hardware-archived

[cold moon]

and 800 controller currently has no support for nvm backup restore (how you backup the stick itself with all the nodes info etc)

[sudden narwhal]

ah

[cold moon]

and

700 series technically supports long range, as 800 does, once firmware is > 7.17.x or something

however, zwave js does not currently support zwave long range

i'd expect it to be months away if not a year or more

and security options are the same for 700 and 800 as far as i know

[sudden narwhal]

I was reading some article that the 800 had more options

doesnt mean its a well researched article

[cold moon]

there's so much bullshit on youtube and whatever else man

[sudden narwhal]

This is what I read
Both the the Z-Wave 700 and Z-Wave 800 series feature the standard S2 security capabilities. However, the 800 series and Silicon Labs’ ZG23 and ZGM230S hardware also support a broad range of Secure Vault™ features such as secure boot, secure key management, anti-tamper, differential power analysis (DPA), secure debug, and more.

[cold moon]

this discord server is unique in the sense that we have direct access to a lot of the developers

the hardware might technically support it but that doesnt mean it's all working with zwave js

[sudden narwhal]

yeah fair enough

[cold moon]

i havent heard anything about DPA or anti tamper or secure boot

[sudden narwhal]

Probably just gonna get the 700 because I dont see any legit 800 listings on canadian amazon

[cold moon]

secure debug

none of that (in this server, from zwave-js maintainer and other users)

[sudden narwhal]

is this a good list?
https://zwave-js.github.io/node-zwave-js/#/getting-started/device-review

[cold moon]

yes and no

yes cuz al calzone wrote it

no cuz he says kwikset is bad but we all suggest kwikset locks in #zwave-archived

for every other manufacturer i'd follow it

and i'm sure al is right

but the kwikset locks have been good to us compared to schlage, yale, august, etc

doesnt mean kwikset doesnt suck about fw updates or w/e

https://www.kwikset.com/smartkey-security

another reason kwikset is nice^

[cold moon]

btw your linked spotify doxxes your full name - not sure if you're okay with that lol

[sudden narwhal]

Yeah I know 😛

[dense sparrow]

433 Mhz with rolling codes ?

I have a 433 Mhz "Brennstuhl RCR CE1 CR" power plug, which seems to have some kind of rolling code system. System needs to be paired first (power plug must be switched to learning mode, then any button on the remote must be pressed).
My sniffer software identifies this as "Princeton 24bit" (when I press a button on the remote).

Any idea if this can be implemented in HA in any way? I am currently running OpenMQTTGateway on a NodeMCU, which can control my other power plugs (which do not have changing codes).

[thick bay]

Is it possible to buy for instance, a Danfoss Ally smart thermostat, but without danfoss's proprietary hub and room sensor, and simple just with HA set the Danfoss ally to use another temperature sensor that i buy and install in HA?

ie. mix arbitrary smart thermostat (just the thermostat not the "kit" that most of them can be bought as) with arbitrary temperaure sensor.

[thick bay]

Having become a little more knowledgeable in the meantime i am talking about TRV's.

[karmic cargo]

Just for fun, one of my Shelly 1s that had been non-responsive for the last several days decided to start working again this morning. Benign neglect FTW!

The other one, that I've tried to reset a couple of times, is still ignoring me.

Also, decided to pull the trigger on one of those Apollo presence detectors yesterday. Checks mailbox every 5 minutes

[tame magnet]

so I’ve been trying to standardize on Matter for everything new I buy… but man, the price point of a Sonoff S31 + Tasmota is hard to beat

[zealous dune]

Tasmota does Matter too soooo...

[tame magnet]

only on esp32, not on esp8266 which most of the really cheap plugs are

[cold moon]

sonoff s31 has esp8285 fwiw

no bluetooth

err maybe it's esp01 i forget. in my yaml it shows esp01 but i think it's esp8285

substitutions:
  devicename: blue-printer-plug
  friendly_devicename: "Blue Printer Plug"
  
# Basic Config
esphome:
  name: ${devicename}
  platform: ESP8266
  board: esp01_1m

[tame magnet]

not esp32, anyway 😛

[cold moon]

right

but fuck matter so lol

[tame magnet]

multicontroller support is a huge plus for me

[cold moon]

well fwiw i have 8 of the sonoff s31 flashed to esphome and i'm very happy with them

https://dpaste.org/guoic here's the yaml i use which is basically just what i found on a forum somewhere

[zealous dune]

That's not true, you need an ESP32 as a bridge but can control ESP8266

[bitter zenith]

It looks great! Print some enclosures and post some updated pictures. You saw the MSR-1 and know that we love this design. No wires, just plug and play!

[karmic cargo]

I see loads of people talking about matter. Would someone be so kind as to point me to a primer on it so I know why it matters to me?

[fallow cape]

it's supposed to ease compatbility between different brands of smart home gear - this page has a bit of a primer on it: https://www.theverge.com/23568091/matter-compatible-devices-accessories-apple-amazon-google-samsung

[cold moon]

a better suggestion: scroll up in #thread-archived and #matter-archived then go about your business ignoring their existence for a very, very long time

[karmic cargo]

Ah, yes, I see those now. Sorry, I didn't scroll the channels list down to note them there.

From what I've read so far, it's being pushed by the big 3 in "we want all your data so we can sell it" vendors and I'm not seriously up for that quite yet.

[cold moon]

i wasnt beign snarky i'm pointing out that it's a fuckin shitshow

and most of us are choosing to just stand back and watch that baby burn

[karmic cargo]

no snark presumed. I just didn't see the channels.

[cold moon]

in theory, wow what a cool set of protocols

in practice, holy shit this is half-baked and anti-consumer and broken

and relying on mdns to be perfectly setup at end-users homes

[karmic cargo]

Bascially: https://xkcd.com/927/

xkcd: Standards

Fortunately, the charging one has been solved now that we've all standardized on mini-USB. Or is it micro-USB? Shit.

[cold moon]

they make the usb foundation and their naming schemes look like harvard scholars

[karmic cargo]

LOL

well, I'll continue with a little reading so at least I know what everyone's on about...

And I'll continue to be happy with ZigBee and some WiFi relays.

[gloomy spoke]

Super duper speed USB

[cold moon]

.2

[fallow cape]

.1

[fallow cape]

ultra

[cold moon]

look at that and tell me whoever sat at that table doesnt need to be taken out back and shot

and then usb c with power delivery and expecting users to know which cable and blah blah

it's impressively terrible

[fallow cape]

when I was a little girl usb was 5v and 500ma and that's it

and we liked it that way

now the kids today with their usb super speeds and their power delivery

[cold moon]

i was told girls on the internet dont exist

[fallow cape]

believe whatever you want to, mister hot takes

[karmic cargo]

^ Has had head buried in the sand about evolving standards.
Lifts head out of the sand, looks around...
puts head back in sand where it's safe.

It does, however, appear that Thread will be useful, however it's not particularly widespread yet... (or at least as of that Jul 2022 published article).

[quasi spindle]

Just got Sense installed, hoping its good

[boreal sierra]

was thinking of trying sonos speakers for my home and wanted to hear which would be the best and cheapest speaker to go with? i don't know if they have mic's, but either one with or without is fine.

[cold moon]

i'd probably suggest ikea knockoff sonos to save money

apparently they are the same devices and use the same home assistant integration

[boreal sierra]

oh cool, is there a specific model, or any one of them works?

[cold moon]

no idea

[boreal sierra]

k thanks

[karmic cargo]

This is another interesting step in my Shelly 1 device saga.
Just discovered that I've got another device that I seem to not have configured as an Edge switch (making a 3-way (US) 2-way (RoW)) switch out of it. I can turn it on/off via its control toggle in HA, but the built in web config page won't load - it times out. 😕

[teal stag]

I'd love to be able to use my Google home mini as a satellite speaker. Is this even possible? Could I break into it and install an ESP32 board?

[glacial oracle]

Are they all running up to date firmware

[foggy wasp]

Has anyone figured out how to force tuya devices from using the wan ip to a dhcp lan ip?

[tame magnet]

they've diverged a little more recently, but the first-gen Symfonisk Lamp is the same as a Sonos Play:1, to the extent of even sharing the same FCC ID

[cold moon]

Neat

[full coral]

Hi have you any idea for 3F actor with integration to HA by RJ45 or WiFi?

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/view/eurotrip-excuse-me-miscusi-gif-5758404

[haughty meadow]

It's 11/11 so a lot of good discounts on AliExpress... any pointers for nice wifi door sensors that are compatible with esphome/home assistant?

[zealous dune]

there are none

[bitter zenith]

@clever jay released his mmWave comparison video! Go check it out!
https://youtu.be/Kt1FpRM8R18

[pearl jay]

My DIY version for a location thats hard to get a USB-charger to 😛

I'ts not pretty but it works!

[idle shoal]

Anyone know of a USB modem that can send SMS that's not 2G and is known to work with HA?

Icing on the cake would be as backup to a failed network connection for remote access

[gentle fossil]

gl.inet gl-xe300

don't know what you want to with ha on it but you can put openwrt on it and do everything you want via ssh if you need to

[shut wolf]

Hi I don't know if this is a good topic for my question. I have water floor heating from heat air pumps. I will have two control panels that with actuators to operate the heating sections, one for each floor. On the other hand, I would like to have temperature measurement with the ability to change the temperature in almost every room. And here I am wondering whether to choose LCD panels that typically serve as thermostats and have a sensor. Or use maybe some tablets, or other solutions. For other solutions, I am also thinking about something that will have the functionality of light switches in itself. I would also like it to be affordable and somehow not significantly different from those options with thermostats.

[glacial oracle]

Personally that sounds like solution which gets very unintuitive and expensive / work intensive

[shut wolf]

So according to you, in the long run it will be better to separately push button and separately thermostatic panel?

[glacial oracle]

mostly yes. having hardware controls being the primary way of manipulating stuff is generally much nicer to smartify as they already are in a set and forget kind of operation which do not need explanation
touchscreens are both not inexpensive to acquire and may always consume some not insignificant amount of electricity which shouldnt be needed for most rooms

a major comfort / smartify holdback however is the single floor heating zone

[glossy linden]

can someone help me with this device

i see it on tuya integration but it says unssuported

[shut wolf]

You are right, although here I am thinking of a controller of this type for the system for example. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGJ6vv7 and then I am thinking about two solutions 1. Thermostat panel with room temperature sensor example plus also remote controlled light switch https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzqE8wh
,2 a tablet of some no something of this type https://www.amazon.pl/8-calowy-Tablet-Androida-10-0-Ośmiordzeniowy/dp/B0BBW5Y9D8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=3CVV27XHI1T6Z&keywords=amazon+tablet&qid=1699740110&sprefix=Amazon+ta%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1 and it would serve as a light switch, thermometer and panel to change the temperature.

However, in both solutions, I do not know how long there will be support for these solutions so that it does not turn out in 2-3 years that I have to replace the devices.

Do you have any other idea , which you know from experience is better?

[glacial oracle]

i suppose that anything that works with HA at some point in time, will continue to work indefinetly with some limitations if you choose to not update once stuff would break
for hardware recommendations besides staying away from tuya, blakadder has a blog with plenty tests of sensors, switches and all the cool things you could check out

the tablet way would probably just buying the cheapest with the latest android version and replacing it once it gets unbearable (aliexpress may have a good selection)

[shut wolf]

Could you drop the address, I would love to read his tests. And do you have any recommended stores on AliExpress? I ask because I noticed that for the same thing on the local market at my place they want 2-3 times as much but maybe there is a catch somewhere

[glacial oracle]

https://blakadder.com/ is it
i dont have any personal favourites for stores on aliexpress so far. i tend to just buy what seems reasonable in delivery&price. some zigbee stuff may be a lot cheaper there but that seems valid, especially as most stuff isnt branded

[stable prism]

for hardware recommendations besides staying away from tuya Why staying away from tuya ?

I bought a zigbee gateway and 10 connected socket from them from lidl some months ago because I read it was very good

[glacial oracle]

its an iot platform anyone can buy into. there arent really any reliable quality standards. they tend to be cloud connected at all times and are quite well a hit or miss to make em work in ha

[stable prism]

I had a big 70% discount, so I got all this for less than 100€, and I learned online it was all tuya, and I could hack the gateway to connect it only to my home assistant

But I came here because I think I have an issue with my connected socket, I don't know if it's me being crazy, or the socket switching itself off everytimes

It just happened while I was eating, and when I came back, the ups couldn't power the 3d printer for that much time, so I came to ask for a bit of help, but if it's really a tuya issue, at least, I'll know I'm not crazy ^^ (I'm really sure I didn't switched the socket off while I was eating, I was just eating, and I never touched anything else than my food I swear)

[glacial oracle]

it doesnt surprise me to see that from a tuya product ^^
you should be able to check the logbook (i think) and see if and why ha did something with it

[cold terrace]

extensions that have power filtering can interfere with UPSes

[stable prism]

I just created an automation in ha to auto-power on the socket if it's deconnected for more than 30 seconds, and send a notification on all my devices

I just have in the logbook "Socket PC Switch off"

Then "Socket PC Switch on from service switch : switch on" (and it was from me)

I checked, the entry saying it was switched off appear when I switch it off myself from the button on the socket ...

It's impossible someone pressed that button from where it is, it's innaccessible without moving the furniture

So, it's a socket issue

Thanks a lot

[zealous dune]

use Tuya-Local custom component

[stable prism]

Do you have any idea of a connected socket I can switch on and off, and that report power consumption using zigbee, more reliable than that the one from tuya ?

[zealous dune]

what is reliable?

