hardware-archived

[devout parrot]

Yeah

[rugged oasis]

hi I'm thinking of getting a smart plug with power monitoring to use with a 1400w air fryer.. is it a good idea? heard sustained high loads on a smart plug isn't a good idea.. thanks .. would like to detect when it's done etc.. might do it with some kind of mic/video instead

[zealous dune]

that won't be an issue for power monitoring plugs

[rugged oasis]

thanks

any particular one you would recommend? was thinking of the kasa kp115

[tacit pilot]

I have a small fluorescent light over my sink. Looking to see if there's a drop in smart replacement? Looks like this:
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQjaHiBMES8Uz8aMMwOy55kz0i6CHRBIwv5VNZRhAxFm-YDgfF28s1fJE3R70LJfXRi4pZgPvv1Va8yQK0dkaPkCDIliw73

[uncut badger]

can be troublesome. there's normally a choke involved.

[tacit pilot]

What's a choke?

[uncut badger]

and normally you'd just get an LED bulb for it. I can't think of any smart ones.

[tacit pilot]

Yeah idc what kind of bulb it is, as long as I can take this fluorescent one out and slot in a smart one

[uncut badger]

also known as a ballast or starter.

They're there to provide a higher voltage.

[tacit pilot]

Ah yes, there is a ballast

[uncut badger]

that would get in the way 😦 There are replacements which pretty much just bridge it.

[tacit pilot]

But the actual bulb just comes out. So if there's something smart that's compatible to slot in, that would be nice. Doesn't seem like something like that exists though

[uncut badger]

but I don't know of any smart replacement

[tacit pilot]

Yeah, I mean there's possible the option of just controlling the circuit at the source, but a smart bulb would be nice if it exists

https://www.amazon.ca/LOHAS-Daylight-LED-LED-Light-Tube-Assistant/dp/B08181SN7W

closest I've come from researching

Yeah, it's just not a thing it seems

[twin acorn]

Are there any smart plugs that can show energy usage on a plug like this it’s for a dryer (in us)

[glacial oracle]

From what I heard about US dryers so far, maybe a clamp on one is safer to operate

[wild atlas]

Clamp on at the breaker, don't try to put a smart plug in on a 2kw appliance

[devout parrot]

Just get a Shelly EM. Install at the breaker or use ring terminals to install it directly in the back of the dryer.

[devout parrot]

Remove ballast, retrofit for direct wire LED tubes, put in some kind of smart switch.

[tacit pilot]

Well yeah I can just remove the ballast, but that's fairly destructive in this case since it's attached to the cabinet above the sink and there's just wires coming out of the wall and going into it. I'm also a renter

I think next I'll try opening up the switch and maybe putting like a shelly in the wall to control it that way. Or get a switchbot to press the switch

[fallow cape]

Does anyone have any ideas for a sensor solution that would be feasible for monitoring the temperature of a pan on the stove?

Ideally some sort of IR thermometer based measurement rather than contact..

[gusty sequoia]

If you're comfortable with DIY it looks like the mlx90614 infrared thermometer is supported by ESPHome, so that could maybe be made to work

looks like the field of view for that is relatively large which could make for a little challenge to not have it right on top of the pan

[patent river]

Emissivity is a problem. Should work for cast iron, probably would for teflon pans. Stainless steel though is basically a mirror for IR light, you'd pretty much be measuring the temperature of the rangehood.

https://www.flukeprocessinstruments.com/en-us/service-and-support/knowledge-center/infrared-technology/emissivity-metals
Emissivity of 0.35, y'ain't getting a good non-contact reading from that

[ruby socket]

Can Sonos brand speakers/microphones allow for local voice fulfillment? i.e. local voice control of Tuya smart lights in a house, so I don't have to be reliant on latency to google home servers

[fallow cape]

I generally use teflon/nonstick which would be my intention - IR thermometers work reliably for them.

but yeah stapling that onto an esp would probably the most viable option unless I want to muck around with thermal cameras

[patent river]

I mean in some regards it basically is a 1×1 pixel thermal camera 😄

[rain wedge]

Hi I am running my home assistant setup on ubuntu with docker. I have a DLINK WIFI USB dongle that i would like to use to connect to my solar inverter internal network. Path to device is DEVNAME=/dev/bus/usb/001/008 interface name is wlx6429430aae44, I am able to connect to wifi from ubuntu using nmcli. I am running home assistant container in network_mode: host. When i run ifconfig from containter console i can see wlx6429430aae44 interface with IP assigned. Unfortunately this connection is not visible in home assistant GUI and the only one i have available is my ethernet connection. From what i understand network_host shuld allow home assistant to see that device/connection, but for some reason its not working.

[vapid socket]

What can I do with my old tuya gateways? I have three of them lying around doing nothing 😆

[zealous dune]

which gateways?

[carmine solstice]

I'm looking for a google nest smart speaker that i can connected any type of speaker to or PoE speaker for HA...

maybe the sonos Amp is just what i'm looking for...

[warm birch]

I just bought a random zigbee mmWave sensor which says it needs to be setup using Smart Life. I don't have a gateway registered in the smart life app as this is directly connected to home assistant. I managed to discover the device using ZHA but it doens't give any entities worth using... what should next steps be?

[winged knoll]

You wanted the #zigbee-archived channel

They can help you with quirks

[warm birch]

cheers

[karmic cargo]

If you're having the slightest thought of digging into that receptacle, please plan on replacing it with a proper 4-wire, grounded receptacle (including running new wiring to it). New installations of these have been banned in the US since 1996, and where initially outlawed in 1966! This is hot-hot-neutral and has no protective ground. If the neutral is disconnected for any reason (like a failure), the chassis of your dryer becomes energized at 240v. That's a Bad Thing™.

[silk snow]

any good open-source-ish wifi battery cam you guys might recommend? this is a specific use one for 20-minutes-ish in the car when the bab is asleep during winter so we can have a cup of tea!

currently using an old old blink cam, and sticking that on my Alexa Show, but it's got a few seconds of a delay and turns off every few minutes with a "Buffering..." issue

I wouldn't mind looking at a few other cams you guys recommend, because I'd like to have a security one set up outside the house at some stage in the future, after a slightly unpleasant incident

[nimble grotto]

Keep in mind when you choose something that many cameras can function with a powerbank attached to them.
I use an old Xiaomi 1080p cam which I reflashed with the following: https://github.com/telmomarques/xiaomi-360-1080p-hacks

I added it to HA with webRTC

[silk snow]

now that's something I 100% had not at all thought of, and was VERY much limiting my options. a powerbank, of course a powerbank would do it

[nimble grotto]

Good luck finding something to your likings

[proud moat]

hi, not sure where this should go but, i have ha running as a vm on esxi 8 on a n100 mini pc, is it normal for a new instance of HAOS with a bare config to start the gui to have 6-7% usage?

[winged knoll]

#installation-archived would be the channel (read the topic here), but ... almost certainly

[proud moat]

thanks, i will ask my question again over there

[worn musk]

Does anyone know if i wanted to program a shelly i4, if i cut a wire and connect it to 220v from the outlet, i wont destroy it? Cus there is no way for me to know whats L and whats N, its just AC, alternating 😐 makes no sense to me smh

[winged knoll]

You probably don't want to mess with mains if you don't understand the difference

[worn musk]

Well, there is no way for me to know regardless, cus the wire I have has no ground so i couldnt even measure anything with a multimeter
I just dont know if the shelly would survive if the wires would be the other way around

[gloomy spoke]

I feel like the emoji in your username is apropos here

[nova pawn]

takes a deep breath

nope. I can't.

[jagged crypt]

knowing what you don't know is important

[terse pebble]

You have to believe in yourself

[jagged crypt]

confidence doesn't mean knowing what you don't know

[terse pebble]

But you will fail gracefully

[jagged crypt]

maybe we're saying the same thing and lost in language.

but confidence and ignorance can look remarkably like the same thing.

[terse pebble]

Indeed

But I'm still curious what he can't

[jagged crypt]

hot wire, neutral wire, ground wire? (return wire, traveller wire)

[terse pebble]

[jagged crypt]

oh and geo differences 🙂

[bitter zenith]

Apollo Automation offers the MSR-1, the smallest mmWave CO2 Multisensor on the market. While it doesn't include PIR, both we and our beta testers have found that it's not really necessary. Please let us know your thoughts and if you have any more questions! https://shop.apolloautomation.cloud/

You can look into Apollo Automations offering here: #hardware-archived message

[bitter zenith]

A few of our users have talked about putting their MSR-1 on the ceiling but I am not sure if we have any data yet. Look into the Apollo Automation MSR-1 mmWave CO2 Multisensor and let us know what you think. It is the smallest offering on the market and it uses the LD2410. The datasheet for this sensor shows it mounted on the ceiling. See the attached picture.
https://shop.apolloautomation.cloud/

[abstract bobcat]

Does anyone know how I can most cheaply handle a lighting circuit with 3 physical switches going to 2 lightbulbs. The extra tricky part is the 2 lightbulbs are Kauf bulbs, which I want to keep so we can change the brightness and temperature of the light. That means I'll need it to have some sort of "smart bulb mode" where power always goes to the bulb, and I tell the smart bulbs to turn on/off from HA, which should get an event from the light switches on toggle. I'd prefer toggle over paddle and have a zigbee hub but not a z-wave hub.

I have in my position a shelly 1 and a couple zonoff zbminis. I don't think the former would work with 3 physical switches though, let alone while in smart bulb ("detached") mode, and I don't think the latters will work because they are designed to not require a nuetral wire, so they can't have a detached mode (I have nuetral wires though)

The inovelli blue series looks promising, it's just so expensive and I wouldn't want to spend $150 for one lighting circuit!

[twin acorn]

yeah this house is probably from the 50s based on how some of the other electrical is done we are moving soon though so im probably not going to mess with anything.

[patent river]

@abstract bobcat Normally what you do is wire the output of your N-way circuit into the input of a smart relay (and then if you're not doing what you're doing, the output from the relay to the bulb).
The way a 3-way circuit works is basically the same as a 2-way at the two ends, and only differs in the middle. There's a different kind of switch with 4 contacts (vs 3 on the end switches), you might find it called an "intermediate" or something similar.
Far as I know, the Shelly should be a suitable device to receive that input (on the "SW" terminal). The difficulty might be in finding a point in the circuit at which you have all three of permanent phase, switched phase, and neutral at which to install it.

[abstract bobcat]

I'm not quite sure I follow (a lot of this is a bit over my head, and I'm just trying to learn enough to know what to buy and then describe to electricians to actually perform the work. Although I've had already trouble with them not being familiar with shellys and stuff like "detached mode"). To clarify, are you saying I could potentially handle the entire circuit with just the shelly if I can find a point at which I have the permanent phase, switched phase, and neutral wires?

Because if so that would actually be phenomenal, since we'd get to keep the existing switches, which match the rest of the house

[patent river]

In theory, yes

[patent river]

I'm fairly sure it goes like this, for what you're asking.
You'd still connect the bulb to the Shelly (because that still lets you cut power to it), but the Shelly would be in detached mode so the switch doesn't control the relay

The normal power through the 3-way switch circuit is used as the "SW" input, so the Shelly knows if the light should be off or on, and HA can use that input

[fringe crater]

I have a hard time to believe that would be a plausible scenario to have wires like that.

[upper yoke]

is having an rtl433 with long antennas in my bedroom safe for my health? plan on 365 days a year uptime forever.

[patent river]

That is the problem, yes. Depending on how your house is wired, there's a very good chance the two ends of the circuit are in no way positioned such that they're easy to connect to one another.

This page does suggest an alternative "single ended" wiring design, but as it requires it to be wired with more expensive 4-conductor ("3C+E") cable, chances are it won't be done that way
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/2_Way_Switching#Three_Way_.28or_more.21.29_Switching

[worn musk]

just never had to care about that in the past
need dc? transfo, bridge recrifier and a cap
or a zero crossing detector with opto, also doesnt care
take literally any appliance ever, u plug it in however u want
but suddently to power a shelly I need to do it correctly smh
btw, im not even switching any relays, this is just a shelly i4, input reader device

[jagged crypt]

https://www.energy.gov/articles/war-currents-ac-vs-dc-power

[idle shoal]

I'm looking for recommendations for Z-Wave smart lock. The reviews are all over the place

[terse pebble]

#zwave-archived can help

[idle shoal]

Yeah ... asked there too

[deep wadi]

Looking for suggestions on water leak detectors, I would have no preference between Zwave and Zigbee and have dongles for both. Linkind LS21001 was suggested but it seems to have been scrubbed from the Internet basically.

[idle shoal]

I'm using the Zigbee Third Reality 3RWS18BZ. Inexpensive, have built-in audible alarm, use AAA batteries. I have 10, and not one has gone "missing". They look kind of goofy teardrop shape but seem solid

[deep wadi]

Not the same model number but I assume this would be good then, https://www.amazon.ca/THIRDREALITY-Detection-Notifications-Compatible-SmartThings/dp/B09XDP2LZF?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1?

