#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 5 of 1
Are you using ZHA or MQTT? Not sure if it makes a difference with the types of Shades you're using, I personally do not have experience with MQTT.
I guess there's a very limited subset of devices that work better with or only with mqqt.
Might be worth taking a look there to see if your shades are listed and if they work better with Zha or MQTT.
I'm also quite knew myself, learning a lot of this recently. But basically there are two methods of controlling zigbee devices with home assistant, Zha being the officially supported one and mqqt being a community methodology. Zha is apparently a little bit simpler, but MQTT supports slightly more devices and in some cases with more functionality.
If there are any veterans in the channel, please feel free to jump in and correct me if anything I'm saying is off the mark.
Hm, so looks like they do work with both ZHA and MQTT.
What really confuses me is that my existing 2 blinds "lost" their commands
I feel like I had something similar happen when I was trying to pair an Aqara device recently.
Both of the device I was trying to pair and a pre-existing, already successfully paired device both were suddenly unknown.
action:
- device_id: ab7e28e9187dd96afe663042e1c065cb
domain: cover
entity_id: cover.ikea_of_sweden_fyrtur_block_out_roller_blind_cover
type: stop
but the UX doesn't say anything with "stop" but only Unknown
Whereas it previously did say Stop
If it isn't too much of a pain in the ass, I would try completely removing all of your blinds and any automations or scripts that they're included in and then try to repair them.
I will do so now. Stay tuned
I feel like I have read that sometimes leaving behind automations or scripts that include devices you have removed can make repairing them problematic, I might be wrong though.
I had a zigbee light bulb recently that was giving me trouble, and removing leftover stuff it was previously included in fixed my issues when trying to repair it.
I removed all my IKEA devices (two repeaters, 3 remotes and 3 blinds) and some of them went into pairing mode. Still when I did a search for new zigbee devices only one went beyond the interview and got green, two others got stuck in green state
"Starting Interview"...
Not sure it matters but what hardware are you using, what is Home Assistant installed and what's your Zigbee controller?
M1 Mac running UTM and my controller is the recommended CC1352 chip in an 3D printed ethernet enclosure
Now my IKEA remote successfully paired to green state but still said "unknown"
I guess I go back to my IKEA gateway (which ran all three blinds+remotes) just fine via HA
Ok, stupid but with the IKEA hub everything's fine
Hey all, I am having an issue with my 3ways switch setup. I have then working fine except when I use one of the non-smart switches to turn on the lights it is now reversed in home assistant.
its like the state isn't registering on the smart switches
these used to work fine before upgrading tasmota to the latest.
Hi. Im running proxmox on a mini asus pc and have some problems with high temperature on ssd m2 when turning on home assistant. Everything else works fine but when I turn on the VM with home assistant, the ssd temperature goes all the way up to 80 degrees celsius and stays there. I have a kingston snvs250g disc.
hello I bought govee 5075 and tplink ub500 to add bluetooth to my home assistant but Im dont know how to add usb to my home assistant
Im using HA vm, docker 20.10.17, hassos 9.2
Plug it in?
What VM platform?
Ultimately, plug it into the host, pass it to the VM guest, done
My host for vm is Ubuntu with Qemu virtual machine - so i downloaded ready VM and ran it under virtual machine manager
If you're using the UI there should be an option there to pass the device through
The qm commands in https://pve.proxmox.com/wiki/USB_Devices_in_Virtual_Machines should work too
thank you
that is what i was looking for
I'd be shocked if the UI in Ubuntu doesn't make it point and click, but ... the command line will "just work"
Do you guys have any recommendation for sensors to check moisture of soil?
Only ones I have tried are the Xiaomi ones and they feel a bit hit or miss. Sometimes they would show sensible readings, but a fully soaked pot would still sometimes show ~20% moisture. You could also look into the more DYI approach. https://www.mysensors.org/ has something for this, as does ESPHome (e.g. https://esphome.io/components/sensor/smt100.html)
Hey hey are the someone that has experiences with the sonoff nspanel? 🤔
why?
Hello guys, Im looking for device that could replace my dear TP-Link HS110 and TP-Link HS100, both are EOL and Im not able to buy them anymore. Those 2 work great with HA and HS110 shows electricity usage etc. Please be so kind and share what is you setup to use smart plug (what are current brands and models) to connect to HA
from your current/last experience
I bought recently gosund ep2 but they dont talk to HA, I read that Gosund SP111 after flashing is usable with HA but flashing firmware on smart plug seems to be wrong direction to me
there must be some devices that you like, you use and are user friendly 🙂
Got Tasmota on mine and wunder if I could go ESPhome just OTA 🤔🤔
Should be able to. You might need to flash tasmota-lite first though to free up some space (or I suppose a basic ESPHome build that includes only your WiFi info, OTA, and a fallback AP)
worked for all my tasmota devices, like tediore you need to flash tasmoata lite or i just flashed an empty epshome build without any sensors just wifi then updating it in esphome with all sensors, etcx
Thanks
Can someone recommend some cheap led strips (if possible addressable) compatible with home assistant? I am also open for diy projects regarding this.
govee or an ESP8266 running WLED
Govee integration is currently cloud only, but they released a local API recently, so it shouldn't be long till a new integration pops up
Could anyone recommend a cheap board for my CM4 while I wait for HM yellow to arrive.
Hello,
I'm looking for an illumination solution for my house, the requirements should be:
- support CCT ( adjusting the color temperature)
- dimable
- can be integrated in HA
- at least 1600lm
- dimensions around 30x30 cm or bigger
- preferably not to empty my bank account
Is there any "holly Gral" that will satisfy all these requirements?
What country?
I'm also pretty sure that Hue's highest output bulb will do that kind of light level, and will tick almost all the other options
The Hue is available in my country but now I have some square dumb Led panels and I would like to keep this look but the Hue Surimu is kinda expensive ( around 200 Euro) and I need 3 of them
Ikea Tradfri do some LED panels, not sure what their output is
Tradfri can be integrated in HA?
They're Zigbee, so trivially so
Oh okok thank you for the suggestion, I will look into it
Nice tip! I would like some of those for my garage as they'll make really nice worklights
The Hue panel I have in the kitchen and it's a really nice light
what zigbee dongle is the best ?
it depends
Check the pins in #zigbee-archived too
I’d agree with the others here, but overall IMO it’s the Sonoff Zigbee Dongle Plus
Hello everyone, I'm looking to convert most if not all of my switches in my home to smart ones, I have about 30-ish of them. Which ones would you suggest, WiFi, or Zigbee/ZWave ones ?
@unreal rock Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
What country?
Lutron is the gold standard in smart lighting in the US. Take a look at the Diva Caseta dimmer
I'm in the US. Since I cross-posted, I'll continue the discussion in #general-archived , #general-archived message
I'm experiencing a really big delay with aqara zigbee switches with neutral. Sometimes it's almost instant and other times it takes more than a second. Is this something already known or is it a fault in my side? (I have 3 installed with the same behaviour)
I'm starting to think it's just about not having a neutral wire
I also have 2 sonoff minil, they're much faster but still without a constant response time
Or maybe some issue with my zigbee network, but I have a lot of routers
Not sure if I need to post it here. but.. I have a feeling that my bt-dongle is not utilized since Conbee is veryy buggy.
I had that before when I used internal bluetooth.
Does anyone know where I can set the bt hci default device? At first I could set it in the config yaml but now that we have new integrations that use some other bluetooth libs I can't seem to find how to do it.
@fleet ocean isn't there just a newer version of those smart-switches? I have some KP115
What can I actually do with a sonoff Rf bridge R2 since I can’t flash portisch on it? I ordered one of the old ones but the seller ended up sending me an R2 anyway
Yeah. They offered to let me keep it for 50% off but I’m genuinely not sure what I’d do with it… I just plugged in my sdr and am using rtl_433 right now and that seems to do just about everything the R2 can
Has Eve released Matter firmware yet?
Hello all, would a google nest mini still function correctly if the wifi network it was connected to had blocked internet access? I just want to use it as a door bell with HA.
.. I keep all wifi iot devices on a seperate wifi ssid without external access
Any one have a suggestion for a pet immune (~ 75lb dog) motion sensor? Not too concerned about protocol, zigbee/zwave.
I believe that won't work. To my knowledge those Google devices communicate exclusively w/ Google's cloud and don't have local connectivity
Surely it would still be able to receive a local cast stream while on wifi?
They've a habit of going dumb when they can't connect to the mothership
Absolute junk then
Any recommendations for an alternative? It just needs to be able to play an audio file when a button is pressed, that's it
I just use those, connected to Google, or Sonos/Symfonisk speakers
I might just give it a try, people are selling them new in box for like $30aud
Just as an unscientific data point.... I used my Google Nest Hub and blocked it's internet access. I could select it from the Cast menu, but casting failed and the Hub eventually showed a "Check your network connect. Reset your router and try again" message.
the rare instances where i've lost my internet connection and/or they can't reach el goog temporarily has resulted in all of my google cast devices going into AP mode
i'm sure it's to reduce support messages/calls, but i do wish there was a setting that prevented that from happening
Yeah... suddenly having a bunch of devices go into AP mode is a great way of confirming your Internet is down 🤣
yep lol
You wanted the #zigbee-archived channel
Sorry about that, thanks!
Any has roller shades ?
I'm sure plenty of people do. But you might want to check the pins on what information to provide to get you a good answer 🙂
Does anyone know the website that is selling some ESPHome based EPS32 devices that had presence detection, humidity, temp, light, and a few other things all in a single package? They were sold out last I looked (a few weeks ago) but now I cant remember the dang website!
👍🙂 will move it now
can anyone tell me what header does the shelly 2.5 use for their serial port? I need a cable to flash it
@eager valley I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
Yes!! Thank you!! Book marking this
hey, which channel should I ask a question about esp home ir transmitters?