[stable prism]

Something I can trust ?

Sorry, I'm not sure if my english is good there, I just checked on a dictionary, and it appears to be the correct word ?

I don't want it to switch off with no apparent reason :/

[zealous dune]

All my plugs are reliable like that, Tuya or not

[stable prism]

Arf :/ Guess I'll use ha automation to auto switch them back on when needed then

Do they also swith themselve on too ? Because it could be very dangerous in some situation

[glacial oracle]

they could

you may be able to configure a default state when powered up

in case this is just some power loss issue

[stable prism]

In case of a power loss, it uses the last state

[glossy linden]

Thank you it worked. For the sensor but i can i make it work with IR command

[zealous dune]

not really

[gloomy spoke]

Boo

[vague depot]

Is there someone who knows where to get a passive case for raspberry pi5?
My pi5 is arriving on Monday but I can't find any case for it in stock in shops.

[amber pine]

Are Tuya devices supposed to work without WAN access? (I used LocalTuya integration)

I set up a firewall rule to restrict its WAN access, but now it doesn't appear to work anymore.

I can still ping it, but the lights of the Tuya socket go off.

[glacial oracle]

i think there is a part about this on the guide

[amber pine]

I wasn't sure which guide you meant, so I googled it. I came across this github page, which describes my problem exactly:
https://github.com/rospogrigio/localtuya/issues/1116
(Strange that I didn't find it when googling on pretty much exactly that title...)

[half raptor]

Hey does anyone have suggestions for permanently installed LED lights, like these https://trimlight.com/residential but fully integrated into HA? I’ve been wanting to do this for a while but don’t wanna have to rely on these proprietary systems

[amber pine]

Unfortunately it doesn't appear to do the trick for me 😦

[amber pine]

Ahh, I just read this on Github!
NOTE 2: If you plan to integrate these devices on a network that has internet and blocking their internet access, you must also block DNS requests (to the local DNS server, e.g. 192.168.1.1). If you only block outbound internet, then the device will sit in a zombie state; it will refuse / not respond to any connections with the localkey. Therefore, you must first connect the devices with an active internet connection, grab each device localkey, and implement the block.

[cold moon]

Look into Dr zzs Perma channel and wled and Quindor’s site for diy led strips

Tons of YouTube videos on it

I’d suggest Quindor’s discord and wled as well. Drzzs server also has a channel dedicated to stuff like that

[radiant token]

Hi all, I am considering buying a UDM, but I'm concerned about it not having WiFi6. The reason I do want to buy it is because it supports VLANs.

Does anyone knows a device, for around that budget, that can do both?

[twin acorn]

What smart plug is recommended the most that has power monitoring?

[exotic wraith]

Hi folks, I only have zwave right now, and looking at adding a couple rgb lights for some notifications in the kids rooms (non-primary lights, sconce in each room).

After scrolling for a couple hours, it seems sonoff 3.0 and ikea RGB might be the best way to go.

I want them to:
be repeaters
not die
have good range (1st floor hub to 2nd floor bedrooms)
be able to be dim (i read this is not a strong suit for ikea bulbs)
be reasonable cost (not hue)
not phone home if wifi has better options

not overly concerned with:
color reproduction

any thoughts before i pull the trigger?

[cold moon]

You should not buy a udm over a udmp or udm-se

[cold moon]

Athom wled flashed Wi-Fi bulbs for a couple rooms makes more sense than standing up a zigbee mesh for two bulbs

[exotic wraith]

thanks, i'll look at that. what's the integration for these?

[cold moon]

Wled

[fringe crater]

I've got some decent vlan going with a unifi ER-X router ($60) paired with a unifi wireless AP ($50-$100)
There's some merit to keeping your routers and AP's as separate devices (don't have to replace the whole thing when you want wifi6e or wifi7 or wifi8 or whatever), though configuration might be more complicated.

[exotic wraith]

i appreciate it

[cold moon]

Sonoff s31 Wi-Fi for us based or thirdreality zigbee

[cold moon]

I’d probably suggest the physically large 15W bulbs if you want high brightness @exotic wraith

[exotic wraith]

awesome

[hybrid cradle]

Is it ok to ask for a sanity check on WLED wiring?

[cold moon]

Better in their server but #diy-archived covers that so that’s fine there

Or Quindor’s server which it shows you’re in

[hybrid cradle]

good point. ty

[radiant token]

Thanks for your reply. Part of my motivation is that I found it at a second hand for around 170$ (a new one costs around 420 where I live). Also, the PRO and SE are for racks from what I see online, and the place I want to place it is smaller and does not fit a rack sized unit.

[cold moon]

Make sure it isn’t a beta unit then

There will be a sticker / writing on bottom that says EA for early access

You don’t need to rackmount their rack devices it can be sat on a table or mounted vertically or whatever

The udm is kind of a dead item just technically still sold

[radiant token]

Thanks for the idea, haven't thought of that combination.

[cold moon]

The udr replaces it with Wi-Fi 6 and 2x PoE ports and protect access via sd card slot

It’s just not a product I’d buy or suggest

Also iirc udr or udm cant even do GbE with IPS or IDS turned on

[gentle fossil]

Just get any glinet or tplink

Flash them with openwrt

They all do vlans

[fringe crater]

Only problem with the ER-X is while it's made by Unifi it's not really part of the same controller ecosystem, so you don't get the entire network on a nice single pane management.
I have one web interface for the main router, and a separate Unifi Controller web interface for the wifi APs. But I rarely ever need to touch that stuff so it's not a big deal, just a minor annoyance.

but it's extremely capable for the low price.

[radiant token]

Trying to avoid that, in case I do something wrong

[cold moon]

That’s not the only problem it’s also gbe only with no IPS or IDS (erx)

[radiant token]

Another question if a flashing solution already came up - if I flash my current Xiaomi Redmi AX6, which is not VLAN capable, with openwrt for example, can it do VLAN? Or is it a hardware thing?

[gentle fossil]

anything openwrt does vlan

aps shouldn't do IPS/IDS anyway imo

thats why you put opnsense in front

there's always a failsafe boot procedure for openwrt routers, else you can also flash them with tftp pretty much all the time

of course if you want to spend $$$ go with a finished system

[radiant token]

Thanks guys for the feedback, helped me understand I don't want the UDM 😁

[cold moon]

it's fine and also shit. if you have money to spend and want simplicity buy a bunch of unifi gear. if not, do whatever you want hodge podging stuff together like above

[runic karma]

hey yo o/
Any recommendations for cheap inhouse cameras? wifi, powered by usb-c or so, open regarding video-stream, stream can be sent to some NAS, optionally they have a sd-card for when the NAS is not responding, they have nightvision (infrared) and workd with HA?

@cold moon ._.

[cold moon]

wifi cam = bad, indoor cam = sad

lol

[runic karma]

y that?

[finite dawn]

hello, I'll appreciate litle help with esp32. I have installed esphome firmware and connected to network, and try to connect it to HA. I have installed esphome dashboard, device is recognised, but I don't know how to read sensors or do some switch actions

for example, wifi signal strenght, https://esphome.io/components/sensor/wifi_signal I don't know where to put that example configuration, to HA ? How does HA know that I want to read signal from ESP ?

[cold moon]

No that goes in the esphome yaml for that device then you recompile and update OTA or serial or whatever

Then that entity will show up for the device in home assistant

[finite dawn]

and please, where to put secrets file ?

[cold moon]

ESPHome supports (most of) Home Assistant’s YAML configuration directives like !include and !secret. So you can store all your secret WiFi passwords and so on in a file called secrets.yaml within the directory where the configuration file is.

[finite dawn]

ok, thanks

[cold moon]

https://esphome.io/guides/faq.html very first paragraph

/message Esphome

[outer knot]

ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.

You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.

[finite dawn]

any schematic how to hardware connect devices to pin ? do I have to use some relay or transistors for reading if pin is shorted (switch button) or directly connect it to gpio ?

[winged knoll]

Connect them to what?

Pi? ESP? Something else?

[vivid wave]

Hi, I can’t find a sensor to measure the surface temperature of a wall. I’m looking for a device wich measures constantly the temperature same like common room temperature sensors.

[finite dawn]

I want from HA control my old garage door. So one one pin I want to connect garage controller, and on second pin I want to read switch status (it is switch on the end, if garege is opened to full it is pressed/shorted )

[winged knoll]

You want an ESP for that, and #diy-archived can help there

[finite dawn]

yes I have ESP, just connected it today : -) , thx

[cold moon]

first of all:

https://tenor.com/bU6By.gif

[spiral sedge]

does anyone have experience with this UPS hat:
https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/UPS_HAT_(B)

i'm using it on my RPi 3B+ and i'm getting power status problems

[ornate ledge]

my ecobees are kind of getting long in the tooth. If I wanted to replace them with someone 100% local, no cloud that was well supported in home assistant what do you guys recomment? I'd prefer something with wifi but might have zwave/zigbee/thread capability later. Ideally understated, fairly thin to the wall....

[languid fulcrum]

has anyone tinkered with e-ink displays?

I want to use Alarmo and some method of zigbee-e-ink to get indicators at doorways when something is armed.

that way i' am not reliant on an led indicator or something i would need to change power out of frequently

[north elk]

i have a small 10" fan that i use at night, currently it's on a smart switch but i still have to manually adjust for speed.. is there anything that works similar to a smart switch with ceiling fan that i could add to this and control the speed of my small fan? or would this have to be a custom build?

[bright swallow]

I've played with the m5 coreink (working) and tried to get the ink plate (not working - boot loops) running on ESPHome

[jagged crypt]

been a thread on reddit about reflashing the small eink price tag units, and a controller and interfacing to HA

[dusty sparrow]

Best rgb outdoor spotlight?🤗🤪

[hard tinsel]

Are there any washing machines that are local IoT class and integrate well with home assistant, giving me features like time remaining, remote start, etc?

[cold moon]

What’s wrong with the ecobees now? You can also pair them fully locally over Wi-Fi using HomeKit protocol

[stuck warren]

My old FireHD just fully died, any recommendations for something cheap to be used as a control central?

[shut wolf]

How long he live ? I ask because I'm thinking about a tablet as a control center Vs control center panel.

[drifting grove]

Turn off blue LED on d1 mini

[stuck warren]

I bought it used, so I do not know the full age, but I used it for over 2 years nonstop now. It had battery problems tho and turned off as soon as the charging cable was removed. After a poweroutage a few weeks ago it fully died now.

[empty wadi]

Can I ask as stupid question.

Looking up thermostat switch and looking for an easy swap in out

Came across this, which seems like it should work

However, my current switch is this. Main thing I'm a little lost on is the switch cable in my current setup uses a bridged 'live' whereas this seems to use 'neutral'.

This the wiring at the box rather than the thermostat. It's a 'switch live', does that mean I can't use this thermostat?

[novel arch]

@zealous dune have you done testing on any of the temp/humidity sensors for accuracy?

[zealous dune]

i dont have a lab for that

[novel arch]

wen lab for that?

jk

been following your tweet stream and saw some of the flashable bt temp/humidity things

[novel arch]

@zealous dune do you know if any of these devices use standard rechargable batteries like AAA or AA?

[zealous dune]

most don't fare well with recharchable batteries due to lower initial voltage

[novel arch]

found another cheaper seller of the second one you posted: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804951632340.html

[silk basin]

I must not be searching with the right terms, I can't find any frame mounted automation latch for patio sliding door. anybody out there have one, pls send link or searchable name. I want something I can power through not batteries, so a door lock isn't feasible.

[dense widget]

I am looking for and ESP sensor that will trigger when I swipe my hand below it, turning light on or off. I am not sure what type of sensor that would be, but I´m not looking for a PIR. Suggestions from AliExpress?

[trim jay]

How are my chances to use something like this with an alternate controller/firmware? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004838026199.html

[jagged crypt]

was going to ask the same thing, it's a thermostat what new features do you want. Tangengtly homekit integration requires apple infrastructure of some sort, right?

[gentle fossil]

only for some devices I believe, if they are pairable from the start with the integration none else is needed. some others need to be paired to ios, then removed (still being in the paired state to get picked up by the integration)

[jagged crypt]

ahh, using this - https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit_controller/ - i assume

[silk basin]

I'm not sure what mechanical specs you wish for, but two likely methods: https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Capacitive-Bistable-Electronic-Control/dp/B09FHFJK4Q or https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-LJC18A3-H-Z-measuring-Capacitance-NO（Normally/dp/B0746GVMYW. The latter is a bit more reliable and won't be tricked by a large spider, but it's more bulky to set up.

[ornate ledge]

They are from 2015ish and starting to get unreliable. It's just time to replace them. I have them paired over homekit now.

[jagged crypt]

how are they getting unreliable? As I just bought a house that had an ecobee installed (and came from a rental unit where i installed a nest).

[ornate ledge]

wifi getting a bit unreliable, screen issues on one of them with the touch. I could make themw ork for years still in this state but since they are getting a bit messed up I figured I would try and find something better, less conspicuous for the wall, since all the brains should be in home assistant

[steep monolith]

Anyone use an iPad for HA?

I’ve had an old gen 1 air hanging on my wall for a few years

Last week I noticed the battery swelling

[ornate ledge]

it's a good idea to retire spicy ipads...

[steep monolith]

Is it possible to run it without batteries?

[ornate ledge]

or at least find someone to replace the battery

[steep monolith]

It’s mounted to the wall all the time anyways, wondering if it it’s possible to just run it after taking out the battery

It’s only $40 for a replacement off Amazon… but still $40 lol

[ornate ledge]

I bet it either doesn't work, or it works fora bit and then eats it mysteriously.

