#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 31 of 1
willow, apparently, can make the esp32-s3-box do wakeword.
Getting a HP Pro desk 600 G3 Mini. Comes with 16gb RAM. I plan on installing via Proxmox so I can run InfluxDB on its own VM/container and the same with Adguard, and possibly other things down the road. Should I upgrade the RAM to 32gb or is 16gb plenty?
16GB is plenty
you can always add more later if you need to
of course, if it's a trivial uplift in cost, then go for it. But I suspect it's going to be like 15-20%
16 is definitely plenty. I have 16 in my Thinkcentre and I don't think I've seen it use more than ~8-9 and that's with HA running and owncloud and smb both doing large transfers.
You must have a lot of hungry addons
I don't. I'm migrating away from a failing RPi4B. It will only stay up for about 3 hours then stops working. It also will not boot unless I unplug the two USB dongles
what's your powersupply?
What uses the 9GB then? That's quite a lot
@uncut badger meanwell LRS-50-5. I had an original RPi PSU and thought that was the issue so I made a case for the meanwell and still the same issue
@golden thorn I don't know that's why I'm asking... I would imagine after a while setting 1gb here 4gb there etc it adds up quick and that 16gb would be gone
huh. just checking to make sure it's not a power draw thing. But if that's a 10 amp supply, then it won't be that.
I'm sorry your ping/reply confused me. I was referring to FinnMacCool as they said they use 9GB
My guess is to give HA at least 8gb since that's what's it's had from the RPi
That's my machine not emmyshain's, and HA isn't sucking all that ram, I was making the system do as many things as I could at once for testing reasons.
@uncut badger yeah it's flustered me for sure, and over the last new days it's gotten worse. It runs off a USB sata drive because I was worried about SD card failure
The problem is that there's a limit of what it can pull, and supply to the USB ports, even if you give a Pi a 100A supply it can't use it
It's in an Argon One V2 case with the fan so it has active and passive cooling
@winged knoll one USB is the HDD, then it's got a cat5e for network, a USB zooz 800LR ZWave dongle, and the sky connect USB dongle
That's a lot.
I'm wondering if the Argon case is the culprit. I'm not much worried at this point. The mini PC is already on its way. The RPi has worked great but now that my smart home and everything else is getting bigger and more complex I think it's outgrown the RPi
You should be using a powered USB hub for all that.
@devout parrot you're probably right. But like I said, I'm switching to that mini PC which should relieve that problem
Unless you think I should have one even with the mini pc
Although the USB SSD will no longer be part of the equation. It'll have a 500gb m.2 drive
Should be fine.
Both these dongles should be on usb extenders btw
@cold moon they are!
Great
Did a lot of reading on them before the sky connect dropped. I ended up going with Z-wave though but I do have a couple ZigBee devices I'm playing with so it stays for now
Also 800 series zwave controllers are practically beta so something to watch out for
I've honestly had zero issues so far. Works great with my Zooz 800 light switches, 700 window sensors, and my two Kwikset door locks
Sorry if I'm posting in the wrong channel. Looking for recommendation on Synology server/hardware to host both HA and NVR for 4 cams in retirement home 1000 miles from where I live now. Keeping my HA on odroid intact at current home. I have a spare odroid. Would I be better off hosting new HA on that and keep NVR separate? I have a Synology NAS now which I use for a number of things, but not NVR. Thanks for the thoughts.
Anyone have a reco for RF replicating? I'm looking for something to smartify some dumb ceiling fans that can't have a dedicated switch, or older RGB lighting without replacing the controller.
Seems like https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM-Mini3-Universal-Controller-Compatible/dp/B01FK2SDOC might be a good go to?
Wonder how it handles diff types of controls. Fan vs TV vs lights...
Bond bridge is suggested over the broadlink ones
Lemme take a gander.
You can search here for reasoning
I don’t personally have one just see that’s the common suggestion as better
Add Wifi to Ceiling Fan
RIght in the title, they coming at me. Significantly more expensive, I'll find some history to see why. Thanks dude.
There’s also diy options with esphome if you like to tinker
433mhz, ir transceiver, whatever
I made one 433 for like $10
433 mhz esphome yaml example: https://dpaste.org/Z0qus images of esp32 wiring using nodemcu wroom32: https://imgur.com/a/PdPiTcy https://github.com/dbuezas/esphome-cc1101/tree/main but that's more #diy-archived territory
I'm looking for suggestions on a HA compatible device to control a 12v light source (3D printer LED light bar). From what I've found the Shelly 1 appears that it can do it, but wondering if anyone knows of a better (or smaller) device that can do it?
can't get much smaller than Shelly 1
potentially this https://templates.blakadder.com/sinilink_XY-WFMS.html
I use wled with d1 minis and 5v strips for my printers
what printer do you have?
if you dont need ha integration you can potentially just use gpio on the controll board
Same end result
it's an ender3s1, mainly looking for a way to turn it (led light bar) on at night when it's needed (for Obico monitoring) and off during the day when not needed, without me needing to flip a switch
consider getting octoprint as octoprint has ha support
I've got Klipper and Mainsail already setup and integrated with HA
what hardware is klipper running on?
RPi4 2GB
you could probably run it via mosfet from ras pi gpio
Probably but what’s the fun in that
https://github.com/cp2004/OctoPrint-WLED I use this with op but I think klipper has some stuff built in
I also think his s1 changed from 2040 extrusions on the bar across the top of the printer which I used to slide 3d printed channels in for the led strips and diffusers
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2981368 this specifically
LED Strip holder Versions for LED Strips + Endcaps.
Choose your version.
V1 , for LED strips to stick on.
V2, for LED strips for lateral insertion.
V3, for LED strips for lateral insertion,with LED diffuser insert.
Print your chosen profile version ( V1,V2 or V3) twice for Ender 3 (maybe use a brim) , or adjust the length of the profile for your...
top bar appears to be a 3 channel 2020
in pictures online the s1 does not have v slots in the extrusions which "3 channel 2020" pictures seem to have but maybe my quick google was wrong
the front of the bar doesn't have a slot, but the other 3 sides (top, bottom, and rear) all have slots
cool
i still think voron is the way to go unless you are willing to go full retard with the bambu labs chinese walled garden
but ratrig vcore hypercube blah blah are all more or less a voron these days
i'm way too lazy but i've been tempted to change my ender 5 plus into a core xy
i have a little farm setup just for fun
i admittedly havent even setup any automations in hass for my printers just a dash lol
the triple z axis sold me, full auto leveling
I’m not that kind of 3d printer hobbyist chasing those goals
Once I got my bearings (about a month in) the Ender 3 has been printing nearly non-stop and I've got a long list of things to print and make
Hi all , I give up with the Swann NVR and its cameras. Just cant seem to get them onto HA. Gonna change to Hikvision, anyone recommend a good Hikvision NVR that works with HA?
Searching to track energy usage
400amp breaker is the main
Emporia is too low
250 only
Maybe sense ?
Oh you rich rich
Well I pay energy as a rich guy
Hi all! Wild question, because I can't seem to find anything that suits what I'm looking for:
I am looking to make the heating system in my home a bit smarter, and I would like to go to a system where every room has it’s own thermostat, which just communicates with HA and/or node-red, which in turns has the automations to control the different parts of the heatings system (which is actually really complex with 2 different heating systems, 4 water pumps, 2 mixing valves and a storage vessel. So I can’t hook it straight to a thermostat).
Does anyone has any idea if there is something on the market that has the most possible of the following characteristics:
- Wall mounted
- 230V (EU)
- Display (preferably e-ink)
- Temperature sensor (for the room)
- Humidity sensor (very optional)
- CO2 sensor (very optional)
- Actual buttons (for temperature + and -, and preferably also for on/off)
- 2-way communication with HA/node-red (I want to be able to change the setpoint from both the wall mount thermostat and from HA, and this should be reflected on the display)
In my head I see something in the style of the Sonoff wall mounted panels or something, but I don’t think they have room temperature sensors. Having something open-source and flashable would be nice, but if it works good enough as-is, that is perfectly fine.
This is a long shot, and I can find a few that might work, but I am wondering if other people have done something similar, and if there are options I haven’t found yet.
Thanks in advance!
how are 2 heating systems configured, is one a backup to other?
That is actually what the storage vessel is for. One is a wood stove, which creates (besides a nice looking fire in the house) very hot water, around 80ºC, which is stored in a 500L vessel. The other one is a heat pump, which creates only 40-55ºC water, preferably when it's not too cold outside. The "radiators" are actually convectors with fans attached to them, so they don't need more then 40ºC to heat the home. As long as there is heat in the vessel, mixing valves are regulating the temperature that flows to the convectors, if the vessel is too cold, the heat pump starts and keeps the water flowing to the convectors at 40ºC.
I'm looking for some solution on smart locks. I live in Ireland and my door lock is a multi point where I need to lift up the handle to lock the door, is this even possible with a smart lock?
Can you share a poorly drawn mspaint recreation of the lock mechanism?
what thermostat do you currently have and what would be a goal to achieve with home assistant
do you just want to turn it on/off remotely or do you want compleate automation with detailed view into the system
I'm not sure exactly of the inner mechanism, but it works like this: https://www.anglian-building.co.uk/operating-cleaning-and-maintenance-guide-2/opening-and-closing-doors/
Anglian Building Products
That’s not ms paint at all
basically if you want to lock it, you need first to pull up the handle so the multi point lock engages and only then you can lock it with the key, if you try to use the key without lifting up it won't lock it
The Nuki is made for our kind of doors
I have one like that
I saw that one, but it says that to lock it I need to pull up myself 😆
yeah, I can imagine, I just wanted to confirm
oh, what are the non-cheap solutions? I'm curious now
https://www.ultion-lock.co.uk/ultion-bolt/ is an addition that may help
Very new though, I've not seen any reviews
let me see
I've not seen any other way around the way our modern doors/locks work
you're from Scotland, right? are these type of locks really more secure?? I come from Spain that there's a fever of people occupying houses (or so the want to sell in the news) and I've never seen these type of locks there or anyone trying to sell them
Yup, and ... mostly yes
Simply having multiple points is the win, whether that's a multi-point lock, or multiple locks/bolts
It's about spreading out force over a wider area, to make it harder to force open
let me see if I can find a picture of what I've seen my whole life in Spain
Traditional UK doors are just a single "Yale" lock, maybe with an additional bolt or secondary lock
Vamos a instalar una cerradura de tres puntos de cierre en nuestra puerta de la entrada, más segura que la cerradura simple que tenemos.
