#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 36 of 1
then again, this is also the state which only started allowing citizens to pump their own gasoline last month
In Texas our low voltage owns their own guns
but yes @vague salmon there is a code book for low-voltage wiring and if you're seriously interested in looking at it I can find it for you
and trust me it does not take two thousand hours to learn
what
inorite? New Jersey still doesn't let their citizens pump their own gas as far as I know
A fellow texan too?
hahah yeah I forgot about that
(although honestly I am quite happy not having to handle the gas pump)
ah but then you've never wondered what exactly that is on your hand
haha I drove taxi in Boise for three years, I am quite familiar with that feel
lol fun
This seems like it? https://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/AboutTheCodes/70/NEC_Style_Manual_2020.pdf
it was a good gig except for all the drunkards puking in my office
hey you have found the documentation for how to create documentation
oh lol
bleh can't just download a pdf of the damn thing but you can make a login and read it for free on their site
https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=70
90.2(C) Installations Covered.This Code covers the installation and removal of electrical conductors, equipment, and raceways; signaling and communications conductors, equipment, and raceways; and optical fiber cables for the following: (1) Public and private premises, including buildings, structures, mobile homes, recreational vehicles, and ...
there's a whole chunk of it that deals with low-voltage specific stuff
how tight you can make conduit corners, how many corners are allowable on a conduit run, what type of cable to use in which spaces, how frequently the cable needs to be supported, etc etc etc
interesting note I learned from my last job, a conduit that goes outdoors between buildings is considered an outdoor space
so you need to use direct-bury rated cable in it
which makes sense I guess because water incursion in an underground outdoor conduit is not uncommon
Hide it in the walls and act dumb isn’t an option?
oh nice, thank you. definitely will be nice to have, been wanting to learn more so I don't kill myself doing stuff
as long as you obey the 11th Commandment
Thou shalt not post pics online?
yeah there's important things in there about how far to keep it from mains lines, how to safely cross over mains lines, how to safely run parallel to mains lines
Thou Shalt Not Get Caught
Hey all, trying to get a aht20 to work on a nodemcu v2, I have home assistant os installed on Unraid, It seems this is a ic2 sensor, but when I try to run the ic2 configurator addon it says my cpu is not compatible, am I out of luck?
HAOS is setup on an unraid VM
If not the appropriate channel I apologize, if someone can point me to the right place
Yes you're out of luck
damn, so I have to find non ic2 devices? or switch to a pi?
sorry i2c, I keep calling it ic2
Tell me, how does your unRAID CPU relate to the NodeMCU and AHT20
Maybe this is more a question for the esp discord, I may be a little lost, so I have esphome flashed on the nodemcu with the aht20 sensor, when I check the logs in esphome, its giving me an i2c error, so ive been trying to research why that may be, I installed i2c configurator, but its telling me my cpu is not compatible, so I am curious if I cant run any i2c sensors with my current setup
If the error is from ESPHome then that Discord would be the place to ask
If not, then this is the wrong channel anyway, either #diy-archived or #add-ons-archived
Understood, I thought it may be a compatibiliy issues, I wasnt sure if i2c was exclusive to RPi hardware
The i2c addon has nothing to do with it, your error is in the esphome config
Hi,
I'm looking for a temperature sensor I can place on my balcony.
At first, I was thinking about ESP+DHT22 as I have some spares in my drawers but I don't know how to power it (-20/+45 range) without being out of range for batteries or if there is a risk with open air components.
So, if you have any advice/recommendations, I'll be happy to get them. For new stuff, I just have few requirements: internet access or power socket are not available for it.
so you're saying my certifications in cabling would mean nothing ?
here you get certified and you register with the regulations entity and you get a installers license
and you use appropriate rated cable 😉
nope it would mean absolutley nothing, you'd still be required to get the Oregon low voltage subset electrician's license. 2650 hours.
yeah F that
yep
it's how the electrician's union in this state keeps the money flowing within the electrician's union
unnecessary red tape and bureaucracy
barriers to entry
Come to Australia. You need a structured cabling licence to install network cabling.
In your own house.
well like I said about here, you do the certification courses, you get a installers license when you register
so I can't believe my normally backwards country, is making sense with something
at least in Oregon if you actually own the property, you can do the cabling yourself (but literally the property owner must be doing the work) as long as it gets a building permit and passes the inspection
when I was in college, I hung out with the IT team, there were 3 guys
and one of the guys was so incompetent that the other two pretty much followed him around all day fixing everything he touched
but he had the electrician's license so he could pull new cables on campus as needed
and he was worth keeping around and following around to fix his screwups for that reason alone
anyone have recommendations for a smart switch that can handle the inrush current from a bathroom ventilation fan?
am thinking it'd be real nice to have the fan kick on at high humidity and shut off again at lower humidity
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
USA, probably zigbee, I don't even have a conception of where budget starts on these things
hey that bundles the sensor into it, I wouldn't have to do a separate sensor
and I don't have to have the zigbee coordinator yet
I'm ordering one
Little bit of a learning curve if you've never used Tasmota before, but they include info on configuring it
and then there's info here for adding Tasmota things to HA: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tasmota/
wow it should be here tomorrow
Oh make sure you select Tasmota and not Smart Life
sweet thanks, that helps cos another thing I happen to have on the shelf is a few sonoff 2x and sonoff 4x that I understand should be flashed to tasmota
not sure why it has that dropdown when it's a page specifically for the tasmota version...
once I figure out voice control I want to use one of the 4x ones in the living room to control the living room and dining room lights and ceiling fans
tasmota is great
(and also put a light fixture with fan in the dining room)
looks like tuya but flashed to tasmota
if this switch works in the main bathroom I'll order another one for the master bathroom
I had to put tuya in my system, we've got a bunch of Feit bulbs
after some convincing, the OEM actually now has native Tasmota versions of many of their products
on the bright side, playing with the controls on the web UI is a lot smoother and faster repsonse than telling Alexa to do stuff with the bulbs
Tediore I blame you for my love of Tasmota
glad to be of service
will be glad for the day I can fire Alexa
this this will run tasmota https://www.amazon.com/DEWENWILS-Outdoor-Wireless-Controller-Compatible/dp/B07PP2KNNH
lol
im strangely confident this one will however https://www.amazon.com/Migro-Outdoor-Resistive-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B082L6HHK6
great now I'm really gonna be broke
Sadly, MJ appears to use Amazon for order fulfillment even when ordered on their website 😦
At least in the US. Not sure about elsewhere
it's not perfect for me
because fuck amazon
but Martin Jerry is the GOAT for offering pre-flashed Tasmota devices
now all I need to figure out before I can start rolling this out to more of the house, is voice satellites with wake word behavior
they've done more than right by me
including double ship and single charge me for items then refund the payment
infact I've ordered from amazon, gotten an email saying my order was cancelled and still got the stuff
I don't like the way they treat their employees or their sellers
but I do like click-click-get-stuff
and yeah occasional free stuff, I ordered some stuff and it hadn't even been shipped by the expected delivery date so I canceled it and ordered from someone else and got that order
and then I got the first order, after the refund had already processed
yup, happened to me as well
although another time they blocked a $7500 order for fraud suspicion
and we called them and convinced them it was legit and they released the order
and somehow duplicated it
so we were shipped and billed for two identical $7500 orders
damn thankfully we had enough liquidity to carry that extra $7500 till we got stuff shipped back and a refund processed
that could have gone very wrong
it's more about the poor treatment of employees for me
Oh, I haven't heard much about that
Warehouse and a lot of their tech staff aren't necessarily valued...
its been all over the news
well not our news unfortunately but I'm reading now
The Bahamas
well this is true but I mainly read BBC and CNN
nah, i get all my news from twitter
Amazon is a terrible company in literally all respects
sorry.. X
any suggestions for air purifiers that work with home assistant? be it through an outlet switch or zigbee?
Someone having the same issue with this aqara humidity/temp sensor? I never see any logs of it
that weather sensor is a button as far as HA is concerned
what's its model and manufacturer in the device card?
zhaquirks.xiaomi.aqara.weather.Weather2
one of the days someone will actually read the model and manufacturer of the device in ZHA
today is not that day
One of these days people will read the channel topic and know they should have been asking in another channel 😛
i thought it was from aqara so was looking for that name , i see this :
lumi.weather
by LUMI
Device Type: EndDevice
LQI: 105
RSSI: Unknown
Last Seen: 2023-08-24T11:17:19
Power Source: Battery or Unknown
Quirk: zhaquirks.xiaomi.aqara.weather.Weather2
#zigbee-archived is the channel you wanted
11:17 was the time i repaired it
sorry was away
I could use one of those 110 outlet switches (zigbee) -or- an actual zigbee compatible air purifier
I know the last purifier I had would reset if power cut to it, so something like that wouldn't do.
only zigbee air purifiers are from IKEA
ooo, okay, I'll take a look at that.
there are many wifi ones
desk for gnomes
weird lol
the wifi ones work with home assistant tho?
i hate wifi devices generally.
