Does anybody have a recommendation for a remote control that is compatible with Home Assistant? I am talking about some battery-powered portable device that interfaces with WiFi/Zigbee/etc that can be added as a device/entity/etc in HA so that I can trigger automations by pushing buttons on it. I have some old insteon mini remotes that work, but those are of course hard to obtain and I don't want to invest in any more Insteon stuff. I did find one zigbee remote on amazon that looks like it should work, but I'm not sure if there are options that people are using.
#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 32 of 1
depends on what you mean by "thin client", but my SFF i5 x86 box that was released in ~2011 is much better than any Pi could hope to be
Single or multi-button?
Multi-button. Maybe half a dozen? I'd rather not have a pile of them.
Oh, nice. Thanks
(Google searches for "remote" are so annoying since you get things like remote access, harmony remotes, and so on...)
Oh, I assume any of that stuff would work with HA and the SkyConnect?
Probably
It'll work with Zigbee2MQTT
It probably will work with ZHA
#zigbee-archived could provide feedback if you ask about specific devices
I assume you can't use the SkyConnect with zigbee2mqtt? Honestly, I got the SkyConnect before doing any research into how HA uses Zigbee. It didn't occur to me that there would be multiple implementations, and that the device recommended by the official website seems to use a different implementation than everybody that seems to be using homeassitant. 🙂
Still, this is a useful starting point.
I'm using some 4 button lora tap ones which I picked up on aliexpress.
You can, it's just not as well supported
Greetings,
Any reference to how to set up skyconnect with Z2mqtt , please?
Also, Do I need to install the silicon multilabs add on before using it ?
Thanks in advance, and apologies if this is not the right thread
Is this a good option :
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0BRSS5ZXT
In what context?
I want to make a home server with home assistant
Im using Lenovo Thinkcentre M92p tiny, which got i5-3470T, 4GB ram and 256gb SSD. I'm running 2 cameras in Frigate with Coral and it avg 2.2gb ram usage (peaks at 2.4gb), cpu steady at 45%, ~25W usage. Before I got coral was cpu 85-95% and 35W. Also got Z2M with 6 devices.
thank you! have you tried it before? I have seen many alternatives but I see a lot of complaints from all products
That link is just the case
I have almost exactly the same box (16GB RAM/upgraded SSD) and it handles all my server needs, including HA & Frigate with Coral. 45% constant load seems kinda high, though.
almost always worth sticking in more ram. 🙂
16GB is pretty much my minimum for any machine
In any case, those machines are awesome for the price
Cheap and plentiful on the refurb market
so many little machines out there which are pretty similar spec and size wise 🙂
Not all markets
true. a bias I need to remember.
3% CPU is deepstack, 40% is frigate... Im running both cameras at 1440x810 5fps
yes I know case + sata drive port
nanoleaf essentials 3-pack bulbs are 50% off in hong kong
$8.27 usd per bulb with free shipping
probably getting a bunch
she was not convinced haha
is there anything one could buy to convert a chain-pull ceiling fan to a smart one? or like a pull attachment of some kind?
vs splicing something into it's power source and leaving it on?
Sonoff ifan04
Purchased , will let you know how it goes
Just saw you are the author ! Haha
I used your link , but I switched pages then
I don't know if ended counting to you
@zealous dune
Are there devices that are all hardwired together instead of using wireless stuff for thread/matter ? or its all only about wireless protocols?
Thread is a low-power and low-latency wireless mesh networking protocol
Yeah, by definition Thread is wireless
Matter could use wired networking I suspect, but #matter-archived would know
Matter can technically be wired since its IP
but its still primarily designed and built for wireless
So if I wanted no wireless devices in my home automation system are there nice cheap systems to support this like how would you do stuff like all the lights and plugs in your house?
if you have wires you don't need protocols
at worst its a central controller connected to HA server via Ethernet
Ok so what hardware would I use to connect these devices to HA
a board with tons of relays and an MCU of your choice
Any recommendations to get me started?
Thank you, that may be a little difficult to retrofit separating lights and sockets from each other.
you don't retrofit wired control systems
you do it from scratch
otherwise all the wifi retrofit tuya crap wouldn't sell at all
I was hoping to find something that was like a bulb with two screw terminals in the side where you can attach microcontroller leads or simple single plugs with the same.
Then I could run low voltage wires to all the devices to switch them.
but if you can run low voltage wires you can use the central controller
more costly to rerun all the high voltage wire I would just put an ethernet micro in each room to switch the low voltage wires to each device.
an ethernet micro? and how are you getting the ethernet wires to the micro?
Already have ethernet outlets in every room
so your plan is to have a switch with ethernet wires going to every control point?
Basically like this
All these would go back to a PoE ethernet esp32 running ESPHome in each room.
no that doesent exist
and it shouldn't 😄
yup
Ok thank you
and if you're doing it wired you have no need for plugs
one of the request adjective was cheaper
so i just skipped KNX
That's an oxymoron
but no, there are rpi and esp32 central control boards
but still more expensive than tuya or zigbee
16channel relay board goes brrr
or 128 IO board 😄
just slap a siemens simatic and bunch of io modules 
I'm looking for a temp sensor that dosen't run on batteries (seems like all of them do that now), is mountable in a wallbox and has Z-wave or Zigbee communication.
Does anyone have any tips? or do i need to make one my self.
For wired light control that can do more than on-off you could look at DALI (or maybe DMX, but I have no experience with that).
Only DIY
do you know if anyone has made some and posted it on this server? (for inspiration)
If they did there's a search function
ahh of course forgot about that 🤦🏻♂️
Just use ESPHome with a $2 i2c temp module attached to it
Are you saying just dmx you have no exp and use dali or both no exp?
DALI I have installed myself.
I use Osram OTi drivers for my leds. They were <20€ each - ~15W CC
Do you have pictures of the setup?
But there is quite a variety available. Eg. TCI Jolly, EldoLed, Lunatone, Meanwell, ... even Lamps directly made for DALI (quite expensive though)
These are just led Drivers hidden in my ceiling. I control these via a Knx-Dali gateway since my main installation is Knx. There are Dali-native switches too, but I don't have those.
I removed the standard drivers of my https://www.slv.com/de_de/occuldas-13-117351-2756 for those. But this works with pretty much any lamp.
Aeotec multisensors can run off USB power, at least the multisensor 6 can. Z-Wave, includes temp alongside other stuff, unsure if it meets your mountability constraint.
that looked pretty nice, but not a cheap one
yeah, z-wave is rarely cheap, heh. the ESPHome suggestion may be the best for your case, but it's wifi, not zwave or zigbee
i need 10 to control my heating system in my house.
so, yeah i might need to diy it. but i need to 3d print a holder or something so i can mount then and still look pretty
Has anyone with SwitchBot curtain rod openers found that the motorized roller spins on the rod without enough grip?
I’m wondering if there are tactics to make the rod more friction full.
Anyone familiar with Leviton switches? Any idea why OnOff would say read only when trying to set it? I can view/set other stuff
@delicate karma https://shop.homeseer.com/products/z-wave-indicator-light-sensor. Not designed for this use case but cheap and has temperature
New here and to HA so apologies if this is the wrong place. Or just a stupid question. I bought a zigbee outlet that is not being found on HA (w skyconnect). It is being found by my old smartthings that I'm trying to transition away from. I have found other zigbee devices (bulbs, lock, etc.) without a problem on HA so I know my adapter works. Q: are there brands that HA doesn't work with or should any zigbee item connect and I'm missing something obvious?
Did you put it in pairing mode?
Yes, any device that doesn't follow Zigbee specification will not work out of the box with ZHA, as for brands that would usually be Tuya and it's derivatives
Kasa 3 way switch, can just one switch be used on a 3way circuit or can just one kasa switch and a common 3 way switch be used together?
Ok, so i got this device controlled over IR and I need a way to know if it’s on or off. I have no way of accessing the wiring of any kind, all I have is a red led that turns off when device is on (and no, I can’t access the led wires either). Is there any sensor I can put over that led that would sense the light and act as a switch? Was thinking of using an aqara door sensor and replace the reed switch with some photo sensitive sensor to act as a switch. Please , I need ideas.
Something like this perhaps? https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Aqara_GZCGQ11LM.html
i tink that detects ambient light levels in lux
wouldnt work for a led
i would use esphome and https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005001659400620.html
oh. Can test that with mine. But you're probably right then
Sorry, this item's currently unavailable in your location.
😦
Well... In a pitch black room, it actually detects 6 lx when led is on, reports 1 lx othewise, so not a huge diff
it is a led from a NOUS smart plug, so not very bright
and checking again I take that back. led on and detects 2 lx, so agreed, it does not work
Yes. I was successfully able to connect it to both an echo speaker (which I don't use as a hub but to confirm that the outlet 'worked') as well as my old ST. And I have successfully connected other zigbee devices to my HA.
Does anyone know of a portable led lamp (attachable to a wall) that can be controlled by Zigbee/wifi/bluetooth?
Hello guys. I need sonoff dongle p windows driver. 2652p chip.
thats a weird question
why
?
if i'm in the wrong area i can certainly head somewhere else, their page directly references this discord, but no particular channel that i noticed
btw, just took a quick look at your blog...seems nice
I'm looking to get a Aqara Roller Shade Driver E1, but i can only find it from resellers on ebay or some questionable aliexpress listings, is this unusual? is there some secret more-trustworthy place i could find one?
