#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 19 of 1
yeah. ok well at least I have decided not to buy new hardware yet.
if you do; mini pc seems best mix
yeah, for sure. I just randomly ended up with this thing and it'll work out okay. core i5-1035G1, 12GB DDR4, geforce mx130
oh nice
when it was in windows briefly, it seemed like it was just using the integrated graphics not the discrete, so I should be able to just use that in a VM/container for acceleration
will probably just take a little effort to figure it all out
yeah lots of reading
lol could even take out the motherboard and 3d print a case to stick it in the rack 😂
Just watched a teardown video. Not bad at all
Don't think it's touchscreen
so kiosk with mouse
yeah. except it'll be sitting off in the garage anyway, won't see it much
if it was touch screen would make a cool kiosk
it would. I'm still trying to figure out how to some sort of tablet kiosk that I'm happy with
If your motherboard has addressable RGB leds, I don't see why not.
I have an inwall GE zwave dimmer for a fan, and it adds as a fan control, but the fan is a bit oversized for the room, so we like it at about 15-20%, but it only goes by 33%. Is there an easy way to change that? Should I jsut change it to a dimmer instead of a fan control?
I've a need to set up a small set of sensors at a remote location. I already have one of the Raspberry Pi keyboard computers at home, but as Raspberrys are hard to come by right now I'm trying to figure out which bit of hardware I can get away with in order to integrate a set of ESPHOME devices to record temperature. What do poeple who are starting fresh usually buy to host Home Assistant?
no, and probably no. the fan switch definitely only has three speeds. a dimmer made for lights will likely burn out pretty quickly connected to a fan
Typically the amps drawn by a motor are quite a bit higher than a light. I don't know if the fans use TRIAC dimming like lights do, but I would doubt it. So since it is only connecting to a different set of coils for the different speeds(at a guess) OK I should probably go research before I pretend I know what I'm talking about. I've done a bunch of work with dimming lights, but not motors. I know at plants the VFD motors have a Drive which does some crazy stuff converting back and forth between AC and DC, but I sincerely doubt we're doing that in our home ceiling fans.
" Every time the chain is pulled, the motor circuit changes to a predefined coil winding that causes the speed to vary."
Looks like I had the right idea
I have a GE fan switch as well, and mine only has the three speeds
So yeah you'd need a variable speed drive to use that sort of dimmer on your fan.
if yours has a pull chain as well you could try setting that to the middle speed and then the switch to the low or middle speed
Well, I bought a dimmer made for inductive loads (motors) and it definitely has 100 speed settings when hooked up to Vera. So yes, I am using the proper dimmer for a fan, and no, it does not only have 3 speeds
it has worked for about 5 years with Vera home automation, and never had a problem, and it worked down to about 5% and 100% was way too high
We use it daily in the summer. I've read up a bunch and other people have similar issues, with Caseta fan modules that have 10 when on any other controller, and 3 on HA
Its literally a setting, percentage_step set on the entity, I can see it in developer tools, but I don't know how to change it
hello friends i am going to start my HA again but in the right way, before i had a raspberry but it was a bit slow in the cameras etc can anyone recommend me something better?
How many cameras?
6 cameras 😄
Mine (GE) has this too but it only has three speeds. 1-30ish is low, 30-75ish is medium, and higher is high. Never bothered to figure out the exact numbers.
Don't know which one you have, though.
The LED on the switch will blink at one of three different speeds when you set it, to show you what it's set to.
Probably ask in #zwave-archived
I haven't dug into the settings of the switch to see if it can do other things
like I said, on other home automation is works 1-100% in 1% increments, but on HA its 33% each
I'll go ask in zwave, but its really a hardware setting in HA
Like I said, I can set mine to 1-100 but it still only has 3 speeds.
It's on a hubitat right now until I can migrate everything over.
So maybe HA only does 33% because... it only has three speeds.
any ideas for me ?
ugh hate that I can't post pictures here.
Transform any home into a smart home with the Enbrighten Z-Wave Smart Fan Control. The in-wall fan control easily replaces any standard in-wall switch remotely controls a ceiling fan in your home and features a three-speed control system.
you can set the "level" to anything you want but it only has three speeds.
home assistant doing it in 33% increments is actually showing you that, where other systems don't
says so right on the amazon page, too. "3 speed control, low, medium, and high"
$135 aint bad for that cpu and ram imo
Does anyone know any good colour smart bulbs? I'm no expert on this smart home stuff but I have some Hue lights and a hub at the moment as well as a IKEA tradfri hub and want something compatible.
so hue and ikea are both zigbee
you might look into moving those on to a zigbee mesh using zigbee2mqtt or zha
Sorry I have no idea what any of that is?
yeah good things to google lol
basically hue hub and ikea hubs are both creating a zigbee mesh with their devices
so instead people (including me) decide to move off their hubs and create one big zigbee mesh with all our devices
it's a much better solution and doesnt require you to "only buy shit that works with hue"
you just need to buy something zigbee, ideally zigbee 3.0
I've been looking for some new E14 fitting colour smart bulbs for my bedroom, similar to hue but they are soooo expensive. The hue would cost me £150 whereas the IKEA would cost me abt £45
Is that like home assistant then?
nope
So its like 1 hub for all?
for all zigbee specifically
ok
if you wanted zwave stuff, you'd still need a zwave controller / hub (dont buy a zwave hub)
is that like a stick thing?
yep
zigbee uses "coordinators"
first you should watch a video or two on "zha vs zigbee2mqtt"
then once you decide on which of those you want to use to control your zigbee devices, then you pick your zigbee coordinator
or do the googles w/e you prefer
Yeh i had a look at them earlier. Do you have any recommendations for colour bulbs that would work?
as far as back to your original question with zigbee bulbs - hue is gold standard and ikea is next best thing
would work with?
Okay
zha? z2m? hue hub? ikea hub?
What about the WiZ bulbs, are they any better than the IKEAs?
n0
depending on the version they are bt only or wifi+bt
and have significant delays according to another guy on here
@rocky trail you're the guy who hates himself and bought wiz bulbs right
So its IKEA if i want to save and Hue if i want to spend?

basically
there are other options but for zigbee bulbs that's #1 then #2
i think some have suggested innr bulbs in #zigbee-archived but i am not familiar
i went full retard with hue then moved off their bridge to using zigbee2mqtt to control them all
shit works great
Okay I was just worried as there seemed to be limited colour selection on the IKEAs but ig it would be ok
hue is gold standard especially their new high lumen shit but $$$$$$$$$
i cant speak to the color such as CRI of rgbw bulbs
I did but they're all gong back
im not sure there is any good documentation regarding CRI with smart bulbs
basically we just go on "what most people say they think they look like"
i want to say that people have said that ikea bulbs color isnt great
but idk
HAve you got any opinions on the innr bulbs?
i have none
you can search innr here and see what has been said
ok thanks
there's usually the same convo that happened 100x depending on what you search
maybe innr is mostly plugs tho.. idk
think it's an eu brand
across the pond bois
What’s the general consensus on the best smart blinds? I’m willing to pay for custom and I’m agnostic to the protocol (z wave, zigbee, etc.)
Also is homekit necessary because the IKEA have it but the INNR only have siri shortcuts
I bought some smart blinds last year from IKEA, they're nothing fancy but they get the job done and I've had no issues yet
I have those in my current house, I’m not happy with them.
And I want a custom fit with u channel light blockers on the side.
Yeh they are basic but for what i use them for they get the job done
but you have to buy their stupid hub
and they're quite loud
?
Like some say that they support homekit but some say siri shortcuts
every bulb you have in zha or z2m can be added to homekit
unless you werent aware of that
yeah it's super nice
you can add ANYTHING to homekit with home assistant
ya you need to get off your hue hub and ikea hub and onto zha or z2m man
combine those meshes
Yeh ive only just started using home assistant recently and its such a game changer
it do be that way
Im gonna try to do that
no try only do
Well im not the most tech literate with this stuff
I used Z2M for my ikea blinds
I finally got some Symphonik wifi speakers and get 'em hooked up. 🙂 What're some good, smart things to do with speakers and HA?
