#general-chat
1 messages · Page 74 of 1
Hey guys, on the 2-factor sign-in deal, as far as I read the setup procedure, I must have a "smart" phone that can read a QR code, and neither my wife or I have one. True? Thanks.
https://learn.adafruit.com/how-to-set-up-2-factor-authentication-on-adafruit/using-the-authy-app
looks like U2F security key (for computer) might still be supported (but not SMS)
oh, but it requires a previous 2FA setup of some other kind?
Authy is available for MacOS
random question but does anyone know about nitrile O rings and IPA
if IPA will destroy the O Rings
i ordered 2k o rings 
and i want to build a mini engine cause bored
but i need the o rings to seal the fuel lines without them breaking
websearch < nitrile o-rings isopropyl alcohol > ; lots of compatibility charts; tldr: could be better
OH YEAH HAHA
i forgot google exists
😭
I would suspect it wouldn't be a problem, especially if you lubricate the o-rings with silicone grease.
I have moved house!
i tried to move my house once. too heavy. need a bigger forklift.
And to be fork lift certified
a wee box building for my cnc stuff. city said im allowed to add a new one. (already have one nicer shed)
trying to figure out if i can do it really cheap and fast. i found a used garage door for $400, designing around that.
Nice shed!
thanks. too bad its too cold and nasty now to build it. might need to wait til spring
I am participating in the circuitpython-dev channel. I find it hard to interact because all of the “GitHub BOT” posts.
Is there a way to mute the bot?
can you put the "user" on ignore? not ideal i guess. but might work. i just checked there and see what you mean. its 80% git bot
there usually isn't much conversation in the dev channel. a lot of it is done on their slack or github comments. the dev channel is definitely where new board devs should go for build help. just ignore the github bot updates if you're not interested in reading about the latest developments.
@ebon dew - it can be quite difficult to ignore so many posts and to find the humans. There are a few contributors who try hard to help those of us looking for assistance.
The bot traffic really should be its own channel - perhaps we could request a new channel “circuitpython-dev-help” for humans.
i've seen other projects put the github bot traffic into its own channel, and it seems to work well
sometimes devs comment in the channel about one of the gitbot posts
like, clarifying info about an issue or PR
I can see why it's there, those bot items are the core of the work for many of the folks who hang out there
Commenting on BOT content is fine but there is legitimate and valuable human content that is getting seriously lost in the bot noise.
TBF: I got my answers and can leave it all behind … but I fell badly for the next bloke who needs help like I did.
If there is a desire for board makers to add CircuitPython support for their hardware, then I would suggest “help-with-circuitpython-dev”
WE ARE LIVE! SHOW AND TELL! https://youtu.be/9ppSq02hLRA
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ASK AN ENGINEER 11/29/2023
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----------------------------------------...
This is a good in the weeds topic for next weeks meeting
Introducing:
✨ Scopin' Sans ✨
A open source typeface JUST for hardware nerds.
See your text as it was meant to be seen (as serial data on an oscilloscope)... 🧵
💖 46
@stuck moth - I often find myself needing a weed whacker 😜
Not trying to sound like a PITA - I appreciate that Adafruit at least requires 2FA for high demand items, but can you ~~guys ~~ folks (who said an old wolf cant learn new words?) consider implementing a captcha for the checkout process of items that are frequently scalped? By the time I had generated my 2FA code the RPI5 stock went from something to nothing and it's just incredibly frustrating because I need to evaluate the feasibility and cost of porting a RTOS to the Pi 5 vs just using legacy hardware or a different SoC/SoM - meanwhile most of these units are being put on eBay.
And it's plain as day that the issue is botting more than anything.
I had the same exact problem on Digikey as well, where the stock went from 600 to 0 by the time I got to the payment page.
The usual approach to this is a timed cart: once something is placed in a cart, it is "reserved" by that buyer as long as they check out in a specified period of time. However, implementing this is somewhat complicated.
I think it's the product of a deranged serial killer.
some password managers can manage 2fa for you as well (I know 1 password does). That'd make it faster to generate and enter upon login.
I mean, I could also just set something up to refresh the page every few seconds and generate the 2FA as well, and check out if it's in stock.
Maybe I should. Seems like the only way I'll ever get one at MSRP .
Then I could even continue doing it, sell them on eBay and frustrate someone else who needs one.
My point though is the fact that people have these automated systems hammering it, and most of them are just reselling them.
A story old as time.
Please don't. That behavior leads to bans from Adafruit.
Are you waiting for an email about a restock or doing it during a livestream?
No. I just sometimes refresh the product page and hope for the best.
Anything beyond that requires far too much effort.
I'm pretty sure they are putting them in stock during ask an engineer
I will check it out. Thank you.
?showtimes
Desk of Ladyada - Sunday Evening
JP's Product Pick of the Week - 4pm ET Tuesdays
3D Hangouts - 11am ET Wednesdays
Show & Tell - 7:30pm ET Wednesdays
Ask an Engineer - 8pm ET Wednesdays
John Park's Workshop - 4pm ET Thursdays
Deep Dive w/ Foamyguy - 5pm ET Fridays
FoamyGuy's CircuitPython Stream - 11am ET Saturdays
KeePass does.
Thank you! - this refers to cutting D10 trace on Airlift shield, and jumper wire to D3 for CS, which does not now conflict with a TFT shield on top. 😀 Testing on Metro M4.
Update: cutting Airlift D10->CS trace deactivates D10 completely, don't know why. After trial and error, I jumpered the TFT D2 pin to it's D10 pin, and TFT works fine with TFT CS set to D2.
I pulled out my trusty blink LED tester hooked to D10, no power anymore. Mystery to me.
I
Pic of the above setup...
Does anyone have a good YouTube video on explaining in detail how to do SMT soldering the correct way for complete beginners? I find lot of video that are just bragging but not explaining 🙂
It might not be super explanatory but I learned a bit by watching how Lady Ada did her prototype builds for boards. There are a number of videos that Adafruit has posted that of product buildup and testing
it also very much depends on which components you plan to use. If you only use 1206/0805 parts and SO packages (which have 1.27 mm pitch), it is not that hard, even for a beginner (but of course, be prepared to ruin several boards before you get the hang of it).
If you plan to use TQFN/TQFP packages, with 0.5mm pitch, it is much harder.
So I have this problem with adafruit who is forcing me to pay VAT taxes, then keeps the money for itself, not even attempting to forward the money to the relevant govt agency. So of course when shipments arrive, I have to pay this VAT tax, in effect paying it twice, then beg adafruit to refund the taxes who then wants me to prove I paid it again... This isn't exactly good business ethos to pretend you collect money for a govt agency then keep it until customer begs for it. Support is helping with refund, but this needs to be fixed, unless it is a deliberate business practice...
How to reach out to someone willing to fix this problem?
support@ is the correct place
I thought it was, I explained the problem at length weeks ago and yet was again hit with the same problem this week... support isn't answering whether the problem is being looked into, just willing to help with the remediation (refund).
Refunds can be cheaper than expensive dev time
well, since you are refunding money you collected for absolutely no service or product provided, it can even make a profit if some customers don't ask for a refund
great business perspective...
Enter the intricate world of surface mount components and learn to solder on a smaller scale. Once equipped with the right tools and a bit of patience, you'll be soldering minuscule parts like a machine.
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com
Subscribe to Adafruit on YouTube: http://...
@trim sandal - I see a lot of people hand soldering SMT and I give them credit. I found using paste and a stencil to be infinitely easier for me. I do all my prototypes that way and I “reflow” using a cheap hotplate.
Great didn’t know about this
Hey guys - I'm trying to repair a turntable for my mother, recently got into electronics repair, got a whole little station going etc.
I have this motor that wasn't working properly, I think it might be the motor controller circuit thing
Is there a way to test it to see if it's indeed dead?
The DC motor spins when I apply 12v with my voltage injection tool.
The capacitor in that circuit is also good.
Oop, nevermind, figured it out. Inject 14v at VCC then check motor for 12v, which it has. Hmm
That's how you do it, try to narrow down things with hypotheses and experiments
The motor is often controlled by both a start/stop button and the tone arm (swing the tone arm over the record and the motor starts). Maybe it’s a simple fault at one of those switches.
Also: you said the motor wasn’t working properly- what specifically was wrong?
So in this unit, the on/off switch is within the tone arm itself apparently, although I was unable to get it working still.
The motor just doesn't spin even though it's getting 10.8v. It must not be receiving some kind of signal it needs to turn on.
I tore a trace off by accident when reinstalling the regulator but fixed it using some wire under the microscope.