Jump to #zigbee-archived and provide as much detail as possible and logs pasted to dpaste.org or similar will also help
No alie is fine but some ‘stores’ on there are better than others
Newer aqara stuff is alie only not amazon from what I’ve seen although a couple of their new products are on Amazon like the pet feeder and motion sensors
I've wasted more money trying to save money on Ali. Amazon returns are too easy. But if I get something I know 100% I'll keep Ali is good. I got 5 Aqara buttons for less then the price of 2 on Amazon
Because I already had theit buttons and liked them.
But I've never got scammed. I've got crappy products I didn't want
Or EU version of switches, (they didn't say if they were EU or us) so only my fault
There’s nothing wrong with buying off alie. There is a lot wrong about throwing your money at a random seller though
And I'll add random products. Lol
Are you turning off notifications on your replies to me? I can’t reply accordingly without them
Why do some sensors(all identical btw) change state and others change a different key in the json? What was ADT doing when they set them up?
Thanks for the recommendation on that light strip controller @cold moon , just set up the LS-5P and this thing is legit.
Athom
I’ve never used any of their wled controllers myself just their wled flashed bulbs
Should be fine tho
I diy them with esps
Seems to be. I checked reviews and, as usual, most of the negative reviews were from people who did dumb stuff like connect it to a dimmer and then get all surprised when it fried the device when they started cranking the brightness up and down from the power supply instead of the app.
Yea
I might get on this level when I get round to the under cabinet lighting my wife periodically mentions wanting.
Hey folks I am running into a high memory usage issue where over span of 3 days I will go from 6% to 91% memory usuage. That’s with 16GB ram using HAOS on bare metal optiplex HW. All add one are off. How can I identify what’s driving the memory usage.
Run docker stats via the SSH addon and install glances and potentially InfluxDB and grafana to store and anlyze the data. Not really #hardware-archived related
Got mine through amazon uk.
Most EU Amazon stores carry it
(I say I got. my parents bought for me 😉 I'm apparently hard to buy for, so they tell me to put stuff on my wishlist.)
If I understand Skyconnect correctly it will act as a hub and remove the need for things like Hue hub etc?
So basically, I could setup my HA on my nuc + Skyconnect and it's all the 'hub' I need?
yup and skyconnect isnt the only device supported
there is list here https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/
Thanks! Which one is often recommended to get as a starting point?
take a look at the pins in #zigbee-archived
Thanks
Hello there! Hope everyone is having a good day. I'm looking for a doorbell that would do two way audio and send me notifications when the button is pressed. PoE and camera preferably. Also, I'm trying to keep everything local through MQTT and Zigbee2MQTT.
I saw a Reolink one but I can't tell if it'll work fully locally or not
Any recommendations?
Thanks a lot 🙏🏽
reolink one
I need to set up home presence detection with ble. Not in need of room detection. Is there any good ble devices that would be able to span about a 75 foot radius that I could use centrally in my home. Or would I need multiple devices spread out to achieve this?
I'd expect you need multiple
esphome bluetooth proxy info from bdraco:
If you are making active connections it’s recommended to deploy the proxies in pairs on opposite sides of the room since when a connection is in progress it cannot receive advertisements.
If the rooms are close enough it won’t matter so much about having two per room since the active connection range is much shorter than the advertisement reception range
You just need a second one in advertisement range while the other one is connecting. Usually that can be anywhere in a 2500sqft house
Deploy one per every 625sqft with a minimum of 2 and you are good
I just read bluetooth proxies support only 3 active connections. We have a minimum of 6 devices. I don't think it will work in this case
Presence detection doesn't need active connections
Anyone have recommendations for a wifi or zigbee garage door opener controller (with a button for my wall either included or separate)? The current button I have just bridges two wires https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/485888906223419392/1131625102774112266/image.png
When it comes to light switches, what do you guys do: use the in-wall dimmer switches, or smart bulbs? Both have advantages and disadvantages I guess, doubting what I should go for
I think the best way to approach the switch vs. bulb question is to think about what you want to do, and what things you're able & willing to mess with. Change colors & whites? You need bulbs. Want something on the wall? You either need switches or you need to add wall remotes and block off the switches so they don't interfere with smart bulb operation. No neutral? Switches might be annoying to find/use. If what you're doing is simple on/off or dimming of white bulbs, you can probably make either version work, but depending what you want you might need either or both.
@cold moon I remember you linking out to a setup for doing wifi controllers with individually controlled LEDs in this channel would you mind reminding me what you liked there?
or maybe it was in the zigbee channel
does anyone know if it's possible to tell a Hue motion sensor to ignore certain areas?
Hi. I plan to move to new home. In old home I had rpi4 4gb ram + conbee v1 USB stick+USB attached SSD. All dedicated to home assistant.
Any recommendations for initial setup at my new home?
Should I pick similar rpi4 + some trending ZigBee USB stick (with most supported devices), or try home assistant yellow, or opt in for some other mini PC?
County Lithuania (Europe). Budget 150-250€
Then I will need some 220V light switches and dimmers and some room thermostats. Preferably all ZigBee.
Currently when buying new ZigBee peripherals I was always afraid, that they won't be supported in conbee proprietary deconz. And pairing was quite often a challenge. But user interface is quite user friendly. 🙂
I got a cheap mini pc from the Prime Day sale and a sonoff zigbee stick. First time setting up an HA system and it's working great
I saw that those sonoff ZigBee sticks are quite trending now. Is it supported by Zigbee2MQTT and ZHA? Which one did you choose?
SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus is a universal Zigbee USB stick. It can be used as a Zigbee gateway in Home Assistant, openHAB, Zigbee2MQTT, or other open-source platforms to locally control all your Zigbee devices, so you don't need to invest in different brands' Zigbee hubs, all you need is a...
The P stick is known to have QC issues
The E stick is still experimental in Z2M
There are many other choices
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Wow that antenna is huge. Wonder how home assistant yellow integrated ZigBee reception compare to such antenna
Too many options 😄
Easy answer then:
- Buy something CC2652 if you want to use Zigbee2MQTT
- If you want to use ZHA, doesn't matter whether you buy CC2652 or EZSP
The bot message recommends two CC2652 options, and Slaesh is a good third choice
The SkyConnect is the new hotness for EZSP, but there's loads of others
I didn't decide where I am heading from deconz z2m or ZHA :-).
Didn't try either. But I would like to have optimal supported devices+reliability option 🙂
#zigbee-archived can tell you more, but it's six of one, half a dozen of the other
Neither are a bad choice
Thanks. What about host devices? Rpi4, ha yellow or some other mini PC?
Not a Pi, never a Pi
which really means 'mini pc' 😉 Almost any will do.
may be worth going for a refurb, may be worth going for something low powered. (it'll still beat a pi). can be worth looking at the tdp.
My latest pi4 setup did not fail me for the last 2 years. Only got issues before that with pi3 and SD card 🙂
Mini PC means even more options to choose from 🙂
There should be a recommended oresets lists per budget ranges of recommendations.
Maybe there is such list somewhere?
No, because options vary across the planet
Plus managing such a list is a full time job for a team of people
and things like power consumption matter differently to different people
Probably you are right as such list would be outdated quickly
get an N100 based mini pc, they currently run around 150eur depending on memory and ssd
Something explicit. Thank you! 🙂
i need something to host HA that is cheap and restarts on power outage + starts on power input automatically. Any suggestions? Used optiplexes?
Search "mini" in this channel and you'll find tons
well I want a NUC, but the SFF pc's work just as well
any pc made in the last 30 years can start after power loss also
on preatty much any pc in bios you will have a option to automatically turn on when power is applied
not really man the bios has to have the option
my used laptop doesnt 😦
u sure?
well laptops are special
which laptop?
hp something
🤮
im not gonna go look at the bottom of it
8th gen intel i7
runs haos and a bunch of addons including frigate
man your 'used' laptop is better than my main PC
it was free
cries in poor
lady spilled water on the keyboard and broke the screen
wasnt worth fixing so she upgraded and gave it to me for parts
i have same gen laptop and i am preaty sure i saw a option for wake on ac
not for mine i looked real gud
if he says it's not there, I believe him
it has no keyboard or screen
it's not worth the energy to get a monitor and keyboard connected to triple confirm
it's a very very barebones bios
yup that is tru
i'm sure i could roll my own but damn that is too much work
i have it on a ups.. worst case if power is out for long periods i have to go push a button
i thought about soldering to the button with esphome
you run server off that "laptop"
yeah
server?
