#show-and-tell
1 messages · Page 22 of 1
I've made a tool that automates the placement of clusters of parts in KiCAD : https://github.com/cgarcia2097/kle-placement-router
I wrote up a blog post on resistance and voltage dividers: https://blog.demofox.org/2021/06/27/resistance-and-voltage-dividers/
I put together one of those Conway's Game of Life kits. I was out of practice with soldering but it turned on and worked first try so going slow and careful paid off.
I have been fascinated with Conway's Game of Life since I read about it it Steven Levy's book, Hackers when I was a young teenager. Adafruit sells a kit that plays it in hardware, so I really enjoyed building this kit. The kits can connect for larger numbers of cells, so I will be building some more.
The RP2040 QT Trinkey plus a Wii Nunchuck breakout and some nylon standoffs make a pretty cool and compact custom nunchuck adapter 😄
I made an Arduboy that has Rumble , and an "Ardumiibo" scanner for putting real life 3d printed collectibles into your Arduboy games.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLI37KAai0mUhJ3Yi7gZaNxqZhPj6SuK46
Here's my fully-featured HID compatible, plug and play remote receiver. Took a few hours of work.
Not bad for the AMG8833 8x8 thermal sensor! Uses linear interpolation code from here: https://learn.adafruit.com/improved-amg8833-pygamer-thermal-camera/circuitpython-code but stripped right back for use in my PicoPicorder.
Today in the lab.
I made a thing 😄
Project AGV made for my mechatronics study. this is only the engine part.
Easy to use and attach sensor and electronics ontop.
All files free to use. Head over to:
https://github.com/Remlly/AGV
Do send me videos or pictures of your project
Music: ride of the valkyries
CAD program: solidworks student edition.
I make no money of this and cl...
Hi @clever plank, you've done a very nice job on the design, especially choosing to not start with a kit but from the ground up. I'm curious to know more about its programming. I see from the video you've added ultrasonics on the front and sides, so how have you gone about making the robot autonomous? And any plans for bumpers or an IMU (to detect collisions or falls) should the ultrasonics fail?
Oh hey
either that was intentional (thank you) or I got lucky that the neopixels are on one of the pins I can use as the (unused) SPI Tx, because PIO isn't working yet and bitbang neopixel is gross
Making my Matrixportal query my Octoprint server to get the current print status, still needs stability work. Top row is the current file, middle is time left, bottom is a progress bar
Working on an idea I had for the PyPortal that will do the same but show snapshots of the current print as well
@twilit rune I just saw this. Very nicely done. When are you publishing the library? I think you called it 'bb_spi_lcd'
I had to print a few keys before getting it "just right". Big thanks to the author of "KeyV2" openscad library for 3d printable keycaps!
my custom key profile can print with the "face" of the keycap right on the bed, making it easy to do the colored legend by a single "change filament at layer height".
the stem geometry is REAL fiddly so there's a lot of trying while changing the two adjustment numbers by .05mm or less per test; and then just swapping rolls of filament [both were hatchbox brand PLA] it can stop fitting. It required patience.
I referenced a handful of learn guides and threw together a Macropad with multiple keymaps. Holding down the rotary encoder while turning changes the keymap. The screen updates with the current keymap and key legend. I posted my code to GitHub. https://github.com/dgriswo/Macropad_RP2040
OLED Vanity: 5x5 grid display https://gist.github.com/rsbohn/3683b5776edf254c584e93cafdcd8bbb
With all the color sensibilities of Star Trek: The Animated Series 🙂 but the enclosure 3d printable design is essentially finished and I'm pretty happy with the geometry. I could make the "rim" go up a bit more, though.
Ohhh that looks great
Just want to share a project someone else is doing that uses a board I made 🙂 https://mobile.twitter.com/deckerego/status/1411752369768046598
Congrats, skerr
I just open-sourced a project i've been working on. It's IoT display gadget firmware for esp based boards. https://github.com/tavdog/general-tron/tree/master
Hey all, I have a project I'd like to share. I'm calling it the PowerBand for now. Here are the features in V2 which I just finished:
Feather S2 and 128x64OLED with STEMMA Fuel Gauge and Temp/Humidity Modules and a port for extending the chain. A 2000mah battery pack and a custom dial selector that I designed using what I'm calling "magnetic haptic feedback" which selects 2 lasers, a light, black light, and originally a flashlight until I ran into some trouble. Let me know what you think!
Oh - and it's also a charger for my earbuds... I integrated the soundpeats t2 into it. It also has 3 custom connector magnetic pogo pin ports supplying 3.7, 5 and 12v.
Something that would be very useful not only in the next iteration of this project is a basic mosfet switching STEMMA module that just has something like 8 outputs for switching up to 12V or more ideally. If anyone could give any assistance with designing such a board I do have some experience just not specifically with STEMMA. I'm also not formally trained, so most of the deeper maths and circuit methodology I wont be able to follow. Let me know if this makes sense
Maybe a product idea for @exotic sierra 's Oak Dev Tech?
The usefulness is pretty clear I think but especially in this scenario because you accomplish with i2c what would normally be a ton of IO which would all need wiring through the neckband to the other side
this dial uses a series of magnets and a selector magnet to activate Reed switches through a waterproof wall. My next plan is to use a magnetometer instead and then switch mosfets like discussed but a serial module would be ideal (a STEMMA magnetometer already exists)
I kinda wanna make that now (the STEMMA MOSFET board)
A little math could convert the magnetometer readings to an angle, which you could then use to control something just like a rotary control, but coupled via a magnetic field.
That's the idea ^
I do YouTube as well, not much on electronics thus far (mostly philosophy) but it's this https://youtube.com/channel/UCpbR9Ga1GcroozoVKi70hMg
not sure if that's koscher for the chat so apologies if not. Anyway if anyone could help me understand the hardware requirements for the STEMMA switch board or a general methodology for how to go about tackling that project I'd be really appreciative.... I want to learn primarily here
maybe #help-with-projects?
but in general, (assuming you are talking about the mosfet board?) you'll need to specify a lot more specifications than "8 channels, 12V or maybe more"
Sure. I guess the problem is I'm not sure of the full requirements yet but generally I overbuild things and so I would spec it for up to 16V on maybe 2 of 6 outputs and up to 5 on the others... that part's somewhat arbitrary. I've designed a mosfet board that switched a 300w TEC bundle off an adafruit trinket pro but I really don't know the nitty gritty details of the IC aspects of doing a STEMMA correctly if that makes sense. I'll probably crosspost over on help-with; thanks. If anyone wants to DM me to talk more or collaborate please do.
Put some bling into Collin's MP3 Feather. Using the 1x4 NeoKey QT board. Added the 4 button as a previous mode button
Finished print with this much filament left (the piece on the left)
Sooooo good though
For the ham radio operators, here is a touch Morse Code keyer run by the Feather RP2040. Two connections for touch the dot and dash. Two buttons, preprogrammed to send common messages, rotary encoder to change the keying rate and a toggle to control two different radio transmitters.
key detail. small PC pad grounded with 1 meg resistor.
Interior view. Feather is on a small proto board for ease in connections.
Would be nice to print in plastic, but the Radio Frequency signals from high power transmitters demand that all be shielded in aluminum cases
You can use aluminum foil on the inside of a chassis, with a spray adhesive.
Maybe, but a few holes in an aluminum bud box is far simpler and probably not as toxic.
This an open-source project?
I'd like to see about building one
@slow sky soon! I'll be making a guide out of it with Adafruit in the next weeks.
It'll have PCB design files, 3d printable files, etc
Oop
I'm excited, emote got sniped
yeah, the name of the emoji hit a content filter. We like to keep the language all-ages here.
I understand that, looking forward to the project
I've had a heck of a fun time working on it!
Lightsaber go woosh
It was my first time a solidering project went my way with out error and I didn't have to trouble shoot for 10 years
something like this?
yeah thats the idea. I'd prefer solid state though
@narrow topaz that's awfully bulky too... obviously mosfets are more difficult and take a little more technical ability but some basic nmosfets should be doable in a satisfactory form factor i think
@floral parcel 😍
I'm really curious how many amps you were wanting out of the board?
Hi Guys. I've uploaded the stls and sketch to the following link - https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/70434-tron-legacy-disc-display-with-base-and-electronics
Tron Legacy mini disc and display base
well I may be putting in an order for a I2C controlled 4-channel MOSFET board >_> (assuming the thing works and I didn't do something quite silly)
I believe @exotic sierra has some magnetic encoders in his shop
Do I?
Oh wait
I thought about carrying them but I never actually found one I liked to carry
The AS5162 is one possibility
But with a little trig, you can use an ordinary 2-axis linear sensor as a magnetic angle sensor too
Fancy!
often freehand stuff looks better than I could do with a "clean" design, and it's much faster
Waiting for my prototype boards and the parts, but my design for an i2c controlled 4 channel n-mosfet driver (sorry, you put a good idea in my head)
@lean zodiac thanks for the schematic man!
- not a man, 2. I'm probably gonna be selling it, but do plan on releasing the files as open-source hardware as soon as I'm sure it doesn't blow up
- apologies. 2. sounds good
( also I'm stuck until August anyway, as the micro I'm using is back-ordered until then, which was one of the earliest I could find )
yikes. yeah seems like that's a common situation. I appreciate the feedback; I think it's a nice module to have at anyone's disposal
Honestly idk how smart this is but I'm in communication with a patent attorney about the magnetometer dial idea.... it's expensive obviously. I know basically nothing still about patent/intellectual property law but if anyone could point me in a useful direction I'd be appreciative... as in are there resources available to inventors who want to publish open source but just don't know how/make some type of revenue from their work? Thanks.
ive searched the uspto and didnt find anything remotely similar honestly
i know the basics of searching but just don't know the resources available to me as an inventor honestly. i have 2 or 3 other novel ideas i just can't get anywhere
i work at a smoke shop. i dont have 2 or 3 grand floating around esp after the pandemic lol
i have an idea for a waterproof spooling mechanism for wires....so imagine retractable earbuds for this project but waterproof
infinite waterproof rotary switches also dont exist
that I've seen or can find
for infinite, you probably want "encoder" not "switch"
true
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/54/3315-776436.pdf is IP67 (no ingress of dust, protection against the effects of immersion in water between 1cm and 1m for 30 minutes)
with regard to the magnetometer dial reader, note that this device https://rochestergauges.com/product/jr-and-sr-r3d-dials-lp/ has been around for quite a while. Rotary Hall sensors are common. It's also patented https://patents.google.com/patent/US6564632B2/en
Application The Rochester Remote Ready Dial, R3D® – LP, is a magnetically-driven, Hall Effect compatible dial. Dials are utilized on stationary applications where direct reading plus an electrical signal to a remote fuel level monitor may be required. Models are available to fit all Rochester Junior, Senior and Snap-Onliquid-level gauges. Roche...
A liquid level gauge assembly including a dial assembly having a shaped magnet and a removable magnetic detector with a magnetic sensor, preferably a Hall sensor. The dial assembly can provide both visual and electrical signal outputs of the liquid level measured by the gauge assembly. The shaped magnet has a variable thickness which, in c...
