#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 49 of 1
what do i do here
<#hardware-archived message>
What does this have to do with #hardware-archived?
Anyone know a good cheap local camera system? Ideally with indoor and outdoor camera that don’t look like shit
Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
Oh there’s a camera channel? I’m off there
Hi everyone I'm looking for a cheap (10€) but decent smart plug with power monitoring features. I'm located in Italy. Can you recommend me any please? Thanks.
Hi all, I've been an avid user of HA (RPi3) + Zwave for my home stuff, even though I am using just the basic stuff. My BIL has asked me for a way to "smartify" his garage door, and what I'd like to to is :
- Home assistant Green
- skyconnect
- a dry contact module. (Zigbee since matter/thread isn't available yet on the skyconnect)
Am I missing something or does anyone have any suggestions to improve this as a starter ?
Anyone using a tensor/neural USB stick in HA for object detection and/or face recognition? (e.g. Coral or Intel Neural Compute Stick 2?)
oh
Didnt mean to spam shop link
Hmm maybe i should try with CPU 1st maybe it has enough oomph (I am on nuc)
any recommendations for motion sensors? zigbee or zwave? My current aqara zigbee motion sensor keeps dropping/disconnecting off of home assistant
Which mini pc to choose for HA?
Lenovo Tiny M700/M900/M710 Intel Core I5-6500T 6 Generation , RAM 8GB DDR4,
Vs
Lenovo Tiny M73/M93 Intel Core I5-4570T 4 Generation , RAM 16GB DDR3,
Vs
ASUS Chromebox 3
Intel® Celeron 3865U Processor, RAM 8GB,
can the aqara door sensor stay outside?
anybody with a ratgdo? trying to wire it. My current opener is https://ibb.co/2vhfDyM and the ratgdo I got is the same as in this diagram https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/4663918/288449523-9ddf3da2-9eac-4be0-beed-11867dc8d446.png - I want to know if I should just insert the 3 wires in the opener (along with the current wires) or if I should remove the wires from the opener and insert them in the blue terminal in ratgdo and then insert the 3 ratgdo into opener. I hope I made sense.
You don't say what those cost, but I just got a beelink PC for under $200
started with docker on my synology DS920+, to a VM in the same box. Then finally to the beelink last week. Backup/restore each time resulted in HA working same as it did before.
I'd pick the first.
I have nowhere to complain but goddamn why is it so hard to find an electrician to install a Shelly (2PM/Plus I4) device 😐 I called 3 today, none of em wanted to do anything with it. Didnt know what it was or how to install it #bruh
Is there anyone who has a turnkey solution (as in, tutorials and as much as necessary written scripts) to turn a certain (series of) ereaders into a home assistant wall panel? Either pure-display or maybe even one with button support?
I’m not sure where I’d even start. I suppose something running a good enough web browser and with some minimal on-device scripting to get it kiosk-ing could just become a display in the same way an Android tablet with kiosk mode does, but maybe there are even lower power and/or cost and or more clever things lurking.
kindle?
(Except I’d wild guess that actual Kindles would be harder than the other less locked down kinds)
Assume (for the sake of the argument) that I’d be willing to just buy one if it’s not wildly out of proportion. Ideally, I suppose, a model that is available cheaply second hand and still has a good enough sceeen, but I’m not going to lock myself down to “I have an old Kindle 4 and it has to work with that one”.
Looking at google, the existing projects seem overwhelmingly in favor of kindle, and primarily old ones that can be jailbroken. Which is a bit of a shame because the supply of those in the Netherlands (where Kindle has always been an also ran, notwithstanding my stack of personal ones) is thin.
There are multiple ways:
1 some old tablet/phone
2 portable display and mini pc
3 shelly wall panel or sonoff ns panel pro?
There is no need to rush for kindle, any tablet that can run modern enough browser will do fine
Hi, someone have a sensor of temperature zigbee for outside ?
Was about to comment the same as in #general-archived. Your outside sensor should be protected from the wind, rain, and sun anyway, so most indoor ones would be fine.
Probably best to buy one that explicitly says 0-100% humidity range, not all do.
Mine is screwed to the underside of my deck, hard up against the house.
So the deck joists protect it from the wind, and the deck and the roof stop it being exposed to either sun or rain
What are good outdoor cameras that has night vision, rtsp support/IP cameras with Microphone and PoE powered? 100cad limit
Ok thanks you. But why the sensor need to be protected from the wind ? Ok for the rain and anyway. it's for my outdoor terrace, he won't take the rain, but the wind..yes
Those all seem to have lcd screens, which is not e-ink.
(And I already know how to do that if I want it.)
Just won't be a particularly accurate temperature measurement if you don't. Pretty much the same reason you don't put it in direct sunlight.
sensor placement is probably the most difficult part to figure out. a place below an accessible window sill may be close to optimal but those are rarely nice to access. you probably have to try and see which ones give you reasonable accurate measurements
I think a good general rule would be if the temperature ever changes rapidly without there being some kind of severe weather event, it's in the wrong place
Ok thank you for your specific feedback, I will start thinking about possible locations for the sensor. Do you have a link to a zigbee temperature sensor to recommend?
Like looking at 3 weeks of mine, my peak change was 2.1°C in 10 minutes, which was during a sudden freak hailstorm
to little change may however also indicate poor placement, either because the sensor is isolated from the environment or because there is some leakage from a different environment
ie here the sensor is placed between the window and outside shutters which will significantly stabilize the temperature in the space between
these are 71 and 65usd for each
specs?
I'd go with the Thinkcentre tiny with the 6th gen processor. 8 GB RAM is plenty but if you need more down the line you can just upgrade.
Ouch you need eink, sorry I am blind.
You might look at kobo readers, they are very modding friendly compar3d to kindle
There are also eink screens with hdmi on amazon/ebay/aliexpress but price is meh
Also there is waveshare one https://www.waveshare.com/product/displays/e-paper/eink-disp.htm but again price is painful
9.7inch/10.3inch/13.3inch E-paper Monitor, Mini HDMI Interface, external e-paper screen for MAC/Windows PC, Anti-glare, No Blue Light
You should take into consideration that this is nearly a decade old hardware which will be less efficient/consume more energy depending on the task
That may or may not be an issue depending on your electricity costs
Compared to N100 PCs, the 6500Ts can idle around the same wattage. They'll pull many more watts when running under load, but I don't think HA on its own is gonna put it under sustained load for long periods of time
Yeah, I was looking at the waveshare stuff earlier, but… I don’t trust myself to finish a project when I start with a raw screen, honestly. And then when you add in that the price (for that with a pi zero or an ESP32) is basically the same as a whole ass ereader (where the finishing steps that would be a pain for me amount to “double sided tape to the wall”), as well as that it would be display only without any option to press buttons… I dismissed that whole category.
My ideal would just be a device that has a 6-7” e ink touch display, e reader form factor, and just phone/tablet innards running plain android so I can just run fully kiosk with a whole ass Lovelace dashboard. You would think that wouldn’t be too much of a problem. But going by the contortions everyone else I find doing something similar puts themselves through… I guess not.
Sounds like you have a Kickstarter project...
The meebook M7 looks interesting.
I don't think that would solve the cost issues involved with eink displays
(Also, if I don’t trust myself to finish my project one-off for myself, how would I possibly be trustworthy enough to run a kickstarter? Then again… I suppose getting a few million bucks out of randos on the internet and then genuinely trying to ship would be a nice way to spend a few years.)
Isn't the whole thing about Kickstarter to pull out money and ship nothing
That’s how a few of the things I’ve kickstarted have gone.
You know what, fuck it, its end of the year bonus time. I’ll just get that meebook M7.
Some of the kobo readers can run mainline linux
Seeing some movement 😛
Interesting.
Anyone using any of the wifi smoke detector? I don't have anything zigbee yet and I'm wondering if the kidde wifi units will work on the ha network
There's a custom integration for it that may or may not work reliably, but if you want something that will work out of the box you might look into the First Alert zwave units.
Anyone know of an air purifier that has the traditional physical knob controls and not the digital buttons so it can be operated with a smart outlet?
But small
My old units just have a three position switch with a few capacitive droppers to the motor.
The American version is made by Austin Air. But they’re not particularly small.
(Well, four position — off, full on, and two different in between options)
Why isn't the Aqara A100 available in the USA? The U100 is, but it's a completely different lock
anyone got a recommendation for a single hardware device to monitor a bunch of reed sensors (if i can wire the whole house (best guess 36 ottomh) to 1 device, perfect... otherwise by floor (12) , or by room (1-4))
i guess, following that, anyone got a recommendation for a stable, reliable motion sensor?
for the reed thing, do you really plan on pulling wires for every window throughout your flat/house? If you dont mind a diy solution you could probably wire them all up to two esp32 or something similar
the more common way these days would probably be getting battery powered sensing units which communicate over zigbee
do i plan on it? no... everything's already pulled. there is absolutely, positively no way i would ever trust security to wireless.
i ran most of it years ago.
so what you are looking for is more of a security panel
doesnt need to be a panel per se, but yeah, if there is one out there that can be recommended...
so, everything now runs off of individual raspberry pi zero Ws for each room. (each entity is also already pulled to an old panel, its all cat3TP from the 90s, but, 2 wires is 2 wires when all they need to do is report a broken condition.)
ok, youpointed me in a direction i hadnt looked at... the panel. which points me at ZZZs Konnected
ok, maybe not at that price 🙂 ... ithink maybe a DIY version of his DIY version might be called for....
36+ individual devices do be quite in the range of where inexpensive ends
except that i dont need MOST of it... just the core to read all the sensors. that konnected looks pretty much like an ESP8265 with a nice breadboard under it that pinsout to the terminal blocks. i think theyre even nice enough to label them as GPIOS
we have designed KC868-A32 ESP32 home automation relay module. it’s new version based on KC868-A16 ESP32 relay module, add RS485 port. Support ESPHome for home assistant and Tasmota firmware for home automation DIY. 32 channel DO, 32 channel DI.
order link:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004042030033.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.hotSpots_6...
We have designed KC868-AIO (ESP32 ALL IN ONE) board for home automation DIYer. it can easy integrate to home assistant by ESPHome. the hardware have 32CH mosfet output + 58CH digital input + 16CH analog output + 19CH analog input, support RS485 + Ethernet + WiFi + Bluetooth + 4G SIM7600 module + DS3231 RTC module.
arduino source code and ESPHom...
it's just a guy who really likes building boards
OK, THAT i can drop the $130 on.
It upsets me that the relays/connector go (anti-clockwise) 444432344.
Could have been 4 sets of 4 on the top, 1 on the left, 3 on the bottom if the board was only a few millimetres taller.
I'm sure there's a good reason for that, but the asymmetry is irksome.
i cant even hear you over the technorection i have right now... its making my ears ring
Also I want to play music on it by triggering many relays at once
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLKF9hpZLPc like this?
I upgraded a scrapyard controller panel from the 90ies with an esp32s3 audio board to make a synth/sequencer/mod-player and had a lot of fun.
Try coupon code "boardluni" at https://aisler.net (sponsor)
Sprite_tm panel driver: https://github.com/Spritetm/mn812_module
0:00 Intro
0:17 Scrapyard find
1:01 Reverse engineering
1:56 Board design
3:28...
Well also have you seen Mark Rober's "talking" piano? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBEL3YVzMwk
Visit https://brilliant.org/markrober to sign up for free. The first 2000 people will get 20% off their annual premium membership.
Oh, and it also speaks English.
