x

One of the Shelly PRO1 was broken, will return it and get a PRO EM instead. Also only used 1 shelly plus i4.

I'll need to set up bathroom mirrors with shellys, not sure if I'll throw them into the PROs or just get 2 wireless ones for that.

[rich venture]

regarding networking side, you are currently introducing a single point of failure + extra hop with switch being connected to a switch
connect top usw pro to dream machine directly instead of via enterprise xg

[visual cipher]

True, but at the same time the network is so small it doesn't really matter. I'll have bigger problems if the XG dies

[rich venture]

i really hate that ubiquiti doesent have dual psu options

[visual cipher]

I'll need to redo some of the rack too. I don't like how they've set up the patch panels. Need to move the power down

[rich venture]

they call the switch "enterprise" yet it lacks basic features like rendundant psu

[visual cipher]

They have these
https://eu.store.ui.com/eu/en/collections/unifi-power-tech-power-redundancy/products/usp-rps

This is the back of the XG

[rich venture]

you know what is funny about that?
switch cant boot with just that as power supply

it can just fail over

[visual cipher]

I don't really need it though. It's a 90m2 apartment, it's not like I'll have power fail just there. If it fails everything is going dark

That's interesting

I don't really need the XG either, it's not like I have any devices that can use 10Gbit anyways hah

[rich venture]

add a ups, you spent nearly 3k for smart home, what is another 500 for a deacent ups

[visual cipher]

I was just like... the cables support 10Gbit, so might as well have a switch that does

[visual cipher]

I do plan on doing that later. If for nothing else to be able to gracefully shut things down if power fails

[patent river]

It's funny, because a lot of other brands of switches (Cisco, Juniper, Brocade that I know of, probably others) had 2nd PSU boxes that looked exactly like that back in the day, but all of them stopped doing it in favour of just having 2 real PSUs.
Ubiquiti started making a switch with 2 PSUs (US-L2-24-POE) then cancelled it and went back to the external 2nd PSU box

[rich venture]

and then you have mikrotik
example of CRS504-4XQ-IN
dual psu, poe in, dc jack in, 2 pin terminal
all the powaaa

[patent river]

Options are always good 🙂

[rich venture]

i had to swap psu-s on a cisco switch as it was semi faulty - device was working ok but poe budet was 0
slide in new psu in 2nd slot, remove faulty one. no interuptions

[patent river]

One of our Juniper switches at work got its PoE board killed by lightning hitting one of our buildings.
Cooked a security camera which was only a few metres from where the lightning hit, went down the cable and fried the PoE controller.

Some crazy how the switch still worked

[rich venture]

yea they are really robust except ubiquiti switches, basically no one uses them in prod as they are buggy mess with often gimmicky features

[patent river]

This was what was left of the PoE circuit on the camera:

[rich venture]

zapped

[patent river]

The half capacitor still hanging on is a particular highlight

[rich venture]

is that capacitor or was it smd gas discharge tube

[patent river]

GDTs have 3 terminals normally, don't they?

[rich venture]

2 terminals

basically a spark gap

https://www.littelfuse.com/products/gas-discharge-tubes.aspx

[patent river]

Guess I'm more used to seeing this kind (inside Ethernet surge protectors and the like): https://www.littelfuse.com/products/gas-discharge-tubes/medium-to-high-surge-gdt/gtca38.aspx

[subtle creek]

Anyone use openmqtt gateway with an esp32? I have a lilygo t3 and it seems far less sensitive than directly running the rtl_433_esp library w/ esphome library on it. Wondering if anyone might know what or if there might be tweaks that are needed.

[kindred kiln]

Standard / older style switches flip up/down for on and off. If you have two or more for a single light they get out of sync. IE, top of stairs flip it up to turn on and downstairs it will be down for on.

[uncut ridge]

looking for suggestions on smart plug that has power monitoring so i can tell if something has XYZ power draw to determine if its not working. low / high wattage plug suggestions appreciated. i have zigbee and zwave installed. USA

[devout parrot]

What country?

[uncut ridge]

USA

[devout parrot]

Best bang for your buck is gonna be Sonoff S31 flashed with esphome, and that avoids adding extra congestion to your Zigbee network.

[gritty nymph]

Would that be the same recommendation for the UK

[high cobalt]

Anyone?

[devout parrot]

Couldn't tell you, the US/Canada and UK use different electrical standards and plugs.

[winged knoll]

Depends on what features you want

[regal parrot]

What do people think about a pair of Nest Audio's as kitchen speakers?

[winged knoll]

Are you happy with the sound from them?

If so they're good

[regal parrot]

I haven't bought them yet, just trying to weigh up the options for some kitchen speakers. They seem like they punch above their weight (~£40 each second hand), and will be useful as they will integrate with my HA setup.

[winged knoll]

Some people like them, some find them underwhelming

They're not as good as Sonos/Symfonisk, but they're probably cheaper, so it's likely a wash

[regal parrot]

hadn't seen Symfonisk before, will look into those, thanks

[winged knoll]

They're Sonos, but from Ikea

got two in my home office, every bit as good as the Play:1 they replaced, hell, better

[cold moon]

based on teardowns they are identical and use the same hass integration as well

[regal parrot]

yeah they look great, just think the lack of Google Assistant is a bit of a no go for me and the wife, use it a lot when cooking 'tell me the news, set a timer' etc.

Shame because they look like way better speakers

and I like the design

[cold moon]

well you're talking about a smart speaker and then talking about speakers

[winged knoll]

Oh yeah, they use the Sonos app and everything

[cold moon]

one is an apple, one is an orange

[winged knoll]

Pair them with a Google Home Mini for voice control 😉

(that's what we do)

[cold moon]

well based on the current voice trajectory i expect we'll have more DIY fully local options in the near future

[winged knoll]

Then you also get a shitty speaker for announcements if you don't want to pause/duck the music

[cold moon]

like the guys replacing PCBs in google minis and turning them local

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/recycling-google-nest-mini-home-mini/596095

[cold moon]

i use homepod minis for this but if i was cooking i'd have a phone or tablet in the kitchen as well. is that not something you guys carry around with you?

[regal parrot]

yeah my bad, assumed Sonos were smart speakers

[winged knoll]

They do smart ones, but not with Google support from memory

Symfonisk aren't smart, but they're cheaper

The money you save will more than pay for a Home Mini

[cold moon]

well you can use them as endpoints to play from.. smart in that way lol

[regal parrot]

good chance I wouldn't have my phone in my pocket, plus if I'm hearing the news I would want it coming from some decent speakers rather than my phone

[sterile flume]

Situation: Light switch is currently behind the door when door is opened, I want to have a switch on the other side without opening up the wall.

Question: Is the best solution to use a z-wave switch in the wall with a remote scene controller like the one I have linked or is there a better solution, such as a z-wave switch that is paired with a dedicated toggle? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TMWLY74/?coliid=I1NIGX64J96N1R&colid=KH7ZYG29P4TB&psc=1

[regal parrot]

but yeah, not ruling anything out, still trying to figure out what would work best 🙂

whilst sounding acceptably good

[cold moon]

you really should be asking in #zwave-archived - i think you are actually wanting a direct association?

i.e. talks directly to the device over zwave without the need for controller, so it still works even if controller is down

https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/ also buy zooz from their webiste here, the amazon store is still selling old 700 stock when some devices have newer 800 variants out

[sterile flume]

I do not have a strong preference either way if it is direct association or using the network, or even if it is a smart switch. Thanks for the link for the store, I see the 800 sticks are cheaper there than the 700 sticks on Amazon, I'm assuming more snooping will find some other savings as well.

[hasty ice]

I want to integrate a station weather in 433Mhz with homeassistant. I already have a rtl_sdr that I can use to listen to the channels but I wonder if I need to setup a MQTT server just for this or if there is another way to push the data as a sensor.
Something tells me that I can't avoid setting up the mqtt server.

[chilly heart]

I should do that someday, I'm just using them for voice commands atm lol

Well, it's me again, still trying to figure out what exactly I need for some of the smart stuff I want to get in the (near) future. So, hubs aren't recommended. And the SkyConnect stick isn't either. Aqara recommends their hub for some of the stuff I want so I think I do need their hub at least? Or would I be fine with getting a sonoff stick for zigbee instead? And for matter / thread; the only viable options I've found was the SkyConnect stick. Are there any other ways for me to connect for matter or thread devices? I can't seem to figure out what is seen as a thread based router so I don't know what stuff to look at. I'm EU based.

[regal parrot]

Excuse my noob question, and noob drawing.. but I just have a simple question I'm hoping someone can answer :). This circled switch will be performing both regular netwroking activities, but also be used for my IP camera setup. I just want to check something before I start ordering some parts... I plan on keeping the IP cams offline, i.e. no internet connection.. do I need a managed switch to do this? Or can I just set the cameras MAC addresses within the router to be blocked from the internet?

[chilly heart]

That drawing is honestly pretty neat

[regal parrot]

Thanks 😅

[chilly heart]

But it fully depends on the capability of your router

[regal parrot]

I believe my router (EdgeRouter X) has the functionality to block per MAC address

so I'm pretty sure it will work, but didn't want to commit to buying an unmanaged switch based on my limited knowledge, only to find out I needed to buy a managed switch to achieve this

[chilly heart]

You can always try with blocking the MAC addresses in the router and see from there. Though I've your able to block outgoing traffic based on MAC in the router I don't see why it wouldn't work

[ancient musk]

I’m looking for smart fire/co detectors. Are there any that integrate great with HA?

• United States
• $350 or less
• WiFi

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[devout parrot]

Yeah you'll need mqtt. It's easy to set up though, whether you're running HA as HAOS or Docker.

[dense isle]

Hi everyone, I'm in need of a power strip but I'd like to manage as many of the outlets on it as I can. Any recommendations? I saw this on Amazon but can't tell if it'd be compatible with HA (it's WIFI but I could also do zwave or zigbee on my setup). I'm in the US, Thank you. https://www.amazon.com/Protector-POWSAV-Outlets-Always-Extension/dp/B0B5G6MDQ6/ref=sr_1_19?crid=2TTH23GU9TSSW&keywords=zwave%2Bpower%2Bstrip%2Bsurge%2Bprotector&qid=1706560789&sprefix=zwave%2Bpower%2Bstrip%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-19&th=1

[hasty ice]

Thanks. My main concern is that I'm running out of RP3 and I don't want to overload it too much. I will do some testing.

[fringe crater]

The TPLink one is decent: wifi, local, 6 ports, individually controllable, power monitoring on each

[dense isle]

Nice! Ok, going to check out tplink and see what they got

[fringe crater]

it's the HS300

[dense isle]

I see it now thanks, wish it was wider and not so long but i might be able to make it work

[patent river]

I've got the 3-port one (KP303), works fine

[mild pelican]

anybody around who is using a camera and the go2rtc addon? I'd love to go over how I setup my camera with someone and also tweak a few settings here and there. to me this topic is super complex somehow..

[atomic delta]

I am wondering, is it possible to connect my P1 meter to a esp32, which gathers the data and sends it to my P1monitor docker instance, which is implemented in Home Assistant as integration
Currently my P1 cable is directly connected via USB in my NUC. I would like to put my NUC in a different place, but then I loose the ability to get my readings

[glacial oracle]

this sounds like its possible with something like esphome, at least the reading part
https://github.com/psvanstrom/esphome-p1reader
might remove the monitoring docker instance inbetween altogether

[eternal moss]

Not sure if this is a hardware question or a matter question, but I was instersted in the Door Sensors and the Aqara Door & Window Sensor P2 seem interesting but they are Matter based. Would this be compatible with HA running on a Raspberry Pi with a USB ZigBee wireless module (yes the wireless module has has been extended away from the Raspberry Pi).

[gloomy elbow]

Matter is an overarching system, which does work with HA. The question is what protocol are the devices using to communicate? #thread-archived? #zigbee-archived? #zwave-archived? (Likely #zigbee-archived) and if that is compatible (yes, assuming you set up a network).

[eternal moss]

Ok, let me look deeper into the exact protocol it uses. the product pages just says matter. There is a fine print stating that "a matter-compatible Thread Border Router is required". Let me see more if that indeed means it uses thread

Ah, yes it's Thread found that on the specs page

Ok... I see how this hobby could get expenisive. Some motion detectors and under the cabinet LED strips would be great! maybe a motion detector with night lights. I already did this in the bathroom with a Hue motion detector and light before playing around with HA and it's very convenient.

[unique coral]

I need help, please. Want a Lightswitch. that:

• does ZHA ZigBee (not 2MqTT)
• Is a repeater
• US

Getting lost in the options of Amazon... I found a "dimmer" by Aqara. That says Repeater, but the single doesn't say it.

I bought a Moes and installed it. and it works, but it's not a repeater

  "model": "TS0011",
  "class": "zhaquirks.tuya.ts001x.TuyaSingleNoNeutralSwitch_2"```

I have been here https://zigbee.blakadder.com/zha.html and dont really find a ZHA US model.

Maybe I just need to use the dimmer? even though the bulbs are not dimable?

Model 43080

[eternal moss]

@unique coral been looking for the same thing as well but I'm all new to this. Right now I've been researching Lutron switches. I need it to be able to dim the LED ceiling light and stuff

[unique coral]

I am using ZHA, (not 2mqtt) not sure if that matters, but the 43080 did not work. I was adopted, but it did not turn the standard lights off and on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08428GDS8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

so, two fails for me tonight. fun excercise, install two switches, remove two switches, put it back the way you found it. 😦

...cut power, had to reset clocks.. loads of fun!

trying the Model WS-USC01 manufactured by Aqara

[high cobalt]

Any updates in the zigbee bulb prices did it get any cheaper?

