#hardware-archived
1 messages Β· Page 8 of 1
proxmox config for me is this:
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback
iface eno1 inet manual
auto vmbr0
iface vmbr0 inet static
address 192.168.0.101/24
gateway 192.168.0.1
bridge-ports eno1
bridge-stp off
bridge-fd 0
tcpdump only show 1. on enp0s31f6
if you are getting dupes, something else is responding
There's literally no guests, and ethernet is point-to-point. Will stop my wireless (other nic) incase mac is stupid. BRB
Nope, even with wifi off, still duple
will wireshark locally. look at macs
very odd
tcpdump thinks it came from proxmox. I don't get dupes from my gateway or other hosts on the lan...
you need the mac addresses
root@pve2:~# cat /etc/network/interfaces
#...
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback
iface enp0s31f6 inet manual
auto vmbr0
iface vmbr0 inet static
address 192.168.30.200/24
gateway 192.168.30.201
bridge-ports enp0s31f6
bridge-stp off
bridge-fd 0
Both responses have same mac:
Ethernet II, Src: LiteON_48:82:48 (6c:4b:90:48:82:48), Dst: ASIXElec_db:be:5c (f8:e4:3b:db:be:5c)
And there's no switch in the middle. Literally usb-eth + ethernet cable.
will try another usb-eth nic
No duplicates with a different nic. That's strange!
nic is on the mac?
It was a usbc-ethernet dongle. Brand new
I just tried the usb-a dongle that's even brand newer π
:shootmenow:
so put the vlan stuff back in and see if it works? π
Is it possible to install a Zigbee 3.0 lightbulb in HA. I cant find any documentation on how to set it in pair mode
you need a zigbee coordinator to connect, like a sonoff usb stick
@tacit burrow stepping away myself for a short bit, let me know if the different nic solves the problems
Jepp got a ConBee 2 stick.........but maybe that does not support Zigbee 3.0
I've only used ZHA integration with sonoff-e stick, and it was easy to pair to an ikea bulb
afk dinner
afk dinner?
Please Im a ambulance driver with novice knowlegde about technical jargons π
afk=away from keyboard
ahhh............learning every day π
I guess its actually that the CanBee 2 stick does not support Zigbee 3.0
A lot of us use the sonoff P usb stick in #zigbee-archived
Itβs on that list
Cool thanks alot π
You can watch some videos or read Reddit threads and decide if you want to use zha or Zigbee2mqtt to use zigbee devices
@tacit burrow I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
interfaces is totally
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback
iface enp0s31f6 inet manual
auto vmbr0
iface vmbr0 inet static
address 192.168.30.200/24
gateway 192.168.30.201
bridge-ports enp0s31f6
bridge-stp off
bridge-fd 0
that's odd, I have both rx/tx on both eno1 and vmbr0 nevermind, re looked at your stats
Looks like I'm getting responses from both. Actually, I might downgrade to 5.15 - I was running a 5.19 pre-release
Still dupe
Could be your subnet mask settings, either on your router or on proxmox, definitely not normal.
they look pretty vanilla to me; and there's literally no router or internet etc
Dupes when connected port-to-port with no switch, same with switch
you don't have any VM's running, right?
I always use the old style iface config
did you install the ifconfig, it's not stock on proxmox installs
Without cidr notation
I install ifconfig iirc
root@pve2:/etc/network# history | grep apt
7 apt-get install htop
14 apt-get install iperf3
95 apt-get install ethtool net-tools
119 apt install pve-kernel-5.19
136 apt-get install iftop
397 history | grep apt
will try uninstall ethtool net-tools, *shrug8
that's not the issue, just was wondering if your install was done differently
it's new install, only since we were talking about, and the hardware arrived.
So like a couple of weeks
Install from USB/iso iirc
You dont have a second ip on the same iface right?
This is totally possible, besides the subnet mask issue
how would I have that? wouldn't it show up?
@tacit burrow I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
Am on mobile, later aligator
and "ifdown vmbr0" stops the dupes. But it really shouldn't be responding at all
you shouldn't get responses if you bring vmbr0 down
100%
there's no ip address defined then
It would show up in ifconfig or ip a afaik, theres several places where you can configure a second ip for the same iface
ifdown vmbr0 kills my ssh session, but ping still works
@tacit burrow I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
"ip route list" even shows empty list when the if is down.
Interesting that the ttl is 255, which is a routery value, not 64 which is a normal linux box
putting down a bridge still leaves the bridge root interface up
yes, but it has no IP, so shouldn't respond. It totally kills the ssh session, just not the icmp
you didn't add a static arp entry on the mac did you?
what is the output of ip addr
Nope, no static arp, just static IP/mask. I even cleared the arp cache.
ip addr on mac, or proxmox?
wherever you get dupes
just woke up, not ready to read the whole article you guys had
he posted the "ip a" output about 5 lines up, just before you said "mobile, alligator"
π
I was trying to setup vlan with proxmox (without success, even with "simple" config)
Now distracted into why I get duplicate response to ping from proxmox, even with no VM running
yeah but that doesnt show what i want
and when I ifdown the bridge interface the dupes go away, but it still responds. (shouldn't)
theres a slight difference
root@pve2:~# ip addr
1: lo: <LOOPBACK,UP,LOWER_UP> mtu 65536 qdisc noqueue state UNKNOWN group default qlen 1000
link/loopback 00:00:00:00:00:00 brd 00:00:00:00:00:00
inet 127.0.0.1/8 scope host lo
valid_lft forever preferred_lft forever
inet6 ::1/128 scope host
valid_lft forever preferred_lft forever
2: enp0s31f6: <BROADCAST,MULTICAST,UP,LOWER_UP> mtu 1500 qdisc pfifo_fast master vmbr0 state UP group default qlen 1000
link/ether 6c:4b:90:48:82:48 brd ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff
5: vmbr0: <BROADCAST,MULTICAST,UP,LOWER_UP> mtu 1500 qdisc noqueue state UP group default qlen 1000
link/ether 6c:4b:90:48:82:48 brd ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff
inet 192.168.30.200/24 scope global vmbr0
valid_lft forever preferred_lft forever
inet6 fe80::6e4b:90ff:fe48:8248/64 scope link
valid_lft forever preferred_lft forever
I think I'm getting one icmp from enp0 and one from vmbr0
enp0 shouldn't be responding, should it?
I'll capture both interfaces from the proxmox with wireshark, and the client. DIfferences were small
ttl=64 on original ping, and ttl=255 that something is re-writing the ping
back again to the subnet mask talk
OK, I have three packet captures: local, prox enp0, and prox vmbr0...
With 3 pings and 3*2=6 responses (9 packets). All with capture-filter icmp
The ethernet layer and ICMP pa are identical between the dupes. Only the IP bit is different.
only packet-id, ttl, and checksum are different
I think the capture on each of the two nics on the linux are the same actual packets. Have the same packet id.
They are. https://imgur.com/xJ9bwZh
So (a) where is the dupe the client is seeing coming from, (b) why does ping still work when I ifdown vmbr0
you uninstalled the beta kernel (or booted the stock one, right?)
Seems like fake-response. ttl 255? But same nics
your captures show ttl=64 on both copies
Yes, booted back to stock 5.15.64-1
That screenshot was the two captures on the linux box
wait your captures aren't showing duplicates
something on the mac is creating the duplicates
you aren't seeing duplicates on the proxmox/linux side, you have no switch, you are capturing duplicate packets on the mac side
if you run the ssh, does the mac side show dupes on the tcp connection? (and does the linux side)
Nope, looks legit for capture port ssh
so maybe we call this a red herring and move on
Heheh, ok. I can go back to vlan config. Which I never got working for no reasonable reason.