As dodgy as it looks, when using my voltage injection tool, I can get the motor to spin as intended, even after the repair.
at the end when I was giving up, I decided to try to reflow the board using hot air
then I heard what sound liked popcorns popping a few times, I didn't see anything, maybe it was just the board cracking with the heat
but I'm wondering if some of those tiny square capacitors popped
Hi, has anyone done the math or more likely read something about 8bit controller vs 32 bit controller. Meaning the time difference between giving 32 bit controller a 32 bit operation and than giving the 8 bit controller same 32 bit operation
I think it probably depends on what exact microcontrollers and what exact instruction you're thinking about
#include <stdint.h>
int main(){
volatile uint32_t a = 10;
volatile uint32_t b = 5;
volatile uint32_t c = a + b;
}
(I will only paste the assembly here for the line with the actual addition.)
ARM GCC 13.2 (32-bit)
ldr r2, [r7, #12]
.loc 1 8 31
ldr r3, [r7, #8]
.loc 1 8 29
add r3, r3, r2
.loc 1 8 31
str r3, [r7, #4]
.loc 1 9 1
I think the .loc are just some debugging stuff. But you can see there are two ldr load instructions, one add and then one store.
AVR GCC 13.2 (8 bit)
//load a:
ldd r20,Y+1
ldd r21,Y+2
ldd r22,Y+3
ldd r23,Y+4
.loc 1 8 31
//load b:
ldd r24,Y+5
ldd r25,Y+6
ldd r26,Y+7
ldd r27,Y+8
.loc 1 8 29
//add:
add r24,r20
adc r25,r21
adc r26,r22
adc r27,r23
.loc 1 8 31
//store result:
std Y+9,r24
std Y+10,r25
std Y+11,r26
std Y+12,r27
As we can see here, it takes 4 instructions to load a, 4 instructions to load b, 4 instructions to add and then 4 instructions to store the result
On AVR there's the "AVR instruction set manual" that tells you how long each instruction takes. I would assume that there is something similar on ARM.
For example, on an Atmega328P the ldd instructions would take 2 clock cycles each, then add and adc take 1 each and std take 2 each again.
Afaik other stuff like multiplication, division (how long that takes) also depends on the MCU and what its hardware can do.
Same thing with flash access.
Also, the 32 bit MCU might just be clocked way faster than the 8 bit one
@vestal plume
https://developer.arm.com/documentation/ddi0432/c/programmers-model/instruction-set-summary Ah here it is for ARM cortex M0+ as an example.
Each ldr takes two clock cycles. The add 1 and the str 2 again.
So way faster 😆
On factories are rj45 seriously all crimped by labour? All I can find is about it.
Probably solder flux boiling, that's common
What do you mean?
I mean how are cables even displaced in the right position before being soldered/crimped?
they have robots for all that. cut, strip, spread, crimp. all in about 100 milliseconds probably
there might be special connectors for 'machine" crimping vs hand as well that make the process easier
This is a fully automatic ethernet cable production line. It can process wire cutting, stripping, twisting, crimping, CCD, sorting, pulling, internet cable connector inserting, testing, and taking finished products automatically.
Equipment function: automatic cutting, stripping, twisting, crimping, CCD, sorting, pulling, inserting internet cabl...
Referring to WavePusher's hearing popping sounds while reflowing some solder joints.
anyone got free time?
I have no idea how to fix my pico
yes you have seen me before asking this before and yes it's been about a week stuck on this
and yes I have become desperate to just ask like a loser in a discord chat.
does anyone have a good way of writing some code kinda like server and client where an esp32 for example can resolve an IP from a desktop server
like if i wrote some code into an app on my PC that hosted a lil server and then i connect the ESP32s to my network running the right code, to get them to find the server
cause i dont want to make it so you have to hard code an IP into the library
so far i have this but obviously it will run a small server
any compliant esps or picos or whatever need to find out where this server lives on the network
idk if im making sense
i know truenas core manages to make a domain name on the network but i dont know how to do that and it seems a lil too cumbersome and it could be blocked by firewalls and such
for extra info, it's kinda like a management system for ur networked devices, you can make custom function types that will be pushed as buttons to the management panel
so you'd set it up with some info like device name, maybe a category or something
and then you can create kinda like FreeRTOS tasks but not really
like a freeRTOS task but in a wrapper
which will show up as a button
so you can terminate devices, pause their processing, check data
have anything upload itself to the panel into it's own lil section
there is an existing protocol called "DHCP" that does this
dhcp assigns an IP address
My brain is so used to DHCP being in the context of “dhcp server” and I had to think for a moment like “dhcp is a protocol?”
doesn't give you the location of an unknown server that you only know the port for
yes yes it is
I’m aware it is, I just never think of it in that context
Anyway, trying to find servers based solely on ports seems a bit too ambiguous to be useful
yeah it's like http though
when ur speaking you dont say use the http you say use the http protocol

is that mdns? 🤔 That's also used by for example spotify to find devices in the local network
You can set specific ips within the dhcp, or make an association using the mac adress if that's what you're asking , I am not familiar with freertos
Or are you asking about the physical location of the device?
Ladies and gentlemen, my 2009 dell pc, has unfortunately passed away
It no longer werks
I am sorry for your loss
so simple lol - might try to put it into a gameboy-like housing or something
AAAAH
Please put a heatsink
Right that was my next question, on the metal part or on that black part haha
On the black part
While testing it didn’t seem to heat up at all, but I do have a heat sink
Gotcha thank u
Ohhhh good to know
Funny enough I assumed it was the other way around
And this is for rasp pi zero 2 correct? Idk if the other models have a different configuration on the board
Yes
Awesome thank u
Np
i used discovery packets
it worked
but for some reason when i implement it into the actual GUI app
everything breaks
visual studio throws 10000000 errors
what's that?
basically you just ping the broadcast address on a port and wait for a response
obviously im going to be more secure and require some authentication
before you can chat to the server
but it's all i could think of
and it worked
and everybody who has ever done C++ networking knows
it's a pain in the backside

so a custom thing? Or some established protocol?
networking more like notworking 😝
RIGHTTT
it's pretty typical
it's not really a protocol
sort of is
the last entry in your subnet is a broadcast address
which the switch will send the packet to every device
and if you have a server setup to listen on that port
and reply
then you can find the right IP
i mean i could have used ARP and made you hard code a mac address but i think thats icky
hardcoding anything besides ports is icky
ah, nice
I thought there definitely have to be some sort of standardized protocols for this kind of thing but no idea if using them would give any benefit since only your own software needs to understand it anyway 🤔
yeah i mean im using the in house port range
but im gunna make it customisable in the app
because i put money on the fact that someone else is already using that port for something and if they use my thing
then it will break everything

and for like
10 lines of code
it's not hard to do
that's the thing... would it be possible to also discover the port that way? 🤔 Like have the PC program choose a random port that is free
i dont think so
but for the ESP thing im making it into a library
and you'd have to init it anyway
maybe if you use some kinda standard discovery protocol 🤔
i mean i could make it respond to pings on port 80 to distribute the correct port
it'll be encrypted traffic anyways and it wont reply to any pings that it cant decrypt
what do you think about the UI style for the desktop app?
needs one of those generic corporate illustrations with the weird looking people and the error text "We are currently searching for devices" 😝
hahaha
that's only there for my sanity
it will scan automatically whilst it's loading
and if it doesn't find anything imma put a massive
:/

blue screen and :( 😝
but i think it will be pretty cool when it works
the idea is
for each device it finds
it makes section
the device tells the app what it can do
so it will send some json
like
{
"name": "ESP32 Light Controller",
"Description": "Controls my amazing lights",
"buttons": [
{
"title": "Light On",
"func_id": 0
},
{
"title": "Light Off",
"func_id": 1
}
]
}```
then when you press the light on button it will send a packet to that controller
with the ID
of what to run
once it has the ID
the board gets the packet
finds the function
and runs it
along with some that will be there
like a reset
which will just do the EN / RUN pin
pause which will just do a while loop that waits for the signal to unpause
stuff like that
imma add sliders to change brighnesses and stuff
colours
which you can implement into neopixel stuff
oh nice
yeah it's a neat lil thing
well it will be
just C++ doesn't like me
so it makes my threads break

rewrite in rust
port to rp2040
im just so used to C++ 
NO
THAT SDK IS THE WORK OF THE DEVIL
I HATE IT SO MUCH
same, I've never used Rust 😆
including RP2040 😝
yes
exactly
but the pico sdk
is satan spawn
if i had to port to that then picos would never have support for anything i make
i dont mind espidf
that's fine
but the pico sdk is just
icky
why? I only used it a bit but idk didn't find it terrible
skill issue 😝
it is
but one i dont have to deal with
cause platformio is just
the greatest
thing ever invented
im sorry but people who use cpp using namespace std; shouldn't be allowed to code
they should have the whole gcc taken away from them
Why?
because it's disgusting
By that logic anyone who uses the namespace of any library they define should as well
no, just omitting the writing of the namespace is icky
Why?