I don't know for sure though

[steep monolith]

Guess I’ll find out this weekend when I try prying the glue off with a hairdryer

[ornate ledge]

it's 10 years old.... time to find a cheap android tablet that can run cyanogenmod?

[steep monolith]

That’s my thought as well, but the mount it’s on was so nice

[ornate ledge]

sorry, lineageos

[steep monolith]

Got it from a place I worked at that used them for wall kiosks

It was pretty slow, couldn’t really put cooler stuff on it

Maybe it goes in the kitchen instead..

[ornate ledge]

I still have amazon branded ones that I refuse to put up that I bought on black friday a couple years ago because I thought I could repalce teh firmware but the things updated immediately and nowit's not hackable

[steep monolith]

Those fire tablets?

[ornate ledge]

yah

[steep monolith]

Damn, Amazon’s way of making sure we can utilize cheap tablets 😦

We can’t *

[ornate ledge]

I refuse to have anything connected to amazon in my house with a camera or mic after I was snooping my echo and saw way, way too much traffic back to amazon.

[steep monolith]

Firewall it off, and only allow it access directly to HA ?

That’s what I do for cheap Chinese stuff

[ornate ledge]

last thing left is the doorbell outside and my wife's firestick, just because jellyfin linux client isnt' as nice as the android client and I haven't hit anything that works that has android and can run lineageos (it's mostly hacky chinesium at the price point I am looking)

better just to not have it at all imo...

[steep monolith]

True haha

But I’m a sucker for cheap gadgets if they work

[ornate ledge]

I will probalby redo my switches when I build a new garage and then be more interested in home automation again because all my switches will work.

[steep monolith]

Hmm how’s jellyfin these days? Tried it a year ago side by side with plex, but it just wasnt polished enough

Also didn’t work on Apple TV

[ornate ledge]

It's not as good but it's good enough. I don't have any apple products inmy house either...

jelly server is running on a vm in proxmox with an intel gpu fed through to it for transcoding (works great)

clients are where the problems are but they are mostly minor. Jellyfinmediaplayer has gotten good enough to replace the android client but it's still got the annoying lack of setting default filters.

Like I don't get how we can be four or five years into this project and there's still no way to tell it "don't show shows/movies I've watched as the default setting, sort based on latest downloaded episode/latest downloaded movie

Those are my two big annoyances. the n100 intel cheap boxes make it reasonable to get x86-64 so it all works fine on that on the client, but the arm stuff still has a way to go.

it doesn't send all your watching habits off your network to plex to be sold on to marketers and who knows what, so that's a big win.

[steep monolith]

Yeah that’s fair, I’m an Apple household because I find the UI more intuitive for guests to use

Never really get asked how to do things by the wife.. that alone makes it worth the cost difference haha

[ornate ledge]

wife runs windows, I run cachyos with hyprland and throw zfs everywhere I can, lol

my jellyfin settop box was surprisingly easy to setup in that configuration too

there was a brief period of time where apple laptop pricing was competitive and I was tempted. They do do nice hardware

[steep monolith]

That’s the first time I’ve heard of that distro lol , I used arch for nearly a decade before switching to Fedora and just stuck with it

Been with Debian on my servers forever

[ornate ledge]

I can't stand the ui though. It's great if you can get used to the one or very few ways they think you should do something. If you want to do it a bit different, good luck and I always seemed to want to do it different..

[steep monolith]

Yeah, with apple stuff if I go with their flow, it all works out

[ornate ledge]

it's yet another arch. easy install with systemd boot and encrypted zfs, plus the aur is super useful.

at this point I need a tiling window manager, it amkes me so dramatically more efficient.. I am not sure we should be talking about all this in #hardware-archived though...

[steep monolith]

Maybe take this to offtopic? Lol

[ornate ledge]

was just going to suggest taht.

[empty whale]

Hi. If anyone here is very satisfied with a Zigbee Water (Leak) Sensor that they're using, I'd love to hear about it. I've tried to Aqara Sensors, and they've proven most unreliable, even with a router right next to them (<1.5m/5ft). Preferably, one that either does not have an audible siren, or one that can be disabled. Location: EU. Thanks in advance.

[winged knoll]

No issues with Aqara here, though I'm going to buy some of the new T1 version to test out - you did pair them to a nearby router rather than letting them pick their parent?

[empty whale]

Yes, I specifically paired them to the close router. I feel like the community is very split on Aqara devices; they work flawlessly for some, and others have nothing but problems with them. Very odd.

[winged knoll]

There's a pin in #zigbee-archived about them - it's known that they can be fussy about their routers since (like most Zigbee devices) they're not 100% compliant with the specs

I use Innr, Tradfri, and Gledopto routers, zero problems other than when the battery is low (even if it still reports otherwise)

[gentle fossil]

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61cDTExWaQL.jpg
what is NC and why shouldn't it be connected?

[winged knoll]

No Clue

[empty whale]

I also use Tradfri routers, and I've replaced the batteries with new ones. I'll look into the pin you mentioned when I have a little bit more time.

[winged knoll]

Interference is the other likely source of problems

[empty whale]

My question still stands for anyone that has any input on alternate devices of course.

That seems like my idea as well, but considering the range and location, and the fact that other battery devices have no problems at all leads me to want to steer away from Aqara.

[glacial oracle]

big ic connector does not want us to know

[winged knoll]

I have some Tuya ones, but they eat batteries so I stopped using them. The only (other) good ones I've heard of are Linkind and 3Reality - but both have buzzers

[empty whale]

Yeah, I've specifically heard of Third Reality as another (good) option as well; I'll check out Linkind as well, thank you. And thank you for your input thus far.

Excellent, it seems like it's possible to disable the siren on the Linkind, I'll look into that one some more.

I know that's not possible on the Third Reality model.

[gentle fossil]

found something, https://en.wikichip.org/wiki/not_connected_pin
weird industry

[terse pebble]

Is that a relais?
In that case NC means "normally closed" and NO means "normally open"

[gentle fossil]

no its a transformer

[terse pebble]

In that case I didn't say anything

[sudden minnow]

Can you help me? I'm looking at a few TRVs/radiator thermostats to use with Home Assistant. I'd prefer them not to be too big, since one of them is right next to a door opening. I've looked at Tado, which looks great, but you have to pay 200 DKK a year for some features. I wonder if I could create a flow in Home Assistant that would do the same thing without paying. Otherwise, there's Aqara, which also looks great, but I'm not sure if I'm missing out on any functionality. It's also cheaper.

[winged knoll]

but I'm not sure if I'm missing out on any functionality
Such as?

[sudden minnow]

not sure have only seen videos of both thats why im asking here 🙂

[winged knoll]

Well, if you don't know what you think you're going to be missing out on... how can we answer that?

[sudden minnow]

tado seems to be more intellegent but need subscribiton for the advanced stuff

[winged knoll]

All I want from a TRV is for HA to be able to control it... HA is the "intelligence"

[sudden minnow]

is ther any integration like close valve when windows open in home assistant

[winged knoll]

That'd be an automation

Send a notification reminding somebody to close the window, and if it's still open 5 minutes later close the valve until the window is closed (for example)

[sudden minnow]

yea, could be cool if there was a hacs integration with all the most needed stuff 🙂

[winged knoll]

There isn't likely to ever be one, since that's more automation/blueprint territory

[pastel bough]

Hi everyone, I'm new at this so my apologies if this has been covered before.
At our home we have something called "district/city heating". Basically hot water is being pumped into houses from a central heating station in the city. Our current thermostat (https://shop.kamerthermostaat.com/p/honeywell-chonotherm-4) controls the flow of water into the house with a valve (https://www.technim.nl/installatiemateriaal/cv-aansluitmateriaal/zoneregeling-zoneklep/honeywell-vc8615ag1100-zoneregeling). I believe it just turns off/on, and does no flow control.

I'd like to replace the current thermostat with one I can control with Home Assistant. I would also like to add some radiator thermostats to control temperature in each room, as the current setup does not allow that to happen. I would also like to be able to control each room thermostat from the central thermostat, setup rooms and all that stuff.

and I would like everything to be local only, nothing on cloud.

What would you recommend for these requirements?

[gentle fossil]

you must have further valves for each room

[pastel bough]

I have radiators in each room, I imagined I would use a product like this; https://www.coolblue.nl/en/product/817956/tado-smart-radiator-thermostat-4-pack-expansion.html

[gentle fossil]

then get these, control them via ha

(no idea if these are good though)

[pastel bough]

I believe they require cloud connection

[gentle fossil]

thats bad

[autumn marsh]

Hey everyone! I'm lookin for a solution to making a classic room thermostat wireless -> connected using zigbee or matter. Can this be achieved using two zbmini-s for example. I didnt find any reliable tutorial for such cases. Full autonomous operation would be most ideal ... thus it would only be a question of binding a zigbee switch together with a zigbee relay output. Is this possible?

[pastel bough]

Does anyone know if Eve products work in local only mode?

[winged knoll]

Their #matter-archived stuff does

[pastel bough]

I see, their thermostats don't seem to have thread/matter support

do we have a hardware list somewhere, where I can see thread & matter enabled devices

[winged knoll]

No

(well, yes, it's called a search engine, but HA doesn't have one)

[pastel bough]

I thought maybe the community would have one, not HA specifically

I'm searching for "thread & matter enabled radiator thermostats" and google is not being helpful. First result is the eve thermostat, which is not thread enabled

[zealous dune]

https://www.matterdatabase.com/

[pastel bough]

ah, there it is, thank you!

uh, eve thermo is the only device in there, thats surprising

[zealous dune]

or the official certified list: https://twtr.to/YEmpQ

[winged knoll]

Keep in mind that Matter and Thread are still pretty damn new, it's no shock that device support is minimal - and that said support can be an absolute clusterfuck

Lurk in #matter-archived and #thread-archived and you'll cry

[zealous dune]

i dont even think there's thermostat support in the spec yet

[winged knoll]

And the "standards" leave out some pretty key stuff that's helped make Thread a mess

[zealous dune]

stick with zigbee, it works and works better

[winged knoll]

Come back to Matter and Thread in 2025, maybe

[pastel bough]

I see, thank you. I'll keep that in mind

I guess I just need to pick a thermostat for now, and without obssessing with lcoal only or thread/matter. I'm just getting started after all and I thought climate control would be a good place to start

[winged knoll]

Zigbee works now 😉

[pastel bough]

Do you have any particular suggestions that work with Zigbee?

[winged knoll]

I've got the Aqara E1 TRV, seems to work well

(but it's only been in for a few days)

[pastel bough]

I'll take a look at that, thanks

[hard tinsel]

on TRVs, I have a house decked out with Eurotronic Spirit Zigbee TRVs and they are pretty nice too, in case you want an alternative.

[pastel bough]

What is a TRV?

Ah radiator valve

Got it

[hard tinsel]

thermostatic radiator valve

[pastel bough]

Thanks

[rose musk]

Hi guys, I've just bought a cnick ring (to unlock my car and pay via contactless)
I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions of door locks & home security systems that might be compatible with it?
I tried my current security system and it wouldn't read the tag

Also any other automations/suggestions? I'm going all in on the nfc ring future 😄

[silk basin]

Does anybody use automation for a patio sliding door lock? Please enlighten me on what you use, i can't find anything feasible, i have half a mind to design and build my own.

[devout parrot]

You might have to build your own.

Maybe with some kind of mag lock hardware and an esp32 relay board.

[jagged crypt]

amazon search - https://www.amazon.com/sliding-door-smart-lock/s?k=sliding+door+smart+lock

not seeing a lot jump out as HA capable 🙂

[silk basin]

That would leave my home vulnerable when power goes out, or if somebody flips the breakers. I live in San Diego, where the breaker boxes are outside facing so anybody can break in at will with mag locks.

[jagged crypt]

maybe a different solution would be to alarm/notify if your normal doors are all locked, but detect if your sliding door isn't?

[silk basin]

That's a good last resort option. Probably too expensive to design my own anyway. My hope was for something that isn't reliant on a third party internet location, isn't monitored by a third party internet location, and doesn't run out of batteries while i'm out on vacation. I may have to forfeit the batteries-free desire if i can't find a mechanism that works on the door frame side.

[silk basin]

Looking a little further at those search results, i'm not sure they're great options now. Pulling open or closed a very heavy glass door using a thin rotating door-lever seems like a good way to mess up the door lever mechanism quickly, and at $300+ each that will be a frequent expensive replacement. The other options appear to latch without any quick manual override capability in the event of trying to escape a fire from spilled oil that is quickly flowing toward you. I'm still looking for better options, if anybody has any. Designing my own is easy, but not affordable unless i can make them in the hundreds. I need just one or two. 😦

[jagged crypt]

are you automating the lock or the door?

[silk basin]

I wish to automate the lock, but I would prefer to hardwire the power, so doing it on the frame would be optimal. anyway the Amazon hits that best addressed the need were either more expensive than I could build myself (incredibly) or they did something stupid like screws on the outside or batteries compartment on the outside. if it could be powered by my phone's qi charger it wouldn't bother me, but batteries access to outside just comes across as poor engineering. is there enough interest out there to make it financially feasible to design my own?

[jagged crypt]

you are just trying to make sure they are locked, right?

smart deadbolts don't open/close the door. I understand that rotating locks on sliding glass doors may have to tighten down differently. This being what you are dealing with as a problem?

sounds like a lever that lowers a stick into the track may be far simpler 🙂

[silk basin]

I wish to lock it unlock by automation or by remote, or at least engage or disengage the locking mechanism (probably best). I also feel strongly that it should not be visible to our controlled by another party unknown to me somewhere on the Internet outside my control. I also need it to be sturdy and not break or get stressed by a heavy sliding door.

