#hardware-archived
1 messages Ā· Page 46 of 1
don't know if there is a better company that is "buy and just use" out there that I don't know about
There's the Shelly Uni. My advice would be keep learning the ESP. ESPHome just keeps getting better and better.
Hi, I bought a garage door opener but I cannot find entities that open or close. How do I fix it
#zigbee-archived may be able to help
Anybody using/tried the Aqara blind driver E1? Last I checked it doesn't update the position of the cover in HA if it's set manually. Is this still the case or are there any workarounds that have been developed?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005262421075.html
had anyone tried using this as smart thermostat/ home assistant interface
I should have. It's tuya stuff š¤®
On the good side it's significantly cheaper than aquara gear and it worked flawless to integrate with zha
Tuya zigbee is ok. It's their locked down wifi api that is shitful.
I have a strange problem with my IKEA TRADFRI LED bulb E27 1055 lumen, dimmable, white spectrum. If I make a light card, and just have it switch the bulbs, they always turn on at very low intensity, like 10%. But the slider is at 100%. If I touch the slider, they light up at 100%. But if I turn them off and on again, they are again very dim. I could call the turn-on service instead, but then I can't turn them off with the same button... Am I missing something?
i really wanted some of their GU10 RGBW but they never seem to be in stock š¦
are there any other brands that have the same features ?
Pre Flashed WLED WiFi Smart Bulb Pre configed IOs plug and playPre flashed before assemblingBuild in ESP8285 chip with 2M flash To reset bulb please follow the instuction of the picture Color: RGB+Warm+Cold White Color Temperature: 3000-6000K Brightness: 300 lumens Voltage: 110V~240V Power: 4.5W Base: GU10 Material: Aluminium+Plastic Working T...
lumens arent the best but i have two in a half bath and they work well
thankyou, sadly thats a US basd link, im in the UK..
was looking at these instead https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09M3677F7/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=A36SQ6NXACWNJI&psc=1
and then flash them ? .. smartlife stuff can sometimes be flashable !
so hard to tell š¦
buy them from alie
Any idea what the best integrated robomops are?
it's a bitch but openvaletudo flashed on roborock seem to be the best
Looks like it's just disassembly and flashing? I can deal with that
Has anyone tried these switches in the US ? SONOFF ZBMINI ZigBee Mini Smart Light Switch(2 Way), Compatible with Alexa, SmartThings Hub, Google Home & SONOFF ZBBridge, ZigBee 3.0 Hub Required, Neutral Wire Required, 2-Pack https://a.co/d/e3oxnPn
Hi, anyone know/has experience with a wrgb bulb that could work with home assistant in the « G4Ā Ā» format ? Zigbee would be even better, but the form factor make me doubt itās even possibleā¦
That one in the picture apparently comes in a Tuya WiFi version, which is a solid "maybe" for compatibility...
This page says zigbee, but also bluetooth and wifi, so who knows: https://www.lutou-tech.com/products/bluetooth-wifi-led-color-G4-bulb/
Lutou coloured g4 halogen bulbs feature of a MESH network design, which can control more than 200 bulbs at one time, and the dimming and color changing is highly consistent. Order smart G4 LED zigbee bulbs from our factory directly at competitive pricing.
Itās this one right ?
Etl Ip65 Ceramic Smart Wifi Control Rgb Led 12v Low Voltage 2w G4 Bi-pin Bulbs Fully Potted Electronics Outdoor Lighting Lamps - Buy Etl Listed Ip65 Waterproof Ceramic Construction Smart Wifi Control Rgb Intelligent Led 12v G4 Base Lighting Bulbs,2w 9-17v Ac/dc Low Voltage Copper Bi-pin Base G4 Led Bulbs For Path/step/deck/stone/retaining Wall L...
Really look sketchy, hoped someone else had been on this quest before š
I also found this page
https://www.superbrightleds.com/g4-led-smart-bi-pin-bulb-rgbw-color-changing-hubless-alexa-google-assistant-wi-fi-compatible-bluetooth-controller
Look really similar, probably drop shipping ?
2x 1 star review š
Yeah, Iām in Europe, Iāll have to pay twice the price of the bulb for shipping anyway
Lovely
I'm in New Zealand, so I feel your pain there
Well anyway, if someone have already tried some G4 rgbw connected bulb, please reach out !
Found another one.
https://focusledlighting.com/products/smart-spotlight-g4.html
Part number that only a mother could love: K22-GU4-RGBCW2250G-AT2.5-D360
12vac, rgbw landscape g4 lamp, color changing and white color tunable, bluetooth and 2.4g dual module
And one more with a stupidly high pricetag (but free shipping, which might make up for it)
https://sincelight.com/products/wifi-led-smart-g4-bulb-rgb-3000k-changeable-1
ELECTRIC DATA Voltage ( V ) 200-240Vac 50/60Hz Power Factor ( ) 0.5+ ELECTRIC DATA Voltage ( V ) 200-240Vac 50/60Hz Power Factor ( ) 0.5+ ELECTRIC DATA Voltage ( V ) 200-240Vac 50/60Hz Power Factor ( ) 0.5+ PRODUCT DATE Type of Luminaires Recessed Focus Light Product Wattage ( W ) 12W Colour Rending Index 80 / 90 / 97
You should be able to change that in: Settings > Devices and Services > Zigbee Home Automation > click on devices > click on the Ikea bulb > look for Configuration section. On mine there are 5 settings for bulb start-up behaviour
Is there a preferred z-wave front door lock you guys recommend. I'm on my 3rd schalge z-wave through warranty. Initially, it was chewing through batteries and then it became unresponsive. Looking for something more reliable.
Anyone found a matter or Zigbee lighting scene controller that works with HA? Looking for a 1-gang US solution to set HA scenes
Thanks, I'll try that š
Damn, theyāre quite obscure and not really documentedā¦
You think this could be a solution ?
Aren't those G4 lamps usually 12V?
They are, so the sheer existence of this is confusing me
Is there 12V E27 light bulbs ?
Ok there is. But I canāt see any decent connected ones⦠Damn that lamp is a pain
Well, Iāll go with this one and document my findings for the next one who try this. Thanks for the help.
G4 also comes in 230v
I bought a fire tablet max 11 during this black friday and am using it as a home assistant tablet. Fire toolbox worked great, just make sure to check the box of not including your account pre loaded during ordering and not connect to wifi when you boot it
Is there a way to use wakeword with tablets?
Are they really good as they claim to be ? I am confused between choosing this vs a 2 gang smart switch. Any caveats to the ZBMini?
Is anyone elses Skyconnect not loading up. Mine randomly stopped working. I can get it to be recognized by USB and COM port in my pc but when I click to update firmware from the website it just loads forever.
Hi, I'm considering either Aqara E1 or Tuya AM43 blind drivers for my home. Does anyone have any experience with either of these models??
From the limited stuff I managed to test with em, they works advertised for the most part. Id not trust it to switch near full load but that's just me
Some people switch the firmware
Only major disadvantage I found is the device size making installation kinds difficult if there isjt massive space
Hi guys, I recently got some zigbee smart light switch modules (from the Avatto brand). They worked perfectly at first, but we had a smart power outage this morning (just a flicker off and on) and the module I had installed seems to have died... The LED no longer lights up at all. Is this normal with such switch modules, or did I just buy a super shitty type? I have the no neutral type if that matters...
I honestly thought the thing to worry about was connectivity, and that if it consistently stays connected to HA over zigbee, then I'm in the clear... But now having to worry about power outages has me quite concerned š
gonna give it a try again š
Is there a preferred wifi or zigbee relay switch that can be powered by 5V usb for HA?
I need to wire a few dry contact switches from an Energy Recovery Ventilator and I donāt have line/neutral available from a circuit
something like this?
or does it need to let energy trough ?
I donāt know if thatās exactly it. I was thinking/reading something like this :
There currently is no switch there, to make smart. I need to add a switch but donāt have typical electrical to support what a smart light switch would require, for example
https://www.lilygo.cc/products/t-relay there are boards with multiple relays that you can run esphome on
LILYGOĀ® TTGO T-Relay ESP32 Wireless Module DC 5V 4 Groups Relay Development Board 4MB Flash WiFi Bluetooth Remote Switch Control Specifications MCU ESP32 FLASH 4MB PS RAM 8MB Bus Interfaces UART, SPI, I2C, CAN, 12S, SDIO Wireless Wi-Fi 802.11 b/g/n Bluetooth BLE V4.2 Onboard Functions 4 Groups of relays Optocoupler Iso
Someone is saying it should be zero minimum load. Iām not sure what that means or if this relay fits that
Im being told that based on the diagram it looks like those switches are interrupting the circuit which is powered separately
Not those because they sneakily adapted the USB port to work with their custom flashing dongle
Thinking this based on all the info Iām gathering:
Dry contact
Wifi
MHCOZY eWelink app WiFi Smart Dry Contact Relay Switch Module,Work with Alexa Assistant (5-32V 1 Channel) https://a.co/d/9urOBGW
That's probably not an ESP WiFi module and I never saw that one before
whats your project, maybe we can help
How do I confirm if ESP wifi?
Also, if it works with Alexa, why do I need ESP?
I have the back door Alexa integration working well
It seems like I canāt find something that is both listed as dry contact, esp, and takes external power from a USB or similar.
Pretty sure the board smarthomesellout posted earlier can be configured to work as a dry contact.
Iām trying wire 2 switches for my Panasonic ERV, for the on/off and boost. My research tells me it needs to be dry contact. I also would like it to be wifi. I do not need a physical switch. I do not have a switch box pre wired for it, so no line/neutral to grab. So 5V usb power or similar would be good
That looks appropriate. Canāt confirm if itās ādry contactā though. Do you know ?
The relay is a dry contact you have common NO and NC as you can see on picture 5
How does it get power ? Could I use a 5V usb 2 wire kit? Something like this?
USB 2.0 Male Bare Cable Pigtail Open End Extension Cables 5V 3A Power Charge Wires DIY Connector Replacement Cable Cord 18AWG -2pcs (0.3M) https://a.co/d/ineRpQB
This The USB 2.0 Male Pigtail Cable Adopt The upgraded design Pure copper core wire, double insulated PVC protection; Anti riot sunscreen, anti-oxidation, anti-aging, wear resistance, which has a longer service life. Rated voltage: 5V, can be too large current 2~3A,.Widely used in SB interface po...