Last I saw was 2 innr zigbee bulbs for the same price as 8 wifi govee bulbs

[void stream]

Hey guys I recently got a few Shelly Plus 1 and Plus 1 mini, and before I got my electrician to wire them I wanted to pre-program and powering them on with 12v DC how do I wire the shelly plus 1 mini I know that on the plus 1 all I have to do is wire it in to Line as negative and 12v as positive but how do I do it on the mini the wiring diagrams are confusing...

[glacial oracle]

Good bulbs cost some money

[outer knot]

Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.

When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:

1. What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
2. What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
3. Is the problem uniform or erratic?
4. What's the exact error message?
5. When did it arise?
6. What exactly don't you "get"?
7. Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?

[raw cosmos]

Hello, I currently have my pergola setup that opens and closes at the roof like in the image and I want to make it smart and control the open and close like the shutters. Can I do it with a Shelly Plus 2PM (https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-plus-2pm) and if so how is the connectivity gonna be?

[unique coral]

https://youtu.be/e0P0HXpUsww?si=VvHbBcYAssgM8n_K

I wonder if I don't have a ground wire. Perhaps they wired it weird. It currently has a white, black & ground... But... Trying Aqara in a day or so... Enbrighten paired with home assistant, but didn't make the lights actually work. HA indicated it was working... But it wasn't. ☹️

[upbeat marsh]

Not sure if this is the right place. I have a few questions about hubs. I just got an Echo Show 8. It has zigbee, zwave, matter, Bluetooth and wifi
The first one is, I understand I may lose some functions, but can it connect to any device that uses those protocols? I.E. lutron, phillips hue, aqara, etc.....

How does/would HA see it as a hub? I looked for an integration but didn't fund one and not sure if going through Amazon develop route is what I need either.

[winged knoll]

Hi, just tried to connect my TuYa TS0210

[winged knoll]

Yes you can, but HA will see nothing

[vague mantle]

So, my water heater is basically my biggest energy consumer (I didn't actually compare :D) and since it has a tank it would be perfect to utilize lower energy prices, but I don't have a lot of access to it:

• manual rotary controller
• old fuse

Any specific pieces that come to mind how to handle control + integration into HAS here?

• for the switch it would need to attach to the housing and turn it, as well as be a bit waterproof... sounds super complicated
• are there any devices that would connect between the fuses plug and the fuse that could be controllable? (can't really adjust anything else in that box, and with how old it is, I don't dare)

[glacial oracle]

Both don't seem easily solvable

[vague mantle]

😕 yes... I was kind of hoping some shelly like device would exist to go into that fuse socket...

[glacial oracle]

At best you'd know the currents and be able to buy a din rail relay to cut power, or diy into a power switch that may or may not be present

For turning a knob and tracking the positions there may even be less pre build options out there

[vague mantle]

I can derive the power from the digital power meter minus all the devices I am measuring. It's obviously only 1 phase for the heater. So 4.1kW would end up with 17-18 A.
I'm not even sure whether the box can take DIN rails... it might be way to old... also changing the cabling is probably not allowed by my landlord (maybe I could get approval if I let an electrician do it)... would need a proper plan though...

Do "modern" fuses / relais work without seperate ground btw? That could be a instant stop then, because I only have the combined ground/protetice conductor in the wall (maybe it arrives separate in the fuse box...)

[glacial oracle]

That may depend on the relay you are looking at and wether or not they switch both line and neutral

Ground shouldn't be switched either way

However I am not sure if you find some that are >16A rated

In theory you could try to repurpose one of their mini relays which aren't din rail sized

[upbeat marsh]

Man. I feel like I screwd the pooch on my cameras. I wanted a doorbell at my front gate and blink had a 3 pack of outdoor camera, the module and a doorbell for less than 150. I hopped on the deal without researching blink to much. I thought an Echo would work with HA, once again I slacked on the research, and I would be able to get live views to the echo. The live viewing was easy. But it appears more and more that is all its good for. Lesson learned.

[glacial oracle]

But a lot of the same applies for those as well

[eternal moss]

black, white, and ground sounds about right. Your black is your "hot" wire. White is neutral. Ground is ground. I live in a 77 year old house so some of the wiring is sketchy. I want to rewire it all.

[unique coral]

Yeah. My house is only 30.
But I wish they hadn't finished the basement so I could rewire things or at least see where things go

[high cobalt]

yep, even the poor ones

[eternal moss]

30 is practically new! So your wiring should be pretty modern. We don't have basements here, so not sure what you mean by finished. Are you referring to the ceiling of the basement being finished, thus covering up where the wires go into the house?

[unique coral]

30 years is on the bubble of the single pole and not. I have some of each.
And also, the basement can be finished by anyone... That may not do things right.

We have a poured foundation, and the house sits on it, so you can "finish" the basement and make it nice . Have to watch out, often water and leaks.

https://tenor.com/view/antonbeef-gif-20011183

That's a silly Gif. And our basement walls are nicer poured concrete, but it gives you the idea.

You could "finish" it and put walls and flooring in. Ect

https://tenor.com/view/it-doesnt-necessarily-matter-bricky-doesnt-matter-not-important-not-a-big-deal-gif-19860127

Silly gifs... But they are showing what I'm trying to show! Lol

So the problem is when they put in a basement ceiling, you now can't look up and see the wiring that was run through the floor (now basement ceiling)

[eternal moss]

@unique coral oh, ok. I gotcha. We don't have basements here for several reasons. When the housing boom happened in the late 40's, 50's and 60's. They built houses quick. Also, California is prone to earthquakes and building earthquake proof homes with basements is a significant cost increase. They always seemed cool to have though. From what I see on TV LOL

[gloomy spoke]

The earthquake concern is way overblown as a reason not to have basements in CA, but they are very, very expensive here for some reason

[eternal moss]

Yeah, it does seem a bit overblown. I have already read about frost lines being a reason, but it doesn't even get that cold here. I did live in a house once that had a "basement" for the furnace. There was a trapdoor in my closet that had a ladder that went down into a small space where the furnace was. Anyway... they say the big one is coming!

[gloomy spoke]

I loved my basement in Illinois and am sad about the lack thereof in California

With land this expensive, it seems utterly logical to build vertically

[jagged crypt]

having lived in the SF Bay area, earthquakes occur. I've also been in very expensive earthquake basements. However, I suspect it's just cheaper to not build in the ground if you don't have to.

hillariously, "why don't houses have basements in TEXAS" is my google auto-complete

google searches return a large number of "it's cheaper to not bother"

[cold moon]

Because our clay soil is fucked

[jagged crypt]

cuz it's cheaper to pour a concrete slab on the ground and build on that

[rose spoke]

Hey guys, i'm very happy with my RPi4/HA OS setup and now i want to raise the WAF. I have an old macropad (no name, 6 keys, aliexpress) and i want to plug it into the raspberry. And then use it as a switch for scenes, automations and so one. My problem: i have no clue how to start. Maybe somebody of you have an idea how to proceed on that..

[random finch]

How much does HA actually care about mutliple cores? I recently rebuilt my homelab on a 12900k server, wondering if I should bother giving the HA vm more than one core

[winged knoll]

Well, it's multi-threaded, and if you're using HAOS then every container is another program

More than one core is a good idea 😉

[random finch]

2 cores it is then 😄

[winged knoll]

For just the Docker container, sure

For a VM with HAOS then ... more would be good

[wild atlas]

Lol Frost lines as a reason to not have a basement, Wisconsin gets COLD every year and most houses have a basement

What I do find interesting though between the North and South is just how badly Southern Homes are built with regard to cold tolerance, water lines in exterior walls, no way to drain external taps, and water mains are just barely underground, or even above ground

The water line into my house is above ground, just wrapped with some insulation, then every time a big freeze comes to town it's like half the homes have busted lines due to stupid construction

[wild atlas]

😂 because theyd be indoor swimming pools

[jagged crypt]

that would be houston, no, versus other parts

[random finch]

It's the full VM, yeah. I figured the 12900k would be overkill enough that I can skimp on the cores. I'm seeing on average <5% CPU usage, would it really benefit from more?

[fallen nexus]

About thermostats:
Are the cool/heat cycle settings like hardware parameters that must be right?

I reset my apartment's thermostat so I could pair it with my zwave adapter. But I didn't think to mark down any configuration stuff. Now I'm afraid I may damage the system by having it set up wrong. (It's a 5 wire thermostat if that matters.)

I'm pretty sure a different company set this stuff up and no one here knows how it works. Also I'm afraid if I ask they'll just say "we'll send someone to fix/replace it", which means undoing my work (and possibly fining me if they replaced it)

This is my first apartment outside of student dorm/apartments. So I'm used to management treating me like a child and may have the wrong idea on how normal apartment management works, lol

[winged knoll]

Some very basic thermostats have no electronics at all and just a bimetallic strip

There's no cycle settings at all, just physics in how the strip behaves

The question though is really... what settings are you asking about?

[gloomy spoke]

Bi Metallic strip + mercury switch FTW

[fallen nexus]

Oh, so I'm guessing it's hard to break accidentally then.
I tried looking into the way it works a bit, and it sounds like it's just "Give this power to turn AC on. Give this power to turn heat on" and just a relay could in theory work.

[winged knoll]

Yup, that's basically all they are - a sensor, some electronics, and a relay or two

[eternal moss]

I was thinking the same thing!

[fallen nexus]

It only asks on the initial set up after a reset. I can't find the options now.
Although I guess that means writing down the settings before resetting wasn't even an option

I just remember that the first 2 were heat/cool cycle and asked for a number

[winged knoll]

Google the make and model and the word "manual"

If that fails then you could try #zwave-archived and hope somebody else has one

[fallen nexus]

I was debating trying to build my own smart thermostat for home assistant, not because it would be the best or cheapest, but because I could say "I built my own thermostat" then send a picture of some comically janky-looking monstrosity.

[tall ermine]

not until I can figure why these Aqara sensors are doing this to me 🙂 https://imgur.com/zHoqiXh

[cold moon]

Corrupted data line

[winged knoll]

Sensors? That looks like lighting

[tall ermine]

I was thinking this too it might be the lights as I think the lights above it don't do it and they are old lights too! . It's not the setting on the lights though but I will remove them and try to repair and see if it carries on get some new ones and recommendations on any good ones I been through a lot of them 🙂 Can you see why it was hard for me to explain it. hope your eyes are ok it does mine in 🤣

[outer knot]

@tall ermine When using Discord's Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Use Shift + click on the Reply option, or click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.

You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).

[cold moon]

he's not going to change dude

[winged knoll]

Nope

So... blocklist it is

[cold moon]

i've tried

[winged knoll]

https://tenor.com/view/critical-bard-cb-critbard-block-blocked-gif-17797062

[tall ermine]

Hope I get this right or I'm In Trouble god knows How is going to know he won't get a ping 🤣 🤦🏻‍♂️ But I Turned it to @off now https://imgur.com/a/quPXOEX

[tall ermine]

Two bugs in one are fixed now! my lights are working finely! was the adaptor causing it to flash! I just swapped it over for a different type as I save them when the strip light breaks! https://imgur.com/a/cK1WhLA

[white halo]

Hey, I saw you talking about connecting your LoRaWAN gateway to HA. I'm having some trouble doing this via MQTT and The Things Network. I'm using a sensecap M2 as my gateway. Any chance you are utilizing The Things Network?

[patent river]

Sorry probably can't help, only use MQTT directly with mine, the LoRa gateway talks directly to HA's mosquitto server.
Looked at the cloud services, didn't really have anything that I needed for the way I'm using it.

[still sapphire]

This is only vaguely related, but: if you want a nice small HA panel somewhere, I think my approach would involve an affordable phone with fully kiosk. Anyone got any recommendations for phones for those sort of purposes?

[cold moon]

no, usually people prefer used android tablets or fire tablets with fire toolbox to remove amazon's fluff and ads then using fully kiosk to automate via hass

[still sapphire]

I have a 10” tablet in one place, but I want smaller (and hopefully less power) in another place or two. I suppose Fire tablets would be nice if they existed here.

[cold moon]

i believe you can get better cheaper android tablets used vs fire tablets new but maybe it's just market dependent

[frosty spruce]

I have a Google Coral.ai Edge TPU Coproccessor USB stick and connected it via a powered USB3 Hub to my Intel NUC (running HA OS). For some reason the hardware is not recognised? What can I do?

[high cobalt]

Hello, I have split ACs that I control using Zigbee IR remotes, but I can’t know if the ACs are currently on or off, do you guys have any recommendations as to know how?

• I tried a vibration sensor (didn’t vibrate enough to get picked up)
• The ACs are wired directly to the mains, so I can’t use a smart plug/socket to monitor the energy
• Figured I could get a smart breaker with energy monitoring (but found none that is compatible)

So do you guys have any suggestions?

[golden thorn]

You can use a inline power monitoring module.

[cold moon]

Figured I could get a smart breaker with energy monitoring (but found none that is compatible) can you expand on this?

none that are compatible with what? hass?

https://iotawatt.com/ this is popular

or https://github.com/emporia-vue-local/esphome with the emporia vue 2

[wild atlas]

yeah, you don't want inline energy monitoring, since high current == hard to build that, but the clamp on sensors work perfectly for it

which is how the emporia vue and iotawatt do it

[golden thorn]

What do you mean with "hard to build that"?

[still sapphire]

Monitoring high currents using a shunt resistor is hard. Just, physically, requires a very low resistance that is very accurate and capable of very high current. And that item is just going to be really expensive, no matter what.

There’s a reason that electricity meters — like the ones your electricity company uses to bill you — use current transformers.

[golden thorn]

Should be good enough to roughly check if it's on, no?