HA he means
i have an old dual xeon server for actual server stuff
i run haos on it with smart home related things on it
lga2011?
i have an old Xeon that's not much good other than as a space heater and white noise generator
buy me a new one
13 days uptime 🤮
i have 1 dual lga2011 workstation
and one dual lga2011 server
i had a breaker go bad
i have the ups from that network closet on a fuckin extension cable for now
til i can call a sparky and fix the breaker
I have a 6th gen i7 main PC, 8th gen i5 laptop, and 4th gen i7 lpatop that I'm typing on
I have a few PC's stashed under my workbench as well but I'm not even interested in those
oh I forgot my HA system is core2quad also
and it's all connected to the internet by pigeons
fun times
https://www.serverbuilds.net/anniversary i have this as a secondary server
Serverbuilds.net
2x e5 2690, 128gb of ram 
yup they cheap but mobos are pricy
mine was $140 on that link
and aliex stuff is not viable for servers since it lacks power state options
dual 10gbe and built in lsi 2008 card
this is depressing
drowns his sorrows in a coca-cola
this is the rack server i have
i love that stuff
cries carbonated tears
Man… all my dumb switches are wired with no neutral…
I bought 5 switches on an auction site and was pumped and didn’t look close enough to realize that they all require neutral and I have none lol
Not gonna do that yourself?
Didn’t there used to be a pinned post in here about Raspberry Pi vs NUC hardware for running HAOS? Or was that in #installation-archived?
Not touching the breaker box itself for insurance purposes
can somone recomend some good led strips that dont cost as mutch as those from Phillips but are compatible Home Assistant?
I need approx. 4 meters of led strip for my bedroom
BTF Lighting
I do ws2812 strips with an esp running wled for strips. They integrate well into home assistant and aren't bad for price
They'll all be individually addressable strips, they may have different max brightness though (looking at those eco I bet they are lower power)
Pixels per meter though will be something you want to look at
Basically led density, that'll define how much power you need for your strip and potentially if you need power injection (just another run of power lines from your supply to the other end of the strip)
CPU usage drops to 4-5% if I unplug cameras
Any suggestions for outdoor cameras? i was looking at tapo c310 but i guess the power plug should be inside which is not good for me.
POE is the way to go for security cameras.
Amcrest and Reolink are both generally affordable as those things go and integrate with HA.
i was thinking wifi devices because there are power plugs outside already
Amcrest has WiFi cameras, they just need power then to them
Unless you're looking for battery powered wifi cams, I don't know if amcrest has those
i wouldnt use wifi for security stuff
wifi deauth and other vulnerabilities disqualify it
many wifi cameras have micro sd card in them to store the footage
so simply firstly deauthing wifi and then physically stealing the device removes all evidence
not really needed for security because of no bad people around... more of a surveillance of aroundings..
then its fine
you could use esp32cam then
i have couple of those but they have no night vision and low fps
low fps if cam quality is set way up
https://hackermagnet.com/night-vision-on-esp32-cam/
and ir is solvable
I use a ESP32CAM module as a front door camera. It's flashed with ESPHome and it's connected with Home Assistant. THe biggest disadvantage of this module is the lack of night vision. The EPS32 module comes with an OV2640 camera. The standard lens has an IR filter which blocks infrared radiation. You could remove that
Hi, I just ordered a lot hardware like a new 2.5 GbE Switch and a Minis Forum (https://www.amazon.de/MINIS-FORUM-i5-12450H-8-Kern-CPU-Mini-Desktop-Computer/dp/B0BZCJL4J8). I planned to install Proxmox on this hardware. My first idea was to install ZoneMinder and Home Assistant in Proxmox but I'm planning to use Frigate with a Google Coral Accelerator now.
I'm a noob, so could you help me to choose the correct accelerator? ^^ Is the USB variant okay? And will everything work fine with Proxmox + HomeAssistant and Frigate container + accelerator?
Thank you very much.
usb one is fine but its expensive
do you need a wifi card in that minis forum pc? bc coral accelerator can be installed in that slot
No, I don't. I will use ethernet.
Do you have a link to the bc coral accelerator? I'm looking here: https://coral.ai/products/ but don't know which one is "bc". 😄
They probably meant to say because
Are you sure? Not all m.2 slots are the same even if it’s the right key
Mobo needs traces for it and support for it
a+e key one is a single accelerator module and uses single pcie lane
Ah
single acceleator has 3 kind of connectivity
pcie gen2x1, usb 2 and usb 3
i doubt he even needs a coral with that cpu
yup
my 8th gen intel cpu handles frigate with 9 cams and 2 streams
what is the combined fps of cameras?
combined?
it doesent matter how many cameras you have, what matters is the sum of fps
coral can do 100+ fps
idk
it's over 100
45 just for doorbell for one stream
- 25 times 3
- 30 times 2
- 45 times 2
and that's just for the high stream not detect medium streams too
what is your inference speed?
@rich venture Just to be sure. Is this https://geizhals.de/coral-m-2-accelerator-a-e-key-g650-04527-01-a2580720.html the same like you linked? I want to order in Germany. And can I be sure that this setup will work? ^^
yes
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
gx53 is a weird and poo standard. For whatever reason my builders put two ultra Chinese ceiling fans in that use gx53 lights 😔
part of me wants to replace both fans but that is expensive and wasteful
part of me kinda wants to build this Russian circuit board.. what could possibly go wrong 😅
any suggestions for apex/triangle window curtains/shades/something that are controllable? (preferrably something that is "affordable") US Market.
Does anyone know if there's anything like...an ESP32 w/ touch display that goes in a 1-gang decora switch plate? I have a 3-gang box with CansLights, FanLight, and Fan. I have a IoT switch that would combine and make controllable the FanLight and Fan...I'm not sure what to do with the empty gang. On my other one I added an extra switch and hacked it into my fan controller to control my smart plugs...but that hasn't gone well. The low voltage on the switch seems to cut in and out randomly.
https://github.com/HASwitchPlate/HASPone it's even open source
You can buy kits or prebuilts too
Generally fans don't work well with smart switches or plugs unless specifically designed
I picked up the Konnected Garage Door Opener. I got it installed just fine, but because of my somewhat custom setup at home, it's not being discovered. Does anyone know if there is a way to manually enter an IP address of a device to "ask" HA to find it, as though it was discovered?
I can report my blinds are plenty heavy
So it works, but mine has beads, and string, to pull to the side. So once again I waste money buying on Ali. Can't decide if it's worth it.
@tulip scroll
OK. Wife approves. Works for me
@ornate echo its better then @tulip scroll solution, 😛
the weights taped on?
lol yea
anyone rocking a esphome with ld1115h mmWave? mine doesn't "clear" :/
clear is an keeps detecting presence?
@tulip scroll you using the solar part too or nah?
Any recommendations for smartlocks these days? I see that Ultraloq was recently kicked from the 'Works with HA' program..
I've only tried some really cheap kwikset hardware as an end user and haven't been a fan, is their zwave stuff any good?
they follow the spec and their hardware is all supported with zwave-js
it's what most of us suggest in #zwave-archived
Good enough, ty!
i assume you're in the us?
Canada but close enough to the border
I'm currently on first gen august hardware which was bluetooth only and have had countless problems with the wifi bridge, have already replace it once
i'd buy the kwikset 620 series
there's probably a way to use it with bluetooth proxies with home assistant
but i dont have any personal experience with bt locks
will need multiple locks in the new place vs just one currently so it's a little moot
plus it needs retirement
BT in general is kind of a bad word (to me) even tho it seems some decent stuff is available now
also you'll have to actually have a zwave mesh to use locks reliably
you cant just buy a zwave controller and locks and expect them to have good connectivity
so unless you want to buy some smart light switches or some other repeaters you might want to consider zigbee or wifi instead
https://github.com/FutureTense/keymaster this is a big benefit of zwave locks but it does have experimental zigbee2mqtt support
https://www.makeitwork-tech.com/best-smart-locks-for-home-assistant/ this guy has some decent videos/write-ups usually but ignore his suggestions for schlage/august zwave locks
oh god
I have a ST 2.0 hub kicking around somewhere that would probably do the trick that would go fairly close to the locks, switches are in the picture but I suspect the new place doesn't even have neutrals in the switch boxes so that's going to be A Thing
not only is he suggesting a schlage and an august lock but he's also using a piece of shit nortek zwave stick
maybe dont click that link...
n0
it's a pain in the ass but it's more stable than any of my conbees ever were lol
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-usb-700-series-z-wave-plus-s2-stick-zst10-700 just buy a $30 stick dude
The Smartest House
700 SERIES Z-WAVE PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS 700 Series Z-Wave radio USB stick: more range and fast communication compared to the 500 series Supports S2 security SmartStart ready You'll need a dedicated computer and home automation software with mobile interface to create a Z-Wave gateway hub using this stick Pair it with an
conbee are garbage too
ConBee are ... ok, just very sensitive to RF noise
if you want stable zigbee you buy cc2652p sticks (or efr32 if you like zha)
when I rebuild my zigbee network I'm intending on using a skyconnect
and zwave you buy 700 sticks
i wouldnt
buy that if you have money to burn or another cc2652p PoE coordinator
and for zwave stick to 700 series usb controller because 800 series is literally beta at this point
Matter is an evolving standard, where the lock has many more capabilities than what is shown and varies by partner. All partner apps allow full control of your smart lock.
At this time, only Samsung SmartThings allows for pincode management.