I know they use a series of halls for DC sin motors but that's a series of switches similar to the reed switch design i made
Not sure if infinite waterproof is sufficiently different to merit a patent. It would take $$$ to write it so, IMO.
is a basic magnetometer module using hall effect or maybe EBE?
or is it literally a magnetic pin on a potentiometer nowadays?
what you really want are these https://www.nve.com/lreSensors
I'll be using one of these https://www.nve.com/angleSensors in our own product. Note the choice if interfaces.
a thought... you could almost have a 3 dimensional dial in this regard. if it was a flat sided ball like a 20 sided die almost you could roll it around in a housing and get settings too... kinda niche and weird but maybe itll spur an idea
thanks for the info
trackball? 😉
pretty much!
yeah
it'd be a weird feel. it would be really cool to have the die be suspended but defeats the concept of having a magnet suspended
you couldn't magnetically levitate it if it was a polar magnet that you needed to adjust the orientation of that is
@dreamy cipherOne of the requirements to obtain a patent is that it must not be obvious to a skilled practitioner in the trade.
For example, if you asked several engineers how to do what you are proposing, would any of them describe something similar.
Another requirement is a similar design must not have ever been openly published. Not simply that you can't find a similar patent.
careful.. you can't suspend a magnet without active control. Basic physics theorem, Earnshaw's Theorem. q.v.https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=electromagnetic-levitation
K&J Magnetics - Incredibly strong neodymium magnets at affordable prices. Large variety of stock rare earth magnets available.
i've never tried it and know very little about it i just want a floaty selection die lol. maybe considering that fact though levitating a die in such a manner would probably give you all the data you needed anyway for selections. the question would be if there have been experiments with machines that could compensate for someone fiddling with something you're actively balancing
The short answer is yes. An active control would probably involve generating pulses of repelling fields. That implies use of coils, which implies that the coils are reacting to the motion of the levitated object by generating an induced voltage. Also a basic physics theorem, Lenz's Law.
The levitation problem has been solved in real life in, for example, levitating magnetic trains.
yeah, I've seen people levitate supercooled balls and whatnot and i know they use it in maglev...side note i know johnson controls is working on a maglev compressor for their york chillers... probably already in production. anyway this is an interesting concept i think. maybe I can come up with something clever to simulate the concept
maybe instead of levitating it you repel it against a housing and push it down to select
Have fun. One of my grad sch. classmates wanted to show me how to to make a high-Tc superconductor in a microwave oven. Never took him up on it tho.
sounds like a wise choice haha
have them send pictures 😉
so let me know if this checks out... if the "cage" or housing the selection die was made of ferrous metal then a spherical magnet should always be attracted to it no matter the orientation, correct?
or even if there was a sufficiently large piece of ferrous metal at the center point where you would want attraction, correct? so in which case rather than repel a magnet with changing field just have a metal "attractor" to orient it
Not sure I get the geometry, but a general result for inverse-square forces is that a particle within a surrounding shell subject to the same force experiences no force at all. A charged particle in a conducting hollow sphere suspends itself at the center. This is true for gravity as well, since it's an inverse-square force.
I'll try to draw up some cad to demonstrate the concept. if i'm understanding what youre saying that's equally interesting but I'm not convinced that's the case (that i'm understanding correctly lol)
effectively the sphere would be a 12 sided die in this case and the cage/housing would be ferrous or there would be a ferrous piece of metal where the smaller ball is floating above. the sensor would be at the bottom tracking the potted magnet in the die
you would depress the die and rotate it in the housing to select a new setting
it would be really cool if you induced a current into the die on each side where you potted a small led and it lit the die up in a different color depending on its orientation lol
could also just hook it to the MC though and change it that way
that would make more sense if you could get it to behave the way im describing because you could actually scroll it easier
If you can get enough little coils in there, you could create small currents from the electromagnet if it's strong enough? Might need some research and experimentation, but that's basically how wireless charging works...
There's a video on youtube showing little wirelessly powered LEDs like that
I built a pi slackbot to control our ac at the makerspace. I made the pi part, my friend Josh designed an adapter to hook up the ac vent exhaust to an exhaust fan. He also added a heat sensitive switch to turn the exhaust fan on high when it gets over 104. We tested it twice and it works so far none of the hot bits read above 115 after a half hour of use. It will need some more testing before it can fulfill it's purpose of precooling the makerspace before meetups.
only thing that makes me sad is that its not dual hose
I'll show my project in Wednesday, is there any adictional software I must download? Oh. I found a page with the information.
World's first hand-wired analog keyboard (macro pad) is complete! Goes well with my Riskeyboard 70 😄 https://gfycat.com/fluidsevereairedale
Hi! I’m kinda new here (and new to electronics beyond simple e-textiles), but I recently made a light-up helmet with a Metro Mini and some Neopixels 🌟
nice
If you're new to electronics it'd be hard to tell from the project, looks pretty impressive. Great job!
Ah thanks!! I have experience with soft circuits but I’m wanting to figure out new ways to combine electronics with fashion/accessories.
Admittedly I struggle with electronics but it helps to document each of my projects in my own words. I enjoy the challenge haha — here’s more about the helmet if anyone’s curious 🥰 https://www.brittzay.com/blog/robot-unicorn-helmet-rgb-led
Robot Unicorn Attack! Robot Unicorn Attack! Robot Unicorn Attack! (I believe this is how Zippy the Pinhead would handle that name.)
I like that you felt the need to provide a safety disclaimer... and your choice of paper mache to get you to the vacuum mold. Kinda classic.
...and I thought I recognised the accent. I'm up in the Wellington area (Kapiti coast). Hello across the Cook Strait!
Welp you can never be too careful with the safety disclaimers - especially on the internet haha
Wonderful to meet another kiwi on here!! Really happy to have found this server, a lot of it goes completely over my head but everyone seems so helpful 😊 looking forward to learning more!
You're I must say (with no negative intent) somewhat of a typical Kiwi: modest, which is a good thing. From watching your video I'm sure you'd be entirely capable of making a much more complicated electronics rig under your next project. Both Adafruit and Pimoroni have lots of cool hardware with relatively easy software libraries backing them up, as you've clearly already found. You did everything right, even used shrink wrap on your wire connections, a solderless breadboard for prototyping, you've got an engineer's brain as well as an artist's, so sky's the limit! I have a background in both engineering and the arts so I'm qualified to judge 😆
BTW, did you design all or some of the Wild South clothing? I've been looking for a jumper for my partner and there's a few that look very nice.
Ah, sorry, I answered my own question: "The following garments are styles I have designed, and/or have had a role in the product development." The Cotton Stripe Stitchy Knit and Bamboo Cotton Silk Cable Knit are among them...
I had some generous help from a family member who gave tips along the way, but I do appreciate hearing that haha.
The only thing I wasn’t so sure about was if resistors were required or not with the Neopixels? The resources I followed used them, but I still don’t know a whole lot. Planning on revising that for the next project.
(Welcome to DM me about Wild South, yes I design for them haha)
Well, we're both on the same time zone and it's waaay past bedtime for me, work tomorrow morning.
As for the NeoPixels, you're actually on the right server to get help with that kind of thing -- there should be Adafruit personnel around who can answer any of those questions, and they have their own forum as well where their techs are quite helpful (same with Pimoroni too).
Have a good night!
Appreciate it! Will look into it :)
the Adafruit Neopixel Überguide might answer some questions on that: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/best-practices
RK84 Macro keypad extension. Running with a Pro Micro. 5 hot-swappable switches, a rotary encoder, and an OLED screen. Don't forget the neopixel RGB 😉 Just started developing the QMK firmware for it. The Custom PCB is "plugged in" to the keyboard via a 3D printed frame that slots into the USB port.
And SA Laser novelties
Or GMK? Not really sure from this angle actually
Something Laser
A few parts from my friend abroad.
2x esp32's
1x usb 2.0 host shield
1x digispark attiny85
i have a plan tho
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GMK! 🙂
In the lab...
In.. Dexter's lab?
@normal estuaryhow do you wire those rotary switches
Looks like perfboard connections in V1 and a PCB breakout for V2. Dunno if the PCB is custom or from someplace else?
ok cool
Resistors are 10k
ahh ok
Yeah most of the rotary encoders are the same pinout.
ok something to mess with thanks
For proto 2, I made the PCB and is designed for TinyPICO. But Proto 2 isn’t working and I’m waiting on Proto 3 PCBs. They have simpler routing.
I can create a schematic for Proto 1 and share my ESPHome yaml today after work.
thanks
Thanks for the Linsn LED video wall tutorial. I used it to rebuild this roadside traffic sign into Big Orange Dance Machine. https://mcm.org/big-orange-dance-machine/
Last project I did had the AdaFruit breakout for a gas sensor, made my life so much easier
Those NeoKeys remind me of this thing I had made because the switches fall out too easily... Because no, I'm not gonna glue my switches in place...
hmm that reminds me of that old 3d rendering of robot head
Ah yes, good plate!
the screws aren't really needed either, but they make it 100% stable instead of 80% stable
Yeah I much prefer having screws/standoffs for hotswap sockets
Based on a comedy sketch by David Mitchell called "Birth of Cheesoid"
just looked at that quick
interesting
i couldnt find what i meant sadly. its quite old. 80s, maybe 70s, 3d render tech demo
it has nose like that, it goes into cup of water, it sucks it up and head turns transparent as it fills with water
it's be laughably easy to do now, but it wasnt back then
Took some help from the fine folks hanging around #help-with-circuitpython , but I now have a MiniMacroPad to use for work so I don't have to type out long things all the time! Big time saver. Just need to print a case!
Hi all, I'd like to share with you all a project that I've working for +2 years... (6 months ago a posted here a WIP version).
TL;DR: It is Bluetooth gamepad support for CircuitPython.
https://gitlab.com/ricardoquesada/bluepad32-circuitpython
If you have any questions, please, let me know. Happy to help!
@inland vale neat! I'd suggest email cpnews@adafruit.com about it too
thanks. I'll do that 🙂
Howdy folks! I hooked up a CO2 sensor, and I’m excited about it: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/845457104085319700/866985608115257384/IMG_7144.mov
No? It’s still fine. Why do you ask?
oh i saw what i thought was smoke coming off right part
Ah. Nope - the auto exposure is definitely set weird from the non-diffused LEDs being in frame though.
lol ok thats good then
I actually did something like that myself, but I used full breadboards both sides
Why not use a saw? XD
Oof... Well, at least you didn't slip and ruin the whole thing XD
for a guy that shattered his arm i have steady hands
i'm waiting for my last opperation but covid has delayed it
Oof...
So my grandpop has trouble staying on the line to sign his signature... So I made him this little guide plate! (Ignore the ugly print, need to tweak printer settings, but it'll work fine)
awww :)
It's amazing what a few grams of plastic can be so easily molded into these days
yeah :D
i feel blessed with my Ender 3v2
it has rekindled all of my past hobbies
I love my Ender 3 Pro. But that didn't print this, I used my baby printer XD
i wouldn't even be here doing electronics today if i hadn't gotten it just a few weeks ago
My baby printer with minor mods... Working on a mod for the interface so it's not hidden under the bed and isn't just a click wheel knob
Mhmm. It's not amazing, but I love it
yeah it's cute ^w^
And so portable!
So have you experienced the extruder or arm hitting those paper clips yet? I have 2 of those with glass plates and I haven't found a good way to attach the clips.
Yeah, when I first put the glass in it was a problem. I just pulled the clips back towards the edge a bit, as pictured
cool. good tip. I'll try that. Thanks!
No problem ^_^
I like glass XD might do that eventually
First thing I've ever made with a micro controller. It's the heart of Te Fiti from Moana. Printed the shell in translucent resin with neopixels, an itsybitsy, and a lipo on the inside.