Definitely strange. Hopefully it's quiet
Seem to have struck out on Reddit so I’m asking here. Anyone know and brand that makes TRIAC candelabra bulbs??
I'm trying to avoid wifi as well. Not sure if Zwave or Zigbee is the way to go, both seem pretty open
But if Zigbee is cheaper itll probably win
I going to ikea next week .maybe I get it
I’ve only been to ikea once and I’ll never go back
It’s like if the state fair of Texas and cardboard had a baby
I went to buy a lack table to make a lack rack, picked up the sample and realized it was complete junk and had to use my elbows to get out
Fair ,and takes forever to put together
Hue. Buy hue
That’s not hue that’s Philips
I said closest
Nobody makes an a15 zigbee. But I don't quite need a15.
Anyway. It's wiz wifi or ikea zigbee
I honestly only have hue bulbs. So, will do
Just need a few for our bathroom fixtures.
It was that or this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-40-Watt-Equivalent-A15-Smart-Wi-Fi-LED-Tuneable-White-Light-Bulb-Powered-by-WiZ-with-Bluetooth-1-Pack-567222/316146275
No wiz
Hence, ikea 🙂 we came to same conclusion lol
Technically the ikea isn't an a15, but size wise it works for my purpose.
Anyone experienced issues with Fibaro smoke alarms triggering false short smoke warning?
Not experienced with that one, but my smoke detectors give short warnings, when the battery is low
They also always start making those noises at 3am
Never start the warning beep during waking hours
But of course
Yeah, what is it with smoke detectors and other beeping things? They always start in the middle of the night
they know
Moved
#energy-archived can probably better help you
Okay thank you, I'll move my post
Yall think 87€ is fair for the Rpi4 - 8GB? How much did it even cost before their shortage
70-80 ish
So its still a bit overpriced but already way better than usual
Im going to wait a bit longer, prices seem to finally calm back down
Don't forget prices may well have risen due to the chip shortage and cost of energy going up.
hey guys can someone help me choose a vacuum robot?
I am searching for something that is compatible with home assistant, that has a “map/mapping” of your house and that it can go on carpet/moquette
if possible with a bit of trash storage
My Synology NAS updated today... and now I can no longer launch home assistant. I'm using a SkyConnect... and "Docker" was replaced with "Container Manager".
Its basically the same
Getting the error "no such file or directory" on ttyUSB0
It always worked previously, not anymore.
That's your mount gone wrong
Check if the device is still recognized and present there
It's not listed in ls /dev/tty*
and I dont know how to fix it.
running /usr/local/etc/rc.d/usb-serial-drivers.sh start doesn't seem to fix it.
@patent sparrow I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
I figured it out. Synology update deleted the .ko files from /lib/modules.
Buy a mini pc instead dude
True, better performance for a cheaper price
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385670237223 link i've shared previously for an $80 mini pc "m910q" there are many variants on ebay for reasonable prices with 8gb ram or higher and 128gb ssd/nvme or bigger - this is a great option if you need cheap hardware
I have a Konnected 6 Zone panel that I recently moved from SmartThings to HA. Also laid down ESPHome to manage the device. However I have not been able to set a zone state to inverse. In the Konnected phone app that was easy. In the Konnected/ESPHome documentation it shows an example of coding for inverse. Being fairly new to HA where is this code located to modify. Thanks, John
If anyone needs a GPS tracking device for tracking a car, a kid who you don't want to buy a phone yet, any other asset etc, these things are on sale for super cheap and the traccar integration works great.
https://a.co/d/68fxmtI
The GL300 Real-Time GPS Tracker monitors location with pinpoint accuracy while giving you real-time updates. Whether you're guarding expensive equipment or items against theft or monitoring your delivery drivers' routes, the GL300 gives you the reliable, real-time tracking performance you need. M...
Now what these actually are are rebranded Queclink GL320M which retail for around $100 unlocked, so with the correct data cable and the password that you can dig up on the traccar forums, every time these resellers change the password they use someone cracks it, you can wipe the device and set it to use your traccar server and the wireless carrier of your choice.
Subscription required?
"subscription required" is like "requires Aqara hub" if you're smart
I’m not
fortunately there are tons of people out there on the Internet who are smarter than either of us figuring out all the hard stuff.
I’m not familiar with gps
So gps and glonass, of which allegedly the GL320M devices use both, just use satellite signals. Any device with the right receiver can use those signals to determine its location, no subscription required for that bit. Subscriptions come in when you want a device to be able to send that data back to a server somewhere.
Companies like Spytec buy and rebrand GPS devices and subsidize the price by making you pay an inflated price to use them via locking them to report to their servers and use their mvno data plans.
If you buy a tracking device unlocked or you're able to unlock one of those subsidized devices, you can reconfigure it to report to your server, traccar is a free and open source solution for that that also has a solid HA integration, and set it up to use whatever SIM card and data plan to connect to your server and report back.
hey there. i'm using a guide to make my rpi4 USB bootable. its saying i need to have A) up to date firmware, and also to use B) Raspbian on a separate SD card to enable what I need
is all that true? does HAOS provide firmware updates itself? or is there a better guide?
or can i sudo ssh into it and just run what i need to
it's built into the raspi-imager tool now
it's a eeprom or bootloader update that the pi needs - if it's a newer pi then it probably already supports usb boot
that's an old guide that isnt really relevant, but his hardware suggestions and list of supported adapters is still good
Can someone explain to me how this smart switch works? I think my brain has shut down for today.
https://sonoff.tech/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/说明书-ZBMINIL2-V1.0.pdf
is there a way to tell if i have it enabled?
or the latest?
plugin a monitor it will tell you what its doing
Specifically this wiring diagram. Does the switch always have power? If so, how can it have power without the light being on?
you can read some docs from raspi and figure out what version of eeprom is needed. you can either install the eeprom updater via raspi-imager or ssh in to like a normal raspberry pi OS install and do it manually
sorry it's beena while you should just find a guide online
ok. here's a recent one
looks way easier nowadays
cool
seems as simple as backup on old, then restore on new
Short answer is: sometimes they can't. Was easy with incandescent bulbs, even at 110V the smart switch itself might only draw 10-20mA, which is in no way enough for the bulb to light up (I mean maybe if you pointed a thermal camera at it, but nothing a human could see). With LEDs and some smart switches you do get into situations where the lights won't turn all the way off. A lot of brands sell a "dummy load" device (usually referred to as a "bypass") that you install in parallel with the light to resolve that. Here's an example:
https://aeotec.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/6000168292-how-to-wire-a-bypass-to-your-nano-dimmer-load-
the switch connections are a low voltage connection that just detects whether you threw the switch. Throw the switch (whether it's to the on or off position doesn't matter), the relay that controls power to the light toggles.
@devout parrot I think they're referring specifically to the no-neutral-wire install where the smart switch draws its power through the bulb.
That's the explanation I was looking for. Thanks! I plan on connecting it to an old fluorescent light, so it should probably be fine then
The smart switch doesn't draw power through the bulb, iirc there's some kind of circuit wizardry inside the device that "fakes" a neutral wire to complete a circuit for the device to power itself.
Old fluorescent lights are inductive loads you shouldn't use that switch with them.
I'm picking from the manual - despite that Sonoff refer to the entire device as a "relay" - it's not actually switching using a relay at all?
If it was, attaching fluoros with modern electronic ballasts (perhaps not an old-timey wire-wound one) wouldn't be an issue.
The spec sheet though says 6A of resistive (incandescent), but only 1.25A of LEDs, so it must be a triac/mosfet switch.
Yay for mis-using terminology.
I will also say, I replaced the lights in my garage (and installed new ones under my house) with these cheap waterproof Philips fluoro-shaped LEDs:
https://www.lighting.philips.com/prof/indoor-luminaires/waterproof-and-cleanroom/waterproof-battens/essential-smartbright-waterproof/911401820780_EU/product
Very happy with the result
Welcome to Chinese designed and manufactured equipment a la sonoff
Wait, so it completes a circuit with only one wire?