[idle shoal]

Yeah .. that's the one ...3RWS18BZ is what they register as in HA

[worldly thistle]

any recommendations for a cloudless outdoor wifi plug or even better an affordable zigbee outdoor plug? 230V EU version 🙂

[fallow estuary]

Any recommendations for an alarm system with the best integration? I'm looking for a "Plug and Play" system rather than a bunch of sensors and Alarmo, only because the primary need for the security system is "ease of mind" from the wife. She's going to feel more confident if we have a branded system rather than some thing I rig together that functions the exact same.

[worldly thistle]

just found zigbee ones from silvercrest for 16.99€ (limited time offer), I'm satisifed 😄

[deep wadi]

Thank you

[devout parrot]

If you're in the US or UK, I've been pretty happy with SimpliSafe. Integration works great, as far as arming/disarming I don't even bother with the official app anymore I just use the card in HA, and the devs are quick to fix any problems, which is far as problems go the only major one I can think of was one that SimpliSafe caused.

[fallow estuary]

I was leaning in that direction. Do you have access to the sensors individually? For example can you see the door state?

[devout parrot]

Yeah. State comes from the cloud so it can take 10-15 seconds to update sometimes but you can see each sensor individually.

[plucky coral]

These decent bulbs?
https://amzn.to/49kTU5o

[golden thorn]

Please don't use shortened links: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TL498WM

[jagged crypt]

i think "adequate" is probably a better description. They work, not sure on color rendition if that matters to you. They are wifi 2.4 only. They do work in HA without any issues, without cloud interface, but you need to set them up initially with the wiz-app.

I put ~20 wiz downlights, because I got them at around $8/each vs $50/each for hue lights, as I have hue bulbs, but the house I just bought had downlights in every room, so my imported bulb lights weren't as useful 😦

If you want to use a bunch, would suggest seeing if you can turn off broadcasts to communicate with them, which is how i solved a random latency issue that i was seeing with automations.

[viscid path]

hello, I'm looking for a pressure sensor that I could mount on a 1/2 thread (pipe), I could reduce it to anything, but I don't know who sells such a sensor - does anyone know what to use? it would measure up to 3 bar

[winged knoll]

#diy-archived can help if you tell them where in the world you are

[viscid path]

thank you

[plucky coral]

I need extra light by my desk in my bedroom after we painted it a darker color. I don't want to go with the 20 a piece hue bulbs

[fallow estuary]

Hmm was hoping it was slightly faster but expected the delay. Was hoping I could leverage a simplisafe door sensor to turn on a light in a mudroom, likely just going to go with with an ESP motion sensor for that then. Thanks @devout parrot

[devout parrot]

It varies and it's fine for some automations, but anything I need a reliably fast response from I use Zigbee.
you can also monitor the door sensors with rtl_433, but since the message is encrypted and the sensor sends a periodic heartbeat to the base station, you can't reliably determine the actual state of the sensor. Hopefully there's a way to figure that out eventually but that might just undermine the entire point of the security system depending on how that works.

[plucky coral]

How about these for standard white bulbs?
https://www.amazon.com/WiZ-Dimmable-Daylight-5000K-Smart/dp/B0CGNCG2SZ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=LHD4SE37X6NL&keywords=wiz%2Blight%2Bbulbs&qid=1698842643&s=hi&sprefix=wiz%2B%2Ctools%2C95&sr=1-8&th=1

[fallow estuary]

I'm working to get away from them, as most of the products don't play super well with HA, but if you're looking for cheap only white bulbs, just throwing Wyze out there.

White Only - https://www.wyze.com/products/wyze-bulb-white ~$8.50USD per bulb
Color - https://www.wyze.com/products/wyze-bulb-color - ~$12USD per bulb

Each are cheaper if you buy more, those are the 2 packs.

The Wyze integration has been hit or miss, but the lights have worked flawlessly for me.

Other cheap option that's zigbee compatible would be the ikea tradfri bulbs?

[plucky coral]

I have three ZigBee bulbs now, I have to power cycle them every time I update them otherwise restart my HA docker container or I can't control them.

Maybe it's just my Sengled bulbs?

[fallow estuary]

Interesting. I'm not sure how the Wyze bulbs work on the backend, but with HA they are extremely fast, and have never given me any trouble.

[devout parrot]

Could be a Sengled problem. If you bring it up in #zigbee-archived someone will probably help you figure that out.
If you want WiFi bulbs, Athom makes some pretty good ones that are preflashed with the open source firmware of your choice. I replaced my Tuya based Cree bulb with their 15W RGBCCT a couple weeks ago and it's legit so far.

[cold moon]

fwiw athom are using sengled bulbs

at least according to their MAC address

[devout parrot]

Interesting. I haven't personally had any issues with my Sengled Zigbee bulbs and the LEDs are fine, but a lot of people seem to.

[cold moon]

they're bad at transitions

and dont act as repeaters/routers for zigbee

[devout parrot]

I wonder if that means that Sengled's WiFi bulbs are easily flashable.

[cold moon]

so not ideal for a lot of situations

[cold moon]

thehookup has a video on it i think. he came into wled discord a few years ago asking about flashing 1mb and 2mb fw on various wifi bulbs

[fiery raptor]

any suggestions for an air quality monitor?

[pseudo flicker]

Apologies if this has been asked, but does anyone have a reccomendation for a rotary remote control? Basically, in my kids' rooms I have installed smart lamp dimmers, but they need a control to actually dim them. I was thinking of doing the touch panel thing, but with something like a sconce, that's kind of annoying, since it's for reading in bed. I did buy one, but it seems like it's unsupported at this time by HA, and when I look at the events, there doesn't seem to be the required information for me to even write the code to determine dim level

[warm helm]

I'm wiring the 2-gang version of Moes WiFi switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLNCG2TN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 S2 controls a dumb light bulb and works fine. For S1 there is a smart bulb (because I have a motion sensor setting it to 1% brightness at night so I don't get blinded) so I have power going directly to the light and I've just got the outgoing lead from the button capped. I thought to have HA detect a tap on the switch and tell the bulb to toggle. But HA never receives a "turned on or off" event. Which got me wondering does the switch actually need to observe a change in the draw before it sends the event? Do I need to have that lead actually power ... something ... just so I can detect the button tap?

[jagged crypt]

Then I would look at getting something other than 60watt equivalent.... After that, decide on protocol, color, and/or cost. The difference in price at 2-3 bulbs isn't much, and your time an energy hacking at getting something working may not be worth it. I bought into Wiz because I was buying 20 recessed lights, so the delta was more than a couple hundred.

[coral solstice]

I'm trying to set up my 12V RGBW LED cabinet lights (LED, but not a strip). The lights have 5 wires for power+, R-, G-, B-, and W- and they're purely analog. What's the best way to get these set up with an ESP32 running WLED? I know how to connect digital LED strips, but I'm assuming I need some sort of controller or MOSFET (?lost on the use of these?). Any help would be appreciated as my google-fu is failing me it seems.

[boreal sierra]

@coral solstice check in with the WLED server as well if your still struggling. I’ve bounced between here and there on a bunch of projects. Both amazing groups and lots of help.

[coral solstice]

thanks, will do! As I'm now reading up on MOSFETs, it looks like that's what I'll need to set up.

[devout parrot]

If you want a prebuilt solution running wled, pick up an Athom LS-5P.

[coral solstice]

I have some ESP32s I'm already using for LED strips since the cabinets currently have standard white analog cabinet lights as well as plain analog white LED strips. Hoping to just use the same hardware (with whatever else I need for the analog light controls)

[boreal sierra]

Picking up a $5 part can sometimes save you days of headaches trying to get something working.

However it’s understandable trying to use what you have first. Hope you can get it up and running

[coral solstice]

very true, let me take a look at the Athom. I have a couple of their smart plug devices. Thanks for the suggestion!

[coral solstice]

Looking at that device, it looks like it's a digital controller (unless I'm missing something). The cabinet lights I have are analog

[zealous dune]

you need an ESP with appropriate mosfets that will control the PWM signal

its not as easy as an addressable strip

[coral solstice]

Yeah, I've come to realize that really quickly 😄 I was having trouble finding cabinet light hardware that is RGBW with 12v of the right hole size. Maybe I'll start looking down that path again in parrallel to see if I can find a digital version of the same light

[zealous dune]

SK6812 strips

[coral solstice]

that's a good idea. I may be able to just open up the casing of the original lights and use them to house the SK6812.. time to take it down and open it up

that would simplify everything so much more

[zealous dune]

they won't be good main lighting, they're intended for effects and ambiance

[coral solstice]

that's what these cabinet lights are used for.. 2" lights

not main cans in the room itself

opening up one of the lights, they have 12 LEDs. Perhaps I'll look for circular form factor pixels to fit in the casing

[coral solstice]

just to wrap this up, I just bought one of these to test out in my existing enclosures... https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805227454991.html SK6812 WW color, I got a 16 LED and 8LED ring to play with all options that fit in my housing.

[plucky coral]

Right now I have a mix of Hue and TP-Link Kasa bulbs. It appears the TP-Link ones have been renamed Tapo? And we are looking at adding some accent LED light strips in the kitchen above the cabinets

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/bOGUn.gif

[jagged crypt]

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wth-is-there-no-home-assistant-logs-to-remote-syslog-integration/473949/31 - not the answer for the question that was deleted

[full geyser]

Unsure if this is the right place for this, but i've done a bunch of searching and found answers that don't quite meet what I'm trying to accomplish.
I want to move just the logs to a secondary spinning rust drive, but leave the addons and other day to day stuff on the SSD.
Hardware is a Lenovo tinypc m700 (i5-6500T, 16gb ram, 128gb m.2 ssd [HAOS] 500gb mechanical drive.)

Is this possible?

accidentally deleted it trying to edit it.

[jagged crypt]

you want to repartition the HAOS if that's what you are using. If you are running it differently, you may be able to do it easier

"doing it" and "doing it within the confines of the UI" are two different answers, also

[full geyser]

its got a 128gb m.2 ssd as a boot drive, and theres a completely unused 500gb spinning rust drive

is it possible within the confines of the ui?

[jagged crypt]

running HAOS? i don't think so

[full geyser]

the only option i saw was to move the entire data to the secondary drive

[jagged crypt]

https://developers.home-assistant.io/docs/operating-system/partition

are you doing this for space reasons?

[full geyser]

im trying to make sure that i dont have to reconfigure it too extensively later, as there is only a 128gb ssd. since theres a 500gb hdd in the machine anyway, i figured that would be a good place to store the logs

current devices are around 20 philips hue bulbs, 7 google nest mini, 2 google nest hub and an assortment of iphones/ipads (around 10 or so)

before I've added anything to it its already utilising 4.5% of the ssd

[jagged crypt]

are you running it in a VM, or bare?

[full geyser]

bare metal

[jagged crypt]

would suggest a VM to help with this later, but you could also invest in larger m.sata

and backup/restore

[full geyser]

that was a thought, but as i said, theres already 500gb of space there, and i was hoping to just offload the logs to that, while leaving the primary stuff including addons on the ssd for the speed

[jagged crypt]

so "no" is the simple answer

from my understanding from the UI, "data" all or nothing

[full geyser]

hmm ok

guess its time to start tinkering

[jagged crypt]

getting a 256 or 512 replacement drive may be cheaper than you think

[full geyser]

yeah, but its also christmas shipping and this is going to rural australia, so its at a minimum going to be 2-3 weeks shipping.

[jagged crypt]

I'm running 50 lights or so, some basic automation, and a 32gig drive partition...

and swapped to mariadb

i think i have 8gig free

[full geyser]

I'm also in the process of offloading some of the home automation from a synology nas to the bare metal box, my aim is to not have to rebuild it from the gorund up in less than a year.
had several issues previously with a NUC and a pi4 keeping up so this is the next step.

[calm quiver]

Hi, I bought four Tapo smart plugs. Two have broken in the first two years. I have a zigee controller. I wondered if someone could recommend me another type of fairly cheap plug. Thanks!

[winged knoll]

What country?

[calm quiver]

in the united kingdom

[winged knoll]

Innr, not cheap (£20 each) but they are rock solid

[calm quiver]

ok thanks, let me know if you have any other cheaper suggestions too (I was hoping for about £12 max as that is how much the Tapo ones were but maybe I get what I pay for)

[winged knoll]

Well... buy cheap, buy twice

[calm quiver]

yup!

[winged knoll]

The Tradfri plugs are cheaper

[calm quiver]

ok, I'll take a look 🙂

[winged knoll]

(they're also big and ugly by comparison, but if price is the key factor then they're a reasonable choice)

[calm quiver]

oh yes, they are huge!

do they do zigbee? Maybe it doesn't matter as much with the plugs as lights and other sensors

[winged knoll]

They are zigbee

[calm quiver]

ah great, thanks Tinkerer 🙂

[fallow cape]

is anyone aware of any sort of USB HAT for a pi zero 2 w? I see them for the first board but the 2 has the USB data and USB power jacks swapped places..

[fallow cape]

or perhaps aware of why these seemingly don't exist for the zero 2

[jagged crypt]

i think the usb ports are the same

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5F3trKQaZo - complains about pogo pin connections

[fallow cape]

unless I'm misunderstanding you, he only seem to talk about the pogo pins - but as far as I know, the pi won't power up with power supplied to the data port, only the one labelled power (my guess would be due to power negotiation over USB?)