[silk basin]

I could hinge something into the track, from above so it won't be stepped on or affected by random pebble, but I'll have to figure out a way to make it respond to locking or unlocking the door so it doesn't require more that one motion to get out in an emergency. this discussion is probably better in diy though. here I'm just hoping to find something already commercialized

[jagged crypt]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-Diecast-Aluminum-Keyed-Step-On-Sliding-Patio-Door-Lock-U-9882/100129366 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gW8JDHbIuwA keyed lock, that has a foot pedal to disable. Pulls a deadbolt up from the track floor, using the track as a stopper. Now you have a key you can turn with a switchbot maybe....

multiple options available to automate

but effetively mounting a deadbolt on the outside of the sliding door part.

hadn't seen those before

[karmic cargo]

Not just San Diego. Anyone building/upgrading with NEC 2020 requires it. You can put a lock on the panel - the fire department carries a universal key: https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/63fade4a-0f07-449c-a354-49b9ab0782cc/svn/milwaukee-bolt-cutters-48-22-4024-64_300.jpg

[silk basin]

i didn't realize that was universal... makes as much sense as leaving a car license registration card in your car with your address on it .. so the thief can more quickly find the garage door that gets opened when that button gets pressed.

[silk basin]

sigh. I miss the more complete locks we had in Europe, all the mechanisms were rigged together. I guess this discussion should logically move to the dyi channel.

[karmic cargo]

I'm willing to bet that most car thieves are after the car and/or contents, not your household goods. Though, they might sell the GDO to a house burglar friend... 🙂

not helpful?

[silk basin]

Is that some union rule? are they unionized?

[karmic cargo]

LOL! Union, probably not. Well... maybe. Do you consider mafia "union"? 😄

[pallid brook]

ratgdo question, what should i set as my mqtt topic prefix? does it matter for HA if HA prefix is set properly?

[glacial oracle]

I think you just name it after what makes sense

[pallid brook]

thats what i did, not getting anything on mqtt yet tho nothing is plugged in besides power. it is configured tho

[glacial oracle]

You gotta send something to receive something

[pallid brook]

sounds good. im installing tomorrow so that should fix it

[burnt ether]

Hey all,

My house is filled with "dumb" radiatorvalves that are not compatible with smart thermostats because of the wrong valve. (These old keramic ones)

Are there any smart thermostats the allow me to controle the valve remotely? Something with a motor to shut or open the valve?

[winged knoll]

Oh... change the valves 😛

(you can't remotely control a dumb valve)

[burnt ether]

Yea... I was hoping to avoid having to empty the entire system to change the valve system.

I've got old-school ceramic valves like these:
https://www.toolstation.nl/radiatorkraan/p13431?channable=04d3d9696400313334333196%3Fstore%3DCR&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC66xmE7DKBbsN0a_nKBAPWlbLZSqxXlW6p8elwy_NIViw_iWmJq_4xoCJgEQAvD_BwE

Aren't there any motors to attach to these valves?

[winged knoll]

Depends on what's under the hood - many smart TRVs have adapters to cover a range of fittings

[steel zealot]

its better to swap them for thermostatic valves, these limit or increase the flow depending on how many turns you give them, but you would still need an other valve to tune your flow, the system would be more efficient if you do it this way, the input temperature and the output temperature should be set according to specification of your radiator for optimal wattage output

[hard tinsel]

For the new year of the voice stuff, is there a nice(-ish?) hardware solution yet? The Atom Echo is cool, but I imagine the speaker and microphones in it probably aren't very good seing how tiny it is. Is there anything out there more similar to an Amazon echo, with higher quality speakers and a nice mems array microphone yet? I have a 3d printer so can DIY if needed

[mystic saddle]

I know this isn't recommended or supported, but has anyone tried installing HA OS onto a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ (1GB RAM)? I'm just curious if it'll even install / work in a bare minimum capcity. Sometimes I like to make the most out of the smallest systems. The setup I envisage wouldn't actually be for running a whole smart-home. Just a remote off-grid station with perhaps ZHA + 1-2 sensors, hence me wondering if <4GB of RAM may work.

I'd be intrgued to hear from others who have tried to scrape by on 1GB of RAM and if they even achieved it in any capacity?

[hard tinsel]

I imagine it'd probably work, although just as a secondary solution, why not put Zigbee2MQTT on it?

[mystic saddle]

my home system works beautifully on a 4GB Pi & I always seem to have 2-3GB spare. My home system has a lot of Zigbee devices connected & much more going on.

[mystic saddle]

interesting, I don't really have experience with Zigbee2MQTT, more ZHA through HA. Can Zigbee2MQTT be utilised as a standalone thing? (no HA)

part of me quite likes the idea / versatility that HA would offer in the long run though I must admit,

[hard tinsel]

No, I was more thinking that, based on your description, you wanted some way of getting 1-2 far away zigbee sensors into your existing home assistant setup, it could do that for you.

[mystic saddle]

I'm not frightened of trying to learn more about Zigbee2MQTT though

[fringe crater]

Yes Zigbee2MQTT is a standalone application, it works without HA running, has its own device dashboard, etc.

[mystic saddle]

oh I see what you mean. A few weeks ago I did look at a few different solutions to somehow merging or intergrating a external / remote HA setup with my home HA setup,

that would be amazing, but I know there's 2-3 solutions for that, each with their own pro's and con's, none seemingly complete or perfect

its a shame it isn't natively supported (connecting two HA installs together so they can work with one another between remote locations)

[hard tinsel]

What's the setup look like here? You've got some zigbee sensors in like an outbuilding or something that you want to hook up to your main HA install?

[winged knoll]

Using Z2M for "remote" Zigbee is pretty much the easy way

All you need is for it and HA to share "a" broker (but both can have a local broker and you can bridge the brokers)

[mystic saddle]

Interesting, thank you folks. Sorry I got called away ☎️ I've purchased a small plot of land out in the countryside, have built a small workshop which is current powered with a small amount of solar panels & lead acid batteries. I have two Pi Zero's running happily there, providing CCTV & Alarm systems. I have a spare RPi 3 Model B+ (1GB RAM) which I would love to see if I could put to good use,

I have a spare Zigbee stick and a variety of different sensors, temp/humidity, door sensors and more. I was thinking I could have a remove HA setup there, just to do some basic sensing. Maybe in the future be able to turn on/off a remote plug socket which I have already spare.

[winged knoll]

A 3B (1 GB of RAM) is enough to run HA

There's a remote home assistant custom integration to hook two together as long as they can reach each other

[mystic saddle]

OK, that's essentially what I wanted to know 👍 I realise it might not be able to do a whole lot and if run into RAM based limitations well that's on me,

[winged knoll]

Don't know how well that handles disconnection and reconnection though

[mystic saddle]

I forgot to mention I have a mobile 4G router there on-site, which has decent connectivity, reliable 40mbps

I already have a reverse SSH shell setup, it reconnects nicely should there be a brief disconnection

that works lovely 🤓

also one Pi on site publishes the voltages of the solar setup to: https://solar.ashleycawley.co.uk/

I will research Z2M further, thank you for your suggestions & input all

[burnt ether]

Thanks, I'll look into changing all the valves. Might get very expensive though...

[pallid brook]

running into ratgdo issues still door and light stay unknown. wiring seems to be fine (using wagos). is there a trick to how much exposed wire needs to be in the ratgdo unit?

[pallid brook]

nm looks like i had the security mode wrong. all fixed yay

[tall ermine]

Hi, can anyone help me figure out and easiest way to go from a Low Voltage Halogen Bulb? or where best to start to figure this?
MR16 12V to a LED bulb and not being able to see or get to the transformer of the wiring as it is now! Has this would mean ripping the all ceiling down! Will somthing like this be ok https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079YPX8YB/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AJNCWJLXEW2MZ&th=1 with maybe something like these bulbs? thanks https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lepro-Compatible-Dimmable-Changing-Required/dp/B086DMH383/ref=sr_1_2?crid=41EVF9A1LJIO&keywords=hnqh+gu10+led+smart+bulb%2Cremote+voice+control+wifi+lamp+5w+rgbcw+dimmable+spotlight+atmosphere+lighting+compatible+with+alexa+%26+google+home+2700-6500k&qid=1700085884&sprefix=%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-2

[graceful gulch]

I have a simple project idea, but I'm not very advanced with hardware. I want a basicish board to read a light sensor and process what it receives and be able to interpret the pattern sent. Then send info back to home assistant based on that. (Over wifi, without soldering) cheaply if possible, but I'm willing to pay for a wifi board and any anything really needed. (I also want to be able to use the board for other random projects.) Would a stemma qt sensor be better than a single light sensor?

What kind of kit would I need for this? I'm pretty sure I can handle the code

[fringe crater]

I mean that sounds just like an ESP32 with esphome and a BH1750 light sensor, both of which are dirt cheap, and it's essentially zero code to get it all running and connected to home assistant.

[graceful gulch]

Oh, sounds cool

[fringe crater]

Could you budge at all on "no soldering"?

it's just like 3-4 DIP pins, it's pretty simple

[graceful gulch]

I can find a soldering iron if that's what your asking

[fringe crater]

I'd just read through these:
https://esphome.io/components/sensor/bh1750.html
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-bh1750-ambient-light-sensor/

[graceful gulch]

Ooh links

[fringe crater]

You can ignore all the Arduino coding part of the latter link, esphome handles all that automatically.

[graceful gulch]

Would it be better to pipe the output of the sensor into home assistant or preprocess like I intended to?

[fringe crater]

Either is fine I guess. You could just send the raw values to HA, and then write templates with it, or do some processing on the ESP if you want.

wait I'm not sure If I'm understanding you correctly. Are you trying to read like a high frequency IR signal?
I was thinking just ambient light detection.

[graceful gulch]

I have a laser pointer

@fringe crater sorry got distracted

[fringe crater]

well I guess you can try the BH1750 and see how it goes. I don't know how it works with laser pointers, or what is the maximum update frequency. But perhaps a different sensor would be better suited.

[graceful gulch]

I'm looking at https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/348/bh1750fvi-e-186247.pdf would

I2C SCL Clock Frequency be how fast it can poll?

Given that max frequency doesn't seem to be listed, this may not be the best chip

[fringe crater]

I saw some anecdotal evidence that going below 1s update interval was non functional.

[golden thorn]

A photodiode should be plenty fast

[fringe crater]

yeah, that might take a little more engineering nous though.

[golden thorn]

There's small ready made fire/flame sensor modules that can give a digital output if that's more what they're looking for.
What exactly are you trying to do @graceful gulch?

[graceful gulch]

I want to flash a sensor from accross the room with a laser pointer and decode that signal

[fringe crater]

like morse code you're gonna generate by hand?

[graceful gulch]

Exactly

I wonder if I would need a larger sensor to detect it so I don't miss (could be hard while flashing it)

[jade jewel]

Anyone got recommendation for a presence + temperature + humidity sensor that is not battery powered

[graceful gulch]

Also I just read the pinned and I'm in the us

[tame magnet]

so i'm looking at setting up a battery-powered remote temperature sensor, and i'm torn between 433 MHz (rtl_433 + mqtt) and BLE (with ???)

the receiver will be a little openwrt device sending up to my home-assistant server, and the sensor itself will be in an engine compartment so size, weight, battery life, and robustness are all important

[patent river]

Stuck inside a big metal box? I'd seriously consider the 433

Or one of the various 900MHz options

[stoic pollen]

Any way to get this bluetooth light to work?

[winged knoll]

A make and model will help people help you

But you also want to ask in #bluetooth-archived

[stoic pollen]

Thanks

[gentle cradle]

Does anyone have any experience with the Aqara E1 TRV? I just bought one and it's behaving odd. When I set the temperature, either through Hassio or with the dial on the TRV, it jumps to a random-but-higher value.

Here I tried setting the TRV to 22, and then a second later it automatically jumps to 28.5

[gentle cradle]

and again, I set to 21.5 and it jumps to 25.5

[winged knoll]

More a topic for #zigbee-archived since that's clearly from Zigbee2MQTT

[spiral sedge]

Hi, yall.
does anyone have experience with this UPS hat:
https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/UPS_HAT_(B)

i'm using it on my RPi 3B+ and i'm getting power status problems

[rapid wren]

For experience with the TRVs see my comments here #zigbee-archived message and here #zigbee-archived message.
I have not experienced the behavior you are seeing, but apparently something (some automation maybe?) must be sending mqtt packets that change the setpoint value.
As for my issues I have solved it by getting sonoff zigbee temp/humidity sensors for each room, setting the TRVs to external sensor and using this blueprint which works extremely well https://community.home-assistant.io/t/z2m-aqara-trv-e1-link-external-temperature-sensor/609689.

[stuck badger]

Is it possible to avoid that my laptop shuts down/sleeps when I close the lid? I have installed HAOS directly on the HDD of the laptop.

[winged knoll]

#installation-archived can help there

[hasty jasper]

anyone use waveshare rs485 to eth? I have strange problem - i conntect to eth and to DC adapter but i eth leds dont light and i dont see any mac on this port on switch

and this is second module - previous i returny my module with this same problem, because i thinks that my module is broken

[gentle fossil]

those things can broadcast only too, they don't necessarily need a ip for that

[hasty jasper]

maybe, but i should see in switch log that port is up and i should see led lights on switch

[gentle cradle]

Thanks @rapid wren I'll give it a try tomorrow

[sage marlin]

A strange thing happened... everything worked, everything was OK, and then suddenly, for no reason, all the relays registered in the config began to turn on and off in @lovelace. I.e. in reality nothing turns off, and in the @lovelace almost every minute writes that on, off, on, off. Relays are described in config.yml as follows:

The history of the device turned on and left alone looks like this:

At the same time, there is access to the device all the time, I drew a script for checking and started running it constantly, no errors were issued, the information was given to the relay correctly:

Does anyone know why this is happening and where to look for the problem?