Neat thx
It switches the "hot" wire like your physical switch already does. The neutral wire is up there in your lamp socket.
I see. I'm pretty sure there is an electronic ballast.
I found some fluoro-shaped LED:s as well, but in that case I might be better off swapping the entire fixture
You can also convert old fluorescents to led strips
Yeah, that could work
While looking around for demonstrations of other people's 2-wire switch installs, I also found this amazing picture: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/shelly-1l-no-neutral/291763
The easy 10mm of exposed 110V wire outside of the screw terminals is a particular highlight, although I'm sure electricians would have some words about putting the switch (5VDC contact, on those Shelly relays) in the same box
Hi All, I was hoping you could give me a second set of eyes. I’m having issues setting up Shelly 1L with no neutral. Please see below photo, US wiring. I get no light when the switch is in either position. Wiring the live/load together yields a light. Does this just mean I need the BYPASS? Will the lights not turn on if there is not 20W? ...
That said, the poster is still active on the forum, so apparently hasn't burned their house down
exposed terminals isnt the problem there the huge amount of exposed bare copper is
plenty of people who are retarded havent died yet re:house burning down tho
he's also using a neutral as "live" which is also fun
Oh, wow. Hopefully that was only temporary at least
It’s best just to tell most people to hire a sparky and run the other way
I was one of them a few years back
A noob not a sparky
Yes no maybe
it says that they work with smart life
wdym?? 😰
🤔
true
You probably bought some analog led strip with some shitty Chinese cloud based tuya Wi-Fi controller
its says powered by tuya
Probably not worth trying to integrate the controller and best case you cut the controller off and solder on your own
You’re not buying lots of returned bullshit right?

i am at like this game things
and with tickets i can get stuff
To be honest I’d suggest not buying any low end Chinese bullshit dude
i saw those three things but i was not sure i can put them on home assistant
so none of those three? 😥
Just buy some candy or cocaine instead
You could probably use it with LocalTuya or tuyalocal, and you could replace the controller and power supply with one that sucks less, but at that point you might as well have bought something decent in the first place.
mh fine
ok ill take it as a no
lol
Dual color planter is coming out nice
Looks like a festive grenade
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4862961 here's the STL i give them away free to people
With or without explosives? 🤔
depends on what zip code orders it
so validating my understanding(mistake?) here. Picked one of these up to experiment - https://www.gledopto.com/h-nd-144.html - House wiring is Black+White+Copper in switch box. Those are hooked up to a dimmer switch (white house->black on dimmer switch, black house->red dimmer switch, copper->green). USA wiring. Dimmer switch has additional red wire just pigtailed by itself which i assume is 2-pole operation (switch is single). I don't have a neutral on this do i, since I just have two wires in the switch area, and the ground?
Gledopto ZigBee 3.0 Smart Home Products
One of those house wires is neutral. Probably the white. Usually it's black: hot, white: neutral, bare: ground.
that was my understanding, black hot, white-neutral, this is a led dimmer switch (and swapping in a dimmer zigbee module, and ignoring for now that the unit wanta momentary switch vs on/off)
Black will be both line (hot) and load (going to light bulb etc)
I guess my question is I only have three wires (b/w/g) in the junction box, not sure how to wire into power and into light switch.
as i look at the wiring diagram on the above URL
my understanding previously was the switch was inline on the black/white, and just regulated 120v that "flowed" through it to dim. Meaning the return on the lights, aren't in the junction box. This may be incorrect assumption on my part.
went from renting to owning a house in the past week, and went from having hue bulbs everywhere to led recessed cans everywhere with two-wire plugs. So I need to either invest in "a lot" of recessed hue lights, or other 6" zigbee lights, or see if I can put a handful of zigbee switches into the junction boxes.
(or at least that's my thinking, the ultimate outcome is back to what i had, which was motion sensors working with most of the house, and i left all the wall switches alone)
How old is the house?
built in 1980, "renovated" two years ago by flippers who gutted it (put obvious caveats on flippers)
Smart life is tuya based, if it works with smart life, it will work with tuya
Hi i need help to get a snapshot from my Netatmo Outdoo Camera. I have allready installed the integration, i have a stream coming in. But the sensor doesnt work, the detect a human. And when human detected i would like to send a snapshot to my TelegramBot. Any ideas about the snapshot.
What sensor? Not that it matters, that's a question for #cameras-archived
im sorry, ill ask it there
Do read channel topics 😉
i was looking in the support section lol
Hi guys! I had my HA running on a raspberry pi 4 with 4gb of RAM and yes... my sdcard failed me 😦 I know, I know... I'm "another pi victim".
With that out of the way, I'm trying to understand what would be the best option to replace the PI.
I was using the PI only to run HA but now I want to have something more advanced that allows me to use it as HA, Plex Server, ownCloud, maybe as a ISP router alternative. In one way or another, I want something more versatile.
There are some conditions nevertheless:
- I need something with a power consumption not to high;
- I don't want a rack size hardware;
Any suggestions on what should I get? It can be a "new" product or something "second-hand"
Thanks in advance!
at least a couple of us are running i5-6500t small form factor boxes with proxmox
Almost any small form factor PC from the last decade
The channel history has lots of advice
plex server doesn't use any CPU if you aren't doing transcoding, make the client do the decoding 🙂
under $200 for a i5-6500, 16gigs of ram, and 1tb nvram SSD with ease
@jagged crypt I think it was you that gave me that advice some weeks ago 🙂
probably, just moved in the past week, so going through rebuild of things here
I didn't had the time to investigate more but I'm commited to change now
where are you located? (country)
Portugal
it was not you that gave me that link before 😄
there are new items that would be <$50 usd/eur more
anyway, another user suggest the "lenovo thinkcentre m910q", for example
yea, the "tiny" is the series, so you should be able to get hits
requirements on these things, MUST INCLUDE power supply
what about the specs? should I point to what?
as mentioned above, horsepower is not going to be your problem
depends how many other things you are running
these units seem to max at 16gigs
or at least "cheaply"
if you are just running HA, then 16gigs is way overkill
for sure: HA, Plex server or similar, my own cloud in some way, maybe hosting some local websites
I run proxmox as a hypervisor, and run HA with 4gigs of ram, and another linux box (running dns/dhcp) with another 4 gigs of ram. And have 16 in the system.
here in Portugal we have a site that is very popular to buy/sell used products. I made a search by "thinkcentre tiny" - https://www.olx.pt/ads/q-thinkcentre-tiny/
and get 16gb of ram on that is not expensive I assume so... not an issue
all these things are 25-40 eur, but it adds up. At the same time, spending 25 EUR now, to save hours later and just not worry about memory stuff is well worth it to me, your need to evaluate your time/cost ratio
the 360EUR option is probably super overkill, but will happily transcode for you
maybe something like this would do the trick?
Lenovo Thinkcentre M73 tiny version:
- i5 4570T
- 16g ddr3
- SSD 240gb
(it's one of the items on that site)
the 190EU - m920q, i5-9600t, 16gig ram, 256 ssd is probably good
i went with i5-6500 series because it allows remote console
pro-vt or something, mentioned in the servethehome link above. the i5-4000 series are a couple years even older, and will happily run HA without much issue, but would step up to something like the i5-9600t item i posted
lisbon area though
yes, it's right at the corner where I am 🙂
205 usd. it seems a bit expensive, or am I wrong?
35W TDP... it's a lot more than my pi
you are paying for the newer CPU, both will consume about the same power, the newer cpu will be about 2x the speed
i have a 6500t system, here's the power consumption
it idles at 15 watts
also a 35watt tdp unit
130EU vs 205EU is a big jump, but i'm not sure i would go with the older cpu because i wanted the remote console (HA is closet, my desktop is not)
the only i5-6500t unit is 190eur (m710q), which i would jump to the 205eu one instead
ok the idle at 15 watts is more pleasant. I't not that much money in a year but I'm just trying to get everything in my head
yeah, no issues, if you aren't doing transcoding, then plex is just a file server effectively, so no extra power
i push out to clients with hardware decoding (roku) so no need to transcode anything
anyways, there are HP and Dell versions of those servers you can look at also
but that's the ballpark range
so, if I get it correctly, there are many options, of course, but we are talking about two examples on that site:
1 - i5 4570T, 16gb ddr3, SSD 240gb - 130€
2 - i5 9500T, 16gb ddr4, SSD 256gb - 190€
the second one has a 35W TDP so let's assume it will idle at 15W like the one you have.