💀
so you didnt click the link i shared above huh?
keymaster supports full pincode management
i can let the poolboy or girlfriend or wife's boyfriend use single use codes
or codes that only work after 10pm
etc
whatever bullshit is written by marketing on the pages you visit isnt the truth yo
homeassistant is our savior
You linked a few! but the poe option for setting up a z-wave mesh is not quite where I am currently, may have to redo all the cat5 runs
but that was yale's statement on their matter based lock
no I'm just not sure which one you're referring to
https://github.com/FutureTense/keymaster this is a big benefit of zwave locks but it does have experimental zigbee2mqtt support
looking at the kwikset obsidian z-wave currently and
they've got some gigantic brains over there
looking at their other options because I don't like the look of the 620 :p
price is a little steep though
my issue with most kwikset hardware is that it looks like fisher price made a deadbolt
I mean, sure, but I don't want to have to look at cheap rubber buttons about to fall off haha
that isnt relevant but you're welcome to your opinion on it lol
i'm talking about how they abide by the zwave spec
Then put in a Schlage B60N and get a Kwikset Convert.
Is the Convert still in market? It appears to be discontinued on the website https://www.kwikset.com/products/detail/kwikset-convert-smart-lock-conversion-kit-with-z-wave-technology
or just the z-wave version is, I guess
I don't mind nerdy looking lock hardware on the exterior but I just don't want it to look DUMB nerdy looking
what I'm gathering though is that kwikset has the best z-wave implementation on the market in general
(and then you go keymaster>HA)
Well I have an integration to look into, I have a kwikset zwave lock on home assistant, right now I have some automations to make sure it stays locked and not left unlocked for long periods
Has anyone tried these for wall panels? Even runs on POE https://www.crutchfield.com/p_543XTS7/Russound-XTS7.html#customer-reviews-tab
Or knows of something similar?
POE is really attractive to me, rather than the weird and wonderful Chinese stuff that doesn't get updates, though have no idea how good updates are for this.
The levellock looks cool. We already have the one "smart" Yale lock. Use for pinpads, etc. I'd prefer to retrofit my other 5 deadbolts. Really just want them to be locked. No pin pad.
Hey does any one know any companies that sell PCB boards that can integrate multiple wired window and door sensors and door locks? similar to like an OmniLink panel
Konnected?
Nice. I still got the ugly weights but you can't see them unless youre looking for it I'm stil happy!!! 🙂
no not using it. I just charged the unit with the provided charger and then leave it as is. People say the battery lasts a long time so Im trusting that, also the solar thing is almost as ugly as my weights lol
Have you checked out https://www.pcbway.com/ ?
with the HA sky connect, do I simply have to add the USB device to my HA VM or how does it work?
That's a radio for #zigbee-archived and/or #thread-archived - what you do depends on what you want to use
For people in Australia, anyone used smart blinds or blind driver?
Hi, I feel its right place to ask, did any of you used fire tv cube 3? How does it feel like? (in contrast to paid yt videos) Can I use HDMI input to record non-hdcp content?
Same on solar, its right next to power and actually could leave plugged in. Thanks for motivating me to finish it.
Hi guys... what would be the low end NUC that you would use to run HA ?
Off course this depends on what will be running there... but using RPI4 capabilities as example, something that would deliver considerable better performance for things like plex or cameras streams savings...
i run ha, plex, tailscale, and other services on a zotac CI320 nano with Intel N2930 and 4gb of ram
i am not running haos, i am runing debian with casaos as web ui/container manager
(plex stream in progress thats why cpu usage is kinda high)
As a rough guide a P4 has a CPUBenchmark score of about 900, but storage is limited by the USB (3.0) bus.
an N100
Thanks, for the feedback 😉
Anyone here using Shelly H&T sensors? I just got one and it seems to be working, though the temp seems off. Wasn't sure if it was typical to have to set a temperature offset in the settings as a form of 'calibrating' it or something.
You can leave it unplugged if the cable is bothering you. I don't think leaving it plugged it makes it any stronger or whatever but up to you. At least it works out of the box haha
lol yea, i'll plug it in when it does. leave the cord there. Can you use something to tighten the cable before it gets there instead of weights? like see on my white cord how we have something to keep it tight
not sure if that would work
I've had a look, I'm not sure if there's any sort of pulleys that would help it. Dunno where I would buy for it
Hello,
Question for something which I cannot really find an clear answer for on Google.
We have blinds at home which can be controlled using following RF 'device' (https://www.rolluikonderdelen.nl/centronic-ii-timecontrol-tc445-ii-5-kanaals-handze.html)
I was wondering which device would be able to mimic this frequency (we have 6 separate blinds which can be individually controlled using device from link above).
If their is actually something out there, can I read the current frequency from 1 blind in some way to also program the device I am searching for?
Thanks
what you need is 868,3 MHz transciever but the problem is that support for 868,3 MHz is much smaller than 433 MHz
I noticed that, very difficult to find this at the moment.
I believe you could possibly #diy-archived something out of an esp board and a CC1101.
Not a hub, a USB or POE Zigbee coordinator. This is the list people usually refer people to for ZHA and z2m.
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
Also see https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#known-working-zigbee-radio-modules
From the HA documentation.
Can somone recomend good GU10 RGBW smart light bulbs that are compatible with Home Assistant?
Yeah it connects to your WiFi network and HA can control it via the local API.
Yeah Zigbee is a good platform for sensors and for smart lighting if you're trying to get into that.
Phillips Hue
that is cheaper than phillips hue
I have a couple of Gledopto's medium base RGBW bulbs and they're decent, looks like they make a GU10 bulb that's about half the price of Hue so you can try those.
Exactly
would you recomdend using Phillips Hue if i have to use GU10. I heard it can be a pain in the ass to use Phillips Hue with Home Assistant
Hue is basically top of the line as far as Zigbee bulbs go. It goes like Hue>Ikea Tradfri>everything else caveat emptor.
It can be a PITA to do stuff with the Hue hub sometimes, but they're just Zigbee so you can run them directly connected to HA like you can any other Zigbee device.
yes i herad in a video from "Make it work" that Hue lamps cant be put into pairing mode onece disconectet frome HA and that you have to use the Brige if that happens.
Nah you just need one of their wireless dimmer things. You put it close to the bulb and hold down a button or something.
Not as easy as flicking a light switch 3-5 times but not too much trouble.
I have 3 questions now.
- I can conect the bulbs from Hue to the Hue Brige and then conect the brige to HA right?
- Since the Hue Brige/Bulbs use zigbee can i use the Hue Brige to conect other Zigbee devices too?
- My parents have Hue lamps in theyr home and told me they use wifi. So whats up with that. Does Hue use both?
ah okay yes i think he said that too
- yes
- some but not all, I think most non-hue bulbs will work but aside from that it's specifically "friends of Hue" certified devices, which limits your options to a handful of switches iirc. If you want more than just bulbs you should probably get a proper Zigbee coordinator.
- Philips makes Hue and they make "WiFi smart" bulbs, plus the Hue hub uses WiFi to connect to your network, so your parents either don't have Hue bulbs or they do and they're referring to the hub and/or don't really know how everything works.
But yeah most people, especially those who didn't already have a Hue setup before getting into HA, just connect Hue bulbs directly to HA via a Zigbee coordinator.
Okay yeah I think that is also the thing I will do
I am currently working on my new bedroom and I wanted to do a little light and automatisation with HA because I i think I will find it fun to play with a more tecnical approach to home automation
Would you be okay if would write you down my plan that i laid down so far so that you could take a look at it?
I would really appreciate it if you could point me to some errors I might have made
Sure.
should i write it to you privately
You'd have more luck sharing a make and model, not a screenshot of some app
Nah put it somewhere in here so other people can see it and provide feedback too.
Sorry, its an Avatto Multi Remote Control (IR, Zigber and BL)
I suspect it expects to be the brains, not a device you control
I ask because the zigbee hub is paired with HA so if this expect to be the "brains" then the zigbee devices will not work...am I right?
I would say that probably won't integrate? It's also Tuya.
The description is misleading, it wants to be able to connect to a hub and send commands to that for Zigbee devices, it doesn't support Zigbee directly.
it can integrate the functions showing as supported when polling the device
run https://github.com/blakadder/tuya-uncover and see which dp's are picked up
acctualy i just realised i havent even finished planing it into the fullest yet
Is it possible and has anyone made their own smart power plug? Using ESP chips. If yes I would need some advice how to do it. Do I need a SSR?
you don't need it but you can use it
what do you want from it?
There's this: https://miboxer.com/product/rgbcct-remote-zigbee-3-0
but it's severely restrictive: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/FUT089Z.html
i need somthing i can stick to the wall
a remote sticking to the wall sadly doesn't look so good
Mi boxer has a zegbee tab with controlers on theyr shop but the website refuses to load on my pc
Yes like that
Just asking; is it possible to convert this to ZigBee?
how good are you with hardware design and coding zigbee firmware?
Okay so it is not possible for me
Why does it need to be Zigbee? As long whatever you buy integrates with HA you can use it to control your Zigbee devices.
all the wall panel chat above is making me ponder some sort of epaper/eink wall panel thing
but trying to source those always feels like an exercise in frustration
wildly off topic but I've had a project on the backburner for ages now where I want to do a calvin and hobbes comic showing one comic a day but nobody makes an eink screen in the right size/ratio
I have that remote, its absolutely perfect for my 5 year old
She can control the lights in her room, I really don't even care about getting notified in HA. it just works.
she has a ceiling light, a hue lamp, and under the bed RGB. Can control them all from there. I like it "because" its restrictive. Hard to mess up, :)
Any significant upgrade between 700 and 800? I’m in the market for a zwave and I want to make sure I don’t make a mistake
I suggest taking my advice lol
Zooz it is then
800 devices are fine just not the controller
Got it. Thanks
hey!
ive been having a mind breaking issue
i have no idea what it is...