Ooh, I like that! I mean, not that exactly, but like... theme music!
alright, gotta find a good "I'm home" song.
many ideas
barking dogs when someone presses door button or knocks
or walks past your cams
No doorbell, the front door is inaccessible, and no cams yet. 😕
make sure you can use em with frigate when you get there
ai detection for cameras
Oh! I'll put that in the back of my mind. That's smart.
I'll be building a house from the ground up but for the time being I'm in a rental and don't want to do major modifications.
for best performace your need a coral ai device
I'm just building up little bits and pieces here to prepare.
My robot vacuum destroyed my sofa weight sensors last night so I'll have to fix that up this week...
For a good three days, Netflix would pause whenever I got up and resume when I sat back down 🙂
i had my cams given to me; ot the best but functinal
What else can I do with speakers?
scare people
I mean... I could scare my dog, but I like my dog.
confuse your dog
Still like my dog.
have it speak doggo key works
Oh that’s a great idea. How did you wire this up
I might still have some links.... one sec.
https://circuitjournal.com/50kg-load-cells-with-HX711
Hook it up to MQTT and then in NodeRed wait for a big enough shift in weight to trigger a person leaving/sitting, check the current status of the media player and then pause/play if necessary.
... I can not find a good "welcome home" song/sound.
Eye of the tiger?
something that builds you up
I always hated that song.
or makes you feel good
I've got a good morning song. When I get my sleep pad delivered I'm gonna have it play that when I get out of bed. 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAM7c99Fw0k
I'm a social geek 🙂
More a joke about what WFH has done to me.
I've been WFH since 2015. Gotta make an effort to be social now.
Well, thank you for spending all my money.
🙂 Happy to help
Yeah, I actually don’t leave home because I’m in a car brained area and it turns out getting a home and having a kid didn’t make me hate driving less.
just get a cpap/bipap and it can do iit
So that’s been bad. Good news, moving somewhere where I can bike more.
Driving is the single most stressful thing in my life.
Pretty much every time I go out I almost get hit. People drive really badly here.
yeah; others are the issues usally
People drive well here, I just hate getting it out.
I’ll walk an hour before I’ll drive 15 minutes.
I live in Mexico. There's no driving test required to get a license here.
was in a pileup last year
I only wanna get it out if I’m going a long, long way.
i didn't hit anyone though
bad driver in front of me suddenly stopped; they sent a police heli to search for the issue
but since my reflex and spacing was good ; i stopped in time
Cars, they’re dangerous.
Cars aren't dangerous. The pendejos driving them are.
That we default to them for all transit is … not great!
esp the people in them
Eh, theyre heavy and go fast. They’re inherently dangerous.
Sure.
Ok, I need to figure out how to play an internet radio station in node red...
Pedantic, but correct.
More speaker ideas that don't involve torturing my dog?
no; apperantly not
Yeah, that's disappointing. And creepy.
and yet you've come up with how many original ideas for it?
I've had it for an hour.
so get thinking?
atm I'm trying to figure out how to play media on nodered
oh, media_play is quite different from play_media. Good, that's clear.
Documentation isn’t node-red’s strong suit.
Tbh, i wish I’d made some of my node red scripts python.
Well I've got a nice flow that plays volume appropriate music (random stations I like) when I get home and turns it off when I leave.
Learning how to do that is on my list.
make button for dog to push so do cn talk to you?
She's communicative enough.
Hi guys looking at getting an echo show 15... Is there a better alternative tablet I could use to be the ha hub?
On HA, if I try to set 20%, it changes it to 33%, if I set it up on Vera, I can do 21%, which is markedly different than 15%
Does anyone know whether I can access the settings of a Unifi AP within HA?
I want to control the AP's LED
doesn't appear the unifi integration can do that
Thanks, was afraid so 😦
Hi,
im searching help on setting up a winees ip cam via onvif but im failing because of wrong system time.
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/winees-ip-camera-failing-with-onvif/541555
I got a LAN-computer with an Intel 10400 and 16GB ram that I want to use as a server when not gaming. Is Windows 11 Home ok for home assistant? any drawbacks?
Windows make a shite server, especially the consumer versions including windows 11
Any specific reason? Besides the forced updates..I know it will be a compromise but some I can live with
Or I just dual boot or get a separate gaming ssd for it
servers don't like to be dual booted, because obvious reasons
besides troublesome hyperv installations you will run into trouble with discovery
Im the only person in my home so downtime is not a problem. What solution would you recommend?
Is ESXi a thing nowadays?
esxi might be overkill
I'd do linux on the machine and windows in kvm+gpu passthrough for gaming
Ok sounds interesting, got a distro to recommend?
debian, else fedora if you have a bit of linux experience
very limited, Ive ran Ubuntu before but not sure if I call that experience
Ive seen proxmox mentioned
proxmox is easy for most, you will have 2 vms then
Proxmox is similar to ESXi?
yes
Ok nice, how would you run HA, in its own VM?
or through docker in debian? sorry for the maybe stupid questions 🙂
ok thanks, will try HAOS on proxmox first
make sure you set it's cpu type to host
so that it can use all your cpu functions
will do!
What are the downsides to container?
I just set up proxmox and set up docker/portainer in an LXC container on that. I suppose passing through some USB stuff there might be tricky.
Downsides... you have to back it up yourself
I would like to log air and surface temperatures in my home, any recommendations?
I prefer Pt100/RTD sensors but would like some advice on what to connect them to and how to get the data to HA
ESPHome?
Hello, is this a good alternative to the pi?
Tea kettles with memory
Thx, maybe ESP32 with DS18B20 then
My "welcome home" v1 is working. 🙂 When I come home it starts playing a random station from a list I assigned at the correct volume, pauses when I leave and when the TV turns on, resumes when the TV stops for more than a few minutes. v2 will stop the music when I go to bed, start when I wake up, and maybe I can get it to stop when I'm on the phone.... Thanks again for your suggestion!
All wiz bulbs returned. Such a shame, because they it was $250 for 36 bulbs
ya but dont you get a sense of pride and accomplishment out of buying $80 rgbw 1600 lumen hue bulbs?
Not when I'm buying 30 of them
be a lot cooler if you did
The really annoying part is the hardware seems great. Feels like this would be a really simple firmware fix.
probably
I think I will move home assistant to a VM on this AIO. So I just need a bunch of zwave and zigbee repeaters to reach my meshes 😂
Yeah, that's a good idea.
I know
Hey all. Looking for the best option in a video doorbell using HA, but MUST be wireless. Condo rules 🙄
Curious the suggestions from the community.
by wireless you mean battery powered not wifi correct?
hi, this might be a stupid question but I retrieved my xiaomi token and i found the IP and I made sure it can be found by miiocli. The question is, what do I do now? How do I use this information to add the device in my HA so I don't have to hit the Xiaomi servers to talk to the device?
hello, I have added an RFXtrx USB dongle and I can find it when setting up the integration.
However it does not find any devices (used the same dongle in my Previous corrupted HAOS so the device is working.), can I run any specific command to list USB devices to I can make sure it is in fact communicating correctly?
Does anyone know of a zigbee 4 gang light switch that also works as a router, not just an endpoint? I know that if it doesn't have a neutral, it's definitely an endpoint, but even many ones with neutral wires still only function as end points...
4 gang switch? I’ve never seen one.
Why not just use four 1 gang zigbee switches?
I use the GE en brighten. They’re router devices.
Inovelli also has one. But it’s sold out atm.
hello
what's fine intercom?
In the camera section, they said to ask the question here.
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Are you attempting to communicate between two rooms in a house, between indoors and your front porch, or some other situation?
he's not following basic advice or providing enough info to help him.. i dont think he actually wants help
I mean without knowing jack shit, just get a doorbird, they're a mighty fine intercom
But yeah people that refuse to be helped are the worst
you sent me here you're still talking meaningless
I'll stop responding
You need to explain what you want it for, and other things mentioned in #hardware-archived message
what do you tell him
I just asked Intercom
Since then, something says it's not my answer
Lol we're supposed to intuit from one word what someone wants and refusing to answer any questions? The only solution to trolls is to block them.
@hollow orchid I'm talking about a light switch. Can't put 4 of those on a wall together!
you have to be blocked because you don't know how to talk
@slim vortex knock it off
@jovial verge same for you ... walk away
Sure you can?
Super common configuration
What size wall box do you have?