#diy-archived most likely
Hi everyone - I saw that sonoff has "new" switches namely the "SONOFF POWR316 POW Origin"
This however does not have a ground passthrough anymore - can I just wire it like this for appliances that need ground?
it's not perfect but yes
Are there any zigbee temperature sensors that either report at every 0.1C change or that can be set to report every minute or less? If not available for zigbee then any other type?
I am commissioning a home heating system that currently is using a Sonoff zigbee temperature sensor and it can take 5 minutes or more to report a temperature change which can result in a large room temperature swing when the heater is not getting data more frequently.
The Develco/Frient multi-sensor (pro) can be set to report frequently/for small changes. Not sure about 0.1C, but possibly
Hey guys, is it preferable to run a Raspberry pi 4 hass.io from SD card, USB stick or usb-connected HDD. I don't have an SSD atm
you will lose some speed with hdd (maybe) - other than that its still better than usb stick and sd card
Thanks for the suggestion. I found https://www.develcoproducts.com/products/sensors-and-alarms/ which doesn't show a temperature sensor. It does show an odd combination of water leak detector and temperature sensor ..... Is this the company you are referring to or is there another 'Develco'? Do you maybe have a link of the sensor or a suggestion where to purchase it ?
Seems odd to measure temperature in ground level out of the way places or under appliances or in bathroom vanities etc .... just seems a very odd combination <shrug>
Someone suggest a cheap/simple bluetooth/z* temperature sensor? (off shelf, not diy). Are ThermoPro or Govee any good?
I've asked the same question week ago 🙂 I bought Govee H5075 and bluetooth dongle (TP-Link U500) and they work great
!
Thanks for the suggestion I found
For Zigbee, look at Xiaomi
I have many problems with the sonoff devices (SNZB-02, 30, 04 temperature, presence, opening,... ) they disconnect very often.... I don't know how to make a script of not available to at least know what They stop working. I have them through Zigbee2MQTT that could be the problem? Any clue... does anyone have the script to detect when they go offline? Thank you very much #sonoff Thanks!!
You wanted the #zigbee-archived channel
Mostly the answer is that they're crappy devices
Hi, i am looking for a local light bulb that also have smart state anyone would have suggestions?
"smart state"?
yeah it remembers its state
right now if i have powerloss all my light goes on
in the middle of the night
Oof
Many Zigbee bulbs support that, but Hue are the gold standard
Philips Hue lights are configurable for that
And others I'm sure, but I'm not familiar with which
ok but philips hue is not viable i need over 15 bulbs
Tradfri do
that would cost way to much using philips
I was just answering your question 🤷♂️
Thank you!! Thank you very much!!. What brands would you recommend that were not too expensive? Thank you!!
I'll answer over in #zigbee-archived
Anyone know of any good smart rings that can be used with hass?
Hue white Ambience lights are $12.50/bulb when bought in packs of four on amazon (in the US). If you don't actually need the color, don't pay for it. No clue on "refurbished" bulbs, but $12.50/bulb in 2 packs on ebay.
the ikea Tradfri look like $11 for the similar 800 lumen white ambience, and $14 for the 1100 lumen white ambience
philips wiz are cheap..
And I just fired this up to play with - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D6HR559 - and has this option on it's "firmware" page:
guess i can't paste images
it's this - "Kauf Bulb Power On State Always On - Last Value"
23:32:24 [D] [select:062] 'Kauf Bulb Power On State' - Setting
23:32:24 [D] [select:115] 'Kauf Bulb Power On State' - Set selected option to: Always On - Last alue
23:32:24 [D] [select:015] 'Kauf Bulb Power On State': Sending state Always On - Last Value (index 1)
23:32:27 [D] [esp8266.preferences:273] Saving preferences to flash...
I haven't played with wiz at all, when i bought my hue stuff, wiz wasn't around, and i got a bunch of the white lights super cheap. Looks like the 800 luman wiz color lights are $11 on amazon. I don't know how they handle "keeping last state", which is what I was answering earlier.
They do it, it has to be enabled in the wiz app while you connect them to your wifi access point
cool, I haven't purchased any new hue stuff in awhile, I bought a single Kauf bulb to play with earlier this year, and just haven't set it up yet. Need to do a conversion from hue -> ha if I'm going to go all in on this. Right now HA->huehub 🙂 Motion sensors are all hue based to trigger lights. If i mix lights, need to update things.
Any recommendations for a heat pump manufacturer with good integration with HA? I see that Daikin has closed their ecosystem and Mitsubishi looks a little confusing (different platforms for each region, but only some have HA integrations?)
I think I'm looking at a Lennox system with either an S30 or E30 thermostat but will have to see prices, seems like there's a good integration for their stuff anyways
Hi all. I have DC ceiling fans and want to smart them up… I see zwave and Wi-Fi upgrades for AC ceiling fans, but nothing for DC… anyone have any ideas?
How is it being controlled currently?
ya dude get off the hue hub with zigbee2mqtt and a usb dongle and never look back
is it conceivable that my older intel NUC 3427 with an i5 (running Home Assistant, z2mqtt and some other things) chews through a PSU every few months? Or am I just really unlucky with those offbrand PSUs?
Maybe it's not grounded properly or it shorts at times?
This is the second time it won't start up anymore and from the looks of it the PSU is dead. this time the amperage fluctuates. The last one that died 3 months ago has consistent but very low amperage. Voltage at least is where it should be at 19V on both...
in general it's not suggested to buy shit tier PSUs
when they go bad a lot of times they take whatever is connected with them
maybe you have an issue with the outlet that is killing them?
loose wire or something
Quality PSUs will survive abuse that kills lesser ones - if you've got problems with the power supply then that could trivially kill a lesser PSU, and even kill good ones
Is there a preferred bluetooth adapter out of the list in the documentation? I'm inclined to get the one with the antenna but that probably doesn't mean it is the best. Looking to add bluetooth so I can get a mi weight scale to work with HA.
I am confident the power is fine. My router is on the same strip and has been running fine for years. and my main desktop PC I am on writing this is on the next wall plug, just 4 steps away.
really weird....the first PC that went was the one the NUC came with. strange things afoot....sigh...more troubleshooting 😉
could a faulty power cable (that is carrying AC) create bad power supply? I admittedly just reused the old one from the original PSU with the replacement PSU)
Any recommendations for smart Edison/filament bulbs that are temperature-adjustable available in the US, and ideally globe-shaped?
Ideally zigbee but potentially open to other options if it’s the last resort
Power supplies are a buy once cry once type deal.
I've got ZHA up and running to play with. I haven't wanted to do the conversion of hue-hub to HA direct yet, since that all works as is without issues right now. On my list, low priority right now.
Pro tip: when you delete a device from hue app it automatically goes into pairing mode and you can join it to zigbee immediately. Way easier than using a remote dimmer to reset them
thanks, good tip to be able to do everything from the comfort of my chair 🙂
getting up is overrated
What is your favorite ESPHome compatible smart plug to use in the US?
Edit: I was thinking about picking up some SONOFF S31 plugs.
Hi everyone. I have A Rpi4 running HA and added my tuya cubetouch device to HA, the switch is greyed out. Is there any way I can control the switch?
I have some S31's running tasmota that appear to work fine for what little tracking I'm doing with them
Looking for a no cloud air quality monitoring sensor. Need pm2.5 and VOC sensing, do NOT need CO2. Definitely don't need a stupid screen attached either.
Also preferably not DIY but I'm not entirely opposed to it
Currently they have RF controlled dc transformers in them. I have 7 of them throughout my home. I did find these on alibaba… but no stock… https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005002817617439.html
Awesome! Is that considered a local solution or do those devices reachout to the internet? I was looking to keep everything local.
tasmota and esphome are both local only solutions
requires mqtt, but works fine. You can flash between the two depending on what you are used to.
Great! Thank you so much!
Maybe sonoff rf bridge? Do you know what frequency those remote runs on?
Any good whole home battery system for home assistant integration, that does not require a internet connection to be controlled? i.e. it can be used/settings can be changed without internet access.
Are there any air purifiers with local control besides IKEA's zigbee one?
I'm not sure the IKEA one is #zigbee-archived, I'm pretty sure it's WiFi
I have the Phillips AC2889, WiFi based, but can be locally controlled with the CoAP integration. The only issue that I have had with it is that it can be a bit fussy about WiFi access points.
They do a Zigbee one
The Starkvind is ZigBee, is it not?
Philips says that's discontinued. Do you know if there's an equivalent newer model that also works locally?
Woof. Only other purifier I see on their site is $700.
I think this might be the right channel... I'm working with a Samsung A8 tablet. Trying to figure out if I can shut off the display without it going into hibernate/sleep mode. Got a camera feed automation and it works... until the tablet's had its screen off for awhile. Is there a way to make this do what I want? Google search isn't being useful for me at the moment. (The answer might be as dumb as 'keep it plugged in' so just yell at me if it's simple, I wont bite)
Have you tried Fully Kiosk?
Only the 'trial' version. It doesn't seem to help, but I don't know if there's a limitation there. (NOTE: On default settings)
Aand I'm noticing settings that might help. Might be able to just ignore me ;D [Confirmed, ignore the crap out of me and give Zeek a cookie for responding]
Has anyone here managed to install a Sonoff ZBMINI into a 3-way hotel switch? I'm having issues trying to find out how to properly wire it.
https://i.imgur.com/9cknHtZ.png This is how it's currently wired up. I found some schemes for a Shelly 1, but that allows you to connect a live wire to the switch input. It seems the zbmini requires you to have a separate loop just for the switches?
For those of you using SwitchBot curtain controllers in pairs, how are you configuring/managing them?
Configuring as a pair in the switchbot app then just triggering one side in HA or configuring independently and controlling independently in HA?