[wild atlas]

anything around high currents is hard to do, every extra bit of resistance is heat generation, and potential for fire too

clamp on current monitoring lets you avoid the current altogether and just take measurements on magnetic fields

also they can be MUCH cheaper than inline components

and just as accurate

[half leaf]

ORANGEPI

[golden thorn]

CT based modules are 2-3x as expensive from what I can see. They are probably a lot safer though. I chose to trust that my devices can handle their rated current. They have for years now.

[high cobalt]

Couldn’t find one that can be installed in my electric panel, since the “unique” wiring of my country : )

[high cobalt]

Couldn’t find any with 20+A ratings, most of what I found were 13,16A

• I’d rather use a clamp energy monitor, but why isn’t there a battery powered clamp energy monitor?

[golden thorn]

Yeah for such high current I'd recommend a CT one too. I use mine for things with < 16A but I have 230V~. I'm not sure devices like this can properly sleep and still be accurate.

[jagged crypt]

Think about that for a minute.....

[high cobalt]

Well, the clamp ammeter is battery powered, the only thing left is sending the readings to HA

And Zigbee battery devices sends data all day for years,

So in theory you could hack a temperature sensor and hook it to the ammeter to send the readings of the amperage instead of the temperature.

Yes the ammeter’s battery would die way before the temp sensor, but it’s doable

[high cobalt]

Doesn’t have to be accurate, all I need is
> 250 watts = off, otherwise its on

[winged knoll]

ORANGEPI

[high cobalt]

My ACs' "Rated Power Input" are 3450 W [230V/15A], would (Shelly PM Mini Gen3) be sufficient, or should I look for a power meter with a higher current rating to be safe?

[rose spoke]

Hi folks, i guess nobody noticed my question.. next try:
Hey guys, i'm very happy with my RPi4/HA OS setup and now i want to raise the WAF. I have an old macropad (no name, 6 keys, aliexpress) and i want to plug it into the raspberry. And then use it as a switch for scenes, automations and so one. My problem: i have no clue how to start. Maybe somebody of you have an idea how to proceed on that..

[high cobalt]

And will it even work in a three phase system? I.e no neutral, two live wires each at 110V

[winged knoll]

You'll need an #integrations-archived for it, and if it's a no-name device the odds are not good

[minor quiver]

Hey guys! Do you have any solid wall mount tablet recommendations, in the 10-12" range? An important aspect would be built-in presence detection w/ screensaver - I've tried Fully Kiosk, but their camera or audio based detection is very hit and miss, and the screensaver bugs out after about 4-5 days of use, getting to a point where it just won't dismiss the screensaver and needs a hard reboot (long power button press), as any other inputs are ignored.

I've looked at some of the Tuya wall panel options, and since the Android ones should be rootable, they're something I might try... But the pricing is insane on them, $400-600... For that I can get a much more powerful tablet and a handful of Zigbee/Matter relays.

[still sapphire]

I have no problem with my fully kiosk camera based detection. Is it not just that you have a tablet with a shit camera?

(I have a bmax i10 pro, which is the finest of $80 10” tablets AliExpress offers, so it’s not like I do real good hardware)

I don’t use the screensaver, though, I just turn the screen off. Having it display a screensaver to an empty room just isn’t my jam.

[kind creek]

Looking to buy smoke + CO detector, cloud integration (wifi) or Zigbee. Recommendations? Any budget.

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[golden thorn]

I use shelly 1 PM for two of mine with tasmota. They have been working fine.

[high cobalt]

Do you know about the 3 phase situation?

[golden thorn]

What are you referring to?

[high cobalt]

this

[golden thorn]

Sorry, didn't see that. No.

[high cobalt]

https://tenor.com/view/you-have-no-idea-gif-27149353

So now what

[golden thorn]

I chose two PZEM-004Ts and a ESP8266 with tasmota for my HOB but not sure if I would recommend that. I'll let someone else suggest you something for that specific setup.

[high cobalt]

But all my Zigbee sockets and boiler switches say Live & Neutral, and they all work normally even with energy metering

Why would shelly act differently?

[golden thorn]

That no was meant for

Do you know about the 3 phase situation?
Not whether it works. So basically I have no clue. Or at least I'm not comfortable enough in my knowledge to share it with you.

[high cobalt]

Oh, okay then no problem

[high cobalt]

Why wouldn’t you recommend the PZEM? Wouldn’t it work?

[golden thorn]

It's a little bit of work and tends to be untidy. I'd prefer something more ready-made when possible.

[high cobalt]

I agree, and to be honest I would prefer not to wire a long usb cable just for the esp

[eternal moss]

Just ordered an Aqara Presence Sensor FP2 to mess around with Hopefully it works out. Plan to use it to turn on lights and maybe more. (Edited: because I was confused thinking it was thread based but it's actually Wi-Fi)

[gloomy spoke]

that's wifi, unrelated to Skyconnect

FP1 was Zigbee

[eternal moss]

actually, you're right!

I confused it with the Eve motion sensor I was looking at, which was thread based

But since it's Wi-Fi it should work as well

at least it should from the videos and reports I've seen

[knotty hill]

This might not be the right to place ask:

I have a 2012 Mac Mini that is currently booting via USB to a 500GB SSD running Ubuntu. I want to run HA on it. Is there a huge benefit from me getting an SSD that replaced the internal SSD, or will my USB boot be fine?

[cold moon]

if it's usb 3.0 yolo i guess

you're not gonna be doing anything on haos to hit any limits with usb3 so save the funds

[knotty hill]

that was my thought. I know its a usb-c drive, but i think it might be uSZB 2.0 not sure on te 2012 if they had usb 3.0

[winged knoll]

That'd be four years after the spec for 3.0 was published

[tiny fulcrum]

Hi All, any pointers for cheapish chain drive blind motors? Don't really care between zigbee / wifi / 433MHz, but ideally non-cloud (or known seller who has hardware that you can reflash)

[gloomy elbow]

My Aqara ones are great.

[knotty hill]

You might be right. I got everything I could on it when I bought it. No SSD for it. I guess ill@check the specs and make sure it’s plugged into the 3.0 one of one of them is specific

It does look like they have 3.0 on it

[tame escarp]

I'm upgrading house to HA, the house is full to the brim with ZigBee smart lights, every room, probably like 30 or so. Smart speakers in every room, so about 8. Would a 2gb rpi 4 cut it?

Or 4gb..

[jagged crypt]

get a small form factor PC, and not worry about it

the beelink keeps getting put up here should be good, or any of the older business SFF boxes, dell/hp/lenovo - https://www.servethehome.com/introducing-project-tinyminimicro-home-lab-revolution/ - <$200 (100-125 easily possible), run hypervisor or on bare metal.

idle power consumption will be 15-20 watts

[unique coral]

Hey ya'll for those that remeber my last issue, I determined that it was a "no neutral" situation, but they used the wrong wire colors.

I left the Aqara in but I think the Moes works. I am not getting it to be a repeater. I am thinking its becasue its a "no netral" situation. the "enbrighten" worked as a rpeater, but didnt make the lights work!

Moving ON. LED lights. I am looking for the video that shows you the choices.
Choice A - Amazon wifi, etc
Choice B - these little micro controllers or something?
choice c? - then there is this word "addressable" that keeps coming up

Anyone have a guide for dummies? I call it a "waterfall" of decision making process? Dont assume I know anything! lol

[cold moon]

either watch quindor's videos on youtube or read his documentation on his website https://quinled.info/addressable-digital-leds/ lots of info

[full dagger]

Having trouble setting up a new Aqara mini switch. I enter pairing mode but ZHA isn't finding it. HA Green with Skyconnect set up.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-WXKG11LM-Switch-Wireless-Remote/dp/B07D19YXND/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1J7DCG3BMYGA7

This is the device. As far as I understand, having a Zigbee (SkyConnect) in my HA should allow this to work without a hub.

Might have just got it working. Had to hold the pair button much longer than I thought...

Except I think it is not detecting it as a switch, but as a battery

[cold moon]

jump to #zigbee-archived for zigbee stuff- it might've not paired fully. sometimes after you start pairing an aqara device you have to keep pressing the button every 1second or so to get it to not go to sleep while it's pairing

[full dagger]

I found single, double, and long press as options so I think it worked! Thanks tho

[cold moon]

also battery devices should be paired in their final location so they get the best parent in the mesh for gud routes

[full dagger]

Good thinking. My mesh now has 1 device, but I will keep it in mind for future devices

[cold moon]

aqara end devices (battery), specifically zigbee 1.2, will often not migrate to a better parent and will need to be re-join to the mesh whenever you eventually add some mains devices to act as repeaters

and your device is an aqara 1.2 device i believe

the new aqara zigbee 3.0 ones either say P1 or T1 or E1 at the end of them

[full dagger]

Yeah thats what I was told about Zigbee 1.2, but I wanted to test this out since I don't really need it to be a key part of the mesh, and I have a pretty small house anyway. I have E1 door sensors on the way though and they'll use 3.0

[cold moon]

i still use them they work fine, just gotta keep that in mind

[unique coral]

https://tenor.com/view/weekend-party-champagne-gif-18280013

[fallen nexus]

I'm wanting to switch out my apartment's light switches.
All of the lights are LED panels designed to look like a recessed traditional light. Does this affect the type of switch I should get?

I have 1 light/panel attached to 2 switches. Those 2 switches each have 4 terminals
The rest are normal single-way switches. All of those are 3 terminal switches (although 1 has only 2 wires attached)
All of the switches I've checked have a 15A rating. This is in the US if that matters

Not sure if this is the best channel for that question, but it's technically a hardware question. Should I ask in diy instead?

[cold moon]

no hardware is good

i just cant picture what you are saying

[fallen nexus]

This is what my lights look like.
But there aren't bulbs behind the diffuser, just a flat pcb board with a bunch of LEDs on it. And it seems to be hooked up straight to wires in the wall.

[cold moon]

ah i see

well you might run into issues where those flicker if you use a smart dimmer

but i'm no expert on that. i like smart bulbs / fixtures + smart switch combos

but basically when looking at smart switches you just find ones that support 3way, 4way, virtual 3 way, whatever you need and then follow the manufacturer directions on not to exceed whatever amperage. there are limitations for fans and resistive loads and incandescent i think

[slow lark]

Okay, so I have this really old DuoTherm AC system built into my camper. I would like to automate it with homeassistant if I can, but I don't exactly know the best way of going about this. I could either use some relays and figure out the wiring, or some servos to control the knobs. What do you think my best option is? And has anyone else done something similar?

And no, it does not have a separate thermostat. The only controls are on the unit itself.

And I do not want to buy another ac unit. They are super expensive, and this one works perfectly fine. I've had it ice cold in there at almost 100° outside.

[vague mantle]

no solution, but I want to do something similar #hardware-archived message

[forest pike]

should i actually be worried about PSUs from aliexpress catching fire? i ordered some 36W 24V transformers to drive some LED strips https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004983541232.html

[vague mantle]

I really wish these things wouldve become a product:
https://www.frolicstudio.com/portfolio/smartians

[high cobalt]

Good evening, does anyone know if (Shelly PM Mini Gen3) will work in a 3 phase electrical system? [i.e. no neutral wires, two live wires each at 110V]

[ocean wave]

Hey 🙂 does this work with HomeAssistant OS? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32832914936.html

[glacial oracle]

likely yes but this isnt necessarily a good choice for your money

its 11 year old hardware

[ocean wave]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005234838380.html this is much newer, right?

[glacial oracle]

yes

[ocean wave]

I'd like to stay around 100€

[glacial oracle]

yea that makes more sense

[ocean wave]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005776132222.html

that one is probably an even better choice, right? it's higher in benchmarks and the N100 seems to be a cpu from 2023

[glacial oracle]

something with an n100 is a good choice
the quality of those systems may vary but i couldnt tell you which one is the better one

depends mostly on what every profile they created and how their cooling solution looks like

for haos any will work just fine

[vague mantle]

There's also the N95 which is the same age as the n100 but has higher TDP... but probably only worth if you actually plan for some load...

[ocean wave]

I'm getting the N100... I also have a Zigbee dongle in my cart, because I want to do Zigbee2MQTT

anything else I need?

[vague mantle]

Power brick? (if not included, ah nvm it should be)

[ocean wave]

I think it is... there is a quick installation graphic that says: "Connect the power supply via the DC adapter (factory accessories)"

it also says lower in the description "Currently we only offer EU plugs"

but nowhere do they actually say that one is included 🤣

alright, order placed... thanks for your help @vague mantle @glacial oracle
can't wait to finally be able to control my TRV with the temperature of an external sensor 😍

[heady crater]

Is there a way to set up low voltage wiring in walls for devices like esp32s so I don't have to have wall warts and cables at every point?

Like a hard wired transformer at a gang box or something

I have a 3d printer and can design something in cad for an enclosure, just need to figure out the power part

[cold moon]

https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-octa/ I’m deploying a few of these in the house and running 18/3 drops for them

[heady crater]

Don't know if that's what I mean, I'm using these esp32s as presence sensors

[cold moon]

I see

[heady crater]

That seems like one led controller for multiple rooms, no?

[cold moon]

Yea I misread I guess

You just can’t 5v

[heady crater]

Still a cool find though

Led stuff was on my "eventually" list

[cold moon]

Well due to voltage drop 5v can’t go far

And esp32 are 5v

[heady crater]

Right

[cold moon]

So you’d have to have 24v in walls and 24v to 5v buck converter at the end

[heady crater]

That's why I was thinking some sort of USB box that is in the wall but hardwired to a gang box at an existing outlet

Yeah on only have 24v AC at two thermostats

[cold moon]

I think an electrician would laugh if you said that to them

[heady crater]

I know

Looking for a balance of a clean look and a house burned to the ground

The only other idea I had was a power over Ethernet switch and a Poe USB splitter

That wouldn't be too bad at least for my bottom floor

[cold moon]

That works

I use that to power a wall tablet

[heady crater]

Yeah I'm in the process of mounting one too

[cold moon]

You can buy outlets with usb ports in them but I’ve heard bad things like they just are shit quality compared to traditional outlets

[slow lark]

That would be nice.