Yeah you will likely have to break off the side heatsink tabs which will lower the max load the switch will support
Unless you have a 4 gang all with several hundred watt fixtures you'll be fine
Hello. I'm looking for recommended smart switches (US) preferably with dimming capabilities. I'm cheap, so I'd say under $40 per switch is good.
A plus if it has a relay disconnect for smart bulbs.
Zigbee or Wifi preferred, though I'd assume Zigbee is the better way to go?
Inovelli blue fit everything but your price range
Wifi will often be cheaper but might come with terrible cloud
Zooz ticks all the boxes if you're open to zwave. they have all the features for like $25. Zigbee switches I think inovelli is the only real good option, and those are $50 and out of stock for a long time.
Yeah zooz is a good brand
But the notification bar on the inovelli is pretty useful, nobody forgets to lock the door in my house haha
Thanks! I'm just using WiFi right now as I'm just starting out (bought Kasa Dimming switches, but I don't really like them).
What's a good z-wave adapter?
zooz again has a pretty good one now that they updated the firmware
Just make sure you have a USB extension cable
If you get the zooz one it will help you reach the shipping threshold 😛
Something like the "Zooz 800 Series Z-Wave Long Range S2 USB"?
What switch models do you recommend, or any is good?
I love the combo switches for bathroom light + fan
Any of the Zen7x. They have two very similar dimmers, so see which one more meets your usecase.
Great, thanks!
One more question... Where's a good place to shop for Zooz? Amazon seems a little pricey.
Their own website https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/
They have sales pretty frequently, probably once every month or two. Switches will come down from like $28 to $22 or so. At least that's what I remember from a year ago, haven't shopped lately.
Be aware that fan controllers are dependent on the wiring for ceiling fans.
Inovelli made the best ceiling fan controller that you can't get, they claim a new one is on the way tho
If you don't have either two 14/2 or one 14/3 wire going to your switch, you will need an adapter in the fan that's compatible with the wall switch.
Some more basic installations don't break out the fan power at the wall box, which makes installing smarts a harder process.
Doable, just harder
Yeah nowdays it's hard to even buy a fan that doesn't have it's own RF controller
Going back to z-wave... Is that something I should invest in? I've heard that it won't be very big in the future.
Not like they can shut it off on you....
I know the google/matter fans say the moment they actually release something it will instantly crush and obsolete every other product and technology... but I have no interest in that stuff personally, and happy to keep using zwave.
future is hard to predict.
Yeah z-wave isn't going to go away, if anything the stronger competition from matter/thread will bring down prices hopefully
Got it. And yes, z-wave will always work, but if in the future z-wave is phased out, I may be forced to switch everything over to something else to keep things less complicated.
There is no reason to not diversify with HA really
I've got zigbee switches controlling z-wave shades with basically zero lag
Good point.
How is the lag on the zooz switches? Like what's the delay after pressing the switch until the power is turned on?
I've not done a ton of research, but all of the ones I've seen didn't have the fan controller permanently installed. It was just tossed in the box and you wired it up during installation
I just always avoided buying those fans haha
Depends on if you enable multitap or not. There's maybe a couple hundred ms while it waits to see if you're going to do a 2x-5x tap, but otherwise I think it's pretty imperceptible. You can turn it off and it should be pretty instantaneous if you want.
Okay. The Kasa dimmer switch I have takes a couple seconds which is annoying. I assume this is due to the double press feature, and disabling that doesn't help.
Sounds like disabling the double tap on Zooz speeds it up?
Yeah it's not that much lag for a single press on any zwave switch I've used, even with scenes enabled
Just automate with motion sensors and you won't even be touching the switches anyways haha
It's certainly much faster than a couple seconds. Some of that might be the "fade-in" where it ramps in, which you can also disable.
Good to hear. I may be investing in some Zooz it sounds like 😄
Yeah some lights don't respond to dim levels below 20-50% so the lag appears to be longer
Which you can generally configure minimum dim level
You can disable multitap? Hmm. I gotta see if I can do that on my zen34.
Too bad my power is out.
Oh this may be part of my problem. Will have to look into that too.
Yeah I've got a fixture that doesn't turn on till 50% and it'll look like it's just super delayed with a stock switch setting
I have gen 1 hues. Anyone know if the new ones dim lower?
They don't get all that dim
looking for a smart speed controller for an inline fan 40w
anyone know of such an animal?
wondering if an inkbird fan works with home assistant?
Hi so I bought a tuta ic clamp sensor and connected it to my power but literally minutes later it started burning and smoking even though it was still on any reason for this? I have already asked for a refund from the store I bought it from anything else I can do?
welcome to tuya
tuya you say
ah the old fire
those power things really need to be clamps, ive seen a sonoff one bust into flames too
looking at the inkbird integration it doesnt seem to have fan
I want to mount a NAS drive in HAOS. I found a couple tutorials but their mount commands didn't work. Does anyone know how to mount and also include the domain, username, and password info?
I tried this from one tutorial but it just says "Permission denied": mount -t cifs -o vers=3.0,noserverino,username=xxx,password=xxx,domain=workgroup //192.168.100.14/Media /media/NAS_Media
So... wow the new Hues get a lot dimmer than the first gens.
the rgbw high lumen?
I guess? BR30 rgbw 85w
2pk for $100 at best buy. 1pk 65w BR30 was like $65 at home depot.
Ah actually only $56
But still, no reason I guess.
Wonder how the power usage differs at equivalent brightness
I guess I'll slowly replace all my bulbs. Kinda tempted to go just white ambiance but color is fun
That’s so much money
They just had a deal
Buy 2 get one free on hue website
Prob the best that’s gonna exist
If I counted right, 32 BR30 bulbs in the house. Oof.
wow the color is so much better on these too
Why aren’t you using a hue remote with hue bulbs?
they're big and ugly and don't fit where normal wall switches do
I can, but I can also have a regular wall switch that controls them
with a tiny little delay
so it's fine
yeah those too. I have a few lutron connected bulb remotes right now
Eww
they talk directly to the bulbs but I wanna move away from all that stuff
lol eight years I've wanted this crap http://www.geekandproud.net/2014/08/21/philips-please-make-this-switch
that's also the last time I posted there 😂
I really love these inovelli dimmers I recently got, and they have multiple taps and holds you should be able to use to interact with hue devices
yeah they're just expensive and backordered
can you bind them directly the to bulbs if the bulbs are also bound to home assistant
(lol)
no, you can't bind them directly to the bulbs, not a chance.
I'm describing mqtt programming with a server.
I mean, can you use the switch to control them without going through home assistant, some sort of group association thing? or is that just z-wave?
You can bind with zigbee yes
It’s their version of direct association that zwave has
Endpoints blah blah
No. You require a server to observe the mqtt messages from the switch and update the hue as needed.
ok, that's fine. I'll stick with the z-waves then, I'm sure they'll be fine too, and cheaper
You don’t need an mqtt server or mqtt at all to bind zigbee devices
To answer your initial question
It wouldn’t matter either way
Their question was specifically to bind the dimmer to the hue light, and that's simply not how it works.
Z2m just programs it
Yea, it is how it works
You’re just confused dude
I mean, that's how the lutron connected bulb remote works
but the bulbs themselves can only be connected to the remote or home assistant
not both
that's okay, this will all be fine with zooz switches and hue bulbs
oh, I didn't realize there was binding at the zigbee layer. Neat.
Still, the specific logic you want likely won't be available from the dimmer/switch, and will require a server to administer the logic.
Like you can’t override zigbee binding with hass to only work unless hass is down
Once bound they just do it
So depending on automations wanted it’s kind of pointless
yeah
And there’s limitations which are bullshit
I mean, really all I want the wall switches to do is turn lights on and off
Like you can’t bind a bulb to a door/window sensor
any other automation stuff will be done other ways
that is dumb
Bigger issue with motion sensors where you’d change brightness or which lights turn on based on time of day for example
yeah. would be nice to be able to turn them on if hass is down but not the end of the world if not
it seems unreasonable to not allow binding between a window/door sensor and a light.
However it does seem unreasonable to expect dynamic behavior from a simple binding system.