I would get more performance, the remote console and I can have HAOS I assume right?
both are 35watt TDP cpu's
ok so that is the same, one less thing to worry
older and slower doesn't mean less power (wattage)
you can run HAOS natively, or in a hypervisor (I use proxmox, free)
the other user suggested proxmox so that is what I was thinking
If encoding should be something needed, those N(100) based systems will do very well
@tacit burrow probably, who did this conversion awhile back also 🙂
btw @jagged crypt one is 130€, the other is 190€. 205 was 190€ in usd
so like 35% more for the newer processor
I mean it's a decade old hardware
Realistically you could get that from your local recycling facility
you're right. I work on a big telecomunications company... maybe I will ask there
maybe there are some in some bins
worth an ask
Yea before you go any spend money on old stuff
the thing is: I was on a raspberry pi... so, this will allow me to do more
Kinda any core2duo will allow you do do more :)
the only thing I want to guarantee (I forgot to say) is that I need to use my SONOFF-ZB Dongle USB and I also want to buy a Google Coral. I'm assuming I will not have any issues, or should I worry?
there are new systems in the ~250eur price probably, so the comparision is money, actual perf difference, and build quailty (these business sff's are built well)
I got a sonoff e dongle running through proxmox into has
No issues with it so far
I run a sonoff-e zigbee stick in my system (on extension cord), and map the USB directly to the VM
ok great
You may want to check usb speeds as proxmox likes to not guess that right
But really it ain't going to do any traffic
coral USB should be the same thing
I was also looking at a synology nas but it's not so flexible right?
Yea but that may need a dedicated port instead of a hub
As it draws some more power I heard
Well if you like not to worry, syno nas systems are great
Just not inexpensive
And not that great performers
synology is more plug-n-play, so depends on how much time you want to spend also
It isn't that great to integrate around or into it from my experience
It does provide a very convenient storage and backup method
i have little to no experience with them, so default to Horstexplorer
(I run multiple linux servers with samba, plex, etc, as I've been doing that for years. IE, I self host a lot of this stuff, and don't need the plug-n-play option)
I kinda just bought it to not have to worry about me configuring raids properly
Throq ssds in there with 10gig networking, go broke, cry
But it works
ok, is not worth thinking about in a "new" hardware similar to the one's we're talking right? The second-hand solution would do the job, any new product would be more expensive right?
I swapped from linux raid over to ZFS about 18 months ago
Biggest issue is that the bays you buy is kinda all you ever will have. Expansion units cost like the same as a new nas
I already forgot the NAS, it's really more expensive and I think it's less flexible
Yea it will have issues to work around if you want to make it work in your way
this is my current project (new house) - https://owncloud.dhp.com/index.php/s/qobC4y5L2hsYy4S
yup, I need to look at swapping out owncloud
From what I've tried it works so much better at doing it's job without thousands of timeouts
it's been on my list of things to figure out, just need to find the dedicated time to try it out. more pressure with the owncloud php issues
anyways, gotta bail, back later
unless someone can reference anything with the power questions from above - #hardware-archived message
thanks guys for your help and suggestions. I will ask tomorrow if there are some of these in my company that will go to the bin. If not, maybe I will go to the 190€ one in that site, as suggested
Yup I have lots of success with 6500t and 7500t
does anybody know how I change aqara's vibration's sensitivity? using zigbee2mqtt
does the Lenovo Thinkcentre m920q Tiny have bluetooth?
Hey i am building my Home automation basicly on ESPhome. House wich i bought has already some low Voltage infrastructure. All rooms have cables instaled for CCTV system witch was never used. Unfortunetly its not ethernet cables its just a simple 6 unpaired (untwisted) rails. But since i want to use ESP i can make all Logic via WiFi and Bluetooth. And i just want to use those CCTV cables to send power to every device From one central PSU. Since some of the cables could be quite long and some of them will be short i will always need to use some Voltage regulator on the device site (at least that is my asumption) so to make things more efecient i am thinking to put a higher DC Voltage and use step down dc-dc converter on decice site. Now What do you think. What Voltage to use on that DC rail. Higher Voltage is always less power loss. I checked the specifications of those cables and they are rated to max 48V. But in other means if i put higher Voltage than 25V than this instalation is No longer considered as a low Voltage. Witch creates a lot of problems with and extra work with documentation safety regulations and so… i can go for 24V witch will be fine. Always easy to handle backup power supply by a pair of standard batteries. But i want to know What do you think about it. What Voltage would you prefer in that situation to be cost Effective and usefull…. I am wondering What is Your thoughts…
Has anyone figured how how to "hook up" to a ceiling fan/light that uses one of the remotes? https://fccid.io/Y7ZDL4114T/User-Manual/User-manual-2905446
what frequency does it use?
If it has WiFi, it has Bluetooth also.
WiFi was optional, but there are also 5 different WiFi adapter options listed in the spec sheet; Realtek RTL8821CE or RTL8822BE, or Intel 3165, 8265 or 9560.
(https://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkCentre/ThinkCentre_M920_Tiny/ThinkCentre_M920_Tiny_Spec.PDF)
Try and avoid the Realtek ones if you can, they're a massive pain to get working in Linux. The Intel cards should work fine.
how do I know which is?
That said, it is possible that the Realtek Bluetooth would work fine even if the WiFi doesn't. At least for the Intel cards, weirdly the WiFI adapter is PCIe but the Bluetooth is USB (go figure how they came up with that idea), so either one can operate without the other (indeed, you can do VM passthrough independently for the two)
I don't know about Lenovo, but for the Dell stuff that I am most familiar with you can put the serial number into the support website and it'll give you the specs of the system as it shipped from the factory
Perhaps they have something similar
ok. I will ask the person selling the unit to confirm
If only there was a sheet, with all the specifications of the models written down.... Say, maybe, from the manufacturer?
FWIW my 910q has 1-2? m.2 slots, so you can add an extra 2.5gbe if required.
either way it's more performant to use esp32 bluetooth proxies instead of bt on your hass device
They 100% do. How about you google that? 🙂
Literally type your serial number into the support search page. eg https://pcsupport.lenovo.com/au/en for AU
is that one for me?
honestly i'd suggest posting in the esphome discord server - much more eyes dedicated to that
Thank U. That is a Good advice.
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
link at the bottom^
sorry that was for qupada42:
As I said, "perhaps they have something similar"; I don't own anything made by Lenovo so going to their support site isn't going to help me find out one way or another 🙃
Doing some research into whole home energy monitoring, specifically using CT clamps. So far, it seems like the Shelly EM or Shelly 3EM are solid options. I prefer zigbee, but at least Shelly can be set up as local-only.
Does anyone have suggestions on other products I should look into? I'm in the US, have a solar system too.
Fair enough - I got you and the OP cross-wired.
No harm, no foul 🙂
Be aware that you need to manually calculate the grid return for the em3
Is that because it doesn't measure the voltage?
It does measure the voltage
But no it is because ha does not know about phases but sees them as individual sources which it effectively isnt
Ohh I see what you mean. Solar generated - grid used = return?
Yes that would be a possibility
In the end your meter will bill you for the sum of all phases at any moment which is kinda a big difference
I'm not sure I want to set it up (at least at first) to price track or anything, so I could probably do without. Energy company gives almost nothing for return anyways
Well yes but the numbers don't match then
True. Do you recommend a different system you like better than Shelly?
I haven't tried others but besides this kinda easy to resolve issue it works pretty well
Could it be solved by buying an additional Shelly EM to directly measure return as well? Sorry if that's a dumb question, I haven't actually purchased the house yet and haven't been able to get eyes on the system, very new to me
No it does that just fine, you just need to calculate an effective sum of it for home assistant to show the correct number
I see. It'll probably be a lot more clear to me once I've seen how the system works and have some devices to play around with.
Thanks for the insight!
Sure thing
I have used their reTerminal . I followed these guidelines to integrate Frigate. https://wiki.seeedstudio.com/reterminal_frigate/. Worked☺️
Oh god
these instructions have you installing supervised home assistant (not suggested) on top of raspberry pi OS (not supported).. not good
yes, I have installed it. No issues were found for me. The frigate also runs smoothly.
Choosing to use an unsupported installation method is fine, although ignorant, but it’s not okay to suggest it to others
https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/linux#install-home-assistant-supervised ```
This way of running Home Assistant will require the most of you. It also has strict requirements you need to follow.
Unless you really need this installation type, you should install Home Assistant OS (this can also be a virtual machine), or Home Assistant Container.