Shout out to Sheet Music Boss. Go check out and sub to their channel!- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzTR9iSH-TFC4-ocDS_ll4A
Also go check out Grant from 3Blue1Brown. He the bes...
so, i have gotten permission from the wife to create a script so that if i yell "Hey Google, Enact Protocol 42" it turns off all the lights, turns on like everything in the house sets it to full volume and then starts playing "Let the bodies hit the floor"
my wife loves it when, for whatevert god forsaken effing reason, it likes to randomly trigger at 3am
Anyone know of a device like this that uses an esp chip? I bought this one because it was supposed to have an esp8266, but apparently they moved to some Belkin chip now.
Here's the inside of it. I looked up that chip number, its a BL602.
Its a dimmable 12v device for fairy lights.
got a bunch of them
oh, wait... no. i dont have thgat, i have the same thing but it drives an LED strip
i might be off here, but, i think youre looking at the wrong side of the board.
I like how the QR code on it goes to a big fat 404
ill be honest, im a little disappointed nobody owns 404.com
Nah it is the correct side. The BL602 is a general purpose microcontroller that supports Bluetooth LE and WiFi.
The other side is blank except for a few traces.
Athom makes a bunch of different esp based controllers. Any of their devices for controlling analog LEDs will probably work.
what is the best brand of smart bulb to buy for home assistant, preferably without zigbee and preferably without costing a kidney like philips hue
Philips hue is zigbee, and honestly, unless you’re only doing a few bulbs (total, not just at a time), zigbee is the best solution (at least pre-Matter, and I think we’re still in the pre-Matter timeline so far).
I like my ikea bulbs, remotes & fixtures. Their smart home stuff is zigbee and it’s widely available, decent quality, and well-supported.
ok I hope I'm in the right spot. id like to know how to use an AIY voice hat on my home assistant to listen/talk as a voice assistant. i already got the addons setup now I'm just trying to get them to recognize the speaker and microphone on the hat. any input would be amazing. thanks.
Do you guys can make any recommendation for outdoor cameras (and nvrs) which play <reasonably nicely> with ha?
Currently i have three older foscam ones that cry for replacement (they need an ie plugin to work lol) with an image quality that is ok as long as there aint any interference for the wifi signal or spiders in front of it.
I would like to stay within ~600€ for replacing all cameras and having a network storage for the videos.
i thought about going with some reolink wifi ones (RLC-811WA if available) and their recorder for it
I've got a Reolink system and it works pretty well.
My cameras are all POE though so I can't speak to the performance of their WiFi models
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
@winged knoll just modified my message
Hi All,
Been running HA off a 2014 Mac Mini in VirtualBox but wondering if my power consumption can be reduced by switching to a mini-PC. The mac mini draws 6W-85W depending on load, but i'm not sure it runs on averag. I also run Plex as well as time machine backups through the Mac Mini, so ideally the new machine could run HA, plex, and do automated backups. I'm in the USA. Budget would be ~$100, and I use zigbee and wifi devices. Would a Dell Wyse 3040 make sense?
anything notable in regards to cloud requirements or issues with ha in particular?
I have a Sonoff ZBDongle-E Plus flashed with MultiPAN RCP and Silicon Labs Multiprotocol add-on installed.
Has anyone configured ZG-205Z/B via ZHA? It paired immediately but the only sensors were Illuminance and Motion, no Presence or Occupancy or the like. And even as a motion detector it performed miserably. Apparently sensitivity can be adjusted via the Smart Life app if you have a Tuya hub, which I do not.
#zigbee-archived can help with ZHA
Hello? is anyone able to help me? I've scoured the internet and haven't found anything for this
#voice-assistants-archived can better help there
thanks
It may well not be possible
hi, does anyone here have long term (1 year or more) experience with chinese TRVs? Specifically these https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TV02-Zigbee.html
Integrate your TuYa TV02-Zigbee via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Cloud service is completely optional, integration with HA has been fine for the most part. I don't do a whole lot with it, just snapshots from the front porch in a couple automations, but it works.
I dont want to set up everything just to redo everything because the devices are dead after a year
that seems rather nice to hear, i suppose this will work for simply showing a feed on the ui
thanks for the insights
I have about 4 months experience with them
then my girlfriend broke up with me and I lost access to it
uff, did you buy any others? can you compare?
We only had 1 radiator valve in the whole appartment
Like all I can tell is
it worked
it worked okay
it made a bit of bzzz noise when it opened and closed
and I wasn't dissapointed
I've had access to bosch thermostat II aswell, and compared to them the chinese ones were subjectively a little bit less noisy or at least equally "loud".
cant decide whether I should go with bosch and have peace of mind in case something happens (warranty, firmware updates, more features for future) or cheaper chinese ones. I would pay around 200€ for a bosch set with 5 thermostats and a controller, or around 80-90€ for 5 chinese ones
you cna always try it out
Yoo, anyone have any recommendations for a humidifier? Never had one, so don't know much about it...but I want to automate with my aqara sensors.
I've read up on it a little bit and saw that ultrasonic are the best ones. Also to prevent the humidifiers to get bacteria ect, it's suggested to get one with uvc light? Either way, I'll still clean everything once per month.
But anyone know of such a humidifier?
If also possible, I would like automatic humidity level feature and cool/hot mist included
Budget - Unlimited
Area - My Living Room
Country - The Netherlands
Protocols - Doesn't matter as long as I can connect it to HA
If you have an answer PM me or mention me here or I won't get notified
dont know much about them either, but you should mind about ozone aswell
The air. It holds water! And how much it holds matters! A lot, in fact. Sometimes we need to adjust it in the upwards persuasion. Learn why and how in this little ol’ video!
Are you looking for the follow-up where we take apart the Vicks thing?
https://youtu.be/TC9-t47tKts
And how ‘bout the video on the teeny tiny swamp cooler?
https://youtu.be/...
Come, watch a 30 minute video about humidifiers
I just installed mine on a Security+ 1.0 door, and it works great. It looks like you received version 2.53 of the ratgdo, but it appears the wiring is very similar: remove the far left red from GDO and insert into top "wall mounted button" slot on ratgdo. Remove 2nd from left GDO and insert into second from top ratgdo. Remove 3rd from left and insert into 3rd from top. 4th from left into 4th from top. Then insert the red, white, black wires from ratgdo into spots 1, 2, and 4 on the GDO. I hope that makes sense. If not, this is one of the many videos I watched before installing. Seeing it might make it easier: https://youtu.be/N2tbcq2loC0?t=588 **EDIT: ** the video I linked doubled up connectors in the GDO instead of using the ratgdo pass-through, and it worked fine for him. I used the pass-through, and it worked fine for me. Dealer's choice, apparently.
Is this a reliable plug? https://devices.esphome.io/devices/Shelly-Plug-US
I'm in the USA and am trying to replace an atomi smart AC controller
AC only needs to be on or off, and I'm getting an air quality monitor that does temp and humidity before summer hits.
Anyone know if you can use the Yellow Hardware and install ubuntu raspian on it
Well, there's no "Ubuntu Raspian", but ... yes
ops forgot the comma .....ether or will work
i have a usb key flashed , but not getting a boot prompt in serial
thank you
I got the Sonoff presence sensor. Nothing special, but it gets the job done at least.
thanks, i got it working last night https://ibb.co/YLR9Sgf
any recommendations for ibeacon devices? should I just choose from the ones listed on https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/ibeacon ?
Hey! I'm looking for front door lock recommendations that work well with HA, currently have a standard manual lock and handle. I don't have any particular brand allegiance, just need one that is reliable and dependable.
Country: Australia
Budget: Preferably sub $500 but will go higher if required
Protocols: Zigbee or WiFi
Features: Battery life(6 months minimum), keypad, NFC(not a deal breaker), RIFD(not a deal breaker), finger print reader(not a deal breaker), manual option to open i.e.; standard key & no dependency on cloud services
ANyone have recommendations for smart outlets? I got some commercial electric smart outlets from Home Depot without looking, only to find they don't integrate. I'd primarily want one that reported on energy consumption but also let you turn shut each outlet off/on.
https://github.com/shawngmc/Hubspace-Homeassistant
Assuming you're talking about this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Smart-15-Amp-120-Volt-Tamper-Resistant-White-Duplex-Outlet-Powered-by-Hubspace-1-pack-HPKA315CWB/316692069
Outlets (HPKA315CWB) work with on/off on both outputs
Looks like it's cloud which is a bit naff, but at least you might be able to use them until you buy something else
Is there any wifi speaker that doesn't rely on cloud for setup? I am looking for something like tasmota on a speaker
Are there any suggestions for a water meter that works well with home assistant and is not for the plumber to insert into the pipe (in Europe/Austria)? It really does not matter if Zigbee, M-Bus, WiFi or something else. But I would prefer getting actual numbers digitally, not counting magnetic pulses.
Is something like this OK?
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Waterstar-M-ETH-Wireless-Water-Meter/dp/B09M77TDLL/
Waterstar M-ETH Q3:2.5 DN15 cold water meter with wireless M-Bus radio interface. The Waterstar M-ETH is a residential water meter in fully dry running design with an excellent starting value and a very low pressure loss. It offers outstanding measurement durability and is equipped with a pre-con...
Don't know if Shelly stuff is a thing where you live, but if space permits, you could just mount a shelly 1pm behind a normal outlet. These can switch+meter 16A, if that is enough for you.
I was sceptical about Shelly stuff in the beginning, but over several years it has been the most reliable smart home stuf I have bought. Really the only problem is kids switching it on/off 5 times in short succession, triggering a factory reset 😉
fatal-error: Anything voulumio based could be what you want.
https://volumio.com/en/
Cool, i'll look into it, thx
You don't have to buy the pre made expensive stuff, you can build something with a raspberry pi
yes, a raspberry pi linux image as a single task audio player. there are various boards available for 30€-70€ or something to have a high quality audio output on the pi.
there is also https://moodeaudio.org/ which is a fork(?) of volumio and a few similar projects.
POE wall controller switches
were to find
and
is there POE relays or
Diy esp32 based one can be made but I don't think commercial poe relays exist
Shelly pro line is prolly the closest but it isn't poe powered, it has wired lan doe
In my setup (14 TRVs over 10 zones, IIRC, plus the Bosch/Nefit to Opentherm adapter and the Opentherm interface for the system) I spent a bit over a grand on a Honeywell Evohome setup, and I don’t regret it. It’s been rock solid and it doesn’t need the HA to be up to do most of the things. Integrates with Google home without the intervention of HA as well.
But yes, a significant expense (over and above Bosch) that might not be warranted for a small system.
What do you mean by “is not for the plumber to insert into the pipe”? That meter looks very much as if it should be installed into the pipe by a plumber.
If you have an existing water meter you may want to consider checking out homewizzard as they have a nice module which fits on a variety of meters
sorry: I meant "is not too hard for the plumber to insert". Yes, this one looks just like a standard meter, I don't want something the plumber has to spend hours reading documentation beforehand.
I think mine has no magnet. I looked for a magnet (with various sensors and the phone magnetometer). I asked the waterworks. The only option for my current meter is computer vision/OCR which is possible, but clumsy. I have to get some new pressure reducer/filter anyway, so installing an additional meter probably is not that expensive.
From Shelly 1PM website:
"If placed in confined space Shelly Plus 1PM may increase the ambient temperature above the allowed limits. Ensure ventilation of the Device."
What the heck? Isn't the whole point of this device that you put it confined behind an outlet?
Probably for legal reasons. I've got about 20 shelly devices in typical European style in-wall boxes like this:
https://www.eibabo.at/kaiser/geraetedose-1055-41-eb10429045
These are completely full with cables, the switch and the Shelly, but work just fine. Most reliable of my devices. Some Shelly devices also have a temperature check built-in, I think.
Also: What these devices are mostly used for is lights or fans, both probably having less than 100 or 200 W in practice, nowadays. Charging your Tesla via an in-wall Shelly probably makes it heat up more 😉
Still, if your house burns down and you properly documented the install by a certified electrician, your insurance won't pay because of this warning?