[jagged crypt]

it's 10/100 only if for some reason you are setting switches to 1g

[blissful silo]

I'm looking at battery powered temoerature + humidity with connectivity. Is Xiaomi Mijia the best option? I'm kind of worried about the BLE range to my Rpi4 (and the hassle of getting BT working in my docker container). Does anyone have any alternatives, preferably not self-built. Zigbee or wifi is also good.
Bonus points if anyone can also recommend me a cheap air quality (voc) sensor

[gentle fossil]

These work fine for me https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/ZG-227Z.html#tuya-zg-227z

[stray crescent]

hey, I'm looking for a Zigbee switch/dimmer that can be put in the place of a standard switch and control smart bulbs without cutting their power off. This would solve the issue of needing to charge the switch and also would work wirelessly with an already smart bulb. Anyone got any tips? Thanks

[tepid heart]

You can use any zigbee switch/dimmer available in your country. Wire it and the bulb up to power. Just don't wire in the control contacts in the bulb circuit.

[vast copper]

Has anyone tried installing home assistant os on the odroid-m1s? Does it bit to emmc memory?

[winged knoll]

#installation-archived could answer that

[flint totem]

Hello everyone! With so many ESPHome devices popping up around my house, I suddenly have a need for more USB power supplies. What's everyone's go-to, cheap but high-quality USB brick?

[fringe crater]

I just go to goodwill/thrift stores and raid whatever leftovers they have for $1. Helps the environment to recycle 😁.

If it's some weird plug type you can just cut the end off and direct solder it.

[golden thorn]

Some of my chargers cut off the power after some time. I suppose it's because the amperage is too low and they try to be smart about it?
So far I only noticed it for my "passthrough" plug and the USB charging ports on my UPS. As for the actual question. Aliexpress mostly. I wouldn't call what I buy quality though.

[jagged crypt]

Hue Motion sensor has temp/lux. Sonoff unit does temp/humidty. Both battery/zigbee.

[unborn moon]

any reason to not cheap out on zigbee smart plugs for only on/off?

[winged knoll]

#zigbee-archived can tell you why you don't want to buy cheap

[hasty jasper]

My switch has auto negotiation, and i see if it has orange (100mbps) or green (1000mbps) light. Seller told me that he check next module and he want do another return to send me tested module.

[jagged crypt]

it's possible he's got a bad batch of psu or devices

[hasty jasper]

I receive 5v psu with module, but yes, i also thinks that he got few bad devices...

[jagged crypt]

sadly in modern quality control, it's cheaper to keep shipping out replacements than it is to get a higher yield of good parts

[hasty jasper]

In my work (DataCenter) i receive few days ago 50 RAM memory, and 5 memory has broken

[mint gulch]

hi all I was curious if this was the place to talk about my sonoff SNZB-02 temp & humidity sensors? i was curious since the last update of HA and Node red if noticed the update interval on top is around 20-30 minutes. if there a way i can speed this up? im currnely using the sonoff intergration from HACS

[winged knoll]

How are they integrated - through the Sonoff hub?

[mint gulch]

Yes i can get the model number if u want but its the local hub im using

[winged knoll]

I don't need it, but knowing that helps people help you

HA (and Node Red) have no control over the update interval - that's handled by the hub and the sensors

[mint gulch]

ill explain in full whats happening and this might help on the picture.

i had a flow in node red created to ready the temp and if over say 20c turn on the fan for example

Check temp > check time window > turn on fan > check it is on if not loop to turn on

this seemed to work perfectly for example if i turned the fan off thinking it was stuck it would instantly turn back on if over the temp.

same would be for heaters if i turned them off due to feeling warm and it turned back on i know the temp was set up high etc.

Node red was updated and lose all flows which was recreated and everything seems to work correctly exept the temp driven flows.

[winged knoll]

Well... the sensor updates have nothing to do with Node Red

[mint gulch]

well i was thinkign its one of two issues.

Either its reading the date too slowly and the issues is in the flow

OR the sensor since the update has now been noticeable and there has always been an issue just not noticed till now.

so overall is there a way to update the interval rate?

[winged knoll]

Update speed is handled entirely between the hub and the sensor

HA can do nothing about that

Node Red can do nothing about that

Node Red sees the updates when they arrive in HA, there's no "reading too slowly"

[mint gulch]

wonder what is causing the change

[jagged crypt]

lack of temperature changes?

my sonoff ones doing ZHA -> sonoff-e stick seems to be about 5 minutes updates

[mint gulch]

Might be that. a constant temp

[burnt ether]

Hey all,

I've got a whole box of free 433mz equipment.
(Doorsensors, motion sensors and remotes)

Any way to use this in home assistant?

If it matters: I've got HA setup on a HP prodesk small PC and use a conbee2 ZigBee stick.

[mint gulch]

seems to be around 5-30

what im aiming for is it the temp is > than X turn on with 0 delay

ill see how this goes by moving the sensers to better spots.

[burnt ether]

Found out I need a 433mhz RF bridge to operate all this.

Any recommendations?

[gloomy spoke]

The docs suggest https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/rflink/

[dusk steppe]

Will that work with HA?

https://amzn.eu/d/0RQ7NK0

[burnt ether]

Ohoh.... Doesn't look beginner friendly 🤣

[burnt ether]

Yea, there's no bridge included so I guess I'll stick to my ZigBee stuff.
Thanks anyway

[cold moon]

https://docs.openmqttgateway.com/ this is kinda interesting

[weak dust]

I'm looking at expanding my energy monitoring. I currently have a bunch of Eve Energy Strips (which are great but sucks that they only monitors the whole strip!).
However, there is currently a good deal on Tapo P115 sockets (12 euro each).

Anyone got any experience with them? Are they worth picking up or should I look for other plugs?

[burnt ether]

It does! I'm looking into it

Looks like it will be necessary to add additional hardware.

I think this is currently above my techskill 🙂

I do have a Pi4b laying around doing nothing.... Will this work? 😅
I don't mind spending time researching but my current tech level is close to 0

If I get this working it would probably also let me control my Somfy IO sun screen in the garden.... I read somewhere I couldn't do this with me current setup either

[plucky drift]

does anybody know of a cloud-free open interface wireless christmas tree light product? that is both battery powered and controllable wirelessly.

[vague steppe]

Is there a hardware guide for the cheapest practical SBC to run HA on?

I'm specifically looking for something with 1 GiB RAM, 4+ GiB eMMC on board, wifi, and at least 2 USB2. Preferably -LTS, but it's not a requirement.

All I'm finding is waaay too overblown and expensive.

[gentle fossil]

LTS as in mobile internet?

[vague steppe]

as in Long Term Support 😉

e.g.,

https://www.friendlyelec.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=-LTS&sub_category=true

[gentle fossil]

1gb ram is way too low for that

[vague steppe]

why? I can run some sort of OpenWRT with docker and HA in a container.

..or even Podman instead of Docker

[uncut sun]

Does anyone know, if aruba access points can be used as a zigbee bridge?

since they have some zigbee settings

[lyric lily]

Good afternoon, brand new home assistant user here , & i need help before my wife kills me. I have a Sonos play bar & sub which works fine playing music wirelessly but whilst it’s connected via optical cable to the TV & shows its working with the title volume bars there is no sound coming out. Any ideas please?

[steel zealot]

Did you enable optical output on your television?

[lyric lily]

Thanks for the reply. I had, at the moment ive removed all integrations & resolved it, next step will be adding them one by one to see where i messed up.

[steel zealot]

Sonos has only one integration or what do you mean?

[lyric lily]

I think… it was a conflict with the TV somewhere. I had 3 integrations of the Samsung Tv. I removed those & it worked (sound on with TV). I think it showed the TV, the Tv as a media player & also the Tv as another device.. when i get chance ill add the Sonos back in then the Tv.

[steel zealot]

I would be careful with installing 3 integrations for one device,

[lyric lily]

I think thats what has caused my issue. I’ll take things a little slower from now.

[rough patio]

Sorry if this has been discussed to death, but I am looking into setting up some audio streaming devices and upon researching I found Shairport to be pretty commonly used. Is this a good choice or are there better alternatives for simple streaming via airplay?

To be more specific, I am looking to utilize a RPI Zero W as the stream player

[clever falcon]

Hey peeps! I'm looking into getting a Switchbot curtain bot for a small project of mine. If I have home assistant, do I actually need the Switchbot hub? Or can I just buy the curtain bot and automate everything via HA?

[fringe crater]

No you do not need the hub. You just need something that can do bluetooth, either the HA host itself, or an ESP32 BT Proxy works great too.

[clever falcon]

Sorry for the stupid question but what is exactly a ESP32 BT Proxy? Do you have any reference material I can look into?

[fringe crater]

You just need an ESP32 ($5), install ESPHome, and then configure the proxy. It speaks to your device over bluetooth and relays the communication to HA over wifi.
https://esphome.io/components/bluetooth_proxy.html

[formal cloak]

I have a few ESPHome based BLE proxies to expand my coverage and I wonder whether there are any 3D printed enclosures that with some simple adaptor allows me to directly plug in the ESP to the power adaptor

[amber hatch]

Picked up an AWOW Gen12 N100 mini PC with 16GB LPDDR5 ($140 after tax) which I plan to replace my existing NUC6CAYH (6 x 2k cameras).

The m.2 x1 slot will be populated with a M.2 B+M to Dual Edge TPU Adapter (1x up, 2x down), and storage will be 512GB SATA3 SSD.

I was wondering if anyone here has used this Mini PC for HA + Frigate and can share their experiences.

[olive jetty]

Hey I am looking for a battery zigbee humidity sensor, any suggestions?

[foggy wasp]

Does anyone know of any smart plugs that can be flashed with esphome? Tried a few and had no luck. They aways sadly seem to have new firmware that blocks being flashed.

[cold moon]

yes you can buy sonoff s31 (wifi not zigbee) and flash them over to esphome

https://digiblur.com/wiki/devices/plugs/sonoff_s31/ scroll down and look at the pics. you gotta get your hands dirty and solder onto tiny pads or buy some pogo pin / alligator clips

[cold moon]

temp/humidity i'd go with the aqara zigbee 3.0 ones

[foggy wasp]

Thanks - I'll take a look. Just found athom sell esphome devices already set up.

[cold moon]

i dont like this design as well https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/us-v2-plug-for-esphome

the on/off button is on the side on the sonoff and imo they just look a bit nicer

https://cloudfree.shop/product/sonoff-s31-flashed-with-tasmota/ they sell them here preflashed to tasmota and then you'd just have to OTA update it to ESPhome

here's what they look like with home assistant esphome integration

[foggy wasp]

Wow that sonoff plug is massive

[white finch]

I could not find ratgdo discord so I'm going to ask here. is it just an esp23 d1 mini with connectors or are there new parts added to it so it can work with the garage door?
I have a mini ESP-WROOM-32 which looks similar to the d1 mini. could I use my mini ESP-WROOM-32 and install ratgdo and just add wires to my esp32? the pic is what it looks like(I have a new one without the soldered bit on).

[patent river]

Some of the pictures of it show what looks like that exact board, but others have the ESP module soldered directly to their carrier

I'm assuming those 3-pin components to the L/R are transistors of some kind for the actual switching

[devout parrot]

Those are dry contacts. so what it is is an esp32 connected to a dry contact board or, in the case of that newer version, a custom board that has the esp and dry contacts all on one board.

Well some of them are dry contacts to trigger actions, some of them are connectors for momentary switches and stuff. So yeah you could theoretically build your own and the firmware is open source, but you'll need more than just the esp32.

[pliant ruin]

I need a couple of bulbs for bedside table lamps. Would these work? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Linkind-Candelabra-Decorative-Chandelier-2700k-6500k/dp/B07SJDG1HZ

[amber hatch]

FYI to any considering the same (AWOW Gen12 N100 / 16GB LPDDR5) - Success!

• Dual Coral TPU (via nvme x1 lane adapter)
• Dual realtek LAN
• 1TB Samsung 860 Evo
• Install N100 + UHD
  All detected fine with HAOS 11.1

[cold moon]

so you had to buy that custom breakout board for the dual coral right?

m.2 to nvme?

[amber hatch]

yep, makerfab ($30)

[cold moon]

so $170 shipped total?

ah nvm plus ssd and coral

[amber hatch]

I already had the makerfab board from my prior install

and the coral 🙂

[cold moon]

post that in #cameras-archived the frigate guys will like the info

[amber hatch]

will do

[cold moon]

any reason you didnt go with proxmox bare metal and haos in a vm?

it's kinda nice dealing with a full OS when troubleshooting

[amber hatch]

No particular reason... just slapped it in to make it work for now.

[cold moon]

ah cool

https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/06/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide.html well give this a gander and see if you'd like it

imo with hardware like yours its even more necessary/useful

[amber hatch]

once I put through the paces on BM, I'll try moving it to proxmox.

[cerulean scroll]

Anyone having luck with Lumary lights? It looks like they used to work with no problem and SlackLabs had them with localtuya. But I can't seem to get that to work in the latest versions. It detects all my other bulbs, etc. The lumary lights however do not. I tried manually adding dpid info but still no dice.