I mean, ESPHome does have a Servo class. You can program different angles as "Switches".

Or more specifically, you can program a set of motions as a action, which can be applied to a Switch or Button object. Or a list object. Fan speed dial, anyone? 😄

[cold moon]

That’s just switchbot with a cloud lol

[vague mantle]

well wtb rotary switchbot? D:

[slow lark]

Idk that there is a rotary switchbot. I mean, with ESPHome and a Servo, you could pretty much make the same thing.

[cold moon]

I see cloud I cry

[slow lark]

You know what would be cool, an app or website that auto-generates the correct code for ESPHome based on angles and measurements you give it so it can create the servo system effortlessly.

[cold moon]

I’d be surprised if a 15 year old kid doesn’t have that made on some random repo lol

[urban skiff]

Hi guys... I'm looking for some recommended power metering devices that will work with HA and also give me a list of my various electrical home devices power usage... as I have incredibly high electricity bills and we have done all that's been recommended to us to reduce our bills... buying all new A rated appliances and upgrading all our lighting to LED... but the Always On and Other categories are still crazy high and consistently keeping our bills high... would a power metering device isolate an individual device and help us find out what's going on...?

[vague mantle]

tbh before buying new appliances finding out which room / which device consumes how much shouldve been the first step...
there're plugs that measure the power (so you can check one wall plug / device after another) that should be the first step
there're also devices that go into the wall, or fuse box to measure one circuit
and there're devices that measure the overall power draw... maybe you even already have a digital meter / smart meter
Stuff in the fuse box / wall plug should be installed by an electrician, although I think there are those that are measuring with "clamps" around the existing cables...

they work with different protocols, if you wanna use zigbee for example you will need a device (usb stick) to work as hub
but there is a list of supported devices
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/

Either way... you should find a lot just hitting google, so you might wanna be a bit more specific.
I also just found this, which looks interesting: https://www.hadevices.com/

[slow lark]

It'd be nice is there was a HADevices website for supported LOCAL hardware. Either through LibreTuya, ESPHome, or just local access by the manufacturer. No cloud.

[winged knoll]

The problem is there's been dozens of them, almost all abandoned

https://blakadder.com/ has two semi-managed lists

[eternal moss]

Last night I received my Aqara Presence Sensor FP2 but was having trouble with HA discovering it. Not sure if it's due to the various VLAN's on my home network. My HA is connected to the Ethernet which is on one VLAN and my 2Ghz Wi-Fi network is on another VLAN. I did create a policy allowing the HA to access the 2Ghz Wi-Fi VLAN and vice versa. No luck.

I guess I'll poke around with it more this weekend and maybe do some packet captures to see what's going on behind the scene.

Not entirely sure how HA discovers devices over Wi-Fi though.

[crude mauve]

I have a light fixture with three light bulbs I'm currently controlling through Home Assistant with zigbee
The fixture power goes through a wall rocker switch and right now the switch is remaining "on" in order to allow the light bulbs to be powered on and controllable

I want to also control this light fixture through a wall switch (ideally the one that already is there)

What can I do?

If they were just dumb light bulbs I'd have bought and installed one of those smart relays like the SONOFF mini (I already did so with a water heater) but since all I actually want is a device that through the rocker switch tells HA to turn on the lights what should I buy?

[winged knoll]

You need a smart switch or module that has smart bulb mode

[crude mauve]

Can you point me towards one you think would be useful in my case?

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[crude mauve]

I'm sorry, forgot about that

Country is Italy, budget is indifferent, protocol zigbee and no additional features needed

[tired bridge]

With even local tuya needing API access with basic resources, and the free trail expiring every 6monts, what's the best way to handle tuya devices?
I hate the downtime where everything in my home breaks

[winged knoll]

Replace them with something not cloud based

[tired bridge]

i have 10 already :/
will look into stuff that does not rely on the cloud. any suggestions for plugs/led strips that don't break the bank?

[winged knoll]

Zigbee

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[tired bridge]

I'm in Romania
I found plugs for less than $10, and 5m led strips for <$20, so...possible around that?
I really prefer wifi
Not really

[glacial oracle]

you usually tend to get the good stuff by paying good money

[terse pebble]

"Buy cheap, buy twice" is correct often - unfortunately

[cold moon]

Wled is a great way to have cheap local controlled WiFi led strips. Either buy premade controllers or follow a guide a tinker to make your own

[tired bridge]

Hmmm..I do have some old IR LED bands i could dig up and convert to WLED

[eternal moss]

Also, WLED is fun!

[eternal moss]

Ok, so I got the Aqara Presence Sensor FP2 working. No Apple products involved (thankfully). Well, Apple hardware at least. After tinkering with it and setting it up on my Google Pixel phone. It wouldn't show up. So, I reset it by holding down the button for 10 seconds, scratching my head for a bit because that didn't work, so I rebooted it (pulled the power and plugged it back in) and then I went through the process of adding it on my phone again because resetting it made it go away and voila it showed up in HA and I was able to add it.

I should note that after adding it back to my phone, I didn't bother to setup anything else. Like I didn't setup any spatial stuff. I may do that next to see what happens.

Hopefully this helps anyone using this device and doesn't use any Apple products

[twin bane]

Good morning
does anybody know any cheap hardware that can be used to remote de-/ activate a door bell?
It is a rental, so only the door bell inside can be modified.

[rich shuttle]

how's the doorbell powered? If it's mains powered then I'd use a smart switch to just turn the power off.

If you can't do that then you could do an ESP8266 relay board with ESPHome and just run the switch circuit through it and hold it open.

[twin bane]

I will need to measure, but I think the door bell curcuit at the front door is 5-10 V and the bell inside the apartment is unpowered until someone rings the door.

[rich shuttle]

Ok so you just need some kind of relay - depends how diy you want to be.

eg. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006095458339.html - use a 5v USB adapter to power it and ESPHOME (https://community.home-assistant.io/t/esp-01-relay-board-configuration/274335)

[smoky moth]

Hi guys, does anyone of you know a shelly dimmer 2 LAN instead of wifi? One that I can put in my junction boxes if I run an extra ethernet cable from the fusebox to the junction box.

Don't care if it's from a different brand

[wraith bramble]

Hi, I'm new to HA and I'm a fan of internet radios
I'm really happy to see that they are integrated and available basically out of the box, but right now I'm only able to play through a browser on my PC, which is not ideal
I have a nice set of speakers with aux 3.5mm jack input and I'm wondering if there is an elegant solution for making them available as a playback device in Home Assistant
I'm running HAOS on Home Assistant Green btw
Are there any off the shelf adapters to make aux available through Wi-Fi? I have a Bluetooth adapter, but futsing about with a BT proxy seems like a lot of hassle and middlemen for a relatively "simple" thing

[cold moon]

I thought multi zone and other features required their app and couldn’t be setup via HomeKit

[eternal moss]

You use the Aqara app to setup the size of the zone (i.e., the room it's in), the edges of the zone (maybe you want to set a limit to presence detection), and things like that. I can take screenshots of that later if it's helpful. I'm about to get ready to go to a car show, else I'd do it right now. Right now in HA it tells me if there is a presence in the room or not and how much light there is in the room. Kind of cool so far, but I haven't had more time to play around with it or look much further. My short term goal to use it to turn on lights.

[still sapphire]

You could do it potentially more easily with a smart socket type thing, a 5V power supply, and a 5V relay with a NC contact (or maybe an NO contact, depends how much time you want it working vs not). But totting it up I’m not convinced that’s actually less hardware.

[drifting grove]

Anybody have any experience with Vont devices? Got this smart bulb as a gift

Took it apart to see if I could flash it

Idk if I can get the board out

Seems to be soldered at the bottom and glued

Found a yt vid!

https://youtu.be/92F7DqQrZWg?si=BiLk8R1wjZ2pZJn1

[cold moon]

you took it apart before looking it up? lol

i think there are tricks to not ruin the diffuser

[drifting grove]

Literally just pulls off and snaps back on 💀

[still sapphire]

Im not sure if this is allowed here, since it’s not really directly HA related hardware, but it is part of automating my home… I replaced some of my less accessible wall clocks with DCF radio controlled ones, so I don’t have to set the time every six months when the clock changes by an hour. But the time between battery changes is still going to be, presumably, about the same, since it’s the same AA battery, and if anything the radio receiver and the quick-setting mechanism would steal some power.

So what can you do about that? Are there battery cases that parallel up a bunch of AAs, or maybe even one or more C or Ds? That should help immensely, right? Has anyone here dealt with that before by any chance? I can, of course, home brew something — especially a multi-AA parallel arrangement should be pretty doable. But if there is a Standard Way out there I can just buy, then… that.

Oh. I finally figured out the right search terms. https://www.american-time.com/product/kit-battery-pack-with-dummy-battery-with-batteries/#:~:text=A battery-operated clock typically,wall clocks ticking on time.

[forest pike]

How do you guys work with or work around electrical regulations, required certifications, inspections, etc. for new build or new installs in USA?

I have a friend who is doing a new build and I was talking to him about the ZigBee modules I was going to try out for my old house. He brought it up with his electrician who said they cannot install anything not certified

Do people just install this hardware after inspections and stuff?

Any concerns about fires and insurance not covering it and what not?

[pliant forum]

Typically this is what I see yeah.

It may be better just going for Zigbee/Z-Wave/Lutron switches though

[forest pike]

Is that safe though? Or at least safe enough?

[pliant forum]

I mean usually they install it after they close

I wouldn’t recommend stuff that isn’t atleast ETL certified

UL certified is preferable

[forest pike]

What about CE?

[pliant forum]

Never seen that one I don’t think

I’m in the United States so that could be why

[forest pike]

Gotcha okay

[forest pike]

Bad idea to do the moes smart modules from AliExpress? Those are the ones I'm going to try out and was telling him about. Should I dissuade him from those?

[pliant forum]

I would generally avoid wired products from AliExpress

Battery products I wouldn’t be so worried about

[forest pike]

Right on okay

Any recommended ZigBee modules like the moes ones that are locally made?

Or at least more trustworthy

[forest pike]

Actually before that, would you avoid dumb switches as well? This one's more for me, I was thinking I was going to buy some better looking light switches from AliExpress as well

[pliant forum]

If Moes has a certification for safety it’s fine. I just meant in general because a lot of stuff on AliExpress doesn’t have a safety certification

[pliant forum]

If it has a safety certification I’d say it’s fine.

[forest pike]

Ah, fair enough. I'll reach out and see if these guys have the certification for the dumb switches. They said it should be safe in USA and can handle the voltages and currents that we use, but you never know

[pliant forum]

👍

[tawny viper]

A safety certificate by AliExpress comforts me as much as the flash drives that say 2tb

Lol

[pliant forum]

I meant check the brand, not just what AliExpress says lol. I don’t trust just Ali

[tawny viper]

https://tenor.com/view/tommy-boy-guarantee-dump-chris-farley-david-spade-gif-19946696

[forest pike]

Hahaha that was my concern as well but I guess no harm in asking at least

[solemn robin]

I have a pi zero 2w with respeaker hat and have set up voice assistant with Wyoming protocol, which is working. Now, I am trying to connect my phone via Bluetooth and also connect Spotify to my pi 2 w but am stuck bc I cannot for the life of me try to get the Bluetooth and Spotify to play through the respeaker speaker. Any one else have these issues and can help me out?

[terse pebble]

@smoky moth Regarding your question in #general-archived :
Soon
https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-pro-dimmer-1-pm/shelly-pro-dimmer-2-pm

[fallen nexus]

Been looking for a smart switch that could control a a ceiling fan with speed settings. As far as I can tell, Innoveli's Zigbee and Thread/Matter ones are the only 2 options that exist, Is that right? (I'm in the US if that matters)
I live in an apartment, so I don't really want to deal with a canopy box thing.

Well and Innoveli's ZWave one that was discontinued and is never coming back according to them

[smoky moth]

Thanks but I ment something that fits in a juntionbox. Not a fusebox. I mean something like the non-pro dimmer 2 only with an ethernet port.
Or is there a junctionbox that fits a dinrail so I can use the pro 2?

[cold moon]

Moes is ‘fancy tuya’ junk

[pliant forum]

GE fan controller, Honeywell fan controller and Lutron Caseta fan controller are some other options

Aswell as HomeSeer

HomeSeer, GE and Honeywell are all zwave

I think GE does have a zigbee variant aswell

Make sure your fan is an AC Motor though and not DC

DC fans typically have a remote and turn on really fast. AC motors usually don’t have a remote (or sometimes do) but take longer to spin up.

Double check the model # to be sure

[cold moon]

Sonoff ifan04 is what the cool kids use now

I have one but haven’t played with it yet

[pliant forum]

Does that have a physical wall switch?

[cold moon]

No you’d pair it with any smart switch you want

And use the remote if wanted

[pliant forum]

Ah, eh. I would rather just replace the switch at that point with a smart fan controller

[cold moon]

Assuming the fan is even wired for that

[pliant forum]

Yeah that’s a good point

[cold moon]

This works with a single switch no traveler fan light combo

With full speed and light control

[pliant forum]

A lot of houses don’t have dual hot conductors at the fan for light/motor

Yeah

[cold moon]

Mine don’t

I’m using zooz zen71/76 right now even tho they aren’t rated for it

No fire 🔥 yet lol

[pliant forum]

Some builders by me are replacing dual switches with just a fan remote and single switch

I hate it.