I see a terminal block right underneath your red circle that says it provides 24V AC to power the thermostat
Here's a cheap 24VAC->5VDC converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TLLB35X
Iām running 14/2 wire from the ERV to the furnace already; which tells the furnace fan to run whenever the ERV has power.
My understand is that the on/off switch and boost switch are separate from the HVAC/AHU connection. Sorry the instructions suck for this thing
Hey guys I bought a Beelink Nuc to use as my home assistant install. It looks like the options are use ubunto live and install it that way or use an external ssd enclosure. And flash it right from there. I actually have a 256 SSD and I have enclosures too. The beelink came with a 500 GB SSD I'm just wondering how much space I actually need for home assistant directly on a Nuc. Can I use that 256 GB ssd I have or should I go with the 500 GB SSD that came with it.
HAOS requires (recommends) 32GB. When you want to run lots of addons you might need a bit more. Are you comfortable/interested with/in virtualization?
I kinda know how to do it but a few years ago I used it on a VM and had so many problems. I had to start from scratch two times then kinda gave up on it that's why I figured I would just install it on it's on device. I already bought it. It was cheap and more powerful than a raspberry Pi.
What's so much better about using VM's vs putting it on a barebones system. I plan on buying the could feature and supporting them so if something happens I shouldn't have to start from scratch.
That's why I recommend virtualization. The hardware is likely "too powerful" for just HA but it also works bare metal, of course.
256GB should be more than enough if you don't abuse HA as a NAS or NVR.
*cloud.
Yeah, I have a NAS for Plex but just with my bad experience before I figured the 100 bucks was worth it I know it's overkill. But I already have it and don't need to dedicate some of my hardware to it from my Nas.
Why virtualize: #installation-archived message
I'm not aware that the cloud feature acts as a backup.
Oh really? I thought that was one of the main points. I didn't back it up before which is why I had to start from scratch.
I'll look more into it but it's a paid small cloud service why would it not back up your install? Lol
You have to ask them. Some people's databases alone are in the double digits GB range and there's already an integrated backup feature.
Yeah, I'll do more research and back it up often to my nas anyway. I would like to support the dev and it's not much. Has some cool features even if they don't back up your system.
I'm sure there's a way to back it up daily to another computer. I just haven't looked into it yet. As I said I had a bad experience a few years back but I'm much more tech savvy now. I just wanted it barebones even if its overkill.
Your choice. Just wanted to inform you of (in my mind) better ways. As long as you run a supported installation method you should be fine.
I'd recommend adding your NAS as backup storage and making backups to it:
- https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2023/06/07/release-20236/#connect-and-use-your-existing-network-storage
- https://www.home-assistant.io/common-tasks/os/#network-storage
I'd still be curious what problems you had if you want to share.
Hello, I currently have my pergola setup that opens and closes at the roof like in the image and I want to make it smart and control the open and close like the shutters. Can I do it with a Shelly Plust 2PM (https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-plus-2pm) and if so how is the connectivity gonna be?
Shelly Plus 2PM is a small form factor 2-channel smart switch with power measurement and cover control, which allows remote control of electric appliances through a mobile phone, tablet, PC, or home automation system. It can work standalone in a local Wi-Fi network or it can also be operated through cloud home automation services. Shelly Plus 2P...
I don't really remember the specifics that was my first experience with VMS though and it got messed up twice. And I didn't back it up. My nas isn't a commercial one it's got 98 TB but I'm running it on Windows. I hope I can auto backup to that. That's all gonna come later though first order of business is taking apart this Beelink and flashing HA to the SSD.
If I could go back I would have installed unraid or something but I used windows and a windows only pooling software called Stable bit and it's extremely hard to migrate to Unraid. Stable Bit is great though it makes my 14 drives even USB drives that are not recommended for Unraid. And duplicates all the files and makes everything in one folder. Everything is working great so I just don't see a need to go through the hassle of using Unraid.
Someone gave me an older enterprise server that I know nothing about but I want to learn so I'll have that set up in the next few weeks. I will definitely use that for backing up.
There are no options that I'm going to lose by going barebones right?
I'm not that familiar with proxmox I could technically install that on this Beelink too right?
Yep
The main question is is there any options I would lose running barebones? What would the advantage be for installing proxmox?
I plan on only using this for HA
See my link from earlier. You don't directly lose anything. Just miss out on benefits
I read them but didn't see any benefits what are the benefits?
you get full backups, snapshots, a build in monitor to debug. You can also better utilize the hardware. Not every service (very few imho) are feasible to run inside HAOS
easy troubleshooting (basically a build in monitor and keyboard), snapshots to test and then potentially revert things you otherwise would be too afraid to try. The ability to backup a whole machine and run other VMs/Containers and so on
I recommend running critical/unrelated things (adguard, unifi or bitwarden for example) or those that require flexibility outside of HAOS if you can as these will go down on OS updates. You can't do that with a bare metal HAOS install.
Some of my previous answers towhy run HAOS virtualized. Just some of the benefits and reasons why I recommend it.
Also see posts like these which you can find with queries likevirtualization benefits: https://old.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/qw4bqn/why_use_virtual_machines/
I recommend Proxmox VE. Here's a quick start guide for HA: https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html
Even if you only run HAOS I would recommend it due to the benefits. And here's why I wouldn't run HAOS bare-metal without those benefits:
I don't plan on using it for anything besides HA. I have a bunch of old laptops running Linux and stuff. And mini computers. Snapshots means it backs it up automatically? And the other pros are I have another IP address to check on it? I have a Nuc. It's not super powerful I probably would have bought something else if I was going to do Proxmox. Can't I see the CPU usage and memory usage and right on Home Assistant? I'm learning about proxmox looks cool for a stronger machine. Better than the VMS I used on Windows. I used the software that goes right on Windows when I had the problems. I think HA running barebones on this NUC would have plenty of resources. It makes better use of the hardware running proxmox and HA? I would think that running one own OS would be better.
I actually have another mini PC that I don't have a use for not sure how powerful it is but would be interested in using proxmox. I've been playing with kali and would like to make other VMS. I just don't know if this 100 dollar NUC is the best device for proxmox.
Snapshots and backups are different but both can be used to restore a previous state. A snapshot is more like a bookmark while a backup is a copy. Both have their merits.
Better use of the hardware because you can run more than just HAOS on it. If all you want to run is HAOS then yes that's not a point and only more work.
You still have the other benefits though and your plans might change later if an addon is too restrictive, not available or something like listed above. Like I said I can only give you pointers. It's up to you to research and make a decision. I don't want to coerce/nudge anyone into doing something they're not happy with.
don't know if this 100 dollar NUC is the best device for proxmox.
If you give me more information about it I can tell you more. If it has less than 4 threads or 8GB RAM (PVE itself uses 1GB~) I probably wouldn't recommend it.
It's 8 gb ram 500 GB ssd and I think 11th gen 95 nuc.
12th gen š and its great for proxmox
Yeah actually is 12th gen.
I just figured building a proxmox setup on something with more power. Do you think I could add a windows VM or Linux for trying to hack? I just feel like there's not enough resources.
I could probably upgrade the ram I'm not positive though.
only if you plan to use them 24/7 simultaneously
Yeah could just turn them off when not using and use it for HA 24/7 how much resources should I give to HA if I do this?
I use 2G and 2 cores for my test VM. You can always change it later. Also use ballooning and KSM to stretch the RAM
USB 2.0 Male Bare Cable Pigtail Open End...
hi, i bought some smart plugs that came pre flashed with esp home.
I'm not sure what I've done but i think I've somehow reset the firmware on them so now they are showing under wifi ssids as "esp-xxxxx" that i can connect to.
When i navigate to the device via ip there is no web server , is there a way i can flash these wirelessly?
The ESPHome Discord can help there
Is tuya smart devices a good brand ? I an new to HA and I am looking for something affordable and tuya seems to have a competitive price point but i am concerned about privacy however i use Zigbee so should that not be a concern then?
Some of their devices are good (or good enough). Zigbee devices themselves are no privacy concern. If you use a tuya hub then that differs.
The WiFi devices .... not so much
Cool! I am just shopping around for smart switches and motion sensors!
Nope I use my own conbee II gateway
It always make me think (probably I am just over thinking) since I am new to HA which is hardwires to my router via ethernet and it has Internet access and what stops the devices that are integrated with HA to talk to some random cloud server (not just Tuya but in general) ?
Well, HA does
If the devices don't connect to your WiFi (or wired) network, then they cannot communicate out
They don't know how, they have no capability to do so
Yea HA does talk to other cloud services but you are saying the devices donāt if they are not connected to WiFi correct?
Correct
Thank you
does it really matter after initial flash since you can OTA?
you just gotta buy their extra stupid dongle right?
This keeps taking about the model above what I have with the n100 mine was entry-level and has an n95 but it probably not that much of a difference.
See for yourself: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/5206vs5157/Intel-N95-vs-Intel-N100
its comparable, somewhat more efficient
i recommend adjusting the fan curves on those beelink devices
Just... Or choose a device where you don't have to do that at all
Not a fan of that. If they're not going to put USB to serial on the board they should leave the UART pins available for people who don't want to pay for their little contraption.
Though they do show the pinout right there on the website and USB C breakout boards are cheap.
Or, yes, you could just not buy a device that tries to make you buy a goofy adapter.
Has anyone been able to integrate HA with Enbrighten's Single-Outlet WiFi Smart Plugs? I just got off the telephone with GE/Jasco and I feel like I lost 50 IQ points.
and I'm not interested in installing another stupid app to control a smart plug.
(or to connect it to my Wifi IoT network.)
anyone have any experience with a humidity and temperature sensor with a display that can survive a sauna? I've tried the Shelly H&T and it's not working really
Looking to add my Honeywell Lyric T10 with remote sensors and the thermostat added but not the remote sensors. The IoX/PG3x integration sees the room sensors but not the HA. Is there a way to add to HA with the remote room sensors?