You’re fine to have that opinion
Look, I work on a project at the company I work for that does namespace declarations and it’s just fine
Again, you’re fine to have that opinion
okay what if you wrote a function
called move
or you had a project
called atomic
then you've got
your constructor for example
called atomic
you've also got std::atomic
the compiler is smart but not smart enough to deal with that
or you're making a game and you call the movement function
move
First of all, why would you willingly name things after cstd functions
Second, many of these still require you to include it in the file
i guarantee you don't know every single std function
you'd do it on accident
and if you're in a big file
and you include it
then you have to change all your
I guarantee you that a majority of the ones you expect have to be included
And the compiler will correct you
sometimes
unless its unclear
and other compilers might play differently
and the same compiler might play differently depending on the rest of the code
But again, feel free to have that opinion. It’s just that, an opinion.
it's 100% icky
In your opinion
and the majority of others
anyways enough of that
i hate mutexes

and threading
but i love threading at the same time
amirite

i have to multi thread because the thing im doing rn
needs a socket server
and it just stalls the GUI
otherwise
i need to write the protocol and i cba

it's for controlling multiple mcus on a network
(I hate making them)
i got this so far
but i cant seem to make the socket data go across
without stalling the gui
it's annoying
template <typename T>
class SafeQueue
{
public:
void push(const T& value);
T pop();
private:
std::queue<T> queue_;
std::mutex mutex_;
std::condition_variable condition_;
};```
i made a thread safe queue
I’d still make a cli tool instead of a gui. Sure I could build a website, use JavaScript to be fun
Then use asynchronous polling
i like to torture myself
as you can see
doing a gui
and sockets
and multi threading
in C++

If you really want to torture yourself, use Java
A very useful socket library
And data pipelines
I mean, you could use boost
talking to the windows api
Boost sockets
Boost is so nice though
Boost is pretty straightforward to work with
i cant even get vcpkg working anymore
it worked then it broke
well i already have the socket thing setup
The documentation is nice too
it's working
{
"name": "ESP32 Light Controller",
"Description": "Controls my amazing lights",
"buttons": [
{
"title": "Light On",
"func_id": 0
},
{
"title": "Light Off",
"func_id": 1
}
]
}```
i just need to write a protocol
to ask the mcu
for information about itself
it send that
or something like that
then it turns it into a struct
which goes into a vector
if it doesn't already exist
then i can load them into the GUI
hopefully without lag
i already gave myself a memory leak at 4mb / s

i fixed that though, i forgot to close the sockets when they were detached
like my braincells
yes
Anyone have any suggestions on very small hdmi screens?
I want to make ‘game boy-like’ housing for my retro pi and trying to figure out what my best option for screens would be
For screens I use https://panelook.com
A little bit annoying is the pricing, but usefull to sort stuff out
30K+ LCD panel models, 32K+ LCD panel datasheets, 10M+ pcs panel stocks, 180+ panel sizes, 100+ parametres, 70+ LCD panel brands, 30+ LCD panel applications.
does anyone know how to update for the new twitch api, on the adafruit twitch On-Air SIgn ?
waveshare has some quite small hdmi screen for pi
I don't specifically have an update for that but I did put in a PR that fixes the twitch api example due to breaking changes. It hasn't been approved yet.
Oh actually the PR was approved and didn't notice. https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_CircuitPython_Requests/blob/main/examples/requests_api_twitch.py
Oh it looks like those on Air sign learn guides are for Arduino. Sorry, I only updated it for Circuit Python.
4140 annealed. Roughing: 26500rpm, 0.38mm step over, 6.35mm depth, 1800mm/m. 3mm 4 flute NaCo coated end mill.
The idea here is to use sandvik's recommended settings for "my" machine, despite my machine absolutely NOT being meant to cut alloy steel. Now to be clear, this is no aliexpress machine or floppy shapeoko, but it is still far out of it...
@ebon dew thanks you for the post, that is even better as i have more rp2040 laying around then arduinos so it works out for me.
First they changed the name of hte API from kraken to helix so you'll want to change that.
and it ssems there's a broadcast type endpoint to see if a stream is live or not.
thanks again for the info dj
Over in circuitpython_dev, there's posts regarding espidf.memory error in CP9 when reading HTTPS sites. I posted my questions about this error here some time back. I've reverted my boards to CP8.2.8 that do reach https, and they work OK. Hoping there's some progress on this issue. No worries. Thanks!
thanks - CP 9.0.0 is alpha. We appreciate the testing but it does have bugs
I know you can buy DIY arcade sticks everywhere, but does anyone know if it’s possible to buy an extremely small set of buttons that could fit a Game boy shell? Or would that require me to find a PCB and a second pi to hook up to the pi that is running retropie?
Have painted a living room and kitchen 2 coats. Living room is nice with 2 but the kitchen was pink so it needs 4 coats of what I have. Some organisation made and my desk setup (waiting for internet activation on the 4th which technically is now but I guess there's some config that starts on the 4th and go live could be any time on the 4th
Sleeping on a floor really is the worst at this age, I'm using pillows for my hips and ribs to save some of the pains lol
You mean the button caps or the push buttons themselves or the full assembly? You could 3d print caps
ew -- i would have try to go with one of those one-coat primers that supposedly prevents bleed-through, but if you were working with what was on-hand 🙁 ugh
Yeh I've painted once before with brand paint and 2 coats was lovely, this was a "paint pack" given to me as part of the lease agreement. It's "contractors Matt white" which is totally fine it just needs extra coats. Also I should use it and every room will have a base to go on now if I decide to make a feature wall it won't take a minute after this
Desk of Ladyada - Moar Sample Sunday, Camera PCBs, and ADV7611 https://youtu.be/gmr0_KeOq9Y
Final production PCBs for pyCamera board and samples including speakers, n00ds, and LED strips. They're designing a TFP401 HDMI to RGB adapter replacement using ADV7611, which offers I2S output. "The Great Search" focuses on finding reliable microSD cards for industrial use, exploring options with power-loss-protection and understanding SD card ...
I think I mean the button not the caps - I want to make a controller small enough to fit into my game boy housing but unsure if I’m getting in over my head
It just seems so straight forward and out of the box with a DIY arcade stick but unsure if it would be far more complicated if I wanted to just hook up some buttons to my raspberry pi - I’m new to this and I’m unsure what a good starting point would be for something like this
I haven't done it myself but this looks relatively simple enough https://learn.adafruit.com/retro-gaming-with-raspberry-pi/adding-controls-hardware
instead of using the larger arcade buttons or joysticks you'd just use smaller ones. This also links into "PiGRRL" project breakdowns though those actually disassemble an existing SNES controller clone to use parts from.
Maybe that'll be helpful to start looking into, or someone else might have a better idea.
Thank u, I will investigate o: !
hello all! i recently started in the world of adafruit feather... I adquired an esp34-s2 with tft... i used it to measure the height a water rocket can reach, and that was pretty awesome... all the kids at my kid's school were amazed!!
now... i would like to hear of possible other cool examples and utilities for this tiny board.... any idea?
Hi, there seems to be an error in this document: https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/111181
With PB23 pin, there should be S1.3, not S1.2.
On the learn guide for the Feather M4 express, you can click the Feedback link on the left to let Adafruit know to fix it: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m4-express-atsamd51
for all of them starting to show up
the protocol works and it's async
so no processor mess
Poe injectors have two ports: data in, and data out+power, is the data in port limited in inputs? I mean doesn't output anything? I am having struggles to detect that port while being connected
You get all sorts of buttons from through hole to surface mount. You could just get some through hole buttons and they come in all sizes from 6mm up. Then you would wire it to whatever computer you are using. You can got example connect a button to ground and a pin on a raspberry pi GPIO then in code you listen for the press and broadcast it as a game controller which can be used to play games with
@dusty citrus data is bi-directional on both ports, one just also supplies power
is there a fediverse youtube?
I mostly just host videos for my own enjoyment, and the whole adblocker thing is driving me to consider self-hosting
A little bit offtopic but I want a help with my home networking, I am using 2 router.
My primary router is connected with my pc and gateway is 192.168.0.1 and my 2nd router gateway is 192.168.0.2
Primary router has DHCP server enabled. The problem I want to talk about is, I am using pihole on my docker on my laptop. I want my 2nd router to provide adblocker type facilities. I changed its DNS on my 2nd router to my pihole address but it is not working. My pihole doesn't have any problem because if I add custom dns on each device separately, It works. I do not want to add this separately and I want it to work as soon as I connect to my 2nd router.
Can Anyone help me?
Yes, there is PeerTube: https://joinpeertube.org/
Give Router 2 a static IP of 192.168.0.2 but make a subnet with DHCP host set to 192.168.1.0/24. All devices connected to your pihole will be coming from a different subnet of 192.168.1.x and will default DNS/DHCP to that IP.
Look up some youtube videos on how to setup Pihole for subnets.
within 4 days i've almost got version 1.0.0 of my MCU manager up and running
moment of truth, will it compile after writing the changes to run arbitrary functions by an ID programmatically based on a pregenerated ID given at compile time

via UDP

IT WORKS
OMG IT WORKS
WOAHHHHHHH
next step is to make it able to send real time data
have it scan the clock in the room, then youll have the real time.