But... I ordered a new usb-eth nic, which has realtek chip, so might not have the issue?
my internet isn't fast enough to care about usb impacting performance too much
Any value in pursuing vlan over usb-eth?
is that just switching to a different interface and still single legged?
no, if I have two working nic, one will connect to LAN switch, and one to ISP modem/router.
i think we had the switch setup for that, and managment loops back into the switch π
I reset the switch back to factory/no-vlan. We can try again - if you think it's worthwhile?
The onboard intel NIC is probably better than the usb-eth realtek, but it probably doesn't matter, since my internet maxes out at about 200mbit, on a good day with the phase of the moon....
[ 2341.013015] usb 2-4: new SuperSpeed USB device number 2 using xhci_hcd
[ 2341.034083] usb 2-4: New USB device found, idVendor=2357, idProduct=0601, bcdDevice=30.00
[ 2341.034088] usb 2-4: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=6
[ 2341.034089] usb 2-4: Product: USB 10/100/1000 LAN
[ 2341.034091] usb 2-4: Manufacturer: TP-Link
[ 2341.034092] usb 2-4: SerialNumber: 000001
[ 2341.045137] usbcore: registered new interface driver r8152
[ 2341.047507] usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_ether
[ 2341.177485] usb 2-4: reset SuperSpeed USB device number 2 using xhci_hcd
[ 2341.228021] r8152 2-4:1.0: load rtl8153a-4 v2 02/07/20 successfully
[ 2341.257841] r8152 2-4:1.0 eth0: v1.12.13
[ 2341.265320] r8152 2-4:1.0 enx2887bada4591: renamed from eth0
well you get a nice long nic name
yeah, the other one was sh*tty too π
i think the basic setup is the same, but i'm out, timezones and stuff π
Hello, can anyone suggest a neat ESP8266 package for driving LED strips?
what kind of led strips
I have some ESP8266 boards knocking around, but I'm interested to see if their any products that come in a box or case with a dedicated power supply maybe
Just some WS2812 strips atm
I might upgrade to the SK type at some point, can't remember the name. But I already have a roll of WS2812 here
neat meaning standard power plug and a shell?
Yeah pretty much, like a UK plug with an ESP8266 inside would be awesome
I have some small project boxes knocking around here somewhere but it would really cool to see if I could buy something like that.
Niiice, thank you
there's are others intended for longer strips
nope
i run 100 LEDs on the athom one
With 5v and what sort of ampage?
Cool cool, thanks!
Does anyone has a tip for a nice desk which will work with homeassistant for up and down?
No but there are tutorials on how to add an esp to standing desks and add them to hass
So you can buy a known working hackable one
I have a GE/Enbrighten 26931 / ZW4006 wall switch with in built motion detector. Part of the room is obscured from the in built motion detector. This switch has the presence detection and light timeout built in. Does anyone know if it's possible to use an external motion sensor to reset the timeout timer like the in built motion does?
Nah I got one of those and returned it
Iirc itβs tied to the light and nothing you can do about it but maybe it has a parameter to change and I didnβt know to change it when I first started out
Woah. I figured it out. I thought of a test to run after explaining my problem and thinking about what @cold moon said. I set the timeout parameter to 5s (test) and while watching the state of the switch using developer tools I sent a Switch: Turn on service call to the switch entity. It turned off after 5s. Good. Then I sent the service call every 2s and the switch stayed on until 5s after the last service call.
Cool
Thank you for your time!
Yea no prob
Well, for #zigbee-archived you buy and connect a Zigbee coordinator
"all other" is a bit vague
Well, it's out, but Matter is the top level protocol, it uses other things (like Thread) for connectivity
The answer will be the same though, buy a Thread USB stick
Same goes for Z-Wave
No, and if there was it probably wouldn't be great
There is (for North America) a combined Zigbee and Z-Wave stick, and ... it's not great
do you guys use cases for your esp32? im looking to use one/two as a bluetooth proxy, but just curious if people are putting them in something
yeah, i just bought some cheap project boxes online and drilled a hole in them to pass the USB cable through
cool cool-- thanks
Good excuse to buy a 3d printer man
is it though π
Have 3D printer, can print ESP Cases. Also I don't because I keep forgetting I can print things π
i print those for nodemcus
there's tons of free designs on thingiverse printables etc for esp8266/esp32
oh nice, will dig into that
Yeah if you have access to a 3d printer it gets a lot easier. It was my excuse for getting one
Trying to buy my first HA devices. Looking to get some deals tomorrow on AliExpress. Can I ask what are the common uses for door and window sensors? Do door sensors make sense for internal doors, or should I get only for external ones? Not sure yet what I should be getting. I'll be getting Smart TRVs too.
honestly I don't even have a hub yet. No clue where to start lol π I just want to start buying to get some deals, even I start using them at a later date
pretty loaded question but it sounds like you'll be going down the zigbee route
so buy a zigbee coordinator such as the sonoff p dongle listed here: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/information/supported_adapters.html the dongle is around $20 on ali e
for door/window sensors aqara are a cheap and pretty popular option
if you have a reason for using the sensors on internal doors then it makes sense. like knowing when a bathroom door is closed
you can go kinda crazy if you have enough money lol
i'd buy an led strip or two from ali e while you're at it and maybe a zigbee controller for it like the gledopto (pro)
you'll need repeaters for a good zigbee mesh not just the sonoff usb stick and a bunch of sensors. most of us use bulbs or light switches but confirm they act as repeaters cuz not all do
pretty much
- Zigbee is cheap and if you avoid Osram's older stuff, Sonoff's sensors, and all Tuya then you'll be fine
Yeah my plan was zigbee. I'm not ready to decide on lighting yet tbh. No clue about lenghts, models or colours I want. I don't even understand what needs a controller and what doesn't.
Do I really need repeaters? House is not that big. WiFi range is good on all house. If Zigbee range is the same it should be fine?
What about the zigbee hub? Can that be any?
zigbee isnt wifi man
Zigbee's range is about 6 to 8 meters between devices
And sure, any CC2652 based coordinator
there are hard limits with how many devices can connect directly to a repeater/controller too
Zigbee, like Z-Wave, is a mesh network, they depend on having routers for healthy functioning
I know, but I thought its range was similar, since I think it's also 2.4GHz. Sorry
Bluetooth uses that frequency too, but it can't reach miles π
didn't know. Got it, thanks.
Not with that attitude...
how can I know how many repeaters do I need? And also can I get some advice on hubs?
we already went over "hubs" above
is the hub the "coordinator"?
yes
just for my ref and learning, is there somewhere I can read a bit about these and why CC2652 is the way to go? I don't even know what this does. Will this allow me to use the devices with HA, Google Home etc? It's just to try and learn a bit and not buy blidnlessly, and also not to bother here too much
esp32 cases - https://espresense.com/enclosures - project for this weekend, have 3 esp32 boards arriving today.... π
need to find a local "friend" with a 3d printer now
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/ why isnt this link i provided earlier sufficient? it explains why the chipset is good and various options you can buy with various chipsets
you can search reddit threads for which device people use and it usually is a cc2652 chipset as well
first you need to decide if you want zha or z2m (zigbee2mqtt)
these are drivers that the zigbee coordinator will use
yeah, that's the page I was checking. I just feel those docs are to techy already for a newbie like me.
you pick zha or z2m, then you pick your dongle or PoE coordinator, then you pick your devices
zha is probably more noob friendly and it's the "default" driver in home assistant OS
so if you want to use zha, either use the cc2652 chipset or the newer EFR32 chipset as talked about in the link above
they are using the new chipset in their new device. if you want to use that now a decent option is the sonoff E series usb dongle in the adapter guide above
damn, didn't have a clue about this. No clue about the diff either. Atm I didn;t even want to set up any HA. Was hoping to be able to use the zigbee devices independently or something, until I learned a bit more.
you can either do some research by watching youtube videos / reading reddit threads / talking to knowledgeable people here or just.. not lol
How do you want to interact with it then? That's the most important part to start with.
I just don't get it. When buying devices it only says it's Zigbee. I nver heard of this until now.