Total newbie here. If there is already a good thread on this, let me know. I like the idea of having a small device being the computer. I know that Raspberry Pi's can be near impossible to get for a good price. I'm looking at the Asus Tinkerboard line for the SBC and am still considering getting the Tinkerboard SR2.0. Is this the top tier Tinkerboard? How "power" hungry can Home Assistant get? I do have an old Asus P5Q Green board with 8GB RAM that I could reassemble. (I have other old computers too.) What are the disk space requirements? I see the Tinkerboard above is 16GB; how likely would I outgrow that?
Your minimum storage is 32 GB
The top end of what HA requires... depends entirely on what you do with it. Certainly moving beyond Pi speeds is a good thing.
So the 16GB eMMC won't be enough?
16 is less than 32...
I just built an ODroid N2+ that basically copies the HA Blue. It was trivially easy to buy the parts and set it up.
HA Blue? Didn't know there was dedicated hardware like that sold.
I'd suggest that you view Pi4 (CPU) performance as your minimum baseline, and that you run it on something that performs better than eMMC or SD cards.
For what? 16 has been plenty for me.
The docs say 32 GB for a reason
You can get by with less, until suddenly you don't
If you're careful, sure, but most people aren't
Right now, I'm looking more to make HA be something like a reverse proxy so that I can view my cameras away from home.
Lost track of the number of people with dead installs that simply ran out of disk space
Decoding camera streams is CPU intensive
You won't want to skimp on resources if you're handling multiple cameras
you can use addons (docker containers) to run something like nginxproxymanager inside haos if you go that route
used laptop or nuc or something with intel cpu might not be a bad call
crazy what quicksync can get away with

i just moved my haos install from pi4 to an old laptop that a lady gave me that wasnt worth repairing and i'm happy with it
The Frigate docs give some good pointers on performance - you don't need to break the bank, or add another power feed to the house, to get good camera performance
I've been running HA and other stuff on an old (8 or 9 year old) i5 laptop quite happily for years
I'm currently running ReoLink cameras. They have a good web interface on the LAN
nginx is still gonna be proxying the feed(s) though
But if you want HA to display them it'll involve HA also doing some stream decoding
So sounds like the P5Q is more the way to go than the Tinkerboard?
i just looked that up.. core 2 duo?!
Actually, I have a QX9770 in there.
Do check the age of the CPU, and what it benchmarks at
Some older CPUs are ... terrible
who do we think will be the first out of the gate with devices that support both matter and thread (besides hubs/gateways)? I self imposed a moratorium on non thread/matter devices but I've got the itch to buy some new things 😄
better question is when will we see any actual benefits from the new devices if they ever do hit market
Yeah, I know it is Pre Core i7
it's so old they boast it having usb 2.0 ports and firewire and pcie 2.0 lol
let it die a peaceful death -.-
Yeah, encroaching on 13 years ago. It is the system I upgraded from a few months back. I figured it was close to the same specs of a Pi or something.
damn
You want better not close 😛
i wonder how much $ in electricity you would've saved if you upgraded it 5 years ago or something
you must not do much with heavy workloads lol
Didn't gain the $$$ to upgrade until recently.
Or even new... newer stuff is very power efficient
plenty of videos on youtube suggesting certain models or you can just do some research to figure out what decent specs are
So tinkerboard over P5Q?
for hass or for hass being your all in one nginx and whatever else machine?
Nah, the tinkerboard isn't a great multi-purpose server choice
hass?
(h)ome(ass)istant
So what is this Home Assistant blue hardware I heard about in here earlier?
they've slowly been renaming to ha but that's always meant high availability so i stick with hass
ODroid N2+
blue is just hassos installed on a sbc similar to a pi but faster.. still not ideal for your situation
That's slightly more capable than your Tinkerboard
eMMC sucks for I/O though, as does any SD card
For SD cards, I just look at what people use for the SteamDeck and get that.

You can get SD cards that perform, and ones that last a long time, rarely both
They're shitty for running a server off of, and you shouldn't
you either use an ssd or an ssd inside an enclosure to usb 3.x
Yeah. I get that. I went with some slower ones for in camera storage.
it's not even much more expensive for a decent ssd + enclosure vs a "fancy" microsd
These days there's little reason to not get an SSD, or better if you can. Keep the spinning disks for high volume stuff - like archiving camera footage
So something like a 256GB Samsung SSD would be a good idea.
or maybe overkill and go with something smaller?
you can get ssds like kingston a400 or inland for like $40 or $20 more for samsung evo 870
even cheaper if you dont want much storage
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-240GB-Solid-SA400S37-240G/dp/B01N5IB20Q cheap but decent for $25 lol
but you might be able to find a used nuc or laptop on ebay with a decent intel ssd already in it
tons of old gen shit being resold by resellers
there are even local resellers that will let you come pick it up from their warehouse/storefront
I learned my lesson. I go Samsung over Kingston after a friend lost all of their data on a Kinston drive.
shit happens and one offs dont mean they all suck
you setup backups offsite to cloud or something and then a hardware failure like that doesnt bring you down. they're also cheap enough to do software or (eek) hardware raid mirror too
with haos you click one button and it does a full backup and you can manually copy that off and store it somewhere. there are tutorials for automating backups to google drive etc
Back on the CPU, Apparently my QX9770 comes in a little above 2428 for PassMark score.
Which is "ok" IMO
Anything below 2K is starting to drift into why bother territory
You're not leaving yourself a lot of headroom, and if it's old enough to not have QuickSync then it'll struggle to handle multiple video streams
The only thing going for it is that it is at least 64 bit
that old stuff has front side bus limitations and god knows what else
https://docs.frigate.video/configuration/hardware_acceleration
You want QuickSync (Intel) or Radeon HD 2000 or newer
i just dont think it's a good idea to deploy such old stuff these days
I still do have a GTX580
It's old enough that some Docker images may not work with it
hell the power supply is probably waiting to die too
i wouldnt trust it to not die lol
That already died. Replaced it
Checking the age of it, I'd expect that many Docker images won't work due to missing key CPU instructions, which basically rules out HAOS or Docker
It may make a good foot warmer
you could 3d print a shrine for it
So you'd recommend something more like one of these?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYDp5Lv_8pc
Something from the last decade certainly, and the newer you can afford to buy the more performance per watt you get
I recently bought a Minisforum U820 and it absolutely kicks ass, while drawing relatively little power and running effectively silently
8th gen Intel, but for the price I can't complain
I am looking at for the infrequent case of where I check on my cams away from home. I don't expect to do that often. I'm a real homebody.
I got it for a little less, 16 GB of RAM, 512 onboard M.2 SSD
Yea m.2 ssd included helps justify cost
Added another SSD, along with an HDD for the video footage from Frigate, and it sits silently running a large Docker stack
He could also build out a whitebox with old server gear
What do I need to search for to find one?
I do have an old SparcSTATION 10
Minisforum U820
Although due to power draw and ddr4 pricing I think newer gen stuff is prob better
Search Amazon/eBay/other stores in your country
My old dual xeons are power hungry and ddr3 ecc is slow
If you can get 10th gen (or newer) Intel then that's best
He could also start cheap with a thin client with ssd and upgrade later
Still faster than sbc options
Looks like I could use the U820 as a router too.
I see that NewEgg sells the U820 for under $400
Newegg turned to shit after being bought by a Chinese company so make sure to buy with a credit card you can chargeback on if issues arise
eBay has only a $6 discount compared to NewEgg.
Can the CPU be easily replaced in the U820?
That's exactly how I have it setup. Although now I'm running into issues where the calibrated pair are not being responsive in HA, only the one side
Hi everyone I wanted to know if the RASPBERRY PI 4 4G Model B (Cortex-A72) is okay.
A thousand thanks
Yes, it's fine, if you use an SSD
that site has a list of known working compatible usb to sata enclosures
if it isnt on the known working list, it might not work
the startech 3.0 or 3.1 enclosures are cheap and work fine
I just bought a thinkcenter m900 w/ i5-6500/8gig+256ssd for $150 to replace the test pi3b+ i've been using the home assistant
there's a number of "1 liter" desktops out there for cheap, and 10-15watt idle consumption
ha, is 1 liter a term for USFF?
yeah, I've seen it used for the 7"x7"x1" boxes
that's funny. i haven't heard that before
I was looking at getting an odroidn2+, but was rapidly at $200 for setup. Figured $150 for something like this made more sense overall.
(not doing video processing)
I think the novelty of SBCs is wearing off
We now have esp devices for gpio projects like esphome and other faster cheaper options for small form factor stuff
they have their use case, but they still get suggested for everything
If it wasn’t for my 3d printers all my pi’s would be in a drawer
i have a couple pi3b+'s as music servers w/ 7" touch screens, which is a fine use for them, low computational, and provides a screen for controls.
(logitechmediaserver/squeezebox)
I played around with volumio years ago
I just use aircast addon in hass for music or directly on Plex
I don’t have a whole home audio setup but I’m not sure if use one if I did
Smart speakers are good enough or you can throw money at like Sonos
I wanted self hosted as I have a huge music collection, LMS works really well actually
it's basically self hosted sonos (other than it was around way before sonos existed)
I'm looking for a solution for my adult son with autism. He has his own fully furnished basement apartment. Sometimes, he will go turn on the kitchen sink (or shower) and leave it running and sometimes, he'll stand there and play in the water. I'm looking for some kind of timer/valve that will only allow the water to run maybe 1 minute at a time. The HA automation is pretty straightforward, but I'm looking for devices to:
- Figure how to to measure the water flow (just to the shower or sink separately)
- Shut off the water to the sink (and shower) for a period of time if it keeps running
Any suggestions?
I'm using HA on Raspi and looking for cheap buttons or contact sensors for automation.