2 switches any day over a remote

[cold moon]

Yea

I like dual switch single gang multi switches like the zooz double switch tho

[pliant forum]

I prefer separate just because it’s easier to feel in the dark

[cold moon]

Kinky

[pliant forum]

lol. If it’s a 4 or 5 gang + plus I’d rather a single gang fan controller though

[cold moon]

If you’re hitting switches in the dark then you’re smart homing wrong

I literally only hit physical switches to override automations only

[pliant forum]

Yeah I don’t have a ton of lighting automations

[pastel bough]

Hi all, I have a couple Eve Thermo devices installed in my home. They work fine, however I was not able to rotate their displays like I could in the Eve application. All of them are installed in a way that display is upside down right now. Do any of you know if its possible to rotate the display in Home Assistant?

[cold moon]

Sadcat

I setup an fp1 zone to know when I’m entering or exiting the bed lol

[pliant forum]

Haven’t figured out how to get bedroom lights to turn on appropriately with a motion/mmwave sensor. Don’t want it to turn on randomly in the middle of the night

[cold moon]

To trigger leds under bed

[kind wind]

I've searched the web most of the day without finding an answer. hoping to find it here. Can I connect a shelly dimmer to a light circuit in a 3 way or 4 way configuration? Does anyone have a schematic/block diagram they can share? thanks in advance.

[tawny viper]

the inovelli blue fan canopy?

[cold moon]

Huh

[tawny viper]

https://inovelli.com/products/zigbee-blue-series-smart-fan-light-canopy-module

[cold moon]

You’re linking a product that hasn’t even finished production dude

But it’s exactly what you’d want to pair with a blue switch

At that point I’d replace the fan and run new romex before I used it on trying to smart an ancient fan

[tawny viper]

I have a spot for a fan, but no freaken clue where the wires lead, and its about to ship...

lol

[cold moon]

Figure it out before summer attic fun

[shrewd rain]

my hardware question regarding esphome and an esp32 device. I am able to confirm that most of my assumptions are correct. i have an esp32-c3-lcdkit and can confirm that the esphome is linked correctly because homeassistant does read the wifi and an uptime counter. Home assist is capable of turning the LCDbacklight on and off. so i am fairly certain i have the right pin out diagram. What are the pin requirements (which ones should i configure not which ones are they) to get the display to show text?

[cold moon]

honestly man esphome is kind of a wild wild west thing. you can post in #diy-archived for esp32 related things, but really most people will point you directly to the esphome discord. ultimately you'll probably end up disappointed without a very specific question in mind and someone willing and able to help.

[outer knot]

@shrewd rain ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.

You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.

[cold moon]

follow the discord link to get to esphome discord^

#1189821643170775040

here's a thread of the only person i found talking about "esp32-c3-lcdkit" in the esphome discord server lol

[shrewd rain]

Yeah thanks. I prefer to yell into the void in the right place than clogging up the wrong places then everyone is just pissed off. I head over to github. I know that the app and home assist are working correctly. its a diy project, but in reality i need an education more than you need a pointless bugreport.

[fallen nexus]

Does this look like it's an AC fan?

[fallen nexus]

Never mind, it literally says "AC input" on the switch, lol

[pliant forum]

You need to look at the fan itself

Judging by that switch I’d think it’s AC though

[cold moon]

you really need to be safe doing this

that fan controller could've been installed by not-the-smartest and you pulling on that fan controller might loosen the wire nuts that arent installed correctly

[glacial oracle]

[cold moon]

dude every light switch i replace in this house doesnt even have ground connected

the amount of jank in US construction (increasing exponentially with time) is insane

[forest pike]

For those smart ZigBee modules which can be installed behind light switches, does the switch itself have lots of power going through it or is it just treated like a low power input into the module to trigger light on/off?

[cold moon]

you either install UL certified shit and or ETL and that's it

i personally would never install nor suggest something made in china by china, such as tuya stuff (including moes) specifically for mains powered devices

[forest pike]

Ya I'm gonna tell him about all this and keep my mouth shut moving forward hahaha

[cold moon]

why

[forest pike]

Why what? I don't want to give bad advice which could cause him issues or worse, harm

[cold moon]

keep your mouth shut about what?

there are plenty of quality smart home products to suggest

[tawny viper]

Sir

this is te internet,

[forest pike]

Well this conversation started when I was telling him about the hardware I had ordered to fuck around with (mostly moes and a couple of tuya things). He seemed interested so I went into more detail. Clearly if he does it my way he could be in trouble. I'll just tell him to consult a professional instead

[cold moon]

i wouldnt do that

i would just explain as you learn more

and give advice that you know is accurate

i mean some people buy a jeep and go years before they realized they fucked up

[forest pike]

Hahaha

[cold moon]

i personally am not a fan of the things you stuff in a wall and hide

[forest pike]

Ya I'd just feel bad if he did his house with my recommendations and it lit up

[cold moon]

i like smart switches / dimmers, smart light bulbs, and all kinds of sensors

[cold moon]

if he has stupid money, tell him to do some research on https://inovelli.com/products/zigbee-matter-blue-series-smart-2-1-on-off-dimmer-switch

those are pretty much the best we've got for smart home light switches across any protocol right now

if he wants to pair those with smart bulbs for rgbw and or color temp control, then point him to philips hue bulbs and or fixtures

combined, assuming he has fuck you money, are the best you can do with amazing results

[forest pike]

He was looking into one of those luxury smart home automation companies that does everything in proprietary hardware. Their costs came up in our convo and he was turned off by how crazy it was

[cold moon]

ya

tell him he's smart to not buy into some overpriced bullshit that home assistant runs circles around

[forest pike]

Will do. Are there any mid range solutions for the ZigBee modules?

[cold moon]

Do you mean in wall relays?

I can’t suggest any myself sorry

Shelly Wi-Fi ones are the most popular not zigbee

[forest pike]

Yes in wall, I'll take a look at the Shelly. This is as much for myself as it is for him. Like I said I ordered hardware to fuck around with HA, but I would be retrofitting, not installing into new build like him

[cold moon]

Its basically the same

why did you land on an in wall relay over a smart switch?

with smart switches you get the benefit of all kinds of automations around various taps supported by the device

[forest pike]

My reasoning was there were concerns about tuya smart switches working with ZigBee so if I found an in wall module that worked, I could just use those with dumb light switches and it would be guaranteed to work. I could also get different (newer nicer looking) dumb switches without worrying about compatibility

Also doesn't a smart switch just have a wall relay basically attached? I'm asking about the ZigBee ones, haven't done any research on wifi ones, didn't even know they existed tbh

[devout parrot]

The quality whole switch assemblies have more features than just on/off

[forest pike]

The choice for ZigBee was it's mesh so as long as there is another router device nearby, I'm golden. I have dead spots for wifi sound my house currently

[forest pike]

Oh interesting I had no idea.

[forest pike]

Do you mean the ZigBee ones or the wifi ones or both?

[devout parrot]

Both. A lot of them have different tap/hold/multi press options you can build automations around.

[cold moon]

any smart switch can support lots of different taps and such

some more than others

even like press vs long press vs hold

for example, throughout the house i have every light switch do 1 tap up = 100 %brightness to every light in the room (not just the mains powered devices on the switch). then 2 tap up = 30% brightness to every light in the room

i think every house should have this -.-

[forest pike]

Oh I see. I found some that were not tactile, more like touch screens. Do tactile ones have the same features?

[cold moon]

you focus on weird things sir

lol

[forest pike]

HAHAHA

[cold moon]

okay so smart switches are usually decora style paddles

[forest pike]

No way, I'm with the boomers on this one. Touch screens suck

[cold moon]

but they dont actually clack up and down

they just attenuate like a keyboard key and pop back to the same spot

err wrong word idk they push in and bounce back

[forest pike]

Momentary

[cold moon]

nah i mean they dont have a dedicated on/off position

they just click when you push up/down

[forest pike]

I'd be okay with that as well, as long as I can slap something while holding two toddlers to get the lights on

[cold moon]

well you shouldnt have to manually be flipping any switch

gotta automate with sensors

these are just for the guests or if you want to override something or just out of habit

your motion sensor is gonna turn the light on before you can reach for the switch in the kitchen and bathroom

[forest pike]

Even in big areas like entry foyers?

This is getting more complicated but I'm intrigued

[cold moon]

can you expand on what you mean by this

are you familiar with the new mmwave sensors?

there are multi-zone options where one sensor can tell if there are multiple people in certain areas all at the same time

[forest pike]

My friend based on our conversation so far I'm not familiar with anything

The only thing I looked up for people sensing was a Bluetooth option. That one I guess did identification as well based on device. I was going to try that when the rest of the hardware got here on my spare raspberry Pi

[cold moon]

there are different levels and words thrown around for "people sensing"

originally, we had person detection vs presence detection

then the lines all got blurred from there

basically you have to now distinguish if you mean motion, any person, a specific person, or presence of continued person

lol

[forest pike]

I'm assuming the difficulty to do the sensing goes up as you progress on that list?

[cold moon]

no it's not in any order

the simplest is person detection within home assistant

i.e. you install the home assistant app on your phone and your wifes phone - then you leave home, and now zone.home turns from 2 to 1. then your wife leaves home. now zone.home turns to 0. now you can automate and lock the doors and arm the alarms and send an actionable notification asking you if you want to turn off certain lights or set some other script or scene.

[forest pike]

Oh interesting

[cold moon]

or you specify with an automation and when person.you arrives home, unlock front door, start ramping up lights in a couple rooms, start making a keurig coffee, turn the hottub on

I mean one guy I know has frigate setup to know which cat is there to feed and medicate automatically

Camera sees specific cat 🐈 from trained model and opens a popup to feed it

And drops food from an automated dispenser to restock it

[forest pike]

Wow that's next level

[cold moon]

i havent gone that far... yet

[forest pike]

How far have you gone with the person detection list?

[cold moon]

well i dont do face detection to know specifically which person it is, but i have frigate setup on all the cameras outside the house and in the garage so i can automate on when "any person" is in a certain area or more specifically within a certain confined space, like the yard or the deck or the driveway not just motion detected

then of course i have detection of which person home assistant knows about (but not per-room) with home assistant app + network via unifi integration. Plus just general motion sensing

if you wanted per-room you either use cameras in the house (yucc) or bluetooth low energy tracking like espresence or room assistant

[forest pike]

At yes I think the one I saw was room assistant

Thanks for all your help today, gave me lots to look into. I think I'll make a rough drawing of what I want with the hardware I was considering and what I wanted to achieve. Then I'll post it here if people have suggestions

[drifting jetty]

Speaking of presence sensors, I bought an Athom presnce sensor because I mostly heard good things about it.

While it does clear detection much faster on average than the Sonoff I already had, but the detection was far worse. Sometimes it was quick, other times it took a minute to work.

It does have PIR, but I don't want to use that for detection. I want to use the mmWave because I don't want the PIR spamming the log.

So I'm back to using the Sonoff as my presence sensor. It may take 5+ minutes to clear sometimes, but I can live with that since it's normally quick to detect.

[tacit pilot]

I have a boiler for my radiators and I'm trying to figure out if it's safe to plug into a smart plug (for energy monitoring). What sort of specs do I need to look for? I have an S31 plug and the boiler is a Lochinvar WHN055 (manual: https://www.lochinvar.com/lit/005585WH-I-O-Rev Y_100161819_2000019113 (DWV Fittings).pdf )

[golden thorn]

Apparently it uses 0.5 amps: https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Lochinvar - WHN055 - Product Overview.pdf
Doesn't look like it's connected with a socket though so you likely can't use the S31 as is.
Perhaps you have a multimeter with a clamp? Could use that to measure what it uses.

[tacit pilot]

What do you mean it doesn't look like it's connected with a socket?

I think it might actually use gas now that I think about it, so a smart plug probably just powers some basic electronics in it. Probably not that useful to have a smart plug?

[golden thorn]

It seems to be connected with wires directly, not with a cable and plug that goes into a socket.

[tacit pilot]

Huh, I'll double check but there's definitely something going into a socket

uhhh ok nvm I have no idea where that plug goes lol

[sudden narwhal]

Is there an easy solution for having many baseboard heaters with Smart thermostat? Or am I essentially going to need a bunch of expensive thermostats?

2 level house, split entry /w 5 bedrooms, baseboard heaters in all rooms. There are a few sets of 2 that share a thermostat. All are basic Honeywell ones with programmable schedule via local buttons on the device. 9 dumb thermostats in total.

[umbral violet]

Does anyone have any experience with Hue lamps that have multiple light sources integrated, like the Appear or Ensis?

[tough frost]

Hi, any recommendations on a bot to press capacitive buttons? Would like a relitivly nice looking solution, but just looking to start the remote start on my thinq washing machine

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOLvMui

[wild atlas]

Switch bot with a capacitive thing stuck to it with hot glue?

Like the tip of those capacitive touch pens

[smoky moth]

...

[frosty mirage]

I just moved into a new house in the US. I think pretty quickly I'm looking to purchase 4 new light switches for non-dimming lights. I believe it's for two 3-way switches (aka 2 different rooms, each with 2 switches for a single light), I don't think I really have a preference for zwave or zigbee which is why I'm asking here instead of in one of those channels. I will need to purchase some door sensors as well at some point, but I think there are plenty of options there on either network.

Anyone have any suggestions?

[drifting grove]

It took all day yesterday, but it works!

[cold moon]

Nice

[cold moon]

Now OTA flash it to wled

[drifting grove]

Why?

[cold moon]

Features?

[drifting grove]

Better than Tasmota?

[cold moon]

For rgbw cct capable bulb? Yea lol

[drifting grove]

Eh, it's for my sister, she gave me the other bulb though. Once I have time to mod that bulb, I'll take a look.