Seems a lil sus
Its more about them reducing their liability by warning for potential hazards
does there exist a "tripwire" sensor that's matter or zigbee? not a general area motion sensor, a laser across a doorway or hallway for example.
I think I made a mistake! I bought a couple of Tradfri lights and switches from Ikea without a hub. Is it possible to use them without a Tradfri hub or did I need that also?
You should be able to use them with any zigbee coordinator.
oh ok! I tried the tradfri integration and it asked for a host and security code but didn't know where that should go. I also tried to add it as a normal zigbee device and couldn't get it to register. I'll try again now though as it was a few days ago.
Yeah it should be just a normal zigbee device. You don't use Tradfri integration, just try adding it to your normal zigbee network (via ZHA or Z2M)
Try #zigbee-archived if you need help getting it paired successfully.
I have the SONOFF Universal Zigbee USB Dongle. I've tried the other bulb and it doesn't come up when adding a new device.
ok, will try the other group, thanks
There is the Aquara sensor that detects shaking and bumps, whatever it is called. Vibration sensor? One probably could do tripwire-like stuff with that.
not quite what I'm looking for but I did find a way to do it with a standard sensor and a smart relay switch
thanks for your help, I think the problem was I had a Tradfri controller and it was automatically connecting to that throwing out the zigbee connection. Regardless all is working nicely now and I don't need to return all my four new bulbs!
I'm considerung to by a Aeotec Multipurpose Sensor IM6001-MPP to be connected to my ZHA setup.
But I'm told that ZHA does not support all features of the device (while Zigbee2MQTT does).
I'm a software developer so I thought I might enhance the quirks myself. But I am unable to find "real" documentation on how to do this.
https://github.com/zigpy/zha-device-handlers#building-a-quirk tells me the basics, but that's not enough for me. In my case eg I wonder what the X/Y axis sensors should be mapped to, etc
Are there some docs or tutorials I have missed?
You would be better off asking in #zigbee-archived about #zigbee-archived stuff
is there any PLC POE ethernet that will work with home assistant
@lone saddle I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
I'm using the SkyConnect dongle with the multi-pan protocol to use Zigbee as well as Thread/Matter. I’m running HAOS via a Synology VM. The setup works just fine with ZHA and Matter. Since I've seen Z2M in action I wanna switch over. I’ve removed the setup in HA and set up the Silicon Labs Multiprotocol addon and the Z2M addon again, since I was not able to start Z2M. Now when I try to start Z2M I get the same error again:
https://pastebin.com/iQ6TsiA7
My Zigbee2MQTT Yaml looks like that:
https://pastebin.com/24m4Hrcb
Any help would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Aside from Amazon's Air Quality Monitor, are there any other similar devices that integrate well into HA?
Ikea Vindstyrka is another option. You can read this to estimate if support is good enough for you:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/ikea-vindstyrka-zigbee-air-quality-sensor/549747/65
That seems to be a build your own using esp32 + the particle sensor that comes with that + anything else you want.. a bit more work than I'd like.. looking for something more like the Amazon one but maybe without having to depend on Amazon and nice to haves: a display, some combustion gas related sensors
EDIT: oh wait, this one's different. Thought it was the cheaper/dumber one.
To be almost 24 hours behind - you can also check out https://www.picoreplayer.org/ - which is logitechmediaserver based (can run client&server on pi, or just client, with server elsewhere, etc). I run a numer of them and have zigbee remotes trigger playlist starts, play/next/volume/etc. (Also, free software, OS install picoreplayer, client squeezelite, and server lms)
Anyone using the SkyConnect dongle with Zigbee2MQTT?
hello. I'm running HA on a RPI 4 with 2 GB of RAM. I'm looking into the voice assistant atm and can't install the addons because I'm running the 32 bit version of HA instead of 64 bit, which means re-installing HA. I'm also running a cluster of four Raspberry Pi's with docker swarm that run services such as Nextcloud, bitwarden etc. Those use my TrueNAS CORE server as storage via NFS. Since a 2 GB RPI is quite weak, I was thinking of upgrading my hardware. I was thinking of combining the Swarm and HA into one device. I'm from Germany and using mainly WiFi and Zigbee devices. Any hardware recommendations?
Id go with an N100 beelink or something from minisforum
ahhh, I have a tradfri led, exactly the same as three others I've successfully paired but this won't doesn't seem to want to reset or pair. I've cycled the on and off switch so many times in varying levels of speed. Any ideas?
I ended up not using that load switch. I rearranged where the heater was being installed to a position where I had a clear run to the breaker box and hard wired it to it's own 30A breaker.
It ended up costing about $150 less and it's a more sane wiring configuration. It's not the exact spot where I wanted the heater, but I think it's a better install overall.
I still need to patch some drywall and remount a conduit box the previous homeowner mounted with drywall anchors but it's wired up and working.
I need some with my Conbee 2 in Proxmox on a NUC please..
HA keeps losing the connection to my zigbee devices. (Running zigbee2mqtt)
It worked for a while but suddenly i have to restart al the time to get my devices back on..
That's more of a #zigbee-archived? kinda question
My bad 🙂
Hey, hope this is the right channel for this. I'm pretty new to the automation scene and looking to get a raspberry pi 5 to install home assistant on but can't find any info if it is supported yet or if anyone has gotten it to work. Has anyone installed home assistant on it successfully? Is that even the best platform these days?
it is not the best platform
There is also no (production-ready) HAOS image for RPi5 yet.
Gotcha, thanks
RPi isn't the best platform, especially not with the prices on those devices nowadays.
If you don't mind, where do you have it installed on? A vm? Or something like a intel nuc?
yeah most of us are on team mini-pc or VM/docker setup in a server
Anyone has any experience with shelly support regarding their devices suddenly burning out? Just had that happen to me last night with a Dimmer2 that has been installed for roughly 10 months
$150 i5-6500 based thinkcenter tiny device with 16gigs ram + 256 msata running proxmox with HA as a VM.
beelink will be sligthly faster, probably slightly less idle-power consumption - https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/2627vs5157/Intel-i5-6500T-vs-Intel-N100
Thanks for the info. Do you guys use those mini-pc's for anything else or just to run HA?
Hello all, I'm trying to actively switch away from TP-Link now that they changed the hw revision for some of their new plugs making it incompatible with HA.... I just got some SwitchBot plugs, but it seems that the only thing available via the SwitchBot Cloud Integration is on/off and the power monitoring is locked behind the mobile app. Are there any power monitoring plugs that report power usage to HA in the U.S. besides TP-Link?
Note: I have no experience with custom loading firmware or anything like that on hardware and don't know the first thing about it.
@north shale I use the zooz zwave 800's and they work great
ah
Small, fast, secure PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS On/off Z-Wave control for floor lamps & small appliances (do NOT use with transformers, humidifiers, fan motors over 1/3 HP, and other motor loads) NEW 800 series Z-Wave chip: more range for reliable wireless communication Z-Wave Long Range ready: extend the wireless coverage
Do you have zwave set up
nope
It's easy.
and my HA server is likely not in range I assume of any of the devices I'd use
oh, like hue
just like zigbee, except better
I run a dns/dhcp server as a secondary VM
zwave also has significantly better range than zigbee
and higher reliability due to less spectrum crowding
there's a small price premium attached to it, but it also means all zwave items have to be 100% certified
I use a fair share of zwave, zigbee, and lutron products
Lutron is rock solid and the best, but zwave is a close second
price premium? how so? beats buying 6 hubs for different products lol
lutron only really does switches though
zwave products generally cost a little more due to licensing
ah
and more QA is required
meh that's fine
but in my experience they're much higher quality and last longer
if I don't have to clog up my wifi network with more smart plugs, all the better
I've already got like 20 lol
yeah zwave runs on 900mhz
i even use a small zwave remote as my garage door opener with automations
i can open my door from down the block it's hillarious
(that's when my "I'm home" automation is off, of course. My garage door usually opens automatically when it sees my car)
when HA finally gets 800 Long Range support some devices will have a range of up to a mile which is nutty
I haven't seen any high load zigbee devices either, like this https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/zooz/products/zooz-z-wave-plus-power-switch-for-heavy-duty-appliances-zen15
That's for appliances and such
I have it attached to my washer/dryer etc
hrm, ok, so looks like I need a stick for Z-Wave, and HAOS is running in a VM on my synology
Get the zooz 800 zwave stick
It's been rock solid for me
not super expensive either
I've run it in both a vm and now I have my HA on dedicated hardware
NEW 800 SERIES LONG RANGE! PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS All NEW 800 Series Z-Wave Long Range radio USB stick: incredible signal, super secure, and fast network! Long Range available for US only NOTE: Do NOT perform NVM backup from 500 series or 700 series Z-Wave sticks for this device, this feature is currently not supported a
I like this place a lot, reasonable prices and free shipping if you buy enough crap
otherwise I just do amazon lmao
did you say you had hue bulbs above?
Probably attached to a hue hub
Using non hue things on hue has always been a headache for me
I run HA in Docker on Debian, plus a few other things. Some of it's stuff that I use with HA and some of it is other services like Baikal and Plex. Besides the fact that more resources means HA runs better and the system is more future proof, the ability to run extra software as you want/need to is one of the benefits of running on a mini PC vs a Pi.
a lot of folks, myself included, run hue and aqara stuff with a zigbee coordinator, not with either of their proprietary hubs
https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p7-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/ i use one of these bad boys
this is a mix of hue bulbs and aqara sensors
I let the hue stuff live on my hue bridge. Runs better that way in my experience
I have a seperate zigbee hub for everything else
nah
Hue bulbs are some of the best router devices you can have in your Zigbee network. Definitely worth migrating.
for shizzle
if you dont turn them off
I'm trying to use a zooz ZST10 700 series USB stick on HA yellow, which worked on another machine but I can't see the serial port in /dev or in the all hardware page. Is there anything I need to do?
I had to move the jumper from usb to uart
Hey, did you end up finding any good AU plugs with energy monitoring? I am struggling to find one (I just want to know when my washing machine is finished a cycle!!). Re: plugs: I don't know about Zigbee but I have a bunch of tuya plugs from Bunnings (GridConnect and Arlec) that I have on localTuya that are decent, happy to discuss further if you're interested in going that way.
@upbeat prairie these ones from Bunnings look like what i want but i don't see them on the tp-link integration supported devices list https://www.bunnings.com.au/tp-link-tapo-mini-wi-fi-smart-plug-with-energy-monitoring-2-pack_p0410827
will prob end up with this but not sure how well it'll go. https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-white-grid-connect-smart-plug-in-socket-with-energy-meter_p0273367
d'oh
I just bought one of the P100 (no energy monitoring) yesterday, works fine
thank you.
oh, i see
it's the enrgy monitoring I most need unfortunately
i have lots of sockets without any issues
The P110 is supported
I just wasn't willing to pay for it when I was switching a bunch of cheap USB-powered LED lights
i guess i am also wondering how supported is supported 😅
I kind of want to not go to the store because I know i'll buy a bunch of things I don't need...
but i also want to test those energy monitoring sockets too.
Can you build your own ZigBee coordinator? A lot of the recommended products look very DIY. Would be cool to save some money
I went to the store and got the energy monitoring tuya plug, it's decent
and i got a couple of other bits and pieces too, not sure how well they're working yet.
Tuya plug? Or tapo plugs from Bunnings you linked above?
WiFi?