First make sure you understand the requirements.
This installation method has very strict requirements, for example, it only supports Debian (and Ubuntu, Armbian, Raspberry Pi OS are not supported). So, make sure you understand the requirements from step 1 above.```
If I install HAOS I cannot view the Home Assistant Dashboard UI on reTerminal LCD. If we install Home Assistant Container on reTerminal, we will be missing out on several Home Assistant features.If we install Home Assistant Supervised on reTerminal, we will be able to use all the features of Home Assistant and be able to view the dashboard UI on reTerminal LCD as well. Thats why choose this method.
Does anyone know of any Zigbee remotes with > 4 buttons? Want to code up my own remote using a combination of IR blaster and API calls to other services.
Plenty with 4 buttons, but I was hoping for 8 or so (or a 5-way rocker and a few more).
A guy on Reddit reused an old tv remote and ir to just make a shitload of automations with
Unfortunately the IR blaster isn't in view - and I don't know of any (or a HA function) to sit them in listen mode continuously.
You can buy a bridge like bond or broadlink or build a cheap one with an esp32
I have Broadlinks, but I don't know how you'd get HA to sit in listen mode permanently (and then respond to incoming signals).
For zigbee just use one of these along with this blueprint or automate yourself https://epmatt.github.io/awesome-ha-blueprints/docs/blueprints/controllers
Integrate a wide set of controllers in Home Assistant and provide an easy to use interface to run custom actions on a controller event.
Yeah, none of them have enough buttons unfortunately. Will see what I can find on AliExpress.
Hmm, I have an old ShieldTV remote that might work. Would just need to BT pair it to something then forward those commands on...
Neat
This looks promising! https://github.com/fsievers22/esphome-ble-remote Pretty recent activity too.
Ya that is neat
Integrate your MiBoxer FUT089Z via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Another use for BLE proxies
I love that remote, but it is REALLY WEIRD
and you should be using z2m to with it. a million times easier to assign a specific zigbee group id
button 1 = zigbee channel 101, button 2, zigbee channel 102
but would need only zigbee devices
I guess short term I do have a spare 5 button Tradfri that I could start setting things up in 🙂
This one looks good too. Should really have looked at the z2m registry 😛 https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/33952.html
Integrate your AwoX 33952 via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Ya I actively look for things that fuck up my zigbee mesh
LOL, well I mean it looked good from the image... not so much from the description!
Hi I’m a new to discord with HA , trying to get data from usb485 device that uses modbus data from a solar inverter. Seemingly the device is discovered and it’s tx lights indicate activity but no data received , any wizards ? I believe there’s a growing community of HA users wanting data from solar
Jeez 💀
Time to migrate lmao
Yeesh, and I thought shipping to here in New Zealand was bad
Try this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/386025948237
There are plenty of these thin clients out there going for under $50. That's one of the comparatively higher-end ones, with a 64GB M.2 SSD instead of the standard 16 or 32GB eMMC (and 8GB of RAM instead of 4GB, but you can upgrade them to 16GB).
Plenty of processing power, and as a bonus people say they measure only around 3.5W at the wall at idle (compares pretty well to a Pi 4B @ ~2.8W)
or get a modern N100 based minipc
Has an E-key M.2 slot you could put a Coral in too, if that's your jam
So err, I'm newish to homeassistant
Bought a usb nRF52840 device. Is it as simple as flashing a firmware file to get it working automatically with home assistant?
The zigbee setup seemed too complicated for me so I'm just going for thread
(feel free to @ me to get me to respond, I have bad attention span)
right, so if you want specific help with #thread-archived. go to the channel, but i believe it only the sky connect auto-flashes, you will need to download the firmware to the USB itself
I mean I'd take anything as long as its easy enough with the device
I heard that zigbee requires editing configs so that's what kinda scared me off
Altho ive ordered skyconnect aswell now, which probably renders the nRF52840 pointless
yeah it will
Crud
well, what do you plan on doing with the skyconnect?
Making a zigbee and open-thread border router with the pi using HASS OS
i wouldnt reccomned using the multi protocol add-on, just isnt reccomended for the best experience
i would just run either thread, or zigbee on the sky connect
I ended up with a Skyconnect having bought a conbee and a RF52840, the Skyconnect works well for Zigbee, not experimented with Thread yet.
Thread is even better
Zigbee it is then, thread is on my nest hub and tizen tv. Which unfortunately show up as separate networks
it will
see the post made in #thread-archived and read the article, you will understand why
people just dont like sharing credentals
Yeah I couldn't get it to work with thread provisioning app because of passwords but I'm assuming skyconnect will work with it?
Have people been able to flash custom firmware and use it in places other than home assistant ?
well, no. you will need a network key, and it wont be easy to get without a device in the network which exposes they key
also, its pointless having a thread network with no end/client devices
I'm sorta getting the system ready first and planning ahead with the end-client devices in the future
sure
And partly did all this on impulse, it's easier to set up HASS on a pi than I thought. Altho the app side of things was less easy
I suppose I'll find a list of firmware now, any pointers on where to look for HASS-friendly nRF52840 firmware?
Got the nrf connect app, hopefully I just plug it into my phone and flash it just like that
Forgive me if this is wordy to the extent of spam but is it wishful thinking to think that the smartthings dongle could be used in these places or is it locked to samsung tvs instead?
Does anyone know of a device controlling the power to one or more USB ports, preferrably 433 Mhz, but just not Wifi ?
That sounds a lot like a weird solution for a random issue
Surely you could rig something together with a relay in-between the power line of such USB port or in software for the controller
But that seems like a weird solution
Hi. Everyone knows that HA don't like CTT modes of WLED, So I played around recently with RGBWW strips with WLED. After that I connected WS2812 to the same Wemos D1 Mini, changing WLED settings respectively. But HA still refuses WLED integration even it got WS2812 with right settings. What could be the reason of this? Maybe WLED stores some metadata that not changed or maybe it's wifi router's fail?
You do not need to rollback to b5, just remove the CCT bus. CCT was not even supported in b5.
Edit: Also make sure White Balance correction is disabled if you get the error even though you don't have CCT busses!```
It does work with cct with a workaround
Otherwise double check wled settings set to rgb or whatever for ws2812b
Yes! This is it. WB correction was on. Thank you, all works now.
What are your favorite hardware manufs?
Hey 🙂
I need a Wifi/LAN Zigbee Gateway. Does anyone have expierience with one model that works well with homeassistent?
Does anyone know if there's a way to interface with hardwired door / motion sensors? Moved into a house with an obsolete automation system and security system. Not sure which these sensors are connected to, but figured I'd ask as far as possible options with using them.
Yeah you can do it. Helps to have a basic multimeter and a bit of electrical understanding.
I've got a multimeter, but not sure about the extent of my electrical understanding 🙂
I have an ESP that monitors the voltage on some of mine, and the line from the contact sensors feeds into one of the ADCs.
connected inside your security panel/box.
oh interesting
needed a small voltage divider to bring it to the correct voltage range for the ESP
it would help to start by checking the terminals and see what the voltage is when the sensor is open, and what it is when it is closed.
you can also buy something like a Konnected panel, which is a more costly but probably less hackish solution. I think that has to strictly replace your current system though
not sure if it can run in parallel
using the ESP on the side doesn't interfere with the existing system, it's strictly monitoring only.
I've never activated / set up the security system at this point, so as of now I have nothing anyway
Interesting, so I could achieve the same with the types of things karwosts was talking about
Prob. would want to go that route if I wanted to integrate with the keypad though I guess, otherwise would be fine with DIY stuff?
anyone had any luck with one of these integrating to HA? https://www.amazon.com/Cielo-Breez-Conditioner-Controller-Temperature/dp/B07MPG1Y23
if so, are you happy with it?
Why luck? It ain't roulette...
I rate the tubez ones. I have an ethernet coordinator.
I’d actually suggest the cc2652p one with z2m not that one
ah yeah wrong link. I have the cc one, I just googled
Mine might not be on the site, sec
Yeah, they must have changed the packaging since I bought it. Mine is round.
@marsh lichen are these cc2652p ones coming back in stock soon?
mine is tubezb-cc2652p2-ethusb-2022
How’s that hand 🤚
Ah not PoE
@unkempt fox 👆 da man
Just eth
Nah, mine probably predates poe. And I didn't have any poe supply until I switch to new switches/ap recently anyway
@marsh lichen can the non PoE ones be converted with an olimex PoE kit?