I wish I had that kind of free time
my thing implements a custom protocol so you could realistically
just make some form of NTP
im working on an info section for it atm
but ImGui is a lil odd
and i need to figure out how it works
to make a pretty lookin UI
Induction or electric cooker?
Here they are phasing out gas, but probably another 15 to 20 years. I love cooking with gas but is it the time to swap to electric?
You can use proto board and cut it with a dremel for your buttons and then wire the buttons with solder as through hole. That's the quickest way without investing in a custom PCB design, but I don't know what case you have or the condition of it. I did a handheld which was a 3d printed case and had mounts for proto board with my buttons, then I 3d printed some caps for it all
I had it plugged into a wall socket that wasn't connected to anything. I wish they would remove these things..
Painted kitchen 4 coats. It's not great, it was such an awkward room to paint. I really should take the wall cupboards off and paint it less awkward but I'd need some helping hands for that and don't have anyone around at the moment. It's fine. I'll do some vinyls on the cupboard panels and make it more cool with accessories
@patent hemlock
induction is great if you have the right pots. radiant is terrible. no control.
Great advice. Cheers 🍻
Induction is about a third more expensive but feels like a good investment
Electric for me would come in about £400 and induction starts about £600
Its a free standing unit and comes with oven and grill, have seen the stand alone induction hobs and considered that but would prefer to have the range
ugh, I am disappointed that I might need to run ethernet through my helmet
ahh, that is called a range here. most common. Still over $2000 though. appliances in canada are expensive for no reason
The size and function is comparitively much larger in north America. Here in UK we tend to be much smaller. If you compare our toasters for example
smaller ones cost even more here.
I am talking the identical actual product costing 2-4x more money her.e
And yet you have coolwhip, eggos and maple everywhere
for no valid reason
haha
coolwhip went out of style in the 80s. noone wants corn oil on their pie
I'll send you a cooker if you give me a lifetime supply of above
the problem with induction is not the appliance but the cookware -- you can't just grab any old skillet (edit caused by new kittens)
yes. need all new cookware usually
Everything is being built up new. I finally found a long term living situation
I think every item will be researched even the humble cook pot
My sofa arrived randomishly 2 weeks before it was supposed and is now my bed! They shipped the wrong colour but I accepted (it was 1 of 2 colour choices) and later they have refunded me £50 from the price which I can use for cushions or a throw over because it's dark and I ordered light 😕
That said it came from England to Scotland by a single driver and we made it indoors so was happy to accept in the end. Christmas is so busy !
scotland is on my bucket list... 😀
my pizza is 6 minutes late. I want to sue for pizza deprivation
I never tried us pizza, but it looks better
this is canadioan pizza
stone oven, but not wood fired
we have american chain pizza too (pizza hut, dominos etc). cooked on conveyor belts.
any good alternatives to this? https://www.adafruit.com/product/1296
Nothing, and I mean nothing, beats a NYC slice.
two slices?
except every other kind of pizza
actually, i would class the pizza i had as ny styel inspired i think.
just improved with pineapples 😛
If I could, I'd take you to the Original Ray's for a slice and see if that didn't make a believer out of ya!
it wont
my own pizza dough is the best. if you had some you would abaondon all your pizza beleifs
Could be. I'll tell you one thing, this whole conversation is making me hungry.
why cant I find AdafruitSAMD in the arduino library to add a featherwing to my boards
it's not a library. it's a board support package.
Tools -> Boards -> Manage Boards
but add the URL in preferences first
don't know what SAMD board you are using, but it'd be the same general process as shown here:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m0-express-designed-for-circuit-python-circuitpython/arduino-ide-setup (add URL)
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m0-express-designed-for-circuit-python-circuitpython/using-with-arduino-ide (install SAMD BSP)
also - don't confuse Arduino SAMD with Adafruit SAMD. you'll want to install both.
thanks took a couple of tries but got I think
You can make a NYC slice at home by adding salt and baking powder to the water
It's the water toxicity that makes the pizza dough cook differently. The elevated lead levels probably help with the taste
Boston pizza has even softer water
Gotta make the PH 0
You could also try cooking the pizza with distilled water instead
$1 a gallon at Walmart
Nah, the water thing is a myth. It doesn’t matter much beyond the hydration level in the dough
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt] Just as the jocks like to stick together and nerds travel in packs, obsessives bordering on the psychotic (like me) seek out the acquaintance of others like themselves, in a manner that some say borders on the, well, the obsessive. The first time I heard that the mineral content of water might have an effect on ...
I have done distilled water a few times. Eventually just went back to filtered
Modernist Pizza also states water doesn’t matter much, and they spent 200,000 hours studying pizza
What a dream job
My tap water actually makes the dough change texture. It's pretty dirty
The landlord actually had to install a water softener because it was clogging our pipes.
Part pizza part tiny rocks and minerals 🤣
The local government tripled the chlorine content to illegal levels when covid started causing issues too
It's back to normal now though
i use tap water, its fine here. ive lived in some other places with very hard water, almost slimey.
chlorine people dont quite get. by the time you use the water, there is no chlorine in it. it has all off gassed
so no matter what level is in it, it does not impact your food (short of having less bacteria)
CHLORINE WILL KILL THE COVID
Well yes, but it kills living cells in general, so...
SHUSH, WE SHALL PASS POLICIES TO MAKE PEOPLE FEEL SAFE.
Also, it is transmitted through microdroplets ejected into the air, not through food and drink.
WE SHALL RELEASE CHLORINE GAS INTO THE AIR TO KILL THE COVID!

I cracked open my iot air purifier api
import requests
headers_cognito = {
"Accept-Encoding": "identity",
"aws-sdk-invocation-id": "a8106d9c-2641-40db-88aa-92ef6b9c44e5",
"aws-sdk-retry": "0/0",
"Connection": "Keep-Alive",
"Content-Length": "84",
"Content-Type": "application/x-amz-json-1.1",
"Host": "cognito-identity.ap-southeast-1.amazonaws.com",
"User-Agent": "aws-sdk-android/2.22.6 Linux/4.19.127-ge275d78fd-dirty Dalvik/2.1.0/0 en_US",
"X-Amz-Target": "AWSCognitoIdentityProviderService.InitiateAuth"
}
body_cognito = {
"AuthFlow": "REFRESH_TOKEN_AUTH",
"AuthParameters": {
"SECRET_HASH": "your_secret_hash",
"REFRESH_TOKEN": "your_refresh_token"
},
"ClientId": "your_client_id",
"UserContextData": {
"EncodedData": "your_encoded_data"
}
}
data_cognito = requests.post("https://cognito-idp.ap-southeast-1.amazonaws.com/", json=body_cognito, headers=headers_cognito)
lastresp = data_cognito.json()
headers_api = {
"Accept-Encoding": "gzip",
"Authorization": lastresp["AuthenticationResult"]["IdToken"],
"Connection": "Keep-Alive",
"Content-Length": "32",
"Content-Type": "application/json",
"Host": "api.acerpure.com",
"User-Agent": "Dalvik/2.1.0 (Linux; U; Android 11; vivo 1901 Build/RP1A.200720.012)"
}
body_api = {
"deviceid": "your_device_id"
}
data_api = requests.post("https://api.acerpure.com/v1/device/ask", json=body_api, headers=headers_api)
print(data_api.json())
{
"code":0,
"description":"Success",
"data":{
"status":"online",
"data":{
"Acerpure-0":{
"Model":"AP551-50W",
"MainFWVersion":"v1.2.0.0",
"ModuleFWVersion":"v1.2.4",
"OTAUrl":"",
"OTAState":"Stop",
"Power":"On",
"AirPurifierSpeed":"Smart",
"AirCirculatorSpeed":"1",
"AirPurifierRotate":"Off",
"AirCirculatorRotate":"Off",
"AirDetectMode":"PM2.5",
"KidMode":"Off",
"SleepMode":"Off",
"ShutdownTimer":"Off",
"FilterState":"Installed",
"FilterHealth":"83",
"FilterIndicator":"Off",
"UV":"N/A",
"PM2.5State":"Good",
"PM1.0State":"Good",
"GASState":"Good",
"CO2State":"N/A",
"MyFavorIcon":"Off",
"PM2.5":"2",
"PM1.0":"1",
"GAS":"0",
"CO2":"0",
"FilterHealthAlertInterval":"86400",
"FilterHealth5AlertInterval":"864000",
"FilterHealth10AlertInterval":"8640000",
"FilterHealth20AlertInterval":"8640000",
"FilterInstallAlertInterval":"3600",
"AQIAlertInterval":"14400",
"GASAlertInterval":"14400",
"CO2AlertInterval":"14400",
"TransferMode":"CostSave",
"InitBypassTime":"1800",
"CostSaveInterval":"3600",
"CostSaveCount":"720"
}
}
}
}
This one is good https://www.sparkfun.com/products/15948
Yeh mine too. The garbage bucket 🪣 😂
Oh wow, I just stumbled upon some ripoff Lego sets on Amazon and wow oh wow are the images on the listings pure gold
I mean, this guy looks so distraught that a Lego star destroyer has showed up to his meeting
So high quality
The reviews list a lot of people complaining the set doesn’t stay together and they had to use super glue lol
not what i would call a high degree of manufacturing
does anyone know what solutions like Click and Grow or Aerogarden run on?