My phone keeps disconnecting when adding a smart device to my 2.4
but when my phone does not disconnect, the device "fails to connect to the router"
The DHCP is fine. signal strength is ok, channel is free.
i tried numerous apps but all have the same behavior
i have a ddwrt router
any help is very appreciated!!!!!
Can anyone recommend home security camera that are hard wired & wifi connectivity? My electrician didn’t run PoE, just power 😑
Is this mi boxer control panel also able to control Philipps hue lights and WLed controlled light Strips?
And if yes how would that work?
@crisp zealot if you have the budget for a Yellow or Rpi4 I'd recommend an N100 based mini PC which in my case idles on around 8W
Im not familiar with an n100 based pc. What would make it a better choice than the yellow for example ?
it's an x86 PC that's at least 4 times as powerful
Well it's a "real PC" for one that can run basically any software. If you later want to run more software and virtualize or something you can't really do that with a yellow.
Or say you want to boot from a live iso to debug something. Not to mention that it's a bit niche and getting help for specoiifics is hard(er).
didn't wanna say that, some people get offended when saying that
apparently Rpi is also a PC for some
n100 based computer is apparently hard to come by in Denmark 😛
Take a look at the stats here to see how other people run HA: https://analytics.home-assistant.io/
There's always some bias with such systems, of course, as certain groups are more likely to disable analytics.
I would recommend not to look for a specific model or CPU but just for the type Mini PC/(U)SFF on a marketplace/shop/eBay/aliexpress and buy what's available/cheap.
If you're not familiar with the hardware you can compare benchmark scores to the N100 here: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+N100
https://www.refurbed.dk/p/lenovo-thinkcentre-m700-i6th/11760/ for example. (No idea how good a site that is.)
(They will use more power than the n100)
Don't buy a T model unless you have a good reason. They idle the same but have a limited ceiling (takes longer to go back to idle) which you can set up yourself if need be.
I guess they can make the difference between passive or not but other than that I see no good reason for this.
Just run the cable yourself it's easy. I have an NVR and 7 POE cameras and I did all that myself. WiFi isn't good for security cameras if you actually want them to be reliable.
'easy' 😉 as long as the actual cable run is easy. sometimes it's a pain in the ass. having it being a network cable is easy.
Yeah it probably depends on the house. I live in a 1950 single story house, so I ran the cables through the attic, and then just put a small brush plate at the edge of the ceiling and ran them down the wall through a raceway to the NVR.
I'm in a brick built flat. 😉 And all my floors are covered up with flooring which would be hard to get up
You don't have international shipping to denmark?
Man the easy cable run I did in my old house still required holes in sheet rock and a bunch of spackle in the corner
Luckily it was the only one needed
What is wrong with the T models ?
https://www.refurbed.dk/p/dell-optiplex-7040-micro-usff-in/
the T is clock speed limited
Read my message again?
im not really sure about the meaning sorry. But will it translate to some like the 6500 is faster ? and the T uses lower wattage ?
Then just trust me on this. But pretty much. They will use the same energy in idle but the non T can go higher/faster if needed
guys i am stuck right now i need some help
i need a wall controll panel to controlle some Hue RGB bulbs and a WLED controlled light strip
i have no idea witch of those i find on google (wich are alleready few) are actually compatible
Why not setup a generic tablet with home assistant (wallpanel or fully kiosk browser) and create a dashboard to control things there
Removes a lot of the compatibility problems with prebuilts and let's you customize to your use case
i was serching for something that is straight forward
if you know what i mean by that
Plug n play has it's benefits
you talkin about the tablet being plug n play right?
Oh nope, takes some setup but it'll be fully compatible and you can customize every bit of it to make it do what you want it to
Mine I have setup for just a general display, but wouldn't be hard to add a dashboard to hass with all the light controls you want and then have the tablet load that page by default
I just don't recommend fire tablets, they're dirt cheap but take more configuration to make them play nicely
more like a tablet i would prefer something smaler
is the sonoff NS Panel a good choice?
or do you know a cheaper alternative that is about the same?
Not if you want something simple to set up. If you want something small, dig out an old smart phone from a drawer and use that rather than a tablet.
well yeah it would probalby be simpler but it would also look really cheap to have a phone sticking to the wall
it uses Zigbee3.0 so it schould be able to controll my Hue Lamps right?
can i conect this peace of garbage to HA then?
seeing it's Tuya the answer is probably not
It looks like the screen is designed to control a connected light strip, not to signal everything over ZigBee, but it might have the ability to
I'm sus of a lot of smart things on AliExpress though
why aliexpress? amazon has more sus stuff
Well, both then, Amazon just gets a default sus for more than just smart stuff
if you mean the black square wall panel thingy it likely connects to the led controller with a custom RF protocol
the controller itself is supported in some Zigbee gateways
if yes then i could conect my Hue lamps to HA and use the feedback from this controler and react to it over HA to controll the lamps
even if you could you'd dislike it due to the latency involved
You'd also want to check forums first to see if it would work at all
See if someone else has gotten it and tested it out
Would changing my lamps from Philipps to another manufacturer solve my problem?
the problem of not liking the look of typical Zigbee remotes stuck on the wall?
hey!
ive been having a mind breaking issue
i have no idea what it is...
My phone keeps disconnecting when adding a smart device to my 2.4
but when my phone does not disconnect, the device "fails to connect to the router"
The DHCP is fine. signal strength is ok, channel is free.
i tried numerous apps but all have the same behavior
i have a ddwrt router
any help is very appreciated!!!!!
is that related to HA in some way?
not really sadly.. But i really have no idea where to ask
ok. This is the server for Home Assistant. I don't know where to direct you, but this certainly isn't it
Disable 5g completely
I found my missing pi4. Wish I had found it sooner when they were going for stupid money.
Put me in a good mood
Hello, A question about naming. I have 7 Kauf plugs in setup. 90% of the elements are named the same. i.e. Kauf Plug Button Config etc is there a proper or easy way to name each devices elements all at once with the device so that like "KaufCouch1 Button Config" passes through to rename all the individual elements? I mean there are 27 elements in each of thse LOL
renaming the device should do that
and it will ask you if you also want to rename the entities
So I am just discovering that all of my fan/lights in my house are wired with 12/2 instead of 12/3 which means smartifying them is really going to need to include a relay (or two) in the fan's junction box, right?
Interesting I just tried that, it asked, I affirmed and it didnt rename it all
Thank you @gloomy spoke 🙂
ok
Not if you make a cool mount for it.
hi folks. I'm considering using Shelly or Sonoff to smarten my old light switches and I wondering about a particular situation: if I remotely activate the switch can I turn it off via the switch?
Yes. Basically you wire the light to only be controlled by the shelly, and the switch is disconnected from the light and just becomes an input to the shelly to tell it to turn the load on or off.
Thank you. In this case, do I physically turn on the switch then turn it off?
For a shelly that is one option, or it can behave so that the light toggles on any toggle of the switch.
I assume Sonoff would have the same but I can't attest.
I did something dumb. I changed IP from auto to static, and used something wrong. Now it’s not working
is there any command I can run on the HAOS console?
nvm fixed it
Cross posting is generally frowned upon btw
Not released yet but there is this https://www.crowdsupply.com/slaesh-gmbh/smahoo
Okay but even if I were going to use a phone I still have a problem.
I need at least 2 Panels one at the entrance and one next to my bed and as far as i know I only have one old Xiaomi Redmi 4 phone left that works
Also I think that especially next to the bed something smaler like the NS Panel would be more comfortable
Yeah, could be worth the effort of setting up the NSPanel. It's not that bad, you've got to do a little firmware flashing and a little yaml-ing, but there are plenty of guides online.
I like button pads, rather than panels, but my action on them would be pretty limited by design.
yes im just unsure what approach to take.
I could Buy the NS Panel Pro and put an android version on it (or whatever he does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1Dqdz8yHDc&ab_channel=MarkWattTech)
or i could buy the NS Panel and flash it
The question is if i flsch it what firmware would you recomend i should put on this thing?
or better said witch UI should i install on it
nspanel pro
i thought of using a ns panel pro at the entrence because of the sensores it has and a normal NS Panel next to my bed
sure
if i were to do that would you recomend using the Bluprint by Blackymas or the Lovelace UI for the NS Panel?
whichever suits your need the best, they're both free
okay imma take a closer look at both of them
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004944375599.html
has someone tried this kind of temp sensor (the wifi version)? is there any way of makin g them work locally?
aliexpress.com
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
yes there is
i'm guessing they have the custom tuya chip? so you use openbeken on them?
they do use a custom tuya chip. i don't use openbeken on them
how do you use them?
Do i need to use WS2815 or can i use WS2812B light strips if i want to make an 4,5meter long LED Strip without having to do power injection?
60LED/meter
Higher voltage less power injection needed
doo i need power injection for a 4.5 meter LED strip?
thanks 👍
From time to time my ZigBee 3 stick loses connection, with home Assistant running in a virtual box virtual machine on windows 10...is this a known problem?