Do you need the display in the Sauna? I would have a look at the YoLink YS8006 Range is -22°F - 122°F (-30°C - 50°C)
would be nice but i can live without it
would that range even be enough for a sauna
probably not if the integration (zigbee/zwave?) doesnt allow you to integrate them directly
oh it's wifi
ya no way in hell the sensors can be added separately but an integration might allow them to be used
did you add them via homekit controller?
Seems like the integration should add the sensors, the one for IoX/PG3 does, but I am trying to move from IoX to HA
is it https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/honeywell/ this integration?
the total connect?
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/honeywell/#sensor it does show the sensors coming in
cloud polling integration rip
That one
Anybody here use Abode for their security and use the zigbee hub they provide? Wondering if I can get rid of my hubitat and just run with the Adobe hub for a few years
i'd move to fully local regardless (homekit controller)
ecobee thermostats are commonly connected locally over wifi the same way
That is my goal
is anyone aware of a zigbee stick that is connected via ethernet rather than usb?
ya dude buy a tube PoE coordinator
i would personally suggest this one, especially for use with zigbee2mqtt
i also own it and beta tested it for a while
so I would need an injector most likely
i use a unifi PoE switch but ya you'd need an injector if you dont have any poe switch
doubt my switch will reach as far as i need it
or more realistic it goes through a bunch of patch panels so idk how good it will be
idk
either way this is what im lookin for so ty
laughs in way too many spools of pla
tube ships them with a little 3d printed case but my buddy edited the f3d file to add mounting holes
oh sick
I'm trying to setup a stream deck on a separate RPi4 using the custom github repo. Could anyone point me to where/how to ask questions about this configuration? Thanks.
I've got a ceiling fan (not smart) with no wall switch, just pull cords on it. I'm trying to find a way to control it, turn on and off the light, fan speed, and direction. I'm not sure what these devices do, is this going in the right direction? https://www.shelly.com/en-us/products/shop/shelly-dimmer2-use
Although I've never used Shelly devices on a fan, I've used them in many projects to remotely turn things off and on. Just watch the voltage and amp ratings.
it's not just voltage and amp ratings it's the inrush current (like < 3 amp is commonly supported for fans)
That makes sense! Thank you! š
most relays just cant handle it i think
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this covers it pretty well (using a smart plug)
Ah ha! Now I know what inrush current is! Thankya! š
yea he's really good at breaking things down in an easy to digest way
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor this can be used to signal on existing smoke alarms with interconnect traveler wire being used
SAFE ALERTS PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Ā Beta ReleaseĀ Ā Ā This device may not be fully integrated with your hub at the time of purchase. You may need to update the firmware of the device after the purchase. QuickĀ reports to your hubĀ forĀ low-voltage trigger signals, including interconnected hard wired smoke and CO detectors by al
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Detector-Carbon-Monoxide-Generation/dp/B08FFB233Y there is also this zwave one
The easy-to-install, wireless, battery-powered First Alert Z-Wave Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Detector Alarm helps protect your home and family from potential dangers. It is designed for improved compatibility with the Ring Alarm Security System and other certified Z-Wave systems, so you can be kept ...
hello anyone know about fire alarm can use for home asssiant ? want know which kind of that thanks
im having trouble moving datadisk form external ssd to internal nvme any ideas?
Is the NVMe bigger than the external SSD?
Shelly Plus 2PM
Anyone know if its possible to fit a shelly pro 4pm in a regular NA electrical box like a 3 gang or bigger?
I cannot find proper recessed din rail enclosures for these
You probably could, but I donāt know if thatād be a good idea. Why not get a bigger enclosure or a terminal box?
Something like this would be easier (although this could be a little bit smaller)? https://www.mcmaster.com/product/5376K631
(Also doesnāt have to as fancy, but again, itās a guiding suggestion, not a direct recommendation)
I have a Zooz Zen17 controlling my Chamberlin garage door since the MyQ drama. I seen an assortment of threads discussing setting the device_class to garage, as it is now defined as a switch. If I can get it set to garage then Alexa will allow pin usage. This worked fine on my previous SmartThings setup. I am on 2023.11.3 Any suggestions? thanks..
Probably more a topic for #zwave-archived since that's a Z-Wave device, but switches don't have a device class
Thanks..
I just got myself Audio+ v2 by Raspiaudio, plugged it into my old r/pi-2 - and it immediately started overheating. Specifically, the AMS1117 chip (voltage regulator).
Any idea what the problem might be? Have I got a bad sample or am I missing something?
something is shorting, would just replace it. I've got a couple hifiberry dac's in pi3b+'s, anda pirate audio dac on a zero. Also used a hifiberry dac + amp without any issues.
Is there something like Sensibo that connects via ethernet? I really don't need anymore 2.4ghz devices saturating the network I just want to run my mini split with some brains
ESPHome can control many split systems. https://esphome.io/components/climate/climate_ir.html
ok thanks hopefully I can muddle my way through this.
Would not look good in every room visible and you cant put those in closets by code
#diy-archived should be able to,help also there is an ESPHome Discord server.
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
thanks I've been meaning to learn about this anyways so its time to just jump in
@jade jewel Why do you need it in every room? What are you trying to do? And yeah, Iām not familiar with the code and āsmart devicesā, what are you referring to? NEC/NFPA? If yes, do you mind sharing the sections? Iām curious š
Question i want a pressure mat for under my bed i have a withings 1 that does that, but it doesnt work with my reverse proxy setup, it doesnt respond to my subdomain does some1 know a alternative that works with zigbee ?
no DIY quz my crafting skills suck
using this 1 atm
https://www.withings.com/eu/en/sleep-analyzer
hmm could also combine it with ifttt :/
Its a new construction and rather than getting all wires to a central place I wanted to keep each smart device in its own room with its own switch so essentially only 2 wires going to each room would be a romex and a fiber.
I dont remember the exact code number but by code you cannot put a junction box or a subpanel in a closet
Junction boxes and sub panels needs to accessible without having to move anything and should not be near anything which could ignite so clothes in a closet will be why its a violation
I will let you know the exact code when I get back from work
I am thinking about ways to make my gas heating "smart", i have wired KNX and added floor heating this year, now i am thinking about a way to "request" heating from my gas heating when there is a need to, turning it on.
I had one of these room thermostats from before the remodeling and just adde a knx relais to simply turn it off and on, on being in the state of "please heat until 30c° is reached, which never happens". Now i wonder if it could damage the gas heater opening and closing the circuit.. Weird that nobody on the internet seems to have gone that approach yet, atleast i can't find any documented case of such smart automation...
that's delightfully retro
I don't see how that could be a problem, but it's not far off from just replacing the whole thing with a set of remote-controllable relays. Which somebody shared here recently
you're just adding yet another set of relays in series
well i don't really know the internals of this viessmann controller, but it should in theory just send on / off, looking at the red light on the thing
it has 3 connections, so not just a simple relais
hate knx for this stupid thing tho, the mdt temperature controler has no "output" that goes high if any circuit is turned on, i'd need to buy a seperate logic module to or-chain all the 8 inputs... thank god there is home assistant š
i think a group would be helpful for the trigger lol
plus idk why your if is necessary
it's gonna trigger on any of those entities
oh i am turning on / off based if any is on, dont want two different automations
(there is an else to turn off )
ah ok
My tapo smart switch went nuts yesterday, just started switching on/off every second or two. Most annoying, since my internet/router/ha was on that plug...
i use trigger IDs and a "choose" action instead to accomplish the same thing
can't seem to find the post you relate to
It was a couple of months ago. They posted a picture
i think i figured the pinout, it has ground, L and N, .. thats why its 3 pins, not sure why that device needs ground tho XD
well, but nvm, if its just a relais it shouldnt harm to add another relais, atleast i can see the state on the thermostat led that way š
since i am close to completing eletric wiring in my house i was wondering about room tracking / presence.. i was looking for ways to put esp32 in the celing, preferable where lamps are at but stumbled upon the shelly plus minis... has anybody sucessfully converted shelly plus pm mini to tasmota and can tell how well ble tracking over wifi works on these small devices?
I don't think the Shellys are capable of that. If you want to use ble for presence detection look into espresence
Or just use mmwave sensors
Probably a bit too specific for Discord, but anyone got any AU recommendations for ceiling fans with some sort of remote control (either smart or RF) that still have bulb recesses in them large enough to fit Hue bulbs? Looking to replace all my fans and don't know where I should start.
Would hardware like this work with home assistant?
I know it says tuya but but their all zigbee devices idk about the actual alarm mount though.
but this one has WiFi if the image is truthful
Tuya WiFi is a roll of the (pretty loaded) dice. Some stuff works with the official Tuya integration (that Tuya wrote then walked away from), most doesn't. Some more may work with their latest (custom) integration, but based on history probably not. Oh, and there's a bunch of local integrations that also have hit and miss support.
If you're happy knowing that you may buy a bunch of stuff that doesn't work with HA, or may only partially work, or may intermittently work when their cloud platform sulks... go for it
Yeah I could always sell it on eBay this whole kit I can get on Aliexpress with the Cyber Monday deal for 40 dollars looks like similar systems on eBay are 100 plus depending on how many sensors and this one has a ton for 40 bucks free shipping.
I think all the sensors are Zigbee I did buy a Zigbee said Tuya Human sensor device for like a dollar something ill see if it works. This looks like all the devices are Zigbee but the alarm is wifi.
Anything that says Zigbee/Tuya I should absolutely integrate right with a local Zigbee dongle.
Am I correct in that assumption?
Because they are just saying Tuya because it can integrate with Tuya.
For Zigbee stuff always go direct
Your assumption about them being Zigbee though ... that's optimistic
They may well be RF433 or similar
(that'd explain the low price)
The one human detection sensor I actually want to use specifically said Zigbee I'm thinking about buying this thing to sell tbh I don't really need an alarm.
Wouldn't be the first time Tuya's got the hardware details wrong š
Check out Milo Minderbinder over here,
Yeah, this specific alarm doesn't say Zigbee. But the other sensor I got specifically did. This alarm says it's compatible with Alexa and google home though.
Well, that just means the main unit uses WiFi
Yeah think I might just buy to sell. Someone will enjoy it who doesn't care about HA integration.