The only requirement is native integration without the need for additional bridges.
thx for your suggestions. 🙂
Buy a (CC2652 based) Zigbee coordinator, and then you have a world of choices
I can highly recommend the Xiaomi Aqara range
Thx for the suggestion. However, I would like to wait with additional hardware purchases for Matter to be in a more usable state. 😛
Its really just for some "trial and error" stuff. So mby something with BT?
Well, come back in 2025 and let us know if Matter became usable yet
Zigbee isn't going to disappear. And it's much more reliable than bluetooth
In fact, if I were a betting person I'd gamble on Zigbee, worst case scenario you end up being able to buy a number of devices cheap because everyone is jumping ship
Yeah, I'm sticking with Zigbee for the next year or so at least, and even when Matter finally becomes a thing, it's not going to stop any of that from working
That's right, but I am not in a hurry...I'm basically just looking for a Plug&Play device and would not use zigbee as much. :c
Why wouldn't you use it as much? 🤔
Personally I find the devices I use the most are the most reliable ones.
Well, if you're happy to waste money while experimenting, Bluetooth support does exist in HA. If you're really lucky the stuff you buy will even work
Bluetooth support is improving, but it's still a limited number of devices. ESPHome can help you with connections for some devices, but that's requiring another device as an interpreter
Also, it's not like Bluetooth is going to give you a better experience than Zigbee
There's no point in using BT over ZigBee unless its iBeacons
I just bought Sonoff E stick, and some sonoff buttons that seem to work with ZHA without anything special but a sonoff blueprint for the buttons
On order through NewEgg.
i bought this for $150 with tax/shipping - https://www.ebay.com/itm/385116504642 - roughly same volume in size
If anyone has been waiting for cloud free motion sensor switches they are now in stock just as an fyi - https://cloudfree.shop/product/cloudfree-motion-light-switch/
I can neither confirm nor deny how many I bought but been waiting months for these. Now just have to figure out how to actually integrate them into HA as they will be my first tasmota devices
Hi all, is this the right channel to ask about hardware space being taken up and best practices to free up memory? 🙂
no lol
this is like.. what hardware do i buy etc
i guess #general-archived unless you have already found a specific #integrations-archived or something causing issues
Oh, good to know haha. Thanks @cold moon 🙂 OK I'll pitch it in General and go from there 👍
bought some zigbee power monitors, but also playing with wifi power monitors, any opinions on sonoffs31 vs athom vs cloudfree (not married to tasmota or esphome yet, still in the experimentation phase)
and physical (internal) issues?
Would matter even compete with zigbee? I thought tether was the new protocol and matter was just everyone plays nice together.
Would matter even compete with zigbee I
Is there any good quality zigbee wireless relay that can be mounted on DIN rail? for 220V 50Hz mains
with metering would be even better
We are working through the same issue then 🙂
Are you using a BT dongle on the HA host or ESP BT proxies?
Yes, it’s been frustrating because it was working fine, but randomly stopped working. Reset and re-added multiple times and it works just not reliably as before. I have a USB dongle attached to a USB extension chord. The distance to my RPi is relatively close so didn’t think range was the problem. I have other SwitchBot devices that are further that work more reliably.
Is there a good multi-socket power consumption meters? I've mostly looked at zigbee but didn't find anything terribly enticing.
Most are single sockets, and would block others on the strip
Hi just tried starting fresh on my HA Blue. Did the re flash with Balena Etcher and not getting the ui at all. Now all I can see when on a screen is the HA CLI an clues what I could try
The #installation-archived channel is the place to get help with that
Thank you , just thought here with it being a Blue
Read the channel topic 😉
🤣
not sure which is the best channel to ask, but what's your experience with ble sensors (https://custom-components.github.io/ble_monitor/) ? specifically operation range and battery life (in the case of 2032 battery operated little devices).
Cheap sensors are cool, good sensors aren’t cheap
Range isn’t far but you can use Bluetooth proxies with esphome
love that!
nice, didn't knew about that
I have horizontal blinds with pull cords rather than a beaded chain loop. Does anyone know of a smart driver that will work with them?
the $4 xaiomi temp/humidity sensors arent bad
i bought 4 of them and planned to use them in enclosures for each of my 3d printers
ended up just putting them in rooms and they do their job ok. i need to tweak the reporting cuz 3/4 are draining battery way more than the 4th by reporting too often
sounds interesting, I like battery ones to avoid adapters around the house, but seems like battery is still an issue
it's really not bad
you can get anywhere from like 3months-2years from a battery powered device these days
hue motion sensors that do temp/motion/lux last forever on battery
ah, nice..
which ones?
video is out of date tho, you just flash them with the custom firmware from the site now and choose bthome then hass finds them on its own if you have bluetooth setup
yep
thanks for your help!
Hi, I'm looking for compatible ICRGB led strip (controllers or the whole package) which can be controlled fully by home assistant. Anyone got some suggestions or tips?
I live in the Netherlands
Zigbee and wifi are both fine
My budget for this will be less than a Philips Hue strip.
Features:
Rgbww Led strip
Colours at a similar brightness to the whites.
Per zone addressable via home assistant, whether that's via integration or zigbee2mqtt
you might have better luck searching rgbw or rgbw-cct
diy is always a better solution for led strips though
idk what you mean by per zone addressable though
wled does virtual segments where you can take one strip and split it into multiple "virtual strips" but that's gonna be a diy solution
this would be one option to buy a controller then add w/e strip you want such as a sk6812 rgbw https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-high-power-led-strip-controller
https://www.gledopto.eu/?a=5174&lang=eng similar option for zigbee but wont be using wled
I just replaced the AA-alkalines in a bunch of mine for the first time after almost 3 years
What's a decent-value tablet to be using for a wall-mounted home automation screen? Trying not to break like.. $200 if possible. don't mind used markets
New fire tablets aren’t bad if you use the fire toolbox on them
You strip out the amazon bullshit and add google play store
Then you setup fully kiosk browser on it and that lets you do things like turn screen on based on motion and launch hass app or webui
You can 3d print or order decent mount options
"Please get a license" lol
It might be better to buy used Samsung tablets or something but I’ve only used this
I’m too cheap to pay them $8
yea, so i've only seen Samsung and Fire tablets so far
Funny how many people focus on that
iPads are superior tablets but they’re too locked down to do cool shit like this and jailbreaking isn’t what it used to be
yea, and expensive
i mean i do have an ipad somewhere
but it's like.. gen 3 lol
with the old ass connector
for control panels, you just want a browser, not a fancy tablet, no?
Well if it’s slow to turn on and load stuff like camera feeds then it’s not a good option
agreed, my point is you don't need a $500 tablet to run a web page (most of the time)
Yea
I actually have fully kiosk launching the hass app not browser
I tested both and found the app was maybe faster if not the same
android?
But also allowed me to hide like a bottom bar that I couldn’t do with webui
Fire tablet
fire tablet = android
valid 🙂
I havent put it on the wall yet
I bought a PoE power splitter and it works but need to go in crawl space attic to run a cable
And the 3d printed case I printed is in three parts so I need to sand edges down and glue together I guess
I'm still experimenting around with stuff, haven't gotten to the kiosk/tablet setup. Probably won't bother, but may experiment with an old phone or similar.
nice
yea, i just paid $150 for a lenovo tiny to move off a pi 3b+, will get that going before buying fire10
3d print looks fine and minimal
the parts that the tablet lays on didnt print great upside down
refurb fire10's are $70 right now
but i printed that way so the parts showing were perfect on the glass bed
it has a nice "mirror finish with dots" on it
don't have a 3d printer, yet.....
dont buy one if you dont want a hobby
they're great but you have to actually learn what you're doing to get good prints
spending a few hours watching youtube videos and then taking your time building one and doing a few cheap upgrades saves you days/weeks/months of heartache wondering why shit doesnt work right
i see it on reddit and discord all the time
yeah, I don't have the time to invest yet, or the space. I do want one, and there are things I want to futz with, but after making a half dozen things, not sure what i would use it for.
you can buy a $200 printer and $50 in upgrades and have a really good printer
im up to five lol
yeah, not sure that's a hobby anymore, more an addiction....
adhd brain yo
i do have them posted on treatstock for people to send me files to print prototypes or w/e for $
but it's a race to the bottom with lots of people with the same idea so i havent gotten any hits lol
im not gonna mark it way down to where i only make a few bucks
same with etsy
only good way to make money is design something yourself, dont share or sell the 3d model, and sell finished designs only
good example, one guy sells 3d printed yeti cooler addons for fishermen
rednecks will pay good money for a fancy beer holder
yeah, it's find a niche market, like fire10 wall mounts with fancy bits, or embedded family names in the 3d print frame
yea
in my defense, two were $99 and two were xmas gifts from family
when it takes 24 hours to print something the size of a soccer ball it's easy to justify multiple
i have them all added to hass with a decent dashboard and control over mqtt
Hey all, im after some advice on which senaor to use for my esp32 project. Its going to be a car presance detector however itll be outside on a drive and open to rain, snow and such. Itll be mounted in an upside down bowl shaped 3d printed housing. Pretty much those things in car park spaces at shopping malls that say if theres spaces or not. The sensor would need to be able to pass through the plastic and ignore that but read between a configurable distance. So IR wont work i dont think. Im not sure if a rcwl radar would work here.
i said this for like 10 years, then finally got one. Prusa Mini 😉
ended up printing out a lot of enclosures for circuit boards
definitely depends on your hobbies for sure
i guess there's also the raspberry pi DIY tablet
... if only there were any raspberry pis to get
you rapidly get to a price point (Even at msrp) where pi + stuff doesn't make sense
I built pi + 7" screens + smartipi enclosure's + dac for audio players at home, and that was $150-175 rapidly
is flume the only kind of product in that market segment? I'd read the meter by the street, but its a quarter mile away and I'm not sure its even readable with the likes of rtl_433
I'm not afraid of adding my own meter on the main line into the house if it makes life easier
I meant multiple segments, and per segment addressable through HA I will check out WLED, since that looks like it should do the thing I want.
yep
pretty useful
currently there's a workaround needed for rgbw-cct with wled integration due to an issue with the wled integration but it's in the works
https://kno.wled.ge/advanced/home-automation/#home-assistant warning at top of screen
Since 2022.2, oof
i've asked frenck for an update and didnt get a great response :/
iirc he said it's "done but needs testing" and when i offered to help test he said im welcome to submit a pr with proper checks blah blah
so it doesnt need testing from users, it needs a coder to make sure it passes w/e checks
wled side was fixed months ago
Can I assume you use WLED yourself?
you can
i only have two rgbw-cct bulbs. the rest are just rgb led strips not rgbw or rgbw-cct
So imagine you have some leftover ledstrip, if you hook it up using a longer cable inbetween two parts, can you run it as if they are different light strips for the effects?