Regarding the latter it isn’t an expectation I’m pointing out its limitations
And regarding the former, yep
I'm having trouble binding anything at all now that I'm looking at the zigbee2mqtt tab
experiments
Each thing has to support the same cluster and endpoint I think
I gave up after realizing the limitations and what I wanted
lol the physics on the ZHA visualization is so funny
whoever it was that said first gen hues had routing issues was right too. all red or even gray lines on the map
new bulb has a bunch of green
It was me
definitely worth replacing these. ugh. 😂
part of me just wants to get the pain out of the way. in another discord that's an expensive hobby and the motto is "buy once, cry once"
Sell the voron
nah. will sell the first gen hues though
and the lutron connected bulb remotes. they go for a bit each actually
Don’t you put that evil on someone else
I do have a bunch of stuff to get rid of right now though, so that'll make the pain slightly less
like a duct fan?
What kind of fan exactly?
a 6"duct fan
Like in a bathroom?
ive been looking at a INKBIRD IVC-001W
not sure if the inkbird integration will run it
its for an HVAC system
@daring sail So I've done this with just using a micro switch, https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8
So just on-off not speed controlled?
needs to be speed controlled
ive got 2 noctuas with pwm on it, they dont have enough grunt
My method is just on off, but that inkbird looks great, but I do not have experience with something like that
Problem with dimmers on fans is the starting load
Need to ensure they are inductive and not resistice load only for fans
think that inkbird is 24v pwm
cant be full throttle
will turn the extraction duct in to an airplane window lol
appears ill need to buy it and find out :/
I wouldn't bet on the inkbird integration
THe supported devices are all sensors, not control
i was thinking that with no support
Not saying you couldn't get it to work, as the sensors might come up
but it would probably be some custom work done
theres another system AC infinity seems to have better prospects
there must be something that will work out of the box even if its just a dumb speed controller
pretty sure MODBUS will control the speed of a motor
I was about to recommend them, seems some have the commands, just would still be work not out of the box. I bought a GE Enlighten Fan switch, which if paired with an Aoetec Multi Sensor, you could control a fan, gives 3 speeds, but would be just a dumb fan on a speed control. I have an AC Inifinity, but not the Controller 69 to enable BT and Wifi
was hoping for a linear curve so i can go down to 30m3h
with a 3 speed fellow the bottom speed it 100 ish on a 6" fan
yes, and the ACINifinity I think are 10 speed
yeah i found that looks kind of expencive for that souloution n its not garenteed to work
yeah 10 speed is what im after
be nice to be able to control that speed from a script
others might have suggestions later, I agree, almost want to buy that ACinfinity controller and see if I could make an integration that works, since most of the heavy lifting was already done. but it would take a few weeks for me at least. but looks like that link i posted has a script, it might work if you are comfortable with scripting
ive done a little
from what i can tell these are 24v pwm motors
10v mabe
be tricky to do that on a d1 mini
the d1 mini tops out the frequency and wont go full fan speed
i have 12v noctuas on a d1 mini its not an ideal solution
anyway id better be gone BBL
Hello,
I was woundering which brand of Air Conditioner is integrateable with home assistant out of the box?
Can somebody help me here?
Like what form factor? window? freestanding? house?
House Wall mounted
I don't know if it's the good sub to ask : is the schematic of the skyconnect dongle available ?
A lot of people use a broadlink bridge to control something like those
Broad link bridge?
Is that just 433mhz like people use an sdr dongle for?
And are you saying various window units are just spitting out this info?
Oh
Yea you need control
If they have a remote of any kind this can learn it
I have a Toshiba portable AC window unit type deal that I need to add to hass
Wasn’t sure what I’d use
So the bridge just imitates a remote and then has hass integration exposing that functionality?
Once you get a bridge connected and a temp sensor you can bundle it using this: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/generic_thermostat/
What do you mean pair it with a temp sensor
Like just stick a temp sensor in the room near it
Just have one in that room?
Ya I have one
Cool I’ll look into it
I tried the Midea AC hacs integration before and I guess it isn’t a model that works
Couldn’t get it to work with my Toshiba account
I’d rather not go their cloud route anyways
If you want to be extra you can use a power monitoring outlet to guess the state it's in
Lol
This has a big 10 gauge cord on it and pulls 1500W I think. No smart plug could handle that
You'd need inductive circuit monitoring then
Why do I need to guess state if I’m already sending button presses?
Cuz you can’t expect them to always take?
It's just if you wanna be extra lol
So, in theory, it should be a matter of a simple relay, but you MUST make certain that you respect safety design such that your unit can turn off for safety.
There are multiple ways to go about it
polling: you monitor temperature with the external sensors, and you turn the relay on/off as needed.
state_chase: You tell the unit what temperature to target, and it manages itself.
Personally, I would expect the unit to be such that:
AC <-> Safety <-> Controller
So you'd be inserting a relay here:
AC <-> Safety <-> Controller
|
Relay
Ideally however, the better design would likely be, but that's harder.
AC <-> Safety <-> Controller
|
ZigBee, Communicate Temperature, on/off
googles zigbee thermostats
My thinking is that it might be easiest, to replace the controller entirely, assuming it doesn't handle your safety cutoff.
There do exist Z-Wave thermostats, at least, I use one for our central AC/heat; there's probably something ZigBee out there but that's always wild west for compatibility so do your research of course. I've also used a smart plug, temperature sensor, and the generic thermostat integration with a dumb window AC unit that really only does on/off. I know less about controlling mini-split style devices which sit in between those extremes, especially when it comes to discerning their setpoint (as mentioned, you can use IR blasters to send commands, but not really to read state from the unit).
I am looking for cheap Zigbee capable dimmable LEDs in Germany/EU.
I don't really need fancy color changing ones. However a few options in terms of color temperature (or changeable temperature) would be nice as they will be used around the house (from bed room to work space and everything in between)
Sorry if already been asked, anyone have recommendations for the "best" Australian power monitors wall-plugs?
"Best" = cost effective/cheap, reliable, easy to configure, preferably local shop.
Found these guys, seem to be one of the better options maybe?
Tasmota ... those should be pretty solid
Anyone know if the Skyconnect are gonna support Matter/thread in a docker install?
#matter-archived or #thread-archived could help there
Feel like I just wasted a shit ton of money- got some tp-link smart switches and plugs and lights to use in my van for the smart features but they won’t use a lan connection, requires internet
So fucking stupid
all mine work locally, what is not working specifically with yours?
There’s no option to even do it locally, it requires an outbound wifi connection
I have a lan router in my van with its own wifi for it to connect to, but when I go to set up any device it just says “wifi required”
If you provision via the app, it might complain if it doesn't see internet access during the provisioning, I don't recall exactly. There's also a command line tool you can use to provision directly without using a kasa app, I never used it myself though. That would not require any outside access. See intro paragraph here: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tplink/
But once provisioned they work fine locally without any internet access.
What do you mean by provision
initial setup
Yeah I can’t even get it into the Kasa app before getting to HA
yeah they are not my favorite setup process, but they should work once you get past first setup
I can’t provisión because despite being on my local network it stops me without internet access
So I need to somehow find a network to do it all on first? Sheesh
try the python-kasa method then, and just skip the app entirely
All right. That’ll be far off for me. Thanks for the help
good luck
Okay I figured it out, slightly convoluted in the directions but each device provided its own wifi network I had to connect. My own error thanks for the assist
Hi,
I'm from the UK and I'm looking for a device to allow me to control some RF433 devices (a kitchen extractor fan, and a two additional extractor fans).
I have existing remote controls for these things that work, but I'd like to integrate that with the rest of my home system.
I run HassOS as a KVM VM on an Intel NUC, and I have a spare USB port.
Anyone got any recommendations on devices to add RF433 to this setup, and what the process is to teach to send the same things the existing remote controls do. I have tested that using the remote in the same location as the NUC does control the devices.
how frequently do you guys have to re pair your zwave devices?
I have two devices that seem to need to be removed and re added every few months.
never for me
My garage door opener, and the lock on my back door. 90% of devices don't have this issue.
I guess I should have asked in the zwave thread.
thank you for answering
I'd just replace those devices.
Anyone in SoCal willing to help me "Tazmotize" 3 Sengled bulbs and a Shelly Plus 1?
I bought a 4 pack of Sengled WB4s on eBay, thinking I could get one of my friends to help me. They're all too busy...
I broke one of the bulbs. Ripped out the mains, quite by accident.
As for the Shelly, it'll also need soldering. Broke the plastic housing around the program points.