I wish renders and image editing was banned for any product images
yes and no. you need to include at least one real life picture of the product
so many amazon and aliexpress sellers just photoshop their logo onto stock pictures.
Lego itself it's a rip-off
Who originally patented legos as an invention died from suicide if I don't wrongly remember
LEGO was inspired by Kiddicraft self-locking blocks, made by Hilary Page, and it was a mutually accepted design copy as he wasn't having success with his kiddicraft blocks, and they didn't violate his patent - plus they contacted him for permission to avoid conflicts.
LEGO acquired the remaining kiddicraft rights from his kids after his death a few decades later.
They even have info about it on their site https://www.lego.com/en-us/history/articles/c-automatic-binding-bricks
@dusty citrusPlease do not post offensive images or messages here. See #code-of-conduct for the rules of the server.
O_o
WE ARE LIVE! SHOW AND TELL! https://youtu.be/0R2-TIg_qos
WE ARE LIVE! ASK AN ENGINEER! https://youtu.be/HFN6zglHSx0
ASK AN ENGINEER 12/6/2023 LIVE!
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com
LIVE CHAT IS HERE! http://adafru.it/discord
Subscribe to Adafruit on YouTube: http://adafru.it/subscribe
New tutorials on the Adafruit Learning System: http://learn.adafruit.com/
-----------------------------------...
Have a question…. How can the the QT PY pin out online be sooooooo far off reality?
If I go by the official pin out nothing works! Have to randomly go through pins to find what works.
Settings set as 26,27 and 32 run my lights…. Pin out online says these are 2, 16 and 6,….
I’m trying to add a button and found I can not use the 4 pin connector like I used too. Was simple before.. what happened?
Honestly I have no idea what you mean
How do I find the real pin out for a QT PY?
Make sure to use the pinout for the exact correct QTPY
And a program like wled... I don't know what kinda pin names it uses but it might be different that the Arduino/Circuitpython pin names
Last time I built some this small I used the same HW and used the little 4 pin stem QT 4 pin connector and grabbed 3v, gnd and signal, now the pin out online says these can not be used for analog input.
Sda and scl. Inputs.
September 13th I had an issue and it was solved in this chat. If that helps.
Did the QT PY boars change?
There are like half a dozen different QT PYs with different GPIO pinouts. Which one do you have?
Esp32 pico.
that's... 25 times more expensive...
I don't need ir imaging
It’s the only one that will run wled right?
I'm not familiar with WLED sorry
but that's the pinout chart for that specific QT PY model
Wow. Pinoits are way different!!! Trying now. Thank you.
Np. There's QT PY: ESP32 Pico, ESP32-C3, ESP32-S2, ESP32-S3, RP2040 that I know of, each is different
Sorry for the rant. Thank you for the help!!
hi everyone, i have been looking up and down for the 3D design files that were created from this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FA7a-n7o_Mg&ab_channel=AdafruitIndustries
I have looked in the github link in the video description, I've tried contacting the guy in the video on instagram, email, etc. to no avail. Can anyone let me know where I can find them? Or where else to look?
Taking a look at using surface extrude and circular pattern to create a grid diffuser for a 24 x NeoPixel ring from Adafruit.
24 x NeoPixel Ring
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1586
Black LED Acrylic
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4594
Feather M4 Express
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3857
CircuitPython LED Animations
https://learn.adaf...
Yeah - you said "better" but didn't define what "better" meant...
I don't know where to find it, but it might be quicker to re-create it than to dig it up.
unfortunately i dont know anything about fusion 360
i was hoping i could find the files and send them to a guy that has a 3d printer i know...but i cant find them
seems like a good time to learn 🙂
It wouldn't be hard to do in OpenSCAD (that's how I would have done it)
how much would you charge to do it 🙂
That depends on how much of a hurry you're in
i would charge 12 pies.
I'd charge the approximate cost for a delivery meal + delivery fee + tip + tax on the meal, tip and delivery fee.
But that does look trivial to make in fusion 360
Besides cutting a flat face into this screw via an hammer or power tool what could I do? Boss it's a consumer maniac so I can't be heard
Glue cannot be used; tape/elastic bands were unusefull
You can also carve an opening for a hex, Torx, triangle, etc. driver. I've done this a few times for smaller screws when restoring antique sewing machines and not wanting to damage anything next to the screw.
Depending on the drivers you have available, you can also drill a pair of holes and open it with a driver for "twin hole", "snake eye", or "pig nose" screws.
This takes less skill and offers lots of torque, if you have two hole drivers on hand
What do you mean?
This might make it clearer https://www.insight-security.com/twin-hole-security-screws
Twin Hole (2 hole) Security Screws Snake Eye or Pig Nose Screws in stainless steel
I see but I can't really drill the screw?
What if I cutted the screw sides with some pliers and then use some flat head to try to unscrew it?
If you can get at the edges of the screw, you might be able to grab it with pliers or Vice Grips and turn it. There are pliers made for just this job: https://www.adafruit.com/product/396
ok suppose I wanted it next week?
Cutting the sides is a valid option similar to the flat face, but the ends of a small screw like that might not be easy to pry up, assuming there’s some countersink to that. Drill/dremel would be my go-to, but given your constraints, that might be off your table.
Guys i really need some help with my project. I’m implementing duplex communication via mqtt. But .onMessage() function is not getting called at all.
Please if someone can take out a couple mins and review my code, I’ll be v thankful.🙏🏻🙏🏻
Here’s the link (single .ino file)
https://github.com/moizghumann/IoT_Temperature_Control/blob/main/sketch_dec3c.ino
If you can cut the screw what's stopping you using needle grips and just turning the screw? @dusty citrus
Just bend it up a little at the edges if you can't get a good grab
just drill the thing out like a normal person?
why you gotta try and make everythign complicated? 😛
not sure what this means:
Boss it's a consumer maniac
In the end I managed to put it without unscrewing the screw, by moving around/bending that sheet metal like thing
How can I say... When someone handles everything like a really fragile crystalline substance, while there's no need
Does anyone know good book that is about microcontrollers like what it is, how it works, types of microcontrollers and history?
Eh I can't really recommend any in particular they're all the same in the end.
You have lots of documentation online, including adafruit's docs, allaboutelectronics, or specific to the device distrubutors/manufacturers and so on
This book is older but I thought it was a fine introduction at the time: https://www.oreilly.com/library/view/designing-embedded-hardware/0596007558/
available elsewhere, of course
You can try asking in #help-with-arduino generally we don’t allow cross posting, but you can do it this one instance to move to the Arduino help channel.
ok thx I need this as material for bachelor thesis so thats why I asked for book, since I need trustworthy source
Not sure what do you mean, but it is my final work to get a degree
I had to take a two part course where I and a team had to devise and execute an engineering project and deliver a massive report, presentation, and demonstration of the work done.
It was called a Senior Design Project because it’s done by engineering students in their final/senior year
that sounds good and useful unlike what I am doing.
I found it surprisingly interesting and understandable to just read the datasheet of the microcontroller I'm using
I wish our education system adapted to software engineer since their type of learning is so much different from others
in one of my current classes the professor just takes a surprisingly large amount of content straight out of the atmega328p datasheet 😆
My bachelors degree is in computer engineering
We used a lot of TI microcontrollers
MSP430, MSP432 mostly
Also Xilinx Spartan 6 FPGA
Maybe a Spartan 7, I can’t remember what’s on the Basys3 boards from diligent
meanwhile our school equipment best I can do is theoretical powerpoint presentation and rest is up to you >D
Oh Artix-7
US based school?
Or overseas?
overseas
Oh dang, yeah that can complicate things
I mean it is my own fault so yeah but I am hoping to get into better school for magister degree
Depending on where you are, you could get an education that throws you deep into new technologies like is happening at many Indian universities, or just getting enough knowledge to get by with needing a lot of scrappiness to learn it in your own
Oh okay. My bad
All good
To be fair though, quality at even US universities is really starting to suck.
In many cases, a lot of electrical and hardware focused engineering degrees are severely underfunded and ill equipped to teach modern engineering
I mean in the end it is really up to you but it wouldnt hurt to see bit more enthusiasm from professors.