My board matches his but if you compare with a zero 1 board, the power and data ports are swapped

[jagged crypt]

my pi zero w powers op on both, but the power input is the same location on both, the far edge

https://www.adafruit.com/product/3400 & https://www.adafruit.com/product/5291 have detailed pictures, in both case the micro-usb on the far right is labeled "PWR IN"

[fallow cape]

oh the thing I was looking at is soldered to BOTH, I just wasn't looking closely enough 🤦‍♀️

thank you

saw the D+ and D- pins and I was like well shucks they moved it between generations

and didn't see the other two

[jagged crypt]

whatever image you posted up isn't really a "hat" either

[fallow cape]

I think it has to use the 40 pin to be considered a hat but yeah

lack of a word for Thing That Bolts Onto Pi

[gloomy spoke]

it looks like a modchip for an XBox or Playstation from back in the day

[fallow cape]

basically I am just in search of an easy way of supplying power to these to do bluetooth presence tracking without a giant wall wart and permafixed micro b connector

something to plug into the wall outlet and done

[worldly thistle]

i'm running a couple of aqara plugs for over 2 years now, none has failed yet and one is even outside with big temperature differences, they are not cheap anymore though 😕

[mental reef]

Hmm what part broke? I have 4 tapo P110 and 5 tapo P100s. The relay in one of the P110s stopped working. I'm still using it for the power meter. It broke inside the warranty but I didn't chase it.

[jagged crypt]

$25, poe powered - https://store-us.gl-inet.com/products/gl-s10-bluetooth-iot-gateway

[mental reef]

I use some of the IKEA Zigbee sockets. Compared to the tapo WiFi you had before they don't do any power monitoring, don't have a physical on/off button and can't keep any scheduled events on the device (you'd use home assistant/your zigbee hub for the schedules). They do seem to be reliable zigbee routers - my battery powered end devices seem to prefer using the IKEA sockets for routing rather than the tuya sockets that I also have, especially my aqara weather sensors. (And you will need to have set up some way to control Home Assistant remotely if you want that, the tapo app has built in remote control for the wifi devices)

[hard marten]

I'm in the US and I've been buying Shelly plugs for my various devices. I have one outlet that I need to plug in two devices into. I like the fact that they are local devices, not cloud-based. I understand Shelly doesn't make dual outlet plugs (no, I don't want two plugs), so is there a dual outlet plug (US) that is not cloud-based? What would you folks recommend?

[cold moon]

https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen20-power-strip/ there's this for zwave

[boreal sierra]

can anyone recommend a zigbee rgb lightbulb, which isn't hue, and will work with HA that retains its last state before a power outage. i get a lot of power flickers in the winter and i want to change my 4 ceiling lights in the bedrooms.

not nanoleaf, though i believe they are Bluetooth and thread, but they have given me nothing but issues.

[coral solstice]

I like the Sengled lights. I have the E11-N1EA and E1F-N5E) https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/E11-N1EA.html#sengled-e11-n1ea and https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/E1F-N5E.html#sengled-e1f-n5e

I use them on outdoor sconces that are themselves attached to smart switches that turn them off (hence the bulbs spend the daytime with no power)

[boreal sierra]

so the E11-N1EA ones have the "retain state" from a power outage?

[cold moon]

Id suggest avoiding sengled zigbee

[boreal sierra]

theyve been my most functioning devices on my system, just the ones i have dont have that option, i didnt know they had others

remember when you were helping with my zigbee setup we talked about these? i had em all running off the hub, and then threw them onto the zigbee stick

i dont entirely remember though why it would be best to avoid them. i had looked into upgrading/switching a while back and i cant find anything i may have written down. the only bulbs i currently have that will stay off if they were off before the power outage are the nanoleaf bulbs, but out of 12 that i had, only 2 still work (sometimes).

thanks @coral solstice for the suggestions

[coral solstice]

I'm curious as to why you say that. I have 15 of them and they seem to work just fine for me. Anecdotal of course.

[hard marten]

Thanks for that suggestion. I didn't even consider smart power strips.

[pseudo flicker]

Does anyone have any experience getting encryption keys using this method? https://custom-components.github.io/ble_monitor/faq#how-to-get-the-mibeacon-v2v3-encryption-key -- I'm a little confused as to where I should run this. I tried running it on the Home Assistant VM, but it doesn't seem to work

[zealous dune]

use the Xiaomi Cloud Tokens Extractor option, its more straightforward and works in windows

[pseudo flicker]

I'm on a Mac, unfortunately, and also this is for a dimmer, so my understanding is that it's not connected to the cloud, right?

[zealous dune]

that does change things

you run the script wherever you have python installed

[pseudo flicker]

I can't seem to install Bluepy

I don't think the other servers have a bt adapter, so I'm trying to figure out what to do!

Maybe I'd need to make a local VM to my Mac, and then share the BT adapter?

What a pain in the butt, though!

[zealous dune]

i'd say plug a bt adapter into your mac and run python from there

[pseudo flicker]

an adapter? it has bt, the issue is I can't install the required Python lib

Going to try this method quick, see if that does it. https://github.com/IanHarvey/bluepy/issues/404

Nope, no go

Damn

[steel prairie]

anyone tried Intel BE200 adapter on debian 11? Does it work?

[vital shale]

homeassistant is not supporting it I think. At least i've not been successful

[uncut ridge]

Anyone use WiZ lights? any good? jw

[cedar tiger]

I have two identical version instances of HA running on two Raspberry Pi 4B's.
One consistently shows all available hardware in config/hardware/ALL HARDWARE, the other consistently shows only gpiochip 0, gpiochip 1, mice, ttyACM0 and ttyAMA0. The first one is running from a hard disk and the other from SD card - might that, for some reason, cause the difference?
I also have another version on VirtualBox, which does show all hardware.
Any ideas on this??

[jagged crypt]

I have ~20 wiz downlights due to discounts (older models, no bt. and some newer ones). They work fine, but i experienced some latency in triggering them based on motion sensors until I changed my network config slightly (disabling broadcast packets from my ubiquiti setup). The network changes solved my network latency issues.

[uncut ridge]

Im just looking for a good bright smart bulb, i see they work in HA locally, so are they actually good lights?

[jagged crypt]

as to color rendition, brightness, skim youtube

If you want bright, good, the 1600lm hue lights are nice (no color, etc). I use them in my kitchen.

[uncut ridge]

shooting more for budget. i cant afford 20 hue bulbs lol

[jagged crypt]

how many do you need?

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Bluetooth-compatible-Assistant/dp/B08BNM55KD is the one i was referencing

[uncut ridge]

wtf the color version is $65 ?

[jagged crypt]

this gets discussed sometimes also, wifi - https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/15w-color-bulb

if you don't actually need color, the hue bulb works, and $22 isn't horrible

[uncut ridge]

i was using wyze bulbs, but they arent HA friendly

[jagged crypt]

also, fyi, the brighter LED bulbs are normally larger:

my experience 60watt equivalent bulbs are dim, unless you are buying many of them

[uncut ridge]

how many lumens are wiz

[jagged crypt]

all depends

looks like they sell 650-800-1600 lumen bulbs

800lumens = ~60 watts
1600lumens = ~100 watts

also remember the brightness is the "white" brightness, the colors are usually far less on these things

how many bulbs are you looking for?

[uncut ridge]

5 right now

[jagged crypt]

100 for wiz color vs 100 for hue white

[uncut ridge]

im confused. 1600 lumens is 100 watts? im looking at a 1100 lumen bulb from wyze and it says 12 watts

[jagged crypt]

incandescent "equivalent"

1100 lumens is 12 watts on led's as they are vastly more efficient than heating a filament

random website info:

anyways, $20 a bulb, color, white tunable, or white depending on brand. 🙂

[uncut ridge]

yeah its nice i just wish it was that price but for color

[jagged crypt]

it's why i got sale priced downlights, because white hue downlights were $47 each and color where $50, and i needed 20

[uncut ridge]

i like my 1100 lumen wyze color bulbs but i wanted something similar but more locally controlled

doesnt sound like anything exists

[jagged crypt]

$20 wiz color bulbs

[uncut ridge]

those look like 800 lumens for a 2 pack for $20

[jagged crypt]

https://www.wizconnected.com/en-us/p/modern-bulb-bulb-100w-a21-e26/046677603519

1600lm = $20

[uncut ridge]

why would it say 100W instead of the lumen value

[jagged crypt]

because target audience is used to the wattage in the "old way"

60/75/100 watt bulbs are what people are used to

https://www.amazon.com/WiZ-100W-14-5W-Color-Smart/dp/B09M7RGW96

if you are in the USA

[uncut ridge]

is this first review at all accurate from your experience?

[jagged crypt]

I don't have them, I have downlights, and i mostly use them for white, and they work, but as i said I had to modify my network config to get rid of latency.

https://www.amazon.com/WiZ-Connected-Color-Retrofit-Downlight/dp/B0B2B1STK4

[uncut ridge]

gotcha

anything weird with those besides your latency thing

[jagged crypt]

so to go back to the original question. Hue lights JUST WORK. Wiz lights may involve more hacking on your side.

[uncut ridge]

in what other ways besides latency?

[jagged crypt]

nothing i've noticed, but my use case is motion sensor on/off and not much else

[uncut ridge]

what motion sensor are you using in combination with that

[jagged crypt]

hue motion sensors through a hue hub to HA

I have a bunch of hue gear that i want firmware updates to work, and the hue hub is local connect

HA->hue hub stays local

[cold moon]

firmware updates work fine on z2m with hue products

[jagged crypt]

running ZHA

[cold moon]

personal choice

[jagged crypt]

should ahve them for zha at this point then, no?

zha is doing ikea button firmware upgrades

[cold moon]

you have to manually do them at this time

putting them in a directory or something

[jagged crypt]

with ZHA? I'll have to poke, it was auto updating that directory when i last checked

[cold moon]

yes

[jagged crypt]

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#ota-firmware-updates

[cold moon]

Note that the otau_directory setting is optional and can be used for any firmware files you have downloaded yourself, for any device type and manufacturer. For example, Philips Hue firmwares manually downloaded from here and/or here added to the otau_directory can be flashed, although a manual zha.issue_zigbee_cluster_command command currently (as of 2021.3.3) must be issued against the IEEE of the Philips Hue device under Developer Tools->Services, e.g.:

[jagged crypt]

so i get to manually discover the new firmware, and manually flash 🙂

but at least it works

i'll just leave the hub for now, it just works, and doesn't require a cloud round-trip to do anything

[uncut ridge]

i guess ill get 1 wiz bulb or so and see how it functions.

ive never heard of them but saw it at walmart out of nowhere

[cold moon]

https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2023/09/22/philips-hue-force-users-upload-data-to-cloud/

[jagged crypt]

that has nothing to do with controlling your lights

[cold moon]

Update Oct 2: In a conversation with The Verge, Philips Hue has announced that they will update their privacy policy to require users to consent to share their usage data with Philips Hue. luckily they backtracked a little

[jagged crypt]

and more importantly, CONTROLLING you lights is still HA->local hub->light

[cold moon]

their hub is objectively worse than via a zigbee coordinator for the hue bulbs and sensors so it's a moot point

[jagged crypt]

subjectively it works without a single issue for 4 years for me, with a couple years of HA in there also. So not high on my "fix-it" list. (fyi, i run ZHA + sonoff-e for sengled power monitoring plugs routing ikea/sonoff buttons as a parallel zigbee network. Luckily I also now live where 2.4 is NOT congested.)

[cold moon]

running multiple networks doesnt make much sense

i can add anything i want to my mesh with mostly hue bulbs as routers

and dont run into a 40ish device limit

and targeting 10+ devices at a time is now quicker / more in sync compared to the hue hub by using zigbee groups and a broadcast across the mesh

[jagged crypt]

when i hit the 40ish device limit in hue, I'll go down an convert over to single network. But right now, HA is doing what HA does, integrate and unify multiple things into a single control/dashboard, and doing it in a way that doesn't require me to fiddle with things.

looks like i'm at 33 hue lights + 10 motion sensors

[cold moon]

Mine started having issues around 40 bulbs maybe less and like three sensors

It was night and day when I moved to Zigbee2mqtt

Now I use a PoE zigbee coordinator

[jagged crypt]

haven't seen any issues at present, but understand expansion will result in modifications of configuration

[cold moon]

Moving over 40+ devices sucks lol

[jagged crypt]

right now I'm more tuning motion sensor locations due to new house

which resulted in more motion sensor purchases

[cold moon]

ah yea

[jagged crypt]

or more importantly having to potentially use two sensors in a single room

[cold moon]

prob could use mmwave and other sensors too

[jagged crypt]

yeah, i was looking for least fiddly mmwave

[drifting grove]

Hey everyone, my living room ZigBee PIR has false positives quite often in the morning between 3-5am. I know it's not someone because you couldn't get there without triggering several other devices as well. Can't be the cats as they are shut in one room overnight. The heating is on a lower temp overnight so doesn't come on. Sensitivity is set to medium. Any ideas?

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/ZG-204ZL.html#tuya-zg-204zl

[winged knoll]

Faulty device?

Sun?