Nar that's alright, will go grab a couple now for the washer/s
lmk if you want my config, i set mine up this arvo
i also grabbed one of these but not convinced it'll work well https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-grid-connect-smart-home-control-kit_p0434997
I'm not using localtuya, just the cloud connection for my other kinda tuya things will see if that works first
it might work better with the official app, i couldn't get it working through either easily
but i am also hungover and exhausted so not doing my best work 😛
the arlec buttons etc seem to be very fussy re: wifi strength
I'm using some cheap door sensors off Amazon and aqara P1 motion sensors, haven't missed a beat but they're both zigbee
yeah i have some zigbee coming in the mail but you know how long these things take in australia.
so i did some impulse shopping at the green shed.
Amazon had my first 2 door sensors on hand, next day delivery IN PERTH!!
Any recommendations for a garage door device I can hook into my two Chamberlain garage door motors so I can open them from Home Assistant?
Grabbed the 4 pack just now, added into Tuya and straight over to HA without any issues.
Sensors look to be reporting fine, will see when something is run next
Yeah I had no issues with the plug, it was the pack of button+ motion detector + etc that I was finding finicky
Question on ESP 32... would this work with HA? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08246MCL5/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A38CU2XC1RY0BO&th=1
The board is not recognized? Please driver it first, or replace the USB cable Features: High performance-price ratio Small volume, easily embeded to other products Strong function with support LWIP protocol, Freertos Supporting three modes: AP, STA, and AP+STA Supporting Lua program, easily to de...
Yeah those will work with esphome, wled, or whatever compatible firmware you want to use to use them with HA.
Hi I have this device https://devices.zwave-js.io/?jumpTo=0x0090:0x0006:0x0642:0.0
That gets identified as this device https://devices.zwave-js.io/?jumpTo=0x0090:0x0001:0x0642:0.0
Is it possible to force zwavejs in haos to pick the right product id?
DB Browser – The official device configuration reference! If you wish to find out if your device is supported, please search for it here.
DB Browser – The official device configuration reference! If you wish to find out if your device is supported, please search for it here.
Does this work with older models? My openers don't have MyQ built in, they're probably from the early to mid 2000s.
Should
Anyone know of any "switch only" products in India (as in they have physical/touch switches but don't actually wire upto appliances) that's HA supported?
I've got a number of sensors that have CR2450 batteries, a couple of them in outdoor areas. The ones outdoors that get cold are dying after like 4 months. Anyone know of a battery or contact+temperature sensor that's resistant to the cold?
Do they stop working or just say that they are empty? I have one in a freezer and mine handle it rather well. It just says that it's empty all the time.
I'd say it's more a question of what kind of battery/cell the device is gonna use.
Nanoleaf bulbs seem to be the cheapest right now. If it's matter does it just work fine with a ZigBee? I've heard that nanoleaf bulbs are broken right now?
They stop working until I replace the battery.
The promised interoperability between matter and Zigbee is still in the future.
Really a lot of the things they're promising users when it comes to matter/thread are in the future.
Yeah I never said they didn't. But that's matter over thread and has nothing to do with Zigbee.
I thought ZigBee had a matter network or something
Idk how it works
Zigbee has a Zigbee network. Matter over thread is its own thing.
What's the cheapest way to get a matter network on a home assistant green then? Or does it just work out of the box
What sort of temperatures are we talking here? Those 3V Li-MnO2 batteries do lose a lot of capacity below freezing, you're probably lucky if you get half the rated capacity.
Also what kind of sensors are you using? Can you reduce their update rate? ("bursty" current draw works better than continuous)
I would have said - assuming 3.6V isn't a problem - replacing the CR2450 with an ER2450 (Li-SOCl2), but in that size they only seem to come in soldered versions.
Get a ha yellow, or use a border router from Google or Apple
Eg, nest hub, Apple HomePod, Apple TV 4K
0c to -20c for a few months a year
I can adjust the decimal precision for the temperature to change the update rate, but it's already at whole degrees
No independent control of how often it updates the temperature?
Not that I ever saw
That's annoying
if you get half the rated capacity.
Some of my ones indoors have already lasted 5x longer than the ones outdoors last
The battery readout from the sensors seems to be completely worthless and all over the place
Even on indoor ones that are working fine
Only er2450's I see in stock are from an Austrailian supplier for 24.60aud/ea before shipping
Battery level is based on voltage, which drops considerably at low temperatures. Not reliable
I have the opposite issue with my ER18505 powered LoRa outdoor temp/humidity/contact sensors.
Claim 5y battery life @ 10min update (plus X number of door open/close per day which I forget the number).
Have been in use for around 18 months, still reporting 100%.
Mine all are bouncing back and forth between like 40% and 70% charge
Some have been doing that since mid 2022
Found the datasheet. With one 3.6V 4Ah battery: 5 years with 10 minute reporting + 48 door open/close triggers per day (which cause immediate transmission). Supports two batteries, but only comes with one.
Since the two of us probably open/close the garage door at most 20 times per week, and the glasshouse probably 3 times per week, I can see why I'm coming in under
Nanoleaf sell cheap home kit bulbs. I'm not in the apple ecosystem at all. Can I still use them with home assistant?
Yea, homekit shows up in home assistant
Without a zigbee? Do I need an apple device or anything like that?
buy once cry once. if you want good bulbs buy hue bulbs and pair them to z2m or zha
certain homekit devices can be paired to home assistant directly over wifi without any apple shit just using the homekit protocol
but i wouldnt suggest going full retard with wifi bulbs
If it's all linked to home assistant why does it matter what protocol it is
that's kind of a silly question
airtime fairness and amount of devices you want on your wifi matters a lot
whether or not those bulbs have good transitions or flicker will matter to you later
Ah right they clog up the wifi
also each light bulb (assuming you went hue or other zigbee here) would act as a repeater for your zigbee mesh, so you'd have a nice signal throughout the house for various sensors etc
if you want to buy a couple of those bulbs to play then yolo
you should be able to google and confirm if they're able to be joined via homekit protocol directly to hass
It's £55 vs £13 though, I just don't see the value in that
oh i see you already had all the chats with puddly in #zigbee-archived
Yeah I'm just struggling here
hue rgbw bulbs are overpriced
but it is what it is if you want rgbw with them
i use DIY rgb led strips for color and bulbs are just white + color temp
I'm trying to start up a smart home and am trying to find a brand that works for me
I just need a brand of bulb that isn't insanely priced and works the best with home assistant
no reason to paint yourself into a corner like that
ikea sells cheaper zigbee rgbw bulbs but they arent as good as hue
I have 28 RGBW Wiz wifi bulbs I got for around $12/ea that have been solid.
I also have like 40 Hue bulbs that have also been solid, but cost about the same for only dimmable
I don't see WiFi bulbs taking up much bandwidth at all though
I'm already paying 100+ for a home-assistant green and sky connect
well dont buy those regardless
I have 52 wifi devices across everything without any issue.
green is an underpowered overpriced SBC
So what then
and skyconnect is a (not my favorite) zigbee coordinator using the efr32 chipset that a lot of people seem to have issues with
ofc I also have four APs for those 52 devices, heh
any mini pc made in the last decade new or used, and a cc2652p based coordinator 😛
Isn't that the old version with less power
what
less power?
Less powerful
than what
The ccc whatever
sorry you need to use specific terms if you want to learn and get help man
He's asking if the cc2652p is worse than the efr32
i wouldnt be suggesting it if that were the case
it's not newer, it's older and considered more stable
... because the efr32 comes later when alphabetically sorted
there have been multiple people in #zigbee-archived that have moved from a cc2652p based coordinator to an efr32 (specifcally the skyconnect) and ran into issues
diagnosed for weeks including with ZHA devs, eventually "downgrade" back to cc2652p and bam.. shit starts working again
also efr32 arent currently recommended to use with zigbee2mqtt which i use and suggest over zha (personal opinion here based on QoL and features)
Don't really want to get into pc territory right now. Is a rpi 4b 4gb good enough?
Though even that with a PSU and an SD card bumps it up to just £10 less
If you can avoid using a pi and especially an SD card, you should do that.
While it can work this is usually the begin of a lot of pain and buying fixes to issues you shouldn't have in the first place
Why? If it's because of price you can probably get a thin client or USFF (SFF is cheaper but bigger) machine for similar prices and can do a lot more with it.
It's a bit ranty but also give this a read: <#installation-archived message>
wdym why?
Sorry I replied to the wrong message. It's not always obvious it's separate messages rather than one.
Don't really want to get into pc territory right now
Why not?
I don't want something big and power hungry. I just want something that I can stick in a cupboard with my router and forget
That's probably easier done with a sff than it is with a pi
And avoid green?
You don't have to worry about the SD card dying every six months or about USB dongles being insufficiently powered
The green is alright for what it is. It's just not inexpensive with an asking price comparable to sff pcs
While I do not like it using emmc storage, people here told me that it will keep up for the job
Sff still too big to put in a cupboard with no ventilation and I'll want to build a home server eventually for jellyfin and pihole but for now I just want some small board I can set and forget
They aren't necessarily power hungry. Idling at less than 10W is common for non-ancient ones. The smallest thin client i know is the Wyse 3040. Not that I'd buy that but at least it's a "real" PC.
This person is reporting 3.4W at idle for a Dell 5070: https://fmdx.pl/2022/06/dell-wyse-5070-home-server/
You can do this with a $80 mini pc dude
https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html follow this and buy a used mini pc such as an m910q on eBay. You can get them for like $80
All of what I said? Id need a bunch of HDD bays for jellyfin
Ah okay thought you just wanted pihole and a few other containers
Well either way this is a better option than a pi 4
And cost is similar when you factor in accessories
Dell Wyse 5070 Thin Client with 256GB SSD and 8GB RAM (and the embedded 16GB eMMC) and an original Dell power power supply included.
I bought this for a project that I never got round to, but did upgrade the RAM and SSD.
The drive is formatted but I did have Windows 10 running with no issues.
Any questions, please do ask.
Thanks
Nah that’s overpriced
Even with 16gb?
I mean the size difference isn't that large
Those are kinda slow
Are these pcs loud?
No and they are very small
Is it better to go pre built than custom?
pi ontop of beelink
Example
The advantage is that they are small, not that they are heavily extensible
If you need a GPU, this may not work
Well he needs a hass machine regardless
But for plex the igpu that comes with Intel CPUs will do just fine
Pi4 just ain’t it
I wasn't planning on doing any transcoding
Anyway, I said that was for the future. I just wanna get started with a few bulbs with ZigBee for now
That's all I'm doing for now
We don't need to start big, but 200 bucks now vs 80 now and 200 later may be something to think about
And I don't plan on any camera streams at all so that's not a peoblem
Even something that is £50 now should be enough right? I'm not short with money at all I just wanna get started for as cheap as possible
So a pi4 with an sd card isn’t okay. So instead you’d need a pi4 with an ssd and a Sata to usb adapter, plus a power supply, plus probably a case and or fan/heatsink
Even if you just do pi and psu you are close to mini pc territory or even over as far as $ is concerned
Alright
Thanks for the help
I'll probably be back asking more in a few days when I've thought more about how much money I want to spend
Is 4gb ram enough
yep
Plenty. I don't know about HAOS but my container doesn't usually use over a gig. Around 800 MB average.
we get real weird with it in #add-ons-archived land
I hate my life
Yes I went with an rpi 4b. Lots of people have success with them and im not prepared to get a whole mini pc for 100 quid right now
Its significantly cheaper especially in the UK where the eBay listings of mini pcs are not great
So please, how much storage is enough
I was strolling the aisles of bunnings the other day and saw $9.9 Arlec "grid" smart bulbs. I know they're tuya based but they're surprisingly cheap? What are they like, any aussies with experience?