Ohh, very nice! Will that be part of a cosplay, or was it just because you felt like making it?
quick! put that back where you found it!
lol
lol mother nature is fond of electronics XD
XD
So today I figured out how to get an app into and load from the web-based app loader for the Bangle.js https://www.adafruit.com/product/4811
I modified the simple thermometer app that takes a reading from the heat sensor, only it is in Celsius so I converted it to Fahrenheit for Americans and other people that don't use the Metric system (but its mainly just Americans, right?)
behold XUT: The eXtremely Unergonomic Trackball (pronounced: zoot)
I saw https://www.adafruit.com/product/5060 and decided to see if I could make a finished mouse replacement out of it. My 3D modeling is adequate to make a box with some holes in it, but not to make a device that is at all pleasant to use. Oh well, lessons learned(?)
Might have been more ergonomic to have the buttons around the trackball -- left on the left, right on the right, center on top. Then you can lean your fingers over to left and right click
But also just simple holes with the same buttons
But it's a working thing, so success!
@wary atlas indeed, that is a good idea
I'm not sure I'm going to experiment further, but I'll keep it in mind
Always good to have options, even if you don't explore them
Another option is to place the buttons near where the thumb would rest. You may have to design a wrist rest for it to make sense, though...
Indeed
So I have been struggling to keep a good battery connection to these boards and a friend suggested JST connectors and I have been teaching myself how to make them with a lot of trial and error. If you look on the left that was my best effort to date. With each failed attempt, I would have to cut some wire. What started as a six inch lead ended up at one inch! Almost to the point of unusable. So I ordered 4 more battery holders from Digikey, and the one on the right also started out at 6 inches until I think I finally figured it out, went carefully and now have a nice, solid connection with long leads!
Couldn't you solder in new leads and crimp new connectors?
Or splice new leads, you could add more life that way
I didn't have any appropriate wire and being chronically ill I have not had the spoons to set up soldering for a while. I hope when I feel better I can solder a couple more of the Game of Life kits
Just made it, I am pretty competent at fabrication but am just diving into electronics so going through assorted tutorials, would like to maybe sell props in the future!
I can totally see this being a a control box that someone would pick up with both hands. My wife use to work at a children's museum and they would build stuff like this for exhibits all the time.
You're off to a great start ^_^ I think fabrication and nailing aesthetics is the hard part, and you already have that down pat!
Posted my first ever video, made some weather changing LEDS with some adafruit libraries.. definitely awkward to be on camera but it's a start lol
Bummer, hope you feel better
Thanks! There's a great adafruit neopixel animations library which I was using!
Time to show off my box 
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/816041342626431007/868679936825753650/PXL_20210721_044612208.jpg
humble beginnings
the 3D printed case with little allotments for all the electronics to be placed on :3
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/816041342626431007/868680235485364224/PXL_20210723_120613942.jpg
the electronics installed using I2C technology so that only 4 shared wires are required to connect all the peripheries to the motherboard
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/816041342626431007/868680360635007036/PXL_20210723_145900623.MP.jpg
a test program to ensure the screen is connected correctly
the finished product 
a tricorder sensory package for conducting science and discoveries with :D
We used a regular 3D printer to make a clay 3D printer. Platform based on kossel design. Extruder based on 3 years of head butting a wall... Instagram.com/themakerspace
wow!
That's amazing! Is it using a regular slicer like Cura, or was special software needed? Is there a writeup or guide on the modifications?
My keyboard collection. I love me some Macropads.
Yes just using cura, tuned the nozzle and filament thickness to suit the flow of clay
Once again - THANK U ADAFRUIT!!
<3 <3 <3 Used the little charger to bring the cells in my Sphero RVR battery pack, back up a level where it'll charge & balance itself.
I swear, EVERY makers tool kit should half at least a half dozen of these little gems!!
Nice. I'm guessing the hard part was figuring out how to deliver the clay consistently to the nozzle? Does it actually heat the clay at all?
Exactly right, I started with the rich rap pastestruder years ago, moved to a motor driven a piston, then to compressed air with screw feed. No heating the clay, I don’t think it would be worth the effort, clay takes about 2 days to dry, just need to make sure you geometry suits the process and strength of “wet” clay
I would certainly love a write-up with as much detail as you can muster! So many things I'd love to print in clay... Sadly not enough time to do a tonne of experimenting to get it to work
Next installment of my project to create a custom robot based on Zumo chassis, but with extra manipulators, AI camera, and programmable in Circuit Python
Code is easy, of course, but at least it shows that all hardware works as expected
The MCU, motor drivers, firmware, reflectance sensor array...
Thanks to @exotic sierra for his help with PCB assembly!
That would be a great companion in Left 4 Dead... Grabbin' pillz
I was thinking of a wine bottle, but it calls for a larger robot 🙂
Hehe, that's the next stage
made these 50Wh battery sticks
And unlike VRUZEND, they work perfectly.
I do film photography, developing, and printing. B&W printing uses light-sensitive paper, but it only responds to light at <550nm wavelengths, so a red light (called a safelight) can be used to illuminate the workspace (darkroom) without affecting the paper.
My incandescent safelight bulb burned out and new ones are absurdly priced, but generic red lightbulbs aren't always safe for photo paper, so I figured I would try making my own. LEDs are pretty cheap and pretty bright, and I have done some PCB design, so I found a 2-pin constant-current LED driver and threw together this thing.
That is awesome af
so is that a single module that will go with like, a row of them
or are you doing everything with just that one little thing in a box or something?
is intrigued
ur using now-tech to preserve a past art form.
I wasn't sure how much power I needed, so I included options for 1 or 2 drivers (150 or 300 mA)
That's the whole device
It's the replacement safelight
yes I understand now
Can plug into a standard USB port
And it's way brighter than the original incandescent bulb, with a tiny fraction of the power consumption
I wonder if it would be better to use a shorter wavelength (like 620nm) LED which would give more visibility for the same power (but the film may be more sensitive to it) or a longer wavelength one (like 660nm) which would be a safer wavelength but might require more brightness for the same visibility. I guess the response curve of the photo paper would be useful to determine something like that.
Looks like the old Ortho paper wouldn't care much
The paper is reported to have no sensitivity above 550nm, so as long as the emission spectrum doesn't cross below there, I think it's better to be shorter wavelength for better vision. Film can't be handled under any kind of light, though, so it's only an issue for paper.
Fuji Acros 100 panchromatic paper would care some
I'm using Ilford MG
Looks like I don't have the printed spectrogram
But it cuts off at 550
Will test this soon, hoping to get no fogging with 10 mins exposure
Oh yeah, that nosedives at 550 so you're good. LEDs are nice as they have a narrow band emission without residual light at other wavelengths
Aside from the typo, this is very encouraging
CD test is slightly concerning though, as it shows a slight green tail
I never did the CD test with my old bulb though
I wouldn't expect any green tail with a red LED, unless it's a phosphor-based LED
This one's orange, nominally 617nm
And it's hard to tell how much of a tail there is
Not entirely sure how to read this graph (dotted line means ???) But it looks pretty safe to me
I don't know either, but the dotted line could be "visual intensity", showing where the LED output lies in relation to the perception of its brightness.
If so, it would appear to be about 1/3 as bright as an LED at the peak of visual sensitive (a yellowish green color). Whereas a 660nm one would be about 1/10 as bright.
see
you people are talking about stuff that I have no clue about
That just does NOT happen outside this community.
looks all that up to like, learn it rn
fascinating
Good instincts! 👍
One fun fact related to that is that you're limited in the speed of data you can send in a fiber optic cable because if you try to send too many bits per second, it changes the color of the light too much... 😁
Newbie here, is this where I can share info about my new weather station?
Is it connected somewhere ?
I have it connected to a local MQTT broker, which in turn is a part of my Home Assistant environment. I also upload the weather information to Weather Underground: https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KCASANTA3711/graph/2021-07-27/2021-07-27/weekly
Weather Underground provides local & long-range weather forecasts, weather reports, maps & tropical weather conditions for locations worldwide.
It uses a Raspberry Pi Zero W. It's powered by a solar 12V battery trickle charger, a 12V 8Ah SLA battery, a buck converter to bring it down to 5V.
Nice
I used KiCad to design a custom circuit board to connect to the 2 RJ-11 jacks coming down from the wind and rain sensors and the JST connector for the BME280 sensor card. This card uses the I2C interface. The wind direction is an analog voltage level, so I needed to add an MCP3008 analog to digital converter, and connect it to the SPI pins. The little E-Ink display is also an SPI device, so I needed to connect it to the CS1 GPIO pin and configure the driver to use that instead of CS0.
I chose the E-Ink display as it only requires power to update it. I wanted to be sure that an extended stretch of bad weather wouldn't let the battery run down. The solar panel is 20W, which seems to be plenty, though, and the battery ought to hold for a week by itself.
eInk is great for stuff like that, and even when it does update, it's pretty low draw
Exactly. I only update the display once per minute, enough to show that the system is alive. I think an OLED display would draw significantly more power.
Probably, even if it was only a relatively small number of active pixels at lowered brightness
I still need to build some kind of Kiosk display for Home Assistant, so the weather information is visible without being on the computer or phone. I haven't decided what that should be...
For indoor or outdoor use?
For indoor use. This whole project began because I was frustrated at how poorly the remote temperature sensor for my LaCrosse weather station worked. Also, I wanted to see wind direction and speed. But then, this needed to be away from the house to be effective. So then, it needed to use WiFi to get the distance. So then... and down the rabbit hole!
I already have a Raspberry Pi with a HiFiBerry DAC board running Volumio to play music. That's using the Pi's 7" touch screen. I might go that way again for the kiosk, but as the weather station is only running a Pi Zero and the touch display only works with a Pi 3 or 4, that seems like overkill.
(Of course, this whole project seems like overkill! 🙂 )
Just a bit. But isn't that what makes this so much fun?
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Since the main purpose of this is a simple display and not extensive logging and data analysis, a small display with buttons or a gesture sensor would probably be enough.
If you wanna get fancy, you could build a smart mirror and integrate it that way, too...
Oh? What's a smart mirror?
I do want a nicer display, so I can also use it to control Home Assistant switches.
The idea is to stick a display behind a sheet of one-way glass/acrylic, and finish it off with your own framing or mounting of preference.
Ah, interesting. Maybe I could build one that has voice response, so I can ask it who the fairest in the land is...? 😆
BTW, love the XKCD cartoon in the mirror, much better than a fortune cookie!
Round one prototype!
got the wrong footprint for one part (and had it backwards anyway, but could still bodge-wire across it to test) + still don't have the micro (which I will hand-solder on once I get it)
horrible alignment too but
Very!
ikr
Electronics test on my TRON legacy baton build
I built a similar weather station, and am also pondering what to do for a local phone-less display. Smart mirrors come to mind, but I also have a couple of 1602LCD displays.
I think I have the same weather station sensor kit, working with the analog voltage/resistance readings for wind direction was certainly interesting! The RJ11 jacks were a bit of a struggle for me, I ended up just using some phone cords with the ends chopped off. Dedicated board for those would be an awesome iteration
@sterile gazelle I have extra boards (had to order 5 minimum), or I could send you my KiCad files if you want to play with it. I started out trying to create solder traces on a perf board, but found it beyond tedious and difficult to get solder to flow where I wanted and not where I didn't...
I don't have a photo of the populated board that I actually used, unfortunately, but it was easy to put together. As you can see, the board is as long as a Pi Zero and about 2X as wide.