I'll ask on the tasmota discord also.
I am willing to pay someone for the assistance.
I have great difficulty soldering, as my hands shake to much.
Quick question, does binding make zigbee devices unavailable to the server otherwise?
I mean, take them off the general network?
Use clips to hold components, thenbrace your hands on the table around it
zigbee, so far, never had to repair.
shelly?
Also, I've never successfully soldered before. Using my devices as the "Guinea pigs" is asking for trouble.
I want to fix them, not ruin them permanently.
I think digiblur is in cali you could join his discord and ask him
Hmm. Perhaps. I've seen a few of his videos.
Any reason you didn’t just buy bulbs with tasmota/wled/esphome?
Didn't know he was in SoCal.
Athom sells a few different types
I’m not positive but it sounds right
Trying to save a buck. (Which totally backfired).
It be like that
you can buy from the athom store on alie and save $
I don't buy from AliExpress as a general rule.
The hardest part about soldering is having an intuition for the temperature, but basically, generally around 550-600f
Be mindful not to hold the heat so long you overheat other things on the board, or burn off the flux in the solder.
that's a bad rule
Why?
Like to buy local.
tons of stuff is just resold at a huge markup on amazon from alie
Aliexpress is basically a more direct line to factory runs of the products you buy anywhere else..
If it's not on eBay or Amazon...
you could flash that to tasmota or find one with it already on it
Thanks SHS!
I'm willing to guide you through soldering here in discord.
You can share a camera feed on a bench, and I'll direct you.
I respect your hands shaking, but I don't know how much or if that's actually preventative here.
The curiosity in me still wants to try and use the items I have.
it is what it is, much better to practice soldering on led strips or something
Future purchases will probably be preflashed.
@frosty field they make a good point.
We can find something for you to practice soldering on so you can get a quick feel for it. 🙂
you can always set them aside and deal with it when you feel more comfortable
i've done that with shit that sat in a drawer for a year then finally i got it out
i have my old mechanical keyboard to fix with the new keys waiting to be soldered but i just havent felt like fucking with it in like 2 years lmao
Probably cheaper to hire someone to solder than to buy a good soldering iron.
You don't need a "good soldering iron", any will do as long as it's >=15W
depends on the size of the components you're working on, actually
Thanks for the ideas.
BIG wires, yes, you'll need more heat.
small components? you want finer control of temperature, or just be faster.
Actually, funnily, with tiny components, you need higher temperature on smaller tips, because they lose so much heat quickly.
there's a curve to consider
I'm still going to contact a few old friends I haven't spoken to in a while to see if they are willing to help.
The big soldering tips are:
- roughing the pads to remove corrosion and give solder surface area to stick
- using flux to help prevent corrosion and help solder wick into the surface roughness
- using the right temperatures, for reasonable amounts of time, not burning components
For smart nest learning thermostat when i set the temperature through automation it inevitably changes "smartly". Is there a mode or method to make it hold the temperature set by HA?
what is smartly, and what is changing it to that?
the nest thermostat changes temperature based on it's learnings over time
that's one of its selling points, however it isn't great when you're trying to automate the temperature settings
i think i need to use Eco mode
in theory, something is overriding your setting, perhaps they must be saved?
When I had one it never learned very well, if you’re trying to integrate it with HA the learning is just going to fight you
so just got a notification that a second dual tpu was sent, having already secured the b+m key does anyone want to cover cost of dual tpu and adaptor to secure it uk?
Anyone know if the m.2 ones work with an m.2 to USB adapter?
I have no m.2 slot to use.
I have a pcie ordered but ETA July
Looking at the aqara roller shade driver e1. Says it only works with beaded cords but has adapters for different sizes. Anyone know if/think it would be possible to 3d print an adapter for an unbeaded rope pull?
oh I could have googled https://www.reddit.com/r/Aqara/comments/rktgc5/aqara_roller_shade_driver_e1_working_well_with/
guess I'll try one
hm lots of knockoffs on aliexpress, can't find any US site actually selling these
Can you use that to open and close the slats, instead of pulling the shade up?
If it's a loop pull, I don't see why not.
It's 2 cords, but I guess I could make a loop of them
I just don't know what to buy here since the Aqara one doesn't seem available.
ah the aliexpress ones aren't cheap, I should know better than to trust the first price I see. that's just the gateways
yeah i just turned off learning. i think pros outweigh cons
yeah I have nest with learning off, too. if I was doing it again I probably wouldn't go with it but I got it a while back
Really thermostat learning is for people who don't have access to a much richer set of data to decide when and what to set the thermostat to
okay gonna try this one out, supposed to be the same as the aqara though it looks like it has DC power not USB-C https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801512085543.html
Does anybody make a version of those blinds motors for rolling bamboo shades? I'd need something that could wind up the cord like a reel
anyone have a recommendation for basic temperature and occupancy sensors?
Zigbee, and something from aqara
Or ikea in a pinch
Hi is there are some hardware comparison without "app" comparison? Mostly hardware is badly rated because the app is just bad. I use home assistant so I don't care.
Mostly I'm interested in two device. Hama Thermostat and Rollei thermostat. Try to figure out which of the device works better with ZigBee and which is more silently.
I mean the TV02 exposes more. But I think it doesn't matter because you control it over homeassistant.
Does anyone know if there’s something that is basically a rocker switch panel I could use to connect 12v loads into?
Not sure what channel this belongs in - but what would be the best way to identify whether my work laptop is on the local network for presence tracking? Please note, I can't use the ping integration as the VPN I use for work rejects local ping packets. Is my only real option the router integration?
I have a z-wave pushbutton that does that. Standard switch size. Don't remember model, I'll see if I can find it.
Controls our fireplace
it's a remotec zfm-80. old thing.
not sure what I'll do if it goes
looks like this behind a switch might do what you want https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/zooz/products/zooz-700-series-z-wave-plus-dry-contact-relay-zen51
Is there a list of the best devices that people are using?
Been a while since I've added anything to my home and curious what people are using for bulbs / wall outlets
Looking for either wifi (tuyaconvert) or ZigBee devices
zigbee -> hue bulbs but $$
Hmm was hoping things changed over the years, have a bunch of Sengled which seem good for the $$
anyone have thoughts on if a devices like this would work well? trying to set modes on my smart thermostat depending on human presense in specific rooms https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BPSBD62Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1USYAK243ITW1&psc=1
I don't know too much about sengled but I saw someone say they don't act as routers so they don't extend the mesh. Not sure on that, but if that matters to you, it's important
hi there
I'm trying to connect a Shelly 1 to my pool pump to automate it and I think this is now the 2nd Shelly that's died. I'm connecting it to a contactor which then goes out to the pool pump
Any ideas why this would be happening?
#energy-archived can help with Energy
oops sorry. ok ill try to delete and ask there
That's at me, right?
No
That's "at" the deleted post
For you... you need to tell people about your pump
It's a 750W pool pump, I'm not sure what other details you need?
Details of how it's all wired up I'm sure will help people help you
I'm trying to do a quick wiring diagram now
Hi all, EU people: Does anyone have Shelly Plug S on hand? How snug fit is the Shelly Plug S and CEE 7/16 plug (aka the EU cable without grounding)
Hello. I have 2 wyze v3 camera connected to my home assistant. When it was only one camera...all good. Now that i have two, i notice that one of them sonetimes (once a day) disconnects and i meed to reconnect them through the docker wyze bridge. When the canera disconnects, also the frigate events wont be available...
How can i solve this problem?
Is there a off the shelf wireless (Wi-Fi, Z-wave, or Zigbee) temporary sensor with a rechargeable battery?
Yeah, and I just found out LIR2032 is a thing. I have 8 Xiaomi sensors I can put those in. Problem solved.
Wow, that's nice. I should get some of those.
(the batteries, not necessarily those sensors)
I’m curious if they work well, but they are not much more than the regular CR2032 and my sensors eat those in like 6 months
Along the same lines, is there a good Zigbee repeater? I’ve had problems with range.
You have mesh issues then... mine are good for over a year
#zigbee-archived can help with Zigbee routers, if you tell them the country you're in
I asked in the lobby but I assume it was the wrong place, apologies for the lack of etiquette!!