I bought a bunch of stuff off Aliexpress and turned a profit. Just sold some no-name but feature full headphones. It has a mirror and a flash light you can charge your phone with it so it's a battery block too with fast charging. They have the choice things where you can get crazy low prices I got it for 1.83 and sold it right after I listed it for 16 plus shipping. Just did my first big transaction and got 100 of them from the main company that's made for bulk stuff got them for a little bit more actually with freight shipping and taxes. If this works out I might get that tax-exempt paperwork. I've been decluttering and selling stuff on eBay this is my first venture into actual resale. I'm so mad finding all this stuff I bought on Amazon like the same exact thing for a few bucks when I paid 20 plus. I don't mind waiting for the extra time. Name brand stuff seems like its always the same prices though but always free shipping so thinking about canceling prime. The customer service on Amazon is bomb though. I suspect aliexpress customer service blows and returns probably suck and are expensive.
Got another Beelink and it was only a few bucks cheaper than Amazon. I just bought one for HA but I'm going to put a Linux Distro not sure which one yet and got an HDMI splitter for 3 dollars so I don't need to run my power-hungry gaming computer if I want to just browse the web. Plus I want more experience with Linux.
I'm pretty sure I have most of the sensors I need might buy more later but paid lots for the name-brand Samsung ones. That somethings hub is going on eBay as long as my washer and dryer which are wifi can connect right to HA does anyone know if that's the case? Do I need the hub to interact with their applications? Or can I connect it right to HA? Sorry I got off subject but that's a hardware question I need to know before I sell it. I got a Zigbee dongle and may get a Zwave one. The only Zwave product I have is a smart Smoke Alarm so I'm not jumping to buy one. That would be the only last thing I would need the hub for if my washer and dryer can be controlled by HA locally they connect via Wifi.
"Smart Things Hub
Might sell the zwave smoke alarm too. These devices because their zigbee I should be able to connect locally?
Or you think because it says its compatible with tuya and smart life you need to use those I want to run them locally to my HA. Because these fire alarms are definitely Zigbee. I paid like 90 dollars for a Zwave one. Only have the one about to jump on this deal if you guys think it will be able to connect right to HA?
Might just buy these and never have to buy a Zwave Dongle.
The description talks more about the Smart Life app which I've never even heard of.
Found a review saying specifically that they integrate with home assistant so if anyone needs some extra sensors they're super cheap on here.
My Zwave Alarm has CO2 as well but I don't even have gas it is electric everything.
Can someone who has Samsung Smart Appliances confirm if I can directly integrate them into HA I don't need the Smart Things Hub for this?
they are 4mb dual core esp32's, pretty sure they should be able
Hi, I would like to fully automate my heating. I plan on getting a full set of SonoffTRVs. If I want HA to be able to control the heating demand based on whether any rooms need heating, I am going to need a switch to replace the boiler thermostat. I was going to use a standard Zigbee relay to switch the boiler but someone said this is a bad idea. I am concerned that if I'm out and HA fails it might leave the boiler running always-on. Is there a better device to use to switch the boiler that would be safer?
I would like to measure if my gate is opening or closing, preferably by measuring the power draw directly on the main board. Are ct clamps+esp the easiest way to do this?
Are the motors AC or does the gate controller make DC and use that to drive the motor? A CT can't be used to measure DC and I think DC is quit likely as it enables reversing of the motor easily where AC doesn't
I would be putting a CT clamp on the wire going from the main power board to the motor, so AC current
Do you have the motor model?
Somfy slidymoove 600
I'm still not convinced it's an AC motor given that it can be solar powered and can reverse direction
Its a DC motor, but converts incoming AC
Which is why I was wondering if using a CT clamp at the breaker in the main board is the easiest way
Has anyone tried the Insteon integration with a serial to network device to connect the PLM to a HASS VM, like this?
https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/lighting-primary-technology-plug-ins/lighting-primary-technology-discussion/insteon-mnsandler/1354729-serial-plm-over-ethernet-yep
I know Mark has mentioned in the past he prefers the serial PLM over USB or the Hub. The PLM handles inbound messages better and can't be screwed up by automatic firmware updates from Insteon. I run Linux HomeSeer in a virtual machine on my Synology NAS. There are no serial ports, so I had been using a Startech USB to serial
Im looking to get rid of my Sengled Zigbee bulbs because of the "ON" status when there is a power outtage. I dont really care if its zigbee or Wifi, just need color. Any suggestions? Local if possible
I use ZHA, any idea if the Ikea setting can be changed without having the hub?
Gledopto's RGBCCT bulbs also support configuring start-up behavior.
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#e=power_on_behavior has a lot of hits for you
Oh cool thank you
How is it attached to the mains?
Directly connected to the breaker with a 230v ac cable
That's where you'd put the clamp, on the AC coming into the board. The board itself is probably going to be where the conversion from AC to DC is happening.
Are you using the light output?
If the light comes on when the gate is opening or open, either pin 14 or 15 on the connector block will go mains-hot when that happens. That could be an indicator you could use
Ah, I see, okay. The code makes sense, yeah, I didnāt process what youāve said yesterday. You could try a 3-4 gang, but honestly Iād just get a plastic junction box with a DIN rail and cut-outs with available/pre-installed cord grips and just live with the fact it might be a bit visible. Maybe you could place them closer to the ceiling and paint over the cover with the same color as the room itās in
I think there is a little misunderstanding. With main board I mean the wall mounted board with all the breakers, not a connection on the motor itself
Any idea on this? #hardware-archived message
So from this board a cable is feeding 230v to the motor, and it is on this cable I would use the clamp. I do also have a voltage sensor so using the light might also work
argh, bricked the second shelly pm mini, trying to flash espresence OTA... so sad nobody has a guide for this yet :S time for some soldering action....
I have some sonoff zgminil2 (no-neutral) zigbee's to install this weekend, no re-flashing required
Hi everyone, I kind of, sort of, got my raspberry pi3 home assistant pretty well setup. I've been trying to move it to a Dell optiplex and doing the migration thing didn't seem to work at all. Almost nothing transferred over. Is there a guide somewhere specifically for moving from pi to dell? Also, I'm a bit confused as to whether I should be using the optiplex exclusively for HA or if I should be running it in a container or docker or whatever so I can run some other stuff on the Dell, and/or use the pi3 to build a pie hole instead. Any links or guidance greatly appreciated. I have so little time and barely enough skill/knowledge to get things working.
suggestion would be to install proxmox, a free hypervisor, and install HA inside that as a guest. Giving you some flexibility for future moves and resource allocation.
I did a pi3->vm install awhile back, but i started fresh instead of migration, so can't comment on backup on pi3, restore on fresh install on vm (though this is the recommended migration way last I checked)
https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html follow this to setup an haos VM inside proxmox and then setup a dockerhostVM or for simplicity use LXCs
https://tteck.github.io/Proxmox/ these scripts will also be helpful
Scripts for Streamlining Your Homelab with Proxmox VE
does any one have a good recommendations for non hub/cloud wifi wall switches? I would like them to ideally fit in a dual gang box with a normal switch. Not too picky about looks other than it be an actual switch and not a touch pad
Why Wi-Fi only?
I dont really want to deal with dongles or add ons to get everything to talk to ha. Im running HA as a vm on proxmox and right now I have some bt sensors working but dont want to think about bt wall switches.
what smart speaker has the most functionality with HA? I have a Homepod mini and a Google Nest Mini. Im not really into the google ecosystem so im trying to look at a better solution.
you could look at the logitechmediaserver (aka squeezebox).
I run LMS on server, and have a number of clients in the house for music
Im running haOS in a container on proxmox and ive passed through my on board bluetooth adapter. It shows in the terminal under lsusb but when I add the bt intergration it claims no adapters are found. is there something fancy we need to do to use onboard chips
haOS in a container on proxmox
Are you sure?
What doeslsusb -vtsay?
Hi all, I just received a Moes smark knob TS004F (zigbee) but when pairing to z2m it says the device is unsupported. Is there a way to make it work or did I buy a paperweight?
and this page seems to imply it Just Works(tm): https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/ERS-10TZBVK-AA.html
Integrate your TuYa ERS-10TZBVK-AA via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
and I can see it here: https://github.com/Koenkk/zigbee-herdsman-converters/blob/master/src/devices/tuya.ts#L4606C111-L4606C127
#zigbee-archived can help there
are you guys aware of some large digital calendar like screen which would work with ha?
Hello, I currently have my pergola setup that opens and closes at the roof like in the image and I want to make it smart and control the open and close like the shutters. Can I do it with a Shelly Plus 2PM (https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-plus-2pm) and if so how is the connectivity gonna be?
Shelly Plus 2PM is a small form factor 2-channel smart switch with power measurement and cover control, which allows remote control of electric appliances through a mobile phone, tablet, PC, or home automation system. It can work standalone in a local Wi-Fi network or it can also be operated through cloud home automation services. Shelly Plus 2P...
Hello, I ordered one of these relay switches to test and see if it would work for me. Can someone help me with the wiring of this 3 way switch here in the US? I didn't want to call an electrician just to test this out. Thanks for the help
I believe in the U.S. that is considered a "three way switch". Funny that EU/UK call it "two way" and in US it is "three way". (And a US 4-way is a UK 3-way) Makes for often confusing searches š
yeah.. my bad. I have been looking for the wiring videos on youtube and have come across UK videos which states 2 way
Looking at what little documentation I could find, I suspect it won't be possible.
The only three way wiring example has S1 connected to the three way input, and S2 connected to the three way output, which doesn't look like how your home is wired.
that traveler wire (red) is just going to the second light switch
Anyone with a v2.5 ratgdo have poor wifi performance? Pings dropping out constantly. I even setup a new access point that is within 5 feet of the ratgdo and faces it directly. Unifi reports it's all fine but pings drop out and i can't connect to it reliably
i created it's own wifi network / ssid so i can steer it to this AP and doesn't seem to help.
OMG I
I'm an idiot, somehow i have an IP address conflict
So... uhhh... why is opnsense assignig it when I have it reserved... oh well, another topic for another discord/fourm. thanks for being my sounding board.