Materiales y herramientas: https://hgr.mn/2PaXULH
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lol... that show brought me to my childhood... I used to watch this with my dad 😆
That's a neat design
basically it has 3, let's say, blocks, at the middle, top and bottom, but they open just with the key, no need of handle at all
(and close too)
I mean... in theory the Nuki style would work, though whether it would fit the door or not... 
Expensive experiment
I don't see the price of the bolt actually
do you have it with bolt too or just lift up the handle to lock it?
yeah, I thought the opposite when I saw the door of my house 🙈
you have to turn it counterclockwise to be able to unlock
so basically you need to do it manually, right?
my main purpose of installing one is to lock automatically more than to unlock (which obviously it's a very good addition)
except the part that most euro cylinders can be broken into in bout 10 seconds
Manchester crime, Lock snapping awareness video on how burglars easy burgle homes in and around Manchester, This video was made as result of 5 star alarms 217 Manchester Rd Oldham attending burgled homes where locks have been snapped our wireless alarm systems are £365 fully fitted & guaranteed tel 0161 682 9999
I just looked at one of my newer doors and it does have hooks near the top and bottom in addition to the middle bit
yes, that's the only difference I see with the ones I have compared to the Spanish version, spanish version only goes to the side frame and the ones I have go also to the top
I have to turn the thumbscrew counterclockwise to be able to push the handle down to open the door.
aah I thought you meant that you have a smart one installed on one of this! XD
No, this one is manual. I have several other doors with smartlocks
yeah, that's the way I have them too, I'll keep an eye on the Ultion bolt Tinkerer mentioned as that could do the job... but I'd like to install this in 4 doors.... so might not be an option at all
but all are just deadbolts
oh so wait a minute... you have the multi point lock but don't need to lift up the handle to lock it?
no, I need to lift that one to lock it
the thumbscrew just prevents me from rotating it down to unlock it
yep, that one is the same thing as the key but with a fancier looking
I got a few of those too when I changed my cilynders
so then how do you get a good use of smart locks with these type of locks? I thought one of the main points was to auto-lock
I ignore that door. It even uses a different key from the rest
not even sure where the key is 🙂
in other words, I'm of no help whatsoever
hahaha
well thanks anyway! 🙂
@winged knoll , in case you're interested, I've spoken with Ultion and the say they'll release Bolt in August and will be available at local sellers, I'll keep an eye on it
but yeah... I see in the local seller they provided, the smart lock itself is already 300€ so it'll be a fortune 🙈
the cylinders I got are meant to be anti drill and anti snap... is that just a gimmick then?
it does help
I would love full control. Right now the heatpump controller controls everything. This has just 1 wireless portable thermostat you take with you, and then we have to manually open the valves on each convector.
for valves you can get smart trv, the thing to look out is that the coupling matches your existing ones
prices for those range from 25$ tuya ones to 55$ Aqara Thermostat E1
Can anyone recommend hardware for controlling a ceiling fan or a ceiling fan itself that would be smart-er than controlling my 315MHz fan via an RM4 now?
Currently the light is a toggle but I would prefer to call a service explicitly asking for light to be on or off, same for the fan itself, there's no way to know state the fan or light is currently in.
I actually wonder if there's commands supported by the reciever that just aren't present on my remote, but I would have no idea how to find them.
sonoff ifan04 has been suggested lately
otherwise there are zwave or zigbee fan controllers with fan speeds or just smart switches that do on/off and can handle fan inrush current (around 3amps usually)
The valves are not the problem, I have relay operated valves that can get controlled by a shelly. It's the room thermostats where I'm searching.
You just need something that can read the temperature of the room and then HA can tell the Shelly relay(s) to open/close the valves as needed?
Exactly! (I know I could use a Sonoff panel, and probably some other classic thermostats, but I'm mostly trying to check on what everybody else would be using for this)
basically everything that has relays 😄
that might be a job for a handful of Zigbee temperature sensors and the Generic Thermostat integration.
Anyone have a cheap solution to control a 2 port USB switcher via HA that's not using an IR blaster? I have a webcam I want to switch between two Macs via HA.
Has anyone ever used a POE splitter and use a POE switch to power the every presence one
not sure if it's the right channel, sorry if OT
What's your experience with Blink outdoor cameras? now that Prime day is on, I was thinking to get some of them
They are no good
They're not generally real time. you can do short real time through their app. through ha, you can trigger them to take a snapshot, then a while later update the image HA has from it.
(Which is why they can get the battery life they can)
Looks like there are deals or upcoming deals on a lot of more decent surveillance cams and accessories though, like Amcrest and Reolink.
I'm looking for a sensor to measure water temperature from a raft which is roughly 50m away from the server in my cabin. I got the router there but wifi might be shaky at that range. I use a Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 stick as well. I there any good wired or wireless solutions?
LoRa would be my suggestion - or the new long range Z-Wave
Thanks, got any devices you can recommend?
I don't, no
If I go the wifi route, I got ESP8266 and DS18B20, did anyone try running these from battery? Maybe a powerbank could work and then a waterproof case
question.. as an example.. an Aqare mini switch.. On the product page it says "Requires AQARA hub", is that true even if i'm using HA with a zigbee stick?
No. All of Aqaras packagings are stating that
i thought so.. thanks guys
any recomendations for a decive that can both play tts and recive requests. baiscly tring to use it like an alexa or google home but custom through HA
https://zigbee.blakadder.com/ if you want to see what people have tested.
Receive is difficult. right now you're basically talking about 'hit a button before speaking.'
#voice-assistants-archived can help with some of that, but see all the recent chat about Wyoming etc
what is the difference between HA and ZHA
ZHA is an integraton in HA
ZHA is home assistant's built in zigbee integration.
HA: Home Assistant
ZHA: Zigbee Home Automation, HA's native Zigbee integration
Zigbee2MQTT is a Zigbee stack that's separate from HA, but integrates with it
deconz works, but it's a lot more opaque than the other two
with SONOFF S31s, will they tell me the energy usage in HA over zigbee, or do they have to connect through wifi?
They're WiFi devices, not Zigbee
the S31's are wifi only
There are different models of S31. There's the S31 and S31 Lite, those are WiFi models, and the S31 Lite ZB, which is Zigbee.
I don't like them being on wifi.
The Lite ZB doesn't do power monitoring.
The standard S31 WiFi model is like $7US and can be flashed with esphome or Tasmota if you want fully local+power monitoring.
Yea they are the best
Thanks.
One thing I do like about the ifan is that it also supports RF remote so you have a backup control method if your WiFi is down.
If my Wi-Fi is down I need an adult not a fan
Agreed, WiFi is one of the last things to go down in my house is the WiFi.
Anyway, I ordered two of the iFAN04-L's, they're a bit cheaper because it's Prime Day.
Any suggestion for a rain measure device that is not too expensive and supports HA? I don't want to buy the netatmo device for 100€ 🤔😵💫
I found this technoline device for 60€, but Integration in HA is a bit more advanced (Technoline MA10040 https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09H736W64)
are ecobee's NOT zigbee? I had looked at them in the past and maybe I'm misremembering.
Wi-Fi thermostats are Wi-Fi lol
Yes. It’s a “Cable Bus” System. Very reliable. As we build a new house this was the only option for me 🙂 You need specific KNX components but it’s an open industry standard. You get everything from Switches to Smokedetectors. It’s not cheap but as said it’s reliable, exist since over 30 years, has a wide support from all major electrical manuf...
i built one two days ago. basically whats in this link ^
except i used one of these. its the same thing, just a slightly different shape. its the rain gauge part of a weater station, cost me ~20 bucks. comes with some electronics for 433mhz stuff, which i tossed and replaced with a door/window contact.
the nice thing about this one is that it runs on batteries, so i was very easily able to re-use the battery compartment, wire it up to the window sensor. it now runs on 2xAA instead of 2xAAA, should last plenty
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3974479 you can also do something like this
Remixed from Pb84's design to allow screw-fixed wall mounting.
I also added some tree supports to help printing.
Uses the MH-RD rain sensor such as this:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32711871234.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.449e6577VOnUzr&algo_pvid=122083a5-0b4d-44e2-9477-c74b04a92acc&algo_expid=122083a5-0b4d-44e2-9477-c74b04a92acc-0&btsid=c...
that ones more for detecting IF there is rain, not measuring how much, right?
correct but still a neat project worth sharing
the green is the original electronics. the upper two boards were stuck into and soldered to the lower green PCB, which is basically just the battery holder. easy enough to desolder. second picture is it soldered up to the window sensor, third picture is it all stuffed into the housing.
means even if i need to swap batteries, i dont need to take it all apart for that 🙂
neat
Has anyone looked into using Microbot/Switchbot/Fingerbot as a relay? Seems battery efficient and the latest version is even on Zigbee.
Does anyone happen to know if it's possible to use ANY Android tablet for a HA dashboard? For example, a touchscreen digital photo frame with it's own (very limited and customized) version of Android running. Is it possible to load another OS on any tablet using an SD card?