Mine is connected to an old iphone usb supply. with an annoyingly short (like 15cm) cable :/
Rip
No point in buying a new one just to switch from usb-power to poe, especially given I'd have to re-pair everything, which is a big headache
I would like to move the coordinator, current location is not good for wife-acceptance-factor.
Ya $10 PoE splitter then
haha plus $50 shipping 🙂
They split poe into ethernet plus usbc? (hmm, I don't remember)
PoE splitter takes PoE in and gives you ethernet + power like usb out
so PoE from switch gives you power and eth to your device
they're a cheap way to get low voltage dc power to devices far away
i use one for my wall tablet
Nice. I need to figure out where I've got POE then. At the moment I'm only using it for my APs, and one of my security cams.
Assuming from your username that you are actually in New Zealand, here's a locally-stocked one you can have tomorrow:
https://www.gowifi.co.nz/power/type-c0503g.html
USB-C 5V 3A Gigabit IEEE802.3af/at PoE Splitter, TYPE-C0503G | Go Wireless NZ
I moved to AU but thanks for the link 🙂
I just need to figure/remember whether it's micro-usb or usb-c. Model page doesn't seem to detail. https://github.com/tube0013/tube_gateways/tree/main/models/current/tubeszb-cc2652-eth_usb
you can also use a PoE injector instead of switchport but switchport is nice cuz you can power cycle it remotely
well.. assuming you buy a fancy switch
Checking if mine is fancy enough, hahaha
Guessing micro from the solder pads on that PCB - the 5 in a line is typical of micro-B ports (2nd picture, next to "USB1" text on the PCB)
just look at it lol
It's in another building, cbf walking in there
or we can bug @marsh lichen again and ask him if your old model is usb-c or micro-usb
first world problems
only 2023 is usb-c
and it looks more like the poe
shape wise
anything round / square was micro usb
ok thanks. I can't see that my switch supports turning power on and off, though the APs do.
@tacit burrow you guys are getting raked across the coals for cheap chinese stuff
these should be $10-15 max
aps do?
aps dont provide power
Welcome to living at the arse end of the world
thought your cheaper tp link stuff had feature parity to unifi
Mine have one poe-passthrough as well as being poe themselves.
i see
Just digging into the port config for the switches...
I can see a bunch of usbc ones for AU$18 ish but not micro-usb yet. Looking into port config at the moment.
They don't think it be like it is, but it do 😦
tbh you can probably go to a local electronics store and find a PoE to micro usb splitter
they've been around for a long time and most cheap ones arent even GbE so it can be an old one that's been on the shelf for 10 years
or grab one from Ali likely better price than amz local au.
for poe?
it has pin for 3.3v
Ah, I can turn off port power, I was being blind.
didnt you and first add that to the hass integration?
not a great looking ui
well I have these local to me, albeit very expensive, but if I buy one with an AC they will make it cheaper
i wouldnt suggest that personally
🤷 That's just part of the popup for a single switch. There's tabs and stuff. Graphs etc are elsewhere.
i'd go ecobee or use a zwave or zigbee one
bro I don't even have zigbee or zwave
and I don't have to wait on something to ship
unifi++
bro but you could bro
Wow, I mean I had heard that Omada was copying UniFi's homework, but I hadn't realised it was quite so blatant
FWIW the 10/100 port is a computer that switched off but has remote management. Love It.
i mean omada, owned by tp-link, owned by chyna.. and chyna gonna chyna
yeah but for $736.00 I can have working AC and smart thermo tomorrow
y o l o
and I dunno if you know, but it's holy fuck degrees Fahrenheit here
I don't have an ESP lol
you can always resell to another not-as-cool-nerd later
nah, I can always give it to my mom
ya that
I asked em why they don't even have a Sensibo
apparently I'm the only person that's asked about a smart AC from their shop
well
but then again I live in a country where fuckers think a 10SEER AC is 'a good deal'
you can buy super cheap adapters like this for cheap that work on a lot of mini splits: https://cloudfree.shop/product/ductless-hvac-wi-fi-module/
and that 13SEER is 'top of the line'
I'm like y'all realize these are fucking illegal in the United States right?
lmfao
yeah but they have to support a usb module no?
ya but a lot of them are just chinese with 99% same components
when installing it i bet you find a usb port
if so, it almost guaranteed can have an esp32 added later
and even if it doesnt you can still use an esp32 with an ir transceiver setup to mimic a remote
but that's a bit more hacky
Pretty sure that's approximately what's inside a Sensibo 😄
They work pretty well, my major complaint when I was using one was I couldn't disable the heat pump's beep. Like me my silent changes
i bet a soldering iron could fix that
or a tiny hammer
oh I know I can hack it up later
Or the heat pump dying and getting quoted 60% of the price of a brand new one to repair, so being replaced by one with built-in WiFi (with local control even; Mitsubishi with "EchoNET Lite")
im in the process, I have one that doesn't work... compressor won't turn on
I was gonna hack it up, but when it's hot as balls you don't want to solder
Turns out they've ratcheted up the price of R410a in this country to about $800+tax / kg to try and encourage people to move to less environmentally-ruinous refrigerants. So was looking at $1300 just for the recharge, assuming you could even find the replacement coil for a obviously-Australian-market unit that had clearly been flogged off on the cheap in New Zealand.
You know it's bad when you say "r410, 1.4kg" to the person on the phone at the HVAC service company and hear a stifled giggle down the line
Before I go chasing rabbits, is anyone else having trouble with the UniFi integration?
happened to me in NZ too, except I ditched the whole split system and went ducted 😅
Lockwood house. Little difficult to change where the holes in the wall were made. High wall split system replaced with newer, better high wall split system.
Wish I could have gone ducted, but wasn't really on the cards at that particular juncture
ah yeah i know the kind, would've done the same in that situation
Network? Protect? One of the various other UniFi products?
Ended up in a rabbit hole, it's probably not the integration's fault. UDMP is stuck in a weird state
It's still running 1.x firmware because the 2.x upgrade was stalled due to a hung update to protect (which I don't even use) and now it refuses to take the upgrade claiming it's out of disk space (It's not) and that's where I am now.
Once I get that sorted out I'll see if the integration is still busted
Ah. Can't remotely help you there. Still a CK2+ user for cameras, replaced my switches/APs with other brands a while back
Ultimately the unifi stuff is really well priced for its performance and feature set, and it's usually pretty trouble free.....
Main thing was just that it was the only sanely priced hardware that supported >1gbe back when I bought it
Udmp should be on UniFi os 3.x dude…
It's less far behind than it sounds, since 2.x and 1.x ran side by side for a long time.
But yeah it's behind, because the update got wedged and there's no system for alerting the updates failed. Further, unifi network is still up to date, only the OS is behind (which you would only find out by going to system on the main page and checking the updates tab, something you never have any reason to do)
UDMP 3.0 works fine, DISABLE/uninstall the integration while doing the upgrades suggested by unifi
running a udmp 3.1.15, using it for tracking cell phones on the local wifi for presence
The fix ended up being going into SSH and manually removing the apps I wasn't using. They wouln't update or uninstall in the UI but via SSH they could be removed and that fixed the update
yeah, I had an issue awhile back where i couldn't "uninstall" apps, they appear to have fixed that now, but chicken-egg issue was there for you it sounds like
I've got a simple setup with udmp and dual isp's and 3 AP's, upgrade on it went fine (I removed boostchicken stuff before doing any upgrades)
The integration's working fine now after updating thankfully
Hi everyone. have not found anything on the internet on this.
Question: Can I host the SkyConnect dongle on a different machine than HA and connect to it via IP?
Background: Got HA running on an old machine in docker, want to retire that and move HA to Docker on a Synology - which is horrible with USB devices.
I am able to plug my Conbee II in a Raspberry Pi and add it to HA via its IP.
--> But I would like to buy a new SkyConnect dongle.
technically yes if you forward the USB port via ser2net or socat from the different machine
Hello, what is your opinion on the performance of Skyconnect? I have the Conbee II, and after migrating to Skyconnect, my remote devices started disconnecting. Also, when I control a group of lights, sometimes rapidly turning them on/off causes errors. When I look at the signal strength, for example, for one device, it's 255 on Conbee II and 168 on Skyconnect. I thought SkyConnect was a quality new hardware, but it seems that might not be true.
#zigbee-archived could help there
The strength number can't be compared between sticks though
Why? Does this mean that newer devices with the same 20 dB antenna performance, as stated by the manufacturer, are worse off than the older Conbee II devices?