Anyone know if the EISY (Matter, Z-Wave, Zigbee) USB device works with HA?
https://www.universal-devices.com/product/zmatter-usb/
unifi controller added "Lock to AP" a few updates back - i wouldnt suggest adding another SSID that can severely impact performance
@cold moon yeah, I'm not using unifi gateway, but when I was I did use that and it was great. The other ssid was just a troubleshooting step... i jumped ahead, IP address conflict should have been my first but I thought I could trust opnsense. lol
i wouldnt touch this even a little
I already have it so I thought maybe? Looking to move from EISY/IoX to HA in a VMware VM and only have one Z-Wave device and no Zigbee. I have a ton of Insteon devices. and was also thinking about a one of these for the PLM:
https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/lighting-primary-technology-plug-ins/lighting-primary-technology-discussion/insteon-mnsandler/1354729-serial-plm-over-ethernet-yep
I know Mark has mentioned in the past he prefers the serial PLM over USB or the Hub. The PLM handles inbound messages better and can't be screwed up by automatic firmware updates from Insteon. I run Linux HomeSeer in a virtual machine on my Synology NAS. There are no serial ports, so I had been using a Startech USB to serial
I wanted to avoid using a USB device if I can do it without sacrificing reliability. The other option would be migrate the install from the VM to a PC like a NUC.
https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p7-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/ i would suggest one of these for zigbee, a zooz 700 stick for zwave, and no idea on insteon i dont buy proprietary shit (often)
I am running the VM Image of HA on a vSAN flash cluster so performance is pretty good. Do you know if I can get in to the HA OS and map /dev/ttyr00 ?
you passthru the entire device not ttyUSB0 or whatever
those numbers can change so it's not suggested to use ttyusb whatever
I ordered a CC2652 P7 yesterday and am playing with a Host USB passthrough Zigbee until the CC2652 P7 arrives
cool
Where in HA is the Z-Wave you sent screenshot done?
oh to see what home assistant sees?
http://homeassistant.local:8123/config/hardware -> all hardware
scroll down til you find it
this assumes you pass through the device correctly on esxi or proxmox or w/e
For the USB pass (VMware/ESXi) through I have that configured and working, HA saw the device once mapped/connected.
Where can I configure in HA the Moxa NPort 5110A to map to /dev/ttyr00 to the network serial connection?
in the container. my bt adapter is the 1462
I was insinuating that you can't run HAOS in a CT and you must be using a VM. Hmm. I was expecting this to list more info. Can you try running it on the VM directly?
that is directly ssh into the vm
Anyone have a good recommenation for a smart air purifier that hooks in to HA?
Looks like you're in a container. If you use port 22 you're not directly in the host. The real shell looks different. Just use the VNC console
Enter login there to get to the shell. I'm not sure if the lsusb result will be different but let's see
@placid obsidian I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
login drops you right back to cli
Are you sure you used the VNC Console in proxmox? HAOS is not using alpine, containers are.
2023.11.3
Supervisor
2023.11.6
Operating System
11.1
Frontend
20231030.2```
I don't think you can run os in a container at all
but yes it give me the same response with noVNC
I just terminal into an addon so my copy paste works so the alpine bit was likly just the add-on.
I was insinuating that you can't run HAOS in a CT and you must be using a VM
Indeed but you said you run HAOS in a container so I thought you are using HAOS in a VM and just confused it with a container.
I apoligize. i just mispoke in my reply
ill keep plugging at it i don't mean to take your time
If you open the VNC Console you should see a ha > promot. That's the HA CLI. If you enter login there you should get to a # prompt. That's the OS' shell.
yea I did. It is the same lsusb respose without device name just id
worst come to worst ill just buy a external adapter as i have tested those and they passthrough fine. my onboard works with my ubuntu, win vm. so i just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing something simple.
I was afraid of that. I was hoping for a output similar to this (not run in HAOS)
# lsusb -vt
/: Bus 03.Port 1: Dev 1, Class=root_hub, Driver=xhci_hcd/15p, 480M
ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
|__ Port 7: Dev 3, If 0, Class=Vendor Specific Class, Driver=rtl8xxxu, 480M
ID 0bda:8179 Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL8188EUS 802.11n Wireless Network Adapter
but not all of HAOS' commands have the same features as on other OSs. There's ways to get this info via /sys or whatever but I have to check how.
yeah all the other devices have that information populated under system hardware
lsusb through with root is the only reason I know ha can even see if but there is no mention of it under sys -> hardware
its an intel 9260 too so I would think the kernal has the driver
cat /sys/kernel/debug/usb/devices | less via the VNC Console might show something useful. Had to fire up my HAOS VM first.
If it's not listed in the hardware in the GUI it probably won't be here either though.
in didn't think so but im looking
ok we got something to spit out
i passed it through using vendor id. kernal sys log is throwing FW download error recovery failed (-19)
i also get unexpected event for opcode 0x100c
Better share exactly what it says. I can't help you with bluetooth directly as I don't use it in that way but the logs might make others provide some hints.
rfkill might be useful here.
I'm also a bit confused about this
passed through my on board bluetooth adapter.
That shouldn't be a USB device?
i was digging in sys.journal and grep but my smooth brain wasn't getting there as fast as i wanted lol
on board adapters show up as a usb device in proxmox idk about other level 1
Nowadays you use journalctl. I also still like to use dmesg -T | grep term
I just checked. Intel says
System Interface Type Wi-Fi(PCIe), BT(USB)
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/99445/intel-wirelessac-9260/specifications.html
Like I said. I don't have much experience with bluetooth devices. I try to avoid them. There's a #bluetooth-archived channel as well but I feel it's still right here for now.
they use a bunch of govee outdoor lights and the api leaves alot to desired. So i was trying to hock em up with ble so they could access the effects from the dashboard. Personally i agree with you i don't use bluetooth devices lol
Anyone used any hidden door sensors, pref Zigbee? Looking to replace a bunch of these:
https://www.insteon.com/hidden-door-sensor
yeah looks like its detecting just fine just failing to grab the firmware
https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/issues/2142 Yay i found friends lol
you know you can use esp32 bluetooth proxies instead right? they're confirmed faster at this point than native due to linux bt stack slowness or something even with wifi as an interface for the esp32
I was actually loading up one right now lol
cool
So many ways to skin the cat
i just use a couple in cheap 3d printed cases but they sell those cute little m5 atom lite ones
Atom Lite is a compact development board of 24*24mm, with an ESP32-PICO chip that is integrated with Wi-Fi and has 4MB SPI flash memory. It provides more GPIOs for user customization which is very suitable for embedded smart home devices and in making smart toys. It can be used as an IoT controller and node.
I have a box of nodemcu from Ali from my led obsessed days. I have wanted to look at those little atom though they are cute
Thanks for the help guys
What is the ideal switch/dimmer to replace Insteon KPLs in HA https://shop.insteon.com/products/dimmer-keypad-8-button ? Looking for something with buttons to control scenes, devices. Wouldn't mind something with actual buttons or customizable touch screen? I have a number of 2 gang boxes with 2 switches in them. Looking for local control, no cloud dependency. US style switches
Two products in one: 8-button controller and 600-watt dimmer Monitor and control up to 8Ā different devices or groupsĀ of devices Create whole-house lighting scenes in minutes & view the status of any linked device with built-in LEDs Works with Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant for voice control via required Insteo
There really isn't a great replacement for that Insteon keypad, unfortunately. The best alternative depends on what features you care about
you mention a touchscreen, which is a completely different solution
this is one for Zwave: https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen32-scene-controller/
I tried the zoo ones in ISY and they don't really work as designed, do they work with HA?
you'd have to specify the issues
they're scene controllers, so I'm sure they work
ISY ZWave support was garbage, as far as I could tell. it's one of the reasons I dropped it and moved to HA
I am fine keeping my KPLs the scenes I have configured just don't work well with HA or at least working with my Insteon stuff still on the ISY and running through the Universal Devices ISY/IoX integration
they mention HA on their FAQ page:
How do I program scenes, automations, or direct associations with the ZEN32?
How to Program Your ZEN32 Scene Controller on SmartThings
How to Program Your ZEN32 Scene Controller on Hubitat
How to Program Your ZEN32 Scene Controller on Home Assistant
Like my fan scenes all show on for each speed, like HA doesn't understand the ISY scene
The Zoo switches in ISY didn't update the scenes with convoluted programs to query the Zoo switch
I reiterate my comment about Zwave support on the ISY
it was...not good
and completely opaque to users, so if it doesn't work, good luck
I would call it š© tbh
Is there a way for HA to read ISY scenes correctly, or maybe better put, read them the same as ISY.
Like when I turn on the scene fan low, in ISY it turns off scenes Off, med, high
I suggest moving that to #integrations-archived
in HA it turns all all of the scenes
I didn't have a use case like that
Back to the switch question and the KPLs am I better off just installing a smart dimmer and running a tablet type device above the main switch/dimmer locations?
The brillant switches are cool but don't want to be in they closed ecosystem. I played with the NSPanel Pro but the flashing failed with a storage full issue and I gave up. I might try to go that route once the management integration goes public.
they really are not cool
i was just in a multi-million dollar house with them all over and they suck and have zero home assistant integration
they certainly dont "feel" premium
the hardware it's self is IMO, it's their ecosys that is š©
then their marketing dept did a good job
cuz irl they are obviously cheaply made
the screen looks fine but.. we dont need screens on each light switch
I am looking for something that can replace my ISY switches and want some number of touch screens or maybe I just so with a touch screen device at eye level above the switches at key locations
android tablets with fully kiosk would be the best bet imo
along with zwave or zigbee smart switches/dimmers
If a product says it's compatible with Alexa and Google Assistant, what are the odds it can talk to HA?
Specifically, I'm looking at a couple of minisplits for garage/shop HVAC.
no relation period
Kinda figured but thought I'd ask.
for minisplits look up "midea" based ones
I'm surprised there's nothing in HACS for the MrCool brand.
is midea a brand or technology or ...?
there are cheap esp you can connect via usb to an internal hidden usb port to control them over wifi with esphome firmware
there are only a handful of different types of ductless mini splits they're all just rebrands with new shrouds for the most part
it's kind of a rabbit hole but there are options
https://github.com/scottyphillips/echonetlite_homeassistant there is also this - referenced here a while back: #hardware-archived message
Awesome! TYVM for the links and info. In the referenced post, it says Make sure it has a MAC-568-IF-E. What is a MAC-568-IF-E and how do I make sure the unit I'm buying has one?