[cold moon]

Even more reason to flash it to wled

She can use the wled app to control it and set effects and stuff

Do a bit of research

[drifting grove]

@cold moon It's going to pretty much be used exclusively through Google Assistant

[cold moon]

Cool

Lots of things you could do with that

[drifting grove]

Alr, I'll check it out once I mod the other bulb, thank you!

[eternal apex]

ok, stupid question: did anyone seen a 1Gb PoE "ejector" that does 1:1 passthrough of voltage?
I see a lot of things like https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Compliant-Surveillance-5-5x2-1mm-PS5712TG/dp/B08HS4NT13/ but I don't need any inverter (nor I want it)

[still sapphire]

You can’t, realistically. Gbit uses all 4 pairs, and once you have the hardware to combine the `gbit signal with a voltage, you might as well use a real 802.11 Poe.

[cold terrace]

you can't go wrong with Aqara zigbee door sensors they're rock solid

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4-8Y7jUCn0&t=123

i currently have 3 of them mounted and a few boxed up i need to think about

my front door sensor is about 70% battery after about a year and the other two are >90%

[winged knoll]

I've got a mass of Aqara sensors, OG and E1. Love them

[hybrid lantern]

Up to this point I've only used wifi for hardware sensors. I'm considering getting these for plant monitoring - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801428513169.html. The Pink sensors are wifi, the green sensors are "Used with the FlowerCare app" - I'm assuming Bluetooth BLE
If I wanted to support Bluetooth BLE sensors, what would be an example of the BLE bridge I would need?

[wild atlas]

You can use an esp32 with esphome to communicate with ble devices

[hybrid lantern]

What's the range on that? Same room? Entire house?
Also, I'm assuming one bridge can communicate with many sensors. Is this correct? Is there a drawback for many sensors attached to one bridge?

[scenic slate]

I'm lookong to add a Wireless Access Point in my detached garage to be able get better signal on my switches and cameras out there. Anyone have any recommendations? My router is an older Nighthawk running OpenWRT if that matters

[hybrid lantern]

I would assume any direct attached AP using a cable would suit your needs fine. I havent seen a WiFi IOT device yet that doesnt use 2.4Ghz wifi, so the 5Ghz capabilities won't matter.

[cold terrace]

Do you just need a dumb AP? flash openwrt on this, loads of fun https://www.amazon.com/Dynalink-DL-WRX36-8-Stream-Wireless-3-6Gbps/dp/B096K9SVCT

but if you want something that doesn't answer your question see if your current router has a USB port

plug in a supported USB wifi adapter (usually a mediatek) and run the adaper to a corner reflector, then point it in the direction of your devices

https://web.archive.org/web/20230325204908/http://freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/index.html

openwrt lets you add additional interfaces through USB and your setup with it can be as stupid as you desire

[eternal apex]

while it does use 4 pairs, the PoE is simply applying the volate over wires (as ethernet is differential). The only difference between passive gigabit PoE and active is the negotiation PDE performs so PSE can switch on the voltage. What's puzzling is there are many of these convertrs to 5/12/24 but none of them just expose raw 48V 🤔

[hardy kite]

Hello everyone,
I installed Home Assistant in ProxMox, itself installed on a tiny PC (ThinkCenter M73). Everything works perfectly. I put a SONOFF dongle for zigbee and an AEOTEC Gen5 dongle for zwave.
Quick question: my AEOTEC dongle flashes (blue, orange, red) constantly. Is this normal? Did I miss something in its installation? Note that when I add a zwave device, during integration, all the devices already integrated turn back on. You don't have to do an integration in the middle of the night, otherwise I'll wake up the whole house!!

[winged knoll]

Yes, that's normal, and #zwave-archived can tell you all about it

You can also turn it off 😉

[hardy kite]

Thank you. How can i turn it off ?

[winged knoll]

The #zwave-archived channel can (still) help you there

[hardy kite]

Thank you, i go there !

[drifting ember]

https://www.amazon.com/WS-GPOE-12-48v120w-gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-Passive/dp/B00ENUHQEQ

[silent quartz]

Someone got good recommendations for LED Stripes (Wifi) to be integrated into Home Assistant? (Germany, 40€~ Budget for like 3m of Stripes) Should have basic LED features.

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[cold moon]

Stripes like a zebra 🦓

[frosty mirage]

That's what I was thinking about. In the old house I had those sensors, plus some Zooz switches. They had some connection issues but I think that's because I was using an old RPI to run the Zwave and Zigbee servers. I've got a Yellow now that will hopefully be more powerful

[scenic slate]

Would the device need to by physically connected via LAN cable?

Because I don't have a network cable ran from the house to the garage currently lol

[devout parrot]

You can use wireless backhaul but that's only going to be as reliable as the connection between your main WiFi signal and the garage.

[sonic chasm]

Hi! So I filed a bug a while back how on RPi400 I can't get the ethernet port (end0, formerly eth0) to work on HAOS and, based on the replies, this issue is also present on some RPi 4s. The port does work on Raspbian OS just fine.

Bug has been labeled but, as far as I can tell, no one from development has claimed it.

https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/issues/2338

Is there anything else I can do for troubleshooting or to help with diagnosing the bug?

[earnest oracle]

Hi all! I'm so confused, hopefully someone has a good answer for me: is the latest version of HAOS working well on Raspberry Pi5? I'm not beta-lover, I'm just a normal user that likes a stable system. I just can't really find if if 11.5 will work without any major issues. The only official mention I can find, is one from December saying it'll be in the beginning of 2024.

Can I install it, or should I wait a bit for an official stable version?

(and yes, I saw the release notes for 11.5 saying some things about the Raspberry Pi5, but no clue what they mean 🙂 )

[inner wharf]

What is the ideal door lock for home assistant? preferrably one with finger print? aqara u100? i'd prefer no extra hub as well. Any ideas?

[outer knot]

@inner wharf Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[inner wharf]

Am in Canada. No real budget. Have zigbee2mqtt setup but whatever works best. mainly just want a smart door lock with a fingerprint reader that works well with home assistant.

[primal wren]

Anyone know of any recommendations for motion sensors, temp sensors, door open sensors, presence sensors, water sensors etc that use AC Wall power? I HATE HATE HATE HATE Coin cell batteries. I have small kids in the house, and the more devices I have that use those stupid batteries... the more I increase the risk of one of those cells being lost,... unaccountable for... and ending up in a kid's throat. That and I hate having to change them so often.

As a compromise, I'd be OK with IoT that relies on AA Batteries or AAA.

[winged knoll]

Develco "mini" is a motion/light/temperature sensor that takes AA

The new Ikea door/window sensors (parasoll?) and leak sensors take AAA

[cold terrace]

how many walls/what thickness/how far is your current router from the garage?

if it's like <50 ft you can totally get a way with running a big reflector on an access point

[boreal sierra]

For motion sensor, i just bought a 2 pack of thirdreality motion sensors from Amazon that take 2 AAA batteries.

[cold moon]

hue motion sensors take two AAA as well

[boreal sierra]

also JacobFox, tell the class how you really feel about coin cell batteries... 🤣

[eternal apex]

hmm.... it actually makes me wonder.... if I can just use injector "in reverse". I never tried.

[eternal apex]

u100 is a very solid and stable lock. I don't use it with HA directly (but HK) but the stability and robustness of locks is actually the main issue in most smart ones.

[valid frigate]

is anyone also excited about the new aqara pro versions of the z1? the cover both with and without neutral, the biggest draw for me is the fact you dont have to say (if you purchased the 5 button) you can have all 5 be of use via power, or only one and use the others for smart buttons, love this.

https://homekitnews.com/2023/10/25/aqara-announce-pro-version-of-z1-pro-smart-switches/ they are zigbee based

[tardy girder]

Hi, I have IKEA Sonos speakers here. When I play radio to them over the HA build in radio player and click pause on the physical button on the device the radio station which is last player will be saved. So that means when I click play again it plays the last heared station.
I now have a good night scene which shut off all lights and the speakers of triggered. When I now click the play button on the device it plays a random radio station. Anyone know why this is happening? And do you probably have a solution for it?
I know it’s a very specific problem and I hope I was able to explain it. Anyway maybe someone can help me.

[pine acorn]

Is anyone aware of a ZWave or Zigbee in wall motion switch that will detect motion and light level? What I’m finding is it’s one or the other:

Meaning I only want the light to turn on if there’s motion AND light is low. What I’m finding it its one or the other. Yes I could add a motion sensor and a smart switch to trigger the same, but looking for an all in one thing like this:

https://enbrightenme.com/ge-z-wave-plus-smart-motion-switch

If such a thing exists

[tardy harbor]

anyone get an SR602 motion sensor working? it never seems to trigger for me, suspect somethings worng with my config

woop, nevermind, seems the first one was cactus, swapped it now it works

[deep coral]

So my tellstick no longer works with HA since December last year, i knew it was going to happen so i bought something called "nortek" dongle as it had both zigbee and z-wave, and when i got it i couldnt get the z-wave to find my devices, i then found out i needed to update for it to better connect to the new devices and i had a lot of trouble updating it, but finaly updated it and found that i had updated it to the US version of Z-wave so i gave up and bought the correct EU dongle for Z-wave, and then it turns out that z-wave isnt 433mhz as i thought it was... lol me... after maybe 50hours+ messing aroudn updating and testing i never checked.
Well.. Now i am looking for a device i can plug in to my virtual machine running home assistant that controls 433mhz devices pretty much every device i have is 433mhz and none of them work now.
anyone know which harware to get? im going to ask before i buy anything this time....

i am looking at the RFXCOM RF 433MHz Transceiver, but its pretty price for what it does.

[wild atlas]

https://github.com/merbanan/rtl_433 plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CD7558GT?&linkCode=sl1&tag=swlcom01-20&linkId=f82dc86d9d4a543143f4eefb85922add&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl should take care of 433mhz devices

And integrate with home assistant

Though do research before buying, I've been eyeing up getting one for a while but don't have any devices yet that could really make use of it

[deep coral]

that was one of the ones i looked at

[deep coral]

the 433mhz devices are quite a lot cheaper to buy here where i live a Z-wave socket will cost me 40 euro each, wifi as low as 20euro but they are not local, and zigbee 24 euro, while the 433 ones go for like 6euro a pop and they can supply the full 16A unlike 40 euro z-wave one. i dont want to put money to fix the problem even though if i just worked overtime instead of doing this stuff i would probobly have been better off xD.

[hidden badger]

Any one upgraded ikea underverk to make it smart? I'd like to be able to switch the lights separately and additional switch the fan smart and get an timer for the fan

https://www.ikea.com/de/de/p/underverk-dunstabzug-zum-einbauen-edelstahl-10393974/

[glacial oracle]

I may recommend not to do that. Inductive loads aren't that friendly for "easy to buy" gear and the oil particles will corrode everything not sealed tight

This has surprisingly much hazzard potential

[near knoll]

Have a look at openmqtt gateway https://docs.openmqttgateway.com/setitup/rf.html#protocols-modules-and-library

[dull portal]

Hello, I buy zigbee Woox siren R7051.
Now I want to add it to my alarmo and I can't. I can't also make working button card to dashboard because there's no binary.sensor_turn.off/on. Can somebody help me?
I have entities like:

[winged knoll]

Well, no, you can't turn sensors on or off

That should expose a switch or similar

#zigbee-archived can probably help there if you tell them whether you run Zigbee2MQTT or ZHA

(and if Z2M a link to the device page will help)

[dull portal]

OK, Thanks.

[quiet stratus]

Hello. Are there are Konnected 6-zone alarm panel experts available? I have a new board I flashed with Konnected ESP32Home. It completed normally, but I can't access it's log (wifi or direct connect). K's support suggested re-flashing it, but that initialization fails. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

[pastel swallow]

Recently I have bought a HA yellow and I'm looking for some accurate humidity/temperature sensors to use for my tea storage. Are there any good options that people know of that will work with it right out of the box?
Also, no idea if people have experience with this, but would this work through a fridge with a glass door?

(also if this is not the right channel to ask about these things, where should I move it, since I'm not sure from the channels)

[eternal apex]

There are several options for #zigbee-archived . Most use the same 2-3 chipsets, so pretty much the same prameters. I have a few aqara ones and they work pretty well.
You also have the cheap BT ones from xiaomi but that's dealing with bt 😉

[pastel swallow]

I saw a bit about BLE, seemed cool, but indeed it seemed like a bit of a pain to get that to work (or rather, I'd have to get another device to create the BT signal, wouldn't I?)

I'll check Aqara out though, thanks for the suggestion 🙂

[eternal apex]

BLE is great if you get into it with ESP32 proxies etc, since as I learned recently BT on Linux is in a bit of a sorry state.
If you want to deploy 20 temp sensors it may make sense from cost perspective, or if you have other devices to integrate via BT (that come with BT, like electric skateboard or sports equipment). However, if you want to build a platform of multiple things, imo zigbee or zwave is a better choice.

Oh, as per the fridge: it does block some signal but I have one in the freezer and one in the fridge and both work

[pastel swallow]

Hmmm I see yeah

Ah cool yeah 🙂

ideally I'd go with a zigbee solution then I guess. Since as it stands, I'd probably use only a few (2 for my tea storage and a more complex air quality sensor outside of it)

[eternal apex]

FYI be careful with air quality sensors: most are lying (e.g. estimate CO2 based on PM using a table..............). It's harder than expected to find a good one.

[pastel swallow]

Just gotta find some (for those in my storages) that:

• Run on batteries
• Update ofen (few times per min)
• Zigbee based
• Relatively accurate, ideally within a few % for especially humidity.

[pastel swallow]

hmmm yeah, I've noticed that. It was amusing to see ikea offer one.