You can see my python code for the station at: https://github.com/darrylri/weather_station
Personally I would recommend an eInk display to keep power draw low, but if you want a high refresh display, a Sharp memory display might be a better option. They don't need to power a backlight, you can see them from ambient light alone, so they're lower power than a regular LCD.
More e-Inks
Ohh, one with a backlight, that's cool!
Spent last night hacking around using the tone player code at https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-macropad-rp2040/macropad-tone as a starting point. This allows multiple keys to be pressed at once (using a stack to track the order that the keys were pressed), and lights up the currently playing key brighter than the others. Releasing the current note will fall back to the next pressed key in the stack, if there is one. I made a gist if anyone is interested (https://gist.github.com/apendley/801177211bb55c780847e885f38ec418), just grab the project bundle from the macropad learn guide and replace the code.py file.
Nice! I was thinking about how I could use the speaker on the macropad, and my 2yo son will love pressing the keys to see it light up and hear it
Awesome! 😄
I currently have it setup as hotkeys, added Zoom, Google Meet, and Lightroom macros. Is there a channel for MacroPad or the AdaBoxes?
Would be cool to have a place to share macros
@lean elbow Interesting! If you'd like, you can submit it to the MacroPad library under the examples/ directory. It's different enough from the basic tone example that I wouldn't mind including it. You'll need to add our licensing bits to the top, but you would include your name as the author.
Here is as good a place as any to share your code. We don't have a specific channel.
Oh okay! I'll try to do that in the next day or two!
Great! Feel free to post any questions you have about the process in the #help-with-circuitpython channel or the #circuitpython-dev channel and someone (possibly me, but this leaves it open for others too) will be able to assist you.
Will do, thank you! 🙏
hey all! i love the ingenuity behind all the products at adafruit, i've been piecing a little something together to solve something in my life.
i made a thing for parties where people can send messages to a phone number and have them appear on a big screen (https://github.com/souramoo/TextWall), using the twilio api and a webpage using socket.io and nodejs as a backend, and in the past it's always needed my laptop to be present. i've been invited to a wedding in nov and my dear friend who is the bride asked if i can provide the same there too - i'm a little nervous about leaving my laptop unattended, and so i thought i'd build a better solution. i got a raspberry pi zero w, and was going to use that to drive the screens instead cause then i don't need to worry if it gets stolen/lost.
eventually i ended up building myself a cheap multifunctional portable linux computer with a tiny screen and battery (very cyberpunk lol) so that i can use it for other projects too, and set it up so that it's always connected to cloudflare via argo tunnelling so i can ssh into it from my desktop wherever it is, and set it up so that it autoconnects to my phone's wifi hotspot if i'm out and about
still todo:
- trim down the gpio pins on the pi to get an even more slim profile between the rpi and the minitft hat
- pisugar2 battery pack arriving tomorrow!
- framebuffer based keyboard that i can use the joystick and buttons to operate so i can use the shell on the go from the device
- autolaunch chromium on the hdmi output when new screen connected and navigate to whatever the python ui directs it to
anyone got any other ideas for a cheap tiny auxillary linux machine? 🙂
(the final ui will aim to look something like https://static.wikia.nocookie.net/marvelcinematicuniverse/images/a/a0/TVA_TemPad.png/revision/latest/scale-to-width-down/1000?cb=20210619231047 lol)
Can't really beat the rasppi products for form factor and support
@tidal ermine yep, I love pi0w and pitft, great combination of products
I did something similar, loads of fun
ooh cool! what did you use the buttons for? i'm coding up something to listen and then translate it into keypresses on the console, and using ncurses to build up a UI
I used the buttons for moving the reticle, changing the scale, freeze frame, saving a png, adjusting emissivity correction, etc @tidal ermine
A “SMART” BUILD PLATFORM FOR MANUAL PCB ASSEMBLY
https://hackaday.io/project/179878-pnpassist
The PnPAssist is an open source innovative CNC table that position the next SMT component with a proper orientation for you to make hand assembly a lot more fun and way more efficient.
PnPAssist is a numerical, precise positioning device that makes tedious and repetitive manual PCB assembly easier for you and prevents you from making mistakes.
...
Pins shaved down, UI coded, battery pack added, let's go with my little cyberpunk auxillary computer
Very cool
@distant raftI saw that on Twitter - very cool indeed!
Wrote a python Daemon that listens to the joystick and buttons, and translates that into keypresses for the console :)
Thank you. @marble mantle You can find the discord server link on project page. We are trying to make it better together
Made a case for my macropad. The files are on thingiverse if anyone wants to print one. Its 2 parts - a cover that replaces the part you press the key switches in to and an optional shell. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4922256 I'm working on a slimmer version that replaces the bottom plate with the shell and has optional angled feed.
This is a form fitting case I designed for the Adafruit Macropad. Its designed to be used with square keys but will probably work with regular key caps. It has 2 pieces:
- Cover/Key plate - A top plate that the key switches press in to before attaching them to the circuit board. This replaces the part that comes with the kit.
- Shell - A ...
I found a keycap on thingiverse and made a set by boolean-ing out some shapes I made in illustrator.
Printing in orange is okay, but then all LED colors are orange 😁 Will look to do another batch in the future when I get a white filament that diffuses.
nice, my next project is replacing the inside of the relegendables on mine with ones that have a slot for the LED to shine through.
@hard oriole are you able to share your files and settings?
Sure will do. I haven't done that before, so I will have to check the spot on thingiverse to see the rules for sharing modified work. Source was: SA Keycaps by kaelruland on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178185 [SA_Row_3_1u v0] The print settings were: .2 layer height, PLA @ 205, custom support under the stems only. Printed upside down so that if the unsupported bottom printed ragged it would be on the top [less viewed].
@obtuse root and I scaled SA_Row_3_1u v0 in the ZED to about 60%.
Thanks!
Added an option for the shell thats slimmer and has optional feet to let you angle the pad:
Ok, hardware finished!! Added the final piece - custom printed black caps with vinyl cut legends w/ transparent plastic to diffuse the led light. If anyone wants the stl for the printed part I can put it on thingiverse - they print on an FDM printer and replace the white part of the relegendable keycaps that adafruit sells.
I’ve been experimenting with the MacroPad and the NeoTrellis boards … managed to get a 2x2 (8x8 grid) of neotrellis hooked up to macro pad over i2c … using JP’s Live launcher example, I modified it to turn the neotrellis into a clip launcher and the 12 keys on macro pad for transport. Currently looking at using the 8-bit ADC stemma board to add a few faders. Currently all written in circuit python, but I’ll probably port it over to C after my initial prototype is complete. I’ll likely wind up writing a custom live remote script for it as well, as the launchpad mini doesn’t quite cover it all. When it’s a bit more put together, I’ll put code up on GitHub.
Wow - I hadn't thought about doing this... I have a neotrellis lying around too
Yeah, I saw JP’s demo and figured the neotrellis would make a better clip launcher, then figured some faders and additional encoders could be useful … full blown control surface, 🤷♂️
Yeah - its hard not to keep adding. I've ordered one of those tiny i2c trackballs for mine. I think I'm going to try to add it to the side of the case and make an ergonomic mouse/macropad all-in-one
Nice - don’t think I’ve seen a track ball, got a link?
A tiny, RGBW-illuminated, clickable Trackball Breakout that's perfect for adding navigation or control to your Raspberry Pi or Arduino projects. We've taken a trackball module from everyone's favourite fruit-flavoured phone and added a bunch of clever engineering to let you build old-school interaction into your projec
For those interested, here’s the code repo for the macropad neotrellis launch grid project I’m working on https://github.com/zoul0813/adafruit-launchgrid
Finished upgrading my war driving pi to a pi 4. Parts include pijuice, berryimugps, buzzer, rgb led, USB wifi x2, USB Bluetooth. I wanted it done now so I hot knifed my old pi 3 case into a pi 4 case.
2.2kw
Please post to thingiverser. Thanks!
Added the STL to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4922256
This is a form fitting case I designed for the Adafruit Macropad. Its designed to be used with square keys but will probably work with regular key caps.
Update: Added an STL for the relegendable keycap with slot. It replaces the opaque part of the relegendable keycaps they sell on Adafruit and other sites.
Both use the same cover/key plate.
Co...
The legends are a little trickier since they aren't printable. What I did was found something that was easily cut-able and diffuse and used my craft cutter to cut black vinyl sticker with the slot, stuck the sticker on to the diffuse material and trimmed the edges
Hey all! Using a Trinket M0 and Adafruit's USB foot pedal tutorial/3d files, I made Shoom—a foot-activated webcam to show off your sneakers.
lol interesting
I love this
thank you!
Ok, that's delightfully hilarious. (And thank you for presumably trimming the end of the video before posting it. 😄 )
oh and if any of you are as interested in dumb stuff as I am, here's how it all works: https://github.com/lanewinfield/shoom
I've passed this on to be added to the Python on Hardware newsletter that Adafruit produces. 🙂
awesome!
I'm a retired electronic engineer. (Being retired is the best job I've had so far.) I had a 40 some year career designing and programming things that contained microprocessors. I don't have anything resent to show but I'm looking to get back into making gadgets just for fun.
I wrote an essay about the first thing I designed and built, a light-seeking robot, when I was around 12 years old in 1964. Nothing digital back then. It was all analog and it was inspired by a Carl & Jerry story I read in Popular Electronics. I still have that robot. You can see a picture of it and read the essay here: https://shavers.page/?p=39
Adafruit has some amazing things going on. Thanks for creating a fantastic company and all the info you put out in the world.
FeatherS2, using CircuitPython and a small handful of "libs" I wrote to interface easily with Atlas sensors (and NTP). This uses the Whiteboxes Hydroponics Kit, and measures nutrient solution Temp, pH, TDS, and EC (with Air Temp and RH coming)! I'll get the code on Gitlab in the not too distant future 😄 The kit comes with a feather huzzah, so I souped it up a bit with the S2 and the OLED shield. The NTP and Wifi bits are important as I'm planning on pushing the data to an IOT cloud of some kind (maybe just local ES, maybe an API somewhere)
I made a flight weather display with the MacroPad. It uses a driver running on the computer to fetch new data and update a JSON file on the CIRCUITPY drive which causes the MacroPad to refresh just like updating code.py
Has anyone found a good way of discovering the CIRCUITPY drive from Python code yet?
My method is using pathlib.Path with some common OS USB drive locations where code.py is in the drive's root. Tested on Mac, Windows, and RPi. Some insight with Linux distros would be helpful since I don't have any of them to test with right now
I made a library/tool to find the full information on connected boards, including drives, serial ports, serial number... The drive part especially had to be platform-dependant and on linux I use psutil.disk_partitions() in particular to find the mounts.
The whole thing is here https://github.com/Neradoc/discotool, the platform stuff is in usbinfos_<platform>.py
You can use it as a library. Install it:
python3 -m pip install discotool-for-microcontrollers
And then something like that for example:
import discotool
for device in discotool.get_identified_devices():
if "Macropad RP2040" in device["name"]:
drive = device["volumes"][0]['mount_point']
with fopen(os.path.join(drive,filename),"w") as fp:
fp.write(filecontent)
Or use device["serial_num"] instead of the name to tie it to a specific device (you can read the serial number by just running discotool from the command line)
That's pretty nifty. I'll give it a try
i dont know why but i love this 👍
Ha! Made a math game for kids on the macropad last night. https://github.com/omixen/macropad-math-game
Looking good! First one down, many more to come, right?