Also, +100 for CloudFree. Their location is close enough to me that it would probably cost less in gas to drive to them & pick it up than it would to pay their small shipping costs! š
lol nice
thoughts or suggestions on this one, @cold moon ?
Mitsubishi MAC-568IF-E WiFi Adaptor connected to the following systems:
then it lists out a bunch of different models
Ah, it that a Mitsubishi (clone) only thing?
it's one alternative to the midea options
I am having some trouble finding a single zwave / zigbee dimmer switch that can also control a fan. I have some pull chain fans with light that use a single switch atm and I want to hook them to home assistant. Anybody has a good recommendation?
Do It All Ā Ā PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Z-Wave Plus DimmerĀ (up toĀ 75 W LEDs and 250 W incandescent) and On/Off Relay in one The first Z-Wave double wall switch! Here are some ideas for how to use it in your smart home. Direct replacement for fan / light combo switches or other double switches in your home NEW 800 chip:Ā Ā more r
up to 3amps on the relay controlling the fan
I saw that one, and I actually have one, but it does not control the fan speed afaik
Yeah, sorry I wasn't that specific. I want to be able to change the brightness of lights and speed of fan. I have seen some wireless ones that seem to do that, but no zwave / zigbee options.
anyone have any success with PoE celing speakers? the only ones i've really seen around are Lithe Audio, but the PoE module they sell is £200 which is absolute price gouging.
could also do a passive speaker with a PoE amp but ive not seen any
I have a sonoff ifan04 on the way to flash to esphome with light and fan speed control but itās Wi-Fi
I'm having trouble connecting to a new Hue tap dial switch. I'm using ZHA, and I'm pressing the setup button on the switch, but ZHA doesn't detect the device and the switch doesn't give me any kind of cue it's doing anything
Jump to #zigbee-archived man
check out inovelli. they have a new canopy zigbee controller coming to market soon that can control fan speed and it'll pair well with one of their zigbee 2-1 switches to control the light
I'll see if any of the canopy controllers work
Any recommendations for candle-shaped (narrow space) E12 bulbs?
Still can't believe how much Hue bulbs are. $50, sheeesh
Looking at these, but it isn't clear to me if they work with HA. Never used Sengled before:
https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-Candelabra-Dimmable-Equivalent-Required/dp/B097D1PNNC
Eh maybe I should just get the zigbee ones:
https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-Candelabra-Changing-Chandelier-Equivalent/dp/B089GVXY7L
Sengled smart bulb works directly with Alexa and Google home to manage your light bulb through voice control. Youāll be able to turn on appliances across the room as your hands are busy with cooking, or shut the bedroom light off without getting up. You can easily adjust the brightness and color ...
That doesn't really look very small, compared to how big I remember typical E12 incandescent bulbs being
To be fair, neither do the Hue bulbs
But compared to say LED E12 filament bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081RCMVZP
freaking giant
I think after you passed through your bt device lsusb shows no bt device. I've the same problem. Before starting HAOS lsusb returns bt device, but after starting HAOS, lsusb returns no bt devices. So I did some trick, and I can use bt device on HAOS now. If you have the same problem like me, let me know. I'll share my trick.
Please do. Why would you ping me and not tell it? š¤Ø
The issue is that lsusb in HAOS is not as verbose and doesn't seem to implement the -vt flags
are you just trying to map a device from proxmox hypervisor into a guest?
or into a proxmox LXC?
or into a docker container in a guest in proxmox?
I'm working on a mmWave comparison Excel spreadsheet. Does anyone have the dimensions for the EP1 and EPL? I found the size of the EP1 PCB but I cannot find their sizes! Thanks!
So what about your trick?
- trun off start at boot option for HAOS
- reboot proxmox
- shell > bluetoothctl
- bluetooth # scan on
then scaniing bt devices
- start HAOS
for me it works..
I tried this several times, and it works well.
lsusb command shows bt devices on both proxmox shell and HA terminal
Hmmm, is there any new informations about adding the Aquara Presence Sensor FP2 to Home Assisstant?
I found some older threads about adding it to Home Kit and adding that to HA works. But Iam not using Home Kit (Iam using Google Assisstant) and Iam wondering, if thats still needed or is there a direct way now? And does it work with adding it to Google Assisstant and adding that to Home Assisstant, too?
you don't need homekit, just the HA integration called Homekit Device
I would just message the YouTuber and ask or ask in his discord
Will do! Thanks!
anybody got any recommendations for hardwired PIR sensors?
Hey foolish question... Since Vera is basically dead (and ezlo seems to be very slow moving), is there a firmware to install Home Assistant on to Vera Edge hardware instead of a pi or one of the yellow or green sets.
none of those are good options honestly
SBCs are getting less and less popular as options for home assistant OS
more just trying to get my vera to actually be useful rather than buying new hardware right now
It is a vera edge
i don't disagree there
well
a cheap NUC with a USB zwave stick will serve you better
if you want a good experience with home assistant you'll want to use not-shit hardware
https://www.amazon.com/Beelink-Lake-N100-Desktop-Computer-Ethernet/dp/B0BYJ9BC15 n100 based mini pcs are popular these days
if you want cheaper, you can buy m910q or similar mini pcs on ebay
it is what it is
I've been running a blue for a year now and it's been good
best i can do is downgrade my vera firmware to one that semi functions
anything other than base processing gets offloaded to my i7 NUC though
so you've not been running Blue really
I'm running blue with zwavejs, zigbee2mqtt
pretty basic setup
I played with frigate for a while but ended up not finding it useful
any good IP camera i can use with home asisstant?
Hi. I am installing a wallbox charger which will have a power balancing regulator on my energy meter -- I think something like a Carlo Gavazzi EM340. As far as I understand this measured the power drawn by my house, and communicates over modbus to the wallbox to get it to reduce the power drawn.
I would like to also get the power meter information into HA. Is this possible? 1) I would need to connect to the meter a second modbus device to read talk to HA and (2) actually read it. The meter is just outside my house, wifi would probably reach, lan is harder. How do I go about this?
first find out what exact meter it uses
if it uses that meter you think it uses
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/how-do-i-get-correct-values-from-carlo-gavazzi-em340-modbus/331909/23
you might be able to connect via usb to modbus adapter but i dont know enough about modbus, specifically how to configure for 3 devices in a network
Anyone have an easy led controller for all this Christmas stuff? They all seem to use 2 pin power adapters. I guess any controller with enough output. Any preferred ones?
Many seem to have 8 modes. Probably all or close to all same Chinese internals
Premade wled will give you a lot of local control options
Yea. I'm trying to be lazy. Wifi is probably better for Christmas since it goes away.
I can turn the Christmas led on and off. But can't change the modes
Needs to take up 30v
I currently have a Telldus Tellstick to control a Zwave device and a 433 device... Telldus sucks badly and decided to screw everyone over that ever used their products... what kind of control device could I get to replace my tellstick to control the 433 and the zwave device?
Zooz 700 or 800 usb dongle and 433 thereās a few options
Bond bridge or Broadcom rf link are popular options
You can also buy a rtl sdr dongle iirc and use a handful of different projects to control it
Hello, is there any alternative to the Sensibo device, or do you recco Sensibo? I need two more for the AC (wall split) so look for affordable ones. Thanks!
Hey guys, I am searching for a doorbell to use, I want to be able to have a camera that i can see in my home assistant and on my echo show, also i want to get notifications both on my phone/home assistant and on my echo show.
What are the best options?
is there any zigbee compatible too?
reolink
no
ok so no zigbee compatible
I've used rfxtrx for a long time with a few home automation server softwares. it has been fairly easy to integrate and has it's own integration for home assistant. http://www.rfxcom.com/epages/78165469.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/78165469/Products/14103
Thank you
Zigbee doesn't have the bandwidth for that kind of stuff. You're going to be using POE or WiFi. Reolink or Amcrest should both work.
yep reolink seems cool!
would it be a bad idea to permanently run HAOS on a 2012 macbook air?
1.8GHz dual-core Intel i5 (Boost to 2.8GHz) & 4GB of 1600MHz DDR3L RAM
Just based on the CPU and Memory hardware this should do if you don't run any resource hungry addons.
Personally I would sell it and buy something else that also likely uses less power.
gotcha. and is that better or worse than an Rpi4 1GB?
i have both laying around so trying to decide
I can't tell you without a CPU model but I'd say yes.
oh i didnt know it had different models one sec
Rpi4 box says quad core broadcom BCM2836 & 1GB RAM
That's weird. The pi 4 doesn't use that CPU: https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/computers/processors.html
I meant the i5 CPU model btw.
thats weird....
There are hundreds of i5 models across the decades
Some are low power, some are high, some are fast, some are slow
i got this pi4 from a friend, i didnt buy it myself
oh it's a model B
yeah the apple site doesn't say which gen the i5 is
one sec lemme find gind it
I'm not sure how the BIOS on apple devices looks but it might tell you the model.
Otherwise just use the OS on it and check that way.