I just watched a YT video comparing them, but still not sure tbh
idk, having a hub and some zigbee devices, I thought some would be able to be controlled directly from Google Home or something. Even if over wifi
The #zigbee-archived channel is the best place to get help and guidance about Zigbee TBH
can I just confirm something about hardware? Devices only seem to mention Zigbee. Nothing about ZHA or Z2M. That means I can buy devices without problem right? I'll worry about HASS and a coordinator at a later date.
They won't work without a coordinator. So you should probably pick one up.
And buy a CC2652 based one
I know, I got that. It's going to be a while until I learn how to set up a Raspberry Pi, HASS, and all this coordinator mess. I think it's easier for me just to get a zigbee hub for normal humans that are not tech savvy to be able to use the stuff with cloud apps.
The downside is that the hub will limit your hardware options
Embracing ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT means that you get to pick from a wide wide world of options
that's the plan, I'm just not ready and need more learning
but black friday won't wait π
so I prefer buying devices now, even if I can't use them straight away. I will get the TRV system that will work within its own app just fine.
I would highly recommend not worrying about learning it all first. If you already have a Pi, install HAOS, and come to this server as you try setting things up and get stuck.
It will need a hub of some kind to do that.
I don't have a Pi, that's another hurdle. I have seen that Yellow, but OOS everywhere. Not sure if that's the easiest for me or I should go for Pi 4 and go from there.
it comes with its own hub
which connects to boiler. You need that anyway.
You don't need a Pi, of any type
Pretty much any second hand PC from the last decade will be better than a Pi
and you can easily find those π
hmmm, but is that the right way? To keep it on 24/7 in terms of power hungryness?
don't buy a power hungry PC from the last decade
I got a small fanless mini PC. Much more powerful, not much more energy. And it can run a lot of things which a pi would struggle with.
being a PC doesn't automatically mean it guzzles 1000W
I dont have any anyway. Just 2 laptops we use to work. I think it's best to get some dedicated hardware for it, no?
my entire network stack and nas server
Yes. But look in the Black Friday sales for something. I have one here which I picked up for not much more than a Pi and it's about the size of a max/plus/big phone.
sounds nice, might do that. A NUC and the like?
My HA runs on an old laptop, peak draw with the graphics and screen maxed out is 45W, most of which is for the display
I need to know what to look for tho, that';s the tricky bit. I'm trying to prepare as much as I can, but I'm seeing I cannot get everything in time as it's way more complex π¦
If you want to run Plex long term, look for something with one of their supported CPU/GPU combos.
set a budget first then look
For running HA - easy
- At least 2 cores
- At least 2 GB of RAM
- At least a CPU mark of 2,000
But other than that, get something cheap. You can upgrade later when you know more what you want and need after you've tried things.
nah I was running Plex in my NAS, but I stopped using it a while ago, so won't do. This is just mostly for Home Automation
More is good, higher powered systems can often draw less power overall, since they can return to idle a lot quicker
a celeron will be more than enough for HA
will any of those be really cheaper than a Pi?
and also, is the Yellow not worth it then? Seems expensive tbh
The Yellow is basically a Pi
yes when considering you need a pi, ssd, enclosure, power supply
And it has a Zigbee and Thread connection built in too I believe.
Yellow is $185, Pi is Β£40, there's a big bridge there lol
That's assuming the base level pi.
ah k
I wouldn't get that. It's also permanently out of stock.
i'd love to see that pi for only 40 and where you can get it
And it wouldn't have a case. Which is a bit more than a nice to have.
They're selling for way over double that at the moment.
I had hoped you were right that they were selling them for 40 but looked and got disappointed..
They've been out of stock for months.
also it is 40 pounds and I am in the USA so that would be more than $40
MicroCenter would be a place to get them.
But consider other options. They're nice with the small form factor, but not that powerful. You can get better hardware for not much more.
can you suggest something please? I'm in the UK.
I bought a MelePC very cheaply on Amazon the other day.
those are super nice
Quieter 3Q I believe was the model. No fan. It has Ethernet and two HDMI ports. And it's pretty tiny.
uhh but tha'ts Β£300 lol
There's tons of options on AliExpress, if you don't mind waiting a little
I don't mind, no. Just need to look how to search for the right thing
this one has been popular lately https://aliexpi.com/Ixm1
although might be a bit too much for your needs
No such thing as too much
I picked up one of those but it won't boot at the moment. I have to figure out why.
The J1800 version is a bit weak
(The one tinkerer linked)
here's a cheap one still better than an rpi4 https://aliexpi.com/yKeq
and you get massive discounts now with codes
ah right, that the wrong version with j1900
Actually, they're all a little ... low end
That's more like it
N3350 is good enough if the alternative was an rpi4
I'll take any recommendation from you guys, since I have no clue xD
does HASS really need much SSD storage tho?
32 GB is the minimum to avoid running out of space easily, but how much you need really depends on how you use it
I mean, min options start at 128GB
Disk space is cheap, it's better to have too much than not enough
less space you go more expensive it gets anyway
No one ever regrets having more RAM or storage space.
for CPU I guess it's just about budget, right? The more the better.
not really unless you process stuff
aside from the PC, what else will I need? The Z2M coordinator... what else?
considering you're power conscious that should be the primary factor
USB Extension Cable.
no idea what HASS actually demands
I apologize if this is the wrong place to ask, but I'm not sure where else to. Does anyone know if this lamp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NPZZ1JW/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza would work with this smart dimmer?
https://www.amazon.com/smart-outdoor-dimmer-plug-kasa/dp/B09DT173R1/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3H9IEPY8T994H&keywords=smart%2Bdimmer%2Bplug&qid=1668102513&sprefix=smart%2Bdimmer%2Bplu%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-5&th=1
I want to use them together to make a wakeup light.
Hey guys, unsure where to report this. Has anyone experienced corrupted SD cards that could be related to the recent update?
I have a Pi 4 8GB and running Supervised on Ubuntu 22.04.1 LTS, and my cousin has the same setup.
Yesterday he tried to update from 2022.11.1 to 2022.11.2, but HA never came back online again, long story short, SD card seems to be corrupted.
Today he got a brand new card, after restore (w/ new HA) it got corrupted again. Both were 128 GB Sandisk Extremes.
I just tried to update HA on my Pi 4 that has a 64 GB Sandisk Extreme in it (I've run this setup for weeks, previous update went well), and I think I got a corrupted SD card as well. Filesystem is read-only according to dmesg. But HA is online funnily enough. Trying not to restart just so I can get all the logs if needed.
What could cause this? Do you have any suggestions how to salvage the situation?
I suspect not. LEDs don't like being dimmed by having power reduced in my experience. Not unless they were designed for it.
Why not look at a #zigbee-archived or #zwave-archived light that's dimmable?
@cinder sentinel if i were getting one on the cheap i'd probably get this https://aliexpi.com/1How
Intel Core i3-5005U is the only one above 2000 CPU mark like @winged knoll said. Although I'm confused since @zealous dune said I don't really need much processing
I tend to budget headroom, on the grounds that almost nobody just uses HA
again, depends on what else you'll run
Also, like RAM or disk space, it's rare that you'll suffer from having "too much" CPU
if you get the idea to process video suddenly then it will not be enough
I get it. Ofc I have no idea what else I can use it for atm
that's why i said, first set a budget
It's nice to be able to say "oh I found this thing that enables me to do that. I'll spin up another docker container" without worrying about if you can do it.
otherwise we'll just say get a server rack
But if you were running Plex on your NAS, why not run HA on it?
now thats the big question
At least for starters. That's free. The backup and restore is solid, so you can migrate to something else later.
It's actually a fluorescent light bulb I believe. It's a lamp that's designed for treating seasonal affective disorder for my girlfriend, so sadly I can't use just any lightbulb. It has to be a specific type and I've had no luck finding a smart dimmable one. But thanks for the answer!