[jagged crypt]

PIR basically are taking IR pictures and checking for diffs, does that make anything click?

[muted vault]

Greetings, can anyone point me to the right place to ask ESPHome questions? I would like to know more about how Improv LTE was setup and used in the HA Release Party yesterday.

[winged knoll]

Their Discord

[muted vault]

@winged knoll 🙂 What do I need in HA to use Improv LTE?

[winged knoll]

And ... why did you think that only I can help you @muted vault ?

ESPHome has their own Discord, you should ask questions about it over there

[jagged crypt]

Your neighborhood friendly discord channel

[uncut ridge]

I wish I could put these in the tiny fixture on my desk. They only support max of 10W SBLED, but it does say 60W type A so that confuses me. I can't find anything small for my desk that supports this high wattage of a bulb (14.5W). My only option would be to go back and get the 8.8W WiZ bulb. My tall lamps do support higher wattage though so they would work there. It's just the "on the desk" stuff.

[drifting grove]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a UK two way smart switch install? My kitchen has a switch at both entrances and either can control the light and I want to replace both of these with smart switches. I've replaced all the others but I'm struggling to get my head around the different conductors and their colours etc.

My switches need Live and switched Live, and they have an optional neutral which I've been attaching for the other ones because my house has neutral wiring at the light switches.

[winged knoll]

Vesternet has those

Google vesternet two way and you'll get the links you need

[drifting grove]

Thanks, that seems to be for in-wall switch module things using existing dumb switches. I have smart switches that replace the old switches

[jade jewel]

Is it possible to use something like a nest as a replacement for a tablet?

[winged knoll]

To what end?

[jade jewel]

Just want it to trigger some scenes for the room and basically use it as a replacement to the battery remote for my mini split (its integrated with wifi)

[winged knoll]

You can cast HA's display to it. You can integrate HA with Google Home and use any device exposed to Google Home.

[jade jewel]

I dont have any google devices just planning to put this on blanked switches to use as a remote

How does casting work?

Like does it go to a webpage? Cast sounds like streaming a video feed

I should clarify I meant the nest thermostat

[winged knoll]

Nest thermostat... well, that's not the Nest display

So... no, you can't, and if you'd opened with that it'd have saved time 😉

[jade jewel]

Yep sorry about that

[lofty socket]

Is there such a thing as a POE dongle with both zigbee and zwave?

[winged knoll]

No

[lofty socket]

What about just zwave? I know POE zigbee exists.

[winged knoll]

#zwave-archived would know

Your country will matter though

[cold moon]

Nope. I’ve heard stirs of prototypes but none to buy

You could use a pi or similar on PoE power with a dongle or hat on it

[lofty socket]

Ok, thanks. I'm ultimately looking to free up one of my Pi's moreso than utilize POE. I have one that's dedicated to just zigbee and zwave dongles.

Given it's a Pi4, it seems a bit overkill.

My server running HA is in a detached garage but the dongles need to be in the house.

[wraith oriole]

seeing this on console screen Bluetooth: hci0: Frame reassembly failed (-84). Should I worry about it?

[terse pebble]

#bluetooth-archived can tell

[jagged crypt]

I find it hard to believe you have fixtures that don't support 14watt bulbs, your phone charger uses more juice.

[uncut ridge]

the small table ones dont, the tall lamps do

[jagged crypt]

are they run with with aluminum foil for wiring?

[uncut ridge]

same bulb in tall lamp is about 150F on the side, in the table spotlight it gets to 180F

so im guessing its more to do with 'heat'

60W incandescent / 10W SBLED. the incandescent would output its heat differently than an LED bulb where that heat is focused on the side and not the top

it can definitely "run" the bulb, but im guessing shorter lifespan if you dont follow the label

[jagged crypt]

i ran two 60watt hue bulbs in an enclosed "nipple ceiling mount" for 4 years without issue, also ran a 1600lm one in one for similar time.

it's $20, if it shortens the life by a 50% do you care?

if it's going to set things on fire, obviously you should care

[uncut ridge]

the wires werent warm, just the side of the bulb

but i dont run it at the worst anyway (cool white at 100% uses max power)

[jagged crypt]

use some common sense (risk of fire vs risk of frying the bulb in a week)

[uncut ridge]

but it did take me by surprise

[uncut ridge]

i dont think it will fry it in a week but thats why i ordered an 800 lumen bulb to compare and see if it gets just as hot in the enclosed space.

[jagged crypt]

what lamp are you putting things in?

[uncut ridge]

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-7-5-Spotlight-Multipurpose-Accent-Lamp-Metallic-Black/1252233102?athbdg=L1600&from=/search

[jagged crypt]

The bigger 1600lm bulbs may stick out of the lamp

[uncut ridge]

yeah i wasnt going to put those in there anyway due to the heat

but its aimed at the wall so i dont care about sticking out

[jagged crypt]

it's open air, it's probably not going to matter

[uncut ridge]

i just prefer that over a lamp at my desk because i can direct the location of light vs a lamp shade going in all directions

unless i can find a tiny lamp for my table that doesnt look ugly. i have yet to

open for suggestions

[uncut ridge]

it is open air but tight space around it. gets warmer than an open air lamp unfortunately

[jagged crypt]

i would probably just put it in and see what happens, but your call. If you have a power drill, you could drill some additional air holes in the back. But again, I would just run it and see what happens.

[tacit pilot]

Any suggestion for a DIY thermostat wall plate? I basically just need a plastic plate with 3 holes, 2 for screws and 1 for the wire.

I could probably manage to just buy a plastic plate and punch the middle hole, but I don't have equipment for the more refined screw holes

[cold moon]

Make sure whatever it is has a fire safety rating like traditional light switch covers etc

[tacit pilot]

Didn't think that would apply for thermostat wiring?

[cold moon]

Thought you meant a plate for it to sit on the wall

[tacit pilot]

Yeah. I guess I thought thermostat wiring didn't have much electricity going through it as to where that would be a problem

Found this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Emerson-Thermostat-Wall-Plate-F61-2510/304571516
Not sure if the measurements are right

Don't see anything about a fire rating

[half raptor]

Ok y’all, question, you know of anyone have suggestions for a 2x smart switch that will simply fit in this spot? It’s probably the single most important switch I wanna automate in the house but it’s in a bit of a tight spot

[cold moon]

https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-z-wave-plus-s2-double-switch-zen30-white-for-light-fan-combo zwave but this works well. one of them can be up to a 3amp fan too

[half raptor]

Ohhh it is a fan/light combo, but I’m really hoping to go full zigbee

[cold moon]

lead with that lol

https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-Wireless-Requires-Connection-Automation/dp/B0B2J9YNMB

maybe that

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804197754290.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.25.2be27a0cm8XkUE&algo_pvid=c5df071f-56f4-4360-b809-839f1ece1081&algo_exp_id=c5df071f-56f4-4360-b809-839f1ece1081-12&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!20.86!14.6!!!20.86!!%402101d8f416990460273101436e1568!12000036177570936!sea!US!3005702917!&curPageLogUid=Q2XupQJ2eSVI or this

E1 is the new zigbee 3.0 version so i'd go with that

[half raptor]

I honestly spaced on their being multiple standards in the ecosystem, realized it when you suggested z wave

[cold moon]

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/QBKG41LM.html sorry this one with neutral is what i would personally get

[half raptor]

If there's a spot for these where they have dimensions so I can make sure they'll fit

I'll happily snag one of these shortly

ohh the Xiaomi one has dimensions on the aliexpress one

ok, the dimensions are the mounting box, which will definitely fit... if you know the full sized dimensions that would be rad

I'm poking around on the ali site and not seeing it yet, but this'll be the first time buying from Aliexpress so I may just not know my way around yet

AH! there it is. Dimensions: 86 x 86 x 30.15mm

Wait what? That’s kinda huge

That measurement is about 86mm

[cold moon]

shit u right

[wraith oriole]

rpi3 is running .8gb not sure why and getting out of memory errors in console screen

[golden thorn]

We don't either if you don't share more than that iota of information

[wraith oriole]

tried to install glances but failed probably out of memory

lot of processes are getting killed

switchin back to my old sd card to see if I still have the same problem

[golden thorn]

Run the commands I linked here then: <#installation-archived message>
docker stats and free -h. We should keep this in one channel.

[wraith oriole]

Another symptom when I reboot I get all the way to where it says startup is wrapping not everything will be available till finished and it does connections lost and starts all over

[jagged crypt]

2x of the lutron hue dials - https://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/SmartBulbDimmer/overview.aspx

1x worked for me quite well in a rental unit on a switch. Have a friend with a young child who complained that the child kept ripping them off. I never had that issue, but full disclosure.

solution is a bit different than maybe what you want, but does put a smart switch/dimmer there for you 🙂

[half raptor]

Ok this is interesting! But… how is it powered?

[jagged crypt]

battery, lasts over a year

[half raptor]

Hm, neat

[jagged crypt]

not as inexpensive as i would have wanted

and they are literlly just zigbee button/dial

[wraith oriole]

Ok this weird I switched back to my old sd card and when I check memory on it it is only running at .6gb the other sd car was a new install created from a full backup of the first sd card and the first sd card not getting any out of memory errors

[half raptor]

Lutron never is

But that is a neato product

Wait, I’d need to do that AND do some kind of switch/relay?

[jagged crypt]

well you have smart lights now, or just hoping to have a smart-switch? 🙂

[half raptor]

My goal in my house is smart switches, not smart bulbs

[jagged crypt]

you need more information, two different installs with two different configurations = 2 different memory utilizations.

Waffle, then the lutron isn't going to work

[half raptor]

Yeaaaa

Grumble grumble

I may take it off the switch panel and see if I can fit a relay in and just do it that way

[jagged crypt]

you probably have space in that area

[wraith oriole]

not different configurations one is literally a backup of the other

[jagged crypt]

obviously they are different

based on the output

[wraith oriole]

how can I find the difference?

[jagged crypt]

no clue, are these HAOS installs for a raspberry pi? you obviously added something causing memory issues or similar? As someone pointed out, you need to look at the logs, or in the difference between 0.6gigs of ram and 8gigs of ram of being used. Normally i would look at the process table, but that looks like it's not a trivial matter based on how the HAOS setup is.

[golden thorn]

It is trivial. Just need a monitor and keyboard

[wraith oriole]

@impact I installed glances and influxDB and I start them but then when I click on glances in the menu it says add-on is not running do I want to start it. I go check add-onsand sure enough its not running what am I missing

I got it working

[wraith oriole]

MEM is running around 80% and SWAP is at 98%

I'm running a 32gb sd card would going to larger SD card help

[frosty field]

No. You're running out of RAM, not SD space.

Raspberry Pi 3 has only 1 GB of RAM. Usually enough for HAOS.

One or more of your Add-ons might be using up your available RAM.

[wraith oriole]

Node Red seems to use a lot

[frosty field]

Ok. gotta go.

[golden thorn]

Please show the output of the commands I shared: <#hardware-archived message>

[frosty field]

This is good advice @wraith oriole

[jagged crypt]

influxdb + grafana crashed my pi3, but it was quite obvious that it was the cause, i thought you said you had an 8gig pi4?

[drifting grove]

Hey all, I've got this switch on a few lights in my house: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_switch.html#tuya-ts0601_switch

I've just installed it on another one but it won't pair with Zigbee2MQTT like all the others have. It controls the lights fine and goes into pairing mode but when I try to enable pairing on Z2MQTT, it never pairs and just times out

I've connected the live wires and the neutral wire correctly, and there are other ZigBee devices in that room that have a good signal, plus it's not very far from the ZigBee controller, or another switch in the next room that works as a router

[sage token]

Hi, I'm after suggestions for EU smart plugs. I want to communicate with them directly from HA (no internet/cloud needed). Currently I only have WiFi but I assume I should add Zigbee hub before I buy a load of plugs.

[glacial oracle]

for wifi the shelly plugs seem quite good, but they are more on the expensive side of things

[sage token]

Thanks, I'm just doing some research today. I am looking for a compact one.

[rich venture]

If you want real compact you could wire up shelly modules in the back of plugs you want to controll

[glacial oracle]

be aware that such solution may or may not fit or work inside your wall properly

[empty wadi]

Question for y'all - I want to replace 3 'dumb' Heatmiser zonal thermostats - and I'm trying to decide between using an array of thermostat readings (amazon air quality/echo/ other iot devices) and then using rated wifi switches for the 230v. The placement of the old thermostats is non-optimal, next to door, all crowded in areas that cross-heat (openish plan house)

Or would I just be miles better off with https://www.amazon.co.uk/Programmable-Thermostat-Remote-Control-Wireless/dp/B0CCP2RVK1 - which seems to be in-wall with remote thermometer

[glacial oracle]

It probably comes down to how much you want to build and automate around it yourself/ how much money it can reasonably cost

[empty wadi]

I'm happy to do some basics, but it's most going to be set and forget.

(21 degrees in each zone pre-dawn, 18 overnight)

[glacial oracle]

But does that even require any smart thermostat in that regard

Usually you can just set up those day and night times at the boiler

[empty wadi]

So... my set up is a bit funky - underfloor heating using the hot water outlet of a gas boiler set to 45c measured at the manifold outlet. So I have all zones on/off and per zone thermostat control.

the manifold doesn't talk to the switch

[glacial oracle]

So it only turns on and off globally if I understand that correctly?