The Apple MacBook Air Mid-2012 has a 3rd generation Intel Core processor, also known as Ivy Bridge
That's not a model number š
ok i think it's a i5-3427U.
ah that's a useful site
so much better performance on the i5 even though it's only dual core
also has moreRAM
i bet it has a way higher TDP htough
but that's fine
Still has 4 threads.
oh you're right i see
Even high TDP CPUs can idle pretty low. This one is a bit older though. Neewer ones are more efficient in that aspect (and in general).
do you think there's any safety risk with the battery and leaving it on 24/7?
that's my only real concern
Nah, no risk there
I've got an ancient i5 laptop that's been running as a home server for about 5 years now
what laptop if you don't mind me asking?
if anything i wonder if i can just take the battery out
though the convenience of magsafe will be a problem if i accidentally disconnect it
Ancient Dell XPS
Almost everything has been moved off to my Ryzen 5 mini PC box, just got one thing to deal with when I can be bothered
what year?
i'm just a stickler for reusing stuff
i hate throwing away hw that still works
2011 or there about
wow nice
Well, it's the second oldest computer, and the lowest spec
The Xeon box is older, but much faster and much more RAM
i also have an htpc which i haven't upgraded in 10y since it still runs, but when i upgrade my personal PC i'll probably upgrade the HTPC with it. and at that point could use the HTPC parts for home assistant....
i know i could run home assistant as a container inside my htpc but i'd rather separate and run HAOS
i was gonna just run it on the rpi4 to see what it's like since i haven't ever used home assistant, but all of a sudden i'm having issues with the rpi4 booting anythign at all so i'm looking at my old macbook air
You could always run HAOS as a VM on the htpc
the htpc is running unraid OS, so it does support VMs, but i worry that setup complexity for the the few addons i want inside home assistant will be a bit beyond my skill if i add another layer of OS (i want to use ATOM echo devices with a manually configured Assist pipeline)
Hello, is there any alternative to the Sensibo device, or do you recco Sensibo? I need two more for the AC (wall split) so look for affordable ones. Thanks!
Seldon2k: Aqara FP2 Auto discovery Issues
Hi Guys, I hope someone can assist me with this problem. I have been searching for solutions but the only ones I have found do not seem to solve my problem.
I am running HA OS in a Hyper-V VM.
I have an Aqara M2 Hub and have installed the Aqara App in Android.
I do NOT have anything apple on the premises.
I have just acquired an Aqara FP2 Presence sensor.
This is a WIFI device and is on my network by DHCP.
I have confirmed with Fing that both HA and the FP2 are on the same subnet. This was the problem for someone else on here.
My HA has always been reluctant to auto detect new additions. In fact I cannot recall that ever working. But I am old and my memory is not the best :-)
I have added the 'HomeKit Device' integration to HA.
When I added the M2 Hub it did NOT auto detect and I had to use the add '+' in the lower right to force the issue it then asked for the Pairing Key from the bottom of the M2 Hub.
After this was entered all went well and all devices on the Hub were exposed to HA!
SUCCESS!
However, after adding the FP2 to the Aqara App on the Tablet I tried all of the usual things including power cycling the FP2 and a Full reboot of HA. Not just cycling the VM.
HA did NOT auto-detect the FP2.
So I again tried to force the issue by adding '+' in the lower RHC.
This presented me with the dialog add ''???-FP2'
Unfortunately after the most recent REBOOT this dialog has now vanished and I cannot list it correctly here.
When it WAS shown to me I proceeded to add the device and it just HUNG while going through the motions of adding the FP2.
This was the point where I was EXPECTING to be asked for the Pairing Key from the FP2.
I have almost zero experience troubleshooting HA issues so please if you are able to help try to include ALL necessary steps and if I have to check Logs, specify which logs if there are more than one.
Thanks in advance for any help that you can give.
I have just gone through the 'experience' of setting up the FP2 in the android app and that was enough for one lifetime. I have mine mounted in a corner and despite what has been said about the dev's allowing you to rotate the room I saw no way of doing this so my room layout looks like something Picasso would have created.
Aqara kit successfully exposed to HA via the M2 Hub include:
Door/Window Sensors
Water Leak Sensors
T1 Pro Cube
M2 Zigbee 3.0 Hub
OK, PLEASE IGNORE I have it working! I removed a couple of things that I am sure are unrelated then rebooted, then power cycled the FP2 and it was Auto-Detected and Requested the Pairing Key!
It is NOW fully integrated.
Admins: Either leave as a cautionary tale or delete as you see fit. š
Hello, looking for some opinions between inovelli and lutron! I am not overly concerned about cost, but rather reliability, features, and perceived delay/lag. Thanks!
has anyone run into a cost effective smart xmas tree light set? i found a few but they seem to be up in the hundreds of dollars
Wled and ws2811 pixels works great
interesting. and you just put some heat shrink tub over the wires?
Over what wires
the white, red and green wires that connect the modules
i guess another option would be to use some green spray paint
and tape the leds
Cost effective they are absolutely not, but I do like the "Twinkly" brand for RGBW string lights.
https://twinkly.com/en-us/products/strings-multicolor-white?variant=42970661355742
Depends how much you value your time vs your money, I guess?
Take decorative lighting to a whole new level with smart LED lights Twinkly Strings. Whether you want flawless party lighting, the right task lighting for working or studying, or are setting up your Christmas and holiday decor, Strings has you covered. Available in multiple lengths and with various numbers of bulbs, th
this looks interesting but im skeptical that it will not have a voltage drop at 5v at 20m
It absolutely would.
Those are cool
You can power inject a couple times and hide the wire in the tree
Ya 12v will be better
@cold moon what controller are you using on those ws2811 pixels? im assuming your using the individual addressable ones
I just made my own in a 3d printed case with an esp32
Iād suggest just buying an athom one
yeah i have made a few esp32 projects in the past. they are great devices but i generally save them for projects that need custom coding
Hey all, I have managed to pair a schlage encode plus via esphome bluetooth proxy, out of the box functionality is limited to "locate" and "lock/unlock". How can I help fill in support for more features? Ideally I could get this thing exposed via homebridge to use apple homekey, even more ideally provisioned on my thread network.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated šāāļø
Any recommendations for trustworthy GU5.3 bulbs that interface easily with HA?
I've only found the really expensive Philips Hue ones, or then some brands that are entirely unfamiliar to me (eWeLink, gledopto) and are only available through aliexpress?
Gledopto are well known and generally well thought of
AliExpress is fine, many of us shop there all the time
Good to hear, thanks! What about ewelink? And are you aware if gledopto require some specific addon/integration?
I think my main concern is that I couldn't find gledopto seller in EU, so taxes are a nuisance š
Gledopto is usually #zigbee-archived
ewelink is Sonoff from memory, and that's probaby better avoided
Sweet, thanks a lot @winged knoll !
Here's where aliexpress loses me; what's the difference between this two?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003390902537.html?pdp_npi=4@dis!EUR!⬠22,82!⬠9,58!!!24.24!10.18!@21038eda17016845801391395edaa6!12000034259580343!sh!FI!104806019!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005979718354.html?mp=1
Different model numbers
Look up what that means on the Gledopto site (or any other)
I can only spot 5W vs 4W, but the 5W is like 20e cheaper?
Alright, thanks, sorry for the beginner questions š
GL-S-014P vs GL-S-004P
Thanks! FWIW (if anyone comes back to this question too š), seems like the main differences are small changes in height, wattage (5W vs 4W), and build material (plastic+aluminum vs aluminum). The 004P also offers a wider beam.
I went with the 004P as that's the one that's sold in other EU shops (though it is out of stock).
Replacing my Fire 10 HD w/ a Tab S7 FE and failed to look for a wall mount prior to purchase. Doesn't look like anyone offers one so I reached out to the seller on Etsy I bought my previous ones from and waiting on response. I'm also thinking it might be time to invest in a 3D printer as I have spent 100's on various 3d printed items on Etsy over the last few years. In the meantime, anyone else use this tablet, have made a wall a mount, know where to get one, etc?
I'm thinking about provisions for "smarts" in a part built renovation + extension. I would like to avoid polluting the RF as much a possible. What are the options regarding hard wired things?
KNX is one of the few options
DIY with esphome or knx is the only thing I can think of
As far as whole home is concerned
For Led lighting specifically you can go full retard with dmx controller and cat6a to every fixture instead of romex
Or just run like 18/3 wire from a few IDF locations or closets to centrally manage like low voltage led strips over DC
"romex"?
Bruh
Are you meaing mains power wire?
romex is a brand btw. it just isn't the hover of vacuum cleaners here, so i just wan't to clarify
Romex is used interchangeably to mean the wires in your walls going back to your breaker
Idk if anyone knows the real name
How can esphome be done as a wired network?
What do you mean
Esp32 dev kit boards can be bought with an Ethernet jack or you buy a hat for them
ah, i see. i was thinking esp8266 which by default is a wifi enabled device
https://www.kincony.com/ this guy makes crazy multi relay boards and has videos showing home assistant controlling them with esphome fw
Supply smart home automation project IoT products. ESP32 relay controller and smart distribution box for home assistant.
Just one option
ATM the thought is cat5 + "romex" to every light switch. But i don't know what system i would put on the ends "esphome"
I donāt like that at all personally
what is you're preferd non-RF solution?
How is this intergrated?
What do you need eth for at light switch locations?
I am thinking (normal mains dpst light switch) + (relay board) wire as 2 way switching in the light switches wall box. Then the relay board is controlled via cat5 (as eth or rs485 or.....) and the board also sense measures bulb current (amps) to inform home-assistant of the light ON-OFF state.
This would mean if the relay was dead the light would work as a normal light.
plus it means it can be a tactile toggle switch input.
Thatās a lot of work
which bit?
Take a look at my prewire guide which may give you some ideas
i forgot you made that thing
lol. I tend to look at it myself when I see people asking about this topic
Itās easy to forget all the possibilities!
Iāll add them when I have a chance
they're recommended across the board on reddit etc
good to know, Iāll add that to my to-do list
a fancy client had one of their fridges it was fuckin nice
I need to change some of the suggestions around involving some hardware also
i dont like your light switches š
(and software too) deepstack is basically gone now
dont people still call compreface deepstack tho
or lump it all together
Yes, but theyāre separate programs
Iām probably going to change it over to CompreFace
and make a note not to use the default model
Ill actually change that right now
easy to edit on mobile
i'd say run 2x cables to each of these
if you're already going hard might as well go a lil bit harder
Thatās why I mentioned the Smurf tube
here i'd mention if you have the $ wifi 6e brings even faster speeds to wireless devices but has an even shorter range than 5ghz
a lot of the smart stuff is zwave?
I like the WiFi 6E suggestion though, when I last edited this 6E was unheard of lmao
Need to change that too
this i just dont love at all
Z-Wave is still pretty good for the most part, especially with the 800LR stuff.
you cannot just block airflow to vents in any ac system you want
Iāve had people voice their concerns to me, they have a special āfeatureā which limits damage to your AC
the motor has to be variable speed and ideally you have like multiple supply boxes that can be split off into zones
i mean it's a physics thing
they can stick their head up a butcher's ass..
wait.. no i mean they can slap a guarantee on a box
To what?
can = can't?