Note: I don't have the tablet yet, so I cannot explore settings to see what the options are, but I have to imagine they will be very limited
man.. the world of home automation.. just keep stumbling on stuff
anyone use shelly relays to install in their switches? they work solid?
i prefer smart switches myself
whats your goto?
for zwave zooz light switches or dimmers, and for zigbee inovelli blues (assuming you are in the us)
https://dpaste.org/WRgK0 here's a pros and cons of smart switches vs dimmers vs smart bulbs vs dumb bulbs if you want to read over my justification for each
yea, i agree with all that.. that's where i'm at.. just looking at what i have vs what i need vs what i want
can get a 4 pack of shelly's for $44..
yep
they're a cheaper option i just dont like the idea of stuffing smart shit in a wall with a dumb switch, even if ultimately the end result is the same
however i also enjoy multi tap / hold / etc options on my smart switches
and i also like how they always look the same, not flipped up/down
yea i currently dont use any of those options on mine so may be a solid choice
and i like the controllable color LED
?
so you can do things like change the color based on alarm armed/disarmed
led on smart switches like zooz or inovelli
inovelli's design is way cooler imo
color of the bulbs? or on the switches themsleves
the switch itself
oooh thats badass
it has r/g/b/white color option that you can automate with in home assistant
so wife or girlfriend or wife's boyfriend can see if alarm is armed or w/e you decide to use it for
lmfao
unfortunately if youre in germany, the options for actual smart switches are limited
at least if you want them to integrate with your existing switch covers and not look shite
ya i said in us above
in eu you guys get your pick of random chinese designed AND manufactured smart switches with mains voltage at 230v or w/e.. that's a hard no from me dawg
like aqara and xaiomi
are you scared of 230v?
everyone should be scared of 230 volts @ 15amp or more dude
you know.. because of the way that it can kill you
further, i absolutely am against trusting not just a chinese manufactured device, but one also designed by them and sold under brands like xaiomi and aqara at 230V
yes but houses here have whole house gfci compared to just bathroom and sometimes kitchen in us
you'll pop before the breaker does
400v 
That looks very complicated for my limited understanding 😵💫🙈
humm, was looking for a zigbee one. I hate cloud.
They have fully local control via HomeKit protocol over Wi-Fi to hass
No cloud needed at all
ooo
I have and like ecobee a lot
meaning, it works with home automation server?
Highly recommend just don’t buy their sensors
home assistant*
Yes
unfortunately it seems like I have to get the one with the sensors.
Just use your own zigbee or zwave room sensors
It’s ok if you have to buy one with a couple but don’t buy more
Better ones exist using zigbee or zwave
For cheaper
I'm just unsure about wiring
Then look it up
like, I don't shy away from electronics projects, but since I'm a renter I am a bit more apprehensive.
I think I "need" the 2-wire
With the Amazon Day sale has anyone seen any good hardware sales?
flume2 water meter
$100 less
El monitor de agua inteligente Flume 2 está cambiando la forma en que consumimos agua al darte la capacidad de gestionar, monitorear y conservar el recurso más precioso del mundo. Toma el control de tu uso de agua y trae datos peculiares a la barbacoa del patio trasero con monitoreo del uso de ag...
Did u find an answer to this? I'm looking to do the same. I need to know when my kids go in and out with a beep too
Anyone recommend any indoor motion sensors?
I have some Sonoff S20s with espurna but for whatever reason they won't connect to my Ubiquiti AC-Pro anymore. Wondering if there's other recommended firmware or if anyone else has had issues? My Sonoff "Basics" seem fine, though
Showing unavailable for me :/
From USA it worked , i just purchased one
Maybe UK not available
Amazon thermostat has a 100% rebate today. Is there an integration for this or would you recommend/not recommend this thermostat?
It looks like the only integration is through Alexa https://community.home-assistant.io/t/amazon-thermostat-integration/421286/3
With Alexa Media Player, you can send custom commands to your Alexa devices. https://github.com/custom-components/alexa_media_player/wiki#run-custom-command Using a “Number” helper to select a temp to set, you can send a command to Alexa Media Player that will set the temp on the Amazon Smart Thermostat. service: media_player.play_media data:...
any other interesting HA like things on prime sales?
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Flexible-Density-Uniform-Decoration/dp/B0BNBDSKVS 24v ws2811 fcob led strips are discounted 20%
Is your advice to skip it/not buy it?
So what else do i need for these?
24v psu and 24v controller, ideally with an esp32 in it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmIcTIAlI74 video on the strips on question
It's a new year and a new type of addressable LED strip has become available which I can only describe as "Addressable Neon". It's a 24v COB Addressable LED strip with 720LEDs/m and addressable zones of 5cm each. I think this is going to be the perfect addressable LED strip for a lot of projects because of ease of use and just how it looks!
Jum...
run all that on a microserver, leave your nas to store your files?
I have SimpliSafe and I like it. Easy to install, has options for monitoring plans so I get that home insurance discount, and the HA integration is solid, the people who develop that integration are really good especially given that SimpliSafe is fairly hostile towards any kind of third party integration of their product.
Hue motion sensors or Aqara P1.
Hey im installing my inovelli blues and have a quick question. My current switch is wired like this: https://assets.lutron.com/a/documents/368-4493_page_5.pdf
Would the tagged wire be the live/line?
You need to test with the power on to confirm then turn power off and confirm it’s off then do the work
Got a no contact voltage tester. When flipping the dump switch, the votage switches from the traveler wire and the non tagged wire.
Which would leave me to believe that the tagged wire is in fact live. However, there never any voltage coming through the tagged wire... is that how it is supposed to be? That doesnt seem right
you're positive that the box you're poking in is the one nearest the breaker?
If you're in the "lutron" box with a non-contact tester, I wouldn't have thought that flipping the dumb switch at the end of the run would have any effect
not 100% sure I suppose. I'm putting the inovellis in where the dimmers used to be.
also, it's a double gang, and the other switch is working as expected (the inovelli and its dumb switch, in 3 way mode), and its line wire is always live.
It occurs to me that I may be dumb and there may be only the 1 live wire into the box... in which case im still not sure what the flagged wire is
Ordered an S31 and the USB bridge you recommended, and after a little messing around to get the test hooks to sit right, I got it flashed and set this up. It's pretty cool ngl.
My Shelly 2.5 have started to turn off after a few seconds.It has worked for about two years.
I've completely disconnected it from HA so it's something with the device.
Firmware is up to date and the device has been rebooted. Anyone had the same issue? Is it replacement time?
Any decent zigbee led strips on Amazon sale? Maybe @cold moon
you probably mean LED controllers
I’m dumb. Probably need both right?
it's not dumb, its just lack of information
I have a hue strip somewhere but I can’t find it
you need a power supply, led controller and a led strip. you can usually buy a kit that has all those but those kits are not great
Looks like deals in au aren’t impulse-worthy
And link he posted above is us and $$$ shipping
Ya. Was just seeing if there was any don’t-miss deals, seems not. That’s ok, save my $ 🙂
Hello
I MUST install smart switches for my blinds (for thermal regulation thingies in my country)
But I don't know what to buy
Zigbee, wifi, smart switches, smart relay switches behind dumb switches ... ?
This is my current dumb switches : https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/192269258900635648/1128607156980162580/IMG_20230712_103527.jpg
Also my normal dumb switches are "schneider eletric odace", they have a "wiser" subbrand that is connected but it doesn't seem to be well integrated in HA, so idk if it's a great idea to choose this, even if it would blend well with the other switches
So any recommendations ?
I'd personally go with a module behind the switch
Okay
Wifi or zigbee ?
You were sensible enough to say my country, recognising that there's more than one country, and electrical standard, on this planet
That's more than most
But... you still forgot to say which 😉
oh yeah
Most WiFi stuff is cloud based, not local. Do you want your control to depend on somebody's cloud service? That and you having working Internet
That and there's more than just the EU electrical standard for 230V (or so)
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/ has a lot of options, I'd avoid anything that's Tuya, but the #zigbee-archived channel can provide feedback on specific devices
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#v=Ubisys are expensive, but supposedly excellent quality.
Personally I'd look at the Xiaomi and Sonoff stuff
For France you also have Nodon and Legrand options
I've used Nodon's Z-Wave stuff, was very happy
Okay thanks for the info, i'll check that out
Oh wow i'm not putting 100eur in a module like that x) I hope there are cheaper options still good
I need 8 of them, it's gonna be way too expensive with those
The Xiaomi (T1) and Sonoff are cheaper and mostly good
Yeah i'll take a look thanks
Sonoff doesn't seem to make two channels relays
Hello, Du coup z2m a été mis a jour et l’intégration est beaucoup plus simple, il suffit d’un external converter ou l’on peut régler le temps en secondes de la montée/descente du store! Voici le lien du github. Ils n’ont pas mis à jour la version corrigée du code, il suffit d’ajouter tzLocal.lift_duration dans tozigbee : const fz = require('z...
Apparently this integrates well in HA nowadays, so I think i'll go for that
@keen light I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
what do you mean ZHA event over blueprints? they're not mutually exclusive
Sorry If I sound a bit confusing.
But from what I know some zigbee devices do not show any entity data in the logs. which requires a blueprint to trigger the features of the entity.
[The best example I can give is the Ikea tradfri shortcut button]
this one does not show any ZHA events in the device log on the device page in ZHA
They don't require blueprints
Blueprints can't do magic - they're just automations (or scripts) somebody else wrote
if you get a switch switch aka one with relays they will be switch entities in HA (mostly :D)
button /= switch
Thank you for verifying, then I will check it out in the following months. [current sale period has no good coupons anymore, since any savings is a benefit, if it means the difference between getting 5 or 7 switches for the same price].