[empty wadi]

Yep - this basically

So the logic in the smart version would be

IF ANY SUBZONE <DESIRED TEMP TURN ON ZONE1
IF ALL SUBZONE >=DESIRED TEMP TURN OFF ZONE1

I can control Zone1 with HomeAssitant already

[glacial oracle]

I see yea in that case it may be easier to do with smart temp meters indeed

[empty wadi]

Right now it's constant, but doesn't actually call the boiler as there's no loss of pressure in the system, so the boiler doesn't actually do anything.

[glacial oracle]

For me each of those rooms is its own heating zone and the boiler turns on based on return and outside temperature

[empty wadi]

Yeah, so this is a jerry rig system I think, 1 single return for all zones but the actuators are controlled via in-wall thermostats.

Leads to overheating sometimes, so I'd like to see I can program in some timers (if Kitchen on for 60 mins, off for 15, wait, temp low? on for 30 mins, wait)

Hoping with some actual data I can start to see things like outside temp, heating on, room temp what the correlations might be

(overheating by 1/1.5 degrees

[glacial oracle]

I could imagine you could go with a combination of both the in wall meters so you don't loose this way of controlling em, and have another temp sensor at a better location to sanity check and if there is need to override the in wall one

[empty wadi]

Yeah I was thinking that might be the shout

[glacial oracle]

Id may stay away from stuff with the Tuya label but besides that idk what to recommend as hardware for this

[empty wadi]

Yeah, would prefer something local not cloud based

[inland flicker]

hi, which zigbee usb dongle do you recommend?

[glacial oracle]

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#compatible-hardware
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended

[inland flicker]

thanks

[shadow parcel]

Running HA OS on HA Blue (Odroid N2+ with 128GB eMMC). Can anyone tell me where the other half of my storage is hiding?

[golden thorn]

Run that on the host itself with a keyboard and monitor or debug SSH access. You're in a container right now. <#general-archived message>

[shadow parcel]

What do you mean when you say debug SSH access?
Is there any way to do that remotely or do I need physical access with keyboard and monitor?

[golden thorn]

https://developers.home-assistant.io/docs/operating-system/debugging/#ssh-access-to-the-host
You need physical access

[white yew]

I have a pi 2 sitting unused, would that be sufficient to run home assistant for stuff not involving video?

[golden thorn]

I would say no but see here: https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/blob/dev/Documentation/boards/README.md#overview

[white yew]

yeah... I was kind of figuring that...

[sage token]

Yep don't need/want that compact. Just the smaller smart plugs that don't have that overhang and larger design

[nocturne dawn]

What do people like for presence / motion sensors? I was looking into getting some dedicated buttons set up at my desk to turn lights on and off and stopped myself, like, wait, why I am doing the robot's job?

Basically I have my desk next to my bed, and I'd like the lights to be high when I'm in my chair, and the lights to be low when I'm in my bed. I might get more complicated with the automation later on, but that's roughly the scenario.

(I'm pretty open to whatever options are out there - top candidate is one of those sparkfun 'person sensors' that spit out text data like
2 people, 1 I've seen before

)

[crude rune]

IR motion is the cheapest and fastest but won't pick you up if you stop moving a lot, like sleeping and sitting at your computer. There's also millimeter-wave 'radar' sensors, now commonly available in ready-to-go packages, and some will detect motion just from you breathing. Check reviews.

There's also bluetooth based presence, mostly useful for whether you're home or not, not which room you're in. If you wear a smartwatch then it might be a viable option but probably not for "which room am I in."

Probably best to google / youtube search "home assistant presence" and see what folks have to say.

my impression is that presence logic is best coming from more than one sensor. Ie: my phone disappeared, but no doors opened? I'm still home, I just rebooted my phone.

[sonic sapphire]

What power supply would i need to power a 5M 60pm WS2812B strip? I bought a 12V 5A power supply but the whole strip isn't lighting up, Only about the first meter lights up, Do i need higher AMPS? Unsure if it's just a faulty LED controller or if my power supply is not enough.

[patent river]

Can confirm @crude rune's story - have the PIR that turns the lights on/off in our home office set to wait 20 minutes before reporting no movement, I can easily sit still for that long if I'm working at the computer. Fine for the 99% case, but PIRs are a pretty blunt instrument.

[crude rune]

google something like "LED strip power injection" and that'll tell you what you need to know

[sonic sapphire]

Thankyou! I wondered what the two wires were on the strips but this makes sense!

[crude rune]

I am a little surprised that at 12v only the first meter is working, though. Have you tried conecting from the other end?

[sonic sapphire]

The clip is female on the other end and the controller will only take a male connector so i can't plug it in easily

[crude rune]

ahhhh, gotcha

[sonic sapphire]

It could be that i have a faulty controller, I got it from aliexpress for super cheap

[crude rune]

that's a shame as it would let you rule out a defective pixel (on some, but not all strips, if one of the pixel fails it won't pass data down the chain.) If it does turn out to be a dead pixel, you can manually bridge the data line(s) over the dead pixel.

not knowing anything about your controller or how the strip is wired, but you mentioning a separate connector on the strip itself - it does sound like that needs to be connected up for power.

[drifting grove]

Does anyone know how the illuminance refresh interval affects the battery life on tuya PIR sensors?

The default is an hour which is way too slow to use it in any automations but I'm assuming increasing it will vastly reduce battery life

[zealous dune]

More reports less battery. Which sensor allows you to change the reporting interval for illuminance,

[shadow parcel]

Where is the other half of my storage?

[sage token]

I've gone with Athom Tasmota V3 plugs. There are cheaper ones around but I don't want to have to flash devices and use different intergrations for different devices. I am likely to have other devices with Tasmota in the future. Overall there are a lot of plugs to lot to choose from. The Athom plugs are not expensive; $14.35 (€13.38) each.

Can get Meross MSS310 for €10.50 each but not Tasmota. There is a local intergration (no cloud) however for them.

[zealous dune]

Meross does Tasmota plugs under Refoss brand

[drifting grove]

Hi everyone! How is the skyconnect with zigbee2mqtt nowadays? I've read that it wasn't the best but all resources I've seen are around ~8 months old so I'd appreciate if someone could tell me if it's worth trying today. Currently I have neither zha nor z2m network and starting from scratch

[zealous dune]

Experimental still

[wicked furnace]

I'm looking to connect the output of this driveway alarm to Home Assistant but unsure of the best/right hardware to connect to it (or how). Their manual shows the output, but I don't quite understand the wiring diagram: https://knowledgebase.absoluteautomation.com/documents/usr/mier/da500-manual.pdf

Any chance someone can tell me if this could be hooked up to, say, a Shelly? and if so, how?

[zealous ermine]

hmm. do you have the wireless variety?

seeing a lot of X-10 references in there. could possibly be easier than you'd expect

[wicked furnace]

I have the Wired option. I'd rather avoid X-10 because of how antiquated it is. I assume there is some way to read the physical output from this device into something more modern (e.g. shelly), I just don't quite understand the wiring diagram for this device.

[zealous ermine]

X-10 comms over wireless and wired via powerline, from what I remember

sometimes the antiquated answer is easier to set up than the new and fancy one

but X-10 is also pretty slow

[patent river]

Potentially with one of these https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-plus-i4-dc you could use the 24VDC contact (first diagram on page 5).
Might even be able to power the Shelly from it if you're lucky; NEG -> ⏚ terminal on the Shelly, +24V -> + (powering the shelly), NO -> SW1 input

Assuming that "bell" output the signal you're looking to digitise?

[wicked furnace]

Yes!

[patent river]

That's the sort of trick I'm doing with my garage door opener. One of the pins in its terminal block goes hot when the door is moving, using that as a trigger for lighting and some other things

(not with a Shelly, but a similar +24VDC deal)

[zealous ermine]

sounds fun

[wicked furnace]

So on the wiring diagram of that device, I just need something that can handle sensing the 24v output from that driveway sensor? Or am misreading that?

[patent river]

That's my interpretation of it

[zealous ermine]

yeah, sounds about right to me too

[patent river]

The assumption is that - and I assume "Whistle Switch ON" is important here - the "NO" pin becomes +24V when it's "ringing the bell" which you can re-use as an input to the Shelly.

[zealous ermine]

hmm, I may have to get one of these myself. I have a late 70s-mid 80s era opener (complete with keyhole switch) that I'd love to repurpose

[wicked furnace]

Do I have to put the capacitor between NEG and NO as well?

[zealous ermine]

I would think the cap is just to help the bell function in that case. likely not necessary for the switch.

[wicked furnace]

https://www.shelly.com/en-us/products/shop/shelly-uni-us#node-1cn9c1i40mvf2

Should a Shelly Uni read the output of the device then?

Says it can read in 12-24V AC

[patent river]

Pretty sure it would, but it's the same price as the ones with a nice plastic case.
Also do you need the output(s)? Or just an input

[wicked furnace]

Just need an input, from there I'd do everything in Home Assistant.

Also, I just so happen to have a few Uni's in a box on my workbench.

[patent river]

Ah, well yes that's a very good reason 😄

[wicked furnace]

I'm going to give it a try tomorrow with the Uni and see how it goes then. So just to confirm, the output of the driveway sensor (according to that diagram) would be the NO terminal, not the 24V terminal?

[patent river]

In theory. I think you could use the NEG / +24V as the power supply for the Shelly, too.

Hrm. Actually looking at the wiring diagram the Uni works different to the i4

https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-uni

But it shouldn't hurt to just wire it up and try

You can always use the 3rd wiring option, where you just connect to its relay:

[crude abyss]

Hello, I think im at the right place but im building a new studio and looking at getting recessed lights it will be 12 of them, im having some trouble finding ones that is not bluetooth and in the uk just wondering has anyone seen or used anything like this and if so what is a good option to go with

Here is an example of what i was looking at https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BBB5K2QG/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=ALBAUADF16LVU&psc=1

[winged knoll]

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#e=light shows quite a few Zigbee options

The Gledopto ones should be good, their other devices are known to be good

[sage token]

Ah thats good to know, Thanks. The Refoss with Tasmota are not cheaper than the Athom however.

[crude abyss]

ahh thank you, i will look into these and see how cost effective they are

[chilly moth]

pi 5 - I was searching for a raspberry 5 image ... but was in the wrong window... 😉 Maybe I need to wait before I can use my new hardware with HA...

[crude abyss]

wot lol

[terse pebble]

Pi 6

[winged knoll]

Piπ

[crude abyss]

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/GL-D-005Z.html something like this be perfect, thanks for that 🙂 i do see there is "pro" "plus" so will have to see what that is but il have to see if i can get them in the u

[terse pebble]

The Pi 5 image is expected in January (if no delays happen)

[chilly moth]

Thanks! 🙂

[foggy wharf]

Anyone here having some experience with Sonoff NSPanel Pro, or the T6E panels? 🙂

I'm setting them up in my home and I'm looking for the best options to run them, i.e. companion app vs fully kiosk browser, etc.

(Or is there another channel that is more suited for this?)

[winged knoll]

Hit up Discord search 😉

[wicked furnace]

Didn't even know this existed, so thank you for sharing this lol

[winged knoll]

Those have been discussed on this server a fair bit

[foggy wharf]

Thanks a lot!!! I'll try the search! (New here, sorry)

[winged knoll]

No worries - most people forget it exists 😄

[foggy wharf]

And, yes, they exist. They're really cool. 🙂 Setting up a panel in my house in every room. The wife was not so happy when I started drilling holes at eye-height everywhere 😄

[wicked furnace]

I have light sockets hanging out of ceilings in a room, lights that don't work in another, a 3d printed light switch in another, and all sorts of other weird things.

Thankfully my wife is happy and supportive, and happy that I have a hobby I enjoy 😛

[foggy wharf]

That is true love, Sir!

Same here 😄 I was exaggerating a little bit :p She wasn't too happy though, when drilling the holes resulted in some unforeseen damage etc etc, but now that everything is in there and fixed properly, she actually loves it

You have to break something to create something, right? 😄

[ebon cipher]

I am running a "unsupported" supervisor hacs install under ubuntu 22.04. Most things work ok. I added two sata drives yesterday. the HA hardware report sees them. How do I make them available to HA so I can have it move the HA storage directories there?

[fickle saffron]

Hey, I am new to home assistant and home automation in general. I am experienced with programming and microcontrollers but I don't really want to make home automations into that kind of time sink.

My main question would be what brands should I generally look to buy smart switches etc from and which to avoid in terms of quality and (easy to set up) home assistant compatability?

I am sure I am not the first one asking this question so if there is a good resource to read or watch that would be super! So far from what I've read Shelly and Athom are good options.

Thank you 😄

[sudden narwhal]

Anyone got recommendations for smart thermostats for controlling a lot of baseboard heaters? I've heard Nest/ Ecobee are not recommended for that type of heating. I have about 12 in my house I am looking to start getting managed by HA before we get too deep into Canadian winter.