Absolutely
But to be fair, as they’ve seen people just cheat and be dishonest about their efforts to learn materials, it’s easy to see why many have given up
Same our education system is underfunded a lot, but it depands where you go we still we have a one relly good public uni but it is pain to be there, you have no sleep since if you snooze you loose
meaning that you need to be learning a lot in order to not be expeled
I had one professor who a few students threatened him to the point where he no longer would allow you to show your work on tests and quizzes. Final answer all or nothing
It was pretty messed up
daaam yeah also same here students are getting lot more toxic
Unpopular opinion but their parents didnt beat them enough 😄 meaning that their parent did not teach them good manners
But I get what you’re saying, they were not raised to respect people, especially those giving their time and knowledge to educate them
It was honestly a bit sad because most of the students respected the professor even if they were harder on students than other professors work
I would never think about disrespecting my professor even If I think he is lazy person with no skills to learn others
Looked into the Arduino EEPROM library, and out of curiosity looked into its source code
They have a super super clean EEPtr and EERef set of utility structs
Most example code snippets I saw keep track of the address themselves, and do read() and write() explicitly. Why not use an EEPtr which abstracts this away? Super pretty code, I love its implementation
*(eeAddress++) = …the byte…;
This clearly writes to the current byte, and shifts to the next address
Do the docs assume people don’t know much C++?
Because if that’s the case, I understand. EEPtr just seems too good to not mention right off the bat
Are solid models available for adafruit components? Looking specifically for 2324. Only finding board diagrams but no solid models
I had to remove a wall plug and screw yesterday using my wire snips. It wasn't pretty and then I discovered I own a crow bar which has a pincer on the other end
If there is a CAD part for it, it would be here, but I don't see it for 2324: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_CAD_Parts
Rad thank you!
Is there any sort of way to contact Adafruit to request a custom version of one of their products
I'm running into an issue that could be practically entirely solved if this board just had USB-C instead of Micro USB https://www.adafruit.com/product/2341
What’s your issue?
Long story short, I'm making a replica of Han Solo's blaster, and want to use that board I linked to add sounds. I'd like it to have a single USB C slot that allows accessing the files on the sound board and charging of the internal battery
Can you use the USB C panel mount cables they sell?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4259 or something like this
nowhere near enough room in the blaster sadly
Just that adapter would exceed the width I have available, and take up probably 60% or more of the internal volume even if it could be slimmed down
Gotcha, yeah that’s a tricky problem
They sell the raw chip so you could probably take Adafruit’s design and make it yourself with the usb c connector and LiPo charging on one board that fits better
Alright. That may be my best bet, although I suspect at that point, I may be better off investing in a BlasterCore board
Perhaps, but not nearly as satisfying as designing your own board (in my own opinion that is )
🙂
I don't have the skills to do that sadly
Only way to get them is to start somewhere. This is a great project that you can crib heavily from Adafruit on
They’ve done the ground work for you on the codec board, the battery charger, and whatnot
Yeah
Plus we have helpers here like myself able to help you along the way in the #help-with-hw-design channel
I mean literally all I need is that board to just have a USB C plug on it
Which feels like it should be something they make already honestly
It is likely in the works
But it can take some time for new products to hit the store
Yeah
You’d have a faster turnaround doing it yourself plus the experience gained is so valuable
Either way, always here to help if you take the jump
Yeah
Do you have any recommended services for custom PCB production?
Oh no I'd probably need to solder the IC to the PCB if I were to go that route, wouldn't I
As proud as I am of my soldering skills, I think trying to accurately solder all the pieces to this would be impossible for me
@molten raft this combo probably still too big?
unfortunately USB-C pin layout is slightly off from a Micro connector, but could maybe work with some tweaking:
there are breakouts too, but I didn't see one for USB-C jack
with a little bit of practice, it isn't too hard to do SMT soldering. you can get a solder paste stencil from JLCPCB or PCBWay, you can even have them assemble a majority of the board for you, leaving just the codec chip to attach
JLCPCB has the advantage of owning and being connected to parts site LCSC
it's possible they have the codec chip in stock
oh nice, they do
so yeah, you could design the PCB and have JLCPCB assemble it for you without having to solder anything too difficult
If you have a stencil cutter and some 4mil Mylar film, you can make some pretty good solder stencils
Good enough for most prototyping work
What’s the story behind the name of the qualia line?
Ever put in a back order for something and then forget to cancel it? Happened to me this morning
It depends somewhat on where you are in the world, but DigiKey offers next day shipping to a lot of places.
in fairness, usually you back order thing you WANT 😛
Well I back order CM4 from mouser but then a few months back I got some from digikey and kind of spaced canceling the back order lol
CM4s can be tough to find, I don't blame you there 
i would like to purchase a neoring 16 or 24, what wire would i need to purchase for it to plug into a 3pin port?
actually, does the neoring require 4 wires?
that's a little vague: there are lots of "3 pin ports" and lots of WS281x rings out there
well, im trying to go from a neopixel ring to a pico, and the pico im using has various plug inputs...so i just need to know what kind of wire i need to buy to solder to the neoring and has the right male plug on the other end
im new to this btw
this is the box im dealing with
it has various inputs (and various input types) that are mapped into the pico
the manufacturer of said box should have details on all of that (i don't even know what that thing is 😆 )
Name the woods. haha
I've never seen that PCB below the pico. Best to check its documentation to see what plugs they are. And make sure that the pinout (which pin of the plug is what) is also correct. Just because something physically fits, doesn't mean that it is electrically correct
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1586 Those neopixel Rings that adafruit sells have no connectors. You just solder wires to them. And you can obviously solder wires with whatever connector you want to it
neopixels use 3 pins: power, gnd, data
the connectors on the PCB in the box are a mix of 2 pin, 3 pin, and other (one QWICC)
so, yah, it's unknown exactly what those connectors are in terms of pin usage going back to the Pico itself
also unknown is what the actual connector is. only the QWIIC one appears to be JST (SH in this case)
you can drive neopixel directly from the Pico, it's just a matter of what pins those connectors are bringing out
another option, if you wanted to use that QWIIC connector is this:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5766
And what are those components and what do they do on that blue PCB? 🤔
hello everyone :D. Long time adafruit customer but first time discord user. I'm working on a build right now but having an issue with the OV5640 camera module, is there a general place I can discuss my issue to see if anyone has any insight. I have done extensive googling and attempting to solve 😄
cater, thank you for the info...im really just tryingto get to a point where i can "plug in" the neopixel and get moving. im stuck right now because i dont have a soldering iron and i didnt know how to get it functioning at all because i dont know what plug to use. i have one of those neopixel strips with 24 lights in the image on that link you posted, but the plug that comes out of it is about 3x too big to fit on this board.
We have no idea what the plugs on that blue board are. We don't even know what that board even is. You have to check the documentation for that board.
yea ive asked the developer of it for that
I think the cleanest solution is probably to solder new wires with the correct plug to the neopixel strip. If you're really lucky you might find adapters. Or you could cut the wires and then use some kind of screw terminals or something to connect the wires (with the neopixel rings on them) to the wires with the plugs for the blue board
Welcome! That's what the Discord is for. How are you programming it? There are #help-with channels for Arduino, CircuitPython and #help-with-projects is more of a catch-all as well.
im using the VCNL4040 in conjunction with a 4 way MUX board, there would be 4 VCNL4040's and each one would need a NeoPixel 24 Ring. ideally i would love to just plug the ring right into the VCNL4040 since they will be mounted right next to each other. but i dont know if thats possible
the VCNL4040's have an input and output...leading me to believe it might be possible to daisy chain them, but im not sure
but at this point im so new to it, im not sure what components woudl be required to achieve what im doing. i am trying to illuminate an LED ring when motion is detected by up to 6 motion sensors (so 6 LEDs)
each LED ring is paired to a single motion sensor. so when motion sensor 3 is triggered, LED 3 is illuminated
awesome! posted 😄
yeah, I think you definitely need a microcontroller. You can't plug neopixels straight into a sensor
They're I2C, right? If yes, then you can put them on the same I2S bus as long as you can give each sensor a different address (or use I2C multiplexer/switch/forgotTheName)
But I would start with one thing at a time
Like, first just get the sensor working and Serial.print its value.
Then just get the Neopixels working and have them display static "information".
Then combine one sensor + one neopixel ring.