Thanks! That's definitely the plan. This home automation stuff is really cool.
I’m working on a color picker for the macropad. RGB mode works well, HSL mode still has some issues.
Threw it on my pad - turned out my top left key had a pin not seated properly but I fixed it and took a video!
Nice! Thanks for trying it out! 👍
Nice work
thank you
this is not my project but I ran across it today and think it's a really cool idea. Combining together a virtual pet with a pomodoro timer. https://github.com/droxpopuli/pomodachi
There, I have upgraded my AdaBox Macropad with some box whites to test out, and the keycap that was missing from the adabox - fortunately I had planned an order shortly after so I could rectify it 😉
now my run/debug button shows proper adafruit spirit
I can definitely see how hot-swapping key switches can get addictive
didn't realize I needed a "switch puller" for best results, though. had to use the top "structural" pcb to kind of wiggle them loose - which is also why only the corners are upgraded to clicky whites.
maybe I should put the digikey cap on the lower-left corner which is "build"
oh man, where's the product suggestion room... an adafruit key cap that could replace my windows key would be perfect.
(but my main desktop keyboard, while having cherry mx browns, is so old that it lacks a Windows key, so I have my caps lock acting as the windows key, and right now, my secondary keyboard is actually a Lenovo rubber dome that feels pretty decent surprisingly, with reasonably small bezels, smaller than any of my other mechanical keyboards except maybe for a Model M2 which is why I'm using it.)
If you wiggle it side to side carefully enough, you might be able to pull the entire keyswitch plate off and pop switches off from behind. Just take care not to wiggle up and down, as that has a much higher risk of bending pins...
oh thanks for the advice. This is my first experience with these sockets and with bare switches actually
have a few homemade key cap pullers (wire whisk style) but no switch puller yet.
I can probably make one from some random metal bits, though, which is probably the safer bet. that or order a cheap one on amazon
Yeah, the more keys there are, the harder it gets. The macropad can get away with it, but any keyboards larger than 4x4 or have a solid edge should definitely use a switch puller.
I picked up a macropad, and wrote a quick bit of python to turn it into an element tracker for the board game Spirit Island.
(the missing keycap was a bit chewed up in packaging, they're sending some replacements)
Sorry for the vertical video! This is an element tracker I threw together for spirit island, using the Adafruit Macropad RP2040. It's ridiculous overkill for an element tracker, but was a really easy and fun project to throw together. Has all the features I'd pictured. With a bigger color screen I could do some crazier implementations, but t...
The first 1000 people to use this link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership! https://skl.sh/zackfreedman05211
My most over-engineered project of all time is the a flashlight, laser, keystroke injection attack vector, current sensor, infrared thermometer, volatile organic compound sensor, and more. The only thing it's bad at is...
this is gold
i love it so much
Yay VFD!
Can it read terminal puzzles in fallout 3/4 and auto-solve them? 😄
Oooh yeah! My white keycaps with transparent legends and black underset masks came out great!
This print is a brand new thing from my Keycap Playground: It uses the "underset mask" feature to add a 3rd material (equivalent of a triple-shot injection mould) underneath the top of the keycap that provides contrast for transparent legends. Without that mask the white PETG lets too much light through and makes it hard to see the transparent legends. It took 18 hours to print these (0.25mm nozzle) but it was totally worth it! I tested the light using the LEDs of the enclosure but I'll make a nice gif later 👍
this is great. can you post a closeup? Ive been printing my own bases for the relegendable keycaps and then using a vinyl cutter and some translucent plastic for the legends but those are square and wont work well on a more traditional keyboard
Yeah I'll make a gif and post it shortly (when I'm done cleaning the house) 👍
It's bright out at the moment so maybe not the best time to record a keycap made for RGB LEDs though haha
im more curious aboht the texture of the cap with a .25 nozzle and fdm!
Now that I've put some on the keyboard for testing I can see the underset mask needs some adjustment: https://gfycat.com/wellgroomedafraidbobwhite
My phone's camera doesn't have a macro lens
I'm going to re-print these to fix some issues
Mostly with the underset mask but there's an issue on the right side with the overhang on the second layer that I need to fix too
@versed lava Here ya go: https://gfycat.com/admirablegratefularrowana (tried to capture the texture using the light)
As you can see--because I printed them on their sides--the keycap's layer lines run like this: || which should feel smooth on your fingers. No sanding required!
yeah, that looks usable for sure. ill have to give it a go
Even though you don't need to sand it, printing on its side like this makes sanding easier if you want to go there. 320, 400, 600, then 800 grit gives keycaps a really nice texture IMHO. If you want that glass-like feel you can go all the way up to 20,000 😄
@warped siren 's staroids makes it's way to the Pew Pew M4 🚀 🪨
neat!
Hrmmm, I wonder if I went even smaller - 1.5 or 2mm nozzle - it would probably take a month to print a full keyboard - maybe I should spend a little time practicing my sanding!
My wife was concerned that our daughter would lose the teeny tiny USB flash drive I bought her so I made a cover for it. She loves Naruto/Boruto 😁👍. Printing an improved version now with tighter bearing tolerances that also says, "NINJAS" on the right. On the bottom is the Fairy Tail logo with the text, "WIZARDS" 😄
Don’t most people use resin printers for key caps lmao
Yeah - I live in an open concept loft and won't put a resin printer in it. Way too toxic to have in a living space no matter how careful you are
hey folks, I made a little game of life for the macropad https://github.com/stelly-dev/game_of_life_adafruit_macropad
It's probably not the best code since I'm just getting my feet wet with circuit python, but you can play/ pause and draw on the board
Looks like this needs the "adafruit_imageload" Library on top of the default ones the guide tells you to copy over - might want to add it to the readme
Oops! Yep, thanks for the heads up! Just added it to the readme.
Would you happen to know if there's some kind of package manager for Circuit Python? Coming from nodejs I'm used to npm install to get all the dependencies, or should I just be bundling the libs with the project on github?
circup has a couple of options for installing the libraries automatically
- use
circup --autoto automatically install what is imported from code.py (or supply a file name) - use a
requirements.txtfile and callcircup install -r /path/to/requirements.txt
so you can include a requirements file with your project, using either the pypi names for the adafruit bundle Adafruit_CircuitPython_ImageLoad (making it installable with pip install -r for blinka) or the python module names (here it would be adafruit_imageload)
House fire epic style 😎
I’ve never set fire to anything with a usb cable. Ac cables, on the other hand…
Modern USB3 PD cables can help!
They can set fire to anything you want as easily as AC
I made a Majora's M4sk with the Monster M4sk, leather, and antlers. Still trying to get some custom eye code to work, but it's soooo pretty 🙂
Ohhhh
Still didn't assemble the case? :)
Finally got proper keycaps for my low-profile CircuitPython keyboard.
Wow, looks great @cunning lava
I've been using it for almost a year now, as my main keyboard.
I tried but the screws were a bit too big for the holes in the case I could not tighten it all the way down.
I thought about 3D printing a case at one point, but I like the little characters on the silk screen honestly, it'd be a shame to cover them up.
@sharp comet they are self-tapping, with a bit more force they should fit
I applied as much force as I could, the screw ended up getting stripped.
:(
I guess the laser-cutting tolerances are worse than with my prototypes
you can also just glue toothpicks in those holes
or smaller screws and glue
sorry for that
I got a door sensor on an ESP8266 publishing over MQTT, and a raspberry pi subscriber to play a chime.
I think this fine silicone-coated wire is my new favorite, but it unwinds so readily. I put together a little holder for it
you can easily unspool it as you need it
I should do that for some of mine. They're a mess
Also why does it decide an STL file is a text file and try to display it?
So much MESH.
It's really meshed up
Well played.
everything is a text file if you try hard enough
I did one for https://www.adafruit.com/product/4730 too. everything else on my desk is still a mess, but at least the wires are tidy now!
“Daddy, can you make my LEGO music box actually do something??”
Hopefully by the end of a weekend of soldering, CAD work, and 3D printing, this nest of snakes will be a working, self-contained unit. Pretty well got the code worked out, just have to replace the button with a Hall effect sensor and figure out how to run the neopixel sequence in parallel with the ringtone.
I've been working on a high input count USB HID joystick library for CircuitPython, and I think (hope!) it's now stable and usable enough to share! It uses the new USB customization features in the 7.0.0-alpha to dynamically generate a Joystick descriptor with up to 8 axes, 128 buttons and 4 hat (POV) switches, and makes configuring GPIO pins and assigning them to Joystick functions a breeze. Full documentation is provided via Read the Docs, and there are a number of examples provided that demonstrate - among other things - using it with an MCP23017 GPIO expander, MCP3008 external ADC and capacitive touch inputs using an MPR121. I'm using it in my own arcade-style "cockpit" build, and thought others may find it useful as well.
Oooh, this is cool
@solar yew if I remember correctly was looking at building a high-quantity number of inputs joystick
Oh my God I have been looking for something like this
thanks, bookmarked it, I kinda have prioritized other projects atm because I don't like the game enough to make a 400$ joystick for it 😄
I know the feeling. "This is cool. This is not $400 cool."
It's a slippery slope. My build started in 2015 when I discovered that my shiny new Saitek X55 stick/throttle wouldn't stay put on my desk (and weren't comfortable to use at desk height anyway), and it's been an endless cycle of "tinker with gaming chair for ages" followed by brief periods of actually using it for its intended purpose. I don't actually have any decent current pictures of the whole rig, but here's an old one. (Yes, it lives in the unfinished basement...)
Why spend money to finish the basement when you could spend money on this sim?
Ha. Exactly. 😉 It has since been upgraded with additional 3D-printed control panels and neopixels, and the X55 got hacked up to replace the unhelpful generic labels with fancy backlit icons and a fingerprint scanner. The added controls are all using JoystickXL for USB HID comms back to the PC. The NeoPixels are driven from a separate Raspberry Pi.
What do you use the fingerprint scanner for?
Well, the project sounds more like a construction project, something you're building as a hobby, a journey, that has a side benefit of letting you play games on it. But your primary motivation is building things, which I totally understand.
There’s an FSR embedded in the seat that I use for occupancy detection. When you sit down, the neopixel by the fingerprint sensor flashes until you authenticate with it. Assuming your print is recognized, the rest of the chair lights up and the controls are activated.
No guests, then?
Feels sci-fi though. I love it
I know a guy who can get past the auth-block when needed. 😉
You should make it have some intimidating auto voice and flash everything red when it fails. "UNAUTHORIZED USER DETECTED. VACATE IMMEDIATELY"
I'd totally do it if I won the lottery thought (as in someone would do it and try to guess what I want 🤣 )
What's stopping me is really : idec tractor controls company would be like Ok 5000$ order minimum to make laser-etched tractor buttons.
- my project require a farming simulator mod
Farming Sims…! I never even thought to test JoystickXL with them - going to have to add that to the list.
I thought about that but - funny enough - I have always had a terrible time with fingerprint scanners recognizing mine. And since my gaming time is typically early in the morning when the kids are still asleep…let’s just say it’s not worth the risk.
Heh, yeah. Would be fun to have a switch for specifically to mess with people but that's work
Why not laser etch your own tractor buttons?
Because I have no idea how that work and it would probably end up with 80 peoples wounded because of my clumsiness and damage to buildings around
I have a tractor (which I use to maintain the driveway, clear snow, misc. jobs in the woods) and every time I use it I think of it as a badly designed video game, with controls far more complex than needed. There are around thirteen different controls involved with just controlling it driving over good ground.