Any suggestion on A15 Edison Bulbs, smart?
GE Reveal HD bulbs are an improved, energy-saving LED that enhance the appearance of colors. Experience the difference with bolder colors and enhanced contrast vs. standard GE LED bulbs. GE Reveal bulbs filter out dulling yellow light to give you incredible color contrast PLUS whiter whites for e...
am I blind? I see Wiz has them, but not hue
The Home Depot
Get free shipping on qualified A15 Smart Light Bulbs products or Buy Online Pick Up in Store today in the Smart Home Department.
Does anyone here use Ubuntu Core + Ubuntu Frame / mir-kiosk to have a full screen browser window with their HA url for a display? I have this running on a Surface tablet with no issues and am working on a pi3 and touchscreen monitor for my wall… Are there any reasons you see not to use this setup?
Any way to reduce the range of ThirdReality motion sensor? It's mounted on the ceiling over my kitchen entry and being triggered by my cat on the floor. If it could only detect say 4 feet down instead of 7 that would be better. There's no suitable place to mount it horizontally.
can the ns panel be mounted and used horizontal when flashed with the Blueprint of Blackymas?
by horizontal i ment like this
Maybe someone was able to configure onboard rgb led in esphome for esp32-c3
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrltPpY
it's a pwm led
GPIO03 PWM 1
GPIO04 PWM 2
GPIO05 PWM 3
If I wanted to install a smart led light in my garage, what are my options if the following is not possible:
- Cannot insert shelly in wall
- Cannot use smart light bulb, but must use a lamp (like an led panel)
I've tried to find something suitable for an hour or so already and didn't have any success at all
I migrated to a home assistant yellow and migrated my zigbee radio to the yellow onboard zigbee radio. I still want to use my USB for zwave, but it keeps killing my zigbee whenever I reboot where I have to manually select the yellow onboard zigbee radio. The USB has both zigbee and zwave. How can I set it to automatically pick the yellow onboard zigbee?
#zigbee-archived can help with Zigbee
Can you replace switch with smart one?
How does your existing light work?
I can! But I haven't found a suitable smart light that suits a garage 🤔 any suggestions?
I don't have one yet tbh🤷
Any recommendations for energy monitoring plug. I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYGRLRS1 but they are not supported :/
Benefits of Matter smart devices: 1. Interoperability: Matter devices will be able to communicate with each other regardless of the brand or manufacturer, making it easier for consumers to build and expand their smart home ecosystems. 2. Enhanced functionality: Matter devices will offer advanced ...
What do you mean not supported? I've got a bunch of Kasa plugs
Obligatory "Sonoff S31 flashed with esphome" recommendation.
me too, but this one specifically is a nono https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tplink#unsupported-devices
OK. Mine are KP115(AU)
Great so you have every option in the world.
What do you do in your garage? Just store your car and miscellaneous junk in there or do you use it as a workspace or what?
I'd personally put in a fixture designed for direct wire T8 LED tubes and then put that on a smart switch.
Anyone have experience with Shelly relays? I've got one that's new but not showing up on WiFi or BT
They start off by broadcasting a hotspot that you need to join right?
They should but nothing is showing up. It's a Shelly 1 v3 on 120v, the jumper is removed.
I thought you always need the jumper installed, unless that's changed since I last looked at them
Removed for 120, then set in A or B position for 12v vs 24-60
Upon further investigation you are correct. The manual is just poorly designed
@tacit burrow if you dont want to flash a s31 yourself, https://cloudfree.shop/product/sonoff-s31-flashed-with-tasmota/ sells some products, and they donate some profits to open source projects
I'm AU plugs, bit more tricky to source
Are you in 120v or 230v region and do you have neutral wire in the junction box under the switch that you want to smartify ?
Also do you want it to be wifi, ZigBee or z-wave?
Just for the car.
What smart switch do you have in mind?
I'm on 230V here 😀
Idk about the wire, though.
Zigbee and WiFi are good options. I'd be willing to buy zwave hub if the lamp is nice, so I can play with zwave
The switch looks like this
You do have a neutral since there is outlet below it
Do you have a junction box above it?
Mh, possibly, there is a neutral, yes. But I'm not an electrician and must not interfere 😵💫 why do you ask?
There should be a junction above, yes. I'm currently baby sitting, so can't go downstairs 🙃
Can someone recommend a 3-phase mains watt/amp/voltage meter with some interface, like i2c/spi/etc ?
You forgot to mention the country - won't do people much good to recommend you a 220V device when you need 110V
you can get modbus energy meter
Sorry, yeah, 220AC, 3 phases 120 degrees apart, but I guess 3 1-phase once would work as well
what is your budget and how many amps should meter support?
some of my breakers are rated for 16A, others for 25A, so I guess 25A, budget is dunno, it's not like I really need this, I just want to play around with it, so on the side of cheap.
actually, maybe 10-15amp / phase would be enough, I doubt I have anything that draws such a huge current
there are 2 types
63a - wired with power in/power out
and above 63a - wired with current transformer clamps and voltage sense wires
yeah, I really don't need above 63a
if you want something easy to work with home assistant you can get shelly 3em
if you want something to hook up to microcontroler or something else diy https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003463408051.html
Yeah, my power consumption is limited by 15kW on all 3 phases combined, which is around 63 amps at that voltage. @rich venture So I should get DDSU666 80A - this? Says 80A, but on the photo it says 0.25-0.5(80)A meaning it needs current sensing coil?
no that one doesent require ct
one that says "DTSU666-CT 1.5(6)A" needs additional ct
hmm, what's the operating temperature on those? Shelly 3em on ali says 0-40, which doesn't fit the range of temperatures here.
this is datasheet
-40 to 75c
great, thanks!
what will you hook up to that energy meter?
microcontroller or a pc
something with esp32 I think
I also have some old ARM boards with lots of gpios that can run linux
i would also pick up usb to rs485 modbus adapter for initial testing
yeah, those are cheap, should probably do that, and maybe if I go arm board route I can keep it
there is some docs here on github https://github.com/elfabriceu/DTSU666-Modbus
modbus adresses, data types etc
Great, thanks again!
@rich venture okay, so if I get this I should be good: https://ae04.alicdn.com/kf/Sb4fb91365eb142648022e156a81cdebfj.jpg_640x640.jpg right?
yup looks good
@rich venture https://aliexpress.ru/item/4001292465841.html this good for the converter?
i bought this kind
yep, saw them and bought 1 as well, really cheap
What do I use for RS485 wire? If the distance is short, do I need twisted pair?
you can just use ethernet cable
in my solar install they used cat6 cable
got it
What's recommended for 433MHz receivers these days? I got recommended a Sonoff RF Bridge, but it looks like the one I got (White V2) isn't supported by Tasmota
Should I just return this one and get the Black V2?
The manuals really do annoying get "riiight" up to the line of being decent but miss by a bit.. At least the shelly devices are really good. We have 150 devices in our exhibition at work and we've had only 1-2 failures a year. The website sometimes have updated manuals compared to what comes in the box too which helps :)
Looking for a machine to run barebones HAOS on. Has anyone done the research on buying a used SFF/Mini PC/NUC verses a used laptop of similar specs? Is there a price difference one way or another?
Trying to see if I should get a laptop instead since it's got a built in UPS plus keyboard/mouse/screen when needed.
If you want the built in ups get a second hand laptop
Though, is a UPS even needed? If everything else in my home goes down too anyways?
A controlled shutdown is always nice
Are there any other pros or cons to using a laptop over a mini pc?
the battery will not last. you'll get like 10 minutes eventually. and eventually it'll probably start being a spicy pillow
Anyone have suggestions for sirens? Bought a Zigbee one that doesn't work, wifi or Zigbee is fine but I want native support and a known working product. I'm in the EU, and most of what I am finding either isn't available, is part of another ecosystem or doesn't work 😦
See the recent chatter in #general-archived
Ah, I'll bring it up there
10 minutes would probably be plenty for a controlled shutdown. A spicy pillow wouldn't be good though.
I guess a laptop has less expandability options, and worse heat dissipation (though not an issue with HA).
The spicy pillow thing isn't too much of an issue. just keep an occasional eye on the device.
Sure.
if laptop supports limiting charge percentage then it would eliminate/delay spicy pillow problem
Would HAOS support that though?
Found this laptop: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195875504986
Comparable in price to this SFF PC: https://www.ebay.com/itm/204401076200
that is up to bios/hardware to support
Makes sense
Delay only, not eliminate
Is there a different term for a smart switch which doesn't have to be part of an existing circuit? i.e. it's just a button to push to send an event to HA.
A generic bluetooth/zigbee/zwave switch? I'd think it would just be called zigbee switch, scene controller, etc
"scene controller" eh? I'll search for that. Think I want to find one to mount on the wall where the light switch used to be - where people expect a switch to be.
The amusing thing is the video from them about installing it in a 120v application didn't mention the jumper at all.
I use an Aqara Zigbee "mini switch" for that kind of thing. Single tap toggles the laundry room light, long press toggles the attic light.
I have spare Gpd win max 2021 1tb 16gb RAM Intel Core i7-1195g7 mini laptop. I would like to run ha, transmission, Plex, next cloud on it.