[rocky lichen]

Morning! I have a SONOFF zigbee usb-stick. I want to upgrade the firmware on it. If I do so, will it affect my integration in HA? Or will I just connect it to my pc, update and then plug it back and it will work like before?

ZNP = Texas Instruments Z-Stack ZNP protocol: CC253x, CC26x2, CC13x

[winged knoll]

No, it won't cause problems - but the #zigbee-archived is a better place to ask that kind of question in future

[cunning mist]

I have a question.
I have put my PI in an aluminum housing (for cooling).
As a result, the WIFI reception is very poor.
Which USB antenna can I use as an alternative for HA?

[winged knoll]

Pi 3 or 4?
Why can't you wire it?

[cunning mist]

Pi4

[winged knoll]

Presumably HAOS?

[cunning mist]

unfortunately no network connection via wire possible

Yes HAOS

[waxen yew]

I'm struggling to add 2 M5 stack devices to my WiFi. I think it's because there is an apostrophe in my SSID. This should work as it's a valid character to be in SSID's, so i think it's a bug in the ESP Home new device onboarding... Anyone know of a way round this, other than change my SSID, which i don't really want to do.

[outer knot]

@waxen yew ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.

You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.

[winged knoll]

Try their Discord

[patent river]

You've already been pointed in a direction, but looks like you've got a UTF-8 curly apostrophe rather than an ASCII one there

[winged knoll]

SSID's can contain unicode... just not everything supports that, and some things don't even support spaces

[waxen yew]

Ah, ok... hmmm...

[patent river]

I'd guess whatever you typed in the SSID with put in U+2019 RIGHT SINGLE QUOTATION MARK instead of U+0027 APOSTROPHE.
Modern operating systems are... fun

As @winged knoll points out, technically valid, just not necessarily widely supported

[waxen yew]

It was set using the TP-Link Deco app on iPhone. I guess i ill have to change it... Thank you both for helping!

[wild atlas]

Yup, I figured it was an apple device that did it, they also use left and right double quotes rather than just the quotation mark when typing

[glossy quail]

Does any one could recommend smart power strip with at least 5 outlets? EU plug

[sweet nexus]

We keep blowing our breaker in our food truck, and a lot of our hardware is heavily dependent on power cycles. Anyone have recommendations to be able disable some hardware to avoid blowing the breaker? High wattage smart plugs or something else?

[terse pebble]

An electrician might be more helpful than a smart plug (which aren't really suitable for prolonged high loads)

[winged knoll]

You can buy commercial load shedding kit too, which this may benefit from

[drifting grove]

Any suggestions for a good ZigBee E14 lightbulb available in the EU?

[winged knoll]

Good is Hue

[glacial oracle]

probably hue if money aint short

aw too late :c

[winged knoll]

Good enough is Innr, or Tradfri if you only want whites

[restive canopy]

Is my assumption that a zigbee switch + normal bulb is (on the long run) more economic AND ecologic than a bulb with built-in zigbee?

switch... relay

[winged knoll]

If the swich has neutral then probably yes

[sweet nexus]

Thanks, that was my impression too but I was asked to look into them anyways

[jagged crypt]

unless you want color changing lights 🙂

[drifting grove]

Alright, thanks!

I've also seen innr but they're still twice the price of the ones I'm using now :/

They have a really dim colour max brightness but the white temp functions very well and they're 10 EUR per bulb

Since innr is 20 EUR/bulb and Hue is 40 EUR/bulb, I assume for this price I'm not finding anything better

[jagged crypt]

hue white/ambiance bulbs should not be 40 EUR

20 USD/EUR a bulb for color is where you are at for the most part unless you find liquidation

[patent river]

Potentially found the "filament" ones, they seem to be a bit more expensive than the regular diffuser ones

[drifting grove]

It is on Amazon Deutschland

[jagged crypt]

8watt/800 lumen Wiz lights are $16 USD (wifi)

[drifting grove]

Or maybe I'm looking at the wrong one here

[patent river]

Apparently they now make a flaccid version:

@drifting grove https://www.amazon.de/dp/B099NQPPL3

Two cool-warm white, €40

The €85/2 is the RGBW version

[drifting grove]

Yeah, sorry I forgot to specify that I was looking for an RGB one

[patent river]

Aha, well that seems to be in line with what those cost elsewhere. $76 here in NZ which is about €42

[drifting grove]

Currently I'm using these ones: https://amzn.eu/d/408lR2k and my only complaint is that the RGB is very dim. But they are around 8.50 per bulb so I guess it's fair

[drifting grove]

😦
I was really hoping that the pricing for zibgee devices would be comparable to WiFi ones

[patent river]

Apparently though there should be a 470lm version, rather than those 320lm ones you found

[drifting grove]

They are 470 but I guess for white only

[drifting grove]

And actually when added in zha, the ha thinks that they are rated for 2000K whereas they are 2700K minimum but it's not a biggie

[patent river]

Actually I'll give them some credit for this one:

Max brightness depends on colour temperature, that's relatively expected and they're being unexpectedly open about it

[drifting grove]

I don't have this picture in my Amazon version. There is nothing like that on my package

So I guess not too open after all

[patent river]

That was off this page: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B099NRKZKQ

So it's one of the models off amazon.de

[drifting grove]

Ah, I was speaking about the lamps that I have currently, not the hue ones

[patent river]

Oh, gotcha

[cosmic grove]

So I’ve poked around the discord for an hour or so looking at air quality sensor related conversations, and here's what I’ve seen… I’m wondering if anyone can weigh in/share thoughts. Most air sensors fall into 3 categories:

1. Cheap: not really accurate, but good for getting a general idea of significant changes in air quality.
2. Expensive: Accurate, but.. well.. expensive.
3. DIY: on the cheaper- to mid-range in cost, but not if you factor in the time it takes to implement the sensors.
   I’d prefer a product that’s accurate, as I’ve spent most of this fall season sick from allergies (and a couple food poisonings, but let’s not go there.) I’d also prefer non-DIY options, as I’ve got a lot going on, and I’d prefer to not spend a lot of time tinkering with electronics and code.

What sort of things should I look for in a ready-to-go product that will tell me it’s reliable? It’s possible I’ve missed something, so please share if I have! Right now I’m leaning towards Air Gradient, but even that is getting up in the expensive range.

oh: Ps, I'd love to sense CO2 as well as all the Particulate matter and VOCs, etc.

[sand oxide]

I feel like I'm not understanding the HA integration with aquara FP2 sensor. Will it require a home kit device to be seen in HA?

I don't have the device yet, just bought it and attempting to do research.

[rotund burrow]

there don

there don't seem to be much for wall panels compatible with HA

[jagged crypt]

was going to point out airgradient. if you want accurate, you have to pay for it in sensors. You don't want to tinker (I fully understand), so you are paying for tested, built, and software, also more cost. So you are rapidly coming with expensive no matter what. Are you trying to determine when your allergies are going to flare up, or how to fix it when they do? 🙂

[patent river]

And if you look at what more commercial solutions cost, the price of the airgradient is going to start to seem really reasonable :\

[cosmic grove]

Yep. It’s definitely the most reasonable by far.

[patent river]

From the brand of LoRa sensors I use, similar set of features (Temp/Humidity/CO2/PM2.5/PM10/TVOC/air pressure/light/PIR) is double that price:
https://mydevices.com/product/milesight-am308-battery-powered-indoor-ambience-monitoring-sensor/
And also you have to buy a LoRa gateway, so you're on the hook for a couple of hundred bucks for that too

[cosmic grove]

I’m setting up a workshop in the garage. Pretty well enclosed, with a hot water heater (gas) in the corner. Presumably that’s vented well.

I want to know what the air quality is like running various tools, and how different dust collection and air systems will clear out the dust and other stuff, and clear the air. Basically, when do I need to open the garage and let the air circulate.

As far as allergies, I’d like to know if the days I have flare ups are related to a rise in what is in the house vs what’s being reported. I’ve had a runny nose for almost a month now, but my allergy app tells me the forecast is low

[jagged crypt]

slightly sarcastic, my apologies, but if you are running tools generating dust in the garage, open the door, no sensor required to tell you that.

[cosmic grove]

Fair point, but I don't exactly like to be working in a fishbowl. 😬 🔭

[cosmic grove]

My goodness this thing is pricey. I mean it does everything but wowzers.

[patent river]

Yeah...

But they are very nice

I don't have any of those, but do have the smaller temperature/humidity/CO2 ones (AM103)

And a bunch of their other things

[modern oak]

Does there exist a lightswitch which looks identical to your average light switch and operates like your average lightswitch but is in fact smart, and the position of the physical switch reflects the real state? Surely such a thing could be implemented with a couple of solenoids or a mildly torquey motor?

[wild vapor]

Does anyone know how to connect a grove speaker to RPI?

[sick slate]

Can anyone help me with these Sonoff S31's?

I've got 4 of them, I was able to put one of them in boot mode and flash it to ESPHome but it literally took hours of playing around with the hooks for the USB to TTL adapter and it is refusing to let me do the other plugs.

I'm on Windows 11 and the plug will show up in the COM3 port when I don't hold the power button down, but if I hold the button down as I plug it in, it never shows up in the device manager list so I can't flash it. I have no idea how I got the first one to flash but It must have been pure luck getting it visible in boot, there's got to be a better way.
I've got all the drivers, watched a hundred videos I just don't know why I'm having such a hard time putting it in boot mode and at the same time making the port visible

I got the first one to work by somehow only unplugging the VCC cable while holding the power button down, magically it just worked (after hours of fiddling with it) but the same thing isn't working for the other plugs..

Unplugging only the VCC will make it show up as COM3 but when I plug the VCC back in while holding boot it disappears

[outer knot]

@sick slate ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.

You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.

[winged knoll]

They can probably better help you over in the ESPHome Discord server

[surreal rampart]

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions on how to place sensors on these door trims? I don't think the largest piece will stay if I place it on the trim. The small piece will get in the way if it's on the lower part of the trim or be too far away

[winged knoll]

You'll probably find it'll still work with the battery on the top - worth testing

You can also pop the magnet out from inside that and stick it on the surround - done that myself in a few spots

(and if you really wanted to you could embed it in the surround, apply filler, and paint it so it vanishes

[surreal rampart]

Oh so its footprint is smaller?

[winged knoll]

Open it up 😉

[jagged crypt]

the small unit has nothing other than a magnet in it

[surreal rampart]

I'll give that a shot!

[patent river]

If you need it to work from a longer distance - which it looks like you potentially might - you can also use your own, more powerful magnet 🙂

[surreal rampart]

Ah alright. That's a good idea too

[glacial oracle]

Id probably just add a spacer to the door side

[silk basin]

the esp32 I am using needs to be started before switching to programming mode then momentarily hit reset button. it won't program if it's already in programming mode at startup. dunno if that helps in your situation.

[sick slate]

Kind of, managed to flash 3/4 of them by sort of playing around quickly pulling the vcc cable off and on while holding the button, takes a bit of luck I guess to get it into programming

[cold moon]

definitely not

some need a pin grounded

but luck and quickly removing power i've never had to do lol

[sick slate]

I’m sure I’m doing it wrong but I’ll take what I can get 😆

[silk basin]

shouldn't be that random. power it up with serial port using 5v to 5v, Rx to Tx, Tx to Rx, and gnd to gnd; then after boot and after serial communication is established ground io0 to allow programming mode boot up and finally momentarily ground en to restart it into programming mode. it's ready for upload then, unless the bootloader was messed with you should see the "waiting for download" message or something thereabouts.

[silk basin]

also, flickering the power to esp32 is best done only after proper goodbyes have been executed and their last will and testament is registered. the few I've seen were not equipped with a surge capacitor and induction diode.

[sterile coyote]

Failing HDD?

[golden thorn]

You could check its SMART values and do a file system check
Kinda missed in which server I was in. Might still be applicable to you though.

[jagged crypt]

loose cable, or crappy connection. reseat all the data connections. Read error on the same sector, could just be a bad area that needs to be remapped out. If you don't have a backup, now would be a time to make one 🙂

yeah, we can go into SMART also, like rawriting onto the block to force the re-map 🙂

but probably easier to make a backup, and reseat the sata cable

[sterile coyote]

Will check tomorrow been a long night.

I've made a backup of everything important. So you recommend I reseat the sata cable and see how that goes? The disk uptime is only 1054 hours so not even that much

[jagged crypt]

is this ssd or rotating?

[sterile coyote]

Hdd

[jagged crypt]

reseat the cable, bad cables can cause issues. Drives eitehr die rapidly, or a long time in my experience, rarely in the middle of normal lifespan

[sterile coyote]

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow. I've actually never opened a laptop up before so should be interesting!

[jagged crypt]

laptop drive? you may not be able to reseat the cable as easily, depends on age of laptop. if this is for homeassistant, you can queue up a 256/512gig SSD for cheap to replace it 🙂

[golden thorn]

I'd grab a USB stick, put ventoy and a live linux iso on it, then boot off of it and run a short SMART test and check its health. Gsmartcontrol is a GUI around smartmontools.
I usually use linux mint for a general purpose live linux but you can also use ubuntu or something else you know. You can also check the file system that way.

[dim pasture]

Is this an appropriate place to ask for smart switch recommendations. I’m in the us and would prefer not WiFi. Zigbee or zwave is fine, though I have 20ish zigbee devices already.