If they are wifi they shout avoid while if they are ZigBee it's a hit or miss
I have an enbrighten zigbee smart dimmer, hard wired in (with neutral wire attached). It seems like my home assistant only recognized the on/off toggle for it. I can't seem to make it be an actual dimmer. Anyone have experience with these switches?
yeah, they are wifi tuya based, dont even use the shitty grid connect app
all of arlecs/gridconnect things are just wifi tuya
Yeah I ran them through tuya, found that in a forum. Are they good? flicker? standby? life?
i use these ones for some things in tight spaces, they work well,
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-white-grid-connect-smart-plug-in-socket-with-energy-meter_p0273367
and you get quite a bit of info, which is nice. but obv you gotta connect it to tuya cloud, or use localtuya on HACS
Id recommend spending a buck more and getting something without tuya
Not having to mend those devices off their cloud connection isn't exactly nice
you cant get much in Australia
whats the ikea ones like them? I got some of them to try too but waiting for my sonoff zigbee gateway to arrive
ikea ones are zigbee
yeah, waiting for the gateway to arrive so I haven't got to test those yet
Shelly doesn't deliver to Australia? That pretty sad.
If you can go with ZigBee the tuya gear is a lot better to work with
Or Ikea, or whatever else. It all works as long as it follows the standard properly
Hue works through the hue integration, but it's just ZigBee behind that yes
You can connect those to a different coordinator and avoid their hub
Trying to avoid a proprietary hub where possible. Hence the sonoff for the ikea
Will work just fine
What is your light of choice? I don't want to go all the way up to hue (unless they're on sale). That's why arlec was so attractive cause they are stupid cheap. Ikea a bit more
I do tend to install hue ones, mostly for their white brightness. But people have little issues with the Ikea ones for the most part
Innr I also heard somewhere in-between as good enough but I have yet to experience them anywhere
I think hue is on special at Bunnings atm for the same price as ikea. Not 100% sure though
Luckily with ZigBee you can mix and match as you please
Do you use hue through their bridge?
I'd hope philips followed zigbee api but I just want confirmation 😛
I do use them through their bridge because I am too lazy to migrate them all. People who use it without their hub don't seem to have noteworthy trouble with it
Would suppose it's all good there
#matter-archived seems to be full of talk about them
Not sure how much that is something that ha would need to address and not nanoleaf
When I think about how little bigger the IKEA motion sensor would have to be to fit a pair or even a triplet of AAAs instead of a pair of CR2032 I almost get angry.
Although this is frankly ridiculous power use either way.
That seems like a bit much for such time. Maybe that battery was shelved for quite a while
But just using common battery sizes is a bit too much to ask for a lot of devices these days
I suspect that the pair they have in there would be used in parallel, and while they were a couple years on the shelf, they were from the same package. Let’s hope it was just the first little bit that went quickly, I’ll give it a bit of time and a few tries with different batteries before I consider the device faulty.
(The device that reports 200% battery is also quite… Special. I’ll give it time!)
How many garage doors can a single ratgdo control?
so i'm looking for a thermostat... requirements are:
- works with home assistant and/or homekit
- no cloud, not ever
- reliable
- nice-to-have: will work with both current forced hot water system and potential future central air
best bet so far seems to be the Honeywell T6 Z-Wave, or an old Centralite with Zigbee from eBay. anything i'm missing?
I'm still waiting for someone asking for an unreliable thermostat 
I have been using the mijia thermometer 2 with the custom atc bthome firmware. I am running on an rpi3b which apparently is known for now issues... So not that relaible but there's a custom zigbee firmware you could use for it. I'm waiting for my gateway to arrive then I'll be testing that
Oh no... I was going to get one of these for the front door...
People seem to have varying luck with them. I might just have a bad unit.
God I hope so 😅
I have that Honeywell. It’s not perfectly supported but is usable and stable
I've got a Centralite Pearl and I can't complain. Haven't had any issues with it other than it needing to be rebooted one time after some power flashes to get it back on my Zigbee network.
I'm thinking about getting a few of these fingerprint door knobs. It looks like it's run-off blue tooth. And even has a BLE. Do you think I can use it totally locally? Since it goes off blue tooth and even has a BLE. I don't want to use the Tuya app. I want to have it connected directly to HA. I just don't want to get them and I'm forced to use the Tuya app. I have purchased tons of devices that say you need Tuya but I was easily able to integrate it into HA with no problems. What do you guys think about these?
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $33.25 69%OFF | RAYKUBE M3 Tuya BLE Digital Fingerprint Door Lock Electronic Lock with 60/70mm Latch Keys Smartlife/Tuya APP Remote Unlock
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOS2H6g
https://github.com/PlusPlus-ua/ha_tuya_ble
It might work depending on the device. You'll have to do the initial setup through the Tuya app and get the device id and encryption key from the Tuya iot cloud just like when you set up a WiFi device in localtuya.
Vle fingerprint scanner lock doesn't sound very secure. Only so much data you can pack in an advertisement
what is the recommended hardware to use with HA, right now i just installed it on a rp 3
Based on some info I ran across there's a good chance it's not even regular BLE, it could be Bluetooth mesh which is a whole other situation.
Some kind of Mini PC or thin client. A quick search in this channel should turn up tons of links to different options. Even a busted up old laptop will give you better performance than the Pi if you have one laying around.
ya was lookin at mini pc but dont want to spend that much a used one
Look for used (U)SFF machines or think clients. These are cheaper.
I am running on a rpi 3b and now found out that the bluetooth on the rpi is useless. It drops out and theres no way to recover except a hard reboot
Looking for recommendations on a zwave or zigbee dimmable switch for light fixtures
i hate to echo this meme but
"it's a broadcom"
Honestly, it needs to be said. Broadcom NICs: garbage. Broadcom WiFi: garbage.
In fact the only product they make that I don't entirely hate are their switch ASICs, but it's only because Arista fix all the errata in code.
i run core on a netbook from 2011 HASS works on potatoes
but check out the elitedesk minis. they're a little less popular than the other brands so you can sometimes find a good deal
Get the best deals for elitedesk 800 mini at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
some models let you mount a 2.5 inch SSD and 1-2 nvme drives
How many garage doors can a single ratgdo control?
As an example, the 800 G3 Mini has 1x NVMe and a port that you can adapt out into a SATA connector
My machine came with the adapter but not the drive sled to mount the drive to, but that can be rectified with some 3D printed parts. If you don't receive an adapter, you should be able to buy a drive sled off of eBay and get both
FWIW I'm running it on rpi4 and it works like a charm @trail wyvern
Ofc you can also get the premade hardware (HA Green?)
Is anyone familiar with a HA-compatible herb garden/shelf? I know of many DIY projects, but given that I don't have the time to set it all up, I wonder if there's a premade product anyone can recommend 🤔
K maybe I'll get pi4 I think my pi3 not fast enough
Hello, I recently bought a Beelink N100 mini PC for home assistant. I am not sure if my raspberry pi had the same „issue“ but I was woundering if it is possible to make it so stable that even if you spam 5 times on/off of a Zigbee Light it still works. Right now it stucks for 20sec until I get a package delivery error.
That has not a lot to do with the hardware being used to handle your interaction but it's mostly about ZigBee and the bulb not understanding your intent
Or pretty much not being able to to resolve it in time
Could be an issue of the gateway or the bulb or anything in-between
So it could fix the problem if I use a better conbee adapter?
Unlikely
Does anyone know if these have the center tap transformer inside to allow each connection to be Gigabit (all 8 data wires) while providing 48v passive POE?
The manufacturer. But they look physically small.
This appears to be the same one and the description is clear ish: https://www.fruugo.nl/poe-injector-8-poorten-poe-power-adapter-ethernet-voeding-voor-cctv-netwerk-poe-camera-power-over/p-149475712-315688415?language=nl&ac=ProductCasterAPI&asc=pmax&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhc-sBhCEARIsAOVwHuQmG0JvhQMVsAu2kTtdQ14F3FO8CE7x_wWBk2-waY5tqOsKLZFNUfoaAid4EALw_wcB
Power pins 45 and 78, data pins 12364.
Which apart from the typo in 4 means: separate pairs, 100M only.
(If it is the same one, 14 euros is also really cheap for a 1G capable one. Too good to be true cheap.)
Hey there, I hope I am in the correct channel for my question. I want to buy smart tado thermostats for my heating. I am not sure whether I need the tado bridge for it to work or if home assistant green with the SkyConnect stick is enough for it to work. Help would be appreciated 🙂
Tado says their devices use 6LoWPAN so you might have to buy their bridge.
https://support.tado.com/en/articles/3557440-how-does-the-tado-internet-bridge-communicate-with-other-tado-devices
hello, may I get some help connecting a zigbee stick to HA ?
I have a docker on pi
access through ssh
but thats pretty much where my knowledge ends
I added this configuration:
followed by information from here:
in combination with this post:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/zigbee-config-docker-access-to-usb-stick/226567
Alright - I admit - I made a dumb mistake. I am posting this solely because when I looked I couldn’t find the answer I was looking for (which was simple). Maybe this will help someone else. I run HA on an Ubuntu PC insider a Docker container, and use Docker Compose. I recently purchased a Nortek Gocontrol HUSBZB-1 stick to add a zigbee and z...
Possibly get more advice in #zigbee-archived
didn;t see it, ty !
Are the Sonoff screens worth it??
Also anyone able to integrate a fan that has a controller?
Is it a driver issue you think?
I'm trying to get mine working too, it shows online, but it's not really doing anything. When I toggle the door it may or may not actually open the door, but it never closes it
I ended up just using a windows VM to flash them
worked like a charm
once I got them installed its been flawless
I only had issues with initial flashing
Could somone recommend a a smart circuit breaker panel?
I know Leviton makes one.
I am not sure if it interfaces with HA
I don't recommend smart circuit breakers at all. If they trip, the circuit should be checked and if a circuit is turned off intentionally, nobody should be easily able to switch it back on - especially not remotely
I've seen some sketchy stuff on AliExpress 😆
What would a smart breaker do, in that case? Just give power readings?
I was more curious if people had experience with interfacing panels for their data to go into HA
They can monitor the individual circuits, they can monitor loads from solar, and in-home batteries.
you can also make real-time throttle settings in case of outages
i know some folks with iotawatt type devices
for monitoring power usage
not smart panels, but they go in your breaker panel
Yes, the only isssue I had was initially flashing. I have yellow learn button
how long does it usually take for Everything Smart Technology to dispatch its items? this royal mail tracked 48 is looking like 96 hour and im only at the delivery address for the next 2 days
SPAN makes one that I’ve seen people like
Hey, has anyone used the LYWSD03MMC (mijia thermometer) zigbee firmware? I used https://pvvx.github.io/ATC_MiThermometer/TelinkMiFlasher.html and selected the zigbee option. I thought it would still advertise for configuration but its not. Have I done something wrong? How do you configure it now?
Hello guys, I have a basic cabling question. I recently bought some zblmini2 smart switch from sonoff. I plugged one into a simple wall switch, works perfectly. But now I try to install one on a back and forth system and I cant make it work (by work, I mean having the smart switch and both switched being able to control the light, no matter the state of the other two).
From what I can see, here is the way it is currently cabled : https://www.legrand.fr/sites/default/files/styles/lar_700/public/schema-cablage-inter-va-et-vient-2-cdes-700x400.jpg?itok=KLg5ejcu (I have 3 cables coming in/out my physical switch)
This is how it should be done : https://community.jeedom.com/uploads/default/original/3X/7/d/7d13dbd0557b8e3c60efd63484ba5557eba72f8e.png
Right now, I tried putting the L going to the light in the Lin of the zblmini, then Lout to the L of the switch. Then I took the cable coming one 1 or 2 (doesnt matter) into S1 and going back in it via S2.
Any idea what am i doing wrong ?