I'm running into the problem of having to insist a guest download an app or visit a webpage. Is anyone solving this any other way; touch screen, old phones as interfaces or something to ease the convienace of granting light or heating control to a guest.
Any suggestions for a cheap entry level nas? Looks like buying some old second hand workstation PCs could work but I'm concerned about power usage and general ability to stream content.
You can buy a more recent (U)SFF mini or tower PC. They can use from 10w to 20w if you pick the right one. How much space do you need/want?
Nothing too crazy. Just room for 2 HDDs
3.5"
I'll likely do 2x10-16TB
I figure this should last for quite some time.
Any suggestions on a model to look into?
Oh wow, these prices are great lol
Nothing specific, no. I currently use a ESPRIMO E720 (G3250) purely as backup location (PBS and so on). Mine uses about 18W on average (15W~ idle) with one disk (well, SSD + HDD) but I'm sure you can get something much more efficient
Oh cool
These prices seem very fair. I got my m910q w/ 16gb ram for about the same
Looks like I'd be getting about the same PC in a different form factor
Might run pbs instead of truenas too
I'm finding stuff without a hdd for like $50. I need to look into power usage but this looks like a steal
I have a lenovo tiny thinkcenter m900 with i5-6500, 16gigs ram, and 256 nvme ssd, 15watts idle running HA in a VM and another VM running a dhcp/dns tool.
peaks at 30-40watts on power up, or briefly when i run backups.
60watt psu
I'm doing exactly this with a Lenovo m910q
Runs great
I want to put jellyfin in a VM but I'm not too sure how well a htpc will work in a LXC
I have pci passthrough that can leverage a video card for transcoding or whatever
So maybe
i have usb passthrough for a sonoff-e stick
i do the same w/ a zwave stick
Think I could mod this to work w/ 2x3.5 HDDs?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155438557969?hash=item2430dc2b11:g:7CkAAOSw5GRjqg3c&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkIosDwa1YaOyKALt6%2BvEwrQ7qq3dAj4vwYzhUNB1QPK%2B7EzlB7EavQJh5GaGNCFFfYxyzZnURRG1PN%2Fluh6erSEMQagQ7A4QaVTVa%2FV3BqnnBLm4cv1V9%2BG86D4N1iaLhcqPrRSbe5vUjkEX3qyxemPXQS41qpe3dDiChI%2B9tmH2vy2DNOK1oo4uS%2BmQ7WGRYA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR76W7srWYQ
I figure, remove the CD/DVD drive
and put a second 3.5 HDD there
Any write ups on using a POE esp32 board with esphome?
Why? What's your goal?
Show me the ESP32 board, no promises
Hey, did someone try the https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/HS2AQ-EM.html air quality monitor ?
#zigbee-archived will be better able to answer that
oh, thank you @winged knoll
anyone know of a decent fan speed controller for HA
Any board, I haven’t bought anything yet.
Hey. Big challenge. I have a raspberry pi 3b at a remote location. It suddenly stopped when I updated to OS 9.5. I have a friend that can go in and restart the Rasp, it is then up and running for approx 1 hour then I can not access again. During this time I saw that everything seemed OK except the Z wave addon, that was not running, could not restart it either. Anybody have a clue what to do? Hope I explain it and posted it in the right place? If not point me in the right direction. THX
You wanted the #installation-archived channel
THX
Hello I do have issue with Bluetooth audio. With Linux ketnel 5.15, my bluetooth is connectin OK, but no avilable output: Attempting to connect to B1:29:34:2B:62:53
[CHG] Device B1:29:34:2B:62:53 Connected: yes
[NEW] Endpoint /org/bluez/hci0/dev_B1_29_34_2B_62_53/sep1
[NEW] Endpoint /org/bluez/hci0/dev_B1_29_34_2B_62_53/sep2
[NEW] Transport /org/bluez/hci0/dev_B1_29_34_2B_62_53/sep1/fd3
[CHG] Transport /org/bluez/hci0/dev_B1_29_34_2B_62_53/sep1/fd3 State: active
Connection successful
other spikers works fine, connecting from Andorid Windows works fine
[core-ssh ~]$ amixer
Simple mixer control 'Master',0
Capabilities: pvolume pswitch pswitch-joined
Playback channels: Front Left - Front Right
Limits: Playback 0 - 65536
Mono:
Front Left: Playback 49152 [75%] [on]
Front Right: Playback 49152 [75%] [on]
Simple mixer control 'Capture',0
Capabilities: cvolume cswitch cswitch-joined
Capture channels: Front Left - Front Right
Limits: Capture 0 - 65536
Front Left: Capture 65536 [100%] [on]
Front Right: Capture 65536 [100%] [on]
aplay -l
aplay: device_list:275: no soundcards found...
OS Version: Home Assistant OS 9.5
Home Assistant Core: 2023.3.1
bluetoothctl version 5.55 and same with 5.56
ha sound info:
@scarlet badger I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
@scarlet badger I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
Why are you choosing these old machines? and how much storage do you require?
For reference, I'm currently building a 146TB machine.
They're cheap and should be good enough to stream content locally. Storage wise, I have used roughly 66% of 4TB currently. I believe 16TB should be adequate.
At least for a handful of years and then I can do a more incremental upgrade instead of dropping a bunch of cash at once.
are you familiar with managing parity, backups?
in what sense?
parity of what?
i plan to do mirrored drives if that's what you're after
im looking at truenas to run the show
right now i have automated and managed backups for proxmox VMs/LXCs, HA, and currently working on an rsync script to backup my desktop PC
I do need to read up on zfs
There seems to be enough buzz about it that it might be a better choice than ext4
different scales involved in this discussion
mirrored two disks vs 146tb array
requires different mindsets
i have a box with 6x14tb running raidz2 in a meshify 2 xl - https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/meshify/meshify-2-xl-dark-tempered-glass/ - but running a motherboard with a i5-3570K, since it's not doing much more than providing files inhouse, it's not a media convertor.
(The case is so large, because i also have a spare 6x6tb raidz2 for playing around/testing in the box at the same time)
Hi there, I just started or rather want to start with home assistant, but I can`t flash my ssd, neither a sd card with the URL link. I always get a big error . Am I doing something wrong?
I'd ask in #installation-archived - but when you do include what the actual error says.
yes. i'm going for budget/entry level nas
are you looking for a case to hold two drives + motherboard? are you looking for a stand alone nas, etc? NAS can mean a number of slightly different things
yes, 2 drives + mobo (and maybe an old GPU for transcoding video)
i was going to have it host backups and media
truenas + jellyfin (or something else) + samba + backups via a few methods (mostly just over ssh)
I got an old el-cheapo HP for my NAS. Seems to be working fine. 5 drives, plus ssd for the system drive
this is what im looking at...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225112666990?hash=item3469c2b36e:g:jfgAAOSwBv9gEcCQ
seems like a good sprice
~$100 for a system that is ready to go minus the storage drives
Not sure there's room for two drives in there, is there?
has room for 2x3.5
Coo
I really like sff machines; I have a couple of lenovo thinkcentre for my proxmox hosts
has room for a GPU too
Seems like a good box
i could put it an old GPU if transcoding becomes an issue
i took your idea and now have this as well 😄
m910q doing all the work
it's great
Yup, I have two of 'em. One for "production" (HA, opnsense, plus a few tools); and one for "non prod" (runs linux/mac/windows VMs as needed, plus whatever I'm playing with, plus being a standby for prod).
I haven't been brave enough to experiment with nas-backed stuff on the main proxmox yet, but I use it as a local target for time-machine backups, proxmox backups, etc.
from what im reading it makes sense to install things like truenas on bare metal
Yes, mine is on bare metal.
I meant using the NAS as storage for the Vms
that way, whatever hardware i migrate or change to, it should be easy to get up and running again
I backup the truenas config, but happy to reinstall if that is required, since it's got very little config
any suggestions for decent cheap storage?
what video are you expecting to transcode? or how many people are you planning on serving with jellyfin simultaneously? One person doing realtime transcoding can use older cpu'd without a problem. You aren't getting a gpu in any of these SFF boxes.
i found it far easier to just ensure that my clients could decode anything i sent them, 4k sticks are cheap and accept a wide variety of media
(with plex)
hopefully none but i might have to for chromecast
or is that an old problem and no longer an issue?