I'd have to learn how to use docker first lol. I've been avoiding it for years.
would that be sensible in terms of power? The NAS has HDDs tho, is noisy as fuck, and has no SSD slots
Believe me when I say it's not that hard.
Just use a docker compose file.
I presumed the NAS was running anyway?
naaaah I won't fall in that trap. It seems easy when you're on the other side. I AM tech savvy, and I feel like an idiot since I entered here.
you can "learn" docker in an afternoon
And #installation-archived can help with this.
I think I tried several times, but never managed. Or yeah I did manage, but had no clue what I was doing. Can't remember
it takes one command line to spin up HA in docker
not friends with command lines π
Honestly not being too gung ho can be a good thing. You won't end up with an unsupported supervised install
How about copy and paste? π
you're using tech savvy liberally then π€£
yes copy and paste the line from official documentation
the hardest part of docker is installing docker if you run some nonstandard linux or nonlinux
yeah, well. Tech savvy doesn't mean dev. It just depends who you're being compared with I guess
anyway. I'll leave it for today. I'll see what I feel confident to buy tomorrow with the deals. Tomorrow I'll prob be back for more... π
Many thanks for all the help though, really appreciated it.
Tech savvy means "not scared of a computer" and "knows restarting doesn't mean turning the monitor off and on again". But most importantly "willing to learn"
Hi all, I live in europe (Portugal) looking for switches for my home. Here's what I need
- Normal and three way switches
- Some of them will be dimmers
- Some of them will be for blinds
- They need to be cheap and look great π
I really like how these look https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004769723820.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.40fa5ddcTE0LFT&algo_pvid=6fe9632d-9818-4faf-a8d1-cff4a5eddf5c&algo_exp_id=6fe9632d-9818-4faf-a8d1-cff4a5eddf5c-3&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000030407334015"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!EUR!18.13!4.75!!!!!%40210318b916681177549816833e47e2!12000030407334015!sea&curPageLogUid=w4QKenNnRxSz but I hear Tuya sucks... π
sure does
Would also love to know in what aspects do they suck
if you use their cloud integration then they suck if the cloud goes down or your internet does
but there is a local tuya one right? or does it have problems?
if its local you won't have such issues
first you need to decide on the protocol
if you're starting out maybe zigbee is a better choice for you
My only question is coverage. I already have a mesh network (2 AP's). How does Zigbee fair when compared with regular wifi?
zigbee is also a mesh network, its coverage is as good as the placement of your routers
the benefit, each and every device is local
k, so I'll have one (Home Assistant Yellow). That means I would need to buy a second thing right? Are they cheap?
Or do Zigbee devices act as AP's to others?
yellow is the coordinator, routers extend range and strengthen the network
most mains powered zigbee devices serve as routers
awesome
Also: Tuya != Tuya.
but not no neutral switches
You buy one smart switch and it works great, you buy another one and it doesn't have any support in the API at all
I have some Aqara #zigbee-archived no neutral switches
ah less bad just what i look for in smart devices
exactly what i look for
zigbees are more expensive π¦
They're much better though, because they work even when the internet is down
so you don't want your stuff to work all the time and opt to save some money instead?
good luck
but if they are wifi, dont they work in local wifi?
yes if you make it work only local without the need of the cloud
the thing with tuya is... you don't know if its supported or you're prepared to flash custom firmware
understood
i have a few unsupported devices in Tuya official integration on wifi and zigbee
Are there any wled controllers on Amazon?
I just got a Shelly Plus H&T. I goes into sleep mode after a few seconds, I need to hurry to configure it. I am looking for an option to increase the timeout, but cannot find it. Can anybody help?
The device is powered via USB-C
There's arduino?
And nodemcu?
Do you have any reccomendations on how I could power ~450 LEDs or so? I'm not against diying the setup, I'm just not sure about how I'd do the power management myself
So with some help from the community i think we established these types of remote controlled fans us RF to communicate
Wondering if there is some kind of third party device to make these devices "smart"
Please DO mention me if you have any ideas π
I did link you to the docs for Broadlink π
Those are very good for controlling devices of all kinds.
Well thats how I would integrate it, but dont I need some type of tx/rx of some sort?
BroadLink RM Pro, for example, does exactly that
ahh the hardware is literally called that lol
I was thinking that was a "technology"
ie zigbee
No, RF is the technology π
433mhz interesting
thats what we use to use with long range drones π
thought that was only a European freq.
Do you have any experience with something like the BroadLink RM Pro?
Is it a loud/strong enough frequency to be heard throughout the house? Or do you need a device per room?
Quick question. Would you consider important for it to be fanless?
Yeah I'm still on it π«£
Not important no, but it's nice to have quiet devices. Some fans are loud.
PS @jagged crypt
- I put the new usb-eth back into the pc, no crashes yet
- Apparently there's another screen I need to set stuff in the switch to set vlan-ids or something. But I'll do that only for education, for now.
You mentioned your NAS was noisy, so you might appreciate it. But don't pay a huge premium for a fanless machine
@tacit burrow let me know how it goes. I picked up some esp32 devices to play with espresense which is current driving me a bit bonkers (slow day at work)
I've got some playing to do too π I bought a zig* coordinator, even though I don't have any zig* devices yet π And I think it's esp32 because that showed up in integrator
And BTW, what os is to be installed in these machines to run HASS?
I'm not familiar with any Linux, so Id like to avoid any CLI as much as possible.
If you want to run HA as a docker container, Debian.
If you want to start on easy mode, HAOS.
(You don't have to use Debian, but it's easiest. And it does have a GUI)
Probably will do HAOS. Really not feeling confident on learning Debian + Docker + HASS + Mqtt o all at the same time
You won't need to learn MQTT to start with, you can just blindly install it following the instructions and enjoy it working
I hope it's that easy π
HAOS is super easy.
do tuya light strips work with home assistant?
yes
*Some of them, if they support the API
If you didn't already buy it: give it a try. If you're looking at buying it, look at something else π
ug need to figure out calibration of espresense detectors, this may be a longer job then i should work on right now π
(insert picture of 3x esp32 devboards with blinky red/blue lights, all show a phone 3 feeet away at vastly different values in RSSI)
Hi. Looking for recommendation on a Smart Switch 3Gang. Not sure if I should look for WiFi, Zigbee, etc.
TLDR:
- Looking for a bathroom cabinet/mirror in Germany
- 100-300 euros budget but willing to consider more expensive options
- ZigBee is the preferred protocol
- Controlling light temperature and dimming is required
- Controlling/having antifog is nice to have
I'm looking for a bathroom cabinet/mirror with lights that one could control via zigbee or at least wifi. I checked amazon and aliexpress but pretty much everything that I found is not actually that "smart", e.g. includes LEDs that can be controlled only locally via buttons on the mirror itself. While I'd like to set it up to turn on based on motion sensor and automate some other stuff. Antifog thing looks nice (although having never used it myself I'm not sure how useful it actually is), being able to turn it on remotely based perhaps on humidity reading (from an independent sensor) would be nice to have as well.
The closest I was able to find is something like this: https://smile.amazon.de/-/en/Artforma-Mirror-Cabinet-LED-Lighting/dp/B08ZS9VX7L/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?crid=3R2XNXE98D9EN&keywords=smart%2Bbadezimmer%2Bspiegelschrank%2Bzigbee&qid=1667987933&sprefix=smart%2Bbathroom%2Bmirror%2Bcabinet%2Bzigbee%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-1-fkmr2&th=1
This one does not seem to have antifog functionality. I also don't really need the weather report and charging station inside the cabinet so I'd rather have something simpler.
Philipps offers a hue mirror but being 42.2 cm or so it's quite small and pricey.
Another option I suppose would be to get a "dumb" cabinet and put this (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09C3L3CR4?m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&tag=idealode-am-pk-21&ascsubtag=2022-11-11_fe6a23b4a6772b2a9a77e65b808d74fd83d478ef3e1ad6b4607c7b70aac78f94&th=1) above, the benefit I suppose is that I am satisfied with other hue products even though they are quite pricey.