I have an Amcrest door bell camera, and have blocked the communication to their China cloud services and use the RTSP stream locally to capture movement and trigger things... It's worked great and I love that the video never leaves the premises.
Does anyone have any suggestions for something remotely similar (RTSP or onvif) for monitoring my driveway or side of the house? Ideally it's solar powered because I can't modify the house at all, but there's been a LOT of car thefts in my area and I want to have peace of mind.
Again, I want local streaming only, for lots of reasons, but mainly so I'm in control of the media.
Thanks for any input!
Er maybe I'll try in #cameras-archived , I didn't see that at first - but hey if you know, I'll still take input!
Hi everyone, is it possible to flash esphome to a zbminil2? I've seen the tutorials for other models like the minir4. Thanks in advance
Zbmini and the L variants are Zigbee devices and not compatible with esphome. The WiFi Sonoff mini line should be.
Thank you, this is what i feared... with a speed test the upload got a little bit over 100mbps 🤷♂️ .
Can anyone recommend a similar 8 port 48v poe injector that can do gigabit?
what would the need be for 8 individually wired poe ports
couldnt this be done much simpler with a switch?
Yeah, I feel like a poe switch is really the solution for this problem
Yeah it's more expensive than an injector, but in this niche case, it might actually be less expensive than a specialized 8 port injector
I wonder what this is supposed to power and transfer data from. For ordinary surv. cameras, even with the most ludicrous bitrate it wont saturate a 100mbit link. In addition 8 parallel runs is probably a nightmare to install vs just one at 10gbe
Could be a stack of access points or poe powered switches..... but then why do the big injector since the rest of the hardware would imply a budget to just get a good poe switch
I already have a switch gigabit switch and i don't want a second poe switch to be bottlenecked by the 1 gigabit lan link
there is no bottleneck if you do not saturate links
There's also no bottleneck if you replace the current switch with a Poe switch
but replacing one switch vs adding more gear to it would kinda be a smart choice
oh typed too slow
it is a 24 port switch. more than 8 devices
I spend the budget on the APs 😆
That'll help significantly
i thought the current poe 8 port injector was gigabit
cameras ( which can stay on the current 100mbps injector) and APs
id kinda would recommend ditching the 24 port switch towards something that you can chain switches with higher bandwidth and then have a 100m one for the cameras which is gbit back to the main one, and a faster one that does gbit for the aps
or well, depending on how many aps that are i could also see the injector being in range of the ap and not the distribution side
The 100mb injector should be fine for the cameras
Since they're each individual connections and can't saturate 100mbit
That would be nice but setup like that is a bit overkill and i don't have the budget for a nice switch like that.
yes, they can stay on the 100m injector
or just use the 1g one since it will have enough ports for the <8 poe devices
Get some individual injectors then for the aps
nah, that is too much clutter
I'm sure you can find some used or unwanted unifi injectors at least that would be gigabit
even new those are less than 15 bucks each
would be something to consider, poe switches are usually more expensive
id rather spend the $60 on a multi port injector
also id need a multi plug power strip and multiple power cords
Lol the ones I saw were all $100
oh
I'm sure China makes what you want, but will it last and will you find it
there is a downside to everything ^^
i know poe switches are expensive... hence my hunt for an injector
Literally just from a Google search, so don't trust me on it being worth it's weight in lead
I don't see why they are so expensive... they are just a pcb 8x $2 ethernet transformers and 16x ethernet connecors!
Lol it's the same price as an 8 port poe switch
Niche, the main market would just buy the switch
yeah 🙄
Without a large customer base, price goes up
what 24port (8+ poe) switch do y'all recommend?
Lol, I use a unifi 24 port switch, mine specifically was one of their beta hardware units that never went to prod, so it's really unique
But I also have their prod 16 port Poe switch that works great
But I also use vlans and other managed switch features
oh, that is active... I only need passive
$350 😅
Oh yeah none of the unifi stuff supports passive poe anymore iirc, also I think that "spec" was very loose and never really a spec
they do fortunately
I was looking at like 802.3at and bt
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2023/10/saying-goodbye-to-great-hardware-my-8-port-unifi-switch-finally-buys-the-farm/ I also have one of these switches
Such a little tank
But it's certainly not an inexpensive line of Poe switches, other brands are a lot cheaper or can be bought used easily to get good pricing
Lol, you'll have to try it and report back
I already have already tried poe, it does work. Just not at 1Gbit. only 100Mbit with the injector i already have
Anybody have any experience or advice for using an inexpensive touchscreen monitor and an Android TV box to run the HA companion ap or via browser for a wall mounted HA kiosk for use in US?
Lots of folks have used cheap android tablets to do so
Running fully kiosk browser or (now unsupported sadly) wallpanel
I wabnt a larger screen ~ 16 inches
buy a 16inch kiosk thing with android built in from alie
Really ??? Do you know why?
Probably the usual dev ran out of time to devote to it
something like this would work
Over-priced
Is there a hardware guide for setting up a voice assistant pipeline anywhere? Looking for CPU specs for good performance of whisper/piper/openwakeword.
I would suppose that any modern non arm based solution would work just about right
Depends on the software stack. Windows and consumer Linux and Android (and, I assume, macOS) are all trivial. iOS is supposed to be doable using the remote device management APIs, which means you need a Mac as well as the iOS device. Anything more exotic and it’s anyone’s guess.
Not really though. Kiosks made as such are an extremely niche phenomenon. It’s obviously going to cost more than a tablet. You could always have a set of four 90 dollar tablets mounted in a single case, I suppose.
I just need to run chrome on touchscreen
yes.... I'm looking at that
Or, I suppose, a raspi or miniPC.
some type of Android TV stick
I don’t have experience with anything like that, unfortunately.
Android tv seems like an ambitious ask, I haven’t heard of that being an option.
Especially since Android tv is not really written for touch screen use.
That's something I needed to clarify
Hi everyone. I’m looking for some electronics advice re reading wired alarm pir sensors.
I have an alarm system that uses wired pir sensors and I was hopeing to use an esp32 to read the input pins (without impacting the alarm itself)
I need a cheap device that can plug into a touch screen monitor that runs chrome and supports touch
The alarm is made by Eaton but can find no documentation
Raspberry pi? Plenty of touch screens for those and it can run chrome
yeah ... but overkill
need 16 inch screen
Ahh not cheap
yeah ...
Maybe a second hand touchscreen laptop
kind of kluge to stick on a wall
Why 16 inch?
smallest id like to use. 10 inch is too small to see unless you are right in front
I use a 7 inch fire tablet. Actually fine for HA. Only issue I have is the tablet itself is a bit slow with camera feeds. Maybe a 12 inch 2017 iPad Pro would do. Seen those going for pretty cheap on eBay
Yeah ... that's an option
I picked up a $40 refurbished no-name 7” tablet off Amazon for mine a couple months ago and by Crom, it is terrible. So slow.
That said, it DOES serve the basic function of showing the dashboard I have for my front door so that it has a slowly updating Pair of video feeds of the porch and looking out the front of the house.
I dropped a USB-C cable from the attic down through the wall and then printed a holder for it and I am satisfied with it as a proof of concept, but I’m pretty sure The itch to replace it with something similarly bigger and cooler will come soon.
yeah ... i have 6-7 years old amazon fire ... also slow especially for live stream of camera
I just bought a sonoff zigbee usb adapter. Anyway to pass it through my Hyper-V host to HA?
why is it so hard to find a wifi solar-powered camera with onvif/rtsp support? I hate this cloud push junk
I am looking to get a wall plate access point.
I have this router
https://www.tp-link.com/au/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-ax1800/
I was looking at
https://www.tp-link.com/au/business-networking/omada-sdn-access-point/eap615-wall/
Equipped with the latest wireless technology, Wi-Fi 6, Archer AX23 delivers faster speeds, greater capacity, and reduced network congestion.
New Experience of Room Coverage with WiFi 6—AX1800 Wall Plate WiFi 6 Access Point. 4 Gigabit Ethernet ports for bridging (1× uplink + 1× downlink), with one downlink port supporting PoE pass-through to provide power for wired device. Ideal for the use in hotel rooms, hospital, offices, dormitories and any other environments.
Possibly solar panels just can't supply enough power to maintain a streaming camera? I think the only way those cloud ones work is cause they do very deep sleep and only wake up to record small clips, they couldn't support 24/7 streaming.
The one thing you really need to take note of with wall-mounted APs is their antenna radiation patterns.
A lot of them are tuned to have significantly more coverage in front of the AP than behind (Ubiquiti's IW-HD/U6-IW for instance it's a >10dB difference).
If it's going on an outside wall "facing into the room" then great, but if you're expecting coverage in the room behind the wall, you might be disappointed.
Looking at that TP-Link one it's close to omnidirectional. (page 5 of the datasheet: https://static.tp-link.com/upload/product-overview/2023/202308/20230824/Datasheet_EAP615-Wall V1.pdf)
If you need streaming you're probably going to have to run power, whether that's an adapter for a WiFi unit or POE if you decide to go hardwired.
Otherwise you're stuck with cloud push or SD cards.
Ok, dumb question: a Sonoff switch flashed with ESPHome will be able to have one of the two switches not be wired up but still register as a switch in Home Assistant right?
Im looking for someone in the netherlands who is willing to split a Onju Voice order on PCBWay
In todays video we are taking a look at the Onju Voice project which is a really cool Local Voice assistant project by Justin Alvey. It allows you to replace the internals of a Google Nest Mini and convert it into a Local Voice Assistant that can be used by Home Assistant Assist.
This will allow you to access and control all of your smart home...
Can I somehow add a layer of remote control to this without removing the original knob controls (I'm not allowed to remove them)
That'd be a topic for #diy-archived - and if you can modify that then probably
I purchased the zigbee version of this light sensor https://www.joom.com/en/products/625532a51769a701f67de31c. I've paired it successfully but no sensors show up in HA. Do you think there's a problem with the sensor or is there a way to add the sensor (I think I added extra sensors to a camera device but I can't seem to see how to do that know, perhaps the front end has changed?)
#zigbee-archived can help with #zigbee-archived stuff
Good day, I am enquiring how to connect an Alexa Echo Dot (5th Gen) with a Apple TV HD device so I can use Alexa to control the Tv
I want to if its possible, I only learned about Home Assistent today
Then you need to look at the various parts (and this channel is wrong for all of them)
You need the #integrations-archived for Apple TV, the #voice-assistants-archived for Alexa, and #voice-assistants-archived to help you understand what Alexa can do (it probably can't do what you want)
Can someone recommend a cheap like 60 to 80-dollar door lock that's supported in HA?
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $63.27 69%OFF | Tuya Wifi APP Smart Remote Control Fingerprint Biometrics Password Card Code Deadbolt Automatic Latch Lock
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP9e38M
I purchased this but I don't know if I'm going to be able to integrate it with HA. It's tuya wifi.
Think it would be possible to integrate this?
I need a new HW setup.
would you guys reccomend either:
RPI5 8gb, NVME hat+ (500gb), POE hat+, (Perhaps a UPS hat+)
Nuc or similar
Docker
Need to be able to use zigbee
Curious if anyone knows how these diagnose states work on the ratgdo. All my dry contacts show "OFF." Any attempt to send a signal to the garage door dose nothing. I have checked the wiring multiple times to no effect.