[sterile coyote]

About 7 years old at a guess. Yeah I use it for HA amongst other small docker containers. I don't even think I'd know how to swap the HDD for a SSD if I'm honest lol

Especially in a laptop, a desktop no problem, but a laptop seems way too compact to even begin lol

[jagged crypt]

yeah, i wouldn't bother with the laptop

(of that age)

i run ha in a proxmox guest on a lenovo tiny i5-6500 system

[sterile coyote]

I did try running a smart test last night (sudo smartctl -a /dev/sda2) late last night but didn't copy the output to see exactly the issue. I'll try again this morning and see if it gives anything useful

[jagged crypt]

in my experience, this is what you are looking for:
5 Reallocated_Sector_Ct 0x0033 100 100 001 Pre-fail Always - 0

[sterile coyote]

Yeah I've considered getting a mini pc of some description but not sure what to go for and currently my power consumption is only about 0.3kwh per day so I would like to keep it as close to that as possible which I doubt is possible with a mini pc..

[sterile coyote]

Is this good or bad to see?

[jagged crypt]

i only look at the last number, which is bad-sectors

so the final 0 in my paste

but that's usually from write errors.

[sterile coyote]

Thanks, I'll run the test here soon and see what I can find out

[jagged crypt]

my lenovo tiny idles at 15watts

[golden thorn]

You might be able to lower that with some BIOS tweaks (ASPM for example) and powertop --auto-tune.
The china Mini PCs (N100, N5105, etc) can usually idle at 6w.

[zealous dune]

my N100 uses 0.16 kWh per day

[golden thorn]

0.16x1000/24 = 6.66666666667
Close enough

[zealous dune]

yeah those dumb case LEDs and active cooling also use power

[sterile coyote]

Idle at 6w? Oh what a dream, best I got was idling at 12-15w

[zealous dune]

benefit of using a new gen cpu

and i'm using only a fraction of what its capable of

[sterile coyote]

Spec of my currently broken laptop server lol

[sterile coyote]

@zealous dune something like this much better than what I've got I assume? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Windows-3750H-TRIGKEY-S3-Graphics/dp/B09MFKZFYG?th=1

[golden thorn]

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/2542vs5157/AMD-A10-8700P-vs-Intel-N100

[sterile coyote]

Much better in both performance and power consumption then

[zealous dune]

yuuup

[sterile coyote]

Looks like a decent black friday deal too!

[zealous dune]

eeeh... not really unless GBP dropped like a brick

[sterile coyote]

I'm based in the UK anyway lol

[zealous dune]

you can get them for 130€ in the not-UK

[sterile coyote]

Damn

[zealous dune]

brexit tax!

[sterile coyote]

Yep for sure because no doubt if I buy it in the EU I'll end up having to pay tax and it'll work out about the same anyway

[sterile coyote]

Yeah doesn't look good lol

[golden thorn]

Can you show the whole information? Including the HDD model

[sterile coyote]

https://pastebin.com/XcuhFcPM

[golden thorn]

Also give this a try
https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/S.M.A.R.T.#Run_a_test
https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/S.M.A.R.T.#View_test_results

[sterile coyote]

Running long test, got to wait 195 minutes now lol

[golden thorn]

Could have made a short test first 😄

[sterile coyote]

Cancelled, running a short one now lol

[golden thorn]

In any case, I'd recommend replacing it with a SSD as well.

[sterile coyote]

https://pastebin.com/ddYNa8K3
yeah if it's completely dead I'll probably just buy the N100 I linked above rather than buying a new SSD for it

[livid owl]

I hope this is is the right channel, but I have the following question: I would like to automate my sliding gate as simple as possible. most topics talk about using 433mhz communication but I was wondering if wouldn't be easier to simply wire a smart switch to contacts 5&6 (normally used for videophone/key opening)?

[glacial oracle]

If it's as simple as momentarily bridging either the wires of 5 or 6 this may work depending on what voltage these run at

Would need to make sure the smart switch toggles correctly but that should be doable with an automation

[stuck warren]

I am currently running my HA on a Pi3B and I was thinking of upgrading to something a bit more powerful yet still no too powerhungry. Any recommendations?

[winged knoll]

Pi4 + powered USB hub + SSD if you want a small upgrade

HA Green is another

[cold moon]

N100 based mini pcs are the hot new rage

[stuck warren]

What are the major differences between the green and yellow? I kinda like the PoE on the yellow since I have ubiquity switches with PoE, but otherwise? Other than the pricetag

[winged knoll]

Yellow is just a Pi, the Green isn't

Other than that...

[terse pebble]

Yellow has a Zigbee module integrated, the Green hasn't.

[sage jacinth]

Hey I need recommendation for humidifier what is compatible to HA. Anyone can help?

[bold roost]

Hello, i am looking to buy a roborock q Revo robot vacuum, i was wondering if anyone here has one.
Im looking into extracting the map and exposing it in ha
Anyone have any comment on this vacuum?

[stuck warren]

So since I already have a zigbee module, it might be worth taking the green over the yellow?

[terse pebble]

It depends.
The Green is fine for beginners.
The Yellow has a bit more power and the storage can be expanded with a NVMe drive. It can also integrate a Z-Wave Pi HAT (like the Aeotec Z-Pi 7) in the enclosure. But it can be more demanding to set up. If you are buying a PoE kit, it might also still be challenging to get a decent CM4 in some areas.
If you need much more computing power (like for camera object detection or a local voice assistant), both would not be the best choice.

In that case a N100 mini PC might be the better choice

[stuck warren]

Well, I kinda think either yellow or the mini pc would be the option for me. I will check and see what I will upgrade to in the future. What is more urgent ist to find a new tablet I can use as a central control unit. My fire table just died two weeks ago

Oh I just had another idea, I still have an 2Gen i5 at home, would it make sense to find a small mobo and case for that and run HA on that?

[terse pebble]

If you think about using a Google Coral for object detection - don't use the Yellow. The m.2 version is not compatible and the USB version doesn't work reliably.

[terse pebble]

Depends on how power hungry it is

And how much electricity costs in your area 😆

[stuck warren]

Google Coral and I don't go well together. I had not so nice experiences with that thing in university

[stuck warren]

I mean wouldn't the n100 be similar in that regard?

[terse pebble]

The N100 are less powerful, but also consume less power

[stuck warren]

well 6W vs 95W. That settles it xD

[zealous dune]

small difference 😄

[rich venture]

i have a lot of led strips to buy, 10m rgbw and 20m of rgb cct
where should i buy them? eu preffered
if rgb cct strips arent avalibile i am fine with rgbw substitution

also i preffer them to be "water resistant" as then they are easily cleaned from dust

[zealous dune]

wherever you buy make sure they're from BTF Lighting

water resistant means the silicone will yellow over time so don't buy it unless you really need water proof ones

[rich venture]

really? they will not be exposed to uv

[zealous dune]

neither were mine

[rich venture]

what about the ones that are sorta in the tube

[zealous dune]

those could be better but that led spacing is poor

mine are in diffusers

[rich venture]

yea, i will get 30m of that, they will be used under the steps but i am looking for rgb options rn

[worldly flower]

What's the cheapest most reliable (without any DYI) WiFi only for HA controller for a color strip?

[civic kraken]

What kind of color strip? I'm not sure how good they are but there are some controllers pre-flashed with WLED that I would probably go with if DIY is out of the question

[wild atlas]

I would go for mental gymnastics of like a dig uno since I didn't have to solder up the controller, but yeah it's still rather diy like and not as much like a full prebuilt solution

[pale raven]

Anyone had any trouble with a athom IR Controller AR01

I can get it to receive IR codes and it says It is sending them . But I can't even see the IR led with my camera going off. Thoughts?

[tacit pilot]

I just got a cat paml. Looking for one of those soil moisture sensors. Or really any kind of plant related smart home stuff cuz I've never looked into it before. I know there's that one popular BLE sensor

[terse pebble]

The Xiaomi Flowercare HHCC Plant sensor.

There are several similar looking

[tacit pilot]

Thanks. Is that different than the Mi Flora?

[terse pebble]

It is the same. The ones using the Flowercare app (those are made by HHCC) are fine.
like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Wanfei-Intelligent-Bluetooth-Fertility-Temperature/dp/B07ZH7FQJ7

The battery life is not great (and the percentage is totally inaccurate), but it is working fine for me

[tacit pilot]

Thanks. I saw that one too but wasn't sure if it was HA compatible

[terse pebble]

You have to be careful. There are non-smart versions and non-compatible ones which look similar

But if they use the Flowercare App and you find the HHCC somewhere, it should be fine with the Xiaomi BLE integration

[tacit pilot]

b-parasite looked cool too but doesn't look like there are any pre-built solutions

[terse pebble]

I got mine, just because I wanted to have a plant entity 🤣

||It's almost like Pokemon||

[drifting grove]

Take a look at the tasmota flasing tool. it's a webite. much easier. then change if after that.
New device? Plug in – have your new tasmota firmware in .bin format.
Open the Tasmotizer app and that will get it installed.
Then click the Config button on the Tasmotizer and setup the Wifi SSID and password.
Reboot again, then use the Tasmotizer to get the IP address.
Bob’s your uncle and you can login to the IP or use the Tasmo admin and send the setup config below.
I have found it best to get about 20-30 S31's and do them all at once. take notes in your own language. you will forget how you did it in a month or so.

@sick slate Here is a script i use to speed up the conifg. I always label my S31"s with the last 4 digits of the MAC address. You will loose some, some get found in drawers months away. Hope it helps.

Always separate out the network setup and restart from the other

Backlog SSID1 MYSSID; Password1 wifipass; IPAddress1 0.0.0.0; IPAddress2 192.168.1.1; IPAddress3 255.255.255.0; IPAddress4 192.168.1.1; IPAddress5 192.168.1.34; Restart1

Backlog ntpServer1 time.nist.gov; ntpServer2 0.pool.ntp.org; Latitude 11.826493; Longitude -11.706528; timezone -6; OtaUrl 1; Emulation 1; InfoRetain 0; SetOption8 1; SetOption10 1; SetOption53 1; SetOption55 1; SetOption74 1; SetOption21 1; TempRes 3; mqtthost 192.168.1.34; mqttclient ; mqttport 1883; mqttuser mqtt-user; mqttpassword yourMQTTpass; SysLog 1; DeviceName S31-Tree; FriendlyName S31-Tree; Hostname S31-Tree 44:48; Restart 1

Backlog GroupTopic1 Temp; GroupTopic2 0; GroupTopic3 0; GroupTopic4 0; restart 1

[drifting grove]

For those of you all who are having issues connecting to boards with FTDI. Such as the Sonoff S31. I have found two methods that work for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Sumnacon-Multimeter-Electrical-Test-Clips/dp/B07T2XX8PD/ref=sr_1_13?crid=129CEQO9F2OVS&keywords=Test+Hook+Multimeter+Part+Wire+Clip&qid=1700709204&sprefix=test+hook+multimeter+part+wire+clip%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-13

[drifting grove]

get a pack of these push connectors. Cut them in half, strip the wire and connect to your FTDI adapter. The tiny clamp will fit into the hole divot. it's a still and you'll learn your own method. having a "4th Hand" I prefer the ones wth a flexible arm instead of the solid arms that move around. Make sure the base is nice an heavy. Keep blue poster tack putty around to help keep things in place.

2nd option and works just as well if not better. is to make a 'jig' clamp? I'm sure I'm not referring to it correctly.
1st - eat a popsicle. snap the stick in half. line up your FTDI colored wires on the stick. I like 20 gauge wire. you might consider something larger and then use plyers to flatten out the wire a bit. Super glue the wires down onto the stick so that they line up with whatever board your working on. This only really works if the FTDI holes are on the side of the board. wear disposable gloves so you don't glue your fingers together. use the backing power trick if you want to speed up dry time. then take a fingernail file and sand off all the glue from the tops of the wires, so that they are exposed -conductive. get a medium sized binder clip. get some wax paper or similar. put that between the two pieces of popsicle boards. line them up. dremel, cut, sand down the boards so it is just the size to clamp onto the board and the wires like up with the FTDI socket/divot...
then super glue the hell out of the boards onto the binder clip. let it dry. Now you have a clamp you can just clip onto your board. the wires line up and you can flash your device.
Adafuit also sells these Pogo Pin Probe Clips. Whis is a much more professional example. I wasn't aware of those. Hope this helps someone.

[drifting grove]

Has anyone falshed Tasmota onto a Kasa Smart / TP-link smart wifi light switch?

[cold moon]

You can’t go wrong with Meanwell power supplies

Can the wire gauge support the amps?

10 gauge cables to every room with 12v?

[lavish forum]

Can anyone recommend a 3 speed fan/ light combo dimmer that’s on a single switch? I’ve been having a hard time trying to find one that’s able to be used with home assistant regardless of how it’s done.

[visual summit]

heya lovely people, I am looking for some guidance on some smart thermostats for my wall heaters. I am situated in the EU (Germany) and any transmission standard such as wifi, zigbee and the likes would work for me. I have found some devices that run zigbee and seem to be all the same white label stuff for about 30 EUR each, however I would need an extra zigbee addon for my pi. worth it? the thermostat brand is Unitec btw. Maybe someone has some experience or recommendations they are willing to share 🙂 looking for possibly up to 3 thermostats

[winged knoll]

Zigbee is great for affordable sensors (door/window, motion, temperature, leaks, etc)

[visual summit]

only thing is that it says it is tuya powered

i heard from someone else that those can be a bit of a pita

[winged knoll]

Yeah... Tuya's WiFi stuff should be avoided, but not all of the Zigbee stuff is bad

[visual summit]

alright

https://www.amazon.de/UNITEC-Heizkörper-Thermostat-Erweiterung-Display-kompatibel/dp/B08TMY8S2D/

this is the one I had in mind

[winged knoll]

I use the Aqara E1 (https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/SRTS-A01.html) and that's proven to be pretty good

[tender aurora]

anyone attempted to make industrial sliding doors "smart"? basically just by adding something that can control the circuitry

those often used in shopping malls and such

[steel zealot]

should be fairly easy with esphome

[tender aurora]

yeah, but i guess i'm just wondering more about the eletronics part of this. and what kind of hardware that's needed?