Could someone recommend something? Or perhaps suggest some ideas how to approach the problem?
Anyone has the tradfri color light? Is it Rgb or a few colors?
I see it takes Rgb but I'm not sure if it takes any Rgb I give it
Yes
Colors are not beautiful IMHO
deep Blue Looks More like purple
Hue lights are better
will this do for HASS? https://prnt.sc/5RC5S8ggSQmy
I could upgrade the CPU if needed I guess
it's a miniPC I already own
That's slower than a Pi4
A Pi4 scores around 900 - if you use it, don't expect to be blown away
It'll work, it just may not be "snappy" - though for most automations it shouldn't matter
I'll see what CPUs it allows, to upgrade it
it should be cheaper than getting a new one I gues
nah, doesn't allow upgrade. Back to finding a new one.
Can I get a quick check on this one?
https://aliexpi.com/2XJc
4K CPUmark, 8GB, 256GB SSD. Not fanless, but idk
seems cheap enough. Am I missing something?
decent
what could it be better?
you told me 2K CPU mark yesterday, so I assumed this was great tbh
i did not
its decent specs for the price
if you think it's short on something, I can get something more. I'm not too bothered for the price
I mean, Β£200 would be too much for this maybe
that's not what you said yesterday
I just don't want to have to replace it in 1 or 2y
obv I don't want to overspend for no reason
arf
seems you're suffering from analysis paralysis
idc about the budget if it's the right value
maybe, I just don't want to buy things without knowing what I'm doing
yesterday you wanted to buy a pi4, any mini pc shown was better than a pi4
now you want more...
because I thought a pi4 was more than enough for what I needed
since you guys told me it was better to get something a bit more, I changed my mind.
don;t see the prob
then buy a pi4
omg π€¦ββοΈ
go and price out a pi4, enclosure, ssd and power supply then compare to the link you posted and tell me what do you think is better for your needs
available pi4*
or to make it easier, compare the pc you linked to a HA yellow
I said I changed my mind! I'm not arguing about a pi4 anymore. Just want a good miniPC that's not going to struggle in 2y
Without knowing what you're going to do on it in 2 years, that's hard to advise on
If you want to turn it into something doing motion and object detection on a bunch of 8K cameras, that's quite different from "just" HA and a few related containers
prob just HASS, automations. Maybe some security cameras. Not much more.
maybe it won't be good enough then
Motion (and object) detection on cameras is CPU intensive
You can always look into a Coral for frigate to help
i'm always amazed how much care people take in "future proofing" when they'll inevitably upgrade anyway
The thing is in 2 years your wants and needs may have changed considerably
probably not goig to do motion detection on cameras until way into the future. Seems complicated. So at that point, I'll just upgrade if needed.
I would think about what you need to prevent you being limited in the short term, and save the money now to upgrade later
that's the spirit
aside motion detection, is there something else that I might have to compromise on?
Given a choice between a fancy Intel NUC and a cheap MelePC + all the #zigbee-archived and #zwave-archived accessories... I'll take the latter
will I be able to have remote control, voice assistants, automations.... etc?
yeah, I already settled for that
you'll be able to have anything a pi4 can do
And more
no idea what a pi4 can do. But ok, I guess what all you are telling me is that it should be ok for now
Almost certainly
again: i run two HA instances and 20+ docker containers on a J3415 so you'll be just fine with whatever number is higher than that
The thing about going overkill is you end up being the person Frenck writes a post about π
https://frenck.dev/the-enterprise-smart-home-syndrome/
that almost everyone entering the space
they all get enterprise routers, ap's, server racks for a "stable" smart home
i blame youtube
I mean I definitely upgraded my router for my smart home. But that's because I didn't have a choice for automating my kitchen extractor and needed to run IPTables on something
i bought a Xiaomi router, smacked it with OpenWRT and voila
my AP's are also Xiaomi routers
Annoyingly 2 days after I got it all set up I finally found a zigbee alternative. But that's life. And now I have Unifi Dream Machine which is nice.
each around 30$
will I need a new router? xD I wasn't expecting that either
my "server" was 60$ second hand
No new router needed
you'll know when you need a better router
Just stay away from wifi devices
yeah, that's the plan
That's the easy way to avoid needing a new router π
but you're probably not gonna run 60+ wifi devices
it just dawned on me why HA devs recommend Pi4 as a starting platform
Because you can't buy one?
maybe, but more to save Chaoses of the world from the excruciating agony of choosing the perfect server
I think that's more the reason behind Blue and Yellow
Ah... pick an imperfect one and be happy you're sad
TBH, a Pi is typically good enough to get started (ignoring SD card and power issues)
Then again, so is almost anything that's better than a toaster
and then you upgrade once you cry
can you guys help me decide on some led light + controller, and then some sensors too? This should be easier... π
oh no, it won't
https://aliexpi.com/AWP0 led strip I found cheap
Yeah... you'll want to replace the controller with a Zigbee one or similar.
Then it will actually be smart
yeah, I was sure, that's just the strip
you need to take into account type of led strip, what colors and length
then get an appropriate controller and power supply
10m should be more than enough
just want about 2.5m for behind sofa. 2m behind bed, and around/behind tv
Magic Home is something that HA technically supports I believe
so not 10 m but multiple strips
then I will need 3 controllers, right?
oh rly? I thought those were meant to be cut
you can cut them and buy solderless connectors
yeah, that was the plan
Though I bought 20m from Meross (came in 2 10M strips) and that's worked nicely for me with replacement controllers
but you probably don't want to do that
I'd honestly look for just LED strips without any app control
Or get Zigbee ones to start with
gledopto does good light stuff
ok, I thought they were all sold with some sort of control
but I knew I had to discard it
just think about picking the right strip for your plans, there are many types
I was looking at their website, but it's fairly more expensive. Can't I just get their controller and the strips from AE?
App control. Also, cheap can mean poor colour mathoing
so... https://www.gledopto.eu/zigbee-light-strip-set-2m-rgbcct-color-change-pro-series
is the only available in their web
if buying separate strips buy from BTF LIghting
and it's only 2m strip
that's much if you never bought a LED strip kit
yeah, that was the plan, but the ones I linked were just cheaper. Idc about colour perfection.
not sure what you mean... it won't reach the end of my sofa
a zigbee controller will run you around 15$, PSU 8$, strip around 3$ per meter, connectors another 3-5$
you want to use zigbee?
yes, that's agreed from the beginning. π
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004681811810.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.782d38daWi03Vc&mp=1 these ones were Β£4 for 10m.
that's why
then I was going to ask about the controller aside
i think you're not looking at the price correctly
and that's an RGBIC or addressable strip which requires a different controller
Also, cheap strips are usually low quality, so you'll end up wanting to buy a nicer strip
you lost me there. Can you clarify please?
guys remember this #hardware-archived message
fair enough. Are the ones at gledopto the only option then? I just feel there's a single option
have a read https://quinled.info/
I have a Gledopto controller, and a moderately priced (analog) strip. The quality isn't awesome, and I do regret not buying better
Thankfully, I can just replace the strip and leave the controller alone
here's your worst alternative https://aliexpi.com/q5zv
I'm coool with buying a nice controller. But still asking which one. In gledopto there are many diff and I don';t really get the diff
as for LED strips: you need look at LED density, voltage, chip used and RA rating
you can go from 30 led per meter to over 800
I gave it a read yesterday and "decided" 5050 was the "standard" thing
that's the common analog led strip
i said, gledopto
I have a Gledopto GL-C-008P and it works really well
there's 8 different ones in gledopto
there's more but ok
ok...