3 streams at max
$25-$40 gets you a roku/fire stick with 4k decoding
do you actually plan on having it host 3 streams simultaneously?
well if you are capacity planning, that means 3
the main streamers will be chromecast w/ google tv
if you are being cheap that means 1, and 2 people have to wait
the 3rd being an older chromecast
everything you've stated seems to be that you are trying to be cheap and you have lots of spare time to get it all working. If this is true, than yeah, a small SFF box is older cpu is fine. I used to run plex on an i5-3570 and would do realtime transcoding for some older clients without issue (1080 src>dst, usually 265->264).
I didn't transcode more than one at a time. If jellyfin allows you to transcode and cache, then you can do that perhaps.
A GPU will fit in this one.
https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c04802690
I'd be going for one of the nvidia cards most likely
so like the GTX960, made in 2015?
yeah this shouldnt be a problem. i have done stuff like this before in the past with bubbleupnp
i was being polite....
but im going to at least explore the option
but the i5-3570 example above is a true use case 🙂
so starting with the sff and cpu and evaluating the cost of a replacement to the chromecast vs time in the server
i just had to look it up, since my current plex is a 5950x
a media server (plex, jellyfin, etc) has almost zero cpu usage when streaming media that it's not transcoding (which also means lower power)
well streaming media is just sending a file, it's a slow file copy....
in other words truenas + media storage on one server
I have no experience with jellyfin, so not sure
jellyfin in a LXC on another
so jellyfin will read from a network storage, and send to a media consumer.
i'd really like to run truenas in a container but that just seems bad the more i read about it
so again, just copying files
I would have preferred to run truenas in a container, but I needed a box with more disks anyway, so running it native is not too big a deal (for me). Plus presumably having direct access to the HBA and NICs might be a little more efficient. Don't want to add any risks when using ZFS.
My truenas box rarely gets above 10% CPU. Seems like something runs every 30 mins, and a few zfs jobs over the weekend. https://imgur.com/IkqibfY
I'm running photoprism, which is probably using some
Hello, complete hardware n00b looking to tinker with something (hopefully this is the right channel!)
I've just got a couple of Everything Presence One's delivered (https://shop.everythingsmart.io/products/everything-presence-one-kit), and I'd love to hook one of them up to an external battery so I can fix it in a place that isn't easy to get mains power too. I've no idea from the volts/amps it takes if that's realistically possible, what type of batteries I'd have to use, or whether i'd be better off using the 5v input headers or USB-C input for such a task. Would love any pointers I can get without needing to go out and get an entire electronics degree! (I don't mind doing the legwork/research/trial & error, but having someone at least point me in the right direction would be appreciated 😅 )
Needing more power than a lithium cr2032 can provide during northern climate winters. Wanting to enclose an open close sensor with a AAA battery pack running at 3v. Does anyone have any experience with a small waterproof project box and a AAA pack that runs at 3V?
I think I'm going to try and get truenas working in a VM. It appears to be supported. The hard part is figuring out how to map the storage with iommu
And not crash the host os 🙂
From the website link you posted:
Powered by either (selectable jumper):
5v, 500ma USB-C Port (PSU/cable not supplied)
5v input headers
Power consumption has been measured at 240mA during initial boot and 160mA during normal operation.
so any battery pack that generates 5v output with at least 500ma of power... 🙂
at the absolute simplest, almost any "phone charger" usb battery pack that functions with the low 160ma draw. Requires nothing more then a credit card to purchase and plug in. no degree required.
personally i picked the i5-6500 (couple newer generations) for remote console options
Lenovo Tiny thinkcentre m900 - power usage for it, running proxmox with two VM's, HA & linux docker host running DNS/DHCP container - https://owncloud.dhp.com/index.php/s/vrmxp7svJLWpBVz - ~15watts off the sengled zigbee power meter
I want to set the switch on my "Shelly plus 1" over MQTT, but I can't get it to respond. I see the info in MQTT Explorer when I manually flip the switch in the app, but I can't figure out what topic and payload to send. 😦
Anyone?
Lithium works far better in the cold than alkaline, so if you're building something you can try for a CR2450. They're still 3 V, but 600+ mAh instead of the ~200 from a CR2032.
Or, of course, the battery box you're talking about could hold two AA (3000 mAh with two in series for 3 volts) or AAA (1200 mAh) lithium cells
my off-the-shelf stuff that is weatherproofed for outdoors and takes two AAs just has a rubber seal around the battery door
Does anyone know of a 240V relay that can be controlled to allow up to about 12A? I'm pondering having a diverter for my immersion for excess solar but I already can see my export. Is there a device that I can use from ha that could do this? 🤔
basically this without the power switch https://www.adafruit.com/product/770 (continuing my previous thought, not replying to your relay question)
🤣
Anyone have a recommendation for a power monitoring plug/socket? That integrates directly with HA?
I use the aqara zigbee ones with zigbee2mqtt and it works pretty well. But if you don't have zigbee yet, they might not be the best choice
Is there some (ready made) solution to measure noise levels? I could probably just read it out of some PC microphone, but I'm thinking more calibrated noise meter style
sonoff s31
Any Flic users here? Is it really much better than the standard zigbee buttons like the ones from Aqara or IKEA? Price is quite different...
Finally got my LXC running jellyfin to mount an NFS share.
That was a total pain
I'm skipping a bunch of security to make it happen though. 😦
Any gardeners out there have some kind of moisture sensing setup for their outdoor gardens? Beginning to dabble, and want to see if anybody has some cautionary tails to share
I had ordered the Homey Pro, but now I'm thinking of going the HomeAssistant route instead. I was thinking of ordering the ODROID N2+. It seems buying that and the SkyConnect as well would be a great route. Anything else I am missing, or anything you believe I could do better?
The N2+ is a fine starter platform, and will give you more headroom than a Pi4 would
Running on a PC/old laptop will give you even more headroom
I thought about using a NUC or the Lenovo tiny computers but I was unsure where the cut-off is between the two in terms of usefulness. I'm not going to be using it as a streaming server or anything
Well, if you want to add in cameras and do motion/object detection then more is good
Thank you, that helps a lot, you sold me
I moved from a Pi(3) to an ancient laptop (i5) and it was night and day
Having added object and motion detection on cameras it was good to move off of that i5 to something newer
Yep. I'm pretty aware a Pi won't be enough for me once I'm done. Laptops having the battery power obviously is awesome too. Maybe I'll go through my laptop graveyard. I have a couple that could work. Cheers so much!
Anyone aware of any known USB power management / suspension issues on HAOS on an Intel NUC? I strongly suspect that my USB devices are being put to sleep after a few hours, as every single night (or even after around 4-5 hours of inactivity), I find that both my HUSBZB-1 and my Wyze Sense (the only two USB devices) no longer have lights on, and HA doesn't see them until I reboot the machine.
I've plugged in a dell mouse with a red light on it and will leave it all overnight to see if that light goes off as well, but I'd rather try and tackle this now instead of tomorrow. Next plan is to dig out a monitor and plug it in to check the BIOS to see if there are any power management settings. Also, to check for some Linux power saving modes for the USB things, which presently looks like its set to suspend USB devices after 2 seconds, but they definitely stay on longer than that, per https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/91027/how-to-disable-usb-autosuspend-on-kernel-3-7-10-or-above . I can't edit the necessary files through SSH, so I'll need to get a monitor hooked up.
I do have NUC 4th gen and I tuned IT in BIOS.
"IT" ?
sorry I mean this feature to put sleep USB.
Oh, I'm not even certain that that kind of setting exists in the BIOS, but now you've given me some hope. I'll get a monitor later tonight and take a look. Thanks!!
i think but shure 99% it is called DEEP s4
it was few months back now mu NIC is monuted in wall without monitor stable as rock
show me your BIOS deep sleep screen perhaps I will be able to help you.
it is under POWER SETTINGS
Thanks!
What's the smallest outdoor rated zigbee or zwave motion sensor?