So, in theory, you'd be able to use one controller for the whole house
not really
I got a small house though, at the moment
technically but due to wiring, voltage drop, injection for amps, etc not really
it would only be for one room, but might be a few meters
Ahhh love it.
those are the rgbw cct bulbs i have
work great for a bathroom but for lots of bulbs zigbee is a better route
you can buy a controller with a built in microphone and then have all the strips / bulbs sync together with music
lots of cool shit
I want a strip on top of my bookcase mainly, bought something but that is incompatible with HA sadly, and has a few other issues, enough to return it
that's my hyperion setup with wled led strip behind tv and some other sauce
ya just learn to diy led strips man
Ahh nice, did you need a hdmi sync box for that?
hyperion is niiice
you either buy a hdmi passthru device or you use an android tv or you use a LG TV rooted
If the new chromecast works I am fine 😛
i use "android hyperion grabber" app on my nvidia shield tv to send data to hyperion-ng addon running inside home assistant which controls the leds behind tv which are controlled by wled
But my setup has got an old reciever for surround sound, using a gaming monitor for video, but the video is ahead of audio so I don't always get the perfect A/V sync, so a box which adds a little delay to the video would be nice
I see your leds are sometimes faster than the sceen itself btw
it's an old video
and the video is recorded at 4k 60fps
apparently >30fps it's fucky on recording
in person it looks fine and i've tweaked fps higher since that video
it's not perfect but it's 10x better than the hue sync box setup
and the govee setup where they have you put a camera above the tv is even worse lol
It just looks like the part where it says the year 2005, the lights behind it seems faster
Could also just be the input lag of the tv ofcourse
nah it wasnt synced perfectly at that time + the video issue stated above
also it cant perfectly detect the color when there's black bars above/below
it does a pretty good job
it's still beta software man
It looks pretty darn cool though
Ask advice for one thing, get more ideas for other projects... 🥹
i thought it would be distracting so i didnt set it up for a while
it's actually more immersive
i might go back and replace it with 144leds/meter instead of 60/meter
Yeah I would also be fine with just a solid color depending on the scene, but thats difficult to do probably
just so there's even more pixels
nah fuck that
that's $10 walmart tiktok shit
Yeah but if done right, pretty dope, film makers/studios should actually provide support for things like ambilight to enhance the experience
nah keep hollyweirdos out of our living rooms
Instead of just relying on what's on screen, things offscreen could be added then
I do think in that video, the flashes in the flashy red/blue texts are adding more than in the bright scene with the bus, is that adjustable, that it doesn't do brighter scenes, but does do the little flashes of light?
idk man
was it just the grabber app with the HA add-on btw or did you need more devices?
led strip needs a controller
i use a $1 d1 mini esp8266 in a little 3d printed case
you can either buy a controller or make your own. as long as it runs wled and can connect to led strip you're fine
Yeah I just installed the app and installed the integration, but they both ask for a host
i said addon not integration
integrations are how you integrate things that are already setup to home assistant
you integrate after you setup the addon
you can run hyperbianOS on an old pi if you have one but the addon works fine and dont need another device for it
I mean I just have to add that link to the custom repositories right?
right
Because it is not showing up atm
then the addon shows up
in the addons store or w/e
scroll down and it's at the bottom
Re added, now it shows up
I'm looking to add garage door monitoring and control. I see a few options, but most seem to have downsides.
- The first thing I looked at was the GoControl/Linear GD00Z modules. Those seem like they should work, but apparently quite a few people have them die when the overdriven blue LED goes out after a year or so. They also have no customer support as their real market is security system installers. This does follow the UL safety guidlines.
- I could create my own by combine some form of sensor with some form of wifi or Z-wave relay. But many of the tilt sensors have reliability complaints. Of note are issues where they can stop working after a while, due to the ball bearings they use sticking. People suggest soldering in mercury tilt switches instead, but having to modify a sensor seems annoying. This approach does not follow the UL Saftey guidelines.
- Another option seems to be Tailwind, which now has a local api, and a hacs custom_component that can use it. It seems like a solid enough device, and it uses a hardwired magnetic sensor (similar to the ones used for door/window alarms), which means better reliability vs other sensor types. It is however originally designed to be cloud-first, and connecting it to the cloud is needed to get the local API key. This does have actually good support though. This does follow the UL safety guidelines.
- Lastly, I see opengarage. This works, can do both MQTT and and a direct home assistant integration. It is a bit weird in the use of the ultrasonic distance detector. As expected from the nature of this, support is limited. On the plus side, one can always simply edit the firmware and recompile if needed to fix things. This does not follow the UL Saftey guidelines.
Thoughts or recommendations?
Cheap working zigbee dongle is the sonoff p dongle mentioned here: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/information/supported_adapters.html
For zwave the zooz 700 series or the aeotec 700 series is good
And buy usb 2.0 extenders for each usb stick to move them away from the usb ports on the blue. It’s a known interference issue for both protocols
@bright marten
Thank you
Do these typically cover an entire house or are there repeaters I can buy to go with it?
For zwave all mains powered devices are repeaters per spec
For zigbee in theory the same is true, in practice most devices fall into that category but not all
Ideally each stick would be centrally located
Some use PoE coordinators for zigbee like the tube one linked in z2m link above. For zwave they have a pi or something with controller connected to it and integrated to home assistant over lan
Re: WLED - It's not as user friendly or organized as i would like
like the LED setup page, i feel like input fields were just thrown in there in haste
(this is coming from a person who does front-end web apps, so i'm probably biased as heck)
i contemplate how i'd rework WLED, but i would have to spend a couple more months absorbing the knowledge/domain of that project
It has to fit in 1mb,2mb and other tiny partitions using littleFS or something for various esp devices
I’m not a dev at all but you’re welcome to join their server and try to help
im' already in there lol
Cool
i respect the community for what they built
just needs that extra push in the UI direction to match the fun that LEDs give
The app and webui controls are on par or better than paid options imo
And with ability to control with json, dmx, etc etc there’s no reason you can’t use whatever front end you want or even make one
The config is a one time thing
The presets and 2d mapping are weird but most people don’t need those
Any zwave or ZigBee wall wort plug recommendations that won't burn my house down? 110v USA. I have some cheapies from Amazon that are being recognized as lights instead of switches
Maybe these https://amzn.to/3FClmiD
I'm running HA on a laptop now as a test but what's the best hardware that's readily available to run it on, considering the Yellow can't be gotten? I'm in the US.
old laptop works fine, nuc works fine, used thin client is a cheap alternative
Trying an older Lenovo Tiny tomorrow to replace a Pi3b+. i5-6500t cpu, 8gigs ram, SSD, 10-15 watts idle power
10-15… more like 30W because 
I really like the Fibaro Zwave ones. I’m using the Euro versions, but they have US ones with the same firmware.
https://www.servethehome.com/lenovo-thinkcentre-m900-tiny-project-tinyminimicro-guide/3/
Idle power consumption on 120V power we saw 11-13W idle for the quad-core unit. We generally assume these nodes will use 9-12W idle so this was a bit higher. Again, these are used units so it may vary a bit.
Well then that is just mine with a 3770t
I'd like to find a small-form pc, that can use a real disk (not sd), that's not a steenkin' rpi (that I can't get anyway)...
There's no shortage of them, the question is whether you're willing to pay for them...
Can get, say "Dell OptiPlex 7050 SFF intel i5 6500 3.20GHz 8GB RAM 128GB SSD" for AU$179 but it's pretty big.
I completely failed to get my rpi booting off an external drive, for no reason I could tell (yes, I wrote the setting to make it look , doesn't seem to work).
you can tiny dell 3050 sff's, lenovo tiny's, all are 7"x7"x1.5" - https://www.servethehome.com/introducing-project-tinyminimicro-home-lab-revolution/
And f**k sd cards.
I got one of https://store.minisforum.com/products/minisforum-u820-u850-mini-pc new for a bit of a discount and it's been amazing
There's plenty of other similar sized units from them and others
I don't think I need anything that powerful, or that new (second hand probably OK). It's literally been 15+ years since I bought any pc hardware, except rpi.
All my work machines are mac. My HA is currently running in a virtualbox on one of them...
But I've got a z* usb dongle on the way, feel like native would be better.
That last one looks like a good option. Any know compatability issues with haos and ThinkCentre M910q Tiny?
you can ask me tomorrow when mine comes in
You .AU too?
california, but same product
i have a m900 i5-6500t cpu, 8gig ram, some ssd.
plan to drop proxmox on it, and vm hass. I want to put dns/dhcp server on another vm
otherwise i would just use the whole thing natively
they take sodimms if you want to run a couple other things, or leave as is and just run natively
Why proxmox vs haos?
i want to run another native linux software on the box
but should be fine all native haos
replacement fan units for these things look to be about $20 usd shipped, if they get noisy, after that, just replace it
friend of mine has the newer generation versions with 10th gen intel cpu's in them. They obviously cost more with that, roughly same power for more perf though.