Thank you for the input. I'll check that and see if it would work an a Synology out of the box without SSH stuff - there are ways to forward USB devices there but its unstable.
I am trying to avoid too much tinkering to have it stable.
why not get an ethernet zigbee gateway instead?
I was reviewing some but could not decide if its a good option regarding device support etc.
So basically I don't know about them too much and wanted to go with a known device or officially supported by HA. I had the Ikea hub once and it was shit. My existing Hue bridge does not seem to work for some devices either.
I flashed my sensibo with esphome because I was sick of 5-second latency...
Hey guys, im looking for a CO (carbon monoxide) detector which can be integrated in HA. Do you have any suggestions?
delete the protect app, update
Zigbee? Zwave? Wi-Fi, usa?
hi @jagged crypt sorry to bother you. Just to get this out of the way. This is not a better solution right? https://liliputing.com/intel-atlas-canyon-nuc-mini-pc-with-low-power-jasper-lake-chips-now-available/
depends on your needs, the price doesn't include memory or disk, so you have another cost, it'll be slightly slower depending on your needs. https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/4412vs3454/Intel-Celeron-N5105-vs-Intel-i5-9500T (about 60% the perf in single thread speeds). Idle power is probably lower (10tdp vs 35tdp), peak power is very much less. If you want to run more stuff on it, you'll want to pitch in more ram. $220 USD - https://www.newegg.com/intel-nuc-11-atkc4/p/2SW-000B-003S1 Build quality should be good (intel nucs). My guess is you'll be looking at $250 usd for something like this in the end (before VAT since you are buying new). It looks good to me, just depends on what your goal is, and how much you want to spend.
Does N series have an igpu that openvino and other things can use for hardware transcoding etc?
not sure, i push transcoding playback to clients as much as possible
Ya but say he wants to use frigate later, the 6500t can use openvino if he doesn’t have a coral for object detection
plex not frigate i thought
Best case could be a zigbee, because im still running a zigbee network. But im open for suggestions, if it is possible to integrate it with HA
any suggestions on something to measure amount of direct sunlight i get in a day? the bluetooth sensors dont have enough range?
Zigbee "LUX" sensors perhaps?
you can add a couple bt proxies if you like your current bt solution sans range
I dont think they could reach that far outside
You might also find that neither are most of them designed to live outside. Might last a couple of years if you're lucky, but liable to turn their toes up early from moisture ingress.
So many IP20 (if they even achieve that) rated devices
Put them in a plastic bag, tupperware, whatever 😄
Thanks @jagged crypt ! It would be a more expensive solution with worst performance. Only things in favour are the fact that is new and the TDP but of course power consumption will always be higher if the machine is better. I think I will go to the one we talked about even tough someone told me that is way overkill. But I think I can use it for many things so...
Put proxmox on it 😉
that's for me? If yes, it's the idea
I'm just hopping that I can run HAOS as it is intended to. I mean, with all the features and use Frigate and so on
btw, I don't have many devices to connect to HA, I can count them by the fingers os my hands but I want to expand
Don't see why not. HAOS works fine in a VM and is much easier to troubleshoot that way too. Not all that familiar with frigate
great!
I run haos in a proxmox vm
at 0.13usd the kWh and running 24/7, I think the power consumption is not a lot
@agile olive you're in a area of hardware where things are +/- 30 USD/EUR
I pay >$0.40 USD kwh, but thankfully the house I just moved into came with a massive solar setup
northern california
the bill is mixed, it's like 0.27 for energy, and anotehr 0.13 for transport, net net, >0.40 a kwh
ok ok
anyway, I always think about the cost because the idea (of course!) is to have this running 24/7
June 7-July 8, house usage was 560 kwh, bill was $253.03 USD, == $0.4518 kwh
if the bill is lower due to automations but then I pay for the brain to work, it's irrelevant
I'm migrating my docker HA setup to one of these right now. 😄
174 kWh here from 8 July to 7 August => 41.42€
Think I spent about $200 for a barebones one with a 1tb ssd and 16gb memory
but solar system + tesla batteries that came with the house = https://owncloud.dhp.com/index.php/s/qobC4y5L2hsYy4S = $0.00/kwh 🙂
tell us how it goes. I will change my hardware only in two weeks or so, I'm going on vacations
I wish... I live in an apartment and here the solar is not "that easy"
it's like if the government owns the sun
🙂
I imagine the restore isn't going to get everything back up, but we'll see.
haha, i just moved out of the city (two weeks ago lived in oakland, california)
I just moved from paying .35-.50 cents/kwh to .09 for the first 500 and .15 after that
So nice lol
because you changed place?
😄
we're getting out of the topic but... I live in Lisbon, Portugal. The houses are more expensive than London, Paris, etc
😄
no gas here, just electric, and I'm sending it back. Will see how thing change in the winter time (re: PG&E)
Nice. My fiance was portugese.
haven't been to lisbon, closest I've been is Barcelona (yes I know that's spain....)
glad you know HAHA
I guess technically Rabat is closer (been there also)
anyway, in an apartment is not easy to lower the bill. I still can have some solar panels but is not ideal
it is in fact closer
Zephirus, yeah, 175 kwh isn't bad. My 560 was two of us doing normal things. This new place, we have aircon, but effectively get it for free from the solar (which is nice, because we're on track for 3x energy usage, and temps are higher here)
two person here also but one week on vacations (yes, I'm always on vacations)
congrats on the vacations!
working from home3/4 days
it's less expensive here in fact. not the same for salaries 😄
anyways, to bring it back to "topic of channel", i think you have the the idea of comparisions of what you are looking to do. Someone earlier mentioned, are you trying to use frigate? Or just plex? (in addition to the HAOS)
I had HAOS with integrated frigate (I can have standalone, right) but I want it in HA
I haven't tackled frigate yet, obviously running inside a hypervisor gives you the ability to run other things stand alone if you want
I just had HA because I was using a PI, so no room for more. Now, besides HA, I want to use Plex (or similar), have some sort of own cloud (don't need anything fancy) and I will for sure use it to create other vms for other stuff
If you get something more powerful you can easily run all that stuff in docker containers.. no need for full blown vm's
not sure there's much different impact on vm's vs docker containers, whatever you are more comfortable with 🙂
proxmox has lxc containers, but no personal experience with limitations with them
containers should be more resource efficient
damn! the one I was going to buy is gone 😦 The lenovo thinkcentre tiny m920q i5 9500t 16gb-ddr4 ssd 256gb for 190€
in theory yes, in practice, you're going to end up with shared resources across your VM's already in the hypervisor
yes, I was thinking about using docker
Honestly I had no issues running HA in docker either, I just want to move it to my IOT network for matter/thread and having its own hardware will make it a bit more robust.
you can run a docker-vm (with multiple containers) + a haos-vm in proxmox.... 🙂
ok, so the "good one" is gone
I have these options for now:
ThinkCentre M710Q tiny, i3 7100, 8G DDR4, SSD 256Gb (150€)
ThinkCentre M715Q tiny, AMD PRO A6-8570E 3GHz, 8Gb RAM SSD 240Gb (163€)
ThinkCentre M73 tiny, i5 4th generation 4590 3.3ghz, 8GB RAM, SSD 128GB (75€)
ThinkCentre M720Q tiny, i3-9100T, 16GB RAM, SSD 128GB (160€)
ThinkCentre M73 tiny, i5 4570T, 16GB RAM, SSD 240GB (130€)
Without actually researching them the 9100T looks the most appealing to me
without searching stay away from those amd ones
but the TDP is 51W and the 4590 is 84W!
yes, the AMD is out already 😄
the 9500T (the one that is gone) was only 35W, I think I missed a good deal
35w shouldn't be "only"
my bad! the 9100T is 35W
@jagged crypt does this 9100T have the feature you were talking about? the remote something
VT-PRO
CPUs don't always consume 100% of their max power and TDP isn't that reliable a way to determine it
He was talking about IPMI style management but frankly that won’t be used often at all
impact, yeah, had that dicussion yesterday, my 35w tdp i5-6500 system, idles/runs at 15watts
the IPMI value is subjective on install location and your tolerance for dealing with the box when you are debugging things that involve rebooting a lot
If it's going to be next your normal computer desk, and you have a keyboard/monitor for it, low value. If it's in a closet two floors down.....