[long mountain]

Hey all! I recently received my SkyConnect batch 7 from AmeriDroid and it seems to be identifying itself as a generic CP2102N serial device. Flashing updated firmware and setting up Zigbee works fine, but I'm missing out on the easy integrations and HA management features of it being a SkyConnect device. Any hints on how to get the device to correctly identify itself as a SkyConnect_v1.0?

[winged knoll]

Hey, I am new to home assistant and home

[winged knoll]

#zigbee-archived can help you

[civic hornet]

hi guys i'm looking for a motion sensor with dimmer function , i would like to dim the lights more during the night or when it's dark

can someone please advice me

[outer knot]

Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:

• Which country you're in
• What your budget is
• What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
• Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)

[winged knoll]

However... why not do that logic in HA?

[civic hornet]

i'm now indeed using a logic in HA , but wondered if it could be simpeler / standable

[winged knoll]

How will the sensor/dimmer control the light?

[civic hornet]

yes you have a point, i just leave it like how it is - it works perfectly with HA

[dim arch]

Hi, I could do with an explanation on the term "All configuration of the tool is done via environment variables."

it's from the read me of this integration :

https://github.com/instipod/HHCN8I8OP-MQTT

any idea of what that's mean ?

[terse pebble]

These configuration options have to be passed to Docker with those according environment variables in the Docker CLI command.

[winged knoll]

Or in the compose file

[terse pebble]

And it is not a HA integration, but a program, which forwards information to MQTT in a HA readable autoconfig format.

[dim arch]

maybe it is a wrong end for me, I got this 8 relays board (rj45) and I would like to integrate it ( I already have mqtt broker on my HA server pi4), but not sure how to do that ?

[winged knoll]

Do you have a computer running Docker you can run this on?

[dim arch]

nope

[winged knoll]

Then you'd need somebody to build an add-on

Or to buy another computer/Pi

[cold moon]

@sudden narwhal these days you get more for your money by buying a used mini pc such as a lenovo m910q off ebay or similar. there are also brand new intel based nucs on amazon and other sites if you want to go that route. n100 based cpus are cheap and popular

[sudden narwhal]

@cold moon I'm running HA Core on Hyper-V on my gaming PC right now, been using for a few weeks as a trial run. Slowly swapping everything away from google home and so far pretty impressed. But I want to actually be able to shut my PC down lol

[cold moon]

ya funny enough i shut down my pc (well, put it to sleep) with home assistant using a button lmao

[sudden narwhal]

Whatever I get, I plan to just throw in my back room where my networking stuff is.

[dim arch]

wht about this thing https://github.com/gabrielgbs97/hhc_n8i8op_mqtt

[sudden narwhal]

if I did go mini-PC route, what would I do for Zigbee? A USB radio?

[cold moon]

a lot of us use PoE zigbee coordinators now like tube's https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p2-based-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/

@ tube here makes them and provides good support. otherwise ya nothing wrong with a usb coordinator but you have to decide which you want to buy based on which software you want to control zigbee (zha vs z2m)

[sudden narwhal]

Sounds like more planning/research required lol

Appreciate the leads

[cold moon]

this is my zigbee mesh using zigbee2mqtt

with a tube PoE coordinator

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended here's a list of recommended coordinators for z2m

if you want to go ZHA then i'd probably look into the skyconnect which is the newer efr32 chipset but you can also buy a cc2652p based coordinator (like you would use with z2m)

https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/06/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide.html @sudden narwhal you can also go this route and install proxmox bare metal to a mini pc or nuc and then virtualize haos in a VM or run home assistant docker container if you prefer that route

that's a popular option

[sudden narwhal]

I'll need to figure out zha vs z2m. I am not running anything too advanced yet. Mostly a lot of lighting, some wake on lan stuff, some plugs, security cams, down the road looking to get my garage doors added in (rip myq), door locks, thermostats

Some wall buttons to trigger specific automations/scripts

[sudden narwhal]

Yeah I want to add it into my nighttime routine which shuts everything off lol, then wake it + my work laptop when my work alarm goes off in the morning

But hard to do when it's uh ... Running everything :p

[cold moon]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266447810408 $120 for 7th gen intel mini pc

[winged knoll]

ZHA is part of HA, so one less thing to manage - but if HA is down so is your mesh

Z2M is separate, one more thing to manage - but also won't go down when HA goes down, and documents what works

[cold moon]

$100 for 6th gen intel https://www.ebay.com/itm/175909843376

$90 for 7th gen intel https://www.ebay.com/itm/285515329615 that's not bad at all

[jagged crypt]

second one doesn't include Power Supply

you need the 60watt lenovo psu, but shouldn't be a hard find, just going to be another order

[cold terrace]

@devout parrot I changed the deadband on my Pearl (3157100-E) from 1.8F to 1F and it seems like the setting might actually work, the temperatures are closer. Does yours behave the same way? The deadband setting was in menu option #9, not #19 like some forums mentioned.

before I fiddled with it the drift was 2F up and down

[devout parrot]

I haven't messed with that setting.

[upper yoke]

can i cast locally hosted mp3s from my HAS instance to a group of amazon echos? i use group casting to mini google home speakers but suffer from group dropout and spotty connections so i wanna know before i make the switch.

[sudden narwhal]

Are there any cheaper options than inovelli zigbee switches?

[sudden narwhal]

I found someone near me selling a used HP ProDesk 400 G2 for $120 CAD (88 USD), might go for it. It would be cheaper than the Green especially after currency conversion, tax, shipping etc.

[warm hinge]

hello im looking for a romba that moops and can connect to home assistant im located in new zealand

[patent river]

From what my colleague told me, only if your media is accessible by HTTPS with a trusted cert (so Let's Encrypt good, self-signed bad).
Google Home speakers will play from unencrypted HTTP (and so will Sonos, for what that's worth), but Alexa won't

(this was from our respective experiments in using such devices as our doorbell chime)

[bitter zenith]

I am almost certain our users have said that our MSR-1 mmWave CO2 Multisensor is the "least fiddly" out of all the ones they have tried. Let us know what you think! https://github.com/ApolloAutomation/MSR-1

[bitter zenith]

You might be interested in how we designed our MSR-1 mmWave CO2 Multisensor! Let us know what you think! https://github.com/ApolloAutomation/MSR-1

[jagged crypt]

I was debating 1 to test, or just going for the 6-pack 🙂

[bitter zenith]

6-packs have more fun!

[jagged crypt]

~5m range?

on the ld2410b?

[bitter zenith]

Yes, 5m and yes, the LD2410b. Our users have loved getting rid of false triggers from other mmWave's by using the Radar Engineering Mode on our MSR-1.

[fallow cape]

@bitter zenith do you have a public page out yet on the PA-1? My guess would be that it is for determining if a vehicle in a home garage is within the correct spot

[bitter zenith]

Yes, and you are exactly right. https://shop.apolloautomation.cloud/products/pa-1-garage-parking-assistant

[fallow cape]

Interesting!

my gut says that an MSR-1 + ac adapter + mount is a lot of money but when I look at how much I've spent on this project using pis at this point for something that I am still going to need to design and print an enclosure for

plus more sensors on your board than a pi zero w lol

[bitter zenith]

It is something we have wanted but could not find. We are very excited for it!

[bitter zenith]

MSR-1 w/mount/plug and w/out CO2 is $54.98 and w/CO2 is $69.98. Free shipping on US orders over $100 and free international over $150. Also, Buy5Get1Free sensors right now! https://shop.apolloautomation.cloud/products/multisensor-mk1?variant=45784978981171

[jagged crypt]

Does the MSR1 power up successfully from a PD usbc adapter? I've had some other gear not like the PD output

[bitter zenith]

Yes, here are the two chargers we have used to verify.

https://www.amazon.com/Compact-Adapter-Certified-Foldable-Charger/dp/B0B7MSF969/ref=sr_1_9?crid=VC3KFTVMI10H&keywords=slim+usb+c+wall+charger&qid=1699257140&sprefix=slim+usbc%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PP8HYR9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[bitter zenith]

https://tenor.com/view/do-it-get-to-work-gif-21630516

[limber pawn]

hey, how are your charging intervals with tablets with fully kiosk running on it with just a screensaver and remote admin? Mine chews through from 80% to 20% in just 6h

[glacial oracle]

most common would be to have it plugged in at all times i suppose

[limber pawn]

doesnt that hurt the battery. I have it on a smart plug charging up 80% if it drops under 20%

[mortal robin]

Hi guys!

Can anyone reccomend me a network solution which is well integrated?
Well, what i am after is actually just device tracker and a toggle switch for guest network.

I have Asus today and these functions work great, but i would like to change it out to something like Unifi or Omada to be able to run PoE access points. I have tried looking through the available integrations, but i have not managed to find out if you could toggle a guest VLAN from HA.

Anyone have some tips for me here?

[glacial oracle]

likely, which is why you would disable/unplug it or use a display tab which usually come without battery for this purpose

alternatively you could probably use a smart plug and an automation through ha to turn the charger on and off based on charge levels 😉

[cold moon]

Imo it’s not that big of a deal if you’re killing a battery’s life that you never plan to use

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wallpanel-battery-management/256317 @limber pawn this is something I found a couple years ago but never setup

[limber pawn]

Oh, thank you. I've got an automation running already, just wondered if there's an better way. A display isnt that cheap in a comparable quality

[cold moon]

There are mods to remove the battery completely if it concerns you. Either people freak out about the battery or completely ignore it as an issue usually

[limber pawn]

yeah, not really that good at soldering, but maybe someday

[full rampart]

I vaguely remember there being an esphome channel somewhere in this server. Do I recall wrong?

Or did I just get things mixed up with #diy-archived ?

[winged knoll]

You did, but there's a whole Discord for ESPHome

[outer knot]

@full rampart ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.

You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.

[full rampart]

Ah, thanks.

[karmic cargo]

I paid $44, for one (don't recall brand ATM) about a year ago, then got an inovelli a few weeks ago for $50, so yes, there are some cheaper...
That one from a year ago has on/off/dim. The Inovelli has up to 5 taps on each of the paddles, plus can direct connect to a smart bulb even if your HA is down.
No, I don't work for them but I've discovered that I've become a pretty big fan after installing 2.

[sudden narwhal]

Where did you get one for $50? The cheapest I can see is $70 USD, which converted to CAD and shipping is a lot for a light switch that I am planning to get 5+ of right away.

[karmic cargo]

https://inovelli.com/products/zigbee-matter-blue-series-smart-2-1-on-off-dimmer-switch

They do, of course, have more expensive options. Like the ones with the mmWave presence detection, but I don't think those have been released yet.

[drifting grove]

I have a spare Alexa laying around and I was wondering, is it possible to connect it to HA and use locally as a speaker? I don't want to connect it to the internet for obvious reasons

[idle shoal]

They aren't the smallest but DWZWAVE2.5-ECO works well and has very good signal strength. It has strong magnet that works over a long distance.. I used one wired to an external switch (via the internal connections provided for that purpose) as an Alexa "You've got Mail" mail box sensor over 75 feet from my hub. I put the device in a water proof box with a couple desiccants to prevent corrosion from condensation. After 3 years it looked like new when I removed it after the USPS moved me to a community mail box kiosk [Grrrr, now they put my mail in the wrong box with regularity and complaints fall on deaf ears. The USPS motto is apparently: "We don't care, and we don't have too". When you order on-line you often get choice of carriers. I wish there was choice to NOT use USPS. In the last 6 months I've had packages put in someone else box. At least I have honest neighbors.]

[jagged crypt]

nope

[drifting grove]

Big sad

[jagged crypt]

there appear to be projects to gut google-home devices, but i haven't seen anything for amazon echo devices, and at a certain point the cost probably isn't worth it

"home" voice boxes with real mic/speaker (echo dot) probably be in the $100 USD napkin math right now.

the s3-box-3 thing is ~$50, can't remember if it has hardware wake-word

https://www.espressif.com/en/news/ESP32-S3-BOX-3

that's the second gen of that unit

[fluid zinc]

Does anyone here have experience with using Somfy in some way? I have 2 somfy covers, and will get 2 more, and I want to see what the best hub/device is to enable good HA integration

[drifting grove]

Very interesting. I'll have a look, thanks!

[gentle fossil]

Lcd screen? Nice!
My esp32 with oled screens tend to burn in very fast

[jagged crypt]

fyi, I have no personal experience with that esp32box thingy, just passing on info

[oblique wagon]

How long does OTA takes for ikea shortcut button?

[terse pebble]

#zigbee-archived might be able to tell

[jagged crypt]

on zha, i remember updating some ikea remotes and it took 10's of minutes

i ended up just leaving them overnight and it worked

[oblique wagon]

That's the plan.

[jagged crypt]

did you setup the auto update dirs (and/or config)

[oblique wagon]

Nope. That's the only never used button.

And if I will not get working HA during "a week" I will go back to Trådfri hub.

So far my record is 14 presses of button before action happened. Starting to wonder do sonoff dongle-e and usb aurosuspend are to blame or other shit.

[jagged crypt]

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#ota-firmware-updates

sonnoff dongle-e, on a usb extension cable away from the SFF box works fine with ikea remotes (and sonoff remotes) for me. tradfri and strybar

[oblique wagon]

Anyway, back to TV series.