The main difference is that switchs are required in my case and a key switch
key switch to start the engine like in a tractor 😄
blue if possible because I'm using new holland sidewinder as inspiration
Finding a blue keyswitch for a reasonable price is probably fairly straightforward. Finding a specific blue keyswitch is a whole 'nother can of worms.
key switch of decent quality seems to start at 20ish$
These go on sale periodically for US$3-4 apiece https://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G25165
I bought some as replacement units (and keys) for some REO/PMS lasers
I already think that of an actual simulator, it's too realistic to my taste
like if you need seed you actually have to get a bag, pour it correctly, or get an elevator to put it on a truck, take it out open it on the right side, some will pill so you'll need a siloking or an excavator with a bucket to get it back etc
It's even worse with forestry so I use a lot of autoload
- they added a precision farming DLC so you actually have to sample your soil and get stuff like surefire to put ther correct amount of fertilizer/lime at the correct place to control ph/nitrogen
That sounds more like job training than recreation
3rd PCB I have ever designed, it is a CH314a-based SPI/I2C EEPROM programmer with UART support.
That's a really good-looking board!
Driving a solder iron today.
@wary atlas I should post that here
(first protoype)
3D printed (flex) box
still needs some work to make the "labels" look good 😛
Ohhh, nice
has a night mode with a single red/orange low brightness LED indicating the youtbe/VLC mode
it sends keyboard shortcuts over bluetooth to the computer
and has an on-off switch
Nice. So you still need to have the window in focus, right?
yep
Night mode is something I really like! That's pretty great!
does your pc run a 'bluetooth listener' program in the background?
it's just normal bluetooth HID
Ah nice! (ugh I need to learn how to write programs for that) Woo motivation to program more sensors! 😄
it's running Arduino, because I'm using a M0 bluefruit feather (though I did make a CP version) it's basically mashing together the demo code for Adafruit_BLE and Adafruit_NeoTrellis.
lol, mash
This is--very much--an assemble-the-legos project (so far) but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
I've got a Treat & Train from PetSafe which takes 4 D-cell batteries. The D-cells last us ~3 months and I use D-cells for, quite literally, nothing else. The treat and train was a hand-me-down and the previous owner had planned to set it up with a wall-wart to avoid the conveyor-belt of batteries. Using their plans as inspiration I decided to turn it into a USB-rechargeable.
I justified it by:
- alkaline D-cells are last 4 months and aren't inexpensive
- 4 Rechargeable NiMH D-Cells are $20 and a charger is another $20
I started with verifying it will work with 5V instead of 6V by sacrificing a mini-USB cable and then i went and got a PowerBoost 1000 [1], a 6600 mAh battery [2], and (for good measure) a 5.2V micro usb wall wart [3]. The total came to $51 (I think) for those components, I justified that with "if i ever get rid of it i can harvest them all and turn other stuff into USB-recharables.
Janky photos for completeness attached
[1] https://www.adafruit.com/product/2465
[2] https://www.adafruit.com/product/353
[3] https://www.adafruit.com/product/1995
A photo of the Treat & Train in its natural habitat
Batteries being investigated by the dog
as an aside, enabling the discord threads thing for #show-and-tell would be kinda nice
Out of the prototype stage. Now I just need to clean up the code a bit.
16S 30A LifePo4 pack with a puffy cell that I want to rebuild as a 11S battery pack for my E-bike.
Little nervous, any advice?
I would not under ANY circumstances have that inside my house. Extreme fire danger.
Better than lithium primaries, but not by much lol 😂
Only use it on a barge in front of these because they have like 200000 liters of fire extinguishing goodness
3rd ever PCB design, first with SMD. Improved on the cheap CH314a SPI/I2C programmers. Not sure if anything should be changed.
https://betterspigotdocs.blazify.rocks/ Since I personally hate Javadocs for spigot, I decided to create my own. Be warned that this early stages on heavily rely on contributors :) https://github.com/BlazifyOrg/BetterSpigotDocs
Personally, I wouldn't touch it. If one cell is bad, who knows what the other cells are like. And fiddling with batteries is a good way to start a fire.
And in the case of an e-bike, that'd be a fire you're riding.
which sounds awesome when you say it like that, but...
erm, what does that have to do with electronics ?
or did you post on the wrong discord ?
I'm sure admincraft would be more interested
Pretty sure it’s not required to be related to electronics by say, but I am moving it to my own servers tonight, so I’ll post those too
Not sure tho
This #show-and-tell channel isn't required to be electronics (just as the weekly Show and Tell show isn't). It can be anything that you've made and want to show and, well, tell about
I see, thank for the clarification
Ooh! In that case! I made my custom sneaker skates finally!
Bought the vans and wanted to make skates then my partner bought me the plates and gift cerfiticates for the trucks, wheels, laces, etc
I rented sneaker skates in Bushnell Park (Hartford CT) around 1979. ;)
Those are awesome
I would worry about my ankles, though, if I were to wear them.
Same
My normal skates are jam skates which already have a lot less ankle support (for dancing) - I also do a circus apparatus that requires strong ankles - but yeah - these are for casual skating only!
@median spoke It arrived in the mail this weekend. Thank you so much!!!! I was expecting a sticker, not this awesome little PCB. You rock.
Glad you got it! The github repo has sample code to use it: https://github.com/gamblor21/SnT-Badge
I also made my first pcb design recently, very basic though, just a cable breakout board
I just posted a new video to the NZPRG YouTube Channel, showing my KR01 robot testing out a "roam" behaviour:
** Testing the Roam Behaviour on the KR01**
https://youtu.be/65TagAqW0PM
This is a test of a new "Roam" Behaviour on the KR01 robot, a discrete behaviour in a Behaviour-Based System. This uses a Subsumption Architecture implemented in Python, as part of the "kros-core" operating system.
The Roam Behaviour begins by waiting for three seconds and then setting the forward target velocity of the robot to SLOW. The robo...
Hi, wanted to share my raspberry pi based handheld mutantC v4. >> https://mutantc.gitlab.io/index.html
Here is a review video
https://youtu.be/BESuyftW3oY
Order any size color of PCB from PCBway starting from $5: https://pcbway.com/
Support this project: https://www.paypal.me/rahmanshaber
Build guide :
https://www.instructables.com/MutantC-V4-Modular-Feature-rich-Easy-to-Build-Hanh/
https://mutantc.gitlab.io/mutantC_V4.html
https://discord.gg/RbYJhYjH3Z
https://mutantc.gitlab.io/
https://git...
ohh forgot to share the features of mutantC
-It is fully open-source hardware. So you can Hack it as you wish.
- 4 inch IPS display, upto 4GB RAM, 2 HDMI out.
-Has native Serial and Ethernet port for server work.
-56 key customizable keyboard, 2 shoulder button for navigation.
-Have RTC, Buzzer, Vibration, LDR and IR Transmitter.
-Control your home appliances using mutant's IR Transmitter.
-Auto turn off Display when Display is covered, like when mutanC is on your pocket.
-Add Add-ons to get more features & functionality, see all from HERE.
-ThumbStick to have mouse support with left, right buttons.
-Gyro support using MPU6050 module or Pressure or Temp and Humidity support using BME280 module.
-Able to poweroff modules, Display, Add-ons using keyboard button.
-Full poweroff using OS and keyboard key.
-USB_C formfactor Nurolink/docking port with UART, I2C and Power.
-Read battery Power level and poweroff the device when battery is low.
-2 NeoPixel, one connected to ESP32-S2 and another connected Pi.
-18650 battery with charge and discharge protection .
-So little parts needed to make one. See the parts list > https://gitlab.com/mutantC/mutantc-v4/-/blob/master/parts_list
-You can use C Suite Application suite made for touch based device in this. This apps are suitable for small screens. See the C Suite > https://cubocore.org/
And here is the build guide if anyone wants to build it
https://www.instructables.com/MutantC-V4-Modular-Feature-rich-Easy-to-Build-Hanh/
MutantC V4 - Easy to Build, Modular Handheld PC: A small Handheld PC with a physical 56 key keyboard, 4inch Display and Expansion header for add-on boards (Like Arduino Shield). Here we will discusses what you need to build one and show step by step guide. This device is very easy to make,…
fyi threads are now enabled for this channel. Please use them to discuss the projects
A button box made using the Adafruit M4 express micro controller.
I wanted extra buttons but mostly axis's while playing flight sims for easy use so decided to make this.
It uses a modified adafruit Gamepad circuitpython code to turn the M4 into a game controller allowing me to use them in game.
I also modified the HID settings for the m4 to allow me to use 6 axis's. Didn't need to do anything for the buttons as the default already allows for 16 buttons and Im only using 11.
The 2 safety buttons are only on for 4 clock cycles with an 0.05 second delay per frame. Ones your turn them off they give off the same button signal as I use them to turn on and off the engine of my plane which you do with the same button. The other is eject.
Many thanks again Amateur, danh and Neradoc for the help figuring out how to get the M4 to run the modified HID settings and some other small bugs that followed.
12x12in 3d printed map of one of my favorite games, going to go into a shadowbox behind glass, over 100hrs of printing at 0.07mm layer height
Currently working on filling the layer lines with filler and the cracks between the sections too, the bottom left is smoothed the bottom right is not for comparison
Hay @solemn tulip & @lusty siren Thanks, but I found out that I was wrong, the cell isn't bad they're okay. Though, I am still looking into getting a charge bag/box big enough to put the entire thing into, for both charging & use in general.
I'd say a puffy battery definitely isn't okay and still wouldn't touch it with a barge pole.
Some sort of safety bag is a good idea, though, if you intend on using it anyway.
Na, I thought it wasn't puffy when I was initially looking at it, but a few days later when i got the housing completely off & fully inspect the cell correctly, it was just the side only looked like it was puffy. I first looked at it when I had only opened one corner, & couldn't properly inspect & feel & put a ruler against it. It's flat as board.
I agree. A puffy battery is just one step away from exploding. I wouldn't have that in my house at all. This is what happens when a LiPo flares out inside a heavy leather bag: http://geology.heroy.smu.edu/dpa-www/robo/nbot/fire/nbot_fire_01.jpg
Out in the air it would have likely been much worse.
Looking at the pictures, yeah, I can see the casing could make it look puffy.
I'd check each cell to be sure, though, and make sure there's no puff.
O' ya, I did.
I did my first photo run with a polar aligned astrophotography rig consisting of RPi4, adafruit stepper hat, nema17 with 100:1 planetary gear and ball head.