OK bought it 🙂
Guys do any of you have the Tp-link deco X20 mesh and would you recommend them thanks or is there something better, thanks
Anybody have recommendations for a pi4 power supply?
Pi4 with cooling fan, 500gb ssd, zigbee usb stick, and zwave stick.
Noticed the one I have is making a strange whining noise which makes me nervous. 😬
This is what I'm looking at...
Geekworm Raspberry Pi 4 Power Supply, 20W 5V 4A USB C https://a.co/d/2CeblIp
has any manufacturer igured out yet that there's a market for an otherwise unremarkable power bank that has a usbc input and separate output and can use both of them at once? ie, a miniature UPS vor USBC?
(re: pi PSU, I use an official pi4 brick, 3A, and that'sbeen reasoably solid.)
I personally use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TYQRXTK, which came as part of a kit I got. It has worked perfectly for two years so far, with the my only power related problem being the one time a house cleaner accidentally turned off the power strip it was plugged into.
Nice. It gets good reviews too. If you think it'll be powerful enough to power all the connected hardware... I'll give it a shot. (looks like a better one than what I found). 😁
Hello ! Does anyone use an outdoor smart plug that works well with home assistant ? I want one with 2 outlet to use indoor for my aquarium.
I would like them to work with Thread, ZigBee or WiFi and if possible to have a monitoring. Of course it must work with home assistant.
I can't find any that workd, I've bought one from Kasa TP-Link but they can't work locally anymore so I've sent them back...
hello, i'm new and i have a question. 🙂 i had changed from homey pro to home assistant and most of the automations works great on home assistant. but one automation makes me go crazy. i have a security automation, which triggers when some devices are disconnected from asus router. this part works great. when i come home and my smartphone is online and the door sensor is triggerd, i was able to start instantly a flow to disable security with homey pro. on home assistant, this will not work because the entities i can use from the integration will take to much time to change the state of a device i prefer.
is there a solution to modify this delay or has anybody a better solution for this?
with best regards 🙂
because the entities i can use from the integration will take to much time to change the state of a device i prefer.
What ... what does that mean?
Are you talking about detecting you arriving home?
Are you talking about controlling other things?
oh, sorry. yes, i want to detect, if someone is home.
Then that bit is easy enough to address
As an alternative to HA built-in bluetooth tracking, the monitor script uses separate devices, usually Pi Zeroes, to track bluetooth devices.
It uses MQTT topics to relay device status messages to HA. See this forum thread for more.
There is also an add-on available for it.
That's one option. Using the connected WiFi sensor of the official HA app is another option.
Using both of those I find that about 50% of the time people are detected as arriving home as they approach the front door, and the rest of the time they're detected within 10 seconds of opening the door.
(opening the door kicks off a BT scan by monitor to see who's arriving home)
Okay, thank you. 🙂 I can query the individual devices and also get a corresponding status - such as "At home" or "Away". The time from cell phone connected to router and change status may take 1 minute, which is not so optimal. Who likes to stand in front of the door for 1 minute until he is allowed to enter 🙂
Well, if you want to detect it before the door opens you need to extend the reach of your network, or automate more
A camera with face detection would be one option
A motion sensor that triggers a BT scan would be another
I'll give that some thought. 🙂 Is there a way to get the configurations of the devices in HA to manually change any intervals? I have not found a folder that contains the included devices. And in the yaml files is also no further in it.
It's handled by the integration
Mostly that means either you leave it to update itself, or write an automation that uses homeassistant.update_entity to force updates at shorter intervals
If you're doing that though you're probably using the wrong tool (integration) for the job
anyone gotten panasonic heat pumps integrated with h-a?
i see this exists: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/panasonic-comfort-cloud/229090
@winged knoll thank you for this hint. I have an asus router and i am using the asuswrt integration. Can you say me, which property name of the entity i have to play with?
You don't
You call that service on the entity you want to update, and whether it updates or not depends on the integration
I'd not expect it to result in the phone being detected any faster
For a faster detection, see my previous recommendations
Recently moved into a place, and they have installed LED strips in the kitchen paired with a Trådfri remote
However, I cannot for the life of me figure out what kind of LED strips they are.
Anybody got a clue from this video?
Tradfri would point to Zigbee
I have all of that, except the cooling fan (and my ssd is just slightly larger), and it is working fine for me. I can't actually say with certainty that the fan would not push it over the top, but I'm guessing not. (I have a 120ma cooling fan from my kit, but simply don't have it plugged in, as my temps have been fine without it). Given that this one is 3.5 A, and the official RPI supply is only 3A, I'd be surprised if the fan would push it over the edge.
It is also the suggested power supply in the home assistant installation documentation.
Awesome, thanks for the recommendation! I just ordered it. 😁
I’ve got three 70-inch wide windows that I want reliable, affordable smart blinds/rollers/shades for.
Any recommendations in the US?
It looks like Ikea Fyrtur/Tredansen cap out at 48” wide 😦
Thirdreality got some
Installed proxmox and HAOS onto my i5-6500t Lenovo Thinkcentre 900 tiny. Current idle wattage is 8-11 watts, with a power on spike of 40watts, and a reboot spike of 30watts. HA isn't doing anything right now but talking to my hue bridge. M2 SSD + 8gigs of ram. Sengled Zigbee power monitor for checking right now, so not sure what std error is quite yet, and i'm getting some zero reading from the power monitor, but i also literally installed it just to test this box.
I think mine is fairly similiar (Lenovo ThinkCente M910q Tiny PC Intel i5-6500T @2.50GHz 8GB RAM 250GB SSD)
It's got to be better than running it on my imac, which is 30-35W if the screen is off, or 70W if it's on
The only difference between m900 and m910q is onboard graphics Intel HD 530 vs Intel HD 630. But I don't even have a screen connected 🙂
you just ordered it yesterday right?
i was expecting sata not m2 ssd btw, so nice bonus
fyi, upgraded the bios on the unit first, the bios upgrades are "bootable" so you need to make it bootable. "f1" to get to the bios on bootup (not displayed).
here's the power output, but i'm wondering what the "0" drops are now - https://owncloud.dhp.com/index.php/s/8FCZIw8b71hXBDy
I don’t think they go to 70” wide IIRC
Yes, it'll be a few days, coming from different state
I suppose I'll need to find a corded keyboard somewhere. All my machines are Mac these days.
Added a keyboard and mouse to the order. Heheh.
I have a usb->logitech keyboard&mouse thingy that i use for this stuff. mouse pad on the side of the keyboard 🙂
it also comes with VTPRO remote desktop, look up "meshcommander" and you can get remote console on it. I haven't fully configured it on my end yet.
I had a big cleanup a couple of years ago, and threw away boxes and boxes of PC gear, including all my keyboards and mice, old servers, etc.
if you have a mac usb keyboard it will work
I'd have to steal it from my son - all mine are wireless. Easy enough to order a new keyboard/mouse, then I can leave it in the workshop with the HA and the camera NVR, in case I need it. I threw out all my old monitors also! 🙂
all my macs except 1 are laptops, so also have built-in keyboard+trackpad
I think I've got/had one of those. But, probably lost the usb dongle for it.
it goes in the battery compartment, having thought i lost it also at one point
I've probably not been very good about putting it away 🙂 either are my kids
I bought a new keyboard about mouse for about the price of that k400. Good enough.
manually rebuilding this new box, rather than backup/restore
small enough network of stuff
so far the reboot/restart speed is nice, and 4gigs ram vs 1gig ram is noticeable
My current ha is on a virtualbox with ssd and 3gb on a i5 so I’m not expecting too much difference
yea, i could see how that's not going to change much
But it’s smaller, uses less power, and easier to do usb/Bluetooth/zigbee etc with real hardware
i just did it with proxmox, mapped the usb stick into the vm, was a one option selection
just turned the pi3 off
Would migrating to influx or mariadb speed things up?
Not to InfluxDB, no, since recorder doesn't use that
To MariaDB, maybe ... depending on where the performance problems are
I only notice interactive performance especially history view with a couple of days of high update data
A couple of my integrations poll at 1s 😦
I realized I left the default 32gig data drive, may change that. I assume I can either grow the FS, or make a new virt disk, attach, move and remove the old virt disk
I need to remember to do that next week
well, removing the sengled power monitors from the config appears to POWER THEM OFF, not polite
Hehe
since i just power cycled one of my AP's
the tasmota devices just changes user/pw/host on the mqtt config
trying to get devices and entities to line up in names
and the last power monitor is plugged into the server running HA....
Hahah
i caught it before deleting to rename
(Googling cheap ups now)
so shell game commences with power cables and shutdowns
and finished
Anyone use inovelli blue switches ?
Guy in #zigbee-archived channel was just asking for help with those
Hey can someone help me out, i was just looking for a temperature sensor that wouldn't need me to get zigbe/zwave/etc hubs, so i came across the Shelly plus h&t that looks just like what i would want. It passes the wife approval and everything, but browsing ha forums i came across some threads where people are complaining that it's not working properly cause of the sleep mode. So i looked into that, and came accross this git thread, that just got commited to the dev(?) code base(?) minutes ago. https://github.com/home-assistant/core/pull/81121
Does this mean the issue is potentially fixed, and when the next HA update rolls out, it will be fine to have the h&t sensor in question, or is there more to it?
Thanks
So it DOES exist! Thank you. Unfortunately I forgot to specify “available for shipping to the EU” and it’s going to fall at that hurdle, but it’s good to know at least it exists.
This one might work: https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B08L3CC222/ . Has a built in usb c cable and a usb c port, and it’s specified at least that it can output from both at once. But not sure if it can do pass through.