But as I understood better is to sell it and buy mini PC because of spicy pillow effect?
No use it
You can remove the battery I’d you feel that serious about the pillow
Don’t run all that on haos tho.. use something like proxmox
Yes that's exactly what I thought. I was just thinking to run some VM solution under Windows. It better format and install proxmox?
So format c: and install proxmox
I don't have much experience with proxmox. Only with hyper-v. But I guess there are lots of guides online 🙂
Do that
Thank you!
Hi there. I have been building my smarthome on home assisstant for the last 5 years now. Started with a raspi 3b then a 4 and after that switched to an intel i5 and now I'm running a nuc i7. The problem I have at the moment is that the i7 nuc starts to become slow. I have 7 cameras with motion and person detection running frigate which uses a ton of resources even with a google coral. Now to come to the point I wonder if using an Intel core i9 will make things better. Does home assistant os supports all modern CPU's to be utilized 100% or is it better to get lesser cores with higher clockspeeds
do you have all the hardware acceleration working properly with frigate?
Yes. The cpu is running between 25 and 65% load depending on how much movement there is in the camera feeds. But I see some slowdowns in loading pages and addons when the nuc runs to 65% load. So I wonder if ha uses the full cores or that a part of it can't be used
are you running haos? or in an environment such as unraid/proxmox?
reason I'm asking is, you could pin cores if using unraid/proxmox
and, i believe motion detection is on the CPU, believe Coral only helps with the object detection
i guess you're using the low res stream for detection?
I have 8 cameras that use the main stream so high res. The low resolution streams are so low that the detection isn't very well on distance
I installed Hass os directly on an m2 and inserted it in a nuc so it's not running in a virtual machine
icic.. do the cameras have onboard detection abilities?
i have a feeling the motion detection is what is causing your performance challenge...
What you might want to think about is, instead of upgrading everything, have a second machine. have frigate on dedicated hardware.
Yeah that was another option I was thinking about. Maybe run frigate outside home assistant. I could even go back to a raspi 4 when frigate is removed from ha. Without it ha runs at 2% cpu load. My cameras do have own detection but my imou cameras aren't very well integradable in ha. I have one reolink camera at the moment and that one has all the features exposed to ha. I wish I knew that earlier...
Does the Raspberrypi 4 model B have an SD or micro SD slot?
I don't believe any Pi has had a full sized SD card slot
Yes you are right i was just confused because someone in a video showed a SD card when explaing how to set up home assistant on a Pi
It may be that they showed a microSD card in an adapter
Or that they were just very confused
Can i upgrade the firmware of Aqara devices from HA? Specifically the lumi.airmonitor.acn01.
Using ZHA
#zigbee-archived can answer that
Does anyone know of a multi button remote that one could connect to home assistant ? I would prefer WiFi but can work with whatever. I don’t care the price of the device and I’m in Canada but can order from wherever.
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
personally, I find all the good multi button remotes are zigbee or zwave
but that will be expensive
It’s a solution for an old fellow that needs this kind of thing. I’m not too worried about the price. It’s not just for my home project
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#s=remote lists a stack of Zigbee options
I've used Zigbee and Zwave ones, both work great, but I end up just using my phone instead
I would absolutely build something nice on a tablet for him but the actual use of a touch screen is the issue there
I've used, and still use, Z-Wave and Zigbee remotes
yeah, then I'd go zigbee because it's cheaper than zwave and youg et the same functionality
Annoyingly they no longer make the Z-Wave version of https://nodon.fr/en/nodon/enocean-soft-remote/
Does anyone know of a smart diffuser that can send notifications when the water tank is empty? I know I could just add a leak sensor, but I'm hoping to find an all in one solution if possible
Lots of them have an auto shut-off when the tank runs dry, so I could maybe notify when it turns off outside of the automation schedule, but I think I'll get a ton of false positive from people manually turning it on/off...
I personally just plopped a strain gauge under the 'foot' of my chonk of a humidifier and I trigger on the weight dropping below a threshold. That way I avoid modifying the product at all and just have a platform with the sensor in it for the thing to sit on. Worked great while I used it.
That definitely sounds preferable to the leak sensor if I can't find an AIO solution, thanks!!
That plus a smart plug and you can automate it turning on and off and monitoring water levels
I really wouldn't go Wi-Fi, as those are said to be very slow (they have to connect to the network evertime you want to send a command).
I use https://www.shelly.cloud/en/products/shop/shelly-blu-button1 but I really can't vouch for the distance since I have a really small apartment. 😅
Shelly Cloud
great input on the wifi having to reconnect. I figured it would work that way given that its a battery device. Thanks!
Yeah. I saw it in a video comparing remotes. If I find it again I'll share here.
In this video I review ten different smart buttons and remotes that work with #HomeAssistant using Zigbee Home Automation (ZHA). I tested each #smartbutton and compare them, so you can decide which one is right for your #smarthome. Thanks for watching! I hope this review helps you out when buying these devices!
-- Products in this video --
Sono...
RPi1 originally had full sized SDCards 😅
I still have a few in my drawer too, ran one until... 2018 I think when I finally replaced that server
until the 1B+ came along
Did that also bring along a ram upgrade too?
I vaguely recall the ram getting bumped pretty quick after the first edition
I remember one model would crash if you took a picture of it with the flash on.
"The Raspberry Pi Foundation started to look into the issue, it found that the kind of light emitted by a camera flash could cause the processor's core voltage to drop, turning the Pi 2 off"
I'm pretty sure it did, now I have to go check
yes 256mb to 512mb
Early adopters lost on that one, but they weren't expensive or hard to get at that point
That reminds me that I have an Amazon dash button I can integrate into hass
those still work?
Lol, not with, they discontinued the service years ago, but there's an unofficial add-on that'll provide support for them though
well that's what I meant really
I would have bought some had I realized that they didn't need the cloud to work
https://github.com/danimtb/dasshio no updates in a while but the system seems simple enough
I kinda wish I bought some zigbee/zwave buttons or similar because they are handy AF
At most it would need updates to work with newer home assistant versions
Yeah I need some buttons. Make it easier for wife to do things.
get a cube to play with
i built a bunch of keypads with esphome
they're wired, not portable, but super convinient
https://ring.com/products/alarm-keypad-v2 these can be used fully local with a zwave mesh i'd like a couple
well i think the v2 does i'd have to confirm
Are you using the esphome alarm module?
I'm using that one. Integrates very well with Alarmo and a blueprint.
which blueprint?
and what kind of battery life/drain are you seeing?
can you share the exposed entities from zwave-js?
https://github.com/ImSorryButWho/HomeAssistantNotes/blob/main/RingKeypadV2.md
This is a good documentation for integrating Keypad v1 and v2. There is a blueprint for each keypad, which syncs it to the HACS integration Alarmo (should also work with the stock alarm control panel).
Battery life... enormous
do you have it mounted outside?
226 sensor entities, 166 configuration entities, 22 diagnostics entities (most of them are Ring system specific and mostly useless for us)
No. It is an indoor device
do you have fire/police/medical buttons doing anything?>
ESPHome
Instructions for setting up generic Alarm Control Panels in ESPHome.
Most useful is the exposed motion sensor of the keypad. There tons of configuration options, which can be done with Z-Wave parameter values (languages, volumes, playing chimes and so on)
motion sensor of the keypad?
Yes.
It is basically a PIR and retrigger interval of about 2 seconds
impressive
You can use this for a standalone system so it still functions if alarmo/ha is dead.
Police button activates in my install the alarm, medical sends a text message to family members and fire doesn't do anything useful (yet)
It triggers the alarm system like a panic button (even if it is disarmed) and activates a siren
Make it shut all the power off to everything.
using direct association to a zwave siren so it works even if hass is down?
But you can make the buttons do everything. You can open and close blinds with them, if you like 😆
yea
No
if hass is down i have bigger problems lol
I guess you could make it set the sirens off in the house if you see a fire and they system hasn't noticed it yet.
make it a toggle so if false alarm it will also turn them off 😄
you cant turn them off when actually triggered by smoke or w/e
there's a minimum 30 seconds or 2 mins or something i think
i'd have to look at the manual
maybe not
It's more for like power outages you can just have one tiny esp32 sipping power on a battery and still have a security system going.
all my sensors are / will be zigbee like door/window though
with no hass they arent very useful
Buy a zigbee module for the esp32
lol
Technically you would just need a ESP32-C6 Wi-Fi 6 & BLE 5 & Thread/Zigbee SoC
no, though i am using the matrix keypad in esphome, they're not for security, they're for triggering various actions in home assistant
i have a button for home and away mode, activating different sets of automations to run, i have a button for christmas lights to turn them on or off, for a while, i had buttons for activating the vaccuum table and laser smart plug on my little ortur laser i had for a while
i also have some keypads that are just the lights and fan in the bedroom, so they can be turned on/off from the nightstand
eufyCam 2C Pro 2-Cam Kit, Wireless Home Security System with 2K Resolution, 180-Day Battery Life, HomeKit Compatibility, IP67, Night Vision, and No Monthly Fee.
eufyCam is designed from the ground up to offer wireless freedom without compromising your security. With free local storage# and ZERO monthly fees, eufyCam is ready to go right out o...