Does depend on whether you want RGB, single White, CCT, RGBW, or RGB-CCT
For lighting you (IMO) always want CCT or RGB-CCT
RGB and CCT, yes
then get strips from BTF lighting
don't expect good lighting from those, only for ambiance
unless you get the double row ones with separate RGB and CCT
@harsh scaffold Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
Pick either the #zigbee-archived channel or this one, not both
ok, I deleted
if I connect multiple strips to a single controller, the strips will behave the same way, right?
can you clarify this? For the bed, I would like to use the strips as reading light. I mean, not focused reading light. Just ambience.
actually same for lounge, for movie time mostly
will they be enough? How can I know?
you won't know, its subjective
for me 60/m led strips are just for accent lighting
for real lighting i use FCOB strips
ok... So, I got 3 GL-C-008P controllers.
I'll stick with 5050 for now. I can always replace the strip, right? That's cheap.
5050 is the type of LED used
if its an analog strip you can pick and choose if the voltage is correct
LED strips can be analog or digital aka PWM or addressable
no clue what you're talking about, too much info xD
simple right?
yep π
this is what a high density addressable strip can do
it's cool, but not what I need.
but now you know the difference
that's FCOB right?
nope
its a high density led strip inside a silicone sleeve with a diffuser
oh right, you'll need some of those too π
Well, you don't need one, but it'll look crappy without one
I use some 60 LED/m strips in the hall, mounted in an aluminium extrusion with a diffuser. They're ok, not great, but ok
oh god, ok, step by step. I only got the controllers so far.
and not all diffusers are made the same
Thankfully there's lots of sites that'll bore you to death with the nuances
https://aliexpi.com/vbj1 is this the thing for me then, can you please check?
RGBCCT, 5050, 60/m, won't be super bright but will do ambience... not sure what else.
good
the price is night and day tho. The prev ones were Β£3 per 10m. This is Β£13 per 5m
Well, cheap stuff is cheap for a reason
previous weren't 3β¬ per 10m but ok
Β£4,91, true
thats for 1m
you need to click Emitting color and Length options first
14.69$ with my VAT
ok, if you get the "new user bonus"
aliexpress likes to get your hopes up
Any recommendations for diffusers?
Do you live in the UK?
Which diffusers look good / work good depend on use case too
Yeah
and the strip inside
For example if youβre going around a window outside, people will sometimes use led pixels instead of strips and put them in white pex used for plumbing to create a nice effect
Thereβs some pricey silica gel options too but they donβt always fit over an aluminum channel
Rgbcct 60/m under kitchen cabinets
If you get deep aluminum channels you can mount the led strip sideways in there and have a better diffused look too
All I can say for sure right now is - they were not bought Amazon or Aliexpress - can't find any record of them
Under kitchen just need any aluminum channel / diffuser really
You need to watch out for hot spots when deciding where to mount them
that shop has the v channel or the flat (non deep) channels
Ah just missed that singlesday for free shipping π
https://www.instructables.com/Diffusing-LEDs-Right/ there is some information here but plenty of guides online for best practices
that talks about "hot spots" and a few other things
save yourself pain and dont use the cheap 90 degree connectors. just take the time and solder them together or use jst-sm or some other connectors rated for the amps you'll be using
the man knows
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/397426163649216512/914682412099850280/video0.mov my disco kitchen i've posted a few times. i gotta redo it with sk6812 or something and fix hotspots
I was checking and the BTL store are giving me new user bonus as well. If not they'd be Β£36 per 5m
Is that really a normal price? I mean I can pay the Β£13 with the offer, but I really would think twice against a strip for Β£36
Hi! I've got a problem with my second Shelly 3EM installation/configuration. I had an electrician do the installation following the provided installation guide. The first one measuring mains on all three phases reports values correctly (clamps on all three phases, three phase breaker). The second device is measuring solar power and the numbers are off (clamps on three circuits between the inverter and mains, single phase breaker on phase B, VB connected to the breaker, VA<->VC connected, figure 4 in the user guide https://www.shelly.cloud/documents/user_guide/shelly_3em_multi_language.pdf). The reported power is ~25W when the inverter is asleep, ~100W when the inverter wakes up and does not follow the actual power reported by the inverter and verified by the other Shelly.
The price is what you pay for it so I don't see a problem here
what would be the easiest/best way to control a fan like https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/dp/B0052UA9ZE/ on humidity and remotely using HA. Guess I can simply jot in a Humidity sensor in the bathroom, (and add an automation ) and use a shelly, but Id like to be able to manually turn the switch too. (wall-rocker switch is in place now)
you really seem to be enjoying this π₯
Buy cheap, buy twice
We're not recommending things because they cost more
That can still be done with a shelly
All I'm asking is if that's a normal price for this type of LEDs. If it is, I will just learn and get adjusted to the idea. That's it. It's just confusing when you're seeing plenty deals of 0.01. I thought LED strips were a very cheap stuff to do tbh. Seems that's not the case.
Β£7/m for a good strip, didn't expect this
Cheap LEDs will mean inconsistent output across the strip - two adjacent LEDs may have slightly different colours or brightness for example
And, trust me, you'll never un-see that
we're buying in AliExpress. I think noone can expect or is looking for perfection here
you're wrong
fair enough, I'll go with that
chinese stuff isnt all shit, they sell good shit and shitty shit
btf lighting is the most popular aliexpress shop and amazon shop
same company just reselling for more $ on amazon
What's a normal price?
kk, won't argue what I don't know.
Because no prices are normal today because inflation
idk, that's what I was asking.
I think you told me a normal price before, let me check
$15 or less for 5m ip30 60/meter ws2812b is what i consider normal
$3 per meter you said. That one from BTL was more than double. Was it that strange for me to think it was overpriced? :S
Price normality depends on your financial and psychological situation
Have I claimed that to be a normal price?
here. I guess you were pointing rough prices.
That's the average price of an average led strip. If that's what you consider normal then yes
And if you want average type Tuya LED in the search box and enjoy
Or buy Govee, YouTubers love it
ok, so what you mean is that that's a normal price, but I'm paying double because I'm getting "good". Is that it?
You're getting: not gonna regret the purchase in 6 months
Because I hope when someone is asking for a recommendation that's what they're after
Sadly it usually turns out they meant to ask for the cheapest thing
Yet I persevere
yes, agreed. Just weird that means paying double. But that's fine for me this time at least. I'm just looking to understand the reasoning. Cause if I don't ask, after 6 months I'll be here again asking.
I will even recommend some Tuya devices I have used for a while
I see you don't get out much
Or you're in some socialist utopia where everything is the same
You can get a Hue led strip too... Probably not gonna enjoy their prices
I honestly don;t get the high and mighty attitude to someone that has openly said he's a noob and is looking for help
You'll get it later in life
I'm still appreciating the help, just feeling you're enjoying it making it harder :S But it must be me I guess, np
You guessed correctly
can I ask, how or what type of power adapter do I have to buy for the LEDs? Or how is it wired? Basically I got all these. If you could double check it's correct it would be appreciated.
π¦ i explained why it was bad to get the "solderless" stuff above
oh did you? Didn't see. Let me check, sorry.
those clips just use little tangs to hold down on the strip they dont have any copper so you get voltage drop and also have issues with data signal
and the connectors you have in the cart look like jst-sm or similar which are rated for 3amps
for power supply it's best to buy quality like a meanwell one but they're like 2x a "cheap one"
but they're less firey
And double the price
i said 2x a cheap one
are those JST-SM really the easiest thing? I rather avoid soldering tbh, not too familiar. And the SM look a bit messy.
but if that's the good thing I'll just go with it
?
do I really need a power supply and then a power adapter? Is it not possible to get a power supply directly to plug into the controller?
just trying to avoid some wiring
how come most stuff recommended in QuinLED is 2835? Isn't 5050 brighter?