Lots of different approaches in the community to this, but thought I'd ask if anyone has personal experience... I have 2 Somfy blinds that came with my dormers with remotes. I am assuming they are RF 868 remotes. How would you integrate with HA? RF-Wifi adapter, or the Somfy connectivity kit? (or is there a 3rd option I don't know of?)
The RM4.. Would I need one for each of my RF ceiling fan/lights or does one work for all in the house?
Just one.
oh noice.. thanks mate
do they control both lights and fan or just?
but crap.. one issue i'll have is i lost my remotes lol
is anyone familir with the Argon ONE raspberry pi case? And have any idea why it won't power on automatically when connected to the power supply? There's a power button, but also a pin setting to bypass that and power on automatically when power is supplied to the system, but it's just not working.
I have it, and it works fine, as long as you've set the jumper right
I don't think anything was needed in settings as far as I remember, it just turns on when the power comes on. Maybe reset the jumper, restart and then reset it again?
any chance you have a POE hat on?
The RM4 can control whatever your remotes would be set up to control.
If you lost your remotes, you may need to buy a cheap remote in the right frequency to use to program your RM4. Typically setting up one of those remotes is just a matter of messing around with the dip switches until you find the right combination.
No POE hat, and have reset the jumper and rebooted etc. no matter what it behaves like the jumper is just in the default position (ie power button must be pressed either way)
Can’t find anyone else with this problem. May be faulty.
Any stronger alternatives to a switchbot? I got one to make my dishwasher smart, but apparantly it doesnt have enough force (even though the button feels lighter than a lightswitch to me, which the bot CAN push down hard enough..
the dumber the dishwasher is the easier is to make it smart
with mine i can just input settigs on push buttons and dial then when i want it to start up i can just turn on smart plug
Yeah mine is about the same, just a dial for settings. But turning it on/off with the smart plug has 2 quirks:
-
It will make a loud noise when turning on the plug, which sounds a bit scary from a longevity standpoint
-
It reminds its state when the power is disconnected. So if it is done washing and you turn it off with the plug it will just remain in it's done state when turned off. so then you need to turn the plug on, turn the dishwasher off, turn it on again and turn off the plug to set it up again
Especially the second part doesnt really seem "automation" to me.
maybe switchbot doesent have enough travel to push the button compleatly
does anyone have a good brand or device to measure whether a hose is running or not? pool people left the hose on causing a $500 bill so we want something that we can monitor by phone to know if the hose is running
Is there anything against the Sonoff dual r3 relais? I want to upgrade my shutter motors, I tried the shelly 2pm and the sonoff dual r3 out, the sonoff is running cooler, more reliable and it is way cheaper. I consider to install it to all my 10 shutter motors.
Not hose specific, but you can install a water meter for your house. They can learn from your water usage and send notifications if it detects a leak. Would probably work for a running hose too. https://www.homewizard.com/watermeter/
This is one option. But depending on your region or type of water meter in your house it might not work.
I’d like to get a robot vacuum, but I’m not sure which one to get. I want it to not require an internet connection (I’m ok if I loose a feature or two bc of this) but I’d also like one that has an auto-empty dock. Anyone have any recommendations?
Any vacuum that has an official integration marked as local
A vacuum without an empty station is silly in 2023 anyway
Roborock capable of being flashed with open valetudo open source fw is what I’d suggest
Dreame can also be flashed with Valetudo as can other brands on their list
Thank you, I was not aware of this project!
I’ve heard good things I don’t have any personal experience with it
How do I find vacuums that are officially marked as local? I’m having lots of trouble finding any
You look for Local polling class of devices
There's also a larger list when you include custom components
oh neat, my vacuum is supported now
what can I do to monitor a 400AMP main energy panel
https://iotawatt.com/ i've heard good things about this
Powerful yet Simple and Inexpensive Electric Power Monitor. Residential and Commercial. Open Hardware/Software.
it's also FOSS
seems nice but out of stock till september
Got my Aqara U100 lock today and set it up and was surprised that the homekit integration found the lock automatically. I only have 1 Bluetooth proxy in my house and it's not even close to the lock but it still picked it up and works super fast to control it
Probably still going to use the matter integration since I already have an M2 hub but just thought that was cool
homekit works over wifi not bt
I was pretty sure it's Bluetooth especially since the lock doesn't even have wifi
damn, that would have been an excellent solution
Just read everything about it
He's not making them anymore, right?
oh shit
yup
design is open hardware tho, so you can still build one 🙂
He just didn't want to be a bookkeeper + shipper. Can't argue with that
if you have 400a supply you probably have bunch of subpanels that are conventional in size, you could monitor those and just add up the numbers
Alterco has released the Shelly Pro 3EM-400 (at least in Europe)
5 subpanels in fact
What can I use to monitor
Wanted to monitor main panel because seemed a bit cheaper than doing for every sub panel
Each sub panel has 175 amp -125 amp breaker
Interesting!
Only thing my setup is monophasic that's for three phase I think it won't work ? (Not electrician)
The product page states: "The device can be configured to measure three separate circuits of a mono-phase electrical system." - but in doubt, their customer support can help
Whoops, I was gone for a bit, but it really seems to be the force, the arm doesnt go all the way as it does when pushing air
Is there a thread battery-powered color light? Something I can stick to a wall to show if laundry is running or not
braces for random thread and matter hardware requests
random discovery, my fireplace doesn't have power. So there were no good battery options for my gas fireplace. Turns out the fireplace company actually came up iwth a decent solution, https://usfireplacestore.com/products/skytech-8001-tx-transmitter-for-smart-home-compatible-voice-on-off-remote-control-kit
Skytech has been a recognized leader in fireplace remote systems for more than 20 years and is synonymous with bold innovations, rock-solid reliability, and unrivaled customer support. That’s why, when the hearth industry needs something done right the first time, they look no further than the experts at Skytech. Descr
because its essentially a dry switch, any smart plug works. given the encrypted rf, misc other options and headache. I truly don't hate their solution
100 bucks to not deal with batteries in the fireplace, etc worth it. I got plenty of other projects. Plus its our only heat when power goes, so having the original remote and knowing nothing changed is nice
what are people using for bluetooth proxy kits (I know esp32 setup) but cases/antenna/psu? Looking for a more "finished" product if possible
GL-S10
thank you
if i lose access to the wifi that i use to set up a tasmota device, how can i access its ip menu again?
Device recovery procedures
I would like to use Phillips Hue light in my room and led strips from an other firm
Can somone recomend an remote cotrolll for controlling lights compatible with home assistant so i can controll both lights from different firms?
How are you doing zigbee?
what are you controlling the hue bulb with?
what would you recomend im new to this?
A HueBrige or a Rasperrypie with home assistant on ot idk really im trying to get into this
Thats what i want to find out. Can i controll HUE bulbs with an remote or panel of an other brand as long as they are both conecctet with Home Assistant?
If the remote can interface with Home Assistant then yeah.
Where can i se those? If i go under Integrations > Remotes on theyr homepage i only find TV remotes
The way I would do this, is having a home assistant server with a usb stick zigbee controller (like a sky connect, or one of the others), pair the bulb with home assistant using that, and the LED strip (however that pairs. I'm assuming it does.) then I'd probably get a zigbee dimmer (like the hue one. which is handy if you need to reset hue bulbe) and pair that with home assistant. and then use automations to control both the bulb and the strip.
but that's pretty much on/off/ dim up/dim down
fancier controls would be via my phone
or get a controller with more buttons (like one of the loratap ones) and have some predefined scenes.
There are quite a few remotes built for the purpose of controlling rgbcw lights and they can be bound to the light directly if they're on the same Zigbee network
so I'm probably asking something that's been asked a hundred times, but no matter how good my google fu is, I'm not quite finding the answer. I'm looking to set up a led strip recessed light along my hallway and I want it to be standard dimmer switch dimmable (not remote, not whatever is supplied by the manu), I wouldn't mind a remote if the lights have adjustable color temp, but regardless, they need to at least be warm to warm white. Anyone have reccos on strips like that? I would love to do a smart strip, but I want it switch functional heaven forbid any of those smarts go down 🙂
You're looking for a LED controller then, once you find it you choose the LED strip. Smart strips still turn off when you cut their power
well, my dimmer switch will likely be the "smart" portion of the whole equation (got a good deal, have plenty), so I just need an led strip compatible with a dimmer and would hope all would be good 🙂
That probably won't happen 🙂
Your dimmer is AC so you need to find an AC powered LED strip
aaand now I know the google fu term I was missing, lol 😄 thank you
building a shadow gap light that can be both dumb and smart is a pain lol
loooooks like something like https://www.amazon.com/Enersystec-Dimmable-Dimmer-Waterproof-Outdoor/dp/B07PMJVZTL/ might be what I'm looking for
Product Characters: If you are looking for a slim waterproof LED strip light and power up by 120V AC, this rope light is a good solution for you, Innovated product on the market, do not need external transformer/adapter/LED driver, The strip light has been put in a slim plastic tube for waterproo...
IF your dimmer works with those lights 🙂
is gonna be this guy, so Imma hope (and test, clearly lol)
https://www.leviton.com/en/products/d26hd-1bw
Leviton Decora Smart Wi-Fi (2nd Gen) 600W Universal LED/Incandescent Dimmer. Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant, Siri, No Hub Required.
Yep that'll probably work
🫶 appreciate the assist 😄
down side of working with a blank slate of a house, I have so many cool ideas that now I have to learn the ins and outs of implementation 🤣
and 90% of people here wishes they were in your shoes
You wanted #diy-archived
thanks. I will delete my message here 🙂
Just got the 700 today and plugged it into my HA dedicated laptop.. Have the Z-Wave JS addon installed and running.. What do I do next? There a good guide anywhere? Remember I have most everything in SmartThings right now.. Thanks!
#zwave-archived can help with Z-Wave stuff
Aren't there a few websites that have a database of things that are known to work with HA? I've been looking for it here on the discord but can't seem to find it.