Sensor for what? Water? Moisture? Humidity? Temperature? Motion? Contact?
oh forgot, Light?
motion lol
Umm, I think Zooz made/makes a small outdoor motion sensor, not sure if its the "smallest" (Zwave is mostly what Zooz does though)
There are Flood Lights with built in motion sensors, if you're trying to hide it.. but not sure if any are Zigbee, the Sengled ones might be
Frankly, I prefer just using Cameras for outside motion detection. 🤷🏼♂️
And I have 1 of the Aqara P1 Motion sensors on the Porch. I just sealed it up with some clear silicone using a old ID card to spread/smooth the silicone to make it look peerrtty
Although they are pretty well sealed already, just a little additional caution with the silicone
I'm mostly wanting them on one side of the house along the fence as PTZ triggers for a camera, but I get that a fixed camera would do it just the same
Neat Idea. Those Aqara P1 sensors are pretty small.
But you could also look into Microwave Proximity Sensor.. These will work even through an enclosure thats sealed up (3D Printed)
I was thinking I could seal up some PIR sensors and run wires to a single esp
RCWL-0516 + ESP32 is an ideal pairing.. but they would need a power source, not great on power
You could do that.. and make use of https://esphome.io on the ESP32
Lol I've used a ton of esphome
Well that would remove the need for Zigbee or Zwave and you could get those tiny PIR sensors
I've just got this PTZ camera that can see like half my fence line, it'd be slick to have it know if anyone was creeping around the fence
I wonder how long of a lead you can run those from
I think the output on the output pin is 3.3v.. so calculate your voltage from from that
I have a bunch of outdoor cat 6, could stick theoretically run six sensors off a drop
yeah, but limited based on the available Pins on the ESP
Really they'd need to be like every 8-10 feet along the fence
Someone needs to sell rope lights with integrated motion sensors lol
Well you could just use a LED Controller with Motion Sensor on it.. as most rope lights are LEDs now a days
I'm just thinking formfactor of basically string motion+light sensors
I like your microwave radio idea tho
I could embed a box at the base of the fence every few feet and run simple 5v lines buried underground
Yeah, or run a higher voltage to a single location near the center of the fence, and then split the voltage from there. I believe those RCWL-0516 can accept a pretty decent input voltage.
Interesting they put out 3.3v even
Yeah.
What kind of penetration do these sensors have? Does it need to be a thin walled enclosure?
When I played around with one a while ago, I had one in a 3D Printed case of about 3mm thick
They will also work behind a light switch cover.
Maybe I could do fence post caps with hidden sensors
They are stupid cheat, like 2-3$ .. might be worth just getting one, and playing around with it..
It's like 8bux for 5 of em lol
If its the plastic caps, then yeah that should be fine
I have a bunch of esp8266/32s lying around already
Tho it looks like these will mutually interfere with each other in close proximity
They shouldn't, I didn't have any issues with the ones I tested out
But if they are outside, along a fence, surely that can't interfere with much of anything..
Alternatively you have the HLK-LD2410B
mmWave w/ Bluetooth right on the sensor PCB.
Honestly I could probably do the same thing with a fixed camera with a wide FOV
I think you might prefer a single simple PIR zigbee sensor and a zibgee white led controller.
cheap, simple, wire on the side, that's all.
Frankly, with IR camera, you don't need light either.
I believe the objective of @jovial verge is to use the multiple sensors along with the PTZ Camera. To direct the camera where there is motion. And most likely the mention of rope likes would be a more functional/decorative way of implementing the motions sensors into the fence instead of having some random wires showing or having to submerge them in the ground.
Hi,
So we have a new apartment, and it seems the electricity in some key areas for lighting wasn't done by the electrician as we requested.
I have the following setup in mind, one that I think can solve most of my issues:
-
A smart relay (which should support the load of an LED strip)
-
A wireless switch that can control the relay (I need two, one for each end of the hallway)
-
An LED strip which can be directly connected to a 220v wires
Is such a setup possible?
Where can I find relays/wireless/LED strips? (home assistant friendly)
A smart relay that can handle the load of LED strip? Idk of a relay that can't.. the "load" of a LED Strip is practically nothing. And most relays are often rated for AC power, LED strips are DC.
There are tones.. the Lutron Pico for example or even something as simple as a Aquara Smart Mini Switch.. if the relay is smart, it can be controlled by almost any Smart Switch.
- LED strips are DC.. 220v is AC. You need a converter. LED strips are typically 5v, 12v, and rarely 24v
So which relay should I buy? How can I know that a wireless switch can control it?
?
Why use a relay though? Why not look for a Smart LED Controller https://www.amazon.com/zigbee-led-controller/s?k=zigbee+led+controller
I'd look for one that accepts AC input, so that you have your Controller and Converter in the same box
Or you can look at any of the Sonoff Relays, or Shelly relays.
Hello, I'm looking for recommendations for zigbee downlights (3.5"). I run zha on a conbee stick on a home assistant blue. Currently all of my hue bulbs work great but dont fit well in the ceiling cans. I am looking at these https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Tuya_TS0505B.html
You'd probably have better luck searching for "Recessed Lighting" or "Can Lights" as that is what they are typically referred to.. never heard 'em called "downlights" 🤔
Or if you want to keep the Hue bulbs, just look for a deeper can light.
I'll check that out. Thanks.
Somebody has experience with a LOQED Smart Door lock?
or any other good solution for a smart door
The Yale or Schlage locks seem popular
I have a zwave Schlage Encode and it's given me no trouble
Thank you. I've turned ON USB power during S4/S5, but that implies that it now powers while in sleep mode, but I don't think the Intel NUC is sleeping because HA still works during that time, or at least I think it does. It's just that all of the USB devices turn off overnight.
I have HAOS installed on an Intel NUC, and I believe that my USB devices are auto suspending after ~4.5 hours of no use, or at least overnight. I am asking for help in disabling USB auto-suspend. Specifically, my Z-Wave and Zigbee support (provided by a HUSBZB-1 USB stick), my Wyze Sense USB device simply stop responding after some time, necessitating a reboot of the Intel NUC to resolve. When I check on the system in the morning, the USB devices' lights are off, and this applies to a mouse I plugged in to test this. Restarting only HA does not help, I have to reboot the hardware, which I do through HA's web interface. Following some steps here (https://old.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/t7pxpk/are_all_of_your_usb_devices_disconnecting/) and using the Terminal Add-On, running "cat /sys/module/usbcore/parameters/autosuspend" yields "2", which seems to indicate that autosuspend is active. I am unable to make the permanent change suggested in that thread to disable USB auto suspension as it indicates I should add a line to "/etc/default/grub", but using the Studio Code Server Add-On and opening "/etc/default", I find no "grub" there. I have plugged a monitor in and am directly interfacing with linux via the command line, and there is no "/etc/default", let alone "/etc/defualt/grub". Should I install grub or grub2 or something and then make the change? Is there something else I'm missing here? Can somebody please help me in disabling USB auto-suspend on my Intel NUC with HAOS installed?
Set up proper SSH access or use a keyboard and mouse and type in login: https://developers.home-assistant.io/docs/operating-system/debugging#ssh-access-to-the-host
Edit /mnt/boot/cmdline.txt with vi /mnt/boot/cmdline.txt. Mine looks like this at the moment
console=ttyS0 console=tty1 usbcore.autosuspend=-1
After a reboot to check if it sticks (it was 2 before)
# cat /sys/module/usbcore/parameters/autosuspend
-1
Tada. Not sure if this is the right approach but give it a try and please stop cross posting this
Ok, cat /sys/module/usbcore/parameters/autosuspend yielded '2'. I used vi as indicated, rebooted the system, and now it yields '-1'. That's exactly what I was trying to do, thank you so much @golden thorn ! Now I guess I just.. wait, and see if it did anything, lol. I'll check it in the morning. Thanks so much!
No problem. Feel free to keep me updated
Not sure where to ask. But can I hook any wifi speaker up to HA
I should probably use a USB stick and generate the public keys and whatever else is needed for proper SSH access without needing to dig out a monitor each time. Thanks for indicating how to do that. Your respond could not have been more helpful or to the point.
Well, all of my USB devices just turned off again, lol. I usually need to wait a few hours or overnight, but I last rebooted like an hour ago, and just realized that none of the USB things are working. sigh.
autosuspend is still set to -1! So I'm guessing this isn't a suspension issue. I also updated the BIOS to the latest version as well. I'm starting to wonder if the issue is the Intel NUC itself, though I can't even think of how to figure out if thats the case. Maybe boot to a Linux live distro and just leave it on overnight. bah. i dont want to mess with this 😦