[steel zealot]

most likely just an esp and a relay

[tender aurora]

but a sliding door usually have different "positions". for instance "permanently open", "only exit", "closed" and so on

[steel zealot]

okay then i need more info of about what you are trying to accomplish

[tender aurora]

well, we want to be able to control when it should be open. meaning permanently open. and then we also need the option of letting "one through" by impulse if the door is set to permanently closed (or exit only)

but the main question is basically regarding these doors and what they usually are capable of and if anyone has worked with them

[steel zealot]

if it has a sensor indoors and outdoors you can do all the things mentioned

[tender aurora]

yeah, it has a sensor, but i don't want to hook into the sensor. i just want to tell the door if it should care about the sensor or not

[steel zealot]

the sensor most likley has a relay in it so you can put one relay in parallel and one relay in series, with ther relay in series you disable the sensor and with a relay in parralel you can remotly open or close the door

without a schematic its not easy to say

https://www.olideautodoor.com/images/Casa1/casa1_wiring_with_microwave_sensor.png

if you follow these wires to the controller it should be easy

[tender aurora]

i'll try and get some schematics/details from the door

i know it has a rotary switch to set the mode of the door

[steel zealot]

you could emulate the switch with relays and an esphome, but the exit one single user would require some extra code, like you put it in closed mode and if you want to let a person out you briefly enable exit only per example

[tender aurora]

well, i guess the "exit only" mode basically just "listens" to the internal sensor and then opens if that is triggered

but i think that's a break-in waiting to happen

to me it sounds like it's pretty easy to just put something pretty flat through the gap between the doors and then "inflate" it once on the inside

but i guess that depends on the sensitivity of the sensor

[steel zealot]

but when do you leave it on exit only mode? forever?

[tender aurora]

i think maybe never

but it would be nice to be able to make the whole rotary switch "smart"

and at the same time have it so that we are able to allow entry temporarily, even if it's in closed mode

so i guess the only way to allow it to allow by-request access is by temporarily setting the mode to open..?

[steel zealot]

yes

or if the controller has a special feature for that

[tender aurora]

yeah, just send a pulse that would allow one passage within a certain time period

https://doormanuals.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Dorma-ES-90-100.pdf

this is the door/controller

http://doorteam.ir/uploads/73a2191c-5d14-4122-9f16-481139afedc1.pdf

[tawny viper]

@glossy sage

https://august.centercode.com/key/eurobeta

if you let me know when you apply, I'll put in a goodd word for you

[glossy sage]

Done! Hope I'll get a copy, still hadn't gotten a smart lock so I'm feeling lucky about the timing! Thanks for the ping 🙂

[tawny viper]

Let me know the email you submit with

🙂

[stable lily]

I'm hoping to control my old Philips LivingColors lamp in HA. According to the user manual, looks like it's a RF remote:

-Wireless RF mode frequency band: 2405~2475 MHz
-Wireless communications protocol: IEEE 802.15.4)
-Operating channels: channels 11, 15, 20 or 25

Looking at RF controllers...since the Broadlink RM4 Pro is 433 MHz and the ESP-360-REMOTE is 433 MHz or 315 MHz.

Do I understand correctly that means they won't work with the lamp at 2405~2475 MHz?

Is there any other RF blaster that will work and/or other way to control the lamp in Home Assistant?

[lime harbor]

Need help identifying this connector - does anyone know what it's called?

[winged knoll]

What's the cable attached to?

[lime harbor]

LED and exhaust fan

Actully, here's what I need to identify. There's 120V there and I need to "convert" that into a regular 2-prong socket

[fringe crater]

maybe 2-pin Molex?

idk if the dimensions are right, but that's what jumps to mind for me

[lime harbor]

The inner side is about 2mm

Thanks! Does Molex come in different sizes?

[fringe crater]

the name is all I know 🤷

this looks pretty close. I'd measure the pitch, seems like 4.2mm seems to be fairly common.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832517224418.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.5e4aiuvhiuvhCl&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.362094.0&scm_id=1007.40050.362094.0&scm-url=1007.40050.362094.0&pvid=bece16e4-8fd9-41a5-9ad0-45167ac61ba0&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.362094.0,pvid:bece16e4-8fd9-41a5-9ad0-45167ac61ba0,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!0.08!0.07!!!0.08!!%402103200617007679403187344e8687!12000028217834855!rec!US!4163199636!

or just cut the plug off and solder it onto something else 😁

[rich venture]

snip snip always works

[rich venture]

keep in mind that you also need to buy pins inside as i dont think one you linked comes with pins

[devout parrot]

You might be able to pair that lamp to ZHA or z2m. What's the model number?

[stable lily]

ZHA preferred if that's an option...Model No 69143/60/48

[tawny viper]

Miboxer

I have their 2.4 paired with a gledoptro

[jade jewel]

I have mini splits in my house and I automated them but now if I want to change the temperature manually the temperature on my remote does not match. I was thinking to just remotes all together and put smart thermostats in each room as a remote control which would sync with home assistant to show the set temperature and well thats one less sensor I need to change batteries in

But I cant find a good smart thermostat with local integration

Nest Ecobee and Honeywell all seem to need some sort of cloud connection

Any ideas on which one I can get

[tawny viper]

The cheaper nest has matter

[jade jewel]

The one with the mirror like display?

[pure island]

hey guys ! Any recommendation for a ESP32 stick model to get Bluetooth BLE on HA that can be share throught Hyper-V to Debian VM ? Thanks in advanced

[stable lily]

Oh thanks! And how is it integrated into Home Assistant?

[tawny viper]

The remote itself isn't

There were pairing instructions with my controller. The controller is zigbee.

@stable lily Miboxer
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO1sYt6

Idk if it works with your Philips thing.

Probably a search of that remote and Philips

So I guess doesn't completely help. I read it wrong. I'd see if you could just replace bulb with a hue and use zigbee

[tall hare]

hi im back for another question. does this zigbee stick is compatible with majority of the zigbee devices out in the market? also any zigbee plug that can do power monitoring?

[zealous dune]

device compatibility is determined by the gateway software you use

[winged knoll]

(and that particular stick is a bad choice)

[tender aurora]

anyone know of a snow sensor? basically that can quantify how much it snows at any given interval?

i see there's something called a snow gauge

[terse pebble]

Isn't that called a Husky?

[tender aurora]

a what now? 🙂

as in the dog?

[terse pebble]

Yeah. The more excited they get the more snow is available 😆

[tender aurora]

hehehe

so i just need to hook my husky up to the ADC on the esp32? 🙂

or use a sound level sensor of some sort? 🙂

[terse pebble]

Why not both?

[tender aurora]

well, i guess i need to get the husky first

[terse pebble]

They need much maintenance, but are so versatile
||enough nonsense now from my side ||

[tender aurora]

i see ultrasonic sensors is some of the rage here

[karmic cargo]

Would there be any issues running HA on an iMac from 2013? I'm not sure of the exact specs off the top of my head, but I just need it to control about 50 lights in one room. No expectation (at this point, at least) that we'd expand our automation beyond this, but I'm sure we'll come up with something eventually.

[golden thorn]

People run it on old pis. It's not ideal and I wouldn't recommend it but it will probably work.

[tepid heart]

There was some obscure issue with time triggers happening randomly on old iMacs, not sure how old. I'll see if I can find the topic.

[karmic cargo]

Thanks. This would be used at our church, and I'd like to reuse the old hardware we've got if at all possible. Mostly, it would be click a button to enable a lighting scene, with one smart switch somewhere for general use of "turn all the lights on for cleaning/general use by people we don't want to give the computer pwd to".

[tepid heart]

Found it: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/automation-time-not-working-correctly/526823/30 seems that a fix was included in HASO 10 and later.

So should be ok.

[fringe crater]

I run HAOS and more on a similarly aged laptop and it's fantastic.

[karmic cargo]

Might set it to turn lights off automatically if they're on when everyone's gone, just to be sure they're off, but I doubt it...

If we really need it for more, or run into significant issues, I'll donate an RPi of some sort. I'd say it'd take up less desk space, but an iMac is nothing more than an overpriced monitor, at its heart, anyway, so we wouldn't even have that going for us...

This, I think, would be the key item for my concern: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/automation-time-not-working-correctly/526823/7 Thanks all!

No problems with anything apart from the time automation.

[stable lily]

Ok thanks anyways 🙂 The lamp seems pretty sealed..I don't want to damage it by cracking it open. I may just have to settle for using it with smart plug and only having on/off control in HA

[stoic trellis]

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/images/products/besta-tv-bench-with-doors-white-lappviken-white__0995908_pe821978_s5.jpg?f=xl any recommendations for an LED strip to go under this unit?

[drifting grove]

just set up a Sky Connect instead of a Conbee2....... am testing an Aqara motion sensor, see if it is better than the conbee before i pair more stuff.... does the skyconnect have a better chip than the conbee?

[cold moon]

jump to #zigbee-archived

[jagged crypt]

Anyone have any favorite "inexpensive" usb-c power bricks? Got a 6-pack for msr1's showing up, and need to power them. Looks like Anker powerport3's are $19 for a 3-pack. I can cheaper no-name, but always slighty warry of time involved in solving issues with the cheapo's. Any other options/suggestions? (US plugs)

[cold moon]

I’d prob go with the anker

[half raptor]

How easy/hard is it to root/install base android on Kindles these days? I'm tempted to snag one on sale for a HA control panel. Is there a better tablet on sale?

[jagged crypt]

yeah, think i'm sticking with that. Have to eyeball some cable lengths also

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/Amazon_Fire_HD_10/dp/B0BL5XPDR6 $80 for 2023 fire model then use fire toolbox https://xdaforums.com/t/windows-linux-tool-fire-toolbox-v32-4.3889604/ to install google play store and remove amazon junk

** Restricted equates to wether or not Amazon has locked down the firmware. When a firmware is restricted it means we cannot fully block OTAs, use custom launchers without Fire Launcher, lockscreen ads can no longer be permanantly removed, and some system apps can't be disabled. Even though a tablet is marked as Restricted in the table above, sometimes it may only apply to certain versions of FireOS. If your tablet is on a firmware before the listed firmware then your tablet is NOT restricted. See the "FireOS Restrictions and Fire Toolbox" section of the FAQ section (post #2) for further information on restricted firmwares. i dont love this tho

[half raptor]

Ehhhh ok, maybe the golden era of using Fire tablets and just insta-rooting them and getting rid of kindle are done?

I don't like the idea of ads in my living room

[cold moon]

maybe i have one using fully kiosk browser

it works fine

but i guess i'm on older software

[half raptor]

this gen with those restrictions? yea...

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Android-Storage-Long-Lasting-Expandable/dp/B09N41RC6L

this thing looks pretty good but i bet you can find under $100

fully kiosk browser should work fine on any android tablet - this is what my fire HD looks like in hass

[half raptor]

That's the plan, just didn't want lock screen ads I'll have to dig in I guess

[cold moon]

well i have the lockscreen removed entirely with fully kiosk browser

[half raptor]

Does the screen not turn off?

[cold moon]

it goes straight from off to home assistant dashboard

using the camera for "motion detection"

[half raptor]

Yea, that

so if it can go from screen off -> HA

the Samsung A8 is within my budget, may just do that

[cold moon]

Yolo

[rapid whale]

moving from p3 (docker) to a miniPC, can I get a second opinion of promox ? looks super interesting

[formal dagger]

Does some1 know a alternative for this
https://www.withings.com/eu/en/sleep-analyzer/shop?cjdata=MXxZfDB8WXww&cjevent=afe4b0f18b2211ee811e3e3a0a18b8f6&gad_source=1&utm_source=CJ&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=affiliation-JVWEB+PERFORMANCE&utm_content=1765335-Home+Page+DE-13184215

it needs to be able to track when some1 is laying on it

quz automations

ping me plz

[hard moon]

anyone got Aqara H1 without the hub? I have it all setup and working but some settings arent available in HA

like disabling a switch and using remote only

[glacial oracle]

I bought cheap ZigBee plugs. Hope my house doesn't burn down

[golden thorn]

Buy a few cheap smoke alarms as well.

[viral thunder]

iformacion de esp32

[half raptor]

So I need a door sensor, but for an outside gate, are those a thing? Its not as clean a seal as a door either.

[patent river]

Any particular protocol you'd like it to talk?

[half raptor]

Zigbee preferred, wifi is also totally acceptable, hell I'll get a zwave adapter just for it if it'll work well. The tolerances have to be "looser" as our gate is further apart than most interior doors

[patent river]

Hrm. So that didn't turn up a lot.
The IP-rated version of a reed switch often looks like this: https://www.botnroll.com/en/compass/4341-magnetic-switch-reed-sensor-black.html
Finding one pre-wired to a Zigbee something or other wasn't proving simple, but you could get a switch like that and attach it to anything you like.

I'm using a couple of these (garage, glasshouse) which are IP67 rated: https://www.milesight.com/iot/product/lorawan-sensor/em300-mcs

But LoRa is probably not a path you want to go down, to be honest

[half raptor]

Also, unrelated, Shelly is having a black friday sale, I enjoy my smart plugs from them, but for other sensors, is there a better place to get things like sensors or relays?

I know they're wifi, not zigbee, but honestly I don't have a zigbee bridge setup yet, and the pricing is reasonable