[patent river]

It's really quite easy; you just have to pay a lot of money for them. Accurate but cheap, that's the unicorn.

[pastel swallow]

I don't mind it being a bit pricier. Seems like an okay thing considering this is going into a tea collection worth a fair bit of money.

I'd rather pay a bit more for it than to figure out it went moldy, basically, haha

[carmine mason]

Is there a reason people typically go for cheap android tablets instead of phones when creating dashboards?

[winged knoll]

Size

[carmine mason]

That's what I figured. Won't be an issue for my application

[frosty rose]

is it possible to use a ZigBee light switch (Moe's tuya 1/2/3 gang ones) in a way that holding it down dims the light ? would that be a HA thing or something that the ZigBee device would need to work with ? I have normal sonoff buttons where I can hold them down to do a different automation action so it seeeeems like it could be possible . if so would it be something a complicated blueprint would have to do

[chilly heart]

I think that'll depend on if the switch can detect you holding it down or not

[patent river]

https://www.domadoo.fr/en/devices/5882-heiman-air-quality-sensor-co2-temperature-humidity-zigbee-30-visual-and-audible-alarm.html
As an example. If you put "NDIR" into your search terms you should in theory get the good ones, but some crap still sneaks in.
I can also recommend these: https://www.milesight.com/iot/product/lorawan-sensor/am103-am103l (but are LoRa, so a whole other set of everything you'd need to buy)

[pastel swallow]

oh, I see. That's pretty cool 🙂

[patent river]

If you were looking to build your own (not my idea of fun, but a lot of people do), a 0-5000ppm ±3% accuracy NDIR sensor is $54:
https://www.co2meter.com/products/copy-of-cozir-lp-miniature-5-000ppm-co2-sensor

[fallen nexus]

Are there any smart outlets that track power consumption but do not let you toggle power from?
Was thinking it could be nice for my gaming PC, but I don't want the possibility of it randomly being shut off.

I guess I could buy a normal one, open it up, and wire the relay's control pin directly to power instead, so it is stuck on

[patent river]

Shelly have a 16A power monitoring only device: https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-pm-mini-gen-3
It has no relay, so is incapable of switching.

Not sure if that helps

[eternal apex]

@fallen nexus you should use something like Shelly PM instead of a switching device when dealing with higher and constant loads for the safety reasons. I monitor things like washing machine/dryer/HVAC with these

Is these some device (preferably zigbee) that has a button AND and LED that I can control? Preferably two LEDs with two buttons?
What I essentially want is a virtual switch where I can indicate if a remote device is off or on

[glacial oracle]

Did by any chance anyone spot a 12V G4 led lamp which exceeds 5W energy draw?

I can't but feel like they are significantly more dim than the halogen ones I removed from that fixture because they were melting the socket

[eternal apex]

I tried finding something more powerful and I failed - this form factor is doomed for LED. I finally replaced the fixture

[patent river]

I found a "400lm" one, but it's a big chungus: https://www.lumenalights.com/shop/product/4w-g4-led-capsule-daylight-white/
Internet says 240lm for a 20W halogen G4, but they come in up to 40 so even that would be a downgrade in light while being about 8× the size

[eternal apex]

I tested this one specifically - 2 out of 3 failed within 6 months and the brightness wasn't the greatest.

[patent river]

That doesn't surprise me

Doesn't look like there's much opportunity for cooling

I think your "just change the damn fixtures" plan is clearly the best one

[eternal apex]

It's just this form factor is essentially a "naked" version of the mushroom ones (GU10?)

[patent river]

MR16 (GU5.3)

GU10 is the 230V version (that has T-shaped "pins")

An LED MR16 can at least have heatsink fins cast into a metal casing, so they won't cook themselves.

[devout parrot]

TIL: Amcrest either doesn't know or, more likely, can't be bothered to care that their rebadged Queclink GPS devices can be easily reconfigured to work with any other service. I picked up a couple of the "AMGV500" OBD2 car trackers, which are just Queclink GV500MAP, and they just use the default factory password. Changed a few settings and they connected to my Traccar server no problem.

Also I was able to rig a data cable for these easy with a micro USB cable and a PL2303GC dongle instead of having to buy a proprietary cable.

[eternal apex]

Hmmm are there UL listed zigbee plugs with power metering? IKEA Tradfri one is (and is cheap) but it doesn't have power metering 🤔

[devout parrot]

I think the innr plugs are UL listed

[eternal apex]

Do you maybe know if they have power monitoring actually? I'm looking at https://a.co/d/4Pj6LXm and it has "energy monitoring" listed in the description, but the model (comparing with their website) seems like one without power monitoring 🤨

What makes it worse, going through their website the "Buy Now" button for both 234 and 244 direct to that listing as well....

[tough frost]

Bed presence sensors?

Found this thread
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/fsr-the-best-bed-occupancy-sensor/365795/12

I am completely capable of doing that project, just what are they using on the esp? Is there just some generic firmware people use or do you have to write bespoke code?

[winged knoll]

#diy-archived can help there

[tough frost]

Are there any good out of the box solutions? (Which would be this channel?)

[winged knoll]

Depends on your price point

[hollow condor]

Wondering about what lighting control solution is most "disaster proof", while still integrating nicely with HA. The typical "what happens when the admin dies" situation. I'd want the light to be able to be switched on and off indefinitely in the most simple way in case I don't come home from picking up groceries.
We're renovating, and want to equip some rooms with LED lighting (CCT probably, maybe one room RGB+CCT), so we could put any types of wires everywhere right now. I like Zigbee per se, but it seems somewhat maintenance intensive.
Priorities: disaster proofness > open API / no cloud > budget.
Would be thankful for any keyword, link to blog article, huge personal story, anything.

[winged knoll]

You want smart switches, ideally they and the LED controllers on the same technology so they can directly control the LEDs (though both have to support that feature)

Z-Wave certainly does that, and does it well. Zigbee somewhat does that, but you really have to do your research. Not sure about other platforms.

[cold moon]

You basically described esphome here. You copy paste template code for the most part not make it up yourself. You look up a sensor or whatever on esphome website then add that yaml telling the esp32 what pins you used etc then flash the fw you ‘created’

[hollow condor]

Will look into Z-Wave 👍 quick Googling seems to also come up with the suggestion it's more reliable than Zigbee.
Is there any wired solution that would be the obvious choice to work nicely with HA?

[winged knoll]

KNX maybe?

[cold moon]

I think that’s for new builds or crazy people

But we haven’t done the ink blot test on him yet

[hollow condor]

😅 new build as in new home automation system or new building?
We're rebuilding the whole flooring and some of the drywall as well, so wiring is really no problem at all. I forgot, it would be nice if it can be done DIY without having to have a professional for everything

[winged knoll]

KNX is pro level stuff, no ideal what you can do yourself

[cold moon]

then yes knx is a decent option but you'd have to reach out to them to figure out how involved it is to get it installed or if you can self-install

as far as the home assistant integration you can check it out, it's pretty thorough i believe

most people here come in with knx in a new build and ask how to integrate not install

[hollow condor]

I obviously don't know it. I'd like to think I could work it out given enough time. But then it seems it could also be overkill. On the other hand, being able to integrate shutters in a reliable way too would be a plus.

I guess some research will have to be done tonight 🙂 Thanks for pointing out these options so far!

We've got an electrician on hand who's fairly open to "customer wishes" and also does KNX according to his website. Maybe I should ask him for a ballpark price tag for what I want. Potential savings from DIY have to be in a reasonable relation with the effort required ...

[gloomy spoke]

There's a YouTube video dissecting that phenomenon

I believe it's related to the materials used in the relay

[gloomy spoke]

this is the one I was thinking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIB3kWqqAzE

[glacial oracle]

Personally I would replace this plug soon

[gloomy spoke]

I would, too

[glacial oracle]

Sadly Shelly plugs get a kinda loud whine after a while in use

But that doesn't be critical

[gloomy spoke]

probably just the relay being energized

I've had a couple of relays fail by rapidly and continuously switching on and off

[wild meteor]

Do you know if this this is a common issue?
Both of these plugs are almost brand new, it seems odd to have arcing in 2 out of 4 (that I know of)

one of these plugs is close to my PC (it's controlling my speakers) and whatever interference it's causing when it arcs is strong enough to reset my monitor connection (display goes black for a few seconds), not always, but like 30% of the time.

[broken flower]

Hi 👋! Typical price tags for a professional knx installation in a newly built house: as much as a car 🚗
What car, you may ask, Fiat or Porsche... it depends on what you want 😛
Yes, maybe you can install it yourself and save some... (I've done it). But consider that it takes time to figure out how it works.
Feel free to add me to a thread if you have any questions.

[hollow condor]

thank you very much for your input. Been doing some research these last two hours and I think I'll conclude KNX would be overkill all things considered. Shutters can be made disaster proof with something like Shelly Plus 2PM or whatever the zigbee/z-wave/whatever counterpart. So in the end it would be KNX for switching lights in 2 or 3 rooms. Don't think that makes sense

now I just need an equivalent of that for LED lighting 🙃

[glacial oracle]

It may depend on the attached load. So far I had one failure based on over current out of 12

All other ones have the coil whining noise but no arcing I would recognize

[cold moon]

Do you mean low voltage lighting like led strips?

[hollow condor]

oh, yes, that's what we're thinking of

[hollow condor]

great, I might have found the controller I want ... now I'll just have to learn how to make z2m support it 😵‍💫
~~https://miboxer.com/product/3-in-1-led-controller-2-4ghz-output-max-20a ~~
https://miboxer.com/product/3-in-1-led-controller-zigbee-3-0-2-4g-output-max-20a
(and make sure it's not gonna put our house on fire considering it's available at only 23€?)

[winged knoll]

What on earth makes you think that's Zigbee?

Buy these instead

[frosty rose]

tinkerer... what do you use for your light switches? you're in the uk too, right?

[winged knoll]

This or those

[frosty rose]

are you using them with zigbee bulbs?

[winged knoll]

No

[frosty rose]

ok. i'm just trying to find a solution to the issue of having smart bulbs and normal light switches and people turning the lights off on the switch. really struggling to find a way around it.

[winged knoll]

You need smart switches with a smart bulb or decoupled mode

[frosty rose]

sorry what do you mean?

[winged knoll]

Exactly what I wrote

Normal smart switches cut the power to the bulb

That's not what you want

[frosty rose]

indeed

[winged knoll]

So, you need smart bulb mode or decoupled mode smart switches

[frosty rose]

a smart switch would also cut the power

[winged knoll]

No

Not if it supports what I wrote above

[frosty rose]

oh ok, smart bulb mode .. i'll have a look for one that supports that then 🙂

or decoupled

is that the same thing just worded differently?

[winged knoll]

Yes

[frosty rose]

which also dont have a need for neutral wire. i feel its going to be a long shot lol

[winged knoll]

Plenty don't need neutral

Decoupled mode though is pretty much certain to need it

[frosty rose]

yeah i think so, just for clarity you mean a wall switch (smart one) not a smart relay sonoff/shelly type thing that goes behind the wall switch

[winged knoll]

Either

[frosty rose]

all the ones i've seen so far havent mentioned such a mode. so i'm guessing its more of a niche product rather than mass produced aliexpress

[winged knoll]

Or you need to go to the manufacturer's site and dig up the specs

[hollow condor]

TIL you can make links on discord like that ...
On topic, the user manual makes me think it's Zigbee. I don't think the one you linked got a button input (labeled "dimming" on the MiBoxer one)

manual - the thing I want:

Short press PUSH switch:
Turn ON/OFF light```

[devout parrot]

Sometimes it's referred to as "decoupled" or "detached relay"

[frosty rose]

not found one so far. I dont think it's possible to have decoupled with no neutral wire

[devout parrot]

Oh yeah no you won't find that in a no-neutral switch.

You could get switch covers but those can be kind of ugly and tacky looking.

[winged knoll]

2.4GHz RF != Zigbee

[frosty rose]

yeah .. wife friendly is important

[hollow condor]

Really don't want to sound like a know-it-all, sorry if I do. However the manual I linked mentions Zigbee in various places, including for example Support Zigbee 3.0 remote control (Zigbee 3.0 gateway is needed)

[frosty rose]

yes it will be a 2.4ghx RF to ZigBee gateway

they prob do 2.4ghz RF to BT or WiFi gateways too

[hollow condor]

ugh, I linked the wrong product page 🤦‍♂️

linked FUT037P+, there's also FUT037_Z_P+

the Z being Zigbee I guess

[winged knoll]

Zigbee 3.0 gateway is needed
That says the device doesn't support Zigbee

[hollow condor]

this is the one I actually intended to link. I'll leave it at that. Thank you all again for your input.

[winged knoll]

Yeah... so that should work fine

[hollow condor]

... as soon as someone makes it work with z2m, which I'll try to, I guess.

[winged knoll]

With 1.35.x it does most of the hard work if the device is specs compliant

[hollow condor]

a couple of hours ago I wanted to set up KNX myself, I better be able to figure this out 🙃

[winged knoll]

Or just buy the Gledopto one 😉

Those work without any problems and are well behaved

[hollow condor]

would if it was my house .. but as it isn't, the button has to happen

[eternal moss]

@cold moon remember back a few days ago when you asked about the Aqara Presence Sensor? You asked about needing to setup in the app. Ok, so once you setup different zones in the app (not to be confused with HA zones), automatically "sub sensors" that appear in HA under the Aqara Presence Sensor. For instance, I setup a zone in the Aqara app near my desk. I also configured an automation to turn on my desk light when I'm at my desk. The light stays on while I'm at my desk, even if I don't move much. When I leave my desk, there's an automation to turn it off. By the way, my desk is in the living room. So when I move from the desk to the couch (another Aqara zone), there's an automation that turns on a different set of lights. It all responds pretty quick too. There's a limited amount of Aqara zones that you can set in the room, but I forgot how many. It's pretty cool, but I am not a fan of it having to be tethered to power.