Oh, that code is for the other rig. Just need to change the time.sleep() to .270. bad pic
results of last nights run
Primitive but fun. 🙂
I’ve been working diligently on a new product release and there are finally some available on my tindie shop. A super cool ESP32-S2 based RGB matrix display with Stemma connector: https://www.tindie.com/products/oakdevtech/pixelwing-esp32-s2-rgb-matrix/
I combined my pi bluetooth music visualizers with a nest hub. I can cast to the hub from my phone/laptop. The hub is paired to the pi and the pi is a bluetooth speaker. I customized alsa with 2 loopbacks, 1 for monitor/VT220 and then i used cava for the visualizer with 2 config files, one for each loopback. its a PI 4 8GB, VT220 and Nest Hub
https://youtu.be/bZ0xmHd2Vn0
software used:
https://github.com/lukasjapan/bt-speaker
https://github.com/karlstav/cava
PI 4 8GB, VT220, Nest Hub
I setup https://github.com/lukasjapan/bt-speaker
I customized alsa with 2 loopbacks, 1 for monitor/VT220 and then i used cava for the visualizer with 2 config files, one for each loopback.
https://github.com/karlstav/cava
A simple Bluetooth Speaker Daemon for the Raspberry Pi 3 - GitHub - lukasjapan/bt-speaker: A simple Bluetooth Speaker Daemon for the Raspberry Pi 3
Finally got the Stage game library to work on Meowbit
Just finished a new Riskeyboard 70 for myself 😁 https://gfycat.com/firsthanduniformeasteuropeanshepherd
Beautiful
That's lovely! The scrolling would destroy my focus though 😄
You don't even notice it after the first 10 minutes 😄
Though the plan is to not have it scroll all the time. That's just what I've got it doing for now until I get the firmware in order
Do you have ADHD? 😉
Here's "the plan":
- Make it display what layer you're on (e.g. when pressing the "Fun" and "More Fun" keys).
- Make it display the current mode, brightness, etc when changing settings.
- Make it application/context-aware so it can display relevant information from your computer. I plan to make it work with HID-IO so it can display stuff like gaming HUD info, active GIMP layer, Blender mode, a clock, that your doorbell is ringing, etc etc
No, but I do have ADD 😄
Fair enough. Then you at least partially get why I would definitely still notice it after 10 minutes. 😄
This all sounds pretty neat though.
Kind of like what the Mac touchbar wanted to be.
Well this display is just a display. It doesn't do touch. I have a separate (secret) project for a touch-based thing 😄
I was referring to it displaying relevant info.
It never really caught on, but your info sounds better than a lot of what the touchbar displays.
Rumor has it, they're ditching it. We'll see soon enough.
I think if you had more control over what it did, it might have caught on more. At least for some folks, the type of folks who like to configure things.
But that's my thoughts.
Yeah that's going to be the BIG difference between the Mac touchbar and this: This will be truly open source and it'll have an open standard way to interface with the keyboard (HID-IO). It also won't be the only keyboard to implement it 👍
Exactly! Much better plan, imo.
Yeah, you want people to use your cool new tech in all their applications? Make it open source! Stabilize the API to use it and invite other manufacturers to participate.
Today in the lab
yay for programmable glowing mushrooms
I finally played around with Circuit Python, I've mainly been exclusively Arduino. Also put together this test hardware and combined/modified some example scripts. This is exciting stuff and I love how fast it is to update code with Circuit Python!
Me too! That's the great thing about CP
https://www.instructables.com/Make-Your-Own-EDITH-Glasses/
My first major Python project
Project Tim Allen (MORE POWER) update 😀
I figured out, why try just charging the stock 36V 7.8Ah LiPo battery on my Swagtron EB-5 E-bike when I can just install the 2nd battery & just choose which battery to power my Ebike. :-)
That & I was finally able to find a DC - DC step down that can handle this much power.
The blue pack above is a 48V 20 or 30 Ah LifePo4.
So I'm hoping to either, triple or quadruple my bikes range. 😀 😀😍🤩
That is after I figure out how securely encase & mount that big (16kg) 35lb beast on my little e-bike. 😳
Lol, mind you the entire stock bike only weights 37lds.
This is the story of how I used TinyML/machine learning to help calm my dog's seperation anxiety. Let's see if we can get Clairette to stop barking!
Intro 0:00
How it Works 0:24
Testing It Out 1:12
I used the Adafruit Music Maker Feather to play audio messages back at my dog
I'm working on creating a cyberdeck with a Blackberry BB Q10 keyboard. With that tiny a keyboard, naturally I wanted a tiny LCD as well. I chose what I had, an ST7735R 128×160 TFT LCD.
The LCD works fine with some older kernel(5.10.17+), though newer ones cause it to fail. I pinned the kernel and bootloader version to what worked with sudo apt-mark hold raspberrypi-bootloader raspberrypi-kernel (thanks to @sacred timber ) and then let other stuff of the os update and upgrade. This worked, though now getting the kernel headers (needed for driver development of the keyboard) via sudo apt-get install raspberrypi-kernel-headers didn't work because they point to a newer version of the headers and not the one of my kernel. So I installed 'rpi-source' , which gave me the correct headers for my kernel. Now the drivers build and I can insert them in the kernel as needed (as seen in image for BMP280 i2c device).
Once I get my hands on the BB Q10 board, I'll get to work on the driver for it. Hope it works out :)
Digital Etch-A-Sketch case is coming along, first iteration is being printed now.
very nice @sharp comet
everything fits nicely 🎉
thats cool
Do you have a tutorial or something?
not yet, but all of it will be open sourced once finished. Possibly I'll publish a guide or more detailed tutorial as well
Awesome!
Gonna go on show and tell soon to show the latest iteration of my desk. It involves pi 4 8gb running pi os, pi 4 4gb running home assistant, vt220, nest hub, smartwatch and phone. It does some interesting things like music mode. I got a couple more things I'm working on before I'll be ready to demo it.
The home assistant is what allows me to control the desk from my phone or watch or voice commands.
For the VT220, I'd definitely go with the light characters on a dark background for just text. If you used the VT220's features to make the individual characters have different backgrounds, you might be able to get a better effect on the first one (well, probably on the second as well, come to think of it).
Hmmm I will check that background thing out to see if I can create more contrast
definitively the 2nd one
some progress with the programmable mushrooms 🙂
still have to figure out a good program for them, i'm thinking a 2D thing using their X/Y position to animate wave patterns through them, but possibly need more mushrooms for that to be really effective.
(made from a neopixel strand and a trinket)
todo: make the stems also light up, and diffuse the light more away from the LEDs
Those are good looking mushrooms, what are you using for the mushrooms themselves?
thanks! i cast them in the transparent silicone rubber 2 part epoxy stuff (cant remember its actual name but usually it's used for making moulds for casting things)
They came out really nice
i've been fairly amazed at how well they light up, this neopixel strand works really well i think because the leds seem to have quite a wide angle on them
but of course i have to cut and solder each individual led out of the strand
Small effort. Huge psychological impact. Hehe.
It’s now generating random periods of sleep so the beeping comes on with g forces at unpredictable intervals
But I have to still do the math for I Kissed a Girl in kilohertz.
I took it for a (literal) test drive and it was the worst. It’s gonna be an amazing prank.
Oh boy do I have a story for a #sparky, Over the summer I added probably a total of at least 64 feet of neopixels to my room about half of which is shown in this photo
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/810950401653735484/885210211541979196/IMG_4364.JPG
One day we had some bad storms and some power surges which somehow lead to one of my 5v power supplies and about 32' of my neopixels to be completely dead so now once they arrive I have the fun of rewiring half my room's lights 
I'm working on a Macros library using classes as a kind of markup to mix different type of actions in a macro, to make richer macros without having to write a bunch of code, with the goal to make it generic enough to have it run (via small "driver" classes) on a Macropad, Keybow, Orthosnap, Neokeys, generic keypad module support, etc.
But first I made a version of the Macropad hotkeys application that uses the same principle:
https://github.com/Neradoc/Circuitpython_Hotkeys_Plus
@scenic siren you did express interest about it in the weekly meeting if you want to take a look ☝️
I saw you post it earlier, and I opened it up, but I'll be honest, my brain is apparently pretty fried this week, and it looked entirely too complicated for me to parse it right now. 😄 For what it's worth, PhilB (PaintYourDragon) who did the HotKeys project is in the middle of trying to make it work with consumercontrol at my request, and perhaps your solution is better. I haven't looked at his yet either for the same reason I'm not looking into yours right now though.
When I have a little time, I might ping you and have you walk me through the changes you made. But I can't brain it right now.
👍
My Tiny Cyberdeck project is coming along well on all fronts. Hopefully the Blackberry Q10 Keyboard will arrive before this weekend, and then I can get to writing a driver for it. I'm hoping this is how it looks. Keyboard and screen hinged together, powered by a raspberry pi zero w from below. For now, I'm happy with the thickness, it's around 3 cm in total, but without a battery as of yet. I have a chunky 6600 mAh battery but without any management. I'll look in to that later, maybe next iteration where I have a 'flatter' battery to put in its own 3d cage for a lower profile.
There's actually already a compatible driver for both Arduino and Circuit Python I've been using. The driver libraries for the solder party bbq10 driver board also works with the LTTGO Driver board. Heres the Arduino Library: https://github.com/arturo182/arduino_bbq10kbd
And heres the Circuit Python Library https://github.com/arturo182/arturo182_CircuitPython_BBQ10Keyboard
I think the Pi Zero has Circuit Python support, not sure, but you could interface with it via I2C.
Keep in mind the driver board runs on 3.3v, while the Pi would run on 5v I think.
What cad software did you use to design that?
Thanks for the link.
Luckily, Arturo182 and I are both from Sweden, and he's been gracious enough to send me a keyboard, hence my design of it is based on his step files.
I want to write a kernel driver for it. I do not wish to compile the kernel, just insert it when everything is done, similar to how fbtft devices enters late in to kernel space, but with insmod and cron (hence my need to have kernel headers from my previous post.)
I've looked in to their documentation, and I'll definitely be trying out some arduino connected keyboard for the same LCD. However, the end goal is to write kernel driver for the keyboard and use it to create custom linux images using yocto, buildroot, and elbe.
There is a tutorial on linux man page for a single button keyboard, and there is another driver for i2c based keyboard using Analog Devices' ADP5588. I'll be using those two for my driver instead.
fusion 360.
I'm not going to print the previous one.
- It has too many parts to it, too much to go wrong plus the hinge will fail sooner or later. This one has only two parts, complex parts, but not many weak spots.
- It's very thick and keyboard in middle with pi below, it wasn't to my taste. This one is is half a cm thinner even at its widest point.
- This one's got camera, last one I couldn't put the camera anywhere to my liking with my constraints.
Complex parts are good for 3D printing: injection molding that would be a beast.
You're very right. Injection moulding on hobby scale is just too hard to get in to.
Well, it's honestly not as bad as you may imagine. You may be constricted by shot size or material options, but there's a pretty affordable DIY injection molding machine for $200~400, if you plan on selling stuff.
This is "Waveforms" by McKeegan Curran-Seijo on Vimeo, the home for high quality videos and the people who love them.
My recent project rewiring a CRT TV to my stereo making a crude music visualizer. I ordered a second one of these TV's off ebay that I'm going to turn into a portable bluetooth speaker
Some nice tasty spaghetti wiring
I made a library for talking with inaturalist for circuitpython. In this example, is cycling the observations and the images for a particular user (my brother).
https://github.com/fede2cr/cpyinaturalist/raw/main/doc/imgs/funhouse.jpg
A proof of concept for an idea that I hacked together last night (sorry the video quality is not super great). When the rotary is turned on the MacroPad (running CircuitPython), it sends a packet (UART) over the Stemma port to a Feather M4 running Arduino, which then broadcasts that packet using a Radio FeatherWing. Then I have 2 "receivers", on the left (another Feather M4 running Arduino, and a Feather RP2040 running CircuitPython). that receive the signal and display the updated value on the connected OLEDs. I thought that it would take me all weekend to get this going, but it only took me about 3-4 hours thanks to the Feather/Featherwing ecosystem, which is flipping amazing!
Wow nice!
PC-9821 replica for Raspberry Pi CM4.