Depends on how it's connected to HA
Start by looking at the integrations list in the docs
Zigbee device, so the integrations list doesn't help super much.
I could ask in zigbee, I know, but honestly I don't care HOW it connects, zigbee is just easiest fo rme
Yeah that was the one, thanks
There's no way to answer that question in general
Yep, I understand, but your answer was perfect 🙂 Thanks again, I found exactly what I was looking for. (I have to build my own dang blinds because I have trapezoidal windows and I'm not paying freaking $4500 for custom blinds/shades and I wanted a motorized driver that'd work with HA out of the box, found tons of options at that site.)
Just in case someone else has this problem and search for it here. I solved it by re-running the calibration.
Hello All, I am using Martin Jerry Tasmota light switches. I see there is an LED but it does not come on. I would like the led to be blue when off and red when on. Can anyone give me some advice on how to do this? Thanks
I am warming up to the idea of switching my wall light switches to Tasmota switches. If my network/HA goes down for whatever reason, if the light switch has a relay it should in theory toggle the light on and off still right?
mostly yes
I guess its just a case that if the light was toggled via software to be off, then the switch is mostly useless anyways
ugh think im getting my lines crossed - lots to think about as some light bulbs themselves will be smart, whilst others will be dumb
The great thing with Tasmota is that you can adapt it to any situation. Even have it control smart bulbs unless wifi goes out, then it can simply cut power to it
Its the physically toggling the switch with a smart bulb that gets me scratching my head. The relay would just turn the power off to the bulb no?
which to me means id have to turn the switch back on to then have the ability control the bulb
Anyone know the differences between shelly relay switches? And what are some other brand alternatives used in the community?
Has anyone got an am43 blinds drive. I bought one off of AliExpress but I think my blinds are too heavy to pull them up. It works great pulling the blinds down. But when it goes to pull it up he motor isn't strong up to spin it. Is there any solution I can do to ease the weight off of the motor and make it lighter so that it's able to drive the blinds?
I have a Miboxer remote
It uses Lightlink, so it operates completely independent of home assistant. at least my version does. My daughter can control her RGB lights with it. if HA goes down, internet, etc it doens't matter. so only negative is nothing gets reported in HA. my remote anyway. But for my daughter changing colors its great
I have one sitting by my blinds for the last 2 months
waiting for me
@tawny viper did you have any issues with operating your blinds. Im tried the motor of different blinds in my house that are smaller and it works but for my blinds i guess they are just too heavy
Is there anyway to relieve the tension on the left side that way the blinds will be easier to pull?
oh i mean its literally been sitting in the box and I havent hooked it up
right next to my blinds for 2 months
ahh i see
my wife is out of town, so its on my todo list this weekend
my blinds are pretty heavy, i can let you know
that would be great.
ping me if you didn't hear. 2 little kids ADHD, and my shipment of inovelli Reds came in, 🙂
but i do plan to do the exact install this weekend
Recentl started with HomeAssistant using some old hardware.
I'm now planning to migrate from RPi 3B to a virtual machine on a DSM923+. I have both running but want to run a benchmark before trying the migration. I found a lot of threads talking about benchmarks, but none worked for me - i assume they are for older versions or different build types.
What are the benchmark commands for RPi and for Synology VMM? Both are running Home Assistant 2023.7.1
Do something meaningful for you, and time it. Maybe it’s making a backup. Rebooting. Power usage. Web response time. Ymmv
Looks like the r1600 is 2-3 times faster
But things like amount of ram, type of disk, and network, will all make a difference
Looks like BroadLink RM4 is the recommended IR blaster (I want to control my AC). And in the room I do have outlets on the wall facing the AC unit as well as below it - so there is direct line-of-sight. But I'd like to just stick something into the outlet and have it there sticking out of the wall and not dangle stuff on cables, on the floor, etc. Is there a way to somehow set up the RM4 or maybe some other IR blaster that way?
there are plugs with remote controllers intended exactly for AC's
Compatible with HA?
they're Tuya so "it depends"
Can you tell me the name so I can look it up?
Also alternatives if you can.
do you accept any type of plug or do you have a specific electrical standard in your country?
I guess any plug that fits an EU socket.
Ooh! I see there's ones that also have a temp/hygro sensors. If I could find one that I could just stick into an outlet, that would be awesome!
Keep in mind that those may well provide higher temperature readings than in reality
Mains powered devices generate heat, which if they have a temperature sensor is likely to give you a value that doesn't match reality any more
that is why they build them with external sensors on a cable
Well I guess I could live with a single wire dangling along the wall...
Are there any of those favorited by the HA community?
nooooooo
😛
Still better than having some can dangling on a wire and taking up space on the floor.
What are the most popular temperature sensors people use?
I'm quite satisfied with this one. But I haven't used it with HA so maybe constantly talking to it will drain it.
I'm pretty annoyed that they changed the battery from AAA to CR though. I love being able to recharge them.
I use Xiaomi Aqara (Zigbee) and battery life is a year or two
For ones that can take a rechargeable battery the Develco "mini" takes two AA, but it doesn't have humidity
HA doesn't "talk to" those AFAIK. They just broadcast clear BLE, and your BLE receiver picks it up. Its one way communication.
Oh, ok. Then it shouldn't change.
I see the LYWSD03MMC talked about more often, but I would guess that one is the same concept.
I guess I could pick up broadcasts from these from my neighbours?
BLE is pretty short range
Though ... short is relative
I live in an apartment building. 🙂
Plenty of complaints in #bluetooth-archived about people picking up devices in nearby houses
Yeah I was very surprised to see that my outdoor radio sensor was long dead and the indoor unit was happily showing the ouside temp. 😄
I was planning to get a flood sensor for my bathroom and for the area with heating pipes and saw that they had temp/humidity sensors as well so that's pretty good.
1 x CR2032 Li-ion rechargeable button cell battery 3.6V Lir2032 replaces all CR2032 Lithium 3V. Very cost-effective: A rechargeable CR2032 replaces 200 lithium CR2032 disposable battery cells Capacity: 40 mAh rechargeable 500 times. Dimensions: 20 mm x 3.2 mm. Weight: 2.6 g. Compatible models: CR...
Yeah I was aware these exist but there is probably no adapter for my battery charger or maybe even if there was the charger probably wouldn't charge this even as a li-ion battery?
it'd be a different charger I suspect
when I bought a pack recently, it came with the charger. 4 and charger for 8 quid or so.
I like my bluetooth inkbird in my freezer, takes AAA
but you can buy without
i think its 2 years
their lifespan is, however, reduced from regular ones. as you can see from the 'replaces 200' and 'rechargable 500 times'
"Replaces 200 cells" - how? 😄
hey, i just saw this "HP EliteDesk 800 G1 SFF" with
Intel Core i3 -4100U (4th Gen) 3.3 Ghz 4G RAM 128GB SSD.
Any opinion on running HA (with docker) and Frigate with 4-5 PoE outdoor cameras? even using it only for frigate is alright.
Prob still want a coral or a GPU, but ask in #cameras-archived probably
Anyone have any suggestions for a ceiling light, that quite potentially has battery/rechargable that will last a long time? I doubt it exists. I really don't want to wire it in that room. ideally zigbee, but literally open to anything
Does anyone know of a smart switch that would work for a split phase outlet. I am trying to find a way to switch off my in wall air conditioner at night and none of the smart plugs I see are for split phase.
Country?
USA.
I am willing to use something normal that I have to wire up if I can just be sure it will work. It's old wiring so its a 3 wire connector so could I use something designed for single phase that has L N G? since I just have L1 L2 G?
neutral is current carrying so the device shouldn't care right?
I have a sonoff powr2 I thought maybe could work. Though the labels on it are weird. Input L G G, Output L N N
Do you need to control both outlets, or just one?
i only have one split phase outlet in this addition to the house, and its runs the PTAC air conditioner (i know thats redundant). I just need to be able to shut that device off at night because its short cycling at night
if you have z wave. the "almond" jasco https://byjasco.com/enbrighten-z-wave-plus-light-almond-smart-tamper-resistant-outlet is cheap, only that color.. Zigbee i suggest, https://www.amazon.com/Sinopé-Smart-in-Wall-Outlet-Zigbee/dp/B083YR8BHD/ref=sr_1_9?crid=IEK8ITEZWV82&keywords=sinope&qid=1689190025&s=hi&sprefix=sinope%2Ctools%2C87&sr=1-9
its spiking to 1700 wats for like 3 minutes then turning off for 5 minutes. It's fine during the day. But I also just don't need it running at night. I am willing to cut open the cord and wire something in
Essentially you would make the switch, an always on switch
and you would bind a zigbee button, or any outlet too it.
unless that doesn't solve your problem, might be to much for an A/c. but then also i'd still consider that strategy and a smart plug
afiak there are no code issues with turning a switched outlet into an always on outlet
oh the outlet is not switched
split or switched, sorry, i meant split
Sorry if that was unclear. I don't care about code anyway as this house is not up to code. The way the split phase is wired is wrong for todays code but was fine in teh past
sorry if i read it wrong
if that plug works, that means anything that has LNG will work right? like this sonoff I have that is designed to be spliced into the cord?
I can change the outlet but it'd be easier if I could modify the device
I'll look at the plugs. Either way I am having to cut up the cord on the device so a smart outlet might be close to the same difficulty, might just have an unsightly wall hole but I can print an outlet cover if there is a gap
I have a z-wave dongle in a box somewhere and I need to get my z-wave stuff working so thats a good way to go to force me to do that. I am tired of google assistant saying "Sorry, 28 devices are not available" when i turn on or off the lights 🙂
if you shove everything into rooms in google assistant, you should be able to avoid that
or stop exposing them to google
Bit the bullet on a Aqara presence sensor during the Amazon sales and would highly recommend for open floor plans buildings. it’s replaced multiple motion sensors, a door sensor and does a far better job at it. Only downside is the cable.