[jagged crypt]

14 presses sounds like you are experiencing a different issue btw

[bitter zenith]

co2

[spring cloak]

Super newbie migrating planning to migrate over from Smartthings, tuya, and Alexa routines, was wondering what I should be looking for in intel NUCs? Also are there recommended zigbee and z wave dongles? I’m in the US not necessarily tied to NUC but smaller form factor is preferred.

[winged knoll]

Super newbie migrating planning to

[dense sparrow]

HA keeps crashing

[unborn moon]

I was wondering if someone could recommend me places to buy smart plugs with power measuring with a regular update interval preferably not higher then 15seconds
budget: below 20 if possible
location: NL/EU
connection: wifi, but others are also fine but if zwave/zigbee which dongle/hub do you recommend
i prefer open source firmwares

sorry for the maybe bad question but there is so much marketing that i cant read really through it anymore

[zealous dune]

are you looking for a plug recommendation or a store to sell you any plug?

[unborn moon]

both

[zealous dune]

i'd recommend one of the Tasmota preflashed plugs

[unborn moon]

any recommended brands/stores? (this message can be sent twice sorry in that case, my phone is slow)

[zealous dune]

https://templates.blakadder.com/preflashed

[warm birch]

I just did the Mi BLE Temperature sensor OTA flash to Zigbee and it was incredible easy and smooth. What a fantastic idea

thanks for the advice, can only recommend: https://smarthomescene.com/guides/convert-xiaomi-lywsd03mmc-from-bluetooth-to-zigbee/

Now if only I can find a TRV that is reliable and works... Aqara T1 has not impressed me at all so far

[winged knoll]

I've got the E1 to test out, hopefully I'll get it installed in the next week or so

[burnt ether]

Hey all,

I've got a Tado wall thermostat in my living room.

I don't want to spend the €60-85 on a single Tado radiatorvalve in every room.

Are there any good ones you can recommend?

[cold moon]

i've considered this. any upsides in your opinion?

[warm birch]

Update interval increased and you don’t need Bluetooth in your home setup

Other than that, mostly “because you can” 😂

[warm edge]

I'm not familiar with this device. I would imagine it's similar in concept to the EP1?

[cold moon]

do you mean decreased?

[sudden narwhal]

Any opinions on the specs for this guy for running HA? I can get one for $80 CAD locally with an SSD.

https://www.zotac.com/us/product/mini_pcs/ma320#spec

[cold moon]

Depends on end goal and performance needed. Old intels are nice cuz of the onboard igpu

[sudden narwhal]

I don't imagine I will be doing too much intensive stuff, I think a lot of it will just be lighting and security controls/automations.

I guess maybe a better question .. are those specs stronger than an HA Green? I'm not super familiar with the hardware for Pis and pi-like stuff and how to compare it to traditional PCs

Plus I guess I could always upgrade down the road if needed, and re-purpose the Zotac into something else

[warm birch]

Hmm, that’s an interesting linguistic problem. It reports twice as often now frequency increased from every tenth minute to every fifth 🙂 so yeah, predator the right way to say it is interval length decreased , but interval count increased or something

[cold moon]

like bi-weekly 😛

[warm birch]

Oh don’t get me started on that one ❤️

[gentle saddle]

Looking for suggestions for LED light strips: Cool to warm white only, not colour. Need to be able to adjust the colour temp. Any suggestions welcome.

[bitter zenith]

Yes, it is similar in concept to the EPL but the MSR-1 is much smaller and actually has more sensing capabilities. Dr. Zzs did a YouTube stream on both https://youtu.be/YGNCw1nFwjg?t=1192. Small note, he accidentally glued the sensor stand to the front of the device, but it just slides onto the back.

[bitter zenith]

#hardware-archived message

[spice hull]

@burnt ether
Hey spartatom, I don't know if it's the best you can buy but I'm pretty happy so far with this thermostat:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGl1o23

I just bought 3 and I run better thermostat on HA it works all fine for me

[smoky scaffold]

Hey there, I hope you don't mind newbie questions?

[spice hull]

I have a question as well, is there someone who can help me with my vacuum robot roidmi eve plus to integrate in HA. I have it already in HA but it's not possible for me right now to just clean rooms. I can clean the whole apartment and I see the map but I can't clean just separate rooms. Would be great to get some help✌️

[smoky scaffold]

(UK) I'm looking for advice on a smart switch for my hot water heater. I currently have a manual clicker 7 day timer that turns my hot water heater on for about 2 hours a day. Does anyone have any recommendations for a smart device I can use to turn my hot water heater on? Currently, I have this: https://www.greenbrook.co.uk/t100a-c

[cold moon]

Innr UK zigbee plugs are highly recommended here

I don’t remember if they do power monitoring but i think no

[winged knoll]

They don't

The Salus SP600 do

[smoky scaffold]

I can't see the specific product you're refering to. I've checked their site and can only see regular wall plugs

[winged knoll]

Pretty sure the massive Hue plugs do too

[cold moon]

Isn’t that what you’re using?

[cold moon]

Hue us plugs do not do energy I have one but maybe uk do

[winged knoll]

Ah, Hive, not Hue

[cold moon]

Oh

[smoky scaffold]

No, it's a specific wall socketed unit. Like a thermostat

[winged knoll]

There's Zigbee options for those, for the UK even

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#s=thermostat includes options by Hive and others

[smoky scaffold]

It's just dawned on me.... I can use any smart thermostat I suppose since all i'm doing is sending current down a line when a trigger is hit...

[rotund burrow]

anyone using any wall mount control panels with HA ?

[smoky scaffold]

I assume I could use something like a Tado Extension Kit and only hook up the hot water portion of it, then use Home Assistant to control the on/off function

[winged knoll]

Should work fine as long as the Extension kit talks Zigbee

https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#v=Hive suggests that's not the case

[smoky scaffold]

Just having a look at this, as the Tado system does have a hub available: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tado/

[supple nymph]

Hello i have a question im looking to retro fit a motor to my blinds to automate them into HASS. However i have the aquara smart rolling blinds but the motors in it are far to weak to pull the the coord. Does anyone have any suggestion :3 ?

[unborn moon]

how about a gear reduction for increased torque but lower speed you also need more rotations..

and is it too weak or isnt it gripping it efficiently and have you the cord overtightened so that there is more pressure on the motor? like is it friction or more like a gear grabbing the cord

3d print gears or maybe grab some lego gears and a hot knife or a different source for gears if you decide to go the geared route

[supple nymph]

it is gripping fine it just hear the engine start squeeking until it stops

yeah i thought about gearing it, but im not sure if my elegoo mars is able to bring large enough gear boxes

[unborn moon]

a gear box doesnt need to be big, the gears need to be strong enough to transfer the force so if you design it yourself make sure to look at good gear designs which keep full contact all the time so the load is spread over the contact surface instead of just the tips like basic triangles is bad
so make sure it is cured well before you use and make look at the types of resins you have, i have built small gearboxes before and a small pressure pump (2.6 bar with resin which were never bigger then 5x3x3cm

[unborn moon]

how is the battery drainage if you dont mind me asking

[warm birch]

Still not sure. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back in a week or so

[gentle saddle]

Hi There, does anyone know if you could use a differnt controller for some nanoleaf lightstrip - like a EPS32 or something?

[devout parrot]

Probably.

[devout parrot]

So you probably want a normally open solenoid valve, those seem to be mostly 12v, so maybe an esp32 with a 12v relay? I don't know what relay boards are good but that's a starting point.

There are also boards like this one
https://devices.esphome.io/devices/AC-DC-ESP32-Relay-x4 that have multiple relays plus the esp all on one board.

[rare tulip]

Hello. I just installed 8x bht-002 zigbee thermostats. They control floor heating of air-water heat pump. Does this log look normal heating to you (for me it looks like uppon started heating thermostat heats itself from being ON)?
Ping @silk prawn @hushed path @frigid socket I see you posted about having bht-002 previously. Are you having such issues?

[unborn moon]

• Where do you guys buy your hardware like smart plugs, sensors, presence detectors, controllers(like remotes) in the EU/NL zigbee/wifi
• Does anyone know a small single button zigbee keyfob/keychain like a
• And i heard that not all zigbee devices communicate with the same hub because of manufactures locking their devices to their own hub
  and which hub would you recommend?

[hasty heath]

Hi, I want to add a sensor (Wifi / ble / Zwave) for monitoring the temperature in my freezer, have you any good reference for this? Something wireless or I must go on with something with a cable ?

[unborn moon]

depends on your requirements, do you never want to replace a battery go wired, zwave/zigbee are more power efficient, BLE less and wifi is the worst of them all if i am correct

maybe you are interested into this part of the chat, a ble thermometer can be converted to zigbee depending on how you want to use it with a guide and multiple models in the guide, battery operated
#hardware-archived message

[crystal bear]

Is it safe to use tuya smart switch for monitoring mini split aircon? I don't plan to use the switch part, only monitor.

[winged knoll]

What's the power draw of the AC?

[crystal bear]

780 watt max, according to the data sheet

the outdoor unit states 3.65 Ampere for cooling and 4.55 Ampere max

[glacial oracle]

Seems alright

[gentle fossil]

There are motors in these things, right? Sounds like you might have some inrush current which can potentially exceed that 780watt. Not sure

[hexed siren]

I just bought 4 Aqara Smart Radiator Thermostat E1 and 3 of them seems to be working fine, however the the last one is way of when using it's built-in temperature sensor. As in it's 3 degrees off. Is this a common thing with thermostats? Should I just claim it as faulty and get a new one?

[keen fractal]

Hi everyone, I have an idea but i don’t

[crystal bear]

Yes, there's motors in there, both indoor and outdoor unit.

[unborn moon]

if your breaker/fuse is 10A and it never got blown then your 16A smart switch will work fine most likely there are always edge cases

[crystal bear]

Ok, thank you...

[hollow merlin]

hey folks

Does anyone have any recommendations (or anti-recommendations!) for smart thermostat controllers for electric heated flooring with a solid HA integration?

I'm looking to replace two dumb timer 'stats with something I can control from HA. They're not relays, they just directly switch a 16A leg (to my mild surprise.)

(I could totally homebrew this with a Shelly Plus 1PM and completely control it through HA, but there are some additional safety features built into the thermostat, like overheat protection. So maybe I want those. I'd also like to be able to read the temperature sensor buried inside the flooring, although I can do that with a Shelly Plus Add-On, I think.)

Another option is multiple models on AliExpress that can be flashed to Tuya. I do worry a little about a no-name device having to handle 240V / 16A put through it for long periods of time, though. That's enough amps to... cause trouble... if the electrical safety aspect was sub-par.

[zealous dune]

you should worry

[hollow merlin]

that was my assumption, indeed

(also hi Blakadder! I was just using your excellent site for something the other day, although I cannot just now recall what)

[nimble grotto]

Hey guys, I'm still in the market for a new zigbee antenna, on my raspberry pi 5 order I have added the Skyconnect because I assume since it's designed by Nabu Casa it should have the no headache warranty. Are there any other alternatives I should consider which are a bit futureproof with Matter/Thread support?

[burnt ether]

Got all my zigbee devices from IKEA.

They've got single button ones too. However, lately ive been thinking of buying some NFC tags to place at certain spots near doors etc to control some stuff.

If you have a zigbee stick (like ConBee2) you dont need a hub, only something to put Home Assistant on like a PI, NUC or bigger if you want.
I've got HA on virtual machine on a HP Prodesk small PC. I had it on a PI4 first but it was to weak to run Plex Media Server on.

[burnt ether]

Ive haven't been using HA for that long and not been on this discord either but there is 1 thing that multiple people mentioned to me: stay away from tuya devices.
A better alternative, which also isnt expensive, is using Aqara devices.
Hope this helpes.

[shrewd nacelle]

I am about to receive some more LocalBytes WiFi plugs. I am already using three of them right now, two with Tasmota and one with ESPHome firmware. So far, I haven't seen any large difference between the two. Is the choice which of the two to use basically down to personal preference / willingness to spend the extra time to go from tasmota to ESPHome, or is there a strong reason for using ESPHome over tasmota? (Hope this is the right channel for this kind of question)

[winged knoll]

Tasmota has a built in rules engine so can do stuff without HA, and two Tasmota devices can "talk" to each other

ESPHome doesn't need MQTT

(more really for #diy-archived probably, but ... eh)

[shrewd nacelle]

Great, thanks for the input. I'll probably end up going with ESPHome, since I don't plan to use the rules, and since the ESPHome version also allows me to calibrate the power measurements. But it's good to know that I'm not overlooking anything significant here.

[winged knoll]

Purists on either side will probably have a long list of why X is better, but for most people most of the time ... doesn't matter at all

[cold moon]

i'm not sure if tasmota has an equivalent container, but the esphome addon or docker container gives a really nice way to manage / update / etc devices from within home assistant. esphome was also acquired by nabu casa parent company of home assistant a while back but i'm not sure if there's really any tighter integration compared to tasmota as far as like.. "device can do X on tasmota but not esphome" or vice versa

[shrewd nacelle]

Yep, the central management of updates is one of the main reasons for me to go the ESPHome route.