Obviously not very accurate because I didnt want to limit myself
Anywho, has space for two SSDs, DVD drive, CM4 carrier board, Pico PSU, and at least one PCIE card
I'm really excited to design more cases/devices like this
Please, tell me any suggestions,cc, etc. And especially suggestions for what I should try next, I'd love ideas for practicing.
A lot of 3D printing and some fun with left over Adabox parts == my new “task lamp”
fancy!
now im trying to figure out if the speed of the animation is my bad coding or just how it be on Circuitpython
but i've reached the initial milestone of this project 🙂
@danh for the help, and others. 🙏
LAPA Studios Papercraft pdf,
TrinketM0,
Lots of solid core wires and jumpers, soldering and harnessing,
Colored tactile switches in the fingers: R, G, B,
Resistors in the tactile switch harness,
AdaFruit 5W LEDs one per ear,
Small Li-Ion battery included in the Adafruit NeoPixel Goggles pack,
Lots of time
@tender ploverwow
Is that based off of any particular model? It doesn't match any 9821 I've actually seen.
It's the first one on google images but with the second floppy drive removed and the DVD drive enlarged to a full 5.25 slot
It doesn't look like it because im lazy and carving holes for IO is hard
Making one of those memory DIMM holders but this one can support large heatsinks such as DDR2 FBDIMM, RDIMM and those Corsair Vengeance series heatsinks.
Today in the lab:
Today in the lab:
Ohhhh
dude takin his own xrays again
playing around with making an ESP32-S2 mini feather
First SMD solder 
very nice, especially for first time!
did you use paste and stencil or just the syringe?
Just the syringe
Some areas have either too little or too much, think attempt number 2 will go better.
And abit more flux next time
Honestly, it looks like you put a really good amount in the places where it matters most. I don't see much issue with quantity, as the only parts that look bulbous are on the resistor and capacitor pads.
Jay not terrible, excited to try it out soon™ Already excited to work on V2 and not even sure if this one works yet 
Raspberry Pi 400 with Pimeroni Hyperpixel4 and Adafruit cyber deck wrapped in PLA, with travel cover.
Would anyone be interested in these? Pre-printed for a fee, or STLs ready to print?
Back is affixed with four M2 screws. Screw hole threads are included in the print.
Cover is friction fit.
demon core badgelife SAO going off to shenzhen tonight
not found?
Made a little macropad out of the directional switch encoder that was put up on the store recently.
PicoPi CloudLight! As a kid I always had little kitschy trinkets that were special to me and wanted to display, so I made this for my niece so she can have a little display for her treasured items
The felted Lars is nightmare fodder.
I unpublished for a little bit while I fixed an error. It's good now.
nice
I really upped my silkscreen game on the latest Riskeyboard 70 prototype 😉 👍
The front has lots of tiny easter eggs as well 😄
Ohhh that’s nice
holy, dang that's awesome
I feel like I've seen the kicad screenshots for this before on another server lol, so cool
No, I've merely invaded your dreams 👍
ah ha there we go, a fellow money-burner keyboard enthusiast, eh?
Out of curiosity: what's the IR sensor for?
And do you plan on sharing an STL for your signature maglev switches somewhere down the line, or just straight-up mass production?
My Riskeyboard lets you turn any old remote control into a wireless macro pad! https://gfycat.com/marriedtediousaquaticleech
Oh I'll share them... Once I have PCBs for sale 😄
Can't wait! Gotta save up some burnable income...
There will also be a license like, "If you make a keyboard with these you owe me a dollar or $0.10 whatever is greater but we can negotiate 👍"
? wait what lol, I was commenting on the buzzer footprint
Who knows, automated filters be like that sometimes.
Yeah the naughty word filter has lots of words that aren't actually that naughty hehe
but yes I want all the beeps and boops on the keyboard 👀
The buzzer has yet to be used. I have some ideas as to how to use it but it's more of a future thing
Obviously you can use it to generate click and pop sounds but I already have something better for that... https://youtu.be/6hMOGKTudcg
Keyboard: Custom Riskeyboard 70 analog hall effect with custom 3D printed magnetic separation switches (Void Switches), custom 3D printed magnetically-stabilized stabilizers, custom 3D printed case and top plate, custom 3D printed keycaps (made using my Keycap Playground), custom PCB (from scratch), custom firmware (written in Rust from scratch)...
Holy cow that video went over 1000 views‽
When did that happen? Last I looked it was like... 80 views haha
clicks analytics button
sounds like a tiny solenoid almost 😄
It was the repeated letters... It's meant to catch spammers, not folks excited about buzzers. But it's not smart enough to know the difference.
ah, gotcha 👍
Ahh, it was the Lemurs that put my video over the top
Thanks
Was really happy by the results of this project result:
(it's the spider dance btw)
Taped up prototype for a thermometer/hygrometer/barometer housing. I plan on mounting the BME breakout sensor board in the center of the air column of the main shaft. The goal is to get as accurate as possible of a reading for ambient air temperature.
And I plan on putting screen over the top and bottom holes to prevent any friends from making a home in there as well as provide a wind break.
I had these oscillators appear on 4 Conway's Game of life kits. A blinker which is the most common oscillator and a larger one I don't know the name of. Does anyone know?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2137976. I spotted a circuit playground on this banana keytar.
Turns out it is a pulsar quadrant.
What's John Conway's Game of Life?
It is a zero player game that simulates cellular automata with very simple rules that lead to a variety of complex patterns.
Adafruit sells a kit that will play this game on a 16 cell array of LEDs. You can connect multiple kits to make larger arrays. I have built 3, a maker friend gave me his, and I have one more kit inbuilt waiting for me to feel well enough to assemble it.
OK. That sounds fun.... I guess
Very interesting
Lot's more about "Conway's Game of Life" at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conway's_Game_of_Life including several great animations. For a true "Life", you need an infinite array. There are, however, edge conditions that do interesting things.
OK
Thank you Adafruit for making this possible
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCmGmLDWalE
Using the RGB Matrix Hat with RTC
I'm making my smartglasses with a web based front end
they are built on bose frames
when i finish it, it'll be able to play spotify from my phone
i just gotta work out the spotify api in my own frontend
i really just need to make a good 3d printed shell
Woah, neat!
This weekend's project was to tinker with mounting an ItsyBitsy nRF52840 onto one of these neat new IS31FL3741 LED matrices and write some scrolling marquee firmware that would allow me to use the BluefruitConnect app to change the message, advertising name, color, brightness, scroll speed, rotation, and font (including a font I made from the Stargate's Ancient language 😂). The female headers currently aren't connected electrically but rather used as a structural support (for example, I made a little "wing" with a magnet so that I can attach it to a fridge or other magnetic surface, and I'm playing with an idea for a "wing" to make it wearable). These matrixes are really cool and fun to play with. I'm really excited to get my hands on the new LED glasses 👀
Oh also of the settings are saved onto the 2MB flash chip, so if it loses power, it starts up again using the same settings that were previously saved.
I decoded the first 3 letters... and I'd like to solve the puzzle 😉
😂
I wanted to make (another) clock with a similar setup but I'm 2 horizontal pixels shy of being able to draw 4 numbers in Ancient 😢 Guess I'll have try using 2 side by side 🤷♂️
Hacked apart the buffered text demo for the IS31FL3741 to use 2 matrices side by side, taking advantage of the QT Py RP2040's 2 I2C ports so I didn't have to cut/solder jumpers on the second display
Tiny tricorder next to 1/2 breadboard for size ref. ESP8266 ssd1306, BME280, MLX90614,
There's a Raspberry Pi Pico underneath the OLED screen, still messing around to see what Python can do for keyboards. Recently got an ender 3 so I printed the rotary encoder knob myself to be as low profile as I could.
I've been trying to make this board for a while. It's a replacement for the zumo shield used on Polly's zumo robot. It has a lot of issues for rev 1, the soldering job is a mess, i couldn't find all resistors so I had to use larger packages and even use two in parallel to get closer to the resistor value I needed, the uploader is a really old tiva c board itself.
BUT, after a really hard week of two failed attempts, this one worked, LEDs work, UART works, I'll be testing i2c and spi next, then the motors.
Finally achieved my days-long dream of a clock using the ancients font as the clockface with 2 IS31FL3741 LED matrices 😂
Also on the off chance anyone is interested I published the Arduino source code https://github.com/apendley/IS31FL3741QT-ancients-clock
Here's a blackberry keyboard dock thing I'm designing for the Clue! This is an early prototype, I should have it done by next week though. I plan to make a guide and maybe a video tutorial. It's exciting stuff!
and yes, I'll make it magnetic lol
blackberry keyboard is the best one of all time
I never used one until I needed one for a sat-phone project I was building. It was slow to get used to at first but I really enjoy typing on it now! I see why so many people loved typing with it.
I'm intreagued by bringing back of Blackberry keyb
Maybe I should or someone should design a bluetooth snap-on case for modern phones lol
I just wondered that, lol
blackberry 8830. i still have it, and yeah its amazing
i miss it 😦 i have moto g power now
I mean, I like the mechanical keybs I use for my phones, but for super portability. A Blackberry one, especially with BT 5.1 should be popular
It's defiantly possible... I just ordered the bluetooth glasses driver board today so once I get it in the mail, I'll have to give it a shot lol
That's pretty cool! I created something similar here: https://www.instructables.com/Make-Your-Own-EDITH-Glasses/
Whose, mine or @white thicket 's?
edith glasses
do you see hologram and such with it?
Yeah, I'm adding that. A screen projects images through a Fresnel lens onto the glasses' lenses
interesting
Thats awesome
Thanks
Spent the weekend working on my "Blood Board", a variation of the awesome OozeMaster 3000. This was super fun to build 😄
Looking good! I wish I had the determination to make my own keyboard
it gets simple after the fifth or sixth
If only choc switches had more options in term of aesthetic keycaps...
I really like the "purple switches on the purple pcb" look though.
there are MBK keycaps coming out
if you don't want legends, there is a whole rainbow of them
with legends there are two grays, orange and black
and white
I have seen those, and I have considered them, but I'm not even fully capable of touch-typing, so I'm kinda waiting for legended sets atm
(and money)
legends should ship by the end of the year
Eurorack synth wip - prototyping a new module:
hmm... can I post a link to a full size photo?
https://ny3oaw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4pJUEtg5vhuDfKOWIG46ML1CS_mLYQRHeooZYoBsvCkjkXR_Jf4mlB6kb_9BSoebC5GK__V7Wy-RTZTGvsDs3huWsHIOzBYbxFt8O7DaqNrfDXRaLAYa_cMfbpzFZkmQtNqvzbjq3lTaj6-_dmEo1ufeG5tXLu7-FxV_rAUGOJuXlnC-IvE4pBvf_adVj5os9HvBDhj3coTyLhEGKbq-oguw/004.JPG?psid=1
Yes, that's better.
In case anyone wants to figure out what kind of module it is. 🙂
Just got my glasses last night 👀
I got the Glasses driver board yesterday and am in the process of making a smartwatch. I hacked the button (pin 4) so it can drive the NeoPixels. The neopixel ring emulates the hands on a clock (red is hour, blue is minute). It also updates/sets the time from BLE which is neat. I'm in the process of designing a case for it.
This is the code I have running, I just updated the code from the last watch I made from a year ago to work with this hardware. https://github.com/MichaelLacock/ML-Watch/blob/master/ML-Watch_OS_v0.3.1-v4.ino
Nice!
👀