Yeah, I really wish there was a way to run on battery, at least the Zigbee version
so what methods do any of y'all use to monitor the clothes dryer and push a notification when it's done?
does washer light up a led when its done?
you can monitor that with a photoresistor
Smart plug?
if it has energy monitoring its doable but would need to be tuned for specific device
Vibration sensors are popular
He asked about a dryer he’s already using a smart plug for washer
there is but a giant 20kg battery is not an improvement over a cable 😄
power monitoring plug
The power drops from a few killowatts to <10W I assume. Not that much tuning needed.
i can detect in which mode the dryer is depending on the power consumption
my drier uses about 500w
I've got the washer handled, it's on a flashed S31 and I set up that blueprint etc. The dryer though, I don't know if they make plugs that will work with an electric dryer.
you need a pretty heavy-duty one to handle that level of current, yeah
you could do energy monitoring on the breaker side with shelly em
the only one I know of is the heavy-duty one from aeotec (z-wave) but there's probably others; or, yeah, use the breaker side
or a clamp style power monitor
So someone mentioned proxmox— what distro of Linux is the nicest one to throw on this little Lenovo box I just got
Oh never mind I see it runs the entire thing — neat
Debian if you're going that route, but yeah Proxmox is it's own distro built around virtualization.
Incidentally based on Debian lmao.
you can also install proxmox over other debian distros, like ubuntu
it comes packaged up nicely in the repos
Probably better to use the officially recommended and documented OS though
If you have a linux distro, you can directly use LXD for VM and Linux containers. Much lightweight than proxmox. It by default does not come with UI. But there a docker image for its UI. Honestly the Cli is super easy and efficient
i personally use debian with casa os as web ui/container manager
Okay. But i was talking about VM and linux containers. Not docker containers. LXD enables you to have multiple "machines" on the same host...like any other hypervisor https://ubuntu.com/lxd
Low-touch virtual infrastructure with LXD at any scale. Built on top of Linux containers, LXD offers a unified user experience in managing system containers, virtual machines and clusters. Easily configurable, flexible and secure way to run your workloads.
They probably want to run HAOS though
Question for the hivemind, are there any wifi lightbulbs that can be set to work entirely without internet? I.e. setup with no cloud, install on subnet with no internet, and with just Home Assistant and/or MQTT visible. For all their misbehaviours, at least Zigbee bulbs work without The Internet, but all the retailers around here have dropped Zigbee and only sell Wifi bulbs now, which of course have their own apps and insist on phoning home.
Looking for advice on what to buy:
- "smart bulb"
- install and run entirely without public Internet, MQTT and HomeAssistant support a bonus
- mains is 220V, 50Hz, and the house has a mix of B22 and E27 sockets
I fully expect there are no such creatures, but I figure I can ask 🙂 thanks!
There used to be tuya bulbs with esp chips that could be easily hacked with esphome. Now those are not available. Most tuya firmware are proprietary now with beken chipw, which is also hackable but i don't think bulbs were possible consistently
Your best bet is the switch with a dimmer and use a dimmer capable light.
Aqara still has zigbee bulbs though. So as ikea ones, but are relatively expensive
You can get halfway there with Tuya. VLAN off from your secure network, allow IA, setup on cloud & retrieve key, then block from IA and local DNS and use https://github.com/rospogrigio/localtuya/
Many Wi-Fi bulbs can still be flashed with wled, esphome, or tasmota but I’m talking about this from a us 110v perspective
Don’t buy anything with the name tuya in it if you want quality or reliability period.
Google showed me localtuya, which seems to be halfway there. Cracking the bulb open to grab jtag or serial and reflash works for me; but with 220V and kids, i might be better with things I don't have to break open..
Does anyone know how to connect to a levoit 600s air purifier without using the company’s cloud service? I’m trying to keep my HA setup 100% local
Yeah you might be better off with Zigbee. There are a handful of bulbs you can, very carefully, open up and flash but really you should just go Zigbee.
My biggest regret when starting was buying tuya. Just because it has an integration doesn't mean it's a good idea. Good bulbs help build a good network. For dumb devices sure, rgb stuff that's cheap. but light switches? I think I spent as much money wasted on tuya verse buying a higher quality the first time
I swear by Tuya and have saved literally thousands going this route. No issues at all with 30+ devices and at 2 years a bulb for £3 even if I was replacing them every 6 months it would still be more cost effective than Hue or anything else people consider more premium and in fact the one time I did (Nanoleaf) I had nothing but issues so YMMV
I’d wager most saying it’s bad will have been using the baked in integration which isn’t local, relies on the cloud and is absolutely awful, or have a congested/bad wifi network and have simply moved to zigbee based devices or something non-WiFi based so comparing experiences is a little moot.
10 wifi devices will be awful on say a carrier router but 10 zigbee devices don’t really touch it. It’s all about your network with any WiFi devices regardless of price.
Some things are awful - eg sensors that only ping out over the internet but anything locally controllable while being able to completely segregate the device from the internet for this price is absolute 🔥
My lan is UniFi, so should tolerate a few more devices and I have an isolated subnet for all the IoT things, with zero internet. Zigbee has been a lot more reliable since I ditched the cc2530 dongle and got a zigbee3 one with a decent antenna. I think I would prefer zigbee bulbs for the cloud-free; but no one near me seems to sell them any more 😦
I’m looking specifically for thread as I upgrade now, though a lot of my Aqara kit is zigbee (sensors/blinds/curtains) the bulbs just seem so rare unless you go ikea - and wow if people think tuya is bad, can’t even use adaptive lighting with those which is a must for me.
There are bulbs with Tasmota or esphome preflashed, Matter bulbs started coming out too which are local
Was reading about the espressif matter bits with the new chips and that, game changer for the cheap local smart home devices once those are being thrown at every cheap manus white-labelled devices.
Is there any smart washing machine with home assistant integration?
I don't suppose there is some list of sensors, IR blasters, etc. that people use and recommend?
no, I am not looking for sensors , I am looking for a washing machine itself that is smart and can be integrated with home assistant
There are things I'm looking for as well.
I know AEG/Electrolux and Samsung have some sort of integration
No, there are individual creators that have their lists, some sponsored, some not
"Athom" brand have Tasmota preflashed. Interesting, very interesting...
Lucky Goldstar ("LG") wifi appliances can be bodged into Home Assistant, but my understanding is this only works if you leave the "cloud" part enabled. I.e. no local. Strangely, we didn't buy that model
Can you share some if you have any on hand?
Anybody else put off by the presence of those stupid smiley faces on some sensors with screens or is it just me? 😄
Depends how professional I am feeling. A "cutsey" product with the smily faces and winking emoji when you push "start" is fine, if tedious, at home. But if this is supposed to be a serious product for doing serious work, not so much
I'm talking about the ones which frown if it's cold or humid.
I don't keep any on hand
You said integrated in home assistant, that includes all types of integration including cloud
There's the reality of kitchen appliances being targeted to a specific market segment that's known for liking cutesy
Yup. Weird people like me who love toys and hate The Cloud aren't really the target audience for modern appliances 🙂
any idea if they can be run locally with internet blocked?
If their integration says "local" then yes
I want the Fingerbot on Zigbee because it's cool but I don't have any use cases for it. Anyone found a creative use case? 😄
Selfdestruct device for the HA host machine? Pressing the power button or pushing the USB power cable out 
Why not an Ethernet guillotine?
Don't know if it is powerful enough for that 🤷
for that you just need to cut one wire (orange one)
I think my SDR is over heating. Any recommendations for a decent one that will last?
So many channels, please direct me to the right place, if i am wrong. I want to add some LED Strips to my Setup, without external cloud, is there some product which is known to work good?
The best option from what I've seen from people here is probably to #diy-archived build your own strips using wled or esphome, but there are probably some #zigbee-archived controllers that will come recommended if you want a readymade solution.
Seems like Sonoff stuff can be localy controlled, I think I will just test that. worst case my nephew gets a LED strip to play with
Yeah sonoff's mains powered Zigbee stuff is decent, and a lot of their WiFi devices can be flashed with esphome or Tasmota for proper local control.
It’s wled or esphome not +
If he wants ready to go buy athom controller and an led strip
Like ws2812b
don't, its a waste of money
what do you plan to do with the LED strip?