Are these good with Home Assistant? They're on sale nearly 50% off right now
I've never bought security cams before but am looking to grab some
From what I've read it seems the HACS integration might be a hassle to get working and there are some other weird quirks too...can anyone vouch for these?
If you want security cameras my first rec is always gonna be to go hardwired.
And why is that? I don't really want to have to go through the effort of wiring or having to pay someone to wire em in...
*I mean that in a genuinely curious way
It's easy. I'm up to 7 POE cameras and I installed all that myself.
Security and reliability.
WiFi can drop out, WiFi is subject to interference, batteries can die/external power can fail. Video quality can be variable and sometimes degenerate entirely or have the whole camera be unavailable.
There are also exploits people can use to disable WiFi security cameras but let's be real your average creeper or burglar probably isn't going to do that. It's still a consideration though.
POE cameras just work. Consistently. Pretty much all the time. When you need to check the live stream or go back and view recordings, it's there and the quality is consistent.
Basically if you're going to do cameras you might as well go all in for something that's reliable and will continue to be reliable.
also if you're wanting cameras that integrate reliability with HA check here whether you do POE or decide to go for WiFi.
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/#camera
Okay that's actually great information and a good perspective. I will take that into consideration! Do POE cameras tend to cost more? You need NVRs and stuff right?
Brands like Reolink I know are expensive but generally super reliable right?
Honestly overall, it comes out cheaper or about the same. The cameras are usually cheaper than their WiFi counterparts from companies like eufy, Arlo, Nest, whoever, but then there is the cost of the NVR whether you build or buy one.
Reolink and Amcrest are kind of at the affordable end when it comes to reliable consumer grade/light commercial hardware.
And then you've got to run cables but cat5e is relatively cheap.
Low voltage wiring can also be run by anyone, if you wanted to install wifi cameras, they'd need to be battery powered or have high voltage wiring run to them, and that would require a master electrician
the wiring decisions are:
cat5e or cat6 (cat5e will do gigabit just fine. cat 6 tends to be less flexible)
solid or stranded. solid is generally cheaper, but you have to be a little more careful with bending it. you can buy a box of the stuff for not a huge amount. like £50.
UTP or FTP/STP. go with UTP. (unshielded twisted pair. Shielded is more of a pain to work with as things have to support it, or you might end up with a big antenna.)
I would suggest getting a punchdown tool, and for the cable runs, terminate the cables in boxes rather than crimping an rj45 on them. you'll still need to do that for the cable you plug into the camera (if you're feeding that through a small hole) but then it's a lot easier to replace damaged ends. because it's a short cable rather than one strung through your home.
How to Punch Down a Cat5/E/Cat6 Keystone Jack
In this video, we will explain the fastest, yet a comprehensive step-by-step guideline about how you can punch down your Cat5e/Cat6 keystone jack like a professional. For this purpose, you will require a few tools and info regarding the color coding of your wires that you will match with those on the...
(cat 6 is less flexible due to having a pair separator in the middle of it. X shaped bit of plastic.
Anyone using the Bosch TRV II radiator valves ?
Actually the conductors are slightly larger too 23awg for cat6, 24awg for cat5e
And most cat6 has good shielding
So they all contribute to the stiffness, including the spline Steve mentioned.
https://community.fs.com/blog/should-we-use-cat6-or-cat6a-for-10gbase-t.html heh. FS saying you shouldn't use 6a at home 😉 Do they know hobbyists?
Knowledge
Cat6, Cat6a and Cat7 all support 10G copper networks though they are featured with different specifications and performance. Can Cat6 really do 10Gb? Should I pick Cat6/Cat6a/Cat7 for 10GBASE-T? Read this article to get the comparison between Cat6 vs Cat6a and Cat7 vs Cat6a and the buying guide.
Lol I've installed all of those rated cables in data centers and I absolutely hate 6A
6A will only slightly beat 6 in a length test and imho not worth the hassle
The absolutely best choice for cable at home is the kind you can abscond with from work without getting in trouble ;p
I actually did pull most of my house with cable from 'scrap' boxes
I have the opportunity to move my HAOS box from a 3770k, 8gb RAM to a Ryzen 2600 16gb RAM and a 1660 Super. The 3770k is no slouch by any means and runs pretty well, however does anyone see a benefit to running a GPU? I already have a USB Coral for Frigate, but I do wonder if my video feeds would load a little better with a GPU.
Frigate can, if it gets access to the GPU, use that for decoding and more... but I don't know if HAOS exposes that - #cameras-archived would know
If you are looking for an RPI...
RPI4, 4GB is available here: https://www.pishop.us/product/raspberry-pi-4-model-b-4gb/
RPI4, 8GB is available here (1,000+ in stock!!): https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/raspberry-pi/RASPBERRY-PI-4-MODEL-B-8G/12159401
Hey does any one knows this devices? Seems to be new in the game, and apartments. In Brazil are being sell with those already installed on the wall https://www.findernet.com/pt/brasil/civil-e-terciario-listing/yesly-listing/
Finder
If those were made on iOS they can be ‘lightened’
let me know if you get the flowers
Setup pxe boot
Its fantastic with pis, I have at least 4 running this way now
I still have sd cards in some of them to use as local swap/cache
the only pi left booting off sd is doing that also fine for years but the sd card used in it is read only at this point and I don't care as this pi only does this one thing even in read-only
Hi, I would like to indicate when doorbell ring. I´ve system from Urmet. Is existing some easy way (aqara leak, door sensor), how to identify ring? Schema:
Hey, does anyone use a heat pump from STIEBEL ELTRON? They support holiday mode that can be configured on the pump itself or via its gateway (ISG). But the modbus documentation doesn't mention this functionality, so it's not obvious how it can be set from Home Assistant. Any advice on how it can be done is very much appreciated. I tried to look at the ISG web page, but it seems to communicate with the gateway via its own JSON protocol.
would there be a performance boost when using a m.2 ssd instead of an sata ssd in a dell optiplex for HA?
Hey does anyone use a heat pump from
is there a led that lights up when ringing?
or anything other than sound
Does anyone here have experience with robotic lawn mowers? Struggling to decide on what to get for my 450m2 lawn which has a "hill" of around 35 degrees
ZigBee/Matter angst
switched from a synology VM to a Dell Optiplex 3050 with 1TB SSD, 12GB Ram and Core i3-6100T.
Rebooting HA on the VM: 3:21min
Rebooting HA on the Dell: 1:06min
🚀
and its pulling 11W from the wall
what the best way to have fun with a led stip ? esp32 + wled ?
Pretty much, as long as you limit the current you don't even need a power supply other than USB power
I have tried this, and loved it. Be sure to only get 5V LED strips and an ample power supply if you're going to get fancy. You can do higher voltage strips but be sure to supply enough power to them.
WLED is a great software that has several dozen effects and full customization of the strip(s).
I have a few wled strips that I've setup, it becomes quite the rabbit hole as you make bigger and bigger strips and effects
Hey Guys. New to HASS, i got a Raspberry Pi4 a ESP32 and MAX RS485. I got a heat recovery system that supports modbus, where do i start? Cant seem to find the right guide.
That'd be with the modbus #integrations-archived
ty
Sorry if this is a stupid question. I've found this page: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/A1Z.html#options. The options seem to not be passible through mqtt, so how would I update energy_calibration ? Is the only way to update the yaml inside zigbee2mqtt ?
Integrate your Nous A1Z via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
That's a question for #zigbee-archived - assuming you're using Zigbee2MQTT
I am. Thanks
Have this thermostat https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-TH4110D1007-PRO-5-2-Programmable-Thermostat-1-Heat-1-Cool-4083000-p Attached is a picture of the wiring. I want to upgrade it to a thermostat I can control from HA. What are my upgrade options? Does the black wire mean I have a "C-Wire"? How can I tell if it's a low-voltage system?
SupplyHouse.com
Shop SupplyHouse.com for programmable Honeywell thermostats, including the T Series models at low prices with fast shipping.
Based on the model of that thermostat and the presence of a c wire, I would say that you having a 24v system is a pretty safe bet
Would this work with HA? https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Home-RTH8800WF2022-Day-Programmable-Touchscreen/dp/B09X69FSMB
The T5 Smart Thermostat allows you to take comfort knowing your home temperature will always be just how you like it. It's easy to install and use and conveniently fits in with your lifestyle. The T5 thermostat is ENERGY STAR certified and you can program it based on your schedule, or let it adap...
possibly, not certain
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations#climate are all the native climate integrations
would depend on a honeywell integration to call to their API
Nest and Ecobee are usually the safe options in this department
More towards ecobee in terms of integration into HA I think
from a quick glance I would say that honeywell thermostat should work - it is actually manufactured by Resideo and there is a distinct integration for them https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/totalconnect/
the honeywell US integration has similar naming though https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/honeywell/
Not sure with the honeywell pro 4000.
I recently updated my heating only to a nest which works well in HA.
Based on your wiring, you should be able to easily change over your existing tstat.
As a reference to what you have, looks straight forward.
W - Heat
Y - Cooling
G - Fan
R - Power
C - Common
ecobee has a pretty good documentation of what each wire means and is mostly universal https://support.ecobee.com/s/articles/What-do-my-thermostat-s-wire-labels-mean
Do any of you have multi zone setups?
For hvac? Yes