Then add multiple
thats kinda what im doing, i have the mux working with 3 sensors and can detect them all via circuit python and print out their values
now im just trying to get the neopixel integrated which is qhere im stuck
@dusk path is there any kind of product page you can link for that board?
ive asked for a diagram
as suggested, there's the I2C neopixel driver board, since you've already got the mux -- then all you need to do is figure out how to get 5v to each of those driver boards
I've been working on a design for my friend, he sent me this video
https://youtu.be/dZm_JRxJiYA?si=9s-NnSClpPuAQaU5&t=140
he said it would be helpful to him to have something like that for getting in and our of his car so I used openscad to design one, I had to get a little creative to get it to fit on my printer. I know the pvc will fit perfect because i did a test print to make sure. I have yet to print the whole thing which I'm gonna try to do soon afaik it should be good, if all goes well i may end up making more.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6362373
This demonstrates how you can use a 3D printed kickstand to make the wheelchair transfer into your Tesla easy and less cumbersome. If you would like the 3d file for printing the kickstand let me know and I will provide for you. The kickstand keeps the wheelchair wheels off the ground so they can be removed easily without causing the user to hold...
the i2c cable doesnt supply power?
yes. but 3.3V. and generally not meant for something as power hungry as neopixels.
there would be 4 VCNL4040's and each one would need a NeoPixel 24 Ring
so 96 neopixels total
info on neopixel powering here:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/powering-neopixels
no, it requires an external 5v input, which is then properly routed to the Vin on the strip - https://www.adafruit.com/product/5766
but not all at the same time. it would only ever light up 1 ring for a few seconds
you might be able to get away with it then
but neopixels are also 5v things. so getting them working with 3.3V power and logic can be hit or miss.
at this point id be ok if it just operated. id like to get started coding but cant without something thats physically working to test with
without information on that other board, it's not clear how to make the connections
the two QWIIC connectors should be known pinouts though
they seem to be working with your other I2C breakouts, so seems like they are
yes they work...i have 3 sensors connected to the MUX and i can detect them all in code
the sensors have a QWIIC in/out, could i hypothetically go MUX->Sensor->Driver board->NEOPIXEL over a QWIIC cable? or would i still need extra power supplied to it?
you can't mix i2c with neopixel
neopixel has its own unique timing right?
yes
so id have to go board->QWIIC->Driver Board->NeoPixel?
yes, if you wanted things to be all on the same I2C bus
do you have the neopixel rings already?
i have 1 on hand, yes
any wires attached to it yet?
no
thats one of my main questions is which wire do i need to buy to get it connected to the board where i can communicate with it...hopefully without too much soldering (or none if possible, for now anyways)
ok...i can manage that as long as i know that its the right step forward
exactly what wires you solder and how is up to you and would generally depend on the your final hardware arrangement
do you have a STEMMA QT cable like this?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4397
no, but i can order one
if you don't have those cables, i'd say wait to you'll get more info on what those other connectors on the board are
what would i do if i had that second one?
you could solder some wires to the ring and then use that STEMMA QT cable to bridge the connection using a breadboard
and use the other QWIIC port
but that's like a total hack just to get something blinking today
and only being suggest because those are the only ports on that board that currently have known pinouts
I'm curious. What even is that blue pcb? Like what's it's point? What do those components on it do?
You could always also just wire stuff to the Pi Pico directly
Point to point construction is time consuming.
It might even have enough pins so you don't have to solder a lot/don't need a breadboard to split power and ground
And PCBs are cheap.
yes, but if you don't know what the connector on the PCB are and you don't have the wires for it then just wiring directly to the Pico might be faster 😄
But yeah, I think I should start designing my own PCBs like that. Could definitely make projects way neater
anybody know where i can purchase ONLY the smaller cables in bulk? i need a ton of them but i dont need the long ones. hoping to buy like a 100pc of the 5,7,10mms each
buy a roll of solid core wire and make them yourself?
On average how long does it take to get items from adafruit off their website? I’m in California.
They ship from New York, and it usually takes about a week for things to arrive for me (in Oregon).
USPS usually takes 1 week to Seattle
Does anyone know of a good 20 channel adc and 20 channel dac if that is even a thing?
I'll need to know more about your requirements... Resolution? Sample rate? What are you measuring? Etc.
4 to 7 days for me
All I really know is that I have 20 line of analog that need to be encoded to two line transferred over a cable to a dac then have 20 line of output analog
There are multiple approaches that can be taken, but the sample rate and resolution requirements will determine which is best. Also, you need to be aware of the fact that ADC input stages can be quite noisy at times, so if you are trying to sample from some sort of sensor, there will likely need to be some additional amplification before converting the signal(s). As far as the two lines are concerned, has a particular protocol been chosen yet?
tbh im from pakistan and my instructor doesnt even know what orm's are (we are studying databases along with IoT connectivity as well)
btw @tardy badger , unfortunately im not getting help in any channel and my project is due in a couple days. dont wanna sound selfish but i can really use some help
Here is a little video showing part of the process of how we make machined artisan keycaps - in this case form Dupont Corian. A machined delrin (POM) cherry mx compatible stem is bonded in after machining and finally, the pieces are sanded to a 1500 grit finish. For more information or to purchase, please visit our store at https://failkeys.etsy...
Kinda surprised that there isn't a model like this (component lead bender) but for making standard length jumpers. Should be trivial to design one. That, and one of these wire strippers and you're good to go.
You'll want a punchdown tool and crimp tool too. Makes things a lot easier.
as simplistic as those little jacket strippers are they really do work better than metal tools twice as expensive... and they're kinda disposable.
Hi does anyone know a good literature about single board computes (what are they, how do they work, different types, what are their uses and history)?
They work just like 'regular' computers.
that are just regular computers.
a mac m2 is a single board computer. your phone is (usually) a single board computer.
So, I went ahead and designed one. I've also got a "cut" jig that's currently being printed. Will post STLs and SCAD source shortly.
was casually browsing adafruit for some tech-ish stuff for christmas gifts, and i found the bristlebots lol. Snapped up a 10 pack of those bad boys, i think my niece will get a kick out of them
STLs and SCAD code for anyone interested: https://www.printables.com/model/675415-wire-jumper-jigs
60 hz at my house within inverter from the '90s is trash
Have to put in a nice pure sine wave after seeing how garbage this is. I'm surprised my refrigerator runs
When kicked on my generator and this is what my house power looks like
Fascinatingly bad
I've gotta second FlakShim, that is truly one for the books.
Does Adafruit have a Kicad library for their Mini Sound FX boards?
No, but you can import EagleCAD files into KiCAD
well I'll need the libraries so I can design a board can be soldered onto a PCB and traced to the button and top switch for sound triggering
You should be able to extract the parts from the files
I'll have to do this later when I get one to experiment on the PKE Meter and how the left button turns it all on
put up corina and a bunch of various wood caps. whew. i think im done with those for a week or 2. need to make xmas presens on the CNC!
Hello all. I am new here. I am looking to build this but need 9 solenoids. Could this design be expanded? I see there are 13 pins but several are on the other side and I’m unsure if they are different
https://learn.adafruit.com/midi-solenoid-drum-kit/
Desk of Ladyada - MEMENTO Tester & ICN6211 4" Display Troubles https://youtu.be/pH3X9MvdqNw
This week's "Desk of Ladyada" features two projects. Developing a self-test program for the MEMENTO camera tester, using Pico brains board to check components like the battery charger and speaker. And, attempting to adapt the ICN6211 RGB TTL display driver for 4" displays, facing challenges due to differences from ST7701 driver. Also, "The Great...
which stock feather board can keep time as a clock? do you even need an rtc for that?
depends on the accuracy you want, different MCUs have different drift, but you do need a way to set the time initially (and periodically dependent on drift and time source)
readily-available sources: battery-backed rtc (e.g., adalogger featherwing), wifi (e.g., various S2 or S3 feather boards), gps (featherwing or external module), manual, etc.
it just needs to tell time as good as a regular quartz clock
its not doing anything special. but the mechanism for the "hands" isnt suited to the standard clock guts
assuming the device can get network access, the easiest thing (to me) is a wifi feather, you can get NTP time (or via HTTP) as often as you need
without network access, probably a dedicated RTC that you can manually adjust maybe... annually?
if you rely on most MCUs without an external time source, you're at the mercy of their drift (and loss of power, etc.) and may get frustrated how often it needs manual adjustment of the time
ah, cool, thanks
I’m finally hitting the point of parenthood where I can no longer wrap presents early and put them underneath the tree
My wife came downstairs to find the toddler having ripped into three presents 💀
Funny enough I never had the issue with my two older kids
ha
It may be because I am daily cursing my new loud neighbor, but I read this in some other way...
I read it as ripping into three peasants.
toddler just going ham on peasants in the basement.
TROGDOOORRRR!
is there an api with circuit python that allows you to query for devices plugged in via i2c and uniquely identify each device? like if i had 8 off the same sensors does each one have its own id?
@dusk path there is an I2C scan that will show all the addresses on the bus, but if you have eight identical sensors, they need eight unique addresses, and that must be accommodated on the board with jumpers or something
you can use an i2c multiplexer if you can’t change the addresses to be unique
I love Adafruit's PCA multiplexers that have stemma plugs. Makes hooking up multiple stemma devices with the same address super easy.
Seconded! My "master control panel" (two NeoKey 1x4 and way too many OLED screens) is predicated on it
Hey guyssss
hi
In which channel can I find assistance for issues with flashing the Adafruit ESP32-S3 Feather?
depends on what you're flashing. if it's arduino related, there's #help-with-arduino . if it's circuitpython related, there's #help-with-circuitpython . if it's more generic, then maybe #help-with-projects
I'm going to need to make a charging bay for these does anybody suggest a board that has more than one charging port? Could be sweet to make one that had like six
Please double and triple check the polarity! Those adafruit LiPos are normal LiPos and NOT "HV", so make sure that the charger is set to normal LiPo mode. Also make sure that the charging rate isn't too fast!