1st project is my new desk, doing some lights under it
well yeah, LED strips are for some lights
do you have a need for an addressable led strip for that purpose?
just to play with it for now, but seems those are way cheaper on ali...
almost everything is 😄
yeah, if it is the real stuff, not liek 64TB SSDs 😉
if the LED strip is 3$ and claims 1000W its probably not real
and fake SSDs can be easily found on Amazon
wait, is the controller included with ws2812b? or do i need the athom with it?
ah no power supply either, need to pay attention
depends on where you're looking
was wondering because the strips are listed with Bluetooth
yes you need a LED strip, appropriate controller and appropriate power supply
wow the power draw is higher then i would have expected
60leds/m----18watt/meter, and then power supplies only go up to 50W, i am confused
Ah found different ones, but can somebody confirm that those strips general pull that much?
if you want to do big projects consider his boards instead of athom ones
he has boards with > 2oz copper in them delivering 30a continous with 50a burst
often used for big projects like leds around the house
you can do it all yourself with an esp32 and fuses and wires and relay(s) if you are that guy too
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/397426163649216512/914682412099850280/video0.mov my disco kitchen using one of his dig quads
I will do max maybe 6-8m, if i decide to light up beneath my couch
i really need to redo it, that was my first big project and made some mistakes
for stuff like under bed / under desk you can get away with 30/meter instead of 60/meter and even limit brightness in software
i power 150leds in a 5meter 30/meter ws2812b strip under my bed with 3amps (limited to 2.4a in the controller to not overload the psu) and it looks great
Athom ESPHome?
athom is a chinese brand. esphome is open source firmware
that is way less then i found there
how bright do you need your bed to be?
or desk
not sure, but i don't think that bright, just to look 'cool' and RGB getes more kills of course
yep
well, and flex on my nephews...
you can put leds behind the monitor/tv too with stuff like hyperion
https://quinled.info/quinled-dig2go/ he sells these too
QuinLED-dig2go Available now! Below are the technical pages for the dig2go, please also visit https://dig2go.info and the getting started guide there! The QuinLED-dig2go is an easy to use small form factor addressable LED controller. It’s meant as easy entry point to digitally controllable LEDs and it mainly oriented towards smaller setups. Bein...
little 3amp controllers with a built in mic for sound reactive
there are lots of controllers out there tho
like all over tindie
right now i am just playin and testing if i like that in my home, so a kind oob experience would be helpful
https://www.drzzs.com/shop/dig2go/ these have options for rgb strip + power supply + controller for around $50 which isnt really cheap but isnt a huge markup
wled, another new letter combination
wled is open source firmware a lot of us flash on the controllers
it has a lot of neat features and is very easy to use, and the wled home assistant integration works well
well, i am in germany, so shipping and tarifs are a thing
well
you should mention that
otherwise it's assumed you live in murica on the internet
in that case i'd buy shit directly from alie and just do diy stuff
Athom looks nice with all the firmware variants
https://shop.allnetchina.cn/collections/quinled/products/quinled-dig2go-portable-digital-led-controller-kits or buy from his china store
Easiest to use ESP32 based digital LED yet - small enough to take on the road!
Control your digital LED strip out of your pocket - now combined with power supply and LED strip.
The rich feature set of this small pocket LED controller will surprise you!
Perfect for your party or events now with WS2812x /SK6812 strips and power supply. Can alt...
firmware takes like 10seconds to flash these days but yeah
if you can do it at all
Good old times with 22 EUR tax-free imports
yeah, they screwed us
ya but that clean coal sure is somethin
wled uses the same strips? sorry, so much new information, getting bit confused
wled is open source firmware that can be flashed onto espressif microcontrollers (such as esp32, esp8266)
2028 it will get worse - the 150 EUR duty-free limit will be dropped
it supports many types of led strips
A fast and feature-rich implementation of an ESP8266/ESP32 webserver to control NeoPixel (WS2812B, WS2811, SK6812) LEDs or also SPI based chipsets like the WS2801 and APA102!
maybe best if you look at their knowledge base^
ws2812b aka neopixel are one type of RGB (not RGBW) 5v led strip that are cheap and popular
guess that is the difference for different strips: Output channel: RGBW channel
that is a difference
i see
quindor has writeups on all this and youtube videos if you want to jump off the deep end
more for the pile of shame 😉
Oh, Athom has nice starter kits
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005300323985.html this one looks like a good start
i wouldnt suggest using their 10amp power supply with a barrel connector
the barrel connectors are almost all rated at 3amp and get melty after that
and athom is just a chinese company with a us storefront and cute name
you would want to inject 5v down the line anyway
same with the 3-pin jst-sm connectors, those are also rated at 3amps
bc thin pcb no likey 10a
If i look, buying the strip and the controller seperate would not get cheaper then the set, can replace the power supply here easily
you just cut the end off the psu and use wagos and wire to solder to esp32 or board directly
and inject power at end of strip like martin said above
i literally had one of those barrel connectors fail on me and cut it off and soldered direct
glad it didnt start a fire
why not
it can be from same psu bc dedicated wire will provide lower resistance path compared to led strip pcb
if you mix psus you have to tie grounds together (but not power/vcc)
must admit my electronic days are a bit behind me, would thought it makes no difference, but that of course depends on how the leds are chained
ok, understood
thanks very much for all the information
especially not from aliexpress
not all ws2812b are the same
most of us only buy from btf lighting cuz the failure rates seem to be lowest and colors less shit
funny enough the 1st i looked was btf
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1100777574?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.1da819c49eL8wZ they have an official store on alie
or resell at 2x-3x the price on amazon under the same name
that's one thing i really like about quindor's hardware+guides- he's made it very easy for someone to make a safe installation without knowing shit
was looking at those https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2036819167.html
thats alot of wires
no u
ws2812b ip30 60/meter or 30/meter either color pcb whatever length you want
you can also go for 12v or 24v but there are usually tradeoffs
this controller seems to not care about which strip type, just wire it differently https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005772664243.html
i'd probably buy the ir remote if getting that just to have one
that one has both spots to do data line for addressable or analog strips with color temp control
sound like something to start experimenting with and learn for later projects
sure
i dont think that one is using an esp32 tho
nope ```This WLED controller support both analog and addressable strip
Build in ESP8285 chipset with 2M flash```
probably fine for your use case
Ort this one? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003777230140.html
This would be my Checkout
Might as well buy Meanwell psu if you’re buying that metal cage style
did not think about the primary side...
You just cut off an old computer power supply end
You have a big box of them right?
They’re rated way higher than what you’re using
i don't order a psu, those are the same price over here
Cool
and ask my brother to install a sufficient primary connector... thats his job after all
or i connect them to a pc psu after all
Not a pc power supply…
will work too
Okay
You know what while we're on the topic of led strips.
My kid has a led strip in her room, it's got 4 pins: RGB and VCC. It's got a shitty IR controller and a 24v power supply. I'm in the US btw
What smart solution can I replace that with?
Should be able to use any analog controller with 24v out you want
Or diy with an esp32 and mosfets
Athom sells a cheap analog wled controller with an esp8285 in it iirc
So I'm in charge of a new apartment for my brother of 150m2, he will be married and we just bought that apartment for him
I want to give him as wedding gift the automation of the apartment
I am not sure of what devices to use
That’s a tall order dude
If ZigBee, zwave or wifi devices
I don't want him calling me in at 3am saying light is not turning off haha
Zigbee is likely a better choice, at least if you're smart about what you buy
Buying random devices is likely to work out poorly though
So the LS-5P would work for this application even though there won't be anything to connect to the "W" channel?
You set rgb rgbw etc in wled settings based on led strip used
And pins connected
Sick thanks.
You can reuse the ir remote with a controller with ir built in but it’s a bitch to compile wled for it and program it
I personally haven’t played with ir due to said bitch
Athom sells a version with ir precompiled for their specific 24 button remote or w/e
honestly half the reason I want to replace the controller is that she keeps losing the remote.
They are generic
You could have 10 of them
And control via hass or remote
Or wled app
Or json http api
You can even compile usermods for random additional control options like the clapper
Lol
I bought a few tradfri wireless dimmer with no hub and i got ZHA...
Do i need the addon Ikea Tradfri from HA or use ZHA install
You don't need the Ikea integration, just ZHA, you only need the integration if you're trying to connect HA to a Tradfri hub
trying it but it seems that my ZHA is having issues since this power outage happened this morning.. messed up my HA pretty bad
SONOFF NSPanel WiFi Smart Scene Wall Switch,2-Switch Panel Smart Home Control,Touchscreen Control for Smart Temperature Function,Lights,Work with Alexa & Google Home Assistant,Black https://a.co/d/4MAnWKm
Do you need one device to centrally control multiple electrical appliances in your home, from lights, heaters, coolers, curtains, doors, and windows? Inconceivable!! NSPanel can control all of these devices, offering an integrated HMI panel for home automation that is super convenient, all you ne...
Have anyone tried that ?
why?
LED strips or bulbs?
i was looking at the hexagon lights, brianstorming where to throw em
Oh
then it got me wondering if i can use them in automations
3d printer?
eh?
Do you have one
You can make your own with open source firmware like wled
ah, yea i knew that, i saw a similar thing on....tested? i think?
ya
im pretty sure that shop is an entire warehouse
ya but he talks about it like its right down stairs from his house
which, it might be
When you live in an ivory tower everything is right down the stairs
convenient tower
Anyways point is you can make your own led strips using open source firmware and cheap microcontrollers like esp32
but anyway, can you roll govee lights into automations and whatnot locally or is it all cloud based?
You can buy you shouldn’t buy them in the first place
They aren’t selling better leds
They’re selling cloud connected Chinese hardware at a 300% markup
Also govee themselves is a Chinese conglomerate
was this some sort of secret?
Sure
we're all aware
We?
you, me and the queen
Are you asking for advice or just being weird?
i was asking about govee and you went on a tangent
they're all dumb overpriced anyway
i dliek to see a tear down and see how they diffuse the leds
Just migrated HA to a VM with proxmox and was curious if anyone had some RAM recommendations / guidelines? System has 16gb RAM and current VM has been assigned 4
That's fine
Maybe it also means just looking at the VM for spikes in memory
You can but 4 should be plenty unless you start having problems.
Every day I find more reasons to talk my wife into a 3D printer.
Sure I could go to the public library and use the printers there but that's less practical for major projects.
You can integrate them, there's even a local API, but like. Why would you do that when there are better options that won't stop working if Govee decides they don't like local control being an option?
It’s less practical for any application once you understand 3d printing
whats a better option?
probably nanoleaf for the panels if you don't want to build your own, since that has an official integration and it's local push.
3d printers have many fine uses and are a source of great fun. And frustration. Newer designs with automatic leveling and some actual care on first layer are better than the Ender3 of 4-5y ago
And, of course, both Marlin and Klipper have HomeAssistant connections 😄
anyone can answer this? https://github.com/raomin/ESPAltherma/discussions/302
Hi I'm from India and purchased a smart switch hub from a company called tinxy That requires live and neutral to be powered but my switch board doesn't seem to have neutral in it , it has a common phase line for the switches and the other end of the switches go on to the fans and lights etc so yea, however there are a bunch of wires just passing thru the switch board hole(without connecting to any switches just wall access. What would be the way to figure out if they have neutral or any other option?