Hey can someone help me out i was just
FYI - My migration off Tuya (SmartLife) is done! My Gosund Smart Plugs and Gosund Wired Switches were able to be flashed to Tasmota (via Tuya-Convert). I also had a couple wall outlets that were able to be flashed. The non-flashable stuff was switched to Zigbee. My Firewalla no longer reports a lot of blocked calls back to China, and the number of "China to me" calls has also stopped. It's nice to know if the Internet drops I don't have to run around the house manually turning on/off devices!
Here is a thread I started regarding "Move Datadisk" and zwave taking a dump. Please have a look.
#zwave-archived message
Update: it seems like a reboot of HA OS makes the problem disappear for ~18 hours. So, I made an automation to do so daily. I'd rather have a solution, but a workaround will do... just as long I have reliability. Heck, that's why I offloaded onto a data disk in the first place.
Folks - looking for a hand getting the ASUS USB-BT500 hooked up to HASS OS running on ESXi 7.0.3 Update d.
I grabbed new rtl8761bu from the web but after jumping in to the supervisor OS the ro fs won't let me copy in new .bin files to /lib/firmware
The redirect config in ESXi is working ok with Frigate and the Coral that's hooked up to the other USB port
On boot the HASS OS is throwing stuff like "usb 1-1: device not accepting address 2, error -110"
Anyone pulled this off before?
afaik only the bt400 is supported
you cannot inject fw files into haos
might need to wait for a new OS version
Why hello there!
Any recommendations on best mic array to use with rhasspy?
Testing @honest mason
When you reply you can ping (look above the send button)
And when you turn it off it doesn't ping
Ahhhhh I see it
God I fucking hate discord...
Lol poor On 😭 🤣
Ups...
I suspect they're used to it by now
I bought a complete Minisforum GK50 fanless mini-pc with a Pentium N5030 processor (Amazon.de still in promo now 29-10-2022, for 211 euro for NL people) , so no barebone ,comes with M2-128GB and 8GB memory and with Windows-10-pro. I added an old 2.5inch HDD inside the box to the Sata connection. From the GK50-Windows-11-pro (I updated it first) with Balena Etcher I installed (via the URL) Home assistant (HA) with OS on the added HDD . Then restarted the GK50, pushed rapidly the ESC button to enter into the BIOS/UEFI (Megatrend). I changed the boot sequence to start with HA OS HDD. I had placed a reflashed Sonoff Zigbee plus USB stick into a free USB-port of the GK50. The GK50 comes up with HA and I can go to the (now) HA mini-server GK50 via my other PC via WebUI. The Sonoff connect's to Zigbee Home Assistant (ZHA). I added a few components to ZHA. Works OKE for me. The GK50 come with 2 LAN ports (a lot of foto's show only 1 ??) So my idea is to connect a P1-cable-to-RJ45 (for NL/Dutch smart power-/gas-meters) to the second LAN-port of the GK50 and try to get it working under HA for the data of Power production and Powe/gas consumption into this HA.
Will write a review on Tweakers.net (in Dutch) when I have time.
Home Assitant Hardware alternative for Raspberry PI
Just leaving this here...
Odd hardware request: anyone have a recommended small magnet for use with contact sensors? I need to fit it on the little lever for my sliding glass door lock
rare earth magnets on amazon/ebay?
Please don't. I'm @honest mason
I'm using two of these one on a Pi and one on an HP T520 that I loaded up with Ubuntu
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GVGMW59/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@jagged crypt I reckon i might use proxmox too
Will that make using usb hardware harder? I never used proxmox before
Bummer.. this page is just referring to testing done on other install methods?
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/bluetooth/#known-working-adapters
Oh no i was wrong
It should already work ootb
Bad usb cable? How did you pass it through?
You just add a PCI device and select the USB controller you want. That worked for Frigate anyway.
ESXi is being sus I think.. lsusb in the supervisor OS just shows a device address that feels like the controller's host address or something
I guess I need to try adding it to a different VM, hopefully easier to figure out on a windows guest
sec
RE cable - its direct attached to the back of the R630
Esxi does weird things with passthrough of HID devices. Maybe it thinks its such a HID device
It’s been a few years so this is frustratingly vague but I had terrible trouble with Bluetooth and esxi with a Linux guest, same version of Linux on the same nuc and same adaptor but bare metal was fine. So even if you could get fw loaded it might still be a bit shit.
Ugh annoying. Not showing up anywhere in Windows either
(It would just hang, and I’d have to unplug it and plug it back in)
Well. Maybe that's the shove I needed to move HA on to this Dell workstation I've got lying around.
Luckily its working with Frigate and the Coral which has been massively more CPU intensive.
It was the shove I needed to ditch esx (most of my stuff is in docker so was a waste of time having esx)
Yeah.. Sometimes I wonder why I'm running two hosts and a vcenter 🥲
Yeah that’s where I wanted to go 🤣 but between passthrough being flakey and the API being kinda sucky 😅
I guess technically I have a VMUG sub so I could actually get help from VMware about it...
Huh. I just figured out I already had a power bank from the newish category of “has normal ports and also has 4 integrated short cables (A, C, micro, lightning)”. https://www.isetchi.nl/producten/opladers/isetchi-4-in-1-magsafe-powerbank-20-000-mah-ingebouwde-oplaadkabels-universeel/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnvOaBhDTARIsAJf8eVPS66sujylzKDSbZL3dORdqBY5z8vgzOR8oZ3fbUa9rmb3-Td0X5J0aAlvFEALw_wcB . It appears to do pass through via charging on the usb C port and output on the USBC cable. What I will need to check is the power output capacity while this happens.
Sorry...
So I'm about as new as one can get. As summer is right on my doorstep in Australia I have some concerns regrading the temperature of.my house and my new server room. I am seeing all sorts of zigbee and wifi devices. With zigbee do I need some sort of special piece of hardware to translate between the devices and the hassio instance or is this just wifi but a special setup?
If so can you guys make some suggestions please
Zigbee is it’s own thing - a low power mesh network. There are several ways to get zigbee into hass, but all require extra hardware.
@mossy hemlock I'm using the sonoff ZigBee USB dongle version P (zbdongle-p) with the ZHA integration. No issues. The E version also works.
With a USB extension cable
I’m using the dongleP as well but with zigbee2mqtt and mosquitto, seconding the extension cable. 20 cm is hard required, 1 meter is better, and 2 meters is better yet.
I found https://youtu.be/RWzzNe5gm5s useful in deciding which of the three (!) zigbee integrations in hass I wanted.
Hey all, anyone ever built anything using a small electric winch? I made a system to suspend my clothes drying rack from the ceiling, and for the moment it's just manually lifted/lowered, but I'd like to find a small winch/motor with which I can make a winch, and make the whole system automatic...
People who got IKEA Tradfri buttons (the square shaped with on/off btns): i got 4 new pcs from ikea these days, 2 stop to work after some hours, after changing batteries and re-pairing they also won't work (also not the direct connections to the bulbs via group bindings).
anyone got those problems and was able to solve that?
I’m a total noob with this stuff, I have a Wi-Fi dimmable bulb In a lamp controlled with HA. I have an unused switch in the room, can I somehow make that into a physical dimmer? I was imagining a Wi-Fi dimmer that triggers an automation, or maybe if I switch to zigbee this would be easier?
A wifi switch or just a plain old switch? If it’s a wifi switch you could probably make it swap between dimness presets, if it’s a normal switch then you need so buy another component, like a Shelly connected relay, to convert the switch to a smart one.
Making it into a dimmer though, I haven’t done this long enough to be able to give a proper answer.
Haven't got up with messages, but no. It was one gui option and worked right out the box for me, and I've rebooted a couple times already 🙂
to add: Install the VM, plug in the usb stick, click on the VM, hardware tab, ADD-USB-DEVICE, choose "use usb vendor/device id", select the ITEAD deivice, shutdown the VM, and restartart it. Done.
How feasible dimming is depends on some details. For example, if it is a smart witch designed for dimming but with nothing connected to it, that is probably feasible via an automation. If it is a smart switch that is for on and off, it coyld be possible if you get buttin press and release events. For a dumb switch, not so easy.
Right now it’s a normal switch that does nothing. I was looking at Shelly (dimmable relays) and was unsure if it’d work if the switch wasn’t actually active
@candid thistle for dimming you have a couple options. either buy a smart dimmer and use a dumb bulb, or buy a smart bulb and dimmer, or buy a smart switch (not dimmer) and smart bulb and then control dimming via automations like button hold down. the first option or second option is the best solution
or shelly to do the same thing with existing switches of course
i dont like the idea of shellys in the walls myself.. i'd rather do zigbee or zwave light switches and bulbs
But while shelly with a dumb swutch could probably be made to work, it might not be convient, as it only provides a single input value.
Using groups/associations to pair a smart bulb with a smart dimmer of the same type woyld provide the best experience, since it will work even if the hub (home assistant) is down.
yep
wifi bulbs are cool if you just need a couple and want cheap rgbw-cct options though
i bought two gu10 bulbs flashed with WLED for a bathroom and they work great
then i dim with automations like time of day or double tap on smart light switch
So this would be going the zigbee route? And changing the switch and bulb to be zigbee ones? Do these work if the hub is down because they are apart of a mesh network? The hub “programs” bulbs to respond to switches I guess?
If you utilize zigbee groups properly then yes.
Why what’s wrong with Shellys? Have you looked at something like the 1PM Plus for example?
Although i have more experience with the zwave equivlent, byt zwave bulbs are rare.
for one they're wifi
And Bluetooth, but so?