I think you could use something intended for FPV drone batteries. Tiny FPV drones also use 1S LiPos with PH plug and since they last for about 2 minutes, chargers for many LiPos at a time exist.
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/vifly-whoopstor-1s-battery-charger
https://www.racedayquads.com/collections/battery-chargers-accessories/products/betafpv-6-port-1s-charger-for-bt2-0-ph2-0-with-or-without-ac-adapter (i think this one has a fixed charging rate of 1A, might be too fast for your lipos!)
(Maybe those two links are kinda overkill for your purpose 😆)
Yeah I think the little boards only supply 100 milliamps to these batteries. It seems like it takes about as long to charge it as it lasts
I've changed the transmit times on my dog tracker so that it didn't do it as often. That helped quite a bit for that one. But on my mobile receiver I just leave it plugged in to my USB all the time. But I drive my less than half the time so it shuts off at night and that never gets fully charged because I don't drive for 12 hours
Obviously I could just put a switch but yeah I kind of just want to be able to stick it on my dash and forget about it
I felt bad for the battery so I've just been taking it inside and charging it on some random board and switching it with another one
I'll probably just stick a solar panel on it and see how long it lasts
fun
I want to test if I can recieve sensor data from the 'Adafruit SCD30', connected with feather to an ESP32-S3 via a USB cable, onto my Windows 10 PC using Home Assistant and ESPHome. The ultimate goal is to view the data on my smartphone through MQTT. Eventually, a Raspberry Pi will replace the PC, but before purchasing the Raspberry Pi, I want to make sure I can get everything working. Currently, I'm stuck at the flashing stage and have difficulty understanding the error description. Since my English is not very strong, and chatGPT isn't helping much, I'm seeking advice from experienced users. Have these issues been discussed on here? I want to ensure I efficiently find a solution before creating a separate post.
Is there a 3D model for this? https://www.adafruit.com/product/2770
there, edited up a vodeo of that being cut. ha
12 minutes long. im gonna make me like $14 cents of youtube money
is there an Adafruit rep here that could help a small business owner with advice on shipping boxes?
Your best bet to get an official Adafruit response is to email support@adafruit.com with what you’re looking for
There isn’t any regular monitoring of discord by Adafruit staff as this discord is intended for the community to get help/share projects
if there are any other small business owners here that could also discuss that'd be helpful too
there are some business-related learn guides on adafruit.com, some under the category "maker business"
Ray Guns lmao i sell big props on my website and i have been looking into bulk boxes and theyre way more expensive than what i was expecting. a pack of 25 boxes is like $50
Oh yeah, cardboard is pricy
i thought boxes would be like $1 a box but i guess not
If you’re willing to buy a few thousand, sure
also, lots of shipping and logistics advice can rapidly change with circumstances, so older advice you find online might already be out of date
its crazy because USPS offers free cardboard and my products are just an INCH too long
What size do you need?
the reason why i wanted an adafruit rep was because i love how they have their logo on the box and everything looks professional but i imagine it would be expensive to do that
having aspect ratios that are too far from the ideal can sometimes lead to surcharges, from what i recall, because it makes it harder to pack the trucks/freight containers efficiently
Buy a roll of stickers and slap them in your boxes
Pretty easy in between plus can function as a seal
i need roughly 16x11x7
thats for my Ray Gun, i have other massive weapons that are like 4 feet in length
That is large
yeah :/
Hey fellas, not sure if this is the right place to ask, my car battery charger clamps are messed up and need to be replaced. I figured I might aswell replace the cables with built in connector to make the cable removable. Would anyone have any connector suggestions? I was thinking XT60 might be good enough? the car charger is rated at 12 amps charge, I believe it would around 14v
oh man. its horrible. i got quotes of 5-$25 per cardboard box to pack something worth $30
i made my own packaging in the end
if im gonna pay, i may as well pay myself 😛
That should work. My usual go-to is Anderson Powerpole connectors, available in various amperages (the 30A ones are popular for ham radio use)
Powerpole is nice. I do wish there were smaller/lower current variants, as well as some kind of PCB mounting solution.
done, yay. just needs a box... sigh
...and some keys
pretty sure they have matching keys to go with it
haha
(for my friends brother, he has an S3)
i wanted to do the black part as a colour match with touch up paint, but i couldnt find any that i could get fast
next up, a light-up version that sends the bat signal like the puddle lights 😉
ha
Did anyone controlled a Quelima SQ13 camera with a microcontroller? (Using signals from mcu instead of opening it and starting video recording by clicking its button)
I've had good luck ordering custom sized boxes from ecoenclose: https://www.ecoenclose.com/shop/custom-shipping-boxes/ They do printing from 100+ boxes. Not sure of the cost.
Create custom shipping boxes to your specifications with your unique branding. Our mailer boxes are made with 100% recycled content for sustainable shipping.
you can ask about it during ask and engineer tonight
once you get to 1000 or so i find the prices colapse rapidly. Below that the biggest cost is the set up work for the cutting and printing. One of the alternatives ive seen being used is a sleeve. you get a plain box, and a printed thin card sleeve to wrap the box. but this is usally for smaller boxes.
some info here about suppliers, but not specifically about printing: https://blog.adafruit.com/2014/04/14/alternatives-to-uline-shipping-supplies-shipping-boxes-packing-materials-and-mailing-supplies-makerbusiness-manufacturing-uline/ (has been updated since original posting)
WE ARE LIVE! SHOW AND TELL! https://youtu.be/FLdufgxE47w
WE ARE LIVE! ASK AN ENGINEER! https://youtu.be/UjE0MNMDESE
ASK AN ENGINEER 12/13/2023 LIVE!
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com
LIVE CHAT IS HERE! http://adafru.it/discord
Subscribe to Adafruit on YouTube: http://adafru.it/subscribe
New tutorials on the Adafruit Learning System: http://learn.adafruit.com/
----------------------------------...
Stickers are cheap too.
i just deepfried a potentiometer which caused the smoke detector to go off
it was a canon event
accidentally connected 5v to output
I've done that more than once. Ah, the smell of burning Ohmite.
yep, was my first time tho
on the plus side you know your smoke detector works 😆
oh yeah, the old "hook the wiper to one end of the pot to get a nonlinear output voltage" while wired between power and ground, then turning it to the wrong end…
kind of, i was just getting some wires ready and plugged the wrong one into the central port
confused the 5v with the analog output…
i also now know that its really annoying to turn off and also really loud
Tell you guys what... after hundreds of times typing = and == in CP, I still do it wrong and wonder where my mistake was... 🙁 I DO know the difference...
cp?
circuitpython
mate i sometimes copy-paste code and then forget to change up a number, like 1 -> 2
and then debug for 2 hours
that happens in most of the programming languages i use (i also invert booleans the wrong way a lot)
worst bug I had to debug from one of my projects was mixing up x and z in some collision raycasting code for procedurally generated levels, where parts of the layout were 'correct' and then others it was passing through, and had a visualizer etc for everything, had no idea... then eventually noticed I had used x twice 
i was writing a config file parser and accidentally used 1 twice instead of 1 and 2
was debugging for 1.5 hours

this took more than 2 hours to debug 
AND I love forgetting to add the semi-colon end-of-line when I have to switch to Arduino
EOL markers really screwed me up in the early days (Pascal sux, folks)
i know this chat isn't "real time" (so to speak), but is anyone experiencing outages for microsoft-owned properties? i can't get bing, linkedin, or github to respond (or even duckduckgo, which i believe is on azure)
all fine here. maybe MS just banned
github and some other azure services working fine for me
interesting -- traceroute sends me to a cogent server (all 4) and then just bounces around, but if i check microsoft.com it goes through the same server but exits
gah
heh, the internet has re-routed and it's working 😏
Me: stares at 5 CM4 I can’t use because I don’t have any carriers
i seeeee
maybe you should send me one.
did you think about that? no, didnt think so
haha
i have to rearrange all my guitar cad files today. that will be entertainging
Lol
anyone know what TD[1] and TD[2] mean here? (pinout for the adafruit feather NRF52)
The key says it's their "pin function" but I can't find anything more than that on google
I thought it might be like... interrupts? but this board accepts interrupts on every pin
nvm, did some research: it's a shortening of TraceData. The NRF52, on top of having SWD, has the ability to view "traces" from the cortex M4's "Instrumentation trace macrocell (ITM)" & "Embedded trace macrocell (ETM)" via a 4 pin protocol on the TraceData pins
That would save me a lot of time
i like that it is all recognisable gear. delta robots and suction cups
Got a nice little vector scope. Now I can tune my handmade antennas the housing changes it quite a bit so after turning it with the housing was able to peg it right at 900 MHz and the range of the radio and it has a nice reception on higher bands making it perfect for tracking airplanes also.
this is the type of thing i'm looking from abs prints
have you seen the bambu a1, it's beautiful for only $640 cdn
ah good to see their solution to the breaking windows
You can, it is just not as convenient as stacking Feathers.