"NUC" or similar - just about any SFF PC
and my garage is randomly opening...
does a rpi used for home assistant need cooling? even passive?
on my pi i dont start the cooling
Hey all, looking to dive into smart switches, and I think I'm down to Aqara or Inovelli atm *US Based). I see a lot of people recommend Inovelli, although they seem out of stock atm, and I can't tell when they'll be back. Anyone have any experience with Aqara switches?
i'm thinking of mounting the rpi on the underside of my desk, but i don't see any mounting backplates online for anything sensible
i was thinking of velcroing it
i'm concerned that those passive heatsinks might melt any adhesive for the velcro
also this makes it easier to remove the tape from the pi once it isnt needed anymore without ripping off components
if the heatsinks get hot enough to do that, putting it on without the heatsink will also do that
you got any recommendations?
personally these work well for me so far
https://geekworm.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-heavy-duty-aluminum-passive-cooling-metal-case
there is a pi 3 compatible version aswell
they may have another one with a flat underside, this may be better for the tape but i havent tried those
https://geekworm.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-aluminum-alloy-heatsink-case-p232
did i make a mistake only opting for the 2gb pi4b?
i feel like i shoulda gone for the 4 now
i cannot answer this question for you
2gb memory for a basic ha installation are more than enough
alright yeah it's very basic, at least for now
it ends up depending on the integrations and addons used
with a pi, the performance probably gets unusable before you run out of memory
so this may very well be a reasonable purchase to not spend more money on more memory
are the chips on each memory option not the same?
yeah, so why would the performance become unusable before?
pretty much because of the very limited computational power of the pi
unless you have applications using a lot of memory while performing not a lot of computation
I'm stumped how to flash my Adafruit HUZZAH32 – ESP32 Feather Board with ESPresence. Neither my Mac or Windows computer sees a serial port when I connect the micro USB Cable. Not even a driver issue, as on Windows there's no unknown devices.
Does it light up at all? Have you tried other USB cables?
I fixed it. Oddly, the USB cable I was using worked with the Ecowitt weather station to flash it, but not the Adafruit. I did get lights. I used a USB cable that came with my GL.iNET and then the serial port appeared.
hey there everybody 🙂 coming seeking thoughts and help on a silly setup I have and struggling making it work :/
I have a led strip connected to a Bluetooth controller, which is fed via an external usb battery.
The strip is initially controlled by LotusLantern app, and integrated into HA with elkbledom - though I believe it's not imporant, would believe the problem would still happen with any other led strip type.
I can turn off the strip, change color, and turn it on if it has recently been turned off, both with the app (LotusLantern) as well as from the HA integration. BUT if the strip has been off for a bit longer (have not investigated how long exactly), then the strip does not turn on again, and I need to press a button on the battery to force the reset and re-turn on.
Has anyone experienced this? any proposal for a workaround?
Thank you very much!
Hey :)
I was wondering if anyone knew what this blinking pattern mean on a rpizw ?
I have now 4 of them that bootloop on "any" sd card... this one didn't until i upgraded the os from bullseye to bookworm to test (faild because it also crashed durring it)...
The i'm using a bench powersuply to make sure it's not a bad power limit. Sometime it boot, but it will end up like this again after a dozen of minute
So it’s the battery pack that turns off? It probably turns off when it detects almost nothing’s being used. Just a standard usb battery pack?
yep, its a standard power bank (https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B0BWJ3BK1Z)
Yeah, those normally turn themselves off to save power when they’re detecting (almost) no power is being used. Modifying it to not do that may or may not be possible.
grrrrr, wasnt planning on tampering with the batteries :/ I'll think of an automation to turn on and off the lights every now and then to keep the battery awake 🙂
thanks !
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004360072281.html
Just got this for proxmox with home assistant and other stuff..
It's awesome
Do anyone know if there is a power strip with outlets that can be controlled individually as well as having individual power monitoring per outlet? EU plug
hello. I'm looking for security cameras with video feed easily accessible over network using custom software... like using a rtsp address or something like that.. anyone knows what to avoid.. which brand make this simple? etc..
indoor.. wifi, 1080p
Reolink and Amcrest units should both do that just fine.
#cameras-archived can probably help further though.
QUICKLYNKS Auto Battery Monitor BM2 Bluetooth 4.0 12V Device Car Battery Tester https://a.co/d/eASWCLH
Can home assistant connect to this ?
Hi, is there a streaming box/stick like Apple TV, Fire TV Stick, ... which will let me integrate it to HA and use it as a media device. For example i would like to stream music or radio to it. I would connect the streaming device to my tv which is connect to a stereo system. Thanks ahead for your help 🙂
Chromecast
Ok thanks. So i can stream radio to the chrome cast than? I tried it with a older Fire TV stick which i intergated with adroid debug bridge, but that did not work.
Well, as long as you have something that works with CC, yes
That's pretty well documented and open, so it's not hard, but it's probably not click two buttons and done
What do you mean with "something that works with CC"?
You need a source that can talk to ChromeCast
Ok so i would like to use the HA intergrated radio.
Or probably build a dashboard radio on my own with mini media player.
Yes right
Probably that'll work, since HA just sees a media player
Ok. I asked because, as i wrote before, i already intergrated my fire tv and it did not show up on the device list.
Probbaly i simply need to try it
I'm brand new to all this, except some philps hue crap
Are there any power strips that have at least 4 controllable power ports (US), and controllable 4 usb ports?
Or even separate power strips for both
are there at least just induvial HA controllable usb ports like there are power plugs?
Hi guys!
I spotted this reference of Zigbee connected thermostat, would you have an opinion to give me?
https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B095HYFFML/?coliid=I1WN8286DE39EX&colid=158E7VF8EOE2Y&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Is it possible to track the energy usage if I have a single smart plug and a plugbar is inserted into it?
Yes, it's possible, but take a look at the technical specifications of the smart plug to avoid overvoltage.
Okay, maybe I'll have to wait a little bit, since I cannot see every sensor of that plug.
I have a previously working zigbee that won't start on 2023.7.0.dev20230626
Tia
#zigbee-archived can better answer Zigbee questions
Does anyone have immediate red flags with this generic Android tablet as a wall-mount display for HASS? The price is good, but I don't know what to look for beyond a big display that's cheap and can run kiosk: https://www.ebay.com/itm/314632658805
you can pick up 8" galaxy tabs for cheaper with less luck involved
I don't have either, but my only point is that the samsung stuff at least has a history of staying operational, has "know cruft" vs unknown cruft, etc.
just check age - https://www.ebay.com/itm/364658931980
that's probably too old 🙂
Fair enough. It looks like you can install Lineage on Fire HDs, which may be the way to go since they are basically selling the tech at a loss banking on you providing data/watching ads
you should validate that you can do that on current purchases
at a certain point put a value on your time, is paying $200 for a tablet that just works worth it compared to $80 one that you have to spend hours fidling with. That's a personal choice question.
first search for lineage on firehd10, says install on 2019 fire-hd only.
Excellent point. Good things to keep in mind. I'll probably opt for known brands at refurbished/used rates rather than taking a leap of faith on unknown tech.
9th gen - https://www.ebay.com/itm/235262960089
based on using wikipedia to track down 2019 release
My UniFi devices page shows that all my Shelly devices are online and it shows an IP address for them. However, every single one of them is timing out when I try to visit the built in web server so I can update the Shelly firmware. Anyone have any tips on how to reach these guys?
did you install them on different networks/vlans and configure a firewall? Are they pingable?
They're on their own SSID, but all the same 192.168.. network. No ping - all timed out
Going to try resetting a breaker here shortly to get them to reboot, see if that helps.
Hi, I'm not sure if this is relevant to this channel but I'm trying to get an Eve Thermo to switch to thread connection using HA yellow
I was able to enable open thread router on it
but I can't figure out how to get the thermostat to switch from bluetooth to thread
are you attempting to access them from another device that is connected via wifi? if so, do you have client isolation turned on? if so, that might be your problem. wifi clients can't talk to each other, even if they can talk outside.
attempting to hit them from my wired desktop machine
if it were me, i'd try putting something you know works otherwise, on the shelly devices' SSID and make sure you can ping that. also the shelleys try from that (isolation notwithstanding)
I've got a couple of Tasmota outlets, one responds instantly to ping, the other is in a very low signal strength area and isn't responding ATM... (Yes, I need a couple of new APs. They're in the works...)
IR blaster question. I have a broadlink RM mini4 (https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM4-Universal-Control-Compatible/dp/B07ZSF46BX?th=1) - and it's okay. it's configurable etc, but it seems to be flaky in the sense that not all signals reach their target across the room. Part of it is there isn't a great place to mount the thing in my particular room and I can only get it so close to its targets. Are there other IR blasters that might be more powerful? Anyone with experience in that area? Thanks!
RM4 mini turns your smartphone into a universal remote and integrates control of home entertainment and automation devices in one easy-to-use app BroadLink. RM mini4 works with Alexa/Google Assistant/IFTTT. When paired with Alexa, it gives you hands-free voice control of your devices, like turnin...
So I've got a question about using Zigbee devices. I'm not sure I really understand how they work regarding hubs and integration with HA. I've got HA on a proxmox server in a very far corner of my house where my internet cable comes in. Most of my devices and usage would be approximately 75-100ft away from it. I am looking to get an Aqara Vibration sensor to notifiy me when the dryer is finished running. Anyways, I don't really know what I need in order to best connect that Aqara sensor to HA.
Do I just need one of those USB zigbee coordinators plugged in via USB (and passed through to the HA LXC on the server, of course) and probably some kind of zigbee "router" to get the signal strongly to the part of my house with my devices?
I have Google Wifi Mesh so I have a mesh repeater nearby with an open ethernet port that I feel like could be useful here, but not sure that kind of coordinator exists.
not 100% about zigbee, but i think it works the same as zwave. you need a "hub" my zwave is just a usb stick. they form a separate "mesh" network than your WIFI (it's completely independent). homeassistant interacts with the hub to control devices on the network
there's gotta be a few hundred youtube videos on the subject
Thanks! I'll see what I can find
Hi ! Anyone knows the precision of the Sonoff Pow Elite ? 0.1 / 0.01 / 0.001 kWh ?
Sounds like you might could benefit from using a network connected Zigbee coordinator like one of these from tubes https://tubeszb.com/
power cycle the switch between the HA and the access point. I've had issues with arp cache being corrupted/missing/wrong
Do you guys know of well-fitting surface mount boxes that you can mount gear like this to? Ones that fit exactly right and look good, ideally.
you can search for standard sized surface-mounted boxes but those may have non standard surface profiles
you may aswell be out of luck with it looking good with it sticking out quite a lot from a wall
Yeah, I can try doing legwork but I was hoping someone hasnalready done my homework for me.
not impossible but unlikely considering its tuya based
dont they offer something on their site for it?
it should include some details about how the mounting is supposed to look like
Tuya zigbee is close enough to real zigbee to be workable, for me. But yeah, wouldn’t want the WiFi versions.
It’s just standard euro in-wall boxes, but that only works if you have them actually in the wall.
I think it’s based on 78mm squares or something like that?
Alternatively I suppose I could learn how to drill holes in brick walls for in-wall mounting boxes. tjose I can get on every street corner.
issues probably come into play with the profiles being used. while the inserts are standard, the covers are not
Yup. I would hope for boxes that a) look good, and b) are no more than a mm or so off on size. But it’s gonna be a tough road to hoe when you’re just, like, shooting in the dark. And ideally I would want the box to be reasonably sturdy and look shiny and flat. So many of these things are made in flexible shitty plastic that shrinks where they have ribs on the inside and shit like that and ends up with a super wavy look on the outside. Which, I mean… there are worse things, and this is super first world problems, right? I know that. But still.
I’ve found people online in this country that sell switch gear that looks like that — presumably white labeled from china and quite possibly tuya based, I didn’t look very far — and they have single boxes that the claim are for it and they are suuuuper cheap.