I picked up this three pack - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B19KRPRC - of ESP32 boards. Wifi capability seems to be measured in single digits. Is this normal, or did I just mange to find crappy ones as my first cheap purchase into esp32 dev boards? (Was playing with ESPresense, a bust, firmware kept disconnect/reconnecting, not wifi. Switched to ESPhome tracking to play with, discovered crappy wifi)
you chose bad
yeah, i kinda figured it was a $20 crapshoot
that's usb/serial interface, that wasn't an issue at all
those two have on effect on wifi signal
its bad design of the board
there's been more than a few bad designs like that for various ESP32 boards, lots of them by LilyGO
the disconnect/reconnect wasn't a wifi issue, it is a firmware issue of some sort (possibly interacting with hardware design)
it could be borderline power if wifi is flaky
Not related to the issue at hand, and FWIW I haven't had any issues with CH340... it's only relevant when you serial flash the device anyway
what i make sure is to get a board with AMS1117 for the vreg
yeah, I was using a usbc battery pack and removed that after some some issues, running them on name-brand phone chargers of old (5watt)
it's a common issue with wled so i figured it transferred over
It doesn't affect WiFi signal though
yeah TIL
But what issue with WLED?
it's been a while but iirc related to flashing and corruption
serial flashing was straightforward with espweb for espresnce, and then with initial esphome re-flash, had issues with wifi flashing until I moved it closer to AP
I had this issue - https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/x1iiw3/espresense_issue/
you can buy esp32 with an external antenna design which works pretty well too
i havent been burned with hiletgo with esp8266 d1 mini and nodemcu on amazon so maybe one of their wroom32
is it in a spot where you could use an ethernet shield instead?
i'm just experimenting, already have my wife asking "so what use is this?" π
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086MGH7JV i bought these last week
i thought about just coughing up for simple - https://www.tindie.com/products/briancmoses/espresense-base-station/
(no knowledge, found that blog while looking at espresense yesterday, so not a recommendation)
those are mini d1 esp32 units
https://www.drzzs.com/shop/quinled-esp32/ i like these but out of stock
micro vs C - any "real" difference to worry about?
you can buy various models from him with external antenna design or ethernet or whatever
Has anyone bought a switchbot from https://ca.switch-bot.com/ ?
Just want to make sure the site is legit, it's a lot cheaper than amazon
no just form factor preference
board limitations are the same
like <1amp power draw from pins etc
thanks, that was my assumption, just wanted to validate
if I'm reading this right, I'm getting -80 to -88 dBM at 15 feet to the AP π
wait, wrong AP, it jumped
i had fun figuring out why my esp32 with esphome wouldnt work on my vlan the other day
turns out if you have a hidden ssid it wont connect to it without fast_connect: true cuz it scans to find the best ap to connect to with default settings
downside is it'll connect to whatever ap it wants to not necessarily closest in this scenario unless you lock it to only one AP in your controller (if your setup allows that)
What are you going to use the esb32 for @jagged crypt
$20 of experimentation with ble sensing. Right now, I think they aren't going to go past that level.
I've got 3 units, if anyone has any suggestions beyond BLE sensing
suggestions for what? other use cases?
yup
well if they arent working well on wifi with the boards why wouldnt you return them?
that's an option
https://esphome.github.io/bluetooth-proxies/ i setup one for this
other use cases are buy a pir sensor or some other sensor (ultrasonic, etc) and make a sensor for going up stairs or something
or reed switch for opening a door
or buy an led strip or two and control it with esp32
so "output_power: 20.0dB" in esphome made them go from -86dBm to -51 on the Ubiquiti side. From an RX they are -50, -45 already..... So yes, cranking up the power does sometimes help....
or crap, it worked for the first bit of time as they power up then horked back to -80
can I ask for some help to choose my Z2M coordinator?
Checked the list here (https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended) but unsure which of them works best/easiest. Looking for recommendation.
Heya. I own a raspberry pi 3b+ and want to USB boot from an SSD. Followed multiple guides but I cant get it to work. The ssd is recognized just fine under raspbian but when removing the SD card and trying to boot from the SSD I get "0 storage devices found" as an output. Any ideas?
Even if it does work itβs still gonna be a slow device. Iβd really suggest just buying a thin client, nuc, used laptop, etc instead
The sonoff p dongle is what I and a lot of other people here use and like
Will it not be a lot faster and reliable than SD in any case?
Yea sd is the worst
But even a pi4 with 4/8gb ram still isnβt great with hass and multiple addons (I used one for a while) so itβs really hard to recommend going down your path
Regardless my guess is you need to upgrade the bootloader on your pi to be able to usb boot
If youβve done that then maybe your usb to sata adapter isnβt a known working device
Not all are
I did some more research and it seems firmware on my sata to USB doesnt like to play with pi
and that I can maybe update firmware on it and that it might fix it, anyways thanks for your advice on maybe changing device from pi to nuc or something similar
will def consider this
I used a startech usb 3.0 to sata with a pi4
Idk if those work on pi3
Thin clients are $50 or so on eBay
Used mini pc for $100 or so, new nuc 100-200 ish
Used laptop with broken screen would be a cheap nice option
Built in power backup if battery still works
@grand solar in case you didnβt see^
Thanks!
Any Synology users able to offer advice on whether to opt for DS420+ or DS920+ for Home Assistant (and media center) please? Is the higher spec CPU on the 920+ worth the extra money?
Is that bad? How does that compare to a Raspberry Pi? I have one of Synology's older DiskStation models currently that doesn't support Docker. π
any good smart plug that's a zigbee extender? Want to complete my cart in Ali
Iβd avoid tuya
those seem Wifi too, so not interested. Any good one I can buy without thinking too much?
like a Google-like "I'm feeling lucky" button, but for Amazon?
Tuya is a βcompanyβ that anyone can go to and throw money at to help ship a device
Wi-Fi or zigbee
yeah I've only been hearing shit about Tuya tbh, poor guys
Not poor guys theyβve skipped steps to be where theyβre at itβs all well deserved
Worse, Ali express
no but really, what are good smart plugs that are zigbee routers?
Iβd ask in #zigbee-archived I only know of the hue plug that works well. Maybe the sonoff s31 or s40 zigbee variant
Aqara smart plugs have worked for me.
Ideally get one with energy monitoring
are they zigbee extenders tho? Can't see it.
Yes they are.
meh, just found they don't do UK version
Just move lol
The Hue plugs are also great if you don't need the energy monitoring.
I've got two Hue plugs which extend the network 20 meters to garage outside.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zigbee-Philips-Google-Required-2-Pack/dp/B07SLZVM78 also got one of these (EU model) and it's been flawless so far
yeaaah but I just wanted to top up my aliexpress cart really π
can't get them on Amazon
Hi hi, are these PSUs recommended? https://amzn.eu/d/4NjTB6C
these seem Tuya clones, would they be any better? https://aliexpi.com/tJZn
so if tuya is bad im sure the clones are a ton better right? lol
meanwell is the only recommended psu, everything else is basically "might catch fire, might not, but it's half price"
Lmao, ok I'll have a look for a meanwell one
Buy it's right the first time I guess
I'm looking to drive a maximum of 300 sk6812 leds
From my googling I think 100w should cover it
well idk WHY Tuya is bad.
What about MOES wall sockets?
jump to #zigbee-archived and ask for hardware recs specifically for that
more eyes on it
10amp is enough for 5v 300 leds
powering on each side and maybe in the middle if you're wanting it to be 100% brightness or something but leds will die faster that way
well you dont want to run psu at max, more like 80% so maybe 10amp is cutting it close but that's what i use for 300leds 5v strips. i also dont keep them at 100% brightness tho
Hey, I made a bunch of checks regarding my SSD and decided to try and boot just straight raspbian from my SSD. Flashed in the same way as I flashed HAS and it booted no problem. When back and flashed home assistant again and same issue, refusing to boot. Why could it be that it works with raspbian and not home assistant?
No idea
Alright, seems very strange to me that it works on another OS. Kinda seems like the issue is not really the ssd or adapter
Are you flashing the rpi image specifically?