[cold moon]

yea the FP2

so once you made the zones in the aqara app then pair the device to home assistant via homekit, it adds extra sensors for "desk" "couch" etc?

[eternal moss]

well, I first paired it then made the zones.

let me take a screenshot of my app

the first time I tried to pair it, I had issues. I did mess with the zones in the app before pairing, but I can't say that's why I had issues. don't know why I had issues. As a last ditch effort, I reset the sensor and magically, it showed up in HA. I know, I know. When in doubt, reboot! Or perform a controlled power cycle.

So right now there' s only two Aqara zones. the big blue area, and the tan desk area. You can name the zones if you want, but not sure if that transfers to HA or not.

let me show you how those two zones show up in HA

I'm sure if I create another Aqara zone in the app say by the door on the left, another presense sensor will show up. I guess you can consider them to be virtual sensors or whatever

[chilly heart]

You misspelled one of your automations 😆

What do you think about the fp2 though? I'm seriously thinking about buying one once I have my office room finished (which will for sure take at least another month or 2). But I'm still unsure about mounting it and how to figure out the proper placement

[tight arrow]

Did you manage to connect this to both Aqara and HA?

[eternal moss]

darn it! I was hoping that no one would notice that! I only noticed it in my screenshot. LOL

I think it's cool, but just find it annoying that it has to be wired for power. I think I want to use it for night lights in the kitchen or something like that but at 82 bucks, it's expensive just for that purpose

[eternal moss]

Yes, once I finally got it connected to HA, I added it to the Aqara app. That was my 2nd attempt at getting it connected.

I have already tried rebooting it to make sure it reconnects to HA and it did

Oh, and another thing. When you set up the zones in the Aqara app, you can setup the edges such as where the walls are, or obstacles and stuff like that.

[eternal moss]

jeez, my typing is bad today

[chilly heart]

Yeah that's exact what I'm on the fence about, it's really cool but I feel like it might be too expensive for my use case.

[subtle creek]

anyone a rlt 433 pro? I have an oregon scientific sensor RTHN318A, 433mhz and I see people have decoded it and it seems like it's a supported protocol but i'm not 100% sure

i don't get any responses from it at all though

watching the waterfall on 433mhz i do see something pinging every minute or so, it may be this device, not 100% sure how often it sends updates

[white mason]

Does anyone have a suggestion for a freezer monitoring solution? I'm currently using an Aqara temp/humidty sensor which obviously has to go in the freezer itself but the battery is not painting a good picture..
I've tried googling for solutions but most of them were soldering something together, is there not a HA ready device for freezer temp monitoring?

I'm in the US and open to spending decent money for a solution that can save on replacing a battery monthly. I already have other Zigbee devices so i'd prefer to stay with something where I don't need to add another hub/antenna.

I do have two freezers side by side so if there is something that can monitor two devices that would be even better but i'm not above using two separate devices.

[patent river]

I've already bought LoRa everything, so I was looking at one of these: https://www.milesight.com/iot/product/lorawan-sensor/ts30x
That's the strategy no matter the device though; put the unit outside the fridge and figure out a way to get a temperature sensor on a thin enough wire to avoid fouling the seal

The temptation to just drill a hole through the side of the fridge and seal it back up with spray foam or silicone is certainly there

[white mason]

I like that they have a dual sensor version, what kind of integration do these require?

[patent river]

I have this LoRa gateway: https://www.milesight.com/iot/product/lorawan-gateway/ug65 (they have other models)
Talks MQTT natively, so I pointed that at HA's MQTT server, and made "devices" for the various sensors I have using MQTT discovery

I'm working on some scripts to talk to the gateway's JSON-REST API, ask it for a list of its configured devices, and poke them into HA automatically.

[umbral flare]

Happy Friday! I've got a stacked washer/dryer and would like to get notifications when cycles are completed. I think the lowest effort to do this is a smart plug with power monitoring for the washer, and something like the aqara vibration sensor for the dryer. My concern is if I'd get false positives from the washer running. I can't easily do a smart plug on the dryer because its on a US 220V 60a circuit. Anyone have any thoughts?

[swift tree]

Is anyone aware of a 15in touchscreen monitor available that could be powered with Poe?

[chilly heart]

I'm using a shelly plug for our washer and it works perfect. I did a run and afterwards checked for the lowest watts used. For my case that was 5w. So I set up my trigger to when the plug is under 5 watts for 15 seconds. For me it works perfect

[smoky moth]

Hi guys, What should I get if I want to control my lights and shutters using ABB/Busch-Jaeger KNX through HA?

[snow schooner]

Does anyone have ideas for rgb track lights/floodlights?

[finite mural]

Hello everyone, I hope someone can help me because this is the first time I'm going to have a local server for my automations. I've bought an iHost and I have several questions:

1. Do I only have one way to install Home Assistant on Docker, right?
2. What would be the best way to pair devices "All of them are Sonoff"? Do I pair them with the iHost itself? Should I download an integration for Home Assistant?
3. For a secure connection to my Home Assistant, how would I do it with Nabu Casa?
   And I have more questions, but solving some of these would already be great, thank you very much 🙏.

[glacial oracle]

that doesnt seem to be a great purchase

with the level of access you likely will have, a docker core installation might be the only possibility
if there is an integration for the ihost in ha then that would be the way to connect it

[broken flower]

Hi 👋! A Knx IP Interface, if you don't have one already. I'd recommend Enertex or Weinzierl. And you should have your project file or at least a documentation about your used GAs.

[tight arrow]

Is it ok if I PM you about this? 🙏🙏

[unique raptor]

Anyone have any particularly different experiences between Leviton's Decora non-dimmer switches between the Z-Wave or Zigbee versions?

I'm not trying to figure out which one to get; I'm just trying to see whether one of them proves less reliable than the other, etc.

[ruby meadow]

I have the SkyConnect usb thing, I have it plugged directly into the pi, not in a usb 3.0 slot, with the usb extension cable away from anything that could be interfering with it, yet it still doesnt show up in my pi

it doesnt show in all hardware at all under usb, and it doesnt show in integrations as something I can add.

[jagged crypt]

is HA running in docker? or directly on the PI?

[tough frost]

Saw a forum post using force sensitive resistors as a bed presence sensor. Want to light some floor lights at night for Kate night piss trips. Dog likes to hide under the bed so can't use a pir to detect getting out of bed. So looking to find an alternative solution.

Is there a better out of box solution?

If not does anyone know some cheap FSR for this setup? AliExpress I'm guessing?

[kind creek]

Shelly gas sensor. For an alert automation, are you using the started detecting gas option or detected over certain threshold?

[dire dust]

hello there, can anyone tell me the difference between the NEO NAS-WR10BH and Nous A1Z apart from the price? These are both Zigbee Smart Plugs. I want to integrate them into my HA using Sky Connect Stick

[vague mantle]

Are there any known attempts at hacking Alexa / Google Home hardware to use them directly with HASS ? (Loose the Cloud)
I recently read an article that Amazon is dropping support for all functions on one device (echo, and thought maybe that's a chance to make a manual on how to "hack" them and turn them into direct HASS devices... (echo connect?) has 0 value for previous owner, so could be sold cheap)
Would obviously mean opening them up and finding a way to flash them... but still sounds interesting

[glacial oracle]

There are options to fully replace the hardware on a nest mini

[vague mantle]

As in: just reuse the case? (Doesnt sound too exciting to me tbh)

[glacial oracle]

yes pretty much that

there doesnt seem to be a worthwhile way of reusing their hardware

[eternal moss]

Sure, I'll try to help.

[versed rain]

anyone have any setup/config tips for Schlage locks? With Ring I was able to automate things based on whether the lock was locked/unlocked from outside/inside

Scanning the Z-Wave logs, it looks like there is some codes that probably correspond to these states. Just wondering if that is organized by someone, somewhere, already

Pretty new to HA. But I see lots of 'human readable' stuff in the user interface, so would think there'd be something to help the user grok this info, or maybe there is a community automations type of thing somewhere that helps users set up similar devices

e.g. seeing a state change from alarmLevel 19-->21 may correspond to Unlocked from Exterior Keypad

[cobalt root]

Does anyone have any suggestions for tablets to use as an Amazon Echo replacement? I'm wanting something that can be charged wirelessly, seven inch screen, can run HA Companion (my really old Fire HD 7 can't), and can be used as a media player device. All this in the cheapest possible price point. This will do nothing but display HA frontend with little to no physical interaction

[dry fable]

I’ve got a kinda random question. I want to start Smart-ifying my apartment, and I want to start with Bulbs. But I don’t really have the gear yet to run Home Assistant itself, but I run Apple devices. What’s a good cheap-ish RGB capable Lightbulb that runs on HomeKit and later can be integrated into Home Assistant? I’m in the USA.

[eternal apex]

So, I was looking for gigabit "PoE ejector" that passes raw 48-57V that it receives on the cable. I couldn't find it anywhere as all of them come with either 5V or 12V output (i.e. have internal inverter). Since gigabit ones don't use "spare" pairs but apply voltage over the data lines I couldn't figure it out. It turns out I was an idiot...

...you can just another PoE injector and change the female plug to male 🤣

cc @still sapphire

[eternal apex]

Cheap, rgb, and homekit doesn't really mix; especially if you want them to be reliable. Ikea tradfri bulbs [zigbee!] with their hub is probably the best solution. You also probably don't want bulbs with wifi as you can easily run into issues.

[dry fable]

I do have a Raspberry Pi I could run Home Assistant on, but for Zigbee don’t I need a USB dongle?

[eternal apex]

Yes, it will be cheaper than ikea hub 🙂 (it's around $25-30)
While RPi isn't the best platform for HA, it will do for the beginning

[dry fable]

Should I get a ConBee 2 or a RaspBee2 if I use a Pi 3B+ for my HA start?

[eternal apex]

ConBee II is a pretty old stick at this point. I would recommend SONOFF ZBDongle-P. Make sure it's the P version based on CC2652P

You can see other recommendations on https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended

[dry fable]

Dang, those Ikea bulbs are pricey

21.99 a bulb?

[eternal apex]

RGB ones aren't cheap unfortunately. However they're good quality and reliable for long time. Overall think if you NEED full rgb as most of the time you probably don't 😉

In the long run, and if you can, using switches with good quality bulbs where color change isn't required is way more economical

[dry fable]

Found https://us.sengled.com/products/zigbee-color-a19-e26-hub-required?variant=40850741755974 which seems to be a much better option.

37.50 for a 4 pack.

[still sapphire]

Well, that’s not obvious to me — I wouldn’t call it being an idiot. But I suppose if it’s truly some sort of transformer based injector that passes the 100MHz class Ethernet signals over the transformer and just adds a very large DC offset onto it, that would work that way. Not sure I’d ever think to try it though.

[fierce badge]

Any idea on how/if
this product can be integrated with home assistant ?
https://www.leviton.com/en/products/rc-1000whzb

[fierce badge]

Leviton RC-1000WHZB / Wireless Omnistat2 Conventional & Heat Pump Thermostat

[calm isle]

hey; i’ve searched a number of locations but can’t find clarity

i have some Blick cameras, in Home Assistant i can see the images, but cannot enable/disable recording consistently, getting errors

any suggestions?

[dry fable]

So... Why isn't https://www.home-assistant.io/skyconnect in this list? Wouldn't that be the best thing to use since it's Thread AND Zigbee?

[gloomy spoke]

It's experimental for Z2M

[dry fable]

Isn't Zigbee basically kinda dead/dying now that Thread exists though?

Wouldn't it be best to just hop on the Thread + Matter train?

Since I'm literally starting from nothing

[gloomy spoke]

Not even close

Existing does not mean 'works' or 'is widely available' or 'is better'

[dry fable]

Ok... so, what would you recommend? Currently I live in an Apartment, and my plan is to within the next 4 to 5 years move into a Home. Said home will be gradually smart-ified with as many things as I can connect to Home Assistant, but for now my plans are to have 4 Smart Bulbs. 1 in my Office, 1 in my Living Room, and 2 in my Bedroom (one for my side of the bed, one for the wife's side). I'd prefer to keep the costs of the Bulbs down, and preferably same brand.

I've found a few options for Bulbs and I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ I could use for Home Assistant.

Bulb Options I Like:

https://us.sengled.com/products/zigbee-color-a19-e26-hub-required?variant=40853865431110 Sengled Zigbee Color 4 Pack

https://nanoleaf.me/en-US/products/essentials/bulbs/a19-or-e26-matter-bulb-3pk/ Nanoleaf Matter Smart Bulbs 3 Pack (Kinda angry it's a 3 Pack, but I can deal with that.)

https://www.amazon.com/OREiN-Matter-Reliable-Changing-SmartThings/dp/B0BVQX6875/ref=sr_1_31 OREiN Matter (Cheap AF even without the Lightning Deal)

[tawny viper]

Don't buy sengled

[dry fable]

What's so bad about them?

[tawny viper]

Because someone on discord you don't know told you

Biggest reason is they don't repeat well, at all, and don't place nice with other zigbee

[dry fable]

Ok... that's... an odd reason.

So, you think I should go Nanoleaf?

I think the OREiN bulbs are Wi-Fi, from what I can read so... maybe not a great option after all.

[tawny viper]

Hue are the best, but more, matter is annoying. You can get some tasmota a21 bulbs cheap

Sounds dumb, hue is worth it though. I know innr makes good stuff.

[dry fable]

I guess 200 bucks it is... Kinda annoying, but it's a good deal for what I want.