Ideally Iād have multiple protocol options
I plan on doing an overhaul to it soon.
fixed thanks
Iāll look more into the Flair stuff and make a decision whether I should keep it or not
Appreciate the comments though
this i would mention ikea sells rebranded sonos speakers at a discounted price
and they integrate with home assistant via the same exact integration
and also mention that smart home speakers such as google home, homepod minis, and alexas can be used to play media or text to speech
š
I find it funny already how much stuff has changed since the time I last edited this..
Shows how important it is to run that Smurf tubing.. lol
@cold moon Hah, sneaky edit. Was about to say, the Ikea bookshelf is basically a Sonos One SL for 20% off
i do like this as far as like.. pulling hot air out of a closet you put server or network gear in
https://www.casetawireless.com/us/en/products/dimmers-switches do these work if the smarts i broken?
I was looking at the Sonos Oneās on eBay and man they are cheap now
Lutron is bulletproof
Lots of professional AV companies use it
i'd still suggest zooz zwave
despite being expensive itās super reliable
or inovelli blues if he has stupid money
Donāt worry, Iāll include multiple options š
wdym, can the work as a standalone switch?
Yes
Lutron has a POE hub
Well RA3 does
Oh yeah it can but no Smart Control
all of the options there are standalone
so does the bulb get power through it?
and able to be used while being offline from the āhubā
yes
and the relay works as 2-way switching?
I mean, how does the switch and the relay both switch the light power?
the switchās smarts tells the relay to turn on and off
I said if the smarts are not working
I guess Iām confused on what youāre asking.. it works fine without the smarts
so, no it doesn't
The smarts are just an added feature
the bulb gets power through the relay not through the switch?
the relay is inside of the switch?
no it is not
the switch just controls the relay
the switch is inside the module
What āmoduleā?
the "smart switch" module
Iām not sure I guess. I just know it works without internet
and you still have physical control
is it it physical or is it "fly by wire" control?
Iām not sure what āfly by wireā control is
It completely shuts off power to the light / load when you turn it off
both via the physical switch and the smart features
Just like a normal switch..
i mean for his smart switches
Ah, my bad
i wan't physical control i.e. if the firmware decides to stop working because of a bug e.g.if(time:1733333333){planned_obsolescence = TRUE} the occupants will still be able to control the lights.
you can still do that with zwave or zigbee switches or dimmers in most scenarios
you can even bind (zigbee) or direct associate (zwave) smart switches with smart bulbs then they will work even if home assistant is down
or like direct associate a few smoke alarms and water leak sensors to a siren.. all kinds of stuff
Ah, that makes a whole lot more sense
Iām not sure what supports that and what doesnāt
It is sounding like it is going to have to be custom... I'm surprised no-RF and works-if-dead aren't a common requirement.
this isnt really something that happens. ultimately there can be a bug in the firmware that changes how zwave-js controls it or something.. but it these light switches are just a fuckin fancy relay at the end of the day
^ Thatās the likely reason it isnāt advertised and / or known
also relays, break allllll the time
the contacts just wear out
then build a better one
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redundancy is my aim
i hear you
i just think you are focusing on some of the wrong stuff
if you want to limit 2.4ghz stuff (wifi, zigbee, bluetooth, thread, matter, microwaves) i dont blame you
I just want to save the RF for wirless stuff, not suff hard wired to power anyway.
well
zwave is right around 900mhz
so it isnt affected by that interference
nor does it effect others
if affects other 900mhz stuff
no, but i can see their point. I stayed in a dense urban area for a while and it was such a pain to have to put up with all the noise while tinkering with projects like making drone video systems.
i see
well blame everyone for screaming louder i guess
the new mesh shit being deployed to consumers from ISPs is completely shitting on 2.4ghz
and all their neighbors
There is only so much rf spectrum available to us, so i don't want to put a nail in my own foot by filling the house with rf stuff for no reason.
I understand where youāre coming from, Z-Wave is an extremely solid protocol (especially with 800LR series devices) though. I would do RJ45 light switches if I could or some kind of hardwired but itās just not economical honestly in this moment.
The closest thing is Lutron HomeWorks
and that can be 30k+
i dont think this makes sense
the last rj45 part
I wan't to be able to buy a cheap Bluetooth audio receiver and not listen to my lights shouting "I'M STILL OFF, every 900ms" š
not if you are still using romex
I just meant hardwired in general
if cat6a is ran to the switch and the fixture and back to a dmx controller then sure
but that is only high end houses right now i think
Not even really. Itās extremely extremely rare
i've definitely seen custom homebuilders using it
They have products but like I said itās just not economical really compared to typical smart switches and regular romex wiring
why cat6a?
š
cuz future proofing
I suggest unshielded 6A so you can go one step above 6
and it has a higher MHZ typically
allowing for more bandwidth
i doubt you'd want unshielded for shit with data tho
CAT7 and above is just dumb
buried in the walls
you expecting a 10gbps light switch?
Unshielded is fine even when ran along parallel to romex in residential
As long as itās not like 25ft+ it will work fine 99% of the time
fps limitations on rgbw-cct fixtures plus you never know
you telling me you'd try to save what $500 or $1000 on cable when building out and future proofing? i wouldnt
i was thinking about that when i considered can bus š¤£
yeah i had the unfortunate surprise of everything going along romex with unshielded cat6 at my last client
super happy about that
Haha, damn that sucks
and
the ont was on the other side of the wall of the breaker and all the romex homeruns
shocking!
and that's the same wall they ran the drop from the ont to the IDF/closet
it was a shitshow
We built with basically the crappiest builder in America and all of our 14 Ethernet runs in our house worked fine. So I guess thereās that
I assume they go by power many times..
also
I wish we did so much more, I kick myself for that..
they ran coax from the ONT to the IDF instead of ethernet
and were paying for 2.5gbps FTTH with a max of 1gbps from router
lol
ONT? IDF?
We were lucky and got into the process when they started running Smurf tube standard from the outside to the inside wiring enclosure
optical network terminal
takes fiber in from street and gives you ethernet out at home
Houses built 2-3 months before ours had just coax and CAT5e to the outside
no Smurf tube
so we would have been screwed with our AT&T fiber
IDF is just like.. a closet where all the shit centrally comes back to. in this instance it was one of the master bedroom walk in closets
Since they donāt do outdoor ONTs anymore
ONT is usually on the outside of the wall here. Or it is fiber to the router
Nowadays many Fiber ISPs run fiber direct into the router
a couple of years ago (and some ISPs still) ran Ethernet from the router to an outdoor wall mounted ONT
were still on ADSL2
Oh wow, that must be miserable.. haha
nah
the craziest thing that happened at that site will stay with me forever
let me find a couple screenshots so you can picture it
they have a house and a guest house and wanted good internet out there
AT&T did a super jank job of installing our fiber though so thereās that
so i used unifi building bridges to wirelessly beam internet from house to guest house to then hang an AP off of for solid connectivity
during my last day there... frontier guy pulled up and ran a new fiber run to the guest house
ping is better than the "fiber" i was sold, aka not fiber just DOCSIS, the fiber they were offering was just a small part of their DOCSIS on a PON setup š¤£
completely negating the necessity of entire building bridge + switch + AP setup
Interesting the AT&T guy is across the street right now
first time Iāve seen them in months haha
Gotta love companies!
free unifi bridge for you!
nah they are still there
I have a free UniFi switch coming which is nice..
apparently the "guest house internet is a backup"
which they didnt loop their IT guy into
we could've had failover wan at the main house
and still internet at guest house
but noo too dumb
bi-directional wan fail-over sounds complicated to setup
impossible with unifi
without a bunch of fuckery
it was over $5000 in network hardware lol
they wanted wifi 6e and each AP is $300
would be neat tho. essentially redundant internet to both places
well that is what i could've done
the gateway in main house fails over and guest house is none the wiser
I have decided to bit the bullet and get all unifi APs for the assisted roaming. Hopefully it will be the end of clingy APs and bad coverage. I just have to decide which unifi APs to get
i though if you go with one brand the roaming is more seamless
do you want future proofing?
no, but willing to pay to end the earache and get something good
well in instances where you are using something like facetime and a client roams from one AP to another, yes unifi APs and controller supports fast roaming
6ghz, proably not but i won't say no if it is free
and you do understand that 6ghz is not the same as the wifi 6 protocol correct?
i.e. a wifi 6 AP is not a wifi 6ghz AP
a wifi 6E AP has the additional 6ghz radio
it's a $100-$150 price increase depending on Unifi AP choice
per AP*
I don't know. because on the one had hardly any of the devices are wifi 6, on the other and the biggest problem makers are new iphones (wifi 6e)
yea
and i don't use a iphone š
idk about problem makers
Whatās wrong with WiFi 6E on iPhones out of curiosity?
I'm saying 2 iphones would be the only reason to get wifi 6 or 6e APs
yea
Iād hold off until WiFi 7 becomes reasonably priced, and just go WiFi 6 for now
unifi is crazy for wanting $300 for APs
more the old AP's elsewhere.
Probably will be 2-3 years
I think ill do that
depends on the client dude. if he's got fuck you money then it makes sense to just buy the better APs now
Fair enough
like mine did lol
I missed the context so thatās on me
he had to store his lambo SUV in the guest house garage cuz his mclaren and maybach were taking up the main house garage
as one does
Man, I wish I had that money.. š
Please donāt tell me youāre a horizontal wall plate screw guy š¤£
i'm a whatever way doesnt break the wall plate guy
pretty clean install tho imo
Yeah definitely
I wanna try out the new UniFi Express/UXG Lite.. seems like a great option for family
Now all we need is a UniFi express 6E š
i got their rack to use but then realized they fucked me on the length of cable coming out the wall
i had to buy a vertical rack and mount it in an ugly place
what does that do?
that looks better than what i did but i wasnt getting paid to make it pretty
i told the guy i could come back and clean up other people's work after tho
Itās basically a UniFi gateway / AP (express case) but in Eero form factor
And they donāt obviously do the gross practices Amazon/Eero does š
I wish my uncle on one side didnāt buy into Eero with 7 of them