Like 3 euros for a box cheap. Now, I’m not opposed to paying fewer hard earned euros, in itself, but… there is no way that’s made with high quality materials, I very much suspect.
this is a bit too short
86x228mm
the boxes i found are more like 85x240-260ish
ah no
https://www.busch-jaeger.de/online-katalog/detail/2CKA002084A0716
would be on a base that "should" fit
but then that is everything but inexpensive
reset the router/AP. No difference... Didn't actually pull power though...
no need to pull power, I've had issues were the switches get the wrong mac addr, or similar issues. Haven't narrowed down the root cause. But if you have systems that are actually online, and not showing as previously connected, I would go down do you get the mac address in your arp cache when you ping it? If not, you aren't even getting layer 2 connectivity, which is moving closer to some network blocking (you said they were all on the same /24 network, but different SSID's)
Going a bit crazy here. I have Bluetooth lights and temperature sensor.
Can I just buy a ZigBee dongle and use that as a Bluetooth receiver or do I need a Bluetooth dongle
zigbee and bluetooth are completely different protocols. unless your lights and sensor also speak zigbee (hue bulbs do both), you'll need a BT dongle, yes.
if your lights do speak zigbee and your temp sensor doesn't, it might be easier to replace the temp sensor
Ok cool. All the recommended bt dongles on HA website are not found on Amazon.
Does it really matter which one I grab?
probably. i haven't looked into BT because it's nothing like as flexible as zigbee (no mesh), but which zigbee dongle you use does matter, so i imagine the same is true of BT
Does anyone have experience with the Aqara Presence Sensor FP2. Everything worked great when I first set it up. I set up the sensor using the Aqara app (iPhone) and then removed the device from Apple Home. After installing the HomeKit device integration in HA, the sensor was shown to me directly in the popup and I was able to connect it. Now I decided to use the sensor in another room and reset the device to factory settings and removed it from HA and the Aqara app. I then did exactly the same thing as described above but the HomeKit device integration does not recognize the device. It doesn't appear in the list. It is deleted in Apple Home and only connected to the Aqara app, everything works as intended here. Zones are there, detection works, device has an IP address. Does somebody has any idea
@finite quail What WiFi system are you using?
Hmm ok...sometimes Homekit enabled/integrated Eeros can block the FP2 if removed from Apple Home.
I just had hope because I found out that I hadn't reset the sensor correctly. But still no success
Oh man, that's frustrating. Everything was already working
you could always check mDNS to see if the FP2 is being listed properly
Each FP2 should have: _aqara-setup._tcp., _hap._tcp.
I've never done anything with mdns. I'll look for instructions or ask chatgpt
"Flame" app on iOS is great
both entrys are correct
Reboot HA?
Hi - I have done the 2024.1.1 update yesterday on my RPi5 - however now the rpi is stuck on boot with
"kgdboc deferred probe pending"
#installation-archived , as I mentioned
Hi,
I have a question about lighting setups. I have my entire house with Philips Hue bulbs to control everything with Home Assistant. But I would still like to keep a classic use with switches (in case of crash of the home automation box). My problem is that if I touch the switch, it cuts the power to the bulbs. Do you have any ideas to overcome the problem?
I have just been told about Philips hue switches but are there other solutions. I bought a sonoff zbmini thinking it could do the job but to no avail
There's these:
https://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/SmartBulbDimmer/overview.aspx
The Aurora Smart Bulb Dimmer provides the comfort and convenience that you can count on with your Philips hue light bulbs.
I didn't specify. I'm in France so I don't necessarily have the same switches :/
well really the only option is to replace your switches, there's ones that do exist that can be configured to keep power to the fixture and send a command instead.
That is what I thought. If you have references I am interested. I tested the Aqara H1 but it cuts the power.
a google of "smart switch that leaves power on" shows a lot of discussions and options out there that might work for you
otherwise, someone told me about Shelly, wouldn't that work? I don't really understand its use
yeah looks like shelly would work similar to the switches.
Yes you can do this with stock Shelly firmware- set the relay mode to detached so the load will always be on. The switch then acts as a smart switch only to tell home assistant to do whatever you want. In my case, I have it controlling a smart bulb in a 3 way circuit. The Shelly detects if either switch is flipped and turns on the bulb. Smart bulb always gets power so I can also turn it on via Alexa or Lovelace and always acts as a zigbee repeater.
So, sorry it’s taken so long for someone to provide you an answer. I was actually Googling this and searching the forums and found this, but obviously no one had responded. I eventually figured it out, so here goes: Using a Shelly in Detached Switch mode within Home Assistant to drive automations: First, you need to have your Shelly configur...
I’m looking for recommendations on running my HA system. Right now I use an USFF Dell PC and it runs at ~35% CPU and HA bogs down most of the time. I’m running Frigate w/ CPU detection on a doorbell camera. Also using it as a Plex Server. I don’t think anything else causes much load.
I’m planning to run Plex, Frigate w/ 4 cameras, and HA. I’m considering getting an Odyssey Blue w/ an M.2 Coral Accelerator. I’m not sure if I’d be better off running HAOS (as I do now) or switching to running it in Docker or something else.
Any recommendations on hardware and HAOS vs other installations?
that appears to have a Celeron J4125, same CPU as my Synology DS920+
it runs plex just fine, but if you want 4k transcoding it's not so great most of the time. 1080p transcoding with the iGPU is great though.
So transcoding a 4K movie for playback outside the house wouldn’t be very good? I run everything internally at native rates.
personally something running an N100 should do about fine for 4k transcoding on the igpu from what ive experienced so far
but i have no knowledge about frigate and wether or not that would enjoy having a larger accelerator card or one of those corals more instead
coral modules dont do transcoding
they are just for ai stuff like motion detection, face detection etc
thats what i said didnt i
Yeah, sorry. I wasn’t trying to confuse the two. The Coral is just for Frigate processing. But power for Plex transcoding is unrelated. My current CPU is an i5-4570S that looks to be much higher performance than the J4125 in an Odyssey Blue. Maybe that would be a downgrade.
Yes ish. It's a decade year old 80+w tdp cpu
consider going with jellyfin so you dont have to pay for transcoding
But I think I would like to upgrade and do it right. Something to handle HA, NAS, Plex, Frigate, etc with ease.
It does perform better for it not being severely power restricted. Newer gear however turns that around quite some
If money isn't limited, the zimacube seemd interesting for such things. But both the way they handle stuff and communicate about it makes this a not really recommendable choice
Good call on Jellyfin. I'll set it up and see how it goes. I don't pay for Plex Pass.
Money isn't an issue but I'm also value oriented, or cheap haha
i just hate subscriptions (yes i know they offer one time payment)
usually you could go with mini pc kinda devices, but for actual nas storage they just dont have the drive capacities
there isnt that much around in that regard
building one yourself with some mobile and efficiency focused hardware isnt that easy either as they all lack the pcie connectivity to add proper amounts of drives
not to mention the lack of good cases
https://www.servethehome.com/the-everything-fanless-home-server-firewall-router-and-nas-appliance-qotom-qnap-teamgroup/
this one is cool
not terrible but also not great
what is bad abt it?
its not a device that aggregates storage into it
its a device you can connect storage to it additionally
that has some advantages because you can choose, but really all that does it make it more costly and less nice to work with
I recently moved HA off my NAS to a Beelink N100 PC, under proxmox. I needed USB ports basically that were all used up on my NAS
The NAS is the least important part of the setup to me. Right now I’m running a USB SSD as NAS and it works fine. I just want to be able to share files and videos locally with no real need for high performance.
This one would fit one of those new 61.44TB U.3 NVMe drives 😄 https://store.minisforum.com/products/minisforum-ms-01
Yours for "only" ~$5k USD for the SSD, and $1k for the PC to put it in
$5k is above my interest level haha
but just one drive isnt that great
if you just want some ssd storage you can put 2x nvme drives in it and 2x sata one
thats really not that great to pay for
like 8tb ones still are at close to 1k
in the sata world thats like a 400$ drive or with an hdd its 120
not very competitive yet sadly
idk, considering you can plug something like netapp jbod in it
ez 12-24 bays of 3.5" storage
another large box with severe depth in a rack ff
i dont see why the head of it would need to be an sff then
like you either want it to be something you can leave somewhere easy or you dont
cheap shipping from 🇨🇳
Sadly, nope. That SFF-8087 is 4× SATA. Ain't SAS
kinda weird that we dont have nice desktop solutions for this yet
sadge
besides the weird 8bay ones from qnap
I have one of these mid-priced desktop SAS JBOD boxes: https://www.areca.com.tw/products/jbod-4038.html
Was thinking that Minisforum machine would make a nice "NAS head" to plug that into, since it would fit a SAS HBA. Shame it doesn't have a CPU that takes ECC RAM though
i mean it already utilized ddr5 memory
even without its likely alright not to have for a nas
tbh you sound like a customer for a tower server like hpe ml30
pretty much, i have yet to see this actually make a difference
Hi folks, am I right in thinking because phillips hue is Zigbee protocol, I can just buy any zigbee bulbs and it should work with it right?
this may depend on wether or not their hub n app know what to do with such device trying to join the network
using in addition to more general solutions should however work
Yes, you can add other zigbee bulbs and the Hue Hub will connect to them
I assume you’re using the Hue Hub and not a Zigbee hub or BLE/WiFi only
anybody have an everything presence one sensor?
Alright. I need some recommendations.
Smart light
Preferably zigbee or at least a local integration
Tuneable white
At least 8w/806lmn
E27 and b22
Standard bulb shape
I tried some tuya arlec lights and I don't like tuya for lights.
I have tried IKEA and warm white felt washed out.
I just tried hue cause I found some on special and they don't fit in my fan light assembly because of the chode.
Hi! I have a home assistant yellow and a zigbee light.
I want to replace the dumb hardware light switch. When searching online, I see a lot of switches that connect to the cables, but shouldn't a switch for this lamp basically just be a remote control?
How do I search for dimmer switches that are for smart lights and not for dimming dumb bulbs?
Is there a way to disable the LED on zigbee motion sensors?
No clue but use zha toolkit or z2m to check its attributes
Isnt surface pro should be powerful enough to display HA dashboard?
Having issues with a couple of animated cards showing error element doesn't exist
Do you want it to be mains powered or battery?
There's things like the aqara h1 which (supposedly) have a 5 year battery life and do what you want
Does anyone have G-Homa smart plugs by any chance? I'm trying to retrofit them with custom firmware but I'm not having any luck.
the update mechanism seems completely broken, they have "newer" firmware which disabled the HTTP server and it won't connect to the custom firmware update server when I provide it via serial commands
it's actually so broken, I can't even pair it in the official app anymore
Okay, I managed it today after the 20th attempt. The first problem seems to be my WiFi (access point directly one room below), it's more than sufficient for normal operation but apparently not good enough for setup and recognition in HA? (I don't fully understand) I have now set up the FP2 near by my access point. This time I used an Android tablet, which has the advantage that the FP2 is not automatically added to Apple Home (like with an iPhone). I only did the basic setup in the Aqara Home app. Then I moved the sensor up one floor to its final destination and set up all the zones. Next I wanted to add the FP2 in the HomeKit device integration. (Now it was finally displayed), but the attempt took so long tat it timed out. So I brought the device back down to the AP and here I was able to add it without any problem. Once that was done, I actually fixed the sensor in its valid position. Now everything works.
I just bought a mini PC (Lenovo M910Q) and I'm playing around with proxmox. I've created a VM for HA and it's restoring the backup of my production install. How much performance is "enough" for HA? I'm not running that much on it: Adguard, Grafana + InfluxDB, a few integrations and I'm getting into the Voice Assistant. I'd love to increase the time it takes to work through a voice command. on the RPI it takes like 5 - 8 seconds. I'd like to reduce that as much as possible. I gave it 2 cores (i5-6500T) and 8 GB of RAM