(Or whatever your respective pi model is)
Yeah
doesn't HAOS flash eufi boot code?
nevermind, looks like pi4 does eufi
anyways, back to signal strength on esp32 boards. The board itself reports a -48db rx, the AP is the one reporting crappy rx. Which i assume means transmit ability on the built in antenna is bad. So wasn't sure what's normal for this.
-46dBm is what i get with an external antenna attached to an esp32 like 5 feet away from an AP
esp8266 with built-in "antenna" like 10 feet away but at a bad angle from radiation pattern from the ap -54dBm
-25db at ~1ft reported from ESPhome sensor, Ubiquiti nanohd reports -65db
20hz band 2.4ghz
Hello, does anyone know if this smart plug can be added to HA?
https://smart.tellur.com/electricity/wifi-ac-plug-ii/
Itβs probably something else under the covers
The app screens look an awful lot like the Tuya SmartLife app
Which means that it would work with the Tuya integration; just make sure you use the Tuya SmartLife app to add the smart plug
I've had problems with other Tuya variants (Gosund, for example) not working when paired with the Gosund app but working fine when paired with the SmartLife app
So i need to add it to the tuya app (or tellur variant ) and then connect it to HA?
try to not go with tuya, they mostly suck
it's inexpensive?
it connects to the cloud. it makes manufacturers wet dreams come true by providing users data via the cloud. you pay less but you also pay with your privacy in a sense
https://www.teslasmart.com/tesla-smart-plug what about this
I am not sure how to identify bad plug and good plug
good plug = everything zigbee & everything zwave
bad plug = wifi most of the time
I'd strive to keep simple things (plugs, lights) out of my wifi network anyways
oh, but i need something extra to connect with zigbbe or zwave right?
I have old mini desktop pc with docker
If it is homekit certified it's almost always safe to go with it they also work local
yes you will need a stick to talk zwave or zigbee
if you insist on wifi I'd look out for homekit compatible devices
how can i find if something is homekit certified?
yeh definitely integrate those with only the homekit controller integration, never use the tuya app
you will also find devices for homekit and matter, so its no exclusive thing
and what about sonoff products?
With care
Some Sonoff stuff is good, some is ... not
Their Zigbee sensors seem to be mostly not
The power rating on their plugs I've heard is optimistic
I'm gonna let it go through my head, thanks for help
Ciao
Keen to know too. Price seems good.
Hello,
I have been trying for a long time to solve a problem that I can't see the light.
Let's see if you can help me.
I have a two ip cameras one with the range 192.168.0.x and the other one by 192.168.10.x
The home assistant works by cable with the 192.168.0.x and I have configured it by wifi with the 192.168.10.x network.
What I want is that it can access to the two ip cameras, by onvif protocol, one for each different network.
Is it possible?
Now I have working the one that is in the same network of HA by cable, but the other one can not find it.
Can you help me to make the 192.168.10.x network also work by HA to see the other camera?
thank you very much
The correct solution here is to have your router handle routing to the WiFi network
double nat?
the issue is that from the laptop I can see the 2 networks, but these cameras are not seen by HA when trying to access it by onvif.
I think that I have not configured properly something of the HA wifi network.
Is HA connected to both the wired and WiFi networks?
yes
Can you ping the cameras from HA?
how do i ping from HA supervisor in intel nuc?
ping?
Use the SSH add-on
wait for me to add a sensor with the camera ip and test it. I thought there would be some instruction to test it without creating the sensor.
I have pinged from ssh and it does not ping the camera. I have something wrong with the wifi configuration on the HA.
Can you ping it from other devices connected to the WiFi?
when you configure the wifi by HA, do i have to assign an ip in the ipv4 section of the wifi?
does it not overwrite the one configured in the wired network section?
does not ping any device on the wifi network.
@trail verge When using Discord's Reply feature it defaults to pinging the person you reply to, which can get frustrating for the target. Use Shift + click on the Reply option, or click @ ON to @ OFF to stop this - on the right side of the compose bar.
You have to change this every time (thank the Discord devs for that).
Does a smart thermostat, like the nest or the ecobee, but without the need for a cloud, exist?
Why the confusion? I want a thermostat that looks like the a nest or ecobee but that does not need to connect into a cloud and can be controlled completely locally.
It's working for me! thank you all very much.
It was that I was missing assign ip inside the configuration in the wifi part.
your wording didnt make sense
you can buy zigbee or zwave thermostats
or you can use the ecobee connected to home assistant via homekit protocol
which is completely local
yeah auto correct fucked me
ohh nice
auto incorrectn't
I still need to cloud to connect new devices via the app right? That kinda bothers me but at least the integration is local.
No
The ecobee app or hass app?
Ecobee app isnβt needed if you use hass
Is every ecobee its own device and can be added into HA with the HomeKit Controller? I never need to register that thing in any app or cloud?
I am asking because some smart thermostats use a bridge if you got more rooms they all connect to the bridge and you need to connect them to it via the app (like the tado stuff)
nvm sadly ecobee isnt available in germany but I now know that all homekit compatible devices use local communication - I was unaware of this (never used anything related to homekit)
So I know what to look for
If paired directly to hass not if paired to HomeKit with one of their bridge devices
Yes as I understand it, with the integration HA just pretends to be a HomeKit bridge right?
Creates one yea
Has anyone been able to add the Leviton Wifi switches? I added the information found here:
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/decora_wifi/ but it didn't seem to do much of anything.
Anyone know how to convert a bootable USB key into an ISO image? Received windows 11 with my new proxmox box, and want to install it as a guest VM.
Maybe diskutility will do the job, sec
I am looking for some cheap temperature sensors (maybe wifi) to control heaters. Anyone have any advice?
If you already have, or are planning to get into, Zigbee then the Aqara sensors are cheap and work well
Does any zigbee dock works well with them?
Well, if you've got a branded Zigbee hub I'd doubt it, but if you're using ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT then yes
Is Zigbee2MQTT a dongle?
There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:
zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended (though the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset), but there are other options including the CC2652 based sticks. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented.
Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively. As of 1.15 has a native UI, and it also uses MQTT for control and configuration. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the recommended option being the [CC2652 based sticks](#zigbee-archived message). If you want to use an EmberZNet stick see this issue. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and adding unsupported devices is also documented.
deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are supported. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
No βοΈ
Ok. So once its on Home Assistant and i have it on a Rasp Pi i just need a Dongle. If so, any advice?
Buy something CC2652 based. This list is a good one, both Tube and Electrolama have been proven to have excellent customer service. The current generation of EZSP sticks (see here for some) are also a good choice for ZHA.
Anything CC2530 or CC2531 based should be avoided - they're old, slow, and only suitable for a dozen or so devices. The Sonoff ZBbridge isn't advised since it uses WiFi (built in interference causing stability/reliability issues), and the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset so should be avoided.
Finally, the ConBee range are fine with deCONZ, but experience with ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT appears to be mixed.
Is the Zeegbee range good?
About 8 to 10 meters between devices, depending on many factors - maybe less, maybe more
It's a mesh network (see the pinned messages in #zigbee-archived) so the functional range of the mesh is much more
If i have a dongle, then a divice 2 metters from the dongle and another device 2 metters from the 1rst device, the second device has signal because of the first, or the signal use is always from the dongle?
If the intermediary device is a Zigbee router then it may use that intermediate device - or it may go direct
It's entirely up to a device how it connects to the mesh, most will tend to prefer going direct if the signal is "good enough", though what each manufacturer calls "good" varies, and isn't documented
What would you advice me to connect several temperature sensors. A dongle on the raspberry pi or a Zegbee router?
Well, without the "dongle" - the coordinator - you don't have a Zigbee mesh
You need exactly one of those for any mesh
You will need some Zigbee routers - exactly how many depends on how many end devices (mostly battery powered sensors) you have, and where they are, and what your house is made of
Thank you!
Hi, do you know if Appartme APRM-04-001 works with HomeAssistant?
It seems to be Zigbee? If so it should work with either ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT - though you may need to add support yourself
It's a rebrand of an existing one so shouldn't be hard