[cold moon]

protip: if you update all your esphome devices there will be a new esphome update that soon follows so you have to do it again

it's a vicious cycle

[winged knoll]

Bit like HA then 😛

[cold moon]

nah i mean like the one day you decide you want to update each esphome device it just so happens that esphome is about to release an update and you wish you would've waited

https://tenor.com/bVXiI.gif

[winged knoll]

https://tenor.com/view/roz-monsters-inc-gif-21427129

[wind vale]

Anyone have recommendations for a shelly like device, that doesn't spontaniously combust? I have zigbee, wifi and ethernet as options to get the little thingie into home assistant.

Wanting to switch some led lights, and be able to monitor if they are on, or not. Sub 120W loads.

Many thanks!

[hollow merlin]

I've never asked the LocalBytes guy but -- I'm not sure if they come already calibrated with the Tasmota build? And hence I may have lost that calibration when I flashed a few of mine to ESPHome. (This occurred to me too late.)

After a couple of power outages in my kitchen, I once had one of the Tasmota ones forget all its config. I had to dig its IP address out of my router, log back in, and feed the MQTT details back into it. That was annoying and shouldn't happen with ESPHome, I imagine. Quite a niche case though.

[vernal bay]

Looking for suggestions for an IR blaster I can integrate into HA. Any suggestions?

[glacial oracle]

why just shelly like?

without power monitoring, ive seen the hue branded ones go for pretty cheap in packs of three

[winged knoll]

#automations-archived can help you with the automation side of that

Usually you don't turn the lights off unless there's been no motion for X seconds/minutes

Well, you've not shared your automation, or details of the traces, so it's hard to help 😉

[wind vale]

Something that can be hidden in a junction box. Not a socket based thing, like the trådfri or the hue, ideally! But thank you

[glacial oracle]

ah i see! so din rail / behind socket stuff

could something like the sonoff zigbee mini work? its kinda for lightning but without a switch attached it should work quite alright

they arent that much cheaper than the shelly plus tho

[karmic cargo]

Reports of the Shellys spontaneously combusting? Got some links, I'm curious...

[patent river]

There are also 2 wire valves that open with +12V and close with -12V

Just in case you didn't feel you had enough options

[wind vale]

I think that is a solid option, thank you very much!!

[wind vale]

It was mostly sarcastic, there are some images and reddit posts about it. I have seen slightly more reports of shellys burning/ melting than others, but could be that more people have those.

The "happy customers won't leave reviews" syndrome

[karmic cargo]

huh... interesting. thanks

[gloomy spoke]

if/when I build another house, I will definitely specify larger boxes

but yeah, you could rent out some of that space

[zealous dune]

you putting a minipc in each one? 😄

[gloomy spoke]

that's an apartment

I think someone here said that they routinely cut out and replace the existing boxes with bigger ones, just cutting through the nails with a sawzall

I can see that

that's more surgery than I'm willing to do

[zealous dune]

it potentially will

and the fan

it can be triggered by rain and flowing water in pipes

[gloomy spoke]

that's pretty unobtrusive. Looks like a residential sprinkler system

they let you remodel your prison cell?

[hollow merlin]

London estate agents eyeing this up as a sublet opportunity

[quasi spindle]

Anyone have any standout recommendations for a hardware solution for home security, not looking for motion sensors but sort of security hub

[tawny viper]

Simplisafe works pretty well, but the question is do you want live monitoring? Do you want their devices or your own

[wild atlas]

My home security system was installed and is monitored by a local company

There was another company nearby with a fancy offering with cloud connections and all that jam and that was a big no from us

[hazy wedge]

What’s a recommended smart plug for use with home assistant?

Currently using Amazon ones but they’re a pain to connect to home assistant so I want to swap them out

[cold moon]

Gross

Sonoff s31 Wi-Fi flashed to esphome assuming you’re in the us

[hazy wedge]

Sadly I am not, UK

I need to be able to control them from Alexa as well

[cold moon]

That is sad

Well anything can be added to Alexa via home assistant so that’s irrelevant but also sad

[hazy wedge]

I was thinking maybe the tapo ones?

[zealous dune]

think again

[cold moon]

Id suggest a zigbee mesh

[zealous dune]

https://www.mylocalbytes.com/en-eu

[cold moon]

Innr uk plugs are apparently good too

[winged knoll]

And also their non UK plugs

[cold moon]

They’re weirdly shaped, less amps, more expensive, and don’t include energy monitoring compared to like third reality us plugs so I’m not a big fan of innr us plugs

[hazy wedge]

Ooo they look good. Might be a bit too pricey though

[zealous dune]

you should earn more then 😄

[glacial oracle]

All just a question of the pricings

[zealous dune]

want cheap: buy a 5GBP tuya plug and cross your fingers

[cold moon]

And cross your legs

[glacial oracle]

never use your shower again

[karmic cargo]

Has anyone had any issues with Shelly 1s becoming unreachable? I turned off power to a circuit, when I turned power back on, HA could no longer access one Shelly 1 (installed within the last ~month), even though my network management sees it and reports its IP address. I can't reach it via web to access its built-in web page, either. I thought that it might just magically "come back", but it's been 2 days.
Right about the same time, another Shelly 1 became inaccessible to HA as well. This one is on a different circuit that did not lose power. It's been installed ~2 years and has been working without issue. (One of the very few items that my wife hasn't had some sort of complain about!)
Any troubleshooting tips?

[glacial oracle]

if you cant reach the web page of it, its not an issue with ha
id try checking wifi availability at their location (maybe the signal is too weak / more noise than before) and then maybe a reset

[hazy wedge]

god it would cost £75 to replace these. Not too bad but I need to see if I can make that up selling the Amazon ones off

[karmic cargo]

I'll give that a shot. thanks.

[cold moon]

that's on you for buying cloud connected shit phoning home to a giant evil corp

[hazy wedge]

They came free most times. If there was a local replacement for Alexa I would be on it immediately

But there isn’t one that can beat it or even match it yet

[wild atlas]

Shellys can be flashed with esphome and tasmota pretty easily, they kinda pride themselves in not locking you in

So you always have the option to reflash to another firmware, though if it's in a wall, that's kinda a pain

[cold moon]

there is... https://www.esp-voice.com/

[hazy wedge]

That does not beat or even match my Alexa’s

[cold moon]

maybe not now

but a lot of us go out of our way NOT to send our data to companies like google and amazon

[hazy wedge]

I’d rather not have to deal with teaching my parents how to use a worse system

Maybe when it’s on par I’ll swap to it

[cold moon]

well it's a local replacement for alexa which is what you initially said you'd switch over to if it existed

[hazy wedge]

No. I said I would switch over if there was a system on par with how well Alexa works

[cold moon]

They came free most times. If there was a local replacement for Alexa I would be on it immediately that's not what you said

anyways whatever enjoy your cloud

[hazy wedge]

But there isn’t one that can beat it or even match it yet

[modern laurel]

Any chance you found anything? I have two baseboards with no thermostat, just an unlabelled knob, and I would love to have them controlled. Research has been... inconclusive.

[sudden narwhal]

Not yet, it has been a lower priority than some other projects atm

[karmic cargo]

Don't forget to include Apple in that "do not send" list!

[cold moon]

You’ve gotta pick your poison and they’re the least evil in terms of what they do with the data

Objectively

Not arguing against their anti consumer and other bs of course

[jagged crypt]

objectively they are the best at marketing their privacy, objectively you may want to dig in what they are collecting 🙂

[cold moon]

what they're "collecting" and "selling to anyone with a pulse" are vastly different things when you look at apple compared to google and amazon

is apple using data gained to try to take more money from their customers? yes, same as every other company, and it sucks. are they literally an ad company like google or whatever the fuck you call amazon now?

no.. they are not

[tame magnet]

Apple’s core business is selling their hardware rather than selling your eyeballs, so the incentives are aligned a lot better than with google/amazon/etc

(though this also explains why they aren’t so great at right-to-repair stuff, etc)

[cold moon]

yes i am obviously not okay with their anti consumer right to repair etc

[pine ice]

Hellow everyboady!! I am a total Noob with HA, i just finished my raspberry pi4 intallation yesterday and I was wondering if anybody has brand recommendations for easy integrations for light switches, cameras and doorbells?

Any help is welcomed 🙂

[karmic cargo]

OK, that's a little big... I went with 4" boxes and 1- or 2-gang mud rings for everything. If I was planning on a Shelly install, I went with a 4-11/16" box. What's that a 6"? 👀

[karmic cargo]

Interestingly, while attempting to reset it (which hasn't worked yet, maybe because I need to actually flip the breaker first), I noticed that HA recognizes that the light is on. It just doesn't let me control it.
Everything is controlled by the Shelly for this light - the switch it's connected to controls 2 receptacles into which are plugged lights. If I manually flip the switch on the wall, the Device Info page lights up the icon, realizing that it's been turned on.

If I hit the button on this page to turn it off, I get a message:
Failed to call service light/turn_off. Setting state for entity Master Bath Vanity Free failed, state: {'turn': 'off'}, error: DeviceConnectionError() which is really bizarre because I don't have anything (anymore) called Master Bath Vanity Free. I've searched through all my devices - nothing at all with Vanity in it.

Can't blame ya', though. Nice and easy working in a box that big!

[karmic cargo]

Ha! I love their "retail prices" 🤣

hehe... Just showed my wife. She said, "You could put an RPi in there!" She's not even a computer person! 😄

[atomic seal]

Anyone have time to help me with skyconnect ?

[devout parrot]

Just ask your actual question or describe the issue you're having over in #zigbee-archived and if/when someone has time they'll help you.

[green summit]

I am running a home assitant os vm on ubuntu linux and was wondering of a good bluetooth adaptor confirmed to work with linux. I initially tried the XDO BT802 (RTL8761BU) only to find out that it only works with windows.

[cold moon]

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/bluetooth/#known-working-high-performance-adapters

or just ignore bluetooth dongle's existence and do this

https://esphome.io/projects/?type=bluetooth

[fervent knoll]

are there any thermostats that offer local control with HASS?

[fringe crater]

there's a few zigbee/zwave options.

also I think Ecobee techically is local if you use a homekit workaround

[fervent knoll]

ah, ok, good call

in theory nest is too, via matter, but I haven't seen anyone successfully use that yet

[fallow cape]

feeling less certain about my presence tracking solution now that all the pieces are here

[cold moon]

Why not an esp32

[fallow cape]

I tentatively plan on printing enclosures for the pis but to assemble nine more of these and shove them in each room

and the why being 'I think room assistant looks neat'

[cold moon]

zero W 2 right?

[fallow cape]

ye

price was the same vs the zero W which was already overkill

and they let me order ten, so

[cold moon]

nice

microcenter aint playing with the pi5

[jagged crypt]

I was looking for a couple, where did you find them? (I haven't looked that hard)

[fallow cape]

digikey

huh I guess I must have lucked out on there being stock, they're currently showing an ETA of February

but anyways https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/raspberry-pi/SC0510/15298147

[jagged crypt]

and 4625 pi zero w's - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/raspberry-pi/SC0020/18150025

[fallow cape]

mouser has similar for both versions

hopefully this weekend I can get my 3d printer back up and running and I can print out a bunch of enclosures for these, then get started on christmas printing

[cold moon]

well

you obviously dont have enough printers

i have one down.. but 4 that arent

[devout parrot]

Anything Zigbee or zwave is going to be totally local.

[cold moon]

I don’t need one but I’ll take it for the cost of shipping

[sinful mirage]

hi, i bought these CCT 12v LED strips. they don't have RGB just warm and cold LEDs. anyone have a recommendation for a controller?

[cold moon]

Kind of depends on more information

[sinful mirage]

what information?

[cold moon]

How many strips? The length

Where are you located (USA etc)

What protocols are you ok with using (Wi-Fi, zigbee, zwave)

[sinful mirage]

canada but im looking for something off aliexpress. wi-fi, 10-7 meters

they aren't addressable. just analog

[cold moon]

As in ten seven meter strips?

[sinful mirage]

7 to 10 meters

[cold moon]

You’ll have to do some math to figure out voltage drop and see how many power injections you’ll need if you plan to have it in one continuous strip

[sinful mirage]

its 12v

[cold moon]

You can prob just buy some athom esp based Wi-Fi controllers from alie

[cold moon]

Yes and the amps taken by each led causes lots of voltage drop but it’s worse on 5v

Plus tiny bit of copper in strips doesn’t help

https://quinled.info/2020/03/12/digital-led-power-usage/

[sinful mirage]

im not worried

[cold moon]

https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-rgbcct-analog-and-digital-light-strip-controller they sell these direct from their site or alie

[sinful mirage]

thanks

too bad they don't seem to have just a CCT one

[cold moon]

shows you how to wire cct tho

and can be reused later for addressable or w/e

[sudden narwhal]

Any strong opinions on Zwave dongles?

There are quite a few on the HA list

[cold moon]

old bad list

usa?

[sudden narwhal]

us/can

[cold moon]

zooz 700 series is what i highly suggest

800 series if you are okay with living on the edge

800 series is fine to buy devices for, just not the controller in my opinion at this time

https://github.com/zwave-js/node-zwave-js/issues/5257

[sudden narwhal]

So the 700 is more stable but with less range and security options?

[cold moon]

no and no

700 is fully supported with no known firmware issues (stable)