I’ll look into zigbee more, I’m a bit concerned about range since this would be the first set of devices and my hub would be located 2 floors down (in a townhome). Is there a recommended resource for someone new?
i also dont see a reason to use them over light switches and bulbs and being able to bind them
with both zigbee and zwave the meshes need to be setup properly with ideally a coordinator/controller centrally located and then multiple powered repeater devices (like light switches) to expand the mesh
in situations where home assistant pi or whatever is in a corner or something.. people will use a network attached controller talking to home assistant over lan
such as a zigbee PoE coordinator*
I am a big fan of making sure the house will continue to function even if the home assistant (or other hub) is offline, which is why using binding/associations, or smart switches with dumb bulbs is impirtant to me. Obviously mast automations cannot work without the hub, but if your lights are stuck permenantly off, that is a problem
I have 12 smart switches, and only 4 smart bulbs.
People think that is odd, i want guests to be able to operate the lights, and avoid having switching that must be left always on, etc.
it's not odd it's just not complete
once you throw more money at it it'll be smart + guest friendly
i went zigbee bulbs and zwave switches cuz i didnt like zigbee switch options so i cant really do much binding or direct associations
but i knew that going into it
Smart switches alone are enough for smart. Bulbs are just a bonus, or for lamps that use built in knobs. But many people go all smart bulb with no smart switches, whuch just seems wrong to me
i solved the "Switch" problem by using motion detectors everywhere. So we don't actually use switches except in the bathroom (ran out of motion detectors). if we lose in house connectivity, then the power switches work fine. Don't the smart switches allow physical on/off to still work in some fashion?
not if you have them in smart bulb mode
it disables the relays so the smart bulbs always have power
they still work if you bind them /direct association for zwave tho
My house I leave smart bulb mode off, so the smart switches work like normal switches
by "smart switches" we mean controllers in the walls, right? IE, the physical switch interfaces with something that is "drive-by-wire" not physically engaging electrical circuits directly.
i wanted smart bulbs and switches because i wanted to be able to dim/color change / color temp change with automations and multi switch presses
smart switch is literally replacing the switch with one with a zigbee or zwave chip in it and they also act as repeaters for the mesh (in theory, some zigbee stuff doesnt do what the spec is supposed to require)
Color and color temp is the main thing that you need smart bulbs for if you already have smart switches. You could do the automation dimming with just smart dimmers. (Like my Inovelli switches, including my new inovelli blues).
the inovelli blue are also $50 a piece and currently having issues with both zha/z2m but that'll be fixed as time goes on
$$$
they seem like a good option tho
yeah, link me a product to look at (I rent, so all my stuff doesn't involve modifications in the wall)
that is what we are talking about
for renting if you arent there long term it's not really a good solution
Is there something similar as a drop in replacement for a three way switch
Simple Direct 3-Way & 4-Way: Still no add-on and use it in larger set-ups for multi-point control. Wires like the ZEN26 model with quicker and easy installation guaranteed. (Neutral wire required)
that's on the page i linked lol
zigbee has similar options like the inovelli blue
Lol sorry
honestly i have a hard time suggesting zwave if you want both bulbs and switches
google zigbee rgbw bulbs then google zwave rgbw bulbs and see what kind of options you have lol
I was thinking zigbee, replacing a few switches on the main floor to fill out the mesh network, then doing that dimmer switch for the top floor lamp
zigbee bulbs are much cheaper, many more options, and you can get a lot more cheap sensors with zigbee vs zwave
Estimated delivery is the end of December. ^ inovelli blue
also im not sure how many zwave switches are available that do NOT require a neutral
The blues have more nice features than many other zigbee switch offerings, and the reds are out of stock through at least end of year (while I got my pre ordered blues a week ago, and when I ordered them there was not yet even any plans yet for a next generation red).
yea
if the blues were out when i bought my zooz i might've gone that route
even with the $50 price tag..
i might eventually replace one or two switches with those blues and move them over to dumb areas like a closet
where i just need on/off
i also have led strips controlled my WLED (wifi) using esp8266/esp32 in most rooms for ambient / bias lighting so even with binding i still would be doing hass automations for motion and light switch triggers
not sure if this belongs in hardware or add-ons, but is running influxDB/grafana on a RaspberryPi with an SD card a Bad Idea?
Yeah, I was hoping for specific recommendations because there is a billion options
@molten obsidian yes(ish). It will trash your sd card into failure, sooner or later.
I'm trying proxmox on my old macbook pro, it seems super nice so far.
idk if i've ever seen a guy not like proxmox tbh
i've still never played with it
I’ve got a Mac mini that maybe I should move things too. Also a QNAP and a Synology as possibilities, but I suspect the Mac mini will probably be the best choice?
Anything is gonna be better than a pi with an sd card
Yeah, I was hesitant to trust a pi long term for anything “production” in my house, but I had one and it was super easy to get up and going.
what's the most elegant solution to usb power wall mounted motion sensors?
I was thinking a usb keystone jack in the wall, next to a usb wall outlet
Imo it’s not about trust with a pi- with a pi4 ssd boot it’s pretty stable. It’s just slow and you’re limited with addons and webui loading speed with cameras and stuff
well, after some USB swapping fun, now I have a vm running on my mac mini. that was easier than expected
Haos runs nicely on virtualbox
mine keeps locking up for some reason 😦
Do you know if there are any bluetooth buttons that work with HA? Just a simple button that will send pressed event to HA is fine. If it would use AAA batteries, that would be perfect, but not required.
There are Hue buttons - can probably use those?
looks nice, but are you sure it works with HA without philips GW? I have the GW, but i'm trying to simplify my setup as much as possible and make it as reliable as possible
Grrr grrrrget
I've spent all morning researching hardware for rhasspy sattelites... Raspberrypi zeros are out of stock everywhere... Esp32 modules are in stock but I'm not sure if I can do the rest do get them working... M5 stack I just don't know if it'll work...
I'm going around in circles and need to vent
Does anybody at all have any idea or a BOM/parts list for a decent rhasspy sattelite that I can just sodding buy...
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/hue/ does not mention bluetooth at all
I use https://rpilocator.com/ recently to get a Pi4 for hassio, took me about a week of just keeping an eye on the site's twitter feed to grab one. Does that help?
if you look at https://twitter.com/rpilocator you can see that stock does come and go quite often
yeah I've been keeping an eye on it aswell
Context was rhasspy satellite machines, though. Not HA as such.
Does anyone else have the issue that the Tuya TZE200 TRVs are automatically setting its heating setpoint to 16°C all the time?
I ended up buying these: https://thepihut.com/products/atom-echo-smart-speaker-dev-kit @still sapphire we'll see how it goes
cc @hollow merlin
Hi, I have an existing ceiling light that goes on 100% when first turned on, and if you toggle off/on right after it goes to 80% and then finally to 60%. Does anyone know if I can use a fibaro zwave switch to control this is an elegant way? Trying to search for someone with a similar setup, but haven't found anything
Do you think Fire HD 10 7th gen 2017 tablets are too old to get for dedicated fully kiosk wall tablets?
They're available for $25 USD refurbished atm
Yep! If you're at the level of thinking about grafana and influxDb you've far outgrown anything a device with an SD card will provide for you imo
still comes with a 30 day return window right?
i have the 2021 model with fully kiosk and i think it wakes up and loads screen pretty fast and navigates through dashboards fast too.. but i dont know if i'd be okay if it was any slower
Hi there, I'm looking to purchase some LED strips to use with home assistant, are there any current favorites or suggestions? I'm also looking to get a smart light switch of some sort but not sure if that needs to integrate just yet
diy led strips are really so far above the competition it's not even funny
Ohh ok
it's a bit of a learning curve
Like hooked up with an esp32?
Nice, I've done one of those before
ws8187 or something I think it was
i just made a couple of those with WLED flashed to an esp8266 for each
using ws2812b rgb strips
you might want to look at sk6812 strips instead
Any suggestions for a decent smart light switch
they are also 5v but they are RGBW
Ohhh cool
so dedicated white channel instead of r / g / b making a "white"
but they're like 3x more expensive lol
kinda depends man
you really only have two options for the technology: zigbee or zwave
you can get wifi ones (dont do this) , or you can use dumb light switches with something in the wall with a relay like a shelly, but for "smart switches" you want zigbee or zwave
Ok cool, so the problem I'm looking to solve is that I have a light switch in my office that is gonna be hard to get too, so I want to try and install an inline switch of some kind, then get a physical button that can tell home assistant or alexa or whatever to turn that inline switch on. Preferably something that runs on a battery so that I can just stick it up on my wall near the door 😄
I've seen online some switches that actually replace the physical switch, I'm cool with that if I can also get the relay to go on/off from something remote
Like a physical button
I guess another esp32/esp8266 kind of integration could work for that
As long as the physical switch can integrate properly
Ideally I would have a few buttons, one for the LED bulkheads I have on the ceiling and then some for my planned LED strips
So you either get a dimmer or a regular smart switch and then that can be configured different ways based on conf options
You either have smart bulbs and a smart switch in smart bulb mode so it doesn’t kill power to bulbs when turning off
Then you’d setup whatever automations you want inside home assistant to control things other than just the bulbs associated with that switch
I.e. I turn my light switch on in kitchen and it turns smart bulbs on and also my Wi-Fi led strips running wled
Ahh ok cool, that makes sense.
Thing is the lights I have are these: https://www.diy.com/departments/shoreline-daylight-integrated-led-batten-strip-light-40w-4000lm-l-1-52m/5014838002506_BQ.prd
So smart bulbs aren't an option for me really
I guess these just have LED strips in them and some kind of power convertor anyway
So I could have one apart and swap the strip out and add a microcontroller maybe
Sounds like a lot of work but yeah probably
The other option is something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/COLOROCK-Universal-Automation-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B08RD4W89S/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=3EGIFHVICVVI1&keywords=govee+light+switch&qid=1667139056&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjc2IiwicXNhIjoiMS4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=govee+light+switch%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&smid=A8I5MZ4Q9Q7OE
And just leave the physical switch on I guess
It's gonna be hard to reach anyways
Don’t buy that
But I'm not sure if these will integrate with HA
Buy a Shelly or something not govee