If he’s installing something like proxmox it would only be used for initial setup unless something goes wrong
I know
SmartHomeSellout, yup, it's what value on the debugging time, and the physical location of the box
it's in a closet, not ideal if I need to connect a monitor...
exactly!
haos on proxmox debugging is remote console on proxmox UI 🙂
what do you mean?
sorry "VPRO"
ok
Specifically AMT I presume: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Active_Management_Technology
you may need a monitor or a stub plugged in to get it to work fully
I have a m910q and never even set it up lol
so, 9500T with 16Gb RAM, 256Gb SSD for 190€ is gone. best option now is 9100T, 16Gb, 128Gb for 160€. That was real a good deal
More deals will pop up if you just set alerts
just initially. Then it goes in the closet
sure, for now it's the 9100T, I will try to find the 9500T
no, local site similar to ebay
Oh
on ebay it's too expensive
basically, anything on ebay other than .com, comes from the US so the delivery is a lot
Btw have you looked at used laptops too?
not ideal, I want something small
Ones with a broken screen or keyboard are cheap sometimes
I see
Even tho it’s going in a closet? Lol
Added benefit is they have battery for if you lose power
I use my ipmi often - as I leave my backup/dev proxmox box off most of the time, it it's not accessible without a ladder.
Did you check ebay near you? Lots of these boxes around. You want 16GB of ram, it's short-sighted to just get 8 for the tiny saving. Ditto 256GB disk vs 128GB.
he's tried
How about next country over? SHipping may be cheap enough to cover the difference. WHere is s/he? Pricing in euros
I'm in Portugal. I've searched on every ebay in EU
as I said, most come from US
I have to take a look again
I can have two disks on these boxes right? From what I see...
I don't know, I only have one. Maybe you can add a m.2 stick.
There's not a lot of room
I believe there's an mPCIe slot, but it's intended for WLAN
From spainaahh that's from US, sorry
otherwise, it looks good
some of the boxes have nvme and can install a 2.5" drive with a caddy ($15 usd)
Seems like lots if you change the selector to continental europe...
mine came with nvme ssd, and I bought cady "just in case" I wanted to do something else, odds are it'll be unused, as I can just swap in a 1tb nvme
But up close to 200 euros. Mine are sata ssd I think. Not sure I cared.
Some of those options appear to support 2 disks, so maybe hardware supports it. I don't speak portugese though.
162e for 6500t with 16GB ram and a 256GB SSD. Plus 35e shipping.
thanks. I can get that one with 16GB RAM and SSD 480GB for 160€ (including shipping)
170€ sorry
6500T is good enough for what I need, I think
I'm lowering a bit after loosing the other deal
One of mine is 6500t, and it works great. HA (on proxmox) takes <5% CPU
Make sure you have a display-port cable. Most of these don't have hdmi
(check the specs on the one you buy)
i had to rob the dp cable from my pc to set it up lol
also make sure you upgrade the bios before you wipe windows 10/11 off of it @agile olive
ok
it's much easier to use the lenovo windows updater tool than it is to do it via CLI after you wipe it
^ that link has what you need
I assume someone has linked him the article on HA+proxmox?
yes, twice 😄
ops, not that one, it's a first for me
so... ThinkCentre M910Q tiny, i5 6500T, 16GB RAM, SSD 480GB (170€) it seems like a good deal right?
a lot of us have these yes
idk about good deal with your euro monopoly bucks tho
lol
that's about the same as 1/2 of mine. my other one is the same except 7500t
What are you planning on doing with the box? If you want to run lots of VMs, and there is option to upgrade it for not too much $, may think about that
well, everything is so expensive so...
You should try buying stuff in AU/NZ sometime heheh
other option: ThinkCentre M910Q tiny, i5 7500T, 8GB RAM, SSD 240GB (170€)
16gb ram prob isnt even enough if you want to use it for your server
you said youre gonna use it for plex and stuff right?
7500T is only like 10% faster.
I was on a Raspberry Pi 4 with 4Gb
This will kick rpi ass
if you're using it for plex and transcoding to ram (you should) then 16gb ram isnt enough
i'm not tanscoding
that's what they all say
anyway, I can always upgrade to 32 later
Interestingly on amazon there are minisforum bare ones with a 5600# for 230 as barebone
If someone is in the market for those
i have 4gb of ram in my server and its fine and usage is below 50%
If you're just running HA 4GB is fine, but if you're running lots of addons, or non-HA VMs, more is better.
16gb is not enough the moment you run anything backed by zfs
I didn't read all the way back. Is he planning on running zfs/truenas on this box?
proxmox and using stuff like plex
I have no idea but given current prices for ddr4 are at a huge low
Id just get 32 or 64gig
+tailscale
ya it's worth not having to take it apart to just pay the extra $20 for double the ram at 32gb imo
I may want to try TrueNAS yes
If you can pay 20 for upgrade to 32GB, do it regardless
i'm just throwing a # out there idk
you'll almost certainly run out of ram before cpu
For Plex/jellyfin an Intel based CPU would be highly recommend
That easily passes through into an lxc
I'm buying used and it comes with either 8 or 16Gb. I will go to 16Gb for sure
I can upgrade to 32 later (I think is the limit)
yeah, that'll be fine. my NAS is a separate box from my Vm hosts. Then I can live-migrate VMs between proxmox nodes, luuuuverly
fwiw upgrade will probably involve throwing away current ram, and replacing; not just adding 16
It's 25 bucks a dimm
fuck my old link for m910q at $80 isnt working anymore
no comments
this always happens in the in-between period of 2 standards
starts out high, stabilises but decreses over time, drops hard when new standard is starting to be used, after every new pc ships with new one price rises again
Yes which is why now is a great time to buy compatible stuff
Even more as it overlaps with ssds being cheap nowadays
i dont expect ssd prices to rise unless some major chip shortage
Oh they find another way to magical make the numbers go up again
Or to sell us more qlc garbage
wait untill you get plc ewaste
The storage controller running node scripts

And all of that just to not give us 3.5" ones
ssd that doesent store anything, just a ai accelerator that makes up data on the go
yea an ai filesystem
You just look for your homework and it's always there
FYI backup and restore worked perfectly. New HA OS on the NUC is running nicely.
cool
Snappier than the old docker instance too
why'd you go haos over proxmox and haos virtualized?
nothing else you need to run on it?
Nope. I wanted an isolated/stable platform for just HA.
nothing wrong with that
i run haos on a used laptop bare metal
separate from my server and network and cameras etc
It's the lower end nuc with the celeron, but plenty for just HA
ya i would've bought a mini pc like https://www.ebay.com/itm/285185388260 instead myself
celeron is just a bad word
I had been wanting to move from docker to HAOS anyways, and matter/thread made me choose to put the nuc on my IOT vlan instead of dicking around with macvlan networks on my docker host
Indeed.
zigbee, zwave, and wifi do everything we need them to with home assistant to be the man in the middle
Still fun to play with though
not in my eyes
scroll up in #thread-archived and #matter-archived and tell me that looks fun
user 1: ree border router issues.
user 2: ree ipv6 issues
user 3: ree firewall and mdns issues
user 4: reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Eh no biggie.
My idea of fun is sometimes strange 😉
I already had thread/matter working in docker, but haos made it easier
i see
I was surprised the backup/restore from docker -> haos worked so well though
I don't think anything is missing lol
ye
Anyone suggest best way to automate a new AC? Probably going to buy
https://www.mitsubishielectric.com.au/product/msz-ap25-80vgd-split-system-air-conditioner/
There's an optional "wifi control" but it sounds cloudy.
I found random feature request.. https://community.home-assistant.io/t/mitsubishi-aircon/37454
Hi Guys, I have only been using HA for about 2 weeks now, and I love it. Thanks for all of the hard work that has been done so far! I have ordered some TPLink HT100 units to play with. I am hoping to use my AirCon split system which is a Mitsubishi, it isn’t listed yet. The system has a iphone/android app which I currently use. This is A...
It can probably be used with the esp32 esphome usb adapters
You can diy them as well
I’ve heard good things about Mitsubishi mini splits but when researching a bit more they’re basically all carbon copies of two different Chinese models. So you can save a lot of money by not buying Mitsubishi and instead getting an almost identical model that guaranteed can work with the esphome method above
@tacit burrow Make sure it has a MAC-568-IF-E
Then you can use "EchoNET Lite" for local control: https://github.com/scottyphillips/echonetlite_homeassistant
There are a few models of WiFi adapter, but that's the only one with the local control protocol available
Also there are 3 different Mitsubishi cloud services depending on where you live in the world. The AU/NZ one is kinda gross. Fortunately you just have to go through the onboarding, then never need to use it again 🙂