I could post pictures of the wirings here if needed
Any help would be appreciated
I can buy a D54250WYK (i5 4520u, 8gb ram and 250 ssd with a replaced fan 1 year ago) for 50 euro. Is it worth grabbing that or spending some more money for a more powerful NUC?
for what?
At the momeny, only proxmox and HA, but might expand in the future.
I know it's strong enough for HA. However, what I really mean is, is it worth 50 euro or should I buy a more powerful one just in case I want to dabble in more powerful stuff like adding a plex server.
do you want to dabble in more powerful stuff?
I don't know. I'm just going down the HA route.
how should we know if you need a more powerful computer if you don't know what you want to do with it?
Maybe from observered experience that it's common for people to do more stuff or not. Maybe from personal experience. Or simply advice. Maybe knowledge if that kind of NUC is worth the 50 euro today.
my observed experience is that people do whatever they want to do. the nuc is worth 50 euro if thats the fair market price for your country, second hand market is not the same worldwide
Pretty sure it works quite well if your setup is tuned properly.
On the other hand you can always just plug things together and have something working but at the cost of processing cycles. Which leads to the need for more performant machines.
the mere fact you're not sure it'll be enough would indicate it'll probably not be enough at some future point
Thanks, that is decent advices.
I currently only have a bluetooth temp/humidity sensor. I intend to add one more, a couple of IR blasters for AC and a couple of flood sensors. Possibly something else in the future. Would going the bluetooth route be a bad idea? I currently have no gateways and intend to use an old laptop I have as a bluetooth "gateway" as well as a bunch of other functions.
Another option might be wifi but that probably uses a lot of power and I suspect my AP will start dropping clients.
why not get a better AP then if yours is that bad?
I think all of them are bad. 😄
And I probably don't want that chinesium stuff on my network anyway.
But I'm wondering are there any significant downsides to sticking with bluetooth and not one of those zwave/zigbee/whatever standards?
apart from bluetooth being the inferior protocol, no
Why is it inferior?
No mesh-networking, no direct binding,.
Hmm... I just realized that I also have these analog floor heating Danfoss thermostats that I'd like to make smart. What should I know about them so that I get a compatible one?
Just upgraded from rPi to NUC
congrats
It's funny rPi are so desired if nucs and thinkstations are so cheap and accesible second hand
it has good marketing from the times they were 25$
And as a consecuence of that 90% of tutorials call for raspberry pis
Hi,
Anyone else who has issues with IKEA's old motion sensor (Type: E1525)?
Two of my sensors are showing the battery level 255%
My thermostat looks exactly like this one: https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/danfoss-basicplus-and-basicplus2-room-thermostats-088u0601-18946930333.html
Is there some wiring standard or something that a smart one would need to be compatible with?
If you use a Thinkstation for things you could easily use a Pi 4 you’ll pay for it in electricity long term, not to mention you could stick the pi anywhere but need to accommodate a tower setup with something like this. There’s a plethora of reasons why one might pick one over the other outside of price to performance.
Kinda like the old “why would you buy a laptop when you can build a better pc cheaper” argument, it’s not incorrect if you only look at specs but it’s ignoring all the things that make laptops essential for some people.
The wife and kids are going to the summer cabin next week, I’m left alone at home because my vacation doesn’t start quite yet.
So naturally I ordered a bunch of switch modules, really hoping they’ll come before the end of the week 😅
Got a bunch of Aqara T1 to test first
I just recently found out that there are no neutral switch modules with a reasonable price
Not that long ago most modules required neutral, were very expensive and still were often z-wave
So if mine is the FH-CWT mentioned here: https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/79629/AI173286471459en-010201.pdf is it fair to assume there's 230V power and then it just shorts the circuit when heating is needed?
Or what the "valve NO" and "valve NC" refer to in https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/latest/30431/AN02998646815001-010201.pdf ?
Normally Open and Normally Closed. With no control signal applied, Common and Normally Closed are connected. When the control signal is applied, it changes to connect Common and Normally Open
is it safe to put a window air conditioner on a sonoff smart switch?
depends on which sonoff switch and how much power the air conditioner draws
do I just look at the maximum wattage of the sonoff and compare it to the power draw of my air conditioner?
or just say which sonoff switch
😅 its the s31
which is a plug not a switch
then yes, compare the max AC power draw with S31's
then leave 20% room
does amperage matter?
will you use smart plug to start the ac?
it also depends on the ac unit
cheap ones dont have soft starter or inverter so it experiences large inrush currents and will destroy relay quickly
this is what it says on the side. but, no. im going to turn it on and off with an ir blaster.
what do you want to achieve?
monitor power usage or turn it on/off
monitor if it is on already so that i can automate sending on/off commands via broadlink IR based on temperature in the room and outside.
no danger then
so long as i dont toggle the sonoff off/on?
yup
Can you rephrase that? 😄
At any rate, would a thermostat from any other company be compatible or should I look for something specific?
omg, HA restarts so much faster when it's not on an RPi4 and SD card storage
Is that important at all?
Depends on how often you restart HA. I just did it three times within 5 minutes getting ESP Presence configured
Fewer things require HA restarts now than several years ago, but it's still annoying if it takes minutes to boot
If I want to control my water floor heating and AC (only possible via IR I guess) I could probably use the same sensor for temp/humidity in the heating thermostat for both? I guess there are probably no thermostats that would both control floor heating as well as send IR to an AC unit?
So in the winter the smart thermostat would either keep a set temp or be set from HA to do something. And in the summer I'd set it to something like 10ºC to not start the pump and just use it to get the temperature. And then use IR blasters with HA to send commands to the AC units.
Does this make sense?
Greetings fellow automators. I have a question. I was thinking of getting a tablet for reading some books (im a weirdo who likes to read in darkmode with a backlight). was thinking of getting a tablet just for that. so thats an el-cheapo in my books. but that got me to thinking. Does anyone program automations using a tablet? if so what do you use/would you reccomend. is a stylus a requirement? Thing is i tend to use alot of code, prefer to YAML so i dont really see a tablet forfilling this role. The only reason i'm exploring it is because im struggling to find the time to work on my automations. figured a tablet might enable me to do so during wife time haha.
any advice is welcome. Cheers
Hey, I have a question. I'm planning to set up the HA server on a dirt-cheap WYSE thin client tomorrow.
Question: can I plug in regular pc speakers, or any other wired analog ones, and use them as an alarm for alarm clocks and notifications? or do I need to buy an amazon echo/google home speaker?
EDIT: I found some solutions with USB speakers, but they had HA on PI, just curious if I can utilize an onboard soundcard in my WYSE.
Why not setup all your automations on a real computer? They're not "on" the device anyway, they're all in HA
If you're doing yaml, things tend to get a bit messy on a tablet - page widths and stuff
Were not kidding on the dumb part
My wife is away
I should send this to her and say I set it up
Be careful though. The S31 is only rated to 5amps, your AC draws 5.5amps. The plug might get really warm and/or burn out earlier than expected (even if not using as 'the' switch). I would recommend the S40 that's rated to 15amps. That would give you more than enough amperage wiggle room that Blackadder suggested.
Haha that would be hilarious
Although it looks stupid, it suprisingly works very well.
2kg worth of batteries and fishing weights
Just accept your fate, and do it when you have time 🤷🏻♂️
I have just recently started to find time to actually work on my smart home setup
I’ve been thinking about this stuff for good 7-10years now
Committed to Unraid as server OS probably 2-3 years ago
And I’ve managed to actually get something done in the last 4 months 😂
And just this starting week I’ll probably create my first automations after something like 6 years with none
i fear you are correct. It is what it is. still appreciated
hey guys, i've got a quick question about the sensibo sky i can't find resolute answers for online
if i set it up, can i use my current dumb remote to control the a/c and the sensibo can pick up that signal and update the app to whatever i changed it to?
Hi, all, i have recently installed solar pannels and managed to make HA retrieve the data from the inverter. Issue is that inverter is not such good quality so often it provides unreliable data (es: Batt SOC-580%, Live Solar Power 60kW and after a few minutes it gets back to normal). I am looking for a solution to have stable data on battery side so i am looking for a solution to monitor the power (IN&OUT) directly from the cables connecting the Batt<->Inverter. Is there any device that you can suggest me that i can integrate into HA that is able to retrieve this type of info ? (es an amperometric sensor for DC current) ? Thanks in advance
Hi, I run HAOS on an intel nuc. I want some network storage that can be accessed by PCs, laptops, mobiles etc. I dont want to buy a NAS. Is there a way to add an external HDD/SSD to my HAOS nuc and designate that as a network drive?
Hi guys, i have ESPHome with a ESP8266 device with a led light and 5 buttons. The buttons use the internal pull-up resistor. However every night at 3 they suddenly all activate. Does someone know what the cause could be of this?
#diy-archived or the ESPHome Discord would be a better place to ask
Thanks!
anyone have a recommendation for decent dumb/smart dehumidifier?
buy dumb and use smart plug with it
maybe upgrade it with condensate pump
thats what I want since I got smart plugs laying around
I don't think HAOS is setup for that specifically ... you might look at using proxmox and having a VM that can deal with the external drive
any recomendation for dehumidifier if u r maybe using one?
i am not using one but make sure it uses refrigiration compressor and not peltier element
since peltier ones are super cheap but super useless and inefficient
Not sure if I ask a correct hardware question. But… ;). Does anyone know a good source of thin clients used for HA?
To access the HA dashboard or to run HA?
To run HA. I have it running in Docker on a Pi3. That runs fine for me.
But I want to move away from an SD card as storage and a proper casing.
ebay, generally
What do you mean? I've gotten my machines from Amazon. Do you mean compare specs?
